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 fashions from the runway
Emporio Armani

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CONTENTS
Milano Moda Uomo S/S 2012 Mode Paris S/S 2012

04 Alexander McQueen 50 Iceberg 88 Agnes B 136 Yves Saint Laurent

06 Bally 52 Jil Sander 90 Ann Demeulemeester 138 3.1 Philip Lim
07 Giuliano Fujiawara 54 John Richmond 92 Bill Tornade 139 Acne
08 Bottega Veneta 56 John Varvatos 94 Cerruti 140 Adam Kimmel
10 Burberry Prorsum 58 Missoni 96 Comme des Garcons 141 Arnys
12 Calvin Klein 60 Moncler Gamme Bleu 98 Dior Hommes 142 Bernhard Willhelm
14 Canali 62 Moschino 100 Dries Van Noten 143 Christian Lacroix
16 Corneliani 64 Neil Barrett 102 Givenchy 144 Qasimi Homme
18 Costume National Homme 66 Nicole Farhi 104 HenriK Vibskov 145 Raf Simons
20 D&G 68 Ports1961 106 Hermes 146 Rick Owens
24 Daniele Alessandrini 70 Prada 108 Issey Miyake 147 Rynshu
26 Dirk Bikkembergs 72 Pringle of Scotland 110 Jean Paul Gaultier 148 Smalto Homme
28 Dolce & Gabbana 74 Roberto Cavalli 112 John Galliano 149 Thom Browne
30 DSquared2 76 Salvatore Ferragamo 114 Junya Watanabe 150 Damir Doma
32 Emporio Armani 78 Siviglia 116 Juun J 151 Ehud
34 Enrico Coveri 80 Trussardi 118 Kenzo 152 Gustavo Lins
36 Ermanno Scervino 82 Versace 120 Kris Van Assche 153 John Lawrence Sullivan
38 Ermenegildo Zegna 84 Vivienne Westwood 122 Lanvin 154 Petar Petrov
40 Etro 86 Z Zegna 124 Louis Vuitton 155 Roland Mouret
42 Frankie Morello 128 Maison Martin Margiela 156 Steffie Christiaens
44 Gazzarrini 130 Paul Smith 157 Vier5 fashion department
46 Giorgio Armani 132 Victor & Rolf 158 Walter Van Beirendonck
48 Gucci 134 Yohji Yamamoto 159 Wooyougmi

WFM Fashion from the Runway S/S 2012

Alexander McQueen Milan S/S 2012

Set against a darkened-warehouse backdrop, a pulsating, sixties

vibe dominated at Alexander McQueen. The Modish appeal of
black boots, two-toned shoes and bomber jackets, paired with
striking, monochrome checks and standout stripes, succinctly
captured Sarah Burtons English rock inspiration. Tactile elements
were injected with loose-fitting pants and shots of shimmery
Persian red and amber velvet, while fitted trousers, blazers and
dark shades effused retro cool.
Alexander
McQueen
.

4
5
Bally
A vacation mood took hold at Bally, as models on the verge of a
journey posed around a biplane, surrounded by luggage in rust red
and battleship grey. Taking inspiration from the 50s, Hers and Fidler
paired tailored shorts with bulky knits and fine sweaters with fitted,
cropped pants. Slick side parts, loafers and sandals fuelled the
sense of nostalgia, while a stylish freshness was imbued by leather
jackets in Carolina blue.
Bally
Hers
& Fidler50

6
Giuliano Fujiawara
For his latest presentation, creative director Masataka Matsumura
played with contradictions to craft a collection of cool streetwear.
Shimmering, redwood boiler suits were cropped at the ankle and
paired with crisp, white shirts and skinny, black ties, while boxy,
black lab coats and fine, charcoal suits were worn with bowties
and beanies.
Masataka Matsumura

7
Bottega Veneta
Thomas Maier paraded funky, striped shirts under slim-fit suits
in steely-blue plaid and rumpled shades of grey and beige. More
casual elements were introduced with stand-up collars, patch
pockets and hip, monochrome knits, before giving way to tight-fitting
leathers patched with strips of denim. For a burst of colour, cerulean
checks bound the torso and swirling, motley prints fell into fabulous,
straight-cut pants.
Thomas Maier

8
9
Burberry Prorsum
By pairing brilliant graphics with 70s caps in burnt orange and olive
green, Christopher Bailey went on a wild ride far beyond the bounds
of modern traditionalism. Cropped jackets rode up jonquil sweaters,
while leather coats engulfed skinny pants. Attention to detail sent
brilliant mandalas spinning across knitwear, shorts and shirts, and
saw Aztec-like prints whirling across shoe tops.
Christopher Bailey70

10
11
Calvin Klein
Describing his latest collection as American sportswear with a
modern take, creative director Italo Zucchelli played with texture
and proportion to create baggy sweatpants that worked equally well
with both tailored jackets and fitted tanks. Dark denim and sleek,
icy-white suits offered more-streamlined silhouettes, while aureolin
cotton jersey interspersed with shiny shots of taupe and aqua blue
infused subtle streaks of colour.
Italo Zucchelli

