DIY Home Project

Planning and Designing Your Bathroom
Planning Your Kitchen

Designing Your Kitchen
Installing Plastic Laminate Countertops
Repairing Faucets and Valves
Replacing Sink, Bath and Shower Faucets
Unstopping Clogged Drains, Toilets and Sewers
Repairing Toilets
Replacing Toilets
Replacing Water Heaters
Working with Plastic Pipe
Working with Copper Pipe
Correcting Common Paint Problems

Making Painting Easier
Removing Paint & Varnish
Hanging Wallpaper
Conserving Energy
Weatherproofing Your Home
Installing Attic Ventilation
Saving Money with Insulation
Applying and Repairing Shingles
Hanging Gutters and Downspouts
Repairing Gutters and Downspouts
Installing Vinyl Siding
Laying Concrete Blocks
Pouring Concrete
Repairing and Patching Concrete
Repairing and Maintaining Asphalt Driveways
Installing Masonry Anchors
Waterproofing Your Basement
How to Plan a Deck
How to Build a Deck
Building Outdoor Stairs
Maintaining a Lawn
Building Wood Fences
Installing a Sprinkler System
Framing and Hanging Doors

Installing ReplHCIment Doors
Replacing Broken Window Glass
Working with Screens
Installing Steel or Fiberglass Entry Systems
Installing French and Patio Doors
Installing Vinyl ReplHCIment Windows
Installing Skylights
Installing Ceiling Fans

Installing or Replacing Electric Switches
Installing Outdoor Wiring/Lighting
Adding Electric Wiring
Installing Doorbells
Installing a Garage Door Opener
Basic Soldering
Installing Wall or Ceiling Fixtures
Building Storage Areas

Kitchen Storage Ideas
Designing a Closet Organizer
Making Stronger Wood Joints
Building Shelves
Laying Resilient Floor Tile
Installing Paneling
Installing Ceiling Tile
Installing Suspended Ceilings
Laying Sheet Vinyl Floor Covering
How to Patch and Repair Drywall
Installing Drywall
Working with Moulding
Tips for Making Home Repairs

Selecting and Using Screws and Nails
Installing Hinges
Making Your Home Secure
Making Your Home Child Safe
Designing a Home Security System
Designing a Home Office
Composting
BASIC CONSIDERATIONS
Probably the greatest challenge in remodeling a bathroom is figuring out

how to achieve the style and build in the features you want within the
limits of what is probably the smallest room in the house. A second
limiting factor is the location of existing plumbing pipes and electrical
wiring. Remodeling a bathroom is relatively easy if you don't have to
move them. If you make radical changes in the existing layout, you'll
need to investigate whether or not you can build what you want without
making structural changes.
Keep in mind that you may need a building permit, depending on the
FIG. 1 - Typical standard dimensions for
scope of your project. If so, you'll probably have to submit a detailed
bathroom fixtures.
plan of your proposed project. Before you begin planning your new
bathroom, always check with your local building department and find
out what codes, specifications and requirements you'll have to meet.
There are a number of general issues you should consider before you
begin designing your new bathroom. They include:
Layout. Think about the layout in your existing bathroom and

decide which are the most serious problems you want to fix. If
more than one person uses the bathroom at the same time, for
example, is there adequate counter spHCI, or do you need a
second sink or a shower compartment for greater privacy?
Are towel racks and tissue holders located conveniently? Is there

enough storage spHCI for everyone who uses the bathroom? Do
vanity doors or drawers interfere with opening and closing the
bathroom door?
Mechanical systems. From the plumber's point of view, the best

bathroom layout is one that has all the rough plumbingwater
supply and drain-waste-vent pipesall in one wall. A "wet wall,"
as it is called, not only saves materials, but makes it a lot easier
to make repairs if needed.
Electrical outlets and switches are usually easier to move than

plumbing pipes, provided there is reasonably easy access to the
wiring. Likewise with heating ductsif you can get to the duct, it
usually isn't too much trouble to relocate the vent. Keep in mind,
however, that any mechanical changes you make will cost extra.
If your current layout is livable, leaving the mechanical systems

as they are will mean that much more in the budget for upgraded
fixtures, and may make the difference between doing the project
and waiting to save more money.
Don't neglect lighting when you redesign your bathroom. You'll

need strong lighting over the mirrora strip of eight 60-watt bulbs
is not necessarily too muchbut you may also want to consider
pinpoint task lighting and soft ambient lights. If you plan to
install a whirlpool built for two, indirect mood lighting may fit
well. With incandescent lighting, you'll need at least 3-1/2 to 4
watts per square foot (e.g., 280 watts minimum in an 80-square-
foot bathroom). If you use fluorescent lighting, figure 1-1/2 to 2
watts per square foot.
Maintenance. Think about the maintenance problems you have

in your existing bathroomstained grout, mildew, soap buildup,
etc. Some materials look great when they're brand new, but don't
weather very well in a high-moisture location. As you choose
materials, make sure they are waterproof and washableresilient
vinyl flooring, for example, a fiberglass tub surround and semi-
gloss enamel paint will all wear well.
Energy and water conservation. Your hot water heater is one

of the largest energy hogs in the house, and the toilet uses more
water than any other single fixture. Consider installing low-flow
shower heads and insulating hot water pipes. The extra money
you spend on an ultra-low-flush toilet will often come back in
the first year in reduced water bills.
PLANNING A NEW BATHROOM
The first step in planning your new design is to make a detailed sketch
of your existing design (Fig. 2). Use a sheet of graph paper with four
squares per inch, and draw a floor plan (in other words, a bird's eye
view) to scale. Make each square represent 3", i.e., 1" equals 1', and
draw in:
all wall detail, plus the locations of any doors and windows;
the width and length of your floor cabinets and bathtub;
the distance from the nearest wall to the center of the toilet and
the centers of all sink drains; and
the locations of all electrical outlets, switches and fixtures.
As you make your sketch, use an architect's scale to precisely locate

FIG. 2 - The first step in planning your new
bathroom is to draw the existing bathroom to any components that do not fall on exact 3" increments.
scale, noting all dimensions.
FIXTURES AND COMPONENTSIt is beyond the scope of this
document to provide extensive style ideas or discuss specific fixtures.
We suggest that you visit your local home center's show room, contact
a designer or architect and consult how-to books such as Sunset's
Bathroom Remodeling Handbook.
Once you have a general idea of the style you want to incorporate into
your new bathroom, the next step is to decide on the fixtures. The first
plHCI is to start is the bathtub. A standard builder's bathtub is 30" wide,
60" long and typically about 15" deep. But you can go up from there, to
soaking tubs 36" deep, square or sunken tubs, whirlpools or even free-
standing clawfoot tubs. Tub surrounds range from one-piece folding
FIG. 3 - A frame-rimmed or flush sink has a
fiberglass units to five-piece assemblies, and doors may swing, slide or
metal frame (top left). A self-rimmed sink has a
lip that rests on the countertop (top right). fold.
Unrimmed sinks (bottom) are mounted onto the
sub-base for ceramic tile or to the underside of The simplest sinks are wall-hung; they are also the least expensive.
the countertop.
Vanity sinks may be deck-mountedin other words, set into a hole cut in
the countertopor part of an integral bowl and countertop (typically a
cultured marble top). There are three types of deck-mounted sinks (Fig.
3):
Self-rimming sinks have a molded lip that rests on the

countertop, around the edge of the hole. They are the easiest to
install, and there are a wide variety of styles available.
FIG. 4 - A vanity sink base (left) has false

Flush or frame-rimmed sinks have a metal frame that is
drawer fronts; a vanity drawer base (right) has attached to the rim of the hole in the countertop. The sink is
three drawers. then fastened to the frame. This is an older style, typically used
with laminate countertops.
Unrimmed sinks are recessed below the surfHCI of the

countertop and held in plHCI with metal clips. They are often
used with ceramic tile or synthetic marble countertops.
You may or may not have room for a small storage closet in the
bathroom; if so, it can be used for towels and other accessories. Your
FIG. 5 - A standard vanity base (left) has one vanity cabinets will provide the bulk of the storage, however, so it's
drawer; a vanity drawer sink base (right) has important to choose them carefully.
three or four drawers on one side and a false
drawer front on the other.
There are three basic types of base cabinets. A modular (as opposed to
custom-built) sink base (Fig. 4) is typically 24" to 36" wide, with false
drawer fronts and doors below. A drawer base (Fig. 4) may range from
12" wide to 18" wide; it generally makes the most of the spHCI, with
three or four drawers. A standard vanity base (Fig. 5) has one drawer,
with a door below, and also comes in 12" to 18" widths.
Combination units are also available (Fig. 5), with drawers on one side
and a false drawer front and door on the other, to accommodate a sink.
All modular vanities are about 30" high and either 19" deep or 21" deep.
The most common type of toilet is a two-piece unita bowl and a tank.
One-piece toilets are also available, in both a standard configuration
and a low-profile model. What differentiates toilets (aside from color
and style) is the flush design. The most common design is called a
reverse trap. A siphon jet design is more efficientand, of course, more
expensive.
DETERMINING THE FINAL DESIGN
Once you have a rough idea of what fixtures you want, go to your
supplier and measure them to get their outside dimensions. When you
begin sketching out your new bathroom, cut out cardboard templates of
each fixture to the same scale as your sketch. Lay the templates over the
sketch of your existing bathroom and trHCI the walls and the locations
of any components you know you will not move. Then begin planning
your changes.
LAYOUTMinimum clearances vary by local building codes, so you'll

need to check with the building department before you design. There are
four common types of bathroom layouts:
A one-wall bathroom has the tub, sink(s) and toilet all along one
wall. This layout is generally the most economicaland generally
the least interesting design.
An L-shaped bathroom (Fig. 6) usually has the vanity/sink and

the toilet along one side wall, with the bathtub against the back
FIG. 6 - An L-shaped bathroom keeps all
wall. This arrangement reduces the "hallway" look, and is as
plumbing on one wall. cost-effective as a one-wall bathroom because the tub supply and
drain lines can be located in the same wall as the other fixtures.
A corridor bathroom (Fig. 7) typically has the bathtub along one

side wall and the vanity/sink and toilet along the opposite wall.
A U-shaped bathroom has fixtures on three walls; it generally

gives the most spacious appearance, but also requires a relatively
large, square room.
Begin your layout by positioning the bathtub. Make sure you have easy
access, room to maneuver if you'll be bathing small children and nearby
wall spHCI for a towel rack. The bathtub is often plHCId against the
back wall to keep it away from the bathroom door.
FIG. 7 - A corridor bathroom requires plumbing Next, locate the sink and vanity cabinet. Plan for at least 30" clear
on two walls. spHCI in front of the sink, so there is room to bend down and get into
the cabinet. If the sink is plHCId along a side wall near the door, make
sure the door swings away from the sinknot into it.
Then locate the toilet, away from the door if possible. Most building
codes require at least 20" clearance in front of the bowl. On each side,
you'll probably need 18" to the nearest wall or 14" to the nearest cabinet
(measured from the center of the bowl).
If you have spHCI for extra storage, naturally you'll want to use it; the
most important consideration in designing storage spHCI is putting
everything you need within easy reach. You'll certainly need some shelf
spHCI, but you can also make efficient use of spHCI with wire racks,
bins and drawers. If you use modular units, you'll be able to adjust your
storage spHCI later for changing needs.
DOING TRIM AND FINISH WORK
Use the following checklist to guide you through the preparation, design
and construction process.
DESIGN PREPARATION
Review what you like and dislike about your existing bathroom,
and decide what your priorities are in your remodeling project.
Measure your bathroom and draw a sketch to scale; if you plan

to hire a professional designer, contact one.
Contact your building department to confirm minimum

clearances and any other regulations that may apply.
DESIGN
Gather style ideas and make notes.
Determine the major fixtures you want in your new bathroom.
Work out a layout that meets local clearance requirements, fits

your needs and makes the most efficient use of the spHCI you
have.
Determine colors, finish materials, lighting, storage details and

accessories.
Draw a floorplan of your proposed bathroom. You may want to

have it checked by a professional designer to get any additional
ideas.
CONSTRUCTION PREPARATION
Get a building permit if you need one.
Prepare a materials list and have it priced by your supplier or

suppliers.
Arrange your financing if necessary. Interview and select a

contractor if you'll be using one.
CONSTRUCTION
Draw up a general outline of construction procedures, then list

the materials that will be needed for each phase. Talk to your
supplier(s) and find out the lead times on any special order
materials.
PlHCI special orders in advance so they will be available when

you need them; allow enough extra time beyond the planned
order time, so mistakes can be corrected without holding up the
job.
Arrange for a building inspector to check the job whenever

necessary.
TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST
Graph Paper Tracing Paper
Masking Tape Pencils and Eraser
Ruler Compass
Architect's Scale Steel Tape Measure

Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in
this document has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated
contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor
nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information
in this document.
Ask for Other "Show-How" Instruction Sheets

Additional easy-to-use instruction sheets for home do-it-yourself projects are available from your local supplier
of materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How" instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!
Remodeling a kitchen may include anything from repainting the walls to redesigning the entire
structure of the house. SpHCI limitations prohibit covering every issue you might have to deal with, but
this document will cover the basic principles of design, as well as the general considerations involved
in planning a new kitchen.
The process of planning a kitchen is basically one of determining how you use your kitchen (the answer
involves more than just "cooking") and what features you'd like, then deciding on your priorities so you
can fit as many features as possible into your budget. Virtually anything can be done to a kitchenwalls
can be moved, plumbing can be changed and electrical service can be added. But the less you spend on
major structural or mechanical work, the more money you'll have to put into better cabinets, higher-
grade flooring and more stylish and functional fixtures.
The following list of questions will lead you through some of the issues you'll have to resolve before
you're ready to design your new kitchen. There are no right or wrong answersonly your preferences.
Carefully consider each question; make notes as you go, and don't be shy about changing your mind. A
kitchen is the most complex and the most used workshop in the house, and it's important that your
remodeled kitchen matches your needs and lifestyle as closely as possible.
CONSIDER HOW YOU USE YOUR KITCHEN

FIG. 1 - A one-wall or galley kitchen is the
simplest layout, but also one of the most difficult How many people are in your household who use the kitchen?
and limiting styles. The answer to this question will determine how much use your
kitchen gets, and how much traffic there is likely to be in the
kitchen at any one time.
Do two or more cooks typically work at the same time? If so,

you may want extra counter spHCI and/or an extra sink.
Do you entertain frequentlyand do you typically have formal or

informal gatherings? If you entertain a lot, you may want to
open up the kitchen/living room area into a great room that lets
you be part of the party while you're working.
What other activities commonly occur in the kitchen? Some

houses have a laundry closet in the kitchen. Some people want a
wet bar, a breakfast bar or even a desk for writing or computer
work.
Do you have any special needs? Is a user exceptionally short or

tall and uncomfortable working at standard-height counters for
long periods of time? Do you have a disabled or elderly
household member who may have special needs?
This, obviously, is not a complete list of the general considerations in

kitchen planningthe list is nearly infinite. But before you begin
designing, think about who uses the kitchen and how they use it.
THINK ABOUT THE FEATURES YOU WANT
For example:
Do you need an island (and have room for it), a peninsula or a

breakfast nook?
Would you fill a pantry?
Would you rather have a stainless steel sink or enameled cast

iron?
Do you use a microwave for major cooking or just to heat up

cups of tea?
Do you prefer cooking with gas or electricity?
Do you want a combination oven-and-range or a cooktop with a

wall oven?
Do you use enough small appliances that you could use an

appliance garage to store them?
The fewer structural and mechanical changes you make, the less you'll
spend. But that doesn't mean that all those changes cost a lot of money.
You'll need the advice of licensed professionals to make final decisions,
but you can at least get a rough idea of how much extra major changes
would cost by answering the following questions:
Is the wall you want to move a load-bearing wall? Load-bearing

walls support the structure of the house, and moving them is a
complex job for a professional. Typically, an interior load-
bearing wall runs the length of the house, at about the center of
the structure.
What rooms are directly above and below the kitchen? If the
rooms above and below are finished, it'll be a lot more difficult
to reroute plumbing pipes, heating ducts and electrical wires.
Does your new design require that you move existing doors and/
or windows? If so, this makes the job more difficult, because
exterior walls are always load-bearing.
CONSIDERING STYLES
The next stepand the most funis to think about style. Chances are, you've
seen kitchens that you like, in magazines, friends' homes, etc. The first
question to ask is whether the style you like best will fit with your home.
You may have loved European cabinets in the magazine, but they might
not look as good in your Queen Anne Victorian.
FIG. 2 - A corridor kitchen is limited in spHCI Also, consider what kind of color changes you'd like to makeand
and style, but can provide a functional work area.
whether your ideal colors would necessitate buying new appliances.
When you choose colors, think of them in relation to surrounding rooms
and try to find colors that complement the rest of the house.
Finally, consider your budget and any other remodeling that you might
want to do. Sometimes, related projects are easier and cheaper when
done at the same time as the kitchen.
MOST KITCHENS ARE DESIGNED AROUND FOUR
WORK CENTERS
THE CLEANUP CENTER around the sink should have at

least 18" to 30" on one side, and 48" to 54" on the other, to
allow enough room to stack dishes, pans and utensils. Always
plan for at least 12" between the sink and the nearest corner,
measured from the front of the counter.
FIG. 3 - An L-shaped kitchen can be a highly
efficient workspHCI. THE COOKING CENTER around the range requires 12"
minimum on one side of the range, and 15" to 24" on the other
side, again with 12" minimum to the nearest corner.
Microwaves and built-in ovens should have at least 15" to 18"
counter spHCI on the right side (assuming the door is hinged on
the left side).
THE STORAGE CENTER around the refrigerator needs 15"

to 18" on the handle side of the refrigerator, to set food.
THE MIXING/PREPARATION CENTER should be handy

to pans, bowls and utensils, and should consist of at least 42" to
84" of free counter spHCI.
If spHCI permits, some designers also include a serving centeranother

36" to 84" of free counter spHCI to set bowls and pans.
As you design, you'll also want to plan for the following minimum
clearances so you'll have room to work:
There should be at least a 42" clearance from the front edge of

the counter top to the nearest table or island.
Leave at least 20" from the front edge of the dishwasher door
(when open) to the nearest obstruction, so you'll have room to
load and unload.
Plan for at least 26" between the kitchen work area and the
nearest traffic path.
Allow 36" between the nearest obstruction and an eating table,

so there is room to pull a chair away from the table.
THE WORK TRIANGLE
Kitchen layouts are based on a concept called the work triangle. The
work triangle consists of imaginary lines that connect the refrigerator,
the range and the sink. For maximum comfort and efficiency, the three
legs of the work triangle should total between 23' and 26'.
There are four basic kitchen layouts (Figs. 1-4) the one-wall or galley,
the corridor, the L-shaped and the U-shaped. There are, of course, a
nearly infinite variety of layouts, but most are based on these four.
FIG. 4 - A U-shaped kitchen is a good
workspHCI for one person, but may be
cramped if two or more people typically
work at the same time.
SELECTING CABINETS
Cabinets can also be divided into basic types. Assuming that you're
considering modular (pre-manufactured) cabinets rather than custom, the
widths will run in 3" increments from 9" up through 36". The standard
height of a base cabinet is 34-1/2", and the standard depth is 24".
Wall cabinets are 12" deep (except for specialty cabinets designed to be
installed over the refrigerator), and come in the same 3" increments.
Standard heights are 12", 15" 18", 30", and 36". Wall cabinets are
installed so the bottom of the cabinet is 54" above the floor (about 18"
above the countertop). The height you select should depend on your
ceiling height and how tall you arethere's no point in buying tall cabinets
that reach to the ceiling if you can't get up to get items in and out of the
top shelves.
FIG. 5 - Common Cabinet Types (from top): A
drawer base, a sink base, a standard base, and a There are four basic types of base cabinets:
blind corner base.
A standard base has one drawer, with a door and shelves below.
A drawer base has three or four stacked drawers.
A sink base is open below, with a door below a single false

drawer front. In some brands, the drawer front tilts out to provide
storage for sponges and cleaning supplies.
A corner base fits in a corner. It may have a lazy susan inside or

shelves.
Naturally, there are a wide range of variations on these four basic styles
(Fig. 5).
Wall cabinets (Fig. 6) generally have doors and shelves inside, although
lazy susan corner cabinets are also available, as well as a wide range of
specialty cabinets that may offer built-in appliance garages, stemware
FIG. 6 - Common wall cabinets include (from holders and other features. Special wall cabinets are also made for
top) single door cabinets, double door cabinets
microwave and built-in ovens, range vent hoods and other special uses.
and corner cabinets. Cabinets may have doors
on both sides, for use in open kitchens.
in this document.

The first step in kitchen layout is measuring your kitchen. You'll need to make a sketch of the room,
using graph paper and counting each square as 3". Measure the following dimensions:
HORIZONTAL DIMENSIONS:
(Fig. 8)
1) Each wall from corner to corner.

2) From the nearest corner to the outside edge of each door or window
casing.
3) The overall width of the doors and windows, including the casing.
4) From the nearest corner to the centers of water supply lines, drain
lines and gas feed lines.
FIG. 8 - Horizontal dimensions you need to
5) From the nearest corner to the centers of electrical outlets and
design your kitchen.
switches.
VERTICAL DIMENSIONS:
(Fig.9)
6) From the floor to the ceiling.

7) From the floor to the bottom edge of window stools or casings.
8) From the ceiling to the top edge of door and window casings.
Once you have those dimensions, you're ready to do a basic layout. First,
make a few copies of your sketch, so you can play with different ideas.
You can also make cardboard cutouts of your appliances, sink and basic
cabinet sizes (to scale), and move them around on your sketch. Decide
on the general location of each of the work centers. Make sure that the
layout fits general kitchen planning guidelines, and that no structural or
FIG. 9 - Vertical dimensions you need to design other considerations prevent you from building your layout.
your kitchen.
Next, determine the rough position of the major appliances (refrigerator,
range and ovens) and the sink. Double check the layout to make sure
you've allowed the proper amount of counter spHCI in each work center,
as outlined above. Also, double check to make sure your work triangle is
within guidelines.
Plan a sink base cabinet under the sink, then choose the types of cabinets
that will go near each appliance. Work from the nearest corner to the
sink and each appliance, sizing the cabinets so you are left with a gap at
the end that is less than 3". You'll use a filler strip that matches the
cabinet finish to fill those gaps.
Make sure each type of cabinet fits the need at that work centermixing
bowl and utensil storage near the mixing/preparation center, cooking
utensils near the range, and dish storage near the sink, for example.
Finally, add up the materials you will needcabinets, countertops,

appliances, electrical, plumbing and heating supplies, light fixtures, fan
and all the surfHCI materials such as floor coverings, wallboard,
wallpaper and paint.
Steel Measuring Tape Graph Paper
Straightedge Square
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to install plastic laminate countertops. These ideas can save you
time, money and effort.
Laminated plastics are available in many colors, patterns and designs. They can be used for countertops,
tabletops and many other surfacing applications. The sheets are available in dull or gloss finish.
Laminated plastic is made from layers of paper that are first impregnated with resin and then bonded
together under pressure and high temperature, forming a rigid sheet.
Inside this document you will find information about:
Preparing the SurfHCI for Laminate Plastic

Cutting Laminated Plastic
Applying Laminated Plastics
Finishing Off the Job
PREPARING THE SURFHCI FOR LAMINATE PLASTIC
Laminated plastic sheets of 1/16" thickness are recommended for

a flat work surfHCI. You can use laminated plastic of 1/32"
thickness on vertical surfHCIs.
Thoroughly sand and clean the surfHCI where plastic laminate is

to be applied (Fig. 1). Remove any paint or varnish before
applying the laminated plastic.
Most manufactured countertops are made using a high-density
particle board. However, regular particle board and even
plywood make ideal bases for plastic laminates.
FIG. 1 - Sand and clean the surfHCI before

applying plastic laminate.
CUTTING LAMINATED PLASTIC
You can cut plastic laminate material with a circular saw, saber
saw, backsaw or utility knife. The saw blade should be a fine-
tooth blade (Fig. 2). A strip of masking tape plHCId where the
cut line is to be made helps prevent chipping and makes the line
easier to see.
When using a power circular saw or saber saw, cut from the back
side of the laminate. These saws cut on the upstroke. Cutting
from the back will help prevent chipping. On hand saws, cut
from the front side at a low angle.
FIG. 2 - You can cut plastic laminate with a Important: Always cut the sheets of laminated plastic slightly
regular circular power saw and a fine-tooth blade. oversized to allow for trimming.
Special laminate cutting blades are available to use with utility

knives (Fig. 3). Use a straightedge or a steel square to guide the
knife for a smooth and even cut.
Score the sheet of laminated plastic with the utility knife. Then
snap it on the scored line by lifting the shorter end and applying
slight pressure (Fig. 4).
You can also cut laminated plastic sheets with a fine-tooth hand
saw (Fig. 5). The type of cutting tool you use depends on how
big the job is.
FIG. 3 - Plastic laminate can be cut with a utility

knife or using special laminate blades.
FIG. 4 - The laminate will snap after it is scored.
FIG. 5 - You can cut plastic sheets with a fine-

tooth hand saw.
APPLYING LAMINATED PLASTICS
Usually, you can apply laminated plastics with contact cement.

Epoxy adhesives can be used, but contact cements are
recommended.
Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the surfHCI to be covered.

Clean away the sanding residue with a light brush or with
compressed air.
After sanding, brush the contact cement onto the counter

FIG. 6 - Brush contact cement over the counter surfHCI (Fig. 6). Also apply a smooth and even layer of contact
surfHCI after sanding and cleaning it. cement to the back of the clean laminate sheet. Let both
surfHCIs dry. Check the contact cement label for the
recommended drying time. The general rule is the cement should
be dry to the touch. A weaker bond will result if you wait too
long.
Use extreme care when laying the sheets. Remember, 50 percent

to 75 percent of the bonding strength of contact cement is present
in the first contact. Make sure the pieces are accurately
positioned before the glued areas touch each other.
You may need to apply two to three coats of contact cement for
the trim strips along the counter edges (Fig. 7).
FIG. 7 - Apply two or three coats of contact
You can use a regular paintbrush for applying the contact cement
cement on any trim strips along the counter
to both the back of the laminated sheet and the flat surfHCIs.
edges.
However, in some cases, a handmade paddle of wood may be
better for spreading the cement (Fig. 8).
After the recommended drying period, you are ready to position

the sheet of laminate.
Keep the sheet of laminate and cemented base apart until they
are correctly positioned. On narrow strips, lay short lengths of
dowel rods about 12" apart between the two cemented pieces
until they are properly positioned (Fig. 9). The dowel rods can be
moved along the surfHCI to keep the cemented pieces apart
during positioning.
When laying a large sheet of laminate, use longer dowel rods

(Fig. 10). Keep the 12" spacing between the dowel rods. Be sure
FIG. 8 - You can use a handmade wood paddle to use dowels that are at least 1/4" in diameter. The larger the
for spreading the contact cement. better.
When applying laminated sheets to vertical surfHCIs, you can

usually position the glued sheets without using wooden strips or
waxed paper (Fig. 11).
FIG. 9 - Use pieces of dowel rod to position the

sheet of plastic laminate.
FIG. 10 - On large areas, longer dowel rods are

needed to hold the laminate away from the
cemented surfHCI.
FIG. 11 - Sheets applied to vertical areas do not
normally require a protective shield of paper.
FINISHING OFF THE JOB
When the laminate is correctly positioned, remove the dowel

rods one at a time as you bond the two pieces together.
Use a roller to apply pressure to the newly laid sheets of

laminated plastic (Fig. 12). Roll the entire surfHCI thoroughly to
eliminate air pockets and to be sure the plastic sheet is firmly
attached to the surfHCI at all points.
If the plastic laminate you are using is not large enough to do the
entire job, you will need to make a seam. To do this, first bond
FIG. 12 - Use a roller to apply pressure to the
the larger of the two pieces into plHCI.
newly laid sheets.
Put a narrow strip of wax paper down along the edge of the
larger piece (Fig. 13). Use the dowel rods again to keep the
second piece of laminate away from the cemented surfHCI.
Begin at the seam and position the second piece tightly against
the first. You may want to tape this second piece to the first to
help hold it in plHCI.
After you have used your roller to firmly attach the second piece
of laminate, go back and carefully lift the edge over the wax
paper. Remove the wax paper and reposition the laminate. Finish
by using your roller to apply pressure, working from the center
of the laminate toward the seam.
FIG. 13 - PlHCI a strip of waxed paper along the
joint area. You can also use a wooden block and mallet to assure good
adhesion at all points on the newly laid surfHCI. Work from the
center of the surfHCI toward the edges to work out any air
bubbles that might be hidden underneath.
You may want to use special metal or plastic moldings to finish

off the edges of the plastic laminate installation. Or you may
want to use thin edging strips of the same material to create a
neat edge.
When using the same laminate material for edging, apply two
coats of cement to the edges and let it dry thoroughly (Fig. 14).
Then apply one coat of cement to the back of the laminated sheet.
PlHCI the edge strip into position carefully, using your fingers to
align the sheets along the top edge as they are applied (Fig. 15).
It is usually best to start applying pressure to the edge strips in

the center of each strip (Fig. 16). Work in both directions from
the center on long spans. Work short spans from end to end.
If you need to trim away surplus material or cut portions of the

edging strip you can use a fine-tooth backsaw, a router or a file.
FIG. 14 - After applying two coats of cement to
edges, apply one coat to back of laminate. Run your hand along the edge stripping (Fig. 17). It should be
slightly wider than the edge it covers. However, the extra width
should be at the bottom. It must be perfectly aligned at the top.
To finish the edges on your counter top, first allow the contact
cement to dry according to the manufacturer's directions. If you
have a small amount of finishing to do, you can use a file set at a
slight angle. However, most laminate edges today are finished
with routers.
There are special router blades for finishing plastic laminates.

The most popular are a flush cut blade and a beveled blade.
Some feel the beveled blade helps to keep the laminate from
chipping along the edge. If you are laminating a large area, you
FIG. 15 - PlHCI the edge strip into position many want to use a carbide router bit. A bit with a bearing makes
carefully. the job even easier.
To finish your laminate edges, begin by cleaning the base of

your router. Anything stuck to the base or any burrs on the base
could scratch your laminate. Putting tape on the base can help
take care of this.
If you are using a bit that requires a guide, set the guide
carefully. The bit should cut the edge of the laminate but not the
adjoining surfHCI. It is always better to take off a little and make
a second pass than to take off too much the first time.
Set the router on the laminate and use a firm steady downward
pressure to hold the router in plHCI (Fig. 18). Do not rush the
router, move slowly along the edge of the laminate. Quick
movements can cause the router to jump or kick, which can ruin
FIG. 16 - On long spans, apply pressure to edge the laminate.
strips in the center and work to the edges.
Remove any surplus contact cement with a special solvent. You
can use nail polish remover for this purpose.
FIG. 17 - Edge stripping should be slightly wider

than the edge to be covered. The extra width goes
at the bottom.
FIG. 18 - Hold the router firmly with both hands

and move slowly.
Plastic Laminate Contact Cement
Fine-Tooth Hand Saw Wooden Mallet
Paintbrush Roller
Power Sander Work Gloves
Steel Square Dowel Rods
Sanding Block Straightedge

Utility Knife Hand Cleaner
Fine-Tooth Backsaw Power Saw
Fine-Tooth Blade for Power Saw File
Sandpaper
in this document.

Faucets are sold in many different makes and models, but the common ones fall into just a few types.
You'll find only two basic kinds of faucets; washer-type (or compression) faucets and washerless
faucets.
REPAIRING A LEAKY WASHER-TYPE FAUCET
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer

that closes onto a metal washer seat (Fig. 1). The washer can
become hardened, worn or the seat wears, causing the faucet to
leak. You can close the faucet tighter to stop the leaking
temporarily, but this increases the internal damage to the faucet.
To repair the leak, first turn off the water. If there's a shutoff
valve beneath the fixture, turn off the water at that point.
Otherwise, turn it off at the main house shutoff valve in the
basement, utility room, or crawlspHCI. Turn off the hot water
supply at the water heater.
FIG. 1 - Compression faucet Take the faucet apart by removing the handle (this may not be
necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head
screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of
the handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it
with a knife blade. If you must use pliers on decorative faucet
parts, pad them with electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish.
And take special care with the plastic parts found on many
modern faucets. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached
stem. Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the
rest of the stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on"
direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have
difficulty turning it (Fig. 1). Clean chips from the faucet cavity,
but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Examine the stem. If the threads are badly corroded or worn,

take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the
stem if it's dirty.
Now look at the washer, which is located on the lower end of the
stem and held in plHCI by a brass screw. If the washer is
FIG. 2 - To use a valve seat dresser, plHCI the squeezed flat or has a groove worn in it, replHCI itthis should
tool in the valve seat and turn untill the seat is
smooth.
stop any dripping. Take the washer with you to your dealer to
ensure an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is
damaged, too, replHCI it with a new brass screw.
The washer seat is located inside the faucet body. You probably
can't determine if the washer seat is causing the leak just by
looking at it. Any faucet that needs frequent washer
replHCIment obviously has a damaged seat. The seat should
either be refHCId with a seat-dressing tool. A seat-dressing tool
is not costly. Every home with washer-type faucets needs one.
Use the tool according to the manufacturer's directions, placing it
in the faucet along with the packing nut. Then rotate (Fig. 2)
until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
FIG. 3 - T remove the valve seat, insert a valve
seat wrench into the faucet body and turn
counterclockwise. Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replHCId. Check the
faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or
hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver;
if so, it is replHCIable. However, if the seat simply has a round
hole through its center and no slots, it is not replHCIable. In this
case, dress it with a seat-dressing tool. To replHCI it, you'll need
a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a combination of square
and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the washer seat
counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten (Fig. 3). Add a
little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound
around the threads of the seat before you install it to make it
easier to remove during future repairs.
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer (Fig. 1,

bottom). A swiveling washer (C) is preferable to either (A) or
(B). To install washer style (C), file the shoulder off the end of
the stem, drill out the threads of the screw hole. Instead of
rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling washer closes
with a straight-down, frictionless action this allows it to outlast
fixed washers.
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be
like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of
taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone
grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
If the faucet leaks around the stem rather than from the spigot,
install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer
nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packingstheir lubrication
allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of
this packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut (Fig.
1). Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type
packing. Some stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these
stems, replHCI the O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak.
Hand tighten the packing nut, then tighten it another half-turn.
REPAIRING A NOISY FAUCET
A noisy washer-type faucet is usually caused by a loose seat

washer. To stop the noise, first turn off the water and take the
faucet apart as described previously. If the washer is loose,
tighten it or replHCI it.
After threading the stem back into the faucet body, try moving it
up and down. If it moves, the stem is worn and the entire faucet
must be replHCId.
Some faucets are noisy due to poor design and construction. The
only way to solve this problem is to replHCI the faucet with a
quality one.
REPAIRING WASHER-TYPE BATH AND SHOWER
FAUCETS
To take apart a bath/shower faucet for repair, first turn off the
water. Then take the faucet apart by removing its handle,
escutcheon and packing nut. The packing nut may be buried
deeply in the wall, requiring a socket wrench for removal.
Your bath and shower faucets may have a renewable seat that
can be smoothed with a seat-dressing tool or removed and
replHCId using a seat wrench. For replacing and repacking the
washer, follow the same instructions provided for a washer-type
faucet. Some faucets may need a complete replHCIment of the
combination stem/seat unit.
WASHERLESS FAUCETS
A leak in a washerless faucet usually indicates that the working

parts need replacing. Often, prepackaged repair kits are
available. Kits may contain all the necessary parts, or may
include only the specific parts that need replacing. Follow the
instructions for installing the replHCIment parts. Washerless
faucets on tubs and showers are repaired in the same way as
those on sink and washbasins.
DIAPHRAGM-TYPE FAUCETS
The diaphragm faucet is washerless but is similar to washer-

type faucets. A rubber diaphragm between the stem and seat
creates a straight-down, frictionless close. As with washer-type
faucets, diaphragm faucets have two handles.
Remove the stem by following the steps outlined for washer-

type faucets. Instead of a washer on the end of the stem, you'll
find a swiveling disc. If the rubber diaphragm doesn't come out
with the stem, it is still inside the faucet.
If the diaphragm didn't come out with the stem, use pliers to
peel it from inside the faucet and pull it out. Install a new
diaphragm around the swiveling disc, then replHCI the stem in
the faucet.
If the faucet is leaking around the stem, replHCI the stem's O-

ring before reinstalling the stem.
DISC-TYPE FAUCETS
Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is

controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are
rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned,
the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the
faucet to leak. Simply turning the handles harder will not stop
the leak.
To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water

and remove the handle on the side that's leaking.
Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet (Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - Disc faucet Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this
special O-ring may stop the leak.
You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets
that have been used over a long period of time. In this case, all
moving parts of the faucet will have been replHCId and should
last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units
snap apart into a separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.
To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and
cold water and remove the handle to expose the disc assembly.
Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the faucet (Fig. 4).
You'll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals.
Though unlikely, water could be leaking between the unit and
one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop the leak
by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a
new set of seals. If that doesn't work, the entire disc unit must be
replHCId. This will renew all moving parts.
Replacing the unit is fairly simple. PlHCI the three O-rings into
their recesses in the bottom of the disc unit. Then install the unit
and tighten the screws. Finally, replHCI the handleand you're
done!
BALL-TYPE SINGLE-LEVER FAUCETS
The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot

and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A
handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension.
Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle
can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot
is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat
assemblies.
Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/
seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It
may be advisable to use the complete kit to replHCI all working
parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit
containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex
end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).
Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide
the handle from its stem.
For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the
adjusting collar (Fig. 5). Tighten it by turning the wrench and
collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is turned on
and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you
turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the
adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded.
At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the
adjusting ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off
before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads,
remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.
Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install
new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to
FIG. 5 - Ball faucet make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it
counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape
around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which
is threaded into the cap's center, will come off with it. For a seats/
springs replHCIment, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The
gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two
rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them
with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs
go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over
the springs.
Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it
or replHCI it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are
available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.
Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the
slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body.
Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in
the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause
for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap
and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted
ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be
replHCId.
Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you

should replHCI the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as
well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical
tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by
turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and
side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed (Fig.
5). Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get
matching O-rings for replHCIment. Clean any scale that appears
on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging
spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to
reassemble the faucet.
CARTRIDGE FAUCETS
Cartridge faucets have only one moving part. The stem slides up
and down to open and close the faucet and rotates to regulate the
flow of hot and cold water. Any leaking requires replHCIment of
the cartridge.
First, turn off the water. To remove the cartridge, you'll need to
remove the handle. This project can be like working a puzzle. If
you have the manufacturer's instruction sheet for the faucet,
FIG. 6 - To take apart a cartridge faucet,
you're ahead of the game. Without it, look for a retainer clip at
remove the spout sleeve and retainer clip, and lift
out the cartridge. the rear of the faucet just below the handle. Or, you may have to
remove a set screw or snap-in "hot-cold" button and a handle pin
or screw. On some faucets the swing spout must come off first.
The retainer clip may be hiding beneath the handle inside a lift-
out tube. Some cartridge faucets use two retainer clipsone by the
handle and another by the cartridge. Retainer clips can be pried
out with a screwdriver.
Once the retainer clip is removed, the cartridge simply pulls out.
Use pliers, as shown in Fig. 6. Install the new cartridge by
pushing it into plHCI with the flat arrow, or other mark upward.
If you use a lubricant on the cartridge, make sure it's silicone
grease.
Smooth-jaw adjustable wrench Screwdrivers, standard and Phillips

Pliers Electrical tape
Pipe wrench Faucet washers
Brass screws Stem
Silicone grease or petroleum jelly Seat dressing tool
Seat Seat wrench
Silicone rubber sealant or pipe compound Socket wrench
Packing O-rings
Repair Kit Cartridges
Disc assembly Manufacturer's instruction sheet
Penetrating oil Locking plier/wrench
Cleaning cloths Hand cleaner
this brochure has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions on how to replHCI sink, bath and shower faucets. Following these and
manufacturer instructions can help you save time, money and effort. It can also help you end up with a
neater, more satisfactory installation. In this document you will find information about:
Purchase the Correct Faucet

Use the Correct Tools
Converting from Iron Pipe to Copper Tubing
Replacing Faucets with Soldered Ends
Installing 4" Faucet without Pop-up Drain
Installing 4" Faucet with Pop-up Drain
Installing Combination Faucet with Pop-up Drain
Installing Common Sink Faucets
Installing Bath and Shower Faucets
Lead Warning
PURCHASE THE CORRECT FAUCET
There are many sizes, types and styles of faucets. Be sure you
purchase the correct faucet when replacing an existing one since
many faucets are not interchangeable.
FIG. 1 - Take an exact measurement of the
holes for the faucet, center to center. Before purchasing a replHCIment faucet, take an exact
measurement of the holes for the faucet, center to center (Fig. 1).
Also, remove the old faucet and take it along to the store when
purchasing the new fixture.
There are many different types of mixer faucets. Use care in

selecting the correct onethe style is optional, but the size must be
correct.
Before installing the new faucet, carefully read the

manufacturer's instructions for installation. It's important to
follow them exactly.
USE THE CORRECT TOOLS
It's important to use the proper tools when removing stubborn

plumbing fixtures. Fig. 2 shows the variety of wrenches designed
for specific plumbing jobs.
You'll usually need two pipe wrenches (Stillson wrenches) on a

plumbing job. One is used for holding, the other for turning. Use
pipe wrenches only on pipes. The teeth in the jaws of pipe
wrenches bite into the metal and can mar chrome-finished nuts
and pipe.
Open-end wrenches and adjustable wrenches have smooth jaws

and can be used for square or hex nuts. These wrenches are ideal
for working with the interior parts of faucets and valves.
A closet spud wrench is a special thin wrench made to fit into

tight plHCIs (Fig. 2).
You can use strap wrenches instead of a pipe wrench when

FIG. 2 - Removing plumbing fixtures is easier if
working with chrome-coated pipe if a regular pipe wrench might
you use the right tool.
mar the surfHCI.
Vise grip wrenches are ideal for holding and working with pipe
of small diameter.
Use basin wrenches to remove or tighten nuts and hose couplings

under sinks and lavatories. Its alternate positions enable you to
reach nuts that would ordinarily be inaccessible to other
wrenches.
CONVERTING FROM IRON PIPE TO COPPER TUBING
In most cases, you'll want to convert from iron pipe to plastic or

copper. Check your local code. Both copper and plastic require
no threading.
Attach copper pipe to threaded pipe with a transition union (Fig.

3). Half of the union is threaded onto the old iron pipe. The other
half is soldered to the copper pipe. The two halves are then
FIG. 3 - For reliable results use transition unions threaded together. This type of fitting is also available for
when changing from iron to copper or plastic or connecting iron to plastic and copper to plastic using solvent
from copper to plastic. cement or mechanical connections.
REPLACING FAUCETS WITH SOLDERED ENDS
To replHCI an ordinary faucet with a soldered end, first remove

the old faucet by applying heat or cutting. Clean the end of the
pipe thoroughly.
Remove the stem of the faucet to protect the seat washer (Fig. 4).
Apply heat to the pipe with an ordinary propane heat torch.
Then, apply solder and reassemble the faucet. Use a solder that
has no lead.
FIG. 4 - Remove the stem and apply solder. You can apply an ordinary faucet of the same type to threaded
pipe by applying a pipe compound or Teflon tape to the pipe
threads and then attaching the faucet to the threads.
INSTALLING 4" FAUCET WITHOUT POP-UP DRAIN
The 4" lavatory faucet without a pop-up drain is relatively simple

to install. PlHCI plumber's putty in the groove just underneath
the chrome framing to provide a tight seal (Fig. 5).
Insert the shanks of the lavatory faucet into the holes of the
lavatory. Attach the locknuts and the washer to the shank and
tighten them firmly into plHCI.
Remove any excess putty from the base of the faucet. Connect
the shank to the water supply and tighten.
FIG. 5 - The 4" lavatory faucet without a pop-up
drain is relatively easy to install in your bathroom.
INSTALLING 4" FAUCET WITH POP-UP DRAIN
Installing the 4" lavatory faucet with pop-up drain is more

challenging.
Start by carefully reading the instructions that came with the

faucet.
First, remove the old faucet and pop-up drain (Fig. 6).
Insert the new faucet into position. Add putty in the groove
around the base of the faucet.
Slip the washer over the shank and thread the locknut up the
shank, placing the faucet loosely in position.
Insert the drain plunger into the center hole and affix the
adjustment bar to the drain plunger.
PlHCI the pop-up drain body in position and attach it to the

FIG. 6 - The 4" lavatory faucet with a pop-up
drain is a more challenging installation. adjustment bar. Tighten all nuts and attach the faucet to the water
system. Attach the pop-up drain body to the drain system.
PlHCI the stopper in the drain body and work the drain plunger.
Make any adjustments by moving the lever assembly up or down
in the holes provided.
INSTALLING COMBINATION FAUCET WITH POP-UP

DRAIN
Installing the combination lavatory faucet with pop-up drain is

much the same as the 4" lavatory faucet. (Fig. 7)
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for the

step-by-step installation.
The main difference in this installation is that most models

require the faucet handles, flanges and faucets to be removed.
The assembly is then inserted from underneath the lavatory
frame.
FIG. 7 - Combination lavatory faucet with pop-up

drain.
INSTALLING COMMON SINK FAUCETS
Most sink faucets are of the mixer variety, where the hot and
cold water are mixed and brought into the sink through one
swing spout.
The typical mixer-type faucet also comes equipped with a spray

hose (Fig. 8).
Mixer faucets for kitchen sinks are usually 8", although they are
also available in 6" and 4" sizes. There are two basic typesthe
exposed deck, shown in Fig. 8, and the concealed deck. The
exposed deck has a chrome housing above the sink, while the
concealed deck has only a flange exposed just below the faucet
FIG. 8 - The mixer-type faucet combines hot and handles.
cold water through a swing spout.
All faucets come with manufacturers' installation instructions.
Read these instructions carefully and follow each step for a good
installation.
If instructions are unavailable, you can follow the same basic

instructions given for installing a lavatory faucet.
INSTALLING BATH AND SHOWER FAUCETS
The first challenge in installing bath and shower faucets is

getting the faucet assemblies behind the wall.
Most home builders provide a rear access panel. By removing

this panel, you can connect fittings without defacing the
bathroom wall. These panels are usually located in closets in
back of the tub.
The two-valve faucet assembly is the most common assembly for

bathtubs. If instructions are unavailable, study Fig. 9 to help you
make such an installation without too much trouble.
The two-valve shower assembly is the basic faucet arrangement

used only for shower assemblies.
This arrangement is used when the faucets are installed

separately and apart from the taps that supply water to the tub
(Fig. 10).
The three-valve diverter with shower head and spout provides

water both to the shower and to the tub.
With this assembly, the hot and cold water taps are turned to
bring water into the tub. Then, when the proper mix of hot and
FIG. 9 - The two-valve faucet assembly is the cold is reached, the diverter valve is turned to bring the water
most common assembly for bathtubs. through the shower head (Fig. 11).
There are two basic types of two-valve diverters. One has a twin
ell diverter spout (Fig. 12). The water is first mixed by letting it
run into the tub. It is then diverted through the shower head by
the twin ell diverter spout.
Another type of two-valve diverter has a shower head and ejector

tee diverter (Fig. 13). This works in basically the same way as
the twin ell, but the water is diverted by means of a tee rather
than by the twin ell.
Many older homes have lead pipe water systems. Many newer
homes have copper pipe water systems that have been soldered
together with solder containing lead.
FIG. 10 - The two-valve shower assembly is

used when the faucets and taps are installed
separately.
FIG. 11 - The three-valve diverter with shower
head and spout provides water to the shower and
tub.
FIG. 12 - Water is first mixed in the tub with the

two-valve diverter with shower head and twin ell.
FIG. 13 - The two-valve diverter with shower
head and ejector tee diverter spout diverts water
with a tee.
LEAD WARNING
Lead can leach into the drinking water system from the corrosion
of materials in plumbing and distribution systems that contain
lead. Exposure to lead may cause brain and nervous disorders,
anemia, high blood pressure, kidney and reproductive problems,
decreased red blood cells, slower reflexes and even death. The
lead collects in the kidneys, liver and brain. Unlike many other
chemicals, once lead enters a person's system, it cannot be
removed. Exposure to even small amounts over a period of years
can cause irreversible damage.
When working on a plumbing project, always use lead-free

solder.
In normal use, if it has been six hours since the water system was
used, turn on the water and let it run for a few minutes before
drawing water to use for drinking or cooking. However, there is
no need to waste this water. It may be used for such things as
watering plants.
Additional information is available from the Environmental

Protection Agency's Safe Drinking Water hotline at 1-800-426-
4791. It can also provide information about certified laboratories
that test for lead in drinking water.
Pipe Wrench Basin Wrench
Solder Propane Torch
Sandpaper or Emery Cloth Plumber's Putty
Screwdriver Penetrating Oil
Hand Cleaner Adjustable Smooth Jaw Wrench
Pipe Cutter Vise
Flaring Tool Pipe Compound or Teflon Tape
Vise-Grip Pliers Hammer
Transition Unions Solvent Cement
in this document.

Here are easy-to-follow instructions on how to unstop clogged drains, toilets and sewers. Read these
instructions carefully before undertaking these jobs.
If any part of the instructions is unclear, call or visit your retailer and ask for further information.
UNSTOPPING CLOGGED SINK DRAINS
If the drain is sluggish but not completely clogged, turn on the

hot water tap for 5 to 10 minutes. This sometimes opens the
drain.
If running hot water does not open the sluggish drain, try an
environmentally safe chemical drain opener. Such cleaners are
available in several forms, and they are made primarily from
caustic soda with bauxite and other ingredients. Read the label
on the drain cleaner and follow manufacturer's instructions.
After using any chemical cleaner, flush it from the drain pipes
by allowing hot water to run for at least 10 minutes.
FIG. 1 - Remove the sink's strainer basket OPENING COMPLETELY CLOGGED DRAINS
before using a plunger.
In some cases, using a simple suction cup will open a clogged

sink drain.
First, remove the basket strainer from the drain (Fig. 1).
Run hot water until it stands about 2" deep in the sink.
Take a suction cup plunger and pump it up and down directly

over the clogged drain. The water in the sink provides a seal. If
the suction cup does not clear the drain in a few minutes, you
will probably be forced to remove some of the pipes to get the
job done.
FIG. 2 - Put a pail under the trap and remove
the cleanout plug. If you cannot open the drain with the suction cup, set a pail
underneath the sink trap and remove the cleanout plug and
washer (Fig. 2). If the drain is only slightly clogged, a few quick
probes with a screwdriver may solve the problem.
If the screwdriver doesn't open it, use a snake or drain auger

through the pipe. A drain auger works best if you rotate it, feed it
in a short distance, and then rotate it again. This enables the
drain auger to be inserted deeply into the pipe.
After the drain pipe is opened, replHCI the cleanout plug and
washer. Run scalding water through the pipe to carry away any
accumulations.
UNSTOPPING CLOGGED LAVATORY DRAINS
If the lavatory drain is only slightly clogged, try opening it by

removing the drain stopper and probing for hair and other debris
with a short piece of wire.
If this doesn't work, try a plunger. Since your lavatory drain has
an overflow outlet, you'll need to plug it with tape or rags before
using a plunger (Fig. 3). After plugging the overflow drain, use
the plunger exactly as you would in opening an ordinary sink.
FIG. 3 - Plug any overflow pipes before using a
plunger.
If the wire and plunger treatments do not work, use a sink auger
or plumber's snake. You may be able to do this without removing
the sink trap (Fig. 4).
If none of these efforts works, set a pail under the lavatory and
remove the trap (Fig. 5). Cover the chrome nut with tape or a rag
to prevent marring by the wrench.
Loosen the thumbscrew on the plumber's snake and move the

handle back about 3' (Fig. 6). Insert the snake into the drainpipe,
rotate the auger, feed it in, then rotate again. This allows you to
drive the snake deeply into the drainpipe.
FIG. 4 - A clogged drain can sometimes be
opened with a snake without removing the trap.
FIG. 5 - Cover the chrome nuts with tape to

prevent marring.
FIG. 6 - Loosen the thumb screw and move the
handle about 3' from the end of the snake.
UNSTOPPING BATHTUB DRAINS
To unstop bathtub drains, try the running hot water, the plunger,
or the chemical method. Remember to plug the overflow outlet
before using a plunger.
If the chemical, the plunger, or the hot water treatments do not

open the clogged drain, you'll need to remove the trap located
under the tub. If the tub is on the first floor with crawl spHCI or
FIG. 7 - The drum trap is usually mounted basement access to the pipes, this can be relatively easy.
under the tub.
In older homes this trap will be a drum trap (Fig. 7) which has a
removable top. This top often becomes corroded and may be
very difficult to remove. Apply penetrating oil to the top and let
it set for a few minutes. Then use a large wrench to remove the
top. If that fails, a hameer and punch may be necessary to do the
job.
Tubs in newer homes usually have a tubular trap. The bottom

portion of this trap can be removed by loosing the two large nuts
that hold it in plHCI. Prior to loosing these nuts hang a pail
under the trap to catch any water that is in the trap.
After you have removed the trap or the cover check for debris in
Fig. 8 - Click above image for larger the trap itself and in the pipes leading to and from the trap. In tub
view drains clogs of hair and soap are quite commonplHCI. A pair of
rubber gloves might be a good idea here.
After you have removed the clog and resealed the drain, run hot
water through the drain for a few minutes. This will allow you to
check the operation of the drain and to flush any remaining
debris from the drain.
OPENING A CLOGGED TOILET
In most cases you can open a clogged toilet using a force ball-
type plunger (A, Fig. 9). A regular suction cup plunger will
seldom do the job (B). A force ball-type plunger exerts a great
deal more pressure for cleaning toilets than the regular type.
Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the
plunger.
If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet auger
(Fig. 10). Start the auger or snake into the bowl and continue to
crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and pulling action
will usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.
If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake in the same
FIG. 9 - Use a force ball type plunger to open a
clogged toilet. way as described for opening lavatory drains.
If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake removes the
obstruction, you may need to remove the toilet from the floor,
turn it upside down, and force the obstruction out from the top or
bottom.
If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use either a wax
preformed O-ring or fresh plumber's putty in reseating the toilet.
FIG. 10 - Use a closet auger if the force ball
plunger doesn't unstop the toilet.
OPENING CLOGGED SEWERS
In older construction there were three basic causes for clogged

sewers. These were excessive mortar (Fig. 11) left at soil pipe
joints, roots (Fig. 12) from trees and plants and broken pipes.
In both new and old construction, broken pipes (Fig. 13) allow
foreign matter to enter the drainage system. This can often cause
clogging.
FIG. 10 - Excessive mortar at soil pipe joints
can cause a build-up. Clogged sewers in newer construction are often limited to broken
pipes and poor design or construction. Using the wrong fittings
during construction or allowing too little slope in the drain run
can cause the drain to become clogged.
To open a clogged sewer, set a container just underneath the

cleanout plug (Fig. 14). Loosen the plug just enough to permit
water and waste to flow into the container.
When all the water and waste have drained out, remove the plug
and insert a cleanout tape.
FIG. 10 - Water-seeking roots often enter pipes Rotate the reel clockwise as you unroll it, and push the tape
at the joints.
forward into the sewer pipes (Fig. 14).
FIG. 10 - Broken soil pipes can lead to

clogging.
FIG. 10 - Rotate the wheel clockwise as you
unroll it, and push it forward.
Closet Auger Suction Cup Plunger
Force Ball Plunger Penetrating Oil
O-RingsAssorted Sizes Work Gloves
Hammer Plumbing Wrenches
Chemical Drain Cleaner Plumber's Snake or Drain Auger
Graphite Packing Plastic or Galvanized Pail
Hand Cleaner Punch or Cold Chisel
Hacksaw Sewer Cleanout Tape
in this document.

Did you know that as much as 80,000 gallons of water can be wasted each year by an undetected toilet
tank leak? It makes economic and environmental sense to occasionally check the toilets around your
home. Even for older ballcock/flush ball toilet tank valves, a full line of replHCIment parts is still
widely available. Or, you can install modern plastic devices instead of repairing the original parts.
Fig. 1 shows the basic working parts of the old-style ballcock/flush valve toilet tank (a) and the modern
tank with plastic valves (b).
CHECK FOR LEAKS
Most toilet flush tanks work in the same way. The tank contains
two valvesa flush valve and a refill valve. One type of refill
valve is commonly called a ballcock.
When the flush valve fails to seat properly, water is leaked from
the tank into the bowl. The leaked tank water is replenished by
the refill valve, causing a continuous flow of wasted water.
If the refill valve leaks, the tank overfills, and the excess water
runs from the overflow pipe into the toilet bowl. A waterlogged
float causes overflowing, even if the refill valve itself is
functioning properly.
You can check for a leaky flush valve very simply, as shown in
Fig. 2. Shut off the water supply to the toilet. The shutoff valve
is located beneath the tank on the left side as you fHCI the toilet.
FIG. 1 - Your toilet tank contains two valve
Mark the water level, then check it again in 20 minutes. If the
assembliesa flush valve and a refill valve. This water level has fallen below your mark, the flush valve is
drawing shows ballcock/flush ball valves (a) and leaking. If not, the flush valve did not leak, and you know that
modern plastic valves (b). any leaks are being caused by the refill valve.
To check both the flush valve and the refill valve for leaking,
simply drop some food coloring or laundry bluing into the toilet
tank to color the water. Do this when the tank is fully refilled
after a flush. Don't flush the tank again until you have inspected
the toilet bowla few minutes laterfor signs of color. If the bowl
water has a hue, there's a leak.
FIG. 2 - To check for a leaky flush valve, turn

off the toilet's water supply, and make a mark on
the side of the tank at water level and check it in
10 to 20 minutes to determine if it stays filled.
SIMPLE ADJUSTMENTS
Your toilet tank may simply need a good "tune-up." Here are
FIG. 3 - To adjust the water level on a some adjustments you can make.
conventional toilet tank, bend the float arm down
to lower or up to raise.
Refill valve. If your tank has a conventional ballcock refill
valve, the water level is adjusted by bending the float arm (Fig.
3). The level should be high enough for complete flushes, but the
water should not be to the top of the overflow pipe. Your tank
should have a colored or molded water level mark. It should
never be set so low that the bowl does not refill with trap sealing
water. The rule of thumb is to set the water level about 3/4"
below the top of the overflow pipe.
If the float rubs on other parts, simply adjust the float arm
sideways. If the float lacks buoyancy, unscrew then shake it to
determine if it is waterlogged. A waterlogged float should be
replHCId. The float arm can also be replHCId, if needed.
In tanks using modern plastic refill valves, the tank water level is
FIG. 4 - One widely-used plastic refill valve has adjusted in other ways. If your tank uses a hand nut, turn the nut
a pinch clamp to control the water level. Slide clockwise to raise, or counterclockwise to lower, the water level.
the clamp up to raise the level or down to lower it.
Or, your tank may have a sliding pinch clamp on an adjustment
rod (Fig. 4).
Flush valve. ReplHCIments for a flush ball and its actuating

mechanism are available, but it may be possible to stop a leak
with minor adjustments. Check the following mechanisms before
purchasing replHCIments.
See that the guide arm is centered directly over the seat. The
guide arm should drop the flush ball directly into its seat. If the
flush ball is not seating properly, make the adjustment shown in
Fig. 5.
FIG. 5 - The flush ball's guide arm must drop
the flush ball directly into its seat. To center the
The guide arm should allow the flush ball to rise enough for a
guide arm, loosen the set screw and rotate it on complete flush. If not, raise the arm. Be careful that it isn't too
the overflow pipe. highthen it will prevent the ball from closing completely.
Check that the upper lift wire pulls the flush ball high enough.
To adjust it, simply bend the wire for a higher or lower lift.
The lifting hardware on a flapper-type flush valve should raise

the rubber flapper to start a flush, but should not hold the flapper
up off its seat. If this is occurring, the hardware is adjusted too
short. Some types allow you to slide the flapper itself up or
down on the refill tube to ensure that the flapper meets the valve
seat squarely. The lifting hardware and flapper height
adjustments are the first things to check when flapper problems
arise.
Refill tube. If the bowl-refill tube is out of plHCI, water is

FIG. 6 - The bowl refill tube should be arranged routed directly into the tank, rather than replenishing water in the
to aim into the overflow pipe but should not
reach below water level.
bowl. When this is the case, you will likely hear splashing
sounds during tank refill. The refill tube should aim directly into
the overflow pipe but should not reach below water level. If the
tube extends too low, it will siphon tank water silently away. Fix
it by repositioning as shown in Fig. 6.
Defective refill tubes on some valves can be replHCId with new

plastic ones. Simply plHCI one end of the plastic tube over the
serrated plastic lug on the body of the valve, and plHCI the
plastic holder in the top of the overflow pipe.
FIXING THE FLUSH VALVE
Most toilet tank troubles can be trHCId to a faulty flush valve.

You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1)
FIG. 7 - A lime-encrusted flush valve seat can repair the old flush valve; (2) replHCI the flush ball with a more
be cleaned with steel wool to remove the modern flapper or install a glued-in replHCIment flapper; (3) or
deposits. install a new flush valve.
These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more

simple adjustments were discussed previously.
Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted

with deposits, replHCI it with a new one. Scale deposits on the
seat can be removed with steel wool (Fig. 7) or with No. 500 wet-
FIG. 8 - Mount the replHCIment flapper to the or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be
overpipe replHCId.
You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift
wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If
you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.
Flapper. To replHCI a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from

the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe
(Fig. 8). Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect
the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can
be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet
operation.
FIG. 9 - A glue-in replHCIment flush valve and A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-
seat combination glues into the seat of an old hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten
metal valve and makes a lasting repair to some (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replHCIment
valves without removal. Follow the trip handle.
manufacturer's directions.
Glue-in repair kit. Many replHCIment flush valves simply glue
in plHCI on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are
available, not every type of flush can be replHCId by these
devices (Fig. 9).
On single-piece toilet tankswith a flush valve held in plHCI with

flanges that fit inside the openingthe flapper-ball may bind and
prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets,
this problem does not occur.
Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow
the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right
kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your
toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.
INSTALLING A NEW FLUSH VALVE
Flush valves are held to the tank by one large jam nut on the
bottom of the tank. Installing a new flush valve usually requires
removing the toilet tank from the bowl, which can be rather
complicated. However, wall-mounted tanks may not need to be
removed.
FIG. 10 - A new flush valve fits the hold in the
bottom of the toilet tank. the rubber gasket goes
If the toilet tank must be removed, turn the water off completely,
on the inside; the washer fits on the outside.
flush the toilet and hold the trip lever down to evacuate most of
the tank water. Use a sponge to remove the remaining water.
Disconnect the tank's inlet fitting from the water supply. If the
flexible riser tube is damaged, replHCI it.
Then, unscrew the two rubber-gasketed bolts flanking the flush

valve. These bolts go through the tank and bowl flange, with nuts
beneath. Use cautionforcing the bolts may cause you to break the
tank, bowl or both. Use plenty of penetrating oil on the threads.
If they still won't budge without force, try wrapping masking
tape around a hacksaw blade and sawing with the teeth facing
you, so the blade cuts on the "pull" stroke. The layer of masking
tape will protect the bowl's glazed surfHCI from saw scratches.
The tank should now lift away from the bowl. Lay it upside-
down on a throw rug or newspaper padding to protect it, and
unscrew the large nut holding the flush valve to the tank. Use
channel-locking pliers plus penetrating oil and extreme care to
avoid breakage. Clamp a well-padded locking plier/wrench
around the flush valve to keep it from rotating inside the tank.
Install the new flush valve (Fig. 10) according to the directions.
The rubber gasket goes on the inside of the tank to prevent
leakage. The flat washer fits on the outside to prevent tank
damage.
Use new brass tank hold-down bolts, which will remain
workable. Tighten the bolts just enough to compress the tank's
soft rubber gasket and keep it from leaking.
Install the water supply riser to the tank and turn on the water.
FIXING THE REFILL VALVE
Brass-style toilet refill valves can often be repaired. To take a

valve apart, remove the lever's screws. This allows you to lift out
the float arm and valve plunger. Check the flat rubber washer on
the end of the plunger. If it's worn, you can pull it out with pliers
and either turn it around or replHCI it. This procedure usually
corrects an overfilling problem. Next, reassemble the valve. If
the tank continues to overfill, check to make sure the operating
FIG. 11 - A new refill valve fits into the hold in lever at the end of the float arm is functioning properly.
the left side of the tank.
New refill valve. To replHCI the entire refill valve assembly,
first turn off the water supply. The tank should then be flushed
and sponged out, as detailed previously. Remove the inlet nut
and riser tube from the bottom of the refill valve beneath the
tank. Hold the refill valve inside the tank with a padded locking
plier/wrench to keep it from turning, and remove the nut beneath
the tank. With the nut off, the refill valve assembly can be lifted
out and a new one inserted in its plHCI (Fig. 11). Follow the
exact instructions included with the unit you purchase.
Finally, reconnect the riser tube and turn the water on. The tank
should fill, allowing you to adjust the water level according to
the instructions that were included with the valve.
Anti-siphon valves. The best refill valves offer anti-siphon

protection. In fact, this may be a requirement. This protection
prevents back siphonage of toilet tank water into your home's
potable water supply system if a vacuum occurs in the toilet's
water supply system. Whether or not this is a code requirement,
the anti-siphon valve is a good idea to protect your family and
public health.
Adjustable Wrench Pliers
Pipe Wrench Locking Plier/Wrench
Channel-Locking Pliers Screwdriver
Refill Valve Flush Valve
Ballcock Parts Flush Ball
Flapper Float
Riser Tube Sponge
Penetrating Oil Hacksaw
Masking Tape Hand Cleaner
Wiping Cloths
in this document.

Changing your toilet is an easy project that should take half a day or less. The most common toilet has
a separate tank that mounts on top of the bowl. These instructions apply most specifically to this type of
toilet. If you have an integral tank/bowl toilet, a flush valve or a wall-mounted toilet, your procedure
will vary somewhat.
Whatever kind of toilet you use as a replHCIment, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Fig. 1 shows
the parts of a typical toilet.
PREPARATION FOR THE REPLHCIMENT
Before purchasing your new toilet, measure the distance from the
rearmost bowl hold-down bolts to the finished wall behind the
toilet. This is called the toilet's rough-in (Fig. 2). Most toilets are
designed with a 12" rough-in. Ask your retailer for help if your
rough-in varies.
The first step is to turn off the toilet's water supply. Then flush
the toilet to empty its tank, holding the trip-lever down to let all
the water run out. Sop out any remaining water in the tank and
bowl with a spongemake sure they're both empty.
FIG. 1 - Most toilets have a separate tank that

mounts on top of the bowl.
FIG. 2 - Check the toilet's rough-in to be sure
it's the standard 12" from the rear hold-down
bolts to the finished wall behind the toilet.
REMOVING THE OLD TOILET
Use a large, adjustable open-end wrench to unthread the

coupling nut between the toilet tank and its water supply. You
may need to hold the fill valve with pliers from inside the tank to
keep it from turning.
Now you're ready to remove the original tank. Most are held to
the bowl by two long bolts. The nuts are located beneath the
FIG. 3 - You can pry off bowl-matching trim flange at the rear of the toilet bowl. Fig. 11 shows how to work
caps by lifting under one end with a putty knife or
screwdriver.
with these.
With the bolts out, you can lift the tank clear of the bowl.
If your toilet tank mounts to the wall and feeds the bowl with a
large, sweeping elbow, first remove the elbow. Use a trap
wrench or water pump pliers for the slip jam nuts. Or, you can
simply saw the elbow with a hacksaw.
Now you can remove the tank from the wall. As you unscrew
the tank from the wall, support it so it doesn't fall.
Next, take out the toilet bowl. Typically, the bowl is fastened to
the floor with two hold-down bolts and nuts beneath trim caps.
FIG. 4 - Keep sewer gases out of the house and Some toilet bowls have four hold-downs.
debris out of the piping by stuffing a rag into the
toilet's floor flange opening. Pry off each trim cap to expose the bolts and nuts (Fig. 3).
Unscrew the nuts. If you have trouble, you can saw them off. A
mini-hacksaw works best, or you can use a regular hacksaw. To
protect the bowl's finish from the saw teeth, use masking tape.
Now loosen the bowl/seat unit by rocking it to break its seal with
the floor and toilet flange. Once loosened, you can lift the bowl
and carry it out of the house. Be sure to hold the bowl level to
avoid spilling any trap-sealing water. You may need help to lift
the tank and bowl together. Lift it properly with your back
straight and put the weight on your legs.
Stuff rags in the toilet flange opening to keep sewer gases out of
the house and debris out of the soil pipe while you work (Fig 4).
PREPARING TO INSTALL THE NEW TOILET
To get ready for the new toilet, first do a complete cleanup.

Remove any old putty and wax from the floor and toilet flange.
You can use a screwdriver or putty knife. Clean the floor
thoroughly in case the new toilet's footprint is different. Remove
FIG. 5 - Modern supply valves are compatible the old hold-down boltsdon't reuse them. You may want to clean
with flexible riser tubes for supplying the toilet's and paint the wall behind the toilet. If you're going to replHCI
flush water.
the bathroom floorcovering, this is an excellent opportunity.
At this point, install any new water supply plumbing you plan to
add. A new fixture supply valve and flexible riser tube is easy to
install and offers shutoff convenience later. The valve attaches to
a short length of water supply pipe coming from the wall or
floor. Have the riser tube handy but out of the way of the new
tank.
Also, inspect the toilet flange for sound condition. It should stick
up about 1/2" from the finished bathroom floor.
FIG. 6 - Install the hold-down bolts with some Temporarily set the toilet in position on the floor over the flange
putty to make them stand upright in the toilet to check for levelness. Check it front-to-back and side-to-side. If
flange. necessary, shim under the bowl with non-rusting metal washers.
Install a new pair of toilet hold-down bolts. If there are holes or

slots for the bolts in the toilet flange, they should be inserted in
the openings (Fig. 6). In a cast iron piping system, the hold-
downs screw directly into the wood floor. Whatever the
situation, your retailer should have them. Don't try to use
ordinary bolts. Install the bolts so they are the same distance
from the rear wall.
FIG. 7 - Fix a new wax toilet gasket over the

bowl's outlet horn, with the flat side against the PUTTING IN THE NEW BOWL
bowl.
Toilet installation goes pretty much the reverse of removal.
Handle the bowl and tank with care, since they can crack and
chip easily.
Start by inverting the new bowl (or bowl/tank unit) onto a thick,
protective padding of newspapers on the floor.
Seal the toilet to its soil pipe flange at the floor by placing a
ready-made wax toilet ring gasket over the bowl's outlet horn
(Fig. 7). The gasket should be room temperature, and the flat
fHCI should go against the bowl. If the gasket has a sleeve, it
FIG. 8 - Hold the toilet bowl in position directly should fHCI away from the bowl. Don't try to reuse the old
above its floor flange, then lower it into plHCI.
gasketinstall a new one.
Two kinds of wax gaskets are available: those with plastic

sleeves and those without.
The bowl-to-floor joint must be sealed around the edge of the

bowl's base, too. You can lay a bead of plumber's putty so it will
be squeezed between the toilet and floor. Or, use about 2 lbs. of
plaster. Another choice is to caulk the joint with bathtub caulk/
sealant. This is probably the easiest method. Ask your retailer to
recommend a good caulk for this.
Remove the rag from the toilet flange opening. Now you're ready
to set the bowl.
FIG. 9 - Hand-tighten the bowl's hold-down
nuts. A wrench may break the bowl.
Hold the bowl upright several inches off the floor so its outlet
horn is directly above the toilet flange. Then lower it gently (Fig.
8). The hold-down bolts should pass through their openings in
the bowl base, and the wax gasket and toilet flange should meet.
To set the bowl onto the floor as well as onto its gasket, rock it
carefully from front to back and side to side while pushing down
hard. You can rotate it a few degrees each way, too. This forces
out the excess wax. As the bowl meets the floor, make sure it is
level and square with the rear wall. Don't raise the bowl from the
floor while making adjustments, or you'll have to go through the
setting process all over again and replHCI the waxing.
Drop washers over the hold-down bolts and thread on the brass
nuts. Tighten the nuts finger-tight only (Fig. 8). Using a wrench
at this point can break the bowl. Re-check boths nuts for
tightness after several days of use.
If the bowl has front-mounting holes, install two toilet studs with
washers and nuts into the floor for the front two holes.
INSTALLING THE TANK
If the toilet tank hardware comes separately, install it.

Remember that the trip lever nut probably has left-hand threads.
Now take the rubber spud washer, which fits between the tank
and bowl, and set it squarely into the flush valve opening in the
bottom of the tank. The washer goes beveled side out (Fig. 10).
If there is a rubber tank cushion, set that in plHCI on the bowl.
FIG. 10 - Set the spud washer over the flush-
valve outlet on the bottom of the tank. Then pick up the tank and lower it gently into plHCI on the
back of the bowl.
Install the two long brass tank-mounting bolts from inside the
tank, sliding them down through the aligned holes. PlHCI two
rubber washers against the tank and bowl (Fig. 12). Draw the
washers and nuts up gently and evenly until they are snug. This
finishes your bowl installation.
FIG. 11 - Be careful when tightening the tank-
mounting bolts to keep from breaking the tank or
bowl.
FIG. 12 - The illustration shows how to arange

the washers on the tank-mounting bolts.
FINISHING UP
Connect the tank's water supply to the inlet valve on the bottom
left-hand side of the tank (as you fHCI it). You'll probably have
a coupling nut for doing this. The nut threads onto the inlet and
works perfectly with a flat-ended riser tube. Don't use any pipe
dope on these threads.
Turn on the water and observe the toilet tank as it fills. If there
are any leaks, further tightening should cure them. Check to see
that the tank fills to the correct level, about 3/4" below the top
of the overflow tube.
Tighten the bowl hold-down bolts one turn (no more) beyond
hand-tight. Cut off the ends, if necessary, and install the trim
caps. You can fill their recesses with plumber's putty (or bathtub
caulk/sealant) and press them down over the bolts. Clean up any
material that oozes out.
Then, smooth and clean up the excess sealant around the bowl's
base.
Now you can test-flush the toilet, checking for water leaks at the
floor.
Install the new toilet seat and tank cover, and your installation is
complete.
Toilet Bowl and Tank Toilet Seat
Bowl Gasket Hold-Down Bolts, Washers, Nuts
Trim Caps (if not with toilet) Plumber's Putty
Bathtub Caulk/Sealant Supply Valve

Flat-Ended Riser Tube Adjustable Open-End Wrenches
Trap Wrench/Water Pump Pliers Large Screwdriver
Mini-Hacksaw Sponge
Rustproof Washers
in this document.

One of the most common household plumbing projects is replacing a water heater. Many potential
dangers can result from improper water heater installation. Be sure to check your local codes. Use only
the procedures and materials your code allows. This booklet covers replHCIment of natural gas, LP gas
and electric water heaters, the most common types.
FIG. 1 - The most common overhead-plumbed REMOVING YOUR OLD HEATER

gas water heater hookup. you must comply with
all applicable codes.
The most common overhead-plumbed water heater hookup is
shown in Fig. 1. Before your can connect the new heater, the old
one must be removed.
First, turn off the gas or electricity to the heater.
Next, drain the heater (Fig. 2). Open a hot water faucet to allow
air into the system.
On a gas heater, separate the vent pipe from the draft hood. The
hood should lift off after you remove the sheet metal screw that
holds it. After checking that the pilot light is out, disconnect the
FIG. 2 - Connect a garden hose to the drain
gas line at the heater and cap it.
valve of your old heater and run it outdoors or to
a drain.
Next, remove the heater from its water piping. If the pipes are
connected with unionsremovable threaded fittingstake them apart
with a pair of pipe wrenches. Pipes without unions must be
hacksawed off (Fig. 3). A pipe/tubing cutter will also do the job.
The old heater can now be removed and disposed of in an
approved manner.
FIG. 3 - For pipes not connected with unions,
saw off the riser pipes above the heater.
INSTALLING THE NEW HEATER
Move your new heater to its location by "walking" it or by using

an appliance cart, dolly, or hand truck.
Position the new heater so your pipingparticularly a gas vent

pipewill reach easily.
For a gas heater, install the heater's new draft hood. Many
heaters have legs that insert into holes on the heater's top (Fig.
FIG. 4 - Legs of the draft hood slip into holes 4). Every gas water heater needs proper venting that's no smaller
on top of the heater. than the draft hood collar of the new heater. It's a good idea to
use new vent pipe elbows, since the old ones are probably
corroded at their present angles. The vent should go straight up
as far as possible. Any horizontal run in the vent should slope
upward at least 1/4" per foot, as shown in Fig. 5. Connect the
vent pipe with short sheet metal screws (Fig. 6).
Now you can make the hot and cold water connections. The type
of materials you use will depend on your local code and the type
of material used in the existing system. One of the easiest ways
to make these connections is using flex-connectors. Flex-
FIG. 5 - Horizontal runs of vent pipe should connectors are easy to bend to reach the connection.
slope upward at least 1/4" per foot to properly
vent gases. The water piping is handled depending on whether your house
has threaded metal, sweat-soldered copper, or thermoplastic
piping, and whether the piping is 3/4" or 1/2". Whatever the
piping, the heater should be fitted with a cold water gate valve
(Fig. 7). PlHCI the valve in a vertical section of piping to keep it
from becoming fouled with sediment.
For threaded pipe, you should have a union on both the hot and
cold water lines. Old unions should be replHCId. The two halves
of a union are manufactured to fit together properly; replHCI the
entire union. You will need new nipples for the top of the water
heater. Their length will depend on the distance from the fittings
FIG. 6 - Use one sheet metal screw to secure on the top of the water heater to the unions. Allow for the
each vent pipe joint and the joint with the draft distance the pipe threads into the fittings.
hood.
Unions are not necessary with flex-connectors. Use Teflon tape
(but not pipe dope) on the male threads entering the flex-
connectors. If your water heater has female-threaded tappings,
you'll need a pair of 3/4" nipples to accept the flex-connectors at
the bottom. If the heater comes with 3/4" male-threaded stubs,
the nipples are not needed. At the top, the flex-connectors fit
directly to the ends of the threaded pipes (or a male adapter for
converting to copper or plastic). Some flex-connectors install to
copper tubing without sweat-soldering. If you sweat-solder, be
sure to do this before installing the flex-connectors to avoid
damage to the connector gaskets. Unions are usually not needed
FIG. 7 - Unions and gate valves make water with flex-connectors.
heater installations and maintenance much
easier. Thermoplastic pipe. Flex-connectors are not necessary with
CPVC or PB plastic pipe. You'll need "transition unions"
between the metal heater threads and the plastic piping. Some
plastic fitting manufacturers also call for using foot-long
threaded steel nipples between the water heater and the transition
unions to distance the unions from conducted burner heat. You
can use rigid CPVC tubing, solvent welding the joints. Or you
can use flexible PB pipe, joining the joints with mechanical
couplings (Fig. 8). PB cannot be solvent welded. Don't try to
hook up a water heater with PVC, PE or ABS plastic piping,
since these will not take hot water.
FIG. 8 - Flexible PB tube may be used to
connect a water heater. Be sure to install
transition unions and the proper adapters.
RELIEF SYSTEM
A vital part of your water heater installation is a temperature and

pressure relief valve and relief line. The relief system lets off
excess heat and pressure automatically (Fig. 9).
With all the plumbing connected, you can close the heater's drain
valve and open the cold water inlet valve to fill the storage tank.
Open a hot water faucet to release trapped air in the top of the
FIG. 9 - Always install a new temperature and
tank. Close the faucet soon since water flows readily from it. Be
presure relief valve in your water heater.
sure to check for leaks.
ENERGY HOOKUPS
The last step in completing the installation is to connect the gas

or electric lines to your heater.
Gas connections. If there was no shut-off valve on the gas line

before, add one. A new union should be used to complete the
gas line installation with threaded pipe. For flex-connectors,
install a male flare adapter into the inlet opening of the heater's
gas valve. Connect the gas flex-connector collar to the flare
adapter (no dope or tape), and tighten it with an adjustable open-
end wrench. If everything is ready, see that the thermostat is in
the off position. Then you can turn the gas on.
Electrical connections. The wires serving an electric water

heater must be the right size, providing the proper voltage and
amperage your heater is designed for. Hire a qualified
electrician to wire the heater, unless you know how to work
with such wiring. When you turn the heater circuit on, check the
electric meter to see that it is spinning. This indicates that the
heater is working.
WATER HEATER SAFETY TIPS
Water that's draining from a heater may be quite hot, so use care.
When sweat-soldering copper tubing, be careful not to start a

fire. Wet any wood that is nearby. Use metal shielding. Make
sure that no gas is leaking. Have a fire extinguisher on hand.
The cold water gate valve must be left open while a water heater
is in use.
Check the relief valve periodically to make sure it opens and

then closes again. Remember that water coming from the relief
pipe may be very hot. The relief line shown in Fig. 1 is a safety
feature. It directs any hot water the relief valve releases toward
the floor. They are required by most local codes.
GAS HEATER SAFETY

FIG. 10 - Give new disturbed gas connections
the soap-bubbles test for leaks. Use stick pipe dope (not Teflon tape) on gas connection threads.
Don't use oil-based compounds.
Double-check to see that the type of gas you have is suited to the
new heater.
Allow the required clearances between the heater and
combustible materials, according to the owner's manual for your
new heater.
Verify that the heater's combustion air needs will be met.
For added safety, put a garage-based water heater up on an 18"

high (minimum) platform, even though this calls for making
plumbing changes. Some codes require a platform-even for
electric heaters. Construct the platform from 2x4s and 5/8"
plywood.
Apply stick pipe dope sparingly to the male threads of the

heater's flare adapter. Keep the dope away from the first two
threads so it won't get into the gas line and foul the gas controls.
Check all new or disturbed gas connections for leaks with a dish
detergent solution (Fig. 10). Never test for gas leaks with a
flame. If you discover any leaks, immediately turn off the gas
and fix them.
Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting

instructions.
It may take some time for air to be purged from the gas lines, and
a flame should be kept at the pilot orifice until the pilot lights.
See that the main burner flame settles down and burns bluish
rather than yellow. The flame shouldn't smoke. Some sizzling is
normal with a cold storage tank. (That's caused by condensed
water dripping onto the hot burner.) But if a puddle of water
forms under the heater, there's a leak.
FIG. 11 - Before touching the bare wires of an ELECTRICAL SAFETY

electric water heater, check them with a neon
test light touched to a good ground to be sure
they are not "live." Don't assume that a switch or circuit breaker has cut off the
electric power. Before you touch any bare wires, with your hands
or tools, check the wires with a 240-volt neon test light. First, be
sure the test light is working by inserting its prods into a
receptacle. It should glow. Then open the access cover to the
FIG. 12 - Electric heating wiring should bond heater junction box and remove the wire nuts or tape from the
the heater to ground (bare or green wire) at the heater's electrical connections carefully without touching them.
green grounding screw near the electrical Contact the test prods between the heater's green grounding
junction box.
screw or other reliable ground and each of the exposed wires in
turn (Fig. 11). Then, touch the prods across the bare wires
themselves. If the test light glows at any time, at least some of
the wires are still "live," indicating that power to the heater is not
off. Call in an electrician before proceeding with the heater
replHCIment. This is critically important, because electricity,
water, and plumbing create a potentially hazardous combination.
It is safe to disconnect the electrical cable serving the heater and
remove it only when you know the wires are dead.
Do not attach aluminum wires to copper ones inside the heater.
See that the heater is properly grounded electrically as in figure

12.
Keep out of the reset and thermostat section of the heater, since
they contain exposed live wiring.
Water Heater T&P Relief Valve
Vent Pipe Fittings Water Pipe Fittings
Gate Valve FlexConnectors: Water, Gas
Unions/Transition Unions 1/2" Flare Adapter
Teflon Plumber's Tape Stick Pipe Dope
Hacksaw or Pipe Cutter Pipe Wrenches
Screwdrivers Adjustable Open-End Wrench
Garden Hose Drill and 1/8" Bit
Soldering Torch Sweat-Soldering Supplies
240-Volt Neon Test Light Appliance Cart, Dolly or Hand Truck

Hand Cleaner
in this document.

