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h e F utur
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or a l
By C
An Investigation into why
future innovation is changing the purpose of
Lingerie
I
Abstract
The lingerie industry is worth billions but for it to stay that way it most evolve
and revolutionize into a multi purpose garment. The days of it being aesthetically
pleasing to the eye and boosting confidence are leading way to the joining of two
unlikely sectors which if done correctly will make history. During this investigation
the lingerie market and key drivers will be discussed in depth leading up to the new
technology found through looking at brands different case studies. From looking
at student designers in India to the swiss, lingerie will be something marketed at a
diverse range of people. The lingerie market will be looked at in depth along with
case studies of new up and coming technologies being used with in Lingerie. The
future of lingerie will be technology and concept focused with Generation Z the key
consumers who will demand innovation. Its not clear what the actual future of the
lingerie market is but it is clear that it will become something its never been before, a
garment with multi purposes.
II
A culture of innovation can be a
companys primary source of
competitive advantage, and can
pay off steadily over the years
Stephen Shapiro in 24/7 Innovation
III
Contents
Research Question - I
Abstract - II
List of Tables - V
Glossary of Terms - IV
Lingerie Timeline - IX - X
Hypothesis - XII
Methodology - XIII
Chapter 1
Lingerie Market Research - Page 18
The Lingerie Market - Page 19
Market Statistics - Page 20
Innovative Lingerie Brands - Page 21
Chapter 2
Issues driving new technology - Page 22
Personal Safety - Page 23 - 24
The need for Love - Page 25
Healthy Lifestyle - Page 26 - 27
Chapter 3
Revolutionary Technology - Page 28
Cosmetotextiles - Page 29 - 30
3D printing - Page 31 - 32
Intelligent Clothing - Page 33 - 34
Chapter 4
Functionality changing lingerie - Page 35
The true love bra - Page 37
S.H.E - Page 38
Smart Bras - Page 39
Cancer Bras - Page 40
Medical Pants - Page 41
Chapter 5
Innovate to survive - Page 42
Conclusion - Page 43
Recommendations - Page 44
Chapter 6
Appendices - Page 45 - 53
Referencing - Page 54 - 58
List of tables
Table 1 - Question 5 results from survey 1
Table 2 - Question 9 Results Survey 1
Table 3 - Question 5 results survey 1
Table 4 - Question 1 results survey 1
Table 5 - Questions 2 results survey 1
Table 6 - Question 3 results survey 2
Table 7 - Question 4 reesults survey 2
Table 8 - Question 5 results survey 2
Table 9 - Question 6 results survey 2
IIIV
List of Figures
Figure 1 - Carbon lingerie cat walk
Figure 2 - Lingerie washing line vector
Figure 3 - Lingerie timeline
Figure 4 - Silouhette of girl in lingerie
Figure 5, 6, 7, 8 - Lingerie flats
Figure 9 - Corset Vector
Figure 10 - Statista Graph
Figure 11 - Statista Graph
Figure 12 - Panache Logo
Figure 13 - Victoria Secret
Figure 14 - Skin up
Figure 15 - True love bra
Figure 16 - Cancer bra design
Figure 17 - Medical Pants
V
Glossary of
Terms
COSMETO TEXTILES
the use of cosmetics within textiles
S.H.E
society harnessing equiptment
INTELLIGENT CLOTHING
technology used to create smart clothing
micro encapsulation
is a process where solids, liquids and gasses can be enclosed in micro particles by
formation of thin coatings of wall material around the substance.
Generation z
Also known as post Millennials, the homeland generation
Millennials
a person reaching young adulthood around the year 2000
Generation x & y
X - from the early 1960s to mid 1970s.
Y - generation born in the 1980s and 1990s
IV
Figure 1
VII
Figure 2
Lingerie
Quotes
Past
.
No longer the symbol of
womens oppression, the corset
had become the symbol of
Future
sexual empowerment.
VIII
Lingerie Timeline
Figure 3
From conservative corsets in the 18th century first designed and manufactured by Rosey Ann Caplin to the
less constricting softer textured corsets of the 1970s. The 20th century changed the way we perceived and
used Lingerie forever, from Madonnas coned bras to the lace bodysuits now a days paired with some high
waisted jeans, Lingerie is forever adapting and changing so whats next ?
