GARMENT Manufacturing process flow

Generally a buyer makes an inquiry as follows-

First he/she checks the Company profile (The details about machines,
products, workers, existing buyers, skills, reputation, bonded ware house, etc)
of the factory.
Previous records of works, rate of success.
He/she checks compliance and Code of contact of the company with the labor
law of the country.
Safety measures of the workers, security procedure of the products.
Proper authorization of the company from government of the country.
Negotiating Bank Support.
Facility of power supply and alternating power supply.
Strong and weak points, etc

In the final round if buyer gets satisfaction above study then he/she sends an
inquiry paper of 4 parts where he/she asks the supplier to give a price quotation for
the asking products as per the described requirement attached there.
In the paper the following components are available-
Shipment date and Quantity.
Product details of fabrication.
Size chart of the product manufacturing.
Technical sheet for sewing instruction.
Accessories and print/embroidery options.
Payment terms of cost.
Wash, lab test and other service requirement.
Packing details and assortment (proportion of packing in each carton), etc.

Calculation:
After receiving the inquiry, the company makes a costing considering all the aspects
and informs the buyer about the price of the asking product (which is called Price
quotation). Sometimes the buyer makes a negotiation to reduce the price and
makes confirmation to give the order for the asking product.

The person who communicates from the factory to the buyer is a

Merchandiser. Role and responsibilities detailed below

Garments Merchandiser:

In garments trade, a merchandiser has to face various kinds of problem till the
delivery his/her order. There is no merchandiser, who can say that, he/she has not
faces any problem up to delivery. Problem solving is one of the parts of
merchandising but if a merchandiser should follow the below working procedure
accurately then 90% problem will be solved.

Working procedures of a knit merchandiser:

The main working procedures of a merchandiser are discussed in the below:

A merchandiser must have to maintain his order by the following two ways if he/
she want to deliver his order in timely. The first and most important matter is
Fabrics follow up and the second one is Order execution.

Knit items
Fabric follow up
Now we will discuss about the very first important thing named Fabric follow up.
Fabric follow up contains the following issues:

1. Yarn booking and requisition,

2. Fabric booking,
3. Lab dip develop,
4. Local accessories booking,
5. Knitting follow up,
6. Lab dip approval,
7. Fabrics dyeing follow up and in-house.
All the main seven key factors for the fabric follow-up are discussed in
the below:
1. Yarn booking and requisition:
When the buyer forward his sample with all the details instruction, in that time a
merchandiser should be done yarn booking and requisition by following the buyers
instruction about the fabric GSM.
2. Fabric booking:
After completing the yarn booking and requisition, a merchandiser should take
necessary steps about the fabric booking. He / she has to do accurate fabric
booking by following the order specification such as-Order quantity, types of fabric
(Cotton single jersey, Stretch piquet etc), types of color for each fabric (Blue, Black,
Red etc).
3. Lab dip development:
The third and very important one is lab dip development. A merchandiser should
confirm the dyeing factory for developing the lab dip with urgent basis. Here it
must be noted that less time required for the lab-dip easier to complete the rest of
the process.
4. Local accessories booking:
After completing all the above three steps, a merchandiser should confirm the local
accessories booking such as-sewing thread, Button, Rivet, Twill tape etc. and in-
house these before completing fabric dyeing.
5. Knitting follow up:
In the mean time, a merchandiser should be followed the knitting procedure and
completed the all types of fabrics knitting before approving lab dip by the buyer.
6. Lab dip approval:
After developing the lab dip it should be sent to the buyer for its approval.
7. Fabric dyeing follow up and in-house:
After approving the lab dip by the buyer, a merchandiser should send the approved
lab dip to the dyeing factory and follow up the dyeing procedure. After completing
the dyeing procedure, all the fabrics should be in-housed in timely.
Order execution
The second and final important matter to send the shipment in timely is Order
execution

Order execution contains the following features:

