5/15/2017 Hair Cosmetics: An Overview

IntJTrichology.2015JanMar7(1):215. PMCID:PMC4387693
doi:10.4103/09747753.153450

HairCosmetics:AnOverview
MariaFernandaReisGavazzoniDias1,2
1
DepartmentofDermatology,FluminenseFederalUniversity,Niteri,Brazil
2
DepartmentofDermatology,AzulayDermatologyInstitute,RiodeJaneiro,Brazil
Addressforcorrespondence:Prof.MariaFernandaReisGavazzoniDias,RuaMarizeBarros176,Sala608Icarai,NiteriCEP,
24220121,RiodeJaneiro,Brazil.Email:mgavazzoni@gmail.com

Copyright:InternationalJournalofTrichology

ThisisanopenaccessarticledistributedunderthetermsoftheCreativeCommonsAttributionNoncommercialShareAlike3.0Unported,
whichpermitsunrestricteduse,distribution,andreproductioninanymedium,providedtheoriginalworkisproperlycited.

Abstract
Haircosmeticsareanimportanttoolthathelpstoincreasepatient'sadhesiontoalopeciaandscalp
treatments.Thisarticlereviewstheformulationsandthemodeofactionofhaircosmetics:Shampoos,
conditioners,hairstraighteningproducts,hairdyesandhennaregardingtheirprescriptionandsafetiness.
Thedermatologist'sknowledgeofhaircareproducts,theiruse,andtheirpossiblesideeffectscanextendto
anunderstandingofcosmeticresourcesandhelpdermatologiststobettertreathairandscalpconditions
accordingtothediversityofhairtypesandethnicity.

Keywords:Hair,haircare,haircosmetics

INTRODUCTION
Althoughdermatologistsareexpertsinmanagingscalpandhairdiseases,theestheticofsomecosmetic
therapiesstillremainelusive.Knowledgeofhaircosmeticsandestheticproceduresaswellasofthehair
shaftstructureandphysicalbehaviorisindeedrelevantintoday'smedicalpractice.[1]Althoughhair
cosmeticsarewidelyavailable,themedicalliteratureisratherscarce,andspecializedliteratureisnot
readilyaccessible.Theaimofthischapteristoallowabetterunderstandingofthehairshaftstructureand
behavior,aswellasinformationaboutthehaircosmetics.Knowingtheirmodeofaction,safetinessand
ingredientswillenablethephysiciantobetterassessdifferentproblemssecondarytocosmetictreatments.
CosmetichaircareproceduresaremostlyusedbyAfricandescendentwomen,whosehairfragilityhas
beenrelatedtobeworsenbyhaircarepractices.AccordingtoMcMichael[2]hairfragilityleadingto
breakagecanoccurduetogeneticpredisposition,weatheringfromvarioushaircarepractices.Hispanic
patientsalsohavecurlyorverycurlyhairthatmayclinicallybehaveassensitiveasAfricanhairwhen
exposedtohaircareprocedures.AlthoughscientificdataislackingtoprovewhetherHispanichairis
reallyassensitive,itiscommontoseeHispanicwomenwithchemicallystraightenedhair,sufferingfrom
hairbreakageandaskingforthedermatologisthelpandadvicetoovercometheproblem.Also,itis
importanttodistinguishhairshedduetotelogeneffluviumfromhairshedduetohairshaftbreakage,
whichisnotalwaysclearfromthepatientpointofview.

HAIR
Hairisanintegratedsystemwithapeculiarchemicalandphysicalbehavior.Itisacomplexstructureof
severalmorphologicalcomponentsthatactasaunit.Thehairshaftofmammalsisdividedintothreemain
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regions:Cuticle,cortexandmedulla.Themedullaispresentincorserhairlikegreyhair,thickhairand
beardhair,anditisabsentinfinehairofchildren.ThereismoremedullainthecoarserhairofAsiansthan
Caucasians.Themedullamaybeinvolvedinthesplittingofhairssinceitprovidesanareaofweaknessas
apathwayforthepropagationofcracksalongtheaxisofthefiber.[3,4]

Thecuticleisachemicallyresistantregionandconsistsofflapoverlappingscales(keratinocytes)like
shinglesontheroof.Theshapeandorientationofthecuticlecellsareresponsibleforthedifferential
frictioneffectinhair.Thecuticleisgenerallyformedby68scalesthickforAsians,slightlylessin
CaucasiansandevenlessinAfricanhair.AthinnercuticlelayermakesAfricanhairmoreproneto
breakage.Eachcuticlecellcontainsathinproteinaceousmembrane,theepicuticle,coveredwithalipid
layerthatincludesthe18methyleicosanoicacid(18MEA)andfreelipids.Beneaththecuticlecells
membranestherearethreelayers,allcontainingheavilycrosslinkedprotein,mostlycystine,theAlayer,
theexocuticleorBlayerandtheendocuticle.Thefirstonecontainsthehigheramountofcystine,andthe
thirdonecontainsthelowest.The18MEAisresponsibleforthehydrophobicityofthehairandits
removalbyalkalinechemicalcosmeticsproceduresmaydamagehairbyincreasinghydrophilia.[5]

Thecellmembranecomplex(CMC)isintercellularmatter.CMCconsistsofcellmembranesandadhesive
material(cement)bindingthecellmembranesbetweentwocuticlecells,twocorticalcellsandcuticle
cortexcells.ThemostimportantlayeroftheCMCiscalledthebetalayer,anditisconsideredtobethe
intercellularcementanditissandwichedbyotherlayersfromeachcell.TheCMCandtheendocuticleare
veryvulnerableregionstothechemicaltreatmentssuchasbleaching,dyeingandhairstraightening/perm
procedures.Also,theeverydaygroomingandshampooingfrictionmaydisrupttheCMC.[3,4,5]

CMCfracturesmaybeseenbeforethehairfiberisruptured.Theexposuretorepeatedroughwashing,
unprotecteddrying,frictionactions,sunlightandalkalinechemicaltreatmentsleadtoadecreaseinthe
lipidcontentofthecellsurfacechangingitfromthestateofhydrophobicitytoamorehydrophilic,
negativelychargedsurface.[3,4,5,6]

Thecortexconstitutesthemajorpartofthemassofthehumanhair,anditisformedbyelongated,fusiform
cellsconnectedbyaCMCandcontainsproteinandmelaningranules.Thecortexcellalsocontains
spindleshapedfibrousstructurescalledmacrofibrils,eachoneconsistsofmicrofibrilsthatarehighly
organizedfibrilarunitsandmatrix.Thematrixisformedbycrystallineproteinofhighcystinecontent.The
macrofibrilsarearrangedinaspiralformation.Insidethemicrofibrilstherearesubfilamentousunitscalled
protofilaments,eachcontainsshortsectionsofalphahelicalproteinsincoiledcoilformationpolypeptide
chainsofproteins.Thealphahelixisheldcoiledbychemicalforcessuchas:Ionicforces,hidrogene
bonds,VandeWaalforcesanddisulfidebonds.Hairstraighteningprocessconsistsonbreakingtheforces
thatholdthecoil,allowingittobestretched.Iftheruptureofthechemicalbondsisfollowedbycurling
thehair,itiscalledperm,meaningpermanentcurling.Theprocessofreductionthehairinvolveshair
swellingandveryalkalinesubstancessuchassodiumorlithiumhydroxide,guanidine,ammonium
thioglicolate,pHhigherthan9.0.AllthiscanproducesplitsorcrackstotheendocuticleandtheCMC,but
themajordamagetohairafterusinghairreducingproductsisindeedduetomisuseoftheproductsand
lackofcareduringcombinghairinthereducedstate.[4,5,6,7]Hairdamagecausedbytheuseofchemical
procedurescanbeminimized,avoidedorrepairedbythecorrectuseofhaircareproducts.Haircosmetics
mayenhancehairhydrophobicity,strengthenthecuticleandminimizeelectricalchargesandfriction
forces.[2,5,6,8]