Plastic piping and do-it-yourself plumbing go together like hammers and nails. Plastic pipe is easy to cut
and join to its many fittings, and it is widely accepted by plumbing codes. Inside this document you will
find information about:
Meet the Plastics

Solvent Welding
Mechanical Couplings
Installing Plastic Piping
MEET THE PLASTICS
Plastic (more correctly thermoplastic) for plumbing comes two

ways: in pipe sizes and in tubing sizes. While both are sized
nominally according to inside diameter, pipes go by iron-pipe sizes
and tubes go by copper-tube sizes. Pipes and tubes and their
fittings, even in the same designated sizes, should not be
interchanged. With plastic piping, you choose from a wide
selection of materials. Table A shows the plastic plumbing
materials available and describes what each is used for.
Rapid technological advances in plastic plumbing may leave local

plumbing codes outdated. So, before purchasing your materials, it's
a good idea to consult your city or county building officials.
DWV stands for the drain-waste-vent system used to carry wastes

away from your home's fixtures and to vent the system above the
roof. Sewer pipes are made to carry household wastes below
ground to a public sewer or private disposal system. Drainage
pipes are used below ground, too, but are thinner-walled and lower
in cost. They're usually used with non-septic water, such as roof
runoff. Tubular goods are the thin-walled fixture drain and trap
parts used beneath sinks and washbasins.
Only two kinds of plastic tubes can withstand hot water under
pressure: rigid CPVC and flexible PB. The two may be used singly
or together to build corrosion-free, non-electrolytic household
water supply systems. Because plastic pipe is non-conducting, it
cannot be used for electrical grounding.
PVC pressure pipe should be used only for cold water outdoors. It
is ideal for building lawn-watering and irrigation systems. PE pipe
serves a similar purpose but is flexible and cannot be solvent
welded. PE is especially useful as deep-well pipe.
Riser tubes are the highly flexible, small-diameter tubes linking a

water supply system and faucets, making the faucets easier to
connect. Riser tubes often fit directly into an adapter on a fixture
shutoff valve.
Plastic pipes for most uses (except tubular products) are rated by
the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Look for
the ASTM designation on each pipe, tube and fitting that you buy,
signifying that it meets ASTM standards. Water supply piping
should carry the National Sanitation Foundation's "NSF-pw"
approval, meaning the parts are suited for carrying potable, or
drinkable, water.
SOLVENT WELDING
The simple solvent-welding process used to join many plastic

pipes must be done properly to prevent leaks.
Here's how.
Use the two-step methodemploying cleaner/primer and

solventexcept with ABS and styrene, with which the one-step
method (solvent only) is usually enough.
1. Inspect the pipe end and fitting socket for cracks, gouges, dirt
and abrasion. If the pipe end is imperfect, it can be cut back to
expose good material. Discard a damaged fitting.
2. It's a good idea to purchase pipe and fittings made by the same
FIG. 1 - To join the solvent welding plastic pipe manufacturer. If this isn't the case, test-fit them. The pipe should
to its fittings, first cut the pipe and then deburr it enter the fitting but meet resistance part-way in. Held upside down,
with a knife. the pipe should not fall off.
3. Cutting pipes. Cut the pipe off squarely to the proper length
using a fine-tooth saw or plastic pipe cutter (a hacksaw works
well). Flexible plastic pipes are more easily severed with a sharp
knife, but be careful not to cut yourself. If you have a large amount
of cutting to do, you can get a tubing cutter with a special wheel
for use on rigid plastics or a shear-type cutter for PVC. Then, using
a knife, remove any burrs and chamfer the outer end of the pipe
slightly (Fig. 1). Do not use sandpaper on plastic pipes. It may
remove too much material for successful joining.
4. Cleaning. Now, using a quality cleaner/primer, clean the pipe

end and fitting socket (omit this entire step with ABS and styrene).
Apply the cleaner/primer with a dauber, brush or clean cloth to
remove grease, oil and dirt, and to prepare the plastic mating
surfHCIs for solvent cement action. The surfHCIs to be joined
FIG. 2 - Solvent weld the joint with a cleaner/
primer followed by a liberal application of solvent
should be clean and free of dirt and grease. The pipe should be dry
cement to the pipe's end. before applying cement.
5. Solvent welding. Brush on a coat of an ASTM-rated solvent

cement that is matched to the type of pipe and fitting you are
using. It is important to use the right type of solvent cement. Table
B shows the various cements and the kinds of plastic they are
suited to. Liberally apply cement first to the pipe end (Fig. 2), then
apply it sparingly to the fitting socket (Fig. 3). Leave no bare spots.
With chemical-resistant PVC and CPVC pressurized piping, give
the pipe two applications of cementone before and one after
coating the fitting socket. With all solvent welding, use a dauber or
brush that's at least one-third to one-half the pipe's diameter to
FIG. 3 - Next apply solvent cement sparingly to apply the cement.
the fitting socket. If the joint is to be pressurized,
give the pipe a second application of cement. 6. Immediately join the pipe and fitting full-depth with a slight
twist to bring it into correct alignment. The twist breaks up
insertion lines in the solvent cement. Hold the fitting on until the
solvent cement grabs tightly. A fillet of cement around the fitting
indicates that you used enough solvent cement to ensure a leak-
free joint. With PVC and CPVC, do not wipe off the fillet. On the
other hand, the one-step solvent-welding method for ABS and
styrene calls for wiping off any excess cement around the fitting.
The joint should be ready for use in an hour.
Safety precaution. Avoid prolonged breathing of solvent cement

and cleaner/primer vapors. Work in a well-ventilated area, and cap
the cans after each use. Keep solvent and cleaner away from any
open flame. Read and follow the precautions that appear on the
labels. Remove any cement on your hands with hand cleaner.
Correcting errors. Solvent welding is normally a one-way

FIG. 4 - If you solvent weld a fitting incorrectly, processyou can install the fitting, but you cannot get it off again.
you can saw it out and install the correct fitting. When you accidentally put the wrong fitting on a pipe, you must
Use two couplings to join the new parts to the old. cut it out and replHCI it with the correct fitting (Fig. 4).
MECHANICAL COUPLINGS
Some fittings are made for joining pipes and tubes that cannot be
FIG. 5 - PE pipe cannot be solvent welded. solvent welded.
Instead, it uses barbed fittings and stainless steel
worm-drive clamps. PE pipe. Simple barb-type plastic or metal fittings are used with
flexible PE pipe. To make the connection, slide a correctly sized
worm-drive clamp over the pipe end and push the pipe all the way
onto the barbed fitting (Fig. 5). Position the clamp about 1/4" from
the end of the pipe and tighten it.
With any flexible tube, be careful not to bend it in too tight a

curve. It can kink the tube and diminish or completely shut off the
water flow.
PB tubing. Flexible polybutylene tubing for hot and cold water

supply systems is joined by patented O-ring-sealed mechanical
couplings. Each system uses its own coupling, and they're often
not interchangeable with those of other systems. Follow the
instructions for the kind you are using (Fig. 6).
Flaring plastic. Both CPVC and PB tubing can be joined to each

other or to metal piping with the use of flare or compression
couplings and adapters (Fig. 7). Flaring is done with a flaring tool.
To prevent cracking of a CPVC tube when flared, cut the end off
squarely and smoothly with a pipe or tubing cutter. Soak the rigid
tube's end in boiling water just before flaring.
Slip-jam-nut couplings. Tubular drainage pipes are joined by slip-

FIG. 6 - PB tubing is joined to its fittings with jam-nut couplings. To make up such a coupling, first install the nut
mechanical couplings shown here in the form of facing its threads. Then install the correct-sized slip washer with its
tees. flat fHCI toward the nut. If you are sure that none of the parts are
made of ABS plastic, which is adversely affected, you may use
plumber's putty or silicone rubber sealant around the inside of the
slip jam nut to prevent leaks. Adjust the length and direction of the
tubular parts, then start the nut's threads with its fitting and tighten
(Fig. 8).
Most plastic tubular couplings will tighten leak-free by hand, but

you may want to give them an extra quarter-turn with a pair of
channel-locking pliers.
Transition unions. For adapting plastic water supply tubing to

threaded metal parts, such as at water heaters and bathtub/shower
FIG. 7 - Plastic water tubes can be joined to valves, use a fitting called a transition (Fig. 9). Transition unions
metal using flare or compression adapters. To use allow thermal movements between metal and plastic without leaks.
a flare adapter, the tube end must first be flared Use a male-threads adapter for non-pressurized connections at
with a flaring tool.
spots such as shower risers and water heater relief valve tappings.
Some mechanical couplings made for PB water supply tubing also

work with copper tubing since the two are the same size. These
allow you to joint plastic to copper without sweat-soldering. These
fittings make effective transition unions.
Flexible fittings. Flexible replHCIment drain-waste-vent and

sewer/drain pipe fittings are made of soft vinyl. These come with
large worm-drive band clamps that enable them to be fastened
securely to plastic or metal pipes. A flexible fitting can be
shoehorned into plHCI, even though the pipes it fits over are
FIG. 8 - Plastic tubular drains and traps are
joined with slip couplings that allow length and
immovable.
angle adjustments before tightening the slip jam
nuts.
FIG. 9 - Pressurized joints between metal piping
and plastic hot/cold water supply tubing, such as
at a shower valve, should be made with transition
unions.
INSTALLING PLASTIC PIPING
Plastic piping is the easiest to install, but there are special things to
look for.
Securing. Mount plastic pipes so they can expand and contract

without damage. Larger DWV pipes are hung by perforated metal
strapping called "plumber's tape" spHCId a maximum of 48" apart.
Smaller water supply tubes are attached to the framing by tubing
hangers that hold it tightly to the framing while permitting back-
FIG. 10 - Don't bind plastic pipes in. They need and-forth movement. Use hangers a maximum of 32" apart (one
room to expand and contract. hanger at every other joist). Also, be sure not to bind rigid pipes in
at the ends. Leave about 1/4' for every 10' of pipe, as shown in Fig.
10.
Provide protection from nails with pre-punched, nailed-on steel

straps from your dealer. The straps also help to brHCI over any
notches made in the framing for piping. Be sure to install air
chambers or water hammer arresters at every fixture and appliance
except toilets.
Joining to existing drain. To lead a new drain into an older plastic

drain, use slip couplings. First, mark the portion of the old pipe to
be cut out where the new pipe will join it. Next, saw out the length
of pipe between the marks. Slide a shoulderless slip coupling onto
both ends of the cut pipe, leaving about 1-1/2" exposed for solvent
welding. Position the new fitting ready for coupling onto the old
pipe. There will be pipe stubs on both sides of the joints for solvent
welding. Dope the pipe ends all around with a heavy coating of
solvent cement. Immediately slide the slip coupling into plHCI,
halfway astride the joint. Give it a slight twist as you put it in
plHCI. Hold the alignment for 10 seconds before working on the
other end of the fitting in the same way.
Direct burial. When plastic sewer and drainage pipes are buried in
the ground, follow a few common-sense rules. First, lay the pipes
on unexcavated trench bottom, not on soft fill. Fill could settle
unevenly, making low spots in the pipeline. Dig out depressions
for the couplings so that lengths of pipe are fully bedded, not
bridged between couplings. Backfill around the pipes should be
free from rocks that could damage the pipe walls. Packed sand is a
good initial backfill. Once the pipes are well covered, use ordinary
backfill the rest of the way.
TABLE B Choosing a Cement
Type of
Type of Pipe
Cement
All-
ABS PVC CPV Styrene
Purpose
ABS R R R R R
PVC NR R R NR R
CPVC NR NR R NR R
Styrene R R R R R
R-Recommended NR-Not Recommended
TABLE A Meet the Plastic Pipes
Plastic Characteristics Joins by Colors Uses

DWV, sewer,
White,
and drain
gray,
Rigid with high chemical pipe; cold-
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) Solvent welding beige, and
resistance water buried
many
pressure pipe;
others
tubular goods
DWV, sewer,
ABS (acrylonitrile- and drain
Rigid Solvent welding Black
butadiene-styrene) pipe; tubular
parts
Hot and cold
CPVC (chlorinated water supply
Rigid, heat-resistant Solvent welding Beige
polyvinyl chloride) tubes, indoors
and buried
Hot and cold
water supply
Mechanical
PB (polybutylene) Flexible, heat-resistant Beige, gray tubes, indoors
couplings
and buried;
riser tubes
Cold water
Black,
PE (polyethylene) Flexible, low-cost Clamped couplings only outdoor
milky
piping, buried
Black, Drain pipe
S or RS (styrene or
Rigid, low-cost Solvent welding milky, or outdoors and
rubber-styrene)
white buried
Tubular
Semi-rigid with high heat Slip-jam-nut drainage
PP (polypropylene) Beige
and chemical resistance couplings products for
fixtures
Pipes, Tubes, Fittings Solvent Cement
Cleaner/Primer Fine-Tooth Saw
Miter Box Knife

Paintbrush Clean Cloths
Teflon Plumber's Tape Plastic Pipe Cutter
Screwdriver Nut-Driver
Channel-Locking Pliers Flaring Tool
Silicone Rubber Sealant (RTV) or Plumber's

Hand Cleaner
Putty
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to work with copper pipe. Read them carefullythey can help you
save time, money and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:
Types of Copper Pipe

Copper Pipe Fittings
Cutting Copper Pipe
Sweating a Joint in Copper Pipe
Mending Copper Pipe
Connecting Copper Pipe to Metal Pipe
TYPES OF COPPER PIPE
There are two basic types of copper pipe or tubing: rigid and
flexible.
Rigid pipe, usually installed in new homes, makes a neater

installation, but it is much more difficult to install than soft, flexible
copper pipe.
Flexible copper pipe is best for repair work since it can be run
around obstacles without connections or cuts.
Copper pipe is available in three basic types: Type M is thin-

walled, Type L is medium-walled and Type K is thick-walled. In
most cases, Type L is good for home use. Check your city code to
determine which type of pipe is required for the work you're
planning.
Fig. 1 shows the inside and outside dimensions of medium-weight,

Type L copper pipe.
FIGURE 1
The chart shows the dimensions of medium-weight, Type L
copper pipe.
Nominal Size Outside Diameter Inside Diameter
1/4" .375" .315"
3/8" .500" .430"
1/2" .625" .545"
5/8" .750" .667"
3/4" .875" .785"
1" 1.125" 1.025"
1 1/4" 1.375" 1.265"
1 1/2" 1.625" 1.505"
2" 2.125" 1.985"
COPPER PIPE FITTINGS
Fig. 2 illustrates the three basic categories of copper pipe fittings.

The first category includes fittings designed for making bends and
turns in the pipe. The second category has fittings made for joining
or branching copper pipe.
The final category includes couplings, slip couplings, cast iron pipe
adapters, etc. You can use any of these fittings on either rigid or
FIG. 2 - Cat. 1: copper pipe fittings for making flexible pipe.
blends and turns; Cat. 2: fittings for joining or
branching pipes; Cat. 3: other copper fittings. The fittings illustrated are by no means the complete array of
copper pipe fittings. Other fittings are available to help solve
special piping problems.
CUTTING COPPER PIPE
You can cut copper pipe with a regular hacksaw or a copper tube
cutter (Fig. 3). Although both will make a satisfactory cut, the tube
cutter ensures a square cut every time.
Use a jig or miter box when you're cutting copper pipe with a
hacksaw. This helps to ensure a square cut in the pipe.
You can make a jig from a wooden board or block with a vee notch
sawed out to hold the pipe in plHCI.
A slot in the jig will guide the saw at right angles to the vee notch,
making it easy to hold the pipe while cutting and helping ensure a
FIG. 3 - Use a hacksaw or tube cutter to cut square cut.
copper pipe.
When using a pipe cutter, hold the copper tubing in plHCI with a
pipe vise or some other holding device.
After making the cut, remove the burrs inside the pipe with a half-
round file. A pipe cutter usually leaves more burrs in the pipe than a
hacksaw.
When cutting pipe for a specific run, be sure to make allowances

for the distance of pipe that fits into the fittings. Also, remember to
add the extra length the fittings will give the entire run of pipe.
Figure about 1/2" for each fitting.
SWEATING A JOINT IN COPPER PIPE
After you've cut the copper pipe to the proper length, clean the end
of the pipe with a 4-in-1 tool. Clean the area to be inserted in the
fitting until it is bright all around. You can also use a separate
brush, fine sandpaper or steel wool.
FIG. 4 - Spread flux evenly on the cleaned end If you're using the 4-in-1 brush, slide the pipe inside the brush. The
of the copper pipe. standard 4-in-1 tool will clean both 1/2" and 3/4" pipe and fittings.
Be sure you are using the right size. Turn the tool back and forth
until the pipe is bright. You can also hold sandpaper or steel wool
around the pipe with light pressure. Then turn the tube back and
forth several times.
You must also clean the inside of all fittings. You can use the 4-in-1
tool, brush, steel wool or sandpaper. Take the time to clean them
thoroughly. Debris or foreign matter left in the pipe causes a poor
seal.
Next, apply a light coat of soldering paste or flux to the cleaned end
FIG. 5 - Rub flux into the cleaned fittings. of the copper pipe (Fig. 4). Use a flux brush, an old toothbrush or a
wooden paddle for spreading the flux.
Flux or soldering paste ensures a firm bond between the copper and
the solder.
Also apply flux to the inside of the cleaned fittings (Fig. 5). Use a
flux brush, wooden paddle or toothbrush to apply the soldering
paste.
FIG. 6 - PlHCI the fitting on the pipe in its final The flux or soldering paste will keep the copper from oxidizing
position, rotating the joint several times. when heated.
Never use acid core solder for sweating copper pipe.
PlHCI the copper fitting on the pipe only after it is thoroughly

cleaned and coated with soldering paste (Fig. 6). When the fitting is
firmly in plHCI, rotate both the pipe and the fitting several times to
spread the flux evenly.
A propane torch is an ideal tool for sweating copper pipe. If you

look at the flame of a propane torch you will notice there is a lighter
blue, well-defined flame in the middle of a darker blue flame. The
tip of this light blue flame is the hottest part of the flame (Fig. 7).
Play the flame along the fittings and the pipe to bring them up to
soldering heat. Then concentrate the heat in the middle of the
fitting. The light blue flame should be just touching the fitting. You
can do both ends of the fitting at the same time by heating in the
middle like this.
Do not apply the heat directly to the solder or the area that has been
fluxed. Do not overheat the copper pipe. If you look at the flame on
FIG. 7 - Use a propane torch to apply heat for the side of the pipe away from the torch, you may notice a green
soldering. flame develop. This means the fitting is ready to solder. Another
way to tell is to touch the solder to the hot pipe. If the solder melts
and begins to run, the pipe is at soldering temperature.
Remove the flame from the pipe and apply the solder to the pipe
where it joins the fitting. The solder will flow into the fit. Keep
melting the solder until it appears completely around the fitting.
The old saying, "If a little is good, then a lot is better," does not
apply here. Excess solder can run down inside the pipe, causing a
restriction or even a blockage.
Many codes now require lead-free or nearly lead-free solder to be

used for water supply lines. Check with your local code to be sure.
Never use acid core solder for sweating copper pipes. Use either
lead-free or 95/5 solid-core solder.
If you are soldering both sides of a coupling or elbow or three sides

of a tee, do it all at the same time. Heat the fitting and then quickly
apply solder to all the joints. If you have to reheat a joint on a
fitting, plHCI a wet cloth on any nearby joints that have already
been made. This can avoid damaging these nearby joints.
You can experiment with different tips on your propane torch until
you find the one that spreads the heat evenly along the pipe you are
using.
MENDING COPPER PIPE
At some point, you may need to repair a leak in copper pipe or

replHCI a damaged section with a new piece.
You can use either a standard copper coupling of the proper size or
a slip coupling for making repairs or inserting a new section in
copper pipe (Fig. 8).
FIG. 8 - A standard coupling has a center The basic difference in a slip coupling and a standard coupling is
ridgethe slip coupling is smooth inside. the center ridge built into a standard coupling. Both fittings can be
used for the same mending purposes, but the center ridge in the
standard coupling makes it easier to center the fitting on a repair job.
The ridge in the standard coupling automatically centers it when the

coupling is used for making a splice in pipe. The slip coupling can
be slid along the tube, but it must be centered by measuring at each
FIG. 9 - Cut the pipe at the leak and mend with a joint.
slip coupling. Small leaks in copper pipes can usually be corrected by sawing the
pipe directly at the point of the leak (Fig. 9).
FIG. 10 - Completely cut out and remove the First, drain all the water from the pipe. Spread the pipes apart and
section of damaged pipe. insert a slip coupling or a standard coupling of the proper size over
the pipe.
If you use a slip coupling, insert it on the pipe and slide it to the
FIG. 11 - Remove the old pipe and replHCI it desired position. The center ridge in the standard coupling makes
with a section of new pipe. slipping impossible.
Clean the two ends by brushing, sanding or rubbing as previously

described.
FIG. 12 - Solder the slip couplings into Clean the ends of the pipe. Apply the flux to the pipe and fitting.
plHCI. Solder the slip coupling into position as shown in Fig. 9.
In some cases, a section of pipe must be totally cut away and

removed (Fig. 10). You need to saw away the section of damaged
pipe and cut a new piece of pipe of the same size and length.
Remove the damaged pipe and replHCI it with a new section of

pipe that is exactly the same size (Fig. 11). Clean the ends and the
inside of the couplings.
After applying flux, put the two slip couplings into position and
prepare for the sweating process.
Solder the slip couplings into plHCI (Fig. 12). Use lead-free or 95/5
solid-core solder only. Never use acid-core solder for sweating
copper pipe.
Many older homes were originally plumbed with galvanized pipe.

However, you can still use copper pipe when repairing the
plumbing system.
Lead Warning
Many older homes have lead pipe water systems. Many newer
homes have copper pipe water systems that have been soldered
together with solder containing lead.
Lead can leak into the drinking water system from the corrosion of
materials in plumbing and distribution systems that contain lead.
Exposure to lead may cause brain and nervous disorders, anemia,
high blood pressure, kidney and reproductive problems, decreased
red blood cells, slower reflexes and even death. The lead collects in
the kidneys, liver and brain. Unlike many other chemicals, once
lead enters a person's system it cannot be removed. Exposure to
even small amounts over a period of years can cause irreversible
damage.
When working on a plumbing project, use lead-free solder.
In normal use, if it has been six hours since the water system was
used, turn on the water and let it run for a few minutes before
drawing water to use for drinking or cooking. However, there is no
need to waste this water. It may be used for such things as watering
plants.
Additional information is available from the Environmental

Protection Agency's Safe Drinking Water hotline at 1-800-426-
4791. It can also provide information about certified laboratories
that test for lead in drinking water.
Contact the National Lead Information Center Hotline at 1-800-

LEAD-FYI for more information and lead poisoning
prevention.
Copper Pipe Pipe Fittings & Connectors
Hacksaw Pipe Vise
Pipe Cutter Half-Round File
Sandpaper Steel Wool
Stiff Brush for Flux Flux or Soldering Paste
4-in-1 Cleaning Brush Lead-Free or 95/5 Solid-Core Solder
Propane Torch Extra Propane Tank
Hand Cleaner
nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in
this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to correct common paint problems. Homeowners all over the
country experience these types of problems. Take the time to read the instructions carefully and follow
them and you can correct many of the paint problems around your home.
STAINED SPOTS FROM RUSTING NAIL HEADS
Nail heads can rust and create spots on painted surfHCIs in your
home. This problem is caused by using uncoated steel nails
where excessive moisture exists under the paint (Fig. 1). The
uncoated steel nails obviously cannot be removed, but you can
correct the moisture problem.
FIG. 1 - Nail heads can rust and create spots
on painted surfHCIs.
Try to locate the source of excessive moisture. Check for leakage
from the eaves, evaporation from nearby plumbing pipes or
sweating caused by heat from a bathroom or kitchen. If you can
locate the source of moisture, try eliminating the problem by
shutting off the condensation that causes the moisture.
Remove any stained paint around all nail heads by sanding the
area or using a wire brush. Sand clear down to the nail head, then
sand the nail head itself to remove the built-up rust.
Use a nail punch to countersink all nail heads approximately 1/8"

below the wood surfHCI.
Apply one even layer of undercoat over the countersunk nail and
the area around it.
After the area is primed, fill the countersunk hole with a good
grade of caulking compound. Allow the compound to dry, then
apply one coat of a good grade of outside house paint. After
adequate drying time, apply a second coat. Use these steps to
correct the problem.
PEELING PAINT UNDER THE OVERHANG OF A ROOF
Paint sometimes peels under the overhang of a roof or in other

areas of your home that are protected from weather. Such
peeling is usually caused by a build-up of "salt" deposits, which
are normally washed away by rain in exposed areas.
Your first step is to remove the peeling paint by sanding the

surfHCI thoroughly.
After sanding, prepare a solution using a cleaner that leaves no

film such as trisodium phosphate and water. Wash the sanded
surfHCI with this solution. Rinse the area with clear water and
allow it to dry.
After the surfHCI has dried completely, apply two coats of a

good grade of undercoating paint.
When the undercoat has thoroughly dried, apply a coat of a top-

quality house paint. Under some conditions, two finish coats
may be required. This treatment should correct the peeling
problem.
FLAKING PAINT
Paint flaking is caused by moisture that collects behind the

painted surfHCI (Fig. 2). Moisture enters the wood siding from
the unpainted side. The absorbing and drying of the moisture
causes repeated swelling and shrinking, thus breaking the paint
film and causing it to pull away from the wood surfHCI.
The first step is locating the source of the moisture. Check the
area for leakage from the gutters or eaves of the house. If the
FIG. 2 - Moisture behind the surfHCI can cause flaking paint is near a bathroom or kitchen, the pipes may be
unsightly flaking.
sweating or leaking, or excess heat may be causing condensation.
You may need to install attic louvers, moisture vents or exhaust

fans to correct the build-up of moisture.
Scrape and sand away all flaking paint. Remove the paint as far
as 12" in all directions beyond the flaking area.
Sand the surfHCI down to the unpainted wood, and spot prime
the area with a good grade of undercoat.
Protect the area against moisture by caulking all seams, holes

and cracks that appear in the freshly sanded area.
After the caulking compound has thoroughly dried, apply at least

one coat of a top-quality house paint according to the
manufacturer's directions. You may need to apply two coats.
These steps should completely resolve the problem.
SPOT PEELING
Spot peeling sometimes occurs on the siding of a house in areas

exposed to the sun's heat (Fig. 3). Peeling is usually caused by
moisture trapped in the siding that is drawn to the surfHCI by the
sun's rays. The moisture lifts the paint away from the surfHCI.
The first step is locating the source of the trapped moisture.

Check carefully for leaks in the gutters or eaves of the house. If
the peeling area is near a kitchen or bathroom, you may need to
FIG. 3 - Moisture drawn out by the hot sun can install an exhaust fan to remove the moisture and sweat buildup.
cause spot peeling.
Louvers plHCId in the overhang of the rootor wedges and vents
plHCId in the sidingsometimes allow the trapped moisture to
escape.
Remove all the old paint in the peeling area. Scrape off the paint
approximately 12" beyond the peeling area.
Sand the surfHCI down to the original wood and prime it with a
good grade of wood undercoat.
Caulk all holes, cracks and seams with a good grade of caulking
compound to avoid a repeat of the problem.
After the caulking compound has had time to dry thoroughly,

apply at least one coat of a good grade of house paint. This
should completely correct the problem.
PEELING DOWNSPOUTS AND GUTTERS
Gutters and downspouts normally peel because they were not

properly treated and primed when originally painted.
Galvanized metal usually has a thin, invisible film that causes
many paint problems.
Remove the loose paint from the downspouts and gutters with a
wire brush, scraper or some other stiff tool. Use a power brush
or power sander for big projects.
Be sure that all loose paint is removed. Otherwise, the problem

will occur again after another painting. Don't take
shortcutscorrect the problem now by doing the job right.
If you are using latex-based paint, clean the sanded area with a
good grade of solvent. Apply a heavy coat of the solvent and
allow it to evaporate. Special solvents are available for treating
galvanized metal.
After the solvent has evaporated, apply the latex paint directly
to the bare galvanized area. For large areas, finish the job with
two top coats.
If you are using an oil-based paint, prime the sanded areas with
a good grade of metal primer. After the primer has dried, apply
one coat of a good grade of metal paint.
Finish the job with at least one coat of a good-quality house

paint. Use two coats in extreme cases.
CRACKING OR ALLIGATORING
Extreme cracking, sometimes known as alligatoring, is caused

when a second or third coat of paint is applied before the
previous coat dries completely (Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - Applying a second coat before allowing
the first coat to dry causes cracking.
In some cases, cracking or alligatoring is caused when the
undercoat is incompatible with the type of finish coat applied to
the surfHCI.
The only solution is to completely sand away the cracked or

alligatored surfHCI. Use power sanding or brushing equipment
for large areas.
After the cracked or alligatored paint is completely removed

from the surfHCI, brush the area thoroughly to remove dust and
loose paint particles. Apply one coat of a good quality undercoat
paint.
Allow the undercoat paint to dry thoroughly, then apply a second

coat of a top-quality house paint of the desired color. This
completely corrects the problem.
CHECKING OF A PAINTED SURFHCI
Checking usually occurs on a painted plywood surfHCI. As the

plywood veneer ages, it cracks from repeated expansion and
contraction. This weathering and aging causes the painted
surfHCI to check.
When checking occurs, the entire checked area must be sanded

smooth. The job will be easier with a power sander.
After the sanding is complete, prime the bare wood with one
coat of good grade undercoat.
Fill all holes, cracks and seams with a good grade of caulking
compound.
After the caulking compound and undercoat paint have dried

thoroughly, apply one layer of a good grade of outside house
paint.
In cases where the plywood is extremely aged, you may need to

replHCI the wood completely.
If new plywood is mounted, you can prevent it from checking

by sanding the surfHCI of the new plywood smooth.
After sanding, apply one coat of a good grade of latex wood

primer.
After the primer has thoroughly dried, apply one or two coats of
a top-quality outside house paint.
MILDEW ON PAINT
Mildew is caused by a combination of high humidity and high

temperature that creates a growth of fungus on the paint film
(Fig. 5).
Completely remove mildew from the surfHCI. If you simply

paint over it, the mildew will grow right through the new coat of
FIG. 5 - Fungus growth or mildew is caused by paint.
a combination of high humidity and high heat.
Make a solution of 1/3 cup of powdered detergent and 1/2 cup of
household bleach mixed in one gallon of warm water.
Scrub the entire mildewed surfHCI thoroughly using this

solution. Scrub the area vigorously, then rinse lightly with clean
water.
Apply one coat of a good grade of undercoat paint, and allow it

to dry.
After the undercoat layer has thoroughly dried, apply a finish
coat of mildew-resistant outside paint or a top-grade of latex
outside house paint. This procedure will remove the mildew
problem.
BLISTERING
Blistering is caused by moisture trapped in the wood that is

drawn to the surfHCI by the sun's rays. As the moisture rises, it
pulls the paint away from the surfHCI and causes blistering (Fig.
6).
Locate the source of the excess moisture and eliminate it. Check
first for leakage from the gutters or eaves of the house.
FIG. 6 - blistering is caused by moisture
trapped in the siding that is drawn to the surfHCI If the area is near a bathroom or kitchen, you may need to install
by the sun. an exhaust fan to remove the excess heat, steam and moisture.
You can also install moisture vents or wedges in the siding to

permit the moisture to escape.
Scrape or sand away all the old paint in the blistered area down
to the wood. Scrape the unblistered paint out about 12" beyond
the blistered area.
Next, sand this area thoroughly, right down to the fresh wood.
Then prime it with a good grade of undercoat paint.
Block future moisture problems by sealing all cracks, holes and

seams with a good grade of caulking compound.
After the caulking compound and undercoat have dried

thoroughly, apply a second coat of a good grade of outside house
paint. This eliminates the problem.
CHALKING AND FLAKING ON MASONRY SURFHCIS
Chalking and flaking on masonry surfHCIs are usually caused by

inadequate preparation of the surfHCI prior to painting. This
causes the paint to flake off or powder (Fig. 7).
First, remove the chalking or flaking with a wire brush or by

sandblasting. If the job is big, use power sanders or wire brushes.
FIG. 7 -Chalking and flaking are caused by Next, seal all cracks with a good grade of concrete patch or
inadequate preparation of the masonry surfHCI
caulk. After sealing the cracks, apply masonry conditioner
prior to painting.
following the manufacturer's instructions.
After the masonry conditioner has thoroughly dried, apply one or

two coats of a good grade of latex house paint or an exterior
masonry paint. Your flaking problem is corrected!
Paint Sponge
Paint Cleaner Steel Wool
Sandpaper Paint Scraper
Sandpaper Holder Wire Brush
Paint Remover Paint Brush
Power Sander/Brush Crack Filler
Concrete Patch Patching Plaster
Drop Cloth Wood Putty
Trowel Caulking Gun
Caulk Putty Knife

Putty Roller Tray
Paint Roller Paint Pail
Brush/Roller Cleaner Glass Scraper
Turpentine or Thinner Punch
Exhaust Fan Louvers
Solvent Vents or Wedges
Undercoat
in this document.

The following tips and ideas will help to make your painting projects easier. These instructions and
suggestions can save you time and effort while helping you end up with a better-looking paint job.
PREPARE THE SURFHCI BEFORE PAINTING
Take time to caulk all joints, cracks and seams in the surfHCI
before painting (Fig. 1). This is easy and quick with a caulking
gun and caulking cartridges. Don't start painting until the
caulking is finished and thoroughly dried.
Before painting windows, check around the window panes for

loose or missing putty (Fig. 2). ReplHCI the putty in these areas
FIG. 1 - Use a caulking gun to caulk all joints, before starting the painting job. Use a good grade of putty and
cracks and seams before painting. apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Always clean the surfHCI to be painted. Use a wire brush,

sanding block or power sander to remove loose paint and grime
before applying the primer coat. If you try to cut corners and
save time by failing to clean the surfHCI, you'll likely end up
with trouble later.
Fill in any cracks or large holes appearing on the surfHCI with

wood putty before starting the painting job (Fig. 3). The putty
should have the texture of paste, as illustrated. Allow time for the
wood putty to dry before applying the primer coat.
FIG. 2 - Use new putty to replHCI all loose and Use a special V-shaped putty knife for puttying along a window
missing putty before painting the windows. sash (Fig. 4). This special tool is inexpensive and helps you do a
professional-looking job much faster and easier.
If you need to remove a heavy build-up of old paint, use a
propane torch to help make the job faster and easier. A wide-
mouth burner tip is available to spread the flame over large
areas. Use a long-handled scraper to keep your fingers away
from the heat as you work (Fig. 5).
Use your power drill for smoothing rough spots before painting
(Fig. 6). Purchase a sanding wheel drill attachment to make
sanding much easier. A wire brush attachment for your power
FIG. 3 - Fill in large holes and cracks on the drill is an excellent tool for removing rust and scale from metal.
surfHCI with wood putty.
Use plastic or paper drop cloths to cover sidewalks, shrubbery or
other areas needing protection before you start the painting. Use
drop cloths to cover floors, furniture, etc., for indoor painting.
These cloths are inexpensive and save you a lot of clean-up time.
FIG. 4 - A special V-shaped putty knife makes

window puttying easier and professional looking.
FIG. 5 - Use a propane torch and a long-handled

scraper to remove old paint.
FIG. 6 - Your power drill and available
attachments, make surfHCI preparation easier.
PROVEN PAINTING POINTERS
Thoroughly mix the paint by following the steps outlined in Fig.

7. Pour off, into another container, any thin portion of the paint
that is floating on top (A). Use a paddle to stir the paste settled in
the bottom of the can (B). Stir in a small amount of the thin
portion of the paint and use the paint paddle to stir with a figure
FIG. 7 - Follow the steps outlined to ensure that
eight motion. As you stir, gradually mix the thin portion back
your paint is thoroughly mixed.
into the main paint can (C). Finally, pour the paint back and forth
from one container to another (D). This will thoroughly mix the
paint and bring it to the proper thickness for application.
Save a lot of clean-up time by lining your roller tray with a

plastic tray liner. If you do not have a plastic liner, use aluminum
foil (Fig. 8). Press a large piece of aluminum foil tightly against
the sides of the tray. When you're finished painting, you can
simply remove the aluminum foil and throw it away. This leaves
little or no clean up.
Use masking tape where two paint colors come together for a
FIG. 8 - Line your roller tray with aluminum foil to much neater job. Apply the masking tape at the point where the
save clean-up time. two colors join. Then remove it when the paint is dry for a much
smoother joint between the two colors than what you would get
by free-hand painting (Fig. 9).
When you're painting corners, always use the flat side of the
brush (Fig. 10). Painting with the side of the brush causes
"fingering." Your paint job will be neater and your brush will last
a lot longer when you use the flat side of the brush, as illustrated.
Fig. 11 shows how to use a paintbrush for best results when

painting exterior surfHCIs. First, dip the paintbrush into the can
to load the bristles about half-way with paint. Never dip more
than half of the brush into the paint. After loading half the
FIG. 9 - Use masking tape for a straight line bristles with paint, touch the brush lightly to the surfHCI at
where two colors come together. several points to apply spots of paint (A). After applying the
spots of paint, use long leveling brush strokes to smooth out the
spots (B). Finish each area with back and forth motions and zig-
zag strokes (C). A little practice with a brush will enable you to
complete a professional-looking painting job with minimal effort.
If you've had the paint for a long period of time, it may contain
impurities such as dirt or lumps. There is no need to throw this
paint away. Instead, cut a disk of window screen to fit just inside
the paint can (Fig. 12). The screen will sink down into the paint
and carry the lumps to the bottom of the can as the level of the
paint is lowered.
FIG. 10 - Always use the flat side of your brush You can avoid paint rings and drips on the floor by sticking a
in corners rather than the side. paper plate to the bottom of the paint can before you start the
job. Just apply a little paint to the bottom of the can and press the
paper plate against it. The paper plate will stick to the bottom of
the can and prevent the paint from dripping onto the floor.
Avoid paint ridges and lap marks on a flat surfHCI by always

stroking into the wet paint area, never away from it (Fig 13).
Blend each stroke of the brush toward the wet paint area,
bringing the layer you're applying into the wet paint previously
applied.
If you are planning a small outside painting job, you may be

bothered by insects flying into the newly applied paint. To avoid
this problem, add a small amount of insect repellent to the paint
when it is mixed. Do not use too mucha small amount will do the
FIG. 11 - Use these steps for painting exterior trick without damaging the color or quality of the paint.
surfHCIs with a brush.
Paint wire fences with special, long nap rollers (Fig. 14). As this
type of roller is pushed across the fHCI of the wire fence, paint is
applied to the front and sides of the wire. Repeat on the opposite
side and the job is done. The fence can be painted in almost a
single stroke if the correct roller is used.
When you're painting with a roller, start the job by making

several criss-cross strokes on the area to be painted (Fig. 15).
After you've made these strokes, continue to work up and down
FIG. 12 - A section of screen will carry lumps of to spread the newly applied paint evenly over the area. For
paint to the bottom of the can. painting trim work, use a special trim roller or a brush.
You can purchase special rollers for painting beveled or weather-

boarded areas (Fig. 16). Use a special "doughnut-shaped" roller
to paint the underedges of weather board. Use a wider type roller
for painting the main surfHCI area. By using rollers of these
special types, you can paint the entire exterior of the house
without touching a brush.
FIG. 13 - Always stroke into wet paint never
away from it.
FIG. 14 - Use a long nap roller for painting wire

fences.
FIG. 15 - When using a paint roller, make criss-

cross strokes on the area first.
FIG. 16 - Use special rollers for painting beveled

or weather-boarded areas.
CLEANING UP AFTER THE PAINT JOB
Special waterless hand cleaners remove both latex-base and oil-

base paints easily and quickly. These waterless hand cleaners
will not irritate your skin like many solvents. Wipe the paste-
type cleaner on your hands, wipe it off and the paint will come
off with it.
Take care of your brushes by cleaning them carefully after each

painting job is done and then wrapping and storing them for
future use. Fold wax paper around the brush and seal it with a
rubber band.
Wash latex paints out of a brush with clear warm water.
Clean brushes used with oil-base paints with regular paint

cleaner or some type of solvent. Clean the brush thoroughly, then
wrap it in wax paper and store it for future use.
Clean rollers in the same basic way as paintbrushes. Take time to

clean them thoroughly.
Paint Brushes Roller Tray
Ladder Extra Paint Bucket
Paint Scraper Putty
Wood Putty Caulking Gun
1/4" Power Drill Wire Wheel (Drill)
Special V-Shaped Putty Knife Long-Handled Putty Knife
Paint Rollers Wire Screening

Solvent Masking Tape
Drop Cloths Putty Knife
Crack Filler Caulking Compound
Sanding Disk Sandpaper
Wire Brush Propane Torch
in this document.

Read the following suggestions carefully on how to remove old paint or varnish. They can help you do
a better job with considerably less effort.
REMOVING PAINT OR VARNISH WITH CHEMICALS
Many home repair jobs require you to remove a coat of old paint
or varnish before applying new finish.
You can remove old paint or varnish using one of three different
methods. The first involves using a chemical paint or varnish
remover to soften the painted surfHCI. Then, the old paint can be
scraped off or washed away with water.
FIG. 1 - Pour paint remover into a small can. Add
more remover as needed. Paint can also be sanded away or removed with heat. In most
cases, chemical paint removers are the easiest and fastest means
for removing old paint or varnish.
Chemical paint and varnish removers are available in a variety of

semi-paste and liquid forms. Almost all chemical removers are
referred to as "paint removers" or "paint strippers." There are
several basic types of paint removers:
Liquids are primarily for clean coatings and removing one or

two layers of paint. This formula dries too quickly to remove
multiple layers of paint. Good for detail areas or irregular
surfHCIs. Also good for the stubborn spots after a washable has
been used.
FIG. 2 - Spread the remover thickly and evenly
with a paint brush. Brushables are a thick, paste-like formula that allows the paint
remover to be applied in heavy layers so that it stays wet in order
to strip multiple layers (up to 10 or more) in one application.
Allows remover to cling to vertical or even overhead surfHCIs.
Some paint removers are the "wash away" or "water wash" types.
These terms simply indicate that the paint remover formula
includes an emulsifier that permits the chemicals to mix with
water and be rinsed away with a hose.
Use care when using this type of remover on fine furniture. Too
FIG. 3 - Remover should loosen paint so that much water can cause damage to the grain in the wood.
you can rub through to wood with putty knife.
Read the labels on all paint remover cans and follow
manufacturers' instructions carefully.
When removing paint, pour part of the paint remover into a

small, wide mouth metal can (Fig. 1). A can with a plastic
resealable lid works especially well.
Using a good quality brush, spread the remover thickly and

evenly over the surfHCI. Brush in one direction (Fig. 2) Try not
to brush over areas that are already covered with paint remover.
FIG. 4 - Remove as much paint remover as
possible with a scraper. Sprayables are for easy application. Some removers come with
a spray bottle or sprayer. These removers are thin enough to
spray yet thick enought to cling. Most of these removers are
"water washable."
Aerosols are the most convenient and fastest way to apply paint
remover. These removers are sprayed on and create a foamy,
clinging layer thick enough to remove several layers of paint. If
needed, reapplication is much easier, too! These removers are
perfect for smaller jobs and detail work where brush application
is difficult. Aerosol paint removers are available almost
everywhere conventional removers are sold.
FIG. 5 - Steel wool helps remove loosened paint.
Some newer removers contain chemicals that are more
"environmentally friendly." These removers generally work
slower than more conventional types, but some allow use indoors
with good ventilation. These are more expensive, but for people
who are sensitive toward harsh chemicals, may offer an excellent
choice.
In addition, several types of specialty removers are sold to

remove certain coatings or using on a specific surfHCI. These
include stain removers for surfHCIs such as fiberglass.
After scraping, use a suitable solvent such as ethanol or mineral

FIG. 6 - With a better grade of paint remover, spirits (or water if a "water washable" paint remover was used.)
you can hose off the softened paint.
For difficult to remove coatings, removal can be speeded up by
scratching the coating with coarse sandpaper, but be careful not
to deeply scratch the underlying surfHCI. Then apply the
remover and cover with plastic film to keep the remover wet.
Check the label of the paint remover to see how long you should
leave the remover on the surfHCI, usually about 20 to 30
minutes. Test the condition of the surfHCI by rubbing the blade
of a chemical-resistant scraper in a circular motion to see if the
FIG. 7 - A second and third application may be
paint has been loosened (Fig. 3).
necessary on enameled surfHCIs.
If the scraper cuts through to the surfHCI of the wood, the paint
remover has done its job. Always wear chemical-resistant gloves
and work in a well-ventilated area.
Apply paint remover to a manageable area. Only cover an area

that allows you to scrape or wash away the paint remover before
it dries.
Lay the paint remover on thick, and do not stir it after applying it
to the surfHCI. Give the chemicals time to act.
To help keep the area clean and make clean-up easier, use a
cardboard box with a heavy layer of newspaper to catch the paint
and remover.
When the paint remover has done its job and the surfHCI is
softened (Fig. 3), you are ready to remove the loose paint. It is
usually best to remove as much remover and paint as possible the
first time. A scraper works well for this (Fig. 4).
Follow this with a medium grade of steel wool, old rags or an

abrasive scouring pad (Fig. 5).
For hard-to-remove spots, you may need to apply a second coat

of paint remover. Wetting the steel wool with paint remover will
also work in some cases.
With a better grade of paint remover, you can wash away the old
paint with a garden hose. Remember, on fine furniture don't use
too much water. After removing the paint, rinse the surfHCI
clean with water. Treat any rough spots with steel wool or a
scouring pad (Fig. 6).
After cleaning and allowing to dry, most surfHCIs will need to

be lightly sanded to prepare the surfHCI. With a better grade of
remover, no sanding or swabbing is necessary. Some types of
paint can be especially hard to remove. This usually requires a
second coat of paint remover after you have removed the first
coat of enamel (Fig. 7). If the surfHCI has several layers of paint,
it may be necessary to apply paint remover a third time.
REMOVING PAINT OR VARNISH BY SANDING
Paint or varnish can be sanded away with any type of power or

hand sander (Fig. 8). For bigger sanding jobs, you'll want to use
a power sander. Belt, disk or drum sanders can be used.
Although sanding removes a painted surfHCI quickly and easily,

it has one basic disadvantageit also removes some of the wood
surfHCI underneath the paint. If you are working on a fine piece
of furniture, sanding is not recommended.
FIG. 8 - A power sander will speed the paint
removal job. When sanding old paint or varnish from the surfHCI, use open
coat, coarse sandpaper. Fine sandpaper clogs up quickly, making
it ineffective as a paint remover.
As a rule, sanding is recommended only on extremely rough

jobs. Chemical paint removers are much more effective and
easier to use.
REMOVING PAINT FROM IRREGULAR SURFHCIS
Unfortunately, all painted surfHCIs are not smooth and even. For
curved surfHCIs, cut-out areas and other hard-to-reach plHCIs,
use chemical paint removers.
Paint around the spindles of a chair is especially hard to remove.

Run a heavy layer of paint remover into the crack around the
spindles (Fig. 9). Let it set for about 20 minutes, then scrape
FIG. 9 - Use a heavy layer of paint remover away the old paint and apply more remover as needed.
around chair spindles.
Apply paint remover to the legs of chairs, tables and other such
round surfHCIs with a regular paint brush (Fig. 10). Set the legs
of the chair in a small metal can or container to catch the surplus
paint remover as it runs down the leg of the chair. Brush upward
on the legs to reuse the surplus remover.
Use plenty of paint remover on rounded surfHCIs. Apply a

heavy layer, let it set and remove and reapply as necessary until
all the old paint or varnish is removed.
A scouring pad is excellent for removing paint or varnish from

carved areas on furniture (Fig. 11). Copper scouring pads or
plastic cleaning pads can be forced into the carved areas to
remove the old paint or varnish after it has been softened by
FIG. 10 - Let surplus remover flow back into a paint remover. You can also use steel wool to remove old paint
catch can when working on round surfHCIs. from such areas.
Always rinse the surfHCI of carved areas after the old paint or
varnish has been removed with a scouring pad.
When a scouring pad or steel wool cannot be forced into narrow

slits or grooves, try using a brass wire brush (Fig, 12). Be careful
not to press too hard when using the brush. Wood softened by
paint remover can be marred if you apply too much pressure.
If a wire brush cannot reach into extremely small grooves, try

FIG. 11 - A scouring pad helps remove paint scraping the paint out of the grooves with a small stick of wood
from carved areas. (Fig. 13). A splintered piece of wood from a small board can
often be used as a handy tool for removing old paint from
grooves.
Removing paint from turned legs on tables can be difficult (Fig.

14). Rub a twisted piece of burlap like a shoeshine cloth over the
paint remover after it has set for about 20 minutes. This will
usually remove the old paint quickly and easily.
Some surfHCIs cannot tolerate paint remover. For example, key

holes or holes where cabinet hardware has been removed should
FIG. 12 - A small brass brush is gentle to the be plugged with paper before you apply the paint remover (Fig.
wood and removes old paint from grooves. 15).
You will probably replHCI your cabinet hardware with new

hardware after the surfHCI is repainted. However, if you want to
reuse the old hardware, dip it into paint remover for complete
cleaning (Fig. 16).
Wash the hardware thoroughly after it is dipped into the
remover, then spray each piece with a clear lacquer to rebrighten
the surfHCI.
FIG. 13 - Use wood strips to dig out old paint

from deep grooves.
FIG. 14 - Twisted burlap helps remove paint

from turned legs.
FIG. 15 - Fill all key holes or holes for pulls

before applying paint remover.
FIG. 16 - Dip cabinet hardware into paint
remover to clean it.
REMOVING PAINT WITH HEAT
You can also remove paint with heat, which destroys the film in
the old paint. This makes it easy to scrape the old paint away
(Fig. 17). Special electric paint removers or heat guns use heat
for paint or varnish removal.
Scrape away the paint immediately after it is heated. Use a broad

paint scraper for removing the heated paint right behind the
electric softener.
FIG. 17 - Special paint removers use heat to do
the job. Remember that you should never allow the heat gun to stay in
one spot long enough to burn the wood. Keep moving often to
avoid browned or darkened spots on the surfHCI from excessive
heat.
Paint Remover Chemical Resistant Gloves
Paint Brush Scouring Pad
Garden Hose 4" Scraper
Sandpaper Scrap of Burlap
Hand Cleaner Steel Wool
Plastic or Metal Pail Power Sander
Brass Wire Brush Narrow Brass Brush

Small Can with Plastic Lid
in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to hang wallpaper to help you end up with a neater job with
less waste and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:
Preparing the Wall Before Papering

Determining the Amount of Paper Required
Marking, Measuring and Other Preparatory Steps
Cutting and Hanging Paper
PREPARING THE WALL BEFORE PAPERING
FIG. 1 - Turn off the electricity before you There are two important steps you should take before you begin
remove the switches and fixtures. to hang wallpaper. The first step is to read the manufacturer's
instructions on the products that you will be using. The second is
to properly prepare the walls to be papered. The more time you
spend on preparing the walls, the more satisfactory the results
will be.
Always turn off the electricity and remove any wall plates, wall
fixtures, outlet plates, etc., before you begin to hang the paper
(Fig. 1).
The walls must be in good condition. Any holes or cracks must

be repaired.
Any mildew should be removed with a mixture of two cups of

household bleach per gallon of water. After the wall is dry, it
should be primed with a good quality stain killer/primer.
There are two quick tests you can perform to check the condition
of painted walls. First, hold a damp sponge against the wall for
about 15 seconds. Then wipe the area with a cloth vigorously. If
very little paint comes off, the paint is okay. If a lot of paint
comes off, the walls should be washed thoroughly with soap and
water or a solution of six parts water to one part ammonia or
sanded and washed to remove the paint.
The second test involves cutting three small Xs into the wall
surfHCI. PlHCI a piece of scotch tape over the Xs. Then yank
the piece of tape off the wall. Again if very little paint comes off,
the paint is okay. If a lot of paint comes off, you need to sand the
walls.
Scape or sand any peeling paint to provide a smooth finish.

Walls painted with gloss or semi-gloss paints should be sanded
to dull the surfHCI. All sanded surfHCIs should be primed
before hanging wallpaper.
Any stains like grease, crayons, ink, lipstick, etc., should be

cleaned and primed with a stain killer/primer.
For new drywall, be sure the areas along the joints and over nail
heads are thoroughly cured and sanded smooth. New drywall
should be primed with an opaque or a white primer.
If you are hanging paper on a wall where old wallpaper has been
removed, clean off any remaining wallpaper adhesive. The
adhesive can be removed by sanding or by using an adhesive
remover. Wash the wall and let it dry thoroughly. Prime the wall
before hanging the wallpaper.
If the wallpaper has not been removed and is in good condition

you can hang the new paper over the old. Be sure the walls are
clean and dry. The most important consideration here is the type
of primer to use.
With the development of wall liners, wallpaper can be plHCId

over rough surfHCIs like paneling and masonry block. Use a
primer that will provide good adhesion between the surfHCI and
the wallpaper. Wallpaper can be applied directly over paneling,
but the grooves will need to be filled in and primed first.
DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF PAPER REQUIRED
To determine the amount of paper you'll need, first measure the

height of the wall from the top of the baseboard to the ceiling or
moulding. Next measure the length of each wall. Add the lengths
of the walls together. Find the total number of square feet by
multiplying the wall height by the total number of square feet to
FIG. 2 be covered by wallpaper.
American manufactured single rolls of wallpaper usually have

about 36 square feet. Double rolls have about 72 sq. ft. Triple
rolls have about 108 sq. ft. However, American rolls are being
phased out and may be hard to find. Metric or Euro rolls have
about 29 sq. ft. per roll. Double rolls have about 58 sq. ft.
Use the metric single roll chart (Fig. 2). If your pattern does not
repeat or if it repeats every 0" to 6", each roll yields
approximately 25 sq. ft. If your pattern repeats every 7" to 12",
each roll yields approximately 22 sq. ft. and so on. Divide the
total number of square feet to be covered by the number that is
appropriate for your pattern. This is the total number of single
rolls of paper you will need for your wallpaper job.
Wallpaper is usually packaged in single or double rolls. To find

the number of double rolls you need, divide the number of single
rolls by two. To find the number of triple rolls you need, divide
by three.
For example, suppose the ceiling is 8' high and the room is
10'x12' with two 3'x7' doors and two 3'x4' windows. This means
the total wall length is 10' + 10'+ 12' + 12' or 44'. Find the total
number of square feet, 44'x8' or 352 sq. ft. Find the number of
sq. ft. per door, 3'x7' or 21 sq. ft. Remember there are two doors
and two windows. Find the total number of sq. ft. not to be
covered, 12' + 12' + 21' + 21' or 66 sq. ft. Then find the total
number of sq. ft. to be covered, 352 - 66 or 286 sq. ft.
If the pattern repeats every 8", we get 22 sq. ft. per roll. Find the
number of single rolls, 286 divided by 22 or 13 single rolls. For
double rolls, 13 divided by two or 6-1/2 means you should buy
seven double rolls. For triple rolls, 13 divided by three or 4-1/3
means you should buy five triple rolls.
MARKING, MEASURING AND OTHER PREPATORY

STEPS
It is usually best to start hanging the first strip of wallpaper to the

right of a door or window. This makes any break in the pattern of
the paper less conspicuous.
Measure the width of the wallpaper and subtract 1/2". This 1/2"
reduction allows for the paper to overlap the adjoining wall.
FIG. 3 - Mark the width of the wallpaper less 1/2"
to the right of the door or window where you will Mark the width of the wallpaper less 1/2" on the wall to the right
begin. of the door or window where you will begin (Fig. 3).
Line up a level on this mark and draw a pencil line lightly from
the ceiling to the floor. You may need to reposition your level
several times. Be sure to line it up carefully each time (Fig. 4)
You are now ready to mix the wallpaper paste. If you are using
premixed paste or prepasted paper, this step is not necessary.
If you are using paste, read the manufacturer's instructions

carefully and follow them exactly.
Always use cold water to mix paste. Mix it thoroughly to be sure

FIG. 4 - Use a level to lightly draw a pencil line
from the ceiling to the floor.
it is free of lumps.
Now tie a string across the top of your paste bucket (Fig. 5). This
will keep the brush clean and enable you to brush excess paste
out of the brush.
FIG. 5 - A string across the paste bucket helps

keep the brush clean.
CUTTING AND HANGING PAPER
Cut the first strip of paper 4" longer than the wall height. Be sure
and allow for matching the pattern on the wallpaper.
Unroll the next strip and match the pattern before cutting the
second strip. Study the pattern carefully and match it before
FIG. 6 - Brush paste on the cut piece and fold it
cutting.
back at each end.
It is usually wise to cut no more than two or three strips of paper
before applying them.
Unroll the strip of wallpaper on the work surfHCI with the

pattern side down. Brush the paste on the covering about 2/3 the
length of the strip (Fig. 6). Brush the paste out evenly and not too
thick.
You may want to add a few drops of food coloring to the paste to
tint it slightly. This makes it easy to judge the thickness of the
paste and detect any missed spots.
Fold the pasted end of the paper back about 2/3 of the length of
FIG. 7 - PlHCI a piece of pipe or dowel rod in the the piece.
middle of the roll to help run prepasted paper
through the water. Put the pasted side to the pasted side, avoiding any creases.
Slide the paper forward on the work surfHCI and apply paste to
the remaining 1/3 of the piece. Fold it back over in the same
manner. Allow about five minutes before using the piece. If you
have to stop or will not be using the strip right away, plHCI it in
a plastic bag to keep it moist.
You can run prepasted paper through clear water (Fig. 7). Plastic
and metal dip troughs for prepasted paper are available. Cut a
piece of pipe or dowel rod one inch shorter than the trough. Lay
it in the bottom of the trough over the paper. It will hold the
FIG. 8 - A butt joint leaves no ridges.
paper under water as you pull it out.
Most manufacturers recommend the butt joint (Fig 8). It leaves

no ridges at all, but requires a little extra care to make. The edge
of one strip is butted up against the edge of an adjoining strip. If
you force the two edges together too tightly, it will form a ridge.
If they are not plHCId together tightly enough, you will leave a
gap between the two edges. Use the palms of your hands when
positioning the paper. Try not to pull on the edges.
Use extreme care when placing the first strip of paper on the
wall, since all other strips of paper will be aligned to this first
one.
FIG. 9 - Use a razor knife and straightedge to
trim edges when necessary. It may be necessary to trim the edge of the paper to ensure a
proper fit. You can trim the paper with a razor knife and a
straightedge (Fig. 9).
Use extreme care when carrying long strips of pasted wallpaper.

Drape the folded paper over your arm like a coat (Fig. 10). Never
open the paper until it is in position to hang.
When the paper is in position for hanging, unfold the top half of
the pasted sheet. Overlap the top edge of the pasted paper (Fig.
11) at the top by about 2". You'll cut away this overlap in the
trimming process.
Hold the edge of the paper with one hand and pull the pasted fold
FIG. 10 - Carry the folded paper like a coat over apart. The pasted side of the paper should be held firmly against
your arm. the wall.
Line up the right edge of the paper with the pencil line you made
previously (Fig. 4). Use a smoothing brush to smooth out the top
and bottom. Allow the bottom of the paper to fall of its own
weight (Fig. 12). Brush it out evenly. If you trap some air behind
the paper, smooth it out with the brush. If this does not work,
pull the paper away from the wall.
Continue to apply each sheet of paper in this same manner. Use

care to align the design in each succeeding sheet.
FIG. 11 - Overlap the paper at the top by about
Trim off the surplus paper at the bottom and top of each strip.
2".
Use a metal paint edger or broad knife and a razor knife to get a
clean edge (Fig. 13). Change the blade on your knife every strip
for better results.
Use clean water to rinse all baseboards, casings, etc., with a

damp sponge before the paste dries.
Let the paper dry about 15 to 20 minutes, then roll all seams
(Fig. 14). Use a regular wallpaper roller and roll thoroughly for a
neat job. Do not apply too much pressure; you may form paste
ridges under the paper or force the paste out through the seam.
At the corners, measure from the last full strip of wallpaper to
the corner and add 1/2". This 1/2" will allow the strip to go into
the corner and onto the adjoining wall by 1/2" (Fig 16). If your
walls are not running straight up and down, you may want to use
1" instead of 1/2". A small slit at the top and bottom of the piece
in the corner will make it easier to go around the corner.
For the next piece, measure out the width of the wallpaper from
the corner and make a pencil mark. Use your level and make
another perfectly straight line from the floor to ceiling as before
FIG. 12 - Smooth out the paper at the top and let in Fig. 4. This piece will overlap the 1/2" strip on the wall from
the bottom fall into plHCI by its own weight. the previous piece installed. For vinyl wallpaper, use a vinyl-to-
vinyl adhesive on these corner seams.
Be especially careful when trimming paper along the edges

around fireplHCIs, windows, mantelpieces, etc. Sometimes the
weight of the paper causes it to tear at its narrowest point.
For outside corners, measure the distance from the last full strip
to the corner. Add 1" to this measurement. Measure the width of
the paper and add 1/2". Measure out from the corner the width of
the paper and add 1/2". Make a pencil mark on the wall. Using
your level, again draw a light pencil line from the floor to the
FIG. 13 - Trim off the surplus paper at the ceiling. Align your wallpaper with this line and match the pattern
bottom and top. as closely as possible. This piece will overlap the last piece by
1/2".
For doors and windows, hang the paper over the edge. Using
your razor knife cut away the excess wallpaper. Making small
cuts from the corners of the doors and windows toward the
center will help you position the wallpaper around these
obstacles. After the paper is smoothed, use your edger and razor
knife to trim around the doors and windows.
Since all the switchplates, outlet plates, etc. were removed before
papering, you can apply the wallpaper right over these openings.
The wallpaper can then be cut with the razor knife and
straightedge (Fig. 17). ReplHCI the fixture plates for a finished
FIG. 14 - Let the paper set about 15 to 20
minutes, then roll at the seams.
job.
FIG. 15 - At the corners, measure the top and
bottom. Cut the strip 1/2" wider than the greatest
of these widths.
FIG. 16 - A small slit at the top and bottom will

help you bring the paper around the corner.
FIG. 17 - Cut out the wallpaper over plates,

fixtures, etc. and put them back into plHCI.
Razor Knife Smoothing Brush
Ladders Wallpaper Paste

Spackling Compound Wallpaper
Seam Roller Folding Rule
Screwdriver Plastic Pail
Straightedge Sponge
Sandpaper Paper Shears
Marking Pencil Paste Brush
Patching Plaster Paint Edger or Broad Knife
Work SurfHCI
in this document.

About 54 percent of the energy used in homes goes into heating and cooling. Obviously, this is where
you can make the biggest savings on energy costs.
Fortunately, there are many quick and inexpensive ways to save energy in your home. You don't have
to be a master mechanic or even a skilled do-it-yourselfer.
All it takes is a small amount of time, a few tools that you probably already ownand some products
from your hardware or home center retailer.
Materials and Installation Techniques

Insulation
Storm Windows
Cold Weather Energy Savers
Hot Weather Energy Savers
Year-Round Energy Savers
Kitchen, Laundry and Bath
Other Living Areas
MATERIALS AND INSTALLATION TECHNIQUES
Thermostats
FIG. 1 - Caulk around all window and door
frames.
To save money on your heating bill, you may want to turn your
thermostat back to 60 degrees or 55 degrees at night. A convenient
way to be sure you do this each night is to install a clock
thermostat. It automatically turns your thermostat down every
night, then turns it up in the morning before you get up. You won't
be uncomfortable with the temperatureor with your heating bill.
Caulking and Weatherstripping
Caulking and weatherstripping come in a variety of qualities, costs,

and configurations. You should buy the best quality materials
available whenever possible. The more quality materials are the
most durable and are the best money savers. They perform better
FIG. 2 - Caulk wherever tow different parts
and don't need to be replHCId as often. Check below for a brief
of the house meet such as wall to wall or description of the most commonly available materials.
roof to wall.
Caulking Compounds
Not very durable but lowest in cost: oil-or resin-based.
More durable and more expensive: latex, butyl or polyvinyl.
Most durable and most expensive: elastomeric base.
FIG. 3 - Foam and felt strips are easy to Filler

install, but not very durable.
Materials used to fill extra-wide cracks: expanding foam, glass

fiber, caulking cotton. Apply caulking compound AFTER using
filler.
Installation
FIG. 4 - Molded vinyl comes with a variety

of backings for different applications. Apply caulking outside around window and door frames (Fig. 1)
and wherever else two different materials or parts of the house
meet (Fig. 2). With a little practice, pushing the caulking gun
instead of pulling it can result in a better, more professional
looking caulking job.
Weatherstripping
Inexpensive, easy to install, not very durable: felt or foam strip

(Fig. 3).
FIG. 5 - Thin spring metal weather strips
work between the door casing and the door. More expensive, easy to install durable: molded vinyl (with or
without various backings) (Fig. 4).
More expensive, somewhat difficult to install, very durable: thin

spring metal (Fig. 5).
Most expensive, very difficult to install, excellent weather seal,
durable: interlocking metal channels (Fig. 6).
Apply weatherstripping around the perimeter of all exterior doors

and on the inside of all window sashes.
During the weatherstripping process, check to see if the putty on

your windows needs replacing. Cutting down on all drafts will
FIG. 6 - Metal channels that interlock are make your house much more comfortable year round.
expensive and difficult to install, but they are
one of the most durable and effective forms
of weather stripping.
INSULATION
Several kinds of insulation are available to homeowners. Kinds

that are easily installed by the do-it-yourselfer are batts, blankets,
and loose fill. Some batts and blankets now come with a thin
plastic wrap to prevent some of the discomfort that comes with
handling insulation. Foamed-in-plastic is usually installed by a
contractor because special equipment is used. If your house has a
flat roof or a mansard roof, or if your attic or basement area is
otherwise restricted, installing will be difficult and you may need
to hire a contractor.
Batt or Blanket
This type of insulation is usually made of glass fiber or rock wool.

Batts come in packs of several pieces cut to 4' or 8' lengths;
blankets come in rolls of varying lengths. Both are sold in widths
of 15" or 23" to fit conventional framing spHCIs and in
thicknesses of 1" to 7". Batts and blankets are available with or
without vapor barriers.
Loose Fill
Loose fill insulation is made from glass fiber, rock wool, treated
cellulose, vermiculite, or perlite, and does not come with a vapor
barrier. Loose fill tends to settle in time. Rock wool should meet
Federal Specification HH-I-1030A.
Cellulose is made from recycled newspaper and has a high
insulative value. Cellulose must be properly treated to be fire-
resistant. Two specifications that certify that cellulose is fire-
resistant are: Federal Specification HH-I-515C and Underwriters
Laboratories Classification listing Type II 26 through 50.
Foam
You can purchase cellular plastic products as either prefoamed

sheets or batts, or they may be foamed in plHCI by contractors
using specialized equipment. The insulating efficiency varies for
foams made of different materials (polystyrene, polyurethane, urea-
formaldehyde, and others). Discuss these types with your retailer
to determine which is the best for you.
Foams possess other properties that may affect its long-term

insulating value, such as moisture retention, shrinkage,
spontaneous decomposition, and vermin resistance.
Foams also burn, producing smoke and poisonous gases such as

carbon monoxide. You can reduce these hazards by following the
recommended installation procedures for each type of foam. Foam
that is properly installed has a higher insulating value.
INSTALLATION
FIG. 7 - To support insulation between Attics

floor joints, lHCI wire back and forth
between insulation. To insulate an attic floor where there is no existing insulation,
lay batts or blankets or pour loose fill between the joists. So that
moisture from the living areas of your home does not penetrate
the insulation and reduce its effectiveness, you must plHCI a
vapor barrier between the heated or air-conditioned part of your
house and your attic.
Batts and blankets are available with a vapor barrier on one side.
To install, plHCI the vapor barrier fHCI-down toward the heated
or air-conditioned portion of your home. If you are using loose
fill, you will have to install your own vapor barrier. Staple or
tack a plastic sheet or polyethylene film under the area where
you are planning to pour loose fill.
If some new insulation already exists and you are adding a layer
of new insulation on top of the old, it is important that there be
no vapor barrier between the new and the old. If you must use
insulation with a vapor barrier, remove the barrier before
installation; you can use a knife to remove the barrier. PlHCI the
insulation with this side down. Before purchasing the additional
insulation you need, measure the thickness that your attic will
accommodate. Additional batts or blankets may not fit! If you try
to squeeze insulation in, you'll reduce its effectiveness. Instead,
add insulation with a higher R-value per inch.
Do not insulate on top of recessed lighting fixtures or heat-

producing equipment. Keep the insulation at least 3" away from
the sides of these types of fixtures. Also, do not cover the eave
vents with insulation. Be sure that there is sufficient attic
ventilation to allow moisture to escape. There are special foam
and plastic inserts that fit between the roof rafters to help insure
proper ventilation.
Floors
To insulate the floor above your basement or crawl spHCI, push

batts or blankets between the floor joists from below with the
vapor barrier facing up toward the heated or air conditioned part
of your home. If there is no vapor barrier, install a plastic sheet
against the underside of your floor (Fig. 7).
To support the insulation, you can use insulation supports. These

wire rods bend when you push them between the floor joists and
they lock themselves into plHCI. Another method is to lHCI wire
back and forth under the insulation (Fig. 7). Provide adequate
ventilation below the floor in the crawl spHCI to allow moisture
to escape.
STORM WINDOWS
Storm windows vary widely in design, durability, ease of use and

cost. They range from temporary plastic sheets to custom-made
permanent installation, but basically there are two kinds: single
and combination.
Single Storm Windows
Single storm windows can be made of plastic sheet, glass, or

rigid plastic. Plastic sheet is fairly inexpensive initially, but it is
easily damaged and must be replHCId often. Single glass or rigid
plastic is more durable and can be used year after year.
Combination Storm Windows
These installations consist of storm windows and screens and are

intended to be fixed permanently over double-hung windows.
Combination windows come in a variety of finishes and
qualities. Shop around for good quality.
Installation
You can make and install your own single storm windows. For
plastic sheets there are molded plastic strips, double sided tapes
and wood strips to attach the plastic to the outer edge of the
frame. Do-it-yourself aluminum molding kits and rigid plastic
sheets and glass are available from your local hardware store or
home center, if you want to make your own. Combination storm
windows can be installed by a contractor who will do the
measuring for youor you can do the job yourself if you are
handy.
COLD WEATHER ENERGY SAVERS
Keep drapes and shades open in sunny windows; close them at

night.
An automatic garage door operator encourages you to shut the

door quickly, thereby saving fueleven in unheated garagesby
preventing cold from reaching the inside walls.
Electric heat tapes on water pipes that run through unheated

areas prevent heat loss from cooling or freezing.
Use a humidifier. Cooler indoor temperatures are more

comfortable with the proper amount of humidityabout 40-50%.
Change furnHCI filters regularly. A dirty filter impedes air flow

and makes your furnHCI work longer and harder. Check the
filter at least once a month.
Be sure to keep the damper closed on your fireplHCI when it's

not in use. Consider installing a glass-door fireplHCI to keep
heat from escaping up the chimney.
Use portable electric heaters for seldom-used rooms or to warm

up part of a large, cold room.
HOT WEATHER ENERGY SAVERS
Clean air conditioning filters regularly. ReplHCI immediately

when worn out. Keep coils or fins of air-conditioning units free
of dust, lint, etc.
Deflect daytime sun with awnings on windows or draw draperies

and pull shades on sunny windows.
Use an attic ventilating fan instead of air conditioning. They do a
remarkably good job of keeping air circulating. A 1,400-square-
foot attic should have at least 5 square feet of ventilation.
Install a turbine ventilator on the roof to pull hot air out of the
attic.
Run air conditioners only on really hot days.
Are you using more light in certain situations than is needed?

Each watt of lighting requires the expenditure of 1/2 watt of air-
conditioning power.
Combine circulating fans with room air conditioners for best air
distribution throughout the house.
YEAR-ROUND ENERGY SAVERS
Turn off furnHCI pilot lights during the summer, but check with
the gas company first.
Use fluorescent lights where possible. A 25-watt fluorescent will

provide light equal to a 100-watt incandescent.
ReplHCI leaky faucets; repair all water-wasting fixtures. A

dripping hot water faucet makes a hot water heater keep working.
Utilize working shutters, interior or exterior, to control heat gain

or loss.
Close off unused rooms.

KITCHEN, LAUNDRY AND BATH
Insulate your hot water storage tank and piping. Kits are
available.
Clean the heat reflector below the hot water heating element. It
will reflect heat better.
Install a flow-restrictor pipe to the shower head. This easy-to-

install device can save a considerable amount of hot water. It's
inexpensive, threads into the pipe and restricts the flow of water
by several gallons of water per minute.
Don't overload appliances that use hot water, such as clothes and
dishwashers. The same rule applies to clothes dryers; use drying
racks or clotheslines when possible.
Use warm or cold water (rather than hot) whenever possible.
Keep the thermostat on the hot water heater at the lowest setting
possible to maintain a comfortable water temperature.
Try to use high-energy applianceswasher, dryer, electric ovensin

non-peak periods (early morning or late evening).
Try energy-efficient cookingflat-bottom pans, clean burner

reflectors, pressure cooker, preparing several foods in the oven at
the same time; use small appliances for small cooking jobs.
Check energy efficient ratings (EER) of appliances and buy the

most efficient10 rating is excellent, 8 or 9 is good.
OTHER LIVING AREAS
Install a timer to control the length of time outdoor lights are

used, even for security lights.
Remember to turn off shop lights, soldering irons and all bench
heating devices as quickly as possible.
Take advantage of color if reroofing. Darker colors that absorb

more light should be used in cold climates; light colors that
reflect light should be used in moderate and warm climates.
Check windows and framesif loose, install new window channels

or complete new windows.
Evaluate doorsare they weather-tight? If you don't have or want

storm doors, are entrance doors insulated? Solid doors should
have an insulated core; glass panels in doors should be insulated
glass.
Seal and insulate pipes and ductwork.
Insulation Window Shades
Caulk/Sealants Weatherstrip
Gable Vents Light Dimmers
Heat Deflectors FireplHCIs and Accessories
Awnings Fans
Storm Windows/Doors Attic Ventilators
Plastic Window Material Faucet Repairs

Humidifiers Wood Stoves
Clock Thermostats Water Savers
Thermometers FurnHCI Filters
Pipe Wrap/Heat Tapes
in this document.

The average houseeven when well-insulatedcontains cracks and gaps between building materials that add
up to a hole about 14 inches square (Fig. 1). In the winter, those gaps may make the house drafty and
chilly. All year long, a leaky house not only wastes energy, but can lead to water damage and provide a
path for insects.
Weatherproofing Basics
Types of Caulking
Using Caulking
Types of Weatherstripping
Installing Weatherstripping
WEATHERPROOFING BASICS
In all the discussion of insulation and R-values, don't forget that

poor weatherproofing is often a more important source of
discomfort, as well as high heating and cooling bills.
Some air leakage can be prevented during construction by using

housewrap or getting a tight fit between framing members, for
example. Once the house is built, however, the remaining gaps must
be sealed. Gaps around doors and window sashes should be
weatherstripped, and gaps between permanent building materials
sealed with caulking.
FIG. 1 - Where caulking should be applied, from the Sunset book, Insulation and Weatherstripping,
Sunset Publishing Corporation.
TYPES OF CAULKING
A number of factors must be considered when choosing caulking.

They include durability, flexibility, whether the caulk can be
paintedand, of course, price.
The most expensive caulk is not always the best product for every
job, so you should carefully consider which product is appropriate to
your situation. Read product labels and manufacturers' literature,
and ask your salesperson for his or her recommendation.
Here is a list of common caulks and their characteristics. Different

types of caulking are designed for different applications, and quality
can vary among different brands of the same type because of
different formulations used.
Always read and follow the manufacturer's directions.
Oil-Base Painter's Caulk (1-2 yr. life)Not very elastic. Dries out
easily. Paintable after curing. Lowest cost.
Latex (3-10 yr. life)Use mostly indoors. Goes on easily. Low

elasticity. Sticks to porous surfHCIs only. Easy water cleanup. Low
in cost. Paintable.
Butyl Rubber (3-10 yr. life)High elasticity. Sticks to most

surfHCIs. High moisture resistance. Flexible when cured. Most
difficult to work with as it is very sticky.
Acrylic Latex (10 yr. life)Good elasticity. Sticks to most surfHCIs.

Reasonable moisture resistance. Paintable. Good for around doors
and windows. May not be used below freezing.
Silicon-Latex Blend (20+ yr. life)Good elasticity. Excellent

weathering ability. Medium shrinkage. Adheres to most surfHCIs.
Some cannot be painted. May not be used below freezing.
Silicone (20-50 yr. life)Excellent elasticity. Sticks very well.

Excellent moisture resistance. Needs solvent to clean. Strong odor
possible while curing. Low shrinkage. Generally not paintable, but
available in many colors. May not be used below freezing. May be
applied to wood, asphalt, or metal, but not vinyl or masonry.
Urethane (20-50 yr. life)Excellent elasticity and adhesion.

