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HELICULTURE - Farming snails for the table

The set-up costs


arent very high
By Helen Smith structed crates or pens that
are often temperature con-
Do you engage in helicul- trolled, while the Italian
ture? If you have a garden method allows the snails to
there is a good chance that free range within an enclo-
you are an inadvertent, sure open to the environ-
probably reluctant, helicul- ment. The French method is
tivator. more intensive than the Ital-
Heliculture is the name ian with the snails needing to
given to the cultivation of be sprayed twice daily as well
snails. For a number of rea- as having fresh food deliv-
sons it is one of the simplest ered to them.
forms of farming. The Italian method has
First of all it takes very lit- problems, at least in Aus-
tle space. A suburban back- tralian conditions, because of
yard could easily contain a the number of predators to
small snail farm, since breed- be excluded from the enclo-
ing stock require only one sure. Stories of mice, rats and
square metre per 200 snails, snakes devouring a growers
while a density of 300 snails entire breeding stock
per square metre can be used overnight are cautionary
for fattening. tales that should not be
The cost of setting up does taken lightly. Both forms re- Snail grower Jill Campbell, Riversbend Escargot
not have to be high and the quire the snails to be fed a pictured with brown garden snails.
process of breeding and particular diet for some time
growing snails takes very lit- before they are ready to har-
tle effort. Finally, the acqui- vest. This can take nine
sition of stock can be as months to one year from the
simple as going into your time the babies, exact repli-
garden on a damp night. cas of adult snails, hatch
Helix aspersa (the brown from eggs that have been laid
garden snail) is the main about two weeks earlier.
snail grown for eating in Snails are hermaphrodites,
Australia. On restaurant that is, they contain both
menus they are given the male and female parts, but
name escargots, the French they must mate with another
word for snails, since it was snail. Thus, in one coupling,
the French who began the an individual snail will re-
tradition of using snails as ceive sperm while depositing
part of their diet. Surpris- its own sperm in its partner,
ingly for French cuisine, eat- a procedure which can take
ing snails has health benefits, up to twelve hours. Soft
some of which include the sago-like eggs are laid in
fact that they are fat free and batches in the soil and can
high in vitamins A, C and sometimes be seen when gar-
D, together with a large dening.
number of essential amino Three centimetres and
acids. However, the same eight grams is the minimum
cannot be said for some of size for eating and once they
the rich sauces in which they reach that size they must be
are served. purged before they are ready
There are two forms of for processing. There are sev-
snail farming and both are eral schools of thought about
carried out in Australia. The the best way to purge the
French method is to contain snails. One method requires Specially built pens are used to house the farmed
the snails in specially con- that they simply be deprived snails.
46 Small FARMS January/February 2009
HELICULTURE - Farming snails for the table
of food for up to one week
until their digestive systems
have been cleared out. Other
methods include putting
them into boxes of bran for a
week or so, or feeding them
on milk for the same period
with the same purpose of
cleaning out their digestive
tracts. Purging is an essential
part of processing, to elimi-
nate any grittiness from the
meat.
Once this has been accom-
plished, the snails are ready
for the pot. Pre-cooking is
followed by the removal of
the flesh from the shells.
Then the flesh is ready for
final preparation. One recipe
entails threading several
snails onto a skewer before
rolling the skewer in a mix-
ture of breadcrumbs and
herbs and frying them in oil
until golden. Another recipe
uses them as the basis for a
pate.
In the Hunter Valley,
Robert and Helen Dyball
have been cultivating edible
snails since 2,000. After
much experimentation they
now grow the snails in pens
in a long igloo.
We produce about 2000
snails per week in season,
Helen says. We could easily
sell twice that number. Some
individual restaurants would
take 1,000 snails every week,
but we cant produce that
many, in spite of having out- Queensland, Victoria and Snails move more easily when the leaves and
sourced some of the snail New South Wales, Helen ground are moist. They eat more and grow faster
cultivation. explains. When the snails with the correct environmental conditions.
The Dyballs have estab- reach a suitable size and con-
lished a company, Snails Bon dition for purging, we buy
Appetite, for the purpose of them back and process
producing edible snails. In them.
an effort to increase their To be eligible for the buy-
outpu,t they have developed back, the snails must be at
a network of growers who, least three centimetres
for an annual fee, are pro- across, eight grams in weight
vided with breeding snails, and cream in colour, not
special snail food, transport black. To determine their
and any other requirements size, the Dyballs use a metal
necessary for them to estab- ring with an inside measure-
lish their own snail farm. ment of three centimetres.
We have small farmers, in- Any snails that fall through
dividuals and even primary the ring are not ready for
schools who are growing processing and do not qual- These plants play a major role in the production of
snails for us. So far we have ify for the buy-back, says snails and not only act as a rich food source but
about 20 growers based in Helen. also protection from the elements and predators.
January/February 2009 Small FARMS 47
HELICULTURE - Farming snails for the table
Processing for market in- fencing which previously was
volves purging, cooking and simply shadecloth to half a
freezing the snails, after metre in height. Now the
which the flesh is soft-vac- area is bounded by corru-
uum packed and they are gated iron with soft bird net-
ready to be shipped all over ting draped over the outside
Australia. The Dyballs purge surface.
their snails by keeping them Snakes dont like the loose-
free of feed for one week. ness of the netting, says Jill.
In WA, Jill Campbell and Jill and Ken hope to have
Ken Wright have a snail farm their first snails ready for sale
that they established three in about a year.
years ago on their property, Every six weeks or so,
Riversbend Escargot, at Robert Garreffa of Mondo
Nannup. Carne Wholesale Butchers in
We researched the two Perth buys about 150 dozen
methods and decided that pre-processed Australian-
the open enclosures of the produced snails ready to be
Italian system suited us best, used in gourmet cooking.
Jill explained. We had a big We sell snails to hotels,
setback 18 months ago, restaurants, caterers and a
when two dugites raided the few to customers in our re-
enclosures and ate our entire tail shop, Robert explains.
breeding stock, so we had to Unlike the imported canned
start again from scratch. For- snails, they are not rubbery In this case corragated iron is added to the snail
tunately the snails had re- and do not taste of brine. pen to reduce the threat of snakes entering the en-
cently laid plenty of eggs, so They are very clean on the closure.
the farm was not totally de- palate and have a texture may be a gourmet experience South Wales Ph: 02 4998
stroyed. similar to oysters, although out there just waiting for 0030
Since then, the couple have they have their own flavour. you. Riversbend Escargo Nannup,
modified their perimeter Check the garden. There Snails Bon Appetite, New WA. Ph: 08 9756 0918.

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48 Small FARMS January/February 2009

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