HAIRDAMAGE
Thehydrophobicityofthehairispossiblethankstothe18MEAlipidlayer.Removalofthiscovalently
linkedfattyacidrendersthefiberhydrophilic.Whenwet,virginhaircanbestretchedby30%oftheir
originallengthwithoutdamagehowever,irreversiblechangesoccurwhenhairisstretchedbetween30%
and70%.Stretchingto80%causesfracture.[4]Hairisporousanddamagedhairisintenselyso.Water

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absorptioncausesthehairshaftswelling.Excessiveorrepeatedchemicaltreatment,groominghabits,and
environmentalexposureproducechangesinhairtextureandifextremecanresultinhairbreakage.These
changescanbeseenmicroscopicallyasweatheringofthehairshaftandcontributetotangling,and
frizzing.Weatheringistheprogressivedegenerationfromtheroottothetipofthehair.Normalweathering
isduetodailygroomingpractices.Whenthehairisextremelyweatheredandchemicallytreated,there
maybescalingofthecuticlelayers,removalofthe18MEAandcuticlecrack.Ifthecuticleisremoved,
theexposureofthecortexandfurthercortexdamagemayleadtohairfiberfracture.Theuseofhair
cosmeticsmayrestorehaircuticledamageandpreventhairbreakagebyreducingfrictionandwaterpick
up.[2,4,5,8,9]

SHAMPOOS
Shampoosarenotonlyscalpcleaners,butindubitablyactaspreventingthehairshaftdamage.Manyscalp
diseasesarealsotreatedbyactiveingredientsthatareaddedtotheshampoo'sformulations.Itisdesirable
thatwhatevermaythediseaseorconditionbe(dermatitis,seborrhea,alopecia,psoriasis),thehairstrands
arekeptaestheticallypresentable,preservingitssoftness,combabilityandshinewhiletreatingthescalp.
[10,11,12,13,14,15]

Shampoosaretypicallycomposedof1030ingredientsalthoughproductswithasfewasfouringredients
areavailable.Theproductsaregroupedinto:(1)Cleansingagents(2)additivesthatcontributetothe
stabilityandcomfortoftheproduct(3)conditioningagents,intendedtoimpartsoftnessandgloss,to
reduceflyawayandtoenhancedisentanglingfacility,and(4)specialcareingredients,designatedtotreat
specificproblems,suchasdandruffandgreasyhair.[11,12,13]

Conditionsthataremostlyaffectedbytheuseofaggressiveshampoosare:Difficultyinuntanglingthe
strands,andthefrizzeffect.Attrition,themaincauseoffrizz,canbeminimizedbyadequateformulation
ofcleaningproducts.Ontheotherhand,iftheshampooformulasdonotpresenttheadequatecomposition,
fiberattritionisaggravated.[10,16]

Althoughconsideredassafeproducts,shampooscancausecontactdermatitis.Commonallergensin
shampoosare:Cocamidopropylbetaine,methylchloroisothiazolinone,formaldehydereleasing
preservatives,propyleneglycol,VitaminE(tocopherol),parabensandbenzophenones.[14,15]

SURFACTANTS
Surfactantsarecleaningagentsthatsubstitutedsoap[Table1].Theyactthroughtheweakeningofthe
physicochemicaladherenceforcesthatbindimpuritiesandresiduestothehair.Surfactantsdissolvethese
impurities,preventingthemfrombindingtotheshaftorthescalp.Thecleansingabilityofashampoo
dependsonhowwellitremovesgreaseaswellasthetypeandamountofsurfactantsused.[5,10]

Residuesarenonsolublefats(sebum)thatdonotdissolvewithwater.Inordertoberemovedfromthehair
shaft,surfactantspresentahydrophobicmolecularportion,andanotherhydrophilic.Theformerwill
chemicallybondwiththefat,whilethelatterwillbondwiththewater.Thesurfactantsaregenerally
composedofachainoffattyhydrocarbons(tail)andapolarhead.Thepolarextremityiscapableofgiving
thisportionofthemoleculehydrophilictraitsthatallowittodissolveinwaterandwashawaytheresidues.
Thesurfactantsincontactwiththewaterattainthestructuralformationofamicelle.Theirstructure
becomessphericalwithahydrophilicexterior,whichcanberinsedwithwater,andahydrophobicinterior
wherethefatsandresiduesarebinded.Whenenoughshampoomoleculeshaveembeddedtheir
hydrocarbonendsintheparticle,thesurroundingwatermoleculesattracttheionicendsofthesurfactant.
Theparticlethenbecomesemulsified,orsuspendedinwater.Inthisform,itcanberinsedaway.
[4,5,11,12,13]Dependingupontheelectricchargeofthepolarextremity,thesurfactantsareclassifiedin
fourgroups:Anionic,cationic,amphotericandnonionic.Themaincleansingagentsareanionic.Thesoap,
whichisalsoananionicdetergent,incontactwithwater,leavesanalkalineresiduethatisveryharmfulto
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thehairandskinandthatprecipitatesintheformofcalciumsaltswhichaccumulateinthehairstrands,
leavingthemopaqueandtangled.Sucheffectsdonothappenwiththenewanionicsurfactantsthatare
derivedfromthesulfationoffattyacidsandanaloguepolioxiethilenes(alquilsulfates,alquilethersulfates)
whicharesmoothcleansersandcosmeticallysuperior.Thecurrentexpressionsulfatelessshampoorefers
toapreparationwithouttheanionicsurfactant.Theoreticallythesulfatlessshampoocreatesaminimum
electricalnet,buttherearenopublishedanalysisabouteffectivenessoftheseproductsregardingeither
cleansingpowerorhairshaftaggression.[11,12,14,15,16]

Cationic,amphotericandnonionicsurfactantsareaddedtosomeshampooformulastoreducethestatic
electricitygeneratingeffectscausedbytheanionicsurfactants.Sincetheycarryapositivecharge,cationic
surfactantsbondquicklytothestrandsnegativelychargedduetotheuseofanionicsurfactantsandreduce
thefrizzeffect.Besides,theyoptimizetheformationoffoamandtheviscosityofthefinalproduct.The
staticelectricityverifiedaftertheuseofshampooisexactlytheresultofabalancingoutbetweenthe
electricchargesduringtheremovalofsebumandresidue.Negativechargeofthehairfiberrepelsthealso
negativechargeofthemicelle.Therepulsionofchargesallowsrinsingwithwater.However,theresultis
anincreaseofthepreexistingnegativityofthestrandsandtheformationofstablecomplexesthatbond
withthekeratin,creatingrepulsionbetweenthestrandsduetoexcessivestaticelectricity.Althoughthe
cationicagentstrytoneutralizethiseffect,thereistheinterferenceoftheshampoopH,whichcanincrease
thestaticelectricityandreducechargeneutralization.[4,5,6,12,14,15,16]

Anionicsurfactants
Anionicsurfactantsarecharacterizedbyanegativelychargedhydrophilicpolargroup.Examplesof
anionicsurfactantsareammoniumlaurylsulfate,sodiumlaurethsulfate,sodiumlaurylsarcosinate,sodium
myrethsulfate,sodiumparethsulfate,sodiumstearte,sodiumlaurylsulfate,alphaolefinsulfonate,
ammoniumlaurethsulfate.Althoughverygoodinremovingsebumanddirt,anionicsurfactantsarestrong
cleanersandmaycauseanincreaseonelectricalnegativechargesonthehairsurfaceandincreasefrizzand
friction.Inordertominimizedamage,othersurfactantscalledsecondarysurfactantssuchasnonionicand
amphotericsurfactantsareaddedtotheformulation.[5,11,17,18]

Cationicsurfactants
Cationicsurfactantshaveapositivelychargedhydrophilicend.Typicalexamplesare
trimethylalkylammoniumchlorides,andthechloridesorbromidesofbenzalkoniumandalkylpyridinium
ions.Allareexamplesofquats,sonamedbecausetheyallcontainaquaternaryammoniumion.Theytend
toneutralizethenegativelychargednetofthehairsurfaceandminimizefrizz.Theyareoftenusedas
shampoo'ssofteners.[5,11,17,18]