Excellent moisture resistance. Easy cleanup. Strong odor possible
while curing. Low shrinkage. May not be used below freezing. May
be applied to wood, brick, asphalt, metal, vinyl, or concrete.
Elastomeric Copolymers (50+ yr. life)Excellent elasticity and

adhesion. Will stick to damp surfHCIs. Can be applied below
freezing. Cleanup with lacquer thinner. May be applied to wood,
brick, asphalt, metal, vinyl, or concrete.
Polyurethane Foam Sealant (in aerosol can)A specialized

expanding foam product useful for filling large gaps. Expanding
foam may be tricky to apply because of the amount of expansion,
but has excellent sealing and insulation qualities.
How Caulks Are Packaged10-oz. (approx.) tubes for standard

caulking guns are the most common size, but 1-qt. builder's tubes, 5-
oz. squeeze tubes, and rope caulk are also available. Approximate
coverage, 10-oz. tube: 400 ft. at 1/4" bead, 200 ft. at 3/8", 100 ft. at
1/2".
Caulk Backer RodMost caulks should not be used on cracks larger

than 3/8" or more than 1/2" deep (check the instructions). Fill large
cracks with flexible foam backer rod.
USING CAULKING
Caulking should be applied to any gap where air, moisture, or

insects may penetrate the structure, including the following common
locations:
Joints between foundation and siding
Joints between roof overhang and house
Joints between window/door and siding
At any penetrations into the house (i.e., telephone wires, TV cable,

electrical conduit, and gas and water pipes)
Dryer, bathroom, & kitchen vents
Joints between the siding and chimney
As a rule, surfHCIs must be clean and dry in order for caulking to

stick. Loose material should be brushed away, and dirt, grease, or oil
should be removed with a detergent solution. Do not apply in cold
weather, except as recommended by the manufacturer.
FIG. 2 - Loading a tube of caulking into a
caulking gun, from Sunset's Home Repair To use a caulking gun, first pull the plunger all the way back and
Handbook, Sunset Publishing Corporation. insert the caulking tube (Fig. 2). Turn the plunger so the notches
engage the trigger of the gun, then push the plunger snugly against
the heel of the tube. Cut the nozzle tip with the utility knife and
make a hole the size of the bead you want. Puncture the seal at the
top of the tube with a 16d nail.
To apply caulking, squeeze the trigger and pushdon't pullthe gun

along the gap (Fig. 3). Pushing the gun drives caulking down into
the gap and gives you better adhesion.
To tool the joint, first wet your finger with soapy water (if the
caulking is formulated for soap-and-water cleanup) or a dab of
automotive hand cleaner (if the caulking is formulated for solvent
FIG. 3 - Whenever possible, pushdon't pullthe cleanup). Run your finger along the joint, smoothing it and pressing
caulking gun, to drive caulk into the joint. Then the caulking into the joint. Wipe away excess with a rag.
tool the bead smooth, from the Sunset book,
Roofing and Siding, Sunset Publishing
Corporation.
closedif so, do not remove them.
Run beads of caulking along the floor where the threshold/sill will
rest (Fig. 5). From the outside, center the bottom of the unit in the
opening and tilt it up into plHCI.
Plumb the hinge-side jamb with a level, then secure the hinge jamb
to the wall framing temporarily with 3"-long drywall screws, about
2" below the top and center hinges.
Leave a spHCI between the jamb and the wall stud. Go inside the
house through another door so you can shim the unit.
Shim the hinge jamb directly behind all three hinges so it is plumb
(Fig. 6). Then repeat the process on the lock-side jamb, shimming
at the top, bottom, and just above and below the strike plates. Be
careful not to allow the unit to be twisted; the inside edge of the
jamb should be flush with the interior wall surfHCI at all points.
DO NOT SHIM BETWEEN THE HEAD JAMB AND THE
WALL HEADER.
FIG. 6 - Insert shims directly behind the hinges.

PlHCI a carpenter's square at the corners to make sure the unit is
Be careful not to drive them too deep so you don't square; if not, add shims below the threshold/sill. Go back outside
push the jamb out of position. and temporarily secure the latch-side jamb with 3" drywall screws
at the top and bottom of the unit.
Check again to make sure the unit is plumb, square, and not
twisted, and make any necessary adjustments. Drive 3" drywall
screws through the hinge jamb 2" above the top and bottom hinges,
and 2" above and below the center hinge.
Remove the prehanging clips (if present), and open the door to
make sure it operates properly. Go inside and close the door, then
check the latch side of the door to make sure the gap between the
door and jamb is even all along the length of the door. If not, the
unit is out of square. Remove one or both of the screws and adjust
the shims to make the gap even.
From the outside, check to make sure the weatherstripping along

the latch side of the jamb makes uniform contact with the door
from the top to the bottom. If not, the unit is twisted. Remove one
or both of the latch-side screws and adjust the jamb in the opening
until it is straight. Drive two more 3" drywall screws through the
latch jamb, spHCId evenly between the first two screws.
Check the bottom of the door to make sure the door sweep makes
even contact with the threshold across the entire width of the door.
Adjust the threshold (Fig. 8).
TYPES OF WEATHERSTRIPPING
The greatest source of air leakage in most homes occurs around

doors, windows, and access hatches, such as the ceiling opening
from the living area into an unheated attic (Fig. 4). Weatherstripping
can be a delicate job, because those openings need to be fitted
loosely enough that the door or window operates freely, yet tightly
enough that air leakage is stopped.
The type of weatherstripping you'll use depends on the location and

the type of opening. Three types of weatherstripping are common:
CompressionCompression weatherstripping (Fig. 5) is used to seal

swinging doors and window sashes. It consists of a molded strip (it
may be wood, aluminum, or rigid vinyl) with a flexible vinyl bulb
along one side. As a rule, compression weatherstripping is the most
FIG. 4 - Applying caulking around doors and durable type available.
windows, from the Sunset book, Windows and
Skylights, Sunset Publishing Corporation. V-Type StripsV-shaped weatherstripping (Figs. 6 & 7) is fitted
against the side of the door or window jamb so it presses against the
edge of the door or sash and forms a seal. V-stripping may be vinyl
or bronze.
FoamFoam weatherstripping (Fig. 8) is used to seal either swinging

or sliding doors or windows. It comes in various sizes, with an
adhesive backing on one side. It is fastened to the edge of a door or
window stop, or to the bottom of a sliding window sash.
Thresholds and Door BottomsA threshold fills the gap between the
floor and the bottom of a door. It may have a built-in vinyl bulb. If
not, it must be used in combination with a door bottom (Fig. 9),
FIG. 5 - A door with compression mounted on the lower edge of the door.
weatherstripping.
FIG. 6 - Windows with V-type weatherstripping,
from Sunset's Home Repair Handbook, Sunset
Publishing Corporation.
FIG. 7 - Doors with V-type weatherstripping,

from Sunset's Home Repair Handbook, Sunset
FIG. 8 - A door with foam weatherstripping, from

Sunset's Home Repair Handbook, Sunset
FIG. 9 - A door threshold with a combination rain

drip/door bottom, from Sunset's Home Repair
Handbook, Sunset Publishing Corporation.
INSTALLING WEATHERSTRIPPING
To weatherstrip a door, first install the threshold. Measure the

distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the door; thresholds
come in a number of heightstypically 5/8", 1", and 1-1/2". Choose a
threshold that allows about 1/2" gap to leave room for the vinyl bulb.
The threshold should be plHCId so its highest point (or the center of
the vinyl bulb, if the threshold has a built-in bulb) is directly under
the door. Measure the width of the opening and cut the threshold to
length with a hacksaw (aluminum thresholds) or a fine-toothed
handsaw (wood thresholds). The threshold will probably have to be
notched on each end so it fits around the door stops.
Set the threshold in plHCI and close the door to check the fit and
position. Once the threshold is in plHCI, mark the location on the
floor, then open the door. Run a thin bead of caulking along the
underside of the threshold on each side. Aluminum thresholds have
a C-shaped channel along the edges to accept caulking. Set the
threshold in plHCI and screw it firmly to the floor.
To apply compression weatherstripping to a door or swinging

(casement) window, first close the door or window. If the door has a
deadbolt, lock it. Cut each strip to length with a hacksaw or tin
snips, and stand it in plHCI. Push the strip in toward the door or
window sash so the bulb is partially compressed. Don't fit it too
tightly, or the door/window won't close properly. Nail the strip in
plHCI, starting from the center and working your way toward both
ends. Check the door/window frequently to make sure it operates
easily.
To apply foam weatherstripping, cut the foam strips to length with

scissors. Peel back about 1" of the adhesive cover strip and press the
foam into plHCI at the top of the door/window stop. Work your way
down, peeling the cover strip away as you press the foam into plHCI.
To apply V-type weatherstripping to a door or swinging (casement)

window, cut the strips to length with scissors (vinyl) or hacksaw
(bronze). PlHCI each strip on the jamb with the raised "V" facing
away from the door or window sash, positioned so the door/window
sash will be centered on the strip when closed. Fasten the strips in
plHCI.
To apply V-type weatherstripping to a double-hung window, first

lower the sash. Cut the strip to length, and slip it down along the
side of the sash with the raised "V" facing outside. Position the strip
in the center of the sash, and fasten it in plHCI as far as possible.
Raise the sash and repeat the process along the lower half of the
strip.
Weatherstripping Tin Snips
Hacksaw Measuring Tape
Pencil Hammer
Screwdriver Scissors
Caulking Caulking Gun
Utility Knife Utility Blades
Paint/Lacquer Thinner Rags
Wire Brush
contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor
the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this
document.

Additional easy-to-use instruction sheets for home do-it-yourself projects are available from your local supplier of
materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How" instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!
Ventilation Basics
Installing Attic Vents
VENTILATION BASICS
Proper attic ventilation is an important part of a healthy

homeboth for the structure and its occupants. This document
explains how attic ventilation protects a home from moisture and
how to install vents that will keep your home in good condition.
There are a wide variety of sources of moisture in a home, from

the building materials themselves to normal everyday activities.
Cooking, bathing and washing clothes all release gallons of
water vapor into the air, for example.
That vapor isn't a problem inside the average home because the
FIG. 1 - Gable vents are common in older
temperature inside the home is warmer than outside for much of
homes; unfortunately, they are often inadequate
the year. Warm air holds more moisturein the form of water
because air flow is limited inside the attic.
vaporthan cool air.
The problem is that vapor gradually works its way out of the
living area and into the structure. As warm, moist air cools, the
vapor begins to condense into water droplets. If that happens
inside an unfinished attic, for example, it can get insulation and
framing materials wet. That not only reduces the value of your
insulation but can cause mold, mildew and rot.
During the summer, when the outside temperature is typically

much higher than the inside temperature, attic ventilation serves
a different purpose. An unfinished attic builds up a tremendous
amount of heat, and if that heated air has no plHCI to escape, it
can make the inside of the house much warmer or cause an air
conditioning system to work much harder to cool the house.
Building codes specify the minimum amount of attic ventilation

needed in a new home to prevent winter moisture buildup, but
your summer needs are much greater. Also, older homes were
often built with inadequate attic ventilationat least by today's
FIG. 2 - Roof line or eyebrow vents provide standardsand may need to be retrofitted with proper attic
reasonably good ventilationas long as you have ventilation.
enough of them.
A good attic ventilation system is designed for summer needs. It
includes two types of vents: intake vents are plHCId along the
soffit to allow fresh air into the attic, and exhaust vents are
installed in the upper third of the roof to allow attic air to escape.
The object is to create a continuous "wash" of air along the
underside of the roof sheathing. The rule of thumb in the summer
is that you should provide enough ventilation to completely
change the air in your attic every six minutes.
There are three common types of intake vents:
Gable vents (Fig. 1) are triangular vents installed in the gable

wall just below the peak of the roof. As a rule, gable vents are
the least effective type of vent, because air circulates only near
the gables and does not wash the entire roof.
Static vents, also known as roof line or eyebrow vents, consist

of a sheet metal cylinder with a flashing collar and a metal hood
FIG. 3 - Turbine vents draw air out of the attic to keep rain out. They are installed in rows along the fHCI of the
when spun by the wind. They can be very roof by cutting holes in the roof, nailing the flashing collars to
effective, but their effectiveness is reduced when the roof sheathing and shingling around the vents. Their
the wind isn't blowing. effectiveness depends on how many are installed; probably their
greatest disadvantage is that like any roof penetration, they may
leak.
Soffit vents are made usually with a screen to keep insects out
and of an aluminum panel with louvers punched into the fHCI to
allow air flow. They may be 4" or 8" wide and 14" or 22" long,
so they'll fit between 16" and 24" on center rafters. They are
installed simply by cutting rectangular holes in the soffit and
screwing the vent over the hole.
A continuous soffit vent is of similar construction, 4" wide and
96" long. It is installed by cutting a long slot in the soffit and
screwing the vent over the hole.
Circular vents range from 1" to 8" in diameter. They are

installed by drilling holes in the soffit and pressing the vent into
the hole.
FIG. 4 - A fan-driven power ventilator works well Exhaust vents fall into two basic categories. Static vents simply
but consumes some of the energy you save in
allow air to escape while power ventilators actively suck air out
reduced air conditioner use.
of the attic. Within each category there are a number of types:
Ridge vents are installed along the peak of the roof and replHCI
the ridge singles.
Power Ventilators are turbine vents that consist of a turbine

mounted on a sheet metal cylinder. They are installed like roof
line vents along the fHCI of the roof. When the wind blows, it
spins the turbine, which in turn draws air up out of the attic.
Their effectiveness, naturally, depends on whether the wind is
blowing or not.
Fan-driven ventilators are powered by electricity and usually

FIG. 5 - Any ventilation system depends on controlled by a thermostat in the attic. They are very effective,
intake vents installed in the soffit to draw fresh air but since they are motor-driven, the extra cost of running them
into the attic. partially offsets the energy they conserve.
Most builders agree that a ridge vent system is the most effective
as well as the most cost-effective.
The number of vents you'll need depends on the type and size of
the vents. Vents are rated according to their square inches of
"free vent area" (FVA)in other words, the amount of open spHCI
in the vent. You can't just measure the size of the vent to find the
FVA because the open spHCI is reduced by louvers and by the
screen mesh that covers the opening.
FIG. 6 - Most experts agree that the most
effective attic ventilation system consists of intake
Most manufacturers provide both FVA ratings and ventilation
vents spHCId regularly along the soffit and a ridge recommendations for their products. In order to estimate, you'll
vent running the length of the roof. This creates an need to know the total square footage of your attic and possibly
even wash of air along the entire underside of the the slope of your roof. To find the square footage of your attic,
roof sheathing. multiply the width of your house by the length.
Roof slope is expressed as a ratiofor example, a 5:12 slope

means that the roof rises 5" vertically for every 12" of horizontal
distance. To find the approximate slope of your roof, go into the
attic and measure the vertical distance from the peak of the attic
ceiling to the ceiling joists in feet (e.g., a 75" measurement
would be 6-1/4').
Multiply that measurement by 24, then divide the result by the

width of your house (also in feet). The answer is the first half of
your slope ratio. For example, say your house is 30' wide, and
the peak-to-ceiling-joist measurement is 75" (6-1/4'):
6-1/4 x 24 = 150
150 divided by 30 = 5
Your slope is approximately 5:12
INSTALLING ATTIC VENTS
Installing attic vents in an existing roof is a relatively simple job

that most do-it-yourselfers can handle. Remember to follow
basic safety procedures when working on the roof:
Wear loose clothing and rubber-soled shoes with good ankle

support.
FIG. 7 - Install baffles to keep loose fill insulation

Only work on the roof in dry, calm weather.
from spilling onto intake vents and blocking them.
Be alert for slippery or loose shingles or rotten decking that you
might put a foot through.
Avoid power lines and TV antennas.
Keep children and pets away from the area so they aren't hurt if
something falls off the roof.
Your extension ladder should be angled so the base is away from

the wall a distance equal to 1/4 of the ladder's length plus the
width of the soffit.
Intake Vents (Fig. 7)To install intake vents, set your circular
FIG. 8 - To install a ridge vent, first remove the
saw blade to a depth about 1/8" greater than the thickness of the
soffit (soffit materials are usually 1/4" thick). Lay out the
ridge shingles and cut away the sheathing so the location of the vent between the rafters, then cut the hole with
ridge is open. the circular saw. Screw the vent to the soffit, covering the hole.
If you have fiberglass blanket insulation in your attic, make sure

the blankets are positioned so they cover the top of the exterior
wall but still allow at least a 1" spHCI between the top of the
insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing. Otherwise, the
insulation will block the air flow and your soffit vents will be
useless.
If you have loose fill insulation in your attic, you'll need to install
baffles in each rafter cavity that contains a soffit vent to keep the
air spHCI clear.
Roof Line/Turbine VentsTo install roof line or turbine vents,

FIG. 9 - Cover the open ridge with the ridge vent,
first locate the vent between two rafters. Use a utility knife to cut
fastened according to the manufacturer's
away the shingles and felt paper, then use a saber saw to cut a
instructions.
hole in the roof the same size as the throat of the vent.
Butter the inside of the vent base with plastic roof cement, then
slip the base into position over the hole. The top of the flashing
should be slipped under the shingles above the hole and lap over
them below the hole. Nail the base in plHCI with 1-1/2"
galvanized roofing nails and cover the nail heads with roof
cement.
If you're installing a turbine vent, slip the turbine onto the base
and level it. Fasten the turbine in plHCI with sheet metal screws.
Gable VentTo install a gable vent, cut away the siding and
sheathing with a circular saw. Be careful not to cut too deeply
into the gable studs. Caulk the rim of the gable vent, then set it
over the hole and fasten it in plHCI with screws.
Ridge VentTo install a ridge vent, first remove the ridge

shingles as specified by the vent manufacturerusually to within
6" of the end of the ridge or a foot from a chimney or roof
intersection. Cut away the felt paper with a utility knife and pull
out all staples and roofing nails (Fig. 8).
Snap a chalk line along the roof sheathing on either side of the
ridge; the manufacturer's instructions will tell you how far from
the peak the line should be. Set your circular saw blade to a
depth slightly thicker than the sheathing, then cut away the
sheathing along the line. Remove the cut pieces of sheathing and
any nails that remain.
Install the ridge vent over the peak (Fig. 9). You can start the
vent at the end of the roof or the beginning of the slot, whichever
the manufacturer recommends. Different ridge vent systems use
different methods of making the vent weathertight; follow the
manufacturer's instructions.
Intake Vents Exhaust Vents
Steel Tape Measure Level
Utility Knife Hammer
Screwdriver Circular Saw
Saber Saw Plastic Roof Cement
Putty Knife Chalk Line
Pencil Nails
Screws Eye Protection
Ladder
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions on how to insulate your home. Take a few minutes to read them
thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you time and effort.
In this document you will find information about:
How Insulating Your Home Saves Money

Types of Insulation
How Much Insulation You Will Need
Spreading Loose-fill Insulating Materials
Applying Insulation in Blanket Form
Insulating Walls
HOW INSULATING YOUR HOME SAVES MONEY
Heating and cooling your home accounts for about 50 percent to

70 percent of the energy used in your home. Unless your home
was built as an energy-efficient home, adding insulation will
probably reduce your utility bills. Even a small amount of
insulationif properly installedcan reduce energy costs
dramatically.
You should insulate all areas of your home. Insulation priorities

include your attic, including the attic access door, under floors
above unheated basements or crawl spHCIs, and on the edges of
concrete slabs. Your options for insulating existing walls are
somewhat limited. However, if you are remodeling or residing
your home, use the amounts of insulation recommended for new
construction. Figure 1 shows you where to insulate and also
FIG. 1 - R-values change by location and by heat contains the range of recommended R-values for each of those
sources. They also change between new and areas in your house. The R-value changes because of the type of
existing homes. These are only ranges. find the heat you use and where you live. It also changes between new
specific recommended R-value for your home. and existing homes. To find the recommended R-value for the
area of the country you live in, contact your local electric
company or gas company. You can also find the recommended
R-value by zip code and heat source at the Department of Energy
Web site, www.eren.doe.gov.
It's interesting to note that the greatest energy savings come from
the first inch of insulation installed. You can add more insulation
to increase your savings, but a small amount of insulation is
almost a must for your home to be comfortable. Keep in mind
that for insulation to work properly the air spHCIs in the
insulation must be maintained. Packing too much insulation into
an area will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation.
Savings from wall insulation are almost equal to those you'll get
from ceiling insulation.
You can further increase your energy savings, up to 10 percent,

by plugging any air leaks prior to insulating. Obvious air leaks
can be found around doors, windows, fireplHCIs and chimneys.
Some not-so-obvious air leaks can be found around electrical
switches and outlets, pull-down attic stairs, pipes, and behind
bathtub and shower stall units. These leaks are often much
greater than the obvious ones. However, taking care of these
leaks alone cannot do the jobyou must also have insulation.
TYPES OF INSULATION MATERIAL AVAILABLE
Most insulating materials are available in several common

formsloose-fill or spray-applied materials, blanket rolls, batts,
boards and foil-fHCId paper, foam, film and cardboard. Each
form is ideal for specific insulating jobs.
The type of insulation material you select for any job depends on
how you intend to use it, how much you want to spend, and how
easy it is to install.
Figure 2 provides a summary of the qualities and suggested uses

for the basic types of insulation.
Study Figure 2 carefully. Consider the advantages, disadvantages
and instructions for using each type of material as outlined in the
chart. This table should help you select the correct material for
any insulation job.
Blanket and batt insulation is usually made from fiber glass or

rock wool. It is sized to fit between studs, floor joists and ceiling
joists. It comes both fHCId and unfHCId. FHCId means the batt
or blanket has a cover such as paper or foil on one side.
UnfHCId means there is no cover. Some batts and blankets now
come with a protective covering that reduces the "itchy feeling"
you get when you work with insulation.
Rigid foam insulation is widely used on basement walls and on

exterior walls. If rigid foam is used inside, it must be covered
with gypsum board or other building code-approved material for
fire safety reasons. When it is applied on the outside, it must be
covered with a weatherproof facing. When using a foil-covered
rigid foam, the foil must be away from the heated side of the
wall to avoid a condensation problem.
FIG. 2
TYPES OF INSULATION
Form Method of Installation Where Applicable Advantages

Blankets: Batts or Rolls Fitted between studs, All unfinished walls, Do-it-yourself
Fiber glass Rock wool joists and beams floors and ceilings Suited for standard stud
and joist spacing, which
is relatively free from
obstructions
Loose-fill (blown-in) or Blown into plHCI or Enclosed existing wall Commonly used
Spray-applied spray applied by special cavities or open new wall insulation for retrofits
Rock wool equipment cavities (adding insulation to
Fiberglass Unfinished attic floors existing finished areas)
Cellulose and hard-to-reach plHCIs Good for irregularly
Polyurethane foam shaped areas and around
obstructions
Rigid Insulation Interior applications: Basement walls High insulation value for
Extruded polystyrene Must be covered with Exterior walls under relatively little thickness
foam (XPS) 1/2"gypsum board or finishing (Some foam Can block thermal short
Expanded polystyrene other building-code boards include a foil circuits when installed
foam (EPS or beadboard) approved material for facing which will act as a continuously over frames
Polyurethane foam fire safety vapor retarder. Please or joists
Polyisocyanurate foam Exterior applications: read the discussion about
Must be covered with where to plHCI, or not to
weather-proof facing plHCI, a vapor retarder)
Unvented low slope roofs
Reflective Systems Foils, films or papers: Unfinished ceilings, Do-it-yourself

Foil-fHCId paper Fitted between wood- walls, and floors All suitable for framing
Foil-fHCId polyethylene frame studs, joists and at standard spacing.
bubbles beams Bubble-form suitable if
Foil-fHCId plastic film framing is irregular or if
Foil-fHCId cardboard obstructions are presentt;
effectiveness depends on
spacing and heat flow
direction
HOW MUCH INSULATION YOU WILL NEED
On a new home, find out what the recommended R-value is for

the type of heat you are planning to use for the location of your
new home. Again, local electric and gas companies can provide
this information to you or you can contact the Department of
Energy.
On an existing home it is a little more complicated, but not hard.

First, you need to identify what type of insulation is currently in
your home. It may differ by the various locations in your home.
In your attic for example, you may find batt or blanket fiber glass
over the top of loose-fill cellulose. You may also find multiple
layers of batt or blanket insulation. Next, you need to measure
the thickness of each of these different types of insulation at the
different locations. To help you with this process, take a regular
sheet of notebook paper and make four columns. Label the first
column "Location," the second column "Type Of Insulation," the
third column "Inches Thick" and the fourth column "R-value per
Inch."
Figure 3 shows you the approximate R-value each inch of the

various types of insulating materials provides. Use this chart to
fill in the last column of your worksheet. One inch of fiber glass
batts or blankets, for example, provides an approximate R-value
of 3.2. To find the R-value of 4" of fiberglass, multiply 4 x 3.2 to
get an R-value of 12.8. Repeat this process of multiplying the
number of inches thick and the R-value per inch of insulation for
each area in your home. If you have two different types of
insulation together, like our earlier example, find the R-value for
each and then add them together.
FIG. 3
R-VALUE
R-Value per
Insulation Type inch
of thickness
Fiber glass blanket or batt 3.2
High-performance fiber glass

3.8
blanket or batt
Loose-fill fiber glass 2.5
Loose-fill rock wool 2.8
Loose-fill cellulose 3.5
Perlite or vermiculite 2.7
Expanded polystyrene board 3.8
Extruded polystyrene board 4.8
Polyisocyanurate board,
5.8
unfHCId
Polyisocyanurate board, foil-

7.0
fHCId
Spray polyurethane foam 5.9

Let's use an example where we have 6" of cellulose covered by
6" of fiber glass batts in the attic. We take the R-value of
cellulose, which is 3.5 and multiply it by 6 to get 21.0. We then
take the R-value of fiberglass batts, which is 3.2 and multiply
that by 6 to get 19.2. Since the insulation is layered one on top of
the other, we add them together 21.0 + 19.2 to get 40.2.
If we live in a region where the recommended R-value is 38, we

already have 40.2, so we do not need to add insulation. What
happens though, if we live in a region that recommends 49we
need to add some insulation, but how much? That's easy too!
Take the recommended R-value, which is 49, and subtract what
we have already, which is 40.2 (49 - 40.2 to get 8.8). We need to
add an R-value of 8.8. The R-value of an inch of fiber glass batts
is 3.2. Divide the amount we need to add, 8.8, by the R-value per
inch, 3.2, to get 2.75. Batt and blanket insulation comes in
several thicknesses. One of these is 3-1/2". So one layer of 3-
1/2" fiber glass batt insulation added to what we have will give
us a little more than what we need. It is always ok to add more
insulation than is recommended. Just remember not to pack it too
tightly because packing it can reduce its effectiveness.
SPREADING LOOSE-FILL INSULATING MATERIALS
Loose-fill insulating materials of rock wool, fiber glass or

cellulose are commonly used for insulating attics. Vermiculite is
not currently used for homes, but it may be found in older
homes. It is best to install these materials with a plywood rake
attached to a rake handle, making spreading much easier.
To make this type of rake, cut a scrap piece of plywood to the

FIG. 4 - Loose-fill insulation material is spread length of the spHCI between the joists plus 4" (Fig. 5). The extra
easily with a plywood rake cut to the correct size 4" allows for an overhang on the joists.
and depth.
Next decide how deep you plan to install the loose-fill material.
For example, suppose you are planning to lay the loose-fill
material to a depth of 3" between the attic joists (Fig. 4).
Measure the depth in the spHCI you plan to fill then saw the
plywood rake as illustrated in Fig. 5. The rake should ride on the
joist on either side and level the material off evenly to a depth of
3". Attach a handle, making a handy tool that will save you hours
of backbreaking labor and enable you to rake the material easily
and evenly into otherwise unreachable corners (Fig. 5).
FIG. 5 - Cut a piece of plywood and make a rake

for applying any type of loose-fill materials
APPLYING INSULATION IN BLANKET FORM
Always apply blanket-type insulation with the vapor barrier

facing the interior of your home. The vapor barrier should
always be toward the source of heat in the winter (Fig. 6). Never
plHCI a vapor barrier between two layers of insulation. This can
lead to a condensation problem and reduce the effectiveness of
the insulation. Lay the blanket as close to the joists and floor as
FIG. 6 - When using blanket insulation, always
possible. Fill any gaps with loose-fill insulation or plHCI another
plHCI the vapor barrier toward the heat source layer of blanket insulation across the previous layer.
and insulation outside of any pipes.
Always plHCI insulation on the outside of pipes or ducts (Fig.
6). This means the insulation should be between the outside wall
and the pipes.
When using blanket insulation, always plHCI the vapor barrier

toward the heat source and insulation outside of any pipes.
Staple blanket insulation when laid between joists in the attic

(Fig. 7). Most rolls of blanket insulation materials have flanges
that can be stapled or tacked to the ceiling joists, as illustrated.
Always keep the blanket as close to the joists and floor area as
FIG. 7 - Staple blanket insulation from below. possiblefill any gaps with strips of insulation or loose-fill
insulation.
Never allow blanket-type insulation to cut off the flow of air and
stop proper ventilation in an attic (Fig. 8). Blanket insulation
should never block the air movement from the eave vents into
the attic.
Proper ventilation in the attic is very important in any insulation
job. Make provision for air to flow in and around the eave vents
and to flow out through a ridge vent roof ventilator or through a
ventilator on the end of the house (Fig 9).
Blanket insulation without a vapor barrier can be wedged

between existing ceiling joists (Fig. 10). Make sure the insulation
comes to the top of the plate to avoid heat loss from the
FIG. 8 - Always allow for adequate air circulation penetration of wind under the insulation. Failure to pay close
in the attic, especially around vents. attention to this detail can lead to a frost line forming on cold,
windy days. It will form on the inside wall where the ceiling and
walls come together.
There are special formed inserts made of foam or plastic

designed to go up next to the roof between the rafters. They help
with both the airflow and the frost line. Many of them are
designed to be installed during new construction. But they can be
installed in an existing roof with very little extra effort.
In some cases, it may be easier to apply the blanket between the

rafters on the roof (Fig. 11). In this case, staple the blanket
insulation directly to the rafters.
FIG. 9 - Allow air to flow in and around the eave
vents and out through a roof, ridge or gable vents. Repair any major tears or rips in the vapor barrier and insulation
by adding additional vapor barrier and insulation to build up to
the level on the normal insulation run.
Whether you apply the insulation to the attic roof or the floor,
always double it back at the end for maximum efficiency (Fig.
12). Illustration A shows how the blanket of insulation material
can be rolled at the end between the attic joists. Illustration B
shows how the same material can be doubled back between the
rafters of the roof.
FIG. 10 - Blanket insulation without a vapor

barrier can be wedged between ceiling joists.
FIG. 11 - In some cases, you may want to apply
the insulation between the rafters.
FIG. 12 - Always double back the roll of

insulation at the end for maximum efficiency.
INSULATING WALLS
If possible, lay blanket-type insulating material between the

studs in the wall. If you're using insulation blankets without a
vapor barrier, they should be forced into the area between the
studs. Then, plHCI a polyethylene vapor barrier on the inside
fHCI of the wall. Staple the vapor barrier into plHCI.
When building a new structure, insulate the full wall, including

around the openings for doors and windows.
FIG. 13 - Use scraps of insulation material to
insulate around openings. Use drywall with a foil back as a vapor barrier instead of
polyethylene if it is more practical.
Blanket insulation material with a vapor barrier attached can be

stapled into position.
When the blanket has a vapor barrier, take the time to staple or
tack all sides, bottoms and tops. This increases the efficiency of
the insulation.
Use scraps of insulation material to insulate all the cracks and

crevices around doors and windows (Fig. 13). Then use scraps of
vapor barrier to seal these areas. Staple the barrier in plHCI.
Insulation Materials (Proper Type) Heavy-Duty Shears
Staples Tacks
Furring Strips Hand Cleaner
Weatherstripping Sharp Knife
Stapler Hammer
Handsaw Vapor Barrier
FHCI Mask (if handling specific types of

insulation materials)
in this document.

Whether you're replacing a few damaged shingles or starting a complete reroofing job, the following
step-by-step instructions can make your project easier. Take a few minutes to read the instructions
carefully before starting and you can save time, money and effort while completing a better job.
IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER
Working on any roof can be dangerous. You should take every

safety precaution possible and always use extreme care while
working on the roof.
Use common sense while working on the roof. Let someone

know you are up there or better yet, work with a helper.
Use a ladder that is high enough and strong enough for the job
you are doing. Secure the ladder at the top and bottom before
climbing it.
Use extreme caution when working near power lines, conduits or

TV antennas. Never touch them or allow a metal ladder to come
in contact with them.
Never start a roofing job in cold or wet weather. Also, allow

early morning dew to disappear before beginning your work.
Wear heavy, rubber-soled shoes with a non-skid tread to prevent

slips and avoid wearing loose clothing.
If the roof slopes more than a 6" rise for every 12" horizontally,
use roof brackets and boards to provide extra footing support.
PlHCI all tools and shingles within easy reach and where they
will not slide off the roof.
Keep the roof surfHCI clean and free from loose nails and
shingles. These can cause you to slip and fall.
Keep people away from below the area where you will be
working.
DETERMINE THE MATERIALS NEEDED
Roofing shingles are sold in "squares." Most asphalt shingles are

baled together with three or four bundles per square.
First, measure the length and width of each area of the roof. For
each area of the roof, multiply the length times the width. Then
add the results for the total square feet of shingles needed.
Measure all dormers and extensions.
Divide the total square footage by 100 and purchase that many
squares of shingles.
Purchase an additional 10 percent of the number of shingles for

cutting, waste and starter courses and to save one bundle for
future repairs.
You'll also need about 2-1/2 lbs. of roofing nails for each square
of shingles. Use hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails, either 11-
or 12-gauge with a 3/8" diameter head, or follow the shingle
manufacturer's recommendation for the type of nails to be used.
Use 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" nails for new roofs, or 1-3/4" nails for
reroofing or repairs.
If you are starting a new roofing job, or a complete reroofing

project, you'll also need enough 15-lb. roofing felt to cover the
entire roof area underneath the shingles.
You'll need roofing cement for edges, flashings and ridges.

SELECT THE SHINGLES
There are many types, styles and sizes of asphalt shingles.
Your selection process should begin with the type and grade of
asphalt shingle needed for the type of building. Some factors to
consider are the purpose of the building, the slope of the roof,
local weather conditions and the design, style and size of the
structure.
The exposure for each type of shingle is usually specified by the

manufacturer. However, for most common shingles, a 5"
exposure is standard.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
You can successfully lay asphalt shingles over any existing roof.
However, if there are more than three layers of old roofing on the
structure, they must be removed completely before applying new
shingles.
Make any necessary repairs to the roof structure before

beginning the reroofing project.
Drive down or remove any loose or protruding nails.
For reroofing jobs, renail any loose shingles and replHCI any
missing shingles with new ones. (See the upcoming repair
section).
If you're applying new shingles over old wooden shingles, nail

them securely and use feathering strips for a smooth appearance.
HOW TO REPLHCI DAMAGED SHINGLES
Making repairs to an existing asphalt shingle roof is easy when

you follow these step-by-step instructions.
Use a small pry bar to pull out the nails holding the damaged
shingle. Remove both the nails and the shingle.
If you cannot reach the nails, use a sharp linoleum knife to cut
away the damaged shingle.
Always try to replHCI the damaged shingle with one similar in

weight, size and color.
Apply asphalt roofing cement to the back of the replHCIment

shingle before putting it into plHCI.
After positioning the new shingle, nail it down with 1-3/4"

roofing nails.
Position the roofing nails so they are covered by the shingle

above. For extra protection against leaks, apply a small amount
of roofing cement to the nail heads.
LAYING SHINGLES IN ROOF VALLEYS
A roof valley is formed where two roofs join at an angle. You

must be careful when shingling in this area an improperly laid
roof valley can easily develop leaks.
Valleys should be covered with a mineral-surfHCId, roll roofing

material (Fig. 1).
First, plHCI an 18"-wide strip or metal flashing down the center

of the valley, from the eaves to the top of the ridge.
Nail this material down on the outer edges only, making sure that
it stays flat in the valley.
FIG. 1 - Use caution when laying shingles in the PlHCI roofing cement along each edge.
roof valley. Prepare the area properly to prevent
leaks. Next, lay a 36"-wide strip of the roofing material down on top of
the previous strip, and nail its outer edges.
Snap two chalk lines down the edge of the valley. Start at the
ridge, with the lines centered in the valley and 6" apart. As you
move down the roof, spread the lines apart, about 1/8" per foot,
down to the eaves.
Now you're ready to apply shingles. Lay them down to the edge
of the chalk lines, and cut them to fit (Fig. 2).
PlHCI the end of each shingle in roofing cement to seal it before

nailing it into position.
FIG. 2 - Lay shingles to the edge of the chalk
lines. Do not nail shingles closer than 6" to the chalk lines.
APPLYING NEW ASPHALT SHINGLES
Applying new asphalt shingles on a complete roofing job or on

new construction requires a layer of 15-lb. roofing felt over 5/8"
plywood sheathing.
Each course of the roofing felt should overlap the preceding

course by at least 2" to provide adequate weatherproofing
protection.
Staple the felt underlayment into position, starting at the edge of

the eaves and extending up to the roof ridge.
STARTING THE SHINGLES
First, locate the exact center of the roof and mark it with a chalk
line.
Next, install a starter strip along the bottom edge of the roof.
Many manufacturers offer a special starter strip; however, if you
FIG. 3 - Use a chalk line to mark the exact center
don't have this strip, you can cut the tabs off the shingles and use
before starting the asphalt shingles.
the shingles to form a starter strip. (Fig. 3).
The starter strip should project out over the eaves and the gable
end by about 5/8".
After the starter strip is in plHCI, again locate the exact center of
the roof and mark it with a chalk line.
FIG. 4 - The first shingle is plHCId at the exact Center your first shingle on the chalk linedirectly on top of the
center, directly on top of the starter strip. starter stripand nail it into position (Fig. 4).
Use four nails in each shingle, located in the position shown in

Fig. 5. Always drive the nails straight in and never at an angle, as
they could cut the shingle and cause leaks.
PlHCI the nails about 5-5/8" up from the bottom of the shingle.
Each succeeding shingle should bump up against the center

FIG. 5 - Drive the nails straight in. shingle. Continue applying the shingles to the end of the roof in
each direction (Fig. 6).
FIG. 6 - Continue applying the shingles to the

end of the roof in both directions.
INSTALLING ADDITIONAL COURSES OF SHINGLES
After the first course of shingles has been laid on top of the
starter strip, snap down a chalk line at the manufacturer's
specified exposure, usually 5", to aid in applying shingles.
Continue snapping down chalk lines until you reach the ridge of
the roof. This simplifies the job of laying each succeeding course
of shingles in a straight line.
Start the second course of shingles on top of the first course.

PlHCI the cut-out over the center of the middle tab on the center
shingle.
Remember, a shingle cut-out must never fall directly over

another cut-out in the row immediately below it.
Continue placing shingles in the second course to the end of the

roof in each direction.
Start at the center of the roof for the third course of shingles.
Again, plHCI the cut-out over the center tab on the preceding
row, and continue to the end of the roof.
Follow this procedure until you reach the ridge of the roof. Then
start on the other side of the roof in the same way you started the
first side.
SHINGLING VENT PIPES
The easiest way to finish around vent pipes is to purchase a vent

pipe boot that slides down over the vent pipe. It consists of a
rubber gasket and metal flashing. If you do not have a vent pipe
boot, follow these directions.
PlHCI mineral-surfHCId roofing material or metal flashing

FIG. 7 - The flashing must extend at least 6" around the vent pipe before laying any shingles.
around the edge of the vent pipe. Use asphalt
Cut a square of flashing material with at least 6" of edge around
cement to seal the edges.
the vent pipe (Fig. 7).
Cut a hole in the center of the flashing that's large enough to fit
over the vent pipe. Coat the bottom side with roofing cement,
slip it over the vent pipe and nail it into position.
Lay shingles up to the vent pipe, completely covering the edge of

the flashing material. Set the ends of the shingles in roofing
cement.
Cut a hole in the shingle that goes over the vent pipe, apply
FIG. 8 - Cut a hole in the shingle that goes over
roofing cement to the bottom and nail it into position (Fig. 8).
the vent pipe.
Repeat the procedure on the next course of shingles if they, too,

overlap the vent pipe.
SHINGLING AROUND CHIMNEYS
PlHCI mineral-surfHCId roofing material or aluminum flashing

around the edge of a chimney before shingles are positioned.
On older roofs, you can use the old flashings for a pattern. On
FIG. 9 - Fit the flashing around the chimney new roofs, use Fig. 9 as a guide for cutting the flashing.
base, then cement and nail it into position.
Fit the new flashing around the base of the chimney, then cement
and nail it into plHCI.
Cut flashing strips into pieces measuring 7" x 10", then bend
them in half to 7" x 5".
PlHCI these flashing strips against the chimney, seal the edge
with roofing cement and nail into plHCI.
Apply shingles up to the edge of the chimney, seal the edge with
roofing cement and nail the shingles near the edge of the
flashings (Fig. 10).
FIG. 10 - Apply shingles to the chimney edge.
Then seal and nail into plHCI.
SHINGLING HIP ROOFS
Each course of shingles applied to the hip roof should be

continued around the roof (Fig. 11).
Trim each shingle to the angle of the hip ridge.
FIG. 11 - Always start at the eaves when Use regular hip shingles or cut standard shingles (three-cut)to
applying hip shingles. Each course should be cover the hip ridge.
continued around the roof.
Cover the hip ridge before the main roof ridge (Fig. 12).
Start at the eave and apply hip shingles at the same exposure as
the main roof.
Use two shingles to start the run on the hip ridge (Fig. 13).
Use four nails per shingle and leave no nails exposed.

FIG. 12 - Apply hip ridge shingles before
When placing the last hip shingle on the main ridge, seal it with
applying the main roof ridge shingles.
roofing cement and nail it into position.
FIG. 13 - Use two shingles to start the run on the
hip ridge.
Shingles Hammer
Carpenter's Apron #15 Felt Roofing
Ridge Shingles Asphalt Roofing Cement
Copper or Aluminum Flashing Material Soft Soled Shoes
Level Clean-up Cloth
Roofing Nails Chalk Line
#90 Mineral SurfHCI Roofing Tin Snips
Ladder Work Gloves
Safety Rope Hand Cleaner
in this document.

Take the time to read these tips and instructions on how to put up gutters and downspouts. Following
these suggestions can save you both time and effort. In this document you will find information about:
Component Parts of Gutters and Downspouts
Installing Gutters and Downspouts
COMPONENT PARTS OF GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS
FIG. 1 - Gutters and downspouts are constructed Gutters and downspouts are constructed of many separate parts
of many separate parts and pieces. and pieces. Fig. 1 illustrates the basic parts used in a typical
installation. Metal guttering pieces are usually fastened together
with sheet metal screws or pop rivets.
The basic gutter pieces are commonly offered in standard 10'

lengths and are usually made of aluminum, plastic or galvanized
metal. These are the basic gutter materials used for most gutter
and downspout installations.
Spikes and ferrules hold the gutter to the wall of the house. The
ferrule is inserted inside the gutter and the spike is driven
through the rim of the gutter and through the ferrule to hold the
FIG. 2 - Each of the parts shown serves a gutter in plHCI.
specific purpose in your gutter project.
The slip connector is used to connect two pieces of guttering in
the run. The connecting joint is sealed with mastic or caulk to
prevent leakage. Some brands of downspouts and gutters slip
snugly together and need no mastic or caulk.
The strap hanger is attached under the shingles or other roofing

material and then to the outside edge of the gutter, providing
support for the run.
The end piece is available with an outlet for the downspout or for
simply ending a gutter run.
The end cap ends the run of guttering and is available for left- or
right-hand use. Some styles must be sealed with either caulk or
mastic.
The downspout takes the water out of the gutter and down to the
drainage pipe or splash block on the ground. It is attached to the
FIG. 3
gutter at the outlet in the end piece.
The conductor pipe band, or clincher, is a strap used to hold the

downspout in plHCI. It is nailed or screwed to the outside wall to
hold the downspout securely wherever necessary. This piece is
available in various styles and types.
Ball strainers can be inserted in the end piece to prevent leaves

and other bulky material from clogging the downspout or
drainage pipes. Several other types of gutter covers are available
as well (Fig. 2). While not absolutely necessary, strainers and
gutter covers can be helpful.
In some cases, strap hangers are the wraparound type. The style
of strap hanger you use is more a matter of choice or
manufacturer's design than of function. The strap hangers shown
in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 both serve the same purposeto hold the gutter
in plHCI.
An inside miter is used when it becomes necessary to make an

inside turn in a gutter.
You can make outside turns in the guttering system by inserting

an outside miter as illustrated in Fig. 2. Use mastic or caulk for
sealing the joint where either inside or outside miters are jointed
to the gutter.
Some downspouts and elbows are round instead of square.
It sometimes becomes necessary to make turns in downspouts.

When a turn is required to pull the downspout toward or away
from the house, use square elbows (A, Fig. 3). Two of these
elbows used together, as illustrated, make an offset of several
inches in the downspout. The crimp in downspouts and elbows
usually makes mastic or caulk unnecessary at the joints.
To make a turn in the downspout either to the left or right, use

the square elbows shown in B, Fig. 3. Two of these elbows
mounted together divert the direction of the downspout to the left
or right by several inches.
A square shoe is used at the bottom of the downspout. This turns

the flow of water onto a splash block where the downspout ends.
INSTALLING GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS
The most commonly used gutters and downspouts are made of

galvanized metal, aluminum or plastic. Various component parts
described in step 1 are required to complete the job.
Strips of guttering usually come in 10' lengths. First, measure the

area where the guttering is to be installed and determine exactly
how many feet of guttering and how many of the basic
component parts you need.
FIG. 4
PIECE NEEDED DESCRIPTION AMOUNT

NEEDED
GUTTER
comes in 10' length
SLIP JOINT
CONNECTOR
used to connect joints of
gutter
END CAPS WITH
OUTLET
used where downspout
connects
END PIECE
WITHOUT OUTLET
used where downspout
connects
OUTSIDE MITRE
used for outside turn in
gutter
INSIDE MITRE
used for inside turn in
gutter
FASCIA BRACKET
used to hold gutter to
fascia on wall
STRAP HANGER
connects to eave of roof
to hold gutter
STRAINER CAP
connects to eave of roof
to hold gutter
DOWNSPOUT
comes in 10' lengths
ELBOW STYLE A
for diverting downspout
in or out from wall
ELBOW STYLE B
for diverting downspout
to left or right
CONNECTOR PIPE
OR CLINCHER
used to hold downspout
securely to wall
SHOE
used to throw water to
splasher block
CAULK OR MASTIC
used to seal gutters at
joints
SPIKE & FERRULE

used to hold gutter to
eave of roof
Fig. 4 provides a checklist for determining the materials you'll

need for the job. Measure the house carefully, then note on the
checklist exactly how many of the various parts you need for
your gutter and downspout installation.
Write these figures in the column to the extreme right. Bring this
checklist to your local retailer for help with the materials and
estimates.
Once you've purchased the materials, lay out the pieces of gutter
and fittings on the ground below where they are to be installed.
Align them to correspond to the way they will fit when
assembled under the eave of the roof.
Use a long level to get the correct slope for each run of gutter
(Fig. 5). Use a slope of about 1" for each 16' of gutter for proper
drainagegood drainage is important.
One easy way to accurately set the slope for proper drainage is to
allow for a fall of 1-1/4" for each two 10' lengths of guttering
material.
Calculate the slope by marking the nailing position on the fascia

of the house before attaching the gutter. Then check the fall with
a level for accuracy.
Fig. 6 illustrates a simple way to calculate the correct rate of fall

in a run of gutter.
Locate the center of each gutter span. Mark this center location
on the fascia of the house (Fig. 6).
Snap a chalk line from the center position as marked to the end
of the run in each direction (Fig. 6). Allow for 1" of fall each
way. For most homes, this fall of 1" in each direction from the
center provides adequate drainage. If the run is extremely long,
allow 1" fall for each 16' of gutter.
Start the installation by attaching the gutter at the end or corner

of the house. If this is the end of the gutter run, attach the left- or
right-hand end cap to the end of the gutter. If sealing is required,
seal the end cap into plHCI before hanging.
FIG. 5 - Allow about 1" of slope for each 16' of If you start at a corner, attach the inside or outside miter to the
gutter length. first length of gutter before hanging.
Study the details of Fig. 7. This illustration shows how to attach

a gutter to the fascia.
If you are installing gutters on a new house, mount the molding

as illustrated. If you are replacing existing gutter and
downspouts, you may need to remove the lower molding before
putting the gutter in plHCI. The original molding can be
remounted or new molding can be installed after the gutter is put
FIG. 6 - Measure from the center of the run and in plHCI.
allow a 1" drop in each direction.
Attach the gutter to the fascia by using spikes and ferrules, strap
hangers and fascia brackets as illustrated and described in Fig. 4.
Insert an end piece with an outlet at any point where a

downspout is required. Downspouts are usually located at the
end of a building or in a corner.
For extremely long runs, downspouts may be located in the

center of a gutter run.
If spikes and ferrules are used, spHCI them about every 2-1/2' in
the gutter run. Use the same spacing to attach the gutter with
plain or wraparound strap hangers.
Locate strap hangers directly over roof rafters wherever possible

FIG. 7 - Use this as a guide for attaching gutters
for a stronger support.
to the fascia of the house.
Always insert the strap hanger under the roofing material and
attach it securely to the roofing deck (Fig. 7).
After the first length of gutter is in plHCI, continue assembling

the component parts with slip connectors at each joint and inside
or outside mitres as required.
Insert two style A elbows to bring the downspouts from the

outlet on the gutter back flush with the wall (Fig. 8).
You can insert a strainer in each downspout opening to prevent

clogging from leaves, limbs and other objects falling from
nearby trees. These objects can get into your underground
drainage system and cause a great deal of trouble.
Use connector pipe bands, sometimes called clincher bands, to

connect the downspouts to the wall as required. There are several
styles of these holding devices.
If the downspout does not run into an underground tile system,

plHCI a shoe at the bottom of each downspout to throw the water
out onto a splash block.
Often, caulk or mastic is necessary to seal the connecting joints

of guttering.
FIG. 8 - Insert two style A elbows to bring the
downspout flush with the wall.
Basic Gutter & Downspout Parts Nails (Various Sizes)
Ladder Mastic or Caulk
Star Drill Hand Cleaner
Soldering Iron or Gun Screwdriver
Hammer Tin Snips
Screws or Pop Rivets Level
Chalk Line Marking Pencil
Masonry Fasteners Masonry Drill

in this document.

Following are tips and suggestions on how to repair and maintain downspouts and gutters. These ideas
can save you a lot of trouble and expense and help you lengthen the life of your gutters and
downspouts. Inside this document you will find information about:
Why You Should Maintain Downspouts and Gutters

Adjusting the Pitch of Gutters
Stopping Clogs in Gutters and Downspouts
Patching Leaks in Gutters
Maintaining Downspouts
WHY YOU SHOULD MAINTAIN DOWNSPOUTS AND

GUTTERS
FIG. 1 - Debris in gutters causes clogging and
rust. Taking the time to maintain and repair downspouts and gutters
can double or even triple the life of your roof drainage system.
This can save you a lot of money on repair costs.
Inspect your downspouts and gutters about twice a year.

Carefully examine them in the spring just before the spring rains.
Inspect them again in the fall when leaves, limbs and other
debris might cause problems.
Improper drainage due to poor roof pitch is one of the biggest

causes of roof drainage problems. Improper drainage causes
water to accumulate in certain spots in the gutters, ultimately
building up debris and accelerating rust.
Clogged gutters and downspouts can also be a big problem.

Thoroughly clean all debris from the gutters and downspouts at
least twice a year (Fig. 1). If there are a number of trees near
your home, clean the gutters with a whisk broom even more
often than twice a year.
Rust can be a big problem. Keep the gutters properly cleaned and
the pitch set correctly to slow down the rusting process.
ADJUSTING THE PITCH OF GUTTERS
The gutters on your home should be installed so there is a drop

of approximately 1/16" for each 1' of length of guttering.
FIG. 2 - Spans of gutters that reach 35' or more

You can use a chalk line and a level to take a reading and mark
should slop in both directions. the slope of your gutters. Another way is to pour a bucket of
water into the gutter and observe the flow. If it runs off without
leaving pools of water in the gutter, the gutter is set properly. If
there are low spots, the water will sit in the gutter and locate the
trouble spots.
Ordinarily, the pitch of a gutter can be set in only one direction.

However, gutter runs of more than 35' should slant in each
direction from the center (Fig. 2). Again, the drop should be set
at a rate of 1/16" of fall for each 1' of gutter.
FIG. 3 - Improper pitch can sometimes be High or low spots detected in the gutter run can often be
corrected by bending the hanger that supports corrected by bending the hanger than supports the gutter (Fig. 3).
the gutter. A slight bend up or down can often remove the low or high spot.
Some gutters are installed with spikes and sleeves, sometimes

called spikes and ferrules (Fig. 4). You may need to add an
additional spike or sleeve to raise or lower the fall of the gutter at
any specific point.
When extra spikes or sleeves are added, use a power drill to

make a hole through the gutter before inserting the spike and
sleeve.
FIG. 4 - Remove low spots by adding spikes
and sleeves. Gutters are usually held in plHCI with either spikes and sleeves
or hangers.
There are two basic types of gutter hangers. One is the strap
hanger (Fig. 5). This type of hanger supports the gutter with a
wraparound strap underneath the gutter. A long strap is then
affixed to the top and nailed to the sheathing under the edge of
the roof. The roofing material covers the strap, making it totally
inconspicuous.
The bracket hanger is nailed or screwed to the fascia underneath

the eave of the roof (Fig. 5). Either of these types of hangers can
FIG. 5
be added as needed to remove high and low spots in a run of
gutter. Add brHCIs that matchthose already in use.
STOPPING CLOGS IN GUTTERS AND DOWNSPOUTS
Clogging usually occurs in a drainage system at the elbow where

the downspout connects to the gutter (Fig. 6). Since this elbow is
relatively easy to remove, it is a good idea to remove it and
inspect for clogging.
If the clogging is not in the elbow, check farther down the

downspout.
FIG. 6 - Drains often clog at the elbow.
You can usually check the downspout from the bottom.
However, if the downspout is inserted in an underground tiling
system, you may need to use a plumber's or electrician's snake to
clean the downspout (Fig. 7). This type of metal snake can be
used to penetrate the downspout for a great distance, removing
any obstacles causing clogging and backup problems.
If your roof drainage system is exposed to falling leaves and

debris, you should install leaf strainers in all downspout outlets
(Fig. 8). These strainers insert into the downspout outlet. They
permit the free passage of water but stop any leaves or other
FIG. 7 - You can use a plumber's or
electrician's snake to clean downspouts.
objects that can cause problems in downspout drainage.
Leaf strainers are easy to install and are relatively inexpensive.
You can solve most drainage problems by installing leaf guards

over your entire gutter system (Fig. 9). There are various types of
leaf guards available.
Leaf guards of metal, plastic, etc., are usually mounted in the
same way. Lift the lower run of shingles and insert the leaf guard
underneath. Some leaf guards clamp over the edge of the gutter.
The leaf guards hold the leaves and other falling debris on top of
the guard while allowing water to flow freely through the
drainage system. The leaves then dry on top of the guard and are
quickly blown away.
FIG. 8 - Install leaf strainers at downspout
outlets.
FIG. 9 - It's a good idea to install leaf guards

over all gutters.
PATCHING LEAKS IN GUTTERS
Any type of gutter will ultimately need some mending or

repairing. However, aluminum and plastic gutters and
downspouts last much longer than those made of galvanized steel.
When leaks occur, you may want to totally replHCI entire

FIG. 10 - Scrape off allrust on the gutter with a sections of the gutter rather than trying to mend them. However,
steel brush. small leaks and rust spots can easily be patched or mended.
The first step in repairing a rusted and leaky gutter is to scrape

off all the rust (Fig. 10). Use a steel brush or a 1/4" drill and a
power rotary brush.
Take time to remove as much of the rust as possible. Old rust left
underneath the mending job simply starts to work again.
Next, cover the area to be repaired with either a rust treatment or

rust-inhibiting paint. Allow it to dry thoroughly (Fig. 11).
For small holes, apply a 1/8" thick layer of plastic cement

specially made for gutter repairs or use ordinary roof cement
(Fig. 12).
FIG. 11 - Cover the area with a rust treatment For larger holes, follow this same procedure. While the cement is
or rust-inhibiting paint. still wet, cover the area with strips of heavy aluminum foil or
plastic (Fig. 13). Cut the patch material to fit exactly inside the
repaired area.
Press the patch down tightly into the gutter with a dry cloth.
Wear gloves during this part of the repair job.
When joining two pieces of patch material, overlap it in the

direction of the water flow and cement the edges together
securely. Be sure the overlap is in the direction of the water
flowotherwise, water may enter at the seam.
FIG. 12 - Coat the area with a heavy layer of
plastic cement.
FIG. 13 - Cover the area with heavy aluminum

foil or plastic before the cement dries.
MAINTAINING DOWNSPOUTS
Even the best gutter system cannot function properly unless all
downspouts are in working order. Take the time to examine your
downspout system at the same time you are mending and
repairing your gutters.
If the downspouts drain into an underground tile system, make a

careful check at the point where the downspout enters the
underground tiling (Fig. 14). Make sure it is cemented firmly
into plHCI and there is no backup or overflow.
FIG. 14 - Be sure all underground drains are
open. You can use a plumber's or electrician's snake to clean any
possible obstructions in the downspout system.
Most downspouts empty onto a splash block (Fig. 15). Be sure

these splash blocks are large enough and high enough to carry
the water away from the foundation of the house.
Check the splash blocks occasionally to make sure they are not
broken or deteriorating. Downspouts that pour water around the
foundation of the house can cause basement or crawl spHCI
FIG. 15 - Be sure splash blocks are under all water problems. Secure splash blocks remove much of this
downspouts and that they carry water away from danger.
the house.
You may need to add extra downspouts to carry water
completely away from the house (Fig. 16).
You can attach an extra length of downspout at the elbow to

continue it as far away from the house as necessary.
Special roll-up downspout sheets are available that extend

themselves when filled with water and roll up when the water is
emptied. These perform the same function as an extended
downspout, but they avoid the unsightliness of the downspout
FIG. 16 -You may need to add extra extended into the yard.
downspouts.
Add downspout simply by crimping the end of the material with
a pair of pliers (Fig. 17). The new piece of downspout will slip
easily into the original piece.
FIG. 17 - Downspouts can be crimped and
inserted over another piece of downspout.
Gutter Whisk Broom
Pliers Leaf Strainer
Leaf Guards Ladder
Power Drill Steel Brush for Power Drill
Plumber's or Electrician's Snake Plastic Cement
Splash Block Gutter & Downspout Accessories
Heavy Aluminum Foil Hacksaw
Downspout Gloves
Level Line Level
Steel Wool Steel Brush
Paintbrush
in this document.

Re-siding your home may seem like a daunting task, but vinyl siding is easy to work with and install.
This document covers general instructions for installing vinyl siding. Inside you will find:
Vinyl Siding
Estimating Vinyl Siding
Installing Vinyl Siding
FIG. 1 - Components of a vinyl siding system.
VINYL SIDING
Keep in mind that there may be variations in both the product

and the installation procedures from one manufacturer to
another. Wherever these instructions differ from the
manufacturer's, always follow the manufacturer's procedures.
Vinyl siding is made of PVC or polyvinyl chloride, similar to the

same vinyl used in windows and gutter materials. Its primary
advantage is that it needs very little maintenance.
Unlike wood sidings, vinyl siding is "pre-colored" during

manufacture, so it requires no painting. Unlike steel and
FIG. 2 aluminum siding, the color is solid throughout, so scratches
won't show.
Vinyl siding comes in horizontal panels that are embossed to

look like wood lap siding and in vertical panels. Various trim
pieces and accessories make installation simple:
Siding panels come in 12'-6" lengths, with a nailing flange along

the top and a J-shaped interlocking flange at the bottom. The
nailing flange has a lip so the bottom of each panel can be
hooked into the top of the panel below it (Fig. 1).
J-channel is used to trim out the ends of siding panels where they
meet a door or window and to cover cut edges of panels around
windows and under the eaves. It comes in 10' lengths (Fig. 1).
Undersill or utility trim forms a tight loop (as opposed to J-

channel, which is open). It is used wherever the nailing flange
has been cut off a panel, usually under windows and eaves. The
upper edge of the panel is dimpled with a special snaplock
punch, so the panel can be snapped into the utility trim (Fig. 1).
Inside and outside corner posts are used to cover the ends of the
panels at corners (Fig. 1).
Special tools you'll need are 1) a nail hole punch, for punching
slots in cut panels; 2) a snaplock punch, for dimpling panels
where they will be pressed into the utility trim and 3) an
unlocking tool, for separating panels (Fig. 2).
The only tricky aspect of installing vinyl siding is that PVC

expands and contracts more than other building materials. As a
result, there are five rules that you must follow:
1. When you nail panels or accessories, nail in the center of the

slot to allow the piece to move in both directions.
2. Never nail any piece tightly. Drive nails straight and leave
about 1/16" spHCI between the head of the nail and the panel.
You should be able to slide the panels or accessories back and
forth when nailed.
3. Never nail through the vinyl itself. In situations where the slot
has been removed and an undersill trim can't be used, use a
special nail hole punch to create a slot.
4. Leave 1/4" clearance at the ends of panels where they butt into
J-channels or corner posts and at the ends of corner posts where
they butt up against the eaves. Leave 3/8" if you're installing
when the temperature is below freezing.
5. Don't pull the siding panels up tight when you're installing

them. Once they are locked, they should be allowed to hang
loose.
ESTIMATING VINYL SIDING
To estimate the amount of siding and accessories you'll need to:
1. Measure the perimeter (P) in feet around your house, then

measure the height from the bottom of the siding to the eaves
(EH). Multiply the perimeter by the height to find the main
square footage (Fig. 3).
FIG. 3 - Find the sum of all horizontal P x EH = Main SF
dimensions to find the perimeter, then multiply by
the height to find the square footage. 2. Measure the height of each gable (GH) and the width of the
gable wall at the eaves (GW). Multiply the gable height by the
gable width and divide by two to find the square footage of each
gable (Fig. 3).
(GW x GH) divided by 2 = Gable SF for each gable
3. Add the main square footage to the total square footage of all
gables.
Main SF + (Sum of all Gable SF) = Gross SF
4. Measure the height (OH) and width (OW) of all major

openingsgarage doors, patio doors and large windows. Multiply
the height by the width to find the square footage of each, then
subtract from the gross square footage to find the net square
footage.
OH x OW = Opening SF for each opening
Gross SF (Sum of all Opening SF) = Net SF
5. Divide the net square footage by 100 to find the number of

squares of siding you'll need.
Net SF divided by 100 = # of squares
6. Count the number of outside corners and find the length of

each. Total the linear feet of outside corners and divide by 10 to
find the number of outside corners. Repeat the process for the
inside corners.
7. Divide the perimeter by the length of each starter strip to find

the number of lengths you'll need.
8. Measure the perimeter linear feet around all doors and

windows and the sloped length of all gables. Total the linear feet
and divide by the length of each J-channel to find the number of
lengths you'll need.
9. Measure the width of all windows and the length of all eaves.
Divide by the length of each utility trim to find the number of
lengths you'll need.
INSTALLING VINYL SIDING
First, tie back branches from shrubs, trees, etc., away from the
house so you'll have room to work. Remove anything that will
interfere with the siding installation, such as lighting fixtures,
downspouts, shutters, etc. Scrape old caulking out of the
junctions between the old siding and windows, doors, etc., so
vinyl accessories will fit better.
If the walls are uneven (for example, you are covering lap
FIG. 4 - Take extra care to make sure your siding), nail 1x3 furring strips 16" on center from the foundation
baseline is level, then install the starter strip.
to the eaves. Also nail furring strips around all doors and
Leave a 1/4" gap wherever the ends meet.
windows. Shim out any low spots so you have a flat surfHCI to
work with.
Use a mason's line and line level to find the lowest corner of the
house. Measure up from that corner the distance specified by the
manufacturer and snap a level chalk line all around the house.
Using the chalk line as a guide, nail starter strip all around the
bottom of the building. Leave 1/4" between the ends wherever
two pieces butt together (Fig. 4).
Install the inside and outside corner posts. Leave a 1/4" gap at
the eaves and let the post extend below the bottom of the old
siding 1/4".
Install J-channel on the sides and then across the tops of all doors
and windows. Notch the J-channel to provide a drip edge at the
corners (Fig. 5). Then install J-channel along the sloped eaves at
all gable end walls.
FIG. 5 - Cut a tab in the end of the J-channel Nail undersill trim under all windows and along all horizontal
over a door or window, then bend it into the side eaves.
channel to form a rain drip.
Install the siding panels, working from the starter strip up.
Stagger the joints 4' apart.
Overlap the panels 1" at each joint with the overlap away from
entrances or high traffic areas to minimize visibility (Fig. 6).
Leave 1/4" clearance wherever the ends of panels butt into J-
channel or corner posts.
Check every fifth or sixth course to make sure the run is level
and don't force the panels up against the previous row. The
panels should hang loose.
To notch a panel where it will fit under a window, first mark the
section you'll be cutting out. Cut from the top of the panel with a
tin snip, then score the panel horizontally with a utility knife and
snap it apart.
Dimple the cut edge 16" on center with the snaplock punch
FIG. 6 - Panel ends should be overlapped away (make sure the lugs are on the outside of the panel), then push
from prevailing traffic, either 1" or according to the the siding panel into plHCI.
manufacturer's specifications.
At the horizontal eaves, rip the panel to width with a circular saw
(use a fine-toothed blade). Punch the cut edge 16" on center with
the snaplock punch, then push the panel into plHCI.
Information and illustrations for this brochure were taken from

"Rigid Vinyl Siding Application" by the Vinyl Siding Institute.
Vinyl Siding J-Channel
Inside Corner Posts Outside Corner Posts
Undersill Trim Hammer
Chalk Line Steel Tape Measure
Utility Knife Straightedge
Tin Snips Level
Line Level Circular Saw
Fine-Toothed Blades Galvanized Roofing Nails
Snaplock Punch Nail Hole Punch
Unlocking Tool Hacksaw

Ladder Carpenter's Square
Felt Tip Pen Mason's Line
Sawhorses
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions on how to lay concrete blocks. Take the time to read the directions
thoroughlythey can save you time and effort. They also help you end up with a neater, more satisfactory
installationwith far less waste. In this document you will find information about:
Select the Right Blocks for the Job

Pouring the Footing for a Block Wall
Estimating Blocks and Mortar Needed
Preparing to Lay the Concrete Blocks
Laying the Concrete Blocks
SELECT THE RIGHT BLOCKS FOR THE JOB
Fig. 1 shows a few of the many types of concrete blocks

available for modern construction. Select the correct block for
your job before starting the project.Your retailer will be glad to
help you select the correct blocks if you need further direction.
All 8" blocksthe standard unitare actually 7-5/8" in width. This

allows for the thickness of the mortar on the finished job.
The standard unit is suitable for most projects. Half-blocks with

square or rounded corners are often necessary at the end of a run.
FIG. 1 - Select the correct blocks before
Both single and double corner units provide a block that gives a
beginning the job.
smooth finish at the corner.
Jamb joist blocks are used around doorways.
Sash units provide an opening for casement windows, while

header blocks are designed to provide a spHCI for wooden
supports or other structures at the top of a wall.
Other special blocks are available for almost any building

requirement.
POURING THE FOOTING FOR A BLOCK WALL
Every block wallregardless of height or lengthshould be plHCId

on a secure footing of poured concrete (Fig. 2). A block barbecue
grill or outdoor fireplHCI requires a large concrete pad as a
footing.
The footing should always be poured deep enough so that the

base is below the frost line.
Always make the footing at least twice as deep as the thickness

of the wall and twice as wide (Fig. 2). For example, if you are
using 8" blocks, the footing should be at least 8" deep and about
FIG. 2 - Pour a footing of concrete for any block
16" wide. This footing will provide a 4" rim on each side of the
wall.
block when laid.
The form for such footings can be made from rough 2x4s, held in
plHCI by wooden stakes driven into the ground about every 3' to
4' (Fig. 2).
For a footing poured in an area where drainage is a problem, lay

a drain line along the outer edge of the form (Fig. 2). Allow for a
drop of about 1" for each 20' of drain line. Backfill over the drain
line with about 12" of crushed stone or gravel.
Before you pour the footing, be sure it will not prevent the
natural run-off of water and will not divert the flow of water onto
FIG. 3 - Use a 2x4 or other straightedge to level
any neighboring property.
the concrete.
If gas, electric or water supply lines must pass through the
footing, you must make an opening. Do this by nailing together
four pieces of 2x8 and laying them in the proper position before
the footing is poured. In many cases, a 4" piece of drain tile will
serve the same purpose. Mark the depth and location of the
utility opening on your foundation plan or with a stake so you
can find it easily later on.
For large concrete foundation jobs that cannot be finished with

one pouring, divide the forms into sections you can handle.
Complete one before proceeding to the next.
Make sure your footing is level by placing a level across the

footings about every 8'. Adjust the height of the 2x4s by raising
or lowering the stakes to make the 2x4s level on each side at all
points around the footing.
Fill the form to the top edge, then level the freshly poured
concrete by pulling a 2x4 or some other straightedge along the
top of the form (Fig. 3).
Work the straightedge back and forthin a sawing motionuntil the

concrete is level. Fill in any low spots with additional concrete.
Wipe away surplus concrete in the high spots.
Allow ample time for the concrete to dry fully. If the footing is
to carry an extremely heavy load, drying may require up to three
days.
ESTIMATING BLOCKS AND MORTAR NEEDED
Fig. 4 provides a table that will help you estimate the number of
blocks and the amount of mortar you'll need for your job.
FIG. 4
Use this table to help you estimate the number

of blocks and mortar needed for your project.
Number of Concrete Blocks Required for Each Sq. Ft.
of Wall
Based on 3/8" Mortar Joint
BLOCKS PER 100 SQ.

BLOCK SIZE
FT. OF WALL AREA
4 X 4 X 16 225
6 X 4 X 16 225
8 X 4 X 16 225
4 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
6 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
8 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
12 X 8 X 16 112-1/2
Mortar Needed for Concrete Blocks

PER 100 SQ. FT.
BLOCK SIZE OF WALL PER 100 BLOCKS
AREA
4" Blocks 13-1/2 Cu. Ft 6 Cu. Ft.
8" Blocks 8-1/2 Cu. Ft. 7-1/2 Cu. Ft.
Select the block size you will be using in the left-hand column.
The right-hand column will show you the number of blocks and
the amount of mortar required for the job.
You can also estimate for the number of blocks required by

allowing three 8" blocks for every 4' on each course of blocks.
PREPARING TO LAY THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
Before starting to lay the blocks, drive stakes into the ground and
build a form at each corner (Fig. 5). These stakes and forms can
be made from scrap pieces of wood used on the job.
Locate the exact corner by stretching lines from one corner form
to the other as illustrated in Fig. 5. The exact corner will be the
point at which the two lines cross.
FIG. 5 - Locate the exact corner by stretching Drop a plumb bob down from each line, both at the corner point
lines from one corner form to the other. The two where the lines cross and at positions about 2' out in each
lines cross at the exact center. direction.
Determine the exact number of blocks required for the first

course by laying out a course of block on the dry concrete (Fig.
6). Do not use mortar for this test runyou are merely determining
the number of blocks required for the job.
Be sure to use the corner blocks where needed, and cut blocks as
required.
Use scrap pieces of 3/8" plywood to fill in the mortar joint

between each block. This is the thickness of the mortar when
applied.
After this test run, remove the blocks and prepare for the actual
FIG. 6 - Lay out a dry test run to determine the
number of concrete blocks needed. Use 3/8" laying of the first course.
plywood pieces between blocks to fill in the
mortar.
LAYING THE CONCRETE BLOCKS
Drop plumb bobs down from the corner string and at positions
about 3' out from the corner (Fig. 5). Mark the location of the
corner block on the footing base as shown.
Spread the mortar out about 1" deep and 8" wide in the marked
area (Fig 7). Extend this mortar out for a distance of about three
or four blocks in one direction.
Put a furrow in the center of the mortar with a trowel. This

furrow will force the mortar to the edge of the block when it is
laid (Fig. 7).
FIG. 7 - Spread the mortar about 1" deep and 8"
wide, using a furrow in the center to force the Set the corner block first. Be sure you are using the correct block
mortar to the edge. (finished end).
Check the starting corner block, both horizontally and vertically,

and take time to get it positioned correctly. All other blocks will
align with this starter block, so it's very important to set it exactly.
Follow this same procedure as you reach the other corners,

laying the first course out about two or three blocks in each
direction.
Tie a line between two bricks and stretch it between the two
corner blocks on the first course.
FIG. 8 - After spreading the mortar on the
Continue to lay the base mortar on the footing as the course
footing, apply mortar to the ends of the blocks.
continues. Apply mortar to the ends of the blocks with a trowel
and plHCI the block in position (Fig. 8).
Keep all mortar joints at about 3/8". If necessary to make spacing

adjustments, fill some mortar joints 1/2" to 3/4".
If you must cut a block to fill a course, use a masonry chisel as

illustrated in Fig. 9. Draw a line on both sides of the block where
the cut is to be made. Strike the chisel with a bricklayer's
hammer. You will soon learn to make such cuts easily.
FIG. 9 - To cut blocks, use a wide chisel and After you've laid four or five blocks, use a long mason's level or
bricklayer's hammer. some type of straightedge to check the alignment of the blocks
(Fig. 10). Check both the tops of the blocks and the outside edge
for correct alignment.
Tap the blocks into position to make any alignment corrections

while the mortar is still wet. Never attempt to move a block after
the concrete begins to set.
Build up the corners first. Always keep the corners about a block
or two higher than other runs until you finish the job.
Keep the guidelines between the corners at all times. They will
help you keep the blocks level at all points in each course. Be
careful not to knock the lines out of alignment.
Always keep the guidelines tight. If one side gets bumped out of
position, take a minute to level it.
FIG. 10 - Check the alignment with a long
mason's level after a few blocks are laid. Check Use a trowel to cut away any surplus mortar. Throw the surplus
the tops and the outside edge. mortar back onto the mortarboard. Keep turning the mortar with
your trowel throughout the project so small portions will not
harden.
Use a piece of 3/4" plyboard or the bed of a wheelbarrow as a

FIG. 11 - The block corners should strike evenly mortarboard. Always wet the board or the wheelbarrow bed
along a level held diagonally. before placing the mortar in it.
Never mix more mortar than you can use in about an hour and a
half or two hours. On a hot day, keep the mortar covered with a
piece of plastic to hold in moisture.
FIG. 12 - Set anchor bolts every 3' to 4' in the
top run if wood framing is to be applied. Use as much water as the mortar will take and still remain elastic.
Continue to stagger the blocksworking from the cornersand build

the wall to the desired height.
FIG. 13 - Load-bearing walls should be Take time to level each course. Use a level that is at least 3' long.
anchored with metal tie bars.
Lay all blocks with the thicker end of the fHCI shell up.
Keep a leveling string at the top of each course on each run of

block.
Measure both the length and the height of the wall after every
two or three runs. Also, hold your level diagonally along the
block corners to check for accuracy (Fig. 11). If the blocks are
being laid accurately, the corners will strike evenly along a level
held in this position.
After all the blocks are laid and while the mortar can still be
pressed with the fingers, take a jointer and finish the mortar
joints to the appearance desired. Keep the jointer wet during this
part of the job.
You may need to add reinforcing rods to walls built extremely

high or in areas where ground pressures may vary.
Lay 1/4" reinforcing rods as illustrated, with the ends overlapped

2" to 3". Mortar can be plHCId directly over the rods.
If wood framing will be attached to the top run, set an anchor

bolt every 3' to 4' in the last run (Fig. 12).
If a load-bearing wall intersects with the outside wall, it should

be tied to the main wall with metal tie bars (Fig. 13). Bars as
shown should be set in plHCI on at least every other run.
Nonload-bearing walls connecting to main walls can be tied in

by laying a 16" strip of 1/2" mesh galvanized hardware cloth
directly on top of the block.
A strip of this cloth should be used for every other course at the
tie-in point.
If the concrete blocks are being laid as a fence or barrier, the top
course can be finished off by filling in the holes with fresh
concrete mix and a trowel.
For a neater and more enduring finish, use patio blocks for an
attractive and weatherproof finish.
Concrete Blocks Level
Trowel Wheelbarrow
Garden Hose 100' of Cord
3/8" Plywood Anchor Bolts
Drain Tile 1/2" Galvanized Hardware Cloth

5/8" Plywood Mortar
Carpenter's Square Masonry Chisel
Work Gloves Mortar Hoe
Galvanized or Plastic Pail 2x4s for Framing
Plumb Bob Tie-in Bars
Jointer Mortar Board
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions on working with concrete. Take the time to read these directions
thoroughly; following them can save you time and effort. It can also help you end up with a neater,
more satisfactory installationwith far less waste.
Determining the Type of Concrete to Use

Mixing Your Own Concrete
Estimating the Materials Needed
Building the Forms for Pouring Concrete
Pouring Concrete
Reinforcing Concrete
Different Ways to Finish Concrete
Letting the Concrete Cure
DETERMINING THE TYPE OF CONCRETE TO USE
You can use many different types of concrete. Ready-mix

concrete, which requires only the addition of water, is the
simplest to use. It is ideal for small jobs but can be quite
expensive for big projects.
Transit-mix concrete is delivered to the job site in revolving

barrel trucks. This is the simplest and easiest way to buy
concrete for large projects. However, you'll be paying for the
delivery of the concrete and the convenience of premixing.
Check local sources for competitive prices on transit-mix
concrete.
You-Haul concrete is available in some areas. You buy the
concrete and rent a You-Haul trailer mixer for transporting the
concrete to the work site with your car or truck. Again, you have
to pay for the premixing and the trailer rental. Check locally for
prices on You-Haul concrete.
The least expensive way to purchase concrete for large projects

is to buy the dry ingredients and mix them yourself at the job
site. Of course, this requires a lot of work, and you must either
rent or purchase the necessary mixers and other equipment.
The type of concrete you use will be based on the amount of

concrete you need and local prices for the various types.
MIXING YOUR OWN CONCRETE
There are four basic elements in concrete: Portland cement; a

fine aggregate, such as sand; a coarse aggregate, such as crushed
rock or gravel; and water.
The aggregates (sand and gravel) usually make up from 2/3 to

3/4 of the volume of any finished concrete. All aggregates should
be clean and free of organic matter.
The water used for mixing concrete should be clean and free of
acids, alkalies, oils and sulfates.
FIG. 1 - Measure a cubic foot of sand or
concrete with a wooden box measuring 12" x 12" Although the ingredients in concrete are always the same, the
x 12". finished results depend on the proper mix of the four elements.
The proper mix of ingredients is determined by the intended use

of the concrete.
For foundations and retaining walls, use about 6-1/4 gallons of

water for each sack of cement if the sand is damp. However, if
the sand is wet, 5-1/2 gallons of water will easily do the job.
Concrete that's mixed for pouring sidewalks, stepping stones,

slabs, etc., requires about 5-3/4 gallons of water per sack of
cement if the sand is damp and about 5 gallons if the sand is wet.
If you are pouring heavy footings for walls where waterproofing
is not a factor, mix the concrete with 1 part cement, 3 parts sand
and 4 parts gravel.
For sidewalks, steps, driveways, etc., use 1 part Portland cement,

2 parts sand and 3 parts gravel.
For small jobs, you can measure the ingredients using an

ordinary galvanized or plastic pail.
A wooden box measuring 12" x 12" x 12" (Fig. 1) can give you
an accurate measurement for 1 cubic foot of sand or concrete.
Nail 3/4" half-round to one side of the box at carefully measured

points. This will allow you to measure 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 of a cubic
foot.
Always follow the mixing instructions on the bag when mixing

your concrete.
ESTIMATING THE MATERIALS NEEDED
Fig. 2 provides a table showing the number of cubic yards of

concrete required to pour slabs of varying sizes and thicknesses.
FIG. 2
Multiply the length of the area by the width to

determine the area's square footage
Area in square feet

Thickness in inches
(length x width)
4 5 6 8 12
50 0.62 0.77 0.93 1.2 1.9
100 1.2 1.5 1.9 2.5 3.7

200 2.5 3.1 3.7 4.9 7.4
300 3.7 4.7 5.6 7.4 11.1
400 4.9 6.2 7.4 9.8 14.8
500 6.2 7.2 9.3 12.4 18.6
To use this table, multiply the length by the width of the area you
plan to cover with concrete. This gives you the square footage of
the area.
Now, refer to the number of square feet and the thickness in

inches of the slab you plan to pour. The figure on the appropriate
line shows the number of cubic yards of concrete you'll need to
do the job.
For example, if you are planning to pour a patio that's 10' x 14',
you have a total of 140 square feet.
Suppose you plan to pour the patio slab 5" thick. Consult the
tableyou'll find that 100 square feet of a slab this thick requires
1.5 cubic yards of concrete and an additional 50 square feet
would require .77 cubic yards. Therefore, you would need 2.27
cubic yards of concrete to pour the slab.
BUILDING THE FORMS FOR POURING CONCRETE
Almost any concrete job requires some type of form. In some

cases, forms are built above the ground while others require
digging.
Dig down to the desired level (Fig. 3), and build forms to the
shape and size needed for the concrete job you are starting.
Use temporary posts to establish the proper grade or slope of the

concrete.
FIG. 3 - Build forms to the shape and size Nail the stakes lightly to the forms used (Fig. 3), or clamp the
needed for your job. forms temporarily to the stakes with a "C" clamp.
Use a level to ensure that you have the proper grade or slope of
the concrete form.
After the proper grade has been set, drive in permanent stakes
and nail the form to the stakes.
POURING CONCRETE
After the forms are set, spray the entire area lightly with a garden
hose, then pour in the concrete.
After the form is filled, tamp the freshly poured concrete to

compact it. Use a tamper, or put on rubber boots and walk
around the poured concrete area to make sure it is compacted
FIG. 4 - Use a straightedged 2x4 to level the around the edges.
concrete.
Small concrete areas can be compacted with a 2x4. For larger
areas, you may want to rent roller tampers.
After the concrete in the form has been thoroughly tamped, use a
straightedged 2x4 as a screed for leveling the concrete (Fig. 4).
Work the 2x4 back and forth in sawing fashion to level the
concrete at all points across the form.
Purchase a magnesium concrete rake with an extension handle to

level concrete in hard-to-reach plHCIs.
When the concrete has set sufficiently to support a 2x8 plank,

FIG. 5 - Use a 2x8 plank as a straightedge to use the plank as a straightedge to guide a groover (Fig. 5) to cut
guide a concrete groover. contraction joints (Fig. 6). Contraction joints are necessary to
allow hardened concrete to expand and contract in extreme
temperatures.
On sidewalks or other narrow concrete areas, contraction joints

should be cut every 4' to 6'.
On patios or other large concrete areas, expansion joints should

be cut in each direction every 4' to 6'. Use two lengths of beveled
clapboard plHCId in the position shown in Fig. 7 to cut these
joints.
Drive a nail into the top of one board and paint both boards with
motor oil. The boards should then be embedded in the concrete,
as shown in Fig. 7.
After the concrete begins to set, the board with the nail in the top
can be removed, leaving the second board hidden. This provides
an adequate contraction joint for a large expanse of concrete.
FIG. 6 - Draw the groover along the edge of a 2
x 8 to create contraction joints.
FIG. 7 - Create expansion joints on large

concrete areas by using clapboard siding.
REINFORCING CONCRETE
In some cases, concrete needs reinforcement with steel mesh

(Fig. 8). You can use regular fencing material with 2' x 4' or 2' x
6' mesh.
If the pressure on the concrete is to come from the top of the

slab, the reinforcement should be laid deep near the bottom of
the slab.
FIG. 8 - Wire-reinforcing mesh is used to If the strong point of the slab is at the center and the pressure
strengthen some concrete. will come on either end, the reinforcement should be laid as
close to the top of the slab as possible.
DIFFERENT WAYS TO FINISH CONCRETE
You can give concrete a smooth finish with a trowel and a float
(Fig. 9). The float will smooth out the concrete on the first
rubbing.
A trowel (Fig. 10) is used to give the concrete a finishing touch.

