CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

HANOI EDITION
MAY 2012

CA PHE
NH XUT BN LAO NG
 The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC

EDITORIAL
Contents wordhanoi.com

MAY 2012

DEBBIE CLARE PAOLO MALING

Managing Editor Art Director
debbie@wordhanoi.com paolo@wordhcmc.com

AARON JOEL SANTOS NGUYEN TAN LOC

Photo Editor Layout Designer
aaron@wordhanoi.com loc@wordhcmc.com

DOMINIC BLEWETT DOUGLAS PYPER

Staff Photographer Staff Writer
dominic@wordhanoi.com douglas@wordhanoi.com

HOA LE ISABELLA PIERANGELO 034 061

Staff Writer Intern
hoale@wordhanoi.com isabella@wordhanoi.com

KAITLIN REES NICK ROSS

Staff Writer Chief Editor & Deputy Director
kaitlin@wordhanoi.com nick@wordhanoi.com

ADMINISTRATION
DUONG VY BAO LE DANG PHUONG TRANG
General Director Chief Accountant
bao@wordhanoi.com accountant@wordhcmc.com

ADVERTISING
CHAU THI HUONG GIANG AartNGUYEN THUC DOAN HIEN 054 038 068
Sales Manager & Office Manager Graphic Designer
giang@wordhanoi.com hien@wordhcmc.com
004 l The Prelude FEATURES COLUMNS
SUBSCRIPTIONS
073 l Business Buff
hai@wordhanoi.com
THE TALK
For advertising enquiries please call Giang on 012 TRENDSPOTTER 076 l Destination Zero
+84 934 640668 or Bao on +84 902 361561 007 l The Big Five Slapstick silliness with HITS
086 l Food Buff
008 l Just In
Word would like to thank Giorgio and Thuy at Punto Italia, Rose Arnold, 030 Q&A
Natalie Krebs, Will Peach, Robert Stockdill, Kaustubh Mani Trivedi, Dr W B 094 l Cinema Buff
010 l Our Man Head in the clouds with VietJet Air
McNaull, JC Smith, Truong @ Bookworm, Nguyen Bao Ngoc, Le Thanh Nga,
Steve Jackson, Nguyen Tuan and, finally, the banh my trung. 098 l Book Buff
014 l The Exhibitionist 034 READY TO ROCK
Word is a registered Tt c hnh nh v ni dung trong
Who's rocking up to CAMA Festival 6 100 l Medical Buff
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any form without prior HaNoi) ca C.ty CP TMDVQCTruyn 022 l In the Papers For the love of coee
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C D E B U C K E T lut S Hu Tr Tu hin hnh ca nh
Going o-piste in Spain's capital city HO CHI MINH CITY
Word - Duong Huynh nc Cng Ha X Hi Ch Ngha 026 l Overscene
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Bin tp: H Phng Lan
Sa bn in: Nick Ross
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2 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 3

The Prelude
O
n a Saturday morning our sight like disgraced dogs, month we delve into the world CHUYN DU LCH, M THC
HANOI EDITION

last month at around and for the moment at least, of coffee and what it means not MAY 2012

6.30am, a massive,
enduring rumble
announced itself like a rude,
unexpected belch, and jolted
thousands of us out of our sleep.
That noise, that drone of the
Gods and hmm? of nature, was
what marked the beginning
of summer. Ever since that
insolent awakening, followed
by the years first mammoth
downpour, everything has
changed. The hibernation is over.
Were outside again. Our
washing takes minutes to
dry rather than days, our
were living with the novelty
of being warm again.
Hanoi in the summer. Its
great to have you back again.
Much changes in Hanoi
with the seasons. But one thing
those cold, dark days of winter
and those long, scorching days
of summer have no social
impact on is coffee.
Even during winter, the citys
cafes still dish out loads of those
two caffeine drinks of choice,
ca phe sua da and ca phe den da.
Acting almost as community
centres, comparable to places
just for Hanoi, but for Vietnam
as a whole.
If you are going to hit the
cafes and take advantage of
the free WiFi, then check out
our annual readership survey
(although you could always do
this from the comfort of your
home or office). We always
welcome feedback from our
readers, and this month were
going to reward you with a
whole smorgasbord of prizes
for the 15 minutes itll take you CA P
CA HE
PHE
to complete our feedback form
online. So go to www.wordhanoi.
NH XUT BN LAO NG

arms are getting burnt while of worship, its the caf that com and let us know what you
were waiting for the lights to we go to, regardless of the love, loathe and long for in your THIS MONTH'S COVER
change, our duvets, heaters weather. And paying homage monthly Word. And dont forget Photo: Aaron Joel Santos
and jackets are evicted from to this drink for all seasons, this the coffee. Design: DH Advertising

INBOX DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU

WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, PLEASE EMAIL
US AT nick@wordhanoi.com

SPREADING JAM
(Bass in your Face, Apr. 2012)
Oh yeah, almost forgot, The Nam Jam Collective (S.M.P), myself, and Luke Poulson all
have a mention in this months Word Ha Noi magazine 3-page article on dubstep in
Vietnam very stoked indeed!!! Andy

I wouldnt even wish for my
greatest enemy to be subjected
to this monstrous deformity of
music known as dub-step. The
only feasible time this dub-step
should acquire plaudits is during a
hostage situation, where the would-
be no-gooders are lambasted
for days on end with an endless
splurge of mechanical whirring
noises, cranks, and the choral
sounds of souls being trapped in
Hell for all eternity.
LOVING DUB-STEP
(Bass in your Face, Apr. 2012)
After a few hours these terrorists Even this, however, would most
would be uncertain as to whether probably have the same effect as
they are actually hearing music, A Clockwork Oranges Ludovico
or what seems like two garbage Technique, where the hostages
disposal trucks crash testing into themselves would prefer to
each other like a fraternity of experience a coronary heart attack,
bonobos during Spring Break. choosing to end their own lives by
jumping head first out of a building
rather than endure a second more
of this timeless misery.
Thus, dub-step is not even fit for killing terrorists, and as such should be made Designed for natural living
illegal by the World Police. Kyle

4 | Word May 2012

The Talk THE BIG 1 OLIVER TWIST
The American Drama Group-
Europe this month performs an
adaptation of the Charles Dickens
novel that first turned societys
eyes to the cruel treatment of
orphans in London in the mid 19th
century. Directors Paul Stebbings
and Phil Smith have dramatatised
THE BIG 5 / JUST IN / THE BUZZ / CALENDAR / OVERSCENE this classic, with an a capella score
from Thomas Johnson, to enliven
the already memorable characters
and explore how poverty and crime
are linked. A fun, family-friendly
musical that you dont want to miss.
Curtains go up at 8pm at Hanoi
Opera House on May 11 and May 12.
Tickets are VND600,000 for adults and
VND300,000 for students and can be

3
THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR THIS MONTH purchased at Hanoi Opera House, 1
Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem.

JEANS TEAM CHUYN DU LCH, M THC

HANOI EDITION

Berlins legendary electronic duo APRIL 2012

Jeans Team are coming to the

capital for one night of open-air
musical madness at the American
Club.
Jeans Team need no introduction to
anyone into floor-filling live dance music,
but for those who might have missed it,

Working Together
their contribution to 2 Many DJs As Heard

2 4
on Radio Soulwax was the outrageous turbo
pop of Keine Melodien, a track ironically
full of melodic goodness. Seven albums
into an iconic career, the boys from Berlin
THE HANOI FLEA MARKET are bringing their unique sound to Vietnam
Its back and this time its for the first time after spending some time
Cooperation and mutual awareness help create community bigger, better and more in Asia collaborating with Chinas most NH XUT BN LAO NG

bohemian. On May 6, over cutting edge electronic musicians.

WORD READERSHIP SURVEY

M
any years ago Mike (name
changed) was one of three
people who tried to create a pool
league. It started with two bars
coming together on a Wednesday night, both
sporting teams of seven, and playing once
a week either away or at home. Despite the
mutual support among certain quarters and
the intensity and excitement of the matches
themselves, the competition never quite took
off. Other bars looked at getting involved
quickly it looked like the league would go
from two teams to four. But the owners of
the new bars refused to play away matches.
They didnt want to lose revenue on a
Wednesday night. Within two months the
league ran out of steam and Mike decided to
call it a day.
Such scenarios are typical of Vietnam,
a country that, despite its inherent focus
on community, can often place priority on
losing the bar revenue once every
fortnight. Move up to Hanoi, unfortunately,
and the darts league there has been
dormant for years.
Keeping Up With The
Its not just in sport that co-operation, or the
lack of it, comes into play, but in business.
Lets take another typical situation.
Two downtown convenience stores
have been operating for years. They sell
imported goods anything from canned
and frozen foods through to fresh
vegetables, fruit, bread, confectionary and
more. But rather than working together and
finding a way for them to have different
product mixes, thus allowing each store
to provide a greater range of goods to the
market, they are in direct competition.
They miss out on one crucial point work
together and, as in the darts league, you can
Rivalry versus Cooperation
Now lets get this clear. Rivalry is a good
thing. Competition makes people try
to improve and pushes them to get the
upper hand. Its something that we have
experienced at Word, both in Hanoi and
in Ho Chi Minh City. But rather than
focusing on what them over there is doing
and emulating their product, we have
concentrated on ourselves. We do lament
the lack of cooperation with our supposed
rivals, but when one side refuses to play ball,
you have no alternative but to forge your own
path. And of course as a publication were
not immune to this ourselves there are
plenty of ways that we, and other community
resources could be working better together.
Last months arrival in Saigon of two
New York musical legends on the same
night Grandmaster Flash and Marky
Ramone was typical of how a lack of
100 vendors will gather on
the super green turf of the Au Co Football
Field to sell hand made goods, clothing,
accessories, home decor items, reading
materials, and lots of random collectibles.
This month's flea is a celebration of the
hippie and gypsy aesthetic of the 1960s and
1970s, as well as the commitment to peace,
nature and community. With a Summer
of Love theme, the flea market aims to be
more than a place to get your shopping
fix. Organisers have their sights on a
true festival feel, with music by local and
foreign musicians, a space for portraits and
temporary tattoos, and a mixture of great
food and drinks. Attendees are encouraged
to deck themselves out in bohemian wear to
contribute to the peace 'n luv atmosphere.
The Hanoi Flea Market is happening on May
6 on the Red River side of Au Co Football Field
at 264 Au Co, Tay Ho. The event runs from 9am
to 5pm. Arrive early as the last market had some
Support comes in the form of DJ Metro
Tokyo, flying in from China and Hanoi
favourite, Synergys DJ Cybersnack, for a
full evening of outdoor revelry.
The event takes place on May 12 at the
American Club, 19-21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem with drinks and tunes from 8pm. Check
www.cama-atk.com for more details.
survey in conjunction with market research
in return for filling in the survey we are
Comments, opinion and feedback, no
matter how good or bad, its what every
company or publication needs to help them
adjust and get things right.
So, to get a sense of how you, the reader,
feel about our publication, throughout May
were running our annual online readership
company Cimigo.
It takes just 15 minutes to complete and
its a chance for you to have your say. And
offering up a range of prizes. Your names
will be put in a, erm, conical hat and the
winners will receive anything from a two or
three-night stay at a boutique hotel through
to food and drink vouchers at some of the
citys leading restaurants.
So, to take part and to have a chance
to win these prizes, simply go to www.
wordhanoi.com and click on the top banner.

short-term gains over long-term value. And
yet when people do come together as
in Ho Chi Minh Citys darts league the
results are astounding. Now with three
divisions, 28 teams, annual sponsorship
from Tiger and well over 500 players, what
started off primarily as a foreigner sport
has now penetrated the local community
over half the darts players are Vietnamese.
And this is despite teams having to play
away from their designated bar thus
expand the market.
It comes to a head before Tet when one
of the stores buys a huge neon electric sign
with rotating text; a less complex version
of the kind you may see on hoardings in
huge stadiums. Within weeks the store next
door has purchased the same sign and has
tried to place it in a more visible position
than their neighbour. The animosity builds
higher as the Nguyens next door try to
emulate and better their rivals.
communication and cooperation can have
a negative effect. The first problem was
that they were in town on the same night,
thus forcing the community to make a
choice. But more importantly, the venues
missed out on an opportunity to market
the events together. Such a strategy would
have created a real buzz and would have
not only benefited the city as a whole, but
also both businesses. Unfortunately, it was
not to be.
5
shops sell out in the first few hours! And, as ever, a huge thanks!
EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL 2012
Fourteen movies far and ranging as the places ec.europa.eu for more details and
originating from 14 from which they come, all information about free tickets. On
different European movies will be screened at the Sunday, May 27, families with
countries will National Cinema Complex children can enjoy the children
delight movie from May 16 to May 27. short film programme starting
lovers in Hanoi as the annual Check out the Delegation at 6pm. The National Cinema
European Film Festival rolls of the European Union to Complex is located at 87 Lang
into town. With the genres as Vietnams website www.delvnm. Ha, Dong Da.

6 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 7

Just In
THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
The stakes have been raised in the
competition between international schools
in Hanoi, as building work for the newly
inaugurated International School of
Vietnam is now complete. Located to
the south of the city in Thanh Xuan and
following the IB Primary Years curriculum,
the school will eventually run classes all
the way from Kindergarten level up to
year 12, with an emphasis on mathematics,
science and music.
The impressive grounds boast two
indoor swimming pools, music and
performance areas, a gymnasium, a media
centre and even a dance studio. The school
is initially taking enrolments from Pre-
Kindergarten to Grade 5.
Contact Rosemary Song at rosemary.song@
tuanduc.com.vn or check www.isvietnam.org
THAI AS YOU MIGHT
Those whove been aching for more
Thai restaurant options in the city
will be pleased to hear theres a new
outlet in Hanoi. Gusto fuses authentic
Thai spices with hints of European
ingredients. With their chefs trained
in Thailand and Japan, Gusto offers
reasonable prices, an enviable central
location, and a promise of a very warm
welcome. Get yourself down there to
see how their fare fairs.
Gusto is located at 9 Phan Chu Trinh,
Hoan Kiem. For more information visit
www.letseat.at/gustothai call 3933 6353 or
email gusto.thai@yahoo.com
8 | Word May 2012
the talk
MODULE 7S
Here to save Vietnam from an Eastern
European style hangover of leopard print
leggings and see-through blouses is Module
7S. The new fashion brand features a range of
womens clothing and accessories, and is due
to hit Hanoi on May 5. The brand also has an
exclusive natural perfume on its books to help
you avoid the pesky smell of exhaust fumes.
If you are not too busy sipping margaritas
in celebration of Cinco de Mayo, visit their
showroom for their spring collection debut.
Check out their threads at their May 5 fashion
show from 6pm at the Module7 showroom, 83
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho or visit their website at www.
module7s.com
CHOI
Au Co is home to a new open-space dining
room, specialising in classic and modern
Vietnamese cuisine. With inspiring
artwork by Simon Redington, Choi is the
second venture of La Restaurants Wayne
Sjothun, offering a selection of best value
wines, a daily Carlsberg happy hour from
5pm to 7pm, and the option for an on-
request custom menu.
Choi is located at 15A Au Co, Tay Ho. Tel:
0913 221971 or email wsjothun@gmail.com for
more information
A NEW LOOK
Last month Sofitel Plaza re-launched itself in style with a fashion show from Franco-
Japanese label Kenzo. In the decadent surroundings of the newly refreshed Plaza Ballroom,
guests rubbed shoulders with celebrities and enjoyed live music, along with a startling
custom-built ice bar. With the renovations now complete, guests can enjoy the propertys
most significant overhaul since its grand opening in 2001, including a full renewal of the
hotels luxury accommodation, ballroom and business facilities; as well as inside-out
makeovers of its flagship Chinese restaurant and rooftop bar.
Sofitel Plaza Hanoi is located at 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh. For more information check out www.
sofitel.com/3553
THE LIONS SHARE
Lion City is a Singaporean restaurant with a
number of branches in Saigon that has now set up
shop in Hanoi. Specialties include such delights
as chicken curry, chilli crab, a range of laksas and
other dishes as well as everyones favourite, frog
porridge. Opened on Apr. 22 on Le Duan, the
establishment aims to bring Singapores signature
fusion cuisine to the capital.
Lion City is located at 92 Le Duan, Hoan Kiem.
For more info contact gm@gtc.vn
May 2012 Word | 9
 OUR MAN
BY STEVE JACKSON
HANOI BFB
(BEFORE FACEBOOK)
THE INTERNET HAD ALREADY BEEN
around for about ten years before I moved
to Vietnam, yet when I arrived here, it
had only just begun to impact on lives.
The bonus of email meant not having
to deal with the trials of the local postal
system, but it wasnt until three years had
passed that I attempted to use Skype to
call home. Despite always being a blogger,
the general idea of online networking back
then was still a couple of years away.
Back then, expats lived in little pockets
of the city with little knowledge about
what was going on outside of their social
sphere. As a volunteer, I had heard of
diplomats with their four-wheel drive
vehicles, their staff, and their swimming
pools, but Id never actually met one. I
had heard of a place called Ciputra, but
I thought of it as some kind of semi-
mythical kingdom beyond the city walls.
With my volunteer organisation banning
me from owning my own motorbike, I
occasionally took xe oms to far flung Tay
Ho, but quite frankly, I felt out of my
comfort zone and bia hoi budget.
I knew of teachers. I knew that after
10pm theyd appear in places like Half
Man Half Noodle. Seeing the same old faces
resulted in me thinking that there was only
a couple of dozen of them around.
Another group was the French. Like
the teachers, they went out late. They ate
as well as drank, but mostly they went to
French places so you didnt tend to bump
into them that often. Sometimes though,
10 | Word May 2012
youd meet a French-Canadian who
wasnt entirely sure which camp they were
supposed to belong to.
The cliquiest, and frankly weirdest,
group of them all was the Ultimate Frisbee
players. I met a group on Christmas
Eve and within an hour they had all
individually told me that Ultimate Frisbee
could save the world.
We drank in bars that someone in
our circle of friends had introduced us
to someone who knew about the place
because theyd been in Hanoi a while.
People whod been here a while were Gods.
They knew where to find things. They
could take you to the Russian Shop to buy
winter clothes, they knew a lady at the
market who didnt overcharge foreigners,
they knew where to take you for a fry-
up in a caf that even had baked beans.
Occasionally someone knew someone who
knew someone else who was opening a
new place, and wed all turn up.
Beyond word of mouth there was of
course marketing back then. Marketing in
the form of posters with little tear off tags.
Maps were on paper. I carried a torn
tourist map that included Hoan Kiem and
a small corner of West Lake, and I have
to admit that was pretty much my world.
Printed maps have no zoom out feature.
Now, though, I feel that despite the
availability of information on review sites,
blogs, Twitter and Facebook, I not only
know more people, I also know their lives.
A couple of chance meetings and youre
WE ARE NOW OPEN
AT 6T HAM LONG
The new Hanoi Gourmet shop is open at 6T Ham
Long offering a large selection of wine, cheese, deli
products, chocolates, biscuits, etc.
We also remain open at our 1B Ham Long address
with all the usual high quality products as well as
lunch and dinner table service.
HOAN KIEM
LAKE
E
US
H
TRANG TIEN HO ERA
PHAN CHU TRIN
ERA P
OP ON O
M NGO QUYEN
ILT
H
Tel: 3943 1009
YEN
HU
NT
HA
E: info@hanoigourmet.com
I
HANG BA
HAM LONG
www.hanoigourmet.com
NGO THI NHA
1B
DUC
U
HU
N
LO
VA
LE
followed or friended, and with that
comes a view into other worlds. Snapshots
of other groups some who brunch, others
who bike, some who do amateur dramatics
or take pictures of the street food they eat.
As per the Facebook function that
suggests people to friend based on mutual
acquaintances, you can find yourself
chatting to someone and then realise this is
actually the first time youve met in person.
Meanwhile back in the day, 99 percent of
printed newspapers were in Vietnamese.
Those publications that were online made
you actually go to their site to read them.
You couldnt stumble across a link between
pictures of drunken friends on networking
sites.
Looking back, I have to say: ignorance
was bliss. While technology has given us
a great deal, it has in turn taken away an
element of mystery. I think foreigners often
find the behaviour of fellow foreigners
embarrassing. Now that we know more
people and we know how they live, that
capacity is increased.
In the end, I think we arrived here because
on some level were all travellers as much
as we hate that label. Some may travel light
and cheaply, others may need that expat
package to finance spouses, kids, schools
and healthcare but were all adventurers
to some level.
The question is: if we now have the
technology to meet everyone, to solve all the
mysteries and to answer all the questions -
is there any adventure left?
May 2012 Word | 11
TREND SPOTTER
ABOUT A GIRL
In the latest play to raise the curtain for Hanoi International
Theatre Society (HITS), The Girl from Maxims is a slapstick
comedy of errors that follows the story of a doctor and a
showgirl. Kaitlin Rees talks to the plays director, Joe Ruelle
In three sentences, what is The Girl from
Maxim's about?
Ill do it in one: France, the old days, a girl, a
drunken night and a whole lot of sorting out
to do in the morning.
Why this play?
I think its one of the five funniest comedies
ever written, and Ive read many. Sometimes
with Shakespeare the characterisation is so
good that it gets in the way if I can dare
say that of the laughs. Feydeau finds
this wonderful balance between brilliant
characterisation and necessary lightness. Also
its perfect for Hanoi: adult friendly, child
friendly, native speaker friendly and not-quite-
so-sure-about-the-English-language-in-general
friendly.
How would you define the word naughty?
I wouldnt. I would pinch your bum then
stare innocently out the window.
What was naughtiness like at the time of the
play's setting in early 19th century France?
It feels like there was something loveable
about it. Im not sure quite what that means
or how it reflects changes in Western culture
12 | Word May 2012
since, but without being an expert or having
been there, it does seem people were more
forgiving of each others vices. Perhaps out of
necessity.
How does this compare to naughtiness in
Hanoi today?
Its similar in many ways. Much of the
humour in the play is based on factors
common to modern Vietnamese society:
tangled relationship webs, strong family
pressures, a city-countryside divide, the
presence of certain illicit services and so on.
Its also very well-behaved in its naughty
little way, which I think describes Hanoi.
I've heard your new book, Nguoc Chieu
Vun Vut is funny, and you picked a funny
play. How would you define your sense of
humor? Has it changed since you've lived in
Vietnam?
Yeah, well, thanks. Humour writing is
freakish. By the time your piece gets
published the humour has been so dissected,
mutilated, sewn together, then dissected
and mutilated again by yourself in the
basement that you begin to see it as
disgusting. So comments like that are nice to
hear, even if passed on.
I dont know about my precise sense of
humour. My book signings have been well
attended by twenty-year-old girls in black-
rimmed glasses, so that might be a clue. I
think its sensitive, a bit nerdy and with some
noticeable tension in the lower intestinal
region.
Much of Vietnamese humour is of the see-
touch-hear-smell variety, but recently theres
been a backlash. The result is a generational
humour gap much wider than back home.
Being aware of this, Ive tried to develop a
crossover style by using very Vietnamese
references in a decidedly abstract manner.
What, in your opinion, is the thing to most
look forward to in the show?
The full frontal nudity. Just kidding. Once
that has finished and we let the audience
in, then what I look forward to most is
the simple allure of good actors tracing an
ingenious script. (It is a family friendly show,
honest.) The comedy is very clockwork, and I
get off on the ticks.
How old are you?
Please take this card. On it you will find
my date of birth, marital status, monthly
salary, thoughts on arm hair, general opinion
of Vietnamese women, general opinion of
Vietnamese food, frequency of trips back
home, and availability for escort-related
enquires.
Festival partners Media partners
The Girl From Maxims will be shown at the Nha
Hat Kich (behind Hanoi Opera House), 1 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem. It will run from Friday May
25 to Sunday Jun. 3 (Doors, 8pm) with matinee
performances on Sunday May 27 and Sunday
Jun. 3 (Doors, 2.30pm). The preview will be on Festival sponsors
p
Thursday May 24.
May 2012 Word | 13
The Exhibitionist
the talk

FESTIVAL OF IDEAS
Bookworm is the place to keep your eye
on this month with its Festival of Ideas
packing a tight line up of local talent. Every
Wednesday of the month sees a different
A FRENCHROSPECTIVE face from Hanoi's creative pool, sharing
French independent artist Arno Baude will some of their work. Contributors include
be exhibiting his latest work Hanoiians at La artist Vu Kim Thu (May 9), George Burchet
4uatrieme this month. This ongoing series (May 16), and author Suzi Garner (May 23).
of photographs was launched in Hanoi The festival will also hold an additional
in 2007 and is formed of a social group event at Chula on May 19, where owner GOING DIGITAL
wearing Hawaiian shirts as a uniform. Diego will speak about design and fashion If youve always wanted to create your own digital tools for
Gathering together men and women from (with complimentary cake and bubbly!). interactive art installations and experiences, get yourself down
different nationalities, Hanoiians deals with Listen out for announcements for events to ETE on May 12 and May 13, for a workshop in open-source
the themes of cultural identity, territories featuring musician Tri Minh and artist Jamie electronics prototyping. Arduino is a platform based on flexible,
and migration flows. Maxton-Graham. easy-to-use hardware and software, intended for artists, designers,
To find out more about Arno Baudes work, Bookworm is located at 44 Chau Long, Ba hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or
visit www.arnobaude.com La 4uatrieme can Dinh. The Wednesday evening talks all start at environments.
be found on the 4th floor of ETE Bar, 95 Giang 7.30pm. Chula is located at 6 Ven Ho Tay, Tay The workshop takes place from 11am to 4pm. La 4uatrieme can be found
Van Minh, Ba Dinh Ho and the May 19 event starts at 10.30am. on the 4th floor of ETE Bar, 95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh. For more
CATCH A GLIMPSE information about the event and how to participate, contact Carol on Tel:
The latest solo exhibition by musician
and artist William P. Badger will open
SCREEN FREE 01684 191813 or visit la4uatrieme.blogspot.com
Cinephiles of Hanoi! DOCLAB is showing
this month in the authentic Italian
screenings of quality films on Thursdays
restaurant surroundings of Luna
and Fridays throughout May for free! This
dAutunno. With a live soundtrack by
month the offerings include The Gleaners
Vietnamese electronic music pioneer
and I (May 4), Chronicle of a Summer (May
Tri Minh, the launch on May 4 will
18), Project 35 (May 10) and Art in the
introduce the show, entitled Fleeting
Auditorium (May 24). In addition to the film
Glimpses, described by William as an
screenings, the centre offers courses and
amalgamation of images from 15 years
workshops in Vietnamese, a video library
ago or yesterday, during my life and
and collection of student films.
times in Hanoi. If you cant make it to
To confirm the screening schedule, email
the opening event, the work will be on
hanoidoclab@gmail.com and visit www.
display until Jul. 4.
hanoidoclab.org for more information. Hanoi
Luna DAutunno, 78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan
DOCLOB is located in the Goethe Institut
Kiem. The opening event starts at 6.30pm.
Hanoi at 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh

LACQUERING IT UP
Now open on for business is a new
lacquer school and exhibition space,
featuring the works of Tran Anh Tuan
artist and professor at the Hanoi
University of Industrial Fine Art
and member of the Vietnam Fine Art
Association Hanoi. The new school
offers students the opportunity to learn
QUARTERLY LOVE
This month The Goethe Institut brings to the Opera House two
the traditional Asian lacquer art, using
concerts by award-winning German ensemble Notos Quartet. This
components such as mother of pearl, gold
acclaimed quartet, which plays violin, viola, violoncello and piano,
and silver leaf and eggshell. There will
will present works by Mozart, Turina and Brahms. Recognised
also be visiting Vietnamese artists and
internationally for their intelligent and fresh interpretations, the
day trips to art villages.
group has become renowned for transferring their love of music to
The school is located at 5, 2/9 Lane 9 Dang
the audience.
Thai Mai, Tay Ho. For more information call
The shows take place at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
0988 082447 / 0949 812314 or email info@
at 8pm on May 9 and May 10. Tickets are free but you must reserve in
lacquer-art.com / elkeritter@hotmail.com
advance by contacting tiket@jakarta.goethe.org.

14 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 15

The Buzz
the talk

HAPPY DAYS
Werent you just saying how your happy
hour spot was getting boring? Well,
retract that statement. Mvenpick Hotel is
now offering a happy hour encouraging
you to Linger Longer at Lounge 83.
Their signature drinks, including a Chili
Passion Martini and Cinnamon Appletini,
are sure to perk you up after a long day of
nine to five.
Mvenpick Hotel presents its happy hour
every Monday to Friday from 5pm to 7pm at
83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
- Authentic Indian Cuisine Serving both North & South Indian dishes
MAY DE VILLE - Cozy & Ambient setting - Halal Food - Free Home Delivery
Dreading a visit from the in-laws this summer? The May De Ville City Center is running - Indoor Party facilities & Outdoor catering services
an enticing promotion that is sure to solve all family woes: the longer you stay, the - For details contact Gopi 0903 266 997
bigger the discount on hotel rooms. All rooms include daily breakfast, bottled water and Or Ms Dung 093 657 2277
free Wi-Fi.
May de Ville City Center is offering discounts including stay two nights pay for one and a Add: 47 Lo Su Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi
half, stay three nights pay for two, and finally a stay more than four, receive 30 percent off. Tel: (84 4) 3935 2400/01 Email: Info@namastehanoi.com
Drop by at 24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung or contact the hotel on 2222 9988 Fax: (84 8) 3935 2402 Website: www.namastehanoi.com

CADDIED AWAY
The Novotel Phan Thiet close to Mui Ne
is kicking off the summer season with a
promotional package for all the family.
Costing just VND4,495,000 for mum, dad HE SAYS SHE SAYS
and the kids, spend three nights at the Turns out it really is all about who you
four-star resort and enjoy a daily American know, or more likely, who knows you! The
buffet breakfast, special golf rates on top consumer information company in
the Ocean Dunes Golf Course and a free the world, Nielsen, has just released their
30-minute oil massage for mum. You could, survey on Global Trust in Advertising.
of course, forgo all that and relax by the Results are in and 92 percent of consumers
resorts two swimming pools or take to its say that they trust word of mouth or
well-shaded, private beach. recommendations from friends and family
Offers are valid from Jun. 1 to Aug. 31, 2012. above all other advertising.
Contact the Novotel Phan Thiet for more info. Read the whole survey on their website at
Tel: 062 382 2393 www.nielsen.com

ROASTING THE OPPOSITION

The jog around West Lake not cutting it
anymore? Fed up with the high-jinks of
the Hash House Harriers? Then you need
the Rostaing Mongolian Trophy in your
life. From Aug. 26 to Sep. 3, up to 180
participants will be forming teams in order
to race each other around Altai; a massif on
the border of Russia and China which is a
good 1,250 miles west of Ulan Bator. The
teams will be trekking on glaciers, horse
riding through plains, white water rafting,
mountain biking, hiking and running in
order to satisfy their thirst for adventure.
See www.rostaingmongolia.com for more
details. Entry is VND52.5 million per person

16 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 17

HANOI
TANNOY
What are you, like, the
ant whisperer now?
You look like something
straight out of a
Botticelli
I had an amazing
conversation the other
day... with a crow!
I'd definitely let him read
me a story
With your glasses you're
Clark Kent, but without
them, you're superman.
Can you fly?
Of all the people he
could have crashed into,
he had to crash into a
ninja
Seven dollars for
CHEESE?
My friend refers to you
as an English sandwich
What is it with all these
false rumours about the
economy in this city?
I know who it is. He even
admitted it to me!
18 | Word May 2012
GOING MEXICAN
AmCham members and friends
are invited to celebrate Cinco
de Mayo on May 4 at Dons
restaurant, Tay Ho. Cinco de
Mayo marks the anniversary
of Mexico's Battle of Puebla in
1862 when a fledgling Mexican
army defeated invading
French forces. With celebratory
margarita, sangria, nachos,
enchiladas, tacos, quesadillas,
tamales as well as other
Mexican-themed goodness, this
looks set to be the most popular
date in the AmCham diary.
The event takes place from
6.30pm to 8.30pm on May 4 at
Dons, 16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho. For more information email
thuy@amchamhanoi.com or visit
www.amchamhanoi.com
THE FOUR-DAY WEEKEND
How many of you agree that
every weekend should be
four days? Highway 4 seems
to agree and throughout the
month of May they are offering
an extended happy hour on
Bia Ha Noi and Bia Sai Gon on
Friday and Monday. Enjoy a 50
percent discount between 5pm
and 7pm, meaning each bottle
is just VND14,000. Its definitely
WAY OUT THERE time for the four-day weekend to
If youre looking for that perfect spot to host your business catch on.
meetings and extravaganzas, look no further than the Crowne Plaza Highway 4 restaurants can be
West Hanoi. The hotel is offering all visiting businesses exclusive found at the following locations:
upgrades in club rooms and full club benefits, including breakfast, 5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem; 575 Kim
cocktails, and access to a private lounge and meeting rooms. Ma, Ba Dinh; 31 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Crowne Plaza West Hanoi is located at 36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh. For Ho; 25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem and 54
more information visit www.crowneplazawesthanoi.com or Tel: 6270 6688 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung.
DELICIOUS DEALS
Want to go wine tasting? Want to eat an Aussie
steak wrapped in bacon? Well Matchboxs newest
venture, Delicious Wine Shop and Restaurant,
is offering wine tasting every Saturday night.
If you dont get too distracted by the vino, they
also have a gourmet menu which includes their
Aussie Scotch fillet steak wrapped in bacon, for
under VND200,000. Sounds like were headed
down to Food Street.
Wine tasting takes place every Saturday night from
6pm to midnight. Vouchers cost VND180,000 and
get you five glasses of wine. Delicious Wine Shop and
Restaurant is located at 14 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
IN THE SUMMERTIME
As summer approaches, diners
in Hanoi are no doubt feeling
more than ready to once again
sit outside and enjoy food with
friends on a breezy balcony. So,
its timely that Au Lac do Brazil
is providing a truly Brazilian
atmosphere with special offers
throughout the whole of May.
Lucky groups of five or more
adults will receive a free
bottle of Yali National Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon 2010; a
highly palatable Chilean wine
guaranteed to gets tongues
waggling.
Au Lac do Brazil is located at
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. See
www.aulacdobrazil.com for more
details
SOMETHING TO
SMILE ABOUT
Anyone traveling
south to Ho Chi
Minh City at the
end of the month
should take note that
one of Vietnams best
known charities will be
holding their annual Gala
on May 26. An evening to
benefit Operation Smile will
include an art auction, silent
auction and lucky draw. Gather
up a group of ten for a table and
land a gold sponsorship. Hanoians
who cant make it down south, dont
worry, Operation Smile is in the process of
planning a Hanoi Gala as well.
The Operation Smile Benefit Gala will be
held at the Park Hyatt Saigon on May 26
For information please contact
huongtra.ho@operationsmile.org
WIRED
SWEATING
IT OUT
Sweat-Working is a perplexing
trend which has been erupting
in boardrooms and offices
throughout Los Angeles,
New York, London, and more
recently, Singapore and Hong
Kong. The idea is to replace the
SUMMER SCHOOL normal business networking
Hanoi International Kindergarten will host their summer school events, heavy with food and
from Jun. 18 to Aug. 3. Morning and all-day classes are available,
complete with field trips, water activities, snacks and lunches. All
drink, with active events that
focus on improving not only
children aged from 14 months to 7 years are welcome and a bus
service is also available. mind, but body as well. Gone are
If you (or your children) are interested, email contact@hik.edu.vn or the days of wining and dining
call 3719 1248. clients to bounce around ideas.
The gym is now the place to do
GET GORGE WITH GEORGE
business.
For those of you who always open your wardrobe
doors hoping for new clothes to magically appear,
The original Sweat-Working was
they wont. But, you can restock your wardrobe by
high-tailing it to Georges. With the latest spring a community created in New
trends and shoes now on display, its up to you to York City by Sarah Siciliano.
catch them while they last. Georges now also has Her online blog sweat-working.
an in-store tailor, so alterations can be taken care of
com documents the activities,
immediately.
classes and experiences of the
Georges is located at 36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho.
craze. The site is full of shout-
Tel: 3718 6233
outs from clients, tips on yoga
or spinning and other strenuous
activities which suddenly make
the gym seem like an even more
powerful place. Health conscious
business types can log on to
explore the detox tricks, health
tips and resistance boosting
recipes that like-minded
individuals have posted.
From the ether to reality,
the fad has gone global.
International gyms are creating
learn and burn seminars, where
you pick up business tips as well
as a work out. If Sweat-Working
catches on in our neck of the
woods, itll be a great way to
see old business friends orbiting
throughout Hanoi, and to throw
out some business cards to
potential new acquaintances.
All that business aside, who
wouldnt want to see their co-
worker in some spinning shorts?
Check out the Sweat-Working
blog for ideas and inspiration at
www.sweat-working.com
TOP I TOYS, THEREFORE I AM
Modern toys for kids young and
EPIC VOLLEY

TWEETS
old are now available through
How many hours of volleyball
the Asia-Pacific Commercial
can you sit through? Test your
Investment Joint Stock Company
limits over four days at the
(APEC). The names not child
Mekong River International
friendly but the toys are, and
School Associations junior
WORLDVIEWS2012 the state-of-the-art I Toys are
volleyball tournament. Eight
Loving the great articles by @ available at the new showroom
international schools from Laos,
wordvietnam Thanks for being in Hanoi. To celebrate the
Thailand and Cambodia will
opening, there will be 10 to
a great source of info about come to Vietnam and show their
20 percent discounts on offer
Hanoi! #WVP from May 25 until Jun. 1 on
skills at the UNIS campus.
12 Apr Hanoi International School
choo choo trains and child size
will be hosting the MRISA Junior
megalopolises.
Volleyball Tournament from May
PETERADAMSMITH The APEC showroom is located
10 to May 13 at the UNIS campus.
@WordVietnam have been at 14 Tran Dien, Thanh Xuan. Tel:
For more information visit www.
enjoying your work online for 3827 1884 or check out www.apec-
hisvietnam.com
itoys.com for more details
a while, and now I've found
you on Twitter. Thanks for
updates/insights.
12 Apr

RIDICALICE
Just looked at this months @
WordVietnam. After 27 months
in Hanoi I have FINALLY made
it into a Scene photo. I feel
complete.
7 Apr
WORD VIETNAM
Steve, ok, we're a tasty
proposition. But you're
supposed to sell the
baguettes, mate, not the
magazine stand. @ourman @
TheCartFood #Hanoi
4 Apr
THECARTFOOD
@WordVietnam Waiting for
product placement in the next
issue. Subtle inclusion of the
footlong sub.
4 Apr
HENNO KOTZ
@WordVietnam I seem to be
your first follower, but surely
not the last!
31 Mar
ANNALISE WILD
@wordvietnam you are going
to be bombarded with model
wannabes!
14 Mar
TNH VIETNAM
@WordVietnam if I had 100k
for every time someone sent
us a CV because we have a
jobs section...
10 Mar
HEADING TO NHA TRANG
Another member of the
Novotel branch, Novotel
Nha Trang, is offering three
tempting promotions to try
and tempt you away from
Hanoi for a few days. When
you stay three nights but
only have to pay for two it
PECHAKUCHA definitely makes you feel less
There is little we could say in terms of advertising to make guilty about skipping work
PechaKucha more successful than it currently is. But its still worth on Monday. Make the most
shouting about. The fourth installment of this storytelling/information of the three-day getaway and
and idea-sharing forum is coming up on May 17. This will be the last indulge in a mani/pedi or
one until September, so if you're one of those people who says, I'll just body massage/facial to scrub
catch the next one, this is the one to catch. For those who haven't yet and polish you up.
been, PechaKucha is a night of informal presentations consisting of 20 From May 1 to May 21 you can
slides per presenter, with just 20 seconds per slide. Hanoi is one of 432 combine a body massage and facial
cities worldwide that host this event. or a manicure and pedicure for
Hanoi PechaKucha Night #4 is on May 17 at the Cinematheque, 22A VND1,500,000. Stay three nights
Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Doors open at 6pm with presenters starting and just pay the price of two
at 8pm. Tickets are VND50,000 and free for students with valid ID. from Apr. 17 to Jun. 30. Contact
To learn more about PechaKucha, visit www.pecha-kucha.org or email Novotel Nha Trang for more
pechakuchahanoi@gmail.com details. Tel: 058 625 6900
THE CROWN JEWELS
If youve been aching to find a way to hang
out at the British Ambassadors residency,
your opportunity has arrived. The British
Business Group Vietnam together with the
British Ambassador, Dr Antony Stokes,
will host a cocktail party for the British
community on Jun. 7 to celebrate the
Queens Diamond Jubilee. Its strictly a
guest list affair, so to apply for a ticket
send your name and contact details to
HanoiQDJ@fco.gov.uk before 5pm on May 16.
The public draw for tickets will be held on
May 23 and the winners informed by May 25.
Successful guests should collect their tickets
from the British Embassy in Hanoi before Jun. 1.
AND BREATHE
A heads up to all Yogis
Zenith is switching up its
schedule with the seasons.
If youve been falling asleep
during your yoga classes,
yawn no more as Zenith is now
GET AWAY offering the chance to learn how
Reliable travel company Exotissimo is rolling out a plethora to belly dance. Also, make sure
of promotions all valid from May. From Phu Quoc or Hoi An you check out their schedule
to Sapa and Bac Ha, theres something for everyone. The less for more events in May, such
adventurous can even get involved in Hanoi by partaking in as a Mai Chau Retreat and a
spiritually uplifting Tai Chi or yoga classes at the Metropole selection of workshops.
before undoing their good work with a lobster lunch. Belly Dancing classes will take
Exotissimo has branches all over Hanoi including the main place on Tuesdays at 6.30pm.
branch at 26 Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. To see a list of their Zenith Yoga, 3rd Floor, 111 Xuan
promotions, visit www.exotissimo.com or pop into one of their Dieu, Tay Ho. Check out www.
branches. Alternatively you can email tnd@exotissimo.com or zenithyogavietnam.com for more
xuandieu@exotissimo.com information
WIGGLE IT
Apsara Dance Studio is
expanding to a second location
in the salubrious surroundings
of the Hanoi Academy. Children
of all ages can now take belly
dancing and fitness classes
from qualified and certified
Vietnamese and international
instructors, all within the
Ciputra compound.
Apsaras new studio is
located at Hanoi Academy, Gate
3, D45-D46 Ciputra.
Find out what classes are
available by registering at
apsarastudio@gmail.com or
checking out www.apsarastudio.
com.vn

20 | Word May 2012

In the Papers
the talk

THE BEST OF THE VIETNAMESE PRESS

GOOGLE, FACEBOOK TO HAVE REP OFFICES IN VIETNAM?

Google and Facebook may have to open representative offices in Vietnam to provide
their services locally, if the Vietnamese communication ministrys latest draft decree gets
approved.
Under the draft decree announced by the Ministry of Information and Communication,
foreign businesses providing cross-border public information for a majority of users in
Vietnam will have to establish representative offices here.
The businesses are also required to make pledges in writing to cooperate with local
authorities in removing information that violates Vietnamese laws, including anything that
is against the authorities, damages social and national security and promotes violence.
A VIETNAMESE MAN BUYS AMERICAN TOWN FOR
US$900,000
The town of Buford, Wyoming population one was sold for
US$900,000 to an unidentified buyer from Vietnam last month after
an 11-minute Internet auction that attracted worldwide interest.
The tiny Western town garnered online viewers and bidders from
46 countries for the sale of four hectares of land with a convenience
store, gas station and modular home located in south-eastern
Wyoming.
The buyer, who wished to remain anonymous, flew to Wyoming
from Vietnam for a purchase he likened to the American dream.
Owning a piece of property in the US has been my dream, the
buyer said in a statement.

TSUNAMI WARNING STATIONS OPEN

SALARY BUMP FOR STATE EMPLOYEES
The minimum monthly salary for state employees will rise by
26 percent to VND1.05 million starting May 1, according to a
new decree.
The minimum salary will apply for employees in government
organisations and one-member limited companies owned by
the state. The previous rate, VND830,000, has been in place
since last May.
Tsunami warning stations will be built in coastal areas and
islands with large populations in 13 provinces and cities,
according to a project that has just been approved.
In the 2013 to 2014 period, the system will be developed in
Danang and the provinces of Quang Nam, Quang Ngai, Binh
Dinh, Phu Yen, Khanh Hoa and Ninh Thuan.
In the following years, additional stations will be set up in Ha
Tinh, Quang Binh, Quang Tri, Thua-Thien Hue, Binh Thuan and
Ba Ria-Vung Tau Provinces.
The Global Physics Institute in Hanoi is responsible for
monitoring and analyzing the information collected from the
stations and is the sole agency responsible for issuing tsunami
watch decisions.
CABBY SCAMMED INTERPOL, JAILED FOR FIVE YEARS
Last month a court in Hanoi sentenced 23-year-old Pham Van Xam
to five years behind bars on charges of theft and illegally taking
the private property of others. Xam ripped off two Singaporean
Interpol delegates on a ride to the 80th Interpol Assembly meeting in
Hanoi last October.
The victims were forced to pay VND6 million for a ride of just
10km that should have been only VND150,000.
Xam was arrested on Nov. 6 by nearly a dozen police while he
was harvesting coffee in remote Dak Nong Province in the Central
Highlands.