Amphotericsurfactants
Fortheamphotericsurfactants,thechargeofthehydrophilicpartiscontrolledbythepHofthesolution.
Thismeansthattheycanactasanionicsurfactantinanalkalicsolutionorasacationicsurfactantinan
acidicsolution.Theyareverymildandhaveexcellentdermatologicalproperties.Therearetwotypesof
amphotericcompounds:Alkyliminopropionatesand(amido)betaines.[5,11,17,18]

Nonionicsurfactants
Nonionicsurfactantshavenoelectriccharge.Theydonotionizeinaqueoussolutionsbecausetheir
hydrophilicgroupisofanondissociable.Manylongchainalcoholsexhibitsomesurfactantproperties.
Prominentamongthesearethefattyalcohols,cetylalcohol,stearylalcohol,andcetostearylalcohol
(consistingpredominantlyofcetylandstearylalcohols),andoleylalcohol.[5,6,11,17,18,19,20]

CONDITIONERS
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Conditionersareusedtodecreasefriction,detanglethehair,minimizefrizzandimprovecombability.
Conditionersactbyneutralizingtheelectricalnegativechargeofthehairfiberbyaddingpositivecharges
andbylubricatingthecuticlethatreducesfiberhydrophilicity.Theycontainantistaticandlubricating
substancesthataredividedinto5maingroups:Polymers,oils,waxes,hydrolyzedaminoacidsandcationic
molecules.[5]Themostactiveandusedconditioneragentisasilicone.[21,22,23]Therearedifferenttypes
ofsiliconeswithdifferentdeposition,adherenceandwashoutcapacitywhichwillleadtodifferent
performancesoftheconditioner.[21,22,23]Theidealconditioneriscapableofrestorethehydrophobicity
ofthefiberandneutralizethestaticelectricity.Dependingonthecapacityofenteringthefiber,the
conditionermayreachthecuticlesurfaceortheinnerpartofthecortex.Smallermoleculescanreachthe
cortex.Largeronesactonthecuticle.Lowmolecularweightpolypeptides(<10.000Da)candiffuseinto
hair.Biggermolecules(500.000Da)candiffuseintothecuticle,especiallyonbleachedhair.Thepreferred
routeisintercellulardiffusionordiffusionthroughthenonkeratinregions,althoughintracellulardiffusion
mayalsooccur.Highermoleculeweightpolymers(<600.000Da)maysorptiononthesurfaceofthehair
shaft.[5]Cationicingredientssuchascationicpolymersareverypopularinhairproducts.Theycanbeso
substantivetothehairthattheycanbedifficulttoremove.Theyarehighlysubstantivetohairbecauseof
thehair'slowisoelectricpoint(pH3.67).AnycosmeticwithhigherpHbearsanetnegativechargeonthe
hairsurface,andthereforecationiccharges(positive)areattractedtoit.[4,5,12,16,20]Also,VanderWaals
forcesandentropyarenecessarytobindthemoleculetothefiber,andtheymustberesistanttorinsing
withwater.[5,22]Examplesofsuchpolymersare:Benzyldimethylammoniumchlorideand
distearyldimoniumchloride.Thegoodcorrelationbetweensiliconeoildropletsstability,depositiononhair
andresultantfrictionofhairsupportthatdropletsizeanduniformityareimportantfactorsforcontrolling
thestabilityanddepositionpropertyofemulsionbasedproductssuchasshampooandconditioner.[20]

Itiscommontousecationicingredientsinmanyshampoos'formulationswithanionicsurfactantsinorder
toresultinchargeneutralizationformingacationicanioniccomplex,aneutralhydrophobicingredient.
Therefore,wecanunderstandthattheinteractionbetweentheingredientsismoreimportantthanthe
ingredientalone,asweareledtobelievebythemedia.Itisverycommontothinkthatanewrelease
productthatcontainsacertainingredienthasthemagicabilitytotransformdullhairintoshinyandsmooth
hair.Mostofthetime,themajoringredientsdonotchange,andsometimesthecapacityoftheingredients
tointeractinsidetheshampoo'sorconditioner'schassisorsystemiswhatmakestheproductactsbetter.
Bleachedandchemicaltreatedhairhaveahigheraffinitytoconditioningingredientsbecausetheyhavea
lowisoelectricpoint(higherconcentrationofnegativesites)andaremoreporousthanvirginhair.[5,20]

Functionsoftheconditionersare:[5,12]

Improvecombability
Mimetizethehairnaturallipidouterlayer:18MEA
Restorehydrophobicity
Sealthecuticle
Avoidorminimizefrizz,friction:Neutralizethenegativechargednet
Enhanceshine,smoothnessandmanageability.

SILICONES
Siliconesarehybrid(inorganicorganic)inert,heatresistantandrubberlikepolymersderivedfromcristal
quartz.Silica(silicondioxide)commoninsandstone,beachsand,andsimilarnaturalmaterials,isthe
initialmaterialfromwhichsiliconesareproduced.

Dimethiconeisthemostwidelyusedsiliconeinhaircareindustry,andentropyisimportantforits
adsorptiontothehairsurface.Dimethiconeisthemainingredientofthetwoinoneshampoos.Othersare:
Aminosilicones,siloxysilicates,anionicsiliconesandothers.Theydifferondepositionandsolubilityina
watermedium,thereforeactingdifferentlyonthehair.Somesiliconescanevenenhancetheshineofhair

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fiberbyreflectingthelight.Dimethiconehastheeffectofprotectingthehairshaftfromabrasiveactions
whilesiloxysilicatesincreasehairbody.[5,21,22,23]

Polysiloxanepolymersmayrecementliftedcuticlescalesandpreventdamagefromheat.Amino
functionalsiliconesarecationicsubstancesbutnotnecessarilyaremoresubstantivetothehairthan
dimethicone,dependingonthesizeofthemoleculeandthechargeofthesystem.Dimethiconesare
hydrophobic,sotheyadsorbbetteronvirginhairandrootratherthantips.Toenhancethedepositionof
dimethiconeonchemicaltreatedanddamagedhairtheproductsusecationicbridgingagentswhichact
increasingaffinitybetweenhairandthesilicone.[4,5,12,24,23]

Otherpolymersarethepolypeptidesandproteinsfortheyareverysubstantivetothehairforhavingmany
ionicandpolarsitesforbondingandarelargemoleculestoattachtothehairsurface(vanderWallsforce).
Smallmoleculescanevendiffuseintohair(<1000Da)especiallyondamagedhair.Proteinhydrolysates,
inparticularthosewithlowmolecularweightdistribution,havebeenknowntoprotecthairagainst
chemicalandenvironmentaldamage.Manytypesofproteinhydrolysatesfromplantsandanimalshave
beenusedinhairandpersonalcaresuchaskeratinhydrolysatesobtainedfromnails,hornsandwool.Most
ofthesehydrolysatesareobtainedbychemicalhydrolysisandhydrothermalmethods,butrecently
hydrolyzedhairkeratin,featherkeratinpeptideshavebeenobtainedbyenzymatichydrolysisusing
Bacillussppinsubmergedfermentation.Thehydrolysedproteinderivedfromfeatherwasdepositedonthe
cuticlescales,andhelpedsealingthecuticleespeciallyafterheatingwithaflatiron,improvinghaircolor
andshine.[25]Ahigheramountofproteinwasdepositedonchemicaltreatedhair,especiallybleached.As
thehydrolyzedaminoacidsarepositivelycharged,itispossiblethatthenegativechargeofthedamaged
hairattractsthepositivelychargedmoleculesneutralizingtheelectricalchargesanddiminishingfrizzand
friction.[25]

Keratinhydrolysatesareusuallypreparedfromkeratincontaininganimalparts,suchasfeathers,horns,
hoofs,hairandwool,collectedfromdiscardedmaterials.Someindustrieshavedevelopedproductsthat
useacomplexofnonanimalfreeaminoacidsderivedfromwheat,cornandsoyproteinstomimicthe
naturalcompositionofkeratin.However,keratinisanirreplaceableproteininrespecttoitsmechanicaland
protectiveproperties,andtheusingofaminoacidsdonotreplaceorrestorethedamagedmolecule
structure.[25]