FIG. 9 - Use a wooden float to smooth the
You can create a light, swirled pattern by holding a steel trowel
concrete prior to finishing the surfHCI.
flat against the surfHCI of the slab and moving it around in a
swirling motion. Do this the last time you trowel the concrete.
For a heavier swirling pattern, use a wood float instead of a

trowel and do the swirling while the concrete is still fairly wet.
Create a soft pattern of parallel lines by dragging a soft brush

straight across a moderately wet surfHCI (Fig. 11).
To achieve heavy lines, drag the softbrush across while the

surfHCI is still wet.
For light-textured parallel lines, trowel the concrete and allow it

to dry slightly before dragging the brush across (Fig. 11).
FIG. 10 - Use a steel finishing trowel to give the
concrete a smooth, even surfHCI. Use an ordinary broom to create a very attractive and practical
pattern in concrete (Fig. 11). This technique provides a rough
finish that makes the concrete surfHCI much safer when wet.
You can make all brush strokes in the same direction, or each
block between contraction joints can be brushed in opposite
directions for a unique appearance.
Use an ordinary garage floor brush to create attractive wavy

patterns in newly laid concrete. The wavy patterns enhance the
appearance and make the surfHCI safer when wet.
FIG. 11 - Different brooms will create different You can create a flagstone pattern by tooling the concrete after it
finishes on concrete surfHCIs. has been leveled off with a darby or float. To make the flagstone
pattern, use an 18" length of 1/2" or 3/4" copper pipe that is
slightly bent (Fig. 12).
Trowel and brush the concrete surfHCI lightly after the flagstone
pattern has been created in the wet concrete.
There are also forms available for concrete that will create a
flagstone walk. These work extremely well for smaller projects.
For larger areas a relative new concrete stamping process creates
the same look on driveways and patios. Contractors, due to the
cost of the equipment needed, normally do this concrete
stamping.
FIG. 12 - Use a 1/2" or 3/4" copper pipe that is
slightly bent to create a flagstone pattern. Whatever pattern you choose to create, remember, the pattern
should not trap water and cause it to stand on the concrete.
Standing water is one of the major causes for concrete failure.
Special colorants are available for concrete. When added to the

concrete mix, these colorants can make concrete look like red
brick or any number of other materials. Concrete can be colored
to accent the color of your home.
LETTING THE CONCRETE CURE
All concrete must be given time to cure. During this period, the
concrete surfHCI should be kept wet by repeated hosing with a
fine mist.
This hosing process should be done at least twice during any 24-
hour period for about three days after the concrete is poured.
Concrete poured indoors can be left exposed. However, you

should plHCI a guard rail around the area to keep any child or
animal from walking on the surfHCI until it is dry.
Concrete laid in the open air or in direct sunlight should be

covered with burlap, roofing felt or building paper during the
curing period. Remove this protective covering before wetting
the concrete.
Never attempt a big concrete job on an extremely hot day.

Concrete sets extremely fast in direct sunshine. It's better to wait
until mid-afternooneven if this means you must work late into
the evening.
You can improve the looks of the concrete and make it last
longer by sealing the concrete after it has thoroughly cured.
Sealers can either be clear or colored. Some coatings have an
additive that provides better traction on the concrete surfHCI. Be
careful when choosing the coatings and sealers. Some are
extremely slippery when wet and should not be used outside.
Concrete Mix Garden Hose
Level Darby or Float
Hatchet Tiling Spade
Groover Long 2x4s for Screed
Line Brush or Broom
Concrete Hoe Plastic or Galvanized Pail
2x4s and Other Material for Forms Edger
Rubber Boots Line Level
Reinforcing Mesh Trowel
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to patch and repair concrete. Take the time to read these directions
thoroughly to save time, money and effort. This will also help you end up with a neater, more
satisfactory jobwith far less waste. In this document you will find information about:
Repairing Hairline Cracks

Repairing Cracks in Sidewalks
Repairing Concrete Driveways
Repairing Cracks and Holes in Concrete Walls
Patching Holes in Walks or Driveways
Repairing Broken Corners on Concrete
REPAIRING HAIRLINE CRACKS
You can repair hairline cracks in concrete with a grout made of

Portland cement and water. Add just enough water to the cement to
form a thick paste.
Moisten the old concrete along the hairline crack with water for
several hours before adding the grout. Moistening the concrete
prevents it from drawing the water from the grout, which will dry
out the mixture. Although the old concrete should be moist, no
water should be standing on the surfHCI when the grout is applied.
After the hairline crack has been moistened and thoroughly

cleaned, apply the grout with a putty knife or pointing trowel.
Force the grout into the crack as much as possible. Then smooth it
off so it is level with the original concrete.
Allow the patched area to dry about two hours. Then, cover the
area with a piece of plastic sheeting or a board.
Keep the area covered for about five days. Lift the covering once
each day and sprinkle the area with water.
REPAIRING CRACKS IN SIDEWALKS
Cracks in sidewalks that are larger than hairline cracks must be

enlarged before they can be satisfactorily repaired. Enlarge the
crack along its entire length with a cold chisel and hammer (Fig. 1).
Make the crack wider at the bottom than at the top (Fig. 2). This is
known as undercutting. It helps to bond the new concrete with the
older concrete.
FIG. 1 - Enlarge the crack with a cold chisel and
a hammer before attempting to repair it. Undercut the crack to a minimum depth of 1". The depth of the
undercutting depends on the size and depth of the crack to be
repaired.
After the crack has been thoroughly undercut, remove all loose
material and brush the area with a wire brush.
FIG. 2 - WRONG - Don't just pour new concrete Use a garden hose or a tire pump to blow or wash away the dust in
into the old crack. the crack.
The new concrete patch will hold better if a concrete adhesive is

used first. There are many types of concrete adhesives. Acrylic
resina milky fluidis one common type. Brush the adhesive into the
RIGHT - Undercut the crack to give holding power undercut area and allow it to dry until it becomes tacky (Fig. 3).
to the new patching mix.
If you do not use a cement adhesive, thoroughly brush and soak the
area to be patched. Moistening the area prevents the old concrete
from absorbing all the moisture in the concrete patch. Although it
should be moist, no water should be standing on the area where the
patch is to be applied.
For small patching jobs, use a pre-mixed concrete patch. If you use
ready-mix concrete patch, all you need to add is water.
If you mix your own concrete patch, use one part Portland cement
to two-and-a-half parts of fine, clean sand. Heavier concrete patch
jobs call for one part of Portland cement to two parts of sand to
three parts of gravel.
Tamp the concrete patch mix tightly into the undercut area. Be
sure to fill all areas completely.
FIG. 3 - Moisten the area to be repaired with
cement adhesive or water. When the mixture begins to set, smooth it down with either a metal
trowel or a wooden float (Fig. 4). Use a metal trowel for a smooth
finish. For a rough surfHCI, use a wood float for the finishing job.
After the patch is completed, allow it to dry for about two hours.
Then cover the patched area completely with plastic sheeting or
boards.
Keep the area covered for about five days. Lift the cover once each
day to wet down the repaired area, permitting the new concrete to
cure correctly.
REPAIRING CONCRETE DRIVEWAYS
You can repair a crack in a concrete driveway in basically the

same way as a crack in a concrete sidewalk. However, since the
driveway must carry heavier weight loads, the repaired area must
withstand much greater pressure.
FIG. 4 - Smooth off the repair job with a metal
trowel or wooden float, depending on the finish Use a gravel mix, rather than a sand mix, for repairing concrete
desired. driveways. This mix is one part Portland cement, two parts sand
and three parts gravel.
Thoroughly clean and then undercut the crack. Brush cement

adhesive into the undercut area.
Undercut the cracked area to a greater depth and make the cracks
considerably wider than when repairing a sidewalk. This extra
depth and width increases the strength of the repair job.
Follow all of the steps outlined previously in repairing a crack in a

sidewalk to repair a crack in a concrete driveway.
After the gravel mix has been applied, level the new patch mix off
with a trowel or float, as you would do when repairing a sidewalk
(Fig. 4).
Cover the patched area for five days, wetting it down once each
day.
Do not drive an automobile over the patched area for at least five
days. This gives the newly patched section time to dry thoroughly
before it must carry the heavy load of an automobile or truck.
REPAIRING CRACKS AND HOLES

IN CONCRETE WALLS
Repairing a crack in a concrete wall requires basically the same

steps as repairing a crack in a sidewalk or driveway.
The cracked area must first be undercut and widened in basically

the same way as previously described for a sidewalk (Fig. 2).
The widening and undercutting can be done with a cold chisel and
hammer (Fig. 5). The width and depth of the undercutting depends
on the size and length of the crack.
FIG. 5 - Enlarge and undercut a concrete wall
After all loose material has been chipped away, thoroughly clean
crack with a cold chisel and hammer.
the undercut area around the crack with a stiff wire brush (Fig. 6).
Do not brush the area enough to smooth off the edges. The rough
surfHCI created by the chiseling provides a good bond for the new
concrete you'll apply.
When the enlarged area has been thoroughly cleaned, apply

cement adhesive with a brush. This is the same cement adhesive
used when repairing sidewalks. If you do not have a cement
adhesive, prime the area with a thin, creamy mixture of Portland
cement and water.
In some cases, you can make the patch by simply moistening the
area thoroughly before filling the crack with concrete (Fig. 7).
Although the moistening is important, a concrete adhesive or the
mixture of Portland cement and water is much more desirable than
moistening with water only.
You can use a ready-mix concrete patch for small cracks in cement
walls. Force the mixture into the cutaway area with a pointing
trowel (Fig. 8). Be sure to use enough pressure to force the patch
FIG. 6 - Clean the undercut area with a stiff wire
mix into all the cutaway areas in the crack.
brush, but leave a rough surfHCI.
It may be difficult to conceal the patch, since the finish on the old
concrete is difficult to duplicate. To conceal the patch, simply
experiment with matching the original finish by roughing up the
patched area while it is still workable. Try using an old broom, a
float, or any other tool to create the desired rough finish.
You can patch holes and broken areas in concrete walls by simply
clearing out the hole in the same basic way you would undercut a
crack.
After the hole has been thoroughly cleaned and cut away, apply the
cement adhesive and insert the patch mix into the hole with a
pointing trowel (Fig. 9).
Moisten the area and cure it after the patch is applied in the same
FIG. 7 - Moistening the area to be repaired
way cracks in cement driveways or sidewalks are moistened and
prevents the newly applied patch from drying out. cured.
FIG. 8 - Force the concrete patch mix into the

area with a pointing trowel.
FIG. 9 - Repair holes in concrete walls the same
way you repair cracks.
PATCHING HOLES IN WALKS

OR DRIVEWAYS
How you patch holes in sidewalks and driveways depends on the

depth and the size of the hole. If the hole is extremely deep and
large, you must undercut it as previously described and fill the area
with a gravel mix.
Small, shallow holes in flat-surfHCId concretesuch as driveways,

FIG. 10 - Small holes in concrete can be patios or sidewalkscan easily be repaired with latex cement (Fig.
repaired with latex cement. 10). If the hole is small and shallow, no chipping away is required.
Small, shallow holes need only to be cleaned thoroughly before

adding the latex cement.
This cleaning can usually be done with a wire brush, which

removes all the small pieces of loose concrete when you rub the
area thoroughly (Fig. 11).
After using the wire brush on the damaged area, use a lighter brush
to remove the loose particles that were dislodged by the wire
brush. Then, wash the area to be repaired with a garden hose (Fig.
12).
After the cleaning is done, you are ready to apply the latex cement.
This usually comes in 5-lb. cans, with the liquid latex in a smaller
can inside a larger can.
Pour the liquid latex into the larger can and thoroughly mix it with
FIG. 11 - Brush away all loose particles before the latex cement to form a heavy paste. Apply this paste to the area
applying the latex cement. to be patched in approximately 1/4" layers. Smooth each layer with
a trowel and allow to partially dry before applying the next layer.
Build up the latex cement 1/4" at a time until it reaches the same
level as the original concrete. Then, smooth out the area with a
trowel or float as you would finish regular concrete (Fig. 13).
FIG. 12 - Brush the area to be repaired with a

light brush and wash it out with a garden hose.
FIG. 13 - Finish the latex cement with a trowel.

REPAIRING BROKEN CORNERS ON CONCRETE
You can repair broken corners on concrete with latex or epoxy

cement (Fig. 14). A broken corner should be thoroughly cleaned
and moistened before the mixture is applied.
After the corner has been thoroughly brushed and washed, build up
the latex or epoxy cement mix 1/4" at a time, as previously
FIG. 14 - Broken corners on concrete can be described. If the area to be repaired is quite large, you may need to
repaired with latex cement.
build a small form to hold the mix while it is drying.
Concrete and Aggregate Garden Hose
Concrete Float Work Gloves
Cold Chisel Fiber Brush
Concrete Patch Mix Latex or Epoxy
Cement Pointing Trowel
Hammer Wire Brush
Finishing Trowel
contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor,
in this document.

Materials available for asphalt driveway maintenance include emulsified liquids, plastic fillers and
solid cold-patches. For a complete driveway rejuvenation, you may need all three.
Before tackling any maintenance or repair, check your driveway for these conditions:
Impressions left by car tires after the car has been parked on the drive overnight. This is an indication
of poor construction.
Heaving or tilting during cold weather, or buckling or cracking with the spring thaw. These are signs of
poor drainage.
To repair these troubles, you'll need a new driveway. Fortunately, such problems are not common.
More likely problems are minor cracks, crumbling and chuckholes, which are relatively easy to repair.
The procedure and materials used depends on whether you're repairing cracks, filling low spots,
patching or seal-coating your driveway. Your local retailer can help you select the products you need
for making repairs.
REPAIRING CRACKS
You should fill any cracks in a blacktop drive as soon as possible

to keep water from getting under the slab and causing more
serious problems. Cracks that are 1/2" and wider are filled with
asphalt cold-patch, sold in bags and cans. Narrow cracks are
treated with crack-filler, which is available in cans, plastic pour
bottles and handy caulking cartridges.
Use a masonry chisel, wire brush or similar tool to dig away
FIG. 1 - Use a masonry chisel or other sharp tool chunks of loose and broken material from the crack (Fig. 1).
to scrape loose any crumbling material out of the
crack. Sweep out the crack with a stiff-bristled broom (Fig. 2). Your
shop vacuum will also work well.
Use a garden hose with a pressure nozzle to clean off all dust. If
the area is badly soiled or covered with oil or grease drippings,
scrub it with a strong commercial driveway cleaning agent. For a
patch to adhere, the crack must be free of all such things. After
using a cleaner, rinse the area with water.
For a deep crack, fill it to within 1/4" of the top with closed-cell
plastic backer rod or sand before applying a patching compound.
Apply the crack-filler (Fig. 3).

FIG. 2 -Sweep the crack and surrounding area
with a stiff-bristled broom to clear all debris.
FIG. 3 - Fill the crack so that it is level with the

surfHCI, using an asphalt crack-filler.
FILLING DEPRESSED AREAS
Depressed areas, sometimes called "birdbaths," cause water

puddles on the driveway. If not too deepless than an inchthese
areas can be filled so they're even with the surrounding surfHCI.
Sweep away all dirt, hose down the area and remove any oil or
grease by washing with a detergent or cleaner.
FIG. 4 - Use a trowel to spread asphalt cold- The surfHCI may be slightly damp when applying the patching
patching into the depressed area, making it level material, but make sure there is no standing water.
with the surrounding surfHCI.
To help the new material adhere to the old, prime the area with
emulsified liquid asphalt, which is often simply called "driveway
coating."
Then, use a trowel to spread asphalt cold-patching material into

the depression, filling it level with the surrounding surfHCI (Fig.
4). Smooth the patch, then tamp it with a metal tamper or a 5' to
6' length of 2x8 or 4x4 lumber. Used vertically (Fig. 5), the
lumber has the surfHCI area and weight for successful tamping.
Allow your blacktop patch to dry for 24 hours before seal-

coating the entire driveway.
FIG. 5 - Tamp the patch down firmly, and fill in

any low spots with additional material.
PATCHING CHUCKHOLES
For chuckholes or potholes, first dig out any loose material and
dirt down to a solid base. It's best to undercut the edges slightly
to provide a "key" for the patching material (Fig. 6). Make sure
the edges of the asphalt around the hole are firm.
Clean all dust and debris from the hole and surrounding areas.
FIG. 6 - To make a solid patch, clean out and If the hole is very deep, fill it to within 4" of the top with gravel.
undercut around the edges of a chuckhole. Tamp this down firmly.
You don't have to work with hot-mix patchers as professionals

docold-mix patching products do an excellent job of repairing
driveways. Fluid cold-patches that come in cans may need to be
stirred before use. Use a strong stick or a stirring attachment
chucked into your electric drill.
You can prime the repair area by painting it with emulsified

asphalt liquid. Priming helps the new material bond to the old.
Then apply the cold-patch material, patting it down occasionally
FIG. 7 - When placing cold-patch mix in the hole, with a shovel or trowel to help compact it and prevent air
slice into it with a spade or trowel to prevent air pockets from forming (Fig. 7).
pockets from forming.
Put in a 2" depth of cold-patch and tamp it firmly or roll it with a
garden roller. Add more material in 2" lifts, tamping each lift.
The next-to-last lift should fill the hole to within an inch of the
top. Tamp it as shown in Fig. 8.
Now add more patching material, filling the hole and mounding
it slightly above the surrounding surfHCI. Tamp it down as
firmly as you can. You can tamp it by hand or by repeatedly
running your car's tire over it (Fig. 9).
FIG. 8 - Fill in the patching material to about 1"
from the top, then tamp it firmly.
Fill in any low areas with more cold-patch mix. Compact it until
it's even with the driveway surfHCI.
Allow the repaired area to cure for 12 to 36 hours before driving

on it, and give it two to five days to cure before seal-coating the
entire driveway.
FIG. 9 - To compact the repair most easily, drive

your car back and forth on it. If the tire picks up
too much asphalt, plHCI a board over the patch
before tamping.
SEALING THE DRIVE
Use a sealant to coat blacktop surfHCIs every few years. The

ideal time to seal your drive is after you have completed any
repairs. Sealer gives a fresh, new look to a driveway. And it does
more than thatit provides protection from sun and moisture and
from grease, oil and gasoline drips and spills, as well as other
damaging substances. Sealer guards against everyday wear and
tear. It also fills hairline cracks that aren't serious enough to
require individual patching.
FIG. 10 - Some blacktop sealers can be applied
with a long-handled paint roller. The blacktop surfHCI must be clean before you apply sealer.
This includes dust, dirt, grease, oil and debris. Sweep it clean.
Remove grease and oil spots with detergent or cleaner. End the
cleaning by rinsing the area thoroughly with water. Squeegee
water from any puddled spots. It is not necessary that the
surfHCI be thoroughly dry before applying the sealer, but don't
do the job when rain is forecast.
Stir the sealer to make sure its ingredients are well-blended.
Some sealers can be applied with a long-handled paint roller

(Fig. 10). However, the best tool for this is a combination
squeegee/broom made for the purpose and available from your
FIG. 11 - A combination broom/squeegee is the retailer (Fig.11). Apply the sealer only to a small area of the
best tool for spreading blacktop sealer. driveway at a time. Pour it out and spread it around evenly with
the squeegee, brush or roller. Don't spread the sealer too thinone
good coat stands up for a long time. Allow small cracks and
weathered areas to drink in the sealer.
Be very careful to avoid splashing sealer onto walls, garage

doors and yourself. Moreover, plan the project so you will not
have to walk across the treated areas. Use carethis material can
make a mess of house floors.
Improve traction on sloped areas by adding sand to the sealer

mix. Stir it in thoroughly before applying, and keep the mix
stirred during application.
You can sprinkle sand over a sealer surfHCI that's still wet.
Excess sand not captured by the sealer can be swept up later.
Allow the sealer to cure for 24 hours before using the driveway
(products vary in the setting times, so check to see what's
required by the one you use). Erect string barriers at the street
end of the drive to remind family members to keep off and to
discourage casual traffic from spoiling your efforts.
ASPHALT SAFETY CHECKLIST
When working with any asphaltic material, avoid prolonged contact of the material with your skin.
Excessive breathing of asphalt materials should be avoided, too.
Wear heavy work gloves, old clothing and old shoes if you want to be protected from asphalt spatters.
When chipping or chiseling old blacktop, wear eye protection. Also, don't chisel with a carpenter's hammer
because it isn't designed for this type of job and its fHCI may chip. Instead, use a hand-drilling hammer or
machinist's hammer.
Keep all asphalt materials away from high heat. Keep solvent-thinned materials away from open flames.
Close containers after each use.
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product you are using.
Asphalt Crack Filler Shop Vacuum
Asphalt Cold-Patch Trowel
Emulsified Liquid Asphalt Stirring Stick
Driveway Cleaner Tamper
Detergent Garden Roller
Squeegee/Broom Long-Handled Paint Roller
Masonry Chisel Long-Nap Roller Cover
Hand-Drilling or Machinist's Hammer Closed-Cell Backer Rod
Shovel, Spade Rope Oakum
Stiff-Bristled Broom Sand
Garden Hose Gravel
Pressure Nozzle Wire Brush

in this document.

Masonry anchors have come a long way since the days of lead and zinc anchors. It used to be that
fastening anything to concrete was a major chore, but advances in materials and design have made
anchoring to concretewell, if not easy, at least within the reach of a handy do-it-yourselfer with an
average set of tools. Inside this document you will find information about:
How Masonry Anchors Work

Using Masonry Anchors
HOW MASONRY ANCHORS WORK
There are three basic types of masonry anchors: 1) mechanical, 2)

powder-actuated and 3) chemical. It's unlikely that you'll need a
chemical anchor unless you're building a bridge, and in many
states, certification is required to use powder-actuated fasteners.
This document describes how to use mechanical anchors.
Products do vary from one manufacturer to the next; if the

manufacturer's installation instructions are different than the
information in this document, always follow the manufacturer's
instructions. One caution when installing masonry anchorsalways
wear eye protection and follow the manufacturer's safety
instructions.
FIG. 1 - Expansion anchors work by pressing
outward into the surrounding concrete.
Most masonry anchors work in one of two wayseither by
expanding against the sides of the hole and gripping the concrete
(Fig. 1) or by friction against the sides of the hole (Fig. 2). The
holding power of any anchor depends on the quality of the
concrete and on where the anchor is plHCId. If the concrete is old
and crumbly, the holding power of the fastener will be reduced.
Likewise, if the anchor is plHCId near the edge of the concreteor

two anchors are plHCId too close togetherthe force generated by
the anchor may break the concrete. The general recommendation is
that any anchor should be plHCId no closer than five diameters
from the edge of the concrete. In other words, a 1/2" diameter
FIG. 2 - Friction anchors work by gripping the anchor should be no closer than 2-1/2" (1/2" x 5) from the edge of
concrete. the concrete.
Two anchors should never be plHCId closer than 10 diameters

from each other. In other words, two 1/2" anchors should be at
least 5" (1/2" x 10) apart.
The most important factor in choosing the proper anchor is the

type of load it will carry. An anchor is rated for two types of loads.
Shear loads are caused when the weight of the fixture exerts force
parallel to the surfHCI of the concrete (Fig. 3). Tensile loads are
caused when the fixture exerts force perpendicular to the surfHCI
(Fig. 4).
Naturally, a load may exert a combination of the two. An anchor

that carries a pipe hung from the ceiling is under a tensile load,
while a mirror hanging from a basement wall exerts almost a
purely shear load. A shelf hung from the same wall exerts a
FIG. 3 - A shear load is a load that is parallel to combination of the two forces, as does a floor-mounted anchor that
the surfHCI of the masonry. holds a table saw in plHCI in the garage.
Other load factors are also important. They include:
Static loads are loads that are steady and constantfor example, the
weight of the circuit breaker box fastened to your basement wall.
They plHCI the least stress on the anchors.
Dynamic or vibrating loads are loads that are constantly changing.

For example, if you hang a shelf from a concrete wall in order to
mount your electric grinder, the load on the anchors will be a
dynamic load. The strength rating of the anchors will be reduced
by the constant vibration of the load.
Impact loads are loads that change suddenlysuch as a box tossed

onto a shelf anchored to the basement wall.
FIG. 4 - A tensile load is a load that is Because of the inexact quality of concrete, the standard
perpendicular to the surfHCI of the masonry. recommendation is that the anchor you choose should be rated for
about four times the weight it will carry if it will bear a static load
and eight times the weight if it will carry a dynamic or impact load.
USING MASONRY ANCHORS
When choosing anchors, remember that the total load should be

divided by the number of anchors that will carry it.
Whatever type of anchor you decide to use, you'll probably want to

rent a hammer drill to drill the holes for it. Masonry drill bits work
by chipping concrete away (as opposed to wood bits, which cut
wood away). If you use a standard electric drill, you'll find that it
FIG. 5 - Plastic anchors are used with standard not only drills much more slowly, but you'll be much more likely
wood screws. to ream the sides of the hole and wind up with a hole much larger
than you intended.
The holes have to be exact in diameter and sometimes even an

exact depth in order for the anchor to work properly. Some
manufacturers' anchors must be installed with special drill bits. For
best results with masonry anchors, it is important to "blow out" any
excess dust from the drilled holes. One of the easiest ways to do
this is with a kitchen blaster.
This document covers four basic types of masonry anchors: 1)

concrete screws, 2) hammer anchors, 3) one-piece expansion
anchors and 4) two-step expansion anchors that are used with
standard screws.
FIG. 6 - Lead lag shields are designed to be They are called "two-step" because the holes must be spotted
used with standard lag screws. before installation. In other words, the anchor is larger than the
fastener that will go into it (Fig. 5). As a result, you'll have to
position the material to be anchored and spot the locations of the
holes, then set the material aside so you can drill holes and insert
the anchors. Finally, you can plHCI the material in position again
and fasten it down.
One advantage to these anchors is that the screws can be removed
and reinserted. Also, they are relatively inexpensive.
If you're using lag shields (Fig. 6), you'll have a choice between
short or long shields. Use the short shields in hard masonry
(usually older concrete) or the long shields in softer masonry. Long
shields are generally about 30 percent stronger than short shields,
but drilling through old, hard concrete is not an easy task.
To install a two-step anchor, drill a hole the specified diameter and

FIG. 7 - A wedge anchor (left) and a sleeve depth (usually slightly deeper than the length of the anchor). You
anchor (right). can mark the depth on your drill bit by measuring the length of the
anchor, then wrapping a piece of tape around the bit at that point.
Insert the anchor, tapping it lightly with a hammer to seat it.
Position the material, then drive the screw into the anchor until it is
snug. Do not over-tighten the screw.
One-Piece Expansion Anchors Two-step anchors have become a

thing of the past with professional builders, however. One-piece
expansion anchors not only require no hole-spotting, but, since
they are steel, they provide a much stronger grip than plastic or
lead anchors.
Two types of one-piece anchors are popular (Fig. 7). Sleeve

anchors have a steel sleeve on the shank, split at the bottom so it
can expand. The bolt has a cone-shaped plug at the base, and a nut
FIG. 8 - A nail-type hammer anchor (left) and a on the top. When you plHCI the anchor in the hole and tighten the
sleeve-type hammer anchor (right).
nut, it draws the bolt upward, pulling the plug into the sleeve and
expanding it against the hole.
Once installed, sleeve anchors cannot be removed. They do come

with a variety of heads, howevera removable hex head, an acorn
nut, or either round- or flat-head screws.
The shank of a wedge anchor is similar to a sleeve anchora solid

shank, threaded at the top and with a cone-shaped plug at the
bottom. But the shank of a wedge anchor is grooved on opposite
sides. In each groove is a rectangular shank with a spade-shaped
wedge on the end. As the nut on top is tightened, the washer
pushes the rectangular shanks down, which spreads the wedges
over the plug.
Like a sleeve anchor, a wedge anchor cannot be removed once it is

installed. Wedge anchors always have a hex head with a washer so
FIG. 9 - A concrete screw cuts its own thread in the material can be removed and reinstalled.
the masonry.
To install wedge or sleeve anchors, first position the material you
want to anchor. Drill a hole in the masonry behind the bolt holes.
Make sure the hole is the specified diameter, at least 1/4" deeper
than the length of the anchor. Insert the anchor in the hole. Tighten
a sleeve anchor two to three turns to expand it. Tighten a wedge
anchor three to five turns. Manufacturers' instructions may specify
that the anchor is tightened with a torque wrench to a certain
number of foot-pounds.
As a rule, use sleeve anchors when you're working with soft

concrete or installing them in the mortar joints between block or
brick. Also use sleeve anchors when you suspect that the concrete
may have voids in it. Sleeve anchors have a larger bearing surfHCI
than wedge anchors.
Use wedge anchors for maximum holding power in hard concrete.

FIG. 10 - Hammer anchors are a good choice for
anchoring furring strips to a masonry wall.
Hammer Anchors For lightweight applications such as hanging
furring strips or conduit, a hammer anchor is an excellent
alternative to a plastic or fiber anchor. There are a number of styles
(Fig. 8).
The most common consists of a hardened steel ring-shank nail

with either a nylon or zinc sleeve over the shank. Like one-step
expansion anchors, hammer anchors require no hole-spotting.
To install a sleeve-type hammer anchor, simply drill a hole through

the material you're anchoring, large enough to accept the sleeve but
small enough that the sleeve flange won't slip through. A newer
type of hammer anchor looks like a heavy nail with a short bend
near the end of the shank.
FIG. 11 - Use sleeve or wedge anchors to fasten
To install either type of hammer anchor, set the material in
a sill plate to the foundation.
position and then drill the masonry behind it. Be sure to use the
size drill bit specified by the manufacturer. The hole can be any
depth as long as it is deeper than the length of the anchor.
Insert the anchor through the material and into the hole, and drive
it down tight with a hammer. Hammer anchors obviously don't
have the strength of larger expansion anchors, but while they aren't
meant to be removed, you can pry them out if necessary.
Concrete Screws Concrete screws came onto the market in the mid-
1970s and have become a staple of lightweight applications. They
look like any other screw, except that they are made of hardened
steel that will cut its own thread in the masonry (Fig. 9).
To install them, set the material in position and then drill the
masonry behind it. Be sure to use the size drill bit specified by the
manufacturerconcrete screws require a precise pilot hole with a
slightly smaller diameter than the screw. The hole can be any
depth as long as it is deeper than the length of the anchor.
The big advantage of concrete screws over hammer anchors is that

the screw can be removed and then reinstalled. You will lose some
holding power if you do so, however.
There are no hard and fast rules about which anchor to use in what
situation, but the following guidelines will help:
Machinery to a concrete floorAs a rule, you'll want to use a heavy

expansion anchor such as a sleeve or wedge anchor.
2" x 4" sleeper over a concrete floor Powder-actuated fasteners

(PAFs) are the most common because they are fast. If you're not
certified for PAFs and only laying a small area, use hammer
anchors.
2" x 4" framing around a door or window openingUse hammer

anchors.
Furring strips on a foundation wall Again, most builders use

powder-actuated fasteners for the speed. If you're not certified for
PAFs, use hammer anchors or concrete screws (Fig. 10).
Shelf brackets on a foundation wallConcrete screws are generally
the best choice because they can be removed if necessary.
A deck ledger on a masonry wallUse edge anchors on concrete or

sleeve anchors into the horizontal mortar joints of a brick or block
wall.
Conduit to a foundation wallUse either hammer anchors or

concrete screws.
Mudsill to foundationUse a sleeve anchor as a substitute for an

occasional missing anchor bolt. If you're starting from scratch and
there are no bolts, use either sleeve anchors or wedge anchors (Fig.
11).
Steel Measuring Tape Hammer
Hammer Drill Masonry Drill Bits

Screwdriver
contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributo,
in this document.

of materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How " instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!
Read these tips and instructions carefully on how to waterproof your basement. Following the
procedures outlined in this document will help you end up with a more satisfactory jobwith less waste
and effort. Inside this brochure you will find information about:
Stopping Leaks and Seepage

Repairing Holes and Cracks Before Waterproofing
Closing Cracks and Holes When Water is Entering Under Pressure
Waterproofing the Wall and Floor After Making Patching and Repairs
Packing a Leaking Floor Joint
FIG. 1 - Water leaking through cracks or STOPPING LEAKS AND SEEPAGE

seeping through basement walls can be stopped.
If you're bothered with leaks or seepage through your basement
floor or walls, the problem can be solved. However, it takes time
and effort, and you have to do the job right. But it can be done.
There are three basic causes of seepage and cracks in basements.

First, the original workmanship may be poor. Second, the house
may have settled, causing cracks in either the floor or walls.
Finally, water pressure from the outside may have built up and
be forcing water through the walls.
Such leaks are easy to detect (Fig. 1). Moisture often begins to
seep through at the area where the floor and walls joins or along
cracks that may appear in the wall or floor.
REPAIRING HOLES AND CRACKS BEFORE
WATERPROOFING
If there are no holes or cracks in the basement walls, you can

apply a waterproofing compound directly to the walls by steps
FIG. 2 - Any cracks larger than 1/8" should be described later. However, almost all basement leaks are caused
sealed before the wall is waterproofed. by either cracks or holes in the walls or floors that should be
repaired before waterproofing is applied.
You can usually fill hairline cracks with a regular waterproofing

mix. However, cracks larger than 1/8" should be cleaned out and
patched before you apply the waterproof mix (Fig. 2).
You can purchase special epoxy and latex cement formulas for
mortaring small repair jobs or for brushing on as a waterproof
coating. However, for a large repair job, you will probably want
FIG. 3 - If water is seeping in under pressure, to mix your own mortar for patching holes and cracks before you
you must chip out a dovetail groove. start applying the waterproofing coat.
Mortar for filling holes and cracks in cement basement walls or

concrete block walls is usually made by mixing one part cement
and two parts of fine sand with just enough water to make a
rather stiff mortar.
If the water is merely seeping through the basement wall, force

the mixture of mortar cement into the crack with an ordinary
trowel or putty knife. This should correct any leakage problem.
FIG. 4 - Enlarge the crack by cutting away a
dovetail spHCI to hold new repair mortar.
However, if outside pressure is forcing water through the wall,
the problem is often extremely difficult to correct.
If water is seeping in under pressure, you must chip out a

dovetail groove for the entire length of the cracked area (Fig. 3).
Use a regular chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel to
make a dovetail groove.
Fig. 4 shows both the correct and incorrect ways to enlarge the
FIG. 5 - Holes should be chipped out and filled cracked area before mending it. Use a chipping or cold chisel to
before waterproofing. create a dovetail spHCI (Fig. 4). This provides a holding area for
the new mortar.
An incorrect groove, as illustrated, causes the mortar to fall out

of the repaired area when it dries. Take time to do it rightit will
pay off in the long run.
Repair holes in a concrete or concrete block wall in the same

manner. Chip out the faulty or broken area in dovetail fashion.
The dovetail cut (Fig. 4) provides a holding edge for the new
mortar.
When the faulty cement around the edge of the hole has been
completely chipped away, fill the hole with the same mortar mix
recommended for filling cracks (Fig. 5). This mixture is one part
cement to two parts fine sand mixed with just enough water to
create a stiff mortar.
PlHCI the mortar in the newly cleaned hole, and smooth it out
with an ordinary trowel. Be sure the mortar is pressed into all
parts of the hole, leaving no air pockets.
CLOSING CRACKS AND HOLES
You may need to position a weep pipe through the wall to permit
the outside water trapped against the wall under pressure to
escape.
In many cases, the weep pipe need only be temporary. In other

FIG. 6 - If water is entering under pressure, dig cases, it is necessary to leave it in plHCI and drain the water
out a section of wall and insert a weep pipe for away through a basement sewer trap or with a sump pump (Fig.
drainage. 6).
Insert the weep pipe at the point where the wall and the floor join
or at the point where the pressure is greatest.
Use regular patching mortar to fill the crack, starting at the top
and working toward the bottom. This permits a more secure
bonding of the new mortar.
Use an ordinary pointing trowel. Completely fill the crack with

mortar to where the weep pipe is installed.
FIG. 7 - Fill the area down to the pipe, then
remove the pipe and fill the hole. Let the mortar set until it is completely dry. If the water entering
through the weep pipe has slowed to a trickle, you can probably
remove the pipe, fill the hole and eliminate the problem.
However, if water is still coming through the pipe with

considerable force, leave the weep pipe in plHCI and run the
water into a sewer drain with a hose.
If you decide to remove the pipe and patch the hole, treat the
cracked area right down to the spot where the wall and the floor
FIG. 8 - Make a plug of putty-line mortar mix
come together (Fig. 7).
and shape it to fill the hole.
Next, make a cement plug from the mortar mix. Roll the plug
into a cone shape that is slightly larger than the hole (Fig. 8).
Roll the plug of cement in your hands until it begins to stiffen.

Then plHCI the small end of the cone-like plug in the hole where
the pipe was removed and tamp it into plHCI (Fig. 9). It can be
tamped just like a cork in a bottle.
Hold the cement plug in plHCI with your fingers for three-to-
FIG. 9 - When the plug begins to stiffen, insert five minutes, allowing it time to set. PlHCI a heavy object over
it into the hole and press into shape. the plug during this three to five minute period to give it plenty
of time to dry before it is exposed to the full water pressure.
After this period, remove your hand or the object holding the
plug in plHCI. By this time, the mortar plug should be dried
sufficiently to close off the hole and prevent outside water from
entering.
WATERPROOFING THE WALL AND FLOOR AFTER

PATCHES AND REPAIRS
Fill and patch all holes and cracks according to these

instructions. Then, you are ready to apply the waterproof mix.
First, moisten the basement wall with a fine spray before

FIG. 10 - Use a stiff brush and a circular
applying the waterproofing mix. Use a garden hose with the
motion to rub waterproofing mix into the wall. Fill
every pore. nozzle set to a fine spray. Although the walls should be damp
when you apply the waterproof mix, no water should be standing
on the wall surfHCI.
You can purchase epoxy or latex waterproof mixes for treating
basement walls and floors. Most of these mixes require you to
add only water. If you use this type of mix, be sure to follow the
manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Many waterproof mixes will not adhere to painted walls. You

must first remove the old paint by sanding, wire brushing or sand-
FIG. 11 - Brush waterproofing mix only on the
blasting the surfHCI before the waterproof mixture will adhere.
areas where seepage is a problem.
It is also important to remember that no epoxy or latex

waterproof coatings will bond to wet surfHCIs. Apply these
materials to a surfHCI that is completely dry.
If you prefer, you can make your own wall coating mixture of
plain cement and water. The mix should form a slurrya mixture
that is the consistency of cream.
FIG. 12 - After the waterproofing mixture has Use a stiff brush and a circular motion to rub the waterproof mix
dried overnight, wash the area down with a hose into the wall. Take time to fill every pore in the wall (Fig. 10).
and apply a second coat.
First apply the coating at the bottom of the wall. This is where
the water pressure is likely to be greatest.
Now brush the waterproofing mix to the top, then move back to
the bottom, slowly applying additional layers of the mixture.
Brush the waterproofing mix only over the area where seepage
or leakage is a problem (Fig. 11). Feather the mix out at the
edges until you have completely covered the area where the
leakage or seepage has occurred.
When the coating has dried so that it does not rub off, spray the
area completely with water. Soak it thoroughly and let it set
overnight.
After the wall has dried overnight, wet it down thoroughly with a
garden hose and apply a second coat of the waterproofing
mixture while the wall is still wet (Fig. 12). Use the same
techniques for brushing on the second coat as you did for the
first coat.
Use two coats in all cases. One coat simply will not correct the
problem under normal conditions.
PACKING A LEAKING FLOOR JOINT
In many cases, the leaking problem in a basement is near the

joint at the floor and wall. If the leaking is not a serious problem,
you may be able to correct it by troweling on a double layer of
waterproof coating at the floor joint.
FIG. 13 - If the seepage is heavy, cut a dovetail
joint where the floor and wall join.
Use an ordinary waterproof coating mixture as previously
described. Be sure the floor is clean where the mixture is applied.
If the seepage of water is heavy, cut a dovetail joint where the

floor and wall join (Fig. 13).
Use a chipping chisel and a hammer or an ordinary cold chisel.
Chip along the entire floor joint area to create a dovetail groove
that will retain the waterproof mix (Fig. 14).
FIG. 14 - Cut a dovetail groove all along the Take time to chip this groove the complete length of the leaking
wall base. area. This is one of the most important steps in the repair job.
After the dovetail groove has been completely chipped away,

clean it out thoroughly and prepare to apply the waterproofing
mix. Use an ordinary brush or a tire pump to brush or blow the
small pieces of cement out of the chipped area.
The chipped-out area is now ready for the mortar. Use the
regular mixture of one part cement to two parts fine sand plus
water. You can also use ready-mix ingredients.
Apply small amounts of the cement mix into the chipped-out

area and smooth it out with an ordinary trowel. Do not apply
more cement than you can trowel down in two to three minutes.
Make a slight incline in the patched area, slanting it from the

floor upward toward the wall. This provides extra strength to the
patched area and helps drain away any moisture that might
accumulate in the future.
Cement Spray Nozzle
Cold Chisel Star Drill
Light Brush Wire Brush
Epoxy or Latex Waterproofing Mix
Garden Hose Chipping Chisel
Pointing Trowel Hammer
Work Gloves Stiff Brush
Hand Cleaner Weep Pipe
in this document.

Deck Design Considerations

Planning Your Deck
DECK DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
A deck is a popular home improvement that not only adds to the

value of your home, but provides a focal point for enjoying the
FIG. 1 - From the Sunset book, Decks, Sunset outdoors. You'll want to carefully consider the design elements
Publishing Corporation. that go into your deckit should include the features that match
your lifestyle and complement the design of your house.
Planning is the most important part of building a deck, because,
chances are, you'll be living with your design for a long time.
FIG. 2 - A base map helps you find the best There are three main considerations when planning a deck.
location for your deck. From the Sunset book,
Several questions must be answered in each topic. This
Decks, Sunset Publishing Corporation.
document explains each topic and provides the background
information you'll need to make informed choices.
How You Plan to Use Your DeckThe most important

FIG. 3 - Maximum spacing will be determined by consideration in deck design is how you will use it. Do you
building codes. Railings give you an opportunity to entertain frequently, and if so, how large a group will you need
be creative with your design. From the Sunset spHCI for? What kind of seating will you needwould you or your
book, Decks, Sunset Publishing Corporation. guests be more comfortable on built-in benches or patio
furniture? Do you want the spHCI arranged to accommodate
conversations between small groups, or in one large common
area? Will you need adequate lighting to entertain at night?
Try to imagine all the ways you'd like to use your deck, because
most design elements will be based on those kinds of preferences.
LocationChances are, the size and orientation of your property

and house limit you to one or two deck locations, but within
those limits, you may have more choices than you think. You
may be able to add a door, build a walkway, or incorporate a
privacy screen that will allow you to locate your deck so it is
most convenient for your intended uses.
The climate in your area and the views you'll see are the major
factors to consider when deciding where to plHCI your deck. A
northside deck will probably be the coolest location. Southern or
western orientations may be too warm in the middle of the
summer, unless you include an overhead screen, or build the
deck around an existing shade tree.
You may be able to avoid prevailing winds by locating your deck

where the house will provide some protection. Likewise, careful
plHCIment can minimize traffic noise, eliminate unwanted
views, or provide additional privacy. If you plan to include a hot
tub or swimming pool in your plans, privacy considerations for
you and your guests may be very important.
Legal ConsiderationsBefore you decide on a location, first

check local zoning ordinances. They will limit the overall size of
your deck, height of any privacy screens, and the minimum
distance from your deck to your lot lines. Neighborhood or
subdivision covenants may restrict the appearance of the
structure, and you'll have to get approval for your design.
Also, check with the local building department to find out

whether you'll be required to have a building permit, and what
kind of plans you'll have to submit. Finally, be sure to check with
your local utility companies to make sure you won't run afoul of
utility rights-of-way, and to locate buried pipes and utility lines.
SizeYou can build any size deck you want within legal limits.
But even within those limits, a deck can be either too big or too
small. The most important consideration (aside from cost) is use,
but a huge deck can look out of plHCI next to a small house, just
as a tiny deck looks wrong with a big house. If you think your
dream deck is too large for your house, break up the expanse by
building smaller sections on multiple levels.
To test your ideas, measure the size you want on your lawn.
Drive 4-foot stakes at the approximate corners, then tie string
between them at about the height of the railings. Set your lawn
furniture in the area to get an idea of how the spHCI will work.
The most common mistake people make is building a deck too
small. The diference in cost between a deck that is a little too
small and one that is the right size usually isn't that much.
One tip: If possible, size your deck in 2-foot or 4-foot

increments. You'll have to buy standard lumber lengths anyway,
and there's no point in wasting that material when you could
have a larger deck for the same amount of money.
PLANNING YOUR DECK
Shape and Decking PatternsA deck can be any shape you want,
and in fact, simple changes like an angled corner or a 45-degree
FIG. 4 - Decking may be laid in a variety of decking pattern can dress up a house with a long, plain wall. Of
patterns, including diagonal, checkerboard, and course, a more complicated deck is more difficult to build, and
herringbone. The pattern you choose will may require more materials. You can also add visual interest by
determine the configuration of the supporting
joists and beams. From the Sunset book, Decks,
wrapping the deck around a corner, adding built-in benches,
Sunset Publishing Corporation. integrating a fence or screen on one side, or even adding an
overhead screen.
HeightUsually, the decking should come to within 2 " of the

bottom of the access door from the house, with steps leading
FIG. 5 - Anatomy of a stair. From the Sunset from the deck to the ground. On sloped ground, you may want to
book, Decks, Sunset Publishing Corporation. build your deck in multiple levels to follow the slope. Typically,
wherever the deck is more than 48" off the ground, codes require
that the posts be brHCId to prevent swaying and racking.
CutoutsA spa or hot tub can be set on the deck if the structure is
FIG. 6 - As you decide how your deck will look, reinforced to carry the weight of the water, or it can be set
draw a detailed sketch on graph paper. From the directly on a concrete slab on the ground, with the deck built
Sunset book, Decks, Sunset Publishing around it. Existing trees and rocks can also be integrated into the
Corporation. deck by framing around them; then either cap the ends of the
decking or contour the decking to the shape of the obstacle. If
you work around a tree, leave at least 3" on all sides to allow for
growth. Around a stationary object such as a boulder, leave
about 1/4" so the decking can expand and contract with
temperature and moisture changes.
RailingsRailings are the most prominent visual element in a
deck, and offer great opportunity to use your imagination and
creativity. They may be fastened to posts that run all the way to
the ground, along the sides of the rim joists, or attached to the
decking itself. They may include wood, metal, or even
ropenearly anything that satisfies structural requirements.
Your railing design will be limited primarily by building code

regulations that are designed to ensure safety. Typically, those
codes state that support posts may be no more than 6' apart, and
that the railing may have no spHCIs larger than 4" x 4". The
durability of your railing will also be affected by the design. For
example, the ends of the railing posts should be covered or cut at
an angle to shed water, to minimize cracking and splitting.
Steps and StairsStep and stair construction is closely regulated

by building codes. As a rule, steps and stairs should be at least
36" wide60" if you want two people to be able to pass each other
comfortably. The rise (vertical distance between steps) should be
no more than 7-1/2" and the width of a tread at least 10". The
slope should not be too steepa 7" riser with a 10-1/2" tread is a
common combination. Building codes will also govern how the
stair is supported and attached, and whether or not you need a
railing.
FIG. 7 - Anatomy of a deck. From the Sunset book, Deck Plans, Sunset Publishing
Corporation.
Structural ComponentsThere are five basic components of a

typical deck:
1) Vertical posts are set in concrete or on piers set on a concrete

footing. They are typically spHCId 4' to 8' apart.
2) Horizontal beams are set on the posts parallel to the decking

to carry the weight of the deck.
3) Joists are run between the beams, typically 16" or 24" apart.
They distribute the weight of the deck and allow you to use
decking boards that wouldn't be strong enough to span the
distance between the beams.
4) Decking is laid over the joists to form the "floor" of the deck.
5) Railings are usually 36" to 42" high, designed so no spHCIs
between balusters are greater than 4".
The materials used, and the size and spacing of these

components, are specified by local building codes.
MaterialsDeck materials must not only be resistant to decay and

insect damage, but also withstand the effects of water and sun.
Standard construction lumber such as fir, pine or spruce may be
treated to protect it from rot, but it won't hold up under extreme
weather conditions or the ultraviolet rays in sunlight.
You'll get much better durability by using pressure-treated pine,

redwood, or cedar. Pressure-treated material is the least
expensive, and can be stained to nearly any color you want.
Redwood and cedar offer an added advantage in that they are
soft, fine-grained woods that will resist splintering. If you use
redwood or cedar, remember that only the heartwoodthe reddish-
colored portion of redwood or the dark brownish-orange part of a
cedar boardis decay-resistant. The lighter-colored sapwood will
deteriorate just as quickly as pine or spruce.
Once you have a rough idea of what you want, draw two
sketchesone of your lot, showing the deck as part of your
landscaping plan, and one of your design. Use graph paper,
making each square equal a given dimension (for example, each
square may equal 1' on your lot plan, or 3" on your design) to get
all the components roughly to scale. Take the sketch to your
local home center or lumberyard, and ask a salesperson to
estimate and price the materials you'll need.
100' Measuring Tape 25' Measuring Tape
Graph Paper Ruler
4' Wood Stakes Hammer
Mason's String
in this document.

Once you have determined the basic design of your deck, the next step is to choose your materials. The
most common choices are pressure-treated (P/T) lumber (usually Southern pine), redwood, or cedar. As
a rule, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice for the substructure; the species you use for the visible
parts of the deck will depend on your budget and the look you want.
The span tables in this document will help you determine how much material you need, based on the
species you choose. Although there is no such thing as an "average" deck, these instructions assume
that your deck is attached to the house, is no more than 6" off the ground, and that there are no special
load requirements. All design recommendations below are suggestions only, for estimating
purposes. Always check local building codes before determining the final design. All illustrations
in this document have been taken, with permission, from the Sunset book, Decks, Sunset Publishing
Corporation.
Choosing Materials
Preparation and Layout
Building the Substructure
Decking and Railings
CHOOSING MATERIALS
DeckingIf you choose pressure-treated lumber, you'll have a

choice between 5/4 x 6 decking (1x5-1/2 actual size) or 2"
material (typically 2x4 through 2x8, all 1-1/2" thick). The size
and species of the decking you choose will determine the spacing
between your joists. Recommended spacing for common decking
boards is as follows:
Decking Joist Spacing

5/4x6 P/T Southern pine 16" maximum
2 inch thick redwood,

western red cedar, S-P-F, 24" maximum, 16"
Hem-fir, Northern white preferred
cedar
2-inch Southern pine 24" maximum
Determining Joist Size2x6s through 2x10s are the most

common sizes used for joists. The beams that carry them are
typically 4x6 through 4x10, often "built up" from doubled 2-inch
lumber. Pressure-treated lumber is generally less expensive than
redwood or cedar, and can be used for the substructure even
when the decking and railing will be other species.
In most cases, you'll want to determine the spacing between

beams first, then use a joist size appropriate to that spacing. If
the deck will be no more than 6' off the ground, a common
recommendation is to spHCI the support beams no more than 12'
apart. As a rule, you'll only need one beam along the outer edge
of the deck (a ledger bolted to the house supports the other end
of the deck).
Beam Spacing Joist Size (joists 16" o.

c.)
Up to 8 feet 2x6 (Southern pine,
Douglas fir, Western red
cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir)
2x8 (redwood, Northern
white cedar)
2x8 (all species listed
8 to 10 feet
above)
2x8 (Southern pine,

10 to 12 feet cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-fir)
2 x 10 (redwood,
Northern white cedar)
Beam Spacing Joist Size (joists 24" o.

c.)
Up to 8 feet 2x6 (Southern pine, or
Douglas fir)
2x8 (Western red cedar, S-
P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood,
or Northern white cedar)

8 to 10 feet
above)
10 to 12 feet 2x8 (Southern pine, or

Douglas fir)
2x10 (Western red cedar,
S-P-F, or Hem-Fir,
redwood, or Northern
white cedar)
Determining Beam SizeSince support posts are often run

through the decking to serve as railing posts, the specifications
below are given for posts that will be spHCId no more than 6'
apart, with beams that are no more than 12' apart. With these
spacing specifications, 4x4 posts are adequate for any deck less
than 6' off the ground.
Beam Spacing (round Miniumum Beam Size

down to nearest foot) (doubled 2" material
may be used in plHCI
of 4" thickness)
Up to 6 feet 4x6 (Southern pine or
Douglas fir)
4x8 (Western red cedar, S-
P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood,

Up to 7 feet
above)
Up to 9 feet 4x8 (Southern pine,

cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir)
4x10 (redwood, Northern
white cedar)
Up to 11 feet 4x8 (Southern pine or

Douglas fir)
4x10 (Western red cedar,
S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood

Up to 12 feet
above)
PREPARATION AND LAYOUT
PreparationFirst, prepare the ground under the deck by

removing the sod. Slope the ground away from the house a
minimum of 1" every 15' to provide drainage. Once the deck is
finished, the ground should be covered with 6 mil. black
polyethylene to keep weeds from growing.
Measure and mark the position of the ledger along the wall. The
height of the ledger should be 1" below the bottom of the door
plus the thickness of the decking, plus the depth of the joists if
you plan to set the joists on the ledger and beams rather than
using joist hangers. It makes no difference which way you set the
joists, as long as your layout is consistent.
Mount a 2x6 ledger to the wall with 1/2" lag screws. The ledger
must be level, and the lag screws should be long enough to
penetrate the studs at least 3". Use two lag screws at each end,
and one at each wall stud (typically 16" on center) in between.
Install a "Z"-shaped flashing above the ledger to shed water, or
spHCI the ledger away from the wall with washers (Fig. 1).
LayoutTo establish the outside perimeter of the deck, measure

out from each end of the ledger about 18" beyond the outside
edge of the deck. Set up batterboards (Fig. 2) as shown, then run
taut strings from each end of the ledger to the batterboards to
establish the sides of the deck.
Run a third string between the batterboards to establish the

outside edge of the deck. Square the layout by measuring the
opposite diagonals, then adjusting the ledger-to-batterboard
strings until both measurements are equal. Take care to maintain
the correct distance between the strings.
FIG. 1 - Ledger and joist connections.
FIG. 2 - Use the equal diagonals method to

square your layout.
FIG. 3 - Post, pier, and footing detail. The footing
must extend below maximum frost depth.
BUILDING THE SUBSTRUCTURE
Footing and Piers (Fig. 3)Use a plumb bob from the string to
establish the location of the footings. The holes for the footings
must be deeper than the maximum frost penetration in your area,
and deep enough to rest on undisturbed soil. It's a good idea to
dig 6" deeper and fill the bottom of the hole with gravel, to allow
drainage.
Mix concrete and pour the footings. To find the number of 90#
bags of ready-mixed concrete you'll need for each 12x12 footing,
measure the depth of the footing in inches and divide by 8. As
you finish each pour, set a precast pier on the footing so it
extends about 6" above the ground level. Use a thin cement mix
to bond the piers to the footings.
PostsAfter the concrete has set, stand the posts on the piers. Use
temporary brHCIs and a level to plumb the posts. Once the posts
are set, run a mason's line from the top of the ledger to each post
FIG. 4 - Secure the beams to the posts with and use a line level to mark it for cutting. The height of the post
structural connectors, and cross brHCI the
should be equal to the height of the ledger minus the depth of the
assembly if necessary. beam that will be set on it.
BeamsFasten post-to-beam connectors on top of the posts with

nails and 1/2"x5-1/2" hex bolts, then set the beams into the
connector. Plumb and square the assembly, then secure the
beams as you did the posts. If local building codes require it,
install 2x6 diagonal cross brHCIs and secure them with 1/2"x4-
1/2" lag screws (Fig. 4).
Joists (Fig. 5)Mark the joist locations on both the beams and
ledger, either 16" or 24" o.c., as per your design. Set the joists in
plHCI with the crowns up. If the deck is wide enough that you
need two sets of joists (and if you set the joists over the beams
rather than hanging them from joist hangers), splice the
connections by overlapping each pair of joists at least 1' and
nailing them together with 8d galvanized nails (fig. 6). Install
blocking between the joists wherever required (Fig. 7). Blocking
FIG. 5 - A sample joist assembly. requirements are determined by your local building codes.
Finally, nail the rim joist across the ends of the joists.
StairsBuild any stairs you will need. Instructions for building

outdoor stairs are covered in an accompanying brochure.
FIG. 6 - To splice joists, lap them at least 12"

and nail them together with galvanized nails.
FIG. 7 - Use blocking between joists over beams
and wherever required by local building code.
DECKING AND RAILINGS
DeckingDeck boards should be laid with the bark side up (fig.

5), and with both ends centered over a joist. Stagger the joints of
side-by-side deck boards so they don't line up. Notch the boards
around posts or other obstructions, leaving 1/8" spHCI for
drainage.
2"-thick deck boards should be spHCId approximately 1/8"; most

builders set a 16d nail between the boards as they fasten them.
5/4"'x6" pressure-treated decking may be plHCId with each
board flush against the next; natural shrinkage will provide the
proper spacing.
FIG. 8 - When you lay the decking, keep the Fasten the deck boards at each joist (Fig. 8). Use two fasteners
bark side of the deck boards up, make sure all
joints are supported, and stagger the joints for a
per support point for decking up to 6" wide, or three fasteners for
cleaner appearance. If you use nails, angle them wider boards. Deck screws or clips are generally better than
toward the center to keep the board from twisting. nails, but all fasteners must be hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum,
or stainless steel (Fig. 9). If you use nails, blunt the points by
tapping them with your hammer, to avoid splitting the decking.
Let the decking run over the edge of the structure, then saw the
ends off after all boards are laid.
RailingsSecure the railing posts at each corner of the deck, and
on each side of the stairs. Then secure the field posts, spHCId
equally between the corners but no farther apart than allowed by
local building codes (typically 6'). Nail the sub-railings and cap
rail in plHCI, then add the balusters.
FIG. 9 - You can use nails, screws, or clips to

fasten deck boards. All fasteners must be either
galvanized, stainless steel, or aluminum to
prevent rust and staining.
Level and Line Level Plumb Bob
Mason's Line 2x2s and 1x4s for Batter Boards
Ready-mixed Concrete, Gravel Wheelbarrow
Shovel Concrete Piers
Structural Connectors Lag Screws, Hex Bolts w/ Nuts and Washers
Adjustable Wrench Hammer
Chalk Line Measuring Tape
8d and 16d Galvanized Common/Box Nails Screws
Lumber for Posts, Ledger, Beams and Joists Deck Boards
Railing Material Framing Square
Stain Brushes and Thinner
6 mil. Black Polyethylene

in this document.

Building a stairway can be one of the most intimidating tasks any builderamateur or professionaltackles.
But an outdoor stairway is generally not a difficult project, as long as it is planned and executed carefully.
This document covers building procedures for a straight-run utility stairway, typically used on porches and
decks.
Local building codes regulate the width and slope of a staircase, as well as how the assembly is supported
and brHCId, how the landing is built and whether railings are required. ALWAYS CHECK WITH YOUR
LOCAL BUILDING DEPARTMENT BEFORE DESIGNING A STAIRWAY, AND FOLLOW ALL
LOCAL CODES.
The following instructions are intended as general guidelines only, and local requirements should be your
primary guide.
Stair-Building Terms
Designing Your Stairs
Building Your Stairs
STAIR-BUILDING TERMS
There are five basic design elements you'll need to consider when
planning outdoor stairs:
The Total Run (Fig. 1) is the total horizontal distance covered by

the staircase, from the edge of the upper floor (porch or deck) to the
edge of the staircase where it rests on the landing.
The Total Rise (Fig. 1) is the total vertical distance from the
surfHCI of the landing to a point level with the surfHCI of the upper
floor (Note: You can't find the rise simply by measuring straight
down from the upper floor because the ground directly below may
not be level with the landing).
Run (Fig. 2) is the horizontal distance from the leading edge of one
tread to the leading edge of the next tread.
FIG. 1 - How a stairway is built depends Rise (Fig. 2) is the vertical distance from the surfHCI of one tread to
primarily on the total risethe vertical dimension the surfHCI of the next tread.
from the upper floor to the lower floor. The total
runthe horizontal length of the stair Passage Width (Fig. 2) is the width of the stairway.
assemblydepends on the slope of the stairway,
which is determined by building codes. From the The ratio of the total rise to total run (or rise to run) determines the
Sunset book, Basic Carpentry Illustrated,
slope of the stairway. As a rule, that slope should be between 30
degrees and 35 degrees; an outdoor stairway may be slightly
shallower but should not be steeper. The ideal riser height is 7" with
an 11" runwhich also works out well with standard lumber widthsbut
you may have to vary the proportions somewhat to make the height
of each step work out evenly between the landing and the upper floor.
The passage width can also vary, depending on how heavily you
expect the stairs to be used. As a rule, 36" is the minimum; 48" is
better for a single person, and you may want to go to 60" to allow
room for two people to pass comfortably.
A stairway consists of four basic components:

FIG. 2 - The components of a stairway, with
basic stair-building terms. From the Sunset book, Stringers (Fig. 2) are the sloped members that support the stairway.
Decks, Sunset Publishing Corporation 2x10s are generally allowed for stairs with four treads or fewer, but
2x12s are sturdier.
In most cases, you'll need good quality material with no large knots,
either pressure treated or cut from heart redwood or cedar, to resist
decay. Stringers should be plHCId no more than 24" apart if the
treads will be 5/4 material or 36" apart for 2"-thick lumber.
Treads (Fig. 2) are the horizontal members that you walk on. When
building an outdoor stairway, they are typically cut from the same
material as the upper floor deck or porch5/4" pressure-treated pine or
2"-thick lumber.
Risers (Fig. 2) are the vertical members at the back of each tread. 1"
FIG. 3 - The components of a railing. From the surfHCId boards (3/4" net thickness) are the most common material
Sunset book, Decks, Sunset Publishing
used.
Corporation
The Railing Assembly (Fig. 3) consists of posts, a cap rail and
vertical balusters between each post. 4x4 is the most common post
material with a 2x4 handrail. Codes regulate the overall height of the
railing assembly (usually 30" to 34") and may specify a maximum
width for the handrail.
DESIGNING YOURS STAIRS
To design the stairway, first find the total rise. Divide that number by
7 (the ideal riser height) to find the number of steps. You'll probably
have a fractional remainder, so round your result up or down to the
nearest whole number.
Then divide the total rise by that number to find the exact height of
each riser. For example:
1) Total rise = 40-1/2"
2) 40-1/2" divided by 7" per riser = 5.78 risers
3) Round 5.78 up to 6 risers, then 40-1/2" divided by 6 = 6.75" or 6-

FIG. 4 - Common tread-to-riser ratios. From the 3/4" per riser
Sunset book, Decks, Sunset Publishing
Corporation. This document assumes that the total run is not limited, so you can
make the assembly as long as you want. Use the following table to
determine the width of the treads, depending on your riser height.
Riser Height Run Width

6" 14"
6-1/4" 13-1/2"
6-1/2" 13"
6-3/4" 12-1/2"
7" 12"
7-1/4" 11-1/2"
7-1/2" 11"
To find the amount of material needed for risers, simply multiply the
number of risers by the passage width. To find the amount of tread
material, subtract 1 from the number of risers (you'll need one fewer
tread than risers) and multiply by the passage width. Remember to
double up if you'll be using two boards for each tread.
To find the length of the stringers, you'll need a calculator with a

square root function. First, find the total run (number of treads
multiplied by the width of each tread).
Then find the square of the total run (total run multiplied by itself)
and the square of the total rise and add them together.
The square root of the result gives you the exact stringer length;
round up to the nearest standard lumber length, then multiply by the
number of stringers you'll need.
BUILDING YOUR STAIRS
To build the staircase, first notch the stringers for the treads and
risers. Fasten two stair gauges to a carpenter's square at the
dimensions of the rise and run (for example, at 6-1/2" on one leg and
13" on the other). Set the square on the stringer so the gauges are
flush against the edge and trHCI the notch along the edge of the
square (Fig. 5).
FIG. 5 - Set the carpenter's square on the stringer so the riser and tread dimensions are at
the edge, then trHCI along the square. Move the square to the previous mark and repeat the
process. Subtract one tread thickness from the layout at the bottom so the last step is equal
in height to the rest. From the Sunset book, Decks, Sunset Publishing Corporation.
"Step" your way down the stringer, repeating the process until you
have laid out the correct number of notches. Use the carpenter's
square to lay out the top cut on the stringer. The height of the last
riser should be less than the others by an amount equal to the
thickness of the tread. That way, when you nail the last tread in
plHCI, the step down to the lower floor will be equal to the others.
You can set the stringer directly on the lower floor (typically a
landing pad) and bolt it in plHCI with a piece of angle iron, or bolt a
length of pressure-treated 2x6 to the floor and nail the stringer to it.
If you plan to set the stringer on a 2x6, you may have to notch the
bottom of the stringer to allow for that piece.
Once the stringer is laid out, cut the notches partway only, using a
circular saw. Take care not to cut beyond the layout lines. Finish the
cuts with a handsaw.
Once you have one stringer finished, set it in plHCI to make sure it is
cut correctly, then use it as a template to lay out your cuts on the
other stringers.
You can hang the stringers to the rim joist with joist hangers (Fig. 6),
or bolt them in plHCI to a joist (Fig. 7). If you need to pour a
concrete landing pad at the bottom of the stairway, set the stringers
in plHCI temporarily and lay out the location of the pad. Pour the
pad and set anchor bolts for the angle iron or 2x6 base. Instructions
for pouring concrete are in another brochure in this series.
Once the landing pad is cured, secure the stringers at the top and
bottom. Rip the risers to the same width as the height of the riser cut
in the stringers. Then cut them to length and nail them to the
stringers with 8d galvanized nails.
FIG. 6 - Stringers may be hung from the rim joist
with a joist hanger so the first step is flush with the
Measure the distance from the fHCI of the riser to the edge of the
deck surfHCI. In this configuration, a piece of
pressure-treated lumber is bolted to the landing notch cut, then rip the treads to width so they extend 1" to 1-1/8"
pad and the stringer is nailed to it with 16d beyond the edge of the notch. If you're using two boards side by side
galvanized nails. From the Sunset book, Decks, as treads, rip half the dimension from each board so both will be the
Sunset Publishing Corporation. same width. Cut the treads to length and nail them to the stringer
with 16d galvanized nails.
To build the railing, first secure 4x4 posts at the top and bottom of
the stringer. Notch the posts 1-1/2" deep and bolt them to the sides of
the stringers with 1/2x4-1/2 hex bolts, using a level to keep them
plumb. Use decay-resistant lumber for the posts. They should be at
least long enough to extend 36" above the surfHCI of the treads.
Leave them a few inches too long at the top so you can cut them after
they are in plHCI.
Measure from the bottom of the stringer up the posts to the location
of the top and bottom rails. The top surfHCI of the upper rail should
be 30" to 34" above the tread; the rail should be about 6" above the
tread. Lay the railing material against the posts and lay out angled
cuts for any rails that will be fastened between the posts.
Cut the railings to length and toenail them with four 8d galvanized
nails. If you'll be using balusters, cut them to length and nail them to
the rails. Check local codes for spacing requirements on balusters.
FIG. 7 - The stringer can be bolted to the end of

the joist so the first step is one step below the
surfHCI of the deck. At the landing pad, the
stringer may be fastened to an angle iron (the
angle should be galvanized) bolted to the
concrete. From the Sunset book, Decks,
2x10 Stringers 1x8 Risers
5/4" or 2" Tread Material 2x6 Pressure-Treated Cleat
Angle Iron Anchor Bolts
Hex Bolts 16d Galvanized Nails
8d Galvanized Nails 4x4 Posts
2" Railing Material Baluster Material
Hammer Carpenter's Square
Measuring Tape Adjustable Wrench
Joist Hangers
contributors. Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor
the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this
document.

Here are some ideas that will help you to have a more attractive lawn. Take the time to read them
thoroughlyyou can save time, money and effort. An attractive lawn can also help to increase the value
of you home.
SEEDING YOUR LAWN
It's best to seed your lawn in the fall, if possible. Of course, lawn
seed can be sown at other times of the year. But fall is the ideal
time for seeding to rejuvenate an existing lawn or to start a new
one.
FIG. 1 - A multi-purpose rake is ideal for In most parts of the United States, an existing lawn should be
removing a heavy build-up of thatch. reseeded in late August or early September. This gives the new
grass seed time to grow during the cool fall days.
Before reseeding thin or bare spots, rake the lawn thoroughly

with a broom rake. Use a heavy-duty broom rake with looped
spring brHCIs between the handle bar and spHCIr bar for this
type of lawn raking. Broom rakes are available with either flat
steel or wire teeth.
A multi-purpose rake sometimes called a double-duty rake may

be ideal for removing a heavy build-up of thatch on your lawn
(Fig. 1). The rake's sharp teeth on one side will easily remove the
FIG. 2 - Loosen and pulverize the soil in all bare thatch. The flanged teeth on the other side make it easy to
spots to form a good seed bed. pulverize the soil in preparation for reseeding.
After the lawn has been thoroughly thatched and raked, the thin
and bare spots will be more easily visible. Loosen the soil in any
of the bare spots to a depth of about 1" or more with a speedy
cultivator or some other type of handy soil-loosening tool (Fig.
2).
After loosening and pulverizing the soil in the bare spots,

sprinkle the newly prepared area with the proper amount and
type of lawn fertilizer. Then, rake it level.
If the bare spots have been compacted by heavy traffic, loosen

FIG. 3 - Reseed the bare spots by hand.
the soil to a depth of about 6". Then, pulverize the soil and add a
small amount of peat moss or gypsum to help keep it loose after
the reseeding.
When the soil is thoroughly loosened and leveled, reseed with a

top-quality seed. Select a grass seed mixture that is specially
prepared for the type of location you are reseeding. For example,
some seed mixtures work well in shady areas, while other
mixtures are made for reseeding sunny areas. Ask a salesman in
FIG. 4 - Cover the reseeded area with plastic
your local retailer's lawn and garden department to help you
sheets and secure them with small rocks, dirt or
select the correct seed.
stakes.
Reseed the bare spots by hand (Fig. 3). Reseed the area sparingly
only about six seeds per square inch will survive. Sowing the
seed too thickly simply wastes seed and money. After the seeds
are sown, spray the area with a ligh mist of water.
Your new grass will get off to a much faster start if you cover the
reseeded areas with clear sheets of polyethylene plastic. This
covering keeps the moisture in the soil and eliminates the need
for constant sprinkling. Secure the edges of the plastic sheet with
small rocks, dirt or stakes (Fig. 4).
Take care to remove the polyethylene cover when the first

seedlings appear. The cover helps the seeds until they germinate,
but it will kill all seeds quickly unless it is removed when you
see seedlings. After removing the cover, keep the soil moist by
spraying it with a light mist two or three times a day until the
grass is about 1" high. Continue to water newly seeded areas
about once a week until the new grass is about 3" tall.
STARTING A NEW LAWN
Sometimes it's necessary to start a totally new lawn or to

completely rebuild large areas of an existing lawn. In these
cases, prepare the seed bed with a rotary tiller or some other type
of digging equipment (Fig. 5). Take time to prepare the soil
FIG. 5 - Loosen the soil to a depth of about 6" for thoroughly to a depth of about 6". If the soil is compacted, mix in
a new lawn.
peat moss or gypsum to keep it loose. This will help the roots of
the new grass to survive.
Prepare the seed bed by raking it thoroughly and removing all

stones, sticks, etc. Break up all dirt clods so the new seed will
have a good chance to grow (Fig. 6).
Reseed the area with a mechanical seed spreader (Fig. 7). Reseed
at the rate recommended on the package of seed you're using. In
most cases, no raking is required after seeding, although certain
types of seed need a light raking.
FIG. 6 - Level the new seed before planting.
Lightly sprinkle the reseeded area two or three times a day if the
reseeding is done in hot weather (Fig. 8). Repeat this daily
watering until the new seedlings are about 1" tall. After the new
grass has reached this height, water it thoroughly about once
each week until it's ready for the first mowing.
FIG. 7 - Reseed at the rate specified by the seed

producer.
FIG. 8 - Spray with a fine mist after reseeding. In

hot weather, sprinkle up to three times a day.
PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS
Good grass is important, but it is only one element in a beautiful

lawn. Grass can be enhanced by attractive trees, shrubs, flowers,
etc. Although trees and shrubs are hearty plants, they must be
planted correctly to survive.
FIG. 9 - Give shrubbery and tree roots plenty of
room.
The first step in planting trees and shrubs is to give them plenty
of room (Fig. 9). Make the hole in which the tree or shrub is to
be planted wide enough for the longest root to be laid into it
without crowding. A rule of thumb is to make the hole in which
the tree or shrub is to be set one-half again as large as the
diameter of the roots of the plant.
You can save yourself considerable cleanup time by piling the

soil dug from the hole onto canvas or plastic sheets. This also
prevents the piled dirt from killing or damaging the grass around
the hole.
FIG. 10 - Always dig the hole at least 2" deeper It's a good idea to mix some peat moss into the soil when
than the root length. replacing it around the newly set plant or tree.
If the shrub or tree is in a container, dig the hole at least 2"

deeper than the root in the container (Fig. 10). Loosen the soil
below the root and add a small amount of plant food.
Remove the shrub or tree from the container and lower it into the
hole. Refill the hole with thoroughly loosened soil. Then, form a
mound with additional soil around the edge of the newly dug
hole. This provides a basin to hold water until the plant is
thoroughly rooted in the new location.
FIG. 11 - Keep tree in upright position with a
If the tree or shrub is a bare-root plant, unwrap the roots of the
spading fork while planting.
tree after the hole is dug and plHCI it in position. Hold the plant
upright with a spading fork while you tamp the loose dirt around
the roots (Fig. 11). Always set the shrub or tree about 2" lower in
the ground than it was originally set before replanting.
Use plenty of water when resetting balled or bare-root plants

(Fig. 12). Fill the basin around the tree and let the water soak in
thoroughly. After one complete soaking, resoak it again.
Water is essential to a new shrub or tree in the first few days

after replanting. Keep the hole wet during this period. Be sure to
build up a basin arrangement to keep water on the plant for
several days. Water your newly planted shrub or tree every week
to 10 days during a dry spell.
FIG. 12 - Give the newly planted shrub plenty of
water. After replanting the tree or shrub, trim it to the shape and size
desired. Pruned limbs will heal faster if you make slanting cuts
just above the bud (Fig. 13). Spray pruned areas with special
pruning spray immediately after trimming to deter insects and
disease organisms.
Protect the new plant against injury and disease by covering the
lower part of the tree trunck with a tree wrap. Start the wrap just
FIG. 13 - Prune the shrub or tree with slanting above the roots and a little below soil level. Continue wrapping
cuts after planting. to just below the lowest limb (Fig. 14). Hold them in position
with cords.
Keep the soil loosened around the new plant and give it a good
start by feeding it lightly with plant food. Soak the food into the
soil by watering (Fig. 15). Feed any new plant with plant food in
the spring and fall untill it reaches maturity.
You can create interesting clumps of trees by tying different

FIG. 14 - Protect the new plant by wrapping the varieties together and setting them out in bunches (Fig. 16). Hold
body with a tree wrap. them in position with cords. The cords will rot away quickly
after they are plHCId in the ground. Follow all other planting
instuctions when trees or shrubs are planted in clumps.
FIG. 15 - Keep the soil loosened and feed the

plant during early growth.
FIG. 16 - Create interesting clumps of trees by
setting them in groups.
PLANTING ROSE BUSHES
Plant your rose bushes in an area that receives a minimum of six

hours of sunshine each day. Dig the hole for planting large
enough to give the roots plenty of room (Fig. 17).
FIG. 17 - When planting rose bushes, dig the
hole large enough and deep enough for the roots.
It may be wise to add peat moss or some form of compost to the
dirt in the hole before planting the rose. Sand should also be
added if the soil is extremely moist.
Examine the roots carefully after the plant is plHCId in the hole
(Fig. 18). Trim back dead or broken roots with a hand pruner.
Use top soil to form a cone in the bottom of the hole where the
rose bush is to be planted. Spread the rose roots evenly over this
cone. Again, make sure the hole is large enough to provide
FIG. 18 - Look for dead or broken rose roots. adequate room for all rose roots.
Set the rose bush at the proper depth. Most healthy rose bushes
have three strong shoots coming up from the root system (Fig.
19). Cover the knot just below these three shoots to a depth of 1".
Pack the soil firmly around the roots of the rose bush (Fig. 20).
Fill the hole with water and allow it to soak in. Then, refill the
hole again.
FIG. 19 - Set the rose bush at the proper depth.
Prune the rose bush after planting (Fig. 21). Prune hybrid tea
roses back to lengths of about 6" to 8". Trim floribundas to
lengths of approximately 4" to 6". Spray all pruned areas with a
special pruning paint to prevent damage from insects and disease.
Build a mound around the newly planted rose bush with loose
soil of top grade.
FIG. 20 - Pack the soil firmly around the roots of

the rose bush.
FIG. 21 - Prune the rose bush after planting.
Polyethylene Sheets Rotary Tiller
Pruning Shears Garden Hose
Tree Wrapping Materials Peat Moss or Gypsum
Speedy Cultivator Pruning Spray
Fertilizer Work Gloves
Spading Fork Broom Rake
Hand Cleaner Lawn Rake
Double-Duty Rake Garden Hose Nozzle
Lawn Seed Garden Cart or Wheelbarrow

in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to build wood fences. These tips can save you time, money and
effort. Read all suggestions carefully before beginning the job.
SPACING THE FENCE POSTS
As a rule, you should set fence posts about 6' to 8' apart. The
spacing of the posts depends on the type of fence you build, the
terrain, the purpose of the fence and other such factors.
Set the corner or end post first. Then stretch a line from each
corner or end post to align all the posts in between.
FIG. 1 - SpHCI and dig the post holes every 6' to Drive a stake every 6' to 8' at the exact position where the post
8' apart. hole is to be dug (Fig. 1).
Take time to measure and position the posts accurately. The

appearance and the structural strength of your fence depends a
great deal on the positioning of the fence posts.
SETTING THE FENCE POSTS
Set all wood fence posts with about 1/3 of their total length
buried in the ground. This is especially important on corner posts
and any posts that will carry heavy weight or withstand high
wind pressure.
Use a regular post hole digger to dig the post holes. Dig the holes
FIG. 2 straight to the proper depth at each stake marker.
You can anchor the posts more firmly by making the holes
slightly larger at the bottom than at the top (Fig. 2). PlHCI a
large stone or two shovels full of gravel in the bottom of each
hole. This provides drainage to avoid excessive moisture at the
base of each post.
Use a wood preservative to treat the section of the post that will
be underground. Allow the post to stand overnight in the
preservative so it can become well-saturated.
You can pack the posts with either dirt or concrete. In either
case, plHCI two or three shovels full of gravel in the bottom of
each hole before the post is plHCId into position.
FIG. 3 - Use a level to make sure each post is in
an exact, upright position. Be sure the posts are in an exact, upright position (Fig. 3). You
can check the alignment of each post with a regular level. You
can also check the alignment of the posts in one direction by
sighting from one end of the row of posts to the other.
BrHCI each post with stakes after it is properly aligned (Fig. 3).
Keep the stakes in position until the concrete (if used) has
thoroughly set. Remove the nails holding the brHCIs and
readjust the post until it is in accurate alignment.
When the post is properly aligned, tamp it thoroughly to pack the

dirt (if used) around the base of the post. Be sure you do not alter
the alignment of the post during the tamping process.
FIG. 4 - Build a mound around each post to When the post is firmly in position, build a mound around it to
eliminate standing water. help eliminate water standing at the post base (Fig. 4). Slope the
concrete slightly away from the post and round it off with a
trowel. Tamp the concrete lightly to eliminate any air bubbles
left in the mixture that can act as water pockets.
Provide extra bracing at all corners (Fig. 5). A corner post must
carry the weight of fence stretched in two directions, so it should
be set in both directions.
Allow the posts to stand several days and settle firmly in position
FIG. 5 - BrHCI all corner posts in both directions before adding the fence.
to help them carry weight.
The heads of posts should be rounded, capped or slanted to help
eliminate accumulating water, which can cause rotting (Fig. 6).
This is well-worth the effort since it allows the posts to last.
FIG. 6 - The heads of posts should be rounded,

capped or slanted to shed water.
ADDING RAILS TO FENCE POSTS
Attach a top and bottom rail to the fence posts (Fig. 7). There are
three basic ways to do this.
The center illustration shows the top rail being nailed to the top
of the post. This is an ideal installation for many types of fencing
structures. The top rail can always be joined to another rail in the
center of a post this way.
FIG. 7 - There are three ways to attach top rails.
If the rail is added on the body of the post rather than at the top,
attach it with a groove, a wood block or a metal bracket.
You can attach the bottom rail to the post by either of the two
outside illustrations.
Fig. 8 illustrates several other ways to attach a rail to a fence

post. Study these illustrations carefully. The type of joint you use
to attach the fence supports to the post depends primarily on the
type of fence you are building.
The lap joint is one of the easiest to use. The grooved joint does
basically the same job, but the rail is grooved into the post rather
than being nailed to the post surfHCI.
The butt joint is a little more difficult to make but is often better.
The mortised joint is even neater than the butt joint, but you must
cut a mortise into the post for this joint.
The slotted joint is commonly used on decorative fences. Treat

FIG. 8
all slotted joints with preservative to prevent rotting in the
grooved areas.
Take time to measure from the top rail to be sure the bottom rail
on each is in perfect alignment (Fig. 9). After you have measured
one post, cut a measuring stick to prevent having to make an
actual measurement on each post. The stick can be used to apply
the same measurement to each post.
FIG. 9 - Measure from the top rail to align each

bottom rail on each post.
SELECTING THE FENCE STYLE
There are literally hundreds of variations in fence styles and

construction materials. There is pre-assembled wood fencing
sections as well as fencing materials made from recycled milk
jugs. The type of fence you use depends primarily on the purpose.
FIG. 10 - Fences like these provide a barrier but Fences like the type shown in Fig. 10 are used primarily for
offer little privacy. barriers. They are easy to build and provide an adequate barrier.
However, they are usually not very decorative and they provide
very little, if any, privacy.
Fences like those illustrated in Fig. 11 provide barriers and are

more attractive than an ordinary fence. With a little shrubbery or
plants, such fences can provide very attractive barriers along
property lines.
Fences such as those illustrated in Fig. 12 are primarily privacy
screens. They can be built as tall as needed out of many different
materials. Their primary purpose is privacy.
Consider your needs when selecting the style of your fence. If

you want a simple barrier, a wire fence or a simple style fence
such as illustrated in Fig. 10 will work fine.
For a barrier that enhances the appearance, consider styles

similar to those illustrated in Fig. 11.
FIG. 11 - Barriers like these can enhance the
appearance of your yard. For added privacy, consider the styles illustrated in Fig. 12.
Regardless of the type of fence you plan to build, be sure you

know exactly where your property line is located. If you are
uncertain about the location of the line, check into it or work out
an agreement on the fence location with your neighbor.
Also, check any local ordinances applying to fences before

beginning construction. Call the building department of your
local city hall or ask for the local government office that
regulates construction to be sure you abide by city codes.
Try to keep the bottom rail of any fence at least 2" above the
ground. This helps eliminate the problem of decay and makes it
FIG. 12 - These fences are primarily used to easier to trim grass around the base of the fence.
provide privacy.
Fig. 13 illustrates four basic styles of easy-to-build fence. Each
style has the same basic top, center and bottom rail construction.
However, the fences look entirely different with the various rail
treatments.
Study the designs in Fig. 13 carefully. Decide which of these

styles you prefer, or use a little imagination and create your own
fencing design to apply to the basic rail fencing structure.
Picket fences are very popular and easy to build. With a little
FIG. 13 - These four easy-to-build styles of
ingenuity you can create attractive picket designs. Study the
fence have the same basic construction.
designs in Fig. 14. Use the designs shown in Fig. 14 or your own
designs to create a distinctive picket fence.
Make sure that all the pickets are spHCId by inserting a loose
picket between the picket previously nailed into position and the
picket to be nailed. Use this easy method throughout the entire
fencing construction.
A basket weave fence is often used on a sloping terrain (Fig. 16).