1. Pattern making,
2. Print and embroidery development,
3. Fit sample making,
4. Comments,
5. Cutting the fabric,
6. Print and embroidery,
7. Sewing,
8. Finishing and QC check,
9. Shipment.
The above all nine features are discussed in the below:
1. Pattern making:
After receiving all the details from the buyer, a merchandiser should pass urgently
the entire reference sample with buyers details instruction to the pattern section
for making pattern.
2. Print and embroidery development:
If there are any print and embroidery, then it should be developed with urgent basis
by maintaining buyers instruction.
3. Fit sample making:
In the mean time, a merchandiser should make the fit sample by maintaining
buyers instruction. Here one thing should be noted that, in fit sample, the using
fabric may b varies than buyer nominated fabric, color may be varies than buyer
nominated color, but measurement must be accurate as buyers providing
measurement sheet.
4. Comments:
After making the fit sample it should send to the buyer for their comments. When
the buyer makes comment on fit sample, it must be noted and following their
comments for next steps.
5. Cutting the fabric:
When the comments are received from the buyer, a development merchandiser
should cut the fabrics for required quantity by following buyers comments.
6. Print and embroidery:
After cutting the fabric, the required cutting pieces should send to print and
embroidery section with buyers comments about the print and embroidery and
completed it with urgent basis.
7. Sewing:
After completing the print and embroidery process, all the cutting pieces should be
input in sewing section with buyers comments about the sewing.
8. Finishing and QC check:
When the sewing process will complete then all the garments are sent to the
finishing section. After finishing, all the garments sent to the QC (Quality
Controller) department.
9. Shipment:
When the QC department approved the quality then these are sent to the buyer by
sea or air.

Garment Manufacturing Process

Design / Sketch

Pattern Design

Sample Making

Production Pattern

Grading

Marker Making

 Spreading

Cutting

Sorting/Bundling

Sewing/Assembling

Inspection

Pressing/ Finishing

Final Inspection

Packing

Despatch

Operation of Garments Manufacturing are

given below in details:
SL
No. Operation Job Method
It is given by buyers to
manufacturers containing sketches
Design/Ske including measurements of Manual/Computeri
01 tch particular styles zed
Basic block is an individual
component of garments without any
style of design (without Allowance, Manual/Computeri
02 Basic Block Style, Design) zed
When a pattern is made for a
particular style with net dimension
regarding the basic block along with
Working allowance then it is called working Manual/Computeri
03 Pattern pattern. zed
To make a sample, this will be
approved by buyer. After making a
Sample sample, it is sent to buyer for
04 Garments approval to rectify the faults Manual
After rectify the faults, sample is
Approved again sent to buyers. If it is ok then ,
05 Sample then it is called approved sample Manual
Fabric Costing
Making Charged
Trimmings
06 Costing Profit Manual
Production Making allowance with net Manual/Computeri
07 Pattern dimension for bulk production zed
08 Grading If the buyer requires different sizes, Manual/Computeri
so should be grade as S, M, L, XL, zed
 XXL
Marker is a thin paper which
contains all the components for
Marker different sizes for a particular style Manual/Computeri
09 Making of garments zed
Fabric To spread the fabrics on table Manual/Computeri
10 Spreading properly for cutting zed
To cut fabric according to marker Manual/Computeri
11 Cutting dimension zed
Sort out the fabric according to size
Sorting & and for each size make in individual
12 Bundling bundles Manual
13 Sewing To assemble a full garments Manual
After sewing we will get a complete
garment which is treated with steam
ironing & also several finishing
Ironing & processes are done for example
14 Finishing extra loose thread cutting Manual
15 Inspection Should be approved as initial sample Manual
16 Packing Treated by Polyethylene bag Manual
After packing, it should be placed In
17 Cartooning cartooning for export Manual
Despatchin
18 g Ready for export Manual

Knit Fabric:

The fabric is produced by making a loop by needle this is called knit fabric. This is
produced by Interlooping or Intralooping process. Knit fabric is produced by a
knitting machine using different type of cam design (Such as Knit Cam, Tuck Cam,
Miss Cam). This is a continuous process for making knit fabric. Knit fabrics have
different features such as good comfort ability, good texture, wrinkle, bulky effect,
good elasticity, easy to sew and wear. There is also low wastage rate in knit fabric
than woven fabric. Knit fabric has good porosity of air & water.

