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Upfront
Bagging Bagan
Read our expert
guide to South-East THE TEAM
Asia on p40
What have
theybeen up
tothismonth?
PHOEBE SMITH
EDITOR
Driving a little-known
highway that connects
Alaska to mainland USA
SEE PAGE 24
Welcome 5 THINGS
WE LEARNED
THIS ISSUE:
TOM HAWKER
Time and time again we get told our annual
1 According to Aboriginal legend, PRODUCTION EDITOR
Reader Travel Awards are the most respected Booking his next family
whales beach themselves upon adventure with a new
around, truly reflecting the views of you, our
death to return the spirits of unborn dose of confidence
well-travelled readers. The results are always SEE PAGE 68
children back to the land; p54
a mix of the expected (will any airport ever
surpass Changi?) and the surprises if Guernsey
was an independent country it would have
caused a major upset! To see which countries, companies, and
2 Melting snow, the midnight sun,
lakes and birch forests make Arctic
Sweden in summer prime walking
more you really rated on your travels, turn to p91. territory; p80
One thing that came out strongly was that, despite the digital
age, you love books as much as ever. So it felt fitting to recognise
Stanfords booksellers in our new Travel Icon award its Covent
Garden store alone has been the start of many a journey.
3 Travelling the world by rail on your
own? Many sleeper trains offer
single cabins for the same price as
GARETH CLARK
SUB EDITOR/WRITER
Discovering what watery
wildlife he can swim with
But digital offers many brilliant opportunities to share more doubles; p100 next on his travels
of Wanderlust with you. So, wherever you see an Xtra symbol
4
SEE PAGE 64
in this magazine, you can scan it with your phone to see
North Wales is a foodie hub 41 of
bonus content. its restaurants appear in the 2017
Happy reading (and scanning), Michelin guide; p131
5 Living in Canadas
Yukon is tough
Cover image A Monk In Talo Monastery, Punakha District Bhutan Keith Levit/Getty This page Dreamstime; Neil S Price
5
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MATTHEWS FRESCURA STILLMAN
Singer and Visit Wales ambassador Winner of the Visitors Vote in the Bar-hopping author
Facebook www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravelmagazine
2016 Wanderlust Travel Photo of
Singer Cerys has toured all the Year competition From the cocktail bars of
THE TEAM around the world as the Tokyo to the secret
Lyn Hughes Editor-in-Chief, Publisher & Co-founder
Phoebe Smith Editor frontwoman of 90s Welsh You loved Giovannis shot of speakeasies of Buenos
Graham Berridge Art Director indie band Catatonia, but a majestic snowy owl Aires, theres few worldly
Tom Hawker Production Editor proves nowhere is quite like swooping beneath a watering holes Adrienne
Gareth Clark Sub-Editor/Writer home with her role as a looming stormcloud in hasnt enjoyed a tipple in.
Rhodri Andrews Editorial Assistant passionate ambassador for Qubec, Canada, with And with the help of
Mike Wright Art Editor Visit Wales. With 2017 being visitors to the London bartenders across the
Graeme Green Web Editor
Peter Moore Associate Web Editor the countrys Year of Destinations Travel Show globe, shes handpicked her
Heidi Hodgkins Commercial Manager Legend she shares with us 2017 voting it their favourite top drinkeries in new book
Chris Debbinney-Wright Creative Solutions the folklore that the Welsh at our Travel Photo of the Where Bartenders Drink. For
Nathan Inns Senior Sales Executive hills and coasts are Year exhibition see his five of her favourites in
Simon Chubb Technology Director plentifully steeped in (p18) winning image on p8 South America, see p76
Danny Callaghan Finance & Operations Director
David Forder Marketing Manager
Sue Spoor Subscriptions Manager Mountain, desert, ocean Mountain, desert, ocean Mountain, desert, ocean
Pauline Moore Accounts Assistant or jungle which are you? or jungle which are you? or jungle which are you?
Corinne Dainton Subs Assistant Mountain. Jungle, no question. Its got Mountain.