OTHERSUBSTANCES:MINERALANDVEGETABLEOILS
Therearefewarticlespublishedabouttheeffectofmineralandvegetableoilsonhumanhair.Themain
physicalpropertyofthisclassofingredientsisthehydrophobicityoftheoil.Saturatedandmonosaturated
oilsdiffuseintothehairmuchbetterthanpolyunsaturatedoils.[5]

Oilsplayanimportantroleinprotectinghairfromdamage.Someoilscanpenetratethehairandreducethe
amountofwaterabsorbedinthehair,leadingtoaloweringofswelling.[26]Thiscanresultinlowerhygral
fatigue(repeatedswellinganddrying),afactorthatcandamagehair.Theoilcanfillthegapbetweenthe
cuticlecellsandpreventthepenetrationoftheaggressivesubstancessuchassurfactantsintothefollicle.
Applyingoilonaregularbasiscanenhancelubricationoftheshaftandhelppreventhairbreakage.Rele
andMohilein2003,studiedthepropertiesofmineraloil,coconutoilandsunfloweroilonhair.[27]
Amongthreeoils,coconutoilwastheonlyoilfoundtoreducetheproteinlossforbothundamagedand
damagedhairwhenusedasaprewashandpostwashgroomingproduct.Bothsunflowerandmineraloils
donothelpinreducingtheproteinlossfromhair.Thisdifferenceinresultscouldarisefromthe
compositionofeachoftheseoils.Coconutoil,beingatriglycerideoflauricacid(principalfattyacid),has
ahighaffinityforhairproteinsandbecauseofitslowmolecularweightandstraightlinearchain,isableto
penetrateinsidethehairshaft.Mineraloil,ahydrocarbon,doesnotpenetrate.Sunfloweroilisa
triglycerideoflinoleicacidwithabulkystructureanddoublebondsandhaslimitedpenetrationtothe

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fiber,notreachingthecortex.Themineraloilandthesunfloweroilmayhaveafilmeffectandadsorbto
thesurfaceofthecuticleenhancingshineanddiminishingfrictionandforthese,avoidhairdamage.[22]

Keisetal.in2005studiedtheeffectofcoconutoil,oliveoil,sunfloweroilandmineraloilonthehair.[28]
Exceptformineraloil,heatdecreasedthecapillaryadhesionoftheotheroils,resultingfromthe
penetrationintothehairfiberbydiffusion,leavingathinfilmonthesurface.Althoughthickfilmsofoil
canmasktheliftedscalesofthecuticle,itmayleaveanoilyandheavylooktothehair.Itispreferredto
reapplyoilsthatleaveathinlayeronthesurfaceandarewellabsorbedbythefiber.In2009,theBrazilian
oilsandbutterswerestudiedbyFregonesietal.[29]Theyanalyzedthefollowingsubstances:Passionfruit
seed(77%linoleicacid),Braziliannut(38%oleicacidand35%linoleicacid),palmolein(47%oleic
acid),buriti(79%oleicacid),palmstearin(42%palmiticacidand41%oleicacid),tucum(48%lauric
acidand27%myristicacid),ucuba(75%myristicacid),sapucainha(47%chaulmoogricacid,27%
hydnocarpicand19gorlicacid).Oiltreatmentreducedthecombingforcepercentageforwetconditions.
However,thehairtreatedwithbuttersshowedpoorcombing.Treatmentsusingoilsreducedtheformation
ofsplitendsinthehair.TressestreatedwithBraziliannutandmineraloilsgavethelowestformationof
splitends.[29]

Thereductionofcombingforcesisacombinationofwaterwettingandthelubricanteffectsoftheoilon
thefibers.Buttersincreasedthecombingforce.Buttersinrawstatearenotasfluidasoilsanddonot
spreadeasilyalonghairtresses.TheBraziliannut,passionfruitseed,palmolein,buritiandmineraloils
producedcombingforcereduction.Mineraloilhasnoaffinitytohair'sproteinsandisnotabletodiffusein
thefiber.Mineraloilmaineffectsareitshigherspreadingcapabilityonthehairsurfacewhichimproves
gloss,combingfacilityandreducessplitendformation.[29]

In2007Keisetal.[30]studiedtheeffectofoilfilmsonmoisturevaporonhumanhairtoanalyzethe
capabilityofoilstoreducethemoisturepickup.Althoughcoconutoilpenetrates,thefiberandmineraloil
doesnot,thereistheequivalentreductiononwatersorptionforbothoils.Increasingthethicknessofthe
oillayeronthefibersurfaceincreasedhairmoistureregain.Theoilthatremainsinthecuticlelayerand
nottheoilthatpenetratesthecortexistheoneresponsibleforthedecreaseinthewaterpickup.

Marrocanarganoilhasbecomeverypopularasahaircosmeticmainingredient,referredascapableof
keepingthehairmoisturizedandhydrophobic.Morocco'sarganoilisnowthemostexpensiveedibleoilin
theworld.Theargantree(ArganiaspinosaL.Skeels),anendemictreeinMorocco,isthemostremarkable
speciesinNorthAfrica,duetoitsbotanicalandbioecologicinterestaswellasitssocialvalue.Theoilis
richintocopherolsandpolyphenols,powerfulantioxidants.[31]Arganoilisextractedfromthekernelsof
arganfruitsthathavebeensundriedforeitherafewdaysoruptoseveralweeks.Thefruitdryingtime
influencesthequalityoftheextractedoil.[32]Althoughthereisscientificliteratureabouttheuseofthe
moroccanoilforchronicconditionssuchasatherosclerosisandpsoriasisforitscardioprotective
properties,thereisalackofdataaboutthebenefitsforhaircare.[33,34]

DIFFUSIONINTOKERATINFIBERS
Therearetwomainwaysforasubstancetopenetratethehairfiber:Transcellularandintercellular
diffusion,transcellulardiffusionenvolvesepicuticle,Alayer,exocuticle,endocuticleandismuchharder
pathwaybecauseofthehighcrosslinkedregions.Intercellulardiffusionenvolvestheintercellular
cement,anditisthepreferredrouteforlargemoleculesbecausethelowsulfurandnonkeratinproteinsare
moreeasilyswollen.Bothroutescanoccurdependingonthesizeofthemolecule,hairdamageand
cosmeticsystemoftheappliedproduct.[5]

Diffusionrateintokeratinfibersdependsonthecrosslinkdensityofhair.Reactionslikebleaching,that
decreasesthecrosslinkdensityincreasestherateoftranscellulardiffusion,meaningthatbleachedhairis
morerapidpenetratedbyconditioners,dyes,hairstraighteningsubstancesoranyproductappliedtothe
hairfiber.However,penetrationintotheintercellularregionscanleadtoscaleliftingandcausehair
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damage.Scaleliftingisinducedbythedepositofinsolublecationicanioniccomplex,meaningwhichcan
occurbecauseoftheinteractionandbondingoftheanionicsurfactantsoftheshampoowiththecationic
conditioningingredients.[5,35]

LEAVEONCONDITIONERS
Cremerinsesbasicallycontaincationicsurfactants,longchainfattyalcoholorotherlipidcomponents.
Cationicpolymersarethealsoused,suchaspolyquaternarium10.Someexamplesthatwecanfindamong
theingredientsarecetrimoniumchlorideandstearalkoniumchloride.Examplesoflipidsarecetylalcohol,
stearylalcoholorsiliconessuchasdimethicone.Deepconditionerscontainmoreconcentratedingredients
orjustmoreviscosity.Somepolymersarereportedtobuildupthehairandbindtoanionicsurfactants.The
complexresistsshampooingfromhair.Cremerinsesaresupposedtoberinsedwithwater.Settinglotions
ormousseknownasleaveonproductsaredesignedtobeappliedonwethairordryhairandleftwithout
rinsing.Theyareaqueousbasedoralcoholwatersolventsystems.Theseproductsdonotformrigidbonds
andactbyenhancinginterfiberforcesandbyprovidingadetanglingeffecttofacilitatecombingandstyle
retention.[5,17,35]

AFRICANHAIRANDCURLYHAIR
Afroethnichairpresentsvariationofdiameteratseveralpointsalongthethread(thediameterattwisting
pointsissmallerthanatotherareas),lesswatercontent,andmostimportantly,anellipsoidshape.Hair
fiberspresenttorsionsatmanyregionsalongthethread,whileCaucasianhairhasacylindricalcross
section.