Knit Fabric Manufacturing Process with Flow Chart:

Knit fabric is produced by different step. At first we should collect yarn
from spinning, which is made by following a process such as blow room, carding,
pre-comber drawing, super lap former, combing, drawing, simplex, ring frame. Then
this Ring is converting into winding cone by ring bobbin and creeling in the knitting
section. Then this yarn is knitted by looping process to make knit fabric. I mention
the easiest flow chart of knit fabric manufacturing in below.
Yarn Numbering System (Yarn Count) | Direct Count
System | Indirect Count System
Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter)
of the yarn and also indicate the relationship between length and weight(the
mass per unit length or the length per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the
concept of yarn count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of
length to weight.

The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or
count. There are a number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness.
But they are classified as follows .

Types of Yarn Count:

1. Direct Count System

2. Indirect Count System
1. Direct Count System:
The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is
the yarn count! The common features of aII direct count systems are the
length of yarn is fixed and the weight of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

N= (Wl) / L

Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

 1. Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters
2. Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters
3. Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres
4. Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres
5. Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.
6. Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds
The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that
40Tex means 1000 meters of yarn weigh 40gm.

From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count)

coarser the yarn and lower the number finer the yarn.

2. Indirect Count System:

The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is
the yarn count. The common features of all indirect count systems are the
weight of yarn is fixed and the Length of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate they are count:

N = (Lw) / Wl

Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample.

1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English
pound. So that 32 Ne Means 32 hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards
length weigh one pound.

For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine

the weight of a known length of the yarn. For taking out known lengths of
 yarns, a wrap-reel is used. The length of yarn reeled off depends upon the
count system used. One of the most important requirements for a spinner
is to maintain the average count and count variation within control.

Yarn Count Variation:

The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the
weight of a lea and this is expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples
and the length being considered for count checking affects this. While
assessing count variation, it is very important to test adequate number of
leas. After reeling the appropriate length of yarn, the yarn is conditioned
in the standard atmosphere for testing before it's weight is determined.

This fabric plan is one valuable resource for garment industry professionals who
deal with knitted fabrics. Fabric knitters can also use this chart as a guideline.
In the following table 18 different knits fabric categories are listed. For each
categories what yarn counts are used and what machine gauge to use to get
required GSM are shown.
For example, suppose one needs to make Singe Jersey of 160 GSM. To produce
fabric of that quality, he needs to use 30's yarn and 24 gauge machine.
Below is flow chart of knit merchandising-
Sampling

Costing

Order confirmation

T&A

Lab dip approval

Yarn order

Trims approval

Trims order

Pre production meeting

pp samples approval

Garment Testing

Knitting approval

CMT

Finishing

Shipment sample approval(gold seal)

Finishing

Packing

Final inspection

Goods dispatched
Time and Action Plan

Time and Action (TNA) calendar is one of the most important tools for
managing a project. In garment manufacturing each order is not less than a
project to a merchant because from order receiving to completion of an
order it involves a number of tasks of various timelines and utilization of
various resources. Like number of processes, lot of people are also involved
to accomplish an order. Similarly each order is unique in terms of process
and time demand. So, a detailed plan with well-defined responsibility is must
in order to complete each order to get completed on time.A time and action
calendar defines the ideal date/time period within which the major activities
of an order should occur against a scheduled delivery window.