Assisted by James Callery (web intern) First great travel so much wildlife. First great travel
Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein, experience? First great travel experience?
Alastair Humphreys & William Gray Contributing Editors Almost dying off the coast of experience?
Ze Office dog
Paris, for Christmas the year
the Pacific island of Nauru Visiting the national parks of I turned 12. It was my first
when I was wild swimming. the USA for the first time. time outside the US and I
In memory of co-founder & publisher Paul Morrison
Favourite journey? The impact the nature had adored every minute of it.
Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2017, ISSN 1351-4733
Probably when I went to on me was amazing. Favourite journey?
Published by Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 1 Leworth Place, Windsor SL4 1EB. All Kiribati in the central Pacific. Favourite journey?
rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly
Sailing from island to island
forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. No responsibility for Top five places Travelling through Hwange in and around Mount Desert
incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the worldwide? National Park in Zimbabwe. Island in Maine.
authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. Its got to be Wales, It was completely silent with Top five places worldwide?
US DISTRIBUTION obviously, and Norway. only elephants for company Napa Valley, USA; New York
Wanderlust, ISSN 1351-4733, is published monthly except Dec/Jan and Jul/Aug I think those two are enough! nothing more. City, USA; Paris, France;
combined issues and is distributed in the USA by Pitney Bowes International
Mailing Services Inc as mailing agent. Periodicals postage paid at Kearny, NJ and
Passport stamp Top five places worldwide? Crete, Greece; Hawaii, USA.
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CONTRIBUTIONS & WORK EXPERIENCE China. South Africa; Iceland; and youreproudest of?
For details please go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/aboutus Passport stamp youd my homeland, Italy. My French visa from when
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Looking for high-impact travel content? Wanderlust Travel Media produces Tibet. youreproudest of? Passport stamp youd
customer magazines, supplements and digital content for travel companies Guilty travel pleasure? Costa Rica. most like to have?
and organisations. For details, see www.wanderlusttravelmedia.com. The tour buses with guides Passport stamp youd Cuba.
LICENSING & SYNDICATION ENQUIRIES shouting at you through most like to have? Guilty travel pleasure?
Bruce Sawford, Bruce Sawford Licensing
Bruce@BruceSawfordLicensing.com
their microphones I love Tonga. Drinking bubbly and eating
those things! Oh, and also Guilty travel pleasure? bar snacks while binge-
Printing Wyndeham Roche, Victoria Business Park Roche, St Austell,
Cornwall PL26 8LX the Fat Tire Tours in places My only real travel pleasure watching HBO TV on my
Newstrade distribution COMAG Specialist: 01895 433800 like Berlin. is taking lots of photos. infrequent first class flights.
Footnotes maps Digital Mapping (Tel: 02920 912192)
Office camera Nikon D80
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360
1
I 1
I 1
I
V i e w f i n d e r
FJORD FRONT ROW
Naeryfjord, Norway
Photographer: Adam Major
Glancing up at Norways fjords from boat or
kayak is one of travels eye-popping sights.
But as snapper Adam Major expertly shows
in this shot of a hiker gazing upon
glacier-carved Naeryfjord from atop the
perilous edge of Breiskrednosi, sometimes
the most epic views are from above. This
spectacle of natures paintbrush is one of
the shortlisted photos featured in this years
accompanying book for the annual Outdoor
Photographer of the Year 2016 competition.
Pure natural drama.
Outdoor Photographer of the Year:
Portfolio II (Ammonite Press; 25).
Out now; www.opoty.co.uk
360 Viewfinder
WINGING IT
Qubec, Canada
Photographer: Giovanni Frescura
Few moments transfix our attention like
a bird of prey in full flight, especially one
with a wingspan like this snowy owl (up to
1.5m) indeed birdwatchers venture across
the globe to see these owls in their natural
Arctic habitat. Usually snapped scanning
the ground for food, this owl has been
captured by Giovanni Frescuras camera as
it seeks solace of an entirely different form:
shelter from the storm overhead. It seems
the owls majesty caught your eye, too: this
image was chosen by the thousands who
viewed the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the
Year exhibition at this years Destinations
Travel Show as your Visitors Vote winner.
