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Mountaineer

August, 2009 The


Volume 103, No. 8
The monthly publication of The Mountaineers

M2 Seeding the
environmental field
w w w. m o u n t a i n e e r s . o r g
with scientists

M8 A youth group
Rainier safety
revival afoot program earns
M4 Summit Savvy national praise
M4 Conservation Currents Mountaineers
accident data put
M6 Gear Grist
to use in seminar
M7 Passages By Brad Stracener
“You can’t have zero risk in the
M7 Off the Shelf mountains, but you can reduce
Brian Lewis photo the risks by being smart.”
—Ed Viesturs, forward to “The Zen
of Mountains and Climbing”

B
y applying their smarts, as
gleaned from past experi-
ences, partners in a safety
program at Mt. Rainier have re-
cently received national recognition
for their success in reducing the
chances of tragedy on the moun-
tain. The past experience used as
their teaching tool, though, is not
always their own.
Ben McAllister photo
In fact, one experience in par-
Are you burning for answers about ticular—perhaps the most tragic Conservation via ‘ground-truthing’
Mountaineers Public Policy Associate Leesa Wright ascends the trail to
stoves? See Gear Grist on M6. incident to befall The Mountaineers
Chiwaukum and Larch Lakes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area. This
fraternity in its history—was not summer The Mountaineers and others in a coalition of wilderness advocates
Discover The Mountaineers shared by any of the initiators of are leading “ground-truthing” hikes, such as the one above, into wilderness
If you are thinking of joining the safety program, but served as areas of the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. The hiking teams are
- or have joined and aren’t sure looking for signs of possible incursion by motorized vehicles. For more about
the impetus for the program itself.
the effort and attaining the list of hikes, see the article on M8.
where to start - why not attend Continued on M5
an information meeting?
Check the Go Guide branch
sections for times and locations.
Women alpinists hastened era of equality
Are you ready to jump right in? Editor’s note: This is the final of a two- Wood. The prospectus also clearly pennant to the flag post—a feat
Visit www.mountaineers.org. part article on the influence of women defined the protocol for the attire that was replicated by other women
No computer? See pg. 22. climbers, some Mountaineers, on the of what proved to be the gender advocates on following climbs.
women’s suffrage movement of the majority in The Mountaineers and The evolution of attire
Need to call? 206-521-6000.
early 20th century. on the outing—women. This dress The Mountaineers charged each
protocol would later be challenged

T
participant in the 1909 climb a fee
POSTAGE PAID AT

By Shanna Stevenson
by women climbers.
SEATTLE, WA
PERIODICAL

he Mountaineers’ 1909 as- of $40. For this, climbers were


cent of Mt. Rainier was more Moreover, in tandem with the AYPE provided with a commissary outfit
than a club achievement; it flag, the 1909 outing afforded that included provisions—stoves,
served as a bellwether for women’s one of the women on the climb cooking utensils, general assembly
rights nationally, while crowning to attach a women’s-right-to-vote Continued on M3

Upcoming
a regional exposition that drew
national attention.
The club’s third annual outing,
organized by noted photographer
and Mountaineers founding mem- August is for Junior Mountain-
ber Asahel Curtis, followed its eers! Families can find a host of
Olympics outing in 1907 to the top summer outdoor activities while
of Olympus and the 1908 outing to snagging a prize for their effort.
the eastern side of Mt. Baker. See pg. 9 of the Go Guide for de-
The prospectus for the climb de- tails about this new program.
picted it as a cooperative venture ✔
with the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Meany Lodge Weekend: Hike
7700 Sand Point Way N.E.

Exposition (AYPE), which had your hearts out! See pg. 15 of the
begun two months earlier and was Go Guide.
compared in stature to the om- The Players’ summer production,
Seattle, WA 98115


The Mountaineers

nipresent mountain. Indeed, the Owls & Woodpeckers: Join au- “High Button Shoes,” kicks off Aug.
AYPE flag was planted atop Rainier thor Paul Bannick for a fundraising 1 for a run of four consecutive
by Curtis and his throng at the event at Mountaineers headquar- weekends. See pg. 2 of the Go
behest of AYPE Director James A. ers. See the ad on M7 for details. Guide for more details.
August 2009 The Mountaineer
The

Mountaineer
Also see us on the web at www.mountaineers.org
Purposes and mission
The club’s mission:
To enrich the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about and
The Mountaineers is a nonprofit Managing Editor
enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest.
organization, founded in 1906 Brad Stracener
and dedicated to the responsible Contributors, proofreaders: Barb The club’s charter lists its purposes as follows:
enjoyment and protection of natural Butler, John Edwards, Brian Futch, —To explore and study the mountains, forests and other water courses of
areas. Jim Harvey, Dyche Kinder, Nancy
the Northwest and beyond.
Board of Trustees Neyenhouse, Susan Pavlansky, Suzan
Officers Reiley, Brooke Spicher —To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of these regions
President Eric Linxweiler, 08-10 Photographers & Illustrators: Brian and explorations.
President Elect Tab Wilkins, 08-10 Lewis, Gala Lindvall, Ben McAllister
Past President Bill Deters, 08-09 —To preserve by example, teaching and the encouragement of protective
VP Properties Dave Claar, 08-10 THE MOUNTAINEER is published legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of the natural environment.
VP Publishing Don Heck, 08-10 monthly by: The Mountaineers,
7700 Sand Point Way N.E. Seattle, WA —To make expeditions and provide educational opportunities in fulfillment
Treasurer Mike Dean, 08-10
Secretary Steve Sears, 08-10 98115; Ph. 206-521-6000; fax 206-523- of the above purposes.
6763
Trustees at large —To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life.
Volume 103, No. 8
Kirk Alm, 07-10
The Mountaineer (ISSN 0027-2620) ­—To hold real estate and personal property and to receive, hire, purchase,
Rich Draves, 08-11
is published monthly by The Moun- occupy, and maintain and manage suitable buildings and quarters for
Dale Flynn, 07-10
taineers, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E.,
Ed Henderson, 08-11 the furtherance of the purposes of the association, and to hold in trust or
Seattle, WA 98115.
Lynn Hyde, 08-11
Members receive a subscription as part otherwise funds, received by bequest or gift or otherwise, to be devoted to
Don Schaechtel, 06-09
of their annual dues. Approximately the purposes of said association.
Eva Schönleitner, 06-09
$12.42 of each member’s annual
Dave Shema, 07-10
membership dues is spent to print and
Mona West, 06-09
mail this publication. Non-member
Branch Trustees subscriptions to The Mountaineer are
Bellingham, Steven Glenn
Everett, Rob Simonsen
$32. Periodicals postage paid at Seat- Who ya gonna call? Your mentor, of course
tle WA.
Foothills, Gerry Haugen Are you a new member wondering about the how-to, where-to and what-to-do
Postmaster: send address changes
Kitsap, Jimmy James to The Mountaineer, 7700 Sand Point with your club? There are a number of resources available to you, not the least
Olympia, John Flanagan Way N.E., Seattle, WA 98115. our websites. Now there is also a real, live person. If you want to know about
Seattle, Mike Maude Opinions expressed in articles are expected conditioning for a hike, what not to wear, how to sign up for events or
Tacoma, Tom Shimko those of the authors and do not nec- whatever call or e-mail the “mentor of the month.” Mona West is this month’s
Interim Executive Director essarily represent the views of The mentor. Feel free to contact her at west_mona@yahoo.com with your questions
Mona West Mountaineers.
or comments.