22 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 23

MAY CALENDAR To have your event included in our calendar, please email
isabella@wordhanoi.com by no later than May 17 with a
description of the event and a high-res photo

MON TUE W
WED THU FRI SAT SUN
Jazz Trio @ Dons every Friday Night on the Terrace @ Dialogues with the Walls photo
01 Hanoi Speakers @ Koto 6.45pm
45pm 02
0 2 Festival of Ideas and
Writing @ Bookworm every
Wri
03 Thursday 8.30pm 04 Press Club 5pm to 12am 05 exhibition @ Lespace 6pm 06
May Day DJ Extravaganza @ Rooftop
ooftop Wednesday 7.30pm to 9pm
Wed The Gleaners And I @ DocLab 6pm
john McGowans Fleeting Glimpses Emperors Night Concert @ Workers Theatre
9pm
House beats @ exhibition @ Luna May 4 and 5, 8pm
Funky Fusion Jazz
Fu
quartet @ Dons every
qua ATK dAutunno 6.30pm Oven-free baking Module 7S Launch
Ladies Gaelic
Wednesday 8.30pm AmCham Cinco de Mayo Fiesta @ Dons class @ Kitchen Art Party @ Module 7 Hanoi Flea
FFootball training @
6.30pm to 8.30pm 2.30pm showroom 6pm Market @ 264
football field (opp.
fo
AAlley 9), Dang Thai
Alle Yoga in the Pagoda @ Hoang An Pagoda Bad Mamasan Heavy Arno Baude Au co, 9am to
DJ Vaughan @ Hotel Woodstock
Mai, 7.30pm with Zenith Yoga every Wednesday 7am Metal @ Hanoi Rock Exhibition Opening @ 5pm
ATK 8pm @ Hanoi Rock City
City 8pm La 4uatrieme, ETE
07
07 08
8 Jo Ha Kyu By 09 10 Project 35 @ DocLab 3pm 11 QBIK @ Hanoi Rock City 12 Jeans Team @ American Club 13 Noi Hanoi @ CAMA ATK
8pm
Nguyen Trinh
Thi & Jamie Straight No Mixer & Inklings @ ATK 8pm
Kids Cooking Class @ Hanoi Cooking
Maxtone-Graham Free cocktails for women @ La Fee Centre Saturday May 12 and 26, 3.30pm
Cen ASVELIS weekend market @ AVELIS YARD
Margarita
Margar Night Exhibit @ The Verte Hotel de lOpera every Thursday every Saturday and Sunday 9.30am to
Oliver Twist @ 12.30pm
@ Dons
Don 5pm Japan Foundation 6pm to 9pm Baking Class @ Kitchen Art
Hanoi Opera
to 10pm Center for Cultural 2.30pm
House May 11,
Exchange in
11am & 8pm and
Vietnam, Apr 25 to
Notos Quartet Concert @ Hanoi Opera Thirsty Thursday 2 for 1 @ Press Club every May 12, 8pm Synergy House Sessions @
Sy
May 25
House May 9 and May 10, 8pm Thursday 6pm to 9pm Hanoi Rock City

14 15 Baking Class @ Kitchen

Art 6pm
16 Screening of the documentary
All Tomorrows Parties @ CAMA
17 18 19
1 9 Synergy Live Show @
Hanoi Rock City
20
2 0 Beer and
nd Bur
Burger
gger Sund
SSundays
ATK 8.30pm Sub Elements @ ATK 8pm @ Southgate every Sunday
Argentine Tango Wine tasting @ A Chula
Class @ Thanh Cong Pilates Teacher
An Opera Mozart: Delicious Wine Morning with
Secondary School Training Course @
Hanoi every Saturday Bookworm @
every Monday, Le Nozze di Zenith Yoga May
Speakers Chronicle of 6pm to 12pm Chula 10.30am
Wednesday and Friday Figaro @ Luna 18 to May 21
@ Koto a Summer @
8 to 10pm dautunno 8.30pm Pierre Dutot & Dominique Skorny
6.45pm
p Doclab 6pm
Piano/Trumpet Concert @ LEspace Everyones a DJ @ ATK 8pm
8pm

21 hibition
ibition
Exhibition 22
2 2 Future Lounge
with DJ Cache
23 24
24 Symphony concert, Hanoi
Opera House 8pm
25 Movie Night @ Lespace every
Friday 8pm
26 Crystal Healing Workshop @
Zenith Yoga
27 Live music every weekend
@ Dons
Shining
S ing Night @ Rooftop every Skank the Tank @ Hanoi Rock City
@ Vietnamese
etnamese Tuesday 9pm
Womens
Wo ns Museum Synergy The Girl From Baking Class JC from Hanoi
Ma
Mar until
til June 06 Nights with Maxims @ Nha Hat @ Kitchen Art Sessions @
Art in the DJ Kulture @ Kich May 24 and 2.30pm ATK 8pm The Girl From
Auditorium ATK 8pm May 25, 8pm Maxims @
Ladies Night
@ Doclab Simple Plan Nha Hat Kich
Belly dance @ Zenith @ Taboo every
3pm DJ Nights @ Southgate every Friday MTV Exits Saturday and
Yoga every Tuesday
Yog Wednesday
and Saturday 9pm Concert @ My Sunday 2pm
6.30pm to 7.30pm 8.30pm
Dinh Stadium

28 29
2 9 Baking class @ Kitchen
Art 6pm
30 Poker Night @ Play Gaming
Lounge every Wednesday 8pm
31 The Girl From Maxims @ Nha
Hat Kich 8pm
Subscription
Concert Free Flights and SUCCESS
S
Hanoi Pub Quizzers @ R&R Tavern
Vol 51. @ Vietnamese Bites Wine Rock
R
every Tuesday 9.30pm to 11.30pm
Hanoi Opera Lessons @ tasting @ electro
House May Puku every Southgate cconcert @
28 & 29, Here and There Band @ Dons Wednesday every LEspace
L
8pm every Monday and Tuesday 8.30pm 7pm to 9pm Wednesday Auditorium
Au
6pm to 10pm 8pm

24 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 25

 SCENE
NABY
The yoot found out what reggae and souls
all about when Naby brought his Senegalese
soul train to the Youth theatre

OVER

PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC

HANOI SOUNDSTUFF FESTIVAL
Lovers of all things electronic got
messy on the dance floor under pulsing
dub-step bass lines, and some of
Europes freshest beats

COMMUNE
Creative types of all stripes
celebrated the opening of the
new office/workstation cum caf/
bar space on the shimmery east
shores of West Lake

TADIOTO
Hes done it again - one of

PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

hanois most popular bars
PHOTOS BY NICK ROSS

(complete with popular bar

owner) is back! Glasses clinked,
cheers were proclaimed and
many heads were very sore the
next morning.
PHOTOS BY NGUYEN BAO NGOC

HANOI TRIATHLON
And the winner is! ... blood, sweat and tears were
all shed in the fight to the finish at the Red River
Runners' Hanoi Triathlon

PROVIDED BY RED RIVER RUNNERS

SOFITEL PLAZA RELAUNCH
Celebrities, media and lovers of free cake
and wine enjoyed the latest offerings from
trendy fashion label Kenzo. The five-star was
launching its new makeover
26 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 27
Insider
THE FOURTH AIRLINE / THE DREAMWEAVER / READY TO ROCK
PHOTO BY LIZO GLENNARD

The Fourth Airline
With operations commencing last December, VietJetAir provides a budget
alternative for air travel in Vietnam. But can they succeed where others have
failed? Nick Ross spoke to deputy general director Pritam Singh about the
challenges of setting up an airline. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly
How and why was VietJetAir formed?
It was originally formed by a group of
Vietnamese entrepreneurs. They got their
license back in 2007 but due to the economic
crisis, they didnt start up operation until
last year. Originally VietJetAir was going
to team up with AirAsia, but that wasnt
realised. So, they did an in-depth study and
decided to get into operation. I joined back
in September.
Because were a budget airline, we are not
in direct competition with Vietnam Airlines.
The national carrier has their own niche
market there will always be people that for
one reason or another travel Vietnam Airlines.
For us its about education, about
persuading people to get off the roads and
the long bus or train journeys and instead
travel by air. To do that we have to come up
with a price that is affordable and then look
at volume base.
Budget carriers like Indochina Airlines
have tried to succeed in Vietnam but failed.
How will you avoid their mistakes?
I did a personal study of Indochina Airlines
we didnt want to fall into their trap. One
of their mistakes was that they brought in
wet-lease aircraft. This means not only did
they rent the aircraft but they also rented the
technical team, the pilots and the crew. So
the costs were really high. We went straight
into a dry lease programme we lease the
aircraft long-term, which is far cheaper. Then
we do the rest ourselves.
Its like going to London and deciding to
take a taxi. You hire a taxi driver with a taxi
for 24 hours a day and its expensive. But
if you rent a car for a whole month, its far
cheaper. Thats the avenue we went down.
Also, Indochina decided they were not a
budget airline but a full-service, two-class
30 | Word May 2012
Q&A
carrier. That found them competing directly
with Vietnam Airlines. Were not here to
compete with Vietnam Airlines. Were here
to complement them wherever possible. The
piece of cake is big enough for all of us.
Do you think there is genuinely a place
for a no-frills budget operator like yours
in Vietnam where its people are obsessed
with all things luxury?
Look around. How many percent of the
population are really into luxury? Were
not interested in that market. The open air,
on-the-street restaurants are full every day.
Its those people that were targeting. And
anyway, those people who pay for luxury will
travel business class. Were a budget airline.
To be able to offer such low prices like
VND299,000, certain amenities must have
been forfeited, what are they?
The one thing we wont forfeit, of course, is
safety. Not at any price. Our aircraft are fairly
new on average three-years-old which
makes them easy to maintain. This allows us
to ensure our flights arrive on time.
That VND299,000 fare is a promotion
price only, and only for a limited number of
seats. Then it flexes up a bit. We also dont
provide any form of meals or drinks on
board as part of the price of the airfare.
We try to maximise the use of each
aircraft. Safety permitting, we try to fly 360
hours a month rather than 230 to 250 hours.
And we have 180 seats onboard our A320s
rather than 150 seats. For us its all about
volume and to do this we have to be very
cost-efficient. We cannot have too much fat
in the system.
What are your goals for the airline? What
are you looking to achieve in terms of the
aviation industry and the way Vietnamese
people travel?
Our main goal is to fly to as to as many
destinations within Vietnam so we can give
everyone a chance to fly with us and also
allow incoming tourists to go to as many
locations as an aircraft can travel to. Then
to expand internationally. We will look at
ASEAN first Singapore, Kuala Lumpur
and then North Asia, Korea, Japan, Taipei
and certain parts of China. By the end of
2015 we hope to have a fleet of 15 aircraft.
Our first expansion is taking place right
now. We have increased the frequency of
flight between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City and opened up routes to Danang and
Nha Trang.
The company currently has a team of pilots
who are 100 percent foreigner. Why hire
more expensive pilots from overseas rather
than Vietnamese pilots?
There is a lack of Vietnamese pilots in this
country it affects all the operators here.
So, we have to hire foreigners. Also, good
Vietnamese pilots cost as much as foreign pilots.
Were now looking at a localisation
programme where we hire young pilots who
have a license but dont have the A320 rating.
So, we hire them, send them to Airbus for
their training and then over time provide
them with the background and experience
to fly our planes. So, if this happens, the
programme will be for up to 15 pilots. Were
also hoping to build our own simulator centre
here that will help us with our own pilots
and other A320 operators around the region.
Were looking at a lot of avenues that will
logistically enhance the airline.
For more information on VietJetAir, go to www.
vietjetair.com
May 2012 Word | 31

The Dreamweaver
Words by Debbie Clare. Photo by Aaron Joel Santos
A
sheet of red parchment paper is
pegged onto the makeshift washing
line above us, bobbing and jolting in
the breeze. On this crossroad at the
end of Dang Thai Mai, snails and shrimps are
displayed like shop-front jewels, waiting to
find their way into the mouths of passersby,
many of whom are making the short
pilgrimage to Phu Tay Ho (Tay Ho Temple)
beyond. Lining one side of the street, a row
of ramshackle awnings have become shelters
to alfresco offices; each with a small desk, on
which a pen, a paintbrush and a pot of ink
await instruction.
With his sleeves rolled up to his elbows,
his glasses halfway down his nose, Giang
Phi Tuan is applying the final brush strokes
of jet-black water-based ink to a large sheet
of paper.
In the past, this job was more simple, he
says, his hand steady, his eyes unblinking and
his face a picture of concentration. People
usually wished for a house or for more land,
but now the prayers are more complicated,
our lives are more complicated, people want
more.
Tuan has worked as a viet so for the last
seven years; a job which could just as easily
be titled artist, translator or calligrapher.
Being a viet so requires him to transcribe the
worldly needs and wants of his customers
into chu nom the first official written
Vietnamese language. Hailing from a family
of traditional medicine doctors, fortune tellers
and teachers, he learned the craft from a
young age. Its not something you can learn
at school, he says. It has always been in my
family so the knowledge was passed down
to me.
To begin composing the prayer, Tuan must
first choose the correct template.
I have 300 templates containing 300
different prayers, every one is different; some
are prayers for wealth, some for love, some
for health. Many people come to me asking
32 | Word May 2012
THE MANY FACES OF HANOI
for a prayer that can bring them a son, other
people want help selling their land.
The paper templates are stacked in the
corner of Tuans red satin table-clothed desk.
In green, yellow and red, they already bear
the complex chu nom print, and are almost
waving our attention as the wind tickles
through them. He also has a stack of folders
which are packed with thousands of peoples
names, translated into chu nom.
For the next stage of composition, Tuan
collects his customers basic personal
information; name, year of birth, astrological
age, from where he or she hails, and the
customers home address.
The home address is really important, he
explains. The Gods have to be able to find
the correct house if theyre going to process
your wish correctly.
Once the collecting of background
information is complete, Tuan folds the
prayer and inserts it into a long, ready-
made envelope. In something reminiscent
of post office boxes marked domestic or
international, Tuan directs the customer
towards the relevant part of the temple,
dependent on the theme of their prayer, to
ensure that the contents of the envelopes
reach their intended recipient. The envelope
is then placed in the temple with some fruit
or a prepared gift, and just before the incense
burns out, the paper prayer is lit before
dissolving into nothingness.
Special Delivery
Before setting up shop on Dang Thai Mai,
Tuan worked outside the Perfume Pagoda,
located in the Huong Tich mountains. He
recalls a particularly memorable prayer
request from a woman who found out her
husband was cheating on her.
She wanted me to write a prayer that
would cause the mistress to be in a bad
accident, he recalls, but I told her it wasnt
the way, and that we shouldnt bring bad
feeling into the temple. She didnt agree with
me so she just left.
But in contrast to that, some requests have
surprised Tuan enough to stay with him for
years.
A woman came to me and told me that
she was owed a lot of money by a family
in Hang Dao, he says. I thought she was
going to ask for a prayer for the money to
be returned to her, but instead she asked me
for two wishes. The first was for wealth and
peace for her own family, and the second was
for wealth and peace for the debtor. It was
a really humane way of trying to solve the
problem. Ill never forget that.
On the road leading down to the temple,
the shops almost exclusively stock gifts only
intended for ancestors. Choco Pie, joss sticks,
photocopied money and Oreos. Its one of the
most relaxed streets in the city; few cars pass
by, most of the vendors are asleep, children
play happily in the road. The stillness of this
corner, and the sense of hush and calm, is
something that reflects Tuans personality,
and his approach to his work.
This isnt a job for a young person, young
people should be active. This job is better-
suited to older people so you can be more
still.
The position requires Tuan to hear his
customers innermost wishes, secrets and
confessions, but in his soft, eloquent voice,
he insists that confidentiality is assured; the
information he collects and the prayers he
compiles remain between him, the customer
and the spirit world.
The best thing about this job is the
knowledge that I am helping others, he
smiles with humble satisfaction. I know
less and less people will want to do this job
in the future; even now, children come here
and they dont know what it is Im doing,
but as long as people keep on praying, itll
keep the trade going, and thats all we can
really hope for.

READY TO ROCK
This years CAMA festival once again looks set to bring 3,000
revellers to the American Club for a day of intense live music, food,
drink and more. Heres the lowdown on what to expect
I
f ever there was a way to confirm the
arrival of summer, it has to be the
moment that the gates to the American
Club open and the CAMA Festival
speakers are cranked up to their fullest.
Friends, foes, families and lovers of all things
phonic, its time to get outside and get festive
34 | Word May 2012
CAMA SPECIAL
CAMA Festival 6 is open for business.
Returning to the American Club on
Saturday Jun. 2, the festival will see
performances by international artists in
the form of China's Carsick Cars, Japan's
Electric Eel Shock, Hong Kong's Poubelle
International, US rap star Akil the MC and
CARSICK CARS
www.carsickcars.com
Influenced by the drone of The Velvet Underground, Suicide and
Sonic Youth, while combining the formal structures reminiscent of
Steve Reich and Glenn Branca, Carsick Cars formed in Beijing in 2005
to combine brilliantly textured, hard, open chords, with beautifully
crafted songs. Using explosive noise and feedback, lead guitarist Shou
Wang has been described by Rolling Stone China as one of the countrys
four most innovative guitarists.
Having toured Europe with punk-pioneers Sonic Youth, and with
a string of impressive experimental noise projects to add to their CV,
Carsick Cars was listed by Thats Beijing as being one of the top ten
bands in China and is considered to be one of the countrys most
covered underground bands.
Expect noise in its truest form.
PHOTO BY AIDAN DOCKERY
Filipino duo Turbo Goth, plus Hanois
beloved acts Go Lim, Zamina and Machete.
Sex.Mix.
So, prepare yourself for Vietnams answer
to Glastonbury, Woodstock and all else that
incorporates fields, sun, outdoor stages and
live music.
ELECTRIC EEL SHOCK
www.electriceelshock.com
What else is there to say about this band other than the fact that
they totally rock? Well, lets try. They hail from Japan. They make
dark, fuzzed-up stoner-rock whilst somehow managing to keep it
vintage, and according to rock magazine Kerrang they occupy the
gaping void somewhere between Queens Of The Stoneage, AC/
DC and Black Sabbath.
Ridiculously enjoyable, Electric Eel Shock pretty much does
exactly what it says on the tin. Theyve performed numerous times
at the worlds biggest international music showcase event South
by South West, and have been whooped and cheered by thousands
of fans across the globe, through extensive touring and festival
appearances. The band raised over US$50,000 in just 55 days
by appealing to fans to pre-buy their album Sugoi Indeed, and is
currently recording its next studio album.
Strap yourself in, theyre going to blow the roof off.
AKIL (FEAT MC HYDROPHONICS + DJ TECH12)
www.reverbnation.com/akilthemc
www.myspace.com/4dub
www.myspace.com/djtech12
Akils name is stamped into the history of hip-hop for his part in
making Jurassic 5 one of the best and most enduring successes
of the genre. With sound and lyrics that refreshingly defied the
trend of gangsta posturing, legendary Akil is an MC, producer,
songwriter, hip-hop scholar and break dancer. His uplifting live
show has been finely tuned through years of touring, and his
performance this year sees him collaborate with MC Hydrophonics
one of the brightest hip-hop talents in Asia.
MC Hydrophonics, aka Hydro, performed for 200,000 people
at Thailands New Year Countdown party, and has worked with
talent such as HRH Princess Ubolratana Rajakanya of Thailand, as
well as being the founding member of the 4Dub Crew.
Behind the beats will be turntable virtuoso Tech 12. With
residencies spanning three countries and six cities, Tech 12 is
undeniably one of the most in-demand DJs on the continent. His
work alongside such luminaries as De La Soul, Public Enemy,
Dilated Peoples, Grandmaster Flash, Massive Attack, Portishead
and A-Trak make it clear why hes not only Akils number one
choice to be manning the decks but has also been chosen as the
festivals offical DJ, spinning tracks between acts all day long.
TURBO GOTH
www.reverbnation.com/turbogoth ZAMINA
www.vimeo.com/39778951
Hailing from the Philippines, circa 2008, electronic rock
duo Turbo Goth brings to the CAMA stage distorted bass, They came out of nowhere to take the Hanoi live music scene by
thundering synth riffs, crunchy beats and punk-jazz noise storm. Zamina. Who would have expected that the arrival of an
guitars, all stitched together by light and icy female vocals. afrobeat reggae band playing all original tunes could be such a
Currently the only act of their kind in the Philippines, the pair hit in Vietnams capital? This city has a habit of surprising and
have been compared to the likes of Daft Punk, Mew and Bjork, Zamina are unquestionably in keeping with that.
with their performances drawing crowds of music lovers, art Hundreds of Hanoian kids, who had never before heard of
enthusiasts and photographers alike, due to the unpredictable reggae, can now be seen skanking with abandon as the groups
and performance art nature of their live shows. front-man whips off his top and pogos around the sweaty crowd.
Promising a bold, unique and eloquently sexy show, Turbo Get your dancing shoes on (or just leave them off completely),
Goth is an unmissable mutli-sensory experience. Zaminas fusion of reggae, afrobeat and Asian rhythms will have
you winding round the dance floor like a weaver in the reeds.

POUBELLE INTERNATIONAL
www.poubelleinternational.com

An established act on the Hong Kong indie scene, Poubelle

International was formed in 2007 by three designers with the goal of MACHETE.SEX.MIX
bringing girls and boys to the dancefloor through deceptively simple,
addictive songs. Energetic riffs, a healthy dose of irony and quirky, Hanoi band Machete.Sex.Mix believes in one thing keeping it
catchy lyrics dominate a Poubelle International live set, which has dirty. Combining diverse elements such as dubstep, drum and bass,
seen them develop an enviable reputation for tight and engaging live hardcore, rock and reggae, with vocals from Mouth of the Wolf front-
shows. man Jacques, the bands bone-crushing live performances have lead
With a string of tours, live TV, radio and festival performances under audiences to spiritual planes of both trauma and addiction. The band is
their belt, the bands debut EP Avec La Boom was released in 2010 and set to release its debut EP in May 2012.
saw the track The Battle Of Trafalgar Square hailed as Best of HK Indie
by Time Out magazine.
Signing to Sony/ATV Music Publishing in 2011, its an exciting time
for a band that has nothing to lose and everything to gain.

GO LIM INFORMATION
They are, quite simply, one of the most exciting bands that Vietnam
has ever produced. An anomaly as big as the enigmatic Hanoi CAMA Festival 6 will take place on Saturday Jun.
that spawned them, Go Lim have burst out of a male-dominated 2 from 1pm at the American Club, 19 Hai Ba Trung,
metal scene to the delight of anyone whos into fresh sounds, Hoan Kiem.
independent music and free expression.
Tickets are VND300,000 in advance, VND400,000
While many of Hanois bands take Aerosmith, Linkin Park and
on the door, with a 50 percent discount available
Metallica as their reference points, Go Lim is more likely to talk for those with a Vietnamese student card.
about the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, experimental Vietnamese guitarist
Nguyen Manh Hung and the influence of underground avant Drop by CAMA ATK at 73A Mai Mac De, Hai Ba
garde art studio Nha San. Trung from May 24 to collect your tickets or visit
Their off-the-wall take on indie rock sees performances from the festival website for a list of alternative vendors
skin-headed front woman Nhi take on a shaman-esque quality.
Her art poetry lyrics cite such topics as hungry cats, which are For further information, updates and pre-events, go
an exhilarating break from insipid love ballads and odes to the to www.camafestival.com
countryside.

36 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 37

 COVER STORY

CA PHE
It's a catch up with friends
It's a warming first date
It's something to stare at when your lover is late
It picks you up when you're tired
And clams your nerves when you're down
It's a friendly companion when there's no-one around
It's the summer with ice
The winter with cream
It's the perfect arousal out of a dream
It's the start of your day
And intrusive at night
For some, without it, there could never be light

Black gold, this is for you

PHOTO BY BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

38 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 39
 A BRIEF
HISTORY OF
COFFEE
Rose Arnold looks back at the worldwide origins of coffee,
and considers why it remains such a vital part of society today
L
egend has it that coffee was
discovered around 1000AD by
an Arabian goat herder while he
was observing unusually lively
goats. It has since become a huge part of
cultural life.
For the first 600 years or so, its use was
restricted to the Islamic world. Caffeine
fuelled the whirling dervishes and kept
the devoted at their prayers far into the
night. Despite attempts to guard its use
the mullahs complaining that with coffee
available on the streets their mosques
were emptying out coffee drinking
inevitably spread into everyday life. By
the 15th century, coffee drinking reached
Constantinople and became an integral part
of both social and business life. In Turkey,
coffee was thought to be so important that a
husband failing in his duty to keep the pot
full was grounds for divorce.
The first Europeans to get their hands
on coffee, while risking the death penalty,
were Dutch traders in the 16th century.
From the seedlings of a smuggled plant,
they managed to develop coffee plantations
on colonial Java (now part of Indonesia).
PHOTO BY BY NICK ROSS
Perhaps made overconfident by their
success, the Dutch gave coffee plants to
various members of European nobility.
Coffee growing spread to the colonies of
France after (so the story goes) a naval
officer, visiting Paris from Martinique,
40 | Word May 2012
stole a branch from the palace grounds
of Louis XIV in a moonlit raid. Brazil got
coffee through devious charm. When direct
methods failed, the handsome Francisco de
Melo Palheta was sent for, and seduced the
wife of the Governor of French Guinea. As
a parting token of affection she gave him a
bouquet of flowers studded with precious
coffee seedlings.
Time for Change
By then, the secret was well and truly out.
Coffee became a worldwide obsession.
Coffee houses sprang up everywhere
in the west, gaining a reputation as places
of radical ideas and intellect 'penny
universities' where, for the price of a
cup of coffee, anyone could engage in
stimulating conversation. Coffee houses
brought about a change in the way people
socialised, putting everyday life into the
public sphere. While there had been bars
and pubs before, coffee brought a new,
exciting dimension.
Coffee has become linked, in our
collective consciousness, with literature,
with poetry, with movements. Given
the sheer number of events that have
been held in coffee shops over the years,
this is perhaps inevitable. Enlightenment
writers, including Scottish philosopher
David Hume, hung out at Edinburgh coffee
shops. Sartre and de Beauvoir wrote at Les
May 2012 Word | 41
 Coffee houses brought about a change in
the way people socialised, putting everyday
life into the public sphere. While there had
been bars and pubs before, coffee brought a
new, exciting dimension
Deux Magots caf in Paris. The beat poets
claimed coffee as theirs, Jim Morrison first
performed in beat poet hang out Coffee
n Confusion. In Seattle, coffee shops
such as Last Exit to Brooklyn (named
after the book) became synonymous with
counterculture and rebellion, with left wing
thinking, with dissidence. In Prague, Caf
Slavia was the setting for the playwright,
intellectual and future president Vaclav
Havels plans of revolution.
Coffee lore maintains that Voltaire wrote
Candide under a 50-cup-a-day induced
mania (a level which in reality is likely to
cause death). Controversial 18th century
French diplomat Talleyrand famously
described coffee as black as the devil, hot
as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love.
Coffee has been in Vietnam since the
beginning of the French occupation in the
late 18th century. Early coffee culture here
focused around the Metropole Hotel and
the French, but Vietnam has lots of coffee
stories of its own. There are coffee shops
everywhere, catering to different customers;
the old beret wearing men playing co tuong,
the university students, the young hipsters.
The walls of the Old Quarters Caf Lam
are filled with the paintings of artists who
used to gather there, swapping days of
coffee drinking for pieces of art.
Talking to consummate storyteller Nguyen
Qui Duc (writer, translator, editor and
journalist) at his new bar Tadioto to get a
better insight into coffee in Vietnam than my
six months living here can provide I begin
to get the impression that actually, while
coffee is very popular here, it had much less
social impact. Instead of revolutionising life,
coffee drinking slotted right in.
Long before coffee, people here
gathered around makeshift tea stalls in
the street. Duc tells me about coming back
to Vietnam after many years in the US,
adjusting again to a different way of doing
42 | Word May 2012
things; about numerous trips to fix his
motorbike, and frustrations over a lack of
efficiency. And then Id realise that every
week Id go to the tea shop, waiting for my
bike, and people would gather and talk.
Id hear gossip, share news and stories; it
felt like community.
Going Public
In Vietnam, the public space that coffee
houses gave people in the west is much
bigger. Once outside of your front door
youre likely to be asked by neighbours
where youre going, what youre doing,
whether youve eaten yet.
Like many young people anywhere
in the world, but particularly those with
traditionally little indoor space and involved
families, meeting friends outside of the
home was a necessity. Coffee shops were a
practicality. When I grew up, Duc says,
one didnt have cell phones or telephones,
so youd go to cafs. Sooner or later youd
meet someone and if it didnt work out youd
go to another caf. A lot of us didnt have
money; often youd just go until someone
with money showed up. Wed take care of
each other.
In Hanoi, currently, there are huge
numbers of independent and interesting
cafs. There are regular events held such as
poetry readings, documentary screenings,
intimate gigs and exhibitions. There are
secret cafs up winding staircases, laid-
back places with a bohemian vibe, cobbled
together cafs, cafs almost tumbling into
traffic all selling the best coffee youve
ever tried. There are cafs that seem to have
barely changed since they opened in the
early part of the last century.
Its that whole experience of sharing time
time for friends which life in the west
doesnt allow you to do anymore, Duc tells
me. And Ive found it again, in Hanoi. Its
still very much alive.
May 2012 Word | 43
THE PLANTATION
The high altitude of the Central Highlands provides the perfect terrain and
climate for growing coffee. Nick Ross visits a plantation near Dalat.
W
ere going to a plantation
in Me Linh, just outside the
village of Ta Nung on the
edge of Dalat, but as we
traverse the valley and keep on driving, it
becomes clear that its a bit further out of the
way than first thought.
We turn off the paved road onto an
unsurfaced track and traverse the potholes,
bumps and mini gulleys. In the rainy season
this road would be impassable, laughs my
driver, Vien, as we struggle up an incline. I
have to get off the bike twice and walk.
We come to a crossroads and Vien asks
for directions to anh Phuongs plantation.
44 | Word May 2012
The answer comes from a woman with a
distinctly northern accent. Dalat and the
Central Highlands are full of migrants
few of the original settlers remain. In
general they mingle, although there are tales
of a village made up of so fiercely ardent
northern Catholics that any other person
who settles within its confines does so at
their peril. I am assured that Me Linh is not
that place.
Arriving at the plantation gates we get off
the bike and stop. Everything is locked up.
Are you sure they know were coming? I
ask. Yes, sure, says Vien. He takes out his
phone and starts to call while I wander off
into a field of coffee trees on the opposite
side of the road.
Located at the top of a valley at an
altitude higher than the highest point in the
British Isles, this is where coffee, that bean
so essential to the daily, caffeine-infused
lifestyle prevalent in Vietnam, thrives.
Grown in the areas surrounding Buon Me
Thuot and Dalat, coffee is the lifeblood out
here, the force that makes this area tick.
Looking at the trees were maybe half to
two thirds through the growing cycle. The
clusters of beans are big and green, but few
have turned into that deep red colour which
signifies harvest.
The Manager
I get called back and a woman opens the
gates. Wearing wellington boots, leggings, a
quilted sleeveless jacket and well wrapped
up to protect herself from the sun, except
for the conical hat she looks every bit the
British farmer.
Phuong is away, she says eyeing me
with a distrust reserved only for journalists
and lawyers. But yes, I heard someone was
coming. What do you want?
Im writing a piece on the process of
growing coffee, I reply. I just wondered if
you could answer a few questions.
Brusquely she sits me down and to every
question, the answer is short and to the
point. She is impatient and unfriendly and
I feel myself struggling. But gradually she
warms to me and realises that Im not there
to dig up some mountainous dirt. Im on a
learning mission.
Although she introduces herself as the
plantation manager, Ms Hoa is in reality the
wife of the owner. And coffee is not just her
work, but her passion.
Overseeing a plantation of 30,000 trees, the
split of the beans represents a recent trend
50 percent are Robusta, 50 percent are Arabica.
Until recently it was Robusta that was almost
exclusively grown in Vietnam and exported to
buyers overseas. The key component in local,
on-the-street Vietnamese coffee, Robusta is
also at the bottom of the coffee bean pyramid,
both in terms of price and grade. But now the
more labour-intensive Arabica is making an
appearance. Not only does it fetch a higher
price, but the bean tastes better, too.
But the transition hasnt been easy. The
Arabica plants are producing too many
flowers, explains Hoa as she shows me
some of the trees. Everyones been having
the same problem. With too many flowers
the trees are difficult to look after properly
and the taste goes, too.
Nonetheless, she is proud, immensely
proud of her farm, and takes me to look
around. Its the spraying season, the time
when a mixture of insecticide and herbicide
is thrusted on the plants. Although the coffee
bean husks are used as fertiliser at the start
of the growing cycle, this is supplemented
by chemicals. For a moment my heart drops
I like the idea of coffee in this country
being natural and organic. But as with all
foodstuffs these days, its anything but. And
for plantation owners like Hoa, not even a
second thought is given to the means to make
the plants grow. The whole plantation gets
sprayed two to three times a year.
The Labourers
We head out on motorbikes into the
plantation and come across the first group
of labourers spraying the trees. One man,
wearing a Cambodian army shirt, is
operating the machine while three others go
into the fields with hoses.
I try to take photos but the labourers, all
wearing face masks, shy away. Like Hoa
when I first enter the plantation, they are full
of distrust. Eventually Im allowed to snap
away as long as their faces arent displayed
and I also get some images from afar.
The spraying is hot work and as elsewhere
in Vietnam, its not just men putting in the
muscle power, women, too, are at work. But
you dont get the impression of a people
shackled to the fields. They are serious as they
work, but they also laugh and joke, too. A
huge bucket of tra da also provides an excuse
for frequent breaks and ongoing chatter.
And then there are the views. At certain
spots you have sweeping vistas of the valleys
below, of the plantation itself, lakes, forest and
mountains further afield, and of all the farms
below. If you have these vistas in front of
you every day, they cease to take your breath
away. But compared to the big city, they are
fresh, raw and real.
Civilisation
Back by the farmhouse Vien and myself take
our leave. From a not so auspicious start
its been an interesting trip. Life out here is
simple, terribly so. And even though the life
of a farm labourer is not one to be envied, it is
nowhere near as harsh as it may at first seem.
That daily drudge seems to be something
reserved for factories and the cities.
As we drive back, Vien starts to show me
spots where husks have been left on the road
to dry and even one plantation that, despite
the lateness of the season, has plants just
starting to flower.
I feel Im starting to know a bit more about
coffee, that drink I imbibe daily. I just wish it
could all be organic.
May 2012 Word | 45
 Cong Caphe Caf Duy Tri
I
hate coffee. I mean, I can tolerate it,
if I cant taste it. But a curious thing
CONFESSIONS
has happened to me since I moved to
Vietnam. I need it now. If I dont drink
it I am asleep. And now that I need it to
be awake, and can disguise the taste with
OF AN ENGLISH sweet condensed milk, I am discovering
that I kind of like it. I like coffee, a lot.
One of the best ways to pass the time in
COFFEE
Hanoi is, I believe, to sit in one of its many
traditional cafs, a drip coffee percolating
slowly by ones side, a book in hand or if
one has drunk too much coffee just stare
at the world and its people as they pass,
imagine absurd things and, as slowly and
softly as the coffee drips into the cup, lose
EATER
ones mind.
In a city full to the brim with great
cafs, its hard to pick favourites. There
are still so many I havent been to. But let
me introduce you to ten I consider to be
among the best. After a bit of research on
the internet I now know that it would take
78.86 cups of drip coffee to kill someone
of my body weight, which means that
I, and probably you (unless youre one
thousandth my size), can visit them all in
one day. Come with me.
Words by Philip Turo. Photos by Dominic Blewett
On the Drip
I start at Cong Caphe (152D Trieu Viet
46 | Word May 2012
Vuong, Hai Ba Trung) as its near my
house and is purported to sell a coffee that
sounds a bit like it could be breakfast. The
caf probably needs no introduction, but
anyway its a cool place, high-ceilinged
and decorated with baby propaganda and
thimbles of coloured thread. The coffee,
which comes from Buon Me Thuot, is
normally excellent. I drink a coffee with
yoghurt and sticky rice (VND50,000). Its
bitty and tastes fermented, like Christmas
cardboard. Filling, but not my thing, maybe
its yours.
Next I wheel myself up the road to Caf
61 (61 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung).
The best thing about this place is its prices
almost as cheap as in the past. I order a
ca phe sua da (VND15,000). It seems to be a
place where men come to sleep. A couple of
them are passed out in window seats. I sit
at the stone table out the back. Its slightly
Narnian in aspect, although coloured as if
the Aslan to be slain was a giant Dalmatian
rather than a lion. The caffeine is kicking in
nicely now. Im awake.
A brisk, slightly nervy drive takes me
to Caf Duy Tri (43 Yen Phu, Tay Ho). Im
told this is one of the best cafes in the city.
A narrow entrance framed with square jars
of coffee beans leads to the ground floor
seating area. On the walls are pictures of
Caf Pho Co
sharp-toothed rodents, some gnawing
something pink and fleshy. A human face?
The inside of a knee? Upstairs are two more
levels, with slightly less alarming mosaics
adorning the walls, and framed photos of a
sword and an old tennis racquet (I think).
Some of the seats are made from upturned
beer crates. I take a seat on the balcony
overlooking the bustle of the street. Their
speciality, sua chua ca phe (VND20,000), is
excellent, and tastes vaguely of chocolate.
Im not sure, but I think I can hear the
electricity in the wires buzzing. Yes. Yes I
can. Theyre right next to me. Can you hear
them? You cant?
Heading back into the centre of town,
I visit Caf Pho Co (11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem enter through the silk shop)
for a cup of their famous egg coffee
(VND40,000). Its a load of froth through
which the coffee glides downwards. It
tastes a little bit eggy, a lot like roasted
marshmallows. Spooning it into my
mouth I lock my quivering eyes on the
view of Hoan Kiem Lake. This used to
be the secret caf a slice of Hanoi
passed down from person to person, until
some winky put it in the Lonely Planet
and it became another stop on the trail.
Apparently, theres a new secret caf, and
I know where it is. No way Im telling you,
May 2012 Word | 47
 Clockwise from left: Caf
Cat, Caf Lam, Caf
Junghans, Caf Xe Co
though. No way. Its a bit of a suffocating
walk out through the tunnel, which is dark
and narrow and dark, and turns purple at
the end like being born into the light. Its
too bright out here.
Fully Wired
Time for lunch, so I drive to Caf Cat (2
Chau Long, Ba Dinh). Here you can get
some very tasty pho ordered in from across
the street. I get a bowl of pho bo chin with
an egg in it (VND40,000) and a ca phe
sua da (VND25,000). I clutch chopsticks
between my violently shaking fingers and
eat, watched over by wooden cats. Good. I
dont like cats. The caf is quiet and the Wi-
Fi is strong. I get my computer out. I write
emails until a loud tapping sound begins
to annoy me. Its disturbing the peace and
quiet Ive found. Eventually, I realise its my
own fingers hammering away at the keys.
This is some good coffee here. Good.
Next stop is Caf Xe Co (11-13 Hang
Bun, Ba Dinh). My fingers smell of apples.
I havent eaten apples. Here is filled with
old bikes and motorbikes. Very funky
place. Coffee here (VND20,000). I cant stop
smelling my fingers. Itll be ok. Good. I like
it here. But its time to leave. I cant find my
motorbike key. Is that it, up there in the wires?
What the? Its massive. Im shrinking, so
small. How on earth did that happen? Pat my
body to make sure. Wait. I dont own a Vespa.
Thats not mine. My key is small. Here it is,
by my foot. I am still big. Good.
At Caf Lam (60 Nguyen Huu Huan,
Hoan Kiem), small wooden tables and
chairs line the walls, which are covered in
paintings. The coffee (VND17,000) is very
strong here. I once scared a man, I think,
by gibbering at him under the influence
of the beans in this place. This time Im
here alone and will scare no one. In one of
the propaganda-style paintings, a baby is
suckling at its mothers breast which
is nice. In another, a tiny, grey-skinned
woman in a blue ao dai is holding aloft, or
being crushed by, a wooden tobacco bong
three times the size of her. In yet another
picture there is a pot and six cups. Ive had
six cups of coffee today. Who told them?
And why are they looking at me? I down
my seventh and leave. Im frightened.
48 | Word May 2012
Skipping a Beat
At the end of Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai,
past the Hoang An Pagoda in Tay Ho is a
little caf on the water with stone tables,
a view of the lake, the murmur of hidden
frogs, the splash of men fishing, and coffee
(VND20,000). You can sit here very still,
close your eyes, and breathe. But you may
begin to think youre a frog, or inside a
frog, or inside the water being fished for.
And then you wont be able to breathe and
youll gasp for air. And people will stare at
you, and youll have to go.
This traffic is intense. Back in town at
Caf Junghans (64 Hoa Ma, Hai Ba Trung)
I am now surrounded by old clocks. The
proprietor tells me there may be up to 800
of them. They are beautiful, these clocks,
set to different times. I am drinking coffee
(VND20,000). Its impossible to live at
all these different times. The clocks are
German. A punctual people Im told. Never
met one. Proprietor neither. Clocks chime.
Theyre all ticking. Tick-tock. Put my ear
to some of them. Absolute silence. Put
my fingers to my neck. Feel my galloping
heart. Hear it banging in my ears. It is I
who tick, I who tock. Would be tiring to
live all these parallel lives at once. Would
need a lot of coffee. Outside is a tree,
gnarled with time. At its base sits a key-
cutter, a cutter of keys. To unlock time?
No. Thats a stupid thing to say. Stupid. To
unlock the tree. Still trying.
The sun, though I cant see it, is setting.
Im drinking coffee (VND20,000) on Ho Xa
Dan. A kingfisher lives here, and terrapins
bask on a log. I would tell you where I drink
but the lake is ringed with places so you can
just pick one. Anyway, I come here to read
and dont want to meet you here. If you turn
up youll ask me if you can join me and Ill
want to say no but Ill say yes so as not to
offend you and then resent you as you sit
down. Or Ill say no and then feel horrible
and be unable to concentrate on my book
anyway. Or perhaps youd only asked to be
polite, and when I say yes youll feel like
you have to sit with me and will resent me
when you do. Better you just choose your
own caf. Anyway, I cant talk to you now or
look you in the eye. My heart, it beats like a
little birds.
May 2012 Word | 49
 TALKING ITALIAN
Coffee production and consumption in Vietnam is as common as picking rice and eating pho, but what
happens when European brands start setting up shop in the worlds second biggest exporting country?
Debbie Clare takes a coffee break with Punto Italias General Manager Giorgio V. Vergano
What differences have you seen in coffee
culture in Vietnam compared to that of
Europe?
Coffee culture in Vietnam is changing quite
rapidly and we see more and more the
influence of products and consumption
styles that come from other countries.
The national coffee culture that has made
Vietnam famous for its production of green
coffee and relative way of drinking coffee
remains widely eradicated.
If we talk about coffee roasting, the
difference remains very strong. Vietnam
being a producing country, the roasting of its
coffee remains linked to the few varieties of
coffee beans that are grown locally, most of
which are Robusta. In Europe the experience
of the coffee roasters is that of blending
different coffee origins in order to achieve a
particular aroma in the cup.
If we talk about coffee preparation the
difference is particularly visible with the
southern European countries where the
preparation of coffee is mainly done with
the use of pressure equipment (moka pot
or espresso machines). In Vietnam, and
likewise in northern European countries,
the typical extraction is dripping, using
different sorts of filter devices.
If we talk about coffee drinking... well,
there I believe that the only difference is
given by the countries habits: in some
countries people enjoy coffee at the bar,
50 | Word May 2012
in others at the nearest coffee take-away
place, or in the street coffee place, but in
Hanoi, like in Torino, Berlin, London or
Madrid, coffee is the companion to enjoy
a moment with friends (the afternoon
break), with colleagues (the morning coffee
before starting work) or simply to reflect on
something alone.
Why do you think coffee culture is so much
more chic and cosmopolitan than tea?
Personally I think that tea is much more chic
than coffee. Coffee instead has become much
more fun, young and trendy. It is probably
due to the different way of preparing and
consuming it. With the introduction of Italian
espresso, coffee has taken a whole different
dimension. It is no longer the consumption
of a simple infusion, but trendy drinks like
cappuccino, latte and hundreds of other
recipes that challenge baristas to get the
perfect shot and invent new recipes and that
delight the palate of old and new generations
of coffee lovers.
In a country that is the second largest
exporter of coffee, how do people receive
coffee that comes from Europe?
If we want to make a practical example, we
could say that it is similar to that of European
cars in Japan, or jewels in a gold or diamond
mining region.
In practice I believe that European coffee,
and in particular Italian coffee, is perceived
as something different. It is the coffee that
has the unique aromas, that has the unique
trendy image and quality. This is what has
also made Italian coffee become the reference
coffee anywhere in the world.
What have you learned about the coffee
culture in Vietnam since you started trading
here?
Personally I have learnt a lot. After four years
in Vietnam I have learnt many aspects of
coffee growing, preparation and the habits of
drinking that have enriched my knowledge.
Punto Italia Espresso has always had the idea
of taking a piece of Italy around the world in
the authentic aromas, quality and style that
characterise our products and services. Being
here I have learnt that all this must be done
respecting the local habits, speed and tastes.
Have you seen any roasting, grounding or
brewing techniques in Vietnam that you
had not seen before in Europe?
Indeed in Vietnam it is quite the common
practice to find roasting techniques that in
Europe are very seldom used and in Italy are
prohibited. In Vietnam, due to the fact that the
only available coffee beans are those produced
in the country, the roasting is generally made
with lots of additives (sugar, fats or artificial
aromas) that help to modify the flavour and
make it easier to drink. For example, law in
Italy forbids this practice as the coffee aromas
of the Italian Espresso must only come from
the blending of different origins. Weasel coffee
is also something unique here and in the
region. It is certainly not something we can
find in Europe as well as some recipes like that
of coffee with egg, or coffee with yogurt that
are very unique to Vietnam.
What are the top three attributes which, when
combined, make the perfect cup of coffee?
Well, from a coffee roaster point of view, I
would say that on top of all you have the
blend of coffee that is used: quality does
make the difference! Also the equipment used
is very important. It is necessary to use the
appropriate tools and to keep them correctly.
Last but not least, the experience and passion
of the person preparing the coffee. Like
all foods, if the person preparing it has no
experience or passion, the result is terrible.
On a personal note, I would also add that
the smile of the person serving the coffee can
make a huge difference
FAMILY FOUNDATIONS
Hoa Le takes a step back in time to trace the family history of one of Hanois most
popular cafs. Photos by Aaron Joel Santos
A
light summer breeze rolls in
the through open doorway,
teasing out the charming
aromatic scent of freshly
roasted coffee beans. Its 1pm at Caf Thai
and the place is teaming with customers.
If this caf was a person it would be a
happy man in his seventies, with a warm,
welcoming smile and coffee-coloured skin.
Indeed, everything in this coffee house is
coated in dark brown; the walls, the tiny
wooden stools, the square tables, the little
ceramic coffee mugs, and even the table
spoons it is one of the oldest coffee shops
in Hanoi, after all.
A loyal twenty-something customer
arrives. Hes clearly familiar with the shop
as he strides down to a little table in the
corner a place hes probably returned to
countless times. Theres no need for him
to order the usual black coffee no sugar
is delivered to him. He lights a cigarette,
inhales the smoke, and slowly sips his
coffee. While enjoying the peace and
companionship of this place, he admits that cups and some stuffed baguettes, he would big as some industrial ones in which you
he has been coming here twice a day, every seek to attract customers predominantly can brew one or two kilos of coffee at one
day, for the last seven years. Im addicted intellectuals and then collect their cups time. Our filter can only make three cups of
to the coffee here, he says. from doorsteps while making his way home coffee each time.
in the afternoon. Tinh is reluctant to convert to modern
Family Fortunes And from that street vendor back in methods for brewing coffee such as
The amiable Nguyen Van Tinh is the those early days, coffee gradually became electric machines or filters. Some say the
current owner of Caf Thai. He represents the familys business. In the early 1940s, traditional method is very time-consuming
three generations of his familys ownership Den opened the first shop, with only a and complicated, but I think tradition and
of this coffee house. few tables and chairs dotted around where experience have their values. The customers
Our familys fortunes have gone up and the coffee house now stands. Despite some love our coffee, so its worth the effort.
down many times in the past few decades, interruptions during the period when Caf Thai serves only one type of coffee
he says. Every time we were left completely private businesses were banned, and but with three options: with condensed
empty-handed, we returned to brewing during the wars, Caf Thai was kept alive milk, with sugar or sugarless black. The
coffee. It helped us make our way back. by Den, later by his son Thai, and now by coffee itself is a mix of three types of bean
Tinh recalls at least four times that his his grandson, Tinh. bought from Dien Bien and Nghe An in the
family has faced bankruptcy. The family I believe its destiny, claims Tinh, who north, and Buon Me Thuot in the central
tried to run other types of businesses was once a secondary school painting highlands. According to Tinh, each region
throughout the war and during the teacher, and also worked in Poland for offers a great kind of bean.
countrys social and economic upheavals, three years. It was never certain that we The coffee at Caf Thai is thick with a
but without success. Everything we would be able to keep the business afloat silky, emulsified texture. Its not too bitter
had saved was destroyed after nights of for 70 years. or sour. It is, in fact, a combination of both
bombing, he explains. We were pushed Tinh loves coffee. He loves sourcing the tastes, but on a small, palatable scale. Its
back to the beginning again. right beans, roasting and brewing them. simple yet tasty because according to Tinh,
The history of Caf Thai dates back to He is clearly very proud to have inherited its 100 percent coffee.
the late 1920s when Tinhs grandfather, the tradition that his grandfather and his When asked if one day the shop will
Den, left his small village in Hung Yen father left for him both the shop and the change to become more modern with more
and journeyed to Hanoi in search of technique for preparing coffee. drinks on offer, his answer is a resounding
employment. The 17-year-old boy was no. He explains with a smile. Its always
taught how to brew coffee by his friends, Fuelling the Fire interesting to have a different style from the
and began a job as a mobile street vendor. To roast the coffee we still use a wooden popular trend, right?
Every morning he would walk the streets fireplace instead of gas, he explains. The Caf Thai is located at 27 Trieu Viet Vuong,
selling coffee. Equipped with a flask, a few stainless filter that we are using is not as Hai Ba Trung
May 2012 Word | 51

REAPING THE
HARVEST
Rose Arnold spills the beans on the worldwide coffee industry,
and considers the cost of its global success
C
offee is much more than just your
morning pick-me-up. It is black
gold, one of the most valuable
and most traded commodities
in the world, making a number of people
incredibly rich. At the same time, millions
of people in the developing world rely on
the coffee industry for their livelihoods. The
disparity in wealth between those at the
bottom and those at the top is huge.
You might be tempted to shrug at this
point. It might not be fair, but its nothing
new. As Leonard Cohen sang, The poor stay
poor, the rich get rich. Everybody knows.
And anyhow, people are getting paid a fairly
high price for coffee at the moment.
But what has happened with the coffee
trade is happening across so many areas of
our lives. Things that should have some
inherent value things such as having
homes to live in, having food to eat, the right
of self-determination are being hijacked by
the demands of a kind of hyper-capitalism.
Speculation on the financial markets and the
desire for huge profits is putting everyone
at risk, with people in the developing world
particularly vulnerable to the potential
fall-out. The futures of people who produce
coffee, and who rely on its trade, depend on
factors almost entirely outside of their control.
For 27 years, the supply and price of coffee
was kept stable by the International Coffee
Agreement, and when it failed in 1989,
coffee prices plummeted. Prices did spike
again, following a global shortage caused
by bad harvests and frosts, but high prices
only encouraged more people to grow more
coffee leading to oversupply and the
accompanying low prices. By the year 2000,
after more than ten years on the free market,
the price of coffee was at an all time low and
didnt even cover the cost of production. It
was a crisis for the farmers and the countries
that relied on the coffee trade, and NGOs
rushed to pick up the pieces.
52 | Word May 2012
Troubled Water
The low prices and inherent unfairness in
the coffee trade prompted many to be highly
critical of the role of free trade in tackling
poverty. NGOs, including Oxfam, also
highlighted the culpability of the World Bank
and the IMF in imposing free trade policies
on developing countries as a condition for
getting aid, concluding that poverty had
been made worse by the banks one size
fits all approach. For one country, Bolivia,
accepting the banks conditions resulted in
per capita income dropping to less than it
had been 25 years earlier, with 63 percent
of the population living in poverty. One of
the poverty reduction measures included
privatising water. Desperate Bolivians,
faced with escalating water prices, rioted. A
number of the developing countries that took
loans with the World Bank have since spoken
out about the negative consequences and
their unhappiness.
Other factors have conspired to increase
farmers and developing countries
vulnerability to price shocks in the market,
including developing countries increasing
their focus on growing crops for export and
the selling of national resources to finance
debts. The introduction of modern, large-scale
farming methods (often insisted on as a loan
condition) was another factor that reduced
farmers self-sufficiency. Traditionally, many
coffee farmers had a small second income,
plus food, from the trees under which coffee
plants grew. New methods enabled coffee
plants to grow directly in the sun, increasing
production, but they required large amounts
of inputs including fertilisers, pesticides and
farm machinery. In times of low coffee prices,
farmers couldnt afford the upkeep on their
high maintenance farms, some going into
debt, some losing their farms.
Prices are currently high, certainly
compared to the coffee crisis of 2000. In May
2011, the price of coffee reached its highest
level in 30 years, although it has fallen
considerably since. It isnt all good news for The levels of risk and potential reward have
farmers. The higher coffee prices have also
been accompanied by higher prices of oil,
petrol, food and other commodities. Even
more fundamentally, the higher price has
been gained through changes in the financial
markets the knock-on effects of which
make many producers and developing
countries even more vulnerable to price
fluctuation.
Damage and Instability
The Commodities Futures Modernisation
Act (CFMA) passed in the United States
in 2000 appeared to be an innocuous piece
of legislation, slipped in with the budget.
It has since been described by financial
commentators as one of the most historically
damaging pieces of legislation. TIME
magazine, in a roll-call of those to blame for
the economic meltdown, awarded it the
dubious honour of the single government
move that did more than any other to muck
things up. Amongst other things, the CFMA
spawned a new breed of coffee profiteer
the big investment banks and hedge funds,
led by Goldman Sachs and turned the
commodities futures market into a giant
money making machine.
In its original form, the commodities
futures market was designed to give buyers
and sellers a level of stability that made
business possible in the uncertain world
of agriculture and farming. It was a tightly
regulated, slow moving vehicle for buyers
and sellers of commodities, such as coffee,
to agree on sales and prices for goods to be
delivered the following year.
The CFMA blew the market wide open.
Now anyone, with sufficient money, was
allowed to trade commodities on the market
without any intention of ever actually taking
receipt of the goods. The money poured in.
Prior to this deregulation, the trade in coffee
futures, over one week, was in the region
of 46,000 contracts (one futures contract =
37,500 pounds of green coffee/one shipping
container). Post-deregulation that figure has
reached as high as 284,000 contracts. There
are now approximately ten times as many
coffee C futures being traded as there is
actual coffee.
Speculation amplifies price fluctuation
and divorces price from physical factors
such as supply and demand. The norm is
for high-frequency trades to be calculated
by algorithms and triggered by small
fluctuations in the price. After all, when there
is ten times the number of bets as physical
goods, the way the market goes is dictated
by what people think is going to happen. A
reported fear of bad harvests, even entirely
groundless, will move the market. What
the big players do or say becomes of prime
importance.
Risk Assessment
offers support to help buffer farmers against
risen with the increased market volatility,
but access to large amounts of money is a
prerequisite of being able to ride out the price
changes. Rather than protecting farmers,
exporters and others involved in the industry
from risk, the market now makes them
increasingly vulnerable.
Price instability is also potentially very
dangerous for coffee producers. As the World
Bank recognised in a recent report, instability
means coffee farmers cant plan crops,
allocate resources or even simply recover
costs. Similar problems were identified for
governments of developing countries. In the
past, even the threat of future price shocks
forced farmers to take their children out of
school, cancel improvements to their farms,
and go without basic necessities because of
In the past, even the threat of future price
shocks forced farmers to take their children
out of school, cancel improvements to their
farms, and go without basic necessities
because of the worry about where next years
income was going to come from
the worry about where next years income
was going to come from.
Supachai Panitchpakdi, Secretary
General of the UN Conference on Trade and
Development (UNCTAD), has spent years
warning world organisations about the huge
risk of tying in free trade and unregulated
financial industries with poverty alleviation.
In a recent report, he stated clearly that the
financial markets and institutions have
become the masters rather than the servants
of the real economy, distorting trade and
investment, heightening levels of inequality,
and posing a systemic threat to economic
stability.
Current high coffee prices are reliant on the
continued boom in the commodities futures
markets. And as recent economic history
tells us, from the failure of megalithic banks
supposedly too big to fail and the ensuing
economic meltdown, theres no such thing as
a safe bet.
The International Coffee Organisation
between people and culture. He maintains
the impact of unstable processes. They
recommend that coffee growers diversify
their crops, specialise in and market different
niche coffees and also try to climb up the
coffee value chain. Farmers also benefit
from joining co-operatives. All of these steps
help move coffee from a purely financial
commodity back to one that has value away
from the commodities markets. This helps
protect the growers from the fallout of price
changes, and returns the small but stable
margins earned along traditional avenues.
Buying Local
Award-winning Vietnamese company Trung
Nguyen Coffee is an excellent example of
how following this kind of model works. In
2001, 2003 and 2004 the companys founder,
Mr. Dang Le Nguyen Vu, won young
entrepreneur awards from the Vietnamese
Young Enterprises Association and the Asian
Success Young Entrepreneur Award. In 2007,
having successfully established over 10,000
franchise cafes, the company was a finalist in
the Franchise Licensing Show Asia. In 2010
they were one of two finalists in Franchisor
of the Year Award in the Franchise Awards.
Trung Nguyen Coffee, as well as offering
franchises, makes a range of specialist coffees
that are sold internationally. The company
is involved in every step of the process and
their coffee growers have been certified by
Eurepgap as using safe and sustainable
growing practices. The motivation for Mr.
Dang to specialise in gourmet coffees was for
his business to become more independent
of the world commodity markets and regain
control of its own destiny. Mr. Dang has
also talked in recent interviews about how
key the Eastern view of the world is for his
business, of thinking about the interrelations
that business has responsibilities beyond pure
economics, it has a responsibility to its nation,
to the industry and to the world.
Local Hanoi company Betterday were
the first business based in a coffee growing
country to gain Fair Trade accreditation.
Unfortunately, due to the high cost of the
certificate, their coffee is no longer accredited.
Yet owner Nguyen Tuyet Minh remains
strongly committed to the Fair Trade values
and works closely with growers as part of
their ethical co-operative. Betterday roasts
and packages their coffee and have a retail
outlet on Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho district, Hanoi.
Vietnam itself is in a much stronger
position than many other producing
countries. It looks after its coffee trade by
maintaining control in some areas, including
the export sector. When prices are considered
too low, Vietnam can act as a competitor in
the market by keeping back stock until the
prices are high enough again. The Vietnam
Coffee and Cocoa Association (VICOFA)
has also been able to act for the collective
health of the industry, tackling the issue of
quality, which can push down price. VICOFA
is taking steps to increase quality, such as
introducing a VND42,000 per tonne export
fee for Vietnamese companies which will
be put back into improving plant quality.
Another current proposal is to ensure that all
companies gain an agricultural management
and environmental certification from Good
Agriculture Practice (GAP), UTZ, Rainforest
or 4C.
These are examples of ways that some
individuals, companies and countries can
regain control, but there is a deep flaw in the
system itself. The world is moving rapidly in
one direction, away from group responsibility
and away from regulations and rules.
Freedom is the goal. But freedom comes at a
very high price, as were finding out.
May 2012 Word | 53