IX
Lingerie Timeline
1800 The Victorian era of the 18th century had a high demand for
whale boned corsets, the corset was seen as a status.
1917 The start of WW1 led to the need for steel, this left
corsetieres without a fabric to use so they started using plastics
which meant corsets could be used for everyday wear and cause
less discomfort.
1980 The first bra was marketed and the full set of lingerie became very
popular during the period of elegance and lace.
2000 The iconic moment Madonna wore her Jean Paul Gautier coned
corset on stage and brought lingerie into fashion as outerwear.
2014 Style changed from plain silouhettes to bras and pants with
strappings and new necklines such as lace halternecks..
X
Aims and
Objectives
Aim
O B J E C T I V E S
XI
Hypothesis
Figure 6 Figure 8
Figure 5 Figure 7
XII
Methodology
Primary and secondary research are both fundamental for the development of this
dissertation. The primary research will consist of indepth information about
technology and materials that will revolutionize the lingerie market.
Research Question
secondary Research
Information found from online journals, books, papers and articles that are credible
and help the researchers further development with the argument. The data collect-
ed was both qualatative and quantative allowing for a diverse range of research to
be collected.
Primary Research
Through online surveys the researcher gained in sight and development during
the change of the investigation, the first questionaire asked the respondants what
their opinion was of the future of lingerie which gave the researcher in sight to what
consumers have been seeing marketed on the lingerie market. After more focused
indepth research using the key words cosmetotextiles, 3D printing and technology
as second survey was created allowing the researcher to gage the reaction of
consumers with her findings
XIII
Lingerie
Market
Research
18
The lingerie
market
The estimated value for the Lingerie market is over 29 billion dollars with the USA dominating the intimates
market with a staggering 66.3% of the world total.
Figure 9
Lingerie and Intimates is a fast expanding market which to keep on growing has come up with new innova-
tions to keep its new fast paced consumers interested. From the use of cosmetics
The market has evolved from brick and mortar lingerie specialists such as M&S to having a large presence on
eccommerce with brands such as Adore Me which thrives through its social media presence.
The detailing of delicate textures, laces and designs has had more of a presence on the catwalk from the
influence of wearing lingerie as outerwear. The use of wearing a corset or longline bra is less risqu and more
fashion forward as bloggers and celebrities flood social media with see through fabrics and the feminine
details on show.
The lingerie market needs to always adapt to these five key drivers to keep its consumers interested and its
net profit increasing.
19
The lingerie
market
S tat i s t i c s
Figure 10
Figure 11
20
I n n o vat i v e
lingerie Brands
Figure 13
21
Issues
Driving
new
t e c h n o l o gy
22
Person al Safety
Its estimated that 35% of wom-
en have experienced physical or
sexual violence
unwomen.org
2015 had the highest rape statistics over the last 15 years, with
India having more than 34,000 cases. Its predicted that one women is raped or molested
every 2 minutes. In England sexual assault has increased by 41% in the last year with over
85,000 cases reported in 2015.
2016 is predicted to increase by a sizable percent as it did in 2015 now is the time for personal
safety to be at the forefront of brands minds when thinking of expanding their market and
finding a new target of consumers.
Personal safety isnt new but the way its being integrated into other market segments and
evolving into objects and items we can use for multi purposes is what will give brands an edge
they need in the competitive technology world.
On the market there is small rape alarms that can attach to your bra, theres also a safety set-
ting on the ever so popular fitbits. A company has come up with a piece of jewelry that turns
into a GPS tracker and alerts the authorities that the person wearing it is in trouble. So why not
take this knowledge and tech and integrate it into one of the
biggest markets, the million pound lingerie market.
23
Person al Safety
question 5 results
Above is question 5 of a survey talking about Lingerie in the 21st century. You can see that
the majority say lingerie is about fashion, giving body confidence and sports but the minority
have seen the influx of lingerie in medicinal and personal safety. This shows that consumers of
lingerie are seeing the infiltration and integration into different market sectors showing that lin-
gerie isnt just about looks anymore its about changing peoples lives and being multi-purpose.