Foundation grant seeds the field with citizen scientists


T
he Mountaineers Founda- slow the spread of the invasive
tion has been an ardent vegetation.
supporter of organizations Students spent an entire semester
that bring educational projects learning how to use a GPS/GIS
to its grant-proposal table. The ArcView unit and then applied
foundation’s mission to promote for summer jobs with the county
the study, protection and enjoy- to map the infestation of spotted
ment of natural areas is particularly knapweed. The effort included
suited to two recent projects. monitoring and caring for insec-
In 2007, the McCall Outdoor Sci- taries, where root-boring weevils
ence School in Idaho asked the were raised and then released into
foundation to approve its proposal the knapweed-infested areas. Stu-
to partner with the McCall-Donnelly dents visited sites identified over
High School environmental science the past several years, collected
class. The ultimate goal was to data from those sites, and identi-
empower high school students as Citizen scientists: McCall, Idaho, science students collect Payette aquatic data. fied new sites for bio-control agent
citizen scientists to effect change Students were given an introduc- Results of the research project in- releases.
in their community. How could the tion to watershed science at the dicated a decrease in water clarity They also completed a progress
foundation resist? local Payette River, within walking and an increase in dissolved, solid report for community education
Both a new housing development distance of the classroom. They load. The results were reported at on the success of the bio-control
and a golf course are located then spent five months collecting the public forum, but a discussion agent program. Students discov-
upstream from Shiner Creek. As chemical and aquatic insect data also ensued on potential causes ereda that a slowing of the spread
a delta formed at the mouth of the from Shiner Creek to be compared and possible next steps. Once the of knapweed was evident on sites
creek, the local water advisory and analyzed ins respect to water forum presentation was over, one that received weevils a year ago,
board chair became concerned. quality. student said, “We really did it, and and other plant life was returning
He brought those concerns to the They presented their findings at they cared what we had to say.” to the area. The report will be used
McCall Outdoor Science School for the school science fair, and also The Townsend School District of to continue the placement of these
further examination. in a public forum that included the Townsend, Montana, applied for a bio-control agents during the sum-
The science school staff collaborat- largest public landowner on Shiner Mountaineers Foundation grant in mer and fall of 2009.
ed with the McCall-Donnelly High Creek, city government officials, 2008. The funds helped to support
Help The Mountaineers Foundation
School environmental science pro- the watershed advisory board, local a continuing high school program
sustain its vision of “passing the
gram to create a high school project press and community members. that partners with the local county’s
best possible environmental legacy
that would not only address issues Students took the lead, from col- weed district. The project identified
to ensuing generations.” Visit www.
in Shiner Creek, but also teach lection and analysis of data to the areas for mapping of an invasive
mountaineersfoundation.org for
students the principles of using a dissemination of the results to the plant species, spotted knapweed,
granting information, guidelines
scientific method through a commu- community, thus empowering them- and the addition of a bio-control
and an application.
nity-based and hands-on study. selves as citizen scientists. agent, the root-boring weevil, to

M
The Mountaineer August 2009
Mountaineering attire reflected women’s changing role
Continued from M1 taineers but there were delegates
tents and enough auxiliary tents to from the Appalachian Club of
shelter the group in an emergency. Boston; Katherine Reed was from
The fee also included cooks, dish- Washington, D. C.; and Freda San-
washers, pack-train and packers, ford was from Connecticut. One of
and round-trip rail fare to Fairfax the expedition members was from