PHOTO BY FLIX LORRIO / ICEX
DESTINATION
OFF THE BEAT T
ravelling to a place with the sole
intention of treading an unbeaten
MADRID
path is a never a great idea. But
when that place is a bustling
European capital, how can anyone expect to
find somewhere fresh from the footfalls of
those whove gone before?
Its a good question. Expectations of
finding any sort of path, unbeaten or not, are
something Ive not only learned to let go of in
lieu of wandering Madrids city streets, but
also life in general. Sure its a bleak outlook,
but for other visitors trying to keep sane in
the Spanish capital, acting accordingly might
Like many big cities, Madrid reveals her secrets slowly and with be the best way forward.
And expectations or not, finding the
some eort as Madrid-based travel writer Will Peach nds out. beating pulse of this city remains very much
the crux of this offbeat guide. So with that at
Photos provided by Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade (ICEX) the forefront, should I give in to temptation
54 | Word May 2012
PHOTO BY FERNANDO MADARIAGA / ICEX
PHOTO BY FLIX LORRIO / ICEX
and begin my futile quest for the unbeaten
path in Madrids many raucous bars? Or,
better still, hope that it naturally unfurls
after a stroll around the green fields of Buen
Retiro Park?
Whichever way you look at it, its probably
HOW TO GET THERE
Indirect return with Qatar Air,
Air France, Emirates Airlines or
Vietnam Airlines. Prices range
from VND12 million to VND19
million before tax.
about time to make a start. So, lets do what
any other rational person would do. Lets put
it all off to go shopping instead.
Looking Up Skyward
Anyone familiar with Madrid and its maze
of backstreets will probably scoff at starting
out an expedition like this with an amble
down Gran Via, one of the citys liveliest and
best-known shopping districts. But the truth
is very few people look past the hotels, movie
theatres and boutique stores that populate it.
So with shopping a simple ruse fashioned
to check out the area, take a walk down Gran
Via along the Calle de Alcala and let it prove
to you my first point about finding any sense
of the unbeaten here in Madrid. That is, in
order to find a city that few others see, you
only really need look up.
May 2012 Word | 55

"Outdoors is where youre likely to find the
special parts of Madrid. And despite being
overshadowed by national rival Barcelona
when it comes to monuments of magnitude,
this city stills packs a decent punch"
And what better place to look than
skyward? Home to some of the citys most
stunning and iconic buildings, most visitors
to Madrid dont even bother to concern
themselves with early 20th century monoliths
like the Edificio Metropolis and the Edificio
Grassy that loom above.
But with art-deco bastions like The Capitol
on Plaza del Callao, Gran Via is an ideal
place to start marveling at the forgotten
architectural splendor of Madrid. Continue
walking down to the final part, the Plaza de
Espaa, and youll also find my favourite a busy flyover (youll have to walk a short
viewing spot in a city made more famous by
indoor worlds (those of taverns and tapas
bars) rather than those that live outside.
Outdoor Pleasures
Outdoors is where youre likely to find the
special parts of Madrid. And despite being
overshadowed by national rival Barcelona
when it comes to monuments of magnitude,
this city stills packs a decent punch. Continue
to head down Gran Via (with a stop off in
PHOTO BY FERNANDO MADARIAGA / ICEX
gargantuan book store Casa del Libro at Gran
Va, 29) along the Calle de Princessa and up to
the base of the Arco de la Victoria and you'll
see further examples.
Built in 1956 as a tribute to Francos
Nationalist army who rose to victory during
the Spanish civil war, the 39m-high Arco
(arch) serves as reminder of a fraught past
that many of Spains modern day visitors
56 | Word May 2012
PHOTO BY FLIX LORRIO / ICEX
dont know a shred about. Also referred to
by a large number of Madrids three-million
strong population by a different name
completely (to avoid association with the
dictator himself), dont be surprised if you
have difficulty finding this one either.
But where the Arco might not be the kind
of blink-and-you-miss-it spot you expect
to find off of a citys beaten track, Madrids
Museo al Aire Libre (Open Air Museum) is a
dead cert for any such list.
Situated beside Calle Serrano, beneath
follow a well trodden path.
while down Calle de Jose Abscal to find it),
here youll find 17 sculptures, each made
at the hands of a different Spanish artist.
The setting enables you to get up close and
personal with these cold bronze and steel
figures youll soon realise that this is about
as public as real art gets here at Museo al
Aire Libre.
Other Hidden Gems
If its art and culture you crave more of then
Madrid has plenty of other little-known gems
hidden away in other city pockets, too. One of
those options, the Museo Sorolla, the former
mansion home of Valencian artist Joaquin
Sorolla, offers a far more intimate look into
the life of a Madrid-based artisan than that
which you might see at the world famous
Prado or Reina Sofia.
Tread a little further, too, around the corner
from the Museo Sorolla and youll find two
other areas of the city largely ignored by the
tourist crowds.
Close to Goya metro station, the district of
Salamanca is home to one of the citys most
thriving local spots in the Mercado de la
Paz, an upscale market full of Spanish hams,
cheeses, fresh produce and seafood. Walking
around its circle of stores and eyeing its many
cafes, its a smart move to head and check out
Santa (Calle de Serrano, 56), one of Madrids
best-loved chocolate shops, that sits in the
heart of the neighbourhood.
Away from Salamanca, one of Madrids
other lesser-known treasures is the Malasaa
district. Similar to that of New Yorks East
Village or Londons Camden Town, this
neighbourhood boasts laid-back bars like La
Paca (Calle de Valverde, 36) and Lolina (Calle
del Espritu Santo, 9) , a host of secondhand
vintage clothes stores, quirky galleries and
booming nightclubs to party in away from
those of the centre that will burn your wallet
to a cinder.
Cover Your Tracks
Yet how can any true Madrid-based
adventure end without mention of two of
its finest features: food and drink. It's here,
that in respect of my opening sentences, the
problem of venturing off the beaten track
proves more troublesome still. After all,
recommend a restaurant that nobody knows
and people will start to get suspicious.
At the risk of upsetting the balance,
however, let me throw two propositions
into the mixer that might fit either end of the
spectrum. The first, Taberna de Cien Vinos
(100 Wines, Calle del Nuncio, 17), located in
La Latina, is a small dark den of debauchery
unknown to most despite serving up tasty
free pinchos and cheap raciones. The second,
Caf Moderno (Plaza Comendadoras, 1),
is more widely known, but still just as fun
thanks to a massive outdoor terrace, nightly
live music and twice-weekly literary recitals.
Recommending bars in a city that has
more per capita than anywhere else in
Europe is never going to be easy. Really
want to enjoy the best that Madrid has to
offer? Then do away with any attempt to
In a city like this, which has as much or
as little of anything you want, the path you
decide to tread is yours and nobody elses.
ACCOMODATION
The Westin Palace, Plaza de las Cortes, 7 (rooms
from VND3 million per night)
Hotel Vincci Capitol, Calle Gran Via, 41 (rooms from
VND1.3 million per night)
Petit Palace, Puerta del Sol (rooms from
VND840,000 per night)
For More Information
www.tourspain.es
May 2012 Word | 57
 "T
he people you work with are
people you were just thrown
together with. I mean, you
TIME & SPACE don't know them, it wasn't
your choice. And yet you spend more time
for the workers at the Hanoi Locomotive
Enterprise was built this is the place
where Vietnams trains go to be serviced.
Forty-four of the workers were chosen to
move into the building, so their place of
red and white wheels make this engine
more striking than any other train in the
yard, despite the thick layer of decay.
Its not hard to drive, says Hai San.
Then he reconsiders. Well, it depends

Home is Where
with them than you do your friends or
your family. So said Tim in the popular
UK TV show The Office. He probably
wasnt up for living in a collective society
where your work colleagues are your
work became where they lived, and their
colleagues became their family.
Lifelong Service
Nguyen Hai San was one of the workers
on the coal. A whole lot of coal. These
machines required 16 tons of the stuff just
to get from Hanoi to Ninh Binh. Vietnam
used to get its coal from China as they had
no foreign currency to buy anything else,

the Hearth is
Douglas Pyper meets residents and workers at Hanoi Locomotive
Enterprise a place where stepping out of bed and straight onto
the tracks is a way of life. Photos by Dominic Blewett
friends and family; you work together,
play together and live together.
This used to be the norm in Vietnam
as the authorities built housing schemes
for the workers in specific industries.
However, peoples occupations and
positions became fluid once market
reforms had been introduced. These
days you are no longer allocated a role in
society, you have to choose your own, and
so work-based collectives have become a
thing of the past.
One of the last such schemes to be
made is on Kham Thien. As late as 1996,
a good 10 years into the reforms first
initiated in the 1980s, a housing scheme
lucky enough to be chosen to move in.
Hes been working at the plant since 1973.
At that time Vietnam had no diesel so
steam trains were in use. The last of these
trains to be decommissioned still sits in a
small shed out the back of the Locomotive
Enterprise, waiting to be taken away to the
Hanoi Museum. Finally put out to pasture
in 2000, the beautifully decrepit machine
provided 80 or 90 years of service. A good
18 meters in length, 10 of these meters
accommodate the front furnace the back
seven metres of this area store the coal,
while a one-metre squared area of pipes,
valves, levers and dials is where the driver
sits. Its beautiful black paint with stylish
but strained ties in the late 1970s and 1980s
forced their hand and they began buying
higher grade coal from Australia much
to the pleasure of Hai San.
I loved my job, proclaims San. In
one day I could eat three meals in three
different provinces.
The Hanoi Locomotive Enterprise is
much like many other ageing industrial
area in the capital. Built at the same time
as Long Bien Bridge in 1901 by the French,
the site has changed a lot since then, yet
at the same time, the ghost of yesteryear
is everywhere. Deputy Director Nguyen
Hong Tien has been working here since
1973. Hes more than happy to turn on the

58 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 59

 In the wheel original railway turntable, a throwback
from the steam era when trains couldnt
manufacturing shed go in reverse for long. Its never been
replaced, only repaired, and still has the
there is a smorgasbord original 100-year-old wooden sleepers.
of aging machinery Friend and Foe
which acts like a who's The site still has two original French sheds
in use, one to make and repair wheels,
who of Vietnamese the other to repair engines and chassis.
In the wheel manufacturing shed there is
international relations a smorgasbord of old machinery which
acts like a whos who of Vietnamese
in the 20th century. international relations in the 20th century.
Chinese, German, French, American,
Chinese, German, Vietnamese, Russian and Czechoslovak
French, American, technology hums away in the shed.
Sagging wires lead to bald light bulbs
Vietnamese, Russian around which men cluster, punching holes
in metal discs, cigarettes and spectacles
and Czechoslovak hanging off their faces. One particularly
old French piece, older than anyone who
technology hums away works at the plant, is reapplying friction
to the wheel sets. Each two-ton set rotates
in the shed. slowly on the ageing machine it grinds
out fresh grooves, while thick black oil
pours gorily over the formerly red paint.
Despite the no smoking signs, Tien pats
down passing workers for spare tabs. He,
too, lives in the housing scheme and seems
to be on cheery terms with everyone. He
60 | Word May 2012
shows us round the on-site ping pong
club, the tennis courts, the badminton and
volleyball courts. The complex seems to
be so completely self-sufficient that its a
wonder anyone ever leaves. Living here,
working here, playing here, exercising
here, eating here youd expect the
workers to be stir crazy. Not Tien.
Its great living here, he says, I never
have to waste money on petrol. I can go
out after work easily the only thing is
its easy for the wife to keep tabs on me.
As I press for some negatives to the
situation, both Tien and Hai San dont
even seem to grasp what I might be BIKE SPECIAL
on about, they look at each other a bit
ELECTRIC LOVE
confused. I like living here, Hai San says
simply. And when you think about it, why
wouldnt they? Its clean, friendly, easy to
get to work, safe, located in the centre of
the city and free.
While leaving, visitors pass by a
monument to the sites heroic workers in
the form of a wheel set, well maintained
under a shady banyan tree. Honoured for
continuing to work under the threat of
A romance spanning 22,000 kilometres, Kaitlin Rees traces the
bombing during the war, the monument
was commissioned and built by the
tracks that crossed and brought one bicycle-loving couple together.
workers themselves. Something which
shows a strength of community which Tim
photos by Aaron Joel Santos
from The Office might not understand.
May 2012 Word | 61

"I
t all started with me living and
working in Beijing, says Barcelona
native Gium Valls Teruel. I was
managing a fine dining restaurant
when I discovered electric bicycles.
Ranking the electric bike as the best
purchase of his life, sat on his pedal-
assisted, battery-operated machine he
kept uncovering new benefits. He could
still exercise (without so much sweat),
he could carry heavier loads, there were
no emissions, it didnt make a noise and
he could take the vehicle anywhere.
Eventually it got serious.
One day I woke up and decided I was
going to tour the world on an electric
bicycle, he says. To do this he would travel
with a solar panel trailer to charge his bike
and promote the sustainability factor.
So he quit his job, sold his belongings
and in June of 2009, set off from Beijing and
journeyed to South Korea, Japan, China,
Hong Kong and Vietnam.
The Game Changer
In September 2009 Gium rolled into Hanoi.
I was interviewed by VTV 6 and I fell in
love with the journalist, he recalls. I was
supposed to stay for two days but I stayed
for three weeks. And then this girl, she
kicked me out. She was like, Who the hell
is this guy on a bicycle? So I kept going,
kept cycling along.
With a slightly heavier heart, Gium
continued on through Vietnam to
Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia,
New Zealand and Australia. It was while
in Australia after a year of talking nearly
every day with the journalist who had
cast him away that the what if? question
erupted. I got that feeling that I needed to
know what would happen if one day we
kissed. I didnt know if Id stop my world
tour, I just needed to know what would
happen.
So Gium returned to Vietnam and it
62 | Word May 2012
Just as the electric bicycle
is neither a motorbike nor
a bicycle, the Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is neither a caf nor a
shop but a hybrid space.
happened as it happened.
After that, a second big what if? unfolded.
I said, what if we get married and I get a
second bicycle for you and you come with
me? She said ok.
Conception
Along the way from Vietnam to Spain
Italy to be exact a new life entered the
story. After a few months of cycling for two,
Giums wife decided to go and wait for him
at their eventual destination of Barcelona.
When Gium later arrived by bicycle, the
couple packed their bikes and travelled
back to Hanoi to start their family.
With the tour complete, Gium looked
back at his journey and saw the incredible
amount of promotion he had been doing
for electric bikes. He had asked everyone he
met along the 22,000 kilometres to hop on
and try the bike.
I realised that electric bicycles gave
people these electric smiles, he explains.
There is nothing better in life than doing
something that makes people smile. When
you find something like this you have no
other choice than to keep spreading the
word about it, because its something that
benefits everyone.
And thus an idea was formed: the Hanoi
Bicycle Collective.
Inception
The 22 day-old baby is upstairs and Gium
is downstairs waiting for new tabletops to
arrive for the caf portion of his bike shop.
After four months of renovations, he is set
to open in a few days and the place pulses
with potential energy. Just as the electric
bicycle is neither a motorbike nor a bicycle,
the Hanoi Bicycle Collective is neither a
caf nor a shop but a hybrid space.
High ceilings with elegant crown molding,
walls lined with bicycles for sale, parking
spots, a repair station, a bar at which to sip
gin and tonics, tables to eat sandwiches, a
stage area to hear music, poetry or someone
talking about their bike; the place is certainly
the first of its kind in Hanoi.
To Gium, the electric bike is the definition
of compromise and benefit. The vehicle that
makes you feel like a superman is also
emission free charged for three-and-a-
half hours it can travel 90 kilometres. Its
low cost and promotes physical health. In a
city where most already go around on two
wheels, to Gium these are the better wheels
to use.
You have to contribute a little bit, he
says. You cant say, oh its terrible, theres
never a blue sky in Hanoi, its so hot, and
then ride a motorbike. No way. There is no
in-between when going from not polluting
and doing exercise to polluting and not
moving your legs. We need to think a little
bit. There are solutions.
And the electric bike is one solution. Yet
Gium is not radically opposed to petrol-
powered means of transport when necessary.
You can keep going by motorbike, its not
a problem, he says. But instead of going
everywhere by motorbike, seven days a
week, try those moments in the evenings or
in the mornings when its not that hot to ride
your bicycle instead of your motorbike. Or if
you just ride your bike on Sundays good! If
everyone does a little little
But for those who arent seduced by the
environment or exercise benefits, bikes
have got their social cache as well. As with
the brightly coloured and potentially pricey
fixed gear bicycles, fashion and status can
speak volumes. And if thats what youre
after and youre getting on a bike for it,
no matter. The Hanoi Bicycle Collectives
common denominator is bicycles and all
numerators are welcome.
The Hanoi Bicycle Collective is at number
44, Alley 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Hours are
tentatively 7am to 9pm, with breakfast and coffee
on offer as well as sandwiches and gin and tonics.
Bike rentals are also available.
May 2012 Word | 63

ON THE PEDAL
There is an aura about two or four-wheel vehicles that can get
people transxed. Kaitlin Rees talks to lovers of the hardy bicycle.
Photo by Aaron Joel Santos
The Collectors
Like many people, Tam and Long started
riding motorbikes when they went to
university, but a few years ago, the couple
decided to return to the beloved bicycle.
The 36-year-old couple recall a string
of beauties they have owned since they
were kids. At 12 years old, Tam cruised
to elementary school on an orange
Vietnamese mini, and 10-year-old Long
peddled around a handmade Saigon
clunker. Tams family eventually shelled
out for a Peugeot and a Mifa, while Longs
Eskar and Favorit were his steps up in the
cycling world.
Before, mostly foreigners went by
bicycle, but in the last few years, more
Hanoians have been using bikes, explains
Long. People see them more. We see them
on the internet, in stores, and more of our
friends are buying bicycles.
An active member of the Vespa club, he
adds: In the Vespa club, the people are
always looking for rare and vintage items
and they are willing to pay. I think that for
the bicycle it is the same.
Zen and the Art of it
Shop owner Ton spent years playing tennis,
golf, swimming and walking. Eventually,
after too much sport and a back injury,
Ton turned to bicycles and soon realised
there was an obvious shortage of stores
and repair shops in Hanoi.
For Ton, its all about the process. I
work with bikes A to Z, he says, which
means customers who come in for a bike
tune up are invited to spend the next three
hours learning about their machines while
he and his staff tinker away.
I dont only sell bikes, he adds. I want
my customers to understand bikes, what is
important and how they work it takes
time.
Though there are plenty of places to
buy cheaper bikes, or famous brand name
bikes, Ton enjoys being able to put his
64 | Word May 2012
BIKE SPECIAL
own concepts into bike construction and
maintenance.
This attention to detail and quality goes
into all the products at the bike store. Before
importing something, Ton likes to hold it
in his hands, explaining that for him a
picture is not enough. So once a month he
travels abroad in search of new materials.
At Antons Bike Store, customers come
in for tune-up tutorials, repairs or to buy
one of the new or used bikes. Tons got
classic vintage designs for amateur riders,
mountain bikes for those who like a strong
frame and road bikes for those of the
professional persuasion. Hes also got hot
tea for those on loops around West Lake.
Antons Bike Store can be found at number
21, Alley 150 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Extreme Cycling
Around 6am, most of us are dreaming
about our teeth falling out or about being
naked in public, but a group of eight early
morning speed demons are throwing
their legs over their bikes and heading
off for a daybreak break-neck expedition.
From Veggys on Xuan Dieu to Thang
Long Bridge, the group manages to cover
around 30km by looping their route
several times of a morning, before arriving
back at Kitchen in time for coffee with us
mere mortals.
With the group meeting up three times a
week to repeat this journey, its no wonder
that many come away scarred, bruised
and bleeding after numerous collisions
with motorbikes. This same fraternity of
bike lovers also bolt approximately 20 km
around West Lake in a not-too-shoddy
35 minutes. As if that wasnt enough to
feed a love of cycling, they have also been
known to tear from Hanoi to Ba Vi in just
three hours, followed by a grueling 12km
hike up the mountain, which can take an
additional 90 minutes.
If you like the idea of getting up early and
putting yourself through this kind of fresh hell,
try and catch up with these punishing pedalers
from 6am outside Veggys, 99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Rippling Calves
Just down the road from Anton is a similar
new and used bike store and repair shop.
Owner of the rhythmically named shop is
Tuan, a local celebrity in the bike-racing
world. The fashion at Xe Dap The Thao Cao
Cap is decidedly sporty. One such spandex
clad customer named Tao is among the
dedicated weekend 200km riders who ride to
places like Tam Dao, Ba Vi, Son Tay and Bac
Ninh. Tao says there are many such groups
addicted to this punishment and reward
lifestyle, which meet for weekend jaunts or
early morning West Lake laps.
Yet Tao imagines the biking population
will stretch (just like his neon blue shorts) to
include a wider range of people interested in
bikes in the near future.
Vietnam is developing and lots of people
are wanting to take better care of themselves
and their environment, he explains. Hanoi
is a small city where its possible to ride
around, and I think that local people will
want to do that more.
Xe Dap The Thao Cao Cap is at 114B Yen Phu,
Tay Ho
Bike Free Hanoi
In the mix of vintage collectors and super
athletes is a newly sprouted non-profit
organisation working to make bicycling a
more major mode of transportation. Bike
Free wishes to spotlight the reasons to get on
a bike, like the low environmental impact,
health benefits, and cheapness. Through a
purple plate and sticker system, Bike Frees
logo will be seen attached to members' bikes
meandering down streets and in supporting
establishments. With the purchase of one
plate, cyclists get a free one to give to a fellow
biker as a means of building a community
around bicycle riding. Bike on.
Check out www.bikefree.vn/ for more
information
May 2012 Word | 65

ON THE ROAD
The Test
Tired of breaking the law every day, one intrepid biker takes
the gure-of-eight challenge, with a view to nally going legal.
Words and photos by Dominic Blewett
I
ts a grey, wintry morning. Ive driven documents I feel like Ive signed. But the
to the Driving Test Centre on Quoc first time I really felt like I was on the
Tu Giam and Im standing with a few way to taking the test was when I got my
hundred other people waiting for my health check.
number to be called out. It took place in a hospital on Ly Thuong
For some reason I thought there Kiet in a room specifically for checking
wouldnt be many other people here. I the roadworthiness of those who want to
dont think Ive ever met anyone whos drive. I was weighed and measured. The
taken the motorbike driving test, and Ive doctor who took my height did it sitting
asked almost everybody. But there are a lot down which meant that she only brought
of us, all waiting for the men at the desks the bar down to the top of my hair, giving
at the front of the hall to call our name me two extra centimetres. I had my eyes
and number. They seem stressed, shuffling tested. Sitting a couple of metres away
through piles of papers, telling people who from the chart, you have to cover first
approach them too soon to go away. your left eye with a small paddle, then
your right, and read down a table of
The Medical ever-shrinking u-shapes which point in
It feels like its taken a lifetime to get here. different directions: up, down, left, right.
It started when I went to get my passport The woman in front of me took her
photo taken to affix to the millions of glasses off and started the test. With her
66 | Word May 2012
right eye she could see only the first row
of shapes. With the left, nothing. She
was nearly blind. I watched the doctor
write some numbers and squiggles on the
womans documents. Then it was my turn.
I get further with my left eye than with my
right, which I expected. I watch the doctor
fill in my form with what looked like
the same numbers and squiggles as the
woman before me. Did she pass? Did I?
Ok, khong? I asked.
Ok, rat tot, replied the doctor.
Maybe it was a hand-eye coordination test
then. Maybe you dont need to see at all.
Pieces of Eight
There are a few other foreigners at the Test
Centre five or six, including one, Lars,
who Ive met before. The deskmen are now
starting to call our names out. A couple of
young men, there for the test, get excited and
start to call out some of the western names
they know, with varying degrees of success.
Wayne Rooney Beckham, David
Beckham Park Ji-Sung.
We collect our forms from a round
woman with a cataract in her left eye.
Shes barking orders at the deskmen,
taking control of them, us, and our
documents. She leads us outside and
then, strangely, for a moment she seems
panicked.
Ive lost the Tays, she says, looking around,
behind her, right at us. Where are they?
Its ok. Were here.
She leads us to an office for more
rustling and stamping of documents. She
moves us around, stopping only to chide
Lars wife, Thuy, for not taking care of
us. At this point weve all been here for
more than an hour and a half and theres
not even been a hint of a motorbike
other than the ones we all drove here on.
Finally its time. Were led to a yard
with a figure of eight and three obstacles
painted on it; a straight line, a boxed
area to thread left and right through, and
a straight line with raised bumps. Five
Honda Waves are idling by the entrance
to the eight and a line of three judges at
a desk under an umbrella are waiting for
all the documented people to arrive. First
up is a young man. He looks nervous but
manages to get around the eight. Next, a
girl. Shaky, but she does ok.
In my hand Im holding my fresh
documents and two other things. The first
are the instructions drawn by the woman
who set up this test for me.
I confess I laughed when I saw what Id
have to do. Ive never driven a figure eight
in Hanoi, or on a clear road. Where is the
driver about to pull into the traffic without
using their mirrors? Where is the vegetable
vendor on a bicycle with no brakes wholl
shoot in a straight line across several lanes
of traffic without looking? Where is the
sudden hole in the ground marked only by
a plastic bag-topped twig? Also, why are
we doing this test one by one? Surely we
should do it all together?
My hands are slightly numb. Im getting
nervous.
A Not So Fine Line
A girl in a red jacket drives on to the eight.
Shes all over the place. She keeps putting
her feet down, wobbling outside of the lines.
Before she makes it halfway around the
eight, she fails and the bike is taken off her.
She walks out of the yard and stands behind
the railings looking pale and confused. I
hope she didnt come here by motorbike.
Another failure: a man goes the wrong
way around the eight. I thought it was
impossible to fail this test at least thats drive a machine while looking neither left
what I was told. I know I can drive around
these simple obstacles. No problem. The
first foreigner, Lars, does the test. A little
cheer. He passes. Next, a girl wobbles all
over the eight, outside the lines, putting
her feet down. The instructor doesnt seem
to know what to do. Should he fail her?
How flexible are the rules? He looks over
anxiously at the judges. They give him
nothing. She passes. Then another failure:
a man drives across the yard, completely
missing the figure eight.
Its my turn.
The eight is no problem. A bit tighter
than it looks, and I dont like all these
eyes on me, but its done. However, like
an idiot, when I get to the three other
obstacles I gun the engine and do them
as fast as I possibly can. I rattle over
the bumps of the last one and steam
around the outside of the yard, back to
the beginning, as if Im on a victory lap.
I stride confidently over to the judges,
grinning like a fool.
Khong! the first judge says. Nhanh qua!
My heart sinks. Im going to have to
do this all over again. The judge is still
looking at me, shaking his head as he
passes my documents down the line. They
get stamped and I go back to stand with
Lars and Thuy.
However, in spite of my cocky drive I
have a sneaky feeling I might have passed,
which Thuy confirms. Success. I need to
come back in a week and get my license.
A week later Im back at the centre being
handed my new motorbike license. Its
real. I had shown the judges that I could
nor right but only straight ahead. Were
roadworthy. Were ready. We get on my
bike and go.
To apply for a driving license, go to
the Centre for Automotive Training and
Mechanism, 83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem.
Tel: 3942 2715. To apply for a temporary
Vietnamese driving license based on your
existing overseas license, you will need a
resident permit. The application can be made at
the Office of Traffic & Public Works, 16 Cao Ba
Quat, Ba Dinh.
May 2012 Word | 67
R O
en seems to have
developed a reputation
as one of Hanois leading
Japanese restaurants
based on that good old-fashioned
trait of reliability. On hearing fans
of Ren state that it was established
by the former cook to the Japanese
Ambassador, its unlikely that youre
going to get something shoddy
being passed off as Japanese fare.
Hanoi seems awash with Japanese
restaurants with the almost painfully
chic Trieu Viet Vuong/Mai Hac De/
Japanese restaurants, our undercover
Bui Thuy Xuan hipster zone being
home to its fair share of mewling
upstarts. But on this street, which
predominantly consists of metal and
lid on one of the communitys most
electrical wire workshops, Ren sticks
out a like a prim aunt at a stag party,
with its subdued entrance shielding
it from the rawness of outside.
Interior-wise, Ren is no great
shakes. It suffers just a little from ricocheting
acoustics provided by the sparse setting.
But then after the plethora of Japanese
dining places that seem to have spent more
on their interior fittings than on their staff
training or food, its something of a relief
to enjoy the pleasant understated Japanese-
English-Vietnamese trilingual staff, who
excel at delivering food in a graceful and
unobtrusive fashion and take orders with a
minimum of fuss.
More Than Meets the Eye
Despite being tempted by the seriously good
value lunchtime box meal deals (that sounds
horrifically close to something McDonalds
might churn out I confess), we went for
a range of a la carte options. First up was
the gyu tataki (VND116,000) grilled beef
with vegetables. Although it didnt bear any
resemblance to the image on the menu (yes,
68 | Word May 2012
MYSTERY DINER
Setting the
Standard
In a city that has no shortage of
reviewer lifts the steamy bamboo
talked-about outlets.
Photos by Dominic Blewett
Im ashamed to admit I still use the menu
with pictures!), it proved to be a stupendously
throne, the unassuming Ren continues to
mouthwatering delight, scattered with
deliver the goods, as underscored by its
sesame seeds, fried garlic and onions, all
continued popularity with the local Japanese
combined with a sweet and salty dressing.
community. Definitely worth another visit.
Ive always been fascinated by the
Japanese interpretation of western style
dishes (Japanese pizza? Kebabs? Fried potato
croquettes? Yes please!), so it wasnt difficult
to plump for the highly unhealthy, silky
textured mashed potato salad (VND74,000),
which took things up a notch with the
inclusion of spring onions, shaved carrot,
diced cucumber and an unidentifiable
creaminess that pointed at either mayonnaise
or sour cream. A guilty pleasure. To balance
the stodge we ensured we took our greens
with a bowl of salty edamame (VND74,000).
The deep fried pork with minced leeks was
another hit, the sweated leeks setting off the
The Word reviews anonymously
moist crumbed pork (VND158,000). Then
for a bit of variety we sampled the
California rolls (VND179,000) which
were small, one-bite affairs, which
only meant scoring more marks.
The flavours of crab, fish roe and
avocado and salty seaweed were
clearly able to bounce off each other,
unlike many of the monstrosities
at other establishments where you
look like a complete fool as they
spontaneously collapse. Still feeling
a bit peckish we went for the good
value seafood rice (VND148,000)
which presented choice cuts of tuna,
salmon, octopus and red snapper
on a bed of sushi rice and served in
a steam basket. No complaints and
a different way of getting a sushi
fix. Finally I couldnt leave the udon
noodles (VND116,000). Served up
in a refreshing broth, they proved a
fitting, subtle conclusion to a very
enjoyable meal.
While pretenders may vie for the
Ren, 8A Hang Chao, Dong Da. Tel: 3733 8550
THE VERDICT
Food, Decor and Service are
13
each rated on a scale of 0
to 15.
13 15 extraordinary to FOOD
perfection
11
10 12.5 very good to
excellent
8 9.5 good to very good
5 7.5 fair to good SERVICE
9
0 4.5 poor to fair
and pays for all meals DCOR
n Phung Hung not
the Phung Hung that
Bun and the Art
you probably drive
down, but the Phung
Hung that runs parallel to that.
of Motorcycle
The other Phung Hung, the one
thats behind the railway tracks
and the green-painted corrugated
Maintenance
tin huts selling things of blood,
not in front of them. This Phung
Hung (the even-numbered Phung
Hung) mirrors the other Phung
Hung in that its also lined on its
left-hand side with green-painted
corrugated tin huts selling things
of blood. And behind one of these
huts there is something that, like
the street, also mirrors, splits and
combines something familiar.
The air is blue with smoke from meat
on the barbeque. Co Tuyet is dishing out
breakfast to her customers. Its bun cha, but
its the other bun cha, not the bun cha you
normally eat another bun cha. Its bun
rieu, but its the other bun rieu, not the bun
rieu youre used to another bun rieu. Its
neither. Its both. Its bun cha rieu.
At first I thought this was Co Tuyets
story. Of course, it is, but its also someone
elses. Around twenty years ago, Co Tuyet
sold bun cha and bun rieu separately (she still
does). But in the first few days of her food
stall there arrived a customer; a man, a local
motorcycle dealer well call him Thomas
Phaedrus Jefferson, or Thomas.
Thomas asked to combine the two
traditional dishes in one bowl. He loved it.
Co Tuyet tried his invention. She loved it too
and added it to the menu (which is written
in the air). Her customers love it so much
that no-one ever orders anything else now.
STREET SNACKER
Words by Phillip Turo.
Photos by Dominic Blewett
Her family loves it so much that they eat it
every morning. Thomas still loves it so much
that he frequently comes back to munch on
his own idea. I also love it very much and
am eating it right now.
The tomato-rich broth has little bits
of marinated pork fat floating in it, and
comparatively large slabs of crab-stuff. So
often the crab-stuff in bun rieu is flaky and
collects at the bottom of the bowl in a kind
of orange gruel that smells of unhappy
childhood beach trips. Not here. It stays
firm and can be picked up in hunks with the
other ingredients. The reason for this, sayeth
Co Tuyet, is that she uses fresh crab and
doesnt mix it with tofu like other merchants
might. Another reason for the dishs mad
deliciousness is this: the cha is cooked in
Ye Olden Style on bamboo sticks rather
than encased in wire. This lends the pork a
smokiness that you wont find at other bun
cha stalls. Not that this is bun cha or bun rieu
(I think weve been over this).
Ive finally finished my breakfast.
Halfway through, Co Tuyet pours in another
large ladle of broth. Im very full.
I have a few questions to ask
her: questions about fear, about
invention, success, replication,
the future, and about a perhaps
perceived desecration of a much-
loved but often rigid cuisine.
This, if youll allow me partly to
paraphrase, partly to invent, is
what she had to say:
If people want to copy, let
them copy. They may succeed,
they may not. You cant use one
hand to cover the whole sky.
A motorcycle is made of many
parts its a system. A dish
is the same, whether new or
old its a system of interdependent parts.
But these can change. We can take classic
dishes, classic knowledge and, through
the Romanticism of invention, turn them
into something that is both themselves and
something else. That is progress. That is a
journey. That, my child, is the definition of
Quality.
She motions to the raised train tracks that
run behind her, invisible from where we sit,
and says: A train isnt a train if it cant go
anywhere.
I agree. And if Thomas Phaedrus Jefferson
were here with me on the Phung Hung
That Is Not Phung Hung But Is, eating his
delicious invention, which is and isnt and is
what it is, I imagine hed say the same thing.
Tuyet Bun Cha Rieu, 12 Phung Hung (directly
behind butcher stall number 59). Open from
6.30am to 10.30am or until finished (often all gone
by 9am). Cost: VND20,000 per bowl Thank you
to Mark at www.stickyrice.typepad.com for the
virtual heads up on this place.
May 2012 Word | 69
 BUSINESS
City Guide
LISTINGS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING 071
ADVERTISING & MARKETING 071
BUSINESS CONSULTING 071
BUSINESS GROUPS 071
COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY 072
BUSINESS LISTINGS 071 / DESTINATION LISTINGS 075 / OUT & ABOUT CORPORATE GIFTS 072
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE 072
LISTINGS 082 / LEISURE & ARTS LISTINGS 092 / FASHION LISTINGS 095 / INSURANCE 072
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 072
HOME LISTINGS 097 / MEDICAL LISTINGS 099 INVESTMENT & FINANCE 073
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS 073
PHOTO BY DOMINIC BLEWETT
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING
BEVERLY INVESTMENT
Room 919, Suite 8, Song Da Building, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Tel: 794 9669
www.beverly.vn
Professional investment company dealing
with real estate resort, hotel and senior
housing projects all over the country.
Working to promote sustainable develop-
ment, Beverly provides good value for
its partners, investors, customers and
society.
TMF GROUP
Unit 06-023, 6th Floor, Prime Center Building, 53
Quang Trung, Ha Dong
8th Floor, 53 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3944 9733
39A Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 2660
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon Trade Center
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, HCMC, Tel: 3910 2262
www.tmf-group.com
TMF is headquartered in the Netherlands,
with over 100 offices in 75 countries. Pro-
vides accounting, tax and payroll services.
Also specialises in helping international
investors establish a presence in Vietnam.
This includes services such as incorpora-
tion of companies and representative of-
fices, opening of bank accounts, licensing
and tax stamps.
KPMG
16th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1600
www.kpmg.com.vn
Worldwide firm specialising in auditing,
accounting, tax and management consult-
ing services. Also does executive search
and selection.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS
7th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem . Tel: 3946 2246
www.pwc.com
A D D ITIONA L FE AT URE S Provides business services including au-
diting, business and technology solutions
and tax and legal consulting. Has more
Business Buff 073
than ten years experience in Vietnam
and works in all major industry sectors
throughout the country.
Destination Zero 076
THANG LONG AUDITING COMPANY
23 Tran Duy Hung, Trung Hoa, Cau Giay
Tel: 4976 2055
Food Buff 086 A Vietnamese company with more than
30 representative branches outside of
Hanoi, Thang Long provides a full range
Music Buff 089 of services, including audit, accounting,
tax, corporate secretarial and business
consultancy.
Cinema Buff 094
TMF VIETNAM COMPANY LIMITED
2811, Saigon Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Book Buff 098
Q1, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: 3910 922
www.tmf-group.com
With over 3,300 professionals working out
Medical Buff 100
70 | Word May 2012
visit wordhanoi.com
for a comprehensive
list of our listings STUDIO TADA
LEGAL SERVICES 073
MANAGEMENT TRAINING 074
MARKET RESEARCH 074
PUBLIC 074
RECRUITMENT & HR 074
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS 074
SERVICED APARTMENTS 074
ARTICES
BUSINESS BUFF 073
of 86 offices in 65 countries, TMF provides
independent accounting and corporate
secretarial services to companies world-
wide. TMF is expanding rapidly throughout
the world. Learn more about our unique
network and our services by visiting our
website.
ADVERTISING & MARKETING
CRUNCHY FROG
8 Xom Chua, Tay Ho, Tel: 01283 443579
www.crunchyfrogdesign.com
Crunchy Frog is a personable and
experienced western design and branding
agency. They offer high quality creative
and strategic solutions to both local and
global clients. Services include research,
brand and marketing strategy, and design
of communications materials, brand
identity, packaging and websites.
GREY GROUP
10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 1459
www.grey.com/vietnam
Founded in 1917 in New York, Grey is a full
spectrum global communications company
offering branding, advertising, marketing,
digital, and PR, with offices in 100
countries. Grey is the only agency with a
specialised HoReCa team. In Vietnam, the
client roster includes Nike, Vinaphone,
Levis, TNT, ESPN, Bayer, Samsung Mobile,
BaoViet, P&G, BAT, and 35 other top local
and international brands.
LEONITO
10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 1459
www.leonito.com
In addition to their own clients, Leonito
works in partnership with the Grey Group,
a major full-spectrum marketing and
communications company with offices
in nearly 100 countries. Services include
research, branding, activations, events
and public relations.
LEONITO MARKETING CONSULTING
10 Ho Ham Long Alley, Lane 1 Au Co Street, Tay
Ho, Tel: 3719 1459
www.leonito.com
Leonito develops marketing campaigns
& behaviour change communications
strategies for commercial brands and non-
government organizations. Services: brand
development; design & printing; gifts &
premiums; marketing; public relations
& events. Clients include multi-national
brands and NGOs.
OGILVY & MATHER
8/F Tien Phong Newspaper Building, 15 Ho
Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3822 3914
www.ogilvy.com
International marketing communications
company that leverages the brands of
multinational clients by combining local
know-how with a worldwide network.
Works to create powerful campaigns that
address local market needs while still
reinforcing universal brand identity.
2nd floor, 63 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem Tel:
2246 0682
www.studiotada.com
A small, young and elite designing and
branding agency that has been working
with well-known local and global brands
like DMC, Hermes, Kenzo and Porsche.
The company offers services in branding,
event, print and digital. With a youthful,
energetic and experienced team, Tada has
played an important part in international
graphic design and advertising projects
across Vietnam and France.
T&A OGILVY JVC LTD.
3rd Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 6008
T&A is a marketing services company set
up in Hanoi in 1995. Since then, theyve
offered their marketing services to several
large overseas companies. They also work
in co-operation with WPP, a world-wide
brand communications firm.
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BOOZ ALLEN HAMILTON, INC.
Room 703, 7th Floor, MOF Project Building, No.
4, Lane 1, Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3971 9662
www.boozallen.com
A US-based private consulting firm, Booz
Allen Hamilton is one of the most notable
names in the business. This firm has a
long track record of assisting governments
and multi-nationals in risk assessment
and mission development.
DELOITTE
8 Pham Ngoc Thach, Dong Da, Tel: 3852 4123
www.deloitte.com
One of the Big Four, this firm offers a
broad range of audit, tax, consulting,
risk, and financial advice to businesses.
Over 182,000 employees in more than 150
countries, Deloitte serve more than 80
percent of the world's largest companies,
Vietnam now being one of them.
DICKERSON KNIGHT GROUP
33A Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3933 2692
www.thinkdkg.com
Established in 1991, this international firm
has extensive experience in emerging
markets. Their speciality is in providing
advisory and training products to private
sector enterprises and NGOs.
ERNST & YOUNG
Daeha Business Centre, 15th Floor, 360 Kim Ma
Street, Ba Dinh, Tel: 4831 5100
www.ey.com
Provides a broad spectrum of services to
help businesses capitalize on oppor-
tunities for growth, improve financial
performance and manage risk. Works with
a range of firms including private, state-
owned and foreign.
T&C INVESTMENT HOLDING
L3-14 Thuy Khue. Ba Dinh, Tel: 3728 0776
www.t-cgroup.com
A well-known Vietnamese conglomerate
of companies operating since 1994,
T&Cs focus is on providing international-
standard consultation to engineering and
infrastructure projects. They also provide
market research consulting.
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
M Floor, Business Center, Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1
Le Thanh Tong
Tel: 3934 2790
www.amchamhanoi.com
An independent association of American
May 2012 Word | 71
and international businesses, the
objective of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to promote trade
and investment between the United States
and Vietnam.
AUSCHAM
Room 2707, 1010 Lang Ha, Dong Da
Tel: 3562 5786 ext. 107
www.auschamvn.org
An organisation bringing together
Australian companies and individuals
doing business in Vietnam, the Australian
Chamber of Commerce offers advice on
doing business. Also offers networking
opportunities and social events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF
VIETNAM
193B Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 0906 240159
www.bbgv.org
The first foreign business group to set up
in Vietnam, BBGVs goal is to both pro-
mote the interests of its members as well
as the more general interests of British
business. Organises business luncheons
and seminars as well as regular social and
networking events.
ICHAM
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1 Thanh nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2393
www.icham.org
The Chamber has the main purpose of
undertaking activities to support com-
mercial exchanges with Italy and to assist
economic agents, as well as to foster the
development of economic relations and
cooperation among entrepreneurs of the
various countries. The Chamber will not
engage in commercial activities with the
aim of producing profits.
HANOI WEBSITES
HANOIGRAPEVINE.COM
The place to go for all things related to the
arts in a city that is developing its own,
vibrant contemporary arts scene. Has event
calendars, event postings, blogs, addresses
and contact details, and covers anything
from classical music through to installations,
rock concerts and more.
INFOSHAREHANOI.COM
Provides the expat community with essential
information for living and working in Hanoi
including comprehensive and up-to-date
events listings as well as address lists of
galleries, cinemas, theatres, hotels, housing
agencies, embassies and much more.
Subscribe to receive their weekly newsletter.
LINKHANOI.COM
Event photos, a whats on calendar,
restaurant and bar listings and in fact,
pretty much everything you want to know
about nightlife in Hanoi can be found on
this popular website. Also organize regular
events and parties.
NEWHANOIAN.COM
The citys best known website, The New
Hanoian provides user-generated listings,
reviews and event information on pretty
much anything and everything in the capital.
Register, create your profile, write a review
and receive frequent newsletters.
WORDHANOI.COM
The online extension of The Word, contains
both content from the print edition as
well as blogs, events, news, a whats on
calendar, party photos and much more. Also
has downloadable PDF versions of the whole
publication.
72 | Word May 2012
LAC VIET COMPUTING CORP
Hanico Building 110 Thai Thinh, Dong Da
Tel: 3512 1846
www.lacviet.com.vn
Since its founding in 1994, professional
services and innovative solutions has
led LAC VIET to a recognized position of
leadership in Vietnam. LAC VIET employs
more than 400 professionals in IT services
and product development. LAC VIET is a
certified MicrosoftTM Gold Partner; Cis-
coTM Premier Reseller; Dell Distributor and
Authorised Service Provider(DASP).
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 2229
www.ccifv.org
A business group with over 240 members
that supports the French business com-
munity in Vietnam by listening to their
members needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French companies
and helps them in developing their busi-
nesses here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 2228
www.eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation with strong
ties to national business associations in
its member countries, Eurocham looks
after and provides advice and support for
the business interests of European Union
members in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
Suite 504, Thanh Ha Building, Linh Dam
Tel: 3641 6864
www.nordchamhn.org.vn
Provides support to Nordic companies
and individuals operating in Vietnam. A
business and social network, members
have the opportunity to meet, discuss,
interact and share expertise and
experience.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS
ASSOCIATION VIETNAM
Business Center, Ground Floor, Fortuna Hotel,
6B Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: 4772 0833
www.sbav-hanoi.org
An association that actively fosters busi-
ness relations with other business com-
munities while promoting social, cultural,
recreational, educational and charitable
activities.
COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY
NOI PICTURES
25/158 Ngoc Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3747 8611
noipictures@noipictures.com
www.noipictures.com
Photography and film agency specialising
in commercial assignments, stock photog-
raphy and production services in Vietnam.
Has a number of mainly overseas photog-
raphers in their books both in Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City.
CORPORATE GIFTS
REGAL PREMIUMS
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 0685 7167
www.regalvietnam.com
Regal Premiums produces trendy corpo-
rate gifts, premiums gifts, promotional
gifts and branded mass giveaway items.
Professional team helps with design to fit
your brand and production and logistics to
fit your budget.
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE
CB RICHARD ELLIS (VIETNAM) CO.,
LTD
6 Floor, BIDV Tower,194 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 0220
www.cbrevietnam.com
Finding the perfect accommodation to
meet your various demands in Hanoi is
made simple thanks to CBREs residential
leasing team. Our services are inclusive
of site finding, travelling fees, contract
negotiation and resolving any other issues
which arise during the term of the lease,
all of which are free of charge for the
tenant.
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM
9th floor, Vinaplast, Tai Tam Building, 39A Ngo
Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 2220 5888
www.colliersmn.com/vietnam
Represent property investors, developers
and occupiers in all matters related to
commercial and residential property.
Services include leasing and sales,
valuation and research, property
management and support services.
Attempt to accelerate the success of their
clients by making their knowledge your
property.
DALUVA HOME
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
www.daluva.com/apartment
Thoughtfully appointed and decorated,
Daluva Home features a cosy bedroom
for true rest, plus open living, dining,
and work areas. Extras include two
LCD TVs, iPod dock, and outdoor patio.
Housekeeping, and daily breakfast from
the Daluva Breakfast Menu are also
included. Private car and tour booking
service available.
HANOI HOUSE HUNTER
Quang Trung Building, Room 203, 39 Hai Ba
Trung, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0983 336336
www.hanoihousehunter.com
This company can assist you in finding an
apartment that meets your living and bud-
get requirements. Though they specialise
in high-end, high-rise apartments, they
do have a range of options. The website
contains most listings.
KNIGHT FRANK
40 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem
www.knightfrank.com
UK real estate agent providing a wide range
of services including property sale, lease,
management, price appraisal, counselling
and market research.
MEGALAND
2nd Floor, 43 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3936 5556
Specialising in meeting housing needs
of expatriates and overseas Vietnamese,
Megaland offers a wide range of serviced
apartments, villas and commercial spaces.
SAVILLS VIETNAM
6th floor, Sentinel Place, 41A Ly Thai To, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 3946 1300
www.savills.com.vn
A leading global real estate service
provider listed on the London Stock
Exchange with over 200 offices worldwide.
Provides consultancy services, property
management, space planning, facilities
management, corporate real estate
services, leasing, valuation and sales
to the key segments of commercial,
industrial, retail, residential and
investment property.
TAN LONG HOUSING
Moongate Building, 5th & 6th Floor, 107 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel: 3719 9864
www.tanlonghousing.com
Tan Long has been concentrating on
assisting individuals in the process of
buying, selling and renting property in
Hanoi since 1999. They also have several
branch offices, and a useful website that
can help to fill residential or commercial
needs.
THREE TEMPLES
73B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 3366
www.threetemples.com
Three Temples is a full-service, design-led
property development and marketing
company that specialises in creating
residential addresses by providing high
quality architecture, residential design,
interior design, commercial consultancy,
marketing and branding solutions. A one-
stop-shop to finance, design, brand and
build for the finest residential products.
VIETNAM LAND
38 Phan Boi Chau Street, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3787 0188
Vietnam Land was incorporated in
Vietnam in 2002 as a commercial and
residential real estate services, real estate
property management and real estate
development company. Since that time
Vietnam Land has successfully developed
two residential towers at the Chelsea Park
project in Hanoi and a residential land
sales project in Hung Yen province called
Villa Park.
INSURANCE
AIG
Suite 5-01, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 3936 1455
www.aig.com
Offers a range of insurance products and
services including property, casualty and
marine exposure insurance. Also has com-
prehensive travel and accident coverage,
as well as healthcare packages for expats
residing in Vietnam.
IF CONSULTING
4th Floor, 5 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
www.insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits
and personal lines insurance advice
to expatriates. The company has been
operational in Vietnam since 1994 and
offers free advice and comparative
quotes.
LIBERTY INSURANCE
16th Floor, Hoa Binh International Towers, 106
Hoang Quoc Viet, Cau Giay
Tel: 3755 7111
www.libertyinsurance.com.vn
Provides a quality range of insurance
services to both commercial enterprises
and individuals. Coverage includes
property, liability, business interruption,
marine cargo, automobile, home and
travel, as well as expat healthcare
packages. Toll free hotline in Vietnam: 1
800 599 998.
PRUDENTIAL
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3934 5999
www.prudential.com.vn
Operating in Vietnam since 1995, has over
70 customer care centers throughout the
country.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Tower, Duy Tan, Cau Giay
Tel: 3795 8878
www.concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly
performing schools in both Hong Kong and
Shanghai at the top tier of the educational
system. All instructors and teachers are
native English speakers and admission
applications are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
48 Lieu Giai Boulevard, Ba Dinh
www.hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for students
studying at the elementary through to
secondary levels of education, HIS is one
of the few private, international education
options in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and IB Diploma for
students at the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse CT17, Ciputra
Tel: 3743 0306
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3934 7243
Classes are kept small with a foreign
teacher leading the class with the assis-
tance of a Vietnamese teacher according
to the teacher-student ratio. KinderWorld
provides pre school education for children
from 18 months to below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 6418
www.hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of experience in
international education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the long line of
quality schools that have been estab-
lished by the Quality Schools International.
The institution specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age
students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SSCHOOL
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic Compound, 46 Van
Bao, 726 1601, Block C3, Ciputra
Tel: 3758 2664
An international school with an excellent
record in a host of countries around the
world, now available to those in Hanoi
within its salubrious surrounds in Ciputra.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (UNIS)
Ciputra International Village, Tay Ho
Tel: 3758 1551
www.unishanoi.org
With more than 800 students from 50
different countries, UNIS is a non-profit IB
World School that instructs students from
as young as three years old through to
grade 12. Established in 1988 by agencies
representing the United Nations, the pris-
tine campus has a broad range of facilities
and is located in the gated community
of Ciputra.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE
DRAGON CAPITAL
11th Floor, Hanoi Lake View Bldg, 28 Thanh
Nien, Tay Ho, Tel: 3936 0203
www.dragoncapital.com
An integrated financial services provider
with an exclusive focus on Vietnams
capital markets. Established in 1994, the
group is one of the largest and most
experienced asset managers in Vietnam
with total group assets in excess of US$2
billion. Has offices in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi and the UK.
INDOCHINA CAPITAL
Floors 9-9A, 60 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3930 6399
www.indochinacapital.com
A leading investment firm operating in
the ASEAN region with a particular focus
on Vietnam. Assists partners, co-investors
and clients to achieve financial objec-
tives while focusing on four core areas:
corporate finance and advisory services,
investment management and real estate
development.
MEKONG CAPITAL
12th Floor, HAREC Building, 4A Lang Ha, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3772 4888
www.mekongcapital.com
A private equity firm which focuses on
the growth equity of companies in the
developing Vietnamese economy.
SG VIETFRANCE
VIT Tower, 18th Floor, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh
Tel: 2220 8979
The Vietnamese subsidiary of Frances
Societe Generale, the company recently
opened a Hanoi. This was the first
financial company in Vietnam to focus
entirely on consumer credit.
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3, Ho Chi Minh City
Tel: 3820 0623
www.t-wm.com
BUSINESS
TWM provides information related to
BUFF
inter-country personal financial planning.
They will walk you through the solutions
and products available and will constantly
monitor and manage your portfo-
lio through opportunity and instability in
global financial markets.
GETTING AHEAD
VIET TIN FINANCIAL CO.
1st & 2nd Floor, 40 Pho Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3941 1566
www.viet-tin.com
A locally based securities and stock If youre worried about your CV or looking for ways
brokerage firm whose stated mission is to improve your job applications, spare a moment to
to provide valued returns to partners and
shareholders. hear sage advice from Words guest columnist Daragh
VINACAPITAL Halpin on how to secure that all important interview
5th Floor, Sun City Building, 13 Hai Ba Trung,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3936 4630
WHATS IN A CV? remember the employer may
www.vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund management Many people are confused when not even bother reading the
company with extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market. Manages the it comes to writing a CV or a second page. The real challenge
Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which is resume both from a content in writing a good CV is knowing
a an investment fund currently listed on
the London Stock Exchange. and a structure point of view. what to leave out as much as
The issue isnt made any easier what to put in. The sequence is
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS by the fact that there are cultural important. And so to rule three:
APOLLO norms at play as well. When
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 2051
writing a CV, the applicant should LAST THINGS FIRST
www.apolloedutrain.com
Established in 1994, Apollo offers high- always be mindful of who the I advise my clients to follow the
quality and cost-effective English language recipient is and therein lies the 80/20 rule. Eighty percent of
classes including general English,
English for teens, English for business first rule: your CV should be focused on
communication and a pronunciation clinic. Always tailor your CV to the your most recent activity, and
One of the countrys leading language
centres. organisation and the role being 20 percent should be focused
applied for on your work and career details.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel: 3728 1922 Many job seekers simply This means that you detail your
www.britishcouncil.org cut and paste parts of their current or most recent job
The cultural arm of the British govern-
CV onto applications Ive position first and work your way
ments presence in Vietnam, the BC offers
a variety of English language courses even encountered CVs where backwards. The most recent
business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large learning centre the applicant had forgotten positions will have the greatest
close to West Lake. to change the name of the detail and should be tailored to
company being applied to! the job being applied for now.
CLEVERLEARN
Building 3, 2C Diplomatic Compound, Van Bao, Each job position requires Positions of five or 10 years ago
Ba Dinh, Tel: 3726 1698 particular and specific skills, might only warrant a line or two.
www.cleverlearnvietnam.vn
With two main schools in Hanoi and Ho experiences and responsibilities. Your CV is a sales tool to
Chi Minh City, Cleverlearn offers mainly The content of your CV should secure you an interview. Clarity
conversational and business English
courses. An authorised in iBT test site by focus, as much as possible, on of presentation, correct spelling
the ETS. highlighting where your skills and and accurate grammar are
experiences match those being essential. Always have a friend
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM
62 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3733 8402 sought. This might sound obvious or colleague review your CV and
www.languagelink.edu.vn
but many people fail to spend ask for feedback it could make
With four schools around Hanoi, Language
Link runs international English language enough time on this aspect of all the difference.
courses endorsed by Cambridge Univer-
their CV preparation. Choose Visit www.
sity. One of the top language centres in
the capital. your words carefully and be competitiveedgevietnam.com for
LEGAL SERVICES succinct no employer wants more information
to read a novel when a page will
ALLENS ARTHUR ROBINSON
do. This brings us to rule number
Suite 401, Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 3936 0990 two:
Australian law firm working in Asia for
over 30 years. Besides providing the stan-
dard legal services to corporate clients, KEEP IT SHORT
has an excellent website containing the There are always exceptions
Vietnam Laws Online Database English
translations of over 3,000 Vietnamese to the rule but generally CVs
laws. Also publishes a monthly Vietnam should not exceed three pages.
Legal Update.
If you are applying for a middle
BAKER & MCKENZIE
or senior management position,
13th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang
Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1428 the key information should be
www.bakernet.com up front and on the first page
One of the first international law firms
to establish representative offices in
Vietnam, Baker & McKenzie provide on-
May 2012 Word | 73