This style of fence allows you to raise or lower each post.
Use a good-quality board to build a basket weave fence. Boards
full of knots may break easily when plHCId under the stress of
basket weaving.
A simple board fence is easy to build and can be quite attractive

(Fig. 17). You can plHCI the boards on one side or alternate
them from side to side.
The board fence provides both a barrier and privacy. It can be

built as tall as needed and then stained, painted or left natural.
FIG. 14 - Picket fences can be styled in many
ways.
You can design a siding fence to match the siding on your home
of this style. In fact, you can use the same siding that was used
on the home to build the fence.
The siding fence can be covered on one side or both. Then, you
can paint it to match or harmonize with the paint on your home.
These are only a few of the many styles of fencing available.

Fences are easy to build, and the materials are readily available.
FIG. 15 - Use a loose picket to ensure even

spacing.
FIG. 16 - A basket weave fence adapts easliy to

a sloping yard.
FIG. 17 - This board fence is easy to build.

Boards & Posts Power Saw
Post Hole Digger Paint or Outdoor Stain
Steel Tape Marking Pencil
Small Axe or Hatchet Gravel or Sand
Nails Hand Saw
Hammer Work Gloves
Level Ready-Mix Concrete
Wood Chisel Tamping Rod
Wood Preservative
in this document.

An underground sprinkler system is not only a convenient way to water your lawn, it also makes the
most efficient use of water. This brochure will give you an overview of the steps involved in designing
and installing a sprinkler system.
Types of Sprinkler Systems

Planning Your Sprinkler System
Installing Your Sprinkler System
Connecting PVC Pipe
TYPES OF SPRINKLER SYSTEMS
The water pressure in most residential systems isn't great enough

to water an entire lawn at once. As a result, most systems are
divided into circuits, each with its own control valve. Control
valves are operated by an electronic controller that turns each
circuit on and off according to the schedule you set.
The system consists of standard PVC pipe running from your

existing water supply line. At each sprinkler, the pipe connects to
a riser that feeds the sprinkler head. Sprinkler heads are designed
to throw water in a full circle, a half circle, or a quarter circle.
There are two types: rotary sprinkler heads extend above the
ground permanently, and pop-up heads are designed to be flush
with the ground when off, so you can mow over them.
COMPONENTS OF A SPRINKLER SYSTEM - From the Sunset book, Basic Plumbing
Illustration, Sunset Publishing Corporation.
PLANNING YOUR SPRINKLER SYSTEM
The first step in planning your system is to check with your local
building department and get any permits you may need. Then
make a sketch of your property, showing the locations of all
structures, walkways and driveways, and trees and shrubs (Fig.
1). Call your local utility companies and have them come out and
mark the location of buried gas, electrical, and telephone lines.
Note those locations on your sketch.
Next, determine your water pressure and flow rate. Borrow or

rent a water pressure gauge and attach it to a hose bibb. Turn the
water on full (with all other water in the house off) to find the
pressure. Systems vary, but you'll probably need a minimum of
20 pounds per square inch (psi) pressure to install sprinklers.
Check the flow rate by placing a one-gallon bucket under a hose

bibb, turning the water on full (with all other water in the house
off) and time how long it takes to fill the bucket. Divide the
number of seconds by 60 to find the gallons per minute (gpm)
capacity of your line. The result of this test will determine the
size of each sprinkler circuit.
Then plot the locations of sprinkler heads on your sketch.
Multiply the throw distance of the heads (usually 15 feet) by 1.4
to find the spacing between sprinkler heads, so the areas covered
by each head overlap. In windy areas, spHCI the sprinkler heads
the same as the throw rating.
Finally, divide the system into circuits. The manufacturer's

instructions will include an output chart that gives you a gpm
rating for each sprinkler head. Divide the gpm capacity of your
water line by the rating of each head to find the number of
sprinkler heads that you can put on each circuit. Never combine
different types of sprinkler heads (e.g., lawn sprinklers with low-
shrub sprinklers) on the same circuit.
As a rule, you'll use 3/4" PVC pipe to lay a system with circuits
that are less than 100' long, or 1" pipe for circuits over 100'. In
any case, your system pipe will be no larger than the supply line
you tap into.
FIG. 1 - To plan your sprinkler system, first draw a base plan of your property, noting all
features and locations of buried utility lines. Then draw in the sprinkler system, locating the
sprinkler heads and then planning the circuits that will feed them. From the Sunset book, Basic
Plumbing Illustration, Sunset Publishing Corporation.
INSTALLING YOUR SPRINKLER SYSTEM
The first step in installing the system is to build a manifold. A

manifold is a group of control valves connected to a length of
PVC pipe, spHCId 3" to 6" apart. Water comes to the manifold
from the supply line, then is routed through the proper control
valve to the circuit by the controller. The manifold can be
mounted above ground or buried (with the control valves
projecting above ground), then covered with a box.
Next, dig V-shaped trenches at least 8" deep for the pipe. The
trenches should be straight and reasonably level. To tunnel under
a sidewalk, connect a piece of galvanized pipe to a garden hose
and turn the water on full force to wash away the soil. Then cap a
length of PVC pipe with duct tape and drive it through the hole.
FIG. 2 - Tapping into the water system at a hose Tap into the water supply line (Figs. 2, 3, 4) by installing a tee at
bibb. From the Sunset book, Basic Plumbing
one of three locations: 1) just past the water meter in the
basement; 2) just behind an outside hose bibb; or 3) along the
main supply line before it enters the house, but past the outside
meter (if there is one). Install a stop-and-waste valve as an
emergency shutoff and to be able to drain the system for the
winter. Install the shutoff valve just past the connection to the
supply line, then run pipe to the manifold. Once the PVC
connections are cured, turn the water on for a minute or two to
flush the system.
Install antisiphon valves onto the control valves to prevent

contaminated water from getting back into your home's supply
lines (Fig. 5).
Lay the pipe in the trenches, then begin making connections.

Before you install each threaded riser tee, screw the riser in
plHCI temporarily. As you install the riser tees, hold a
carpenter's square against the riser to make sure the tee is set so
each riser will be at a 90-degree angle to the ground.
FIG. 3 - Tapping into the water system in the Once the pipes are assembled and the connections cured, install
basement, just past the water meter. From the
the risers (Fig. 6). Cut them carefully to make sure the sprinkler
Sunset book, Basic Plumbing Illustration,
heads will be at the correct height. Once the risers are in plHCI,
attach the sprinkler heads (Fig. 7).
Finally, mount the controller (typically, the controller goes in the
garage), and run low-voltage wires to the control valves. Set the
watering controls for each circuit, then test the system by
opening and shutting each circuit. Backfill the trenches, then
water the soil down thoroughly to compact it. Add more soil
until each trench is slightly raised, then replHCI the sod or
reseed.
FIG. 4 - Tapping into the water system outside,

just past the water meter. From the Sunset book,
Basic Plumbing Illustration, Sunset Publishing
Corporation.
FIG. 5 - Each control valve should be fitted with

an antisiphon valve; the assembly should be at
least 6" from the ground. From the Sunset book,
Basic Plumbing Illustration, Sunset Publishing
Corporation
FIG. 6 - Run the pipes from each control valve in
turn. Be sure to test the system before you fill the
trenches. From the Sunset book, Basic Plumbing
Illustration, Sunset Publishing Corporation
FIG. 7 - A pop-up sprinkler head (left), and a

rotary head (right). From the Sunset book, Basic
Plumbing Illustration, Sunset Publishing
Corporation
CONNECTING PVC PIPE
The type of material you use to install your sprinkler system will
depend on the manufacturer's recommendations. Some systems
use flexible pipe, plastic or metal inserts, and clamps. Other
systems use PVC pipe and fittings. This sprinkler system
requires PVC pipe. Be sure to use PVC cleaner on any PVC pipe
project. Fig. 9 illustrates how to connect the PVC pipe.
Step 1Cut the pipe to length, then remove any burrs with a
pocket knife. The cut should be as square as possible to insure a
leak free installation.
Step 2Take the gloss off both ends of the connection (the end of
the pipe and the inside of the fitting) with a piece of emery
paper, then wipe both ends with PVC cleaner.
Step 3If necessary (e.g., for riser tees), fit the pieces together dry
and mark the alignment with a felt tip pen.
Steps 4 & 5Finally, coat both surfHCIs with PVC solvent and
connect the pieces together as far as you can and then give the
pipe a 1/4 turn to spread the solvent. Wait two hours before
running water through the pipe.
FIG. 8 - From the Sunset book, Basic Plumbing
100' Measuring Tape Steep Tape Measure
Hacksaw Level
String Shovel
PVC Pipe Pipe Fittings
Risers Sprinkler Heads
Pocket Knife Emery Paper
PVC Cleaner PVC Solvent
Stop-and-Waste Valve Controller
Control Valves Antisiphon Valves
Graph Paper Pencil, Felt Tip Pen

in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to frame and hang doors. Following these instructions can
save you time and effort, while helping you to end up with a neater, more satisfactory installation. In
this document you will find information about:
Framing a Door
Hanging a Door
Mortising the Door for Hinges
How to Install a Cylinder Lock
FRAMING A DOOR
FIG. 1 - Decide the location of the door when

Framing a door is a simple task when you follow a few simple
you're installing the studs, plates and shoes. instructions. Decide where each door is to be located when you
are installing studs, plates and shoes for a new wall (Fig. 1).
Follow these same basic instructions when you're cutting a door
through an existing stud wall. Use metal lumber connector
brackets to make nailing your door frame together easier.
The 2x3 or 2x4 that is nailed to the floor to provide a base for
the studs is referred to as a "shoe." The 2x4s plHCId in an
upright position to support the wall are referred to as "studs."
The 2x4 laid on top of the studs is referred to as a "plate."
The size of this opening will vary depending on the size of the
door you plan to install. A typical door opening is about 2'8".
Measure the door carefully and cut the opening to fit.
FIG. 2 - Add a single stud on each side to
make an opening the width of the door, plus 6".
Next, cut and insert studs on each side of the door area (Fig. 2).
Make this opening the width of the door plus 6". The extra 6"
allows for the width of the door facing on both sides.
Now, measure the height of the door to be installed. Cut 2x4s to
the height of the door plus 1". Install these studs on either side
of the door as illustrated in Fig. 3.
There are two ways to finish the header area over the door
frame. The first is to cut two 2x4s to a length equal to the width
of the original opening and insert them to form a header above
the door (Fig. 4). Nail these header pieces together securely
when they are plHCId in position.
Next, measure the distance from the top of the header plate to
FIG. 3 - Add 2x4 studscut to the height of the
the ceiling plate and cut "cripple studs" to this length (Fig. 5).
door plus 1"on both sides of the door.
Insert three cripple studs in the spHCI above the door header as
illustrated. Toenail these cripple studs to the header above the
door and to the plate at the top of the studs.
The other method is to cut two 2x10s to a width of the original

opening. PlHCI 1/2" plywood spHCIrs between the pieces of
2x10 and nail them together (Fig. 6). Insert them to form the
header above the door (Fig. 7).
Insert the door jamb in the spHCI you have now created (Fig.
FIG. 4 - Cut two 2x4s to a length equal to the
8). This door jamb is normally purchased ready-cut for
width of the original opening. Inset to form a installation.
header above the door.
Fig. 9 shows the details on installing a door jamb and casing.
Study this drawing carefully before attempting to install the
door jamb. These same parts of the jamb are installed whether
the jamb is purchased ready-cut or is cut on the job.
In some cases, the casing on an outside door frame is nailed

directly to the studs. In other cases, the casing is nailed over the
sheathing. The thickness of the interior wallboard and the sub-
sheathing determines how the door jamb is installed.
FIG. 5 - Add three cripple studs in the area Insert a filler strip to make the door jamb fit the installation, if
above the header spHCI. needed.
Add finish framing to the door after applying the paneling,

drywall or other wall material (Fig. 9). Head and side casings
finish off the opening for the door.
FIG. 6 - Make a double header from two 2x4s.
The thickness of the 2x10s and the 1/2" spHCIrs
equals the width of a 2x4.
FIG. 7 - Set the 2x10 header on edge.
FIG. 8 - The door jamb is usually ready-cut for

installation.
FIG. 9 - Follow these details for installing the

door jamb.
HANGING A DOOR
The first step in hanging a door is determining whether it is to be

hung right-hand or left-hand. A right-hand door means the hinge
is added to the right side, while a left-hand door means the hinge
is on the left side.
The hand of a door is always determined from the outside. For an

FIG. 10 - A butt gauge is a handy tool for entrance way, this means the street side.
hanging doors.
The "outside" of an interior door is the side from which the
hinges are not available, and the door opens away from you.
Although you can hang doors accurately without a butt gauge,

you may want to acquire this handy tool if you plan to hang
many doors. It makes the job much easier (Fig. 10).
PlHCI the flange of the butt gauge against the jamb or the side of
the door as you would a regular T-square (Fig. 11). Mark the
position where the hinge is to be attached with a scratch awl or a
pen knife. This will give you square lines where the hinge is to
be attached.
FIG. 11 - Use the butt gauge on either doors or
jambs. Determine the width of the hinge to be applied, and set the butt
gauge to the correct width (Fig. 12). The setback of the hinge is
illustrated, too. This is usually about 1/4". This setback hides the
hinge when it is recessed into the door.
Next, apply the butt gauge to the jamb of the door and mark this
same measurement on the jamb.
The small extension piece on the opposite end of the butt gauge
measures the offset for swaged hinges (Fig. 13). This spHCI
FIG. 12 - Use the butt gauge to make between the leaves of the hinges allows for clearance at the butt
measurements. edge of the door. If a hinge is not swaged, set the gauge for
slightly less than half the thickness of the barrel of the hinge.
Fig. 14 provides a table for determining the size and type of

hinge to use on doors of different types.
Obviously, heavy doors require heavier hinges than light doors,

and doors taller than 5' should have three hinges.
Fig. 14 - Loose pin butt hinge specifications for wood doors.
Doors larger than 5' should have three butt hinges, one for ea. 2-1/2 ' of height.
Door
Type Size Width Butt Hinge Size
3/4",
Cupboard Up to 24" 2-1/2"
7/8"
7/8" to
FIG.13 - Allow spHCI for swaged hinges. Screen Up to 36" 3"
1-1/8"
1-1/8"
Doors Up to 32" 3-1/2"
to 1-3/8"
1-1/8"
32" to 37" 4"
to 1-3/8"
1-9/16",
1-3/4", Up to 32" 4-1/2"
1-1/8"
1-9/16",
1-3/4", 32" to 37" 5"
1-1/8"
1-9/16",
1-3/4", 37" to 43" 5" Ex Heavy
1-1/8"
1-9/16",
1-3/4", 43" to 50" 6" Ex Heavy
1-1/8"
2", 2-
1/4", 2- Up to 43" 5" Ex Heavy
1/4"
2", 2-
1/4", 2- 43" to 50" 6" Ex Heavy
1/4"
MORTISING THE DOOR FOR HINGES
Use a small square or a butt gauge to mark the location of the

hinge on the door (A, Fig. 15).
Use a marking gauge to indicate the area of the door that the
hinge will not cover (B, Fig. 15). This area is referred to as the
FIG.15 - Use a small square or butt gauge to gain or setback.
mark the location of the hinge on the door.
Next, use a chisel and a rubber or plastic hammer to score the
marked area (A, Fig. 16). Be sure the chisel is sharp and the
correct size.
Using the same chisel, make shallow cuts about 1/4" apart in the
marked area (B, Fig. 16). Tap the chisel lightly with the rubber
or plastic hammer to make these cuts.
Use the chisel to remove the surplus wood you have cut away to
the depth needed to conceal the hinge in the area (C, Fig. 16).
FIG.16 - Cut and chisel out the wood as shown.
Fig. 17 illustrates a cutaway top view of a 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" butt
hinge mounted on the door and the side jamb. Follow this same
arrangement when installing hinges of any size.
Use a nail punch or a drill to start the screw holes, both in the
door and the door jamb. Pull the leaf of the hinge tightly into
plHCI on both the door and the jamb with a good screwdriver.
Put the door into the correct position, and insert the hinge pins.
Tap the pins into plHCI with a rubber or plastic hammer.
After the door is hung, swing it a few times to check for

FIG.17 - Top view of a 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" butt
alignment. Make any adjustments necessary to the door and the
hinge, mounted.
hinges for proper positioning. In some cases, a door may need
light planing or sanding in a few spots. In other cases, the hinges
may need slight adjustments for proper alignment.
HOW TO INSTALL A CYLINDER LOCK
Instructions for installing a cylinder lock usually accompany the

lock you purchase. Follow these mounting instructions carefully,
using the template provided with the lock for drilling the holes in
the door (Fig. 18).
FIG.18 - Use the template provided to position
the lock on the door for drilling. Instructions on mounting a cylinder lock vary from one
manufacturer to another. The hole for any lock is usually drilled
at a point 38" from the floor.
You can use special adjustable drill bits for drilling holes for the
lock, or you may prefer to use a cylinder-type hole drill that
works with your power drill. The hole for a cylinder lock is
usually about 2-1/8" in diameter.
2x3s (Various Lengths) Hand Saw
Nails (Various Sizes) Sawhorses
Door Jamb Door
T-Square Expansive Bit
Butt Gauge Hinges (three per door)
Marking Gauge Sharp Knife
Rubber or Plastic Hammer BrHCI and Bit
Marking Pencil Lock
Wood Chisel Cylinder-Type Drill Bit

2x4s (Various Lengths) Power Saw
1/4" Paneling Hammer
Metal Lumber Connectors
in this document.

Following these tips and instructions on how to remove and replHCI broken window glass can help
save you time, money and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:
Preparing for the New Window Glass

Installing New Glass
Adding the Finishing Touches
Replacing Glass on Doors
FIG. 1 - Wear heavy work gloves and use care PREPARING FOR THE NEW WINDOW GLASS
when removing broken glass.
Although removing and replacing windowpanes is not a difficult

job, doing the job right requires a certain amount of attention and
skill. There is a lot more to it than just inserting a new
windowpane and adding a little putty.
You can use the instructions here for a windowpane of almost

any size. However, if the windowpane is a large one, you should
remove the complete window frame and plHCI it on a flat
surfHCI before attempting to remove the broken glass or to
install the new glass.
The first step is removing the broken glass. Use care on this
FIG. 2 - Use a chisel or knife to remove old
putty. phase of the jobobviously, broken pieces of glass can be very
dangerous. Wear work gloves to protect your hands while
removing the broken pieces of glass from the frame.
A shattered windowpane can be removed quite easily (Fig. 1).

Pull one broken piece out at a time. Be sure to wear protective
gloves while doing this. Don't take chances!
If the glass is only cracked, you may need to remove most or all
of the putty in order to take out the broken glass. Regardless of
which way you do it, use extreme care to protect your arms from
cuts.
Next, remove the old putty from the window frame. You can use
FIG. 3 - A heat gun or soldering tool can make a wood chisel, a putty knife or a jackknife (Fig. 2). Take time to
it easier to remove old putty. remove every trHCI of the old putty.
Break the old putty into little pieces as you remove it. If you try
to remove too much putty at one time, you may split the wood
frame on the window.
Remove all the glazier's points as you remove the putty. Glazier's
points are the small metal triangles driven into the frame
underneath the putty that hold the glass in plHCI.
Some putty may be extremely difficult to remove. If this is the

case, you can use a heat source such as a heat gun or soldering
FIG. 4 - On old windows, brush a coat of
tool to soften the old putty, which makes it much easier to
linseed oil on all wood surfHCIs before applying remove.
new putty.
Run the heat source along the putty just ahead of your chisel
(Fig. 3). The heat will soften the putty. This allows the putty to
pull away from the wood frame much more easily.
Take your time when removing old putty, since this is an

important part of a glass replHCIment. By using heat, a good
putty knife or chisel, and a little patience, you can remove even
hardened putty that is well-set quite easily.
After completely removing the old putty and the glazier's points,
FIG. 5 - Apply a very thin layer of putty around
the fram before installing new glass.
use the point of the chisel or the knife to smooth out any rough
spots in the wood frame where the new glass will be inserted.
If you are replacing glass in an old window, take a small

paintbrush and apply a heavy coat of linseed oil to all sections of
the wood around the frame (Fig. 4). Allow the oil to completely
soak in.
Linseed oil on the frame helps keep the oil in the putty from
soaking out, which causes the putty to dry out quickly. If you
saturate the wood with linseed oil before applying the putty, the
new putty remains pliable and lasts much longer.
While pure linseed oil works in most cases, check the label on
the putty you are using. The manufacturer may have another
recommendation.
After you have removed the old putty and applied the linseed oil
to the frame, apply a very thin layer (about 1/16") of putty
completely around the frame where the new glass will be set
(Fig. 5). Make sure the base layer of putty is not too thick.
This thin layer of putty on the window frame provides a cushion

for the new glass to be inserted in. This cushion also stops the
leakage of air around the glass and prevents it from resting
directly against the wood.
INSTALLING NEW GLASS
Now that you have removed the old putty and the frame is ready
for the glass, you can insert the replHCIment glass in the frame.
The replHCIment glass must be exactly the right size. If it is not,

cut it to size with a good glass cutter. The new pane should be
just a fraction of an inch smaller than the window area it is to fill.
FIG. 6 - Press the new glass firmly into the
putty bed. Insert the new windowpane into the frame carefully (Fig. 6).
Press it down firmly.
Hold the new pane in position with one hand and insert a
glazier's point on each side to secure the pane firmly in plHCI.
The glazier's points can be inserted with only a small amount of
pressure.
Insert additional glazier's points about every 4" apart, completely

around the new pane of glass (Fig. 7).
Lay each glazier's point flat against the glass and start it into the
wood with the point of the combination glazing tool or putty
FIG. 7 - Insert a glazer's point about every 4" knife. Then, use the glazing tool to drive the glazier's points into
around the new glass. the wood.
Slide the glazing tool along the glass to eliminate the danger of
breaking it. It takes only a light blow to drive the small glazier's
point into the wood.
Be sure to keep the glazier's points firmly against the glass
wherever they are applied.
Putty should be the consistency of rather dry, thick dough when

it is applied. If it is too stiff, thin it down with the manufacturer's
recommended thinner.
You can use an old piece of glass as a kneading board for

working the putty into the right shape and consistency.
FIG. 8 - Roll the putty into pencil-sized strips
and lay it all around the glass. Knead the putty until it is completely pliable and free of lumps.
Then roll it into pencil-size strips.
Take a roll of putty into your hands and start applying it in one
corner of the window frame (Fig. 8). Lay the strip in the frame
completely around the new piece of glass.
When the putty is completely in plHCI, smooth it out with a

putty knife or scraper/glazer using long, even strokes.
Hold the glazing tool at an angle and be sure it is clean. Any

FIG. 9 - A combination glazing tool can make corrosion or rust on the knife will make it difficult to do a
applying the putty easier. smooth, neat job.
Your glazing tool will work better if you dip it into a can of
linseed oil just before using it to spread putty.
Use long, corner-to-corner strokes with the glazing tool Don't

spread the putty so far out on the new windowpane that it is
visible from the other side.
A combination scraper and glazer tool makes the job of glazing

windows even easier (Fig. 9). The angled blade rides along the
front surfHCI of the window as it forms the bevel on the putty.
The other end of the tool is a scraper for removing old putty.
FIG. 10 - Smooth the finish on the putty with a
putty knife or scraper/glazer. Whether you use a putty knife or a scraper/glazer, it may be
difficult at first. However, with a little practice, you can smooth
out the putty completely around the windowpane (Fig. 10). Keep
smoothing until the putty takes on a neat, finished appearance.
Study Fig. 11 to see how to plHCI the putty on the frame. It

should cover the glazier's points, which are illustrated, and be set
at an angle so it holds the glass firmly in plHCI without showing
from the opposite side of the window.
FIG. 11 - The new putty should be shaped Scrape completely around the area puttied, and remove any
somewhat as shown.
excess putty in corners or along the edges.
A fine grade of sandpaper may be helpful in eliminating rough
spots.
ADDING THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Check the label on the putty you are using for painting
instructions. You may be able to paint the putty right away or
you may have to wait. This depends on the manufacturer's
recommendations.
Use at least two coats of outside paint for a good job.
One of the easiest ways to paint window frames is to allow the

paint to cover not only the putty but also part of the glass. Don't
FIG. 12 - Allow the paint to flow out onto the worry about straight edges (Fig. 12).
window.
Use a razorblade scraper for removing the extra paint from the
glass. Run the scraper about 1/8" away from the edge of the putty
(Fig. 13). Be careful not to gouge the putty.
There are products that when applied to the glass before painting
make removing the excess paint easier.
Make sure the putty left over from your job is kept airtightit will
remain usable for many months.
FIG. 13 - To clean up, run the scraper about

1/8" from the edge of the putty.
REPLACING GLASS ON DOORS
Although most window glasses are held in position with putty,

the glass on many doors is held in plHCI with thin wood strips
(Fig. 14). Building code in most areas requires safety glazing
materials in entrance doors.
If the pane of glass on a door is broken, you can remove and

replHCI these wood strips without putty.
First, pry out the strip on the long side using a screwdriver, a
putty knife or some other prying instrument. Always remove the
long side first. After removing one strip, the others will come out
FIG. 14 - Door glass is usually held in plHCI easily.
with wood strips.
After the strips are removed, use a pair of pliers to remove the
small brad nails or to pull them through the wood strips.
Glass Cutter Putty
Putty Knife or Scraper/Glazer Glass of Proper Size
Paint Window Scraper
Hand Cleaner Metal Shield
Work Gloves Linseed Oil
Chisel Heat Gun or Soldering Tool
Razorblade Scraper Paintbrush
Glazier's Points Pliers

in this document.

Repairing and replacing screens fits easily under the heading of do-it-yourself projects. Screen repair is
among the simplest of jobs. In this document you will find information about:
Screen Repairs
Replacing Screening in Wood Frames
Replacing Screening in Metal Frames
Frame Repairs
Painting Screens
Cleaning Screens
SCREEN REPAIRS
You can easily patch most small holes. It's only when a hole
exceeds about 3" in diameter that the screening itself needs to be
replHCId.
Measure hole sizes and purchase ready-made, snap-on repair

patches or cut them from new screening. A patch should be at least
1/2" larger in diameter than the hole. For bigger holes, the patch
should be as much as 1" larger.
FIG. 1 - Unravel several strands from the For metal and most fiberglass screen patches, use this procedure:
patching material or use a ready-made, snap-on Unravel a number of strands around the edges of the patch one or
patch. two rows back from the edges, depending on the patch size (Fig.
1). Then weave the strands through the screening and bend them
tight (Fig. 2). You can usually bend the strands with your fingers,
but if the patch is heavy duty, you may need long-nosed pliers.
Plastic patches need a touch of household cement on the ends of
the strands after they've been woven through.
You can patch small holes1/4" to 3/8"with a small amount of

household cement (Fig. 3). This glue patch will be next to invisible.
Fiberglass and plastic screens are tough to patch and should

probably be replHCId.
FIG. 2 - Slip the bent strands of the patch

through the screening, then bend them back to
hold the patch in.
FIG. 3 - Close holes up to 3/8" with household

cement.
REPLACING SCREENING IN WOOD FRAMES
To remove the old screening, pry off the screen molding, starting
in the center of a strip and working toward the ends. Try not to
break it.
Your local retailer can help you decide what type of new screening
to use. For general household screening, you need a mesh of 18" x
FIG. 4 - For the cleat-and-wedge method of
14" or finer (these are the stand counts in each direction, per inch).
stretching a new screen, first staple the screening
across the top of the frame. With wooden window and door screens, it is important to stretch
the screen fabric drum-tight for a neat and long-lasting job. For the
wedge method of stretching, you'll need some 1x2 stock in a length
slightly wider than the window or door and some 1x4 stock from
which to saw out the wedges.
Cut your new screening at least 1' longer and 1' wider than the unit
to be recovered.
Staple the screening across the top edge (Fig. 4). Then install the
1x2 cleats with the bottom cleat nailed to a bench or other flat
surfHCI. Roll the screening over it, then nail on the top cleat (Fig.
5).
FIG. 5 - Then nail down the longer end between
Insert the wedges between the cleats and screen frame, tapping the
two cleats.
wedges in until the screen has been pulled taut. Fig. 6 shows the
procedure.
Staple the screening at the bottom, then along the sides. Put a
staple in every few inches (Fig. 7).
Snip off any excess screening, and use brads to refit the screen
moldings. Countersink the brads and fill the holes with wood putty.
The cleat-and-wedge method works well with window screens and

halves of doors, but there's a better method of stretching screen
material on larger units, such as doors. You'll need a pair of
FIG. 6 - Insert wedges between the cleats and sawhorses with two 2x4s about the same length as the screen
frame, tapping them in gently until the screen pulls plHCId across them (or use a sheet of plywood). PlHCI the
taut. stripped fame on the boards, holding the center with C-clamps.
Then lift each end and insert short 2x4 blocks to bow them (Fig.
8). Bowing needs to be done slowly and gently to keep from
snapping the frame.
Now staple the screen in plHCI tightly, starting at the center

brHCI. Remove the 2x4 blocks and the screen will be quite taut as
you replHCI the screen moldings.
FIG. 7 - Now you can staple the screening along

the bottom and both sides.
FIG. 8 - For longer frames, plHCI the unit on
sawhorses over 2x4s or plywood. The center is
clamped and the ends are gently raised on 2x4
blocks.
REPLACING SCREENING IN METAL FRAMES
Aluminum screens or screen doors require a different technique.
Without kinking the metal frame, remove the splines that hold the
old screen in plHCI (Fig. 9). Check to see if new splines are
needed. For replHCIment, vinyl splining is excellent. It comes in
rolls of various widths.
FIG. 9 - To replHCI screening in a metal frame, Use a square to make sure the frame is still in decent shape.
carefully pry out the splines with a screwdriver
Reshape it if not.
that's slightly smaller than the spline.
Cut new screening to the frame's outside measurements (Fig. 10).
Next, force the screen's edges into the channel on the top and one
side using the convex-edged wheel of a spline or screen
installation tool (Fig. 11). These tools are available with different-
width rollersuse one that matches the channels in your screen
frame. Use short strokes for the best results. A putty knife will
work, too.
With a sharp utility knife, cut the screening to fit the two
remaining sides. Use the outside edge of the retaining channel as a
FIG. 10 - Cut the screening to the exterior frame
guide. Use the spline tool to roll the screening into the remaining
size.
grooves.
Use the concave-edged wheel of the spline tool to roll the retaining
strips or splines into the channels (Fig. 12). As before, make short
strokes. As the spline goes in, it will pull the screening taut. To
complete the installation, cut off any excess screening around all
four sides.
FRAME REPAIRS
Screen frame repairs are easiest to make on wooden screen doors

and windows. You may need wood glue, dowels, corrugated or
chevron fasteners, mending plates and wood screws, depending on
the condition of the frame. The fasteners work best on mitered-
corner screen frames.
If the joint is slightly loosened but the material is intact, open it up

FIG. 11 - Roll the screening down into the enough to apply wood glue. Use a glue that's suited for outdoor
channel using the convex wheel of the spline tool. exposure (ask your retailer).
Along with re-gluing, you may want to install a mending plate of

the proper size. Flat and angled plates are available in many sizes;
use the largest size that fits without causing problems. Secure the
plates with wood screws, which are often included. Make sure the
screws don't come through the back of the frame.
For making a simple repair at a slightly damaged corner, you have

two choices. You can use a wood screw from the undamaged edge
or a dowel from either edge (with glue). Drill and countersink for
the wood screw, using as large a size as practical. A 2-1/2" No. 10
screw is probably the smallest screw that's strong enough to last.
FIG. 12 - Roll the spline into the channels with Fill the countersink hole with putty.
the concave wheel of the spline tool.
For a dowel, drill for at least a 3/8" diameter dowel. A 1/2" dowel
is even better. Dowels need to be slightly undersized for their holes
with a tap fit. Take care to see that the dowel runs on into
undamaged wood.
Coat the dowel with glue and tap it into the hole.
With dowel and wood screw repairs, the holes should extend into
both pieces of the frame. If the frame shows signs of twisting,
you'll need to use two slightly smaller dowels or two wood screws.
Fig. 13 shows four types of screen corner repairs using a wood

screw, dowel and two types of mending plates.
Aluminum frame repairs are limited to rebracing of corners. Or

you can get extruded metal frame stock and make new screens. A
cross-brHCI kit is also available, if needed, with turnbuckles and
clamps to draw a sagging screen door back into square and hold it
there.
For frame or corner repairs, check the squareness of the frame,

FIG. 13 - Screws and dowels are useful where
the outside layer of wood has been weakened,
then use mending plates and sheet metal screws to make repairs or
while mending plates go on simply and quickly. to reinforce those corners. Be sure that the mending plates you use
are the same material as the frame. This will help prevent corrosive
electrolysis between dissimilar metals.
PAINTING SCREENS
In most cases, only wood-framed screens ever need painting.

Choose the paint to match the window frames. Select painting
tools that are suited for use on small surfHCIs. If you have the old
screening off and find that the frame needs painting, do it while the
screen is off.
On wood screens, remove the old, torn screening as the paint coat
under the molding and screen provides protection. Make sure the
coating is light, though, so the molding fits on replHCIment.
Don't try painting screen mesh. If your screens have galvanized

screen mesh, replHCI them if they rust. Painting aluminum or
fiberglass screening is only a waste of time and paint.
CLEANING SCREENS
To clean screens, first try vacuuming them while installed. An

upholstery nozzle usually does the trick.
In some cases, airborne dirt cannot be removed simply by

vacuuming. Then the screens must be taken off and washed. With
luck, a hard spray from a garden hose will do the job (Fig. 14). In
other cases, you'll need to scrub the screens. Do this with a stiff-
bristled brush and a mild detergent solution, and finish by rinsing
with the hose.
FIG. 14 - Sometimes, simply spraying screens
with water will clean them sufficiently; other times,
scrubbing with a brush and detergent is needed.
18" x 16" or 18" x 14" Screening Snap-On Screen Patches
Heavy-Duty Scissors Heavy-Duty Stapler
Try or Framing Square Measuring Tape or Rule
Utility Knife Claw Hammer
Screen Molding Nail Set
Drill and Bits Screwdriver
Long-Nosed Pliers Metal Snips
Tack Hammer Spline Tool
Sawhorses Screws
Dowels, 3/8" or 1/2" Mending Plates
Shop Vacuum with Upholstery Brush Paintbrush or Pad
Exterior Trim Paint 1x2 and 1x4 Stock

Paint Solvent Sandpaper, 80 or 100 Grit
Clean-Up Rags Garden Hose
Stiff-Bristled Brush 2x4 Boards
2 C-Clamps, 3" or Larger Exterior Wood Glue
Plastic Spline Material
in this document.

If you're getting ready to replHCI your entry door, there's very little question that a steel or fiberglass
entry system is a good choice. A significant part of the heat loss in a home occurs through the doors and
windows, and an insulated entry system not only provides better R-values than a wood door, it can also
do a better job of preventing air infiltration.
This document describes the basic procedures in installing a steel or fiberglass entry system. Keep in
mind that the procedures may vary for different brands of systems. Wherever those instructions differ,
always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Entry System Features

Installing an Entry System
ENTRY SYSTEM FEATURES
Steel and fiberglass entry systems are almost identical, except for
the door itself. Steel and fiberglass entry systems are usually
factory prehung and weatherstripped (Fig. 1). Wood entry doors
may come prehung or where the door, frame, and hardware all
come separately and have to be assembled. As a rule, prehanging
provides a more weathertight system.
Steel and fiberglass doors are very similar, too (Fig. 2). They
consist of a frame, made up of vertical stiles and horizontal rails,
covered with a skin of either steel or fiberglass. The door is filled
with rigid foam insulation, typically either polystyrene or
polyurethane. The R-values of steel and fiberglass doors range
from R-7 to R-15compared to a 1-3/4" wood door, which is
approximately R-2. They provide much better insulation value.
FIG. 1 - The parts of a steel or fiberglass entry

FIG. 2 - Anatomy of an insulated entry system.
system.
The primary difference between steel and fiberglass doors is the

skin. Both may be molded to simulate a real wood door, but
fiberglass doors can be stained and varnished, whereas steel doors
are primed and painted. If you want a wood look, fiberglass is the
best choice. If you plan to paint the door, steel is probably better, if
for no other reason simply because steel is typically less expensive.
A steel or fiberglass entry system has a built-in threshold-and-sill

combination that may be wood or aluminum. The weatherstripping
is already applied, too. It may either be compression-type foam or
a vinyl bulb with a magnetic strip inside that seals the unit much
like a refrigerator door. Both offer a wide range of style
accessories, including brass hardware, decorative lights, andin the
case of fiberglassa simulated woodgrain appearance.
The frame may be steel or wood; wood is most common in

residential entry systems.
FIG. 3 - Wood doors are often assembled on the
job site. The jamb and sill are installed in the
rough opening, then the door is hung and
weatherstripped.
FIG. 4 - Steel and fiberglass doors come in a
variety of styles to match standard wood door
styles.
INSTALLING AN ENTRY SYSTEM
To install a steel or fiberglass entry system, first remove the brick

mold from around the door on the outside. Then remove the casing
from around the door on the inside. If you remove the interior
casing carefully, you may be able to reuse it.
Take the old door off its hinges, then use a reciprocating saw to cut
through the nails that hold the door jamb to the wall framing.
Remove the door jamb, then remove the threshold and pry up the
original sill so the subfloor is exposed.
FIG. 5 - Before setting the unit in the opening,
run a series of heavy beads of caulking on the
Unpack the new entry system. There may be skid boards or other
floor to seal the threshold/sill.
framing attached to protect the system during transit. Lay the door
on a pair of sawhorses and remove any protective materials. Some
brands have prehanging clips that keep the door aligned and
Some entry systems come with long security screws that are driven
FIG. 7 - Top: A wood door assembly consists of through the hinges and jamb and into the wall framing. If so, four
door, jamb, shims, brick mold, and casing. screws will be missing from the jamb leaf of the hinges. Predrill
Center: The entire wood door assembly is
removed to prepare for an insulated entry system. the jamb, then drive the security screws. Double-check the
Bottom: The new entry system is plHCId in the clearances all around the door; if they are not even, adjust the
opening and secured with shims, then the interior security screws to even the gap.
casing is reused.
Inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between
the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don't stuff it
too tightly. ReplHCI the interior casing.
On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where it
meets the siding. Finish the door according to the manufacturer's
instructions.
FIG. 8 - Adjust the gap between the door sweep

and the threshold according to the manufacturer's
instructions for a good fit.
Insulated Entry System Shims
Caulking Level
Screw Gun Steel Tape Measure
3" Drywall Screws Wood Filler
Caulking Gun Sawhorses
Fiberglass Sill Sealer Screwdriver
6d Finish Nails Finishing Materials
Electric Drill Drill Bits

nor the retailer can be held responsible for damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in
this document.

Patio doors are one of the most popular features in any home. This brochure describes the basic
procedures for installing prehung French and swinging patio doors, and for sliding patio doors. This is
always a two-person job. Keep in mind that the procedures may vary for different brands of systems.
Wherever those instructions differ, always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Types of French & Patio Doors

Installation
TYPES OF FRENCH & PATIO DOORS
There are three types of doors that often are lumped together
under the category "patio door." They are:
Sliding Patio Doors (Fig. 1) may be two-, three-, or four-panels

wide. They are sold "knocked down"i.e., the frame and door
panels are packaged separately, and the unit must be assembled
on the job site. Available frame materials are aluminum, wood,
or PVC vinyl (typically reinforced with steel or aluminum for
extra strength). Aluminum patio doors are generally the least
expensive, but also the least durable and energy efficient. Vinyl
occupies the mid-range in both price and quality, and wood is
considered top of the line.
FIG. 1 - A sliding patio door.
A two-panel sliding door has one active (sliding) panel and one
inactive (stationary) panel. It may be assembled with the active
unit on either side. A three-panel door has one active and two
inactive panels; the active panel is typically on one side or the
other rather than in the center, for the added security of being
able to lock to the jamb. A four-panel door typically has two
active panels in the center, and two inactive panels outside.
Swinging Patio Doors (Fig. 2) are typically two or three panels

wide. As a rule, the active panel is hinged to an inactive panel,
with the latch at one of the side jambs, although three-panel units
may have the active panel in the center.
Swinging patio doors are available in wood, PVC vinyl, or in

insulated steel or fiberglass. In general, a swinging door tends to
be more secure and more energy efficient than a sliding door.
French Doors (Fig. 3) are hinged at the outside of the unit and
contain at least two active panels that swing in or out from the
center of the unit. At one time they were considered less secure
than swinging patio doors because the active panels were locked
to each other rather than a permanent jamb. With the advent of
three-point locking systems that secure the door to the head jamb
and the sill, French door security is much improved. French
doors are typically available only in wood.
INSTALLATION
To install a prehung French or patio door, first unpack the new

door unit. There may be skid boards or other framing attached to
protect the system during transit. Remove any protective
materials; if the unit has prehanging clips to keep the door
aligned and closed, do not remove them.
Swinging Patio Door (two-panel prehung unit, center

hinged)Run beads of caulking along the floor where the
threshold/sill will rest. From the outside, center the bottom of the
unit in the opening and tilt it up into plHCI.
Adjust the unit so the fHCI is plumb, then secure the inactive-
FIG. 2 - A swinging patio door. side jamb to the wall framing temporarily with two 3"-long
drywall screws, plHCId about 6" below the head jamb and above
the sill.
Go inside the house and shim and check the gap along the top of
the active door. It should be even along the entire width of the
door from the hinge jamb to the latch jamb. If the gap is too wide
above the latch jamb, drive a shim under the sill directly beneath
the latch jamb until the gap is even. If the gap is too narrow
above the latch jamb, drive the shim directly beneath the hinge
jamb.
Once the gap is even, recheck to make sure the unit is plumb.
FIG. 3 - A French door pair. Then shim the latch jamb, checking it with a straightedge as you
work to make sure you don't drive the shims too far and bow the
jamb. Shim about 6" below the top of the unit, 6" above the sill
and both above and below the lock.
Be careful not to allow the unit to be twisted; the inside edge of

the jamb should be flush with the interior wall surfHCI at all
points. DO NOT SHIM ABOVE THE HEAD JAMB.
PlHCI the carpenter's square at the corners to make sure the unit
is square; if not, add shims below the sill. Shim the inactive-side
jamb in four locations evenly spHCId along the jamb. Drive the
shims snug but not too tight. Then go back outside and secure the
FIG. 4 - Before settling the unit in the opening, inactive-side jamb with two 3" drywall screws through each pair
run a series of heavy beads of caulking on the of shims. You may want to countersink the screw holes to fill
floor to seal the threshold/sill. with wood putty later on.
From inside, check again to make sure the fHCI of the unit is
plumb and that the gap between the door and jamb is even along
the top and down the latch-side jamb. Drive 3" drywall screws
through the latch jamb into the wall framing at each pair of
shims.
Check the bottom of the door to make sure the door sweep
makes even contact with the threshold across the entire width of
the door. Adjust the threshold as needed.
Inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap between
the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but don't stuff
it in too tightly. Nail the brick mold 16" on center outside and
install the interior casing.
On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where
it meets the siding. Finish the door according to the
French Doors (two-panel prehung unit)Run heavy beads of

FIG. 5 - Shim directly behind the hinges on the caulking along the floor where the sill will rest. From the
hinge side. On the latch side, shim at the top, outside, center the bottom of the unit in the opening and tilt it up
bottom, and both above and below the latch. into plHCI.
Adjust the unit so the fHCI is plumb, then secure one hinge jamb
temporarily with a 3" drywall screw plHCId about 6" below the
head jamb. Leave a small gap between the jamb and the wall
stud.
Use a level and a straightedge to make sure the head jamb is

level and straight across the entire width of the unit. Shim under
the sill directly below either hinge jamb if necessary. Insert
shims directly behind the top hinges on both sides, taking care
not to drive the shims in too hard (you don't want to bow the
jamb). Drive two 3" drywall screws just above the top hinges on
both sides.
Check the gap between the doors and the head jamb to make sure
it is even across the entire width of the unit. If not, the unit is out
of square. Adjust it as shown in Fig. 6.
Once the unit is square and level, shim behind the center and
bottom hinges on both hinge jambs. Secure the hinge jamb with
two 3" drywall screws just above the center and bottom hinges.
Remove any prehanging clips or brHCIs and test both doors to
make sure they operate properly.
From inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap
between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but
don't stuff it in too tightly. Nail the brick mold 16" on center
FIG. 6 - The width of the gap at the top of the outside, and install the interior casing.
doors will tell you whether a French door pair is
square or not. On the outside, caulk around the outside of the brick mold where
it meets the siding. Finish the door according to the
Sliding Patio DoorsInstalling a sliding patio door is a little

different because the unit generally doesn't come prehung.
Consequently, the first step is to assemble the frame.
Once the frame is assembled, run heavy beads of caulking along

the floor where the sill will rest. From the outside, center the
bottom of the frame in the opening and tilt it up into plHCI.
Adjust the frame so the fHCI is plumb, then shim behind one
hinge jamb near the top. Secure it temporarily.
Use a level and a straightedge to make sure the head jamb is

level across the entire width of the frame. Shim under the sill
directly below either side jamb if necessary. Shim the other side
jamb near the top and secure it with a screw.
Use a level to plumb one side jamb, and shim at three more
points along the jamb, spHCId evenly from the top to the bottom.
Secure that jamb, then repeat the process on the other side.
Once the frame is square and level, set the stationary panel in
plHCI in the outside channel (on whichever side you want the
stationary panel). Push the panel snugly against the side jamb,
then secure it with the brackets provided by the manufacturer.
Set the active panel in the inside channel, and test it to make sure
it rolls smoothly and fits snugly all along the side jamb. If not,
adjust the rollers to plumb the door or make it operate properly.
Install the latch according to the manufacturer's instructions.
From inside the house, stuff fiberglass insulation into the gap
between the door jamb and the wall framing. Make it snug, but
don't stuff it in too tightly. Install the outside trim, then the
interior casing.
On the outside, caulk around the outside trim where it meets the
siding. If necessary, finish the door according to the
Door and Frame Shims
Caulking Level
Screw Gun Steel Tape Measure
3" Drywall Screws Wood Filler
Caulking Gun Sawhorses
Fiberglass Sill Sealer Screwdriver
6d Finish Nails Finishing Materials

in this document.

Types of Skylights
Framing the Rough Opening
Installing the Skylight
Building the Ceiling Opening and Light Shaft
Safety Precautions
TYPES OF SKYLIGHTS
Many people worry about cutting holes in the roof, but adding a
skylight is actually easier than installing a window. Most
skylights come with flashing systems that will seal the roof
effectively. This brochure describes how to install a skylight and
build a light well to carry the light into the room.
There are two basic types of skylights: curb-mounted or frame in

plHCI. A curb-mounted skylight is raised above the plane of the
roof; it either sets on a wood frame curb or the curb is an integral
FIG. 1 - A curb-mounted skylight sets on a part of the unit (Fig. 1). A framed-in-plHCI skylight is installed
raised frame. The curb may be framed with flush with the plane of the structure, much like a vertical
lumber (bottom left) or an integral part of the
window. It is held in plHCI with L-shaped brackets (Fig. 2).
skylight (bottom right).
Curb-mounted skylights may be glazed with a clear acrylic dome
or with glass. Framed-in-plHCI skylights are glazed with glass.
Either may use insulating glass, and the glazing in top-of-the-line
skylights may have low emissivity coatings and argon gas fill for
added energy efficiency.
The flashing system on a curb-mounted skylight typically
consists of a head flashing, a sill flashing and two pieces of side
flashing that run the length of the skylight (Fig. 3). The head
flashing is slipped under the shingles above the opening. The
side flashings are slipped under both the head flashing and the
shingles on the side of the unit. The sill flashing goes under the
side flashings but is set over the shingles below the skylight. The
configuration allows water to run around and off the skylight.
A framed-in-plHCI skylight also has a solid head and sill

flashing, but the side flashing consists of a series of step shingles
that match the 5" exposure of each row of roofing (Fig. 3). Like a
curb-mounted skylight, the head flashing goes under the shingles
and the sill flashing goes under them. The step shingles are
woven into the roofing, slipped under each shingle.
Flashings may be made of galvanized steel or aluminum; most

are aluminum, often finished to match the color of the skylight
frame.
FIG. 2 - A framed-in-plHCI skylight sits nearly

flush with the surfHCI of the roof. It is set in the
opening rather than over it and held in plHCI with
steel brackets.
FIG. 3 - Skylight flashings consist of head

flashing, a sill flashing and either a side flashing or
a series of step shingles.
FRAMING THE ROUGH OPENING
A skylight framing assembly consists of three parts (Fig. 4):
The roof opening is framed with headersframing lumber run

horizontally across the opening, securely nailed to the rafters to
support the structure. Headers are cut from lumber the same size
as the rafters.
A curb-mounted skylight also requires a framed curb, typically

2x6s but usually specified by the skylight manufacturer (the
frame has to project far enough to accommodate the flashing).
The curb is set on the roof sheathing around the perimeter of the
opening, and the skylight is set on the curb.
The ceiling opening is framed in the same way as the roof

FIG. 4 -A skylight framing assembly consists of openingheaders are nailed between the ceiling joists to support
the roof opening, the light shaft and the ceiling the existing framing. Ceiling headers should be the same size as
opening. the ceiling joists.
The light shaft is the framing that connects the roof opening with
the ceiling opening. It is typically framed with 2x4s, insulated
like any interior wall and finished on the inside with drywall or
other material. The light shaft may be vertical or flaredwider at
the bottom than the top. A flared light shaft is a little more
difficult to frame but will admit more light.
To frame the opening for a skylight, first decide on the

approximate location of your skylight. It should be roughly
centered in the room.
Next, locate the ceiling joists, then realign the opening so it fits
between the joists. Depending on the size of your skylight, you
FIG. 5 - Locate the corners of the ceiling opening
may or may not have to cut the ceiling joists and rafters; many
closest to the outside wall, then use a plumb bob
to find the location of the roof opening.
skylights are made to fit between 16" or 24" on center joists and
rafters without removing any framing.
Mark the two corners of the ceiling opening closest to the outside
wall. Take care to make sure the points are parallel to the wall.
The width of the ceiling opening should match the rough
opening width of the skylight (specified by the manufacturer).
The length will vary, depending on the type of light shaft you
want.
Drill small holes through the ceiling at your marks and push two
pieces of stiff wire up into the attic so you can easily spot the
location from above.
Go up to the attic; if possible, bring a 2' by 4' piece of plywood

with you to lay across the ceiling joists so you won't accidentally
put a foot through the ceiling. Locate your corners and clear the
insulation away from the area. If you have to reroute electrical
wiring, always turn the power off first and double check by
testing a fixture on that circuit with an electrical tester.
FIG. 6 - Drive nails up through the roof to mark
the corners of the rough opening, then strip away
Use a plumb bob to locate the two points on the underside of the
the shingles and cut the sheathing with a circular roof that are directly above the lower corners of the ceiling
saw. opening. Mark those points on the roof (Fig. 5). Double check to
make sure they match the correct rough opening width, then
measure up the underside of the roof the specified rough opening
length. Drive four nails up through the roof to mark the corners
of your rough opening.
Go up to the roof and remove the shingles from around the

opening, far enough to allow room to install the flashing. Snap
chalk lines between the nails, then cut away the roofing felt with
a utility knife.
FIG. 7 - If your skylight will fit between existing
rafters, you'll only need a single header (left). If
Set your circular saw so the blade depth is slightly more than the
you have to cut a rafter, use double headers
(center). If the skylight will be plHCId in line with a thickness of the roof sheathing, then cut away the sheathing and
rafter, use double headers and fill in the opening remove it (Fig. 6).
with trimmer rafters (right).
How you frame the opening depends on the size and position of
your skylight. If the skylight will fit between two existing rafters
without cutting, simply cut two headers to fit between the rafters
(they should be the same material as the rafters, typically 2x6s)
and nail them in plHCI with 16d common nails, flush with the
cut edges of the sheathing (Fig. 7).
If you have to cut a rafter, framing is a little more complex. First,

nail two 2x4s across the rafters to provide temporary support
(Fig. 8). The 2x4s should be long enough to reach at least two
rafters on each side of the one that will be cut.
Then use a reciprocating saw to cut the rafter out of the opening
FIG. 8 - Before cutting the rafter, nail temporary
supports across the adjoining rafters to keep the
3" back from the edge of the sheathing on each side. Cut four
roof from sagging.
headers to span the distance between the uncut rafters on each
side of the opening. Nail the first pair flush against the two ends
of the cut rafter. Use three 16d common nails through the
existing rafters into the headers on each end and three more nails
through the header into the end of the cut rafter.
Then nail the second pair of headers in plHCI. Use 16d nails to
nail through the existing rafters into the ends of the header and a
pair of 8d nails every 16" to nail the two headers together.
INSTALLING THE SKYLIGHT
Curb-Mounted SkylightBuild the curb by nailing four 2x6s into a

box (the size is specified by the manufacturer). Square it, then
toenail it into plHCI over the opening with 8d galvanized nails.
Run a bead of caulking all around the top of the curb (unless the
manufacturer says not to), then set the skylight in plHCI and
fasten it down. ReplHCI the shingles, leaving enough working
spHCI between the edge of the shingles and the curb so you can
slip the flashing into plHCI.
Install the sill flashing first, according to the manufacturer's

instructions. As a rule, flashings are nailed into the curb and
sometimes cemented to the roof with plastic roof cement, but not
nailed to the roof.
Install the side flashing and fasten it in plHCI. If you're working

with step shingles, slip them under each row of roofing shingles,
working your way up from the bottom. Slip the base of the head
flashing under the shingles and set it in plHCI over the top of the
side flashing. Fasten it in plHCI. Go back to the attic and remove
any temporary supports.
Framed-in-PlHCI SkylightMount the brackets on the side of the

skylight, set it in the hole and fasten it in plHCI. Make sure the
skylight is square and not twisted in the hole.
Install the flashing as described above, or as specified by the

manufacturer. Go back to the attic and remove any temporary
supports.
BUILDING THE CEILING OPENING AND LIGHT SHAFT
From inside the room, find the other two corners of the ceiling
opening. Use a carpenter's square to make sure the opening is
square or rectangular. Use a keyhole saw to cut away the drywall.
Go back up to the attic. If you'll need to cut a ceiling joist, plHCI

temporary supports across the opening as described above, then
cut the joist 3" back from the edge of the drywall. If the light
shaft will be flared, cut the joist at the angle of the flare.
Install headers across the ceiling opening as you did for the roof
openinga single header at each end if no ceiling joists are cut or
FIG. 9 - A flared light shaft will maximize the light
double headers if a ceiling joist has been removed.
you get from your skylight.
Use a T-bevel to determine the angle of the rafters and ceiling
joists, then cut 2x4 studs for the corners of the light shaft, angled
on each end to fit flush against the rafters and ceiling joists.
Studs should be plHCId 16" on center around the opening; you
can use the corner studs as templates for the field studs across
the top and bottom of the opening.
Nail 2x2 cleats to the inside edges of the corner studs to act as
backing for the drywall. From the attic, nail rigid foam insulation
over the outside of the light shaft; then finish the inside of the
shaft with drywall (Fig. 10).
FIG. 10 - Finish the light shaft with drywall on

the inside and rigid foam insulation on the outside.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Always follow standard safety procedures for working on the

roof and using power equipment. When working on the roof,
always wear loose, comfortable clothing and rubber-soled shoes.
Set your ladder so the base is away from the building 1/4 the
height of the ladder plus the width of the soffit. Always wear eye
protection when working in the attic and when using power
equipment.
Skylight and Flashing Framing for Curb, Roof and Ceiling Headers
1x2 cleats 2x4s for Light Shaft
Drywall Rigid Foam Insulation
Level Steel Tape Measure
Utility Knife Pry Bar
Keyhole Saw Hammer
Chalk Line Carpenter's Square
Nails Plumb Bob
Circular Saw Tin Snips
Ladder Reciprocating Saw
T-Bevel Try Square
Roof Cement
in this document.

GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS
An easy-to-install ceiling fan can make a real difference in your

home's climateboth cooling and heatingat a far lower cost and
operating expense than almost any other item.
The installation begins with choosing where the fan should be

located. In almost all homes, the fan is installed in the center of
the room, replacing a central light fixture. This spot provides a
smooth air flow to most of the room.
Since a fan draws about the same power as a ceiling fixture, the
electrical circuit shouldn't be overloaded. But if your fan
includes lights, be sure the circuit it's on has enough extra
capacity to handle the load. If not, you must run a new circuit
with a new circuit breaker from the house main service panel or
subpanel to the fan.
If there is no central light fixture, you'll have to create a plHCI to

hang the ceiling fan. Then, you'll need to bring electrical power
to it. You can tap into an existing circuit to do this.
MOUNTING THE CEILING FAN
Start your installation by turning off the power to the light's

circuit breaker or fuse. Only then should you remove the light
fixture.
If there is no central light fixture, snap diagonal chalk lines from

opposite corners of the room to find its center. Determine
whether the lines cross exactly below a ceiling joist. If they do,
move aside just far enough between joists to let you fasten the
side of the fan's new junction box directly to the joist.
Cut a hole large enough for the junction box to be slipped in. If
it's next to the joist, drill holes in its side and screw it to the joist.
Installation between joists is OK, too. Fasten the box to a 2x4

header nailed between the joists. Sometimes, you can insert a
2x4 header through the junction box's hole, nailing it to each
joist. If not, you may need to open a larger access hole. Then,
patch the hole to close it again. (See Fig. 1 for a typical fan
mounting where there's access above the joists for header-
FIG. 1 - These are the parts of a typical ceiling
fan mounting.
nailing.)
You may choose to use a patented fan support unit designed to

be inserted through the normal junction box hole to save you
from opening a hole in the ceiling (Fig. 2).
Use only a metal junction box to support a ceiling fannever hang

the fan from a plastic box. Depending on the brand, style, and
size of your ceiling fanand your electrical code you may use a
4" or 3" octagonal junction box. (Some local codes don't permit
FIG. 2 - Patented hangers are easy to install
and relatively inexpensive.
the use of 3" boxes.)
The heaviest fan that should be supported by an outlet box is 35

lbs.. If it weighs more, the building structure must support it.
Whatever you do, make sure the junction box is supported well
enough to hold at least 50 lbs. That's the weight of an average
ceiling fan. Also, your mounting must be able to withstand
vibration while the fan is running. Even a well-balanced fan
creates some vibration when it runs.
You'll use a special beam mount when mounting a fan to a
beamed ceiling. Use one kind for a horizontal beam, another for
a pitched beam (Fig. 3). You may need an extender to lower the
fan to the proper level.
Fan-mounting is particularly important because any failure to

make things secure could allow your fan to fall from the ceiling.
FIG. 3 - Mounts for beam ceilings are available

for either horizontal or pitched beams.
ASSEMBLY
Fan assembly varies from brand to brand. Be sure to follow the

specific instructions with the unit you buy. Regardless of the
manufacturer's instructions, if the fan blades are less than a
screwdriver's length away from the ceiling, it may be best to
install the blades before hanging the fan.
FIG. 4 - Turn the motor so its wires are on top, The hanger pipe is usually plHCId into its hole on top of the
and plHCI the ceiling cover onto the hanger pipe. motor. The wires are drawn up in the center. A set screw is
tightened securely to make sure the pipe stays in plHCI after it is
threaded down.
Some fans have a separate motor hub into which the hanger pipe
mounts. In this case, you'll plHCI the actual motor housing over
the hub.
Other fans have a two-piece decorative ceiling cover to hide the

hole in the ceiling. It is installed after the fan has been hung on
the ceiling (Fig. 4).
Tighten the set screw well.

FIG. 5 - hook-style hangers fasten over pins Other models use a hook, with the hanger bracket designed to
that are attached to the ceiling. accept it (Fig. 5).
To attach the fan blades, set the motor unit down where it will be
stable. Often, the styrene foam packing for the motor housing
makes an excellent stabilizer on your worktable.
Most fan blades have a two-pronged attachment, using screws
that come through holes in the blades and into the flanges (fig.
6). These need to be drawn up securely, but not so tightly that the
threads are damaged or the laminated blade material is crushed.
On many fans you'll find the flanges, or prongs, also need to be
mounted to the motor housing. If this is the case, mount them
before the flanges are mounted to the blades themselves.
FIG. 6 - with the fan motor inverted, install the

flanges and then the blades.
HEIGHT BENEATH BLADES
Now, check the floor-to-ceiling height of the fan blades. You can
do this by measuring the floor-to-ceiling distance and subtracting
FIG. 7 - A ceiling fan should be no lower than 7' for the part of the fan that will extend below the ceiling down to
from the floor the higher the better. Also, it the lower blade surfHCI. An absolute minimum height of 7' is
needs at least 12" between the blades and the recommended (Fig. 7). This may be reinforced by building codes
ceiling. in your area.
If the floor-to-ceiling distance is too little, check into a low-

ceiling mount for your fan. With some models, the fan blade
height can be increased by as much as 10". Remember, though,
that you need at least 12" between the ceiling and the tops of the
fan blades for proper airflow (Fig. 7). Having 18" is better if the
spHCI is available.
MOUNTING THE FAN TO THE BOX
Install the hanger bracket on the box with screws and lock
washers. If no lock washers are supplied, get somethey prevent
fan vibration from loosening the screws over time.
The hanger bracket may accept either a half-ball hanger or a

hook-type hanger, depending on which kind your fan uses.
Either way, the hanger is carefully slipped into the bracket.
Next, the unit is wired, and the ceiling cover is slipped up to its
full height and tightened in plHCI.
FIG. 8 - The fan should be electrically bonded Be sure to connect the black house wires to the black fan wires,
to its grounded metal junction box using a bare and the white house wires to the white fan wires.
or green-insulated wire.
The fan should be electrically grounded to both the metal box
and the fan (Fig. 8). The grounding wires will be either green or
bare copper. A green grounding pigtail attached to the box by a
bonding screw will make your work easier. Wirenut the ground
wires from the box, the fan and the power supply together.
If the fan wobbles when it runs, its blades may be unbalanced.

To correct this, try interchanging two adjHCInt blades. If that
doesn't work, take all the blades off and weigh each one on a
food or postal scale. If any is underweight, tape a soft object
such as a pencil eraser or modeling clay to the top center of the
blade, making its weight the same as the others. Fan balancing
kits with detailed instructions are also available. Reinstall the
blades and the fan should run smoothly.
PROBLEM HANGING
When nothing else works for fan mounting, use a piece of good-
looking hardwood plywood as a fan-mount. It should be large
enough to extend over two joists. The size may be 18" x 18" or
26" x 26", or any variant that does the job.
Use brass screws in pilot-drilled holes to attach the plywood to

FIG. 9 - A hardwood plywood panel wil cover the ceiling joists. The screw length will vary, depending on the
the large hole in the ceiling made in building a
thickness of the plywood and plaster or plasterboard ceiling
secure mounting system.
below the joists. Use one screw every 6".
The plywood will have an access hole of proper size cut in its
center, and will serve as the main mounting member for the
junction box above it.
Finish the plywood with an outside corner molding, mitered at

the corners for a neat appearance (Fig. 9).
Or, you can get a surfHCI-mounting fixture box along with a

surfHCI conduit wiring system that meets electrical codes. This
allows you to do the wiring installation on the ceiling and wall,
rather than behind it.
You may wish to wire your new ceiling fan through a fan speed
control. This lets you set its operating speed smoothly and easily.
SWAG KIT USE
Swag kits are available if you wish to have a super-easy

installation and a degree of portability in a ceiling fan. These
replHCI the above-ceiling wiring job. In this case, though, the
hanger bracket is screwed directly into a ceiling joist (Fig. 10).
The swag kit is wired into the fan, and the fan assembled as
described earlier. Then slip it into the hanger bracket.
FIG. 10 - A swag kit lets the fan wiring run
across the ceiling and down to a convenient wall The chain and cord are hung from hooks carried across the
receptacle.
ceiling, toward a wall and down the wall, where the cord plugs
into a handy receptacle.
A swag-mounted ceiling fan can be taken down in a few minutes

and moved to another location.
ELECTRICAL SAFETY
Use extra care when working with electricity. Less current than
it takes to light a 60-watt bulb can be lethal.
All wiring should conform to local electrical codes as well as to

the current National Electrical Code (NEC). You can probably
find a copy of the NEC at your local library.
Never trust a light switch to render a fixture "dead," because

sometimes the power enters at the fixture, even when the switch
is located in the circuit beyond it.
Turn off the circuit you're working on by switching off a circuit

breaker or by unscrewing a fuse (the house main switch should
be off when handling fuses). Then padlock the panel if you can.
Make sure the circuit is truly "dead" before touching any wires
or terminals. Check with a high-voltage neon tester. Test from
the black wires to a grounded metal box or other good ground,
then to the white wires. Also test from the white wires to a
ground. Since there may be more than one circuit inside an
outlet box, before you take off a cover, see that all of its circuits
are off. Also, be sure your tester is functioning by first trying it
in a live receptacle.
Test your finished work with the power on using the neon tester.
Check black to white and black to a ground. It should light. Test
white to ground. It should not light.
If you aren't knowledgeable about working around electricity,

call in a professional.
Ceiling Fan Mounting Kit
Swag Kit Lock Washers
Low-Ceiling Mount Angled-Ceiling Mount
Patented Support Unit 4" x 1-1/2" Octagon Electrical Box
Neon Test Light No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver
Claw Hammer 3/16" Slotted Screwdriver
Speed Controller Pliers
Wallboard or Compass Saw Soft Cloth
Stud Locator Ladder
Electrician's Pliers Wire-Stripper
Cable-Ripper SurfHCI-Wiring System
Cable, Switch/Outlet Box, Switch, Box Connectors, Wirenuts, Switch Cover, Bonding Screw,
Staples
in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to replHCI or install electric switches to save you time and
effort. Before beginning any electrical repairs, turn off the power at your service panel, fuse box or
breaker box. If you know which fuse or breaker controls the circuit you will be working on, remove
that fuse or trip that breaker. If there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main
breaker.
Caution: Tripping the main breaker or removing the main fuse will usually shut off all power to the
house. Take the time to read the directions thoroughly to help ensure a satisfactory job.
THREE BASIC TYPES OF WALL SWITCHES
Toggle Switch
The popular toggle switch has an arrow-shaped armature that
floats between the contact points when the switch is in the off
position (A, Fig. 1). This armature comes in contact with both
terminals when the switch is flipped to the on position (B), thus
providing a continuous flow of electrical current to the light or
appliance.
FIG. 1 - The toggle switch floats between contact
points in the off position (A), and contacts both Mercury Switch
terminals in the on position (B). The mercury switch has a small hollow cylinder, partially filled
with mercury (Fig. 2). In the off position, the small contact point
is above the mercury level (A). When flipped to the on position,
the contact point is immersed in mercury (B). This establishes
contact between the two terminals and provides power to the
light or appliance.
Silent Switch
FIG. 2 - Electrical power is supplied when the The silent switch has a steel spring armature that is pressed away
contact point is immersed in mercury. from the bottom terminal when the switch is turned off (A, Fig.
3). Flipping the switch lever to the on position moves the steel
spring back against the contact point (B), thus establishing
contact in the circuit.
For installation purposes, all three types of switches can be used

interchangeably.
FIG. 3 - The silent switch has a steel spring

armature that connects and disconnects the
power.
INSTALLING THE SINGLE-POLE TOGGLE SWITCH
The simplest switch system the single-pole toggle switch is

illustrated in Fig. 4. The ordinary single-pole toggle switch
provides a means for breaking or feeding electrical current to a
light, appliance, etc.
The single-pole toggle switch has two brass terminal screws.

One wire (usually the black) is cut, then is connected to the two
brass terminals. The other wire (white) is uninterrupted from the
FIG. 4 power source to the light or fixture.
When connecting a wire to the terminal screw of a switch,

always turn the loop on the end of the wire in the same direction
as the screw threads, as shown in illustration A, Fig 5. If the loop
is turned in the opposite direction (B), tightening the screw will
loosen the loop.
If the wire connects to the terminal screw and then runs on, cut
and strip the wire on both sides of the cut. Using a 6" piece of
FIG. 5 - Always turn the wire loop in the direction
wire with both ends stripped (sometimes called a pigtail) and a
of the screw threads.
wirenut, fasten the three wires together. Connect the pigtail to
the terminal, as in Fig. 6.
Use wirenuts or screw-on connectors to save time and effort
when you must make a splice in any electrical wire (Fig. 7).
Always cover any soldered connection with insulating tape. If
soldered sections are rough, apply an extra layer of tape. Insulate
the wire an additional inch or two beyond the soldered
connection in each direction.
White wires should generally be attached to light colored

FIG. 6 terminal screws such as silver. Black wires should generally be
attached to dark colored screws such as brass colored. If the
terminal screws are the same color, either wire can generally be
attached to either terminal. Green terminal screws are for
grounding wires.
FIG. 7 - Wirenuts or screw-on connectors save

time and effort.
INSTALLING SWITCH OUTSIDE MAIN WIRING RUN
Use an ordinary toggle switch for installations outside the main

wiring run. Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the
light fixture, connect the black wire from the switch to the black
wire from the light fixture. Connect the white wire from the
switch to the black wire from the power source (Fig. 8).
CAUTION: Anytime it is necessary to connect a white and

black wire together, take the time to paint the white wire black at
FIG. 8 - Connect a two-wire cable to the black both ends to indicate that the white wire is attached to a power
wires in the last fixture on the wiring run. source. Connect the white wire from the light fixture to the white
wire from the power source.
At the light switch, connect the black wire to one terminal and
the white wire to the other. Remember, a green screw is always
for the ground wire.
INSTALLING IN-LINE SWITCH FOR CONTROL OF ONE
LIGHT
Shut off all current at the main service panel. A third wire (red,
Fig. 9) must be added to the power cable for this switch
arrangement. The red wire serves as a black wire from the switch
to the light or outlet which is to be controlled.
Study the diagram in Fig. 9 carefully. You will note that the
white wire feeds continuously from the power source to all
fixtures. The black wire is pigtailed on one terminal of the
FIG. 9 - This illustrates the arrangement for an in-
line switch that controls only one light on a two- switch, while the red wire attaches to the other terminal. The
light line. black wire then runs continuously through to the light or outlet
which is not controlled, while the red wire runs from the switch
terminal to connect with the black wire on the controlled light or
outlet.
This arrangement allows the switch to control the first light or

outlet while power continues uninterrupted to the second fixture.
INSTALLING SWITCH AND CONVENIENCE OUTLET IN

SAME BOX
Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the double-
switch box (Fig. 10), connect a pigtail to the brass terminal on
the outlet and another pigtail to either of the terminals on the
switch. Wirenut these two pigtails and the black wire from the
light fixture together. Connect the white wire from the light
fixture to the silver terminal on the outlet. Connect the red wire
FIG. 10 - Use this as a guide for installing a from the light fixture to the other terminal on the switch.
switch and convenience outlet in the same box.
At the light fixture, wirenut the white wires from the power
source, the light fixture and the switch together. Wirenut the
black wires from the power source and the switch together.
Wirenut the red wire from the switch and the black wire from the
light fixture together.
INSTALLING TWO PARALLEL SWITCHES FOR

CONTROL OF TWO SEPARATE LIGHTS
Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the switch box,
attach a pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 1 (Fig. 11).
Connect a second pigtail to one of the terminals on switch 2.
Wirenut these two pigtails and the black wire from the light
fixture together. Connect the red wire from the light fixture to
the other terminal on switch 1. Connect the white wire from the
FIG. 11 - This illustration shows the arrangement light fixture to the other terminal on switch 2. Be sure to paint
for two switches in one switch box for control of the white wire black.
two lights.
At light fixture 1, wirenut the black wire from the power source
and the black wire leading to light fixture 2 together. Wirenut the
white wires from the power source, light fixture 1 and light
fixture 2 together. Wirenut the black wire from light fixture 1
and the red wire to light fixture 2 together.
At light fixture 2, wirenut the black wires from light fixture 1

and the switches together. Wirenut the white wires from light
fixture 1 and light fixture 2 together. Wirenut the red wires from
switch 1 and light fixture 1 together. Wirenut the white wire
from switch 2 and the black wire from light fixture 2 together.
Be sure to paint the white wire black.
HOW A THREE-WAY SWITCH WORKS
The illustration in Fig. 12 uses open-knife switches to

demonstrate how a three-way switch works. Wire No. 1 feeds
directly from the power source to the light fixture. However,
power must be fed through two wires for the light to function.
The flow of power through wire No. 2 is continued or broken by
the two switches, as illustrated.
FIG. 12 - This simple illustration demonstrates
how a three-way switch operates. Power through wire No. 2 reaches the first switch at the center or
common terminal (A). If the knife-switch handle were in
position (B), the current would flow through to terminal (D).
However, this arrangement would not provide a continuous
power flow since the knife switch, as illustrated, is at position
(G). The light bulb would not be illuminated.
Since the first switch is at position (C), the current flows directly
through terminal (E) to terminal (F), then through handle (G) to
turn on the light. Note that when either handle is plHCId in the
opposite position, the circuit is broken and the light is not
illuminated.
Note also that if you swing either handle to the opposite position,
the current flow is made continuous and the light goes on again.
Obviously, knife switches are not used in an electrical
installation. They are used here simply to illustrate what happens
inside an ordinary three-way switch when it is installed.
THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT
CONTROL BEYOND SWITCHES
Shut off all current at the main service panel. At the light fixture,
wirenut the white wires from the power source and the light
fixture together (Fig. 13). Wirenut the black wires from the
power source and the switches together. Wirenut the black wire
from the light fixture and the white wire from the switches
together. Paint the end of the white wire black.
At switch 1, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is

marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the black
wire to either of the two remaining terminals. Attach the white
FIG. 13 - Three-way switches control the lights wire to the last terminal.
beyond the switches.
At switch 2, locate the terminal on the three-way switch that is
marked as common and attach the red wire. Attach the white
wire from switch 1 to either of the two remaining terminals.
Paint the end of the wire black. Attach the black wire from the
light fixture to the last terminal. Wire the black wire from switch
1 and the white wire from the light fixture together. Paint the end
of the white wire black.
THREE-WAY SWITCHES FOR LIGHT

CONTROL BETWEEN SWITCHES
Shut off all current at the main service panel. At switch 1, find
the terminal marked as common and attach the red wire (Fig.
14). Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining
terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.
At switch 2, find the terminal marked as common and attach the

red wire. Attach the white wire to either of the two remaining
terminals. Attach the black wire to the last terminal.
At the light fixture, wirenut the two red wires from the switches
together. Wirenut the two white wires from the switches
together. Wirenut the black wires from the power source and
switch 1 together. Wirenut the white wires from the power
source and the light fixture together. Wirenut the black wires
from the light fixture and switch 2 together.
FIG. 14 - Three-way switches control the lights

between switches.
Screwdriver Two-Wire Feed Cable
Three-Wire Feed Cable Side-Cutting Pliers
Wirenuts or Scew-on Connectors Outlet Boxes
Knife for Stripping Wire Cable Connectors
Toggle Switches Keyhole Saw
Pigtails Three-Way Switches
Insulating Tape Cable Straps
Hand Cleaner
in this document.