Washington State Historical Society photo


from downtown Seattle. the Austrian Alpine Club.
Individuals were required to provide After their arrival, some of the party
their own climbing outfit, including built a trail across Carbon Glacier
clothing and bedding. Women were and a horse pack-train went to
directed to provide a short skirt, Moraine Park on the east side of
not below the knee, and bloomers, Carbon Glacier where the outing
as well as “heavy veils to protect directors established a permanent
the face from burning when on the camp that they dubbed, “Camp Mo- This Asahel Curtis photo captures the Rainier summit group at dinner in camp.
snow.” Additionally, participants had raine.” Advance parties tried vari-
to apply to the climb leader, Curtis, ous hikes and were later joined by Pfaff said he was with five other first allied with fellow Spokane
to participate in the event. 62 (out of a first group of 77, some climbers at the summit on Aug. 6 suffragist May Arkwright Hutton.
Dress for mountaineering women of whom turned back) hikers who and did not see the AYPE flag or Later, however, Baker’s insistence
reflected their changing role, camped between Inter Glacier and the “Votes for Women” pennant. He on employing suffrage campaigns
though women were to forge even main White Glacier on a volcanic also didn’t see the climbers’ names of a higher public profile, like those
more changes in mountaineer- ash area. They used rocks in their in the summit registry. she had witnessed in England, irked
ing attire by the 1930s. Confin- sleeping bags to keep from rolling Curtis countered Pfaff’s allegation Hutton. Baker disappeared from
ing corsets could exert as much down the mountain. by noting the summit group could the Washington scene in 1910 but
as 70 pounds of pressure on a Life in the camp featured such not find the Paradise Valley Club was shown campaigning in Portland
hiker’s chest while long skirts could diversions as raising the AYPE flag, registry that Pfaff cited and instead during the 1912 Oregon suffrage
dangerously be caught on rocks foot races, tug-of-war contests, a inscribed their names in another campaign when she wrote her book,
or other structures. The weight “fatman race,” shoe-lacing contests book. Furthermore, Curtis retorted “Race Improvement or Eugenics; A
of traditional clothing restricted and a lemon contest. By July 30, that the 45-mile-an-hour gale pre- Little Book on a Great Subject.”
women’s movements, thus imped- the climbers started their climb cluded the banners from flying and Eaton atop Glacier
ing the skills necessary to climb. to the summit of Rainier along were, therefore, placed inside the Dr. Eaton continued her mountain-
One author noted that skirts with the White Glacier. After an eight- crater. eering exploits as well. During the
bloomers underneath made of wool and-one-half hour climb of the Suffragist-climbers aplenty 1910 annual Mountaineers outing,
could weigh up to 15 pounds dry, northeastern side of Rainier, they The bloomer-clad Holmes of the Votes for Women, a suffrage news-
let alone wet. reached the summit in a gale. The 19th century, Dr. Eaton and the paper of the time, reported:
Women often wore skirts at lower Seattle Times noted that the party other women of the 1909 Rainier “In their annual outing, Dr. Cora
altitudes and discarded them once of 62 (Dr. Eaton counted 63) was outing were not the only mountain- Smith Eaton wrote ‘Votes for
they attained higher elevations the largest to ever reach Rainier’s eering suffragists. Spokane suf- Women’ after her name in the
on the climb. “Slipping on and off” summit. It reported that some of fragist, LaReine Helen McKenzie record box, which reposes in a
became the norm. Others simply the men had to be “revived with Baker, planted “Votes for Women” cairn of rock at the summit of
hiked up their skirts and secured snow” but that none of the women flags on several peaks. Baker, Glacier Peak, an elevation of
them with a ribbon. By the 1930s, gave out. described as “one of the wealthi- 10,436 feet. This splendid peak
women were finally free of these It was one of the very first times the est women in the West and the is very inaccessible and this is
impositions on climbing attire, but route had been tried and the first largest taxpayer in Washington,” the first time in its history that a
until then, the bloomer costume time women had taken it. was married to Albert Baker, owner white woman has set foot upon
was often associated with the Summit fanfare of the Last Chance lead mine in its glistening glaciers and snow
women’s rights movement. Women At the summit, Curtis—suffering Northport, Stevens County. She fields.”
advocated dress reform during the from a broken collarbone incurred had traveled to Europe and was a There were 25 women and 32 men
first Woman’s Rights Convention at at a baseball game at Camp delegate to the International Suf- that scaled the peak on Aug. 5.
Seneca Falls in 1848. One of the Moraine—unfurled the AYPE flag frage Alliance Convention in 1909
International thread
first women to wear bloomers for while being accompanied by bugler with the Kangley sisters who had
Two famous international women
mountaineering was Julia Archibald F. Ormond Morrill. The Times attempted a 1908 climb of Rainier.
climbers immortalized the tradition
Holmes who wore what was oth- reported, “As a finale to the brief Baker said she wanted to plant of planting “Votes for Women” flags
erwise known as the “American ceremony, Dr. Eaton attached a “Votes for Women” flags—in yellow, and similar materials on mountain-
Costume” when she became the pennant to the flagstaff bearing the a traditional suffrage color—atop tops. In 1911, Annie Smith Peck,
first woman to climb Pike’s Peak in words, ‘Votes for Women.’” both Pikes Peak and Mt. Rainier. who had scaled several peaks in
Colorado in 1858. She climbed Rainier on Aug. 27,
Curtis said that the flagstaff broke South America, planted a yellow
A feminist, Holmes had come west and “Maj. Ingram (sic) brought 1909, via the route from Longmire banner reading “Votes for Women
wearing bloomers and was chafed another staff and set it firmly in Springs to Gibraltar Rock. ”I never of the Joan of Arc Suffrage League”
at restrictions imposed by men. the rocks at the crater,” for neither lost sight of the fact that I was on the summit of Nevado Coro-
In photos of the 1909 Mt. Rainier the AYPE or suffrage flags could going to plant the little flag on the puna, a 21,000-foot peak in Peru.
expedition, it appears that women withstand the wind at the summit. topmost peak,” she stated. Likewise, Fanny Bullock Workman
wore skirts in camp but shed them After its ascent the party stayed on The flag Baker planted atop Pike’s had a photograph taken of herself
in favor of bloomers for climbing— the mountain another week, hiking Peak in November, 1909 was given reading a paper entitled, “Votes
per instructions in the “Washington to Spray Park and other destina- to her by Alva E. Belmont of New for Woman,” when she was atop
Women’s Cook Book,” as written tions accessible from camp. They York, with whom she attended the Karakorum of the Himalayan range
by the woman who posted the returned to Seattle by a special train International Convention of Women in 1910 or 1911.
suffrage pennant atop Rainier, Dr. from Fairfax on Aug. 7, and were in London in 1909. Baker an- Whether the feats of these two
Cora Smith Eaton. greeted by a large crowd. nounced plans to climb California’s women helped the cause of
The climb As part of the climb, a four-inch mir- Mt. Shasta in February of 1910 women’s suffrage in Washington
The Mountaineers group left ror was used to flash a message to and she climbed to California’s Mt. or nationally is unknown, but the
Seattle on July 17 by train and ar- Signal Corps men stationed on the Lowe Observatory in April of 1910. accomplishments of women alpin-
rived at Fairfax, near present-day AYPE grounds. However, only an M Besides being a daring moun- ists of that time were certainly part
Carbonado, then hiked to the first and W were discernible. taineer and suffragist, Baker also of the effort to take women into a
camp on the Carbon River trail, a advocated for limiting the size of new era of activism and equality
Though historic, the party’s feat
distance of 11 miles. There were families and for eugenics. She was with men, according to author M.
was challenged when W. C. Pfaff
some 93 people in camp. Most of active in the 1909-10 Washington Deborah Bialeschki. A professor at
of the Mt. Rainier Club claimed the
the climbers were from The Moun- women’s suffrage campaign, at
group had not reached the summit. Continued on M6
M
August 2009 The Mountaineer