Keep an eye out for details of this years
Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year
competition later in 2017
360 Viewfinder
JUST DESERT?
Namib Desert, Namibia
Photographer: Jrgen Wettke
The oldest desert in the world, the Namibs
dunes have bewitched travellers for
Millennia. One of the more recent visitors
to fall under their 55 million-year-old spell is
photographer Jrgen Wettke, who has
devoted a whole book to its sandy
expanses. Here Jrgen frames the
Sossusvlei Sands as a pyramidal ochre
dune is surrounded by tree-studded creamy
sands and chocolatey whipped mounds.
Proof that nature is the ultimate artist.
The Namib Desert Art. Structures.
Colors. by Jrgen Wettke (50, teNeues)
www.teneues.com
12 THINGS YOU
Going up
A cable car heads
towards the top of
Sugarloaf Mountain in
NEED TO KNOW
Rio de Janeiro
THIS MONTH...
Your April essentials: Copenhagen is hip, historic
and happy; Cerys talks Wales; we get hot for
chillies; the Falklands celebrates an anniversary
1
Tr a v e l I s s u e s
A
glimpse over Norways They do boost the local economy and add
fjordlands always affords an invaluable source of tourism to a
spectacular views. And country, says mountaineer Alan Hinkes.
like most epic vistas, But, they also open up hidden gems to
theyre hard-earned. travellers too. Think of the Alps where
But in May, summiting traditionally a lot of the walks start with a
these Scandinavian valleys is about to become cable car, forgoing the boring metres of
a lot easier, with a new cable car whisking ascent and getting you high and into the
you to the top of Mount Hoven (1,011m), in really prime walking territory.
western Norway, in five minutes. Normally, But is quicker and easier always a good
youd have to undergo a gruelling seven-hour, thing? Many new cable car locations already
6km via ferrata (mountain climbing route). have historic routes to trace, such as a
Its not alone either, multi-day walk, or a via
as cable cars are
becoming a common
Cable Cars boost the local ferrata, like in Loen.
Cable cars can be
sight at cities and economy and open up noisy too, says Laurent
tourist sites around the Dauby from the
planet as people hidden travel gems too International
demand easier access to Association for Public
these golden vantage points. The fjords are Transport. Even in cities they can be quite
steep and difficult to reach for many, so this invasive, not just to the landscape but people
means everyone can enjoy them from as well. And Alan warns we should be
above, says Richard Grov, general manager sensitive to their location: They need to be
of Norways new cable car, the Loen Skylift. in keeping with the place and its environment.
It seems most of you agree, too, with our So, cable cars can be fast, direct and, most
poll showing over four out of five of you importantly, inclusive offering views to an
enjoy riding cable cars on your travels. Its expanded audience. But its worth
easy to see why a place would add them remembering that sometimes, the journey
easy access to a previously difficult to reach needed to make the vista can make the
place is usually going to be a money maker. experience that much sweeter.
Getty
1 Mi Telefrico, Bolivia
The worlds highest cable car
(over 4,000m above sea level),
which connects La Paz with the
Andean city of El Alto, affords
spectacular cityscapes and
mountain views. The cheap-as-
chips 25p fare is pretty good, too...
3 CabriO, Switzerland
Feel the alpine wind in your hair
on the planets only open-top cable
car. Rising to the top of the
1,900m-high Mount Stanserhorn in
seven minutes, youll bag unrivalled
views of Lake Lucerne at its summit.
No, I like
It depends soaking up
on what the the location on
alternative route is the ground
15% 4%
Yes, they offer
me much Yes, they offer unique
easier access and spectacular views
7% 74%
New Routes
GO
NOW...