TNA in Garment Industry

Time and Action Calendar or TNA, a popular tool used in apparel

manufacturing industry is a technique for tracking and following up of
important milestones in preproduction processes to ensure timely delivery
within stipulated delivery date. Garment pre-production and merchandising
functions are characterized by people in an organization doing multiple
activities. While some of the activities are dependent and follow each other,
a few others are independent. Every garment company takes enormous care
during the planning of an order. Every little detail is interwoven into the
planning system. Making a TNA Calendar is not just entering activity names
and duration in tabular forms; it is also about scientifically working-out the
activity duration, logically determining the preceding and succeeding
activities.Time and action calendar consist of the short term and long term
plans so carefully laid out.

A time and action calendar is a most effective communication tool that

proves it to be useful to this task. The chart consists of time frames listed for
every action planned (major ones) and these actions need to be earned out
on time. The purpose of TNA is to cross check at frequent intervals, say,
once a week, whether the planning is being executed satisfactorily. The
more frequent the checks, the easier it is to correct deviations. TNA is
especially useful when a buyer wants to know the status of execution of an
order.

Structure of TNA
Normally merchandisers prepare a plan of the order in a spreadsheet by
listing down the key processes in first column and planned date of action for
each process in the next column. This planning sheet is popularly known as
time and action calendar (TNA). Once TNA calendar is made, then it can be
easy for merchandiser list down their daily to do list and taking it one by
one. As per TNA schedule processes can be executed on timely basis to
track whether an order is on track or it will get delayed.

In order to make TNA below mentioned information must be available

Process flow of an order with the list of task which need to be performed
Production capacity of cutting, sewing, washing and finishing
For sewing batch wise and product wise capacity (production per day per
batch)
Lead time of activities, e.g. raw material lead time, sampling lead time,
etc.
Shipment date or planned ex-factory date
Normally TNA does not depend on fabric used in merchandise like woven or
knits. TNA is largely depends on the particular process flow of an order,
machine requirement and available production capacity. In TNA planned
cutting date (PCD) and ex-factory date these are the two most critical dates.

Sample TNA for formal shirt manufacturing order:

The TNA derived by assuming the order of 10000 pieces of formal shirts,
made out of 100% cotton, plain woven solid dyed fabric, with embroidery
logo on it. The order is for SS 2013, delivery date 1stMarch 2013, shipment
at New York-USA.
*All dates given are assuming Sunday as weekly holiday.
Importance of TNA

The importance of TNA can be summarized.

1. It helps to streamline the pre-production activities.

2. Easy understanding of order processing.

3. Clear understanding of timelines given by buyer.

4. It gives the clear idea about the minor or sub activities that need to
perform during order processing at different level.

5. TNA gives the idea about the status of running order andtalks
about delay or deviation, if any

6. TNA gives the dates at which raw material need to be sourced, in a

way it helps to optimise the inventory.

7. TNA also reduces the risk of delivery delay.

Factors need to be considered while preparing TNA:

1. Production capacity of plant

2. Style type of merchandise

3. Festivals of manufacturing country

4. Holidays

5. Shipment details

6. Festivals of country from where raw material is imported

7. Logistics facilities

8. Lead time estimated by buyer

9. Style complications
 10. Fabric and trims manufacturing complications

11. Buffer required from each department

12. Political stability of the country

13. Flexibility of freight forwarder

14. Response time from buyer at different stages

15. Lead times of various activities like L/C payment, custom

clearance, etc

16. Cut off dates for shipments

Importance of key activities in TNA

1. Sampling:

Sampling is the most crucial task and hence need to plan in TNA very
carefully, some sampling stages are very important so any deviation or delay
in that will affect the whole TNA.
Proto sample: The submission of proto sample totally depends upon buyers
enquiry date.Any delay in proto submission or approval will affect order
conformation date, which will subsequently affect the submission of fabric
development and fit sample, as without proto approval its impossible to
proceed further. In sample TNA it is shown that the planned proto
submission date is 09-06-2012 and planned approval date is 27-06-2012, i.e.
15 working days are kept for proto sample approval.