the-ground liaison and support services
to clients interested in investigating,
negotiating and implementing projects in
the country.
FRASERS LAW COMPANY
Unit 1205, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1203
www.frasersvn.com
The first legal firm licensed as a foreign
law company in Vietnam, Frasers provides
legal advice on all areas of business and
commerce within the country.
FRESHFIELDS BRUCKHAUS
DERINGER
#05-01 International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 7422
This law firm works in 19 countries and is
one of the worlds largest. They regularly
advise large clients on international in-
vestment, banking and finance.
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.
Pacific Place, Suite 505 507, 83B Ly Thuong
Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 2350
www.gide.com
A leading international law firm with 24
offices worldwide including Hanoi and Ho
Chi Minh City. The Vietnam offices offer
their clients (companies and international
institutions) high quality services which
combine legal expertise and a highly com-
mercial approach to clients needs, across
all sectors of business law.
J&P LAW LLC
Room 1204B, Floor 12, Tower B, Handi Resco
Tower, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3724 5201
www.jnplaw.com
This Korean law firm offers interna-
tional legal services and has additional
branches in Ho Chi Minh City, Beijing and
Ulaanbaatar. The Vietnam offices provide
high-quality legal services in English,
Korean, and Vietnamese across all sectors
of business law.
LAWYERS ASSOCIATION OF THE
CITY OF HANOI
35 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
Tel: 3835 3548
The Lawyers Association is a collective
of Vietnamese lawyers speicialising in
many fields. They can provide legal and
representation services.
ROUSE LEGAL (HANOI BRANCH)
7th Floor, VIT Building, 519 Kim Ma, Dong Da
Tel: 3577 0479
www.iprights.com
Rouse is an international intellectual
property law firm. From HCMC and Hanoi
we advise on protection and enforcement
of trade marks, patents, copyright and
domain names; commercial IP, IP manage-
ment/strategy.
RUSSIN & VECCHI
11/F, Hanoi Central Office Bldg., Suite 1104, 44B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Tel: 3825 1700
A financial law firm which focuses on
commercial and investment matters for
corporate clients. In some cases they can
provide assistance to individual clients.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
BRITISH UNIVERSITY VIETNAM
193 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3974 7596
www.britishuniversity.edu.vn
The first university offering prestigious UK
degrees in Vietnam. Courses offered in
2010 include International Business Ad-
ministration, Banking & Finance, Account-
ing & Finance, Marketing Management,
Accounting & Business. Pre-university
courses are also available.
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES
HKC Building, Suite 701, 285 Doi Can, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3762 3805
www.ghmsglobal.com
A 100% foreign-invested company focusing
74 | Word May 2012
on management services and consult-
ing with in-house programs to meet the
particular requirements of its clients.
Offers teambuilding and academic-based
business and management programmes.
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3726 1460
www.rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills
training and professional staff develop-
ment, RMIT offers both short and long-
term courses, customised courses, and
can provide for either on or off-campus
clients. Known for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese and overseas
students.
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
142 Le Duan, Dong Da
Tel: 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
www.cimigo.com
Independent marketing and brand
research specialist operating in Hanoi
and the Asia Pacific region in general.
Services include auditing and optimising
research programs, knowledge manage-
ment, developing marketing plans and
business models, and assessing market
opportunities.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH
7th Floor, 73 Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4661
www.indochinaresearch.com
Provides a regional perspective on
consumer, retail and social research to
a range of multinational organisations
operating in Indochina. Focus is on
developing partnerships that leverage
their market knowledge and on enhancing
their clients competitive position in the
region.
THE NIELSEN COMPANY
3rd floor, 85 Nguyen Du, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3933 1161
www.nielsen.com
Media company offering integrated
marketing and media measurement infor-
mation and analytics. Offers full service
capability across qualitative, quantitative,
media and retail measurement for FMCGs,
consumer products, finance, telecoms
and more.
VINALINK
11th Floor, Lang Ha Building, 14 Lang Ha, Dong
Da, Tel: 3772 4234
www.vinalink.com
Specialising in online survey-based
market research, Vinalink is a
subcontractor for a few global market
research firms, including CALEB Global
and Pulse Group.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MEDIA ONE
Rm 207, 40A Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3939 3966
www.media-one.vn
PR company with offices both in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City. Focuses mainly on
the Telecom and IT industries, providing
a range of services including events,
product activation, consulting, marketing
and advertising.
PIONEER COMMUNICATIONS
Floor 6, 58 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3945 4398
www.pioneervn.com
Pioneer Communications is one of the
leading agencies in providing integrated
marketing and public relations solutions
for businesses and organiastions in
Vietnam.
TQPR
Room 109, House K, 7, 2ha, Vinh Phuc Ward,
Ba Dinh., Tel: 32474 028
www.tqpr.com
One in a group of companies from
Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, the
company offers international standard
consultancy services and value-added
results to local, regional and global
clients.
VENUS COMMUNICATIONS
4 Da Tuong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7066
Well-known PR and communications
company with offices in both Ho Chi
Minh City and Hanoi. Offers the full
range of PR, advertising and consultancy
services.
RECRUITMENT & HR
AON VIETNAM LIMITED
14th Floor, Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang
Khai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 0832
www.aon.com/vietnam
Founded in Vietnam in 1994, among other
things, Aon now concentrates on human
capital consulting, assisting their clients
with compensation, benefit analyses and
outsourcing.
HR2B
Suite A6, 3rd Floor, Horison Office Center, 40 Cat
Linh, Dong Da , Tel: 3736 6843
www.hr2b.com
The forte of this company is placing
highly talented Vietnamese and expat
candidates into executive positions at
medium to large companies. Rapidly
growing, in the past years theyve added
Coca Cola, DHL and Prudential to their
client list.
MANPOWER VIETNAM
12th Floor, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu,
Hai Ba Trung , Tel: 3974 4574
www.manpower.com.vn
Established in Vietnam at the beginning
of 2008, Manpower is the first global
recruitment company to set up locally.
Offers a range of services for the entire
employment and business cycle.
NAVIGOS GROUP
Suite 1401, Vincom City Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu,
Hai Ba Trung , Tel: 3974 3033
www.navigosgroup.com
Adept at solving human resource challeng-
es through excellence in matching and
management talent. Has offices in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City.
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS
ALLIED PICKFORDS
8 Cat Linh, Dong Da, Tel: 6275 2824
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home moving company
helps make the burden of moving a
lot easier. As the largest home moving
company in the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families in over 175
countries every day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves,
office moves and storage whether you
are moving within Vietnam or across the
world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO
Inland Customs Depot Area (ICD), Pham Hung,
My Dinh, Tu Liem
Tel: 3768 5882
www.asiantigersgroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its
mission of moving households without
disruption to family life. They also offer
pre-move advice regarding customs and
shipping.
CROWN RELOCATION SERVICES
95E Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh , Tel: 3936 6741
www.crownrelo.com
Offering both family and corporate reloca-
tion services locally and internationally,
Crown prides themselves on being a kid-
friendly company.
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS
6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3826 0334
www.jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international
and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in the field. Has
offices in both Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
City.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
3A Alley, 49 Huynh Thuc Khang, Tel: 3773 7191
www.residentvietnam.com
Established in 2000, Resident Vietnam
was the first dedicated Expatriate Service
Provider in Vietnam. Resident Vietnam
provides full relocation and immigration
management services to several multina-
tional companies in Vietnam and ser vices
the Global Mobility industry.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES
Suite 821, Vietnam Trade Union Hotel, 14 Tran
Binh Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0908 096222
sales@santaferelo.com.vn
www.santaferelo.com
Santa Fe Relocation Services offers
moving, home search, pet transport,
orientation and immigration services. We
are proud to be the only moving company
with both ISO 9001 14001 certification in
Vietnam.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0912 239085
www.atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully serviced apart-
ments have been created to provide a
space where you can feel at home.
Within walking distance from Hanois
Opera House and Hoan Kiem Lake, this
building offers a panel of 51 spacious
apartments for you to choose from. The
serviced apartments here offer the luxury
of a hotel mixed with the peaceful com-
fort and privacy of your home, under one
roof of course.
DALUVA HOME
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831
Whether traveling or on a temporary stay,
Daluva can provide space & comfort.
Thoughtfully appointed Daluva Homes
feature a cozy bedroom for true rest, and
an open living area that opens up to a
terrace with plants.
FRASER SUITES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877
http://hanoi.frasershospitality.com
Great location in Syrena Tower on West
Lake, Fraser Suites offer a tranquil
repose from the busy city. Has several
apartments with excellent views and
provides gold-standard service.
MAYFAIR
34B Tran Phu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0030
www.mayfair-hanoi.com
A building with a great location, and
some of the largest apartments youll
find. The Mayfair is popular among the
diplomatic and international business
communities.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 0888
www.sedonahotels.com.sg
175 well-designed, furnished apartments
and villas combining the comforts of
home with the conveniences of a fine
hotel.
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI
49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3934 2342
www.somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation
with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished apartments,
car park, 24-hour reception and central
location.
DESTINATION
LISTINGS
visit wordhanoi.com for a
comprehensive list of our listings
DALAT 075 NHA TRANG 079
DANANG 075 NORTH-EAST 079
HALONG & CAT BA 075 NORTH-WEST 080
HAI PHONG 0795 PHAN THIET / MUI NE 080
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL 075 PHU QUOC 080
HANOI - MID - RANGE 077 SAPA 080
HANOI - BUDGET 077 TAM DAO 080
HO CHI MINH CITY 077 TRAVEL SERVICES 080
HOI AN & DANANG 078
HUE 078 COLUMN
MAI CHAU & HOA BINH 079 DESTINATION ZERO 076
NAM DINH & NINH BINH 079
bus stops. Apart from that convenience, it
DALAT is a fairly basic hotel, but its right in the
middle of town.
BLUE MOON HOTEL RESORT AND
SPA DANANG
$$$
CREDIT
4 Phan Boi Chau, Tel: 063 357 8888 DANANG BEACH RESORT
www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn
$$$
CREDIT
Ideally situated in the centre of Dalat,
this hotel has 71 rooms, all with good
Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Coastal Street Hoa Hai Ward,
Ngu Hanh Son, Tel: 0511 396 1800
views, and modern amenities, including
With six different styles of villa units that
flatscreen TVs and DSL connections. Also
offer views of the ocean, the mountains
has a heated swimming pool, gym, spa,
and a green of a golf course, the Danang
and prices to match.
Beach Resort is one of the most luxurious
DREAMS HOTEL places to stay in this much overlooked
city. The property also offers 33-storey
$
151 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat, Tel: 063 383 3748 twin towers housing a five-star hotel and
golf courses adding up to 36 holes.
The excellent value at this small private
place has made it justifiably popular. You
HALONG & CAT BA
get a large room with cable TV, free break-
fast and Internet access, starting from $10
per night. The staff are friendly, too. Just BAI TU LONG ECOTOURISM RESORT
round the corner are bike rentals (watch $ boat ride from Cat Ba. For more informa-
those hills) and other tour facilities. Halong Commune, Van Don , Tel: 0333 793156
Stay in a beachside bungalow or a
TRUNG CANG HOTEL CREDIT
traditional resort-style hotel on the shores
$ $
of Van Don Island. Bai Tu Long Bay is situ-
4A Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat , Tel: 063 382 2663 ated just up the coast from Halong City.
You get door-to-door service from Saigon The staff here can help you arrange tours
at this budget hotel it has links with the that will offer scenery a bit different than
Sinh Cafe people and this is where their
the standard tours of Halong Bay.
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
PRICE RANGE $$$ CREDIT
47 Phan Chu Trinh Street, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 04 3944 6777 (Sales Office)
$ BELOW VND630,000
www.bhayacruises.com
Bhaya combines oriental style with
$$ VND651,000 TO VND1,680,000
contemporary luxury, offering tours of
beautiful Halong Bay aboard reproduction
$$$ VND1,701,000 TO VND3,171,000
wooden junks. Two or three-night tours
$$$$ ABOVE VND3,171,000 are available and customers have a wide
range of cabin styles to choose from:
standard, deluxe or royal.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES
ICONS 101 $$$$
CREDIT
Tel: 04 3934 0888
ACCEPTS www.emeraude-cruises.com
CREDIT
CREDIT CARDS This reproduction of a 19th-century paddle
steamer trawls around Halong Bay in
RESTAURANT & colonial style, with onboard overnight
BAR SERVICES accommodation in impeccably maintained
cabins. The great food and service adds
to the already beautiful setting. They also
SMOKE-FREE ROOMS
offer transfers directly from Hanoi.
GYM HAI LONG JUNKS, HALONG BAY
32 Anh Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh
Tel: 0333 846099
SWIMMING POOL Hai Long Junks is one of the three larg-
est cruise operators in Halong Bay. The
company boasts 11 overnight cruise
BUSINESS FACILITIES vessels with a total of 160 cabins and
15 traditional junks with capacities from
25-48 passengers each for day trippers,
providing cruise services for travelers with
a mid-range budget.
HALONG DREAM HOTEL
CREDIT
$$$
10 Halong Road, Halong , Tel: 0333 849 009
www.halongdreamhotel.com
Close to the pier and the new bridge, what
this hotel lacks in character is made up for
in cleanliness and comfort. There are 184
rooms priced between VND2 million and
VND6 million. Other facilities include indoor
pool, health club and sauna.
HALONG PLAZA CREDIT
$$$
8 Halong Road, Bai Chay, Halong
Tel: 0333 845810, www.halongplaza.com
One of the many large tower-type hotels
in Halong City, Halong Plaza has pretty
much everything youd expect from a
4-star hotel. 200 rooms, a bar and a
restaurant that touts its seafood and
barbecue.
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
CREDIT
$$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City,
Quang Ninh. Tel: 0333 848108
www.novotelhalongbay.com
Located three hours from Hanoi, the
beachfront Novotel Ha Long Bay is in close
proximity to major attractions such as
bay cruises and local markets. Featuring
214 rooms, one restaurant, two bars and
one professional spa with seven treat-
ment rooms, Novotel Ha Long Bay enjoys
impressive panoramic vistas, including a
pool with swim-up bar overlooking the
limestone bay. Ideal for business travel or
family holidays.
OCEAN BEACH RESORT
CREDIT
$$$
www.oceanbeachresort.com.vn
This resort is on a private island just off
of Cat Ba Island. Around VND600,000 will
get you a comfortable room in a bungalow
close to the beach. Fee also includes the
tion check on the web.
PEACE HOTEL
39 Vuon Dao, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh
Tel: 0333 846009
Found just outside Halong City on Bai
Chay beach, this is clean, honest accom-
modation for a reasonable price. Located
on Hotel Alley, there are a lot of options
here. The rooms are fairly well looked
after and clean. You can usually get one
for under VND400,000, but prices vary
depending on the season.
PRINCES HOTEL
$ HANOI INTERNATIONAL
Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Tel: 0313 888899
This is one of the better hotels on Cat
Ba Island. Large, clean rooms with all
the modern conveniences, as well as a
restaurant and a popular bar. The front
desk can also arrange tailor-made tours
around the bay.
ROYAL HOTEL CREDIT
$$$$
66 Pho Ha Long, Bai Chay, Quang Ninh
Tel: 0333 848999. www.royalhalong.com
The four-star Royal Hotel boasts villas,
well-landscaped gardens and a pool, all
overlooking Halong Bay. Just two minutes
walk from Bai Chay, the property has a
resort feel and the rooms are housed in
several buildings. If youre feeling lucky,
theres also a Gaming Club.
HAI PHONG
BACH DANG HOTEL
$$
42 Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 384 2444
bachdanghotelhp@hn.vnn.vn
One of the best of the towns best budget
hotels, the aircon old but clean rooms
come in all shapes and sizes and have
satellite TV, a fridge and a mini bar. The
front-desk staff speaks English and can
help sort out any travel arrangements.
Rates from around VND250,000 per night.
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL CREDIT
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong Kinh, Hai Phong
Tel: 0313 880 888
www.pearlriverhotel.vn
Located 100km east of Hanoi, the four-
star Best Western Pearl River Hotel is
the only internationally branded hotel
in Hai Phong. All 101 suites and rooms
offer bathrobe and slippers, digital safety
box, free internet access, satellite TV and
24-hour room service. Facilities include
the Jade restaurant, offering western and
Asian fare, several bars, a deluxe spa and
fitness center with separate hot and cold
Jacuzzis, sauna, steam room, relax lounge
and VIP massage room.
HARBOUR VIEW HOTEL CREDIT
$$$
4 Tran Phu, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 382 7827
www.harbourviewvietnam.com
Hai Phongs most prestigious address, this
cool, retro French-colonial style property
is the only international standard hotel in
town. Designed with panache without be-
ing pretentious, room rates at this 122-unit
property start at around VND2.5 million.
HUU NGHI HOTEL CREDIT
$$$
60A Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong
Tel: 031 384 2706, www.huunghihotel.vn
One of the larger hotels in town, Huu Nghi
offers some of the comforts you might
miss at the other places. In addition to the
clean up-to-standard rooms, the hotel also
has a swimming pool and tennis courts.
MAXIM HOTEL
$$
3K Ly Tu Trong, Hai Phong, Tel: 031 374 6540
New and tidy, with cable TV and air-
conditioning, Maxim is one of the best
mini hotels in town. Rooms are small
but have good modern conveniences like
satellite TV and new, clean bathrooms
done in designer tiles. Room rates around
VND250,000 to VND300,000 a night.
MONACO HOTEL
103 Pho Dien Bien Phu, Hai Phong
Tel: 031 374 6468
One of the more modern hotels on Dien
Bien Phu Street, the prices here are com-
petitive and its possible to request a room
with a kitchen. Standards with aircon and
a TV start at VND350,000 per night.
CROWNE PLAZA WEST HANOI
$$$ CREDIT
Lot X7, Le Duc Tho, My Dinh, Tu Liem
Tel: 6270 6688. www.crowneplaza.com
My Dinhs first five-star property. This
24-storey mixed-use complex lies next to
My Dinh National Stadium and close to
the National Convention Centre. Boasting
393 guest rooms (including 40 suites), two
swimming pools and a spa and fitness
centre, Crowne Plaza also has some of the
best meetings and conference facilities
in town.
DAEWOO HOTEL
CREDIT
$$$
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.com
This enormous structure offers the most
modern of amenities, and with four restau-
rants and two bars, the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close
to the National Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business traveller, Daewoo
even boasts an outdoor driving range.
Shortly to become a Marriot property.
May 2012 Word | 75
DESTINATION
Puerto Princesa, a gateway to the Philippines Palawan.
Words and photo by Robert Stockdill
ne of the first things a visitor to the
O Palawan capital Puerto Princesa
hears upon arrival is a warning not to
toss any candy wrappers or cigarette
butts into the gutters.
Thanks to a fervent campaign by former
city mayor Edward S Hagedorn, Puerto
Princesa must have the cleanest streets in
the country. Get caught littering three times
and you go to jail! Yes, jail for littering!
Puerto Princesa means City in a Forest.
Budget carriers Cebu Pacific, Zest Air, Air
Asia or AirPhil offer many direct flights
from Manila or Clark at fares from as low
as VND420,000.
No matter where you stay, getting
around town is easy by local tricycle. There
are no car taxis here; instead you hail
quaint tin chariots built over motorcycles.
Some fit two at an absolute squeeze, others
three in comfort. They are all open air, leak
like a sieve and transmit every undulation
in the road directly to your spine, but
theyre functional, plentiful and cost just 20
cents a head for a short trip within town.
The Philippines is not renowned for its
cuisine, which is surprising because local
dishes like sweet and sour lapu lapu (fish)
and pancit canton (a colourful noodle dish)
can be delicious and nutritious in one.
76 | Word May 2012
ZERO
Seafood is plentiful here - Palawan boasts
a 2,000km coastline.
Kinabuchs, a huge outdoor restaurant
offers a Palaweo delicacy for the truly
brave: tamilok woodworm harvested
from mangrove trees, likened in flavour to
oysters but far less appealing to the eye, (if
that is possible!).
River Life
There are two great day itineraries:
Day 1: Take a tricycle to the picturesque
Honda Bay and hire an outrigger style
wooden boat to go island hopping.
Swim with the fishes be warned,
they bite, but therell be no lasting
damage. Snorkelling gets you close to an
abundance of tame sea life, you can bake
on the expansive white sandy beaches,
swim in the clear waters or snack on fresh
food offered by roaming vendors, washed
down with fresh coconut juice or cold
beer. Get caught in a squall on the way
back and watch as the tropical downpour
smoothes the surface of the sea.
Afterwards head to Kims Hotspring
on the way back to Puerto Princesa where
you can soak in rejuvenating natural
mineral pools.
Day 2: Book a day trip with your own
personal driver to the famous Underground
River. A visit includes a cumbersome
bureaucratic process involving a licence
bought in Puerto Princesa exchanged for
a ticket after the two hour road journey:
no licence, no ticket. Our advice: leave the
bureaucracy to the driver and treat yourself
to a fresh mango smoothie, American style
breakfast and espresso coffee at the expat-
run Itoys Coffee Haus in downtown.
The underground river is accessed by
a boat trip around a point to a staging
post where giant monitors wander by the
path and monkeys noisily leap from tree
to tree high above your head. A raft takes
groups on the river journey into giant
cavernous caves where tiny bats dangle
from exotic rock formations crafted by
nature over thousands of years. The guides
are passionate about the river and you feel
like theyre taking you on a tour of their
house, complete with often laugh out loud
observations about the decor and the house
guests. Be warned!
If youve not ventured to the
Philippines before, three days in Puerto
Princesa is likely to give you an insatiable
thirst for Asias most underrated travel
destination.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI
$$$
6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3831 3333
www.fortunahotels.com
This 350-room four-star set up in the heart
of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital lounge and
three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international cuisine. And
CREDIT
like youd expect, theres a fitness centre,
night club and swimming pool, too, and
even a separate spa and treatment facility
for men and women. Set to the west of
town, Fortuna often offers business deals
on rooms and spaces to hold meetings,
presentations and celebrations.
FRASER SUITES CREDIT
$$$$
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 8877
www.hanoi.frasershospitality.com
A good alternative to staying at a five-star
hotel while youre in the capital, Fraser
Suites offers short-term stays for as little as
VND2.5 million a night when theyre having
a promotion. In the West Lake area, you
can expect the gold-standard service with a
quiet atmosphere and excellent views.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Tel: 3928 6969, www.goldensilkhotel.com
With 55 rooms and suites, the four-star
Golden Silk Boutique Hotel, which is
located in the centre of the Old Quarter,
is the only hotel offering a complimentary
(free!) and daily replenished minibar and
snacks service in every room. Facilities
include a spa with Jacuzzi, sauna and
steam rooms, a comprehensive range of
business amenities, the Orient restaurant,
serving international and Vietnamese fare,
and the Rendezvous Piano Bar with wines
and cocktails.
HANOI HILTON CREDIT
$$$$
1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem , Tel: 3933 0500
www.hilton.com
Located next to the Opera House, this five-
star is not to be confused with the famed
Hanoi Hilton that housed American
POWs. Reproduction colonial architecture
is matched by an elegant and spacious
inside area. Has all the standard facilities
of a top-end hotel as well as an attractive,
courtyard pool area.
HORISON HOTEL
$$$
CREDIT
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3733 0808
This 250-room hotel no longer boasts the
sparkle of a few years ago, but nonethe-
less has good quality rooms with all the
mod-cons and a cavernous lobby. Decent
but slightly old gym area and a good
outdoor pool.
HOTEL DE LOPERA CREDIT
$$$$
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away from the Opera
House, the hotel mixes colonial architec-
tural accents and theatrical interior design
to create a contemporary space. The first
boutique five star in the heart of Hanoi,
the lavish, uniquely designed 107 rooms
and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two restaurants, a
bar and complimentary Wi-Fi.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI WESTLAKE
$$$$
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
Tel: 6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.com
This stunning property built over West
Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas,
comfortable, top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the mix here
together with the resorts three in-house
restaurants and the Sunset Bar, a watering
hole located on a thoroughfare over the
lake. Great gym and health club.
MARIGOLD HOTEL
$$$
CREDIT
17A Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9988
www.marigoldhotelhanoi.com
A contemporary boutique hotel a stones
throw from Hang Cot in the Old Quarter.
Colonial era accents throughout and an
oriental themes lobby. 32 upmarket rooms
and an intimate top class restaurant make
this a strong contender in an area with
plenty of competition.
MELIA HANOI CREDIT
$$$$
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central Hanoi, Melia
Hanoi draws plenty of business travellers
and is also a popular venue for confer-
ences and wedding receptions. State-of-
the-art rooms, elegant restaurants, stylish
bars, fully equipped fitness centre with
sophisticated service always make in-
house guests satisfied.
MERCURE HANOI LA GARE
$$$
94 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3944 7766
When your train arrives from Sapa at 5am,
you will be overjoyed if your bed is just
CREDIT
across the street from the station in one
of the 102 spacious rooms at this smart
hotel. A stones throw from both the Old
Quarter and the Temple of Literature,
Mercure Hanoi boasts a French brasserie,
an internal courtyard, a fitness centre
and a retail outlet of wine importer and
distributor Da Loc.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI
$$$$
83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.com
With its distinctive French architecture and
top end service, Mvenpick Hotel Hanoi
is aimed squarely at corporate travellers.
An all-day restaurant and a lounge bar are
available to satiate their clientele while
the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer
an excellent range of equipment. Massage
and sauna facilities are available for
guests seeking to rejuvenate. Of the 154
well-appointed rooms and suites, 93 are
non-smoking.
SHERATON CREDIT
$$$$
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping
lawns and tranquil courtyards, this peace-
ful property features picturesque views
of West Lake and is less than 10 minutes
from downtown. In addition to the luxuri-
ous rooms, the hotel offers an outdoor
swimming pool and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a tennis court
and spa. There are well equipped confer-
ence rooms and a newly refurbished
Executive Club Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI
$$$$ CREDIT
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919
ww.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French colonial pe-
riod is probably still the finest in todays
Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was) anyone
has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm,
where the service is impeccable and the
luxurious facilities complement the ambi-
ance of a bygone era. Definitely the place
CREDIT
to put the Comtessa up for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI
$$$$
CREDIT
1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views of West Lake,
Truc Bach Lake and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the
city skyline. The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable guestrooms
with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to
Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to grace Hanois
Old Quarter, the six rooms here mix
contemporary and fresh with handicrafts
and antique. Breakfast is included and
in the long, lounge restaurant on the
second floor, home-style Vietnamese fare
is served up with fresh fruit juices and
Lavazza coffee.
GIABAO HANOI & GIABAO GRAND
$$$
38 & 23 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2222
Two mid-range hotels situated in the heart
of Hanoi,just 150 meters from Hoan Kiem
Lake. Built using a blend of western and
oriental architecture, the properties have
28 and 35 rooms respectively, all with
mod-cons. For a bit more luxury stay at
the Giabao Grand.
GOLDEN LOTUS HOTEL CREDIT
CREDIT
$$
32 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3928 8583
www.goldenlotushotel.com.vn
The interesting arty decor of this place is
a bonus, as is its value for money its
not often you pay under VND1 million for
a modern hotel room slap bang in the
middle of town. Try to get a front room
(with balcony) to look out over the bustling
Old Quarter. Theyve also opened a second
Golden Lotus just down the street at
number 39.
HANOI SPRING HOTEL II CREDIT
CREDIT
$$
38 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3826 8500
www.hanoispringhotel.com
One of the only hotels in the Old Quarter
to have a balcony with each room, this
new boutique is middle of the range but
feels higher. Run by Australian expats and
partners with a wealth of experience in
the hotel industry, expect great service.
Awesome western breakfasts and Viet-
namese lunch and dinners. The top floor
honeymoon suite has perfect views of St
Josephs Cathedral.
JOSEPHS HOTEL CREDIT
$$
5 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1048
info@josephshotel.com, www.josephshotel.com
Just to the side of St. Josephs Cathedral,
this is a well-appointed, comfortable bou-
tique hotel. Brightly decorated, the prop-
ertys 10 rooms have Wi-Fi, flatscreen TV
and a mini bar. Prices start at VND650,000
a night. No smoking except for on the
upstairs balconies.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 04 3938 0999
www.hanovahotel.com
Just a short walk from Hoan Kiem Lake,
this boutique hotel is fitted with 33
comfortable guest rooms, 18 deluxe, and
four luxurious suites. All rooms have wi-fi
access, and the cozy lobby has both a
gallery and a piano bar. Prices range from
VND2.5 million for a guest room to VND4.5
million for a suite.
MAY DE VILLE CREDIT
$$$
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter a short
walk from the Opera House, May de Ville
City Centre is a welcome new addition
to the capital. Combining contemporary
architecture with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property
has 81 well-appointed rooms including
four suites.
THANG LONG OPERA HOTEL
$$$
1C Tong Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 4775
www.thanglongopera.com
This hotel houses 71 spacious, comfort-
able rooms all equipped with high speed
internet, bath tub and room service. They
have a meeting room, which can accom-
modate up to 60 people, as well as a
restaurant and bar downstairs.
ZEPHYR
$$$
CREDIT
4 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 1256
www.zephyrhotel.com.vn
A mid-size boutique hotel with a prime lo-
cation, Zephyr offers a range of packages
and special offers on rooms that are clean
and stylish. The lobby boasts a coffee
house and restaurant with both Asian and
Western Cuisine.
HANOI BUDGET
CREDIT
CAMELLIA HOTEL CREDIT
$$
44 Hang Giay, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3824 3667
www.camellia-hotels.com
Basic rooms and friendly service at this
well-known hotel. One of six properties
of the same name in Hanoi, internet
terminals are located in the lobby, and the
property also offers a host of tour itinerar-
ies. Rooms vary in price from VND500,000
to VND700,000. Some of their other loca-
tions are more budget-friendly.
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
$
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style
hostel in town, with bunk-style beds
mixed or single-sex dorms starting at
VND150,000, plus a couple of double
suites from VND250,000. A place to meet
like-minded fold in the Old Quarter.
HONG NGOC HOTEL
$$$
34 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 5053
With four locations right in the Old Quar-
ter, this is a good option close to Hoan
Kiem Lake. Friendly staff can help you
with any detail like renting a car, motor-
bike, or bicycle. Rooms are compact, with
small but clean bathrooms, and all have
the quality amenities of a proper hotel.
Either ADSL or Wi-Fi connections available.
Some of the locations include sauna,
steam bath and fitness facilities
LITTLE HANOI HOTEL
CREDIT
$
58 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 8648
www.littlehanoihotel.com
Spacious rooms with ADSL broadband
connections starting at around VND600,000
a night. The rooms at the front are more
expensive, and breakfast is included. The
staff speak good English and are very
helpful. Has a number of sister hotels in
town, two of which are located next to
the cathedral. The third is on Tue Tinh,
CREDIT
close to Lenin Park. Check the website
for details.
HO CHI MINH CITY
CARAVELLE HOTEL CREDIT
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1 , Tel: 3823 4999
www.caravellehotel.com
The only hotel in Vietnam to make the
Robb Reports 2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels. Facilities include the
popular ninth-floor Saigon Saigon bar,
Nineteen and Reflections restaurants, Club
Vegas for a flutter, a swimming pool seven
floors up and Qi salon and spa.
CONTINENTAL CREDIT
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: 3829 9201
www.continental-saigon.com
Fted in literature and film, this huge old
hotel with huge old rooms stands at the
absolute centre of town and is the best of
CREDIT
the Saigon Tourist chain. Hard to beat on
charm, and a favourite with tour groups,
this would be one of your first choices if
you wanted to impress a newcomer to
the city.
May 2012 Word | 77
 DUC VUONG HOTEL
AIRLINES $ $$$$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 3920 6992
www.ducvuonghotel.com
AIR ASIA Youll need your laptop to take advantage
25 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem of the free Wi-Fi offered in every room and
Tel: 2220 5351 youll probably be impressed with the low
price, friendly welcome and well-appoint-
www.airasia.com
ed, clean rooms. A modern oasis just a
few steps from the street-level mayhem of
AIR FRANCE the backpacker area.
First Floor, 1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3825 3484 EQUATORIAL
CREDIT
www.airfrance.com.vn $$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel: 3839 7777
AIR MEKONG www.equatorial.com/hcm
Big and businesslike, with seven dining
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
and entertainment outlets, a business
Tel: 37186 399
centre, meeting and function rooms and
www.airmekong.com.vn
a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
Also boasts the biggest banquet facilities
AMERICAN AIRLINES in the city.
99 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
GUEST HOUSE CALIFORNIA
Tel: 3933 0330
$ just one of 17 meeting venues.
www.aa.com
171A Co Bac, Q1, Tel: 3837 8885
A place for exchanging views as well as
CATHAY PACIFIC sleeping, with its communal kitchen and
G/F, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem TV room, this venue ticks all the right
Tel: 3826 7298 boxes when it comes to comfort, cleanli-
www.cathaypacific.com/vn ness and amenities. A stay here will make
you appreciate the pleasure of being a
CHINA AIRLINES guest rather than just a customer.
4th Floor, Opera Business Center, 6B Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 6364 INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
www.china-airlines.com SAIGON
$$$$
EVA AIR
39 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3520 9999
www.intercontinental.com/saigon
2nd Floor,17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Tel: Luxury accommodation with a stylish club
3936 1600 Lounge boasting panoramic views, as
www.evaair.com well as the finest meeting and banquet
facilities in town all designed with the
JAPAN AIRLINES savvy traveller in mind. The 21-floor tower
includes 305 elegantly appointed rooms,
5th Floor, 63 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel:
including 18 suites and a Presidential Suite.
3826 6693
www.vn.jal.com LAN LAN HOTEL 2 CREDIT
$$$
JETSTAR PACIFIC 46 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1. Tel: 3822 7926
www.jetstar.com/vn www.lanlanhotel.com.vn
You cant get much more central than Ben
KOREAN AIR Thanh Market and this modern hotel (one
of many in the area) offers every amenity
2nd Floor, VIT, 519 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh Tel:
you would expect from a mid-range hotel
3934 7247 while keeping its prices close to budget
www.koreanair.com level. The staff are friendly and helpful.
LAO AIRLINES NEW WORLD CREDIT
40 Quang Trung, Hoan Kiem $$$$
Tel: 3942 5362 76 Le Lai, Q1. Tel: 3822 8888
www.laoairlines.com www.newworldsaigon.com
Its list of former guests ranges from U.S.
presidents two Bushes, one Clinton to
LOT AIRLINES Korean teeny bop sensation Rain. If Knut
R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao
the polar bear came to town, hed prob-
Duy Anh, Dong Da ably stay here. Its an ongoing event as
Tel: 3577 2202 well as a hotel. Fends off newer, glitzier
www.lot.com competitors to hold its place as one of the
best luxury stops in town
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Somerset Grand Hanoi, 49 Hai Ba Trung, PARK HYATT CREDIT
$$$$
Hoan Kiem 2 Lam Son Square, Q1. Tel: 3824 1234
Tel: 3826 8820 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
www.malaysiaairlines.com Fabulous-looking hotel in a prime location,
with an attractive lobby bar and all the
SINGAPORE AIRLINES attention to detail you would expect from
International Centre, 17 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem the Hyatt. But wait, theres more. The
Square One restaurant has garnered an
Tel: 3826 8888
excellent reputation and the Xuan Spa by
www.singaporeair.com
the landscaped pool is unbeatable.
THAI AIRWAYS RAMANA HOTEL CREDIT
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3826 $$$
7921 323 Le Van Sy, Q3. Tel: 3843 9999
www.thaiair.com reservation@ramanasaigon.com
www.ramanasaigon.com
TIGER AIRWAYS A 4-star business class hotel, The Ramana
Hotel boasts 293 guestrooms and suites
www.tigerairways.com
and offers a complete range of service
facilities including a Business Centre, a
VIETNAM AIRLINES well-equipped Fitness Room, an outdoor
25 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem swimming pool and the Sawasdee Health
Tel: 6270 0200 Club, The hotel is situated in District 3 an
www.vietnamairlines.com area of Ho Chi Minh City only 2 km from
the city centre and 3 km from the airport.
78 | Word May 2012
CREDIT
RENAISSANCE RIVERSIDE
CREDIT
8-15 Ton Duc Thang, Q1. Tel: 3822 0033
www.renaissancehotels.com
If youve never swum in a pool 21 floors
up, you could rectify that at this luxury
hotel by the Saigon River. As you would
expect from a Marriott property, theres
plenty more here to appreciate the full
range of fitness, spa and business facili-
ties plus one of the best-regarded Chinese
restaurants in the city.
SHERATON CREDIT
$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1. Tel: 3827 2828
www.sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton has bagged one of the best loca-
tions in town and made the most of it,
with its usual mix of luxurious rooms and
first-class facilities topped by an open-air
restaurant 23 floors above the city. The
conference and business facilities are
CREDIT
unmatched the enormous ballroom is
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$ CREDIT
17 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: 3824 1555
www.sofitel.com
True class on an attractive (and historic)
street, offering a mix of rooms and suites,
top-notch facilities, and restaurant cuisine
which can match anything in the city.
Without a doubt one of the nicest places
to stay in the city.
CREDIT
HOI AN & DANANG
CUA DAI CREDIT
$ 10 Pham Ngu Lao, Hue, Tel: 054 382 6561
18A Cua Dai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 2231
Pleasant, small, family-run hotel with a
spacious and faintly colonial air located
between the town and the beach, with
comfortable air-conditioned rooms and
pleasant staff.
FURAMA RESORT & SPA
$$$$ CREDIT
68 Ho Xuan Huong, Danang
Tel: 3821 1888 (HCMC office)
www.furamavietnam.com
Among the first resorts to open in the
country, this venue still scores highly
because of its stunning beachside location
allied to some indulgent touches the
smallest room measures 40 square metres
and a general air of refined luxury, as
typified by the Cafe Indochine restaurant
and the Lagoon poolside bar.
HUY HOANG 1
$ 5 Le Loi, Hue
73 Phan Boi Chau, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 386 1453
Boasts that it is just 0.025km from the
city centre, which translates into being an
excellent base for exploring the old town.
Added to that, you get simple and com-
fortable rooms for around VND400,000.
LIFE RESORT HOI AN CREDIT
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An. Tel: 0510 391 4555
www.life-resorts.com
Recently refurbished after a recent flood,
this award-winning resort is located close
to the charm and bustle of the Old Town
and maintains an emphasis on wellness
and pampering. Its spa combines the
benefits of traditional Chinese medicine,
tai chi, touch and hot stone therapies.
THE NAM HAI CREDIT
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village, Quang Nam
Tel: 0510 394 0000
www.ghmhotels.com
Setting the standard for luxury resorts
in Vietnam, the Nam Hai is the ultimate
relaxation space. Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant
and elegant spa on a lotus pond. This
is just the tip of the iceberg. Each mas-
sive room comes with its own espresso
machine, pre-programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers. Entire villas,
spa villas and pool villas complexes are
also available for rent and each villa has
a view of the sea. A great place to forget
about the city.
130 Minh Mang, Hue. Tel: 054 388 5461
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH
RESORT & SPA CUA DAI BEACH
CREDIT
Tel: 0510 392 7040
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
Pull up some (private) beach and relax,
at this unique and charming resort, which
has been laid out to replicate a traditional
fishing village with small streets, ponds
and village houses. The Annam Asian
restaurant overlooks the sea, theres also
a spa, Thai or Swedish massage, and
fitness centre.
HUE
ANA MANDARA HUE CREDIT
$$$$
Thuan An Town, Phu Vang District, Thua Thien
Hue, Vietnam, Tel: 08 6291 3030
sales1@anamandarahue-resort.com
www.hotelcollectionindochine.com
Located on Thuan An Beach, a 20-minute
drive from central Hue, the five-star Ana
Mandara is the only beach resort with pool
villas in the area. The property has a total
of 78 rooms and villas, including beach
pool villas, beach villas, duplex rooms and
deluxe rooms in a wide range of styles and
decor designed with modern facilities. Of-
fers private rice paddy dinners, beach BBQs
and cruises through the local fish farms.
GUESTHOUSE VAN XUAN
$ LA FERME DU COLVERT
An excellent option for those on a tight
budget, with a comfortable room plus bal-
cony and satellite TV coming in at around
VND200,000. An additional bonus is the
pleasantness of the staff.
IMPERIAL HUE CREDIT
$$$
10 Hung Vuong, Hue
Tel: 054 388 2222
www.imperial-hotel.com.vn
One of the best hotels in the city, and
certainly in the most convenient downtown
location, this high-rise hotel has luxurious
rooms with great city views, a selection of
restaurants, a piano bar and the sumptuous
Royal Spa. You can even hire your own
butler. Internet rates start at VND2.4 million
++ for a deluxe city view room.
LA RESIDENCE CREDIT
$$$$
Tel: 054 383 7475
www.la-residence-hue.com
Built around a core of the former colonial
governors mansion, and maintained in
nautical modern style, this is one of Hues
unique experiences. With ceiling fans and
dark-stained wood furnishings, this is
traditional Indochine at its best. Throw in
an excellent restaurant with river views
and you have a heady mix.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$ CREDIT
Tel: 0510 354 5105
www.domainedetamhai.com
If youre looking for something a bit differ-
ent, the secluded sand island of Tam Hai,
with just a dozen traditional-looking (but
modern) villas with private gardens and
true tropical ambience may be the answer.
There is endless beach, a swimming pool,
and a restaurant to take advantage of the
fresh seafood.
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$ House 100, Quarter 2, Mai Chau
48/3 Le Loi, Hue
Tel: 054 382 6736
A budget option which offers a reliable
and acceptable level of comfort for the
sub-VND400,000 price with the additional
benefit of being near the Perfume River
and having attentive service.
PILGRIMAGE VILLAGE -
BOUTIQUE RESORT & SPA
CREDIT
$$$$
www.pilgrimagevillage.com
A collection of rustic villas located in the
countryside close to Hue and its historical
landmarks. Villas range from the tradi-
tional Vietnamese pool house to the fam-
ily bungalow. The boutique, imperial-era
Vietnam styled resort also holds cooking
classes, makes tour arrangements and
has an on-site spa.
SUN SPA RESORT CREDIT
$$
My Canh, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi, Quang Binh
Tel: 052 384 2999, www.sunsparesortvietnam.com
This top-end resort offers elegant,
comfortable pool villas and bungalows,
and is the only luxury accommodation in
Quang Binh, about 150 miles from Hue. An
ideal base for trips to the UNESCO World
Heritage Site of the Phong Nha caves.
MAI CHAU & HOA BINH
COMMUNAL GUEST HOUSE 1
$$$
Poom Village, Mai Chau, Tel: 0912 320990
One of the larger stilt houses in Poom
Village, the bamboo floor you can expect
to sleep on is more comfortable than you
might expect, and this house has a pleas-
ant view of a lotus pond. Like at all the
other stilt houses here, drink and dance
can be arranged.
CREDIT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh, Tel: 018 382 5662
www.vietnam-aventure.com
This eco-village in Hoa Binh caters to visi-
tors in search of nature. 30 rooms of vary-
ing design in ten houses are surrounded
by rice fields, lakes and hills. Has its own
spa and restaurant.
MAI CHAU GUESTHOUSE
At the farthest end of town, Mai Chau
Tel: 0218 386 7262
This hotel seems to offer bare-bones
amenities, but if you dont fancy sleeping
on the rattan floor of a stilt house, this
is a couple good steps above, and the
rooms are quite inexpensive. Be prepared
for the noise from the karaoke bars which
surround the place.
MAI CHAU LODGE CREDIT
$$$
Tel: 0218 386 8959
signature Six Senses Spa.
www.maichaulodge.com
If real comfort is what you want, this
is surely the best bet in Mai Chau. The
rooms are modern and classy, with room
service, sauna and internet connections.
The newly built Water Lily Cottage offers
a luxury version of the house on stilts.
Give a call for exact directions, or you can
check their website.
MAI CHAU NATURE PLACE
House 38, Ban Lac Village
Tel: 3938 1443
www.maichaunatureplace.com
A perfect mix between a home-stay expe-
rience and comfortable hotel. The private
rooms are beautifully quaint while the
communal sleeping option is more typical
of rural lodges. Both options come with
modern and clean bathrooms, traditional
home-cooked meals, free bicycles and
friendly, in-the-know, staff.
NGOC BACH
$$$$
Tel: 0218 386 7340
If a sturdy bed is what you crave, this
might be your answer. The rooms are
large and clean, with a working television
and shower with hot water. Might not be
the Hilton, but for an aching back its a
step above a bamboo floor and a mat.
NAM DINH & NINH BINH NOVOTEL NHA TRANG NORTH-EAST
$$$
CREDIT
CUC PHUONG GUEST HOUSE 50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang BANG GIANG HOTEL
Tel: 058 625 6900
$$$$ $
www.novotel-nhatrang.com 1 Kim Dong, Cao Bang. Tel: 026 385 3431
396 Quoc Lo 14, Dong Xoai, Binh Phuoc
This stylish four-star hotel is centrally
Tel: 0651 387 9764 A large, government-run hotel popular
located on the main street of the resort with tour groups. Rooms are super-sized,
Accommodation here is quite basic, but
this place offers a good deal in relation city of Nha Trang. Along with 154 modern with big windows and some even have
rooms, each with terrace and a stunning
to the other places around, if you want a views. They also take credit cards, which
sea view, Novotel Nha Trang offers a pool,
place to sleep before a long day of park might not be expected here. Room rates
touring. spa, restaurant, bar and meeting room are around VND400,000.
catering for up to 200 delegates.
HOANG NGUYEN HOTEL
CUC PHUONG NATIONAL PARK
SAO MAI HOTEL $
$
99 Nguyen Thien Thuat, Nha Trang 84 Pho Tran Dang Ninh, Lang Son, Tel: 025 387 0349
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh Binh
Tel: 058 382 7412
Tel: 030 384 8006 This place offers basic accommodation at
www.cucphuongtourism.com Try to get a seaview room with private a good price. Dont expect too much, but
Park accommodation, in modern rooms, balcony at this friendly and very cheap as an en route stop-over, Hoang Nguyen
hotel, which also has a rooftop terrace.
will definitely do.
stilt houses and detached bungalows,
includes basic amenities and comforts in Rooms have basic but adequate facilities
proportion to prices, which range from and it is well located. HOANG SON HAI
VND100,000 to VND500,000 per night. 57D Thanh Tam, Lang Son. Tel: 025 371 0479
Rooms available at park hq, the park cen- SUNRISE BEACH RESORT Although it may be a bit hard to commu-
$$$
tre, and on the road linking the two. CREDIT
nicate with the staff if youre Vietnamese
12-14 Tran Phu, Nha Trang
isnt up to snuff, they are eager to help. The
THANH THUY GUEST HOUSE Tel: 058 382 0999 rooms are exceptionally nice for the area.
$ www.sunrisehotelvietnam.com
128 Le Hong Phong, Ninh Binh Luxury boutique hotel in the city centre HUY HOAN HOTEL CREDIT
Tel: 030 387 1811 and right across from the beach is well $
Refurbished in 2004, this has big, clean geared up for the family and business 14 Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang
rooms that are great value for the money. trade, with kids room, beach recreation, Tel: 0219 386 1288
There is an in-house restaurant that will restaurants offering Japanese, Vietnamese The large, comfortable sleeping quarters
make it redundant to eat elsewhere. Pric- and European cuisine, pool bar, beach bar, here may come as a surprise in these
es range from VND100,000 to VND400,000 sky bar and a Qi spa. parts. But these are the things that have
for a double deluxe room. The staff speak made Huy Hoan so popular. Several tour
very good English. WHALE ISLAND RESORT CREDIT
groups use the place as a stopover, and
THUY ANH HOTEL
$$ the staff is adept at fulfilling their needs.
Tel: 058 384 0501
$$ www.whaleislandresort.com SAO MAI HOTEL
55A Truong Han Sieu, Ninh Binh. Tel: 030 387 1602 This remote and unspoiled island some $
This hotel is slightly more expensive than 60km north of Nha Trang has been made Nguyen Trai, Ha Giang. Tel: 0219 386 3019
its neighbors, but the reason is apparent into a stylish getaway, with traditional One of the first guesthouses you see as
once you walk in. The rooms in the newer bamboo bungalows on the beach and you arrive in town, location has made
building are especially nice and, together plenty of opportunity for serious nature this guesthouse a popular stop off point.
with the better than decent restaurant
watching, with abundant marine life and The sleeping accommodations are clean
downstairs, this one can make for a good an array of birds. Onsite seafood restau- and comfortable, enough to enjoy a good
stop over. rant and bar. nights sleep and shower.
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA CREDIT
$$$$
Beachside, Tran Phu, Nha Trang
Tel: 058 352 2222
www.sixsenses.com/evason-anamandara-
nhatrang
Theres a generous 2.6 hectares of private
beachside garden to get lost in here, and
much to marvel at, with villa-style accom-
modation furnished in traditional native
woods, verandah dining, pool bar and the
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa (40km north
of Nha Trang). Tel: 058 362 2384
On a secluded almost deserted
promontory north of Nha Trang, with
accommodation ranging from comfortable
guest rooms to basic outdoor bamboo
shelters, this budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature
certainly a change from mainstream tourism.
The owners arrange pick-up from Nha Trang
and the down-to-earth resort maintains a
deliberate, family atmosphere. A real gem.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY
NINH VAN BAY
CREDIT
$$$$
Van Dang Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa.
el: 058 372 8222
www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-Hideaway-
Ninh-Van-Bay
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted this
its top hotel of 2006, and its not hard to
see why. The location is stunning, on a
bay which can only be reached by boat,
and all the accommodation, amenities
and facilities are top-drawer. So, naturally,
is the price. Internet rates start at VND15
million++ for a beach pool villa.
May 2012 Word | 79
THANH LOAN HOTEL
$ $$
V159 Vuon Cam, Cao BangTel: 026 385 7026
Thanh Loan is a smaller hotel with more
attention paid to the details. Still, expect
basic accommodation, but, all said, a good
bargain.
THAI NGUYEN HOTEL
2 Hoang Van Thu, Thai Nguyen, Tel: 0280 385 2803
Your standard two-star establishment,
Thai Nguyen is one of the best (and one
of the only) choices in the vicinity. Its
quite a large hotel considering its location,
so booking shouldnt be a problem.
NORTH-WEST
HUYEN TRAN GUEST HOUSE
$$$
2 Hoang Van Thu, Lai Chau
Tel: 0231 387 5829
Offers reasonable guesthouse-style rooms
with air conditioning, some of them with
balconies. Take a look at the rooms before
you rent as the quality may vary.
KHACH SAN DIEN BIEN PHU
$$ CREDIT
849 Duong 7-5, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu
Tel: 0230 382 5103
Pretty much what it sounds like: a Dien
Bien Phu guest house. Rooms are made
for sleeping and not much else, but at
good prices. Cleanliness and comfort are
acceptable and about average for this
type of establishment.
MUONG THANH HOTEL
$$ CREDIT
25 Pho 1, Muong Thanh, Dien Bien Phu
Tel: 0230 381 0043
This Soviet-era hotel has a unique style
that makes it one of the most visited. So,
despite its size, it may be a good idea
to book in advance. Theres a charge for
the swimming pool, even if youre stay-
ing there. But, hey, theres a pool. The
rooms are better than average and have
satellite TV.
BIKE RENTALS
MR CAO MOTORBIKE RENTAL
106 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0912 094464
QUANS MOTORBIKE &
BICYCLE RENTALS
70 Hang Bac, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0904 244941
Standard rental shop doing hire by the day
and by the month.
VIETNAM MOTORCYCLE
ADVENTURES
36 Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan Kiem (down alley
in between No. 34 & No. 36)
Tel: 3904 5049
Bespoke motorbike tours, rental of automatic
and manual bikes plus repairs.
VIP BIKE RENTALS
64, Alley 71 Tan Ap, Tay Ho (off Tan Ap Street,
close to Sofitel Plaza)
Tel: 0914 931390
Bike rentals and repairs. Good reputation.
Formerly part of the Blue Dragon Foundation.
80 | Word May 2012
SON LA TRADE UNION HOTEL
CREDIT
4 Duong, 26-8 Rd, Son La
Tel: 022 385 5313
The explanation of the name is a mystery,
but with 100 rooms it could probably
house a mid-size union. Not the cheap-
est place in town, but the rooms are
extra large and fairly well-kept. If you
want to spend some time with satellite
television, this is your place. Price range
is VND500,000 to VND600,000, breakfast
included.
SUNRISE HOTEL
$ Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc. Tel: 090 338 2207
53 Duong 26 8, Son La
Tel: 022 385 8798
Sunrise makes for a decent stay for those
travelling between Hanoi and Dien Bien
Phu. In relation to the other hotels on the
road, the rooms are very clean and the
staff helpful. A night here will run around
VND400,000.
PHAN THIET / MUI NE
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$ CREDIT
54 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet
Tel: 062 384 7322
www.blueoceanresort.com
After renovation in 2007, Blue Ocean
Resort is now under the management of
Life Resorts. Its luxury makeover includes
a large swimming pool and swim-up pool
bar as well as a childrens activity play-
ground. Another new addition is an Irish
bar. One of the better appointed resorts
in the area.
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT &
SPA
$$$$ CREDIT
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh, Ham Thuan Nam,
Binh Thuan. Tel: 062 368 2222
www.princessannam.com
The first all-villa luxury boutique resort in
Vietnam, the Princess dAnnam is set on
Ke Ga Bay, about a four-hour drive from
Ho Chi Minh Ciry and 35km south of Phan
Thiet. With a sumptuous spa, original
architecture, eight swimming pools and
a 24-hour butler service, this is one of
the most luxurious resorts in the country.
Definitely one of the most exclusive.
SHADES APARTMENTS
$$$ CREDIT
Tel: 062 743 237
www.shadesmuine.com
Top quality resort offering a small selec-
tion of luxury and attractively designed
apartments and studios right on the
beach, with fully equipped and modern
units. Entertainment options include
windsurfing, kitesurfing, antique sidecars,
bike tours and dune buggy rides. Has a
decent pool and dining options.
THE SAILING CLUB CREDIT
$$$
24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet
Tel: 062 384 7440
Much more than its name suggests, with
beautiful landscaped tropical gardens
leading onto a stretch of pristine beach
and an outdoor bar, well-positioned to
make the best of the scenery. Has a mix
of comfortable rooms and bungalows, and
has recently done some refurbishment.
Offers quad-biking, kitesurfing, paragliding
and, of course, sailing.
PHU QUOC
CHEN LA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$ CREDIT
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien
Giang, Tel: 0773 995895
reservation@chenla-resort.com
Open since Nov. 2008, this 37-bungalow
resort provides a serene atmosphere
along with first-class spa treatment and a
mediterranean-themed restaurant.
LA VERANDA CREDIT
$$$$
Ward 1, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Quoc
Tel: 0773 982888 / 3823 7645
(Sales office) www.laverandaresort.com
Boutique luxury among exotic greenery
and a white sand beach, La Veranda has
beautifully-designed rooms with cool tiles
in traditional designs and dark woods, a
stunning swimming pool, an all-natural
spa, a beach grill and a fine fusion restau-
rant overlooking the beach.
MANGO BAY CREDIT
$$
www.mangobayphuquoc.com
A getaway in the true sense, combining
an eco-friendly approach with a gorgeous
beachside location. Wildlife abounds on
land and in the sea, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, and there are
no TVs and telephones around. Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar, which also
serves up excellent food in the restaurant
on the edge of the sea.
PHU QUOC RESORT THANG LOI
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc
Tel: 0918 073 494 / 0773 985002
Secluded budget bungalow-style resort,
which lies in a beachside coconut palm
plantation with small basic bungalows
adding to the castaway effect. The restau-
rant serves fresh seafood. Its laid-back
and simple. And cheap.
SAPA
AUBERGE HOTEL
$ A big new hotel, Green World has 100
7 Muong Hoa, Sapa. Tel: 020 387 1243
Despite being in the centre of town, some
of the back rooms offer nice views. There
is also a good French-style restaurant
downstairs, which is what you might
expect considering the dcor and name.
Prices vary, but a room should generally
cost around VND400,000.
BAMBOO HOTEL
$$
18 Muong Hoa, Sapa
Tel: 020 387 1075
One of the best things about the Bamboo
Hotel is the view, so make sure you check
out the room first some are better than
others. There is aircon if needed, but you
might want to ask for extra blankets in
winter, in spite of electric heaters. Rooms
here are between VND700,000 and VND1
million a night. The premium here is on
the views.
CAT CAT GUESTHOUSE
$$
Cat Cat Road. Tel: 020 387 1218
Notable for having probably the best
view in town from its bar restaurant, Cat
Cat Guesthouse has plain rooms at very
reasonable rates. A fairly steep set of
steps leads to the block of rooms, most
of which have big windows and balconies,
and, for the cold winter, log fireplaces.
HMONG MOUNTAIN RETREAT
$ clean, with two double beds and balcony.
Km 6 Sapa, Ban Ho Road Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: 020 3872 130
www.hmongmountainretreat.com
A large stilt house, five clay-clad bunga-
lows and one 70-year-old Hmong House is
what waits for you amid the rolling hills
of Lao Cai, 6km outside of Sapa. The eco-
resorts team are all local and will help
you enjoy the surroundings of the Muong
Hoa Valley.
SAPA ROOMS
$$
18 Phang Xi Pan, Sapa. Tel: 020 6505 228
www.saparooms.com
Located in the heart of Sapa town this
simple but comfortable boutique hotel oc-
cupies an unprecedented corner location
overlooking the terraced valleys of Sapa
and not far from the energy of the local
market. Rooms are decorated with antique
hardwood furniture and contemporary
artwork from local artists with touches of
ethnic minority culture.
TOPAS ECOLODGE CREDIT
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa
Tel: 020 387 2404
www.topas-eco-lodge.com
For the environmentally conscientious,
the only place to stay in Sapa is the
Topas Ecolodge. 25 individual lodges
are located on the hills overlooking the
valleys. Employing solar technology and a
wastewater facility give it eco-cred. Topas
also organises treks and bicycle tours. It
takes over an hour to get from Sapa to
the lodge; transportation is provided.
VICTORIA SAPA CREDIT
$$$
Tel: 020 387 1522
www.victoriahotels-asia.com
Topping the list of Sapa resorts, the
Victoria is not priced for the backpacker
(rooms range from $135 to $250 per
night). The many amenities include satel-
lite TV, in-room coffeemakers and safes,
and a hilltop health club, tennis court
and pool. The entire resort is tastefully
decorated with panoramic views of the
town below.
TAM DAO
GREEN WORLD HOTEL
$
Khu Nhi Mat, Tam Dao. Tel: 0211 382 4315
rooms ranging in price from VND400,000
to VND600,000 a night. Because of its
height, the top rooms have nice views
of the town and surroundings. There is
a restaurant and bar with billiards, and
internet in the lobby.
HANG KHONG HOTEL
$ www.freewheelin-tours.com
Khu 1 Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4208
Another one of the newer hotels in
Tam Dao, Hang Khong caters mainly to
Vietnamese tourists. But the price is right,
hovering around VND500,000. Many of
the rooms have balconies, but all have
comfortable beds and hot showers.
HUONG LIEN HOTEL
$ 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Khu I Thi, Tam Dao, Tel: 0211 382 4282
Just your basic hotel, but if what you want
is a bed and satellite television, this is
your place. Cant beat the price at around
VND200,000. Beware, though, prices are
subject to change.
MELA HOTEL
$$
Thi Tran, Tam Dao
Tel: 0211 382 4321
Probably the prime place to stay in Tam
Dao, the Mela has a swimming pool that
might come in handy if youre in the
mountains to escape the heat of Hanoi
summer. Rooms are comfortable and
The staff can assist if you want to explore
the natural surroundings. Prices between
VND800,000 and VND1.6 million.
TRAVEL SERVICES
AIR MEKONG
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 37186 399
www.airmekong.com.vn
With presence in eight different cities
including Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Con
Dao, Phu Quoc and Pleiku, Air Mekong
is the ideal way to see more of Vietnam.
It offers 30 daily flights and is a realistic
alternative to the time-consuming train
and bus combo.
ASIA WINGS TRAVEL COMPANY
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 9343 0888
Founded in 1998, the travel company
caters to both corporate and international
travel. Services include ticketing, hotel
reservation, travel insurance, transfer and
visa arrangement. Outbound tours and
packages throughout the world are also
available.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)
94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist., Ha Noi
Tel: (84-4) 3 828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at the service of
all Vietnamese and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy, hassle-free
travel around the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards of customer
care. This premium Travel Agency has
been created to help travelers select their
destinations and organize their trips, take
care of the time-consuming procedures
and ensure that all journeys are enjoyable
and successful. BTA customizes leisure
and corporate travel plans while offering a
selected range of small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
26, Tran Nhat Duat, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 2150
9 XuanDieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 5555
Golden Westlake, 151 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho
Tel: 3728 2735
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel agency with
an extensive operational track record in
the Indochina region and beyond. Provid-
ing up-market services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture through per-
sonalised tours. Also find travel desks at
the Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinen-
tal hotels, which are open on weekends
and holidays.
FREEWHEELIN TOURS
2nd floor, 2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 2743
Responsible travel tourism company
offering intimate, bespoke tours that give
customers a more authentic taste of
Vietnam. Motorbike journeys, homestays,
visits to ethnic minority villages, national
parks, waterfalls and spectacular scenery
are all part of the mix, with part of the
proceeds going to a number of respon-
sible tourism initiatives.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides
customers with safe, high quality,
diverse, small-group adventure tours
to both popular and isolated locations
in Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a
focus on off-the-beaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism initiatives. Also
provides to excursions to more well-worn
destinations.
HG TRAVEL
47 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising in small-group
tours around Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole representative
agent for Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa - www.kenya-airways.com),
American Airlines (www.aa.com) and
Turkish Airlines (www.thy.com).
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Indochina Land is a French local travel
agency for expatriates and tourists who
want to see northern Vietnam in a
personal and tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of Vietnamese
and French who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually
focused on freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They will show
you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM
57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh
Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is an international
travel company operating in Vietnam since
1992, offering innovative day tours, short
breaks and small group adventures. With
expert guides and guaranteed departures,
Intrepid focuses on real life experiences
in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Mekong Delta,
Halong Bay, Sapa and beyond to get you
up close to Vietnam's people, cuisine,
history and culture.
JEWEL OF THE DELTA
Tel: 01282 471716
booking@jewelofthedelta.com
A cruise boat on the Red River offering
cocktail and party cruises every week
with free snacks, a free cocktail and free
shisha in one of the VIP rooms. Private
cruises are available for parties, meetings,
receptions, and dinners for groups or
organisations. A unique place to chill out.
LOT AIRLINES
R402, 4th floor, Dao Duy Anh Tower, 9 Dao Duy
Anh, Dong Da, Tel: 3577 2202
www.lot.com
LOT serves Poland and back three times
a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sun-
days. The flight arrives in Warsaw in the
early morning, and because of the citys
location in the middle of Europe, its an
ideal airport for transit to and from other
European hubs.
LUXURY TRAVEL CO., LTD
5 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3927 4120
www.LuxuryTravelVietnam.com
Vietnams First Luxury Tour Company,
offers you carefree luxury travel so you
and your family can focus on the fun, not
the details. Challenge your skills at the
countrys most spectacular golf courses.
Soak up the sun while being soothed
by the sound of breaking surf. Hunt for
high-fashion couture in the most elegant
cities of Vietnam. Envision any vacation
experience you want; name it, we deliver
SYRENA CRUISES
Tel: 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay
experience while enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the quencher
youre looking for. Forget drinking games
and backpackers by relaxing on one of the
two wooden boats from the fleet. Alone,
as a couple or with a group, 34 luxurious
cabins and suites are all ready for action.
All you have to do is decide on how long
you want to holiday for.
THE SAPA SISTERS
Tel: 01282 273717
www.sapasisters.webs.com
The best trekking guides in Sapa showing
you the key spots with the guarantee
of an unforgettable experience. Sapa
Sisters aims to empower young HMong
women and give them fair pay for their
skilled services. Read their reviews on
Trip Advisor.
XIN CHAO HANOI
www.xinchaomap.com
Forget the inaccuracy of Google Maps,
for a real quality plan of the capital, the
meticulous versions created by Xin Chao
Hanoi are the presently the best available.
Providing tourists with access to the city's
hidden charms, secret lanes, gardens and
pagodas, check their website for a list of
vendors.
May 2012 Word | 81
OUT & ABOUT
LISTINGS
BAR & NIGHTCLUBS 082
CAFES 084
RESTAURANTS - FRENCH 085
RESTAURANTS - INDIAN 085
RESTAURANTS - INTERNATIONAL 085
RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN 088
RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE &
KOREAN 88
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
17 COWBOYS
MUSIC HALL/LONG BAR
98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3942 6822
5pm to 12am
Cowgirls, lasers, belly dancing and Filipino
bands who never shy away from a good
Guns N' Roses cover. Drinks are a little
pricey, but part of the money is going to
the show. Expect a lively atmosphere and
the band will take requests, but 1980s
rock tunes are favoured.
AMAZON BAR + Owned by the people behind Face Club,
TOURIST BAR/CLUB
32 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
This newcomer to Ta Hiens Bia Hoi Junc-
tion is an Aztec-themed three story drink-
ing hole and dance space. Balcony on
the second floor, which provides a great
view over the beer drinkers below, and
dance space on the third floor. CDJs and a
promise of dubstep and drink specials on
the board outside are bound to go down
well among the areas party massive.
BAMBOO BAR
CLASSIC FRENCH
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen,
Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 6919
7am to 10pm
Set up like a traditional colonial-era bar
space with dark wooden plank flooring,
bamboo roofing, wicker chairs and hand-
held fan crafted ceiling fans, both during
the day and at night there is a relaxed,
timeless ambience here. The drinks focus
here is on Martini-based and classic
cocktails with a huge wine list and aged
spirits also making an appearance. Also
a great place for a morning or afternoon
coffee.
ICONS 101
AIRCONDITIONING
WI-FI
NON-SMOKING AREA
DELIVERY
+ HAPPY HOUR
LIVE MUSIC
DJ
82 | Word May 2012
visit wordhanoi.com for a
comprehensive list of our listings
RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST
ASIAN 088
RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE 088
RESTOBARS 089
COLUMNS
FOOD BUFF 086
MUSIC BUFF 089
MAP TAY HO 090
BAR BETTA
RETRO CAF BAR
34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3734 9134
haimtc@gmail.com
8am to midnight
This bar is every bit as quirky as the Czech
moped its named after. Inside every
surface is festooned with a medley of
objects ranging from gramaphones to retro
TVs. The rooftop terrace is an awesome
place for a sundowner or a morning coffee.
Eclectic and like nothing else in Hanoi.
CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR
73A Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung
Thursday to Saturday 7pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a foosball table,
no smoking and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly what it wants to
be and thats refreshing. The space is a
part time venue for smaller acts and DJs.
The venue is hip, comfortable and will
likely provide the serious drinker with a
reliable place to pull up a stool and take
pulls in a relaxed haven.
CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL
1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0904 032829
8pm to late
Last building on the right before Hang
Buom, this popular with the French (and
everyone else) watering hole is a classic.
Has the same Old Quarter vibe; small,
cosy and personal with funky twists and
an awesome logo. Spread over two floors
with good tunes, drinks specials and a
foosball table, Cheeky is open till late.
Also does tasty paninis into the early
hours.
DRAGONFLY + LATE DIVE BAR
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem
93 Phung Hung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 4926 2177
11am - late
One of the better venues in the Old Quar-
ter for dancing on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space, cheap drinks
and a mix of chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese
crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the dance floor. If
you dont feel like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with one of the
two lounges on the second floor. The
sister venue on Phung Hung has a bigger
menu and an earlier opening hour (11am
instead of 6pm) but still keeps with the
shisha, pool table and dance floor combo
so popular on Hang Buom.
EZ RIDER +
POOL HALL / LIVE MUSIC / CLUB
55 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
8am to midnight
A potential gem in the heart of the Old
Quarter. While its themed to the Easy Rider
vibe out front, this huge two-storey venue
is a jack of all trades it has a bar, live
music stage, pool tables, hookahs, a VIP
room and a night club with a decent sound
set up. Ideal for private functions and party
promoters. Club stays open till late.
FATCAT BAR + Just a few yards from the banks of
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT
25 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem Tel: 5333 6087
www.linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner and the
cobblestoned end of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar
is a small establishment from the minds
behind the party and event organisers,
LinkHanoi. The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto the sidewalk
as well as a small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials, reasonable
bottles deals starting at VND500,000 and a
DJ on the decks make up the mix.
FLOW BAR +
DANCEHALL/BAR
61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
5pm to late
Previously known as Dracula Bar, this
watering hole tucked upstairs behind a
hotel is around the corner from Ta Hien.
A double-sided bar splits up a pool table
space, lounge area and dance floor. The
smoke machine can be a bit much, but
the music is a decent mix of pop and
house. Never crowded and open late,
free shots are given out every hour on
the hour.
FUNKY BUDDHA +
ELECTRO LOUNGE
2 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem
8pm to late
the low, LED-lit venue has the feel of a
VIP room situated in a larger club, only
it's not. While techno and trance are the
genre's of choice spun in the establish-
ment by live DJs, patrons treat the space
more like a lounge than a dancehall and
typically order bottle service and cocktails.
One of the Ta Hien mainstays.
HAIR OF THE DOG + lafeeverte@hoteldelopera.com
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE
32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
10am to late
In the same building as the old Bucket
Bar, Hair of the Dog, the first floor offers
a large drinking space, graphic artwork,
sidewalk seating and a dance floor. Up
the spiral staircase, theres the late-night
bar and shisha lounge complete with
beanbags. Drawing in a mix of expats,
backpackers and locals, when the bars
across the street shut down, the mayhem
continues in The Dog.
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE + LATE NIGHT LOCAL
62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 1943
3pm to late
Often a bit dark and somewhat gloomy,
The Noodle is still a hit with long term
residents. With its all-hour eating options
ranging from cheese toasties and pizzas to
grilled cod and bun cha and its popular
happy hour, this Old Quarter old-timer is still
up there with the options. Between 11pm
and 12.30am, local beers go for VND15,000
and mixers go for VND30,000. Friendly staff
and talkative patrons included.
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE
27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
Tel: 01887 487 426
www.hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, English-style pub
garden area and an upstairs space dedi-
cated to live music and live production,
Hanoi Rock City is the only venue in the
capital of its kind. Has weekly live events
featuring bands both from Vietnam and
overseas established and up and com-
ing. Email jimihendrix@hanoirockcity.com
for more information or check out their
page on Facebook.
HO GUOM XANH CLUB
STAGE AND TABLE CLUB
32 Le Thai To, Tel: 3828 8806
8pm to 11.45pm
Hoan Kiem Lake, this giant pantheon
of a nightclub seems more at home in
Bangkok than in the capital. With DJs,
go-go dancers and an ear splitting sound
system, Ho Guom Xanh is a great place to
dance around a table, if youre willing,
while enjoying expensive top shelf bottle
service in the heart of the city.
HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 6377
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4 group, which
now has its offices in the establishments
upstairs areas, this bar-cum-restaurant
outfitted with comfortable, stylish furnish-
ings is famed for its luxurious rice wine
liquors and newly created cocktail class.
Does regular events on the first floor and
also has a creative Vietnamese food menu
based on cuisine sold at other restaurants
in the chain.
IRISH WOLFHOUND + ELECTRO GRUNGE CLUB
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 2212 6821
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole with seat-
ing on the pavement is a great spot to
enjoy a tall dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it lacks in
gaudy decorations, it makes up for with
a constant stream of regulars, occasional
live Irish music and billiards on the third
floor. Has a decent food menu and even
better pizzas.
LA FE VERTE
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 6282 5555
7am to 2am
Meaning the green fairy an allusion to
the hallucinatory effects of absinthe which
was drunk extensively in colonial Vietnam
understated lighting, a laid-back lounge
atmosphere, a good music selection and
ultra-contemporary interior design make
up the mix at this downstairs bar in Hotel
de lOpera. Expect a good selection of cre-
ative cocktails and an extensive wine list.
Opens late with a DJ taking to the decks
on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
LONG PLAY CAF
9B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0914 339439
lpcafe@yahoo.com.vn
9am to late
This quirky bar and living room gets busi-
est in the later hours. Down in the bar,
plasma screens and an iPod station mix
with a dance floor and comically named
cocktails. Upstairs, theres a cushioned
living room a pleasant space with a low
ceiling and shisha. Throw in a dartboard,
sell and swap book shelves, Jenga and
some tasty toasted sandwiches, and it can
be hours of fun. The dried buffalo nosh
from Tay Bac in the north is a must.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LOUNGE AND BAR
7 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 3104
5am to 2am
One of the few staple bars in the city that
hosts an equal number of ex-pats, locals
and tourists. With cheap drinks, funky,
slightly ethnic decor and one of the most
amiable owners in town, Mao's is always
a great place to start off or finish the
night. Sing-a-longs and dancing welcome
at one of the most popular drinking spots
on Ta Hien.
MAY PUB + hostesses, bottles of whiskey and a DJ
LAID-BACK FIX
2 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0917 897630
A curving neon sign marks the small
entrance to May Pub, which stands on the
corner of Nam Ngu and Phan Boi Chau.
The pub hosts a laid-back bar atmosphere
with old Hollywood photographs, free
billiards and darts and low-key live music.
The menu combines traditional cocktails Roots stays open late playing African and
with offerings like Russian string cheese
a late-night brew and dairy fix. Wednesday
and Friday nights are Buy One Get One
Free for ladies.
MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem
8pm to late
Lasers, pulsating trance, bottle service and
nightly model shows. This venue is largely
filled with flashy Vietnamese youngsters
or older business types flashing their
wads. Bottle service is a must, which is
a little pricey, so if you ain't got enough
money then you probably won't be stick-
ing around to see the honeys.
PHUC TAN
51 / 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan Kiem
6pm to late
Hanoi's favourite after hours dancehall/
trance den. Throw shapes on either of
the two floors that have regular DJs while
dancing to rapacious electronic beats or
enjoy the Red River's breeze and snack on
a kebab as you catch up with all of the
city's regular night owls. The terrace out
back has great views of Long Bien Bridge
at night.
PLAY BAR +
GAMING LOUNGE
104 Bach Dang, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0621 0212
huongnmd@gmail.com
9am to midnight
If youre looking for a more active night
out, this gaming lounge has it all. White
leather sofas, and plasma screens hooked
up to Xbox 360 Kinect, Playstation 3 Move
etc and more. Challenge your friends to
games while enjoying a western-style food
menu and a decent selection of beverag-
es. When you get a little too competitive,
you can cool down in the lounge area and
gear up for your next big win.
PILSNER URQUELL + stocked to the ceiling with comfort foods.
EUROPEAN BREW HALL
10 Nguyen Bieu, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 2288
Modeled after a brewery, bar and bowling
alley in the Czech Republic, Pilsner Urquell
has an old Europe feel particularly in
the private rooms lined with glass beer
mugs, thick cuts of dark wood furniture
and semi-circular booths. With the UN-
meeting-of-a-menu, customers can choose
from goose dishes, noodles, fried apples,
an assortment of cheeses and several
other options. Perfect location for big
gatherings.
POLITE PUB +
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 0959
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one
of the oldest pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh continues to
be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic English-style pub, Po-
lite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace in the nightly
conversations at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
Q PUB +
BOTTLE BASED DANCE CLUB
61 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0915 381180. qbuphanoi@gmail.com
A glitzy, spacious basement club tucked
away in the corner where Luong Ngoc
Quyen meets Hang Giay. Its a laser, mir-
rors and disco ball affair with high tables,
usually playing a mixture of trance and
house. Runs a number of spirits offers on
different days of the week. Ask for details.
ROOTS +
REGGAE CHILLOUT BAR
2 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
5pm to late
With a reggae theme, the French-run
Caribbean music with some salsa thrown
in for good measure. Laid back vibes. A
good, late-night, Old Quarter option set
on a first floor. The entrance is next to the
Irish Wolfhound.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR
20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to Wednesday,
4pm to 2am Thursday to Saturday
While there are a few rooftop bars in the
capital, few hold a candle to the view on
offer at the Summit Lounge. With a chilled
but lively ambience, top shelf cocktails,
and a Southeast Asian fusion bar menu,
the Summit Lounge is a great place to
pitch yourself above the madness and
peer down at the chaos below in peace.
Sunsets are particularly special.
TEMPLE BAR +
DANCEFLOOR / LONG BAR
8 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6675 7908
7pm to 2am
A relative newcomer and an instant favou-
rite, located in party mile, Temple Bar is a
good choice for late night fun. The long,
thin establishment is a bar out front with
decks and some tiles out back usually
hosting electro pop DJs or sets from the
likes of Link Hanoi. Has drinks specials
most days and is guaranteed to be
crammed at the weekend. Popular among
locals, expats and tourists.
TAY TAP +
MEET-UP SPOT
100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6917
www.taytap.com
Filled with wooden furnishings and a
downstairs bar with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and spirits on the
shelves this newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes of both East
and West. For those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe or grilled cheese,
youll be glad to know the kitchen is
TET BAR
LATE NIGHT LOCAL
2A Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 3050
6pm to 5am
This small and personal one-and-a-half
floor bar starts to get busy at around
11pm and is popular with expats of all
nationalities, despite having a French
flavour. Run by the indomitable Thanh and
once called Le Maquis, the Tet Bar these
days has a slightly cluttered feel to it, but
nonetheless continues to pull in the punt-
ers. Open very, very late.
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE
47 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 1874
8am to midnight
A stone's throw from Ta Hien, this bar-
cum-lounge-cum-restaurant has all of
the atmosphere present in bars scattered
throughout the Old Quarter without
being a dive. Enjoy a mixed drink, tacos
or a Vietnamese staple starter with the
occasional live DJ breaking out classic
funk, soul and hip hop in the comfortable
furnishings or on the back patio.
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: 6675 9838
www.tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar
May 2012 Word | 83
on the main drag of Xuan Dieu is perpetu-
ally crowded with regulars drinking out
front on plastic stools. Notorious for its
mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh
to order, Tracys is most famous for their
draft beers, claiming to serve the coldest
draft beer in Hanoi, and always in a
frosted mug. For those missing their dose
of North American sports, they play all
day via satellite on two plasmas.
TUNNEL BAR
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
11B Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 0936 063303
4pm to late
Slim but stylish two-storey bar located
just at the bend on Bao Khanh. The friend-
ly staff can make a range of well-made
and colourful cocktails. Frequent DJ nights
and parties are commonplace at this
watering hole that caters to both foreign
and Vietnamese. Does an excellent happy
hour with specials on Ricard.
WINES CORNER
WINE AND CIGAR LOUNGE
2 Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3939 3477
9am to 1am
The ambience at the relaxed wine bar
near the Metropole screams red wine
the walls are painted a warm yellow, the
exposed brick adds a touch of cool and
the wine barrels-turned-tables are taste-
ful. Too bad its often awkwardly empty.
Features fine wines, cigars and Vietnam-
ese and international snacks.
CAFES
ALIGN 3D
POPULAR VIETNAMESE
1 Ma May, Hoan Kiem; 10A Khuc Hao, Ba Dinh
7am to 11pm
Popular with young Vietnamese, the Align
cafes are always busy. The younger venue
on Khuc Hao is hidden down a bamboo
alley and has three outdoor seating areas,
one of which makes you feel like youre
sat under a waterfall. The other two are
on the roof, and from the middle of this
embassy-type street, the sound of motor-
bikes is replaced with tweeting birds. 3D
pictures on the walls of each floor take
you back to the old city, before KFC and
Parkson. Even to times before the French.
AVALON CAF
LAKE VIEW LOUNGE
73 Cau Go; 9 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 0801, www.avaloncafelounge.com
7am to 11.30pm
Popular for its views of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this lounge and bar is always busy. With
comfy seating and balconies, the lounge
and sky garden offer a pleasant escape
from city-centre chaos. The smoothies
are creamy and renditions of popular
street dishes are spot on. Elsewhere in
the eclectic menu, pizzas and pastas
cost around VND100,000 and steak in red
wine sauce goes for VND179,000. Classic
pop instrumentals play by day, and come
night, the chilled vibe is tainted slightly
with electro pop.
CAF LAM
91 Nguyen Huu Huan
Always busy, the caf has traditional
charm in old quarter. Lining the walls,
old world drawings line the walls floor to
ceiling. They serve a variety of teas and
coffee, as well as many jars of pickled
looking vegetables and less identifiable
things. Grab a seat on the low wooden
tables and take advantage of their strong
Wi-fi.
CHILL OUT CAFE
TEEN SCENE CAF
89A Ly Nam De, Ba Dinh Tel: 3223 3246
9am to 10pm
This hangout spot is styled for locals in
their teeny-bop years and early twenties.
The dcor is kitschy and cozy, there is
even a piano, used occasionally in live
84 | Word May 2012
music shows. They serve sweet drinks
at a reasonable price along with lots of
treats like brownies in a variety of new-
wave flavors.
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the shores of Hoan
Kiem Lake, this Saigonese franchise tries
its hand with a variety of different western
dishes at reasonable prices, especially con-
sidering the location. Loaded with booths
and a steady, young Vietnamese crowd, the
establishment is a great place to squash
a sandwich or bowl of pasta and people
watch. Oh, and they also do coffee, too.
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE
28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho Tel: 3715 4240
www.coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition to the Hanoi
coffee scene has opened a little closer
to town than the first outlet in Pico Mall.
Famous for the exceptional quality of the
coffee and tea, the latest Coffee Bean is a
multilevel, indoor/outdoor caf overlook-
ing Westlake. With its LA coffee and office
feel, when you walk in you might just
forget that youre in Westlake.
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE
152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communist-driven theme
saturating this quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy
expats. Sip on a blended cup of joe with
beans from the Central Highlands, knock
back one of the many different types of tea
available or sip on freshly squeezed juice
from the Spartan cups in one of the hippest
cafes on 'cafe street'. If you like pre-doi moi
nostalgia, here is the place to go.
ESPRESSAMENTE ILLY
ITALIAN COFFEE
75 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2065
8am to 11pm
International standard, Italian-style
espresso drinks are the name of the game
at this undeniably chic chain coffee shop.
Boasting a wide range of drinks, including
spirit coffees with tequila, and a small se-
lection of pastries and panini sandwiches,
the cafs clientele is a mix of tourists and
Vietnamese who are tired of ca phe nau
da. It is connected to a tour agency and in
the central hub of the Old Quarter.
HAPRO CAF
CAF / RESTAURANT
6th floor, 38-40 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 7984
7.30am to 11pm
Take the dilapidated elevator to the 6th
floor and emerge onto a balcony with
one of the best views of Hoan Kiem. The
big draw to this caf is the vantage point
the drinks are a secondary concern,
though there is about every coffee and
juice concoction known to mankind on the
menu and plenty of yoghurt and smoothie
options too. Graze on French fries, sand-
wiches, salads and typical Vietnamese rice
plates. Perfect for watching the city wake
up or catching a sunset.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE CHAIN
6 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 0444
www.highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
As with any chain that attempts self-
replication, there is a tried and tested
formula. At Highlands it is comfortable
seating, good Wi-Fi, unobtrusive music
and a mid-range, generic atmosphere.
It works, too. The Starbucks of Vietnam,
a French-influenced, international and
pan-Asian food menu sits alongside the
teas, coffee and cakes. Has other locations
at 49 Hai Ba Trung, The Opera House, The
Syrena Centre, Pacific Place and more.
JOMA
COFFEE/BAKERY
22 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3747 33 88
54 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6071
www.joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma has brought a
little slice of home to Hanoi for expatri-
ates with a contemporary western feel to
the counter-style service and atmosphere.
The food is all there too: breakfasts, salads,
soups, ice cream, muffins, cakes, cereals
and bagels. Starting in Laos in 1996, Joma
moved to Hanoi in 2010 and is looking to
open in Ho Chi Minh City in 2011. Has a
play area for kids up in the West Lake caf
and bakery.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 0216
7am 8pm
A must-go-to place on a lazy day, Mr Chis
long-standing patisserie is somewhat
famous for its honest, home-cooked food,
no frills-but-relaxing environment and
sour yoghurt fit for celebrities Catherine
Deneuve ate here daily during her time
shooting Indochine. Hot fresh milk, exclu-
sive coffee, awesome croque madames
and local dishes, too. Replace WiFi with a
book and aircon with ceiling fans; eat in,
take away, the pastries are great and the
price is always right.
LA PLACE
CONTEMPORARY / VIETNAMESE
6 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 5859
7.30am to 10pm
This tall, narrow lounge caf with rooftop
seating is a quintessential Hanoi spot.
The decoration is bright and casual and
the all-day menu has food from both the
east and the west. Draw with crayons
on brown paper covering the tables as
you while away the hours over coffee
or cocktails, and take in the view of St.
Josephs Cathedral. Has some interesting
food options including spinach fried rice
along with old standbys like tuna salad
sandwiches and coconut chicken curry. No
MSG is used here.
LOVE CHOCOLATE CAFE
QUIRKY CAFE
26 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3243 2120
www.lovechocolatecafe.com
10am to 10pm, Closed Sundays
Bathed in pink and decorated to mimic a
French salon, Love Chocolate Cafe carries
decadent chocolate desserts like mocha
lava cake, espresso pepper brownies and
tons of cookies. It doesnt end there, hot
chocolates, shakes and even coffee blends
like minty java are on the menu. The sign
out front reads, All you chocoholics, We
are open!. A rare but terrific find in Hanoi.
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 6334
moca@netnam.vn
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run
down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large amount of
guidebook-driven clientele. But don't let
this put you off. The faded but charmingly
run down French-styled retro interior,
good WiFi and some of the best coffee
in town makes this a great spot to while
away a couple of hours. The food menu
mixes Vietnamese fare with sandwiches,
western and pan-Asian mains.
MARILYN CAFE
ROOFTOP CAFE
4 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem
Considering the amount of flat rooftops in
this city, its a crime that most go under
utilized. However, the top floor of Chim
Yen boutique and Marilyn Cafe is home
to one of the more pleasant spaces in the
Old Quarter. With a great, stones-throw-
view of St Josephs cathedral, food and
beverages, this spot can turn a temperate
afternoon into something a bit more
special.
OCHAO TEAHOUSE
TRADITIONAL TEA ROOM
25 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 01887 785977
ochaoteahouse@gmail.com
8am to 10pm
A stylish, two-storey traditional but
contemporary tea house with great views
of West Lake. Specialises in precious
Vietnamese tea from the northern hills,
handpicked by ethnic minority tribes and
presented to the public by a passionate
French owner. Well worth your time hang-
ing out here on a lazy day.
PANACEA CAFE
MUSIC CAFE
25 Quang Trung, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 0909 061982
panaceacafe@yahoo.com
8am to late
Slightly rough around the edges and with
an artsy vibe, this is nonetheless a place
that welcomes all comers. Theres live
music four nights a week (Mon, Wed, Fri
and Sat), but its not uncommon to find
someone strumming away at the piano
here at any time of the day. Friendly staff,
good coffee, juices and cold beers.
PARIS DELI
CAF / BOULANGERIE
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this airy,
bistro-style caf and patisserie opposite
the Opera House. One of the original
international-style establishments to hit
the capital, despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable espresso-style
coffees cost around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants are moreish.
Also does filled baguettes and a larger
caf-cum-restaurant menu. Has a second
establishment at 13 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark browns
and cream, this cafe and French-style
boulangerie is best visited in the morning
when that Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of
bread, croissants and patisseries hits you
as you walk through the door. Serving all
day long, the downstairs space is split
into the bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the other.
The homely upstairs lounge area has
standard tables as well as sofa seating.
Simple but tasty French and international
fare is served at meal times.
SEGAFREDO
ITALIAN CAFE
36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1476
www.segafredo.com.vn
7am to 11pm
Names of some of the world's greatest
cities cover the front wall of Segafredo, an
Italian cafe and eatery serving up some of
the best espresso-based coffee in town.
Red and white decor, lifestyle black and
white coffee drinking images and an open
plan space make up the mix. Besides the
caffeine-based drinks, also does granita,
teas, shakes and modern Italian fare rang-
ing from panini and focaccia through to
pizza, pasta, salads and desserts.
STOP CAF
FRENCH DELI
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9433
8am to 11pm
Situated on Hanois not-so-serene Pub
Street, Stop sponges up the surrounding
atmosphere, which gives the French
delicatessen a relaxed vibe that avoids
pretension. The spot specializes in
serving a mixture of western, French and
Vietnamese fare, along with coffee, shakes
and juice. The venue is more affordable
then its sister location upstairs, Caf de
Arts, and is prime real estate to nibble
on some quiche and quaff a juice on a
sunny day.
THAI CAF
PAVEMENT / VIETNAMESE
27 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
Walk by this old caf and youll see why
its favoured by the locals. Grab a stool on
the sidewalk to enjoy the lemon-y tea and
sunflower seeds, or a strong drip coffee
and people watching.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP/CAF
18 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem (entrance on street
behind Au Trieu)
8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho
Tel: 3928 7715 , www.thecartfood.com
7:30am 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden on the quietest
of Hanoian streets, with a new outlet on
Nghi Tam, which is more like the big-win-
dowed coffee shops you expect to see in
Europe. The Cart serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices, quiches,
pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable, which makes
this lunchtime favourite ideal for when
you need to eat at the desk.
THE COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
Picomall, 229 Tay Son, Dong Da
Tel: 6276 1004, www.coffeebean.com
8.30am to 9.30pm
Known for the quality of its coffee and
tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf has
landed in Hanoi in the form of an
air-con, western-style drinking space in
Hanois newest shopping mall. The five
first coffee shops in Vietnam started in
Ho Chi Minh City, and this the first one in
the capital. Hanoians are finally able to
taste the beverages already quenching the
thirst in 20 countries across the planet.
New stores to open on West Lake soon.
THE DOLL HOUSE
26 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3935 2539
8am 10am
This new caf, which fills a coffee-shop-
shaped gap in the market for this area,
has the feel of half green house, half
design-conscious doll house, and is a wel-
come alternative for when your favourite
hang out begins to get samey. Focusing
on fresh ingredients to suit the fresh
design, the Doll House also has a garden
terrace, and is open for party bookings
and private events. Enter through the
shop out front.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter
streets just off Hang Bong, The Hanoi So-
cial Club is a cozy midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the heat and bustle
of Hanoi. The atmosphere is relaxed and
you can imagine, for a second, that youre
sitting in a European caf. The food is
fresh and internationally inspired, and the
design is complimented by the work of
Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc. To top it off, the
coffee here is said to be up there with the
best in the country.
RESTAURANTS - FRENCH
MID-RANGE
CAFE DE PARIS + gence, the opulent Satine provides diners
FRENCH BISTRO
10 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 1327, www.cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled floor, cast iron
backed chairs and wall-hung black and
white photography, there is something de-
cidedly charming about this tiny Parisian-
styled bistro and bar. Serving up a simple dishes alongside lighter southern dosas
menu of snacks such as quiche Lorraine, RESTAURANTS - INDIAN and uttappams. The venue is homey albeit
Paris beurre and croque monsieur, there is harsh, but with quintessential masala tea,
also a selection of classic but unpreten- MID-RANGE naan and raita to round out the meal, the
tious French mains. Has a daily specials FOODSHOP 45 focus here is on the food and filling your
board and a decent range of pizzas. INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
belly or overfilling, as is more likely the
case. All cuisine here is halal.
MID TO TOP 59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 2959
foodshop45@yahoo.com NAMASTE HANOI
GREEN TANGERINE 10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating
47 Lo Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3935 2400
48 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 1286 www.namastehanoi.com
www.greentangerinehanoi.com and a history that screams empathy
10am to 11pm daily make this eatery one of the most popular
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the Indian
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark Indians in town. Selling an international restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
version of the mighty curry they even
green cast-iron backed chairs greets you dishes from both northern and southern
as you walk into this French era-built sell pork and beef here the menu keeps
India using Halal meat throughout. A
villa that houses the main section of this to the northern part of the subcontinent meal will cost you between VND150,000
Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an with masala, dopiaza, korma and the
and VND300,000 and everything is there,
enticing mix of classic and contemporary more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage.
French cuisine, blended in with Vietnam- Also has a good range of breads and
from curries and breads to soups and
desserts. Available to dine in or out with
ese ingredients and cooking styles, the tandoor-cooked kebabs. a free delivery
resultant fare has had customers coming
INDIA PALACE & DAKSHIN
back again and again. A traditional Viet- TANDOOR
namese and kids menu is also available, 78 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5995 24 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3824 5359
as is a wine list focusing mainly on French 11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm tandoor@hn.vnn.vn
wines. India Palace is the fourth member of 11am to 10.30pm
owner Ravi Kumars family of restaurants
TOP-END which includes Tandoor. The menu takes
A long-popular, Indian-food enclave spe-
cialising in Northern Indian cuisine. Has
the cuisine of North India and combines
LA BADIANE it with a South Indian-inspired menu, to
an indoor and upstairs, white tablecloth
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4509 aircon area with a more casual dining and
create a pan-Indian menu appealing to bar space out front. Does excellent kebabs
labadiane.hanoi@yahoo.fr
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm. Closed all. Occupying a large four-storey villa served from an authentic tandoor oven
with unobstructed views of West Lake at
Sunday night. as well as the full range of mainly North
the front, the dcor here is traditional yet Indian curries. Also has a branch in Saigon
A white-washed, colonial era villa replete
with period wooden shutters greets you contemporary Indian. The fourth floor with and does excellent set lunches.
as you enter this contemporary French sweeping views over West Lake is given
restaurant. Guests can either dine indoors up to Dakshin, a vegetarian restaurant RESTAURANTS INTERNATIONAL
in aircon comfort or take to the leafy selling mainly South Indian fare.
covered terrace out back with its walls BUDGET
lined with art and photography from 21st KHAZAANA
century Hanoi. The menu here mixes INDIAN/HALAL CAF 129
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3934 5657
modern Gallic cuisine with a touch of MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
www.khaazana.vn 129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3821 5342
Mediterranean and Vietnam thrown in, all
creating an innovative and evocative se- 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm 7.30am to 9.30pm
One of the two oldest Indian restaurants in
lection of fare. Has an extensive wine list Service at this slow food caf is seriously
and an excellent, well-priced three-course Hanoi, the menu at Khazaana encompass- snail paced, but that is part of the charm
lunch menu. es the entire subcontinent, complete with of this modest eatery with only a few
heavier chicken korma and northern curry tables and small stools. Popular as a week-
LA VERTICALE
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 3944 6317
www.verticale-hanoi.com
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to 9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa that was once
owned by a Vietnamese mandarin, this
establishment is now owned and run by
perhaps the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly priced set
lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches
on the dishes, which primarily come from
carefully selected domestic spices, the
up market establishment lures in its high
class customers with quality Vietnamese-
French fusion cuisine.
LE BEAULIEU
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15 Ngo Quyen,
Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30pm to 10.30pm
Classic French Indochine dcor and
subtle lighting give the Sofitel Metropole
Legends signature restaurant an elegance
rarely found in Vietnams capital. The a
la carte menu pits classic French cuisine
against contemporary Vietnamese cooking
with dishes like Nha Trang lobster with
saffron pot au feu, the pan fried veal ten-
derloin on a lemongrass skewer and the
calisson parfait marinated with orange,
pomelo and lemon balm. Has an extensive
wine list.
SATINE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 6282 5555. satine@hoteldelopera.com
6pm to 10.30pm
Designed for strictly dinner only indul-
the option of ordering a la carte or from
one of the venues 12-course menus. Lav-
ish design, royal-styled chairs and tables,
three private dining rooms and the option
of dining in a glass-covered courtyard
are all part of the mix, with the cuisine
prepared by executive chef Ms. Frdrique
Nguyen.
May 2012 Word | 85