Pastel pedalling
2
Copenhagens
Nyhavn is perfect for
cafes and cycling
CINEMA GEAR TV
Use your Wanderlust Xtra app when you see this logo Xtra
Wanderlust May 2016 | 15
360 Need to Know
World Food
MOLE POBLANO
DE GUAJOLOTE
EAT Serves 4
4 large slices of raw turkey
METHOD:
1. Brown the meat in a heavy
pan for ten minutes on each
side, then remove. Place in
abaking dish and roast in the
top tip
If you cant find identical
oven at 160C for 50 minutes.
Put aside and keep the warm.
6
chillies to those used in 2. Toast the pasilla and New
therecipe (right), substitute Mexican chillies in a heavy pan
for chillies of a similar (having first destemmed and
heat (in this case:
deseeded them) until they puff
hot!).
slightly. Turn often to keep from
O
herbs and spices, and half the
ur love affair with chilli peppers grilled meat, visitors to the New World are sesame seeds into ablender
knows no bounds. These days, near-guaranteed to pick up a little heat. and pure, adding some broth
its a key ingredient in countless But some say the true culinary origins of tokeep the sauce smooth.
world cuisines that travellers chillies lie further north, in Mexico, where 4. Melt the lard in a large
will find placed in front of them, from the their use has been documented as far back as saucepan and saut the chilli
fiery stews of West Africa to the red-hot 6000 BC. And according to Dave DeWitt, pure for ten minutes over
curries of India. But its origins lie in neither. author of The Essential Chile Sauce Guide, one amedium-hot heat, stirring
Central and South America lays true claim dish here rises above all others: mole, deriving frequently (add rest of the
to this humble capsicum, tracing its use back from the Aztec word molli (meaning mixture). broth). Reduce the heat, stir in
to the Mayan, Incan and Aztec civilisations. The term embraces a vast number of the chocolate and cook over a
Back then, chillies were used as a meat sauces, said Dave, utilising every imaginable low heat for 30 minutes.
preserve. But today, this plant (aji) has combination of meats, vegetables and spices. 5. Add meat to the sauce and
become the cornerstone of Latin American But what they all have in common is lots of heat through. Garnish with the
cooking. Whether it is spicing upa bland chillies, as in fiery national fave mole poblano sesame seeds and serve.
Andean diet of spuds and corn with yellow de guajolote (turkey in chocolate-chilli sauce;
amarillo peppers, dotting a fishy ceviche in seeright). So, if you want to know where the The Essential Chile Sauce
Lima or firing Venezuelas guacamole-like world got its spicy mojo from, cook up a batch Guide (Terra Nova Books, 12)
Dreamstime
guasacaca, typically served alongside tender and transport your palate to ancient Mexico. by Dave DeWitt. Out now.
WIN!
A trip to Nicaragua with
Journey Latin America
See Nicaraguas lava-formed lands and colonial grandeur
with the UKs no.1 Latin American travel experts
C
olonial cities. Volcanic cobblestone lanes and pastel-shaded facades
lands. Tropical island- mean theres a photo-op around every
hopping. Nicaragua is corner. Its location on the banks of Lake
laden with travel treasures Nicaragua serves it well, too. Here, take a
to uncover, but Central boat trip around the 365 lava-hewn islets
Americas largest country formed from the spurts of Mombacho
boasts also the regions best-kept secret. a microcosm of Nicaraguas volcano-defined HOW TO WIN
And there is no-one better than land and spy rich birdlife (including Journey Latin America is offering you and
Journey Latin America to help you unravel cormorants, parrots, herons) overhead. a friend the chance to each win a place on
a nine-day bespoke trip to Nicaragua,
this oft-bypassed land. Drawing on over 36
comprised of flights and visits to Managua,
years experience in organising both group Colonial charms Granada, Ometepe Island, Len and a volcano
tours and bespoke trips to Central and South Formed by two volcanoes, Lake Nicaraguas ash boarding experience. To be in with
America, they have the insider know-how to major island, Ometepe (pictured above) is a chance of winning, answer the following:
help you get under Nicaraguas cultured skin. swathed in cloud forest and studded with
Now, theyre offering you and a friend the
chance to win a place on a bespoke nine-day
waterfalls and lagoons. When treading its
tropical wilds youll be joined by monkeys
Q: When were the colonial
cities of Granada and Len
both founded?
trip to Nicaragua, which neatly knits together and the birds sunset chatterings, while (a) 1494 (b) 1524 (c) 1574
the countrys most fascinating offerings. pre-Columbian petroglyphs offer insights
into the islands past. To enter and for full terms and conditions, go to wanderlust.