Summit Savvy
■ Send your photographs (or slides)
Can you identify the summit in for possible publication as a mystery
the foreground here? Send your answer summit (include identification for our
(by Aug. 10) to: Summit Savvy, The benefit). If we use your photo, you
Mountaineer, 7700 Sand Point Way will get $10 of Mountaineers Money
N.E., Seattle, WA 98115. If you guess as well.
correctly, you’ll receive $10 of Moun-
■ At the end of each year, all correct
taineers Money, good for Mountaineers
respondents’ names are placed in a
Bookstore merchandise, and we’ll
hat and the winner of that drawing will
publish your name in next month’s
receive $50 of Mountaineers Money
column. (In case of a tie, one winner will
good for purchases at The Moun-
be chosen at random.) Club employees
taineers Bookstore.
or persons shown in the photograph are

not eligible. Each month we’ll publish a


■ No one correctly guessed last

new mystery summit and identification


month’s mystery summit, Mt. De-

of the previous one.


ception, as photographed by Curt
Baxstrom.

conservation
only modest results. Sometimes, ment of new populations while
however, significant success is increasing the numbers in pre-exist-
achieved after only a few years of ing populations.

CURRENTS
implementing recovery strategies. In other efforts of recovery by
According to the WDFW, recovery the state, the picture is mixed or
strategies include monitoring and even bleak. The northern spotted
protecting known populations of a owl was federally listed in 1990.

State listing of endangered species and may include popula-


tion management practices, such
Despite massive expenditures and
efforts to restore its population, it

species: hits and misses as reintroductions or augmenta-


tion of existing populations. Some
continues to steeply decline. Its
numbers inside Washington have
methods entail the moving of a been halved since its listing. Federal
Editor’s note: This is the second of Mercifully, the high levels of political
a series of articles examining species particular population of a species officials have described the species
meddling that have plagued imple-
recovery in the Northwest as it relates to another part of the state, while as on life support with the plug in
mentation of the federal ESA have
to the Endangered Species Act. some involve augmenting or es- the wall sticking halfway out.
proved nearly non-existent here.
tablishing populations from outside The leopard frog is nearly extinct
By Dyche Kinder Examples of state efforts

I
the state borders. Other methods in Eastern Washington. Habitat
f protecting endangered or The Washington Department of may include captive breeding of a manipulation, captive breeding and
threatened species is viewed Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) has listed spe- reintroduction are currently being
as a battlefield, the state govern- adopted approaches in policy, such cies and then examined to stem a decline that no
ment could accurately be called the as the Comprehensive Wildlife reintroducing one has yet been able to abate.
frontline. If it fails to protect a spe- Conservation Strategy that aims to it to its healthy
cies, then the federal government keep common species just that— Meanwhile, the Oregon spotted
habitat.
takes command. common. However, deleterious frog recovery program of rearing
factors, such as habitat destruction The most pro- wild eggs from the wild is sur-
Dramatic battles over the future
as with the spotted owl or hunting lific success prisingly successful but, like the
of species listed under the federal
in relation to the sea otter or fisher, with recov- leopard frog, it is suffering from the
Endangered Species Act (ESA)—
make listing by the state unavoid- ery so far in disappearance of suitable wetland
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service photo

those that breach the state’s front-


able. Recovery efforts for those Washington habitat.
line, such as the northern spotted
species are then developed and has been the
owl or snail darter—can shift the The Oregon silverspot butterfly
implemented by the state. reintroduction
public’s attention from the critical is extinct in Washington. Habitat
of the fisher to
role state agencies must play in Washington’s listing provisions are restoration has proven difficult and
the Olympic
protecting species to the immense- similar to those of the ESA. A state takes many years.
Peninsula.
ly complicated arena of federal listing triggers a process that cul- Pacific fisher It started in A captive breeding program begun
protection via the ESA. minates in attempts to recover the January of 2008 at five sites in the from 14 wild pygmy rabbits has
Suites of species are being re- listed species. The state’s study, proven unsuccessful to reintroduce
Olympic National Park with the
duced in numbers and distribution data and analysis can prove useful that species in Washington. Trans-
release of 49 animals from Can-
in Washington as habitats such to federal authorities in making location from outside the state may
ada. Another 45 are planned for
as prairies, coastal dunes, shrub their decisions on a federal listing. be considered next. The captive
augmentation this fall and winter.
steppe, oak woodlands, forested Examples of this in the Northwest population has already been inter-
WDFW is pleased with the survival
habitat, wetland and marine sys- include the orca or killer whale, the crossed with rabbits from Idaho to
rate: only 14 have died. It is not
tems are being lost, fragmented spotted owl and the pygmy rabbit. help overcome genetic problems in
as pleased with the reproduction
and degraded. To date, 28 species are listed rate, though there have been two the captive-bred population.
Other factors, such as disease, by the state as endangered, 10 verified cases of reproduction and Efforts to augment the Selkirk
non-indigenous predators and threatened and 8 sensitive. Simi- three suspected cases. The fish- Mountains woodland caribou in
competitors, toxic contamination lar to the federal ESA, the state ers have dispersed over a broad an ecosystem that stretches from
and human-caused mortality can declares a list of candidate species range as far away as Neah Bay to the Canadian province of British
decimate a species. In other cases, which currently numbers 113. So, the north and Ocean Shores to the Columbia to Washington and Idaho
so little may be known about a spe- with roughly 150 species to worry south. has prevented extinction of a very
cies that factors causing declines about, the state’s wildlife officials small existing population, but has
The western pond turtle is another
may take years to determine. are charged with much to do with not resulted in large population
example of success in Washington.
limited resources. Therefore, it increases. Continuation of this ef-
A variety of factors determine The WDFW reports that “headstart-
enters into partnerships with many fort is on hold, however, because
whether states succeed or fail in ing” and “overwintering” young
other entities, governmental and pri- of difficulties with transplanting
meeting their objectives of manag- hatchlings to a size large enough to
vate, whose help can prove critical. these caribou in British Columbia,
ing healthy populations of animals. escape bullfrog predation is “show-
Washington State has succeeded In most cases, it takes a long ing good results” once the turtles according to the WDFW.
in varying degrees with its efforts to time for species to become en- are reintroduced. Efforts to help the Dyche Kinder is the fish and wildlife
protect species it has listed as sen- dangered and usually decades to pond turtle date back to the 1980s representative for The Mountain-
sitive, threatened or endangered. achieve recovery, sometimes with and have resulted in the establish- eers Conservation Division.