Thesmallangleofthewavesofverycurlyhairmakesitmoresusceptibletobreakage,whenmechanically
workedmakingcurlyhairmoredifficulttocombwithoutprovokingfrizz.Althoughtheproductionof
sebumishighonAfricanhair,curlyandwavyhairtheyaremorepronetohaveoilyscalpbutdryerhair
fiber.SebaceousglandsofAfricandescendantsarefrequentlylessactive,whencomparedwiththe
Caucasianones,andtheyproducelowamountsofsebum.Thisway,bothscalpandthreadsaredrybecause
theydonothavegoodlubrication,evenwhenthecuticleispreservedandthescalptendstobeless
hydrated.Usually,thescalpisrelativelydryinordertothenaturallyirregulardistributionofsebum.[7]
Distributionofsebumalongthefibersbycombingandbrushingisawayoflubricatingcurlyhairbecause
ofthenaturaldifficultyofthesebumproducedonthescalptodiffusealongthefiber.[5,7,36]

Toreachvarietyofstyling,verycurlyhairisfrequentlystraightenedbypressingorbychemical
relaxing/straightening.But,asthefiberisextremelysensibleandpronetobreakageitisnotunusualthat
curlyandstraightenedhairdonotachievelonglengthandbreaksduringthegrowingprocess.
[9,37,38,39,40,41,42,43]

Finestraighthaircantransportsebumverywell,andcurlycoarsehairtendtominimizetressclumpingand
limpness.Theuseofconditionersandleaveonproductsdecreaseinterfiberfrictionmakinghaireasierto
comb.Chargeabilityalsodecreaseshelpingtoimprovedrycombing.[4,5,6]

Theuseofantidandruffshampooscanmakehairmoredifficulttocomb.Highcleansingshampoos
removesurfaceoilsandincreasechargeabilitybydepositingsmallamountsofanionicsurfactantsontothe
hair.Lessflyawayisachievablebylubricatingthefibersurfaceanddecreasingstaticcharge.Groominga
nonlubrifiedhairmayleadtohairbreakage.Abrasionandfrictionareimpactantfactorsthatcausehair
damagebyproteinloss.Theuseofconditionerswithoilsandsiliconesareimportanttominimizethe
rubbingandfrictionofthecuticlecellsforchemicaltreatedhairandaftertheuseofantidundruff
shampoos.[4,5]BlackhairhaslessdensitythanCaucasianhair.ThenumberofhairfolliclesinCaucasians
is120.000andinAfricandescendantsis90.000.ThisisthewaytheAfricandescendantsmayexperience
somefeelingofhairlossafterperformingahairstraighteningprocedurebecausewhenthehairloses
volume,thescalpmaybeexposedbecauseofthelowernumberofhairfollicles.[17,44]
HAIRSTRENGTH
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HAIRSTRENGTH
Patientswanttheirhairtoberesistanttobreakagewithnosplitends.Hairstrengthisamixofhairbody
massandresistancetobreakage.Astronghairisahairwithitsfullcapacityofgrowinghealthyinboth
diameterandlengthandanintactcuticleandcortex.[5]

Weknowthatsplitendsaremorelikelytooccurinweatheredandoxidizedhair.But,splitendshappen
whenthecuticleisremoved(damaged)andthecortexcortexCMCservesasarouteforthepropagationof
axialsplitsinthefiber,leadingtotheformationofcracksandsplitends.Hairstrengthdependsoncuticle
integrityandamountofwaterinthefibers,conditionsthatarerelatedtochemicaldamage.Chemical
damagebybleaches,dyes,straightenersandevensunlightcanweakenhairandincreaseinterfiber
friction,leadingtobreakage.Animportantfactorinvolvedinhairbreakageistheoccurrenceoftangles
createdbycombingforces.Wherethebreakoccursalongthefiber,correspondtothepointofhigher
combingforces.Thetypeoffracturedependsonhairconditionandwetversusdrycombingorbrushing.
Combingdryhairismorerelatedtoshortsegmentbreaks,andwetcombingisrelatedtolongsegment
breaks.Theshortsegmentbreaksaremorerelatedtosplitends.Straighttowavyhaircombeddry,
produceshigherendpickforcesthanmidlengthforces,butwhenwet,produceshighermidlength
combingforcescorrespondingtowherehairbreaksandtotheamountofbreakage.Theworkofcombing
highlycoiledhairislowerwetthandry.Thereverseholdsforwavytostraighthair.Splitendsformmore
readilyfromtheabrasion(friction)incombinationwithtorsionaldeformations(groomingandstyling).
Splittingoccurwhenthecuticleisdamagedandweakened.Crackisformedinthecortex.Fewcuticle
layersdonotholdtheendsofthehairfibertogether.Also,highlyoxidizedcortexcellmembranebyfree
radicalchemistryismoresusceptibletosplit.Hairtreatedwithfreeradicalcosmeticsandexposedto
sunlightissusceptibletosplitting.[5,8,38]

Also,hairbodyismaybedefinedasthestructuralstrengthandresiliencyofahairmass,sensedbypatients
ashavingasoftandfirmtouchandfullvolume.Fullvolumeismeaningascalpfullcoveredwithterminal
hairfibersthatgrowtothedesiredlengthwithoutbreaking.

Stronghair
Hairdensity+diameter+resistancetobreakage(nosplitends)+length+smoothfiberinteraction(no
frizz)+notangles(easycombing,manageability)+integrityofthecuticlelayers+integrityofthecortex
cortexCMC+integrityofthecuticlesurfacelipids(18MEA)+healthyhairfollicle(toproduceanormal
healthyhairfiber).Stronghairappearsaslong,full,shiny,manageablehair.Manageablehairisthesame
aseasycombablehair,perceivedassofthair,easytofingercomb.Weakhairappearsasdull,withirregular
length(duetosplitends),frizzed,rough,sometimeswithlowdensityonthescalp,tangledanddifficultto
fingercomb.[5,8,38]

COSMETICSFORTHINHAIR
Prescriptionmedicationsareoftenfocusedonimprovingscalphairdensity.Dermatologistsareveryused
toprescribeminoxidilandfinasterideinordertostimulatetheanagenhairphase.Butitisnotalways
possibletoobtainterminalthickhairfiber.Manypostmenopausalwomenmayachieveabettercosmetic
lookifthemedicalprescriptioniscombinedtocosmetichaircareproductsthatmayincreasehairfiber
diameterinanonpermanentway.[45]

Fiberdiameterisanotherkeycontributortothinninghair,butitislessoftenthefocusofmedicalor
cosmetictreatments.Acrylatepolymercombinedwithdimethiconemayaffectthediameterandbehavior
ofscalphairfiberstocounteractdecreasingfiberdiameters.Itmaybeappliedinthemorning,leaving
minoxidiltobeusedatbedtime.IntheworkofDavisetal.theexistingterminalscalphairfibersyielded
anincreaseinthecrosssectionalareaofapproximately10%ofthepreviousdiameter.[45]

CONSIDERATIONSABOUTTHEHAIRWASHINGANDGROOMING
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CONSIDERATIONSABOUTTHEHAIRWASHINGANDGROOMING
PROCEDURES
Shampoomustaimthescalpmorethanahair.Theentirescalphastoberubbedwiththeshampoofrom
thefronttotheback,andsmallamountsofshampoohavetobeappliedoneachregionoftheheadunder
thehair.Applingtheshampooonthetopoftheheadwillincreasehairfrictionandcausehairtangling.
Afterfullrinseoftheshampoo,thehairmustbegentlytoweldried,andtheconditionershouldbeapplied
onthehairlengthavoidingthescalp.Theconditionerhastobecompletelyrinsedout.Applicationofhair
conditionersaftershampoowilllowerinterfiberfrictionandreducecombingforces.Ifthehairiscurly,
leaveonproductsmaybeusedduringwetcombing.Theuseofleaveonproductsonstraightvirginhair
maycauseanoilylookanddullthehair.Gentlehairisdealingactions(gentleshampooing,gentletowel
drying,gentlebrushingorcombing)isrecommended.Manyproductsmaybeusedtolubricateandseal
cuticlecells,suchassilicones(dimethiconeandaminoterminalsilicones)andvegetableoils.Grooming
withahairdryerorflatironrequiresasiliconeheatprotectorthatwillspreadtheheatalongthehairfiber
surfaceavoidingwaterboilingandthedevelopmentofhairbubbles.[4,5,6,8,20,46,47]