Volcanic trails Finish your Nicaragua experience with co.uk/competitions or send your answer to the Wanderlust
office (address p2). The closing date is 19 April 2017.
Most Nicaraguan journeys begin with a brief a trip to colonial hub, Len, which blends State no offers if youd rather not be contacted by
Wanderlust or its sponsors.
stay in its capital, Managua. Earthquakes religious grandeur with students buzz. One
have shorn it of historic architecture, so head of the countrys symbols, volcanic Cerro
for its malecn (waterfront) and the volcanic Negro, looms nearby: enjoy a toboggan ride
Chiltepe Peninsula Natural Reserve, with its skimming its ashy slopes. Just one more
twin azure crater lakes, Apoyeque and Xilo. adventure in Nicaragua, a crowd-free land of
A little further south, Granada oozes culture, historic architecture and natural
photogenic buildings. Named after its scapes and Journey Latin America is best
Spanish counterpart, its clutch of churches, placed to help you unlock its wild charms.
7
Five Minutes With...
CERYS MATTHEWS
LOVES A LEGEND
Rock star, author, disc jockey and newly minted Visit Wales ambassador
Cerys Matthews explains the Year of Legend, what she loves best about
her home country and where in Wales you should be heading to next
8 UK
Whats On
EVENTS
9
CHANNEL ISLANDS Read this...
HERITAGE FESTIVAL
Adventurers come in
Channel Islands, 8 Apr-10 May
www.visitguernsey.com
www.visitjersey.com
Various locations. Visit websites for
A
horde of myths and legends, heritage
workshops and tours of its manor packed shelf of big hitters and (9, Troubadour). The inquisitive diplomat
houses and forts. The islands of Alderney, bigger adventures this month. covers a career spanning Outer Mongolia,
Sark and Herm also have a number of Straddling both of those is Levison Iran, Finland, Oz and Trinidad & Tobago.
events planned.
Wood, whose Walking the Americas Diplomacy is also the name of the game for
EVEREST RESCUE (20, Hodder & Stoughton) successfully fleshes Garrett Carr, whose The Rule of the Land
London, 28 Mar out his Mexico-to-Colombia TV trek with (14, Faber & Faber) sees him traipse and
www.rgs.org
Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington rich human detail and strong context. canoe the increasingly topical borderland
Gore, SW7 2AR. From 6.45pm; tickets Of course, explorers come in all shapes, between Northern Ireland and the Republic.
from 20, with a percentage going to sizes and ages. The Frozen Frontier (19, A sensitive study and history of a bloody
ABF The Soldiers Charity. For tickets,
visit tinyurl.com/everestrescue Bloomsbury) sees 73-year-old seafarer David frontier and the people who inhabit it.
Scott Cowper sail through the Northwest Thankfully, the late A A Gill was neither
War veteran Les Binns recounts the
moments behind when he aborted his
Passage accompanied by his sole crew, Jane diplomatic or sensitive. Collecting together
own mission to summit Mount Everest only Maufe (69), the first woman to cross the the last five years of Adrian Anthonys many
500m from the top, to rescue a stricken Passage and who documents their journey. highlights, Lines In The Sand (20, Weidenfeld
climber. Battling snowstorms, he helped
another sick climber on the descent too, Martin Berthoud manages to make his life & Nicolson) sees him wasp around the world
single-handedly leading them both to safety. in the Foreign Office sound like one big with passion, honesty and glorious, wickedly
adventure in Undiplomatic Episodes funny words. Hes already much missed.