M
The Mountaineer August 2009
Serious accidents down since initiation of safety education
“In the three years since the program started,” noted Gauthier, who now
works for the park service in Washington, D.C., “the accident rate dropped
drastically, as did the fatalities.” There has not been a climbing fatality on
Rainier since 2005. The climbing search-and-rescue rate decreased by
more than 50 percent from 2006-08. Injury rates decreased by more than
65 percent during the same period.

A ccording to Gauthier, Mt. Rainier National Park’s partnership with par-


ties outside of the park, including The Mountaineers, was part of the
reason the park service presented the Rainier program with the Andrew
Clark Hecht Public Safety Achievement Award, the park service’s highest
honor for public safety. Noted climbing guides Eric Simonson and Paul
Baugher helped The Mountaineers with the investigation and suggestions
regarding Sharkfin, as did Tacoma Mountain Rescue. The cadre of climb-
ing rangers under Gauthier’s helm assisted as well with the education
program.
Gauthier also credits an increase in electronic reporting for the decline in
tragedies on the mountain. “Three years ago, we lost our website (at the
park),” Gauthier stated, “so I started my own interim blog just on climb-
ing issues. It ended up being a superior medium to communicate. At
first people just started giving climbing reports on it. People then started
communicating things like, ‘have you heard about that crevasse at 16,000
feet?’ It just skyrocketed from there.”
Tacoma Mountaineers Mindy Roberts and Jim Feltus pose with the public safety He added, “Even people outside the climbing community started using it.
achievement award, granted by the National Park Service. I started giving safety messages on it and started to see a decline in my
Continued from M1 budget on the amount of money being spent on rescues.”
In 2005, three experienced alpinists and members of The Mountaineers He would like to see the safety curriculum at Rainier implemented as a
died on a climb of Sharkfin Tower. Among the group was a longtime Ta- model for mountaineering courses in other institutions, such as community
coma Branch member and climb leader, a leader from the Seattle Branch colleges.
and a mentored leader. They died from a rock fall and what proved to be a
Lauren concurs. “We’d like to replicate it,” he said, “but each branch and
faulty belay. However, as one of the Rainier safety program’s founders puts
group is distinct.” So some tailoring is needed, he indicated. Backcountry
it, “It was the type of accident, which so many are, in which the reason for
skiing and kayaking first come to mind, he said. “They can use these real-
it was not just technical knowledge or a fatal flaw in an anchor, but a series
life scenarios and reports from their respective committees to customize
of decisions.”
their own program from the original climbing model.” He noted that one or
It is through the assiduous work of The Mountaineers Climbing Safety two leaders from these activities actually attended the Rainier seminar.
Committee that the Rainier group was able to benefit from the unraveling of
Lauren credits the increase in “near-miss” reports for bolstering awareness
an outing on Sharkfin that shook the club’s climbing community. The Safety
about accident prevention.
Committee, as it is charged to do, presents reports on all serious accidents
that occur during club-sponsored climbs. It interviews those in the party Initiators of the Rainier accident-prevention class, held at the Tacoma
who survive the accident, it documents the interviews, reads the accident Branch Clubhouse, all agree that it is the widely-shared information from
reports and pores over all other input it can glean. It then issues sugges- those who either make the mistakes or witness them that make the school
tions on how the accident possibly could have been avoided. successful. At first the curriculum focused on snow travel and self-arrest on

T
falls, Lauren noted, but the focus shifts as the program evolves.
he Sharkfin report tells a tale of decisions made, noted Mindy Roberts,
an avid climb leader for The Mountaineers and former chair of the Ta- “It seems that now it is shifting to party separation,” he noted, those
coma Branch Climbing Committee. “Decisions made in emergency condi- incidents when a participant on a hike or climb becomes separated from
tions,” she added. The first decision was to move the victim of a rock fall the group. He said the near-miss reports will become extremely critical
from one location on the slope to another. The next decision was to belay in resolving the party separation dilemma, a topic to be examined in next
her in order to bring her down the slope. Underlying both decisions was a month’s Mountaineer.
route-finding decision by two leaders that proved to be in error and integral Brad Stracener is managing editor of The Mountaineer.
to the dislodging of a rock that created the emergency.
According to Roberts and Mountaineers Safety Committee Chair Dan
Lauren, the Sharkfin incident, as tragic as it was, is one that serves well in
terms of understanding how a chain of decisions can lead to fatal results—
what Roberts calls “the human factors.” These are factors that can surface
even among the most experienced and adroit climbers, such as those who
fell victim at Sharkfin.
But one report does not make a curriculum. Roberts, Lauren and then-chief
climbing ranger at Rainier, Mike Gauthier, tapped a number of accident re-
ports from The Mountaineers committee as well as reports on near misses,
incidents that the committee only began examining a couple of years ago.
“We can see patterns in these reports,” noted Roberts, who was recently
awarded by the U.S. Department of Interior for her work on accident pre-
vention at Rainier. The patterns are not just related to decisions. The abdi-
cation of expertise is a common culprit. “Some members of a team may be
more experienced or a member of the club longer than others. They may
talk more than the others—the less experienced who assume that the one
doing most of the talking knows more than they do.”
She noted that everyone brings a little of their own expertise to a team but
unfortunately not all of the expertise reaches the communication stage of
the decision-making process.
“To prevent tragedies we must recognize when we begin to fall into these
patterns,” stated Roberts, who remembered cancelling her Ptarmigan Tra-
verse trip when hearing about the shocking news at Sharkfin.
With a doctorate in engineering, Roberts is used to methodically examin-
ing conditions over a long period of time, and “stakes are high, so there are
parallels between my work and climbing.” This proclivity is likely instrumen-
tal to her success in teaching the accident prevention program.