FOOD BUFF
WITH KAUSTUBH TRIVEDI
THE SPICE OF LIFE
Served in restaurants around
the world, chicken tikka masala
is a southern Asian curry dish
consisting of chicken chunks
(tikka) in a spicy sauce (masala).
A survey found it to be the most
popular restaurant dish in the UK,
with former Foreign Secretary
Robin Cook proclaiming it to be "a
true British national dish". With so
many variants presented around
the world, the only common factor
in all of them is the inclusion of
chicken. This month, Khazaana
manager Kaustubh Trivedi shares
the secret ingredients that make
his restaurants version of this
ever-popular dish one of the
biggest hits on his menu.
CHICKEN TIKKA INGREDIENTS
1 cup of yogurt
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons of freshly ground
black pepper
1 tablespoon of minced fresh ginger
4 teaspoons of salt, or to taste
3 boneless skinless chicken
breasts, cut into bite-size pieces
4 long skewers
MASALA INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon of butter
1 clove of garlic, minced
86 | Word May 2012
1 green chili, finely chopped
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
3 teaspoons of salt, or to taste
8 ounces of tomato sauce
1 cup of thick cream
1/4 cup of fresh coriander, chopped
METHOD
In a large bowl, combine the thick
yogurt, lemon juice, two of the
teaspoons of cumin, cinnamon,
black pepper, ginger and 4
teaspoons of salt.
Mix everything together and
marinade the chicken with the
ingredients.
Cover and refrigerate for about
an hour.
Grill the chicken on a low flame.
Melt the butter in a large heavy
pan over a medium heat.
Saut the garlic and onion for
one minute.
Season with two teaspoons of
cumin and three teaspoons of salt.
Stir in the tomato sauce and the
cream.
Simmer on a low heat for
about 20 minutes until the sauce
thickens.
Add the grilled chicken pieces
and simmer for ten minutes.
Transfer to a serving platter, and
garnish with fresh coriander.
Khazaana can be found at 1C,
Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
end hangover mainstay for the greasy eggs
with cheese, the caf is best known for
its not-quite Mexican food. But hey, when
theres guacamole, salsa fresca, beans and
cheese, what can go wrong? Be sure to try
the fresh juices, like the super-booster with
beetroot, and the coffee with whipped egg.
TRIEU PHUONG HONG KONG
CANTONESE/DIM SUM
317 Kim Ma, Dong Da. Tel: 3846 1327
9am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm
One of the most underrated Chinese
restaurants in the city, the place itself
is not much to look at, but they serve
above average dim sum. A variety of other
Cantonese style dishes including noodle
soup and rice dishes are on offer here, all
at very affordable prices.
WESTLAKE CUPCAKE
CUPCAKE SERVICE
Tel: 01219 499523
mia@westlakecupcake.net
The cupcake obsession has caught on.
A new baking project by Westlakes infa-
mous Anna and Mia brings custom cup-
cakes cooked to order to your front door.
Offering a variety of cupcakes and butter
cream frostings, check out their speciality
flavours like New York cheesecake, brown
eyed girl and creative monthly specials.
Are you drooling yet? Although a delivery
only outlet, the cupcakes are available for
purchase at Daluva and Oasis.
MID-RANGE
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
19A Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 1155
98 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 5322
www.alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
With a real diner kind of feel, Al Frescos
serves up munchies-busting Aussie inspired
food from a number of locations across
the city including their original restaurant
at 23L Hai Ba Trung. Topping the menu are
the jumbo ribs at VND395,000, with gener-
ous helpings of pizzas, pastas, burgers,
Tex-Mex, soups and salads going for less.
The set business lunch is three courses for
VND155,000. See the website for delivery
numbers and dont forget to ask for delivery
deals. Have an efficient delivery service, but
make sure you ask for knives and forks.
ARRIBA MEXICAN RESTAURANT &
GRILL + VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
MEXICAN / TEX-MEX
48 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem Tel: 7300 0206
www.arribavietnam.com
11am to 12am
Smack in the middle of the Old Quarter and
close to Ta Hien, this is probably Hanois
the best place to get your fix of chilli, lime,
coriander, refried beans, tacos and tomato.
Sit in the upstairs loft for Asian-style
seating, or out on the sidewalk for people
watching. The open-style kitchen ensures
your food is cooked to order and fast,
and doubles as a bar. Their margaritas are
strong and the salsa is spicy.
BRITANNIA
FISH & CHIPS
Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3938 2254
If you want a product closest to quintes-
sential British fish and chips, then your
best option by an arm and many a leg is
Britannia. The cod, plaice and haddock
may have been switched for basa and
sea bass, but everything else is authentic,
from the beer batter and mushy peas
through to the newspaper wrapping,
Scotch eggs and vinegar. Has an airy,
upstairs two-room dining area.
CHEZ XUAN
OPEN AIR EATING
41, Ngo 76, An Duong, Tay Ho. Tel: 0915 085305
Though its a bit far from the centre, the
expansive wooded area, chilled out atmo-
sphere and good food makes it worth a
visit. The menu is well equipped to satisfy
cravings for fish and hearty meat dishes. If
youre in a DIY mood, you can Grill Yourself
a plate of meat and seafood or choose
from the gourmet selection of strip loin,
ostrich or salmon to throw on the tabletop
grills. Regularly holds live music events.
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT
SONG THU
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
34 Chau Long, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3942 4448
www.hoasuaschool.com
Open from 7am to 10pm
This restaurant, which schools and
employs disadvantaged youths, has been
popular for 11 years as a grand villa and
courtyard setting tucked away in the corner
of Ha Hoi. Popular with business types,
tourists and expats alike, who enjoy good
food while supporting a good cause, mains
like cha ca and steaks go for VND99,000
and VND289,000 respectively, and there
are six set menus available which take in
Vietnamese, French and Italian cuisine.
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE
Ngo 40, Nha 7A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 2679, hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Despite a two-storey indoor dining space,
Kitchen is all about its leafy, terracotta-
tiled terrace out front, a great space for
eating the decent breakfasts (check out
the breakfast burrito), the creatively
titled sandwiches and the selection of
international salads. Also does a range of
Mexican dishes (available after 5pm) and an
innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-
style drinks. Has amiable know-your-name
staff and a good delivery service.
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR
59 Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 0337
www.koto.com.au
All profit is invested back into the cause
at Koto, which is a school and workplace
for disadvantaged students opposite the
Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and
European cuisine comes out of a visible
and frenetic kitchen and is served over
four big floors of restaurant space. Its
cushioned, comfortable and has a rooftop
terrace, too. Wrap it yourself nem, bun bo
Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and
chips, chicken Kievs and sandwiches all
under one homely roof.
LA RESTAURANT
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm bread with
rosemary is reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty lentil and
black bean soups, along with a range of
international and Vietnamese options like
New Zealand beef tenderloin or tofu with
chilli and mushrooms. We arent quite
sure why the Miele Guide nominated
it as one of Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and tables could
use candles to improve the lackluster
ambience, but the immaculately tasty
dishes more than make up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
25 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 9052
lasalsa@fpt.vn
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-
themed caf and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas are available,
as well as full courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce. Known for its
good, European-style coffee and fantastic
first-floor terrace area with views over the
cathedral. Western staff speak English and
French.
LE MARRAKECH
MOROCCAN
88 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3710 0389
10am to 11pm. Closed Monday
Family-run Moroccan restaurant in a
charming terrace-fronted house close to
the start of Xuan Dieu. Focus of cuisine is
on authentic couscous, tagines and kebab
dishes made with a mixture of local and
imported ingredients, all cooked up by a
Moroccan chef. Uses Halal meat.
LITTLE HANOI
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
21 23 Hang Gai Street, Hoan Kiem Dist
Tel: 38285 333
littlehanoi@orientalstars.com.vn
7:30am - 11:00pm
A tourist hotspot and one for locals, too,
Little Hanoi near Hoan Kiem Lake has
been going sturdy since 1994 mainly for
its central location, range of sandwiches,
pastas and Vietnamese cuisine. Baguettes
go from VND95,000 and mango salads
VND99,000, not to mention the coffee at
around VND50,000, wines and fresh fruit
juices. With Indochina-inspired art on the
walls and jazz in the background, Little
Hanoi is a little escape from the chaos of
the central lake.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3734 3098
tmbhanoi@gmail.com
11am to 11pm
Located in the grounds of the Fine Arts Mu-
seum, this classy restaurant and wine bar
mixes attractive dcor with western cuisine,
all cooked up by a New Zealand-trained
Vietnamese chef. Famed for its salads, good
cuts of steak, lamb shank and its various
pasta fare, the menu here also incorporates
a number of well-known Vietnamese dishes.
PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL
18 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0912 223966
provechohanoi@gmail.com
The successor of My Burger My, this
American-run, self-styled burger bar and
restaurant fits a lot into a tiny, multi-storey
space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from around VND50,000
with a range of additional toppings includ-
ing jalapeno peppers, smoked bacon,
mushrooms, cheddar cheese and avocado,
the creative menu also has a good range
of Tex-Mex fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery service.
SPOON
ASIAN FUSION
15-17 Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3823 5636
6.30am to 10pm
An extension of Soul furniture and lifestyle
store, the restaurant and lounge bar at
Spoon serves up a fusion menu in a setting
that screams homeliness and style. Asian
dishes, seafood and steaks are among the
go-to menu choices. Attentive and competent
staff top it all off in this chic restolounge.
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
80 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 0580
tamarind_cafe@yahoo.com
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant in Hanoi to cater
to vegetarians that doesnt focus on faux
meat, Tamarind features a wide range of
juices and shakes in a crunchy granola back-
packer atmosphere. Breakfast is served all
day and with Asian favourites, like vegetar-
ian pho, Ma-Po tofu and Thai glass noodle
salad, along with some falafel and western
influences, vegetarians and carnivores alike
will find something to try on this menu.
THE BISTRO + environment.
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3726 4782
www.thebistro.com.vn
A modern eatery offering western cuisine
with shades of French influence in a
comfortable setting. Think gardens in a
courtyard, drink and food deals and a
warm indoor atmosphere you know, just
how the French do it.
THE HOUSE
FUSION FARE / WINE
10 Truong Han Sieu. Tel: 6270 2611
hoangcuongfb@gmail.com
The House, once Annies Corner, is one
of the latest restaurants to occupy an
old French building in the quiet streets
nestled between Ba Trieu and Quang
Trung. It serves Vietnamese food but with
international twists. The affordable and
eclectic menu ranges from local tenderloin
steak to lemongrass tuna salads with a
decent wine list and an ideal bring-your-
own VND100,000 corkage fee per bottle
of wine.
MID TO TOP
GREEN MANGO + ers bring cuts of meat to the table for
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 9916
www.greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
Sophisticated restaurant set inside an Old
Quarter boutique hotel. Formerly a school,
and now also on Cat Ba Island, Green
Mango serves Vietnamese and western
food, ranging from sandwiches and pasta
to lamb chops and VND700,000 Angus
rib-eyes. Buy-one-get-one-free deals on
cocktails and beers every day from 4pm to
6pm and Lavazza coffee at all hours. With
comfy seats and a soft setting, the func-
tion room at the back often hosts charity
events and semi-formal get-togethers.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung (4th Floor), Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3934 8325
www.alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
With attentive service, tasty food and large
portions, this place has something for ev-
eryone and has proved itself to be popular
with both the western and Asian expat
communities who come back again and
again. The comprehensive menu is a fusion
of western and Asian cooking. Also has a
large and spacious bar and lounge area
that stays open late for all the live sport.
LA CANTINE
INTERNATIONAL / CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3936 9897
www.lacantine.vn
6am to 11.30pm
Converted from a wing of an old church,
this upscale restaurant with extensive
Vietnamese and international offerings
is just a stones throw from the Opera
House. Sophisticated but cozy, the salon is
open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and tea.
Expect about VND1 million for a set top-
end six-course meal and VND600,000 for
the more downscale five-course offering.
LE PETITE BRUXELLES
BELGIAN / EUROPEAN
1 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1769
10 Alley 27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 5853
www.le-petit-bruxelles.com
10am to 10pm
An airy and spacious long-running
Belgian-themed eatery with a location by
the cathedral and a second out in West
Lake. Although this is not the place to
wash down your Chimay, Leffe or Duval
with moules frites on a daily basis the
mussels are only available seasonally
a number of other traditional Belgian
dishes fill the menu including carbonade,
jambonneau and boulettes sauce tomate
as well as the more Swiss-sounding beef
and cheese fondue. Hearty fare in a nice
LUALA CAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAF / RESTAURANT
61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2886
www.luala.vn
8 am to 10 pm
If you can't afford the labels at Luala
you can still enjoy the cuisine in this
small cafe run in conjunction with the
high-end fashion concept store, Luala
and The Press Club. Offering a large menu
specialising in creative but chic cafe fare
as well as the prerequisite quality coffee,
the outdoor terrace seating offers great
views of the downtown area.
TOP END
AU LAC DO BRAZIL + spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3845 5224
www.aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian churrascaria
steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the skewer, Au Lac
do Brazil is not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio fashion, wait-
patrons to pick and choose, all for a set
price. They also offer wine pairings, a
salad bar and an a la carte menu, with
a creative selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down. The prices
arent for anyone on a budget, but the
amount and quality of meat is more than
worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 6282 5555
cafelautrec@hoteldelopera.com
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte and buffet
dining as well as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the French
artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic
ambience for diners to enjoy a mixture
of international and Mediterranean-style
fare. Has an extensive wine list to match
the cuisine, which is all served up in
a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
PAN-CHINESE
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN
16/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 3719
www.donviet.vn
Monday to Friday, 10am to late. Weekends
8am to late
A bakery, bistro, restaurant, wine retailer,
oyster bar and top floor lounge bar all in
one, this lake-facing venue is the work
of charismatic Canadian restaurateur
and wine connoisseur Donald Berger.
Focusing on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes anything
from wood-grilled rare tuna steak with
fragrant Chinese black bean beurre noir
to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negra ham egg
pasta served with crushed roasted garlic
and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an extensive
wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
99 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3718 6991
www.elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This welcomed eatery combines traditional
Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contemporary and
thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with two venues in Saigon
one near the Opera House and the
other in Saigon South the essence of
this popular chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is the mainstay,
but everything from chicken, pork and
seafood is also up for grabs. Add to
this a backdrop of low Latin music, low,
subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to head to El
Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY INTERNA-
TIONAL
Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3946 0121
www.halia.com.sg
11am to 11pm. Closed Sundays
A secluded courtyard in the heart of
Pacific Place plays host to one of the
capitals best restaurants. A two-floored
venue split into a downstairs tapas and
bar area,with a refined dining space
located on the level above, the menu
includes Singaporean specialities such as
the shrimp satay salad and the chilli crab
mixed in with light Asian flavours is also
on offer, with dishes such as pan-braised
Alaskan cod with sea winkle crust and
the braised pork belly in shoyu and sweet
mirin making an appearance. Has an
extensive wine list.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3938 8388
www.alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from the team
behind Jaspas and Pepperonis is an
all-day eating and drinking lounge fit for
all occasions. It has three floors for dif-
ferent vibes lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads
can be found on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH / INTERNATIONAL
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0904 134490
Clean and fresh with a fine-dining
vibe, the Millennium restaurant is the
minimal and chic result of a Caf Des Arts
makeover. The streets new go-to for a
high standard of eating and drinking goes
over two floors and has a welcome and
inviting three-level outdoor terrace high
up amid the concrete and cables of the
Old Quarter.
MING PALACE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3823 8888
Lunch 11am to 2pm, dinner 5pm to 10pm
A fine dining destination at the Sofitel
Plaza serving Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern setting with
private dining rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available along with
Chinese entrees, Mings is an ideal eatery
for those hungry for higher end Chinese
fare.
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3933 4801
www.nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
Named after the completion date of the
Opera House under which it is located,
walk inside and a labyrinthine-like, bare-
brick wall hallway leads you through to
the main dining area. With dark browns,
deep yellow tablecloths and a refined
ambience aided by background classical
music, the menu takes in western, pan-
Asian and seafood fare and even has its
own section dedicated entirely to foie
gras. Has a 100-strong old and new world
wine list that includes Bordeaux vintages
and also boasts a cheaper, outdoor garden
space next to Highlands Coffee.
PRESS CLUB
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3934 0888
www.hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to 10.30pm.
Closed Sunday lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling and bold but
subtle colours pervade this traditional
but contemporary, fine-dining 70-seater
venue close to the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a decade,
Press Club boasts a bar area, two private
dining rooms, including a wine room,
a library and a vast selection of cigars,
all in an elegant atmosphere. Does
four excellent wine pairing menus, put
together through the aid of the Press
May 2012 Word | 87
Clubs extensive new and old world wine
list. Also hosts a popular first-Friday-of-
the-month party.
RESTAURANTS - ITALIAN
MID-RANGE
CIELO
CASUAL ITALIAN DINING
172 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 0680
9am to 10.30pm
An Italian eatery in West Lake with a large
selection of authentic, pan-Italian cuisine,
Cielo is a place which goes back to basic,
using homemade Bufala mozzarella on
their pizzas. The word Cielo means sky,
which is reflected in the fresh airy dining
room. And while their takeaway service is
prompt, eating in ensures a much better
experience. Prices are very reasonable.
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 8585 1443
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian
restaurant next to the famed lawn chair
and coconut caf on West Lake has all
the right ingredients to become a classic.
Run by the long time former manager of
Luna DAutunno, it features scrumptious
wood-fired oven pizzas from VND120,000
and other Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also
available.
LUNO DAUTUNNO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
78 Tho Nhuom, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3823 73338
lunadautunno@gmail.com
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian restaurant has
been going for 10 years. It uses traditional
wood ovens to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range from VND60,000
to build-your-own-skies-the-limit. Set
inside a large, thoughtful space with
over 35 covers and an outside courtyard,
seasoned chefs also make fresh pastas,
soups and cheeses the latter often
bought by other restaurants. Monthly
photo exhibitions and opera nights make
it well worth a visit, as does the large
wine list and choice of desserts.
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
23 Nha To, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 6288
leo@mediterraneo-hanoi.com
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near
the cathedral serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need homemade
ICONS 101
AIRCONDITIONING
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NON-SMOKING AREA
DELIVERY
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HAPPY HOUR
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88 | Word May 2012
mozzarella and fresh pasta, spinach and
ricotta ravioli, cold cut boards, soups,
salads and fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood fire oven and
a balcony spot looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto a winner.
PANE E VINO + BUDGET
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 38269 080
Just a stroll away from the Hanoi Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves up authentic
Italian food and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the
highly rated, oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad dishes look
forward to fine food done well at this eat-
ery that has the feel of Europe. Huge wine
lists, friendly staff and a loveable owner.
ZPIZZA
Floor 1, Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 5959
www.zpizza.vn
10.30am to 10.30pm
Californian pizza chain in the now open
in West Lake. currently the only place
to eat from this American pizza brand in
Hanoi. The new pizzeria prides itself on its
100 percent certified organic wheat dough
and different dishes found nowhere else,
like the strawberry and goats cheese
salad. Also serves up curry chicken sand-
wiches and meatball penne pasta.
TOP-END
ANGELINA + 10am to 2pm, 5pm to 10pm
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 15 Ngo Quyen,
Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and 6.30am to late
(restaurant) 11am to 2am (bar)
There are only two truly top-end,
contemporary Italians in Vietnam and
Angelina claims pride of place in this elite
group. This doesn't mean that prices here
are off limits take a similar eatery in
Europe and here you are paying a third,
which all makes a meal here a special
affair. The carpaccios are to die for, the
pastas are all home made, the pizzas are
wood-fired and the steaks are chargrilled.
Does a great three-course set lunch for
VND520,000++.
Nick Ross
RESTAURANTS - JAPANESE & KOREAN
BONG-CHU JJIM-DAK
KOREAN CHICKEN
B40 Nguyen Thi Dinh, Thanh Xuan
Tel: 6680 1423
Visit www.bongchu.co.kr
11am 10pm
In typical Vietnamese fashion, Bong-Chu
Jjim Dak restaurant only serves one dish
it knows best: chicken. A light kimchi
soup is served alongside the steamed bird
mixed with cellophane noodles packed in
a mildly peppery but sweet combination.
Its simple ordering options include half
chicken, whole chicken, chicken and a
half, or all of the above. Select the answer
that best fits your appetite and escape
from the ubiquitous boiled chicken on
streets.
GIM BAB
KOREAN
50A Ngoc Khanh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3201 2989
One of the longest running Koreans in
town, this down-to-earth eatery just off
Kim Ma specialises in the Korean nations
version of sushi rolls. These can be or-
dered either plain or deep-fried. Other Ko-
rean fare includes bibimbab and a range
of barbecue dishes. The cuisine is brought
to your low tables with floor seating and
in typical Korean fashion, all meals are
served with free side dishes (banchan) of
kim chi, pickles and eggplant.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY
166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to 10.30pm,
closed Sunday
Sushi, soba, sake. Buy a big bottle of sake
and the staff will put your name on it
and keep it until next time. Dine at the
downstairs bar or in one of the private
rooms with sliding doors for an authentic
Japanese experience. Although Ky Y spe-
cialises in rice-style working mans fare,
its hard to go wrong with anything on the
menu, but the Japanese omelets, tempura
and saucy eggplant dishes are perennial
crowd pleasers.
IZAKAYA YANCHA
JAPANESE BBQ
121 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3974 8437
11am to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm
Just a stones throw from Ky Y, this Osaka-
based chain does the same cuisine, but
entirely differently. The small plates on
the large menu are best shared among a
group and with bottles of beer or sake.
The tofu in amber sauce will leave you
licking the plate and the chicken with
udon and vegetables is off-the-charts
delicious. The tidbit barbeque sticks of
okra or bacon are also great, but more as
a snack than anything else.
SAIGON SAKURA
TRADITIONAL JAPANESE
34 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 7565
This Japanese eatery might be easy to
walk past without noticing, but venture
inside and you will find a small but neat
interior. The food ranges from traditional
Japanese to dishes that lean towards
fusion. Very reasonable prices, compared
with other Japanese establishments.
RESTAURANTS - SOUTHEAST ASIAN
BUDGET
NISA
MALAYSIAN / HALAL
32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3926 1859
www.nisa-restaurant.com
10am to 2.30pm, 5pm to 10pm
A two-storey fresh looking Malaysian
restaurant with affable staff and authentic
cuisine. Difficulty in obtaining ingredi-
ents means that these days the menu is
limited, but a nasi campur buffet-style
counter in the downstairs space and pho-
tos on the wall of other classic Malaysian
fare allows customers to choose what to
eat. Think nasi lemak, mee goreng, roti
canai, beef rendang and more. It tastes
good, too.
MID-RANGE
BAAN THAI
NORTHEASTERN THAI / LOUNGE BAR
3B Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3828 8588
baanthai95@hotmail.com
10am to 10pm
This venue serves arguably the best Thai
food in the city. With Thai owners and
staff from the countrys Isaan region in
the kitchen, the place specializes in spicy
staples that come from the northeastern
provinces in the country. After a meal in
the more traditional ground floor space,
relax in the comfortable furnishings of the
venues chic first-floor lounge.
THAI ELEPHANT
INTERNATIONAL THAI
73 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba Trung Tel: 8586 7090
11am to 11pm
For those with sensitive taste buds, this
small restaurant serves up authentic Thai
food that is lighter on the spice. Owned
by a Bangkok native, the space itself is a
small two-level restaurant with traditional
Thai dcor. At a convenient location near
Hoan Kiem and Vincom Towers, Thai El-
ephant covers all the delicious bases with
efficient, fast service and delivery.
RESTAURANTS - VIETNAMESE
{musicbuff}
Debbie Clare highlights the bands, venues, acts and performers making a noise
in the capital this month
BANH CUON PHU LY
BANH CUON
39 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem
6am to 3pm
Put the warm fish sauce in the small bowl BLOOD, SWEAT AND TEARS
with squeezed lime, chilli and fresh herbs Coriolan (or Ouvertre Coriolan
and then dip. This is the Ha Nam version
of banh cuon (rolled wet rice paper) with an die Deutschen) was written
the gio lua (pork cake) substituted for
barbecued pork and bacon. The street by the late, great Ludwig van
side, flaking paint wall location may be off Beethoven back in 1807. Like all
putting for some, but the fare tastes great.
great compositions, it journeys
BANH XEO SAI GON
through the realms of war, death,
BANH XEO / BUN BO
32 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem family feuds, and of course suicide.
Tel: 01296 290015 Whats not to like? For years it
12pm to 11pm
A recently opened slither of an eatery was claimed by some to have
selling wait for it a Hanoi version
of a Saigon version of a Hue dish. It's a
been written for Shakespeares
bit of a mouthful but worth it for all Coriolanus, but after some
its augmentations the banh xeo (beef,
beansprout and egg pancakes) served up contestation it was eventually
for self rolling with rice paper and fresh agreed that it was in fact
herbs are pretty tasty. Also does a sweet
and spicy to-die-for bun bo Nam Bo. composed for Heinrich Joseph von
Collin's 1804 tragedy Coriolan. The
BUN BO HUE SIMPLE PLAN
BUN BO HUE structure of the piece does follow
36c Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung
7am to 4pm
Collins play in a general way; the Development (USAID), the IN HARMONY Black Voices celebrate their
This is the second branch of the nine- ending shouts suicide! as opposed Australian Governments Agency Its no mean feat when you can African, Caribbean and British
month-old restaurant on Food Street. Like
the Tong Duy Tan favourite, which is more to murder!, which concludes for International Development list Nelson Mandela, the Pope heritage through traditional folk,
restaurant than street-side affair, the new Shakespeares play. (AusAID), and the Association of and the British Royal Family jazz, gospel, pop and reggae.
location serves up the same staples from
further south including bun bo Hue, bun Also being performed the same Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). amongst your fans. But acapella Transcending gender, race,
thit nuong and nem lui. Authentic, tasty evening is Wolfgang Amadeus Hailing from Montreal, Simple group Black Voices can, and religious persuasion and age,
and cheap
Mozarts Piano Concerto No. 21 Plans infectiously catchy brand its not hard to see or hear Black Voices blend spine-tingling
BUN BO NAM BO in C major, K.467, and Antonin of adolescent pop-punk has harmonies with elegant, soulful
BUN BO why. Over a staggering 24-year
Dvoraks most popular work
67 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem seen them reach enviable chart career, the group has shared vocals. Cancel everything, its
Tel: 3923 0701
7am to 11pm
Symphony No. 9 in E minor Op. 95, positions across Asia, South the stage with many musical going to be glorious.
Dressed up like an indoor version of a widely known as the New World America, Scandinavia and Europe, greats including the late Ray Black Voices will perform at
streetside eatery, this megalith of a skinny
bun bo restaurant is famed not only for Symphony. and shift a remarkable seven Charles and Nina Simone. Hanoi Opera House on May 21, at
its northern interpretation of a southern The concert takes place at 8pm million records worldwide. In their Having enjoyed extensive 8pm. Tickets are from VND50,000,
dish that you can't buy in the south, but
also for its ga tan (stewed marinated on May 28 and 29 at Hanoi Opera debut live performance in Vietnam, international touring, from and can be purchased from the
chicken). The bun bo itself, a concoction House, 1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem. the band sees the association with Australia to China, Taiwan to venue box office at 1 Trang Tien,
of sauteed beef, peanuts, beansprouts,
white noodles and sweet and sour sauce, Tickets are priced from VND200,000. human trafficking as a vital part of South Africa, Malawi to Lesotho, Hoan Kiem, or ordered from www.
is one of the better versions available in
Swing by the venues box office, their outlook. Human trafficking is Namibia to Cameroon and just ticketvn.com, ticketvn@gmail.com
the city. And the beef is excellent.
or order from www.ticketvn.com, a horrible crime with devastating about everywhere in-between, or 0913 489858
BUN CHA DAC KIM ticketvn@gmail.com or 0913 489858 consequences for so many young
BUN CHA
1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem people and their families, says the
Tel: 3828 5022
10am to 7pm STOPPING THE TRAFFIC bands French-Canadian drummer
With the help of over 40 years of customer
loyalty and repeated mentions in overseas
MTV is staging a free concert Chuck Comeau. We are proud to
press, Dac Kim has become the power- at Hanois My Dinh Stadium stand together with MTV EXIT and
house of eateries serving up bun cha this month, in a nation-wide their partners in the fight against
(white rice noodles with barbecued pork
and herbs). The formula is simple. The campaign aimed at combating exploitation. We cant wait to play
mini pork patties are perfectly rounded,
the bacon is perfectly grilled and then the human trafficking. A series of live in Vietnam for the first time and
portions are humongous. If you're feeling events, TV programmes and youth are looking forward to informing
ravenous, the servings here will fill that
merry gap, but if you want quality over engagement activities will build up our fans on how they can get
quantity, look elsewhere. Has a second to the flagship event on May 26, involved and help out.
eatery at 67 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem.
which sees rock band Simple Plan MTV EXIT takes place at My Dinh
CHICKEN STREET take to the stage in this large- Stadium on May 26. To find out
BBQ STAPLES
Ly Van Phuc, Ba Dinh scale outdoor concert. The event more about the event and to apply
Perhaps the most well known street food
Mecca in all of Hanoi, the lane is flanked
is being produced in partnership for free tickets check out www.
with BBQ chicken joints from north to with the Ministry of Culture, Sports mtvexit.org or follow MTV EXIT on
south. At the Nguyen Thai Hoc entrance,
the food stalls boast proper chairs, while and Tourism (MOCST), the United Twitter @mtvexit and www.facebook.
Black Voices
the venues at the opposite end offer States Agency for International com/mtvexit
stools and host much larger crowds. No
trip to Hanoi or tenure in the capital is
May 2012 Word | 89
complete without a trip to Chicken Street.
Honey grilled banh my and potatoes pro-
vide vegetarians with savory alternatives.
COM CHAY NANG TAM
VEGAN
79A Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3942 4140
9am to 9pm
The set meals for one person or a group
of six people make this a popular lunch-
time eatery. Signs clearly demarcate the
way through the alley on Tran Hung Dao
to this casual restaurant with indoor and
outdoor seating. Everything on the menu
is vegetarian, from standard tofu with
tomato sauce to more obscure fake meat
dishes. The walls are moldy but the food
is fresh.
COM GA HOI AN
HOI AN CUISINE
1 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3923 3856
7am to 11pm
A four-storey restaurant and caf special-
ising in food from the centre of Vietnam
or, as the name suggests, the ancient
town of Hoi An. It serves everything from
the famous cao lau noodles and my
quang tom, to bun bo nuong and com
ga Hoi An. Also sells Thai and Chinese
cuisine, cakes and ice cream. A spiral
staircase, a second floor terrace and pic-
tures of the ancient town top it all off.
DAC SAN HUE
HUE CUISINE
150 Nguyen Khuyen, Dong Da
Tel: 6674 7917
6.30am to 10pm
A no frills, ten-table restaurant easy to
miss at the end of Nguyen Khuyen, just
opposite the Temple of Literature. Spe-
cialises in dishes from Hue, like banh beo
and banh khoai, all at local prices. The
staff is friendly and helpful and the bun
bo Hue is spot on.
DUONG SOM CHAO CA
FISH PORRIDGE / CHAO CA
213 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3829 5281
Serves perhaps some of the best chao
ca in the city. This rice porridge with fish
is garnished with a healthy amount of
fresh herbs and, if you choose, strips of
banh quay the Chinese style fried bread.
The fish is boneless, which helps set this
place apart from others selling the same
dish. One bowl is VND30,000.
MAI ANH
PHO GA
32 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 8492
5am to 4pm
Ignore the doubters, this infamous eatery
serves up some seriously wholesome pho
ga (chicken noodle soup) in a hygienic,
shared table indoor environment. The
secret? The broth, a perfectly rounded
chicken stock consomme. Portions are big,
too, and diners can order chicken on the
bone or off and can even get an extra egg
added to the soup for good measure.
PHO CUON STRIP
PHO CUON / PAN-VIETNAMESE
71-77 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh
9am to midnight
For a dish purported to be invented by
French chef Didier Corlou, it is phenom-
enal how this wet rice paper filled with
beef and herbs affair has so quickly
been absorbed into the street food fold.
Dipped into sweet fish sauce with a touch
of chilli, it tastes good, too. The biggest
proponents of this dish are on Truc Bach
a row of five street-side eateries that
also sell standard, quan nhau meat and
seafood fare. There is also another strip of
joints just round the corner on Ngu Xa.
QUAN 32
PHO GA / PHO BO / PHO XAO
32 Bat Dan, Hoan Kiem
5.30am to 11pm
A hearty, slightly salty broth accompanies
the pho ga at this well-known, 40-year-old
street corner eatery also lauded for its
tasty pho xao and pho bo. It's a simple,
typically Hanoian streetside affair here
with red plastic tables on the street and
foot-high stools. The soup comes with an
accompanying basket of slightly stale but
buttery banh quay.
QUAN 49
PHO GA / BUN BO NAM BO
49 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
6am to 4pm
A stilt-hutted street food eatery and cafe
in the shadow of Elite Fitness doing a
tasty version of the sweet and sour bun
bo Nam Bo (southern-style beef noodles).
Ladle in the chilli and mix up with the
beansprouts, fresh herbs, peanuts and
sauteed beef, and you have a spiced-up,
filling meal. Also does decent pho ga
(chicken noodle soup) and pho xao (fried
noodles). Has a semi-mezannine cafe-
style space out back.
TRUC LAM TROI
VEGAN
39 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 6278 1848
7am to 9pm
Vegetarians delight in being able to
order anything off this more-creative-
than-normal traditional Vietnamese
Buddhist restaurant situated on a quiet
street. Corn juice is the drink of choice
here, as everyone around sips the tepid
yellow stuff, and the array of fried tofu
vegetable dishes makes you reconsider
vegan cuisine as health food. Order an
office lunch plate or dine in during the
weekend surrounded by families and
walls adorned with traditional Buddhist
imagery.
WHITE CLOUD
VEGAN
Nha 2, Ngo 12 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 6258 1622
11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm
WEST LAKE OUT & ABOUT
Simplicity is the key at this small but
airy, zen-like bamboo-table eatery located
behind the Syrena Centre. A rarity in
Vietnam the cuisine here doesnt only
focus on faux meat imitation the menu
mixes canh (broth) with a range of light
dishes, Vietnamese-style salads and a
selection of tofu and gluten-inspired
mains. Worth a try for both vegetarians
and non-vegetarians alike.
MID-RANGE
CHA CA LA VONG
CHA CA
14 Cha Ca, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3825 3929
11am to 2pm, 5pm to 9pm
A funky wooden-floored two storey,
one-dish-only eatery on a street devoted
to one of Hanoi's best known dishes, cha
ca. Claiming to be the oldest restaurant
in Vietnam (established 1873) the deal is
straightforward. The butter-coated, pre-
marinated fish is sauteed with dill and
spring onions on the table and served up
with sides of peanuts, bun noodles and
fresh herbs. It's not street food prices
cheap by any means, but it's darned
tasty. Popular with tourists and locals.
CHIM SAO
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
65 Ngo Hue, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3976 0633
Situated in a turn-of-the-century French
townhouse in a tucked away alley, the
whistling bird continues to offer some
of the best traditional Vietnamese food
in the capital. Sit on the floor upstairs
or enjoy seating downstairs, regardless
this eatery serves up simple Vietnam-
ese staples that are well executed and
presented in a setting that makes one feel
like a regal Hanoian.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 4200
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3711 6372
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3796 2647
25 Bat Su, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 0639
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6377
10am to midnight
Always busy, often hectic, this multi-
floored restaurant is for diners who dont
mind loud noises and sitting on the floor.
Its best for groups so you can order an
array of dishes ranging from the more
exotic frog legs, buffalo and ostrich, to
the trusted standbys; catfish spring rolls,
papaya salad and fried tofu. But its the
exclusive Highway 4 flavoured rice wines
that can be taken as shots or mixed into
cocktails that keep this place crowded.
KITI RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / WESTERN
38 Hang Hom
Tel: 3928 7241
An unassuming establishment that rarely
fills up, which means that customers
often benefit from better service and
the servers utmost attention. What the
restaurant lacks in atmosphere, it makes
up for with a large menu that is chalked
full of reasonably priced Vietnamese fare
and some western staples.
NGOC HIEU
STEAK / CHINESE NOODLES
52 Le Ngoc Han, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3978 2251
7am to 10.30pm
Located on the corner of Hoa Ma, this
steak served sizzling-on-the-griddle
eatery packs no punches when it comes
to getting your beef. Get the standard
banh my affair and the imported US steak
is doled up with meatballs, fried egg,
chips and lots of fat. It's a cholesterol
mess of a meal but really tasty. Also does
bun bo Hue, Phuc Kien noodles and the
Khmer Chinese hu tieu Nam Vang. Has
restaurants at 349 Doi Can and 71 Tran
Duy Hung.
NHA HANG NGON
CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD
26 A-B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3933 6133
ngonhanoi@vnn.vn
7am to 10pm
MID TO TOP
AU LAC HOUSE
INDOCHINE / VIETNAMESE
13 Tran Hung Dao, Tel: 3933 3533
Set in converted colonial villas and fre-
quented primarily by travelers that unload
in front of the establishment on massive
tour buses, this venue is imbued with
the nostalgia of Indochine, replete with
chess boards, stylish fans and waitresses
outfitted in ao dais. Boasts a large menu
filled with Vietnamese favourites and
much more.
CLUB OPERA NOVEL
PAN-VIETNAMESE
17 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3972 8001
clubopera@orientalstars.com.vn
10am to 2pm, 6pm to 10.30pm
Indochine elegance mixes with top-end
culinary flair to create one of the best
Vietnamese restaurants in town. Fine
dining it isn't this country's cuisine
doesn't really lend itself to that type of
cooking. But quality ingredients and a
twist of creativity makes the fare here
well worth the higher price tag think
creative spring rolls and lobster cooked
up with a passion-fruit sauce. This is just
the start. Also has a great downstairs
lounge bar.
COM VIET
IMPERIAL / CONTEMPORARY
63 Pham Hong Thai, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5920
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
After shutting the doors at its former
location, Com Viet is nestled in the tran-
quil neighbourhood near Truc Bach Lake.
The imperial staple, with its pristine
dcor and antiques, traditional bites and
regal atmosphere, specialises in serving
up traditional treats with contemporary
fusion think cheese wrapped in beef
with a side of pickled cucumbers and a
glass of red. Go on the right night and
catch live traditional music in the court-
yard and feel like a king.
SOFTWATER
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
definitely for those who have guests in
town or business clients to schmooze.
Quite an experience.
Nick Ross
RESTOBARS
DALUVA + SPANISH
CLASSY FUSION
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 5831
www.daluva.com
A popular hang-out for expats and trendy
Vietnamese in the Xuan Dieu area on West
Lake. This bar and restaurant offers casual
dining with a classy twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
Additional services include catering, BBQ
rentals, playroom, kids menu, takeaway
and local delivery.
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0976 751331
www.etehanoi.com
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who roam
further west of the city centre, this
multi-storey restobar has been going
strong for more than two years. It has
balconies, mezzanine seating and a long
bar guarding exactly 50 different cocktails.
For many the Ete burger is right on the
mark as are the sandwiches, tartines and
salads. Its always crowded especially
during the weekends. Amiable staff,
pleasant vibes.
J.A.F.A. +
INTERNATIONAL
The Clubhouse, Ciputra, Tel: 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable
bars in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place
for drinking cocktails by the pool. The
beverages are not the cheapest, but this
is made up for by service and ambiance.
They also have a full menu featuring
familiar western dishes such as pizza and
cheeseburgers and cater for large parties
or dinner functions. Periodic buffets and
drink specials are also offered.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
The venue also gets involved in the local
community through regular events. Has
a second Le Pub at Third Floor, 9 Xuan
Dieu, Tay Ho.
OLA DE TAPAS +
26 Lan Ong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 8585 2563
9am to 11pm
Nestled just off the main Old Quarter
drag, this bar and restaurant daubed
in the colours of the Spanish flag is
the first genuine Iberian tapas bar in
town. Sells a range of fare from paella
through to tapas, a selection of tortilla
and Spanish mains, and also serves
lethal but tasty sangria. Spanish
tempanillos and reds make up the
enigmatic mix.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food street is open
around the clock, offering Aussie-inspired
comfort food along with more eclectic
Irish nachos, cottage pies and pan-Asian
fare. Upstairs is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the no-smoking
downstairs space is filled with people
working and socialising. Serves as com-
munity centre, catering both to ravenous
backpackers whove just arrived off the
night train from Sapa and locals looking
to meet up.
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3946 1901
therooftop@vnn.vn
8am to midnight
If location counts for anything, then here
it is spectacular. With a 270-degree view
over the whole of the city, the up-on-high
theme of the Rooftop is used to its full.
The bar is pretty cool, too, with bare brick,
sofa-style seating, glass fronted wine
displays and a private room out back
for more intimate drinking. Also does
day-time office lunches, coffee and decent
bar food.