Fit sample: After approval of proto sample manufacturer starts working on

fit sample, that needs to submit exactly at planned date. Any delay in fit
sample submission will cause the delay in P.O., size set sample submission.
Fit sample must submit within 45 days of proto approval as to get the
sample of bulk fabric it takes 20-25 working days to get in-house; hence
after approval of proto sample i.e. on 27-06-2012, the planned fit sample
submission date is 27-07-2012. Sometimes fabric suppliers are nominated by
buyer or buyer will supply the fabric in either case it may not take more
time. Hence, in time and action calendar approximate 1 month gap is shown
between proto sample approval and fit sample submission. Buyer must give
the comments on fit sample within 7 days. Any delay from buyer side will
directly affect the further process. To make fit sample process to complete
within time period, the planned approval date for fit is 22-08-2012 i.e. 21
days or 3 weeks is kept deliberately between first fit submission and
approval, in order to accommodate failures and re submissions of fit sample.

AD/Photo shoot/Salesman sample: These samples are generally

submitted parallel with fit sample. The same period is allotted to salesman
sample i.e. 21 working days in TNA. These samples mainly used for
advertising or for visual merchandising or by sales man to collect the order
from retailers; hence from buyers perspective, timely submission of these
samples is very important. Order size mainly depends on this sample and
any delay or quality issue in sample can reduce the order size. Sometimes
buyer may ask more number of samples e.g. 100 pieces, in that case
merchandiser must keep in mind the capacity of sampling room, time
required to complete the demand of buyer, style complexity and buyers
submission date while making the TNA.
Size-set sample: This stage of sampling is most important, without size set
approval bulk fabric for production should not be cut in order to
accommodate any changes by the buyer in the bulk production. So, any
delay in size set sample will directly affect PCD and subsequently affect the
shipment date. Size set sample need to submit with actual bulk fabric, hence
for timely submission of size set sample merchandiser should make sure that
all bulk fabric should be in-house well in advance of size set submission
date. To avoid the delay, as soon as bulk trims and fabrics are get in-house
within 3 days size-set sample can be produced and submitted to buyer for
approval. As per TNA, in table no. 2, planned submission date of the size-set
sample is on 08-10-2012 and expected approval is on 25-10-2012 i.e.15
working days are kept for completion of size set sample approval process.

GPT sample: Before submission of PP sample it is very necessary that

Garment Performance Test should be cleared from buyer. This sample sent
to either third party inspection or in-house testing lab. While preparing the
TNA merchandiser must keep in mind that test results should get approved
from buyer well in advance of PP meeting. For approval of GPT 20 days are
kept in TNA to deal with any delay in the process. Further, to avoid the delay
in submission of PP sample and PCD, GPT is happening along with Size-set
sample i.e. from 08-10-2012 to 30-10-2012.
Pilot-run: Before going for actual production pilot run is carried out, in
order to see the complications in actual production and to give the sufficient
time for learning curve of operator on sewing floor. In TNA preparation one
day is kept for pilot run for smoother and uninterrupted production. As soon
as first few lots are cut, make sure that they will immediately send for
embroidery. Hence cut panels are available on time for pilot run. In sample
TNA PCD is on 31-10-2012 while pilot run is planned on 03-11-2012, i.e. one
day gap is kept for embroidery of cut panels for pilot run. Pilot run can be
conducted before or after PP Meeting.

Pre-production (PP) meeting and sample: Preproduction meeting is very

necessary part of any export order processing; hence merchandiser keeps
one day only conducting PP meeting, in order to discuss the expected
difficulties during production. Any delay in this meeting or if more obstacles
are there to solve in production will directly affect the PCD and ultimately
results in shipment delay.

PP sample need to submit within 10 days after approval of size-set and GPT
samples. As without approval of PP sample production should not start.To
maintain the PCD merchandiser should be very careful while preparation of
TNA for PP sample. PP sample is normally pooled out from pilot-run, hence
submission date for PP sample is 03-11-2012 and approval date is 12-11-
2012 i.e. 6 working days gap is kept for PP sample.