THE GLOBETROTTERS CLUB
London, 1 Apr
www.globetrotters.co.uk
The Church of Scotland, Crown Court,
10 visiting
Covent Garden, WC2B 5EZ. Doors open The Big Debate
at 2.15pm. 6; 3 for members.
Call 020 7193 2586 to book. Has President Donald Trump put you off
Join two intrepid speakers this month as
they recount their epic adventures. Charlie
the United States of America?
Knight took a six-month sabbatical to tread The newly-elected President has certainly stirred things up with his
the USA from tail to top, weaving from the
Mexican border past mountains, deserts
controversial policies, but has he caused you to halt your visits to the USA?
and lava fields to Canada. Also on the bill is
YES NO
Jacki Hill Murphy who, using local boats,
retraces the tragic 1769 journey of the first
women to navigate the Amazon River.
Ruth Thomas, Julia Hammond,
BRISTOL TRAVELLERS CLUB Wanderlust reader Wanderlust reader
London, 11 Apr
www.marcopolotravel.co.uk Trumps policies are completely Hell no! Hes a democratically
YHA, 14 Narrow Quay, BS1 4QA. 3.50 with against what I believe in and Ive been very elected leader and boycotting the USA wont
a proportion of the entry fee donated to outspoken against him. In some ways it would make a bit of difference to him or the people
WaterAid. From 7.10pm. Tickets available on
the door. be interesting to see if I did get turned back at who elected him. If we went around boycotting
the border. But Im not going to test this out as places because we didnt like what their leaders
Alan Gilbert retells his intrepid travels to I am hoping that in four years there will be were doing, there wouldnt be many places left
Chile and Easter Island, while Lester
Durston remembers his adventures in a change of regime and I dont want a black to visit. But I dont think Ill be discussing
Gujarat, India. mark against my name when that happens. politics while Im visiting there this spring.
Summer loving
Instant Expert The Falklands are
KNOW
one of the worlds
penguin capitals,
with as many as a
million birds nesting
YOUR
here each summer
FALKLAND
ISLANDS
11 April marks 35 years since war hit the Falklands, but go now and
youll find these windswept isles are a peaceful penguin haven
A
land of penguins, windswept male elephant seals tussling on the beaches marks the conflicts end, will feature a day of
horizons and complex history, is a magnificent spectacle, as isthe Darwinian events in capital Stanley. Visitors can always
theFalkland Islands (aka Islas sight of predatory orcas stalking the seals find out more at the Historic Dockyard
Malvinas) are best known for newborn pups in summer (Dec-Feb). Time Museum there, as well as war sites in San
their role in a tug of war between the UK your visit well and you can even glimpse sei Carlos and Port Howard. Plus, try a battlefield
and Argentina, climaxing with the Falklands and other baleen whales in the seas during tour to get a direct insight into the conflict.
War of 1982. And though 2 April marks 35 migration (Feb-May).
years since the guns first sounded, beginning Back on land, over 200 bird species fill the Anything else?
a series of anniversary events, travellers have skies, including albatrosses, cormorants and Dont stick to the big two islands (East and
always found tranquillity in the 700-plus petrels. But wildlife isnt the only draw here West Falklands). Sea Lion Island teems with
islands: as a pitstop when venturing into particularly in Port Louis, which retains its namesake mammals, Bleaker Island has
Antarctic waters; ashort break from the remnants of its 18th-century French rule as rockhopper colonies in abundance and
South American mainland; or as a rugged well as windblasted peaks ideal for hiking. Pebble Island has... well, sheep, and lots of
wildlife-watching opportunity. them, but great walks, too. Yet arguably
And the anniversary? itsSaunders Island that affords the most
What can I see there? A number of services reflecting on the intimate experience, as you hole up in an
Its five native species of penguins (Magellanic, Falklands War are planned, but details were isolated Portakabin, spying up to four species
king, rockhopper, gentoo and macaroni) are unconfirmed at the time of going to press. of penguin while itinerant cormorants and
Dreamstime
arguably the top draw for visitors, but spying However, Liberation Day (June 14), which albatrosses swoop overhead. Pure wild bliss.