24
The need for Love
Love in the 21st century is both
the same and different
Maureen Rice, The observer 2003
91 Million people around the world have signed up to dating apps/websites over the last year. The
motion of swiping and picking someone by looks and profiles is how dating in the 21st century is done.
The need for love is at an all time high with applications such as tinder having a net worth
of over $2.4 billion dollars and being the most downloaded app on android and apple.
With mental illness on the rise and being associated with loneliness and the lack of com-
panionship, girls going for the wrong guys and getting hurt the need for something to stop
the heart ache is at an all time high and who better then a Japanese lingerie company.
Ravijou has come up with a solution to stop the guys who are time wasters and if marketed right they
could be in for big money as lets be honest new technology excites customers more then anything.
question 9 results
Above shows that the majority of
people who took the survey agreed
that a lingerie company inventing a
bra to help find true love says some-
thing about our generation and how
wrong the perception with dating is.
25
Healthy Lifestyle
the most health-centric group
of consumers is generation z
Elwood D Watson, Huffington Post, 2015
Healthy living isnt just a choice anymore as was the generation of FAD diets back in the early
21st century.. Its a way of living from the increase of sports wear through fashion to the substan-
tial uprise of healthy eating and eating clean. The need for the perfect sports bra and pants that
dont get uncomfortable when you sweat is showing a demand in the lingerie market.
Victoria secret have sports bras and gym wear but have been looking at how they can put
themselves higher in the sports sector by new technology that works like a fitbit but is worn as
a bra.
The need for healthy living only increases the need for new medicinal garments that help the
wearer not just with comfort but keep their body healthy such as the swiss company schoelller
with their new
revolutionary medicinal pants using cosmetotextiles as a solution.
With Generation Z soon to be the newest target of consumers lingerie brands will have to adapt
to their new health centric, sophisticated, connected and educational generation ever.
26
question 5 results
Above its shown that consumers of lingerie have aslo picked up on the fact that lingerie is seen
in sports, medicinal and health sectors.
Sports - 18.37%
Medicinal - 8.16%
Health - 18.37%
These results show that although medicinal lingerie is being considered its sports wear and
health sector that are dominating the market after fashion and body confidence.
27
R e v o l u t i o n a ry
t e c h n o l o gy
28
Cosmetotextiles
A new revolutionary type of textiles for garments has been Skin up have also found a technology that
slowly lets the wearer know when their pants need
filtering through the lingerie market. as seen in the swimwear/ topping up with the cosmetics by the gradu-
lingerie show interfilerie in 2015. al faded discoloration of the tag. If a lingerie
company could take this technology and
Cosmetotextiles is the integration of micro encapsulation of apply it to the design of the lingerie they
cosmetics with in textiles, the technology of micro encapsula- could create the first colour changing un-
tion has been around for years but only over the last year has derwear. This would be very marketable as
it caught the attention of consumers like to purchase new underwear
lingerie designers. every 3 months for the change of colour
and design.
The technology has already been used in previous garments
such as cellulite minimizing stockings and most recently with a
lingerie company called Lili Piache. They have incorporated the
scents of flowers into their lingerie to create a romantic allure
the idea is to release the scents when the lingerie has friction
on it. The scents used are aromatherapy oils which wont just
enhance the smell but the wearers mood and confidence. After
it was released companies in Japan saw it as a clever use of
new innovative technology and saw great potential with it. Its a
great way to slowly bring the use of Cosmetotextiles into items
that could be sold on the high-street as well as the luxury end.
29
Cosmetotextiles
question 1 survey 1 results
30
3D Printing
3D printing with in the fashion industry is becoming more popular with the couture designers
who want symmetrical shapes. The only problem is the structures of the fabric used in the 3D
printers as its non flexible and uncomfortable to wear on a daily basis.
Victoria secret has seen the niche in the market for 3D printed underwear with the idea of over
10 million pants being printed in a year it would boost their sales and lower their production
time and cost creating a potentially high profit. They have been in talks with a 3D printing com-
pany in Manchester that have come up with a soft breathable fabric that can be used with
the 3D printing process. The company is called Tamicare and the process they use is called
Cosyflex.. the process is different to other 3D printing processes because instead of printing
one un-flexible fabric they print it in layer to build up an object allowing for flexibility with in the
garment produced.