Take some time to read the following tips and instructions on how to install outdoor wiring. These
instructions can help you save time and effort, while ensuring a safe and satisfying installation. In this
document you will find information about:
Basic Rules for Outdoor Lighting Installations

Weatherproof Switches and Outlets
Underground Installation From the House
Attaching Lighting Fixtures & Outlets to Buried Cable
Installing Post Lantern Yard Lights
Proper Grounding of Outdoor Fixtures
Installing Timer Switches in Outdoor Lighting
FIG. 1 - Conduit must be used to cover lead BASIC RULES FOR OUTDOOR LIGHTING
cable where it is exposed or where it bends
underground.
INSTALLATIONS
Your first step should be to check local codes regarding outdoor

lighting. Be sure to follow these code requirements carefully.
Always use type UF cable for installations requiring

underground wiring. The UF implies that there must be a fuse or
breaker inside the house at the starting point of the underground
wiring installation.
For your outdoor lighting project, use only those materials that
have an Underwriter's Laboratory (UL) approval.
Cable used for underground installations must contain a

grounding conductor. Outdoor fixtures must be grounded for
complete safety.
Use conduit to protect the cable where it is exposed above

ground and where bends are made below ground (Fig. 1).
Some local codes may require you to cover the entire cable with
conduit.
Many local codes now require outdoor circuits to be protected

with GFIs, Ground Fault Interrupters. There are two basic types
of GFIs. One is designed to be installed in a circuit breaker box.
The other is designed to fit into outlet boxes. Check your local
code.
Always bury any underground cable at least 18" deep, but 24" is
preferable. Cables buried at least 24" deep are less likely to be
bothered by spading forks and other tools commonly used
around the yard.
For any outside wiring installation, always use weatherproof

equipment, such as boxes, receptacles, etc.
Remember to shut off the electrical current at the main switch

before starting any underground wiring tie-in.
WEATHERPROOF SWITCHES AND OUTLETS
Weatherproof switches and outlet boxes are available in both

flush-mount or surfHCI-mount styles.
Fig. 2 shows a flush-mounted switch and a flush-mounted

FIG. 2 - Flush-Mounted Switch (on left) and receptacle. These must always be installed in a weatherproof
Flush-Mounted Receptacle (on right).
metal switch or outlet box.
Fig. 3 shows a surfHCI-mounted switch and outlet. These are

contained in their own weatherproof boxes and can be mounted
directly to any flat surfHCI.
Fig. 4 shows a weatherproof box. These boxes can be mounted

on posts or conduit when you're installing any switch or
receptacle, other than the surfHCI-mounted type.
The flush-mounted and surfHCI-mounted switches and

receptacles are designed to be completely weather resistant when
they are installed correctly.
FIG. 3 - SurfHCI-Mounted Switch (on left),

SurfHCI-Mounted Receptacle (on right).
FIG. 4 - Weatherproof Box.
UNDERGROUND INSTALLATION FROM THE HOUSE
Before you begin, shut off the electrical current at the main
switch box.
For an underground wiring installation, mount a breaker or a fuse

box in a location similar to that illustrated in Fig. 5. The breaker
box should start the installation no matter what type of cable you
are using.
Run conduit from the breaker box through the wall to where the
weatherproof elbow will be mounted on the outside wall (Fig. 5).
Continue the conduit down from the weatherproof elbow to

where it bends, 18" to 24" below ground. Remember, conduit is
generally required where the cable bends underground (Fig. 5).
Mount the conduit to the building foundation with conduit

connectors (see D, Fig. 1).
FIG. 5 - The fuse box is the beginning of any
underground cable installation.
Fig. 1 shows the components for wiring with conduits. (A)
shows the conduit itself. (B) illustrates an adapter for attaching
thin-walled conduit to rigid conduit. (C) is a coupling for
connecting two pieces of conduit. (D) shows the connector used
for attaching a piece of conduit to a weatherproof box. (E) is the
pipe strap you should use to fasten the conduit to the wall about
every 6' on exposed runs and about every 10' on concealed runs.
Your local code may require that the entire underground cable be
covered with conduit. The main purpose of the conduit is to
FIG. 6 - The conduit bender enables you to protect the cable from spading tools used in the yard.
easily bend thin-walled conduit.
Fig. 6 shows a conduit bender and the proper method for
inserting and bending thin-walled conduit. With care and
practice, you will learn to bend conduit easily.
Insert the cable through the weatherproof elbow (Fig. 5), and
then down through the conduit to the 18" to 24" level where it is
to be buried. Pull the cable tightly through the weatherproof
elbow and reattach the cover.
ATTACHING LIGHTING FIXTURES & OUTLETS TO

BURIED CABLE
Fig. 7 illustrates various lighting fixtures and outlet boxes that

you can connect to the buried cable at any point. It's important
FIG. 7 - You can connect various lighting fixtures to plan your yard lighting carefully before starting the job.
and outlet boxes to the buried cable at any point.
Plan ahead to determine where to install weatherproof outlet
boxes (Fig. 7). These outlet boxes are especially handy around
patios and recreational areas of your yard. They provide readily
accessible receptacles for appliances, record players, radios,
Christmas lights, etc.
Weatherproof outlet boxes also provide handy outlets for spike

lights, electric lawn mowers, electric trimmers, etc.
Install protective conduit above ground where any weatherproof

outlet box or elbow is installed.
INSTALLING POST LANTERN YARD LIGHTS
Dig a hole about 2' deep with an ordinary post hole digger or
tiling spade. Run cable up through the lamppost, then fill the
hole with about 12" of concrete mix. Insert the lamppost into the
concrete mix in an upright, plumb position. Use a long level or
plumb bob to make sure the lamp is exactly straight. Remember,
FIG. 8 - Use a curved piece of conduit at the you cannot straighten it after the concrete hardens.
bend position below the post to protect the turn.
Use a bent piece of conduit to protect the turn in the cable below
the post (Fig. 8). This eliminates the danger of trouble at the turn.
You may want to use temporary stakes and guy wires to hold the
post lantern in an upright position until the concrete dries (Fig.
7). Using four guy wires in opposite directions ensures a secure
post.
After the concrete is completely dry, fill in the hole with dirt and
seed around the post for a neat appearance.
PROPER GROUNDING OF OUTDOOR FIXTURES
If the conduit used in underground wiring does not connect to a

grounded box, cable with a grounding conductor must be used.
Every outdoor lamp part exposed to the touch must also be

grounded. See Fig. 9 for one way to properly ground an ordinary
post lantern. Use this same grounding procedure for almost any
outside lighting installation.
FIG. 9 - Any part of a lamp exposed to the Ground all weatherproof outlet boxes to an outdoor grounded
touch must be grounded. box. Fig. 10 illustrates how to do this.
Fig. 11 illustrates how conduit can connect to outlet and switch

boxes. Some conduit connects with a nut and bushing (A), while
other conduit connects by means of a nut and set screw (B).
Ground Fault Interrupters are required in most areas for outdoor

circuits. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the
installation of the type of GFI you decide to use. Two basic types
are illustrated in Fig. 12.
FIG. 10 - Outdoor outlet boxes must also be

grounded.
FIG. 11 - Conduit may connect to outlets and

switch boxes by nuts or screws.
FIG. 12 - There are two basic types of Ground
Fault Interrupters (GFIs).
INSTALLING TIMER SWITCHES IN OUTDOOR

LIGHTING
Many of the newer outdoor lights come equipped with

photoelectric eyes or motion sensors, or both. The photoelectric
eye turns the light on in the evening and off in the morning. The
motion detector turns the light on when it senses motion in the
range of the detector. If your light does not have this type of
control built in, you may wish to add a timer, photoelectric eye
or a motion detector. These devices allow for automatic
operation and a greater sense of security.
Fig. 7 illustrates where to install a permanent timer switch to turn

an outdoor light on or off at a pre-set time.
Permanent timer switches are readily available and can be pre-set

FIG. 13 - Permanent timer switch (top), for any on/off times (Fig. 13). Follow the manufacturer's
Portable timer switch (bottom). instructions carefully when installing a permanent timer switch.
You may also use portable timer switches with plug-in

equipment for outdoor lighting. Use this type of timer switch as
you would any other appliance.
Conduit Conduit Adapters
Tiling Spade Weatherproof Elbows
Concrete Mix Weatherproof Switches
Side-Cutter Pliers Timer Switch
Hacksaw Stakes
Electrical Tape Ground Fault Interrupter
Temporary Guy Wire Conduit Bender
Conduit Couplings & Connectors Weatherproof Receptacles
Hacksaw Blades Underground Feed Cable (UF Cable)
Hammer Screwdriver
this brochure has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated
in this document.

Use these tips and instructions for adding new electrical wiring. Take a few minutes to read the
directions thoroughly. Following these instructions can save you time and effort and ensure a safe
installation.
BASIC PRINCIPLES OF GOOD WIRING
Before beginning any electrical repair, shut off the power. Remove
the fuse or trip the breaker for the circuit you will be working on in
your service panel. Use a neon tester to be sure the power is off. If
there is any doubt, you can remove the main fuse or trip the main
breaker. Remember: Removing the main fuse or tripping the main
breaker will usually shut off the power to the entire house.
Electrical wires are color coded to prevent wiring errors.
White wires almost always connect to other white wires or to

chrome terminal screws on switches and receptacles.
Some wiring devicessuch as receptaclesare back-wired by pushing

the bare wire end into spring grip holes. These wiring devices are
plainly labeled to show which color goes into each spring grip hole.
FIG. 1 - Basic principles of good wiring.
Switches are nearly always connected into black wires in cables.
The only exception is where a cable is extended, making it
necessary for the white wire to play the role of the black wire.
When this is necessary, the white wires should be painted black to
prevent future wiring errors.
Study the wiring diagram in Fig. 1. This will help you understand
the basic principles of good wiring. Also, find a good electrical
how-to book. It's one book every homeowner should keep on hand
for ready reference.
Most home wiring is complete with either No. 14 gauge or No. 12

gauge wiring. No. 14 is the smallest wiring permitted under most
codes.
Always use the same size cable for a continuation of any extended
wiring circuit.
CONNECT NEW WIRING TO LAST OUTLET IN CABLE
New wiring should be connected to the last outlet in a run of cable.

To locate the last outlet in the run, shut off the current. Remove the
cover plates from each outlet on the circuit. The last outlet in the
run has wires connected to only two of the four terminal screws
(Fig. 2).
FIG. 2 - Attach the new wiring to the unused The two unused terminal screws on the last receptacle serve as a
screws on the device in the last receptacle. starting point for wiring to a new outlet.
ATTACHING CABLE FOR NEW WIRING
Shut off the power to the circuit you will be working on at the
service panel.
Loosen the screws holding the receptacle in the box and remove it,
as shown in Fig. 2.
Attach the white wire to the chrome terminal, the black wire to the
FIG. 3 - The diagram illustrates how to continue
wiring from the last receptacle in a wiring run.
brass terminal on the receptacle and to the box, if the box is metal.
Use care to match the size of the original cable. If No. 12 wire is
used, continue with No. 12. If No. 14 wire is used, use No. 14 for
continuing the cable. The size of the cable is usually stamped on
the side of the cable.
New wiring can be connected to continue the run beyond the last
receptacle (Fig. 3). Note that the new wires are pulled through
knockout plugs in the back of the outlet box.
ADDING NEW WIRING FROM A JUNCTION BOX
New wiring can also be tied into a junction box, unless the wiring
in the junction box is already at maximum capacity.
Before tying in at a junction box, always trHCI the cables leading

to the box to check the voltage. Be sure you are not connecting a
120-volt outlet to a run of wire providing 240 volts for larger
appliances.
FIG. 4
To tie in new wiring at a junction box, first shut off the current at
the service panel.
Locate the main supply cable coming into the junction box from
the service panel. Locate the supply wire by tracing the white
wires. All white wires in the junction box will be attached to the
white wire on the supply line (Fig. 4).
Knock out the unused plug on the junction box and run the new
line from the box as illustrated (Fig. 4). Be sure to use a cable
clamp to secure the cable to the junction box.
TYING IN NEW WIRING AT A CEILING LIGHT
You can tie in new wiring at a ceiling light if the light is not
controlled by a switch.
Shut off the current at the service panel.
Tie white wires to white wires and black wires to black wires, as
illustrated in Fig. 5.
Connect the ground wires as illustrated. If you are using a metal

box, attach them to the box as well as the light fixture.
FIG. 5 - New wiring can be tied in at a ceiling
light when the light is not switch controlled. Knock out an opening in the outlet box, and continue the new
wiring as illustrated.
ALWAYS MATCH CONNECTORS TO

TYPE OF CABLE USED
Some boxes come with built-in connectors.
Armored cable connectors have inner rims to hold fiber bushings

at the end of the cable.
Nonmetallic cable connectors are designed to grip the installation
around the cable with a two-screw clamp.
Regardless of the type of cable used, always leave about 6" to 8" of
wiring in the box to allow plenty of wire for making easy
connections.
You can tighten the nut on either type of cable connector by

placing a screwdriver in the notch and tapping the screwdriver
lightly.
MAKE ALL CONNECTIONS IN APPROVED BOXES
Always remember that connections must be made in an approved

box (Fig. 6). Never connect one cable to another by an open-line
splice.
All switch, outlet, and junction boxes must be positioned so they

are always accessible.
FIG. 6 - All connections must be made in an
approved box. You can easily remove knockout plugs with a nail punch,
screwdriver or metal rod.
RUNNING NEW CABLE BETWEEN MULTIPLE FLOORS
Drill a hole through the floor from bottom to top, as illustrated in

Fig. 7. Be sure the hole is drilled into the recessed area behind the
wall rather than in the open. Be sure to use a bit that's large enough
to permit free passage of the wiring cable.
Run the cable through the newly drilled hole to the desired location
for the new receptacle or switch (Fig. 7).
Bring the cable through the opening by using a weight on the end
of a string and a wire with a hook on the end (Fig. 8).
FIG. 7 - Drill a hole through the floor and run the Using this same technique, you can add one outlet to another by
cable to the new outlet. drilling up through the floor, pulling the cable under the floor, and
then running it to the desired position on the opposite wall (Fig. 9).
The same wiring can be pulled through for either receptacles or
switches.
FIG. 8 - The new cable can be pulled though

with a string, weight and wire.
FIG. 9 - Cable can be run from one outlet to
another.
ADDING NEW WIRING FROM BOXES IN CEILING
If your home has an unfinished attic, it may be easier to add new

wiring by attaching it to boxes in the ceiling (Fig. 10). In this way,
gravity works for you rather than against you.
Attach the cable to the box as previously described.
Cut a hole in the wall at the desired location for the switch or
receptacle, and run the cable from the box in the ceiling to the new
FIG. 10 - It is often easier to add new cable from outlet location (Fig. 10).
ceiling boxes.
Bring the new cable through the wall and ceiling by cutting and
drilling holes in and through the wall, the 2x4 plate, and the ceiling
(Fig. 11). A special fish tape is available for these types of jobs.
FIG. 11 - Cable can be "fished" through with

special fish tape.
ADDING NEW WIRING ON THE SAME WALL
You can connect new cable from an existing outlet to a new outlet
on the same wall by running it inside the wall (Fig. 12). Mark the
approximate location of the new outlet. Using a stud finder locate
and mark the wall studs. Start one stud before the existing outlet
FIG. 12 - New cable can be run along and end one stud after the new outlet.
the baseboard to a new outlet.
Mark the exact location of the new box. Make it the same height as
the existing box. Do not locate it over a stud. Using a drywall or
keyhole saw, cut the opening for the new box.
Using a utility knife and a drywall saw, cut a strip of drywall about
3" wide out of the wall, below the outlets. Start at the center of the
first stud you marked and end at the center of the last stud; watch
for nails as you cut. Carefully remove the drywall strip.
Using a hand or circular saw, make two cuts 1" apart and 3/4" deep
in each of the exposed studs. Using a hammer and a chisel, remove
the wood between the two saw cuts.
Be sure the power is off to the existing outlet. Remove the cover
plate and the receptacle. Remove one of the knockouts in the
bottom of the box. Run the new wire behind the wall and up
through the knockout in the box. Tighten the clamp and attach the
wires. If the box does not have a clamp, plHCI a wire clamp on the
FIG. 13 - Cut an opening in the wall new cable. Tighten the screw to hold the clamp on the wire. Be
opposite the existing box. sure the nut is off the wire clamp and run the wire up to the box as
before. Feed the threaded end of the clamp up through the
knockout, replHCI the nut and tighten. ReplHCI the receptacle and
the cover plate.
On the new box, remove one of the knockouts in the bottom of the
box. If the box you are using is a self-clamping box, insert the box
into the wall and tighten. If not, insert the box into the wall, insert
a Madison hanger on each side of the box, and bend the tabs over
into the box to tighten.
Finish running the wire from the existing box through the notches
and up behind the wall into the box as before. Clamp the wire and
install the receptacle as in Fig. 3. Install the cover plate, turn on the
power, and test the circuit with a neon tester. Shut off the power
again to safely finish the project.
Nail metal cable protectors to the exposed studs over the notches.
ReplHCI the drywall strip you removed earlier. Use the spackling
compound and drywall tape to complete the installation.
Cable can be pulled from an existing box on one wall to a new

outlet on the opposite side of the same wall (Fig. 13).
Attach a cable to the existing receptacle in the box as previously

described. Allow ample slack in the cable to permit easy
connection to the new box to be installed on the opposite wall.
Bring the cable through the new opening with a wire, as illustrated
FIG. 14 - If the new box is not near a in Fig. 13.
stud, it can be held in plHCI by box
supports. Connect the cable to the new box, attach the desired receptacle,
and mount the box to the wall with box supports if it is not near a
stud (Fig. 14).
Two-Wire Cable Switch Boxes
Switches Side Cutter Pliers
Screwdriver Wirenuts
Extra-Long Bit Chisel
Conduit Drywall or Keyhole Saw
Fish Tape Three-Wire Cable
Outlet Boxes Receptacles
Electrical Tape BrHCI
1/4" Drill Ripping Bar
Cable Connectors Wire
Pigtails Neon Tester
Hand or Circular Saw Stud Finder

Madison Hangers Hammer
Drywall Tape Spackling Compound
Cable Protector Plates
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions for installing doorbells, buzzers or chimes. Take a few minutes to read the
directions thoroughly. Following both these and manufacturers' instructions can save you time and effort
while helping you achieve a satisfying finish. Inside this document you will find information about:
Basic Information About Doorbells, Buzzers, or Chimes

Information About the Transformer
Installing a Single-button Doorbell
Wiring for Buttons on Front & Back Doors
Wiring for a Backdoor Buzzer & a Front Doorbell
Wiring Arrangement for Combination Bell & Buzzer
Locating the Transformer in the Basement
Wiring Door Chimes
Wiring a Four-note Chime
Locating Trouble in Bells & Chimes
BASIC INFORMATION ABOUT DOORBELLS,

BUZZERS OR CHIMES
Wireless doorbells, buzzers and chimes consist of two units. The

pushbutton unit is battery operated. The sound unit runs on
household current provided by a regular outlet.
Most of today's doorbells and buzzers operate on 10 volts. Most

modern door chimes operate on 16 volts.
Be sure the transformer you purchase with a doorbell, buzzer or

chime is designed to provide the correct voltage for the mechanism
you plan to install.
When you replHCI an older doorbell or buzzer with a new chime

unit, you will probably have to replHCI the transformer too. The
new transformer will provide the required voltage output.
If you are installing a battery-operated unit, you will not need to

worry about transformers or power sources. These units are
attractive enough to be installed on a wall in a room. Follow the
instructions for button installation that matches the type of battery-
powered unit you havebell, buzzer, chime or combination.
INFORMATION ABOUT THE TRANSFORMER
On the newer doorbell, buzzer and chime units, the transformer is

built into the unit. This eliminates the need for a separate
transformer. When working with older systems you will need a
separate transformer.
FIG. 1 - A transformer reduces the normal 120- The 16-volt transformer needed for chimes is slightly larger than
volt power to 10 or 16 volts. the 10-volt transformer used for bells or buzzers.
Both transformers are relatively small and fit into small areas such
as outlet boxes.
A transformer (Fig. 1) reduces normal 120-volt power to 10 or 16

volts, thus adapting regular current to low-voltage equipment such
as chimes, buzzers and bells.
A transformer usually has two permanent wiresone white and one

blackdesigned to provide power to the unit from the power source.
Two attachment screws are mounted on the opposite side of the

FIG. 2 - Most transformers are mounted directly transformer for attaching low-voltage wires that in turn are
on the junction box. connected to the bell, buzzer or chime (Fig. 1).
Most transformers are designed so they can be mounted directly to

an outlet or junction box (Fig. 2). The primary power source wires
can then be run directly into the box.
If the transformer is not mounted directly to the outlet or junction

box, the connecting 120-volt wires should always run through safe,
insulated connectors and be spliced inside the box.
Use No. 18 bell wire to connect to the two terminal screws on the
low-voltage side of the transformer. Even though the voltage on
these transformers is very low, you must still practice the rules of
safety. Turn off the power before you start to work.
Use insulated staples to hold the bell wire in plHCI. It is normally

run along baseboards or in other exposed areas in a room.
INSTALLING A SINGLE-BUTTON DOORBELL
The simplest doorbell or buzzer installation is the wiring illustrated

in Fig. 3. In this instance, a button is mounted on one door only to
operate the buzzer or bell.
One wire runs unbroken from the terminal screw on the button of
the bell or buzzer to the terminal screw on the transformer. The
second wire runs from the button to one of the terminal screws on
the bell, then from the second terminal screw back to the other
FIG. 3 - This simple wiring system is used for
screw on the transformer (Fig. 3).
single-button doorbells.
The button can be mounted on any dooras far away from the bell
as you'd likeand the bell and transformer can be mounted in any
concealed location.
WIRING FOR BUTTONS ON FRONT
& BACK DOORS
When you would like to have doorbell buttons on both the front
and back doors, one wire goes directly from the terminal screws on
both the front and backdoor buttons to one of the terminal screws
on the transformer (Fig. 4).
The second wire goes directly from the other terminal screw on
both buttons to the terminal screws on the bell (Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - The illustration shows the wiring for
bells at the front and back doors. Finally, a third wire connects to the left terminal screw on the bell
and to the other terminal screw on the transformer (Fig. 4).
One disadvantage to this system is that the person hearing the bell
from inside the house never knows whether to answer the front or
back door since both buttons activate the same bell sound.
WIRING FOR A BACKDOOR BUZZER & A FRONT

DOORBELL
One way to solve this problem is by installing a bell and a buzzer.

Try using a buzzer at the back door and a bell at the front door
(Fig. 5).
Use the wiring system shown in Fig. 5 for wiring a buzzer and a
FIG. 5 - Use this system for wiring for a buzzer bell at two different locations. The wiring is basically the same as
to the back door and a bell to the front door.
in Fig. 4, except the buzzer is wired in between the terminal screw
on the backdoor button and the terminal screw on the bell.
The buzzer, bell and transformer can be concealed in any location.

This works well if you already have either a bell or buzzer
installed. If you do not, consider a combination bell and buzzer
unit to simplify installation and reduce cost.
WIRING ARRANGEMENT FOR COMBINATION BELL &

BUZZER
A combination bell and buzzer gives you a buzzer for the back
door and a bell for the front door in one unit (Fig. 6). You'll notice
that this unit has three terminal screws rather than two.
Follow the wiring arrangement shown in Fig. 6 for installing the

FIG. 6 - The wiring arrangement for a combination bell and buzzer unit so the bell rings when the front
combination bell and buzzer is shown here. door button is pushed and the buzzer is activated at the back door.
The bell and buzzer should be plHCId so that the sound can be
heard throughout the house. The sounds from bells and buzzers
hidden deep in attics or closets may be muffledand even
completely shut out.
LOCATING THE TRANSFORMER IN

THE BASEMENT
The best location for the transformer in many homes is the

basement. Fig. 7 illustrates how to connect the transformer to an
outlet box in the basement, while the wiring is run to the front and
back doors and the bell and buzzer unit. Run low-voltage bell wire
along the baseboard and around door frames, and use insulated
staples to hold the wire in plHCI. Such bell wire is neither
FIG. 7 - The best location for the transformer expensive nor unsightly.
may be in your basement.
Always select a transformer with overload protection on the
secondary or low-voltage wiring. Built-in protection of this type
will cut off the current when trouble occurs in the transformer.
WIRING FOR DOOR CHIMES
Many homeowners enjoy the sound of chimes rather than doorbells

or buzzers. Chimes are attractive, and the sound is very pleasant.
Most chimes already provide separate tones for your front and
back doors. This makes it easy to determine from which door the
chime is activated.
Chimes of various types are available for you to use. A four-note

chime unit may sound single notes for the back door and as many
FIG. 8 - The wiring for one- and two-note chimes
as eight notes for the front door. The wiring diagram in Fig. 8
is similar to the wiring used for doorbells and
buzzers.
shows how to wire a dual-chime unit for one note to sound from
the back door and two notes to chime from the front door. You'll
notice the similarity between wiring a chime and a doorbell or
buzzer.
Chimes are usually much more attractive than bells or buzzers. For
this reason, you may want to mount them right on the wall in a
room.
Again, remember that the chime should be mounted in a location

that allows you to hear the chimes throughout your home.
WIRING A FOUR-NOTE CHIME
Always use a heavy transformer (16 volts to 20 volts) that matches

the voltage requirement for a larger chime.
Read the manufacturer's instructions and follow them carefully.

Many larger transformers require specific wiring arrangements.
Fig. 9 shows a simple wiring plan for a four-note chime.

FIG. 9 - Simple wiring plan for a four-note
chime. In the illustration, the transformer is located in an outlet box in the
basement, and the wire feeds to the four chimes in the central unit
located elsewhere within the house.
LOCATING TROUBLE IN
BELLS & CHIMES
Use a low-voltage circuit tester for testing the wiring arrangements

for doorbells, buzzers or chimes. This type of tester is readily
available at most hardware stores and home centers for a very
reasonable cost.
When problems arise, the doorbell button is usually the culprit.

Always check the button first if a doorbell or chime fails to
function. Metal fatigue in the spring or corrosion from the weather
may cause the contact point to fail to function.
After checking the bell button, inspect all visible sections of the
wiring for breakage or mechanical damage.
Use a low-voltage tester on each section of the wiring. You will

probably locate a break in the wiring rather than a short.
The bell will continuously ringeven when the button is not
pushedif you have a short somewhere in the wire.
If the transformer has an overload protection device, a shortage

may cause it to cut off the secondary current. So, the transformer
should also be checked when problems occur.
To check the transformer, disconnect one wire from the

transformer's secondary screw. Touch the low-voltage terminal and
the disconnected wire with the low-voltage tester.
The bulb will light if there is a short in the wire. Be sure that the
bulb you use in the low-voltage tester matches the voltage in the
transformer. If you are using a lower-voltage bulb, it will burn out
during testing. If you are using a bulb with a high-voltage rating,
the light will simply be dim.
Use a low-voltage tester to test the doorbell button. Connect the

button from one transformer terminal through the bulb tester and
back to the other terminal. If the button is working, the bulb will
light when the button is pushed.
If the trouble seems to be in the bell, buzzer or chime, the problem

is usually in the connections at the contact point. Remove each
connection wire, file it with sandpaper and replHCI each wire.
More expensive chimes have solenoids that may be very difficult

to replHCI. In some cases, these solenoids burn out and the chimes
will fail to function. You may need to return the chime to the
manufacturer for repair.
When first installing a wireless unit, if the unit fails to operate, try
plugging in the sound unit closer to the location of the pushbutton.
You may just be out of the range of the small transmitter in the
pushbutton.
With the wireless units a weak battery in the pushbutton may cause
the unit not to work. Check the battery with a low-voltage tester set
to DC volts. If the battery is weak, replHCI it.
Doorbell Chime
Insulated Staples Side-Cutter Pliers
Transformer Keyhole Saw
Hammer Low-Voltage Tester
Buzzer Bell Wire
Pliers Electricians' Tape
Doorbell Button(s) Screwdriver
Stapler Screws
in this document.

While installing a garage door opener is a relatively straightforward project, the installation process is
too detailedand too manufacturer-specificto be covered fully in any document. The purpose of this
document is to give you an overview of the process, either as preparation for installing your garage
door opener or to help you decide whether you can install the opener yourself.
The procedures outlined in this document are based on instructions provided by Stanley Door Systems.
Other manufacturers' installation procedures may vary. When installing a garage door opener, always
refer to the manufacturer's instructions for detailed, step-by-step procedures and follow them closely.
FIG. 1 - The components of a garage door opener.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
There are three basic types of garage door openers: 1) chain-

driven, 2) belt-driven, and 3) screw-driven. This document
covers installation for a chain-drive opener.
The most important consideration when installing a garage door

opener is safety. Please observe the following precautions:
Before Installation:
Make sure your garage door is well-lubricated and operating

properly. The weight of a garage door is supported by the door
springs, cables, and pulleysnot the opener. If you can't raise and
lower the door normally by hand, do not install the opener until
the door is repaired.
Never alter or remove the door's springs, cables, or pulleys.

Doors with torsion springs (a single coil above the door) should
only be serviced by qualified service technicians.
Remove all ropes or cords attached to the garage door so you

won't get tangled in them during installation.
Deactivate or remove all existing garage door locks, so they

won't accidentally engage and either damage the opener or cause
personal injury.
Do not wear rings, watches, or loose clothing while installing or

servicing a garage door or opener.
Reinforce lightweight fiberglass or metal garage doors before

installing an opener to prevent damage to the door and insure
that the safety reverse system will operate properly.
During Installation:
Install the power unit high enough that tall people won't run into
itat least 7' from the floor if possible.
Garage door openers have a manual disconnect cord; it should be

adjusted to approximately 6' from the floor so any adult can
reach it.
If you need to install permanent electrical wiring, always

disconnect the power at the main breaker box before attempting
to wire connections. Always connect the power cord of the
garage door opener to a properly grounded outlet to avoid
electrical shock.
Install the push-button control 5' from the floor so small children
cannot reach it and in a location where anyone operating it can
easily see the garage door.
Always adjust the safety reverse system and the electric eye
system properly. Refer to your opener manufacturer's
instructions for details.
After Installation:
Never let children operate or play with the opener. Keep the
radio transmitter in a location inaccessible to children.
Never pass under a moving garage door.

Operate the door only when it is visible, and free of any
obstructions.
Check the safety reverse system and the electric eye once a
month, and readjust it if necessary. Periodically check the
manual operation of the door.
If possible, use the manual disconnect only when the door is

fully closed. The opener will not carry the weight of the door,
and if the springs are weak or broken, disconnecting it could
cause the door to fall.
Always disconnect electrical power to the opener when servicing

the unit or working close to the drive chain or other moving parts.
If you see damage to any part of the opener, don't use it until it
has been repaired by a qualified service technician. Never
operate the door if the safety system is not functioning properly.
FIG. 2 - Run the chain from the traveler (above), then through the sprocket on the idler
assembly and back to the traveler (above right).
INSTALLNG THE OPENER
Before you install a garage door opener, familiarize yourself

with the parts of the assembly (Fig. 1). To install a garage door
opener, first insert the tube into the power unit. Slide the traveler
onto the tube, then mount the idler assembly on the end of the
tube. Position the traveler as specified in the manufacturer's
instructions.
Connect the chain to the traveler, then loop it through the drive
FIG. 3 - Connect the chain to the traveler, loop it
around through the drive sprocket and idler
sprocket on the power unit (Fig. 2), around through the idler
assembly, then back to the traveler on the other assembly, and back to the other end of the traveler (Fig. 3). The
side. traveler must be positioned according to the manufacturer's
specifications, and the chain must be tensioned properly.
Locate the center point of the garage door, and mount the header
bracket at that point, at the specified distance above the door.
Connect the idler assembly to the bracket with the power unit
sitting on the floor (Fig. 4). Raise the power unit high enough to
clear the door when it is open, and set it on a stepladder or other
prop.
Raise the door to the full open position, and adjust the height of
the power unit with boards or other shims, so it is the specified
distance above the door.
FIG. 4 - Mount the idler assembly to the header Mount the power unit to the ceiling with the steel angle and
bracket above the garage door per the mounting straps provided. If the ceiling joists are parallel to the
manufacturer's instructions. door (Fig. 5), nail 2x4s between two joists and fasten the power
unit to it. Otherwise, fasten directly to the joists.
If the ceiling is finished (typically with gypsum wallboard),

fasten a 1x6 through the drywall and into the ceiling joists with
lag screws (Fig. 6).
FIG. 5 - Mounting the power unit to 2x4s nailed

between exposed ceiling joists.
FIG. 6 - If the garage ceiling is finished, fasten a

1x6 across three ceiling joists, and mount the
power unit to it.
FIG. 7 - The power unit is generally mounted so the tube is at a slight upward angle from the
power unit to the header bracket.
CONNECTING THE OPENER
Once the power unit is mounted, open and close the garage door
manually to make sure the door travels freely (Fig. 7). The top
edge should clear the tube by the distance specified by the
manufacturer (typically 1"). Be careful not to hit the traveler
when you raise the door.
Attach the linkage assembly to the traveler (Fig. 8the linkage

assembly consists of a straight bar link, an L-shaped link and the
door bracket). Pull the disconnect cord to disconnect the door
from the opener.
Fasten the door bracket so it is centered on the door. The center

of the bracket (where the L-link is attached) should be the
FIG. 8 - The linkage assembly connects the manufacturer's specified distance from the top of the door,
traveler to the door. It consists of a bar link, an L- usually 3" to 6" (Fig. 9). On lightweight steel or fiberglass doors,
link and a door bracket. install reinforcing angles (Fig. 10) and fasten the door brackets to
the angle. Remove the original lock from the door.
Mount the push-button control in a convenient location on the

garage wall, 5' from the floor and within easy sight of the door.
Run the push-button wire up the wall and along the ceiling to the
power unit, fastening it with electrical wire staples. Be careful
not to staple through the wire. Connect the wire to the power
unit.
PlHCIment and adjustment of the electric eye system are critical

for maximum safety and proper operation. Follow the
manufacturer's installation instructions carefully. If you have any
questions, refer to your owner's manual for a telephone number
FIG. 9 - Center the door bracket on the garage or a Web site for additional information.
door, positioned as specified in the installation
instructions. If necessary, install an electrical outlet in the ceiling near the
power unit and run electrical power to it. ALWAYS TURN
OFF THE POWER AT THE BREAKER BOX BEFORE
WORKING WITH AN ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT, and follow
all safety procedures relevant to electrical work.
FIG. 10 - Lightweight garage doors must be
reinforced with steel angle to avoid damaging the The electrical outlet must be properly grounded. IF YOU DO
door and to allow the safety reverse system to NOT KNOW HOW TO INSTALL AN ELECTRICAL
work properly. OUTLET, CONTACT A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.
Re-engage the door with the opener. Adjust the safety reverse
system according to the manufacturer's instructions, then adjust
the open position of the door.
For added safety, especially around small children and pets,

federal law now requires an electric eye be installed with all
garage door openers. This eye will cause the closing action of the
door to reverse if someone or something passes between the
sensors.
Garage Door Opener Stepladder
Pencil Steel Measuring Tape
Hammer Screwdrivers
Adjustable Wrench Pliers
1x6 Mounting Board if Opener will be

1", 2" Lumber for Shims
mounted to a drywall ceiling
Steel Angle for reinforcing lightweight

garage doors
in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to work with solder to help you save time, money and effort.
How to Prepare for a Soldering Job

How to Solder Various Metals
Soldering Flat Pieces of Metal
HOW TO PREPARE FOR A

SOLDERING JOB
There are many types of soldering pencils, guns and irons that are
adequate for home use. Most home-use soldering tools are heated
electrically. There are soldering tips that can be used with your
propane torch. There is even a small refillable butane gas-powered
soldering tool.
The proper soldering tool depends on your project. The propane

torch is for jobs requiring a high heat source like sweating copper
fittings. The gun is for soldering tasks requiring a little more
FIG. 1 - File any corrosion from the top of the control of the amount of heat and where it is going, such as joining
soldering iron or gun. wires, while the pencil is for intricate soldering jobs requiring even
less heat but more control, like circuit-board repairs.
Before soldering with any pencil, gun or iron, be sure the tip is
thoroughly cleaned. Use a light or medium file to remove any
corrosion that is built up on the tip of the soldering point (Fig. 1).
The tip of a soldering tool should be clean at all times.
Clean the tip after each use to eliminate much of the need for filing
the tip.
The shape of the tip of a soldering tool is also important. The

modified chisel tip as illustrated in Fig. 2 is ideal for most
soldering jobs.
FIG. 2 - The shape of the tip on the soldering
iron or gun is important. The tip of the soldering tool should be small enough to reach into
tight plHCIs but blunt enough to ensure that heat is transmitted all
the way down to the point.
Before beginning the soldering job, apply a thin, even coat of

solder to all sides of the tip. This coating process is referred to as
"tinning" (Fig. 3). Tinning should be done frequently while you are
soldering.
To apply an even coat of solder on all sides of the tip of the pencil,
gun or iron, hold a length of core-type solder against the hot tip.
With the solder against the tip, rotate the soldering tool so all sides
of the tip are covered evenly.
FIG. 3 - Apply a thin, even coat of solder to the Always be sure your soldering tool is at maximum heat. You
tip of the soldering iron or gun. This is called cannot get a proper soldering job with a pencil, gun or iron that
"tinning." does not melt the solder quickly.
Also, be sure the material you are soldering is completely clean.

Dirt, grease or any foreign matter limits the holding power of
solder. Any material to be soldered should be scraped, sanded or
treated with a soldering flux before you apply the solder.
Always do your soldering on a flat, even surfHCI. For safety, it is

best to work on a fireproof surfHCI.
A kitchen-type cleaning pad or a piece of steel wool is a handy

cleaning device for the point of your soldering tool while you are
soldering (Fig. 4). This pad or piece of steel wool can be stapled or
FIG. 4 - Keep a cleaning pad or piece of steel
tacked to the work surfHCI where you are soldering. An
wool handy for cleaning the point during occasional wipe across the cleaning pad keeps the point clean at all
soldering. times.
Tack two crossed finish nails into a scrap piece of wood to make
an ideal holder for your soldering pencil or iron (Fig. 5). These
nails keep the pencil or iron off the flat surfHCI, hold it in plHCI
and keep the point of the pencil or iron clean while you are doing
the job.
Always apply heat with the point of the soldering tool held flat
against the metal to be soldered. Do not try to transmit heat with
only the tipthe tip is for shaping or forming.
Keep the soldering point hot at all times. If either the solder or the
metal to which the solder is applied is not kept hot enough, you
will get a poor soldering joint.
FIG. 5 - Crossed nails in a scrap wood block
make a good soldering tool holder. Although solder is also sold in a solid bar, core-type solder is most
commonly used. One type of solder has a rosin core while the
other has an acid core.
Always use a rosin-core solder (this has a rosin flux in the center)
for soldering electrical wiring and metals like tin and copper.
Use an acid-core solder (this has an acid flux in the center) for
soldering more difficult metals, such as galvanized iron. When you
use an acid-core solder, the surfHCI to which the solder is applied
should be washed after each soldering to remove the corrosive
effect of the acid.
A special type of solder is required for soldering stainless steel.
HOW TO SOLDER VARIOUS METALS
It is important that all metal to be soldered is thoroughly clean.

Solder simply will not adhere to dirty or oxidized metal surfHCIs.
Clean any flat surfHCIs which are to be soldered with steel wool, a
file, emery cloth, etc. It's important to take time to clean the
surfHCI thoroughly.
Scrape any wire to be soldered with the back of a knife or any flat
piece of metal (Fig. 6). If the wire is extremely dirty, dip it into a
FIG. 6 - Thoroughly clean all metal to be flux. Do not touch the wire with your hands after it has been
soldered. cleaned. Natural oils in the skin may cause the solder not to stick.
Although the core of solder contains flux, additional flux may be

required on extremely difficult soldering jobs.
Liquid flux can be brushed on the metal if required.
You will need flux if you are soldering with bar solder, which does
not contain a core of flux.
If solder remains on the tip of the pencil, gun or iron for any period
of time, the flux boils out and must be replHCId.
If you find it difficult to get solder to stick on galvanized metal or

FIG. 7 - In some cases, you must apply extra any other hard-to-solder surfHCI, add some flux (Fig. 7). This will
flux. normally improve the sticking capacity of the solder.
If you are attempting to solder any coated surfHCI, such as

enamelware, you must chip away the coated area before applying
the solder (Fig. 8). Solder will not stick to coated surfHCIs.
When soldering electrical wire, separate the wires to be soldered

and scrape them clean (Fig. 9).
Each section of the wire should then be "tinned" or coated with a

thin layer of solder.
Apply this thin coating of solder by holding the wire on the hot tip
of the soldering tool and feeding the rosin-core solder from the top
FIG. 8 - When you solder a coated surfHCI, the (Fig. 9).
coating must first be chipped away.
You will need a small bench vise or some other holding device to
provide a "third hand" for soldering jobs of this type.
After the wires have been thoroughly tinned, twist them together
(Fig. 10).
After the wires have been twisted together, apply a small amount
of flux to the exposed wire to remove any oil that might have been
left on the wiring during the twisting process.
A small paper cup makes an excellent holding device for soldering

small pieces of wire (Fig. 11).
FIG. 9 - Apply a thin layer of solder to wires that Make a slot in each side of the cup to hold the wire in a firm
have been cleaned. position. Also, fill the bottom of the cup with water. This will
make the cup more stable and reduce the chances of a flame-up.
Note in Fig. 10 that the splices in the wire are located at different
positions. This eliminates the danger of electrical shorts and
lessens the amount of buildup when the soldered spots are taped
for insulation.
When the wires have been twisted together and fluxed, they are
ready for soldering (Fig. 12).
Hold the hot soldering tool under the joint to be soldered and feed
the solder from the top.
Let the solder melt and run down until the joint is thoroughly
covered.
FIG. 10 - Offset splices to avoid danger of short- Allow the soldered joint to cool completely before applying any
outs.
pressure. After the solder cools and becomes hard, test it to make
sure the soldered joint is secure.
Always use a rosin-core solder for soldering electrical wiring.

NEVER use an acid-flux solder for soldering electrical wire.
Joints soldered properly should look somewhat like those

illustrated in Fig. 13. A joint that is properly twisted and soldered
is as strong as any uncut section of the wire.
FIG. 11 - A paper cup makes a good holder

when soldering wires.
FIG. 12 - Hold the iron or gun under the wires

and feed the solder from the top.
FIG. 13 - Properly soldered joints are as strong
as uncut wire.
SOLDERING FLAT PIECES OF METAL
You should solder most flat metals, such as copper and tin, with a
rosin-core solder. Use acid-core solder only on galvanized iron and
other hard-to-solder metals.
To get a good bond on two pieces of flat metal, apply a thin layer
of solder to both edges (Fig. 14).
FIG. 14 - For a good bond on two flat pieces of After applying this thin layer of solder to the edges to be soldered
metal, apply a layer of solder along the edges. together, plHCI the tinned edges one over the other and press them
firmly in plHCI with the broad side of the hot soldering iron.
As you apply pressure with the soldering iron, feed additional

solder into the joint from the side.
A little experience will enable you to "sweat" the edges and solder
the two pieces of metal together easily, quickly and firmly.
Heat that is applied to flat pieces of metal can cause the metal to
warp and bow up or down. This makes soldering difficult.
When soldering two pieces of metal, hold them firmly in position

with a screwdriver or some other blunt object while soldering (Fig.
15).
FIG. 15 - Hold the joint securely to prevent
warping from heat. If you do a lot of soldering, you may find a small C-clamp or some
other permanent holding device helpful on jobs of this type.
Knowing how to solder is helpful for many home repair jobs. The
soldering pencil, gun or iron and core-type soldering make it
possible for you to repair gutters, electrical wiring, sheet metal or
almost any other type of metal object.
Always be sure to clean the point of the soldering tool on the

cleaning pad or steel wool before putting it away.
An empty tin can makes an ideal holder for a hot soldering pencil
or iron.
If you do not use a tin can, be sure to lay the hot soldering pencil
or iron in a safe position until it cools to prevent a fire hazard.
Soldering Pencil, Gun or Iron Propane Torch
Rosin-Core Solder Tin Snips
Steel Wool Knife
Vise Paper Cup
File Acid-Core Solder
Flux Work Gloves
Cleaning Pad Pliers
Vise-Type Pliers Small Brush
in this document.

These tips and suggestions on how to install wall and ceiling fixtures can help you complete a better
installation in less time and with less effort.
PARTS NEEDED FOR TYPICAL FIXTURE MOUNTING
Most wall and ceiling fixturesother than recessed fixturesfit into

standard electrical outlet boxes and are usually easy to mount.
Most fixtures are mounted by a fixture stud or a fixture strap

(Fig. 1). Occasionally you need an extension nipple or a plain
nipple for mounting certain fixtures.
Any additional mounting devices required for special types of

fixtures are usually included in the materials furnished by the
manufacturer. Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions
carefully for a neat installation.
FIG. 1 - These are the typical parts required for

installing wall or ceiling fixtures.
INSTALLING A CEILING OUTLET BOX
Occasionally you may need to install a ceiling outlet box before

you can mount a new ceiling fixture. Such an installation
requires some time and effort, but is not too difficult.
The first step is to mark the position on the ceiling where the
new outlet box is to be located. Determine the exact dimensions
of the box and cut a hole in the ceiling where it will be located.
Use extreme care and cut the hole to the exact size and
dimensions.
There are a number of different types of boxes and mounting

devices available. The boxes with the expanding devices on the
FIG. 2 - Cut a hole in ceiling to the exact sides are generally recommended for use with lightweight
dimensions, and mount the ceiling outlet box with lighting fixtures only. This is because of the relatively small area
a hanger bar. to which they anchor. Madison hangers also fall into this
category.
There are boxes designed to be nailed to ceiling joists. Angled

nailing holes are provided. They make it possible to position and
nail the box into a hole cut into the ceiling. The hole for this type
of box needs to be cut next to a ceiling joist.
Most of the better mounting bars have an expanding feature that

allows them to tighten between the joints. These bars must be
inserted through a hole cut in the ceiling. Depending on the type
of mounting bracket, some will lay almost flat against the
surrounding drywall above the ceiling. Others will require
enough clearance to attach an electrical box to the bar. You will
usually want the bottom of the box to be flush with the ceiling
surfHCI.
Next, insert a hanger bar through the hole to rest firmly on the
back of the supporting ceiling (Fig. 2). Position the hanger bar
carefully so it is firmly supported.
Connect the feed cable to the ceiling outlet box, as illustrated

(Fig. 2). If the feed cable is connected to a power source, turn off
all power at the main switch before connecting it. Secure the
electrical wire to the ceiling outlet box with a cable clamp.
Now, mount the ceiling outlet box with the wire attached on the
hanger bar with the attached nipple and locknut. Be sure the
current is off at the main switch. Connect the feed cable to a
power source at an outlet box. Now you are ready to hang the
ceiling fixture.
INSTALLING WALL FIXTURES
As a rule, you can install wall fixtures in regular outlet boxes

with an ordinary strap and nipple (Fig. 3).
Of course, different types of wall fixtures have different

connecting arrangements, but you can usually attach the strap
FIG. 3 - You can install wall fixtures in regular
right to the fixture outlet box with screws. Then you can attach
the wall fixture to the strap with a nipple and knurled cap.
outlet boxes with a strap and nipple.
If the box has a central stud, you will need only an adapter and a
nipple to attach the fixture (Fig. 4). An adapter is screwed onto
the stud, the nipple is attached to the adapter and the fixture is
attached to the nipple.
Wall fixtures are usually quite simple to install. Manufacturers of

wall fixtures design different mounting arrangements. The
manufacturer will usually include complete installation
instructions with the fixture.
FIG. 4 - If a box has a central stud, you'll only
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
need an adapter and nipple.
Always turn off the current before installing any fixture.
INSTALLING CEILING FIXTURES
Some ceiling outlet boxes have no stud in the center. In such

cases, the ceiling fixture is usually installed with a strap that is
screwed directly to the threads in the ceiling outlet box (Fig. 5).
The ceiling fixture is then attached to the strap with screws.
FIG. 5 - The ceiling fixture is attached with a The mounting arrangement illustrated in Fig. 5 will support most
strap if the box has no stud. lightweight ceiling fixtures. Such an installation is simple, fast
and meets most wiring codes. Solderless connectors speed up the
job.
If the ceiling outlet box has a center fixture stud, mount the
fixture by attaching the strap to the center stud with a locknut
(Fig. 6).
Once the fixture strap is firmly attached to the fixture stud with
the locknut, screw the fixture canopy to the strap with two
screws.
FIG. 6 - With a center fixture stud, attach the If solderless connections are codeapproved in your area, use
strap with a locknut. them to connect the wires. If not, use whatever is specified by
your local code. Any wires that are joined should be completely
insulated. Also, use extreme care when connecting the wires.
Black wires generally are attached to black wires, white to white
and green or copper to green or copper. Follow any supplied
wiring diagrams carefully.
Heavier drop fixtures are often mounted with a hickey (Fig. 7).
This hickey screws to the center fixture stud.
FIG. 7 - Drop fixtures are often mounted with a Attach a nipple to the lower section of the hickey with a locknut.
hickey that screws to the center fixture stud. Then mount the fixture canopy to the nipple with a collar.
Hickey use in mounting drop fixtures varies according to the

design and weight of the ceiling fixture. Almost all heavier drop
fixtures require a hickey.
Remember: Be sure the current is shut off at the main switch

before attempting any mounting.
INSTALLING CHANDELIERS
You can mount chandeliers right into ceiling boxes as

replHCIments for ordinary ceiling or drop fixtures. However, the
mounting style varies according to the style, weight and design
of the chandelier.
When installing heavy chandeliers, it is a good idea to check the

existing box. It must be mounted firmly enough to carry the
weight of the new fixture.
Fig. 8 illustrates a common mounting method for lighter-weight

FIG. 8 - Mounts for chandeliers vary by style and
chandeliers. If the manufacturer recommends a different
mounting, complete instructions will be provided. Read these
design. This shows a common method.
instructions carefully and follow them in detail.
In Fig. 8, the mounting bracket is attached to the ceiling box with

screws. The main rod of the chandelier is then screwed into the
strap to provide adequate support.
When replacing an ordinary light fixture with a chandelier, the

first step is to turn off the current and loosen and lower the
canopy of the old fixture (Fig. 9). Fig. 9 assumes that you are
replacing a drop ceiling fixture mounted with a hickey.
Regardless of how it is mounted, the fixture should be totally
removed, leaving the wires for the new fixture completely
FIG. 9 - Loosen and lower canopy.
exposed and ready for mounting (Fig. 10).
In many cases, you can mount the chandelier right into the
hickey used for the old fixture (Fig. 11). If a different type of
hickey mounting is required, the manufacturer should provide it.
Some chandeliers are designed to bolt to brackets that are

mounted right onto the mounting strap (Fig. 12). In this case, the
mounting bracket is attached to the nipple which is plHCId in a
firm position with the locknut.
FIG. 10 - Remove the old fixture to completely Then, mount the fixture to the brackets that are affixed firmly to
expose the wiring. the mounting strap. Use nice, decorative nuts to give a neat
appearance to the canopy of the chandelier.
Other chandeliers must be mounted to the outlet box by a regular
fixture strap (Fig. 13). The strap is mounted to the threaded
section of the outlet box, and the canopy is then mounted directly
to the mounting strap.
FIG. 11 - You may be able to attach the new

fixture to the original hickey.
FIG. 12 - Some chandeliers bolt to brackets that

are mounted on the strap.
FIG. 13 - In other cases, the strap bolts to the

box and the fixture bolts to the strap.
MOUNTING FLUORESCENT FIXTURES
Fluorescent fixtures are usually mounted to an ordinary outlet

box by studs, nipples or straps (Fig. 14). A fluorescent ceiling
fixture may be easier to mount than an ordinary drop or ceiling
fixture.
FIG. 14 - Studs, nipples and straps are used for Two types of fluorescent fixtures are available. Mounting either
mounting fluorescent fixtures. type is basically the same, but the wiring arrangement is totally
different. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully for
mounting fluorescent fixtures.
Fig. 15 shows the wiring arrangement for a starter-type

fluorescent fixture. Of course, manufacturers offer fluorescent
fixtures that vary slightly from this design, but the wiring
arrangement is basically the same as the kind illustrated.
Fig. 16 illustrates how to wire rapid-start fluorescent fixtures. No

starter is required, but the wiring arrangement and the ballast
FIG. 15 - This is the typical wiring arrangement
location are considerably different.
for a starter-type fixture.
Some manufacturers may provide slightly different wiring
arrangements. If so, study the manufacturer's diagrams carefully
and follow them in detail.
Be sure the current is off before attempting to install the fixture.
FIG. 16 - No starter is required for rapid-start

fluorescent fixtures.
INSTALLING RECESSED CEILING FIXTURES
You should mount all recessed ceiling fixtures to joists. Your

first step in mounting a ceiling fixture, then, is to locate the joists.
Joists in ceilings are usually located exactly 16" apart. Use a

magnetic or electronic stud finder to locate these joists. If you
are using a nail-on box, the joist location is very important. Even
FIG. 17 - You can locate the joists with a small with the bar, if the hole is too close to the joist, it will make
hole and a piece of wire. installation difficult, if not impossible.
If you do not have a stud finder, you can tap on the ceiling. As
you get closer to the joists the sound becomes more deadened.
Another way is to drill a small hole and use a piece of wire to
help locate the joist (Fig. 17).
Once you've located the joist, saw out a hole in the ceiling to the
correct size and in a location which permits the recessed fixture
to be mounted where it can be screwed or bolted to the ceiling
joist (Fig. 18).
Turn off the current at the main switch. Attach the electrical
wiring to the ceiling fixture, then mount the fixture in the proper
location.
FIG. 18 - Cut an opening to the correct size and

mount the fixture.
Lighting Fixtures Parts for Fixture Connections
Outlet Boxes Hanger Bars
#14-2 Wiring Keyhole Saw
Saber Saw Pliers
Knife or Stripping Tool Fluorescent Starters
Fluorescent Tubes Screws
Hand Drill Marking Pencil
Folding Rule Screwdriver
Stud Finder
in this document.

Read these tips and instructions carefully on how to build additonal storage areas in your home.
Following the procedures outlined in this document will help you end up with a more satisfactory job
with less waste and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:
Storage Drawers for bed Linens and Blankets

Constructing and Installing the Drawers
Finishing the Job
Building Handy Storage Closet for Area Under Sloped Roof
Construction Details on Inset Pieces for Storage Closet
Building a Linen Closet with Sliding Drawers
Creating Closet SpHCI with Folding Doors
FIG. 1 - Nail 2x6 plates on the rafters where the STORAGE DRAWERS FOR BED LINENS
studs will connect.
AND BLANKETS
Wasted attic spHCI under the slope of the roof in many homes
can be converted to valuable storage spHCI for linens, blankets,
pillows, etc. You can add as many drawers as needed or as
spHCI permits.
To install drawers, first nail 2x6 plates on the rafters at the

locations where the studs will connect when mounted from the
floor to the ceiling (A, Fig. 1).
FIG. 2 - PlHCI 1" boards between two sections Next, nail a 2x4 plate (B) on the floor at a position exactly plumb
of drawers as dividers. below the plates (A) which you have nailed to the rafter (Fig. 1).
Insert as many studs at the desired locations as required to

provide adequate support to create the number of drawers
needed.
Be sure the studs, both front and back, are exactly plumb in all
directions. The studs can be plumbed with either a long level or a
plumb bob. The level is probably easier to read and use.
The front 2x4 studs are usually set at the position where the floor-
to-rafter height is approximately 4'. All spHCI under the slope
beyond this point is usually wasted. When this spHCI is framed
in, it makes an ideal storage area.
Now plHCI a 2x4 header (C) between the front studs at the top
edge of the top drawer. This header provides a nailing edge for
the base of the fHCI panel between the top edge of the top
drawer and the ceiling. It also provides support for the entire
structure.
Insert a 3/16" base just above the 2x4 floor plate to provide a
bottom for the lower drawer. PlHCI 1" boards cut to the proper
length between two sections of drawers as dividers (Fig. 2).
Finally, divide the area for the drawers into two equal parts, and
plHCI a 3/16" piece of plywood as a dividing piece between the
two drawer spHCIs. Be sure the piece of plywood is exactly
level and square in all corners. This provides the base for the top
drawer in the finished storage area.
CONSTRUCTING AND INSTALLINGTHE DRAWERS
Make a framework for the bottom of each drawer from a 1x4

(Fig. 2). Cut the 1x4 pieces to the proper length and fasten at
each corner.
Cover the framework for the bottom of each drawer with a piece
of 3/16" plywood cut to proper size.
Cut the front and back of each drawer from 1" boards and attach
the front and back to the base of the drawer as illustrated. Nail
these boards to the 1x4 frame with 6-penny box nails.
Sand the top, bottom and edges of both the front and back of the
drawer for a neat finish. You may want to use a nail set and
wood putty to hide the nail heads. Attach a drawer pull to the
board that forms the fHCI of each drawer.
Insert a 1/2" wood dowel on each side of the drawer from the
back to the front. These can be glued into plHCI. The dowels
provide extra support for heavily loaded drawers.
FIG. 3 - You can build a handy storage closet

for the area under a sloped roof.
FINISHING THE JOB
PlHCI the drawers into position (Fig. 2). Finish the ceiling, the
area above the drawers, and the room area on each side of the
drawers with 1/4" plywood or paneling.
If plywood is used, you can use stain, wallpaper, or paint for a

finished look.
PlHCI strips over the rafters 16" apart on the center for the
finishing touch.
STORAGE CLOSET FOR AREA
UNDER SLOPED ROOF
Fig. 3 illustrates a storage cabinet and built-in desk that can

easily be built under the sloped area of an attic in a story-and-a-
half home. The major part of the cabinet has shelves, drawers
and a hanging area. The rear section is used for bulk storage.
Study Fig. 3 carefully and make any necessary changes in

dimensions to create a similar storage area to fit under the sloped
area in your home.
FIG. 4 - Use this as a guide to construct the Fig. 4 illustrates the basic parts of the storage area, as well as the
shelves and other basic parts of the storage shelves and the overall dimensions of the major components in
closet. the rear section of the cabinet. Again, you may need to make
slight adjustments in the dimensions shown to conform to the
slope of your roof and other variations in size or shape.
Study the dimensions of each part of the structure carefully, and

cut and mount each shelf and support as illustrated.
Fig. 5 shows how the front section of the storage cabinet is fitted
into plHCI. Note the dimensions and the construction materials
used to create a bulk storage area at the rear of the closet. This
spHCI, ordinarily lost, is now converted to valuable storage for
bulky items.
Fig. 6 shows the final overall construction details for the entire
unit when the front and back sections are plHCId together.
Carefully study the materials used and the dimension of each
storage area to construct a storage closet and desk of similar
FIG. 5 - you can add spHCI for bulk storage at
design with little effort.
the rear.
FIG. 6 - final construction details for the storage
closet.
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS ON INSET PIECES FOR

STORAGE CLOSE
See Fig. 7 for construction details on the drawers used in this

storage closet. See Fig. 6 for the location of these drawers in the
finished storage closet.
No. 3 drawers are used in the finished storage closet.
Fig. 7 indicates using plywood and other framing materials for

FIG. 7 - construction details for the drawers in constructing the drawers. You can follow these directions or use
the storage closet. different materials if you'd like.
You can create your own pattern for the doors of the closet as
long as they are cut to the proper size.
Fig. 8 lists the number and grade of plywood and framing pieces
needed to construct the storage closet. Other hardware items are
also listed. You will need to make adjustments in this list if you
vary the size and shape. Otherwise, the list provides all materials
required for the job.
Fig. 8 - Plywood Needed to Construct Closet
Number, Size Grade Where Used

Partitions,doors, front, sides, shelves, drawer sides
7 panels 4' x 8' x 3/4" Interior A-A
and back, desk front
2 panels 4' x 8' x 1/2" Interior A-D Interior partitions, back, shelves
1 piece 4' x 4' x 1/4" Interior A-D Drawer bottoms
Framing Pieces and Other Lumber
1-1/2" diameter 3 ft. Clothes pole
Alternate handles, trim shelf cleats, drawer guides,
1" x 2" 90 ft.
miscellaneous
Hardware Items Needed
Item Qty. Where Used
1-1/2" x 3" butt hinges 12 pairs doors
bullet catches 10 doors
pulls 10 doors
metal chains 2 drop shelf
1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" angle irons 3 to anchor unit
BUILDING A LINEN CLOSET WITH SLIDING DRAWERS
Fig. 9 shows how any closet can be converted to a linen closet

with sliding drawers. The dimensions must be adjusted to fit the
closet in your own home. Fig. 9 shows a typical closet
arrangement, so only minor adjustments in dimensions should be
required.
Details on mounting the drawer supports and lining inside the

closet are shown in Fig. 10. Remember, the edge of the new
closet must be flush with the outer edge of the door casing, so
use care in our measurements at this point.
Fig. 11 provides construction details and dimensions for

drawers. Drawers at the bottom of the closet are normally 7"
high, while the two drawers at the top of the closet are normally
5" high. Again, these heights must be adjusted to fit the closet
spHCI you are filling.
In Fig. 11, notches are cut out in the front of the drawers instead
of adding drawer pulls. Add drawer pulls, if you prefer.
Fig. 12 shows the construction details and dimensions for the

rolling hamper in the bottom of the closet. Again, make
adjustments in the dimensions if the spHCI you are using varies
from the one shown.
FIG. 10 - Make the edge of the new closet flush

with the outer edge of the door casing.
FIG. 11 - Construction details for making

drawers.
FIG. 12 - Details for constructing a rolling
hamper.
CREATING CLOSET SPHCI WITH FOLDING DOORS
You can often create extra closet spHCI in rooms by simply

adding folding doors that hang from the ceiling. These folding
doors are made of many materials and are available in different
styles and patterns.
Using this method, you can create storage areas in family rooms,
mud rooms, garages and even bedrooms without any major
construction.
The entire end of a room can be converted into a closet area with
folding doors.
A small section of any wall can be converted into a closet area.

Use either curved overhead corners or straight overhead corners
for making these closets.
Corners can be converted into storage areas by using overhead

tracks. Use either curved overhead track or straight overhead
track for constructing corner closets.
Handsaw Wood Glue
Angle Irons Pegboard Panel
Hinges Cabinet Catches
Folding Doors Shelf Brackets
Nails Power Saw
Screws Dowels
Plywood & Framing Casters
Drawer Pulls Overhead Door Track
Toggle Bolts Boards for Shelves
in this document.

A kitchen is the most complex and often-used workshop in most homes, and in order to make that
workshop as efficient as possible, it's important to have the tools of the trade well organized and easily
accessible. There are a wide variety of kitchen organizing accessories availablesome are made for
specific brands of cabinets and others are designed to be added to standard modular cabinets.
But you can make your own accessories, too, custom-designed to fit your needs. This document
explains how to build common kitchen accessories that will add storage spHCI and help you organize
your kitchen better.
Before you begin to build more storage spHCI into your kitchen, first you need to know what needs to
be stored. Whether you're adding spHCI for pots and pans, dishes and glassware, trays and serving
bowls, spices or packaged foods, the first step is to measure the implements you'll be storing so you
know how big to build your storage units.
Storing Pots and Pans

Trays and Serving Pans
Dishes and Glassware
STORING POTS AND PANS
Pots and pans are among the most difficult "tools" to store
because they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. One
way to increase cabinet storage is by adding pegboard panels to
the inside of the cabinet doors to hang the most commonly used
pans, then maximize cabinet storage with recessed shelves (Fig.
1, top).
Use 1/4" pegboard for extra durability. If you have a choice

between standard or tempered pegboard, choose the temperedit's
more water-resistant.
To build pegboard door panels, first measure both the doors and
the opening; the pegboard panels will have to be smaller than the
door so they don't keep it from closing. Cut the panels, then
mount them to the back of the doors with wood screws and
spHCIrs. Premade spHCIrs are available from retailers who
stock pegboard hooks. The spHCIrs hold the panel away from
the door so you can insert pegboard hooks.
FIG. 1 - TOP: Recessed shelves and pegboard
door panels.
If your cabinet doors have magnetic or roller catches rather than
BOTTOM: Sliding pegboard panels.
self-closing hinges, you may want to replHCI the existing hinges
with self-closing hinges. That way you can remove the catches
altogether. If you decide not to replHCI the hinges, you'll need to
remove the catches to install the pegboard panels. Then remount
the catches on the bottom of the pegboard and on the floor of the
cabinet.
Build your recessed shelves so they are deep enough to

accommodate the widest pans that will be set on them but narrow
enough that they won't interfere with the pans hanging on the
insides of the doors. To build them, first mount four shelf
standards (Fig. 2) on the sides of the cabinet. The standards
should be plHCId 1/2" from the back wall of the cabinet and 1/2"
from the front of the shelf. As you install them, check them with
FIG. 2 - Using shelf standards and clips to
a level to make sure they are plumb and that the slots in each of
secure shelves inside cabinets allows you to
change the height of the shelves if you decide to the four standards are level with each other.
reorganize.
Then measure the distance from the fHCI of the standard to the
fHCI of the opposite standard. Cut your shelves 1/4" shorter than
this measurement. Install shelf clips on the standards, then set the
shelves in plHCI. Adjust them as necessary to provide about 1"
clearance between the tops of the pans and the bottom of the next
shelf.
A second strategy for storing pans is to build vertical pegboard

panels that slide in and out of the cabinet and hang pots and pans
on them (Fig. 1, bottom). Use 1x2s or 1x1s (actual size is 3/4"
square) as runner at the top and bottom of the cabinet.
Be sure to spHCI the panels so there is plenty of room for the

pans you plan to store. Install the bottom runners first, gluing and
screwing them to the floor of the cabinet so there is about a 3/8"
gap between them. Then use the level to mark the position of the
top runner directly above the bottom runners.
If necessary, fasten 1x2s horizontally at the front and back of the

FIG. 3 - To build in pegboard dividers, attach 1x2 cabinet as cleats to attach the top runners (Fig. 3). The cleats
cleats to the front and back to of the cabinet, then should be level with the top of the door opening. Glue and screw
hang 1x1 runners for the pegboard. the top runners in plHCI as you did the bottom runners; the
runners should project down into the door opening.
Measure the vertical distance from the cleats to the floor of the
cabinet, then measure from the back of the cabinet to the front.
Subtract 1/4" from each dimension and cut 1/4" pegboard panels
to that dimension. Slide the panels in plHCI and hang your pans.
TRAYS AND SERVING PANS
Large trays are also difficult to store because they take up a lot of
spHCI and you can't stack them too high. One solution is to build
vertical dividers (Fig. 4).
A freestanding divider made of 3/4" plywood with wooden

dowel dividers is easy to make and can be moved later if you
want. To build it, first measure the door opening. The overall
dimensions of the divider will have to be about 1/4" smaller so it
will fit into the cabinet.
Cut the top and bottom panels so they are as wide as the overall
dimension of the divider, and about 1" shallower than the overall
inside depth of the cabinet. If you'll have a center shelf, cut it 1-
1/2" shorter than the top and bottom panels, to allow for the 3/4"-
thick side panels. Cut the side panels 1-1/2" shorter than the
overall height of the unit to allow for the top and bottom panels.
Mark the locations of four 3/8" dowels (two in the front and two
in back) in the center shelf. Drill all the way through the center
shelf with a 3/8" doweling bit.
Lay the center shelf over the top panel, centered so it is 3/4"
from each edge of the top panel. Mark the locations of the holes,
then drill the top panel 3/8" deep. Repeat the process with the
bottom panel (Fig. 4).
Cut the dowels to length, 5/8" longer than the side panels. Drive
the dowels through the holes in the center shelf, then fit the top
and bottom panels in plHCI. Glue and nail the top and bottom
panels to the side panel, then glue and nail the side panels to the
center shelf. If you want to cover the cut edges of the plywood,
nail and glue 1/4" x 3/4" pine lattice or apply veneer tape over
the edges.
You can also make a built-in tray divider with solid plywood
panels. Again, measure the door opening first, then size the
divider to fit. You'll need enough 1x12 pine to make the vertical
dividers and the shelf, and a piece of 1/8" lauan plywood for a
FIG. 4 - Wooden dowel dividers. Bottom
backing and a top (Fig. 5).
illustration is the tray divider cutaway front view.
The spacing between your vertical panels and the height of the
short dividers will depend on the sizes of the trays you'll be
storing. Cut your panels, then glue and nail the short dividers to
the shelf.
Glue and nail the tall dividers to a piece of 1/8" lauan plywood to
hold them together at the top, then fasten the two divider sections
together. Cut an "L"-shaped piece of 1/8" lauan for the back of
the assembly, then square the unit and attach the back (Fig. 6).
Slip the unit into the cabinet and position it. Drill pilot holes at a
45-degree angle through the ends of the vertical dividers, down
into the floor of the cabinet. Nail the front edges of the dividers
into the cabinet.
FIG. 5 - A permanent wood divider unit is held in

the tall dividers and finish nails are toenailed
through the front edges of the dividers into the
floor of the cabinet.
FIG. 6 - Use 1/8" lauan plywood on the back and

top of the divider to add rigidity.
DISHES AND GLASSWARE
If you don't have enough cabinet spHCI for dishes and

glassware, you can add spHCI either by adding onto your
cabinets or by building a freestanding shelving unit.
The undercabinet shelves in Fig. 7 are made of 1x12s; the

material you usepine, mahogany or other hardwoods, for
examplewill depend on the material your cabinets are made of.
To build the shelves, first decide what you want to store in them.
Then measure those items: the height and width of a glass or
bowl, or a stack of plates, etc. Typically, you'll have 18" to work
with between the bottom of the cabinet and the countertop, so
FIG. 7 - If you don't have enough cabinet you'll want to limit the height of your shelves to about 6" to
storage, you can add shelves under your leave counter work spHCI.
cabinets.
Cut the top and bottom of the unit to the full length of the
cabinets it will fit under; cut the vertical dividers to the full
height of the unit minus 1-1/2". Use 1/8" lauan plywood for the
back (Fig. 8).
Assemble the shelf, then square it and fasten the 1/8" plywood
back to make it rigid. Screw and glue all connections for
maximum strength. BrHCI the shelf in plHCI under the cabinets
or have a couple of helpers hold it. Then drill and countersink
FIG. 8 - To build undercabinet shelves, make a 1/8" pilot holes 24" on center from the bottoms of the cabinets
box of 1x12 boards, then attach 1/8" lauan down into the top of the shelf, about 2" from the front of the
plywood to the back to give the assembly rigidity. cabinet. Take care not to drill all the way through the shelf.
Fasten the shelf to the underside of the cabinets with #10

flathead wood screws. The screws should be long enough to
penetrate the top of the shelving unit about 5/8"enough to get a
good grip but not quite all the way through. Most cabinets have a
lip around the lower edge, so you'll have to set the shelf in
plHCI, then measure to see how long the screws should be.
Finally, predrill and countersink screw holes in the back of the

shelving unit, positioned 32" on center so they will go through
the wall and into every other stud. Fasten the unit to the wall.
Steel Tape Measure Carpenter's Square
Circular Saw Level
Saw Blades Wood Screws
Screwdriver Wood Glue
Pencil Wood Filler
1x12 Boards 1/8" Lauan Plywood
1x2 Cleats 1x1 Runners
4d and 6d Finish Nails Stud Finder
Electric Drill 3/8" Doweling Bit
3/8" Dowels Paint, Stain and Accessories

in this document.

No matter how much closet storage you have, chances are you could probably always use more spHCI.
But while building new closets may not be a practical option, you may be able to use the spHCI you
have more efficiently. In this document you will find information about:
Planning Closet Storage

Building Closet Storage
PLANNING CLOSET STORAGE
To make the most of your closet spHCI, you first need to know the
sizes of the things you want to store. The following general
clothing dimensions will help you plan your closet storage
efficiently:
Five men's suit coats: 12" wide, 38" long

Six men's shirts (on
12" wide, 38" long
hangers)
FIG. 1 - A sample closet design. You may want Man's shirt (folded) 8" wide, 14" long
to vary the dimensions to suit your needs.
Man's pants (on straight
44" long
hangers)
Man's pants (folded on
27" long
hangers)
Man's dress hat: 6" x 11"
Man's shoes: 9" wide, 12" long
Woman's dress: 68" long
Woman's robe: 52" long
Woman's dress: 50" long
Woman's jacket: 36" long
Woman's blouse (on
34" long
hanger)
Woman's blouse (folded) 10" wide, 13" long
Woman's skirt: 36" long
Woman's shoes: 6" wide, 9-1/2" long
Sweater (folded): 10" wide, 14" long
9" wide, 12" deep, 14"
Boots:
high
You may not want to design your closet around an exact inventory
of all your clothing (what if you buy another shirt?), but a general
inventory can help you add up the spHCI you'll need.
One of the problems with building any kind of storage spHCI is

that your needs may change. The closet layout in Fig. 1 is an easy
project to build, but it offers enough flexibility that you can change
the design to suit your changing needs.
This design is based on the size of a common 6-foot closetabout 6-

1/2 feet wide, 7-1/2 feet tall, and 24" deep, with a 6-foot-wide, 80"-
high door opening.
It provides nearly the same spHCI for hanging clothes by stacking

two 3-foot closet rods rather than using one rod the entire length of
the closet.
One of the most wasted areas in a closet is the spHCI between the
top shelf and the ceiling. The top shelf in this design is plHCId as
high as possibleonly 3" below the top of the door openingbut it is
only 10" wide, so you can maneuver items in and out.
The rest of the shelves are 22" deep, almost as deep as the closet.
The top shelf and the shelf just above the optional drawers are both
permanent. They rest on 1x2 cleats fastened to the wall.
The two uprights are also fastened in plHCI permanently. They

provide support for the permanent shelves, and anchor one end of
the closet rods.
The remaining shelves rest on shelf clips that are hung from metal
shelf standards. They can be moved up and down as needed to
accommodate shoes, sweaters, shirts, hats, etc.
The drawers are simple boxes built to slide into two shelves,
although they may also be hung from drawer slides. The cubbyhole
below the drawers will hold boots or other tall items.
The shelves are cut from 3/4" plywood, and the drawers are made
from 1/2" plywood, with 1/4" hardboard for the bottoms.
BUILDING CLOSET STORAGE
To build this closet storage unit, first remove the existing shelves,
closet rod, and doors. Measure 3" down from the top of the door
opening and make a pencil mark on the wall just inside the door.
Use a level to draw a level line from this mark all around the inside
of the closet.
FIG. 2 - Leave a gap between the cleats on the
back wall for the center upright. Cut two 10" 1x2 cleats and fasten them to the side walls, upper
edges flush with your pencil line. You should be able to nail the
cleat to the wall framing in the back corner, but you may need to
use a toggle bolt or hollow wall anchor at the front of each cleat.
Measure along the back wall to the location of the center upright.
Make a mark, then make a second mark 3/4" farther. Install two
more 1x2 cleats on the back wall, leaving a 3/4" gap between them
at the point where the center upright will be plHCId (Fig. 2).
Cut the top shelf and plHCI it on the cleats. Fasten it in plHCI with
6d finish nails. Measure from the bottom of the shelf to the floor,
then cut the center upright to fit. Set the upright under the top shelf
and nail through the shelf into the upright with 6d finish nails. Use
the level to plumb the upright, then use a carpenter's square to
make sure it is at a 90-degree angle to the back wall. Toenail
through the lower edge of the upright into the floor with an 8d
finish nail to secure it in plHCI (Fig. 3).
Next, install the lower permanent shelf (from Fig. 1, left side).
Fasten 1x2 cleats on the back and side walls as you did for the top
shelf. Cut the shelf and set it in plHCI, fastening it to the 1x2 cleats
on one side, and nailing through the center upright into the edge of
the shelf on the other (Fig. 4).
Then cut the lower upright (the one that divides the lower shelves
and the drawers in Fig. 1). Install the small upright as you did the
center upright.
FIG. 3 - Side ViewCut the front edge of the
center upright at an angle so it won't get in the Measure from the center upright to the side wall for the closet rods.
way when you put items on the narrow top shelf. Cut the closet rods 1/2" shorter than that dimension. Install the
closet rod sockets on the wall, centered between the back wall and
the front of the closet. Set each closet rod in the socket, level it,
and mark the location of the opposite socket. Install the other two
sockets, then set the closet rods in plHCI.
On the shelving side of the closet, measure the vertical distance

from the underside of the top shelf to the top of the lower
permanent shelf. Subtract 6", then cut two 1x2s to this length to
provide backing for adjustable shelf standards. Mount each 1x2
vertically on the side wall with four hollow wall anchors. The 1x2s
should be positioned about 2" from the back and front walls of the
closet (Fig. 5).
Cut four shelf standards to the same length as the 1x2s (Fig. 6).
Mount the shelf standards on the 1x2s and on the center upright.
To make sure the slots in the shelf standards are level with each
FIG. 4 - Nail the lower permanent shelf to a 1x2 other, insert one shelf clip in each standard and use your level (and
cleat on the wall, then level it and nail through the
a cut 1x2, if needed) to check each standard before fastening it.
center upright into the shelf on the other side.
Repeat the process on the wall between the lower permanent shelf
and the floor.
Cut the adjustable shelves about 1/4" shorter than the distance
between the standards. Insert shelf clips in the standards and install
the shelves.
Cut the permanent shelves that will go between the center upright
and the lower upright, then install them by nailing through the two
uprights into the ends of the shelves. Use your level to make sure
they are installed level.
Build the drawers from 1/2" Baltic birch plywood. First, measure
the cubbyhole where the drawer will be plHCId. Cut the sides so
the width is 1" less than the height of the hole, and the length is 1"
less than the depth. Cut the back and front the same width as the
sides, but 1/2" shorter than the width of the hole.
Rout a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in all four pieces, 1/4" above the bottom
of each piece. Assemble the front and sides by gluing and screwing
through the front into the edges of the sides. Cut the bottom from a
piece of 1/4" hardboard, 1/2" larger in each direction than the
interior dimension of the drawer (Fig. 7).
FIG. 5 - Side ViewMount the shelf standards on

Slip the drawer into the groove, then fasten the back to the
1x2s on the side wall, fastened with hollow wall assembly. Attach the handle.
anchors.
FIG. 6 - Shelf standards can be mounted on the

surfHCI of the 1x2s, or inset with a 3/4" router bit.
FIG. 7
Steel Tape Measure Level
Carpenter's Square Circular Saw
Saw Blades Router & Bits
Hammer Screwdriver
6d & 8d Finish Nails Wood Screws
Chalk Line 3/4" ACX Plywood
1x2 Pine 1/2" Baltic Birch Plywood
1/4" Hardboard Closet Rod
Closet Rod Sockets Shelf Standards
Shelf Clips Hollow Wall Anchors
in this document.

Here are tips and instructions on how to make strong and inconspicuous joints in wood. Read these
instructions carefully to help save you time and money. In this document you will find:
Making Corner Joints

Joining a Top Piece of Wood to a Side Piece
Joining One Board in the Center of Another
MAKING CORNER JOINTS
On almost any woodworking job, you occasionally need to make a

strong corner joint. But there are many types of corner joints.
Which type is best for the job you are undertaking?
The simple butt joint is most commonly used (Fig. 1). This joint is
FIG. 1 - A simple butt joint is formed by nailing or formed by nailing or screwing the end of one piece of wood to the
screwing two ends together. end of the other. While this is simple, fast and effective, the butt
joint cannot be used on many types of end joints.
A simple butt joint leaves the heads of the screws or nails exposed.
Of course, the heads can be countersunk and covered with water
putty or wood filler if desired.
The dowel joint is basically the same as the butt joint except
dowels are used to hold the two pieces of wood together instead of
screws and nails (Fig. 2).
You can make the dowel joint by drilling holes completely through
one piece of wood and into the other. Dowels are driven into these
holes, completely through one piece of wood and deeply into the
other. Then glue the dowels firmly into position to provide strength
and prevent slippage.
Construct blind dowel joints by drilling the holes only partway into
each piece of wood. Then drive the dowels into these holes and
glue them into position. The dowels are not visible.
FIG. 2 - Use a drill to start the holes for a dowel While dowel joints have the advantage of being inconspicuous,
joint. they do not provide the structural strength of a simple butt joint.
The end lap joint is made by sawing halfway through each piece of
wood and then knocking out or sawing away half of this area (Fig.
3).
Now you can put the two pieces of wood together with screws,
nails, corrugated nails, etc.
The end lap joint provides a great deal of strength, but the heads of
the nails, screws or corrugated nails are exposed.
The through mortise and tenon joint is easy to make with a power
saw and a dado head (Fig. 4). A through mortise and tenon joint is
suitable for various woodworking jobs.
FIG. 3 - The end lap joint provides a great deal
of strength. To form this joint, saw a slot into one piece of wood. The end of
the other piece of wood is then notched out to fit the slot in the first
piece (Fig. 4).
Insert the notched piece of wood into the slotted piece of wood and
glue, nail or screw the piece into position.
When making a through mortise and tenon joint, be sure to

measure the areas to be notched and slotted before making any cuts.
You can make an open mortise and tenon joint by cutting the slot
or mortise only partway into one piece of wood. Then create a
notched-out area on the other piece that fits into the slotted area in
the first piece of wood (Fig. 5).
FIG. 4 - The through mortise and tenon joint is
easy to make with a power saw and a dado head. The open mortise and tenon cut creates a stronger joint than the
through mortise and tenon joint. It can easily be cut with a
mortising chisel on a drill press.
Although the open mortise and tenon joint provides more structural
strength, it is a little more difficult to make than the through
mortise and tenon joint. However, with a little practice and the
proper tools, you can make either joint easily.
The conventional miter joint is widely used for making corners in
various types of woodwork (Fig. 6). However, it is not
recommended where the joint is subject to excessive weight or
unusual strain.
The conventional miter joint is made by mitering each corner at a

45-degree angle (Fig. 6). If you'll be using many miter joints, you'll
need a regular miter box or a homemade miter box.
FIG. 5 - Use a mortising chisel on a drill press to
Use nails, screws or corrugated nails to attach the two pieces of
make an open mortise and tenon joint.
wood in a conventional miter joint.
The conventional miter joint is common for making trims around

cabinet doors and other trim pieces.
A miter joint with a spline is easy to make and adds great strength
to a common miter joint (Fig. 7).
First cut a regular 45-degree-angle miter joint. Then cut a groove

in each end of the pieces to be mitered. Or if you prefer, you can
lay out the 45-degree angle on each piece of wood. This will show
you how deep the groove needs to be. Go ahead and cut the groove
while the end of the wood is still square. This makes cutting the
groove much safer and much easier. Next cut the 45-degree angle.
FIG. 6 - The conventional mitered joint is made

After sawing the grooves, saw a spline to fit the grooves.
by mitering each corner at a 45-degree angle.
Use a top-grade adhesive to hold the spline in the mitered joint in
position. Or if appearance isn't important, it can be nailed or
screwed into position.
A newer version of the spline is a biscuit, a football-shaped spline.