HAIRSTRAIGHTENERS
Historically,thefirsthairstraightenerprocedurewasusedforAfricanhairandconsistedonapplying
petrolatumbasedoilsonthehaircombinedwithhotironsorhotcombspressedtothehairsothedevice
couldslideeasilyandstraightenthetresses.Thistypeofprocessproducesonlytemporarystraightening,
functioningcohesiveandadhesiveforcesinahighlyviscoussystemtokeepthefibersparallel.Thehabit
ofhairstraighteningwasfirstusedtoallowmanageabilityofverycoarsehairbutnowadayshaving
straighthairhasbecomepopularallovertheworld.[7,37]

Officialhairstraightenersarecalledchemicalrelaxers,andtheeffectofhairstraighteningispermanent.
Alkalinestraightenerscontain110%sodiumhydroxide(lyerelaxer),lithiumhydroxide,calcium
hydroxideoracombinationoftheseingredientssuchasguanidinecarbonateandcalciumhydroxide(no
lyerelaxers).ThehighpH(9.014.0)oftheemulsionswellsthehair,thusopeningcuticlescales,which
allowsthealkalineagent(OH)topenetrateintothehairfibersuptotheendocuticle.Inthecontactwith
thecortex,thestraighteningproductreactswithkeratin,breakingandrearrangingthedisulfidebridges,
whichmakingthespiralkeratinmoleculesoftandstretched.[5,7,46]

Thechemicalrelaxersmaynotbeappliedonthescalpfortheycancauseskinburn.Itisindicatedthat
somepetrolatumisappliedalongthehairlineandontheearsbeforetheapplicationoftherelaxerto
preventalkalineburns.Alkaliesreactwithkeratincystinegroupsproductinglanthionylresidues,astable
thioesthercrosslink.Itiscalledlanthionizationandconsistsonthesubstitutionofathirdofthecystine
aminoacidcontentforlanthionine,withlowerhydrolysisofpeptidebonds.[5,7]

Disulfidebondsarecleavedusinganalkalinereducingagentthenthehairismechanicallystraightened
usingacombduringthereducingphasetorestructurethepositionofdisulfidebondsbetweennew
polypeptidekeratins.Theyalsoreactwithpeptidebonds,hydrolyticallycleavingthislinkage,producing
acidandaminegroups,andproducingresiduesofasparticandglutamicacids.Therelaxersareappliedon
prewashedhairandafterusage,mustberinsedoffwithrunningwater.Theyprovidethemostpermanent
hairstraighteningbutifappliedwiththewrongtechniquemaycausescalpburnsandhairbreakage.The
pHofalkalinestraightenersvariesfrom12toabove13.HairissensitivetopHvaluechangesandalkaline
solutionsswellthefibersandopenthecuticlescales.Thiscanmakethehairsusceptibletofriction,
loweringitsresistanceandstrength.

Hairstraighteningneedstoberepeatedevery12weeksorlonger.Theemphasisshouldbeonlyonnew
growthhairsincerepeatedtreatmentscanleadtohairbreakage,whichusuallyoccursatthejunctionofthe
newgrowthandpreviouslytreatedhair.Carefulapplicationtonewgrowthonlyandpreviousconditioning
ofthehaircanhelppreventexcessivebreakage.IntheworkofShettyetal.,themostcommonadverse
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effectsreportedafterchemicalhairstraighteningwere:Frizzyhairin67%,dandruffin61%,hairlossin
47%,thinningandweakeningofhairin40%,greyingofhair22%,andsplitendsinonly17%.

Thereisnoneedtouseexternalforcesorheat,suchasahotironbecauseofphenomenacalled
supercontractionthatprovidesenoughstresstostraightenthefiberinapermanentbasis.Sodium
hydroxide(lyerelaxer)maystraightenthehairinonly20min.Althoughhairrelaxersaredesiredfor
increasinglength,Khumaloetal.foundthattheachievedhairlengthwassignificantlyshorterthan
expected.Thismaybetruebecauseofthesupercontractioneffect.[47]

AmmoniumThioglycolateisanothernolyerelaxerthatcancauseextremeswellingofthefiber,but
causeslesssupercontractionthanthealkalinerelaxersthatworkwithlanthionization.Itisachemical
reducingagentwhichselectivelyweakensthehair'scystinebondsinsteadofdisruptingtheentireprotein.
Afterward,thethioglycolatemustbeoxidized(neutralized)withaspecialsolutionofhydrogenperoxide.
Ifahotironisappliedduringtheprocess,thepermanentstraighteningcanbeachieved.Thisisthebasisof
theprocesscalledjaponesehairstraighteningorthermalreconditioning.Thermalreconditioning
involvessupercontractionandtransformationofalphahelicalkeratinproteinsinamorphousprotein.No
lanthionineisformedduringthisprocess,and90%oftheinitialcystinecontentisretainedwith10%
additionalcystineascysteicacid.

Thismeansthattheuseofthioglycolatecauseslessproteinlossthanhydroxides.

Hydroxidesandthioglycolatearenotmutagenicandshownoevidenceofcarcinogenicity.Ifappliedwith
therighttechniqueandwithouttouchingthescalp,theyareconsideredsafe.[5,7,48,49,50,51,52,53]Syed
andNaqvifoundthatthenolyerelaxer(guanidinehydroxide)waslessirritatingtothescalpthanlye
relaxer(sodiumhydroxide).TheauthorsrecommendthatAfricandescendantsandindividualswithvery
curlyhairandsensitivescalpusenolyerelaxers.[39]

Hydroxidesandthioglycolateareincompatiblewitheachother.Ifthehairistreatedwithhydroxidesthe
samehaircannotbetreatedwiththioglycolate.Also,bothareincompatiblewithbleachedhair.So,itisnot
unusualtoreceiveapatientcomplainingthatthehairbroke(hairshedbecauseofhairbreakage)afterthe
useofarelaxer.Toavoidmistakeslikethat,thesalonprofessionalmustperformatestthatconsistsonthe
applicationoftheproductonastrandofhairtoprovecompatibility.Ifthehairbreaksduringthetest,
anotherrelaxermustbetried,orthehairistooweaktobestraightened.Hairconditioningsubstancesmay
beaddedtothyoglicolatestraightenersinordertominimizehairdamage.[48,53]

Theuseofformaldehydeformulationsbecameverypopularsince2003,andthefirstcountrytostartthis
practicewasBrazilinRiodeJaneiro.Themostusedproducts,adecadeago,werebasedonasolutionor
creamcontainingahomemadeformaldehydeformulationobtainedfromamixtureofconditioners,
hydrolizedproteinanda37%formaldehydesolution,easilyobtainedasanoverthecountersubstance,
soldineverydrugstoreinBrazil.Theformaldehydesolutionwascommonlyusedtosterilizemedical
materialsandhospitals,andeasytofindineverydrugstore.Thepracticesoonbecamesopopularthat
calledattentionofthehealthvigilanceorganizationsinBrazil(ANVISA)thatprohibitedtheuseofany
productcontainingformaldehydeinconcentrationsabove0.2%forcosmeticsand5%fornailpolish.
Afterward,theformaldehydewasreplacedbyapotentially10timesmoremutagenicandtheneurotoxic
productbelongingtothesamealdehydegroup:Theglutaraldehyde.Easilyobtainedfromhospitalsand
clinics,glutaraldehydewascommonlyusedasasterilizer.Itwassoonnotahomemadeproductanymore,
butademiindustrializednonlegalsubstance,commercializedineverysaloninBrazil.Thesolutionscame
inbeautifulcoloredbottlesof500mlto1liter.ThelabelcarriedafalseANVISAregistrationnumber,and
theproductwassoldtothesalonsbydoortodoorsellers.[54,55,56,57]

Soon,almosteverysaloninBrazilwasperformingtheBrazilianKeratinTreatment(BKT).Still,
consumerscomplainedofburningeyes,strongsmellandburningmouthandnose.Toavoidsensorial
discomfortwhileapplingtheBKT,theingredientsusedtodayarebasednotonformaldehydeor

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glutaraldehyde,butonformaldehydereleaserssuchasmethileneglycolorglyoxylicacid.Bothsubstances
arecapableofreleasingformaldehydewhenheatedduringtheblowdryandhotironapplication.