M
August 009 The Mountaineer

Gear Grist
How low can your stove-weight go?
By Brian Lewis supply, the alcohol option can start can find more information about site in the form of twigs, branches,

I f you want to keep your pack


weight low, one area to consider
is your overall backcountry kitch-
out heavier (less efficient fuel). At
some point in the journey you hit a
break-even point, and the alcohol-
these and other referenced stove
options via an internet search.
or dry leaves (please don’t cut live
trees for fuel). It’s more efficient
and uses a lot less fuel than mak-
Another possibility for the “keep-it-
en—stove, pot, etc. The weight- stove user will have the lighter load light” user is an Esbit solid (tablet) ing a traditional campfire, yet offers
conscious backpacker often sticks for the rest of the trip. For shorter fuel stove. Like alcohol, Esbit is a some of the smoke smell, fire light,
to simpler evening meals, most trips of a few days or less, the alco- less efficient fuel (lower heat output and “old time feel” of a campfire.
typically meals that require only the hol stove option will be lighter from per fuel weight) and its use is A significant factor in using this
addition of hot water. the start, depending on how much generally limited to heating water. relatively new option is whether
Among long-distance hikers, the and how often you cook. Some dislike the smell and resi- your local forest management
most popular stove option is one due on the cook pot, but it’s easy authority will consider this a stove
using denatured alcohol as a fuel. Alcohol stove: to use, and the combined stove- or a fire—particularly in areas or
This fuel is readily available, not Thrifty on the fuel weight is low compared to an seasons where campfires are not
just in sporting goods stores but at pocketbook equivalent canister setup. Esbit allowed. You also need some skill
hardware stores and sometimes and in the pack. tablets are harder to find than de- and perhaps extra gear to light a
gas stations. It’s a less efficient natured alcohol, but they eliminate small fire when available fuel is
fuel than traditional stoves use, the issue of pouring out the correct damp.
meaning that you need to carry a amount of alcohol for each use. Whatever you choose, make sure
larger volume of fuel to produce an The stove for burning Esbit tablets you consider the total weight of
equivalent amount of heat. Alcohol I use an alcohol stove, and a friend can be very inexpensive (or, again, stove + fuel + fuel container(s). And
stoves also typically take longer to who uses a Jet Boil (perhaps the free if you make your own). keep in mind there is a reason that
produce the same amount of heat. most popular and nicely designed canister stoves are so commonly
Some alcohol stoves offer some canister stove) regularly teases me Even lighter: seen on the trail—they’re easiest
degree of temperature control (to about how much faster he can heat Tablet fuel is to use, they’re clean, they heat
allow simmering food), others do water and prepare his meal. I don’t light and so is its things up fast, and you can control
not. care, because my trail cooking is stove, but heating the heat output. Nevertheless, I’m
In addition to the availability, how- limited to heating water for just one efficiency is happy with my alcohol stove as the
ever, a lightweight alcohol stove meal a day—and I know that my sacrificed. right balance of weight and other
avoids the downsides of canister total trail kitchen kit weighs signifi- factors for me; the right answer for
stoves. These include the carrying cantly less than his does. you may be different.
A final option that’s an old but now
weight of the canister itself, dispos- For those who find pack weight an improved choice is a small wood- Brian Lewis hiked the entire 2,663
ing of the empty canister, accumu- important criteria, I’d suggest look- burning stove. The stove itself
lating partially full canisters, and miles of the Pacific Crest Trail in
ing at alcohol stoves, which can is heavier than a typical alcohol
determining how many canisters 2008; find his trail journal at http://
range in cost from “free” (find in- stove. For example, the Bush Bud-
to bring on a trip. With an alcohol postholer.com/brianle. He is also
structions to make your own online) dy Ultra weighs about 5 oz., while
stove you can carry exactly the conducting a “Trekking Fast and
to perhaps $30 or so for choices my Brasslite alcohol stove weighs
amount of fuel that you choose with such as a Brasslite or Vargo stove, Light” seminar for The Mountain-
1.6 oz. With the wood stove, how-
minimal container weight. and somewhat more for a complete eers (see pg. 8 of the Go Guide).
ever, you typically don’t carry any
For a long multi-day trip with no re- system like the Caldera Cone. You fuel—you find it near your cook

Expo helped to cast spotlight on Rainier climb, suffragists


Continued from M3 case for equal voting rights. Mean- have influenced men to see them year marks the centennial com-
University of North Carolina Chapel while, AYPE offered a spotlight for in a new light, for on Nov. 8, 1910, memoration of that event.
Hill, Bialeschki states, “The entry suffragists. While the eyes of the the men of Washington voted to Shanna Stevenson is coordinator
of women into sports and physical world focused on Seattle and its amend the state constitution and of the Women’s History Consortium
activities was a significant part of environs, a statement about wom- grant women the right to vote by for the Washington State Historical
the general movement for female en’s strength and equality could a count of 52,299 to 29,676. Next Society.
emancipation.” be showcased in outdoor pursuits,
which reinforced women’s veracity
She goes on to point out that
these women challenged the myth of equality at the ballot box. The Mountaineers Legacy Society
of frailty and the illusion of male These women’s high-altitude ex- The Mountaineers, in partnership with The
supremacy. This helped make the ploits, at least in Washington, may Mountaineers Foundation, is proud to announce the
launch of The Mountaineers Legacy Society. The
Society will recognize and honor donors who have
included a gift to The Mountaineers and/or
the Foundation through a bequest or other
estate gift. If you would like to be
recognized as a Founding Member in
the Legacy Society – or would just
like to learn more – we
would love to hear from
you!