Tay Ho
42 Duong 9, F361, An Duong, Yen Phu, Tay Ho, 23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Qu a n g B a Large and always busy restaurant set in Tel: 2260 8968 Tel: 3938 8388
two colonial buildings. The courtyard is SANDBOX
AU CO

L a ke RESTAURANTS & BARS OTHER BUSINESSES 10am-10pm This new addition to the city from the
filled with tables and fairy light covered Imperial-era architecture, a rock garden Alfrescos Group is definitely the meatiest INTERNATIONAL / WINE AND JAZZ
We s t trees, which are circled by 18 cooking with trees almost 300 years old, a yet. In the shape of a four floor, chic 12 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3927 5708
01 The Cart 01 Ls Place
L a ke stoves. Here the chefs serve Vietnamese
Ng

beautiful lawn area and contemporary restobar which has a bar lounge on the 5.30pm to midnight
o

classics from all over the country a la Asian-influenced international fare make ground, a restaurant vibe on the second Tucked into a quiet street close to Truc
16 52
17 02 St. Honore; Vine 02 Oasis; Red Apron carte style. Good for street side classics up the mix at this quite unique top-end and third, and a boardroom on the Bach, this romantic, Parisian-styled lounge
N done well in the comfort of an airy restau- restaurant. The cuisine and drinks dont fourth Jacksons Steakhouse serves of exhibits art from up-and-coming Hanoi
Ba 15
16
ha

n 03 Segafredo; Tracys; Kitchen 03 Vine Cellar Door rant. Of the 14 dining spaces, one room come cheap, but then establishments well presented plates of imported Oz and artists and is best experienced on the
Be 17
t

13 c Van 14 15 18 holds 30 guests. Open for breakfast lunch such as Softwater are a rarity. Has both New Zealand steaks as well as seafood. nights with live music. The menu offerings
go
N and dinner. are rich and robust, from chicken curry
To 04 Mandarin; India Palace 04 Yukis an international and a Vietnamese menu Of course, the large restaurant wouldnt
and is located by the river in An Duong be complete without a large wine list to to spaghetti and roast duck, all created
8

14 OLD HANOI
o4

Xuan

Sedona 11 at the end of Road 9, close to the Sofitel match. to pair well with wine. Come for dinner
05 Al Frescos; Tay Tap 05 Kitchen Art
Ng

GOURMET VIETNAMESE
Ngo Plaza. and stay for the live jazz and well-curated
Die 11 4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem LA PETIT TONKINOISE wine selection.
12 06 House of Son Tinh 06 Santal Spa; Bamboo Village Tel: 1355 9096 TRUNG DUONG ART DECO / INTERNATIONAL
u

13 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm VIETNAMESE SEAFOOD 58A Tran Quoc Toan, Hai Ba Trung SOUTHGATE
Ba
n Ho i AU C 07 Dons Tay Ho 07 City Zoo; Better Day Gordon Ramsay once filmed a show at 55 Cua Dong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 6270 0787 8am to 10pm CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
Ma 09 O this restaurant in a renovated French villa 10am to 10pm Located on the corner of Quang Trung, 28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3398 1979
at
Nh Tay i
Tha 11 and now the ribs carry his namesake. There are two of these restaurants in this large new cafe, restaurant and bar is www.southgatehanoi.com
Syrena Centre 08 Da Paolo; Coconut Cafes 08 Collective Concepts
gac ng But its the twist on old world favourites,
N

12 Vietnam and the other is in Phu Quoc, the housed in a restored colonial building. The An American-run casual yet sophisticated
Da
Ben

10 10 07 think fried snail spring rolls and minia-

h1

location of probably the best seafood in beautiful courtyard is liberally decorated restobar on Food Street with a great
09 La Salsa 09 Binhs Salon
2/2

08 06 0506 ture vegetarian banh xeo, in a casually the country. Every type of ocean-breathing with plants, fans, blowlight jets of water, outdoor terrace area, a shared indoor bar
Xu 04 elegant setting that make this spot near animal is available here in addition to an and shade is provided by tasteful cream space, a chefs table and upstairs seating.
12 07 an
04
Ngo Die 03 10 White Cloud 10 LAtelier the train tracks standout. Be sure to try array of tofu and vegetables. From crab parasols. Inside, a non-smoking, air- Matched by contemporary dcor, the cre-
Ngo
27

09 05 u 02 the roll-your-own cha ca spring rolls and to Russian sturgeon and grouper, most of conditioned room is the perfect place to ative food menu focuses on doing comfort
Ng 1
3

check the schedule for live traditional

35

03 02 11 Cielo 11 Pure Heaven this seafood harks from down south or escape the heat. Western and Vietnamese food well, while a decent new and old
o

o
Ng 01 music. Halong Bay. The restaurant is set up so fare is on offer, they have a huge range world wine list and innovative cocktails
Sheraton that every day is a banquet and you can of wine, beer and coffee and they serve make up the mix. Popular with the media
12 Bobby Chinn 12 International SOS
Ng

QUAN AN NGON pick your poisons from the tank. excellent fries too. and artsy set.
Ho
o1

Au
y 01 Co CONTEMPORARY STREET FOOD
13 Le Marrakech 13 Ham Long Mini Market WILD LOTUS LE PUB THE BOOMBOX LOUNGE
Ta

i 18 Phan Boi Chau, Hoan Kiem +

Ma
en

Dam Tel: 3942 8162

Be n

CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL OLD SKOOL

D. V

Tri ai
Ho

InterContinental 14 Daluva 14 Module 17 sales@ngonhanoi.com 55A Nguyen Du, Tel: 3943 9342 25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3926 2104 1 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3939 2888
Th

y
Nh

Ta Westlake
7am to 9.30pm www.wildlotus.com.vn www.lepub.org This Chill Lounge is not too far from
ng
at

n 15 Joma 15 Georges Fashion Long-time favourite serving up Vietnam- 10.30am to 10.30pm 7am to midnight the Opera House and is ideal for drinks
Da Ve
Ba

on
g We s t L a ke ese classics in a large French villa and One of the citys most popular Vietnamese Dark red walls and even darker brown against a bright backdrop. Its large bar
N
n

Du
courtyard. Menu is huge, made up of restaurants is a delight from the entrance seating run through the homely and serves up test tube shooters and the
16 Hanoi Rock City 16 Veggies street-food options and higher end dishes inwards. Walk over water features and casual Le Pub, one of the few bars in Party Animal Bucket offers a range of
from Hanoi, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City. 100 roses and up the spiral staircase into town with a regular stream of clientele. shots. Of course, its a caf/restaurant,
17 Love Chocolate Cafe 17 Zenith Yoga Quick service makes it ideal for lunch and subdued lighting, warm colours and a A long list of imported beer, Tiger draft, too and be sure to check out the owners
Phu the array of options makes it perfect for menu that mixes subtle, well-executed a decent international cum Vietnamese collection of boom boxes next to the DJ
Tay Ho 08 18 El Gaucho newcomers to Vietnamese cuisine. Order Asian flavours. Not for those who love food menu, happy hour specials and Booth. Live music on Wednesdays and a
loads and share, of course. the sharpness of some street foods, but live sport make up the comfortable mix. DJ at the weekend.