BrazilianKeratinTreatmenthasincreasedpopularitybecausetheprocedureiscompatiblewithbleached
hairandgivesthehairanaturalsmooth,shinylook,impossibletoacquirewiththechemicalrelaxers.

BrazilianKeratinTreatmentisknownbymanynamessuchasalbuminehairstraightening,aceticacid
treatment,andhairbotox.ThehealthorganizationsinBrazilandinothercountriescontinuetoclaimthat
onlythechemicalrelaxers(lyeandnolyesrelaxers)areofficiallylegalizedandsafetobeusedashair
straighteners,althoughtheuseofformaldehydereleasers(formaldehydefree)aregrowinginpopularity
eachdaywithpromisesofsafetinesswithnoscientificembasementandwithouttheofficialpermisionof
theBrazilianorUSAgovernments.[58,59]

Themodeofactionoftheformaldehydeisdifferentfromtheothersrelaxersbecauseformaldehydeor
otheraldehydesarenothairstraighteningproducts.Thehairisremodeledstraightbecausewaterbreaks
hydrogenebondsofthekeratinmoleculeashappensinaregularblowdry.Thenewlyredesignedkeratinis
thenkeptinthisshapebecausetheformaldehydecrosslinksthekeratinfilamentsinsuchaperfect
alignmentthatthehairisnowsetstraightandshineslikenovirginstraighthairiscapableof.Thelightthat
strikesthehairreflectsfromtherealignedkeratinfilamentsandbringstheeffectofabrightershinyhair.A
studybySimpsonandCrawshaw[60]whichanalyzedthereactivityofformaldehydeandwoolkeratin,
foundthatformaldehydeformscrosslinkswiththekeratinaminoacidsarginine,lysine,tyrosine,
histidine,andtheamidederivativesofaspartateandglutamate.

Themostinterestingcharacteristicofthealdehydesinthehairisthattheyarecompatibletoeveryother
chemistryavailabletohairtreatment,suchasbleaching,permanentdyesandhairrelaxer,lyeornolye.In
Brazil,AfricanandHispanichairisstraightenedfirstwithchemicalrelaxersandafterwardstreatedwith
BKTtoimproveshineandsoftness.

WHATISCARBOCYSTEINE?
Carbocysteineisacompoundnamedglyoxyloylcarbocysteineoroxoacetamidecarbocysteine.
Carbocisteineisproducedbyalkylationofcysteinewithchloroaceticacidandisamucolyticagentwithno
effectonhairkeratin.Thecompoundcalledcarbocysteinehairtreatmentrepresentsthecombinationof
glyoxylicacid+cisteine+aceticacid.Glyoxylicacidcontainsanaldehydefunctionalgroup.Infact,the
aldehydeisnotobservedinsolutionorasasolid.Ingeneralaldehydeswithelectronwithdrawing
substituentsoftenexistmainlyastheyhydrate.Eventhoughthealdehydeisaveryminorcomponentofits
solutions,glyoxylicacidbehavesasanaldehydeinitsreactionsandisconsideredasensitizerandatoxic
substance.[61,62]

Wemayconcludethatcarbocisteineisnotahairstraighteningproductbyitself,anditisformulated
combinedwithanaldehydesuchasglyoxylicacid.

DAMAGEBYHEAT
Thermaltreatmentsproducedecompositionoftryptophanresiduestokynureninetypeoxidationproducts.
Theconsequencesareyellowingofwhitehairanddarkeningofbleachedhair.Afterthethermaltreatment
withtheadditionoflipidproducts,hairmayseemtobeeasiertocomb.However,aftershampooingand
removingthelipids,hairdriesoutexposingthedamagecausedbyexcessofheat.

Althoughusingahairdryercausesmoresurfacedamagethannaturaldrying,theworkofLeeandcols
concludedthatusingahairdryeratadistanceof15cmwithcontinuousmotioncauseslessdamagethan
dryinghairnaturally.[63]However,duringBKTtheflathotironisappliedtothehairsurface1520times
onthesamespotwheretheproducthasbeenspread.Thispracticeisobviously,veryaggressivetothehair
fiberproteinsintegrity.[64]
SAFETYOFBRAZILIANKERATINTREATMENT
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SAFETYOFBRAZILIANKERATINTREATMENT
In2004,theInternationalAgencyforResearchonCancer(IARC)reclassifiedformaldehyde(FA)froma
probable(Group2A)toaknownhumancarcinogen(Group1)citingresultsfornasopharyngealcancer
(NPC)mortalityfromthefollowupthrough1994oftheNationalCancerInstituteformaldehydecohort
study.Tothecontrary,in2012,theCommitteeforRiskAssessmentoftheEuropeanChemicalsAgency
disagreedwiththeproposaltoclassifyFAasaknownhumancarcinogencarcinogenicity(Carc.1A),
proposingalowerbutstillprotectivecategory,namelyasasubstancewhichispresumedtohave
carcinogenicpotentialforhumans(Carc.1B).[65]However,Marshandcolsdisagreewiththislast
decisionandsuggestthattheNCIpublicationsthatcontaindatafromthe1994mortalityfollowupshould
bereanalyzedfortheyunderstandthatthereisincompletedatatocorrelateformaldehydeexposureand
NPC.[66]

Shresthaetal.foundthatchildrenprenatallyexposedtoformaldehyde,polycyclicaromatichydrocarbons,
perchloroethylene,oracetaldehydeinthethirdtrimesterhadanincreasedoddsofWilms'tumorper
interquartileincreaseinconcentration.[67]Coutofoundarelationshipbetweenpregnancy,maternal
exposuretohairdyesandhairstraighteningcosmetics,withandearlyageleukemia.[68]Mazzeietal.
analysedhomemadehairstraighteningproductscontainingformaldehydeandverifiedthatthe
antibacterialactivitywasdetectedinallcreamswithpositivemutagenicityinduction.Theyconcludedthat
thecreamsshowedanintensegenotoxicresponse.[69]

DNAproteincrosslinksmeasuredinperipheralbloodcellsofhospitalworkerssuggestthatthe
formaldehydemightenterthesystemiccirculationofhumansexposedtoformaldehyde.[70]Areview
abouttheassociationofleukemiaandformaldehydemadebyEastmondetal.,stillhasunclearresults.[71]

Pierceatalconductedastudytocharacterizepotentialformaldehydeexposuresofsalonworkersand
clientsduringkeratinhairsmoothingtreatments.Theresultsofthisstudyshowthatprofessionalhairis
smoothingtreatmentseventhoselabeledformaldehydefreehavethepotentialtoproduce
formaldehydeconcentrationsthatmeetorexceedcurrentoccupationalexposurelimits.[56]

Galiotteetal.inastudyevaluatedthegenotoxicriskto69femalehairdressersexposeddailytochemical
substancessuchashairdyes,wavingandstraighteningpreparationsandmanicurists'productsbythe
Cometassaytest(singlecellgelelectrophoresis)ThehairdressersshowedahigherfrequencyofDNA
damagethatcouldbeassociatedwiththehairdressers'occupationalenvironment,wheredifferent
chemicalsarechronicallymanipulatedandinhaled.Consideringthatthisprofessioninmanycountries,
includingBrazil,isnotofficiallyregulated,itisnotdiscardedthattheuseofBKTmayhavesome
influenceinthedataofthiswork.[55]