3D printing is cheaper, more reliable and increases the amount of sales the lingerie company
would take as it is produced in a shorter amount of time allowing a higher volume of goods in
production. Its already a new technology that can be used for everything so for a big brand
like Victoria Secret to be looking at using it in their high street stores shows how much potential
3D printing has.
31
3D Printing
question 3 Survey 2 results
32
Intelligent Clothing
IMAGINE IF YOUR COATS, PANTS,
SOCKS, SHOES JUST DID THIS ALL FOR
YOU
Malarie Gokey, 20
People are more interested in their bodies and what they are doing so a technology that incor-
porates both fashion, health and technology is going to do well in a century based on self image
and self worth.
Over the past year Fitbits, apple watches have been the center of attention, the new IT toy for
the technology obsessed generation Z and tech savvy Millennials. Big brands such as Samsung,
Google and OM Signal have boosted the hype of technology with in clothing by the evolution
of the Fitbit watch to being able to read your vital signs through a sensor on placed with in a
sports bra.
Intelligent clothing wont change a persons routine as they will still put on pants, shoes a shirt the
only difference will be the technology with in the clothing will be more advanced and be more
productive and multi purpose. The range of products is highly diverse from smart belts that noti-
fy the wearer of their weight gains to fitness wear that monitors your health and creates a trend
alerting you of health problems, technology is a big driver for the lingerie market and brands
have seen this and started to incorporate it into their designs..
Microsoft have already looked at trialing a bra to help combat eating disorders by alerting the
wearer when they should eat. The idea behind this is to take something ordinary and mundane
and turn it into a tool to combat mental illnesses. The bra itself will not be marketed in lingerie
stores or bra specialists because of the technology and price costs, the market for objects like
this smart bra will be very niche and seen as luxury due to the cost of production the technology
and marketing
33
Intelligent Clothing
Consumers would be over 70% more willing to buy into intelligent clothing then
people that wouldnt, out of all the new technologies talked about in the second
survey the smart bra seems to be the most popular and marketable too the
consumers of lingerie in the 21st century. This only proves that technology is a key
driver that needs to be integrated into lingerie and that the bigger the brand the
more marketable it will be. Lingerie future will be aimed at a very niche market and
the price will reflect this.
34
F u c t i o nali t y
changing
lingerie
35
In a world where technology isnt all new and exciting as it
used to be how can
brands with new innovation capture their consumers attention
again ?
36
T h e t r u e Love b r a
With 91 Million people around the world using
dating applications the idea for a bra that does Figure 15
the same job isnt so far fetched when you think
about how much money would be generated from
it cause of how un educated generation Z and
Millennials are compared to the previous genera-
tions X and Y.
37
Society
Harnessing
Equiptment
Personal safety is an increasingly growing market,
the need for rape alarms small enough to conceal
in bras and applications on phones to send a GPS
signal when someone is in trouble has doubled in
the last few years. Technology has been evolving
the phone and camera market but now its revo-
lutionizing the personal safety market. Mannish
Mohan is a university student from India who has SWO T Analys i s
designed a bra that will help deter rapists.
38
S m a r t B r a s
Intelligent clothing has massive room for growth The big difference between the both smart bras
and brands have shown their interest in integrating are the type of technology used to measure the
technology into the everyday routines of their con- persons body, Smart life used silver conductive
sumers. In 2014 the apple watch was debuted this yarn to detect electrical signals where as OM Sig-
then lead tech engineers to design the Fitbit watch. nal uses sensors implanted with in the fabric.
The company is called Fitbit Inc. and is worth 1.1
billion, Fitbits track your steps, pulse and heartrate Power house Microsoft toyed around with the
to notify their wearer and letting them be more idea of a smart bra that notifies the wearer of
body aware. when they should eat / or have over eaten. The
idea was to help women combat over eating or
OM Signal have taken this technology and seen help them be aware of their eating habits.
how expansive the sports bra market is and come
up with the concept of a sports bra that can do Victoria secrets has already started to collabo-
the same as the Fitbit. The bra helps the wearer rate with OM Signal about creating a marketable
to train the best way to suit their body type by fashion focused smart bra for their sports section
information taken from the sports bra with sensors in their stores The bra is going to be retailed at $75
in. It comes in a range of different fashion colours which is only a price increase of 15-20% compared
and has a starting price of $140. The bra like the to their everyday bras sold. The use of Victoria
true love bra links up to an application that can Secret to market this technology is clever of both
be downloaded on to your phone allowing you to companies as being the first of its kind it will bring
track your progress and keep an eye on your body. new consumers, tech aware customers and widen
their market placement.
