Superimposed Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are

Superimposed on Each Other
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Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Diagram Class Count

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSa 1 or 2
300cl, 400cl, or 500cl

Seaming two plies with one edge

SSb 1 or 2
folded using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies with a finished

SSc 1 or 2
edge 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSd 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies with finished

SSe 2 edge in two steps using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
 Bottom Coverstitch Seaming on two
SSf 2
plies using 406cl, 502cl, or 506cl

Bottom Coverstitch Seaming on two

SSh 2 plies 100cl, 300cl,or 400cl AND
103cl

Seaming three plies Raw edge finish

SSj 1 or 2 where center ply may be ribbon
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies where center

SSk 1 ply may be folded edge finish using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Clean finish Seaming of two plies

SSl 1
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Joining two Plies using 100cl, 300cl,

SSm 2
or 400cl
 Clean finish Seaming of two plies
SSn 1 or 2 folded to one face using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSp 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies using 100cl,

SSq 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSr 1
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSs 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using 100cl,

SSt 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Clean finish Edge Seam with Third
SSu 2 ply as tape using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Internal Seaming of two plies using

SSv 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies with edges folded

SSw 2 in two passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two passes

SSx 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies in two passes

SSy 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Butt Seaming two plies in two or

SSz 3 three passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming two plies using 100cl,
SSaa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSab 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSac 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSad 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies with using 100cl,

SSae 2 300cl, or 400cl
known as "French Seam"

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSaf 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSag 3
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSah 3
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSaj 3
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSak 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSal 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSam 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSan 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSao 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSap 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSaq 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSar 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSas 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSat 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSau 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSav 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSaw 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSax 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSay 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSaz 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSba 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbb 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbc 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbd 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,
SSbe 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbf 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbg 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming multiple plies using 100cl,

SSbh 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Lapped Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are
Superimposed and/or Folded on Each Other
Seam Needle Typical Uses and Stitch
Click to Download the Diagram
Class Count Types
 Overlap seam of two plies at
LSa 1 or 2 edges using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Overlap seam of two plies

LSb 1 or 2 with one edge folded using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Flat Felled Seam using

100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Attachment
LSc 1, 2 or 3

Seaming of two plies where

one ply is folded and set in
LSd 1 or 2
the middle of the other using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming Three plies with

finished edges where two
LSe 1 or 2 plies lay in one direction
(Yoke stitch) using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming Three plies with
finished edges where two
LSf 1 plies lay in one direction
(Yoke stitch) using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies with

finished edges (Shirt
LSg 2
Placket) 100cl, 300cl,or
400cl

Seaming three plies with

finished edges and
LSj 2
interfacing (Shirt Placket)
100cl, 300cl,or 400cl

Seaming two plies with

finished edges (simple Shirt
LSk 2
Placket) 100cl, 300cl,or
400cl

Seaming three plies with

LSl 2 finished edges 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl

Seaming two plies with

finished edges and
LSm 2 interfacing (simple Shirt
Placket) using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
 Two plies clean finished
LSn 1 or 2 folded and bound using
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSp 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSq 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSr 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSs 2 steps using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSt 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming three plies where
one binds the other two
?LSu 2
behind the face 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl

Seaming two plies where

LSv 1 or 2 face binds the second ply
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming four plies where

one ply wraps around two
LSw 4 facing plies, bound to
another ply using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies with

LSx 2 raw edges in two passes
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies with

clean finish edges in two
LSy 2
passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSz 3
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming three plies with
LSaa 3 raw edges using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl

Seaming three plies with

LSab 3 clean finish using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies bound

LSac 2 with raw edges using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies bound

LSad 2 with raw edges using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in two

passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
LSae 2
400cl
"Stitched Pleat"

Seaming two plies using

LSaf 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming two plies clean
LSag 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSah 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies clean

LSaj 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSak 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies as a

LSal 2 placket using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies as a

LSam 2 placket with interfacing
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Seaming two plies as a
LSan 2 placket with interfacing
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies clean

LSap 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies clean

LSaq 1 or 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming four plies using

LSar 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSas 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies with seam

LSat 2 tape using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies using
LSau 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSav 4
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in three

LSaw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSay 4
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies with

LSaz 4 raw edges using 100cl, 300cl,
or 400cl
 Seaming three plies in two
LSbb 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies using

LSbc 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming four plies in two

LSbd 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming four plies in two

LSbe 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies clean

LSbf 2 finish using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming two plies using
LSbg 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies using

