FOOTWEAR

MACHINERY
PART II

Shirshendu Ghosh
Lecturer
Central Footwear Training Centre, Budge
Budge
Govt. of West Bengal
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Index

Sl No Machine Name Page

i Fore Part or Toe Lasting 3-4
Machine
ii Seat or Counter Lasting 5-6
Machine
iii Sole attaching Machine 7-8
iv Counter Moulding machine 9-10
v PU Pouring Machine 11-12
vi Unlasting Machine 13-14

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Fore Part or Toe Lasting Machine

Fore part lasting machine is an important machine in Lasting Section in Quality shoe
production house. Lasting machine improve the quality of lasting operation and
reduce the time. So mass production it is an essential machine.

The following parts of Toe lasting machines are given below..

1 Treadle: It is the controlling device of the operator. Upto gripping of toe pincer
the operator can forward and backward the forepart lasting operation by treadle.
There are different steps in treadle. A skilled operator can control the treadle
operation very well.

Fig: Fore Part or Toe Lasting Machine

2. Insole rest: After attaching insole and putting upper on the last, the last is
placed on the insole rest before starting the treadle operation. The size of the Insole

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rest is different for different series (Like Children, Boys, Girls, and Gents) and
shaped last.

3. Pincers: There are normally 7 pincers and 9 pincers machine are available in the
Indian market. The numbers of pincers should be odd digit because in every
machine there should be one toe pincer and rest pincers are divided into two equal
group and arrange in both inside and outside of toe last. After starting treadle
operation toe pincer grip the toe portion of the upper and pulled it over the last. If
the operator sees the position of the toe gripping is right then he continues the
operation. Then other pincers grip the total fore part upper and pulled it over the
fore part of the last. The sizes of the pincers are different for different series (Like
Children, Boys, Girls, and Gents) and shaped last.

4. Toe hold down: After pulling the upper over the last by pincers toe hold down fix
the last position so that the last cannot move in the upward direction.

5. Applicator: A Holt melt adhesive comes from the applicator in liquid state and
spread over the edge portion of the fore part of the insole. There is some type of
heating arrangement in the nozzle to heat the hot melt adhesive and make it liquid
from solid state.

6. Wiper plate: After adhesives come over the edge portion of the insole, the
pincers just loose the grips and wiper plate wipes the edge portion of the upper over
the edge portion of the insole. And hot melt adhesives again solidify and thus the
edge portion of the upper remains fixed over the edge portion of the insole.

7. Hydraulic device: The automatic machines main operating force comes from
the hydraulic pressure. There is a hydraulic chamber which is filled by Hydraulic oil
of specific density.

8. Safety Switch: It is used for emergency stop of the machine to prevent accident
or and damages of the upper or machine. It is generally mentioned by red colour.

9. Control Panel: Pressure, time of operation temp of application can be controlled

by digital or analog control panel.

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Seat or Counter Lasting Machine

Seat lasting machine is an important machine in Lasting Section in Quality shoe
production house. Lasting machine improve the quality of lasting operation and
reduce the time. So mass production it is an essential machine.

The following parts of Seat lasting machines are given below..

1 Treadle/Hand Clutch: It is the controlling device of the operator. Upto gripping

of seat pincer the operator can forward and backward the toe lasting operation by
treadle. There are different steps in treadle. A skilled operator can control the
treadle operation very well.

Fig: Seat or Counter Lasting Machine

2. Last rest: After fore part lasting operation, the last is placed on the last rest
before starting the treadle operation. The size of the last rest is different for
different series (Like Children, Boys, Girls, and Gents) and shaped last.

3. Pincers: There are normally 7 pincers and 5 pincers machine are available in the
Indian market. The numbers of pincers should be odd digit because in every
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machine there should be one seat pincer and rest pincers are divided into two equal
group and arrange in both inside and outside of seat portion of last. After starting
treadle operation toe pincer grip the seat portion of the upper and pulled it over the
last. If the operator sees the position of the seat gripping is right then he continues
the operation. Then other pincers grip the total seat portion of upper and pulled it
over the fore part of the last. The sizes of the pincers are different for different
series (Like Children, Boys, Girls, and Gents) and shaped last.

4. Seat hold down: After pulling the upper over the last by pincers Seat hold down
fix the last position so that the last cannot move in the upward direction.

5. Applicator: A Holt melt adhesive comes from the applicator in liquid state and
spread over the edge portion of the seat part of the insole. There is some type of
heating arrangement in the nozzle to heat the hot melt adhesive and make it liquid
from solid state.

6. Wiper plate: After adhesives come over the edge portion of the insole, the
pincers just loose the grips and wiper plate wipes the edge portion of the upper over
the edge portion of the insole. And hot melt adhesives again solidify and thus the
edge portion of the upper remains fixed over the edge portion of the insole.

** In some machine seat lasting operations is done by tacking. Tacks come from the
tack chamber through a pipe and wiping operation tacks are attached at the edge
portion of seat area by tack hamer.

7. Hydraulic device: The automatic machines main operating force comes from
the hydraulic pressure. There is a hydraulic chamber which is filled by Hydraulic oil
of specific density.

** In tack seat lasting operation hydraulic device is replaced by pneumatic pressure

device. A compressor is attached with this machine. And Air pressure comes from it.