The biscuit requires a power biscuit jointer tool that is easy to use
and produces excellent results. Biscuits can be used on almost any
type of joint (Fig. 8).
FIG. 7 - A mitered joint with a spline adds great

strength to the joint.
FIG. 8 - Biscuit joints can be used in any number
of applications.
JOINING A TOP PIECE OF WOOD TO

A SIDE PIECE
In working with wood, all joints are not corner joints. You
occasionally need to join a top piece of wood to a side piece.
Again, the standard butt joint is the most commonly used (Fig. 1).
The standard butt joint can be nailed or screwed together if

appearance is not important. This provides a strong joint and is
completely satisfactory for ordinary jobs.
FIG. 9 - You need a power saw to make a lock
miter joint.
If you are an experienced handyman, you might want to use the
lock miter joint for joining a top or bottom to side pieces of wood
(Fig. 9). You need a power saw to make the lock miter joint.
Accuracy is important when sawing the lock miter joint. When

sawed correctly and properly grooved, the lock miter joint is strong
and inconspicuous.
The mitered rabbet joint is similar to the lock miter joint, and it too
must be made with power equipment (Fig. 10). Accuracy in
sawing and rabbeting is important.
The two pieces of wood on a mitered rabbet joint can be held
together with screws, nails, adhesives or dowels.
Regardless of how the mitered rabbet joint is secured, it provides

an excellent joint with a professional look and a great deal of
strength.
The regular rabbet joint is much easier to make than the mitered
rabbet joint. Although power equipment is helpful, you can make a
regular rabbet joint with ordinary hand tools (Fig. 11).
FIG. 10 - The mitered rabbet joint is similar to
the lock miter joint.
The rabbet can be cut into either the side piece or the top piece
when two pieces of wood are joined with a rabbet joint.
The position of the rabbet cut depends largely on where you want
the half-section of grained end to appear. With a rabbet joint, the
grained end of one piece of wood is completely hidden.
Rabbet joints are normally held together with adhesives, but you
can use screws, nails and dowels. Again, it is a matter of how
important the appearance is to you.
The box corner joint is one that should be undertaken only by the
skilled craftsman (Fig. 12). It requires sawing a groove in one
piece of wood and a tongue or flange in the other.
FIG. 11 - You can use ordinary hand tools to

make a rabbet joint. The box corner joint provides a strong joint that can be held
together with adhesives, nails or screws. In most cases, adhesive
alone is used.
Use power equipment to construct the box corner joint. If you have
the required skill and time, this is a very strong corner joint and
leaves no end grain showing.
The milled corner joint also creates a corner with no end grain
visible. This is highly desirable on some types of woodwork (Fig.
13).
The milled corner joint is widely used with drawers. This joint is
much stronger than the box corner joint and is less likely to crack.
FIG. 12 - Only the skilled craftsman should
undertake a box corner joint.
Use power equipment to make a milled corner joint. Be sure to saw
the tongues and grooves accurately.
The half-blind dovetail joint is used almost exclusively for making
drawers (Fig. 14). Don't undertake this joint without some
experience and good power tools.
Hold together the half-blind dovetail joint with adhesives to

provide an excellent joint with no end grain visible.
You can make a complete open dovetail joint by simply cutting

through the second piece of wood. This joint is equally strong, but
FIG. 13 - The milled corner joint creates a the end grain is visible on both sides of the joint. You might or
professional-looking corner with no end grain
might not want this.
visible.
FIG. 14 - The half-blind dovetail joint is used

almost exclusively for drawers.
JOINING ONE BOARD IN THE CENTER

OF ANOTHER
Some woodworking jobs require a joint where the end of one

board butts against the center of another. Again, you have a choice
of several joints.
The regular butt joint is again the most commonly used (Fig. 15).
Secure this type of joint with nails, screws or adhesives.
A butt joint provides a lot of strength, and if the heads of nails or

FIG. 15 - You can use nails, screws or screws are not objectionable, it will do the job well.
adhesives to secure a butt joint.
To make a dado joint, cut a slot into one piece of wood to match
the end of the other (Fig. 16). The dado joint is much stronger than
the butt joint and creates a more professional appearance.
You can cut a dado into the board with a dado head on a power
saw, a regular handsaw, a dado plane or even a chisel and a mallet.
Use wood screws, nails or dowels to hold dado joints.
The stopped dado joint is a modified version of the regular dado

joint (Fig. 17).
The stopped dado joint is a little more difficult to make by hand,

FIG. 16 - Make a dado joint by cutting a slot into but is quite easy with the proper power tools.
one piece of wood to match the end of the other.
The stopped dado joint has a neater appearance than the regular
dado joint because the front edge is uncut. Thus, the slotted area is
not visible from the front side.
Use ordinary wood adhesives, wood screws, nails or dowels to

hold the two pieces of wood together in a stopped dado joint.
The biscuit joint works quite well for joining one board to the
center of another. For this joint, extra care must be taken to align
the biscuit slots to ensure a straight center board (Fig. 18). Measure
the work pieces carefully. Check the joint by assembling it without
adhesive.
FIG. 17 - The stopped dado joint is a modified
version of the regular dado joint.
FIG. 18 - Careful planning, measuring and

cutting result in attractive strong joints.
Chisel Power Saw
Carpenter's Pencil Dado Head for Power Saw
Wood Screws Hammer
Miter Box Corrugated Nails
Vise Mallet
Folding Rule Handsaw
Wood Adhesive Nails
Screwdriver Dowels
Sandpaper C-Clamp
Drill
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to build attractive shelving that's also functional. Read them
carefully to help save you time, money and effort. Inside this document you will find information about:
Adjustable and Non-adjustable Wood Shelving

Designing Adjustable Wood Shelves
Metal and Wood Brackets for Adjustable Shelves
ADJUSTABLE AND NON-ADJUSTABLE

WOOD SHELVING
Additional shelving is useful in almost every home and can be

added quickly and easily. And it need not be expensive.
Consider adding shelves in your basement, attic, kitchen and other

areas to help keep stored materials much neater and to save time
when looking for stored items.
FIG. 1 - You can make basic, non-adjustable
shelving from solid boards of many sizes and
You can make basic, non-adjustable shelving from solid boards of
widths.
almost any size or width (Fig. 1). Such shelving is easy to make
and provides adequate support for normal storage and shelving
needs.
The disadvantage of non-adjustable shelving is that some stored

objects may be too tall or short, thus wasting spHCI on the
shelving you construct.
You can overcome this problem by making shelves for tall objects
and other shelves for short objects. Give a little thought to the
materials you plan to store so you can design the shelves to
minimize wasted spHCI.
Non-adjustable shelving is normally used in closets, attics,

basements, work areas, etc., where appearance and adjustability
are not very important. These shelves can be nailed together with
support pieces to provide the structural strength required.
Small cleats can provide the needed support for other types of non-
adjustable shelves (Fig. 2). These shelves can be made as wide or
FIG. 2 - Small cleats make supports for non- as long as necessary.
adjustable shelves.
Wood shelving of this type should have supports every 3'. If the
shelving will hold extremely heavy loads, use supports as
frequently as every 2-1/2'.
Use extreme care when nailing the cleats onto the side boards. Use
a T-square or a level to make sure the shelves are in the proper
position and are evenly spHCId at all points.
The way in which you drive the nails will increase or decrease the
ability of the shelves to carry heavy loads (Fig. 3).
For example, nails driven at an upward angle are likely to pull out
when a heavy load is plHCId on them.
If the nails are driven straight into the supporting wall, the cleat
has a fair supporting strength. However, nails driven at a
FIG. 3 - The way the nails are driven affects the
downward angle greatly increase the ability of the cleat to carry a
strength of a shelf bracket.
heavy load. Keep this in mind when nailing cleats for supporting
shelves.
Wider cleats, as shown in Fig. 4, provide a great deal of structural

strength. They also make it possible for the shelves to be moved in
and out as necessary.
If you are designing shelves to carry extremely heavy loads, use

wide cleats and nail them firmly into position.
FIG. 4 - Larger cleats provide stronger supports

for shelves that must carry heavy loads.
DESIGNING ADJUSTABLE
WOOD SHELVES
Use a simple dado cut in the side support for adjustable wood
shelves. Dado cuts can be inserted at any desired spacing to
provide as many adjustments as you need.
You can also use dado cuts for permanent non-adjustable shelving.
For adjustable shelving, the dado cuts must be relatively deep. For
permanent shelving, the cuts can be shallow.
FIG. 5 - Dado cuts can be inserted at any The dado cut shown in Fig. 5 is visible from the front of the shelf.
desired spacing. If this is objectionable, make a concealed dado cut for a neater,
less conspicuous shelf joint (Fig. 6).
Again, use a dado cut for either adjustable or non-adjustable

shelving. An adjustable shelf requires a deeper concealed dado cut.
The shelf is notched in the front for concealing the dado cut.
A pinned joint provides structural strength for long lengths of

shelving (Fig. 7). The supporting piece can be inserted or removed
as required.
You can create another type of adjustable shelving by making cuts

at 90-degree and 45-degree angles (Fig. 8). The shelf can then be
cut to the same 45-degree angle and fitted into the sawed slots.
FIG. 6 - A concealed dado cut makes a neater This type of shelving is not designed to carry extremely heavy
joint. loads. The 45-degree cut in the end of the shelf slightly weakens
the supporting strength of the shelf.
Fig. 9 shows a modified version of the 90-degree and 45-degree

angle cuts for adjustable shelving. Cut the notches continuously to
provide a shelf adjustment about every 1".
If the shelving notches are carefully cut, they create quite a

pleasing effect. You can insert box units to improve both the
appearance and the function of the adjustable shelves.
Another design for adjustable shelves requires a 1x4 board of the
desired length for the base (Fig. 10).
First, drill holes at the desired intervals. You can usually use holes
of 3/4" bored at 3/4" intervals.
When all holes are drilled into the 1x4 piece of wood, split the
wood down the middle and mount it to provide end supports for
the shelves (Fig. 11).
FIG. 7 - A pinned joint adds strength to a shelf Each 1x4, when drilled and split, makes two shelf supports or
support. adequate supports for one end of the shelf.
You must drill two identical 1x4s to make supports for both ends
of each shelf. Be sure to drill the holes in exactly the same
positions and at the same spacing intervals so they match when
affixed at each end of the shelf.
Once the 1x4 has been drilled and split, carefully sand and finish it
for a neat appearance.
Use this same treatment for making deep, sliding shelves for linens
or other storage in closets (Fig. 12). These shelves are inserted
with the long measurement going into the closet rather than
spanning the closet width.
FIG. 8 - Cuts made at 90-degree and 45-degree
angles provide a nice arrangement for simple The end of each shelf must be rounded and sanded to fit into the
adjustable shelves. curved areas of the shelf supports.
FIG. 9 - You can cut notches continuously to

provide a shelf adjustment about every 1".
FIG. 10 - A 1x4 board can be bored and split to
form a bracket for adjustable shelving.
FIG. 11 - A split 1x4 forms brackets that can be

attached to the wall for shelf support.
FIG. 12 - You can use the same brackets for

deep-set, sliding shelves in closets.
METAL AND WOOD BRACKETS FOR
ADJUSTABLE SHELVES
Most adjustable shelves are supported by metal brackets. These

brackets are inexpensive and much easier to use than most wooden
supports.
Special brackets that fit into drilled holes make good supports for
light shelving (Fig. 13).
Drill holes into the supporting walls of the shelf at the desired
FIG. 13 - Special brackets that fit into drilled spacing intervals. Then, slip the bracket into the hole and lay the
holes make good supports for light shelves. shelf on the two supporting brackets.
These brackets can be adjusted upward or downward to make

room for large or small items. Although easy to handle, use these
brackets only for supporting light storage loads.
You can use simple dowel pins instead of metal brackets to make
adjustable shelves (Fig. 14).
Insert the dowel pins in the drilled holes. They can be inserted or
removed to adjust the shelving up or down quickly and easily.
Dowel pins are easy to use, but they do not support heavy loads
and they tend to wear or give way under extended use. Metal shelf
FIG. 14 - Dowels can also be used as light shelf
brackets are preferable.
supports.
A special flush-type shelf bracket is fitted into grooves for extreme
neatness and flexibility (Fig. 15).
This shelving bracket provides more than sufficient structural

strength for normal storage purposes. It is inexpensive, very
effective and easy to use.
For mounting grooved shelving brackets of this type, use a dado

cut for each bracket in the supporting end of the shelf.
The regular shelf bracket and standard is perhaps the most widely
used shelf support (Fig. 16). Readily available from many sources,
it is easy to install and neat in appearance.
The shelf standard and bracket makes it easy to build shelves

FIG. 15 - A special flush-type shelf bracket fits quickly and to remove them when they are no longer needed.
into grooves to provide neatness and flexibility.
FIG. 16 - Shelf brackets and standards are the

most widely used for wall shelves.
Pre-cut Lumber T-Square
Marking Pencil Wood Chisels
Sandpaper Power Drill
Shelf Brackets Dowels
Floor-to-Ceiling Posts Nails
Screws Handsaw
Folding Rule Dado Head
Hammer Saber Saw
Power Sander Drill Bits
Shelf Standards
in this document.

Follow these simple instructions for laying resilient floor tile of any type. Completely read all
instructions before starting the job. If any part is unclear, call or visit the store where you purchased the
materials and ask for further information.
PREPARE THE BASE FLOOR
Start by removing all wax, grease or oil with a good,

environmentally safe chemical or cleaner. Remember that
adhesives will not adhere where oil or grease is a part of the base.
Next, plane down high spots and renail any loose boards on
wood floors (Fig. 1). Any rough spots will gradually show
through the floor tiles and may ruin the appearance.
FIG. 1 - Plane down high spots and renail loose

If the original floor is in poor condition, it may be necessary to
cover it with sturdy plywood or untempered hardboard (Fig. 2).
boards.
When laying a new floor, nail every 4" along the edge and 4"
apart in all directions. Stagger the panels so you don't have four
corners together. Start in the center of the panel and work toward
the edges. Use coated or ring-shanked nails, and be sure heads of
the nails are even with board level.
FIG. 2 - Cover original floor with plywood if

necessary, stagger the joints and nail every 4".
START FROM THE EXACT CENTER OF THE ROOM
The first run of floor tile should be started from the exact center of the
floor, so use these steps to locate the center of the room:
Locate the exact center on each wall and mark that center spot.
In rooms with offsets or irregularities, ignore the irregularities in

the measuring process (Fig. 3).
Hold a chalk line at the center position on facing walls, as

FIG. 3 marked and snap it on the floor. The exact center will be marked
at the point where the two lines cross. The example in Fig. 3
shows a room 15'10" x 14' with a slight offset.
To check for accuracy, measure 3' in one direction and 4' in the
opposite (90) direction. When measured from true center, the
distance from the 3' marking to the 4' point will be exactly 5'. If
this is not the case, remeasure and rechalk each wall to find the
true center. This is essential for a quality finish.
MAKE A FINAL CHECK WITH LOOSE TILE
Start at the center point and lay loose tiles along marked lines
from center, as shown in Fig. 4. This procedure provides an
opportunity to make adjustments if the center is not correctly
marked.
After you have laid a full run of loose tiles along the chalk lines
toward each wall (Fig. 4), measure the remaining distance
between the edge of the last tile and the wall on each run.
FIG. 4 - Lay loose tiles along chalk lines. If the distance between the last tile and the wall is less than two
inches or more than eight inches, you will end up with an
extremely narrow cut of tile (Fig. 5).
To correct, adjust the center line that is parallel to the wall by 4-

1/2" (half a tile) closer to the wall and remark (Fig. 6).
FIG. 5 - If distance is more than 8" or less than

2", remark.
FIG. 6 - Move center line 4 -1/2" closer to parallel

wall and remark.
PREPARE THE PLAN FOR TILE APPLICATION
Open all cartons of tiles that are to be used. Conveniently

arrange them so you select tiles out of each carton on an
alternating basis. This will help to prevent any noticeable color
variation in tiles boxed together.
FIG. 7 - Examine pattern or grain when planning Next, study the tile patterns and plan your laying pattern. If the
layout. tiles are all one color, plan the pattern according to the grain
(Fig. 7).
You may choose to alternate the run of the patterns (as shown),
or you may decide to lay patterns in one direction. Whichever
pattern you choose, it is critical to plan in advance.
For tiles of varying colors, plan your design carefully before

applying the first tile (Fig. 8). This will influence your selection
of starting tiles.
FIG. 8 - Many designs can be created with tiles.
APPLY THE TILE CEMENT
The next stepnow that you have correctly marked the center of the room
and selected the tile designs and patternsis applying the adhesive for the
tile. If you are using self-sticking tile, skip this section.
Read all instructions for the product and follow carefully. Begin
FIG. 9 - Apply adhesive to one-quarter of the by spreading an even coat of adhesive over one-fourth of the
floor. floor. Most adhesives are applied with a notched trowel (Fig. 9),
but some are still applied with a brush or roller.
In most cases, floor tile cement will dry to the proper consistency
in about 15 minutes. However, your exact time may vary
depending on humidity, temperature, etc., in the room where you
are applying the tile.
After about 15 minutes, plHCI your thumb onto the cement (Fig.
10). The cement should feel tacky but should not actually stick to
FIG. 10 - Let dry until tacky. Cement should dry your thumb. If it does stick, allow a little longer for proper
a little longer if it sticks to your thumb. drying.
When tacky but not sticky, the cement is ready for the
application.
LAY THE FLOOR TILES
Start laying the tile at your markings in the center of the floor
(Fig. 11). It is important that the first tile is exactly square with
the lines. If the first tile is started wrong, all other tiles will also
line up incorrectly.
FIG. 11 - Start at center. Lay tiles row by row to Be sure each tile is butted firmly against the previous one,
one wall. leaving no gaps.
Do not attempt to slide tiles into plHCI. Lay each tile firmly into
position on the cement.
Proceed by laying tiles alternately, according to your plan,

toward each wall as illustrated in Fig. 12. This helps to
counteract expansion and contraction of the tiles while
enhancing the appearance.
To cut the border tile easily and accurately, plHCI a loose tile
FIG. 12 - Lay tiles alternately toward each wall to
squarely over the last field tile in the row (Fig. 13). Then take
enhance the appearance. another tile, butt it against the wall and mark, as illustrated. Cut
the tile along the marked line using ordinary scissors. In a cold
room, you should warm tiles slightly before cutting.
The cut tile will now fit securely into the border spHCI. Be sure
this tile is plHCId fHCI-up and at right angles to the grain of the
tile below it. This ensures the correct pattern when it is laid (Fig.
14).
When it becomes necessary to fit tiles around pipes or other

obstructions, simply cut a paper pattern that fits around such
FIG. 13 - After field tiles are down, measure, cut obstructions and trHCI the pattern on the tiles. Then cut with
and lay edge tiles. ordinary scissors (Fig. 15) and plHCI around obstruction.
You may want to consider adding a vinyl cove base of matching

or contrasting color (Fig. 16) to add to the appearance and to
make the floor easier to clean.
IMPORTANT NOTE
Do not wash your new tile floor for at least one week after
installation.
FIG. 14 - Border tile will fit exactly into plHCI.
FIG. 15 - Make paper pattern for cuts around

pipes.
FIG. 16 - Vinyl cove base is sometimes added.
Chalk Chalk Line
Mastic Mastic Trowel
Plane Cement
Sandpaper Steel Square
Ordinary Scissors Brush
Level Scraper
Tape or Folding Rule Hand Cleaner
in this document.

Paneling is one of the easiest things you can do to change the look of a room. The 4 ft. x 8 ft. sheets
come in many materials, textures, and colorsyou may find that choosing the paneling is the toughest part
of the job! Your retailer will be happy to help you.
The basics of panel installation are the same, even when the panel styles require a slightly different
method.
Estimating your needs
Conditioning the panels
Preparing the walls
Installing on solid backing
Installing on a framed wall
Installing on a masonry wall
Before panel installation
Measuring and cutting the panels
Paneling with nails
Installing with adhesive
Fitting electrical boxes
Installing around doorways
Finishing touches
ESTIMATE YOUR NEEDS
To figure how much paneling you'll need, measure in feet the

total width of the walls you're covering, then divide by four. This
will give you the number of 4' x 8' sheets required. For walls
higher than 8', divide the additional height measured in feet into
8 feet to see how many upper pieces can be cut from a single 4' x
8' sheet. Deduct half a panel for each door, and a quarter panel
for each window.
CONDITION THE PANELS
After you purchase the panels, they should be conditioned. You

can either stand them up individually on their long edges around
the room or stack them flat using plenty of wooden sticks
between each panel to allow air to flow freely between them.
The panels need 24 hours (above grade) to 48 hours (below
grade) to become acclimated to the environment.
PREPARE THE WALLS
Paneling may be installed on three different types of walls (Fig.

1). Panels less than 1/4" thick need a solid backingsuch as a level
and flat plasterboard wall behind them for support. Panels 1/4"
and thicker can be installed directly over even framing
membersstuds or furring strips (check building codes for your
area). All paneling may be put up with nails or with a
combination of panel adhesive and nails.
INSTALLING ON SOLID BACKING
First, locate the wall studs. Repair the old wall, ensuring that it is
nailed tightly to its framing. The framing behind walls usually
runs vertically on 16" centers or sometimes 24" centers. When
you find one stud, you can usually locate the others easily by
measuring. Or you can use a stud finder. Either way, mark the
locations by snapping or drawing vertical lines along the studs.
Then continue the lines (or use tape) several inches out onto both
the ceiling and the floor as guides for when the panels cover the
marks at the studs.
Remove all the trim. Take down all moldings in the room:
ceiling, floor, and around all openings. Take off the electrical
receptacle and light switch covers, after you turn off the
electricity to them. (Use a neon test light to be sure it's off.) If the
ceiling is to be paneled, too, remove all light fixtures by first
turning off the electricity and disconnecting them from their
wiring. For safety, reinstall the wirenuts or put tape around the
exposed wires inside the junction box.
FIG. 1 - Paneling may be installed to solid-
backed walls, over studs or over furring strips.
INSTALLING ON A FRAMED WALL
Check the studs to be sure they are vertical and on 16" or 24"
spacing. Also make sure that backing is provided at all corners,
at the top and bottom of the wall and around any openings.
Outside walls should have a vapor barrier over the fHCIs of the
studs.
INSTALLING ON A MASONRY WALL
First check the masonry walls for excessive moisture. Walls with
moisture must be completely waterproofed before they are
paneled. Ask your retailer for a good waterproofing product.
Moisture can sometimes be caused by condensation. If this is the
case, add a waterproof vapor barrier over the wall (below grade,
do this before furring it).
BEFORE PANEL INSTALLATION
Install 1" x 2" or 1/2" plywood furring stripsripped 11"

widehorizontally or vertically, placing them on 16" centers (Fig.
2). They are best when fastened with masonry anchors drilled
into the wall. Furring strips also can easily be glued on; your
retailer can recommend the proper adhesive. Furring can also be
used to make imperfectly framed walls even and flat.
Inspect your furring strips as you put them up to make sure they
are creating an even, flat surfHCI. Make any necessary
adjustments by shimming behind the uneven strips with pieces of
plywood or tapered wood shingles. Nail the shingles with brads
to keep them in position.
FIG. 2 - Furring strips should be plHCId 16" apart

horizontally or vertically. Put blocking every 4 ft.
between furring.
MEASURING AND CUTTING THE PANELS
If the panels contain a variable pattern, such as woodgrains,

stand them against the wall around the room. Then you can
rearrange them or invert them for the most pleasing pattern.
Begin putting up the panels in the first corner you see as you
enter the room. Trim each panel to 1/4" shorter than the ceiling
height.
Get the first corner panel exactly plumb, using a level or chalked
plumb line snapped onto the wall (Fig. 3). Its outer edge must be
centered on a framing member. The edge against the corner may
have to be trimmed to bring the outer edge over a stud or furring
FIG. 3 - Snap plumb chalk lines at the center of
strip. Double-check all your measurements before sawing the
all behind-the-wall framing.
panel. Cut with a fine-tooth sawnever use one with coarse teeth.
Do the sawing with a table or hand crosscut saw (not rip),
working from the finished side of the panel (Fig. 4). With a saber
saw, circular saw or radial-arm saw, work from the back side.
If the corner of the wall is not plumb or is irregular, the edge of

the panel against that corner can be scribed to fit, as shown in
Fig. 5. To do this, plumb the panel 2" back from the corner.
FIG. 4 - To keep from getting ragged edges on Then, holding the pencil compass horizontally, scribe a line onto
the fHCIs of panels, they should be hand-sawn the panel with the compass point following the irregularities.
from the finished side or saber-sawn from the
Once this uneven edge is marked and the panel is cut with a
backside.
coping saw, it will fit into its corner perfectly.
When the first panel is readied, nail (or glue and nail) it to the
wall. Move on with additional panels, avoiding a fit that's too
tight between the panels. Leave the thickness of a dime between
panels to avoid expansion problems (Fig. 6). The gaps will not
show greatly if the area between panels is precolored with a
marking pen or a stripe of paint the same color as the grooves.
FIG. 5 - Use a pencil compass to scribe irregular

corners onto panels. Cut with a coping saw for a
perfect corner fit.
FIG. 6 - SpHCI the panels apart about the

thickness of a dime to allow for expansion.
PANELING WITH NAILS
Cover your hammer head with a rag to protect the fHCI of your
panels when nailing. Use the nails recommended by the
manufacturer of the paneling you purchased. These will likely be
1" brands or 3-penny finishing nails. If you're nailing through an
older wall, the nails need to be extra long (usually 1-5/8") to
penetrate into the framing. PlHCI nails every 4 to 6 inches along
the panel edges and every 8 to 12 inches throughout the rest of
the panel on studs. Always begin nailing at one edge and move
across the panel to the other edge. Never nail opposite edges
first, then the middle of a panel. Drive the nails about 1/32"
below the surfHCI with a nail set.
The countersunk holes may be filled later with a matching

colored putty stick. If you use color-matched nails,
countersinking and puttying will not be necessary.
INSTALLING WITH ADHESIVE
To hold the panels firmly to the wall, apply 3" long 1/8" beads of
a solvent-based panel adhesive to the studs or solid-backed wall
(Fig. 7). At the panel edges, apply a continuous zigzag bead. If
the wall has been papered, the wallpaper must be removed before
applying adhesive. (Consider simply nailing the paneling over
the wallpaper.)
FIG. 7 - Apply gapped 1/8" beads of panel
adhesive, using a drop-in caulking gun and PlHCI the panel in position on the adhesive and drive several
cartridges. nails loosely across the top to hinge it in the proper position.
Then pull the panel about 10" from the wall at the bottom,
resting it on a block of wood. The adhesive will become tacky in
2 to 10 minutes (Fig. 8).
One 10-oz. cartridge of panel adhesive will adhere three or four
panels. Use adhesives according to the directions on the
cartridge. Avoid prolonged breathing of vapors, and remember
that panel adhesive may be flammable.
Now press the panel firmly against the adhesive and tap all over
it with a hammer and cloth-padded wood block or rubber mallet.
The "hinge" nails at the top can be covered later with trim, or
else countersunk and filled over.
Heavy panels need additional support, with nails 16 to 20 inches

FIG. 8 - After contacting panel and adhesive, pull apart. In this case, you need not pull the panel away from the
it away from the wall at the bottom. Wait for the wall to allow the adhesive to become tacky.
adhesive to get tacky before recontacting.
FITTING ELECTRICAL BOXES
Panel cutouts for switch and receptacle boxes can easily be made.
First, generously chalk the wall around the edges of box.

FIG. 9 - Marking cutouts for electrical boxes is
easy if you chalk the box edges and make contact Then, hold the panel in position and tap it lightly against the
with the panel in position. chalked box. When the panel is taken away, the box outline will
have been transferred to the back of the panel (Fig. 9).
Remember that the outlet box itself should be adjusted outward
to meet the surfHCI of the paneling.
Simply drill four holes at the corners of the chalk outline, insert a
keyhole saw, and make the cutout. Make it 1/4" larger than the
cutline (Fig. 10).
FIG. 10 - Drill four holes at the corners of the

box, then make the cutout with a fine-toothed
keyhole saw. Add 1/4-inch all around.
INSTALLING AROUND DOORWAYS
To make cutouts for windows and doors, measure horizontally

from the last panel installed to the untrimmed opening where you
want the edge of the panel to reach. Also measure from the floor
to the top of the door. Transferring these measurements onto the
FIG. 11 - To make the waste cutout in a panel at fHCI of the panel (Fig. 11), saw out the rectangle of waste
an opening, measure a, b, c, then transfer these
material. Saw to leave a 1/4" gap between the edge of the panel
measurements to the fHCI of the panel.
and the opening. Paneling around a fireplHCI will have to be
scribed (Fig. 5). Use trim to hide any rough edges.
Once your paneling is installed, you can finish the project with
trim. Some plastic-finished panels use built-in metal or vinyl
moldings that are installed at the same time as the paneling.
Paneling in bathrooms is often done this way, using a troweled-
on adhesive.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Most trim, however, is installed with nails after the paneling. Cut
your wood or plastic moldings in a miter box using a fine-tooth
saw. Nail it into position with small finishing nails,
countersinking the nails and filling the holes with putty stick. If
the moldings are prefinished, clean them with a dry cloth.
Otherwise, apply paint or stain and a clear finish to complete
your paneling project.

Hammer Eye Protection
Nails (several sizes) Fine-toothed Saw
Tape or Rule Level
Knife Plumb Line
Drill and Bit Keyhole Saw
Carpenter's Square Miter Box
Straightedged Rule Chalk or Crayon
Chalk Line Powdered Chalk
Pencil Compass Coping Saw
Panel Adhesive Plastic Film or Waterproof Paper
Masonry Waterproofing Drop-in Caulking Gun
Furring Strips Shingle Scraps
Masonry Bit and Anchors Furring Strip Adhesive
Moisture-Resistant Primer Moldings
Nail Set Color-Matched Putty Stick
Marking Pen Stain
Paintbrush Stud Finder
Saber Saw
in this document.

Here are tips and general instructions on installing ceiling tiles. They can help you save time and effort
once you begin the job.
Be sure to follow manufacturer's instructions for installation, particularly if you're using cement or
adhesive. Inside this document you will find information about:
Selecting the right tiles
Determining how to apply tiles
How to determine the size of border tiles
Applying tile with adhesives
Installing tiles on wood furring strips
Installing the furring strips
Stapling tiles to furring strips
Tiling around posts or pipes

SELECTING THE RIGHT TILES
Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard, a mixture of fine fibers

cut from wood or cane and chemical binders, which are pressed
into semihard, flat panels. Special chemicals are added during
this process to make fire-resistant tiles.
Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made
in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Most ceiling tiles have tongue-and-
groove edges for easier installation. You can choose from plain,
embossed and patterned finishes. Some are molded with special
texturing and square edges instead of the common beveled
edges to make seams barely visible when the tiles are in plHCI.
Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber, but an
additional manufacturing process helps these tiles absorb much
of the sound in a room. A well-designed acoustical tile absorbs
up to 70 percent of the excess noise in an area.
Ask your retailer to help you estimate the materials you need for
a tile installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to the
retailer to help estimate the number of tiles, the amount of
furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed, based on the room
size.
Manufacturers typically pack 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons

of 40, and 12" by 24" tiles are packed 20 to a carton.
DETERMINING HOW TO APPLY TILES
The two most common methods of ceiling tile application are to

use adhesives or to staple or nail the tiles to wood furring strips.
A third system involves a metal grid instead of furring strips and
metal clips instead of glue or nails.
For ceilings made of sound plaster, gypsum board, or other

material that provides a sound, smooth, continuous backing, use
adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles.
If the ceiling has exposed joints, cracked plaster, or any other

unsound surfHCI, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles
to the furring strips.
FOLLOW THESE THREE BASIC RULES
All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the
ceiling meets the walls (Fig. 1).
Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.
Cut tiles should never be less than half a tile wide.
FIG. 1 - Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room

should be the same size, and they should never
be less than half the width of a full tile.
HOW TO DETERMINE THE SIZE OF BORDER TILES
Measure the total distance from wall to wall on the longer side of
the room. If the length measures in exact feet, you will not need
to cut any border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not
come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining
and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles.
For example, if the room is 10'6" long, add 12 to the 6, divide 18

by 2, and the result, 9", is the proper width of your border tile.
(Adding 12 guarantees that your border tile will be more than
half the width of a full tile.)
Use the same measurement technique for the shorter side of the
room.
APPLYING TILE WITH ADHESIVES
Use adhesive for applying tiles only if the ceiling is sound and
even. If it is not, use the furring strip method (see step 6).
SurfHCI preparation is important when using adhesives. Any

painted surfHCI should be checked carefullythe paint may flake,
peel or become chalky, and your tiles will not adhere. You can
test painted surfHCIs by installing four or five tiles at different
plHCIs around the room and waiting 48 hours to see how well
FIG. 2 - Chalking lines on the ceiling along each they adhere.
side of the room that equal the width of a border
tile from the wall will help align the border rows. Using the technique outlined in Step 4 (determining the size of
border tiles), make sure that the border tiles will be the same on
opposing sides of the room.
Snap a chalk line along each side of the room that equals the
width of the border tile from the wall. Use these lines to align the
first row of border tiles along both the short and long sides of the
room (Fig. 2).
Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into the corner, so
you must take into consideration the dimensions of border tiles
on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if
your border tiles on the long side of the room are to be 10" and
on the short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be
cut to measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the
room to line up properly with your full-sized tiles.
FIG. 3 - PlHCI the adhesive in each corner of the
tile about an inch from the edge and in the middle. Cut border tiles on a flat surfHCI, with the finished side up. Use
a very sharp knife or utility knife, and a clean (preferably metal-
edged) straightedge.
PlHCI the adhesive or cement in each corner of the tile about an

inch from the edge, and in the middle of the tile (Fig. 3).
PlHCI the border tile in position in the corner (Fig. 4). Make sure
the wide stapling edge lines up with the chalk marks on both
sides. The flange must be exposed so the tongue of the next tile
can slide into the tile you've just plHCId. This guarantees a solid
fit.
FIG. 4 - PlHCI the corner tile in position so its It may be necessary to use a staple in each flange to hold the tile
edges line up with the chalk lines and the flange is
in position while the adhesive dries. Follow the manufacturer's
exposed.
recommendations.
PlHCI several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill
in the ceiling with full-sized tiles (Fig. 5).
Once you've installed all the full-sized tiles, you must measure
and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite border.
Install a border molding to complete the job, and finish with a

neat and finished appearance (Fig. 6).
FIG. 5 - PlHCI several border tiles in position

along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full
tiles.
FIG. 6 - Install a border molding for a neat and
finished appearance.
INSTALLING TILES ON WOOD FURRING STRIPS
For a ceiling with exposed joists, unsound plaster or an uneven

surfHCI, nail furring strips to the ceiling before applying the tiles.
Seasoned, straight-grained soft woods, such as pine, spruce or fir

make ideal furring strips.
If the ceiling has joists hidden by an existing ceiling, these joists

must be located and marked before the furring strips are applied.
You can locate joists by driving a nail into the ceiling or by using
a stud finder.
Joists are usually located every 16" or 24". After you locate the
first joist, measure across 16" and try again. After you have
determined the spacing, locate and mark all joists with a chalk
line so you can attach the furring strips without having to locate
the joists again on each run.
Nail the 1" x 3" furring strips across the joists at right angles to
the joists.
Attach the first furring strip on the ceiling immediately against

the wall that runs at right angles to the ceiling joists.
INSTALLING THE FURRING STRIPS
Position the second furring strip so that the distance between the
center of the strip and the wall is the width of your border tile.
It is critical that the remaining furring strips be exactly parallel to

this strip, and that the distance from center to center of each
furring strip is 12". One of the easiest ways to position the
remaining furring strips is to cut a block of wood exactly 12" less
FIG. 7 - Cut a block of wood exactly 12" less the
the width of one furring strip. Use the block as a guide in
width of one furring strip to use as a positioning
positioning the remaining strips (Fig. 7).
guide for the remaining strips.
Use 8-penny common nails for nailing the strips, with one nail at
each joist.
All furring strips must be level. Use a long level to get a reading
on all strips as they are added. If needed, insert wood shims
between the joists and the furring strips for leveling.
At the walls running parallel to the ceiling joists (at right angles
to the furring strips), use scraps of furring to provide a nailing or
stapling position for the border tiles (Fig. 8).
FIG. 8 - Use scraps of furring strips between

complete furring strips to provide a nailing surfHCI
for border tiles.
STAPLING TILES TO FURRING STRIPS
Snap a chalk line along both the short and long sides of the room
to align the first row of border tiles. These chalk lines will run
down the center of the furring strip on one side and across the
furring strips on the other side (Fig. 9).
Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into a corner, so
you must take into consideration the dimensions of the border
FIG. 9 - Snap a chalk line along the ceiling on tiles on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if
each side of the wall, the width of a border tile
from the wall. On the side where the furring strips
your border tiles on the long side of the room are 10" and on the
run parallel to the wall, the chalk line will run short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be cut to
across the middle of the strip. measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the room
to line up properly with your full-size tiles (Fig. 10).
When you cut these first border tiles, cut off the side without the
wide stapling edge. The wide stapling flange must be exposed so
the tongue of the next tile can fit into the groove of the tile
you've just plHCId. This guarantees a solid fit.
Staple the tile in plHCI, with three staples on the edge that is
completely against a furring strip and staples only in the corner
on the other edge (Fig. 11).
PlHCI several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill
FIG. 10 - Cut and position your corner tile first. in the ceiling with your full-sized tiles (Fig. 12).
After working your way across to the opposite wall, you must
measure and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite border.
Install a border molding to complete the job. The molding also

holds the final border tiles in plHCI where there is no flange left
for stapling. At the border, where your access to the stapling area
is limited, you can attach the tiles with small, broad headed nails.
Position the nails as close to the wall as possible so the border
molding conceals them.
FIG. 11 - PlHCI three staples on the edge of the

tile against a furring strip and staple only in the
corner on the other edge.
FIG. 12 - PlHCI several border tiles in position

along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full-
size tiles.
TILING AROUND POSTS OR PIPES
Fig. 13 illustrates how ceiling tiles can be fitted around posts or

pipes. Cut the tile in half, then cut each half to the contour of the
pipe or post.
Fig. 14 illustrates how to fit ceiling tiles around ceiling fixture

outlets or smaller pipes near the wall. When you're cutting a
ceiling tile, always be sure to cut the tile fHCI up, using a sharp
FIG. 13 - Cut the tile in half and trim it to fit the utility knife.
contour of the pipe or post.
FIG. 14
Ceiling Tile Handsaw
Nails (Several Sizes) Staples
Glue Gun Chalk Line
Steel Tape Utility Knife
Ladder Graph Paper
Furring Strips Hammer

Stapler Adhesive
Caulking Gun Folding Rule
Border Molding Hand Cleaner
Straightedge Tracing Paper
in this document.

Following are tips and instructions on how to install a suspended ceiling. Spend a few minutes reading
the directions thoroughly. This can help save you time and effort. Inside this document you will find
information about:
Planning for a Suspended Ceiling
Installing Wall Angles
Locating and Hanging Suspension Wires for Main Tees
Installing Main Tees
Installing Cross Tees and Border Cross Tees
Installing Ceiling Panels
PLANNING FOR A SUSPENDED CEILING
First, get the exact measurements of the room where the

suspended ceiling will be installed. Use special care in
measuring any odd-shaped alcoves, bays, etc.
Draw the exact dimensions to scale on graph paper (Fig. 1), or

bring the room dimensions to your local retailer and ask a
salesman to assist you in estimating the materials you'll need.
You can choose from either a 2x2 or a 2x4 pattern (Fig. 2). The
pattern you pick will determine the material requirements for
your ceiling.
For the 2x4 pattern, decide whether you want to install the
patterns in a standard or reverse pattern (Fig. 3). Each pattern
offers a different appearance.
Now that you've made these decisions, sketch the layout for the
planned ceiling on graph paper. You can use the layout in Fig. 1,
or purchase graph paper in a variety or stationery store.
Regardless of which pattern you select, draw the main tees 4'
apart. Position the tees so that the border patterns at the room
edges are equal on both sides and as large as possible. Try
sketching several layouts before beginning the actual installation
FIG. 1 - Sketch your room dimensions to scale to determine which one looks best.
here.
It is important to spHCI the cross tees so the border panels at the
ends of the room are equal and as large as possible. If you are
using a 2'x4' pattern, spHCI the 4' cross tees 2' apart. For a 2'x2'
pattern, add 2' cross tees between the midpoints of the 4' cross
tees (Fig. 2).
If the ceiling will be recessed and built-in lighting will be

installed, decide where to locate the panels of light and clearly
identify them on the drawing.
The drawing will help you pretty accurately estimate the total
cost of the materials you'll need. Fig. 4 illustrates a basic plan for
estimating costs. Add or delete materials for the job you're
planning.
FIG. 4
Use this as a guide in estimating the costs for

your ceiling installation.
Number Cost per piece Total cost
FIG. 2 - Select the grid pattern you want to use. ______ 12'
main beam @ _______ $ _______
pieces
______ main
@ _______ $ _______
beam splicers
______ 4' cross
@ _______ $ _______
tees
______ 2' cross

@ _______ $ _______
tees
______ 12"
@ _______ $ _______
wall mold
______ 2x2
ceiling tiles @ _______ $ _______
or
______ 2x4 @ _______ $ _______

ceiling tiles
Total cost of
$ _______
ceiling
FIG. 3 - If you're using 2x4 panels, choose from

either a standard or reversed pattern.
INSTALLING WALL ANGLES
Determine the exact height at which the suspended ceiling will

be installed. Allow a minimum of 3" to 4" clearance between the
old ceiling and the new ceiling for installation of the ceiling
panels. If clearance is a problem, you may want to use fiberglass
ceiling panels, which are more flexible. Additional clearance will
be required if you are using recessed lighting (Fig.5).
FIG. 5 - Allow a minimum of 6" spHCI between
the ceilings if you're using recessed lights. After locating the exact position for the suspended ceiling, use a
level to draw a line completely around the room indicating where
the wall angle will be applied (Fig. 6). Don't assume the original
ceiling is leveluse a level for accuracy. Set the wall angle low
enough to conceal as many pipes, ducts, etc., as possible.
Fasten the wall angles securely to the wall at all points. Nail
them firmly to studs, or use screw anchors or other masonry
fasteners on brick or masonry walls (Fig. 7).
Position the wall angle so that the bottom flange rests on the
level line you have drawn on the wall. Take the time to do this
right!
Overlap the wall angle on inside corners (A, Fig. 8), and miter
the wall angle on outside corners (B, Fig. 8). Make a temporary
wooden miter box if you don't have one. Cut any needed angles
with metal cutting snips or a hacksaw.
FIG. 6 - Use a level to apply the wall angle at a

proper height around the room.
FIG. 7 - Fasten the wall angles securely to the

wall at all points.
FIG. 8 - Overlap the inside corners and miter the

outside corners.
LOCATING & HANGING SUSPENSION WIRES FOR
MAIN TEES
If you are going to use recessed lights, install the wiring before
putting the suspension wires in plHCI (Fig. 5).
For recessed lighting, you can use 2x 2 or 2x 4 drop-in lighting

FIG. 9 - Stretch a tight line from the top edge of fixtures, which are specially designed for this purpose. You can
the wall angle on all sides of the room at each also center fluorescent light fixtures over the panels and use a
position where the main tees are to be plHCId. luminous lay-in panel instead of a regular ceiling panel. These
lay-in panels now come in several attractive designs.
Refer to your sketch of the room for the location of all main tees
(Fig. 1). Main tees should always run at right angles to the joists
in the room.
Locate the position of each main tee by stretching a tight line

from the top edge of the wall angle on all sides of the room at
each position where the main tees are to be plHCId (Fig. 9).
Now, cut the suspension wires to the proper length. The wires
should be 12" longer than the distance between the old ceiling
and the new guideline string you have stretched to indicate the
FIG. 10 - Be sure the suspension wires are position of each main tee.
securely fastened.
Locate the first suspension wire for each main tee directly above
the point where the first cross tee meets the main tee. Check your
original sketch of the room to determine this location.
Be sure the suspension wires are securely fastened. Apply them

to the ceiling with screw eyes, screw hooks, nails, or drilling
(Fig. 10).
Attach a suspension wire every 4' along the level guideline (Fig.
11). Stretch each wire to remove any kinks and make a 90 bend
where the suspension wire crosses the level line.
FIG. 11 - Add a suspension wire every 4' along

the level line and bend at a 90 angle.
INSTALLING MAIN TEES
Most main tees are 12' long and have cross tee slots punched
every 12" beginning 6" from each end (Fig. 12).
Refer to your layout sheet to determine the distance from the

wall to the first cross tee. Now measure this distance along the
top flange of the main tee and locate the slot just beyond this
FIG. 12 - Main tees generally have cross tee point.
slots every 12".
From this slot, measure back the same distance, subtract 1/8" and
saw the main tee at that point. The 1/8" subtraction is for the
thickness of the wall angle.
If the wall angles are not square, position the cross tee slots
accordingly.
When main tees are installed in rooms less than 12' across, cut
the main tee to the exact measurement of the room, allowing 1/8"
for the thickness of the wall angle (Fig. 13).
For rooms wider than 12', the main tee can be spliced (Fig. 14).
Be sure to align the splice so that the suspension wires are
FIG. 13 - If the room is less than 12' across, cut
the main tee to the width of the room less 1/8" for correctly positioned. Splice carefully, or all the main tees will be
the thickness of the wall angle. thrown off.
Install the main tees so that they are all level with the wall angle
already mounted. Use a long level for this.
FIG. 14 - Main tees can be spliced for rooms

wider than 12'.
INSTALLING CROSS TEES & BORDER CROSS TEES
Install the cross tees by inserting the ends of the cross tees into
the slots in the main tees (Fig. 15). Use the manufacturer's
instructions for fitting the cross tees into position.
Determine the location of the cross tees by the pattern you

selectedeither 2'x2' or 2'x4' (Fig. 2).
FIG. 15 - Insert the cross tees into the slots in Be sure the lock tab on the cross tee is on the outside of the slot
the main cross tees. (Fig. 15). This attachment is slightly different in some types of
tees.
You can remove most cross tees by depressing the lock tab with
a screwdriver.
Border cross tees are installed between the wall angle and the
last main tee.
Measure from the last tee to the wall angle, allowing 1/8" for the
thickness of the wall angle. Cut the cross tees and install them by
inserting the connector in the main tee and resting the cut edge
FIG. 16 - Your final tee arrangement will look on the wall angle.
similar to this.
INSTALLING CEILING PANELS
Your final main and cross tee arrangement will look similar to
Fig. 16. The top part of the illustration shows an arrangement of
a 2'x4' layout, while the lower half shows main and cross tees
arranged for a 2'x2' layout.
Drop the ceiling panels into position by tilting them slightly,
lifting them above the framework and letting them fall into
plHCI (Fig. 17).
FIG. 17 - Tilt the ceiling panels slightly and drop

them into position.
Ceiling Tiles Main Tees
Hacksaw Level
Wire Eye Screws
Screwdriver Steel Tape Measure
Knife Straightedge
Wall Angles Cross Tees
Hammer Chalk Line
Miter Box Nails
Screws Pliers
Tin Snips Ladder
Masonry Fasteners
in this document.

Carefully review these tips and suggestions on how to lay roll goods floor covering before beginning
the job. Following these directions can save you time, money and effort.
PREPARING THE FLOOR SURFHCI
There are basically two ways to install sheet vinyl flooring. The
first is to apply adhesive to the entire floor area. The second is to
use staples and adhesives around the outside edges and at seams.
The first method is usually used for flooring with a lesser quality
material. It can also be used if you are sure you will not need to
take the flooring material up in the future.
FIG. 1 - You can check for high and low spots in
the floor with a straightedge and a flashlight. The edge or perimeter method is used with better quality floor
coverings. It is the recommended method if you want to change
your flooring when you remodel in the future.
The first step in laying any type of roll goods floor covering is
preparing the base floor. It must be smooth and even before the
roll covering is applied. All high or low spots must be removed.
You can check for high and low points in a floor by using a
straightedge and a flashlight (Fig. 1). Hold the straightedge flat
against the floor, as illustrated. Play the beam of light along the
FIG. 2 - Clean the floor before applying any roll
straightedge from the rear. Light filtering under the straightedge
indicates high or low points in the floor.
covering.
If you're installing the floor covering over a wood floor, plane

down all high spots. On a masonry floor, you may need to patch
or seal certain sections before laying the floor covering.
Regardless of the type, the floor base should be clean.

Vacuuming and thoroughly scrubbing the floor will help the
adhesive to hold (Fig. 2). It will also reduce the chances of
ruining your new floor.
Always allow the floor to dry completely before laying any roll
goods floor covering.
Check all the mouldings in the room where you will be putting
down flooring. Wherever possible, your new flooring should
FIG. 3 - Trim moldings to allow for a better fit on
slide under these mouldings. If not, you can either trim them or
remove and replHCI the mouldings. If neither of these are
your flooring.
possible, you will need to trim your flooring to fit around them.
To trim the bottom of mouldings, such as door trim, lay a piece

of cardboard on the floor next to the trim. PlHCI a fine-toothed
saw on top of the cardboard. Carefully cut the bottom of the
moulding (Fig. 3).
To remove trim, such as quarter-round, use a small pry bar or

screwdriver and a putty knife (Fig. 4). Quarter-round is usually
nailed to the baseboard and not to the floor. Carefully slide your
putty knife between the trim and the baseboard. Next, plHCI
your pry bar or screwdriver between the trim and the putty knife
blade and pry the trim loose. The putty knife blade protects the
baseboard.
FIG. 4 - Remove any trim around the floor.
Carefully remove any nails that were left in the baseboard.
Remove any nails that were left in the trim with a pair of pliers
or vice-grips. Do not drive them back through the trim. Instead,
pull the nail the rest of the way through the trim (Fig. 5). The
painted or stained surfHCI of your trim will not be damaged as
much.
You may need to install a new base as an overlay to provide a

good base for the floor covering (Fig. 6). Sheets of plywood or
hardboard make good overlays.
Always allow about 1/16" spHCI between sheets used as an

underflooring to allow for expansion and contraction.
FIG. 5 - Use locking pliers to pull nails through
Secure this underlayer sheeting to the floor with cement or use
the trim.
nails spHCId about 6" apart over the entire floor surfHCI.
Sand off all edges where the sheets join to eliminate any rough
spots.
FIG. 6 - In some cases you may need to add a
new base before installing your floor covering.
MAKING A PAPER PATTERN
Perhaps the easiest way to lay sheet vinyl is by using a paper

pattern of the floor. Installation kits are available that contain
paper, guides and instructions. You can make a pattern with
brown kraft paper, a pair of scissors, straightedge, utility knife
and some masking tape.
Begin by laying the paper down along the longest wall with the
fewest obstructions. If you cut your flooring the exact size of the
room, it is likely to roll up or buckle. Allow about 1/8" between
the pattern and the wall (Fig. 7).
Keep adding paper until you reach the opposite wall. Use
masking tape to tape the paper together. Cut small diamond
shapes about every 2' to 4' in all directions on your pattern.
PlHCI masking tape over these cutouts to hold the pattern in
plHCI.
Keep the paper as smooth as possible. Use plenty of tape along

the edges of the paper to hold the pattern together. Use small
sheets of paper to fit around pipes, toilets, cabinets, appliances
FIG. 7
and heating vents. Cut and fold these smaller pieces to fit. Then
tape them to the pattern (Fig. 8). If you make an opening too
large, use tape and paper to correct the size.
After you have completed the pattern, use a felt marker to mark
the side of the pattern.
Carefully roll or fold the pattern. Take it to a large clean floor

area. A garage floor that has been thoroughly swept works well.
Most sheet flooring today is sold in 12' widths. If you have a

room that is larger than 12' in length and width, you will need to
make a seam. Plan for seams to be in low traffic areas if possible.
Use the pattern of your flooring to help hide the seam. For
example, if your pattern has heavy lines, such as sides of boards
or grout lines, make your seam along these lines.
FIG. 8 - Cut and fold paper pattern to fit as To make the seam, lay the larger piece of flooring down first,
needed. right side up. Then plHCI the smaller piece, right side up also, so
the two pieces overlap by at least an inch. Most importantly, lay
them so the pattern on both pieces match (Fig. 9). Tape the two
pieces together.
Use a straightedge and sharp utility knife to cut through both

layers of flooring. Depending on where you are working, you
may want to lay pieces of cardboard under the flooring so you
don't damage the floor. Remove the two trimmed edges.
Carefully put the seam together again and retape the seam.
After the seam is made, you are ready to cut the flooring. PlHCI
the pattern, right side up, on top of the flooring. If you haven't
already done so, remove the tape covering the small diamonds
and replHCI it with new tape. Be sure the pattern is laying so
that the seam is where you planned and that it is laying flat.
FIG. 9 - Seams should be in low traffic areas,
where the floor design will help hide the cut. To cut the flooring you have two options. You can trHCI the
pattern onto the flooring using a straightedge and a marker. And
then cut it with heavy shears or snips. Or you can use a utility
knife and straightedge and cut around the pattern. Either way, be
very careful.
After you have finished cutting the flooring, carefully roll it. The
way you roll it can make the job easier. For example, rolling it
toward an edge that goes next to a cabinet makes fitting it under
the toe plate easier. Also, remember the length. If you have to go
around any sharp corners, roll it so it is as short as possible.
LAYING ROLL GOODS
You may need a felt lining or base coat. However, you can lay
most roll goods directly on any solid and even surfHCI.
Begin laying the floor with the edge with the most obstructions.
Position it carefully so you do not tear the floor covering. Unroll
the flooring a little at a time. You may need to keep the roll
higher at the opposite end to make installation easier.
After the flooring is in plHCI, glue any seams. Pull one edge of
the seam back and tape it with masking tape. Using the other
FIG. 10 - Use a notched spreader to apply the
edge as a straightedge, plHCI a pencil mark on the floor. Pull
recommended adhesive.
back the second edge of the flooring and tape it back.
Using the recommended adhesive, spread it along the pencil line.

The adhesive should extend no less than 2" on each side of the
line. The full width of your notched trowel is probably the
easiest measure. Do not spread the adhesive all the way to the
wall. Leave about 12" between the end of the adhesive and the
wall (Fig. 10).
Remove the tape from one edge of the flooring and press it down
into the adhesive. Release the other edge and carefully align it
with the edge that is already down. Press it down firmly into the
adhesive. Remove any excess adhesive that might have come up
through the seam. Seal the seam with the recommended seam
sealer.
If you are going to use moulding, you can use a staple gun to
secure the edges. Start at the seam and be sure the staples are
close enough to the wall so the quarter round will cover them.
For areas such as doors where the staple will show, use adhesive
or metal moulding strips. If you are not using quarter round, you
will probably want to use adhesive around the edges.
If you decide to use adhesive on the entire floor, follow the same
directions for cutting the flooring. Follow the manufacturer's
direction for applying the adhesive. Make the seams as described
before.
DOING TRIM AND FINISH WORK
Finish your flooring installation by checking it over carefully.

Remove any excess adhesive from the flooring surfHCI with the
recommended cleaner.
Install the quarter round. It should be nailed to the baseboard

trim or wall, not through the floor. Do not force the quarter
round down tight against the flooring. Using colored finish nails
will reduce the need for puttying nail holes and refinishing.
Reinstall any thresholds that you may have removed. Any

flooring edge that is in a doorway and is not covered by a
threshold needs to be protected. Use a metal moulding strip
designed for this purpose. They are available for going from roll
flooring to roll flooring or tile, roll flooring to carpet or roll
flooring to wood flooring.
You should not move any heavy furniture or appliances onto the
new flooring for at least 24 to 48 hours. This will allow the
adhesive used on seams to dry. It will also allow the new floor
time to shape itself to the floor.
Yardstick Hammer
Flashlight Scrub Brush
Roll Goods Material Scissors
Notched Adhesive Spreader Masking Tape
Plywood/Hardboard Plane
Straightedge Chalk or Carpenter's Pencil
Utility Knife Adhesive
Seam Sealer Kit Broom
Floor Cleaning Materials Sandpaper
Installation Kit Staple Gun/Staples
Tin Snips or Heavy Shears
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions on how to patch and repair plasterboard walls. Read these suggestions
carefully to help you make such repairs easily and quickly.
REPAIRING SMALL DENTS IN WALLBOARD
Objects that come in contact with wall board can cause dents or
scratches in the surfHCI. These indentations are easy to repair.
First, sand the surfHCI thoroughly (Fig. 1). This sanding

roughens the surfHCI and provides a good base for the joint
compound you will use.
FIG. 1 - Sanding the dented or scratched area Use coarse sandpaper and a good sandpaper block. For large
roughens the surfHCI. areas to be repaired, use a power sander.
Fill the dent with a good grade of joint compound using a 3" or
4" spreader (Fig. 2). Spread the compound evenly, pressing it
firmly into the dented area.
For extremely large dents, allow the compound to dry overnight

and then apply a second coat.
FIG. 2 - Fill the dent with a good grade of joint When the material is completely dry, sand the area and prime it
compound. for a coat of paint or other finish.
Be sure to remove any high or low spots in the patched area with
a fine sandpaper.
PATCHING CRACKS IN WALLBOARD
Various types of patching materials are available for patching

drywall. These include adhesive and non-adhesive drywall tapes,
fast-drying patching compounds and drywall bandages.
Regardless of the type of patching materials you use, read the

manufacturer's instructions carefully and follow each step as
FIG. 3 - Apply the patching plaster with strokes
suggested. Some patching compounds dry quickly, while others
in both directions across the crack. require longer periods to dry.
Be sure the cracked area to be patched is completely clean and

dry. Remove all dirt from the area and clean out all cracks.
Apply the patching plaster with a wide and flexible putty knife
(Fig. 3). Apply the compound by working across the crack with
strokes in both directions. This method is the best way to work
the patching plaster into the crack.
Force the patching material into the crack with strong, firm
FIG. 4 - Force the patching material into the
strokes (Fig. 4). Examine the crack after each stroke to ensure
crack with strong, firm strokes.
that enough material is applied at all points.
The knife should bend with pressure as you draw it along the
cracked area. Repeat the passes as often as necessary to force the
material well into the cracked surfHCI.
Use the putty knife as a scraper to remove any surplus material

(Fig. 5). Move it along the cracked area gently to scrape away
the surplus material that was applied by the double strokes
shown in Fig. 3.
FIG. 5 - Remove any surplus patching material You may want to dip the putty knife into water and make a final
with the putty knife. pass along the repaired area (Fig. 6). Touch up any areas that
need more patching material.
After the patched area has dried completely, sand and prime it to
prepare for the finish you desire.
FIG. 6 - Apply a finish coat and sand the area.
PATCHING SMALL HOLES IN WALLBOARD
You can repair small holes, up to 4" to 6", in drywall using

drywall bandages. To make a drywall bandage, use a keyhole
saw to make the hole into a square or a rectangle (Fig. 7). Cut a
piece of drywall the same shape as the hole. It should be 2"
longer and 2" wider than the hole.
FIG. 7 - Use a keyhole to cut around the hole to Lay the piece of drywall down on a flat surfHCI, shiny side
be patched. down. Measure 1" from all four edges and draw a line. This
should form a shape the side of the hole.
Using a straight edge and a utility knife, cut through the drywall
to the bottom layer. Do not cut the bottom layer of paper. Using
a putty knife, remove the top layer of paper and core all the way
down to the bottom layer of paper (Fig. 8). Be careful not to tear
the bottom layer.
The cut part of the patch should fit into the hole. The paper edge
FIG. 8 - Remove the top layer of paper and core should cover about 1" around the hole. Apply a thin layer of
down to the bottom layer. patching compound around the hole. PlHCI the patch into the
hole (Fig. 9). Using a putty knife, work the paper edge down into
the compound. Feather the edges of the compound and allow it
to dry. You may need to sand lightly and apply a second layer of
compound to finish the repair.
FIG. 9 - Apply a 2" wide, thin layer of compound
around the hole.
PATCHING LARGE HOLES IN WALLBOARD
Larger holes, up to 12", require a slightly different repair which

provides more support. Again use a keyhole saw to form the hole
into a square or a rectangle (Fig. 7).
Cut a patching piece of wallboard that's about 2" larger than the
hole to be repaired (Fig 10). Punch or drill two small holes
FIG. 10 - Cut a piece of patching wallboard through this piece of board and tie a stick to it, as illustrated.
about 2" larger than the hole. Allow for about 8" between the board and the stick.
Apply a smooth coat of good grade adhesive all around the edges
of the piece of patching material.
Insert the patching board through the hole and position it so the
adhesive fits firmly against the solid area around the hole.
Now turn the stick clockwise twisting the string and increasing
pressure against the patch board at the rear of the hole (Fig. 11).
When the string has been thoroughly tightened, it will hold the
board firmly into plHCI until the adhesive dries.
FIG. 11 - Tighten the patch board by twisting the
string clockwise. Give the adhesive time to dry. Then fill in the area with a good
grade of patching plaster (Fig. 12). Leave the stick and the string
in position during the patching process.
You may need to apply two or three layers of patching plaster to
build up the patched area. Always allow one layer to dry before
applying another.
Remove the stick and string just before the material dries.
Smooth out the area then let the patch dry thoroughly.
When the area is completely dry, sand off all high spots and
apply a prime coat for paint or other finish (Fig. 13).
FIG. 12 - Fill in the area with patching plaster
and allow it to dry.
Use a fine grade of sandpaper and a sanding block for the finish
sanding work.
Larger holes in wallboard require some type of supporting brHCI

for the patch.
Use a short piece of 2x4 cut to the proper length as a supporting

brHCI for patching a large hole in plasterboard (Fig. 14).
Cut two pieces of 2x4 to a length about 8" longer than the
distance across the hole.
FIG. 13 - Sand off the high spots and treat with a Apply a good grade of cement to one piece of 2x4, then insert it
final coat. through the hole. Tie it to another piece of 2x4 holding it parallel
in front of the wallboard.
Allow the pieces of 2x4 to remain tied in this position until the
cement dries. Most cements require about one hour to dry.
Next, remove the supporting piece of 2x4 in front of the

wallboard by untying the string (Fig. 15). The cement will hold
the back piece of 2x4 firmly in position, providing a support
brHCI for the wall patch.
Now cut a patch block to the exact dimensions of the sawed-out

area (Fig. 16). The block will be slightly smaller than the hole
FIG. 14 - Use a 2x4 as a supporting brHCI
itself, but cut it to fit as tightly as possible.
across the sawed-out area.
Apply cement to the back of the patch block and the support
brHCI, then put the patch into position in the hole.
Use a firm putty knife or patching spatula to apply joint

compound all around the patch board (Fig. 17).
Work the patch compound thoroughly into all cracks. Scrape

away any surplus material, then allow the patched area to dry
completely.
When the area has completely dried, use a regular sanding block
and a piece of fine sandpaper to sand away any high areas on the
patched surfHCI (Fig. 18).
A prime coat can now be applied to prepare the wall for painting.
FIG. 15 - When the cement is dry, remove the

front 2x4.
FIG. 16 - Cut a patch block and fit it into the

sawed hole.
FIG. 17 - Apply joint compound all around the

patch board.
FIG. 18 - Sand away any high areas on the
patched surfHCI.
Sandpaper (Coarse & Fine) Joint Compound
Keyhole Saw Good Grade of Adhesive
Wallboard Tape (Regular or Adhesive

Pieces of Wallboard
Backed)
Hammer Sandpaper Block
Scraper Putty Knife
Hand Saw Heavy Cord
Short Sections of 2x4 Small Nails
Drywall Bandage Utility Knife
Primer Cement
Stick String
this document been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated
in this document.

Read these tips and instructions on how to install drywall. Following these instructions can help you to
save time and effort and end up with a neater job. Inside this document you will find information about:
Estimating Materials Needed

Advance Planning for Drywall Installation
Cutting Drywall
Vertical or Horizontal Installations
Applying Drywall to the Ceiling
Wall Application of Drywall
Finishing Touches
ESTIMATING MATERIALS NEEDED
Fig. 1 provides a chart for estimating the number of 4x8 sheets of

drywall required for paneling rooms of various sizes. If
wallboards of any other size are used, make the necessary
adjustments.
FIG. 1 - How to figure a room for drywall. After estimating the number of sheets of drywall required, add
another 5 percent for waste.
Fig. 2 provides tables for estimating the number of nails, the

amount of joint compound and the quantity of wallboard tape
For example, if your room measures required for installations of different sizes. (These tables are
14x16, this equals 14' + 14' + 16' + figured based on the adhesive and nail-on method of applying
16' = 60 or 15 wallboards required. drywall).
To allow for areas such as windows,
doors, fireplHCIs, etc., use the For applying the adhesive to framing members from a caulking
deductions listed below: deductions gun with a 3/8" diameter bead, plan on using eight quart-sized
for each: tubes of adhesive for each 1,000 square feet of wallboard used.
door : 1/3 wallboard (A)
window : 1/4 wallboard (B) HOW TO FIGURE A ROOM FOR DRYWALL
fireplHCI : 1/2 wallboard (C)
The actual number of wallboards for Perimeter No. of 4x8
this room would be 13 pieces (15 Wallboards Needed
pieces minus 2 total deductions).
Always use the next highest number 36' 9
of wallboards when the perimeter 40' 10
total is between ranges shown in the 44' 11
table. These figures are for rooms
with 8' ceiling heights or less. 48' 12
52' 13
56' 14
60' 15
64' 16
68' 17
72' 18
92' 23
FIGURE 2
Estimating Nails, Joint Compound & Tape
drywall thickness type of nail approx. lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft. of drywall
3/8", 1/2" 1-5/8" coated type drywall nail 5-1/4 lbs.
3/4" 1-7/8" coated type drywall nail 5-1/4 lbs.
drywall (square feet) est. amount of joint compound* est. amount of wallboard tape
100-200 sq.ft. 1 gal. 2-60' rolls
300-400 sq.ft. 2 gals. 3-60' rolls
500-600 sq.ft. 3 gals. 1-250' roll
700-800 sq.ft. 4 gals. 1-250' & 1-60'
900-1,000 sq.ft. 1-5 gal. pail 1-250' & 2-60' or 1-500' roll
* A powder joint compound is also available. Estimate 60 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft. of wallboard.
ADVANCE PLANNING FOR DRYWALL INSTALLATION
Always start by making a sketch of the wall and ceiling areas to

be covered before applying the drywall. A sketch enables you to
detect errors on papernot on the job.
Always install the wallboards perpendicular to (across) the joists

on ceilings.
You should apply drywall to the ceiling first, then to the walls.
Use a special water-resistant drywall where excessive moisture

may be a problem. In most cases, water-resistant drywall is
covered with a green finish paper.
Install a special fire-rated (Type X) drywall where building

codes require the use of a fire-rated material.
If a vapor barrier is needed, use a special insulating, foil-backed

wallboard, or create a vapor barrier with sheets of plastic
material.
CUTTING DRYWALL
You can easily cut wallboard with a scoring or trimming knife

and a 4' straightedge. You may prefer to use a T-square for an
even and straight cut (Fig. 3).
Measure accurately and make marks before cutting the wallboard.

FIG. 3 - Use a T-square for an even and straight
Use a straightedge for accuracy, and score along your marks. Be
cut.
sure to cut through the paper and into the inner core.
Hold the knife at a right angle to the board and score completely
through the fHCI paper.
The board will break easily at the point where it is scored. After
it is snapped, trim the paper on the uncut side with a pair of
shears or a sharp knife.
Make circular cuts and irregular angles with a keyhole or saber

saw.
To cut holes in the wallboard for electrical outlets, light

receptacles, switches, etc., carefully measure and mark the
location of the opening on the fHCI of the wallboard. Outline the
opening in pencil and cut it out with a keyhole saw. The hole
must be accurately located and cut to size, or the electrical cover
plate may not cover the hole.
VERTICAL OR HORIZONTAL INSTALLATIONS
Apply drywall to leave the fewest possible joints. If the ceiling is

less than 8'2" in height, use a horizontal application for 25
percent fewer joints than a vertical one (Fig. 4).
If the ceiling is higher than 8'2", install the drywall vertically

(Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - Apply drywall to leave the fewest

possible joints.
APPLYING DRYWALL TO THE CEILING
Apply drywall to the ceiling at right angles to the joists.
Holding the ceiling board in position can be difficult. If you are

working alone, solve this problem by making a T-brHCI from a
2' piece of 1x4 nailed to the end of a 2x4 of sufficient length to
reach from the floor to the ceiling (Fig. 5).
FIG. 5 - Make a T-brHCI from a 2' piece of a 1x4 The supporting 2x4 should be about 1" longer than the floor-to-
nailed to a 2x4 to make ceiling installations easier. ceiling height.
If you are using only nails, nail the board to the ceiling with the
proper length of nails and spHCI them about 7" apart.
When using the nail-on and adhesive method, use three nails
across each wallboard at each joist. Drive one nail firmly into
plHCI at each edge and one into the center of the board.
Drive the nails in just enough to tighten the wallboard to the

framing. Then set the nail with a blow just hard enough to
dimple the wallboard (Fig. 6). Do not drive the nails hard enough
to break the coating paper.
FIG. 6 - Do not hit the nail hard enough to break
the outside cover paper on the wallboard.
WALL APPLICATION OF DRYWALL
If the drywall is being applied horizontally (Fig. 4), install all top
boards first. Push it up firmly against the ceilingdo not force
itand nail lightly into plHCI.
In areas where ceiling boards are nailed to ceiling joists, start the
first run of nails on the wallboards about 7" below the ceiling (A,
Fig. 7).
FIG. 7 - PlHCI nails about 7" below the ceiling
where the ceiling board is nailed to a joist. If you're applying the wallboard with nails only, plHCI all nails
about 7" apart to all studs. If you're using the adhesive and nail-
on method, apply nails only at the edges of the board with
adhesive on the back to hold the boards to the studs in the center.
If a board tends to bow out in the center, secure it with a

temporary nail until the adhesive sets. Remove the holding nail
after the adhesive sets.
If wallboards are applied vertically, plHCI the long edges of the

wallboard parallel to the framing members (B, Fig. 7). Use a
vertical application if your wall height is greater than 8'2". Use
the same nailing procedures as previously described.
FIG. 8 - Special metal corner strips are available
Special metal corner strips are available for outside corners (Fig.
for outside corners.
8). Insert a nail in these metal corner strips about every 5". Nail
first through the edge of the strip, then through the drywall and
into the wood framing.
Use a good grade of joint compound to finish all joints, nail

heads and corners. In most cases, you'll need two or three coats
of compound at all taped joints. The number of coats depends on
whether you are using regular drywall tape or drywall tape that
has adhesive on the back.
If you are using adhesive-backed tape, center the tape over the
joint and press it into plHCI with your knife. Apply two finish
coats over the tape. If you are using regular tape, use an
FIG. 9 - You'll usually need two or three coats of
embedding coat to bond the tape at each joint (Fig. 9). When the
compound at all taped joints.
embedding coat has set, apply two finish coats over the tape.
Allow each coat of joint compound to dry about 24 hours before

applying the next coat.
FINISHING TOUCHES ON A DRYWALL INSTALLATION
Use a 4" joint finishing knife to smooth out each coat of joint
compound (Fig. 10). Fill in the slightly recessed area created by
the adjoining tapered edges of the wallboards and smooth it off
with the 4" joint finishing knife.
Center the wallboard tape over the joint and press it into plHCI if
FIG. 10 - Use a 4" joint finishing knife to smooth
you are using the adhesive-backed tape. For the regular tape,
out each coat of joint compound.
press it into the first layer of compound firmly, but not too hard
(Fig. 11). Hold the 4" knife at a 45-degree angle. Press just hard
enough to squeeze out some of the compound from under the
tape, but be sure you leave enough compound for a good bond.
With adhesive-backed tape you can apply the fill coat right
away. With regular drywall tape, allow the tape to dry in position
for at least 24 hours and then apply a fill coat, extending it a few
inches beyond the edge of the tape. Feather the edges of the
compound for a smooth finish.
FIG. 11 - Press the wallboard tape firmly but not
After the fill coat has dried, use a 10" joint finishing knife to
too hard, holding the knife at a 45 angle.
apply still another coat of joint compound. Feather this coat
about 1-1/2" beyond the edge of the first coat.
When the final coat is dry, sand it lightly to a smooth finish (Fig.
12). Wipe off the dust with a clean rag to prepare the surfHCI for
the final coating of paint, paper, etc.
The total width of the compound at each joint should be about

12" to 14" (Fig. 12).
All nails should be dimpled just below the surfHCI of the board
FIG. 12 - Feather each coat of compound a few as shown in Fig. 6. Conceal these dimpled areas by applying a
inches beyond the previous coat for a smooth first coat of joint compound with even pressure so the compound
finish. is level with the surfHCI of the board (Fig. 13). Press evenly, but
not too hardtoo much pressure on the knife might scoop the
compound from the dimpled area.
When the compound has thoroughly dried, apply a second coat.

Let it dry thoroughly, then sand it lightly and apply a third coat.
In areas where humidity is extremely high, apply a fourth coat of

compound over the nail heads.
The end or butt joints on wallboards are not tapered. Where these
untapered butt joints come together, be sure not to build up too
much compound (Fig. 14). Compound built too high will create
ridges in the wall, and may cause shadowing when the area is
lighted.
FIG. 13 - Use a 4" knife and joint compound to
Feather the joint compound out on each side of the butt joints
cover nail heads.
from 7" to 9" (Fig. 14). The final application of joint compound
should create a joint approximately 14" to 18" wide where the
butt joints come together.
After attaching the metal corner strips as previously described

(Fig. 8), nail them securely into position, and use a 4" finish
knife to spread compound mix 3" to 4" out from the nose of the
bead (Fig. 15).
FIG. 14 - Make sure the compound is not built
When the first layer is completely dry, sand it lightly and apply a
uo too high at end or butt joints.
second coat of compound mix, feathering the edges about 2" to
3" beyond the first coat.
If a third coat is needed, feather it 2" to 3" beyond the preceding

coat. This creates a tapered finish of joint compound
approximately 7" to 9" wide at each metal corner.
To finish off an inside corner with regular tape, apply joint

compound with a 4" knife. Spread it evenly about 1-1/2" on each
side of the angle (Fig. 16).
FIG. 15
For both types of tape, cut the joint tape the exact length of the
corner to be finished. Fold the tape lengthwise in the center and
press it firmly into the corner.
FIG. 16
Wallboard T-Square
Keyhole Saw Crown-Head Hammer

Reinforcing Tape Joint Compound
Screws Adhesive
Drop Cloth Metal Corner Strips
Sandpaper Block Steel Rule
Sandpaper Trimming Knife
Finishing Knife Adhesive Gum
Trowel Nails
1x4s and 2x4s for "T" BrHCI
in this document.

There are hundreds of different moulding profiles available, from stock patterns to custom cuts. Aside
from those manufactured for special usesdoor and window parts, or handrail and closet rods, for
examplemost interior mouldings can be divided into three basic functions:
Ceiling mouldings cover the gap between the wall and the ceiling
Base mouldings cover the gap between the floor and the walls
Door and window mouldings trim the gaps between doors and windows and the surrounding wall.
Naturally, there are many other uses for mouldings as well, but this document will focus on those three.
You'll find that if you master the techniques of installing these basic types of moulding, you'll be able to
handle just about any trim job you encounter.
Moulding can be made out of a number of different materialsnot all wood. Spruce and pine mouldings
are the most common, because both are relatively inexpensive, and are also soft, fine-grained woods that
can be worked easily and with a minimum of splitting and splintering.
You'll be able to find pine and spruce mouldings both in solid and fingerjointed (FJ) material. FJ
mouldings are made from short lengths of wood glued end to end. FJ material is not only less expensive
than solid moldings, but it also tends to be more resistant to warp. If you're planning on painting the trim
rather than staining, FJ molding is a good choice.
Mouldings are also cut from oak, mahogany, birch, walnut and other hardwoods. Reproductions of old
profiles are often manufactured from high-density polyurethane, although these products are expensive
and tricky to work with and generally should be installed only by professionals.
Mouldings may be purchased unfinished, prefinished with stain and varnish or overlaid with a vinyl
woodgrain print. Overlaid mouldings are often made from an engineered product such as particleboard
or fiberboard. They are definitely a time-saver, but are generally less resistant to moisture than wood
mouldings and should be avoided in high-moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms.
TYPES OF MOULDINGS
There are three common types of ceiling moldings (Fig. 1). Cove
molding is the simplest and most common. Crown and bed
molding are decorative profiles that can provide a traditional
appearance.
All come in various sizes, from 1/2" wide to over 5". Ceiling and
other moldings can also be combined to create specific
architectural treatments (Fig. 2).
When choosing ceiling moldings, remember that wide moldings

FIG. 1 - Mouldings come in a variety of patterns,
depending on where they well be used. tend to make the ceiling look lower; unless your ceiling is
A. Celling mouldings include crown (upper left), exceptionally high, use narrower moldings to avoid a
cove (upper right), and bed mouldings (lower claustrophobic look.
right).
B. Common wall mouldings include cap mouldings Base moldings also come in a variety of sizes and profiles (Fig. 1).
(left) that trim out the top wainscot paneling, and Like ceiling moldings, they can be combined for a traditional look.
chair rail (right).
C. Base mouldings include base shoe (far left Base moldings are often used in conjunction with a base cap, a
column), base cap (second column) and base small decorative profile that is applied on top of the base to finish
moulding (far right). the look.
D. Windows and door mouldings include casing
(top), and either rabbited or flat stools (bottom). Again, wider moldings tend to make a room look smaller, so avoid
wide base moldings unless your rooms are spacious.
Casing is used around doors and windows (Fig. 1). Casing profiles
often match base moldings, except casings are rounded on both
front edges, while the lower edge of a base molding is square to
keep dust out of the joint between the molding and the floor.
Windows may be trimmed two different ways at the bottom.