SSbh 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSbj 1 or 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSbk 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSbl 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming two plies in three
passes using two of 100cl,
300cl,
LSbm 3 or 400cl and one 500cl stitch

Sometimes known as "mock

felling"

Seaming three plies in two

LSbn 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSbo 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LSbp 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LSbq 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies in three
LSbr 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming four plies with raw

LSbs 1 or 2 edges using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LSbt 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSbu 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LSbv 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming four plies in three
LSbw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LSbx 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSby 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in three

LSbz 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSca 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming five plies in two
LScb 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LScc 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming four plies in three

LScd 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSce 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LScf 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies in two
LScg 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LSch 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LScj 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LSck 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LScl 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies in two
LScm 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LScn 3 or three passes using 100cl,
300cl, or 400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LSco 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LScp 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in three

LScq 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies in three
LScr 4 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LScs 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSct 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LScu 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LScw 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies in two
LScx 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming three plies in two

LScy 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming seven plies in two

LScz 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Seaming two plies using

LSda 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSdb 2 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl
 Seaming three plies using
LSdd 2
100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Seaming two plies in two

LSdo 3 passes using 100cl, 300cl, or
400cl

Bound Seams
Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge
of Two or More Plies of Fabric
Right Click and select
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSa 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSb 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Binding over the edge of one ply
BSc 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of two plies

SSd 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of two plies

BSe 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSf 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSg 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of two plies

BSh 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Binding over the edge of one ply
BSj 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSk 1 or 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSl 4
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSm 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

SSn 4
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSp 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl
 Binding over the edge of two plies
BSq 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSr 3
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Binding over the edge of one ply

BSs 2
using 100cl, 300cl, or 400cl

Flat Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn
Together at the Edges
Right Click &
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

FSa 4
using 606cl, or 607cl
 Coverstitch Seaming two plies
FSb 2
using 602cl, or 603cl

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

FSc 2
using 602cl, or 603cl

Seaming two plies using 602cl, or

FSd 4
603cl, then 300cl, or 400cl

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

FSe 2
using 602cl, or 603cl

Coverstitch Seaming two plies

FSf 2
using 602cl, or 603cl

Edge Finish Stitching

 Fabric Edge is Finished with Stitching
Right Click and
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFb 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFc 1
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 500cl

EFd 1 or 2
"Serging"

Finishing one ply using 500cl

EFe 1 or 2
"Serging" Variation
 Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFf 1 or 2
300cl,400cl or 600cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFg 2
300cl, or 400cl

EFh 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using 406cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFj 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using

EFk 2
100cl,300cl, or 400cl

EFl 2 Finishing one ply using 406cl

 Finishing one ply using 103cl
EFm 1 or 306cl
Blindstitch Hem

Finishing two plies using 100cl,

EFn 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFp 1 or 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

300cl, or 400cl
EFq 2
Reinforced Hem with
Interlining

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

300cl, or 400cl
EFr 2
Reinforced Hem with
Interlining

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFs 2 300cl, or 400cl
Example; Belt Make
 Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFt 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFu 2 300cl, or 400cl
"Spagetti Strap"

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFv 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFw 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFx 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl
 Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFy 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFz 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFaa 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

EFab 2 Finishing one ply using 602cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFac 1 or 2 300cl, or 400cl
Make Belt
 Finishing one ply using 100cl,
EFad 2 300cl, or 400cl
Make Belt

EFae 1 or 2 Finishing one ply using 500cl

Finishing one ply using 500cl,

EFaf 3
then 602cl

Finishing one ply using 500cl,

EFag 3
then 602cl

Finishing one ply using 100cl,

EFah 1 or 2
300cl, or 400cl

Ornamental Stitching
Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of
Fabric
Right Click &
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

Decorative Stitching using

OSa 1 to ?
100cl, 300cl, 400cl or 600cl

Decorative Stitching using

cording
OSb 1 or 2 Sometimes called "Pin-tuck"
with Cording
Using 304cl or 406cl stitch

Decorative Stitching
OSc 1 or 2 sometimes called "Pin-tuck"
Using 304cl or 406cl stitch

Tuck stitching with Cording

and Backer
OSd 2
using dual 101cl, 301cl, or
401cl stitch
 Side Tuck Stitching using
OSe 1
101cl, 301cl, or 401cl stitch

"Stitch-Crease" stitching using

OSf 2
301cl stitch

Self-Stripe Trim using 100cl,

OSg 2
300cl, or 400cl stitch

Piping Trim using 100cl, 300cl,

OSh 2
or 400cl stitch