90 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 91

LEISURE & ARTS
LISTINGS
AMUSEMENT 092
BOOKS SHOPS 092
CINEMAS 092
CLUBS & SOCIETIES 092
COOKING CLASSES 092
DANCING 092
FITNESS 092
FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY 092
GALLERIES 093
GOLF COURSES 093
MASSAGE 093
HAIDRESSERS & SALONS 093
AMUSEMENT
BINGO CAF
57 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
A proper two-floor pool hall with a
restaurant on the ground floor. Plenty
of tables in good condition, great for a
night out.
COSMOS
168 Ngoc Khanh, Dong Da
This bowling alley may be small, but if
youre hankering for a night at the lanes,
this one has instant replay cameras
that will show your strike again in slow
motion.
HANOI STAR BOWL
2B Pham Ngoc Trach, Dong Da
Tel: 3574 1614
Plenty of lanes, and the zany colours
add to the festive feel. A game will cost
VND27,000, plus a little extra for the shoe
rental. All in all it makes for a night of
good fun.
QUAN TOM
89 Bui Thi Xuan
Tel: 3294 47844
The staff at this karaoke bar is quite
friendly. Large, comfortable rooms, and
their claim to fame a vast English lan-
guage track list, makes for a good night.
BOOK SHOPS
BOOKWORM
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 3711
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of
Hanois literary scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite a bit and
now shares a space with Hanoi Cooking
Centre. With over 15,000 new and second-
hand fiction and nonfiction titles in stock,
the shop also buys used books and offers
free travel advice.
HIEU SACH THANG LONG
55 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3825 7043
A large bookstore with mostly Vietnamese
material, but there is also a selection of
French and English books and even some
literature.
XUNHASABA
32 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3825 4068
Often referred to just as The Foreign
Language Bookstore, youll find a decent
selection of both books and magazines.
Their biggest section is composed of ESL
materials, but you will also find fiction.
92 | Word May 2012
visit wordhanoi.com for a
comprehensive list of our listings
KIDS 093
LEISURE GENERAL 093
NAILS 094
PERFORMING ARTS 094
SPAS 095
SPORTS CLASSES 095
TENNIS 095
VIETNAMESE CLASSES 095
ARTS CLASSES 095
COLUMN
CINEMA BUFF 094
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3936 2648
Not a movie theater per se, but a private
film club that charges a membership fee
in return for entrance to a wide selection
of movies, new and old. The management
has an eclectic taste and shows films
from all over the world.
MEGASTAR
Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, 6th floor, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: 3974 3333
www.megastarmedia.net
Inside Vincom towers, this big, western-
style multiplex shows some of the latest
English language and Asian foreign films.
The experience includes fairly well-
stocked concession stands, comfortable
seats, air conditioning and a booming
sound system.
NATIONAL CINEMA CENTRE
87 Lang Ha, Dong Da
Tel: 3514 2278
Cineplex with several smaller theaters
and an arcade. Movies are quite cheap,
especially matinees. Be sure to ask if
the movie is subtitled in Vietnamese or
dubbed.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES
DEMOCRATS ABROAD VIETNAM
www.democratsabroad.org
Affiliated with the American Democratic
Party, like-minded and politically active
individuals can stay in touch and continue
to affect the political winds that are
blowing Stateside. Hosts regular events for
every major election cycle.
AMERICAN CLUB
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3824 1850
www.americanclubhanoi.com
A bit worn around the edges, but the
facilities are still useful and the grounds
pleasant. They host frequent events that
are open to the public. Wide lawn, vol-
leyball and basketball courts may make
the place worth a visit.
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
The exclusive social and fitness club is
located on the banks of West Lake. Golfers
hit balls into the lake from the driving
range and swimmers enjoy a lovely view
from the pool. The gym is small and
classes are not included as part of the
steep yearly membership fees.
LESPACE
24 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3936 2164
www.ambafrance-vn.org
The cultural arm of the French Embassy is
very active in the cultural life of the city.
They both organise and host many func-
tions music, performing arts, film. Large
French language library as well as classes
and workshops.
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 0088.
www.hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a school, retail
outlet and caf, where you can find
classes on not just Vietnamese cooking,
but international cuisine, held in a
beautiful setting. They also offer culinary
tours.
HIDDEN HANOI
137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
Tel: 0912 254045
www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary
classes are offered in these well-appoint-
ed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable
staff will guide you through the secrets
of Vietnamese cooking in an open air
courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS
31 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3715 0577
The well-known restaurant also offers
one-off cooking courses in the kitchens
at their Truc Bach location. Dont worry if
you forget some of the tricks, as the class
includes a recipe booklet.
KITCHEN ART STORE AND STUDIO
Lane 38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 6680 2770
www.kitchenart.vn
Well stocked and modern cooking store
offering cooking classes with one of
Vietnam's popular food personalities.
Kitchen Art Basic Baking Classes also open
to non-Vietnamese speaking students.
The friendly staff ensures that everyone is
able to follow the instructor.
KOTO
Lane 52/28, House 9, To Ngoc Van
Tel: 3747 0377
www.koto.com.vn
This charitable organisation, which helps
street kids gain the skills to succeed
in the hospitality industry, also offers
cooking classes to the public on Tuesdays
at their training centre. Learn how to
make some of the items on their menu
at home. Pick up is also available at their
Van Mieu location.
DANCING
ASPARA DANCE STUDIO
137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 7916
Located in the same building as Hidden
Hanoi, Aspara is a multi-genre dance stu-
dio. Will provide instruction in everything
from belly dance, to meringue, salsa and
bachata.
ROCKIT FITNESS
Tel: 0126 6257214
yurymiankovich@gmail.com
Yury is an internationally certified
personal and group exercise specialist
who teaches at the gyms and provides
individual trainings. Offers a good work
out that incorporates jazz, hip-hop, reggae
and African tribal movements. For Further
info contact Yury directly through email or
by telephone.
FITNESS
ELITE FITNESS
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 6281
www.elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line
fitness equipment, separate cardio and
spinning areas and an indoor swimming
pool with a retractable roof. The spacious
studios and natural light make it a wel-
coming place to squeeze in a work out,
but be prepared to pay. This place is top
of the range.
FOUR SEASONS SWIMMING POOL
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da
Tel: 3537 6250
This beautiful hotel has a swimming
pool for VND40,000 per day, and another
VND10,000 for a locker to keep your pan-
taloons. It might be a good idea to go
during the off hours, as its a well used
pool. But if laps are what you want, the
pool is large and, at times, quiet.
HANOI BOOTCAMP BEEACTIVE
To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
beeactivetoday@gmail.com
The successor to the weekly bootcamp
famously run by fitness professional
Helen Kindness, BeeActive continues the
community spirit by bringing together
both the fit and unfit to work out on the
streets. To take part, drop them an email.
Sessions are all held around the To Ngoc
Van area, unless stated otherwise:
Mon 6am to 7am (Ciputra)
Mon, Tues, Fri 9.15am to 10.15am
www.artvietnamgallery.com
Mon, Tues, Wed, Thurs 6.30pm to
7.30pm
Sat 7am to 8am
NSHAPE FITNESS
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
Tel: 6266 0495
www.nshapefitness.vn
This gym with American Life Fitness
cardio and weight machines, provides
a clean, uncrowded environment and
expertly staffed facilities with a selection
of fitness classes for its members. Classes
include boxing, yoga and groupX with
both Vietnamese and foreign fitness
trainers on hand to give exercisers advice.
Membership starts from VND1.5 million
per month with no joining fee.
STAR FITNESS
4th Floor, The Garden, Me Tri, Tu Liem
Tel: 3787 5353
This lifestyle, top-end gym in My Dinh
offers massage rooms, steam rooms,
saunas, Jacuzzis, cold plunge baths, gym
areas, exercise studios, locker rooms,
and a swimming pool. It is a great option
for residents living on the outskirts of
the city.
SUNWAY HEALTH CLUB
19 Pham Dinh Ho, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3971 3888
Very good equipment in this small gym,
housed in a little hotel. None of the extra
frills that you might expect at a larger
place, but all the machines are running
and well maintained. Monthly price of
membership for non-guests is about
VND1.4 million.
FOOTBALL, SOCCER & RUGBY
HANOI CAPITALS FOOTBALL CLUB
www.hanoi-capitals.blogspot.com
Hanoi Capitals dont play. This football
club is serious about their sport. The uni-
forms and attitudes alone tell you theyre
no Bad News Bears. If you want to let
your skills shine get in contact with Ricky
at 0903 413339.
HANOI YOUTH FOOTBALL LEAGUE Vietnamese art in all its forms: sculpture,
www.hanoiyouthfootball.com/english/home/ painting, lacquer, photography and video,
from both up-and-coming and well-
The biggest youth football league in the
established artist s. Check their website
capital. Youths aged 8 to 16 years old come
for a list of exhibitions and events.
together to play regular tournaments.
BUI GALLERY
VIET CELTS
www.vietcelts.com 23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
The first and only Gaelic Football league Tel: 3944 8595
www.thebuigallery.com
in Hanoi has recently added a womens
Housed in a picturesque French colonial
team. The teams play in the Southeast
villa, Bui Gallery is one of Hanoi's newest
Asia Gaelic League as well as in tourna-
and boldest modern art galleries. Features
ments all over the region. Bring a sporting cutting-edge contemporary art from
spirit as a spectator or a player. Vietnam, Indonesia, China, Brazil, the US
Call Gareth for more information: and Europe.
0904 228629.
VIETNAM SWANS
HANOI ART CONTEMPORARY
www.vietnamswans.com GALLERY
In true Aussie style, the Vietnam Swans 36-38 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
footballers hold not only weekly matches Tel: 3934 7192
and training sessions, but social and www.hanoi-artgallery.com
drinking affairs as well. Concerned just as
This art space is home to a large collec-
much with fun as with winning, this club tion of your standard tourist fare along
is welcoming to anyone who is willing to with a smatter of more unique pieces.
have a good time.
MAI GALLERY
GALLERIES 113 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3938 0568
APRICOT GALLERY www.maigallery-vietnam.com
40B Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem Several floors of paintings, regularly
changed, by some of the best known
Tel: 3828 8965
www.apricot-artvietnam.com contemporary artists in the country, some
This centrally located space houses of whom theyve helped in gaining inter-
art by some of Vietnams best-known national recognition. Mai specialises is
contemporary artists, such as Hoang Hai finding the perfect dcor for both homes
Anh and Dinh Quan, as well as up and and offices.
coming artists.
MAISON DES ARTS
ART VIETNAM 31 Van Mieu, Dong Da
7 Nguyen Khac Nhu, Ba Dinh Tel: 3747 8096
Tel: 3927 2349 www.maisondesartshanoi.com
A gallery near the Temple of Literature
with several floors bills itself not only as
One of Vietnams best known and
respected galleries, features contemporary an art gallery, but a multi-purpose social
and cultural space. Frequent exhibitions
feature both Vietnamese and international
artists. Mlle. Nga, who runs the space,
SWIMMING POOLS also involves herself in several other
cultural projects around Hanoi.
ARMY HOTEL RED RIVER GALLERY
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan Kiem 7 Hang Khay, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3825 2896 Tel: 3934 9071
www.redriverartvietnam.com
FOUR SEASONS This small gallery has focused on building
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong Da a collection of traditional Hanoi images
Tel: 3537 6250 with a modern twist since it opened
in 1990. The gallery actively seeks out
HANOI CLUB
talented young contemporary artists.
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho SUFFUSIVE GALLERY
Tel: 3823 8115 35A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
www.hanoi-club.com
www.suffusiveart.com
Dont be fooled by the signs hawking caf
HORISON FITNESS CENTER
sua da. Hidden within the coffee shop
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh interior is a small gallery showing some of
Tel: 3733 0808 Vietnams newest talent.
MELIA HOTEL TADIOTO
113 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem
Tadioto hosts an alternative gallery above
Tel: 3934 3343
the bar and caf on the ground floor. A
OLYMPIA
thoughtful space containing rare works by
serious artists questioning quick develop-
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan Kiem ment or changes in societal norms. Hosts
Tel: 3933 1049 frequent literary and musical events,
along with presentations of artwork that
SAO MAI differs from whats available elsewhere
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho in Hanoi.
Tel: 3718 3161
VIET FINE ARTS GALLERY
96 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS
CENTER Tel: 3928 6667
www.vietfinearts.com
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
If youre looking for a well-known name,
and a high price tag to match, Viet Fine
Arts sells work by some of Hanois more
THAN NHAN famous artists.
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung, (Inside the
park) 54 TRADITIONS GALLERY
30 Hang Bun, Hoan Kiem
THANG LOI HOTEL Tel: 3715 0194
200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho www.54traditions.com.vn
The only gallery in Vietnam focusing on
the antiques, artifacts and art of Viet-
nams 53 minority groups and the Kinh
majority people. Has over 1,000 items on
display and objects in the collection have
been exhibited in museums both in Hanoi
and abroad.
GOLF COURSES
HANOI CLUB DRIVING RANGE
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3623 8115
A fitness club that also boasts a two-level
driving range where the balls are hit into
the water. No net means you can gauge
your driving. The price for a bucket of golf
balls depends on whether or not youre
a member.
LANG HA DRIVING RANGE
6 Huynh Thuc Kang, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3835 0909
The driving range has two levels and a
netted area to catch the balls. Although
the facilities might not be up to country
club standards, it is in a relatively
convenient location. One can either pay a
monthly membership fee of around VND2
million, or pay by the ball as you go.
TAM DAO GOLF AND RESORT
www.tamdaogolf.com
Relatively new golf club near the base
of the mountains at Tam Dao. It is about
two hours from the city, but does provide
an 18-hole course with a clubhouse and
a spectacular view, surrounded by green
hills.
MASSAGE
JUST MASSAGE
237 Au Co, Tay Ho
Tel: 6671 2249
www.justmassage.org.vn
Aromatherapy, Swedish, shiatsu and
pregnancy massages all given by the
hands and touch of nine visually impaired
therapists. The massages here are profes-
sional and, of course, in aid of a great
cause. Check their website for their range
of promotions.
HANOI AESTHETIC INSTITUTE
14 Yen Phu, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3945 4548
www.vienthammyhanoi.com.vn
Trained at the Tue Tinh Traditional Hos-
pital, the therapists at this no frills, tra-
ditional Vietnamese massage centre use
a variety of techniques including tuina,
aromatherapy, ayurvedic and shiatsu.
Also offer a range of healing treatments
as well as not-so-traditional laser and
plastic surgery.
THANH GIA
18 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba Trung
38 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
One of a number of foot massage parlours
in town that has treatments focusing
as much on the pressure points of your
feet at they do on the rest of your body.
Strong hands, unbranded oils and, if you
ask, tiger balm oil.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
DINH HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh
Tel: 09877 18899
A small but popular hair salon that serves
both expats and locals. The many repeat
customers go back because of Dinhs will-
ingness to both follow instructions, or to
be creative when asked. Services include
scalp massage, shampooing, colouring
and styling.
FRANGIPANI SPA
405 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh
Tel: 6329 2915
www.frangipani.com.vn
New garden-themed day spa named after
the frangipani flower, known in Vietnam
for its healing properties. Services include
hair salon, nail care and massages.
Details to amenities like bathrobes, slip-
pers and towels provide a comfortable
atmosphere.
TA SALON
Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3716 1754 / 3758 2940 (Ciputra).
Hotline: 0912 267613
Multi-functional hair and body salon
with a range of treatments running from
haircut, highlights, shampoo, straighten-
ing and perm to hot stone foot and body
massages, a range of facials, waxing,
bikini lines and body scrub. With a first
salon in Ciputra, TA number two is at the
Hanoi club. Popular with both western
and Asian expats as well as A-class
Vietnamese.
THE HAIR WORKSHOP
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3934 5980
Located in Hanoi Towers, The Hair Work-
shop has a number of hairdressers used
to cutting and styling all types of hair. The
prices are significantly higher than they
would be on the street, or at a smaller
shop, but there are many people who
refuse to go anywhere else. A full service
salon that also offers such services as
waxing.
HAIR SPACE
137 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho
Tel: 0912 127554
Run by an Australian expat named Cat,
this is a small but comfortable and
well-run hair studio located in the Hidden
Hanoi building. There is only Cat and her
one assistant, so be sure to make an
appointment.
TRAN HUNG HAIR CREATION
5 Ho Xuan Huong, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3943 4946
Located near Reunification Park, Hung
has a long list of satisfied clients, both
western and Vietnamese. Be prepared to
allot one to two hours for a cut and more
for colour as Hung is a perfectionist.
KIDS
HANOI ZOO
Off Kim Ma, opposite Daewoo Hotel
Tel: 3834 7395
Really as much a park as it is a zoo, you
can find Vietnamese families on picnics
here on any given day. Strewn throughout,
sometimes in curiously small cages, youll
also find a number of animals large and
small, all indigenous to the country. Also,
there are other attractions for children
such as a fun house, and big, floating
plastic balls they can climb into. The
One Man Cinema operates out of here at
weekends.
THANG LONG WATER PUPPET
THEATRE
Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan Kiem
Daily shows of traditional rustic
Vietnamese carved puppets, animate
folkloric tales accompanied by music.
This can be fun for adults as well as
children.
VINCOM TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
There are a bunch of toy stores and shops
for children in the mall area of the second
tower. Also, near the food court, youll
find an arcade with video games and tiny
rides for very small kids.
LEISURE GENERAL
HANOI HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
www.hanoih3.com
This big, assorted family gets together
every week to go on out of town excur-
sions, for hour-long runs along paths
marked by flour spots, and with no lack
of beer stops along the way. Drink and
get into shape at the same time, and
add some sight-seeing into the picture.
May 2012 Word | 93

cinema buff
Hoa Le takes a peek at what's on in cinemas this week
THE ARTIST
Director: Michel Hazanavicius
Stars: Jean Dujardin, Brnice
Bejo and John Goodman
Genre: romance, comedy, drama
George Valentin is at his peak of
a superstars silent movie career
in 1920s Hollywood. Peppy Miller,
however, is an enthusiastic young
extra seeking to make a name for
herself in the entertainment world.
Their accidental meeting at a
movie premiere changes the pairs
lives in the most unexpected
way. It occurs at the advent of
the talking picture, which pushes
George into oblivion while Peppy
slowly rises through the industry.
This 2011 Oscar winner will hit
screens on May 18 at MegaStar
cinema complexes in Vincom
Tower (191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung)
and in Pico Mall (229 Tay Son,
Dong Da)
MIDNIGHT IN PARIS
Directors: Woody Allen
Stars: Owen Wilson, Rachel
McAdams and Kathy Bates
Genre: comedy, romance
Engaged couple Gil and Inez travel
to Paris as a tag-along vacation
on her parents' business trip. Gil
is a successful Hollywood writer,
but is struggling with his first
novel. He falls in love with the
city and thinks they should move
94 | Word May 2012
there after they get married, but
Inez does not share his romantic
notions of Paris or the idea that
the 1920s was a golden age.
When Inez goes off dancing with
her friends, Gil takes a walk at
midnight and discovers what
could be the ultimate source of
inspiration for writing. Gil's daily
walks at midnight in Paris could
take him closer to the heart of
the city but further from the
woman he's about to marry.
Watch it at MegaStar from
May 25
THE POLL DIARIES
Director: Chris Kraus
Stars: Paula Berger, Edgar Selge,
Tambet Tuisk, Jeanette Hain,
Richy Mller
Genre: drama
Set in the early 20th century,
The Poll Diaries tells the story of
14 year-old Oda von Siering as
she travels to Poll, her familys
country estate by the Estonian
Baltic Coast. In her luggage Oda
carries the mortal remains of
her mother, who died in Berlin.
Her father Ebbo is an eccentric
doctor whose questionable
interest in racial research has
left him on the fringes of the
scientific community. Europe is
on the very brink of World War
I and the Russian forces are
persecuting Estonian rebels when
Oda meets wounded Estonian
anarchist Schnaps. She hides him
on Poll and nurses him back to
health despite risking a tragic
chain of events.
This German film is part of the
European Film Festival 2012 and
will be screened at 8pm on May
teamwork and to have a great time.
18 and 10am on May 19 at the
National Cinema Centre, 87 Lang
Ha St., Ba Dinh. German with
English and Vietnamese subtitles.
ALL TOMORROWS PARTIES
Director: Jonathan Caouette
Stars: Animal Collective, Battles
and Belle & Sebastian
Genre: Documentary, music
Described as a "post-punk DIY
bricolage", the film was created
using footage generated by the
fans and musicians attending the
events themselves, on a multitude
of formats including Super8,
camcorder and mobile phone.
Rather than conventional
concert footage, we get insights
into the motivation and vibe of
the festival. Why people organise
such events, why people attend,
why people perform, all starts
to make perfect sense through
the films kaleidoscopic lens.
Performances from Belle and
Sebastian, Sonic Youth, Battles,
The Boredoms, Mogwai, Yeah
Yeah Yeahs, The Gossip, Iggy
and the Stooges and Patti Smith
get equal billing among such
random delights as fans climbing
cottages, Sun Ra explaining
how he feels about music and of
course, the destination itself.
This movie will be screened for
free at CAM ATK on 73A Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung at 8:30pm on
May 16
Emphasis here is on fun. Bus leaves on
Saturdays from the American Club on Hai
Ba Trung at 2pm in summer and 1:30pm
in winter.
HANOI LITTLE LEAGUE BASEBALL
www.hanoibaseball.com
If youre looking for a little league base-
ball team in Hanoi, this is the website to
check out. One of the first, if not still the
only, such club in town, their mission is
to teach young people about the game,
Practice every Saturday at Xuan Dinh Field
from 6.15 to 8.30 am
NAILS
FANCY SPA
26 Dinh Ngang, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3824 4183
A small Vietnamese spa and salon. Prices
are quite high, but the shop offers a wide
range of services in addition to manicure/
pedicure.
LINKQ
271 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3725 2359
One of a chain of all-purpose beauty
salons that specialises in manicures and
pedicures. This place has a lot of business
from word of mouth, so its best to call
ahead and make an appointment.
THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA
57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 0316
www.thucucbeauty.com
This all-purpose beauty salon offers spa
pedicures in a Zen-like atmosphere where
your manicurist wont be chatting on her
mobile phone.
TOP SPOT
52 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 8344
They offer a long-lasting, professional
manicure and pedicure service for barely
more than you would pay to get your
nails cut on the street. The staff doesnt
speak much English, but they have an
extensive menu to choose from.
PERFORMING ARTS
HANOI CIRCUS
67 Tran Nhan Tong, Hai Ba Trung
For VND50,000, see an array of live perfor-
mances, both human and animal. Bears
ride motorbikes, monkeys do tricks. The
acrobatic performances are particularly
amazing.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
www.hitshanoi.com
Hanois premiere community theatre
group has been entertaining audiences
around the city since 2001. The amateur
acting society both draws from and gives
back to the local community. All profits
from the bi-yearly performances are
donated to charities in Vietnam.
HANOI OPERA HOUSE
1 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3933 0113
www.ticketvn.com
This French colonial building hosts a
packed schedule of cultural events
throughout the year, everything from the
New York Philharmonic to cutting edge
Vietnamese performance art has graced
its stage.
THANG LONG CA TRU THEATRE
25 Tong dan, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3665 54608
Head to this theatre, lodged on the cam-
pus of the Vietnam Revolution Museum,
for a taste of one of Vietnams most
traditional musical forms.
YOUTH THEATRE
11 Ngo Thi Nham, Hoan Kiem
A few blocks south of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this community theatre space hosts both
music events and theatre productions.
SPAS
KIM DUNG
38 Nguyen Cong Hoan, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3483 50079
Face massage, hair care, manicure, pedi-
cure, this is a one-stop shop for all sorts
of comfort services and products. Facilities
are clean and modern. Hairstyling also
available.
LANCY SPA
35 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 9461
This all-purpose spa offers the full menu:
massage, nails, skincare at reason-
able prices. Discounts offered to regular
customers.
LE SPA DU METROPOLE
Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15A Ngo Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 3826 6919
sparec@sofitelhanoi.vnn.vn
A five-star spa for a five-star hotel, this
colonial-style centre of relaxation is pure
luxury. Choose the genre of music you
want to hear in your treatment room from
a menu, select anything from theme-
named facials through to traditional,
Vietnamese-style massages, and indulge.
It comes at price, but when youve just
got to treat yourself
ORCHIDS SPA
34 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3926 4862
www.orchids-spa.com
Just a few steps away from bia hoi corner,
the unisex Orchids spa recently one a
VTV award for being one of the top spas
in Hanoi. Treatments range from facials
through to waxing, saunas and slimming
treatments.
SANTAL SPA
112 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 4686
Private rooms with showers, a beautifully
designed interior, well-trained and profes-
sional staff. The place to go if you want
to forget a busy work week, or the busy
streets.
THU CUC EXOTICAL SPA
57 Nguyen Khac Hien, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3715 0316
Near Truc Bac, Thu Cuc is an all-purpose
spa where you can get a full-body mas-
sage, a facial, manicure or pedicure in
a relaxing environment. Both prices and
service are comparable to the West.
ZEN SPA
100 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 9889
www.zenspa.com.vn
Brushing up against the banks of the
Red River, this Indochine-styled day spa
hideaway comes replete with an oasis-like
bonsai garden and peace and quiet, a
perfect tonic to the chaos of the city. Has
a range of five-element spa packages as
well as just one-off facials and waxings
and other treatments. Has a second
outlet at 100 Xuan Dieu as well as spas
in Hoi An.
SPORTS CLASSES
HOANG CAU SPORTS CENTRE
59 Hoang Cau, Dong Da
Tel: 3511 8030
The distinction of this fitness centre is
that they have a large space, filled with
a number of different fields of different
sizes. Includes areas for aerobics, foot-
ball and rugby. Classes depend, according
to the season.
RED RIVER RUNNERS
www.redriverrunners.wordpress.com
The Red River Runners meet every
Saturday to run through the fields and
suburbs skirting the Red River in Hanoi.
The group organises races, such as the
annual Hanoi Triathlon and the Song Hong
Half Marathon, which are community
events that help to add a different, more
social dimension to fitness and sport in
the capital.
UNIS COMMUNITY EDUCATION
UN International School, Tay Ho
Tel: 3758 1551
www.unishanoi.org
The UN International School is located
between West Lake and the highway
heading to Noi Bai Airport. They have
great facilities and offer a number of dif-
ferent classes throughout the year.
TENNIS
THUY LOI SPORTS COMPLEX
95 Chua Boc, Dong Da
A wide sports pitch that also offers a
swimming pool and a football field if
you get tired of tennis. Football fields
are almost always crowded, but even for
tennis it might be good to go during the
off hours.
VAN TUE THANG LONG
136 Ho Tung Mau, Tu Liem
A little bit hard to find, but Van Tue Thang
Long offers quite a bit of room, with a
sit-down restaurant and a few tennis
courts. Facilities are a bit run down, but a
place to go if you want to play tennis on
concrete courts.
VIETNAMESE CLASSES
VIETNAMESE TEACHING GROUP
164 Le Thanh Nghi, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 7236 9842
www.vietnameseteaching.net
Offers not only Vietnamese classes, but
also a variety of excursions and events
that will help foreigners and expats to
better understand Vietnamese culture.
Organised and professional, classes are
usually sold in blocks, which you pay for
in advance.
VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY
B7 Bis, Bach Khoa, Dong Da, Tel: 3869 4323
www.vnu.edu.vn/en
This national university also offers some
language and culture classes to foreign-
ers. Teaching standards are high, and
prices are not unreasonable, at around
VND150,000 for a one-on-one lesson.
YOGA & MEDITATION
NEW TEXT FOR ZENITH YOGA
A western-style yoga studio with three
practice rooms offering different types
of yoga, pilates, tai chi meditation and
dance. Certified professional teachers
provide up to seven classes a day, with
private classes also available. Workshops
and retreats are also held, both at the
studio and further afield.
UNESCO YOGA CENTER
3B Dang Thai Than, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3913 5497
www.yoga.com.vn
One of the only yoga studios in town
exclusively devoted to the practice.
Professional instruction with well-trained
teachers, and a very low monthly fee.
ZENITH YOGA
3rd floor, 111 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 0904 356561
www.zenithyogavietnam.com
A premier studio offering some of the
best yoga, pilates and tai chi in town.
Kids yoga, prenatal yoga and meditation
are also available. Professional
instruction along with a peaceful
atmosphere creates one of the most
zen places in Hanoi. Drop in classes are
available for VND200,000 and a month
unlimited class pass costs VND1.8
million.
FASHION
LISTINGS
ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR 095
CLOTHING 095
LINGERIE 096
SHOPPING MALLS 096
ACCESSORIES & FOOTWEAR
BOO SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3923 1147
This skateshop offers a variety of clothes,
shoes and skateboarding equipment. Most
of the T-shirts are made and designed
in Vietnam, while the shoes and other
equipment are made for export, often
rejected due to minor defects. Staff is
knowledgeable about Hanois best skate-
boarding spots.
EURO FASHION SHOES
26, 84/16 Ngoc Khanh, Tel: 0904153041
While you may have to dig through piles
of mismatched or orthopaedic-looking
shoes, this shop is full of hidden gems in
larger sizes, a rare find in Hanoi.
EURO SHOES
320 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
If youre looking for a diamond in the
rough, head for Euro shoes, which has a
wide selection of options, many of which
youll want to give a pass. Often carries
larger sizes than most Vietnamese retailers.
HANDMADE SHOES
18 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 5357
This cobblers shop repairs shoes and
makes shoes to order. The staff speaks
limited English, so its best to bring along
your favourite pair to get copied.
HUONGS JEWELLERY SHOP
62 Hang Ngan, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 1046
A small store specialising in silver
necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and
pendants. While Huongs merchandise is
mostly silver or pearl, the staff will also
make jewellery to order.
IPA-NIMA
73 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3933 4000
Started by Hong Kong born designer Chris-
tina Yu, Ipa-Nimas stores are filled with
their one-of-a-kind purses and accessories.
Their use of colour, a unique design phi-
losophy and hand done embellishments
appeals to jetsetters and fashionistas from
Los Angeles to Paris. Always eye-catching
and trendy, Ipa-Nima accessories are
tangibly timeless and sophisticated.
KINH MAT HA THANH
2 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3928 6556
Large selection of lenses as well as bio-
medic contact lenses imported from the
US. But buyer beware, lenses in Vietnam
usually arent scratch-resistant.
LONDON DIAMOND GALLERY
21 Nguyen Huy Tu, Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 4972 6327
www.londondiamondgallery.com
Home to the worlds finest gemstones,
master craftsmen and jewellery experts,
London Diamond Gallery is among the
most established jewellery houses in the
world, with an international presence that
spans across England, Japan, Hong Kong
and South-East Asia.
LOUIS VUITTON
Sofitel Metropole, 15 Ngo Quyen
Tel: 3824 4977
This boutique offers an exclusive collec-
tion of the French designer handbags and
accessories.
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for a comprehensive
list of our listings
SPORTSWEAR 096
TAILORS 096
OPTICIANS & GLASSES 096
THREE TREES
15 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 8725
The jewellery on offer, designed by a Belgian
expat, often features chunkier gold shapes
with small, well-placed diamonds. Hidden in
the back of the store there is also a display
case featuring less-expensive costume jewelry.
TINA SPARKLE
17 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 7616
An eclectic assortment of costume jewelry
and Chula dresses are scattered among a
wide collection of bags by one of Vietnams
most popular designers, Ipa-Nima. Check
out the seasonal sales for heavy discounts.
VIETNAM OPTICAL
138B Giang Vo, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3736 5505
This all-purpose eyewear shop offers
free eye exams and a wide selection
of frames. Usually there is at least one
English-speaking staff present. The quick
and easy service means you will be out of
the store, lenses in hand, in an hour.
CLOTHING
CALVIN KLEIN
19-21 Dinh Tien Hoang ; 61-63 Cau Go, Hoan Kiem
If its all in a name then Calvin Kleins
lakeside store has got it pretty much sewn
up. Underwear sits next to jeans going
for around VND2.5 million and a range
of quality CK shirts, belts and more. By
Hanoi standards, prices are high, but think
relative. VND5 million for an original, well-
tailored pigskin jacket is pretty good going.
COCO SILK
37A Van Mieu, Dong Da. Tel: 3747 1535
High-end silk clothing retailer located
near the Temple of Literature carries
contemporary looks based on traditional
Vietnamese styles.
CONTRABAND
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007, Contraband
targets young hip working women. Gar-
ments are made from versatile fabrics
that are comfortable to wear and easy to
look after making them ideal for work
and travel. New styles are introduced each
month with limited production runs, offer-
ing a sense of exclusivity.
EOS FASHION AND DCOR
45 Phan Dinh Phuong, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3629 78574
The limited stock in this clothing store
is made up for by the unique design of
the pieces, which are refreshed by the
designer every month.
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store every
second day, this shop offers a huge
range of dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and
accessories in local and imported fabrics.
Clothes fit all sizes, from petite to average
to the generous figure. Alterations and a
made-to-measure service are available at
no extra cost.
HANOI SILK
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3716 3062 . www.hanoisilkvn.com
Located on the ground floor of the Sofitel
Plaza Hotel, this silk shop offers a high-
quality selection of ready-made items. The
May 2012 Word | 95

most popular sellers include robes, linen-
silk blend shirts, ties and jackets.
ISALYNA
1 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3762 4405
www.isalyna.com
The retail outlet for local designer Teddie
Tran, who believes that fashion is all
about attitude. Accordingly, the stores
pieces are mostly basics that can be com-
bined with a range of high-quality leather
accessories and jewellery for a unique
fashion statement.
KANA
41 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3928 6208
Reasonably priced handmade silk clothing
and accessories in a wide range of pat-
terns sized to fit western bodies.
KEN SHOP
108 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 6270 0256
A popular stop for silk lovers, this store is
all about soft and light fabrics. Silk, cotton
and silk cotton mixes in creamy summer
colours or eclectic prints. Ken has a wide
range on offer, from casual summer skirts
to fancy dresses. A cute collection of toys
made of cotton and imported jewellry and
accessories are also for sale.
KENLY SILK
108 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3826 7236
www.kenlysilk.com
Instantly recognizable with its two-pillared
shop front, Kenly prides itself on profes-
sional guidance and high-quality materials
from a designs conception to finish. The
shop caters to everything from fashion
shows to personal designs.
KHAI SILK
133 Hang Ga, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 4237
One of the better established silk shops
in Hanoi, this store also has a satellite
shop in the Sofitel Metropole. With outlets
throughout the country, this household
name is a great place to go for ready-made
silk items. You may find better deals at
other shops, but with the highest quality
silk, at Khai you pay for what you get.
LUALA BOUTIQUE
61 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem Tel: 3936 9899
www.luala.vn
Close to the Opera House, this concept
store dressed up as a spacious boutique
and caf is aimed at the luxury, lifestyle-
focused end of the local market. Has
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai, Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh, Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.fivimart.com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET
36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang, Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So, Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue, Tu Liem
96 | Word May 2012
clothing and accessories for men and
women and stocks the likes of Vera Wang,
Nina Ricci, Elie Saab, Paul & Joe and much
more. Also slated to show contemporary
Vietnamese art. Check out their website
for latest arrivals and their full range of
brands.
MARIE-LINH COUTURE
11 Nha To, Hoan Kiem
74 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem
Parisian-style clothing combined with
quality Vietnamese dressmaking skills.
The beautiful clothes are available in
silk, organza and linen. Also available for
online orders. With the accompanying
home dcor and accessories shop on 38
Hang Trong, it is possible to live an entire
life of couture.
METISEKO
40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
www.metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started out life in
Hoi An, Metisekos move to the capital will
see them bring us their creative, poetic
prints designed for an eco-chic lifestyle.
The products clothing, accessories and
furniture are made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to global organic
standards. Metiseko is also certified by
the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
MOON
111 Ma May, Hoan Kiem
This small shop carries handmade embroi-
dered linen and silk clothes that are usu-
ally less expensive than those found at
the larger stores. The shop owners make
most of the clothes themselves, so they
will adjust designs to fit personal tastes.
NAGU
20 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, www.zantoc.com
Walk past the rows of teddy bears and
head for the small rack of clothing, which
offers unique Japanese-designed dresses
and shirts. The second floor has a selec-
tion of home goods. There is a loyalty
program for frequent customers.
SONG
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3828 6965
This boutique, whose name comes from
the Vietnamese word for life, stocks
high-end linen and silk clothes in a serene
store awash with the fresh scent of
mint. Located just across the street from
the cathedral, prices are on par with its
higher-end neighbours.
TAN MY
66 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem. Tel: 3825 1579
www.tanmyembroidery.com.vn
Located in the heart of the old quarter,
on silk street, Tan My claims to be
Hanois oldest silk and embroidery shop
and boasts customers like Hillary Clinton.
The three-storey shop offers everything
from clothes and hand-embroidered baby
pillows to sumptuous silk bedding.
TAN MY DESIGN
61 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3938 1154
800sqm of elegant, modern space that
offers one-of-a-kind pieces to add to your
home furnishings or wardrobe. Located
across the street from the other Tan My,
one of the oldest silk and embroidery
stores in Hanoi.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 6965
This shops motto Western sizes,
Vietnamese prices, says it all. While
mostly retailing womens separates in
soft cotton jersey and linen, the store
also carries a range of accessories like
embroidered canvas totes and printed
tees. Has a good selection of unique mens
shirts.
VINATEX
25 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
In-town factory outlet for the Vinatex
clothing corp. Carries items for men,
women and children at low prices.
LINGERIE
ANA MAI
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
This small boutique stocks lingerie similar
to Parisian designers Agent Provocateur
and Cosabella.
AUBADE
52 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh . Tel: 3822 9051
Pretty, lacy underwear imported from
France. Carries mostly small sizes, up to a
western sized medium.
MINOSHE
59 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
This popular store carries a wide range of
bras and underwear. Additional locations
in Hanoi Towers and Vincom Towers.
SHOPPING MALLS
HANOI TOWERS
49 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
The retail space on the first floor of this
complex includes everything from a golf
shop to a hair salon. After shopping you
can enjoy a cup of coffee at the Highlands
Caf or a sandwich at Papa Joes.
OCEAN PARK LUXURY MALL
36 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3936 0737
Shopping mall includes international de-
signers such as Versace collection, Dolce
and Gabbana, and Roberto Botticelli.
PARKSON
Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da
www.parkson.com
This Malaysian-owned department store
prides itself on making the shopping
experience one that is more exciting and
fun. Unlike many of Hanois retailers, this
megastore is also appealing to those who
just want to browse. Departments include
mens, womens and childrens clothing as
well as home furnishings.
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
This large shopping centre located at the
southern tip of Hoan Kiem Lake includes
shopping options for every price range.
Bargain bins full of locally-produced cloth-
ing stand beside a Nike retail outlet. Offer-
ings also include a cosmetics department
and multiple electronics retailers.
VINCOM TOWERS
191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3974 9999
A shopping plaza offering a range of
international brands such as Levis, United
Colours of Benetton, Nike, Adidas and Geox.
SPORTSWEAR
ADIDAS
83 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:3828 7190
www.adidas.com
The capital citys flagship store of the
international retailer of sport clothing and
equipment.
B.BALL
65A Quoc Tu Giam, Dong Da, Tel:3224 10780
bball.com.vn
This hoops-themed store sells balls,
basketball shoes and jerseys of the made-
in-China variety.
HANOI CLUB GOLF SHOP
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
A small shop on the first floor of the
Hanoi Club sells a range of equipment to
fulfill your golfing needs, including clubs,
balls and clothes.
NIKE
Trang Tien Plaza, 24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem;
Vincom Towers, 191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
www.nike.com
With multiple locations open, and more
to come, Nike retails high-end sports
clothing and accessories, including yoga
mats and water bottles.
TOLIA
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Also known as the Russian shop, Tolia
retails overstock outdoor wear made for
export. Brands include Jack Wolfskin, The
North Face and Patagonia.
ZONE GOLF
Hanoi Towers, 49 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3936 3233
This centrally-located shop carries all the
equipment and gear you need for a day
at the course.
TAILORS
CAO MINH TAILORS
250 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3939 3594
www.caominh.com
Located near Cua Nam street at the western-
most end of Hang Bong, this established
tailor with over 50 years of experience
specialises in quality materials from Italy
and England. The go-to place for top-of-the-
range suits and shirts for all occasions. The
shop is new and the service spot on.
CO
18 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3828 9925
Though this tailor offers both mens and
womens clothing, the well made dresses
displayed in the window and the range of
bright colours and patterns caters mostly
to female tastes. Located in the shadow of
the cathedral, its a little pricier, but you
pay for the view.
NGOC SHOP
64 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4747
This English-speaking tailor located near
the fabric market off Pho Hue offers a
seasonal collection of ready-made designs.
The owner will also copy clothing or sew
from your own designs. Fabric can be
picked out in the shop or you can bring
your own.
MS TAM
Tel: 0989 098903
With a long list of foreign clientele, Ms
Tam works from her home not too far out-
side of central Hanoi. She will pay a visit
to where you live to take measurements
and then bring the final clothes back a
few days later. She also carries a book of
fabric swatches for those who truly want
to skip the shopping experience.
THANH HA
114 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
Located in the heart of the old quarter,
this tailor caters mostly to tourists, but
a large collection of Vogue pattern books
makes communication very easy.
OPTICIANS & GLASSES
SUNGLASSES STREET
Luong Van Can, Hoan Kiem
If its all in a name, well here its all in a
number - two of them in fact, 51 & 58. Not
exactly conventional opticians - the rows
of shops here do sell frames with lenses
and have basic eye-testing services - but
if its sunglasses with brand names super-
glued on top, here is the place.
THU HA KINH THUOC
134 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung, Tel: 3943 4570
Free eye testing in this well-known, Ger-
man-trained opticians that also doubles
up as a medical clinic and pharmacy spe-
cialising in eye problems. Sells a range of
branded and no n-branded spectacles and
sunglasses. Located opposite the National
Hospital of Ophthalmology.
VIETNAMOPTICAL
48 Hai Ba Trung, Hai Ba Trung & 231 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 3736 5505
www.kinhmatvietnam.com.vn
Chain of opticians, glasses and sunglasses
stores selling a range of branded and
Chinese-imported frames starting at
VND100,000 a go and rising to over VND2
million. The in-store optometrist gives free
eye tests. Helpful, English-speaking staff.
HOME
LISTINGS
BAKERIES 097 LIQUOR & WINE 099
CRAFTS 097
FURNITURE 097
GROCERIES 098
KITCHEN PRODUCTS 098
BAKERIES
DONKEY BAKERY
8 Nguyen Hoang Ton, Tay Ho
www.donkey-donuts.com
Founded as a donut shop, it now also
offers a wide range of German-inspired
breads for those who favour nutrition
over sugar. A loaf of rye bread rings in
at VND40,000. Donuts, breads, cookies
and sandwiches can be ordered online
and delivered to your home or office. The
bakery employs mostly disabled persons
and is dedicated to providing them with
high-quality training and care.
KINH DO
252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
One of the oldest and most well-
established bakeries in the city, maybe
best known as Catherine Deneuves
former haunt, Kinh Do has been around
much longer than any expat. But their
breads, pastries and quiches keep
foreigners and Vietnamese coming back.
Extensive Western and Vietnamese menu
as well.
LE CROISSANT
21 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3943 6707
www.hoasuaschool.com
A well established and well respected
Hanoi institution. Le Croissant not only
makes excellent baked goods of all kinds,
but is also part of the NGO Hoa Sua, a
school for disadvantaged children that
teaches them life changing skills.
PARIS DELI
6 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3928 6697
With two locations, one by the Opera
House and the other by St. Josephs
Cathedral, the Paris Deli makes a good job
of their breads, tarts and pastries. Both
are sit-down restaurants, but are happy
to sell you their baked goods over the
counter, to go.
THU HUONG BAKERY
35C Phan Dinh Phung, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3734 3868
A small but popular Vietnamese-style
bakery selling all types of sweets and
cakes, luxuriously decorated. They also
sell baguettes and sliced breads. They
also deliver.
CRAFTS
CRAFTLINK
43 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel: 3843 7710
www.craftlink.com.vn
This non-profit organisation helps
traditional artisans seek new markets. for
sale in the retail space include handmade
textiles from the northern provinces.
INDIGENOUS
36 Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 0977 799911
A crafts and home furnishings shop
stocked by the Hold The Future organisa-
tion, which helps disabled and under-
privileged children in Hanoi and northern
provinces.
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comprehensive list of our listings
MARKETS 099
COLUMN
BOOK BUFF 098
MARIE LINH HOME DECOR
38 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3938 0436
www.marie-linh-design.com
This newly-opened shop sells specially
designed decorative objects in tradi-
tional Vietnamese lacquer and pottery
in unique styles. It also retails small
accessories that are easy to pack in your
suitcase. Items are sold in the shop and
online.
VIETNAM QUILTS
16 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0473063682
Community development non-profit quilt
shop featuring handmade quilts and
accessories. Styles vary from traditional
to patterned and Asian-inspired. Founded
in 2001 and with outposts in several
locations around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas, enabling
them to make an income and care for
their families.
FURNITURE
BAMBOO FURNITURE CORNER
Cnr. Quang Trung & Tran Nhan Trong, Hai Ba Trung
This cluster of furniture shops offer low-
priced bamboo products from baskets and
desks to drawers.
BELLIZENO
130D Thuy Khue, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3825 1343
The factory location of the Bellizeno
bedding company includes a retail space
for their high thread count sheets and
bedding.
CARPET STREET
There are a number of made-to-order
carpet and rug stores along Kim Ma from
roughly number 239 to 299.
CHI VANG
63 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3936 0601
Located near the lake, this store offers a
wide range of embroidered bedding and
tablecloths. Items can be purchased in the
store or hand-embroidered to order.
COTYLEDON
1A Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3928 7887
This shop stocks high-end duvet and
cushion covers, quilts and tableware like
runners and placemats.
DARLING HANOI
Tel: 01282 273717
info@darlinghanoi.com
www.darlinghanoi.com
Photowalls and Wallpaper of the highest
quality. Create a photowall from your own
image or choose an image from their large
online catalogue. Inspiring and unique
wall dcor for private homes, offices
and reception areas, hotel rooms and
foyers, restaurants and bars. PVC-free,
UV-resistant and moisture-resistant, all
the paper is made in Sweden and shipped
free within Hanoi.
EUROPEAN IKEA SHOP
35 Ngo Thanh Mie, Dong Da
This tiny shop carries a small collection of
IKEA brand furniture, but can order more
from the catalogue.
GRAND BOIS
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
This high-end wooden furniture store
located on the first floor of Hanoi Towers
has offered best-selling designs for a
decade. The classic pieces are mostly
constructed out of dark wood and are
complemented with cream-coloured linen
lampshades and cushions.
HANOI MOMENT
101 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3928 7170
This shop makes sifting through lacquer
kitchenware and accessories easy.
While its stock may not differ from the
stores next door, the display is less
overwhelming.
LA CASA
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 4084
2C Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3828 9616
www.lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing
furniture and other household objects,
this spot has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and silverware.
The items are all locally made by skilled
artisans from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MAI LONG
71 Tran Xuan Soan, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3822 5393
This shop sells material for curtains and
window blinds. They make house calls to
measure and install.
MAROON
156 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3928 7264
Nestled in the heart of the old quarter,
Maroon sells accent pieces to brighten up
any household: lacquer picture frames,
lamps, and silk bedding.
METISEKO
40-42 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan Kiem
www.metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started out life in
Hoi An, Metisekos move to the capital
will see them bring us their creative,
poetic prints designed for an eco-chic
lifestyle. The products clothing,
accessories and furniture are made
from natural silk and organic cotton
certified to global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified by the fair-
trade, Textile Exchange.
MOSAIQUE
6 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3928 6181
This home furnishings shop specialises in
unusual lamps and hand-embroidered pil-
low covers, but also carries other colorful
bric-a-brac and clothing. Free delivery of
all purchases.
UMA
CT 6 My Dinh, Tu Liem; 147 Doi Can, Ba Dinh;
210 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Tel: 3972 7412
www.uma.vn
Designers and retailers within the interior
industry, each branch sells trendy
furniture for modern living as well as
interior design for all types Vietnamese
houses.
VELVET UNDERGROUND
Tel: 3716 0400
www.velvetunderground.biz
This shop offers a range of ready made
items, from bedding to hot water bottle
covers as well as the option of designing
your own item from a choice of fabrics.
The friendly and helpful English-speaking
staff make shopping a pleasure instead
of a chore.
ELECTRONICS
CAMERAS
A DONG PHOTO CO
128 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 0732
This camera shop retails a wide
range of cameras, including both
analogue and DSLR models, as well
as film and accessories like flashes
and lenses.
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
This laptop retail and repair shop
also carries camera accessories
and cases.
FUONG MAY ANH
5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
This small store has a wide
selection of Viet Nam-produced
Pentax cameras. Also has a
selection of imported lenses.
NGUYEN CAU
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
This camera shop overlooking the
lake develops both digital and
film prints. Services include photo
mounting and passport photos.
COMPUTERS AND
ELECTRONICS
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel: 3772
4772
This large electronics retailer deals
in computers, printers, as well as
external storage devices.
HI-TECH USA
23 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3938 6261
A small, but good all-around
electronics store, selling all kinds
of electronics. Speakers, I-Pods,
headphones, cables and phone
accessories. Many name-brands.
PICO PLAZA
35 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
This is a super-sized electronics
shop with each floor devoted to
a specific kind of electronics.
Youll be able to find pretty much
anything youre looking for here,
from a phone to a computer to a
washing machine.
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
28B Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
Tel: 0983 011081
This service company can help
with a just about any computer-
related task. Computer repairs, set
up, Wi-Fi, design, networking and
development. On-site and off-site
service, and free quotes.
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
Located on bustling computer
street, this shop offers a range
of computer accessories including
keyboards and USB drives. They
also do computer and laptop repair.
May 2012 Word | 97

BOOKS OF THE MONTH
Bookworms Truong provides us with this months set of recommended reads
THIS MONTH IM CONCENTRATING
on novels that have a boy who
grows into a mentally scarred adult
as the main character. I also hone
in on some literary prize winners
and finalists.
The Man Asian Literary Prize has
been handed out since 2007. Its
awarded every March to an Asian
novel thats been written in or
translated into English the previous
year. The author gets US$30,000
and the translator US$5,000.
For some reason its difficult
to get your hands on winning or
shortlisted books and so far Ive
only managed to read the 2007
winner Wolf Totem by Chinese
author Jiang Rong. This was
a really powerful book about
a Chinese student living with
Mongolian horse herders who tries
to domesticate a wild wolf. More
importantly, it makes observations
about the effects of the Cultural
Revolution on the desertification
of Mongolia, the virtual extinction
of wolves and the spiritual lives of
nomadic horse herders.
Ive just got my head out of Yu
Huas Brothers, shortlisted in 2008.
Its a very thick book about the
30-year transformation of China
from the Cultural Revolution to the
present frenetic market economy.
Its very funny, yet has scenes of
nightmarish brutality. The brothers
are the dutiful Song Gang and his
sex-crazed step-brother Baldy Li,
who progresses from adolescent
voyeur to hymen inspector at a
beauty pageant to scrap metal
98 | Word May 2012
book buff
millionaire to astronaut tourist.
One reviewer wrote, as he tried
to get his brain around this epic
comic novel, Imagine a novel
written by D. H. Lawrence, updated
by Tom Wolfe and Ben Elton and
filmed by Baz Luhrman and youll
have some idea of what Brothers
would be like if it had originated in
the west.
THE RUSHDIE FACTOR
For anyone who likes this type of
wildly sprawling and hard to put
down socio/historical novel, Id also
recommend Midnights Children
by Salman Rushdie. This won the
Booker Prize in 1981 and was
proclaimed the Booker of Bookers
in 1993.
The novel deals with Indias
transition from British colonialism
to independence and the partition
of India, from 1910 until the
Declaration of Emergency by
Indira Ghandi in 1976, when civil
liberties were suspended. It follows
the life of Saleem Sinai from the
moment of his birth at midnight
on August 15, 1947, at the stroke
of Independence. Saleem finds he
has telepathic powers that connect
him with 1,000 other children born
at the same time. He also has a
strong sense of smell and a huge
nose that allows him to sniff out
dangers that others cant perceive.
The story of his life parallels the
hurricanes of tragedy, disaster and
triumph that swirled through the
emerging, independent country.
Its one of those books that
pulls no punches. Particularly when
dealing with Hindu and Muslim
genocidal traits, you realise why
a lot of middle class Indians look
appalled if you mention that you
loved it, and you realise why a
lot of politicians once wanted it
banned.
An oldie but goodie from 1989
is Bryce Courtneys The Power
of One. This didnt win any major
prizes, but in the 1990s it reaped
a heap of bestseller awards. The
story follows its main character,
Peekay, an Anglo/African boy, from
the aftermath of the Boer War,
through the years of World War
2 and then into the cruel era of
apartheid. Peekay is discriminated
against at an early age by his
white peers for being different.
To survive he learns he has to
be strong inside and his power
of individuality grows with each
mentor he meets. His mantra
throughout is: First with the head
and then with the heart.
Peekay takes up boxing and
as an adult becomes World
Welterweight Champion. Although
the last half of story revolves
around boxing, it is the main
characters inspirational heart at
the centre of the story that makes
the reader laugh, wince, wonder
and unashamedly cry a lot. Its
unabashedly sentimental, but too
good to put down. Readers who like
collecting home spun wisdoms will
be in paradise.
Bookworm can be found at 44
Chau Long, Ba Dinh
AU DELICE
GROCERIES
3 The Giao, Ha Ba Trung
Tel: 3972 0584
www.au-delice-online.com
A European style deli and grocery store
with all sorts of imported products for
your dinner parties or a homesick night
in. Their claim is to have the best selec-
tion of cheeses in Hanoi.
BETTERDAY
114 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 6258 3511
Specialising in organic and fair trade
coffee, tea and cashews, this shop also
offers an array of products for mindful
living. Find perfumes and candles by
Dame Clemence, as well as eco-friendly
laundry detergent, all natural jams, and
virgin coconut oil in this boutique food
shop.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
19/298 Ngoc Lam, Gia Lam
Tel: 3873 6079
www.classicfinefoods.com
The place to go for imported foods
such as foie gras, high-quality meats,
pastas and dairy products. Although they
specialise in the wholesale market, they
occasionally do retail sales.
HUNG LONG MINIMART
71B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 6220
This little store around Westlake has
the feeling of one of those small ethnic
markets you find in London or New York,
but the ethnicity is Western. Reasonably
priced canned foods, potato chips, cookies
and other snacks that may be difficult to
find elsewhere in the city.
PUNTO ITALIA
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho
Tel: 6258 3510
www.puntoitalia.asia
Punto Italia is an authentic Italian supplier
importing the finest espresso coffee
as well as Italian coffee machines for
professional, home and office use. Real
Italian granita, ice-cream and much more
is now available in Vietnam with the
support of a professional and friendly
service.
VINE CELLAR DOOR
7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 2922
With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a
new array of gourmet foods and a deli
case with imported meats, cheeses and
olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet
Market is a good spot to find the perfect
bottle and the foods that go well with
it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar
accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a
small caf menu from the kitchen of Vine
Restaurant.
THE OASIS
24 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3719 1196
A great place to get all kinds of imported
groceries and home-made foods. All
of the breads and pastas are made in
the in-house kitchen. A great variety of
fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen
selection of wines and a fantastic deli and
cheese case. Free delivery.
KITCHEN PRODUCTS
KITCHEN ART
38/27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Tel: 6680 2770
www.kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies,
cooks and bakers to grow their love and
passion for cooking and baking. Come to
Kitchen Art Store to buy restaurant-grade
tools and ingredients to cook like a chef,
take part in regular demonstrations and
workshops at the Studio, or simply read
and relax at the cookbook cafe corner
while enjoying the peaceful West Lake
view.
PUNTO ITALIA
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: 6258 3510
info@puntoitalia.asia
www.puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee
machines for the workplace or home, spe-
cialising in authentic Italian coffee. Also
sells their own brand coffee in capsules,
ready ground or as the original roasted
mix of beans.
LIQUOR & WINE
BACCHUS CORNER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain, the largest
liquor and wine distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with a decent
selection of wines, pleasantly arrayed and
back lit. Besides their selection of new
and old world wines Helpful staff and free
delivery.
DA LOC
96 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem; 94 Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: 3934 1325
This wine importer and distributor has
over 250 different types of wine in its
portfolio and is doing its part to bring a
culture of fine wine to Hanoi. The main
office and showroom is on Hai Ba Trung
and an upscale outlet is located within
the grounds of the Mercure Hanoi hotel
on Ly Thoung Kiet.
HANOI GOURMET
1B Ham Long, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3943 1009
Not just a wine shop, the long-running
Hanoi Gourmet specialises in imported
cheeses, meats and artisan breads. After
browsing the mainly French selection of
wines, you can take a look at the deli and
sit down for a light snack.
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a huge food
menu also has a huge for-retail wine list
that is 100 percent focused on fine wines
and liquors from Italy. Owner Hoang has
great knowledge of Italian wine and a
passion to match, which is sure to land
you with the best wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
18 Yen The, Tel: 3747 4889
15a Ngo Van So, Tel: 3943 7226
28 Xuan Dieu, Tel: 3719 8337
#6, Lane 1, Au Co, Tel: 3718 6271
Hanoi Club, 76 Yen Phu, Tel: 3823 8749
The retail face of wine distributor
Celliers dAsia, this small wine shop is
in the French Quarter, adjacent to the
Metropole. The focus here is on quality
and the portfolio ranges from French to
Chilean to the barrage of wines coming
from Down Under. Delivery service
available.
THE WAREHOUSE
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Tel: 0439 287666
www.warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnam's ultimate
premium wine importer, distributor, and
retailer, representing many of the greatest
wines from the best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio mixes the
best of both old and new world wines.
VINE CELLAR DOOR
7 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3719 2922
With a huge wine cellar, a tasting bar, a
new array of gourmet foods and a deli
case with imported meats, cheeses and
olives, Vine Cellar Door Wine & Gourmet
Market is a good spot to find the perfect
bottle and the foods that go well with
it. Also offers glassware, wine & cigar
accessories, espresso, gourmet tea and a
small caf menu from the kitchen of Vine
Restaurant.
MARKETS
CHO HOM
Corner of Pho Hue and Tran Xuan Soan, Hai
Ba Trung
One of the best places in the city to buy
fabrics. Found a tailor, want to make
clothes? Here youll find everything you
need, stuff imported and domestic, silk,
cotton, linen. Also any sewing materials
you might need can be found here.
CHO SINH VIEN
Xuan Thuy and Pham Hung, Cau Giay
The Student Market, across from Hanoi
National University, caters to students.
Mostly durable goods, clothing and
accessories here. As far as style and
size of clothes, selection is a bit limited,
but if you take your time you may find
something worth the trouble. The market,
as well as the food stalls surrounding
it, are open quite late. Prices are also
tailored for the student budget.
DONG XUAN
Dong Xuan, Hoan Kiem
The biggest market of its kind in Hanoi,
Dong Xuan is filled with pretty much any
durable good you can think of: from jeans
to jewelry, from leaf tea to livestock. The
indoor market spills out onto the streets,
which can also serve a good place to get
a meal pretty much any time.
FLOWER MARKET
Au Co, East Side of Street
The name can be a little deceptive, since
its more of a distribution point, where
flowers come in to vendors all over the
city. Of course you can buy directly from
sellers here at a good price, provided
youre up late enoug`h. The other reason
to come is for the pho stands. The market
begins late at night and continues well
past dawn.
MEDICAL
LISTINGS
ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE 099
COSMETICS 099
COUNSELLING 099
COSMETIC SURGERY 099
DENTAL 099
MEDICAL 099
ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE
DR. TRAN HUONG
80 Ngo Nui Truc, Ba Dinh, Tel: 0913 540907
www.drhuong.tk
Dr. Tran Huong is well-known in Hanoi
thanks to his long experience as both a
practitioner of traditional Chinese and
Western medicine. The clinic treats severe
and chronic pain with a variety of drug-
free methods, including acupuncture,
acupressure, cupping and moxibustion.
YAKUSHI CENTER
Lane 28, No 6, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: 3719 1971
enjoy the dental experience. Has an atten-
The centre offers such services as acu-
puncture, massage and traditional Chinese
medicine. One of their specialties is the
hot rock massage. Run by Dr. Thuy, a qual-
ified practitioner, the Yakushi Center has a
clean and relaxing environment and takes
a holistic approach to health, designed to
take care of both body and mind.
COSMETICS
PARKSON
Cnr. Thai Ha & Tay Son, Dong Da
One of the newer malls in the city, Malay-
sian-owned Parkson offers international
name brand cosmetics. For those days
when you feel like treating yourself, do
your shopping in a real mall atmosphere.
TRANG TIEN PLAZA
24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Stop here for everything from moistur-
izer to lipstick before heading upstairs to
continue the shopping trip. Keep in mind,
imported cosmetics dont come cheap.
COUNSELLING
INTERNATIONAL SOS VIETNAM, LTD.
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666
www.internationalsos.com
In addition to emergency healthcare, the
clinic also offers consultations by in-house
specialists, full counselling and psychothera-
py services. Call to make an appointment.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma Road, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748 (24 hours)
www.vietnammedicalpractice.com
Family Medical Practice provides psycho-
therapy and nutrition counselling services
by in-house specialists. For more informa-
tion or to book an appointment, please
call the clinic.
COSMETIC SURGERY
NEW LIFE CLINIC
6 Nguyen Thi Thap, Khu do thi moi Trung Hoa,
Nhan Chinh, Tel: 6261 6166
www.newlifevietnam.comA small clinic
that offers cosmetic dental work, skin
treatments and minor cosmetic surgery.
The on site doctor, Ms. Ha, was trained at
the University of Southern California.
DENTAL
AUSTRALIAN DENTAL CLINIC
3 Nguyen Du, Dong Da. Tel: 3944 5216
www.nhahoaucchau.com
A clinic with modern facilities and interna-
visit wordhanoi.com
for a comprehensive
list of our listings
PHARMACIES 100
SUPPLEMENTS 100
VETS 100
ARTICLES
MEDICAL BUFF 104
tionally trained dentists. The prices here
are more than competitive than the other
international dental clinics in town.
HONG NGOC HOSPITAL
95 Nguyen Truong To, Ba Dinh. Tel: 3716 3972
The dental practice is located on the first
floor of this well-organised health clinic.
The waiting time is short and the doctors
competent.
ONE DENTAL
No 8, Lane 27, Xuan Dieu,Tay Ho, Tel: 3718 6168
Providing quality dentistry in a calm,
relaxing environment where patients can
tive and experienced mixed foreign and
Vietnamese dental team who are there at
all times to assist with any questions or
concerns.
PEACE DENTAL CLINIC
51a Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3715 2286
www.peaceclinic.biz
Established in 2001, it is run by an Ameri-
can dentist named Frederick. The clinic
has a number of dentists trained in such
places as Japan, Denmark and the Czech
Republic so the doctors are also fluent
in many languages.
INTERNATIONAL SOS
1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: 3934 0666
24-hour emergency service with pricey,
but international quality emergency and
routine dental services. This is the place
to go when your wisdom tooth needs
pulling in the middle of the night, or you
fall down and break a tooth. Competent
doctors and fast service.
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center,
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi
Tel: 3710 0555, www.westcoastinternational
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic
is composed of dental professionals who
share a vision to deliver modern, high-
level dental services throughout Vietnam.
From the waiting room to the chair, the
clinic is designed to provide the highest
quality technology, comfort and after-
service care to patients.
MEDICAL
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: 3843 0748
www.vietnammedicalpractice.com
On the little street directly below Kim Ma,
with all sorts of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT. A Medium-sized
practice with both Vietnamese and interna-
tional doctors, but they are used to treating
expats. Also a 24-hour emergency service.
FMP PEDIATRIC UNIT
Van Phuc Compound, 298 D Kim Ma Road, Ba
Dinh. Tel: 3726 5222
fmpkidshanoi@vietnammedicalpractice.com
At the new Pediatric Unit of the Family
Medical Practice Hanoi, services include
routine newborn and well-child check-ups,
updated immunizations and vaccinations,
out-patient treatment and follow-up. FMPs
pediatric specialists provide professional
consultancy for every milestone in your
childs life, from infancy to adolescence.
May 2012 Word | 99
medical buff
WORLD SMOKING DAY
WORLD SMOKING DAY IS HELD
on May 31 each year and draws
attention to the perils of smoking
addiction. Nicotine dependence is
an addiction to tobacco products
caused by the drug nicotine. Smoke
from cigarettes, cigars and pipes
contains thousands of chemicals,
including nicotine. Smokeless
tobacco also contains nicotine.
Nicotine dependence means you
can't stop using the substance,
even though it's causing you harm.
Nicotine produces physical and
mood-altering effects in your brain
that are temporarily pleasing. These
effects spur your continued use of
tobacco and lead to dependence.
At the same time, quitting tobacco
use causes withdrawal symptoms,
including irritability and anxiety.
Nicotine dependence brings a
host of health problems. While it's
the nicotine in tobacco that keeps
you hooked, the toxic effects come
mainly from other substances in
tobacco. Smokers have significantly
higher rates of heart disease,
strokes and cancer.
Nicotine is the chemical in
tobacco that keeps you smoking.
It can be as addictive as cocaine.
It increases the release of brain
chemicals called neurotransmitters,
which help regulate mood
and behavior. One of these
neurotransmitters is dopamine,
which makes you feel good. Getting
that dopamine boost is part of the
addiction process.
Smoking harms almost every
organ of your body. More than half
the people who keep smoking will
die because of it. The negative
100 | Word May 2012
health effects include:
LUNG CANCER AND OTHER
LUNG DISEASES
Smoking is the cause of nearly nine
out of ten lung cancer cases, as
well as other lung diseases, such as
emphysema and chronic bronchitis.
Smoking also makes asthma worse.
HEART AND CIRCULATORY
SYSTEM PROBLEMS
Smoking increases your risk of
dying of cardiovascular disease,
including heart attacks and strokes.
Smoking 15 cigarettes a day
doubles your heart attack risk.
However, stopping smoking reduces
your risk of having a heart attack
by 50 percent in the first year.
OTHER CANCERS
Smoking is a major cause of
cancers of the esophagus, larynx,
throat (pharynx) and mouth and
also is related to cancer of the
bladder, pancreas, kidney, cervix,
stomach, and some leukemias.
INFERTILITY AND IMPOTENCE
Smoking increases the risk of
infertility in women and the chance
of impotence in men.
PREGNANCY AND
NEWBORN COMPLICATIONS
Mothers who smoke while pregnant
face a higher risk of miscarriage,
preterm delivery, decreased birth
weight and sudden infant death
syndrome (SIDS) in their newborn.
RISKS TO YOUR FAMILY
Spouses and partners of smokers
have a higher risk of lung cancer
and heart disease, compared with
people who don't live with a smoker.
If you smoke, your children will be
more prone to sudden infant death
syndrome, asthma, ear infections
and colds.
BENEFITS OF QUITTING
No matter what your age, your
health will benefit if you stop
smoking. Just 20 minutes after
your last cigarette, your heart rate
goes down. Twelve hours later,
levels of carbon monoxide, a toxic
gas, in your blood return to normal.
Your lung function improves and
your circulation starts to get better
within three months. After a year,
your risk of having a heart attack
drops by half. And after five to 15
years, your stroke risk will be the
same as that of a nonsmoker.
HELP IS AVAILABLE!
Several medications, including
nicotine replacement therapy
and non-nicotine medications
are effective in treating nicotine
dependence. Any of these
medications, combined with
behavioral changes, can double
your chances of quitting.
The best way to prevent tobacco
dependence is to not smoke
in the first place. Most people
begin smoking during childhood
or adolescence. The best way to
prevent your children from smoking
is to not smoke yourself.
Dr WB McNaull MB ChB MPhil
(Cambridge) DTM&H FRSTM
(London) is the medical director of
FMP, Hanoi
FRENCH HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da. Tel: 3577 1100
This was the first international hospital
Ting Vit
created in Hanoi, and still viewed by
some as the gold standard for medical
treatment. Offers everything from
standard medical and preventative care to
surgical procedures. Full-service hospital
that has both doctors and staff that speak
good French and English.
INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
1 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho. Tel: 3934 0666
Well-known medical clinic also known for
its quality emergency services. Doctors
and consultants also provide a range of
services from standard GP-style check-ups
through to vaccinations, paediatrics and
specialist care.
PHARMACIES NN TNG GIA NH / NGI DT NHNG C M
H CLINIC
HNH ANH: AARON JOEL SANTOS
24T 1 Hoang Dao Thuy, Cau Giay. Tel: 6251 2835
A clinic with a very large pharmacy that
can fill pretty much any prescription you
get in Hanoi. They also offer minor medi-
cal consultations.
NHA THUA VINH PHUC
625 Hoang Hoa Tham, Ba Dinh
While it appears to be your basic street
pharmacy, this small shop front stocks
some hard-to-find medicine.
SUPPLEMENTS
AMEVITA SUPPLEMENTS
Tel: 3759 2515. www.amevita.com.vn
Sells high quality vitamins and
supplements imported from the USA
including multivitamins, probiotics, joint
care, herbals, fitness and anti-aging
products. Free delivery in Hanoi and Ho
Chi Minh City. Available online and at
select retailers.
ULTIMATE NUTRITION
Hotline: 0917 295091. www.allsportvietnam.com
Protein supplements, high quality
vitamins, testosterone, muscle gain and
fat loss supplements for those looking for
professional sports nutrition to help their
exercise or training regime. Call the hotline
for free delivery to your home or office.
VETS
ANIMAL CARE
16 ngo 424 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho
Tel: 2246 1946 / 0978 776099
www.phongkhamthuy.com
Locally-run clinic specialising in treating
cats and dogs as well as providing a range
of pet-care accessories, from animal food
to clothing, toys and much more.
ASIAN VETERINARY & LIVESTOCK
SERVICES (ASVELIS)
98 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho. Tel: 3178 2779
www.asvelis.com
English, French and Vietnamese-speaking
veterinarian providing a range of medical
services as well as grooming, board-
ing and certification for pet import and
export. Also sells a range of pets toys as
well as other products.
DR. BAO, MOBILE VETERINARIAN
Tel: 0903 223217, vetdoctorvn@yahoo.com
On-call, English-speaking veterinarian who
does the rounds in Hanoi. Well-respected,
knowledgeable and, according to the
feedback, very funny.
INTERNATIONAL LABORATORY &
VETERINARY SERVICES
31 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho District. Tel: 3719 9994
www.vetsinvietnam.com
A Vietnamese-owned small-animal
veterinary clinic with English-speaking
vets. Offers a range of healthcare and
laboratory services as well as a selection
of products for all animal needs. Products
can be ordered online via their website.
May 2012 Word | 101
 NEN TANG GIA NH
Hoa Le quay ngc lai thi gian e lan theo dau ve lch s gia nh cua mot trong nhng