Top of production sample: As soon as production starts and first few

pieces are come out of line TOP sample need to submit to buyer. Its very
crucial stage where merchandiser must keep in mind that by any reason
TOP sample get rejected then production end date is going to be delayed.
This can straight way affects the shipment date. In sample TNA, it is shown
that sample is submitted on 17-11-2012 and planned approval date is 21-11-
2-12.
2. Fabric and trim sourcing:

Fabric and trim sourcing is very time consuming process which includes
desk loom and lab-dip approvals, trim and art work approval, FPT approval.
The fabric sourcing itself will take lead time of 30-60 days depending upon
type of fabric. For yarn dyed fabric it takes approx. 45 day, for piece dyed
fabric it take approx. 30 days and for fibre dyed fabric it takes approx. 55-60
days. In sample TNA, it is assumed that fabric used is solid dyed hence 30
days lead time is considered while preparing the TNA, trims also takes the
approximate 30-45 days depending upon from where trims are getting
sourced. Hence while designing the TNA for sourcing the following activities
need to keep in mind.

Fabric approvals: With approval of proto sample, merchandiser needs to

submit lab-dip for colour conformation. Lab-dip approval itself is a long
process, as development of shade and submission itself will take 10-15
working days for one attempt, hence for after 15 days of proto approval Lab
dip is submitted. Hence while preparing the TNA merchandiser must keep in
mind that, complexity of shade, buyers specification etc. any delay in lab-dip
submission will end up with fabric production delay, which will results in
delay in; Size-set sample submission. Hence to avoid the delay in TNA 30
working days buffer is kept from submission date i.e. 14-07-2012 to planned
approval date i.e.20-08-2012.

Trims and art work: Trims and their art work are other important factors
of sourcing department after fabric. Timely approval of trims is very
necessary. Trim production and shipment is also time consuming process,
especially if it is imported, hence while preparing the TNA 25 working days
buffer is kept between submission date i.e.14-07-2012and approval date13-
08-2012.

Fabric Performance Test (FPT): Before fit sample submission date FPT
report must be approved by buyer, as fit sample submitted in similar fabric.
As without approval of FPT fabric supplier cant ship the fabric to garment
manufacturer. Any delay in FPT submission in will cause in fit sample
submission and may show impact on fabric in-house date which will
subsequently affect the size-set submission date.

3. Production

The most crucial part of any TNA is actual production. While preparing the
TNA for production following activities need to consider.
Planned Cut Date: The most important date for both sourcing and
merchandising department. Most of the time, TNA is prepared by keeping
PCD in mind. To achieve the PCD on time sourcing department plays
important role, as lead time of trims and fabric production and availability
for garment production is controlled by this department. While preparing
the TNA expected lead time and sufficient buffer should keep for sourcing.

As there is embroidery included on cut panels, hence after cutting the cut
panels need to send for embroidery. Considering that embroidery is in-house
then 6 working days after PCD to complete the embroidery need to be
consider in TNA. If embroidery is outsourced then accordingly more number
of days can be included in TNA.
In some merchandise, washing, printing is required hence merchandiser
need to take care of the lead time requirement for the same including
necessary buffer.

Productions start and end date: These two dates are purely depends
upon shipment date and production capacity. As soon as PCD is achieved the
production should start immediately after pilot run and approval of PP
Sample. Any deviation in this date will subsequently affect the TOP sample
submission date and shipment date. Number of days required for production
is decided by capacity allocated to that particular merchandise or number of
days of available for actual shipment. For mentioned sample TNA, following
assumptions were made while calculating the number of days required
completing the production.

Assumptions:
No. of pieces= 10000
SAM of garment= 28.5 min
No. of M/c= 50
Efficiency = 45%
The calculation for production days can be shown as:

So, if 25 working days needs for production, then production will start on
15-11-2012 and it will end on 15-12-2012, if only one sewing line of 50
machines is allocated for 10000 pieces.