12
13
Canali
Models emerging from an ornate archway to the strains of modern
sitar music set the scene for Eastern influences on the Canali runway,
as Indian panache instilled tailored pieces with disarming charm.
Cuffed pants cut from electric blue were teamed with fine-knit, azure
tunics, tailored jackets were worn with moccasins and Nehru collars
graced unbuttoned shirts. Meanwhile, silky, fringed scarves added a
luxe finish.
Canali

14
15
Corneliani
At Corneliani, models traversed a desert landscape in a heady mix of
sartorial splendour and spirited casual attire. While classic suits worn
with ties and lace-ups sported new-wave briefcases and pocket
handkerchiefs, fedoras and tailored pants were paired with zippered
coats, puce sweaters and loose-knit cardigans. Meanwhile, tugging
firmly at the cords of adventure, belted, suede safari jackets took to
the sand with desert boots and snakeskin totes.
Corneliani

16
17
Costume National Homme
Fired by rockabilly, Ennio Capasa created cool images inspired
by the high energy of the early rock and roll era. On the runway,
models with tousled hair paraded a medley of stovepipes, two-
toned shoes, collarless, plaid jackets and edgy, zippered tunics to
the beat of Walk the River by Guillemots. Remaining true to rocks
sombre palette, Capasa worked predominantly with gunmetal grey
and solid black, shot with invigorating ripples of rich carnelian.
Ennio Capasa

GuillemotsWalk the River
Capasa

18
19
D&G
Nonchalant and sexy are two words that best describe D&Gs final
menswear show. Through masterful tailoring, Domenico Dolce and
Stefano Gabbana melded heraldic silks with treated denim to create
a collection that pulsated with sensual energy. Fine, silk panels
draped from heavy waistbands and tough, slashed jeans were
tempered by fluttery, open-necked shirts. Worn loafers and cool
fedoras added instant chic appeal.
DG
Domenico DolceStefano Gabbana

20
21
22
23
Daniele Alessandrini
Far from the restrained look of last season, for Spring/Summer
2012, Daniele Alessandrini created star-spangled ensembles in vivid
orange, dazzling sunglow and shades of brilliant sky blue. Honing
the unconventional vibe, sweaters buttoned at the shoulder and
vibrant, contrasting belts drew attention to waists, while brightly-
laced sneakers reinforced the collections casual air.
Daniele Alessandrini 2012

24
25
Dirk Bikkembergs
This season saw yet another change in direction for Dirk Bikkemberg
as he focussed on swimming for his latest sportswear couture
collection. Sleek one-pieces enveloped by luxurious robes were
accessorized with slippers, racing caps, goggles and draping
towels. Beyond the pool, collarless bombers with zippered fronts
created an edgy appeal, star motifs radiated casual cool and tailored
jackets garnered an air of sophistication.
Dirk Bikkemberg

26
27
Dolce & Gabbana
Amid the classic, dark suits, crisp, white shirts and lean, black ties,
Dolce and Gabbana broke from the polished look to create eclectic
pieces. Mesh sweaters with belted trousers, boiler suits worn over
teal shirts, cropped, hooded jackets and transparent overlays
worked together to instill the collection with a casual air. Meanwhile,
the addition of two-toned lace-ups ensured that refinement was
never far from hand.
Dolce & Gabbana

28
29
DSquared2
Dean and Dan Caten took their audience on a journey from the
fjords of Norway to Mykonos and beyond. Norwegian fishermens
chic translated into fitted jeans worn with brightly-coloured, slouchy
layers, patchwork jackets and beanies, while the Greek islands
stripped away the layers to reveal cropped trousers and T-shirts. To
complete the journey, glam rock took hold, replacing holiday garb
with stovepipe trousers, skinny ties and dapper, fitted jackets.
Dean & Dan Caten

30
31
Emporio Armani
Working primarily with shades of grey, Giorgio Armani created
a fabulous collection of casual suits with quirky finishes. Classic
jackets shimmered in charcoal edged with translucent trim, were
moulded from black leather or were cast from mottled fabrics.
Meanwhile, sheer shirts were worn with dark ties or supplanted by
transparent tops and crinkly T-shirts. To finish, duffel bags and two-
toned knitwear accentuated the relaxed air.
Giorgio Armani

32
33
Enrico Coveri
Banishing the greys of last season, for Spring/Summer 2012,
Enrico Coveri embraced a profusion of colour that he crafted into
adroitly-tailored jackets paired with cuffed shorts and ankle-length
trousers. Lavender and lilac were interspersed by slices of deep
aqua and spring green. To complete the colour explosion, jackets
in gold and pants in fuchsia were succeeded by floral suits and
gorgeous, paisley prints.
Enrico Coveri2010

34
35
Ermanno Scervino
A nonchalant air with a seductive undertow prevailed at Ermanno
Scervino as ruffled, grey suits worn with open-necked shirts and
oversized kerchiefs made way for deep-V sweaters, rolled cuffs and
fedoras. Slouchy knitwear and driving gloves lent the collection a
sense of outdoor activity, while crumpled shirts and stubbled chins
reverberated with lazy-Sunday appeal.
Ermanno Scervino

36
37
fashion from the runway

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