Marvellous Peru
E
ver since Hiram Bingham stumbled across Machu Cradle of biodiversity
Picchu over 100 years ago, the citadel has become the The UNESCO-listed Manu Biosphere Reserve is one of the Edens
poster icon of Peru. But there is much more to the of Madre de Dios and, arguably, all of South America. Spy giant
country than its incredible Inca heritage in fact, two otters, jaguars and several species of monkeys (including red
thirds of the country is covered by a lush Amazon howler, spider and capuchins) roaming its wilds, or caimans
swathe and one region of this verdant wilderness is particularly prowling its lakes. But its Manus collpas (clay licks) that gift you
deserving of your attention: Madre de Dios. A land of winding rivers, the best wildlife spotting. Vividly-feathered parrots, parakeets and
wildlife-rich jungle and indigenous peoples, this bountiful rainforest macaws flock to the lick at Blanquillo, while monkeys and tapirs
is off-the-grid Peru at its finest. can also be seen slurping the sticky mud cliffs elsewhere.
Wildlife wonders
Manu isnt Madre de Dios only wildlife-dense destination
Tambopata National Reserve also drips with animals, playing host
to around 600 bird, over 1,200 butterfly and over 100 mammal
species. Tambopatas trio of oxbow lakes (Sandoval, Tres Chimbadas
and Valencia) are a bounty of life. Tropical trees fringe their
surrounds, while boat trips drift past giant otters, black caiman and
river turtles. This is a paradise for wildlife watchers, where
there are always new species to see and new routes to discover.
Human life is scarcer across the Amazon Basin, but some of the
local villages can be visited through organised tours. These trips
might also take you through perhaps the best way to appreciate
the reserve: from above, atop its 42m-high canopy tower,
admiring natures handiwork.
Of course, with the Inca capital of Cusco only a stones throw
away, you can easily add a little ancient culture to your trip too.
But with so much wildlife packed into its wild landscapes
and so few tourists Madre de Dios easily fulfils that ultimate
travellers wish: for adventure.
12
Be Inspired
TRAVEL
WITH TOP
TOUR OPS
A
great tour operator can make the difference to dragons, before pushing on to Sumba, an Who: Llama Travel (020 7263 3000;
any trip. Thankfully you, our ever-discerning island of old villages and megalithic tombs. llamatravel.com)
readers, know a good one when you book with Who: Selective Asia (01273 670001; When: Selected dates from Mar-Nov 2017
them, as proved each year in our Reader Travel Awards selectiveasia.com) How long: 14 days
(full results p97). So heres the 2017 roster, ranked in order When: Year round How much: From 2,029 (incl flights)
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How much: From 4,136 (excl flights) 5. Canada
Drive across widescreen vistas
1. China 3. Jordan
Ride some new rails Combine classic sites with natural drama Its just you, the road and Canadas wilds
on a Hidden Gems of the Rockies self-drive
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west on Bamboo Travels South China push on Holiday Architects Jordans of Waterton Lakes NP; spy moose, elk and
Explorer trip, as a new train route takes Natural Beauty tour, spying the canyons bears in Kootenay NP; and end in the lush
you from the vast gorges and old market of Dana Nature Reserve and the verdant Banff NP, hiking to its bubbling Ink Pots
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the Li River amid towering karst peaks. Who: Holiday Architects (01242 253073; audleytravel.com)
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6. Iran
Picky
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4. Peru Explore Persian treasures
2. Indonesia
Traveller
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Island-hopping ancient sites
Bring Incan history to life
2 3 4
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When: 12 Aug & 9 Sep 2017 How much: From 2,026 (incl flights)
Alaska Highway
BLAZING
A TRAIL
In 1942 a new road ploughed through the remotest
parts of Canadas Yukon to connect Alaska with the
lower 48 states. 75 years on, we hit the road...
