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13
Kathys Garden:

The Token Vegetable Garden


I would rather have roses than rutabagas any day; certainly I would much rather have
lilies than zucchinis. My practical friends look down their noses at me, smugly detailing how much
more feet of cauliflower theyve put in, how many dozens of peppers & tomatoes, how many hills of
beans & rows of lettuce. Come late summer, however, I am popular with friends who planted 84 zuc-
chini plants & have bushels of baseball bat sized squash to give away or compost. I am one of the few
Heaven Continues- gardeners to benignly, even happily, accept a huge zucchini or two to make my annual token loaves of
spicy zucchini bread I am one of the few gardeners who didnt grow zucchini.
The dynamiting of the sacred site is the end My partner claims I grow flowers instead of vegetables because the eating of green stuff is contrary
of religion and the end of culture. It is the end to my Pastafarian religious diet, consisting of noodles, fettucini, & spaghetti. This is a lie, of course.
of the Munduruku people. When they dyna- Pesto is green, isnt it?
mited the waterfall, they dynamited the Mother
Actually, I do grow vegetables tucked here & there in my gardens, for the practice, if nothing more.
of the Fish and the Mother of the Animals we
Suppose, runs even my impractical mind, my family HAD to depend upon what I grow, Id better
hunt. So these fish and these animals will die.
be able to grow something edible. It is a token sort of vegetable growing but one I recommend to
All that we are involved with will die. So this is
you if you have not already rototilled a big rectangle & set out 92 nice Swiss chard plants.
the end of the Munduruku,
As in everything, the key to token vegetable gardening is passion. If you are only going to be grow-
says a mournful indigenous elder, Eurico Krixi
ing a few things why bother to plant anything but what delights you? So what if zucchini grow easily,
Munduruku. The message Valmira Krixi delivers is
with their enormous leaves & their vicious spiny stems. If you dont like zucchini, which I consider
equally chilling:
one of the most insipid foods on the planet, dont plant it. I grow patty pan squash now & then, both
We will come to an end, and our the gold and the lovely pale green kinds they have a wonderful nutty taste if you delicately steam
spirits too. It is double annihilation, them when they are small. The yield is nothing like what your sturdy zuke will give. I dont care.
Salad gardens work very well as token vegetable patches. I tuck leaf lettuce everywhere in my semi
in life and in death.
shaded upper garden bright green, bronze, red, -- all the sorts I can manage. They are pretty; they
benefit from the attention I give nearby flowers & herbs. Red Sails endures the summer heat best of
Today, more than 13,000 Munduruku Indians live any kind Ive tried. Deer Tongue is pretty & Buttercrunch unsurpassed in flavor. A packet of lettuce
in 112 villages, mainly along the upper reaches of seed will give you more lettuce than you can eat. Plant a pinch here & there every week or so; eat the
the Tapajs River and its tributaries, including the thinning& then gently gather the outer leaves (dont pick the whole plant). In your salad garden you
Teles Pires River. This indigenous group once oc- can gown greens that are hard to find in markets red raddichio, smokey flavored argula, pleasantly
cupied and completely dominated such an exten- bitter endive. You can also have beautiful coarse cucumbers & honey and startle unwary dinner
sive Amazonian region that in colonial Brazil the guests when you put them in salads.
whole of the Tapajs River Basin was known by Everyone grows tomatoes. I dont usually, except for the little sweet cherry tomatoes my children
the Europeans as Munduruknia love. Sweet 100s cant be beat. A single plant will keep small munchers happy for weeks. I grew big
The sudden appearance of rubber-tapping across tomatoes year after year before realizing my family like the tiny ones best. Whatever sort you grow,
Amazonia during the second half of the 19th cen- freshly picked sunripened tomatoes are an adventure not a thing like the supermarket sorts, which I
tury shattered the power of Munduruknia, and suspect are a way of recycling Styrofoam packing material. Somewhere there are tomato factories
deprived the Munduruku of most of their territory. where Styrofoam is shaped into balls & sprayed red before it is shipped to your local grocery. People
They just kept fragments in the lower Tapajs and who want real tomatoes grow their own.
larger areas in the upper reaches of the river, but Paying attention to your familys pleasure as well as your own is more important than it might seem.
even so it was only a fraction of what they occu- I remember the year that, having a garden space brilliant with sunlight & rich with river silt, I decided
pied in the past to plant melons lovely, dripping honeysweet cantaloupes. When my melons ripened dozens of
The Indians are outraged by the lack of respect them it turned out that only I & one of the resident basset hounds liked them. Everyone else reacted
with which they are being treated. A statement as though theyd been offered a platter of banana slugs. Belle, the hound, & I spent a few warm
issued in 2011 asks: What would the white man summer evenings sharing cantaloupes in the melon patch a slice for her, a slice for me but we
say if we built our villages on the top of his build- couldnt, between us, eat all that bounty.
ings, his holy places and his cemeteries? It is, the I do grow Swiss chard (though not 92 plants in a rectangle). The way to make it tasty, by the way, is
Munduruku say, the equivalent of razing St. Peters to lightly saut it with plenty of garlic in a bit of oil. Boiled chard is unfit to eat. Red chard is particu-
in Rome to construct a nuclear power plant, or larly pretty & can be tucked into your flower garden where it looks tropical and barbaric next to orange
digging up your grandmothers grave to build a & yellow flowers or contrast enticingly with pale pink & purple ones. Parsley is pretty in the flower
parking lot. garden too, as is small leafed basil along sunlit paths.
The Nation-State has established a hi- But plant what you like. Is it sweet corn you crave or
erarchy of values based on criteria like really beany flavored old fashioned pole beans? Do you
class, color and ethnic origin. In this hanker for sunwarmed strawberries or tiny fresh pas?
Whatever it is, you can probably grow it, but if your gar-
categorization, certain groups count den is limited by all your roses & lilies, or because you are
less and can be simply crushed. writing a great book & havent much gardening time, just
The ethnocide continues, in the way people look make sure that anything you plant is exactly what you
at us, the way they want us to be like them, sub- most want. Your neighbor will bring you zucchinis.
jugating our organizations, the way they tell us Dont worry.
that our religion isnt worth anything, that theirs is
what matters, the way they tell us our behavior is -Kathy Epling
wrong. They are obliterating the identity of the In-
dian as a human being.
mongabay.com

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