Finishing and packing: As finishing and packing is equally important,

hence as soon as first lot comes out of production, finishing and packing get
started. This can be started parallel along with production. In sample TNA,
17-11-2012 is a starting date of finishing and packing, while 18-12-2012 is
end date. 3 days buffer is kept deliberately between production date and
finishing packing completion date to avoid any consequences.

Apart from these main activities, following constraints merchandiser should

keep in mind while preparing the TNA for production.

1. Actual shipment date

 2. Efficiency of production line

3. Style complications

4. Operators skills

5. Start-up loss

6. Learning curve of line

7. Finishing and packing capacity

8. Availability of alternate operators for absenteeism

Any delay in production will directly leads to shipment delay hence for
actual production proper buffer should be allocated in TNA.

Critical Path method for TNA preparation:

Fashion merchandising is a much complicated network of linier and non-

linier activities to perform. Activities performed are interdependent and
need of synchronization between succeeding and preceding activities to
make a non-linear process network. The longest chain of activities
considering task dependencies is called critical path. It is a common practice
industry to list activities from order receipt to delivery in linear sequence
and assigning time duration to each activity by backward planning, which is
wrong as the activities are never linear since there are lot of parallel
activities. Therefore, the sequence of activities should be drawn either as
PERT network or Gantt chart format.

Even though most of the users are aware of the term critical path method
(CPM), CPM may be elaborated as critical means possibility of non-
conformance is higher as per previous experience; some even link critical
with cost involving that activity. Everybody select critical activities
hypothetically based on intuition or previous experience or buyers
milestones and no one actually makes PERT network of activities and then
arrive at CPM.
It was found that in majority of the cases the buyer specifies target dates of
key activities and based on those target dates the manufacturing
organization creates their own TNA adding buffer days (to ensure that buyer
target dates are not missed). It was also a common practice to have two
TNA: one with few main important activities (also called milestone activities)
that are suggested by the buyer, and another one with more number of in-
between micro activities (in-house activities) to exercise control over macro
activities PERT network or Gantt chart should be mandatorily prepared to
decide upon which all activities should be there in TNA calendar.
Merchandiser must prepare either and the resultant critical path should be
the activity chain for TNA calendar, all activities falling in critical path are
critical activities. Critical activities should always be on focus, a single
minute delay in any of the critical activities may lead to final shipment delay.

Conclusion:

Garments manufacturing is not a business of One Man Show rather it is a

Team-Work where lot of people, organizations, suppliers, buyer, sub-
contractors and manufacturers are involved. Moreover, all tasks have to be
accomplished with in a given time frame to ship out the garments on time.
Buyer will not accept any delay in the garments delivery and if the garments
cannot be shipped out on time then there will be good possibility thatbuyer
may cancel the order or may ask for air shipment or Buyer may ask for
discount. To avoid all such adverse situation merchandiser need to do proper
planning to execute any order.

TNA is most important activity for timely shipment. If any merchandiser is

able to follow the TNA properly then it will be not a big challenge to ship the
garments on schedule.TNA for any production unit is summery of sampling,
sourcing and production activities and their sub activities. Merchandiser
generally makes the TNA on the basis of lead time mentioned by buyer,
shipment date negotiation, order quantity, production capacity. The
milestones and key/critical activities dates are mentioned by buyer while
other in-house activities need to manage by merchandiser by keeping many
things in mind. With the help of TNA merchandisers can ensures satisfaction
of each and every step with constant follow ups and in shortest cycle time
possible. Rapidly changing trends of the fashion industry is making
merchandising activities more complicated and so TNA. Merchandiser has to
prepare good and flexible TNA by keeping all facts and facets in mind. If
used effectively, a good TNA can help factory to meet production and
shipment deadlines, increase inventory turns, improve customer service, and
enhance profits.