Another company called Smart life also saw the
great potential with a smart bra and created their This would be a great threat to other lingerie
own, instead of just being used for sports and brands such as Boux Avenue and Ann Summers
training theirs will alert you when your body is feel- due to the diversity of Victoria Secrets products
ing stressed. The bra is then linked to an application and their ability to change with the times.
on your phone which shows you exercises on
how to reverse the stress the phrase healthy mind
healthy body comes to mind.
39
C a n c e r B r a s
Over 5,000 women in the UK are diagnosed with The product was first designed and marketed for
cancer every year, the fatality rate depends on daughters of women with breast cancer to help
how aggressive the cancer is and when its caught prevent it happening to them also. The fact the
and treated. The typical five year rate is a posi- medicine is taken in through absorbion of the skin
tive 89% but during chemo and other types of rather then orally decreased the risk of traumatic
treatments women find them selves conscious of effects of the drug and allows the wearer to live a
their body and how it demoralizes them and their normal life.
womanhood.
Lingerie and medicine has also been seen with the
lingerie company Panache and their collaboration
Sara Da costa has with sheffield university students. Their concept is
managed to bring more about aesthetics and giving the patient back
together two worlds their body confidence. During radiotherapy the
patient is asked to strip down completely to the
that history waist however Panache have come up with a bra
rarely places side by that can be worn during radiography and that can
side. medicine and improve accuracy.
lingerie Both concepts are very advanced and are a great
Charlotte Sutherland Hawes way for lingerie to progress into medicine and
health.
Sara Da Costa first thought about medicine with in
lingerie during her MA I wanted to explore on my
MA how we could engineer therapeutic properties
into soft surfaces for disease prevention she did
her masters on Material Futures and the concept
of microencapsulation. The bra she has created
a prototype of will encase micro capsules of the
drug known as Tamoxifen into the inside of the bra
allowing the wearer to absorb the drug every time
the bra is worn. Tamoxifen is the best practice drug
for prevention and treatment of breast cancer Figure 16
40
me dical
pa n t s
A company called Schoeller has already seen a
gap in the Lingerie market for medical pants. The
use of both biotechnology and textiles being the
future has been predicted and theyve already got
their hands in the cookie jar as to speak.
42
I n n o vat e t o
S u rv i v e
The aim of this investigation was to find out what
the future of lingerie would become over the next
few years with the key driver being Generation Z
and Technology.
43
R E c o m m e n dat i o n s
For lingerie brands to differ themselves from their competitors they would do well to read
this investigation as it gives them the advantage they need. It explains the different types
of technology out there and the companies that are already looking into innovation.
With the wearable technology sector only increasing in technology and popularity the
lingerie market needs to up its game to keep as competition. The increasing demand for
new technology is innovative but for tech and lingerie to coincide with each other more
research and development must be done to keep it fashionable and lingerie is a very
fashion forward market. With big companies like Victoria secret and Microsoft already
branching out to diversify its products and keep them evolving it puts them at the top of
the market pyramid.
More research and consumer responses will need to be done to help the brand or com-
pany decide what will be a strength for them for example a company like Boux Avenue
would do well to look into cosmetotextiles and the case study of Lili Piache as the technol-
ogy is very marketable and will give them an advantage over other companies like Ann
Summers, it also will go with the whole brand personality. The company could use holidays
like Valentines day to boost their sales and market aromatic underwear as products like
scented sachets that go in underwear draws are really popular.
Another company that could use this research for insight into smart bra's would be sports
specialists like Adidas. If they could use the technology in the OM Signal Bra and market it
with their own designs possibly with matching yoga pants it would be a smart investment
with how popular fitness and technology is to the new generation Z and Millennials.
44
appendix
45
Purpose of lingerie
i n t h e 2 1 s t c e n t u ry
s u rv e y
46
47
48
49
tech within
lingerie
50
51
52
53
bibilio graphy
54
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