To find out more about


The Mountaineers Legacy Society,
please contact us:
giving@mountaineers.org or call
Judy Halls, 206-521-6006

M6
The Mountaineer August 2009

Passages
Esperanza Gonzales Rich, a 50-year member of The Mountaineers
and recognized for her untiring philanthropy, died May 21, 2009, at the age
of 89. Rich, born in Mexico, spent her childhood living in a dirt-floor shack
and then a boxcar in Nebraska, where she picked sugar beets.
During her teens in the fields, she was helped and impressed by two young
secretaries who brought her family food and clothes. Rich considered them
role models. One of them moved to Seattle and Rich eventually moved,
also, becoming a secretary at the University of Washington. The generosity
of her two role models inspired her to give something back to the immi-
grant community. She did so by directing immigrants to services, schools
and jobs through the St. Vincent de Paul Society. She also devoted her
extra hours to Leave a Legacy Foundation of Western Washington, which
encourages people of all means to make a will and leave a gift to charity.
In 1999 she was one of 11 Americans honored at the White House Confer-
ence on Philanthropy by then-President Clinton.
At age 84, she went to Peru, where she climbed a12,500 ft. peak. Two
years later, she traveled to Guatemala to help with medical outreach in a
remote village.
She was known for her no-waste ethic of recycling and reusing items
around the house as well as in the community. For 10 years she lived
without a car, walking up a steep hill to her home in Magnolia. In her early
years at The Mountaineers, she reveled in the folk-dancing events at the
clubhouse and was involved with The Mountaineers Players.
Though she loved the outdoors and travel, she especially loved music. A
member of the Seattle Classical Guitar Society, she also performed with
the Seattle Mandolin Orchestra.
Gala Lindvall photos

She married a schoolteacher, Bernard Rich, who died 20 years ago. She is Forest Theater follies
survived by her sister, Maria Guzman of Gary, Indiana, her brother, As- The Forest Theater opens its summer show, “High Button Shoes,” this month.
In the top photo, Floy (Nathaniel Jones) and Pontdue (Mick Etchoe) run after
cencion ‘Joe’ Gonzales of Lincoln, Nebraska, 10 nieces and nephews, and being discovered by the Keystone Cops. Above, Mama (Gail Foster) and
many friends. Junior (Katelyn Cooper) urge Fran (Amy Beth Lindvall) to look for security
from a man, not love. For more about the show, see pg. 2 of the Go Guide.
Lindsey White, a Mountaineers basic climbing student, died Sun.,

Off the shelf


July 5, from a fall while climbing Monte Cristo Peak. She was 39.
White, who joined The Mountaineers in 2008, was ascending Monte Cristo
Peak with her boyfriend and fellow Mountaineers member, Bill Tyers, when The latest from your Mountaineers Library
By Kathleen McCluskey, librarian

T
she slipped on a snowfield a few hundred feet below the summit. She was he library houses a wealth of timely books just waiting to be checked out by
unable to arrest herself with her ice ax and slid about 700 feet, according to patrons. The following titles may be of interest to hikers, naturalists, outdoors
the Snohomish County sheriff’s report. photographers, climbers, canyoneering enthusiasts, skiers, sailors and environ-
mentalists.
A celebration of White’s life was held July 22 at The Mountaineers head-
Circulating collection: “Accidents in North American Mountaineering” (2006 and
quarters in Seattle. The family asks that donations in her memory be made
2007); “Alaska-Yukon Wild Flowers Guide”; “Allen & Mike’s Really Cool Back-
to the Snohomish County Search and Rescue, Planned Parenthood or the country Ski Book: Traveling & Camping Skills for a Winter Environment”; “Ansel
Grey Muzzle. Adams: 400 Photographs”; “Ascent: The Invention of Mountain Climbing & Its
Practice”; “Best Loop Hikes: New Hampshire’s White Mountains to the Maine
Coast”; “Canyoneering: The San Rafael Swell”; “Canyoneering 2: Technical Loop
Hikes in Southern Utah”; “Colorado’s Quiet Winter Trails” (2007); “A Different Kind

The Owl and the Woodpecker of Country”; “Emerald City: An Environmental History of Seattle”; “Field Guide to the
Common and Interesting Plants of Baja California”; “First on Everest: The Mystery
of Mallory & Irvine”; “High Odyssey: The First Solo Winter Assault of Mount Whitney
A fundraiser event with author
and the Muir Trail Area”; “How to Ski the New French Way”; “Mount Everest: The
Paul Bannick Reconnaissance, 1935: The Forgotten Adventure”; “Mountains of Kenya”; “Ocean
Passages and Landfalls: Cruising Routes of the World”; “Traversa: A Solo Walk
Thursday, September 17 Across Africa from the Skeleton Coast to the Indian Ocean”; “Voyager’s Handbook:
7 pm @ The Mountaineers Building The Essential Guide to Bluewater Cruising” (2007).
Tickets: $10 advance/$12 at the door Guidebook collection: “Canyoneering Arizona”; “Central Washington Boulder-
ing: Leavenworth & Gold Bar” (2007); “Kluane National Park Hiking Guide” (2007);
Join us for an evening of owls and
woodpeckers as Paul Bannick shares 100 “West Coast Ice.”
never before seen images of our local DVDs: Dozen More Turns (Skiing, Safety–Avalanches); Return to Schralptown
species. (Skiing); White Book (Avalanche Safety).
Special Collection: “Matterhorn Centenary,” by Arnold Lunn; “Switzerland in Eng-
Space is limited! All who register before
September 10 will be entered to win a lish Prose and Poetry,” by Arnold Lunn.
print, a signed copy of Paul’s amazing Besides books you can check out, the library and bookstore feature carts full of
book or a private photo outing with Paul books to buy at sale prices from 25 cents to $50 and up (we have some valuable
at a local outdoor destination. titles for collectors of the mountaineering classics). Additionally, if you make an
appointment with the librarian, she can open the cabinets storing the overflow of
Please visit www.mountaineers.org for
books for sale.
details and ticket information.
LIbrary hours: Please visit www.mountaineers.org to view current library hours.

M
August 009 The Mountaineer
Youth group seeks to revive itself with a little help from volunteers
Dormant for the past few years, a young outdoor enthusiasts to plan among other outdoor endeavors. characteristic to the club in general.
Mountaineers youth group is un- their own group excursions in the The reorganization of the youth However, under adult auspices, the
dergoing a revival and is welcom- outdoors. In the past, activities group will tackle the questions of youths choose, plan, organize and
ing anyone who would like to help have included hiking, backpack- how to revive it and where it will lead their own activities.
shape direction. ing, climbing, sea kayaking, river find its members, according to past All youths are welcome to join,
The Mountaineers Youth Commit- rafting, trail maintenance, beach advisor Leonard Russell. Will it especially those who have not ex-
tee of the Seattle Branch allows cleanups, snowshoeing and skiing invite all kids or will it find youths perienced the great outdoors.
from existing groups such as Boys The group is now seeking inter-
and Girls Clubs or Scouts. Or, will it ested volunteers—youths and
affiliate with such groups? Russell adults—who are willing to give their
said the door is wide open with time reviving the youth program
possibilities. Will it promote itself and even leading trips.
and recruit by visiting schools,
When enough volunteers express
recreation centers and other youth
interest, a meeting will be held to
organizations? Who will do this?
begin the process of reestablishing
Will it hold fund-raisers?
an active program for youths.
Russell said all these questions
If interested in helping this pro-
and more will be examined.
gram, contact Leonard Russell,
The Youth Committee was co- 206 325-1310, leonardr@moun-
founded in 1991 by Pat Whitehill- taineers.org, or Sunny Reming-
Bates, Jeroldine Hallberg and Rus- ton, 206-354-8518, sunny9@

mountaineers sell. It allows youths of ages 14-18


to interact in outdoor activities
u.washington.edu.

members Resource reconnaissance welcome!