M
quan ca phe c a chuong nhat cua Ha Noi. Anh bi Aaron Joel Santos

t lan gio nhe mua he nhau trong thi gian chin tranh hay nhng ma ng ni va b anh a lai ca cai
lua vao ca mang theo luc nn kinh t t nc co nhiu bin quan nay va nhng phng phap pha
mui hng thm nc cua ng, nhng u khng thanh cng. Co ch, ca ph va phuc vu khach hang.
nhng hat ca ph mi nhng luc moi th chung ti lam nn c
rang. Mt gi tra tai ca ph Thai va quan u tr thanh con s khng sau mt m Tip La vo L
ang cht kn khach hang. Nu quan ca b bom cua gic di vao, anh giai thch. rang ca ph, gia nh ti vn dung
ph nay la mt con ngi, th no se la mt Chung ti lai phai bt u lai t u. bp cui thay v dung ga, anh giai thch.
cu ng tui ngoai by mi, vi nu ci Lch s cua ca ph Thai quay ngc tr Nhng chic phin ca ph nha ti dung
m ap, hiu khach, va mt lan da nhum lai nhng nm cui cua thp nin 1920 cung khng phai la loai ln co th loc
mau ca ph. Thc s la nh vy, moi th khi ng ni cua anh Tnh ri khoi lang ti mt hay hai cn ca ph mt ln. Phin
trong quan u c phu mt mau nu qu cua mnh Hng Yn ln Ha Ni y nho thi, mi ln ch pha c
sm; bc tng, nhng chic gh g nho, tm vic. Chang trai 17 tui tn la n khoang ba ly.
nhng chic ban vung, chic cc bng may mn c mt ngi ban day cho Anh Tnh khng mun thay i cach
gm, va n ca nhng chic tha ca ph cach pha ca ph va bt u cng vic cua rang, pha ca ph theo hng hin ai hn
nho xu na y la mt trong nhng mt ngi ban ca ph rong. nh may moc. Co ngi noi rng cach
quan ca ph lu i nht Ha Ni. Hang sang, anh n i b doc cac con lam truyn thng nay phc tap va mt
Mt thanh nin ngoai hai mi tui ph ban ca ph. Trang b theo mnh thi gian, nhng ti lai ngh truyn thng
bc vao. Thoat nhn cung bit anh la mt chic bnh gi nong, mt vai cai cc va kinh nghim lun co nhng gia tr
khach hang rut y. Anh thn quen va nhng chic banh my kep nhn, anh ring. Khach hang thch ca ph cua chung
n mc khi bc vao quan la ti ngay rao ln thu hut nhng khach hang, ti, v th rt ang tip tuc phng
mt chic ban goc khut pha trong, co chu yu la gii tri thc. Bui chiu trn phap c truyn o.
le anh a ngi y v s ln ri. Ngi ng v nha, anh lai dng lai tai trc Tai quan ca ph Thai ch mt loai ca
thanh nin khng cn goi ung, mt ca nha nhng v khach o mang ph c phuc vu vi ba la chon: co sa
tach ca ph en khng ng a t ng nhng chic cc a ung ht cua mnh v. c, vi ng hay la ca ph en. Ca ph
c mang ti. Anh chm iu thuc, Va t mt ganh hang rong o, ca ph u th c trn ln t ba loai mua t
rt mt hi, ri t t a cc ca ph ln a dn dn tr nn mt loai hnh kinh in Bin, Ngh An pha Bc, va Bun
ung. Mt cam giac tht yn bnh va thn doanh cua ca gia nh. u nhng nm M Thut Ty Nguyn. S d nh vy
quen. Mnh nghin ca ph y ri, 1940, ng n m quan ca ph u tin, la v mi vung u co mt loai ca ph rt
anh noi, tha nhn rng anh ti y mi ch vi mt vai cai ban va gh g. Trai ngon, and Tnh cho bit.
ngay hai ln, ngay nao cung n trong qua nhng giai oan phai tam dng vic Ca ph Thai m va mt nh nhung.
sut by nm qua. bun ban do lnh cm cua chnh quyn, No khng ng qua, cung khng chua qua.
ca ph Thai c gn gi cho ti ngay nay No la s kt hp cua ca hai v o, nhng
Bu Vt Gia nh nh ng ni n, con trai ng tn la Thai, mc nhe hn, va phai. Ca ph n
Anh Nguyn Vn Tnh la mt ng chu va cu chau ni Tnh. gian nhng ngon v theo anh Tnh, no hoan
thn thin. Anh ai din cho ba th h cua Ti tin y la duyn s, anh Tnh noi. toan 100 phn trm la ca ph.
gia nh mnh lam chu quan ca ph Thai. Anh tng lam giao vin day hoa cp hai, Khi c hoi liu quan co thay i
Kinh t gia nh bin ng rt nhiu sau o i Ba Lan gn ba nm tm kim tr nn hin ai hn vi nhiu loai ca ph
trong nhng thp ky qua, anh noi. Mi c hi lam n va cui cung lai tr lai ngh co cac hng v khac nhau hay khng,
ln gia nh mnh hoan toan trng tay, ca ph hin nay. Khng co g chc chn cu tra li cua anh rt ro rang la khng.
moi ngi u quay lai ngh ca ph. la chung ti co th duy tr c vic kinh Anh giai thch vi mt nu ci: Khi
Chnh ca ph lai vc lai c kinh t cho doanh nay trong sut 70 nm qua. mnh co mt th g khac vi xu th chung
gia nh. Anh Tnh yu ca ph. Anh yu cng cua moi ngi th o lun la mt iu
Anh Tnh nh co t nht bn ln gia nh vic la chon c nhng hat ca ph thu v, phai khng?
anh a phai i mt vi hai ban tay trng. ngon, rang va pha ca ph. Ro rang la anh Ca ph Thai s 27 ph Triu Vit Vng,
Ho a xoay x vi rt nhiu ngh khac rt t hao c tha hng truyn thng Hai Ba Trng.

May 2012 Word | 103

NGI DET NHNG C M

M
Viet bi Debbie Clare Anh bi Aaron Joel Santos

anh giy do mau o bay s cu tai lc hay sc khoe. Nhiu ngi ti nn a i sang ni khac.
php phi chc tut khoi n cu t, mt vai ngi khac lai co Nhng ng c la i , cu n g co m t s l i
chic kep trn si dy thep li cu thc t nh mong ban c mt yu c u vi t s la m ba c nga c nhin n
nho nh mt mu dy phi manh t. ni chu n g se c ghi nh trong lo n g
qun ao trn u chung ti khi lan gio nhe Nhng mu s vit sn xp cao trn ba c Tu n .
c thi qua mt cach v tnh. Pha nga t goc ban c phu bng mt manh vai sa- Mt ngi phu n tre n va noi vi
cui con ng ng Thai Mai, nhng tanh mau o cua bac Tun. S mau xanh, ti rng c ta cho mt gia nh Hang
con c nhi, banh tm H Ty c trng vang va o, vi nhng dong ch nm ao vay rt nhiu, bac noi. Bac ngh c
bay nh nhng ca hang trang sc, ch in sn, va gn nh vy goi s chu y cua y se nh ti vit mt t s co th ly
tm ng ti da day nhng ngi i qua, ban khi co mt cn gio ua nghch lua lai c tin, nhng thay vao o, c y bao
rt nhiu trong s o ang trn mt oan qua. Bac con co mt chng khac la nhng ti vit hai li c ra. Mt la cho s giau co
hanh hng ngn ti Phu Ty H pha quyn s ghi hang nghn tn ngi a va hoa bnh cua gia nh cua c, va t kia
trc. Doc bn he ng la mt day nhng c dch ra ch nm. la mong cho gia nh mang n o tai qua
gian vai bat xiu veo, gi tr thanh cn Bc tip theo cua vic vit s la bac nan khoi va lam n thun li. Mt cach
phong lam vic ngoai tri; mi gian nho phai lng nghe thng tin c ban cua khach lam rt nhn ao giai quyt vn . Bac
o co mt chic ban nho, trn co mt chic hang; tn, ngay thang nm sinh, tui m, vn nh mai.
but bi, mt chic but lng, va mt lo mc qu quan, va a ch nha na. Trn con ng dn vao phu, cac quy
ch i c s dung. a ch nha la rt quan trong, bac giai hang u bay ban dng ln ngi m.
Tay ao sn cao, chic knh eo tr trn thch. Thn linh phai bit a ch chnh Choco Pie, the hng, tin m phu, va
sng mui, bac Giang Phi Tun ang vit xac th mi phu h c ung gia chu o. Oreos. y la mt trong nhng con ph
nt nhng net ch cui cung bng mc Sau khi a thu thp u thng tin, bac yn tnh nht thanh ph; rt t t i qua,
nc trn mt manh giy ln. Tun gp t s lai, cho vao trong mt phn ln nhng ngi ban hang y
Trc y, cng vic nay n gian chic phong b dai a lam sn, khin ta ang ngu, con cai ho c chi thoai mai
hn, bac noi, gi nguyn tay vit khng gi nh v nhng hom bo th vi ch dn trn ng. S bnh yn cua goc ph nay,
run, mt khng chp, gng mt bac biu trong nc hay quc t. Bac Tun cung cam giac yn lng la thng, la mt phan
l mt s rt tp trung. hng dn khach hang nhng ni trong anh cua tnh cach bac Tun va cach bac
Ngay trc ngi ta ch c co nha, co phu ho cn t s, tuy thuc vao li khn tip cn trong cng vic.
t, nhng gi nhng li cu tr nn phc vit trong s am bao nhng ni dung y khng phai la cng vic thch hp
tap hn, cuc sng cua chung ta tr nn trong s n c vi ngi cn nhn. cho nhng ngi tre tui, ngi tre nn
phc tap hn, va con ngi mun nhiu Phong b s sau o c t trn ban th lam nhng vic nng ng. Ngh nay tt
th hn. vi mt chut hoa qua hay cung, va nht la nn ngi ln tui lam v ho co
Bac Tun a lam ngh vit s trong sut ngay trc khi hng tan ht, nhng t s th tp luyn tr nn cn bng tt hn.
by nm qua; mt cng vic co th c o c t i. Vi cng vic nay, bac Tun phai nghe
goi tn la hoa sy, dch gia hay ngi vit nhng li ha thm kn, nhng b mt va
th phap. Cng vic nay oi hoi bac dch Nhng li khn c bit ca nhng tit l, nhng vi giong noi m
nhng ch ma khach hang mun va cn Trc khi vit s trc cng Phu va ro rang bac khng nh rng nhng
sang ch nm ngn ng chnh thc u Ty H, bac Tun cung a lam Chua thng tin o la b mt; ch c bit gia
tin cua ting Vit. Ln ln trong mt gia Hng nm trong day nui Hng Tch. bac, v khach hang va th gii tm linh.
nh lam ngh thy thuc, thy cung va Bac nh lai mt li yu cu vit s rt Vic thu v nht cua ngh nay la tri
thy giao, bac Tun hoc vit ch nay t ang nh cua mt phu n co chng thc ma bac co th giup c nhiu ngi
thua nho. y khng phai la mt th ban ngoai tnh. khac, bac Tin ci thoa man nhng
co th hoc c trng, bac noi. y la C y mun vit mt t s cu cho khim tn. Ngay cang t ngi i theo
th kin thc c truyn lai t gia nh. tai nan se xay ra vi ngi phu n th con ng vit s nay; nhiu ngi tre
Trc khi bt u vit s cho khach ba kia, bac Tun nh lai, nhng bac a tui cung n y va chung khng bit s
hang, bac phai chon c ung s theo khuyn c ta rng o khng phai la cach la cai g, nhng min la ngi ta con cung
nhu cu. nn lam, chung ta khng nn mang theo bai, bac vn duy tr c cng vic cua
Bac co khoang 300 loai s, mi loai u nhng thu hn, him khch ti ni ca mnh, va o la tt ca nhng g chung ta co
khac nhau; co s cu duyn, cu danh, co Pht. C y a khng thch li khuyn cua th hi vong ma thi.

104 | Word May 2012

Ho Chi Minh City To mark The Queens Diamond Jubilee
in early June and 60 years of diplomatic
THIS WOMAN'S WORK
relations between the UK and Vietnam,
we speak to British Consul General
Douglas Barnes about these historic
moments. Photo by Quinn Ryan Mattingly
A
s Consul-General, what is your
exact role in Vietnam? Together
with the British Embassy, what do
you hope to achieve in the near
future?
The British Embassy and the British
Consulate General are tasked with taking
forward all Her Majestys Government
objectives in Vietnam. We have an important
responsibility to look after British citizens
whom may get into trouble while in Vietnam.
In the short-term I hope to raise the profile of
the Consulate General in the city, particularly
among the British community, be it those
who reside and work here as well as those
visiting from the UK. But my medium to
long-term objective is to build on the stronger
links with Vietnamese stakeholders including
government and business. I would like to see
the role and purpose of the British Consulate
General being recognised across other
provinces in the South of Vietnam beyond Ho
Chi Minh City.
What services does the consulate offer to
British citizens who find themselves in
troubled situations in Vietnam? How do
TALKING SHOP you resolve difficulties with British citizens
IN HER
who are creating problems during their stay
in this country?
Our assistance can include issuing emergency
travel documents, help to those who have
suffered serious sexual or physical assault,
are victims of crimes, ill or in hospital, or
contacting British nationals within 24 hours of
MAJESTYS
being told of their detention; and help in cases
such as child abductions, death of a relative in
Vietnam, missing people and kidnapping.
We must respect the Vietnamese
systems and legal process just as we expect
Vietnamese citizens to respect the UKs laws
and legal processes when in the UK. For
SERVICE
those who find themselves in trouble with the
local law, we cannot offer legal advice but we
are able to provide a list of lawyers without
recommending an individual law firm.
What we cannot do is investigate a crime,
pay an individual's bills, make arrangements
to find work or accommodation, get involved
in disputes, release an individual from prison
106 | Word May 2012
or prevent the Vietnamese authorities from
exercising the law and so interfere in criminal
or civil court proceedings.
Many British citizens feel disconnected
from the services provided by the
consulate and the other British
organisations based in Vietnam. How do
you think this can be resolved?
I hope most British nationals living in
Vietnam feel more connected than you
suggest. Nevertheless, I do accept the fact that
this issue has been raised, meaning that there
must be some concerns among our nationals
in Vietnam.
At the same time, it is important for our
consular team to have knowledge of all
British nationals who are living or working
in Vietnam. We are not seeking to check
up on them, simply to be aware of their
existence here in the event of a crisis. All the
British organisations based in Vietnam work
together as one team to deliver support
to the Vietnamese and British nationals.
Similarly, we work very closely with the
British Business Group Vietnam (BBGV) in
support of British businesses in Vietnam and
new businesses that are looking to commence
doing business here.
Youre also the director of UK Trade &
Investment in Vietnam. What are the main
sectors for trade and investment between
Vietnam & the UK? What areas are you
hoping to promote and what advice would
you give for anyone looking to invest here?
In 2010 the UK Vietnam Strategic Partnership
Agreement was signed by both our
governments. This agreement is particularly
significant because it is the first time in the
history of bilateral trading between our two
countries that our relationship had been
endorsed and formalised in such a positive
and high profile way.
Millions of Vietnamese are already
benefitting from financial services provided
by UK companies such as Prudential, HSBC
and Standard Chartered Bank. British
energy companies are investing in the oil
and gas sector. British retailers are starting
to look at Vietnam, not just as a centre of
production, but as an exciting new market
in its own right.
The software sector has also seen major
developments. Much of the software we
use in the NHS and UK education is written
in Vietnam. Harvey Nash is currently
developing 4G mobile phone software
technology in Vietnam. Architectural
companies are also outsourcing design to
companies employing Vietnams young,
IT savvy, increasingly English-speaking
population.
In healthcare, another area of UK strength,
Oxford University is working at the cutting
edge of research with the Hospital for
Tropical Diseases in Ho Chi Minh on dengue
fever, malaria and typhoid.
For prospective UK investors looking
at Vietnam, my advice would be that they
need to have patience, perseverance and a
long-term strategy in place. This is essential
because this is not a market where you can
achieve short-term gains quickly. But I would
also say that a good local partner can be a
major benefit in helping UK companies to
navigate their way through the processes to
establish and expand their business here.
We are here to help UK companies succeed
in Vietnam, and would encourage them to get
in touch to see what support we can provide.
It often seems that the promotion of British
culture in Vietnam is given short thrift. Is
this really the case? And how important is it
to promote British culture to the world?
The British Council promotes UK arts
and creative entrepreneurship worldwide
including here in Vietnam. The UK
engagement in education and English
language are also big business and at times
can seem to dwarf the cultural programmes.
However, the UK has a long tradition of
innovation in the arts and UK creativity
attracts large audiences globally.
Young Vietnamese are very interested in
contemporary UK fashion, design and music.
Currently in the city there is the Everything
Forever Now sustainable design exhibition
showing at the HCMC Exhibition House. In
April at both the Hue Festival and the Hanoi
Sound Stuff Festival there was an electronic
music performance by Tim Exile. Last year
the English National Ballet graced both Opera
Houses showcasing the UKs long-standing
devotion to ballet but through modern
interpretations.
Perhaps the issue is that there is a lack
of information within the UK national
community in Vietnam about the events and
activities that are being done, particularly by
the British Council.
The BBGV together with the British Consulate
and The British Embassy are organising a huge
outdoor event on Jun. 3 to celebrate The Queens
Diamond Jubilee. For more information on the
event go to page 11
May 2012 Word | 107

This Woman's Work
When volunteering wasnt enough, Hillary Brown took on the
challenge of starting her own charity. Words by Lyra Dacio.
"I
never was a good expat wife,
Hillary Brown, co-founder and
executive director of Helping
Orphans Worldwide, says matter-of-
factly. She didnt want to be a conventional
stay-at-home spouse. In the 14 years shes
been globetrotting wherever her husbands
work takes her, from Eastern Europe and
Israel to Southeast Asia, she always found
an orphanage to volunteer at.
But when she saw firsthand the
negligence, malpractice and even
108 | Word May 2012
CHARITY CORNER
corruption of some charitable organisations
she decided to stop volunteering altogether.
In 2007, the owner of the company her
husband was working for trusted her with
funds to start her own organisation.
However, prior to setting up her own
charity, Hillary needed to learn the
operation behind it so she got in touch
with Father Shay Cullen. Fr Shay has more
than 30 years of experience working with
the Peoples Recovery Empowerment
and Development Assistance Inc.
(PREDA) Foundation (www.preda.org)
in the Philippines, whose main goal is
to save children from abuse, prison and
exploitation. He urged Hillary to use her
passion and ability to make a change in
places where there is no Fr Shay.
Why Vietnam?
An Irish friend working and living here
told her that Vietnam may be the right
place. I went to check it out and was
hooked on the culture, the children, the
elderly and the people in need, Hillary
explains.
And so, in 2008, Helping Orphans
Worldwide (HOW) began its work in
Vietnam. I was also in love with the way
people who could help and had nothing
really wanted to help; and those who had
less, gave more, she adds.
In 2010, HOW, in conjunction with the
Starfish Program from the Philippines,
helped several children receive everything
from heart surgery, cleft palate and jaw
surgery to omphalocele surgery, plus much
more.
Another priority of the Starfish Program
and the centerpiece of HOWs operations
is Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) Awareness.
When asked why they focus on this rare
genetic skin disease, Hillary explains that
there is a lot going on about EB all over
the world. Lots of research is being done, children and is seeking partnerships with
and in Vietnam there are prevalent cases in
the north. However, cases in the south are
misdiagnosed.
Those afflicted with this disorder have
delicate skin that can easily break. Some
cant even bear to wear clothes as the
mildest friction can rip their skin. Severe
forms can lead to disfigurement, disability,
carcinoma and even death when left
untreated.
14-year-old Huy suffers from EB and
needs proper wound care daily. He wants
to become a monk and to find a cure for
this disease so that other children wont
have to go through this when asked about
his dream.
Huy is only one of many children with
EB in southern Vietnam. We dont know if
there are more because doctors in Vietnam
are not yet well-informed to diagnose
it. The sad thing is that this is a genetic
disorder meaning if a family has a child
with EB, the other children in the family can
have this disease as well, Hillary explains.
HOW is working to provide wound
care treatment at an affordable price to
pharmacies to provide the medicines
needed. It costs VND10.5 million to
diagnose which type of EB a patient is
afflicted with and these tests must be sent
to France or Australia as none are available
in Vietnam. An additional VND5.25 million
a month is needed for wound treatment.
They are also in the process of setting up
support groups among families dealing
with EB to help one another.
Seeing it Through
In addition to its main goal, the
organisation also supports the Educational
Center for Disabled Children in District
4, which currently cares for and provides
vocational training for 86 disabled children.
They have been providing the basic needs
of the centre and are becoming involved in
its arts and recreational activities.
However, Hillary is fully aware that the
current projects require continuous love,
care, guidance and funding before they can
become self sustaining.
[Vietnam] feels like home to me, and I
find that I am able to somehow get through
the muck to find help for the children, she
says. The projects have gotten to a point
where I feel that we need to see things
through and not do things halfway.
To volunteer, donate or learn more about
Helping Orphans Worldwide, visit www.
helpinghow.com
May 2012 Word | 109
The Final Say I
ts seven oclock on a Monday night on
Tong Duy Tan, known locally as Food
Street. Its peak dining hour and the
TALKING RUBBISH / PHOTO OF THE MONTH / THE LAST CALL rubbish collector Im following blends
almost perfectly into the background of the
noise and the chaos, nearly camouflaged in
her familiar green vest and blue hard hat.
The clang of her bell rings out as she pushes
the old, steel cart down the crowded street
signaling hurried street food stall employees
to come running with buckets full of rubbish
THE FINAL SAY to dump into the cart.
TALKING
Rubbish is everywhere in Hanoi quite
literally everywhere. Great heaps of it are
found all over the city, and with that comes
great heaps of rubbish collectors, picking up
the wrappers, bags and cans weve long since
tossed away without another thought.
Vietnam remains one of the worlds fastest
growing economies, and with rapid growth
RUBBISH
and consumption comes more rubbish. What
goes in must come out.
Responsible for solid waste collection,
transportation, treatment and disposal, The
Urban Environment Company (URENCO)
is one of Vietnams leading companies
in the waste treatment field. Theyre also
responsible for the green-vested collectors
seen across the city. According to a URENCO
report, 3,500 tons of domestic waste,
1,000 tons of construction waste, 300 tons
of industrial waste and between five to
seven tons of medical waste is collected in
Its dirty, it smells, and theres a lot of it about. Hanoi on a daily basis. The Czech Republic
Development Cooperation reports that
Natalie Krebs follows a trail of trash to nd out Vietnam in total produces over 15 million
tons of waste a year with most concentrated
what happens to the litter that we fritter in urban areas, which contain only 24 percent
of the population producing over 50 percent
of the countrys municipal waste.
Almost Full
The rubbish collector on Food Street, who
declined to give her name, has been an
employee of URENCO for 22 years. Her
route changes every day, and shes generally
given a small area to cover. Tonight its up
and down Food Street. Her shift goes from
7pm until 2am and she works with another
employee. Together they haul piles of
discarded napkins, vegetables and mystery
meats to the local pick-up port several metres
away on Phung Hung to be collected by a
truck and hauled off to the Nam Son landfill.
Hanoi has two major landfills, Nam Son in
Soc Son District, which receives the majority
of Hanois waste, and Xuan Son in Son Tay.
The Japan International Co-Operation Agency
PHOTO BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY
has worked with URENCO to address some
of Hanois waste management issues, and
according to them, Hanois landfills will be
full sometime next year. If more attention is
not given to the issue then there will be no
solution for waste disposal.
They also report that about 30 percent of
rubbish in Hanoi is improperly disposed
110 | Word May 2012
of, either lying uncollected on streets, burnt
on the fly or illegally dumped in lakes and
ponds. This amount could grow rapidly if
waste management is not properly addressed.
It also hasnt helped that the opening of a
large waste disposal plant in Bac Son, which
would have been equipped to handle 2,000
tons of waste a day turning about 90 percent
into fertiliser or recycled materials, has been
delayed.
Recycle, Recycle, Recycle
However, recycling is common in Vietnam.
Households and businesses regularly
sort recyclables to be collected by waste
pickers. The majority of recycling is done
somewhat informally by waste scavengers
who earn their income by then selling the
discarded materials to one of the recycling
plants located across the city. Some go
from household to business, while some
go through the streets with carts looking
for recyclables in the street. Some, mostly
struggling farmers, work directly at the
Nam Son landfill site looking for high value
recyclables like glass or plastic bottles and
aluminum.
Back on Food Street, the URENCO
employee carefully sorts through each load of
rubbish dumped into her cart. She pulls out
plastic bottles, cans and cardboard from the
piles in her cart, putting them into one of the
plastic bags hanging from the side of her cart.
The collection of recyclables is also common
for rubbish collectors. Its something thats
not part of the job, but its a way for them to
earn a little extra income on the side.
According to the Czech Republic
Development Corporation, this informal
recycling practice counts for 22 percent of
recycling, and several industries, such as
local artisans and workers at craft villages,
recycle up to 80 percent of their waste.
However, recycling still has a long way to go
in Vietnam, as the Corporation also reports
that it is estimated that as much as 32 percent
of the waste in waste deposit sites could be
recycled.
A Cleaner Future?
Still, Vietnam is moving slowly towards
reducing and dealing with its waste. In
late 2009, a long-term waste management
strategy was approved that included a plan
for building a solid waste recycling centre in
every city, collecting and treating 100 percent
of solid waste from urban areas and reducing
the use of plastic bags in supermarkets and
commercial centres by 2025.
Yet with the amount of issues facing
Vietnams waste management industry
today, whether these goals will be achievable
in 13 years remains to be seen. Until waste
practices change drastically in Hanoi, it seems
the URENCO employee on Food Street still
has plenty of work cut out for her.
May 2012 Word | 111
 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Street Index We s t L ake Truc ra Ph
o

N H NIEN
n Vu

T
Bach Ng Duc

CENTRAL HANOI
Pha uye C

Re
n K hin

Long

Ph
Lake m

Bac

o
ha

d
Hon
g T c Nhu

An
h
THA
For a more detailed map of
A Tran

Xa
Vu hai

Ri
Dung
Chau
West Lake please see p. 96 Ngu
yen

Nguyen Bieu

ve
QUAN THANH Tru

Hang
ong
BIEN

r
Dang Tat

Dang Tat
E
19/2 - E4 Hang Giay - C6 Nguyen Huu Huan - C6, D6 Y KHU QU To YE G
THU THAM N LON

Dang
Au Trieu - D4, E4 Hang Giay - B5 A

n
Cua
Nguyen Khac Can - F7
G HOA CAU

Ich
PH

Bu
Bach Dang - E7 Hang Hanh - D5, D6 Nguyen Khac Nhu - A4, A5 AN ai

Than
U

N
HO

uy
Nh

nH
Bao Khanh - D5, D6 Hang Hom - D5 Nguyen Khuyen - E2, E3

uong
PHAN e
Ho

Pha
Bat Dan - C4 Hang Khay - E6

ng
Nguyen Sieu - C6
DINH

Ba

Ha
PHUNG T HANH

h Chan

an
Ba Trieu - E6, F5, F6 Hang Khoai - B5, B6 Nguyen Thai Hoc - D1, D2,

Hung V
Hoan
Bat Su - C5 Hang Luoc - B5, C5 D3, E4

Ng.
Bich Cau - E1 Hang Ma - C5 Nguyen Thien Thuat - B5, B6

Ng. Can

Han
Cao Ba Quat - D2, D3 Hang Mam - C6, C7 Nguyen Tri Phuong - A4, B3,
Bach Th ao Cau

ng
B

Thi
ai

Dinh

g
Cao Thang - B6 Hang Manh - D5 C3, D3 H. Van Kho

Ngoc

Phung Hu
Kiem

en
Cat Linh - D1, E1, E2 Hang Ngang - C5, C6 Nguyen Truong To - A4, A5 P ar k Thu Gam ha
ng
oT

G ia
g

Th
Cau Chuong Duong - C7 Hang Non - D5 Nguyen Van To - D4, D5 Ha Han Ca

uat

TR
Cau Dong - B5 Hang Quat - D5 Nha Chung - E5, E6

Ha
g
Don

AN
Hang Cot
anh Ha

ng
Cau Go - D6 Hang Ruoi - B5, C5 Nha Tho - D5 Cau D o n gTh X u an

Do
Hung
Doc Lap

NH
Cau Long Bien - A6, A7, B6 Hang Than - A5, B5

ng
Ong Ich Khiem - C2, D2 Marke t

H. Ruoi Lu

AT
DIEU
Cha Ca - C5 Hang Thiec - C5, D5

Dao
Pham Hong Thai - A4, A5 hieu ao

oc
Hang C C. G NG

Phuong

Phu
DUO

Hang Giay
Chan Cam - D5 Hang Thung - D7

DU
ieu

Phung
Pham Ngu Lao - F7 Hang Ma S
Ba D i n h

ai
n G

Ngoc
e
Nguy

c Ta
Hang C
ON

Ch

D. Th
AT
Chau Long - A4 Hang Tre - C7, D7

D
Xua
Pham Su Manh - F7

H. Dong
CHU

uy
Lo Re n a

a
S q uare

Ga
Cho Gao - C6 Hang Trong - D5, D6, E6

n
Phan Boi Chau - E4, F4 Buom M AU

n
Bac
De
C

Ca
Chu Van An - C2, D2 Hang Vai - C5 Hang

a
Tu
Phan Chu Trinh - F7 Hang Vai hinh
H. C

Ha
Cua Bac - A4, B4 Hang Voi - D6 Lan
C
Ong

Luon
Phan Dinh Phung - A2, A3,

May
Hien
Tri

Nguyen
Hang
Cua Dong - C4, C5 Ha Trung - D4, D5

H. N
Thuoc

Han
B3, B4 Cua Ngoc Q uyen

Bat Su

g
HOANG
Cua Nam - E4 Hoa Lo - E5 Dong
DOI CAN

gan
Phan Huy Ich - A4, B4

g Ca
Nam
Dang Dung - A3, B3 Hoang Dieu - B3, C3, D3 LE HONG

Ta
Phan Phu Tien - D2, E2 PHON Hang

Nguyen

g
ao

n
Dang Tat - A3 Hoang Hoa Tham - A1, A2, B1 G Hang Bo

Ich Khiem
Pho An Xa - A5, A6 Bac Hang Mam

Thanh B
Bat Dan

Han
Dang Thai Than - F7 Hoang Van Thu - B2, B3

Luon

Dinh Liet
Pho Duc Chinh - A4, A5

Hang Be

Han
H. Thiec

Huu
Dao Duy Tu - C6 Hoe Nhai - A5, B4, B5

g D
Dieu
Phuc Tan - B6, C7, D7 Ph

g
Vuong
Gia Ngu

gT
Da Tuong - F5 Hoi Vu - D5, E4 Tay uc
Son uat

AN

Ly

Duo
Phu Doan - D5, E5

ao
Ong

ao
Ta

re
gQ

Van
Dien Bien Phu - C3, D3, Ho Van Chuong - F2 Hang N g
Han n

Khuc H
Phung Hung - B4, C4, D4 Ph on hun
o

Hang
N
H. T

ng
Hung
D4, E4 Hung Vuong - A2, B2, C2, D2 Cau Go
ai

Ha
CHU VA
Quang Trung - E5, F5 TRAN

Hang
DI
Thai

Han
gG

Can
Dinh Le - E6 Khuc Hao - C3, D2, D3

Huan
PHU

ng
Yen
uc

EN
NGU n

Hung
Quan Su - D5, E4, E5, F4 Ng. Van To

Ba
YEN Ha Hanh

gM
Ho
Dinh Liet - C6, D6 Lan Ong - C5
Lenin
i D

ch
Phung
Quan Thanh - A2, A3, A4, Lo Su

m
Vo THAI

anh
H.
D

TRA
huc

Dinh Tien Hoang - D6, E6 Le Dao Thanh - E7

Da
Tha
Park

BI
B4, B5 g HOC m
Hoa

Tra

ng
Hang Da
an
an P

ng

Din
Doc Lap - B2, C2 Le Duan - D3, E3, F3

To
EN

Vo
Quoc Tu Giam - E2, E3 Gi Ngo Bo

NQ
nh

h
Tran

an
Dong Thai - C6 Le Hong Phong - C2, C3

Ly Q
Ly V

Ly

i
am

Kh
Son Tay - D1 Han Phu rung nC
Day

UAN
Dong Xuan - B5, C5 Le Lai - E6, E7 Ca o Ha T

Ha
Cha Ba
o
Trinh

gC

G
Ta Hien - C6 Ba Qu

uoc

ng
Duong Thanh - C5, D5 Le Phung Hieu - E7

AN

Tien
at
hao

n
Mie

GK
Thanh Ha - B6
ng en
Hoan

Ta
PH
Gam Cau - B5 Le Thach - E6, E7

P hu
Han
TH Ha Huy

Su

Thai
Su
uy
Thanh Nien - A2 g B
gD

U
Gia Ngu - D6 Le Thai To - E6, D6 CAT Ha n g Ngo ong Tho

HAI
Kiem
Van
ot
Ton
UC
Nha
Tran Ng. Han
u

Tron
Giang Vo - D1 Le Thanh Tong - F7 Tho Nhuom - E4, F5 Vu Trie
n

Xu
Quo c
Tie

ND

Lake

EN
Tho Xuong - D5, E5 T ho

Quan

Tong
Ha Hoi - F5 Lo Ren - C5 LINH

Hoang

Thai
hu

Nha

g
i

QUY
Tu Ng

Ho
Thuoc Bac - C5 Nguy

Au
TO

TRA
P. P

Hai Ba Trung - E4, E5, F6, F7 Lo Su - D6, D7 m

Na

Doan
Thuy Khue - A1, A2 en K NG
o Ta huyen Cu a Le
QuGi am

Chu
Hang Bac - C6 Luong Ngoc Quyen - C6

Chau
n
Cau

n
t To Lai
n Co

Lie
Hang Bai - E6, F6 Luong Van Can - C5, D6 Ton Duc Thang - D2, E2, F1 THI

Le
Tho
HAI

Li
oc

ng
Le Thach
Bich

g Tra

LE DUAN
Tong Dan - D6, E7
Hang Be - D6, C6 Ly Nam De - B4, C4, D4
E Tu

Dan
Doa

Si

Si
Tong Duy Tan - D4 n BA TRA

Cap

NGO
Hang Bo - C5 Ly Quoc Su - D5 Gia
Dan

Thi

To
Nam Ngu NG
Ngo

Dong Ngo
Tran Binh Trong - F4 m
Hang Bong - D4, D5, E4 Ly Thai To - D7, E7 Diem TRU
NG THI Le Hieu

Boi
Trang Thi - E4, E5, E6
Phu ng

NG
Hang Bot - D2 Ly Thuong Kiet - E4, F4, F5, Dinh
LY H. K

Nh
Trang Tien - E6, F7 P. Va Le
Hang Bun - A4, B4 F6, F7 HAY

TRU
n
Hanoi

Lo
Tri Thanh

uo
Tran Hung Dao - F4, F5, F6 THU L. Dao
Ngo

Quy
Hang Buom - C6 Ly Van Phuc - D1 ONG TRAN

Su
m
Da

Hoa
Hang Ca - C5, C6 Ma May - C6 Tran Quy Cap - E3, F3 Train G

19/2
KIET TIEN

BAI
NG
Phan
Hang Can - C5 Nam Ngu - E4 Tran Nguyen Han - E6, E7 Ng Station
Q uan

HAI

Can
QUA
Tran Nhat Duat - B6, C6

TRIEU
Qua
Hang Chao - D2 Ngoc Ha - B1, C1
o
NG

Va
Tran Phu - D2, D3, D4 BA Opera
Tran

uong
Hang Chieu - C5, C6 Ngo Huyen - D5 TRA
N n

Khac

H
THA

Huo N

HANG
Tran Quang Khai - C6, D7, E7

TRIN
Hang Chinh - C6 Ngo Quan Tho 1 - E1, F1 TRUN House
Tho 1

Le
Da T
Hang Cot - B5, C5 Ngo Quyen - E7, F6, F7 Tran Quoc Toan - F4 Th G
LY
F
g

Ng.
DUC

Hang Da - D5 Ngo Si Lien - E3 Tran Vu - A2, A3 Pham

BA
HUNG Nh THUO

Than
Su

Kieu
Trinh Hoai Duc - D1, D2 Ngo Manh

CHU
Hang Dao - C6, D6 Ngo Tat To - E2, E3

Tron
Ch
LE DUAN uo NG
Hang Day - D1, D2 Ngo Tram - D4, D5 Van Mieu - D2, E2 ong Van m Vong KIET
uo

h
Van Chu
TON

i
Duc

Binh

Ho
Hang Dieu - C5, D5 Ngo Van Chuong - F1, F2, F3 Vong Duc - F6 DAO
ng

Ngo
Qua Tran

Ha
Hang Dong - C5 Ngo Van Huong - F1 Yen Phu - A4, A5, A6

N
Quo

Tong
nT
Yet c

PHA
Tran
Hang Ga - C5 Nguyen Bieu - A3 Yen Thai - D5 ho Toan
Ho

1
Hang Gai - D5, D6 Nguyen Canh Chan - B3 Yet Kieu - F4 N

112 | Word May 2012

 GET SPOOKED
{crossword} Answers on page 2
Photo of the Month Do you ow
photograp
would look
na
h that
good
by Angela Sims here? Ema
2. Played a part il it to
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 editor@wo
rdhanoi.
3. Sandwich need
com
14 15 16 4. Opposite of nope
5. Believe singer
17 18 19
6. Yearns (for)
20 21 22 23 7. Noahs boat
8. Geller with supposed mental powers
24 25 26 27 28 29 30 9. Nash Bridges star Johnson
31 32 33 34 10. Therefore
11. Novel by 17-Across
35 36 37 38 39 40 41 12. Pet ____ (continual annoyance)

42 43 44 45 13. One True Thing actress Zellweger

18. Used a long-handled garden tool
46 47 48 49 23. Property claim
25. Eeew!
50 51 52
27. President Lincoln, familiarly
53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 28. Enthusiasm
29. Sore, as a back
61 62 63 64 65
32. ____ group (people sharing a common
66 67 68 69 70 71 culture)
34. Basinger of L.A. Confidential
72 73 74 35. Morning droplets on grass

75 76 77 36. Pie ____ mode: 2wds.

37. With 1-Across, Ira Levin novel made into a
1968 film
ACROSS 45. MTV hostess Peeples
39. More enormous
1. See 37-Down 46. The Legend of Sleepy Hollow author Irving
40. Nothing
5. Actor Jean-____ Van Damme 49. Fishes with electric organs
41. Its pumped into a car
11. Lifesaving medical technique, for short 50. More like a 17-Across novel
43. Title for Andrew Lloyd Webber or Ian
14. 43,560 square feet 51. Young lady in a square dance
McKellen
15. Genre of 38-Across and 67-Across 53. Wile E. Coyotes preferred brand
47. Pay attention to
16. ____ Haw (long-running variety show) 55. Skeleton ____ (book by 17-Across)
48. Italian for three
17. Master of 15-Across: 2wds. 57. Saturday Night Fever music
49. Cotton gin inventor Whitney
19. Stimpys cartoon sidekick 61. Actors Pitt and Renfro
52. Sick as ____: 2wds.
20. Caffeinated beverage 63. Tales From the Crypt broadcaster
53. Fuzzy Wuzzy was ____ : 2wds.
21. End of some E-mail addresses 65. Preschooler
54. The Legend of Sleepy Hollow character
22. It may be stuffed with pimento 66. Lobed body part Ichabod ____
24. Son of Herman and Lily Munster 67. 1982 ghost flick with two sequels 56. In which place
26. Tale of heroism 72. Dont get ___ ideas 58. Goosebumps series author R.L. ____
30. That makes sense: 2wds. 73. TVs Mistress of the Dark 59. ____ Rica (Central American country)
31. Letters between B and F 74. Opening poker contribution 60. Playful aquatic mammal
33. Its used to draw water from a well 75. Hi-____ graphics 62. Floored it
35. The ____ Half (novel by 17-Across) 76. Does preflight airplane maintenance in winter 64. Bikini tops
38. Novel by 17-Across: 2wds. 77. Rip 68. Bravo!, at a bullfight
42. Evil Woman rock band, for short 69. 56, in Roman numerals
43. Moo ____ pork DOWN 70. ____-tac-toe
44. Home Improvement star Allen 1. Moisten in the oven, as a turkey 71. Scarf down Taking the Plunge in Ha Long Bay

114 | Word May 2012 May 2012 Word | 115

the LAST
CALL
CAMA festival directors Steve Christensen,
Giles Cooper and Dan Dockery step into
the Word spotlight to reveal their biggest
fears and best moments in the Hanoi live
music scene

PHOTOS BY AARON JOEL SANTOS

HAVING A NAME THAT SOUNDS LIKE
KARMA IS
even more of a coincidence than the fact a
cama is a hybrid camel and llama
THE CHALLENGE OF PUTTING ON A
YEARLY MUSIC FESTIVAL
is decent beer
THE MUSIC SCENE IN HANOI IS
a damn sight better than it was 10 years ago
but still hurting at the loss of The Offensive
CREATING NEW, ORIGINAL MUSIC AT
GRASS ROOTS LEVEL
is Synergy's job
OUR GREATEST ACHIEVEMENT IS
still having the desire to continue on
OUR BIGGEST FAILURE IS
charging less to see a band that's flown
half way around the world than some
people pay for a mixed drink at Rooftop
THE THING WE FEAR THE MOST
is rain
WE LOOK UP TO
the sky and dread the rain
WE'VE ONLY JUST REALISED THAT
not everyone remembers a time when
live music in Hanoi meant listening to the
nose flute guy outside Tong Dan bia hoi
IF OUR MOTHERS COULD SEE US
they'd ask why SoundFest 2012 in Saigon
this year was billed as Vietnam's First
Music Festival
WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT
absinthe, rye whiskey and peychauds
bitters make such good bedfellows
IF WE COULD CHANGE ONE THING
ABOUT HANOI
there'd be an international NGO for
training sound techs

116 | Word May 2012