AstudyofManelietal.concludedthatformaldehydeconcentrationsinBKTproductsmayexceed
recommendedlevelsandserveasahealthhazard.Industrymonitoringisneededtoimprovecompliance
andprotectionofhairdressersandconsumers.[59]

HAIRCOSMETICSREACTION
Reactionstocosmeticingredientsindecreasingorderoffrequencyare:Fragrances,haircoloringagents
(pphenylenediamine)preservatives:Formaldehyde,parabens,quaternium15(aformaldehydedonor)
imidazolidinylureaDMDMhydantoin.Mostofthecasesarecausedbyleavingonproducts.Shortcontact
cosmeticsusuallydonotcauseirritationorallergy.[72]VanLerbergheandBaeckdescribedanacute
oozingeczemaofthescalp,forehead,andneck,andimportantedemaoftheeyelidsThepatienthad
performedahairsmoothingtreatmentthedaybefore,usingaproduct(INOARMoroccanHairTreatment
containingformaldehydethathadbeenboughtinMoroccobyherhairdresser.Thepatchtestwaspositive
toformaldehydeandnonformaldehydeingredients(++).[73]

HENNA
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HENNA
RedhennaisthedriedandpowderedleafofLawsoniainermis.Hennahasbeenusedasadyefortheskin,
hairandnails.Theusageofredhennahasafewreportsofallergiccontactdermatitiscausedbyitand/or
itsactiveingredientlawsone(2hydroxy1,4naphthoquinone,CI75480,NaturalOrange6).TypeIallergy
israre,andismainlyanoccupationalhazardinhairdressers(sneezing,conjunctivitis,runningnose,dry
cough,dyspnoea,swellingoftheface,orgeneralizedurticaria).LawsoneisapotentoxidantofG6PD
deficientcellstopicalapplicationofhennamaythereforecausealifethreateninghaemolysisinchildren
withG6PDdeficiency.[74]

HAIRDYES
Therearemanytypesofhairdyesclassifiedaccordingtothepenetrationofthedyetothesurfaceorto
deeppartsofthehairshaft.Inthischapter,wewillapproachthetwomostusedtypesofhairdyes:Demi
permanentandpermanentdyes.

Themaindifferencebetweenthedyesaretheircapacitytoreachthecortexandstaythereinapermanent
wayortonotreachthecortexandstayshallowonthecuticlesurfaceandbewashableafterabout1015
shampoos.Thosearethedemipermanentdyes.Toovercomethecuticleandreachthecortex,theproduct
musthaveanalkalinepHabletoopenthescales.Mostofthetimesthepermanentdyesuseammoniato
increasethepH.Someproductsarereferredtobeammoniafree,butinstead,theycarryethanolaminewith
thepurpose.Bothsubstancesremovethenaturalcuticlelipid,the18metileicosanoicacid,whichconfers
hidrofobicitytothefiber.Theuseofpermanentdyesmaycausecuticledamagebyremovingthe18MEA
andmakingthehairhidrophylic.

Permanenthaircolorsarethemostcommonlyusedhaircolors,becauseoftheirlongevity,andabilityto
lightentheoriginaldarkercolor.Thesearealsosuperiorforgrayorwhitecover.Thepigmentationis
permanentandthewhitehairthatshowsafter1015daysaftertheapplicationisnotduetoremovalofthe
dyebyshampoobut,instead,itisduetonewhairgrowth.Thepermanentdyeingisanoxidationreaction
thatallowsthepigmentstogetinsidethecortex.Thepigmentsare:Paraphenylenediamine,para
toluenediamine,andparaaminophenol,andparaaminophenol,knownastheprimaryintermediaries)with
hydrogenperoxidetoliberateoxygen.Andtheyalsocontainresorcinol,butthissubstanceisgradually
beingremovedfromtheingredientsinsomemarkets,forsafetyreasons.Onceinsidethecortex,they
combinewithanilinedyes,toproducetherequiredcolormolecules.Therootsneedtobetouchupafter
1530daysandtheproductmustbeappliedonlytothenewgrowth.

Demipermanentdyesdonotcontainammoniaorethanolamineandforthisreasonaregentleronthehair
thanthepermanentcolors.Theyalsocontainhydrogenperoxide,resorcinolandparadyes.The
concentrationofhydrogenperoxideislower(2%)ascomparedtopermanenthairdyes(6%).Theyarenot
aseffectiveincoveringgrayorwhitehairbecausetheyonlyreachthecuticle.Theydonotlightenthehair
shade.Sometimesareusedasproductstoaddshineandtoturnthenaturalhaircolorintoamorevibrate
one.Demipermanenthaircolorfadeawayafter1015shampoos,orevenearlier.[1,5,6,12,17,18,74,75,76]

HAIRSTRAIGHTENINGANDHAIRDYES
Chemicalhairstraightenersarehighlyalkaline.Forthisreason,changingthecolorofachemically
straightenedhair,eitherwithhydroxidesorwiththioglycolate,isadelicateprocedurethatmaycausehair
damageandbreakage.Therefore,thedemipermanenthairdyesareindicatedinsteadofthepermanent
ones.Thelackofammoniaorethanolamineisresponsibleforamoregentleactionwithoutopeningthe
cuticlescalesandrespectingthefiberintegrity.Isit,howeverindicatedtowait15daysafterthe
straighteningtodyethehairwithdemipermanentdyes.Highlightsorlightshadesareabsolutely
incompatiblewithchemicalrelaxers.Theircombinedusecanleadtohairshaftbreakage.

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Chemicallytreatedhairishighlysensitiveandpronetobreakage.Althoughthedermatologypractice
involvestheuseofantidandruffandantipsoriasisshampoosandlotionscontaininghairdamaging
ingredients,aswellasminoxidilandotherhairsolutions,itisdifficulttoavoidhairweatheringdueto
chemicalprocedurescombinedwithhairmedicaltreatments.Theuseofhairconditionersisindeed
necessarytominimizefrictionandfrizzcausedbydermatologicalprescribeddrugs.Choosingtheright
ingredientsisabsolutelyrelatedtoachievethepatient'sfullcompliance.Understandingthedifference
betweenthesurfactantsaswellasthemodeofactionofconditioningagents,ifonthecuticleorinthe
cortex,willhelpchoosewhetherlubrication,strength,bodymass,volumeorsleeknessisdesired.Excess
ofresiduesisamatterofgreatinterestduetofrequentusageofleaveonproductsbyAfricandescendentor
Hispanicdescendentpatients,especiallywithlongerhair.Removingtheresidueswithoutstrippingthe
fiberispossibleiftheantiresidueshampoo(laurethammoniumsulfate)isfollowedbytheapplicationofa
thickmoisturizinghairmaskpreferablycontaininghydrolyzedaminoacids,siliconesandvegetableoils.
Mineraloilismostlysubstitutedbyfilmformingsilicones,butmaystillbeusedcombinedtoother
cationicingredients.Theantiresidueshampoomaybeusedeach10shampoos,orevenmorefrequently,
dependingontheneed.Extremelyhighlightedhairisthemostsensibletoantiresidueformulations.Inthis
typeofhair,itmaybeusedlessfrequentlyornotatall.

SAFETYOFHAIRDYES
Epidemiologicallyandhumanmonitoringstudieshavenotdetectedanyriskofcarcinogenityofthe
ingredientsusednowadays.Contactdermatitisisthemainreaction.Turatietal.metaanalysisdefinitively
excludedanyappreciableexcessriskofbladdercanceramongpersonalhairdyeusers.[77]Although
paraphenylenediamineisacommonallergen,resorcinolandmaminophenolwerefoundmorefrequently
intheworkofHamannetal.[78]Althoughmanystudieshavetriedtofindsomelinkagebetweenhairdyes
ingredientsandcancerhazard,thereisnoconclusivestudyconfirmingthishypothesis.[79]

Footnotes
SourceofSupport:Nil

ConflictofInterest:Nonedeclared.

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FiguresandTables

Table1

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Classificationofthesurfactants

ArticlesfromInternationalJournalofTrichologyareprovidedherecourtesyofMedknowPublications

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