This spring the Okanogan- incursions by ATVs, dirt bikes and

only Wenatchee National Forest re-


leased a scoping document on for-
4X4 vehicles.
The Mountaineers, Washington

night K?LIJ;8P#8L>LJK)'
+1''Æ /1''GD
est travel management delineating
which roads and trails are open to
specific uses (e.g., street vehicles,
Trails Association, Alpine Lakes
Protection Society, Conserva-
tion Northwest and The Wilder-
DFLEK8@E?8I;N<8I ORVs, hiking, horseback riding, ness Society have compiled a list
),'G@E<JKI<<K mountain biking). of hikes to survey for potential
J<8KKC<#N8›)'-%++(%)-*0 In several cases, roads and trails incursion of motorized vehicles
r Mountaineers Members Only
identified for motorized recreation into wilderness and other sensi-
r Mountaineers members receive 30%
off their purchases during the event intersect with or dead-end at non- tive areas. To participate in one of
The r Meet the staff; learn about Mountain motorized trails and trailheads that these ground-truthing expeditions,
Mountaineers Hardwear products
r Door Prizes access congressionally-designated contact Mountaineers Public Policy
wilderness areas, thus inviting Associate Leesa Wright, leesaw@
www.mountaineers.org

mountaineers.org, 206-521-6012.

Yoga Retreats
Yoga Create a legacy without
changing your will or parting
with any assets now
Yoga •Hiking
•Yoga • Hiking ••Culture
Culture ••Swimming
Swimming • •Sunshine
Sunshine Many Mountaineers members want to
give generously to the club to help ensure
its future, but are concerned about having
enough resources to meet their own future
needs. For all such members, a gift by
beneficiary designation may provide just
the right answer.
These gifts allow you sole access to your
funds during your lifetime, can always be
changed if your circumstances change, and
are easy to arrange.
You can name The Mountaineers as a
beneficiary of:
Retirement assets This includes your IRA
(regardless of the type of IRA) and most
qualified retirement plans, such as 401(k)
and 403(b) plans.
Lake Atitlan, Guatemala Roy Holman
Roy Holman Life insurance policy Perhaps you took
out a policy when the children were young
but no longer have a need for it.
Washington:
Costa Methow
Rica -Cedar
Washington: Nov.SpringsValley-Retreat,
28-Dec. 7, 2008
October Oct. 2-4, 2007
19-21, 2009 Bank accounts (savings or checking)
Brokerage accounts (investments)
$350
$1,195 – Includes
– Shared
$295 includes two nights
room,meals,
all organic shared
Includes lodging,
9 nights
classes, double room U.S. Savings Bonds
organic
hotel, meals,
most classes,
meals, hikes, ground
classes, and other activities
transport Another benefit to making a gift by
Costa Rica - November 23 – Dec 1, 2007 - Roy H & Christine Borys beneficiary designation is that it can be a
Costa
(Or: Rica – includes
$1,995 Oct 17-25, RT2009air from Seattle)
tax-wise way to support The
$1,195 Shared room, Includes 8 nights hotel, most meals, classes, ground
$1,395 – (Or:
transport Includes
$1,895 8 nights
includeshotel, most
RT air meals,
from classes, ground transport
Seattle) Mountaineers. Some of the assets above
(Or: $2,195
Mexico: Yelapaincludes
- Jan.RT 16-24,
air from 2009
Seattle) (e.g., IRA proceeds) are subject to income
tax in addition to possible estate taxes.
$1,195
Mexico:–Yelapa
Mexico: Includes
Yelapa --Jan 8January
nights 18-26,
22-30, hotel, 2008
2010 most -meals,
Roy H classes, ground
& Linda Lapping However, this double-taxation can be
transport
$1,195 (Or:
$1,195 shared:
– Includes $1,795
8 nights
Includes includes
8 nights RT
hotel,hotel, air
most most from
meals, Seattle)
classes,
meals, ground
classes, transport
Mexico ground avoided by gifting all or part of the asset to
transport (Or: $1,695RTincludes RTSeattle)
air from Seattle) The Mountaineers.*
(Or: $1,750 includes air from You can name The Mountaineers as the
Guatemala: Lake Atitlan – Feb. 26-March 9, 2009 sole beneficiary or as one of several.
Guatemala:Lake
Guatemala: LakeAtitlan
Atitlan-–Feb
Feb.14-25,
18-28,2008
2010- Roy H & Kara Keating
$1,295 – 11 nights hotel, most meals, classes, ground transport This allows you to make a gift while still
$1,395 shared:
$1,295 – 11 nights hotel, Hotel,
11 nights most meals, classes,Classes,
Most Meals, groundGround
transport ($2,150
transport providing for family members or other
($1,995 includesRTRTairair from Seattle)
includes RT air from Seattle)
($1,895 includes from Seattle) loved ones. Legacy gifts of all sizes—large
or small—are greatly appreciated.
Roy is a Mountaineer member, hike leader, yoga and meditation teacher, minister, and For additional details on these giving
strategies, or how to become a member of
reflexologist. Classes & Workshops in the Everett area. Weddings officiated too! The Summit Society, please contact Judy
Halls at judyh@mountaineers.org or call
Contact for more info: Roy Holman 425-303-8150, 206-521-6006 for more information.
*Assuming the gift is directed to tax-exempt
www.holmanhealthconnections.com Yoga For Every Body programming at the Mountaineers or the
Mountaineers Foundation.

M8

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