8. Safety Switch: It is used for emergency stop of the machine to prevent accident
or and damages of the upper or machine. It is generally mentioned by red colour.

9. Control Panel: Pressure, time of operation temp of application can be controlled

by digital or analog control panel.

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Sole attaching Machine

Sole attaching machine is an important machine in Finishing Section in Quality shoe
production house. Sole attaching machine improve the quality of Sole attaching
operation and reduce the time. So mass production it is an essential machine. There
are different types of sole attaching machine available in the market. Some of the
machines operation is controlled by pneumatic pressure and in some case it is
operated by hydraulic pressure.

The following parts of commonly used Sole attaching machines are given
below..

1 Treadle/Hand Clutch: It is the controlling device of the operator. After placing

the shoe on the Sole attaching machine, operator presses the treadle. There are
different steps in treadle. A skilled operator can control the treadle operation very
well.

Fig: Sole Attaching Machine

2. Last rest: After sole attaching manually the shoe with last is kept on air pad
which can be filled by air. There is a bloodier in between the airpad which is
attached with the compressor through a one-way valve. After ending of day-work
the air is removed from the airpad by another valve.

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3. Shoe hold down: After putting the shoe with last on the last rest, the two
moving end of shoe hold down is adjusted by positioning one end at toe area and
one end at comb area. The shoe hold down fix the last position so that the last
cannot move in east or west direction.

4. Pneumatic Device : In Sole attaching machine is operated by pneumatic

pressure device. A compressor is attached with this machine. And Air pressure
comes from it.

8. Safety Switch: It is used for emergency stop of the machine to prevent accident
or and damages of the upper or machine. It is generally mentioned by red colour.

9. Control Panel: Pressure, time of operation temp of application can be controlled

by digital or analog control panel.

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Counter Moulding machine

Counter Moulding machine is an important machine in Lasting Section in Quality
shoe production house. Lasting machine improve the quality of lasting operation
and reduce the time. So mass production it is an essential machine.

The following parts of Toe lasting machines are given below..

1 Hand Clutch: It is the controlling device of the operator. There are different steps
in clutch. A skilled operator can control the clutch operation very well.

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Fig: Counter Moulding machine

2. Hot Mould: After putting upper on the metal last, start the operation of the hot
mould. The screw between the toe and counter part of the hit mould extend, and
the upper grips the hot mould. The Gripping pad of the hot mould grips the counter
after that counter get its proper shape of the last after few second. There are some
heater coils in between the hot mould to increase the temperature of the upper and
thus reduce the processing time.

3. Cold Mould: After putting upper on the cold metal last, start the operation of
the cold mould. The screw between the toe and counter part of the hit mould
extend, and the upper grips the cold mould. The Gripping pad of the cold mould
grips the counter after that counter retain its shape of the last. There are some
cooling arrangement in between the cold mould and thus upper cannot get its
previous shape i.e its shape gets fixed.

4. Hydraulic device: The automatic machines main operating force comes from
the hydraulic pressure. There is a hydraulic chamber which is filled by Hydraulic oil
of specific density.

5. Safety Switch: It is used for emergency stop of the machine to prevent accident
or and damages of the upper or machine. It is generally mentioned by red colour.

6. Control Panel: Pressure, time of operation temp of application can be controlled

by digital or analog control panel.

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PU Pouring Machine
PU pouring is now installed by footwear manufacturing unit to reduce the
manpower, improve sole attachment and increase production. Despite some safety
measure this machine has several advantages over normal cemented lasting
process mechanism.

The following parts of PU pouring machines are given below.

1. Di-isocyanide and Poly-ol Chember: The main two ingredient of pu

pouring machines are separed by thick Glass cylinder so they cannot get
contacted with each other and with the labour. Di-isocyanide is very toxic
chemicals and it causes cancer.

Fig: PU Pouring Machine

2. Mixer: Before pouring nascent PU into the sole mould cavity, both ingredient
are well mixed by this mixer in very short time. There are some cooling
chamber to reduce the temperature of the mixer so that no explosion can
take place.

3. Nozzle: After mixing the ingredients nascent PU is poured into the cavity
through the nozzle.

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4. Sole Mould : There should be some space on the sole mould so that
byproduct water can exit from it.

Unlasting Machine

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Un lasting machine is an important machine in Finishing Section in Quality shoe

production house. UnLasting machine improve the quality of Unlasting operation
and reduce the time. So mass production it is an essential machine.

The following parts of Toe lasting machines are given below..

1. Last rest: Last with shoe is kept on the last rest in downward direction.

Fig: Unlasting Machine

2. Gripper Plate: The gripper plate grips the counter of the last firmly so that
counter portion cannot move in between the operation.

3.Toe bender: Toe bender bend the fore part of the V-Hinge last to reduce the
length of the last. It can be rod or roller type. After bending the toe shoe can be
easily removed. Then operator press the switch and it can again get back its
position.

4. Pressure: The Machine is operated by pneumatic or Hydraulic pressure device,

For neumatic pressure compressor is attached with this machine. In other case
hydraulic chamber is there to exert hydraulic pressure.

9. Timer: In Some Machine auto Timer is there to fix the toe bender initiation time
after starting the operation.

Footwear Machinery, Part II Shirshendu Ghosh