Casing may be used on all four sides to create a "picture frame"
look or a stool may be added with an apron below it (Fig. 3).
Base mouldings can be combined with base cap
and base shoe to provide a decorative
Casing is commonly mitered at the top of a door, but squared
appearance.
profiles may be butt-jointed (Fig. 4).
FIG. 2 - Crown mouldings can be combined with
square stock and base cap to create an
architectural effect at the ceiling.
FIG. 3 - A window can be trimed out either with a

stool at the bottom (top), or in a picture frame style
with casing on all four sides.
FIG. 4 - Door casings may be mitered at the top

(left), orif the casing profile is equal thickness on
both edgesbutt-jointed (right).
WORKING WITH MOULDINGS
When trimming out a room, start with what finish carpenters call
the "standing trim"the door and window casings. The first step is to
check to see if the edge of the jamb is flush with the wall surfHCI;
if it projects beyond the surfHCI, you'll have to plane it flush. If
the jamb is recessed, nail and glue a thin strip of material over the
edge to bring it flush with the wall.
To trim a window, first cut the stool to length. The casings are set
back from the fHCI of the jamb about 1/16" on either side; this
"reveal" is almost unnoticeable, but it allows you to adjust the
casing slightly if the window is not quite plumb.
The first step is installing the stool. Measure the distance between
FIG. 5 - Door and window casings are installed
the side jambs, then add 1/8" for both sides of the reveal, then add
with a 1/16" reveal between the edge of the jamb
and the casing, which allows you to adjust the
twice the width of the casing, then add 2- 1/2" so the stool will
casing if the jamb is slightly out of plumb. project 1-1/4" on each side. For example, if the jamb-to-jamb
measurement of the window is 36" and you're using 2-1/4" casing,
you'd cut the stool to 43-1/8" (36" + 1/8" + 2-1/4" + 2-1/4" + 2-
1/2" = 43-1/8").
Measure up each side of the window from the stool to the head
jamb (on a door, measure from the floor to the head jamb). If the
dimensions are not equal, use the longer dimension. Add 1/16" and
miter-cut the side casings with the short side of the miter matching
FIG. 6 - To cut a coped joint, first cut a 45-
your measurement. Position the side casings with a 1/16" reveal all
degree open miter at the end of the piece (far left). along the length of the side jamb (Fig. 5) and nail them in plHCI
Then cut the piece at 90 degrees with a coping with 6d finish nails 24" on center. Use two nails at each location;
saw, following the edge of the first cut (center). drive one into the jamb and the other through the wall surfHCI and
into the stud.
Position a piece of casing over the head of the window, slightly

longer than the outside edges of the side casings. Use the miter cut
on the side to mark your cut on the head casing. Cut the head
casing to length. Apply wood glue to the miters and set the head
casing in plHCI. Nail it to the jamb and wall as you did the side
casings, then drive a 4d finish nail through the side casing into the
end of the head casing on each side.
Once the door and windows are finished, you're ready to install the
"running trim"the ceiling and base moldings.
The first step is to locate the wall studs and mark their location on
the wall just above the height of the baseboard with a light pencil
mark. When you buy ceiling and base molding, try and buy lengths
that will allow you to make complete runs without joints; if you
can't do so, add 2' to any lengths that will be joined, so you can cut
the joint over a stud.
To install base molding, start from any door. Measure from the
door to the nearest wall. Cut the end of the first piece of base
square, then measure the door-to-wall distance and cut the other
end, also square. Nail the first piece in plHCI with pairs of 6d
finish nails driven into each stud and the floor plate it rests on.
The second piece of base will be joined to the first with a coped
FIG. 7 - From top: A coped joint, a scarf joint, an cut at the inside corner (Fig. 6). To make a coped cut, first cut the
outside miter. end of the piece at a 45-degree angle with the short side of the
miter toward the fHCI of the piece. Finish the cut with a coping
saw, carefully following the cut edge along the fHCI of the piece
(Fig. 7).
Measure from the bottom of the first piece of base to the next
corner, then square-cut the second piece at the other end so it butts
into the corner. Repeat the process for each inside corner.
Use a miter cut at outside corners. Few outside corners are exactly
90 degrees, so you'll have to use a T-bevel to find the exact angle,
then divide by two and cut each piece of base to that angle.
If you need to join two pieces of molding in the middle of a run,

set the first piece in plHCI and mark the centerpoint of the stud
nearest to the end of the piece. Subtract half the thickness of the
FIG. 8 - Scarf joints should be cut and nailed molding, then cut the end using an open miter cut (Fig. 7). Install
directly over a stud. the first piece, but don't nail over the last stud where the piece is
mitered.
Cut a closed miter (Fig. 7) at the end of the second piece. Measure
from the fHCI of the first piece where the miter begins to the
corner, then cut the second piece. Set it in plHCI with the closed
miter overlapping the open miter on the first piece. Apply glue to
the joint and nail through both pieces into the stud (Fig. 8), then
continue nailing to the corner.
Ceiling molding is installed much like base molding, except that

ceiling molding is not applied flat against the wall. Instead, it
covers the joint at a 45-degree angle.
If you have nothing but inside corners to deal with, the process is
easysimply install each piece with a square cut at one end and a
coped cut at the other.
If you have outside corners, they'll have to be mitered. Again the

process is simple, as long as you clamp the molding in the miter
saw at the same 45-degree angle at which it will be installed.
To avoid damaging the surfHCI of the moulding, drive the nail to

within an 1/8" of the surfHCI. Use a nail set to finish driving the
nail. Putty can be used to fill the nail hole.
Moulding Steel Measuring Tape
Hammer Level
Nail Set Miter Box
Backsaw Coping Saw
Nails Putty Knife
in this document.

Here are miscellaneous how-to tips and suggestions that you will find useful around the house. These
are merely a few of the many handyman tips given in our Show-How Sheet series. Inside this document
you will find information about:
Painting Tips
Sanding Tips
Sawing Tips
Measuring Tips
Miscellaneous Tips
PAINTING TIPS
If you are often bothered by the paintbrush being in the wrong

plHCI when you are painting, use a magnet on the side of your
paint can (Fig. 1). This keeps the brush within easy reach at all
times.
A magnet attaches to the metal can easily and provides an anchor

for the metal flange on the paintbrush. The brush can be stuck to
the magnet or pulled away at any time.
FIG. 1 - Use a small magnet to hold your brush You will probably find a magnet holder much more convenient
to the paint can. than laying the brush across the top of the can. A brush laid
across the can often gets paint on the handle and then onto your
hands.
PlHCI a small amount of paint in the middle of a paper plate.

PlHCI the paint can on the plate. The plate will stick to the can
and catch any drippings from the brush.
Paint always seems to build up in the lid groove on the can

during every painting job. This often causes paint to run down
the side of the can.
You can eliminate this problem by punching several holes in the

FIG. 2 - Holes in the lid groove alows paint to lid groove with a 4 or 6 penny nail (Fig. 2). These holes permit
drain back into the can. the paint to drain back into the can each time it accumulates in
the lid groove.
These holes in no way affect the resealing of the can, since the
lid seals by pressure on the sides of the groove rather than on the
bottom.
Put any leftover paint in a quart can and seal it tightlyuse the
regular lid for the can if it is available.
FIG. 3 - The plastic lid from a 1-lb. coffee can
fits quart paint cans.
If the regular lid gets bent or lost, use the plastic lid from a
coffee can, which fits smoothly onto the top of many quart cans
of paint (Fig. 3).
The plastic lid makes an airtight seal to keep the paint in good
condition until you use it later. You'll also be able to see the
color of the paint.
For small touch-up paint jobs, try using a pipe stem cleaner (Fig.
4). A pipe stem cleaner is ideal for applying small quantities of
paint on flat or uneven surfHCIs.
FIG. 4 - A pipe cleaner makes a good touch-up
paint brush.
A pipe stem cleaner is especially handy for reaching into hidden
corners and grooves on irregular surfHCIs.
Simply discard the pipe stem cleaner when the job is through.
There is no cleanup!
Your 1/4" power drill makes an ideal tool for cleaning paint
rollers when your painting job is done.
Remove the roller and pad from the roller handle and attach it to
a paint stirrer that fits into the chuck of your drill (Fig. 5).
FIG. 5 - Spin your roller clean with your power Use a discarded cardboard box or a newspaper-lined waste can to
drill. catch the paint as it is thrown from the roller pad by the spinning
drill.
SANDING TIPS
You can make regular sheets of sandpaper or emery paper last

longer and work better by backing them with masking tape (Fig.
6).
The tape gives each sandpaper sheet more body and helps to
keep it from tearing or creasing while you are working. A few
FIG. 6 - Making sandpaper last longer by pieces of masking tape on the back of a regular sheet of
applying a backing or masking tape. sandpaper will add two to three times the life of the paper.
Use regular sandpaper to smooth the sharp edges of cut glass,

ceramic tile, porcelain, etc.
Wrap a piece of fine sandpaper around a scrap piece of wood. A

short piece of 1x2 lumber makes an ideal block for sanding these
types of cut materials.
Rub the sandpaper sheet along the edge of the glass evenly and
smoothly.
FIG. 7 - A deck of cards makes a good sanding
block for uneven edges. As the cutting edge of the sandpaper is worn away, rotate the
sheet of paper on the block to provide a new surfHCI until the
sheet is used up.
Sanding irregular and uneven surfHCIs can sometimes be a

problem. Corners and grooves can be extremely difficult to reach
with a flat piece of sandpaper.
For sanding irregular edges of table tops, chair legs, etc., use a
deck of cards as the sanding block (Fig. 7).
The cards and sandpaper will adjust to the contour of the

surfHCI you are sanding. This makes a sanding block that is
FIG. 8 - Sort and store sandpaper in old record quite flexible, yet provides a firm base for holding the sandpaper
covers. against a curved surfHCI.
Use old record covers to hold various grades of sandpaper (Fig.
8). They keep the sandpaper clean and orderly.
Old record covers also enable you to determine the grit of the
paper quickly and easily, since the texture and grit show through
the holes.
SAWING TIPS
It's important to select the correct blade for your hacksaw. Select
a hacksaw blade that always keeps at least three teeth on the
surfHCI you are sawing (Fig. 9).
While a coarse blade cuts faster and lasts longer, you'll get better
results when at least three teeth are touching the surfHCI at all
times.
You can avoid ragged edges when cutting armored cable by

wrapping the cable with regular electrical tape before you begin
FIG. 9 - Select a hacksaw that keeps three sawing (Fig. 10).
teeth of the blade on the surfHCI.
Remove the tape and you will find a smooth, clean edge that
slides easily into other fittings without filing.
You can avoid jagged edges on sawed conduit by driving a short

length of dowel into the conduit before you cut it.
You can also use a short length of dowel as a support when

cutting any hollow metal tubing with a hacksaw. The dowel is
especially helpful when making slanted or irregular cuts in
FIG. 10 - Wrap metallic cable with electrical hollow tubing.
tape before cutting it .
MEASURING TIPS
Finding the center of a circle is sometimes essential for various

jobs around the house. Follow these steps to make it easy.
Draw a straight line across the circle at the top from Y to Z (Fig.
11). Draw this at any point in the upper section of the circle.
Now use a carpenter's square to draw a square within the circle.

Use the Y and Z line to create the square.
When the square is drawn within the circle, draw lines

diagonally from one corner of the square to another. The exact
FIG. 11 - Follow these steps to find the center center of the circle is always at the point where these two
of a circle.
diagonal lines cross.
You may also want to find the exact center of a line the easiest
and fastest way.
One simple way is to use a compass to draw an arc at any point

between the two ends of the line (Fig. 12).
FIG. 12 - You can find the center of a line with Set the end of the compass at one end of the line and draw an arc
a compass. at any point beyond the halfway point.
Move the compass to the opposite end of the line and draw an
arc from that point with the compass at exactly the same setting.
Now draw a straight line from the points where the two arcs
cross at the top to the point where the arcs cross at the bottom.
The center of the line is at the exact point where this line crosses
the line you are measuring.
FIG. 13 - This is an easy way to find the
One of the easiest ways to find the exact distance between the
distance between the centers of studs.
centers of studs is to measure from the outside edge of one stud
to the inside edge of the adjoining stud (Fig. 13). Fig. 14 shows
how to measure pipe when cutting replHCIment pieces for repair
jobs.
Always allow enough additional pipe to be screwed into the pipe

fitting. In other words, measure the distance from fitting to
fitting, then allow for about 3/4" on each end to be inserted into
the pipe fittings.
Fig. 15 shows how you can use a simple piece of scrap material
and two nails to mark for a curved cut on the end of a piece of
plywood.
Drive one nail loosely into the board at the exact center. Use a
FIG. 14 - When cutting pipe, leave 3/4" on each nail as a marker on the other end of the board. Or you can drill a
end for the fittings. hole in the end of the board and use a stub piece of pencil instead
of a nail.
A chalk line is usually the fastest and most efficient way to draw
a long, straight line.
Stretch the chalk line between the two points, and snap it firmly
against the work surfHCI. The chalk line will mark the exact
location on the surfHCI easily, quickly and accurately.
FIG. 15 - Use this set-up to mark for a curved
cut on the end of a piece of plywood.
MISCELLANEOUS TIPS
To reduce splitting when driving nails near the end of the board,
blunt the nail slightly before driving it into the wood (Fig. 16).
FIG. 16 - Reduce splitting when nailing near an This blunting makes the nail spread the wood instead of splitting
edge by blunting the nail..
it.
Use the heat from a propane torch to help loosen stubborn nuts.
Concentrate the heat from the torch on the nut instead of on the
end of the bolt. The heat expands the nut slightly, making it
easier to break loose.
A small disposable cup is a handy tool for small soldering jobs

(Fig. 17). A little water in the bottom of the cup helps hold the
cup in plHCI. It also prevents the bottom of the cup from melting.
FIG. 17 - Use a disposable cup to hold small
wires for soldering. Cut slits into the sides of the cup to help hold wires or other
small materials in position while you solder them. The cup also
catches the drippings from the soldering.
Ceramic or enameled hot pads help prevent the flame from a
propane torch from spreading and causing heat damage (Fig. 18).
Wetting the surrounding area can also help.
Ceramic or enameled hot pads also help keep the heat at the
desired point, making the torch work more effectively.
When using a star drill, hold it with a combination plier-wrench.

FIG. 18 - Use ceramic or enameled heat pads This absorbs some of the shock, reducing sting and fatigue in
to prevent heat damage.
your hand.
Star Drill Propane Torch
Solder Hammer
Chalk Line Steel Square
Hacksaw Paintbrush
Steel Wool Soldering Iron
Hot Pads Nails
Steel Tape Friction Tape
Sandpaper Paint Roller
Paint Stirrer Paper Plates
Magnet
in this document.

Here are tips and suggestions to help you do a better job when using common fasteners like screws and
nails. Although there is nothing complex about a nail or a screw, many are misused.
Selecting the Proper Nail and Using it Correctly

Selecting the Correct Screw and Using it Properly
SELECTING THE PROPER NAIL AND USING IT

CORRECTLY
FIG. 1 - Common nails
Although there are many different types of nails and brads, four
types will handle most fastening jobs.
The common nail is most widely used (Fig. 1). It has a flat head
and is used where the appearance of the nail head is not
objectionable.
The length of a nail is identified by its "penny" size. In the early

days of nail manufacturing, this term designated the weight of
FIG. 2 - Casing nails nails per hundred. Today it designates only the length and size of
the nail.
The designation 2d, 3d, 4d, etc., identifies a 2-penny, 3-penny, 4-

penny nail, etc.
The casing nail is used primarily on cabinet work or interior trim

(Fig. 2). Casing nails are slightly heavier than finish nails.
FIG. 3 - Finishing nails The heads of casing nails are normally countersunk and covered
with putty or wood filler.
Finishing nails have rounded heads that can be driven flush with
the surfHCI of the wood (Fig. 3). Although they are often
countersunk like casing nails, they can be used without
countersinking.
Common brads are designated by length only (Fig. 4).
Brads are recommended for light assembly work where the head
should be concealed. They are thinner, shorter, and smaller than
FIG. 4 - Common brads finish nails.
Use the nail selection chart for selecting the proper nail or brad
for various thicknesses of wood (Fig. 5). The chart shows the
recommended type and size of nail or brad for woods of various
thicknesses.
FIG. 5
FIG. 6 - As a rule of thumb, the nail should Nail Selection Chart
always be about three times as long as the
thickness of wood through which it is driven.
Plywood Thickness Type of Nail Size
casing 6d
3/4"
finishing 6d
5/8" finishing 6d - 8d
FIG. 7 - How to countersink a nail.
brads 3/4" - 1"
1/4" finishing 3d
lath 1"
You may want to make some variations from the chart, but it can
be a practical guide in nail selection.
Here is a rule of thumb to remember: The nail should always be

about three times as long as the thickness of the wood through
FIG. 8 - Nailing tips: (A) nails can be concealed which it is driven (Fig. 6). Nails are normally driven through a
in a piece of wood; (B) bend nails over at the end thinner piece of wood and into a thicker one. This allows 2/3 of
for a strong joint; (C) never drive two nails in the
same grain of wood; (D) an upright can be toe-
the nail to provide holding power in the thick piece of wood.
nailed to a flat surfHCI.
To help you pick the right length of nail, hold the nail up against
the thin piece through which it is to be driven. Then select a nail
approximately three times this thickness (Fig. 6).
Fig. 7 illustrates how to countersink a nail. First, select either a

casing or finish nail and drive it into the wood, leaving the nail
head slightly above the surfHCI.
Select a nail set with a head the same size as the head of the nail
and drive the head of the nail slightly below the surfHCI with the
nail set.
FIG. 9 - Special nail for holding wallboard.

Remove the nail set and fill the recessed area with wood putty or
wood filler.
Let the putty dry, then sand it flush with the surfHCI of the wood.
You can conceal nails in a piece of wood by taking a wood chisel

and digging a slight hole into the wood in the direction of the
grain (A, Fig. 8).
Drive a finish or casing nail into the hole and replHCI the
chipped-out wood with wood cement. If done properly, this will
provide a strong holding power and the nail will be completely
FIG. 10 - Special fasteners: (A) nail for holding hidden (Fig. 8).
wood to concrete; (B) ring nail for special holding
power; (C) corrugated fasteners for corners; (D) Bend nails over at the end when attaching two pieces of wood
upholstery nails for fastening material to wood. where appearance is not important. Bending the nail over
increases the strength of the joint (B, Fig. 8).
Use care when driving nails near the end of a plank. Never drive
two nails in the same grain of the wood near the end. Always
move over to another grain of wood for inserting the second nail
(C, Fig. 8).
When you must nail an upright piece of wood to a flat surfHCI,

toe-nailing with casing or finish nails will do the job. Drive the
nails completely in to provide a strong holding power with a neat
appearance (D, Fig. 8).
A special type of nail is available for wallboard (Fig. 9). This

type of nail practically eliminates the popping problem.
The rings around the body of the nail give it an extra-strong

holding power. The dish-shaped head can be driven flush with
the surfHCI of the wallboard to provide a neat appearance.
Fig. 10 illustrates various types of fasteners that are helpful for

specific fastening jobs.
A special nail is available for holding wood to concrete (A).

With a little patience and practice, the concrete nail can be
driven into concrete or masonry.
A ring nail provides a strong holding power for special nailing

jobs (B). The annular rings around the nail have sharp ridges that
lock into the wood, making it practically impossible for the nail
to slip.
Ordinary corrugated fasteners are used for fastening corners or

where one piece of wood butts against another (C).
Upholstery nails are designed for fastening materials to wood on

both flat and curved surfHCIs (D). They can be used to cover
unsightly tacks.
SELECTING THE CORRECT SCREW AND USING IT

PROPERLY
Fig. 11 illustrates the six types of common screws. These screws

can be divided into two basic types: slot-head screws and Phillips-
head screws.
FIG. 11 - Common types of screws Both types of screws are available with flat, round and oval heads.
Fig. 12 illustrates how these three different types of common heads

look when driven into the wood.
The oval-head screw extends above the surfHCI in a slight oval.

The round-head screw protrudes above the surfHCI in a half-circle.
The flat-head screw is flush with the surfHCI.
Two basic types of screwdrivers are needed for driving the

FIG. 12 - Three common screw heads
different types of screws (Fig. 13). The regular slotted screw has a
slot in the head, while the Phillips-head screw has a cross slot.
Always use the proper screwdriver for the screw you are using.
Use the screw selection chart for selecting the correct size and
length of screw for any job (Fig. 14). This chart is designed for flat-
head screws but can be used for any type.
FIG. 14
FIG. 13 - Two types of screw head slots
Screw Selection Chart
Flat-Head Screws
Plywood Thickness
Screw Length Pilot Hole
3/4" #8 1-1/2" 5/32"
5/8" #8 1-1/4" 5/32"
1/2" #6 1-1/4" 1/8"
FIG. 16 - How to join two pices of wood with
screws: (A) Pilot hole; smaller in diameter than 3/8" #6 1" 1/8"
screw body; (B) Screw shank hole; larger in
diameter than screw shank; (C) Countersunk hole; 1/4" #4 3/4" 7/64"
as deep as the screw head or deeper.
The column on the right shows the size of the pilot hole to be
drilled for starting the screw.
The chart in Fig. 15 gives the relative size of the head and shank of
screw sizes ranging from #2 to #16. This will help you select the
proper size screw quickly and easily.
FIG. 17 - Use dowel plugs to conceal screw

heads.
FIG. 15 - Select the right screw for the job.
FIG. 18 - Screw washers

Fig. 16 shows how to join two pieces of wood with screws. Of
course, some of these steps are not always necessary, but under
normal conditions you'll get a neat bond with excellent holding
power.
First, make a mark where you plan to insert the screws. Carefully
position the two pieces that are to be attached. Securely hold the
two pieces together and drill a pilot hole through the top piece into
the second piece (A, Fig. 16). The pilot hole should be slightly
smaller in diameter and as long as the screw. A piece of tape on the
bit will help judge the depth of the hole.
Using the pilot hole as a guide, drill a hole slightly larger than the
screw shank through the top piece (B, Fig. 16).
Use a countersink to drill for countersinking oval or flathead

screws (C, Fig. 16).
Insert the proper screw. Tighten the screw for a neat and strong
bond of the wood.
You can make this job easier and the results better if you clamp the
two pieces of wood together while you work. If you do not have
clamps, drill, countersink and tighten one screw first. This will act
as a clamp. Then do the remaining screws.
Use a dowel plug if you want to completely conceal the head of the
screw (Fig. 17).
Cut the holes for the dowel plugs with an ordinary countersink.
Simply drill a bit deeper with the countersink than you would for a
regular countersunk screw.
After drilling the hole for the plug, cut a piece of dowel of the
proper size to make the plug.
When the plug is inserted and glued into plHCI, it can be sanded
flush with the wood or rounded off.
FIG. 19 - Screw tips
Screw washers are available for flat-head, round-head or oval-head
screws (Fig. 18).
Use ratchet or offset screwdrivers to insert screws in inaccessible

areas. These screwdrivers make it easier to reach such areas (Fig.
19).
Drill a hole and insert a dowel to keep the end of a piece of wood
from splitting when screws are inserted. This provides a different
run of the grain in the wood and makes splitting unlikely.
Sometimes it is necessary to counterbore a thick piece of wood

when it is to be attached to another thick piece of wood.
Screws Slotted Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver Brads
Hand Drill Wood Chisel
Ratchet Screwdriver Dowel Plugs

Folding Rule Nails
Hammer Countersink
Brad Puncher Nail Set
Awl Offset Screwdriver
Screw Washers Quality Wood Glue
in this document.

Follow these tips and instructions on how to select and install hinges. They can help you save time and
effort and help you end up with a more satisfactory job. Inside this document you will find information
about:
Right-hand and Left-hand Hinges

Installing Hinges
Selecting the Correct Hinges for the Job
RIGHT-HAND AND LEFT-HAND HINGES
Most hinges are reversible, allowing either end to be mounted in

an upright position.
However, some hinges are made specifically for either a right- or

left-hand door. These cannot be reversed, so you must select the
proper hinge. The question is, how do you know which hinge to
use?
Let's suppose the hinge is a loose-pin hinge (Fig. 3). In this case,
the hinge must be mounted so that the pin can be removed from the
top. Most hinges can have the handing reversed. There are only a
few hinges that cannot have the handing changed. To reverse the
handing, remove the pin and the plug, turn the hinge over but still
assembled and replHCI the pin in the top and the plug in the
FIG. 1 - You must select the right type of hinges.
bottom. The handing is then reversed.
In Fig. 1, the doors are mounted on the same side, but one door
opens in while the other door opens out. Even when mounted on
the same side, the door that opens in takes a left-hand hinge while
the door that opens out takes a right-hand reverse hinge.
In Fig. 2 both doors are mounted on opposite sides, but the door
that opens in requires a right-hand hinge while the door that opens
out requires a left-hand reverse hinge.
The outside of a door is the corridor side of an interior door and

the outside of an exterior door.
Stand on the outside of the door. If the door opens into the room to
your right, it requires a right-hand hinge. If it opens into the room
and to your left, it requires a left-hand hinge.
FIG. 2 - On opposite sides, the doors require
Be sure to determine which type of hinges you need before
different hinges.
beginning the installation.
INSTALLING HINGES
Generally speaking, hinges are either surfHCI-mounted or recessed

(mortised). SurfHCI-mounted hinges, as the name implies, are
mounted on the surfHCI of the pieces being hinged. Recessed
hinges require the removal of wood to allow the hinge to be
mortised into the wood. Some hinges are a combination of hinge
types. One leaf is surfHCI-mounted while othe other is mortised or
recessed.
FIG. 3 - Butt and loose-pin hinges are the most
Regardless of the type of hinge you are using, accurate
common types used.
measurements are a must. Measure all dimensions carefully. If
there is any doubt, remeasure.
Equally important are clearances. Allow for proper clearances

between surfHCIs, such as the door or lids and frames. These
clearances prevent dragging, binding or a sloppy fit.
Measurements and clearances make very little difference if you do
not follow through with accurate cutting and drilling. Use the
proper tools and techniques for cutting out recesses. Be sure any
holes that are drilled are accurately centered.
Two of the most common recessed hinges are the butt hinge (full
mortise, Fig. 3) and the piano hinge. The process of installing all
recessed hinges is basically the same.
FIG. 4 - Use a combination square, butt gauge
or butt marker to lay out the area to be cut out for First, determine where the hinges are to be located. For example, a
recessed hinges. door hinge is usually 5" from the top and 10" from the bottom of a
door. If you are replacing a door, plHCI the hinges so you can use
the recesses already on the frame, if possible. Or use the same
measurements as found on any other nearby doors.
If you are doing a single pair of hinges, a combination square

works well for making the necessary layout. If you have more to
do, a butt marker or gauge helps simplify the process (Fig. 4). A
different-sized butt marker is needed for the different-sized hinges.
They are not adjustable.
A hinge is generally recessed by the thickness of the hinge leaf. A

butt marker has a depth gauge built into the handle. Just run it
along the edge of the door or jamb and it makes a cut mark at the
proper depth. The combination square or butt gauge must be
adjusted to the proper thickness. Then run them along the edge as
with the marker. You can use a pencil, but a penknife or scratch
awl gives a much sharper line to follow (Fig. 5).
FIG. 5 - PlHCI the depth gauge on the butt
marker against the fHCI of the door or jamb to
The length of the recess is determined by the size of the hinge you
mark the thickness of the hinge.
are using. A 3" butt hinge requires a 3" recess. A 36" piano hinge
requires a 36" recess. The easiest way to mark the length is to
plHCI the hinge on the edge of the door in its proper location.
Then mark its length with a pencil, penknife or scratch awl (Fig.
6). Both the length and the width of a hinge are marked when a
butt marker is plHCId against the door or jamb and struck with a
hammer.
The width of the recess is also determined by the size of the hinge.
A hinge is generally recessed back far enough so the cutouts in the
hinge for the knuckles are flush with the door or jamb surfHCI
(Fig. 7).
Once these measurements have been transferred to the door, you

FIG. 6 - Mark the length on the edge of the door are ready to cut the recess. Use a chisel and a wood, plastic or
with a pencil, knife or awl. rubber mallet to score the marked area (Fig. 8). Be sure the chisel
is sharp and is the correct size.
Next, make shallow cuts as deep as the hinge leaf is thick and
about 1/4" apart in the marked area. Tap the chisel lightly for better
control of the cuts.
Remove the wood you have cut away. A sharp chisel will make
this job go much faster, easier and a lot safer. After you have made
the recess to the proper depth and smoothed it with the chisel, you
are ready to mount the hinge.
FIG. 7 - The knuckle cut-outs on the hinge Check the alignment of the hinge in the recess. It must be straight
should be flush with the surfHCI of the door. in order for the hinge to work properly. It must also be recessed
deep enough to allow it to work. If it is too deep, the hinge may
pull loose when it is closed.
Put the hinge in plHCI and trHCI the holes in the hinge onto the
wood. Remove the hinge. Use a center punch to mark the center of
each hole. Using a drill slightly smaller than the body of the screw
you will be using, drill the holes. ReplHCI the hinge and install the
screws. Tighten each screw a little at a time until all the screws are
completely tightened (Fig. 9).
If the hinge you are using can be taken apart, take it apart prior to
assembly. ReplHCI the hinge pin once you are finished. On a door,
replHCI the top pin first. It will help hold the door in plHCI as you
replHCI the lower hinge pins.
FIG. 8 - Making the shallow cuts reduces the

chances for splitting and makes the wood removal
much easier.
SELECTING THE CORRECT HINGES
FOR THE JOB
Common butt hinges are most widely used for mounting ordinary
doors. Butt hinges are available in both rigid (fixed-pin) and loose-
pin types. The pin cannot be removed from the rigid or fixed-pin
butt hinge while the pin can easily be tapped out of the loose-pin
type with a screwdriver.
The primary advantage of the loose-pin hinge is that it enables you

to remove the door for any purpose without unscrewing the hinges.
The loose-joint butt hinge allows you to remove the door by

simply lifting it high enough to make one section of the hinge clear
the pin on the other section. If the door will be removed frequently,
you should probably use the loose-joint hinge.
The rising-butt hinge is designed for use where shag carpeting or

any other type of thick floor covering might interfere with the
opening of the door.
FIG. 9 - The holes for mounting the hinges must
be marked and drilled accurately. The rising-butt hinge allows the door to rise slightly to clear the
carpeting when it is opened.
The knuckle hinge is primarily a decorative hinge. It carries a

considerable amount of weight and is designed so that only the
knuckle of the hinge shows when the door is closed. It is a loose-
joint hinge. You may prefer this decorative style for some door
mountings.
The butt hinge is primarily used for light doors. This hinge
conceals every part of the hinge except the barrel.
The ball-bearing hinge is a bit more expensive, but you may find it
desirable for certain heavy-duty door mountings.
The ball-bearing hinge is permanently lubricated and is primarily

designed for use on heavy exterior doors. It can be used, however,
on any door that might get unusually heavy use.
The double-acting hinge is used mostly on cafe doors. The double-

acting hinge permits the door to open in either direction.
Use the pivot hinge for overlay doors, recessed doors or flush
doors.
You can purchase the gravity pilot hinge with or without a hold-
open stop.
The offset blind hinge is used almost exclusively on screen or

storm doors. The design permits a swing-away of the storm or
screen door without interference from the hinges.
The spring-loaded hinge has a built-in spring mechanism that

closes the door after it's opened. Some spring-loaded hinges have
adjustable tension features that permit you to tighten or loosen the
hinge as you would an ordinary door closer.
The back flap hinge is a version of the butt hinge, but is somewhat
smaller. It is primarily a furniture-type hinge and is not widely
used on general construction.
Use the tabletop hinge for any construction where one leaf in a
section of wood needs to be dropped, somewhat like a tabletop.
FIG. 10 - Types of hinges.
Use ornamental hinges on cabinetwork and some types of furniture.
The rustic semi-concealed hinge is available in many colors and

designs. The semi-concealed feature of the hinge gives the exposed
portion a neat appearance.
The H and HL hinges are also rustic-type hinges used on light

cabinetwork where appearance is extremely important. Be sure to
match all other cabinet hardware to the same appearance and
design as the H or HL hinges.
Strap hinges, T hinges and continuous hinges are special types of

hinges used only on certain projects.
Strap and T hinges are available in many sizes. They are used
primarily for heavy, rough-type installations.
The continuous hinge is also called a piano hinge. It is used

primarily on lids of chests, cabinets and similar plHCIs.
Continuous hinges are available in many sizes and finishes.
Hinges Screwdriver
Folding Rule Hammer
Hand Saw Mallet
Screws (Proper Size) Hand Drill
Wood Chisel Saber Saw
Sandpaper Butt Gauge/Marker
Combination Square Center Punch
Level
in this document.
Ask for Other "Show-How " Instruction Sheets

of materials. Come in and ask for "Show-How " instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!
Read these tips and suggestions on how to secure your home to help reduce the chances of a break-in.
The steps are quite simple but can provide peHCI of mind, additional security and perhaps save you
from theft.
Some General Safety Precautions

Installing Lights for Protection
Simple Non-Electric Security Devices
Electrical and Battery-Operated Security Devices
Improving Security with Locks
SOME GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
There is no absolute way to protect your home from break-ins.

Locks and other safety devices serve primarily to prevent entry
by the amateur thief and to slow or deter the professional.
Another deterrent is to avoid regular routines that make it

obvious you are away from home at specific times of the day or
night. This may be unavoidable, but try to vary your routines of
departure and arrival when possible.
Never chat with a stranger about leaving your home for a

vacation, a visit, etc. You never know who may be watching for
an opportunity for a break-in.
Alert your local police if you are leaving for an extended period.
Stop the delivery of newspapers, mail and other items that could
be telltale signs that you are away from home.
Arrange for someone to mow your lawn in the summer or

remove snow from your drive in the winter when it's necessary
for the family to be away. This gives the appearance that
someone is at home. Such precautions could be well worth the
cost.
Work out an arrangement with your neighbors for mutual

alertness when anyone in the neighborhood will be away.
Use any other precautions to make it appear that someone is at

home at all times.
INSTALLING LIGHTS FOR PROTECTION
Good lighting is one of the greatest deterrents to crime. You can

mount floodlights or spotlights on the corner of your house to
flood the walls in all directions (Fig. 1). Such lights are
inexpensive, relatively easy to mount and highly effective in
reducing break-ins.
Spotlights can be either single or double, although the double

spotlight is recommended. Always mount the light high enough
FIG. 1 - Spotlights mounted in a corner can light so it cannot be unscrewed easily by a burglar.
two walls of your home.
Floodlights mounted high on the end of a house provide a great
amount of light for a wide area (Fig. 2). Floodlights can be either
single or double, although double is strongly recommended.
Lights mounted on either the corner or end of the house should

be set in such a way that they illuminate dark areas behind
rosebushes, screens, walls, trees, etc.
Mount spotlights or floodlights in any spots around the house

that could provide a hiding plHCI for burglars or prowlers.
In most cases you can wire spotlights or floodlights directly into

the wiring system of your home (Fig. 3). Wiring for floodlights
can be tapped into the nearest outlet box.
Before tapping into any line or circuit in the house, be sure to

disconnect the power. To do this you will need to trip the circuit
breaker or remove the fuse serving that circuit. For extra
protection, cut off the current at the main switch while working
on the wires.
First, remove the plate over the outlet box. Attach the black wire
to the black wire, the white wire to the white wire and the ground
FIG. 2 - Floodlights mounted high on an end of wire to the ground, as illustrated in Fig. 3.
your house provide light for a wide area.
If solderless connectors are code approved in your area, use them
to make your electrical connections. They are much faster and
easier to use.
The wiring from the outlet box to the floodlight can be extended
as far as necessary. As a rule, #14-3 wiring is adequate for
lighting installations. You should check your local code for the
requirements in your area. Some areas still require #12-3. The
three conductors will allow you to ground any circuits that might
be exposed to the weather. Securely attach the new wiring run
FIG. 3 - After turning off the current, you can over the entire distance from the outlet box to the location where
wire a floodlight into your home's wiring system. it is mounted.
Use a junction box at the plHCI where the spotlight is to be

mounted (Fig. 4). Simply mount the junction box, pull the wire
through the hole in the junction box and mount the spotlight to
the box.
You can mount floodlights at all corners and eaves of your home
with little effort. If you are in an area with a high break-in rate,
consider installing as many floodlights as possible. This lighting
can be much cheaper than losses in a theft.
Use plug-in timers to turn the spotlights on or off when you are
away (Fig. 5). Timers can be used for activating and turning off
FIG. 4 - Use a junction box wherever a spotlight lights in any rooms of the house.
is to be mounted or where an extended run is to
be made. When you use timers, do not set them for the same time. For
example, light in one room might be set to come on for a short
interval at about 2 a.m., while another light in another room
might be set to kick on and off at a totally different time. Such
variations in timing simulate a more natural lighting use to an
outside observer.
Install automatic timers in the main power line to spotlights

mounted around the house. These timers can be set to activate
the lights at any frequency or interval desired. You should have a
qualified electrician wire these into your system.
Don't overlook the security value of good lighting. It is one of

the least expensive and most effective ways to reduce break-ins.
Warning: ReplHCI burned-out bulbs immediately! The whole
lighting system becomes ineffective if burned-out bulbs are not
quickly replHCId.
FIG. 5 - A simple plug-in timer can activate

indoor and outdoor lights.
SIMPLE NON-ELECTRIC SECURITY DEVICES
To help protect against window break-ins, you can use a steel

bolt or rod (Fig. 6).
First, drill a 1/2" or 3/4" hole completely through the lower sash,
raise the window 3" to 4" and drill through the lower window
sash hole into the upper sash. Attach a steel bolt or rod to the
window casing with a long wood screw and a short length of
chain.
With this arrangement, you can raise the window slightly for air
at night without the danger of someone opening it completely
while you are asleep. The bolt prevents someone from raising the
window rapidly against the bolt, breaking the window frame and
FIG. 6 - A simple steel pin provides ventilation gaining entry. Caution: Don't use a wooden dowel. They may
and security. shrink in warm weather and expand in wet, causing them to
loosen, fall out or weaken. Use only a steel bolt or rod.
This simple device provides a lot of security against break-ins at

practically no cost while allowing in air at night.
Use a piece of 2x4 with felt or sponge glued on one end and a
metal T screwed to the other end to provide protection from
forced entry through a hall door (Fig. 7).
Saw the 2x4 to the required length to reach from the closed door
to the wall in the hallway. The felt on one end prevents the 2x4
from damaging the wall while the metal T on the other end
prevents it from slipping out from under the door.
Although this bar is obviously unsightly, use it during the night

or when you are away from home and can leave the house
through some other exit. It is simple but extremely effective.
When this bar is in plHCI, the door simply cannot be opened
without a complete break-in.
This same device can also work where there is a wall across
from the doorway. Simply cut the 2x4 ends at 45-degree angles
FIG. 7 - A piece of 2x4 provides protection from to fit across to a corner wall. Install a regular doorstop at this
forced entry at night. point along the wall to prevent the 2x4 from slipping. This gives
additional security (Fig. 8).
Sliding glass doors offer an inviting entryway for burglars. Use a

simple piece of 1x2 or a steel rod in the entryway (Fig. 9).
When in plHCI, the piece of wood or steel makes it impossible

for the sliding glass door to be opened. Since there is a danger
that a steel rod might accidentally break the glass, a 1x2 strip of
wood is recommended.
You can use aluminum rods with crutch tips for a similar type of
protection for wood sliding doors.
The aluminum rod makes it impossible for the sliding doors to be

FIG. 8 - A 2x4 cut at right angles to the wall and opened until the rod is removed. Screw 1" round head screws
door provides protection where the door is not into the edge of each door to provide holding power to prevent
directly opposite a wall. the aluminum rod from slipping out of plHCI.
One-way viewers allow you to observe any caller before you

open the door (Fig. 10). Various types of one-way viewers are
available.
Invest in a top-quality viewer. The basic difference between

viewers is the range of view they provide. Low-cost viewers
have a limited range while better-quality viewers provide clearer
and wider ranges of vision.
One-way viewers are easy to install. Simply drill a hole of the

proper size, insert the viewer and tighten it.
FIG. 9 - A piece of 1x2 wood, a steel rod or an
aluminum rod covered with crutch tips will provide
protection from forced entry on sliding patio doors.
FIG. 10 - One-way viewers allow you to observe
the caller before opening the door.
ELECTRICAL AND BATTERY-OPERATED SECURITY

DEVICES
Various types of battery-operated door alarms are now available

and can be installed on any ordinary door (Fig. 11).
Battery-operated door alarms operate on one single principle:

When the door is opened or forced, the alarm goes off. The noise
will awaken you and may scare off the burglar.
If you install a battery-operated door alarm, get a good-quality

one that will work for a long period of time. Keep strong
batteries in the alarm so it will function properly. A dead battery
FIG. 11 - Battery-operated door alarms and totally disconnects the system.
locks can be installed on any ordinary door.
Ultrasonic alarm devices are also available. They can be quite
expensive but are highly effective.
The ultrasonic alarm system is set up in one corner of the room.

The system contains a solid-state transmitter-receiver that
saturates the area with ultrasonic sound waves.
The sound waves bounce off walls in all directions. If the sound
waves are broken, the system can turn on the light, sound an
alarm or both.
Battery-operated ultrasonic alarm systems are available. Most of

these alarm systems operate by plugging them into an electrical
outlet.
Wireless intercom units provide a means to hear noise from key

points around the house. These systems usually require no
wiringthey are plugged into an electrical outlet.
Wireless intercom sets allow you to communicate between

various rooms in the house and also make it possible for you to
listen to noises in locations throughout your home.
Various intercom units are available. Some are wireless while

others require a wiring system.
IMPROVING SECURITY WITH LOCKS
A typical lock offers little protection against break-ins. A

professional burglar can usually enter the house with no more
than a plastic credit card or a thin screwdriver.
Cylinder deadlocks provide a great deal of extra protection when

used as a supplement to the regular locks in your home (Fig. 12).
A tubular deadlock adds protection without an unsightly

appearance. Double tubular deadlocks can be installed in any
FIG. 12 - A cylinder deadlock adds extra door.
protection to the door lock.
Double tubular deadlocks generally require a key to open the
door from either side. This could present a problem exiting the
house in an emergency. But some tubular deadlocks can be
opened without a key from the inside (Fig. 13).
SurfHCI-mounted cylinder deadlocks are easy to mount on any

door (Fig. 14).
The deadlock in Fig. 14 has a bolt in the lock that come down
through the holes in the strike. This offers far more protection
against jimmying than an ordinary surfHCI-mounted cylinder
deadlock.
FIG. 13 - The double tubular deadlock provides The basic disadvantage of surfHCI-mounted deadlocks is their
protection without an unsightly appearance. unsightly appearance, but designs are available in decorator
styling.
Examine the locks in your home carefully. If they are old, worn
or fail to give the needed protection, install new or
supplementary locks immediately. It is well worth your time and
effort.
FIG. 14 - This surfHCI-mounted cylinder

deadlock is easy to mount.
Spotlight Bulbs Electrical Wire
Automatic Timer One-Way Viewer
Rubber Cement Battery-Operated Door Alarm
Folding Rule Crutch Tips
Stepladder Handsaw
Short Pieces of 1x2 Spotlights
Outlet Box Power Drill
Plug-In Timer Screwdriver
Hand Drill Wireless Intercom System
Felt or Rubber Sheeting Steel Rod
Junction Box
in this document.

As a parent, from almost the moment your first child is born,
you begin to worry about his/her health and safety.
Worry though you will, the only truth about childhood safety
that you have to remember is that ACCIDENTS DO HAPPEN.
The normal, active, physically healthy child will occasionally
have some cuts and bruises.
The key is to keep your child from serious and preventable

accidents and injuries. You don't want your child to become
part of the national statistics on childhood injuries.
The National Center for Health Statistics says that children under 14 are seven times more likely to die
from an accidental injury than a homicide. However, many parents have the misconception that violent
acts (things over which they have no control) such as kidnappings, shootings and drugs pose greater
dangers to their children than injuries, according to polls. Nonetheless, injuries are the number one killer
and disabler of children.
Today there are things parents can do to control the impact of many injuries. One out of every four
children suffers a preventable injury that requires medical attention. There are things that can be done to
prevent these kinds of serious injuries.
It is for that reason that this document has been written. It is meant to be a primer, not an all-inclusive
manual on childhood safety. Use this document as a starting point, perhaps obtaining more information
from other resources on the subjects in which you are most interested.
PREVENTING INJURIES INSIDE THE HOME
Childproofing your home should begin prior to your child learning to

crawl because once he/she becomes mobile, you are fHCId with an ever-
increasing, intensely curious whirlwind of activity. Inspect your home
while you have the time to do it thoroughly.
Childproofing does not mean moving breakables to higher shelves. It

means locking, securing, relocating or removing anything that may pose a
potential danger to a child. Young children are very tactile and oral;
consequently, any new object or substance must not only be touched but
mouthed to be fully explored.
Use the following checklist as a starting point for childproofing your

home.
In the kitchen and bathroom
Install "child-resistant" locks on all cabinets within the child's

reach. Remember, what is child resistant to most children may not
be to yours, so don't assume that with the locks in plHCI your child
is safe.
Remove all cleaning fluids and agents from lower storage areas.
Remember that very common household items that are generally

considered non-poisonous, if taken in large quantity, can kill a 22-
pound child. Some of these things include mouthwash, cosmetics,
meat tenderizers and spices.
Keep all medications, including topical ointments such as insect

repellents, inside a cabinet that is locked with a key. And plHCI
the key where the child cannot reach it.
Many child care experts recommend clearing out a lower kitchen

cabinet and placing in it toys, plastic storage containers or other
safe items for the child to play with when he/she wants to be with
mom or dad in the kitchen. Also, having a cabinet of his/her own
may end some of the need to explore other cabinets in the kitchen.
Keep all electrical and phone cords bundled and out of reach.
When cooking, turn pot handles to the back of the stove.
Do not use tablecloths.
Install toilet lid locks.
Never leave a small child alone in the bathtub for even "just a
second."
In other areas of your home
Install covers over all electrical outlets.
Install smoke alarms on all levels of your home.
PlHCI gates at stairwaystop and bottom.
Lift blind and drapery cords out of the reach of children.
Use specially designed door stops and knobs that prevent children
from opening forbidden doors.
Turn down your water heater thermostat to between 120 degrees

and 125 degrees to prevent scalding young skin.
Many houseplants are toxic. Find out which ones are and, if you
have any of them, remove them from your home.
Make the garage off limits. But just in case, be sure any potentially
dangerous items are stored out of reach and/or locked up.
Remove firearms from your home. If you must have them, keep
the ammunition locked in a strongbox stored away from the gun.
Remove or keep tightly closed 4- to 6-gallon buckets or pails; a

child can fall into this size bucket and drown in just a few inches
of water.
In addition
PlHCI the number of the nearest poison control center near your
phone. Include with it your child's weight, allergies and any special
medical conditions so you won't have to remember these when in a
panic. It will also be available there for a babysitter or visiting
relative.
Have a bottle of ipecac available to induce vomiting if something

poisonous is ingested. However, NEVER give the syrup without
first consulting with your poison control center or health care
provider. They will give you the correct dosage.
Have a first aid kit and know what to do with its contents.
Remember, childproofing is not a 100 percent guarantee that your child

will be safe from injury. It is not a babysitter. Parents must still be vigilant.
At best, childproofing slows down the curious young child.
In Case of Poisoning
If you suspect a case of poisoning, take these three steps right away:
1) Look for signs of poisoning.
Dizziness
Drowsiness
Odor on breath
Open bottle or spilled contents
Vomiting, nausea or pain in abdomen
Difficult or shallow breathing
Hyperactivity, irritability
2) Check to see if victim is breathing.
If not, call ambulance or police immediately.

Loosen clothing at neck or throat.
Perform mouth-to-mouth resuscitation.
3) Take these first aid actions immediately.
Call poison center, emergency room or doctor.

Cover victim with blanketloosen tight clothing.
Clear airway.
Do not give food, drink, alcohol or drugs.
Save and give doctor the poisonous substance as well as
container and label.
PREVENTING INJURIES OUTSIDE THE HOME
It seems that children injure themselves more outdoors than indoors. And
parents sometimes mistakenly assume this happens because there is very
little they can do to control the outdoor environment. However, there are
things that can be done, especially around swing sets, play yards and
swimming pools.
First and foremost, however, ALWAYS use a child safety restraint seat
when riding in the car. Automobile accidents are the number one killer of
children. There is no excuse for not using one. Today, most states require
the use of safety restraint seats. The cutoff age varies from state to state.
Next review these checklists for suggestions around your home and
beyond.
In the backyard
Remove plants that are poisonous. (Check with your local poison
control center to find out which ones are poisonous).
Remove plants that attract bees.
Fencing should be free of sharp or jagged edges, splinters,

protruding nails and peeling paint.
Fill holes in the ground that might cause a child to trip and fall.
Fix or replHCI decaying steps and deck boards.
Always put away fertilizers, gardening tools, pesticides, lawn

mowers and other potentially harmful yard tools and equipment.
Remove peeling paint from outbuildings and/or your house

exterior. (See Lead & Your Family's Health, another "Show-How"
document in this series, for information about lead-based paints).
In the play area

Don't use toxic pesticides or other chemical garden products in the
play area.
Be careful when using a power lawn mower, which can sometimes

hurl rocks. Keep children away.
Be sure the play area is well-drained.
Check with your local building code agency for safety

specifications when building a play structure.
Built or purchased play equipment should meet the following basic

safety requirements:
Angles or openings must be large enough not to entrap a child's

head or body accidentally.
Sharp points, edges, corners or protrusions can be hazardous.
All screws and bolts should be securely capped.
Use closed O-rings, not open S-hooks, on swings (or pinch S-

hooks closed).
Swing seats should be made from a light, soft material, such as

rubber or canvas, that won't injure if the seat hits a child.
Swing ropes must be strong enough to support your own weight.
Periodically check equipment after installation for loose hardware,

posts and other framework.
A layer of wood chips, sand or pea gravel should be spread 6' out
from all sides of all structures to prevent injuries from falls. The
depth varies according to the material usedwood chips and pea
gravel, 3" deep with 6" under swings; sand, 12". Build a low wall
around the area to contain the cushioning material.
In the pool area
Drowning can happen in a matter of minutes and it doesn't matter if you

have an in-ground pool or small, child-sized wading pool. Some basic
rules are:
Children may not enter the pool area without an adult who can
swim.
No running, pushing or rough play is allowed in the pool area.
No glass or electrical appliances are allowed in the pool area.
Store chemicals and equipment away from children.
Have a first aid kit near the pool.
Keep a buoyant life ring on a rope as well as a rescue crook near

the pool for pulling the person to the pool's side.
Put a sturdy cover, strong enough to carry an adult's weight, over

the pool. Locking covers are the most secure.
Local ordinances usually specify the type and height of fencing

around your pool. Any gates should be self-latching with locks
positioned beyond a child's reach.
A pool alarm is a handy device that will alert you if a child falls in
the pool.
Have a poolside telephone to prevent that quick dash to the house

to answer the phone "for just a minute."
Invest in swimming lessons for all members of the family.

Knowing how to swim is the best defense against drowning.
Take a lifesaving course.
PREVENTING INJURIES AWAY FROM HOME
Going to and from school, visiting friends, participating in school

activities and a myriad of other things will take your child further away
from your care as he/she gets older.
A bicycle is one way children from approximately age 7 and older get
around. Here are a few basic bicycle safety tips:
Always wear a helmet.
Never ride wearing headphones.
Never ride at night.
Obey all traffic signals and signs.
In general, you and the other adult members of your household should
learn CPR and be trained in basic first aid techniques. Keep a first aid
book on hand for reference.
For More Information
National SAFE KIDS Campaign, 111 Michigan Ave. N.W., Washington,

DC, 20010.
Local Poison Control Center
National Crime Prevention Institute, University of LouisvilleShelby

Campus, Burnhaus Hall, Room 134, (502) 588-6987.
National Safety Council, 444 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL, 60611, (312)
527-4800.
Local library for reference books and other local resources.
Local hardware stores, home centers or bookstores for books such as

Sunset's Children's Play Yards, which contain information on outdoor
safety.
Away from Home
As children become older and are away from home more, they increase
their chances of meeting adults who may want to harm them. Children
have a natural trust in other people. The challenge of parenting is to
teach your children to add a little caution in their lives without scaring
them to the point of paranoia.
The National Crime Prevention Council recommends that you teach your
children to:
Use the telephone properly in case of emergencies. Practice

making emergency phone calls with them.
Memorize their name, address and phone number (including area
code) and your work number.
Walk confidently and stay alert to what's going on around them.
Walk and play with friends, not alone.
Refuse rides or gifts from someone they don't know well.
Tell a trusted adult immediately if anyone, even a teacher or
close relative, touches them in a way that makes them feel
uncomfortable.
Emergency Telephone Numbers

Poison Control Center:
Doctor:
Hospital:
Ambulance:
Police:
Specifics on each childweight, allergies, medications
Possible Safety Projects

Additional Tools and Materials
Child-Resistant Cabinet Toilet Lid Locks
Child-Resistant Doorknobs Stairway Gates
Locking Storage Cabinets Screwdrivers
Shovel Wheelbarrow
O-rings Soft Swing Seats
Wood Chips Pea Gravel
Buoyant Life Ring Smoke Alarms
Gate Locks Keyed Locks
Electrical Outlet Covers Doorstops
Locking Metal Boxes Electric Drill
Hammer Paint Scrappers
Fill Dirt Pliers
Screw and Bolt Caps Sand
First Aid Kit Pool Alarm
Self-Latching Gate Latches Cordless Phone

in this document.

Making your home secure isn't a matter of buying certain productsit's an overall strategy that combines
locking the house tightly, eliminating the ways that intruders can conceal themselves on your property,
and giving the appearance that you are home, whether you are or not.
Intruders aren't the only

problem. Your home security
strategy should also involve
preventing accidents on your
property. Many of the same
things you do to protect your
property from intruders are the
same things you do to prevent
accidents and to make your
home more convenient and
comfortable.
Home security systems used to

be wired in during new
construction, and retrofitting a
system was an expensive job
that could only be done by FIG. 1 - Critical security areas in your house.
professionals. Today,
combination home automation/home security systems are available that are so easy to install that they
hardly qualify as do-it-yourself projects. This brochure describes the procedures involved in setting up
such a system as part of an overall home security strategy.
The most important aspect of any security system is balanceit does no good to make your windows
burglarproof when your doors can be opened more easily with a pry bar than with a key. Before you
invest in an automated system, first take stock of the simple, everyday security measures that should
already be in plHCI.
SECURING DOORS
Every entry and utility door in the house should be a solid

dooreither stile-and-rail construction or a solid-core flush door.
As a rule, doors that swing into the house are more secure than
outswinging doors, both because the gap between the door and
jamb is not exposed and because the hinge pins are on the inside.
If you have an outswinging door, make sure it has at least one

nonremovable pin hinge. You can tell by opening the door and
looking at the hinge pins. A nonremovable pin hinge has a set
screw in the pin that prevents the pin from being removed.
All entry doors should also be fitted with deadbolts (Fig. 2).
There are two common types of deadboltssingle cylinder and
double cylinder. Single-cylinder deadbolts are operated with a
FIG. 2 - A double-cylinder deadbolt (top) is key from the outside and a turn button inside. Double-cylinder
operated with a key from both sides; a single- deadbolts must be operated with a key from both sides.
cylinder deadbolt (bottom) has a key on the
outside and a turn button inside.
Sliding patio doors (Fig. 3) are notoriously easy to break into.
One of the first things a burglar looks for is a door that is loosely
fitted and wiggles a little, and sliding doors can't be built to be
totally tight.
Modern patio doors often have a three-point locking system that

throws a hardened bolt up into the head jamb and down into the
sill to supplement the hook-type lock at the handle. If you have
an older patio door, one inexpensive alternative is a hinged bar
mounted on either the active door panel or the jamb that swings
down to wedge the door closed (Fig. 3).
SECURING WINDOWS
The general rule of thumb is that all sliding windows (both

horizontal sliders and single- or double-hung) are more difficult
to secure than swinging casement or awning windows. Most
modern swinging windows have cam locks that draw the sash
tightly into the frame.
FIG. 3 - Sliding patio doors are one of the most
vulnerable points in the house. They can be Obviously you want to make sure all window locks operate
secured inexpensively with a hinged bar that holds properly, but you can add to the security of sliding windows by
the operating panel shut. installing key locks in plHCI of the standard sash locks (Fig. 4).
FIG. 4 - Sash locks are an inexpensive way to

improve the security of double-hung windows.
LIGHTING
Outdoor lighting (Fig. 5) is one of the best deterrents availableas

well as an important safety feature. Low-voltage lighting kits can
be installed in an afternoon, while adding to the appearance of
your home. Most operate from a transformer that can be plugged
into any standard electrical outlet, so no wiring is required. With
the development of more reliable solar cells and batteries, solar
outdoor lighting is now more dependable and even easier to
install than the low voltage lighting systems. On most of these
types of lights, you mount them, allow them to charge up and
then turn them on. The only problem associated with many of
them is placing them in the wrong location so they don't get
FIG. 5 - Low-voltage lighting is easy to install enough light.
and adds to the appearance of your home.
Make sure, too, that the entire area around your house can be
well lighted. Install floodlights over the driveway and at the back
of the house; if you can position lights so every door and
window in the house is covered, you can scare away nearly any
burglar.
Once you have the basics taken care of, then a home security
system may be a worthwhile investment. Modern systems
operate from your existing wiring. They allow you to operate
incandescent lights and appliances remotely, whether they are
plugged into an outlet or wired to a wall switch.
The system consists of the following components:
The controller sends signals to each remote module individually

or to all modules at once. Wireless controllers are also available.
Plug-in modules are plugged into standard electrical outlets.

Then the device is plugged into the module (Fig. 6). The lamp
module is designed for low-amperage use and includes a dimmer
function. The appliance module is designed for heavier amperage
use such as televisions, coffee makers and other small appliances.
FIG. 6 - A lamp module simply plugs into the
existing outlet. The lamp is plugged into it, and A wall-switch module replHCIs the standard wall switch and
can be controlled remotely. allows the system to control any incandescent light wired into
the home's electrical system. Modules are available for both
single-pole and three-way switches.
A motion detector can be programmed to turn on any lamp

plugged into a base module.
A motion-detector-controlled floodlight can be programmed to

varying degrees of sensitivity and to turn off again a specified
amount of time after it comes on (Fig. 7).
Setting up the system depends somewhat on your individual

needs, although there are some basic guidelines you may want to
follow. As a rule, the best way to deter burglars when you're
away is to make them think you're home. If your system allows
you to control eight modules, for example, consider the
following locations:
A front porch light or floodlights over the garage door. These

lights should be set to go on in the evening at dusk and off again
FIG. 7 - A motion-detector-controlled floodlight around 10 p.m.
can be set to varying sensitivity, so it ignores stray
cats but comes on when visitors--or burglars-- A main living room light. This light should be programmed to go
enter the driveway. on in the early morning, say from 7 a.m. to 8 a.m., then off and
on again at 6 p.m. until about 10 p.m.
A television. Your TV can be programmed to go on and off at

varying times during the day and evening; from outside, it can
sound like people conversing in the house.
A kitchen light. It should be set to go on and off again around

common mealtimes.
Bedroom lights. The lights in at least two bedrooms could be

programmed to come on in the morning, then off around 8 a.m.,
then on again in the evening.
A stereo or radio. Set the radio to a talk station and program it to

go on and off at varying times.
A bathroom light. Program it to go on, then off after 10 minutes

or so, four or five times per day.
A back porch light or floodlights. Program these to be on

whenever it is dark, until bedtime.
To install modules in electrical outlets, simply plug the module

into the outlet, then plug the lamp or appliance into the module.
To install wall-switch modules, you'll need to replHCI the

existing switch (Fig. 8). First, double-check the light by turning
it on. Then turn off the power to that circuit, and tape over the
breaker switch or fuse socket to prevent anyone from
accidentally turning the power back on while you're working.
Try the switch again to make sure the circuit is dead.
Remove the switch-plate cover, then unscrew the two screws that
hold the switch in the electrical box. Carefully pull the old
switch out of the box and check the terminals with an electrical
tester to confirm that the circuit is dead.
Unscrew the switch terminals and remove the old switch. Attach
the wires to the switch module, taking care to match the wires to
the same terminals. Carefully push the wires back into the box,
then screw the wall-switch module to the box. ReplHCI the
cover plate, then turn on the circuit. Test the light to make sure it
works properly.
FIG. 8 - When replacing a wall switch, first turn off the circuit at the main
breaker box. Double-check by operating the switch. Then remove the cover
plate, unscrew the switch from the electrical box, and carefully pull the
switch out of the box. Triple-check the power by touching the ends of an
electrical tester to the switch terminals. If the power is off, unhook the old
switch and replHCI it with the wall-switch module. Then push the switch
back into the box, screw it in plHCI, and replHCI the cover plate. From the
Sunset book, Basic Home Wiring Illustrated, Sunset Publishing
Corporation.
Security System Controller Lamp Modules
Outlet/Appliance Modules Motion Detector
Floodlight/Motion Detector Combination Electrical Tester
Screwdriver
in this document.

More and more people are working from their homes, both as self-employed small business people and as employees.
There are a lot of advantages to working at homeincluding the fact that the dress code is generally more casualbut
there are also a number of important things you'll need to consider before setting up a home office. The most basic
consideration is local zoning ordinances. If your home business consists of no more than a desk and a computer in a
back bedroom, chances are no one will even know you're operating. But if, for example, your office is open to the
public (say you're a chiropractor or a notary public) or you keep inventory on site, then your business affects your
neighbors and is likely to be regulated.
No matter what your business, always check with your local zoning board to find out where you stand before investing
a lot of time and money in your office. In this document you will find information about:
Basic Considerations
Home Office Facilities
BASIC CONSIDERATIONS
Once you've determined that you'll be working at home, the next step is to find
some office spHCI. Professional office designers do it like this: first add up the
sizes of all the furniture, equipment, and storage you'll need, then design the
spHCI around it. Unfortunately, you'll probably be limited to a few choices, so
you'll have to make them work no matter what size they are.
Keep in mind that privacyor a lack of it can make or break a home business. Don't
underestimate your needs. If you are constantly being interrupted by family
members because you are accessible, it'll be hard to give your work the necessary
concentration. If you have children, you probably know how futile it is to expect
them to be quiet, too. Privacy is one of the most important considerations in
choosing office spHCI in your home.
A second important consideration may be access. If clients will come to your

office, you'll need to have an office that is accessible without walking through the
FIG. 1 - Common architectural symbols used to entire houseor you'll have to clean up every time you expect a client. If you can't
draw a floor plan. find office spHCI where there is a door nearby, you may want to consider adding
a room.
If accessibility is not a major issue, there are a lot of spHCIs in the average home
that can be turned into office spHCI. You may be able to divide your office into
two or more spHCIs. For example, you may have a niche under a stairway you
can use for a desk and a phone only. But just behind that niche might be a closet
into which you can put a file cabinet, copy machine, and office books and
supplies. It's not as handy as having everything at your fingertips, but it may work.
Here are some more ideas on finding spHCI for an office.
Adding SpHCIBuilding a room for an office is not really "finding" spHCIit's

"making" spHCI. The advantage is you can design the size and layout you want.
FIG. 2 - A parallel layout is a good design for The disadvantage is its cost. You're probably looking for a way to have a home
someone who regularly sees clients. The "client" office within your existing building. But don't overlook the obvious but more
portion of the office is separated from the work expensive route of adding on. Possibly the room you add on as an office can
area, while file cabinets and shelves are close at become a bedroom or family room if you sell your house. You may get all your
hand. investment back, if the new room is appropriate, and have a nice office spHCI all
the years you used it.
Guest BedroomTaking a wall or two from a room that might be used 10 or 12

nights of the year for guests is not unreasonable. You can build bookcases and/or
other office storage up and around the bed. Or get a Murphy bed which folds up
into the wall. Then the few nights the room is used for guests, push your office
stuff away, and drop the bed down.
Maybe you can buy a hide-a-bed type couch for another room in the house for
infrequent guests, and make that guest bedroom into a full-time office.
BasementIf you have a basement, this may be where you'll find the most
available spHCI. There may be some disadvantages, such as client accessibility, a
lack of natural light, or dampness. But the advantage of abundant spHCI might
FIG. 3 - An L-shaped layout is a good design for outweigh all the disadvantages.
someone who spends most of their time working
at the computer. A temporary layout table can be AtticThe disadvantage of taking over the attic is that there may be no insulation,
set up in the center of the room when needed. heat, electricity, air conditioning, etc. The advantage is that an attic can be a large,
quiet spHCIand also bright and cheerful, if you install skylights or roof windows.
Attached GarageThe layout here is often favorable, especially if your business

involves having clients in. A garage will have easy and private access. It has quite
a bit of room and can be finished off fairly easily. The big spHCI left by the
overhead door is a wonderful opportunity to design in some nice windows and/or
door into your office. A big disadvantage is you lose your garage. Of course, if
your home business does well, you can build a bigger one next year.
HallwayHallways with niches or extra spHCI are opportunities for small office
spHCIs, although they may be just enough to get by.
ClosetsClosets are usually in short supply, so taking one over for an office spHCI
may not be a popular idea in your household. But possibly the closet contents can
FIG. 4 - A straight line layout trades storage and be moved to a basement area, attic area, or someplHCI that is good enough for
convenience for the ability to fit a conference table storage but not good enough for office spHCI.
into the room.
Sharing SpHCIA wall or two in the family room, living room, a bedroom, or
some other room may be appropriate. Possibly some office functions can be in
one spHCI and others in a second or third spHCI.
Many of these spHCIs depend on how much privacy you need to work, but be
imaginative as you look over all the possibilities. There may be more office
spHCI possibilities in your house than you think.
ElectricityDon't underestimate the amount of electrical power you'll need in your

office. Your needs will depend on how much electrical equipment you'll be using,
of course, but chances are you'll want a 20-amp circuit. Preferably, that circuit
should be dedicated to your office alone, so you won't have to worry about
someone in the house turning on a hair dryer or toaster at the same time you're
making copies and printing documents.
HOME OFFICE FACILITIES
Have a licensed electrician look over your system if your electrical needs will be
significantespecially if you think you may need a circuit dedicated to your office.
There are a number of technical issues that have to be resolved, and you don't
want to overload your electrical system.
TelephoneWiring a telephone jack is not difficult. Many homes built after the '70s
were wired with two-line capability, even though you may have only one number.
To check, remove the cover plate from one of your wall jacks. If you see four
wires (usually red, green, yellow, and black), you have two-line capability. All
FIG. 5 - A computer desk with a built-in printer
you need to do is call the phone company and ask for a second number.
stand provides excellent storage and stability for
your computer and peripherals.
If you use a fax machineand most of the businesses you'll deal with will expect
you to have oneyou may want a third line. You can buy a combination phone/fax,
but you won't be able to receive voice and fax calls simultaneously.
Heating/AC/VentilationYou'll have to be comfortable in your office to work

efficiently. Fans and portable heaters can transform an undesirable spHCI into a
good one, but keep in mind that electric heat draws a lot of power, and may affect
electrical service to the area.
LightingProper lighting is one of the most important elements of any office. Light
is measured in lumens, and visually demanding tasks require at least 2,500 lumens
in the room.
You'll want to pay attention to two kinds of lighting. Ambient lighting covers the
FIG. 6 - A Ballans chair is designed to ease entire area, while task lighting is directed to a specific area. How much you'll need
stress on your back by keeping your weight on depends on the task, but generally, the more visually demanding the task, the
your knees. more lighting you'll need.
You'll also need to decide whether you want incandescent or fluorescent lighting
in the office. Fluorescent light is more energy efficient than incandescent light,
and the bulbs last longer. Fluorescent fixtures are also non-directional, so they
tend to flood the area more evenly. Incandescent light, on the other hand, is
warmer, and can be directed and controlled more easily.
The following table lists the output in lumens of various size incandescent and
fluorescent light bulbs:
Incandescent Light:
Watts Lumens
60 870
75 1,190
100 1,750
FIG. 7 - Standard file cabinets (top) take up less
wall spHCI than lateral file cabinets (below), but 50/100/150 580/1,670/2,250
require more clear spHCI in front in order to open
them fully. Fluorescent Light:
Watts Lumens
20 820
40 2,150
Once you've determined where your office will be, the next step is planning the
layout to make the most efficient use of spHCI. Measure the spHCI and draw a
scale sketch on a piece of graph paper. Write in all dimensions, including the
locations of electrical switches and outlets, heating ducts, any plumbing fixtures,
doors, windows, etc.
If you use graph paper with a heavier line every four squares, you can make each
square equal 3", so the heavier lines represent one foot.
Next, make cutouts of your office equipment and furniture to scale. Standard sizes
of office furniture are listed below.
Lay out the room until it's roughly the way you want it, then double check your
layout. Use props such as your kitchen chairs and a card table or boxes to see if
there's enough room behind chairs when pulled out, or whether you'll have access
to the copier.
If you use a computer, you'll want to plHCI it so the screen doesn't fHCI a
window, to avoid glare. Also, make sure an electrical outlet is nearby, and that
your plHCIment puts the printer and other peripherals close enough to be plugged
into the CPU.
It's better to make changes noweven to the point of finding a new spHCIthan after
your office furniture is bought and is all in plHCI.
DeskYour desk is the heart of your workspHCI. Be sure it's big enough to
accommodate your needsone thing you'll find is that no matter how much work
spHCI you have, you could always use more. If your budget is limited, you can
create a good-sized desk by setting a flush interior door on a couple of two-drawer
file cabinets. Typical sizes of desks are:
Office desk: 30" deep, 60" long, 29" high
Secretary's desk: 30" deep, 48" long, 29" high, with L-shaped wing 20" wide, 42"
long, 27" high
Credenza: 20" deep, 60" long, 29" high
2/6 flush door: 30" deep, 80" long
Computer DeskIf you use a computer, definitely consider a dedicated computer

desk or computer table. Most computers can't take much shaking, and computer
tables are specially designed for stability. Also, the height of a computer table can
be adjusted; if you spend a lot of time at the keyboard, you'll need it to be lower
than standard desk height. They are commonly 30" deep and 48" or 60" long.
Computer desks often include a built-in, adjustable keyboard shelf, a monitor

stand, a printer stand, and storage designed for diskettes and software manuals.
Like computer tables, they are built for stability. A computer hutch is typically
about 28" deep and 54" long. An L-shaped computer workstation typically
consists of a desk about 28" deep and 50" long, with a wing about 12" deep and
42" long (Fig. 5).
The standard rule of thumb is that your computer monitor should be a full arm's
length away from your fHCI to avoid eye strain and to keep you away from the
radiation emitted by color monitors. Make sure your computer desk or table is
deep enough to allow you to work without being nose-to-nose with your monitor.
ChairIf you spend a fair amount of time sitting at your desk, by all means treat
yourself to a comfortable chair. A couple hundred dollars may seem like a lot, but
when you figure how much time you spend in the chair, it's pennies per hour. If
you aren't comfortable, your work will suffer.
If you have back problems (or don't want to have them), you may want to consider
a Ballans chair (Fig. 6). A Ballans chair is designed to keep most of the weight on
your knees, while keeping your back straight.
File CabinetsYou can never have too much storage spHCI, so plan for plenty of
file cabinets (Fig. 7). Vertical file cabinets are available in two-, three-, or four-
drawer configurations. Two-drawer cabinets are the same height as a standard
desk, so you can use them to extend your workspHCI. Lateral file cabinets save
depth, but take up more wall spHCI.
Consider using legal-size file cabinets even if you don't work with legal
documents. Many envelopes, magazines, and presentation materials are slightly
longer than 11", and they won't fit easily in a letter-size file cabinet. Typical file
cabinet sizes are: Letter-size: 15" wide, 18" or 26" deep
Legal-size: 18-1/4" wide, 22" or 26" deep
Lateral: 36" wide, 19" deep
CopierA copier can be plHCId on its own stand, or sit on a desktop or file
cabinet. If you do any desktop publishing, consider a model that allows you to
enlarge and reduce in 1% increments. You can also buy a copier with a "photo"
mode that will provide excellent copy quality on artwork. If you only make an
occasional copy for your records, you may be able to get by temporarily with a
fax machine that has a copy mode.
StorageYou'll almost certainly need bookshelves and other storage spHCI. If

you're using a bedroom as an office, you can easily convert the closet into storage
by removing the existing shelf and closet rod, then filling the spHCI with shelves.
Steel Tape Measure Graph Paper
Pencil Architect's Scale
Straightedge Heavy Paper
Scissors
Check your state and local codes before starting any project. Follow all safety precautions. Information in this document
has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors. Every effort has
been made to ensure accuracy and safety. Neither NRHA, any contributor nor the retailer can be held responsible for
damages or injuries resulting from the use of the information in this document.

Additional easy-to-use instruction sheets for home do-it-yourself projects are available from your local supplier of materials.
Come in and ask for "Show-How" instructions when you get ready for that next handyman project!
It was once something the zealous, health conscious, everythingnatural believers did.
But now it's something even mainstream America might be doing. It's called composting.
An ever-increasing number of local governments are banning the disposal of yard wastesgrass clipping
and leavesin landfills. Most localities have forbidden leaf burning for years. So where are the grass
clippings and leaves to go?
Into your compost heap, of course.
Whether you begin composting out of necessity or a sincere desire to improve the environment, it is
extremely easy to do.
YOUR BACKYARD COMPOST PILE
Composting is considered by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency to

be a part of recycling. It reduces the amount of trash generated. It can be
reused in your yard and it recycles nutrients back into the soil and plant
FIG. 1 life.
Composting experts will argue the merits of an open-air system versus a

closed-air system, the merits of layering the compost material versus
mixing it together, or even whether to turn the pile.
But if all you are interested in is getting rid of your yard waste, you can
rest assured that there is very little that can go wrong with composting.
Whether you choose an open or closed system, carefully layer the

materials or mix the ingredients. Let it sit or turn every few days and it
will become compost within a certain period of time.
Where to Locate
The ideal location for your compost pile is under a tree. The partial shade
will keep the pile from drying out too fast. However, it should not be a tree
that is highly acidic such as pine, black walnut, juniper, eucalyptus or
FIG. 2
cypress.
A location near the kitchen is helpful, but more important is a location that
has good drainage. It also is useful to have an area near the pile to store
materials that will be added to the pile later.
To Contain or Not Contain

The simplest and least expensive way to begin composting is to start a
compost heap. The pile should be at least 6' x 6' and about 5' to 6' high in
the middle. Anything smaller will maintain low temperatures and will take
FIG. 3 longer to decompose. As the pile deteriorates, it will tend to sprawl and
shrink. Compost heaps can be untidy and displeasing to look at, especially
in urban areas. Compost heaps are what sometimes give composting its
bad reputation.
Containers keep the compost materials neat and tidy. They can be
inexpensively built from discarded shipping pallets, fencing or chicken
wire or leftover treated lumber from another building project.
Four shipping pallets tied together with rope, wire or chain with an
optional fifth pallet at the bottom for increased air circulation will make an
adequate container for your composting materials.
FIG. 4
A wire bin can be made by tying together 2"x4"x36" wire fencing into a
hoop shape.
An elaborate three-bin system can be built from purchased materials. With

the three-bin system, each bin is approximately 36" square and shares a
common lid and internal sides. In a three-bin composting system, one bin
is the active compost pile, one is left empty to make turning easier, and the
third is used as a holding bin for materials to be composted.
Composting can also be done in a plastic trash can which has had the
bottom cut off and 24 to 48 holes drilled into the sides to increase air flow.
Many different types of composting bins are also available for purchase.
There are wooden open-air bins, plastic open-air bins, plastic closed-air
bins and rotating drums. The rotating drums are the most expensive but are
convenient because they make turning the compost easy.
Other Tools of the Trade

FIG. 5 Accessory tools for composting could include a long-handled pitch fork
for easy turning, a special aerating tool to keep the pile aerated and a
compost thermometer, which has a long probe to accurately determine the
internal temperature of the pile.
THE COMPOST RECIPE
Like any good recipe, the compost recipe is subject to variation by the
cook. The more greens/nitrogen (fresh grass clippings, food scraps) in the
pile, the "hotter" the mixture and the faster it will decompose. The brown
ingredients (dry leaves, dry grass, wood shavings) add carbon to the
mixture and help keep the pile cool.
An ideal mixture would be 50% greens and 50% brown, but this can vary
from one-quarter to one-half green and one-half tp three-quarters brown.
Other items that can be added to the pile to help the "brew" but are not
necessary include:
garden soil (1/2 shovelful)

finished compost (1/2 shovelful)
bonemeal (1/2 shovelful)
bloodmeal (1/2 shovelful)
fireplace ashes (shovelfuls)
crushed fertilizer rock dust (shovelfuls)
compost starter (see manufacturer directions)
Your Yard Waste
Just about any of the yard waste that you would bag up and set out on the
curb for the trash haulers to carry away can be used in your compost heap.
Here are a few pointers to keep in mind:
Wet grass clipping should be mixed thoroughly to prevent odors.
Any woody material larger than 1/4" in diameter should be cut and
bruised to provide more surface area for it to break down.
Weeds must go into a "hot" pile (140 degrees to 150 degrees) to

destroy the seeds.
To keep more consistent weeds, such as Bermuda grass, from

coming back after the compost is harvested, place them in a black
plastic bag in direct sunlight for several weeks, then chop them up
and place them in the compost bin.
Plants infected with insect eggs should not be added because even
a "hot" pile may not kill the eggs and the insects could re-infest
your yard when the compost is harvested.
Highly acidic or poisonous plants should be added in very small

quantities or nor at all.
Ivy and succulent plants should be chopped or shredded before

adding to the compost pile because they may regrow when the
compost is harvested or may even begin growing in the compost
pile.
Other Ingredients
Food wastes such as vegetable and fruit scraps, breads, pastas,

coffee grounds, egg shells, and tea bags are all acceptable nitrogen
sources for your compost bin.
Do not put meats or fats in your compost pile. These food wastes
will attract animals and rodents to your bin.
Manures from cows, horses, chickens and any non-meat eating

animals are excellent nitrogen sources for starting the
decomposition process.
Paper towels, toilet paper tubes and other shredded paper products
can also be added to your compost bin.
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS
Some people have concerns about compost heaps fearing they will attract
insects, rodents and other pests as well as produce undesirable odors. Most
of these worries are unfounded, especially with a properly maintained pile.
A good, healthy pile should present no problems. As a general rule of

thumb, if it smells like soil, then everything is working like it should.
Odors in your compost bin are usually caused by too many greens
or a proper amount of greens not adequately stirred into the
mixture. If odor problems start, try mixing in more brown
materials such as dried leaves, straw, compost or garden soil.
Flies should not be attracted to your compost pile if food scraps

are buried 6" to 12" in the center of the pile. Just dumping food
waste on the top of the pile is what causes flies to seek out your
compost bin.
Rodents should not be attracted to your compost pile if you do not

add meats or fatty foods. Should rodents become a problem, try
turning the pile and purchasing rodent repellent at your hardware
store or home center.
Moisture, too much or not enough, can also be a problem. If it is

too wet, the pile will rot rather than decompose. If it is too dry,
nothing will happen. A cover will help keep it from getting too wet
during rainy seasons. A garden hose can be used to add any
necessary moisture. The pile should have the wetness of a
squeezed-out sponge.
Cold, winter weather will slow down the decomposition process.

Make the pile larger and/or cover it, and it will maintain its heat
and do a slow simmer during the colder months.
Long-handled pitch fork Wire staples
Compost aerating tool Power stapler
Compost thermometer Nails
Compost starter Nuts and bolts
2"x4"x36'"wire fencing Hardware cloth
Trash can Zinc-plated hinges
Pre-made compost bin Corner and T-braces
Treated lumber Hand or circular saw
Rope or chain Drill and drill bits hammer
Bone meal Tin snips
Leaf blower/vac Tape measure
Chipper/shredder Safety glasses
Lawn cart Screwdriver
MORE INFORMATION
There are a number of books that have been written on composting. In addition, most state and county extension
agencies can provide information on composting and other recycling questions. State environmental agencies
may also have literature on the subject.
Just remember there is very little you can do wrong with composting. The only question is how involved you
want to get with the process.

DIY Home Project

Transféré par

Informations du document

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

DIY Home Project

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

Planning and Designing Your Bathroom

Planning Your Kitchen

Correcting Common Paint Problems

Framing and Hanging Doors

Installing Ceiling Fans

Building Storage Areas

Tips for Making Home Repairs

Probably the greatest challenge in remodeling a bathroom is figuring out

Layout. Think about the layout in your existing bathroom and

Are towel racks and tissue holders located conveniently? Is there

Mechanical systems. From the plumber's point of view, the best

Electrical outlets and switches are usually easier to move than

If your current layout is livable, leaving the mechanical systems

Don't neglect lighting when you redesign your bathroom. You'll

Maintenance. Think about the maintenance problems you have

Energy and water conservation. Your hot water heater is one

the width and length of your floor cabinets and bathtub;

the locations of all electrical outlets, switches and fixtures.

As you make your sketch, use an architect's scale to precisely locate

Self-rimming sinks have a molded lip that rests on the

FIG. 4 - A vanity sink base (left) has false

Unrimmed sinks are recessed below the surfHCI of the

LAYOUTMinimum clearances vary by local building codes, so you'll

An L-shaped bathroom (Fig. 6) usually has the vanity/sink and

A corridor bathroom (Fig. 7) typically has the bathtub along one

A U-shaped bathroom has fixtures on three walls; it generally

DOING TRIM AND FINISH WORK

Measure your bathroom and draw a sketch to scale; if you plan

Contact your building department to confirm minimum

Gather style ideas and make notes.

Determine the major fixtures you want in your new bathroom.

Work out a layout that meets local clearance requirements, fits

Determine colors, finish materials, lighting, storage details and

Draw a floorplan of your proposed bathroom. You may want to

Get a building permit if you need one.

Prepare a materials list and have it priced by your supplier or

Arrange your financing if necessary. Interview and select a

Draw up a general outline of construction procedures, then list

PlHCI special orders in advance so they will be available when

Arrange for a building inspector to check the job whenever

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Graph Paper Tracing Paper

Masking Tape Pencils and Eraser

Architect's Scale Steel Tape Measure

Ask for Other "Show-How" Instruction Sheets

CONSIDER HOW YOU USE YOUR KITCHEN

Do two or more cooks typically work at the same time? If so,

Do you entertain frequentlyand do you typically have formal or

What other activities commonly occur in the kitchen? Some

Do you have any special needs? Is a user exceptionally short or

This, obviously, is not a complete list of the general considerations in

THINK ABOUT THE FEATURES YOU WANT

Do you need an island (and have room for it), a peninsula or a

Would you fill a pantry?

Would you rather have a stainless steel sink or enameled cast

Do you use a microwave for major cooking or just to heat up

Do you prefer cooking with gas or electricity?

Do you want a combination oven-and-range or a cooktop with a

Do you use enough small appliances that you could use an

Is the wall you want to move a load-bearing wall? Load-bearing

THE CLEANUP CENTER around the sink should have at

THE STORAGE CENTER around the refrigerator needs 15"

THE MIXING/PREPARATION CENTER should be handy

If spHCI permits, some designers also include a serving centeranother