WORDS PHOEBE SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS NEIL S PRICE
A pointed welcome
A bull elk lurks amid the
fall foliage near Haines
Junction, Yukon
W
hen I first came here there were no But such distances are considered easy by todays standards.
footpaths, walking guide Brett Liddles Before the 1940s, it was a different story altogether. Then, to travel
words oozed out of his throat like thick from what would become Haines Junction to the capital of the Yukon
treacle, his voice filling the wooden cabin would have taken several days ride on horseback through thick forest.
with tones as rough as the tree trunks And the only ones making that journey would have likely been members
that held the room together. Back then, it of the First Nations, Canadas indigenous people. But that all changed
was a brand new national park, andpart in 1942, as the realities of the Second World War hit North America.
of myjob was to designate the trails. He wore the stoic expression of a The Japanese had bombed Pearl Harbour and Germany were
man who had told his story many times, but still seemed to linger over marching on Russia (then allies of the US), so it was decided that
every word, as though laying the aroad wasurgently needed to
groundwork for something more.
Here in Kluane National Park, Nothing is easy for the connect Alaska (via the Yukon
andBritish Columbia) with the
deep in Canadas remote Yukon
Territory and some 35 years on
residents of the Yukon. I asked lower 48states. Primarily it would
be amilitary supply route one
from Bretts trailblazing days of
the 1970s, there are still just 15
Brett where he did his weekly that could both helpsupport
theRussian war effort across the
marked footpaths. Given that this
park stretches an area spanning
shop. The answer: 187km Bering Strait anddefend against
the threat of Japan, who would
more than 22,000 sq km larger away in Whitehorse make inroads on Alaskas Aleutian
than Wales it shows just how Islands later that year. So,in
difficult establishing those early routes had been. But then, nothing under eight months whole regiments of army personnel (around
comes easy to the residents of the Yukon, the north-westernmost of 11,000 men in total) paved their way across the permafrost, cutting
all Canadas provinces and territories. I asked Brett, who lives 30 down trees, establishing camps and boosting the populations of tiny
minutes drive from a hamlet called Haines Junction, where he did one-horse towns fromahandful of souls to bustling metropolises
his weekly shop. The answer: 187km away in Whitehorse. within hours changing things for those who lived here forever.
Striking gold
(clockwise from this)
The view from Soliders
Summit in Kluane,
where the Alaska
Highway was officially
opened in 1942; a nod to
the Klondike gold rush in
Skagway, Alaska; old
military vehicles rust in
the forest near Whitehorse;
what remains of the pier
at the ghost town of
Dyea; the quirky high
street in Skagway
stood a wooden frontage the only piece of this puzzle left standing
At the museum in town, a sepia photograph showed a queue of emerald lakes. Finally, I reached the turning onto the Alaska Highway,
ill-prepared souls battling their way up a snow-plastered hill pass as now a ribbon of black asphalt that was easy to follow and easy to drive.
they embarked ontheir search for gold. I yearned to see the real thing I headed north-west, spotting a herd of elk as I bound for Haines
for myself. So, on choosing my vehicle, before heading to Whitehorse Junction and the gateway to Kluane National Park. En route I crossed
to pick up the highway, I made a short detour to the ghost town of the Takhini Salt Flats, passing tundra pockmarked by circular
Dyea. It was here that the goldminers perilous route had begun. depressions, and spotted a turn-off for the Old Alaska Highway
Now a peaceful, almost eerily silent, place by the waters edge, aleftover loop from the original route before it was improved in 1943.
allthat remained of the old Dyea pier that Id seen in pictures were It was a real adventure road at that time, explained Whitehorse
the legs that supported it, now green-covered stumps. Like the town, local Doug Bell, who I had spoken to while planning my route, and
the original prospectors route (the Chilkoot Trail) into the hills became who had driven the road in 1946 while working as a radio operator.
redundant soon after 1898, abandoned in favour of Skagway where People say you needed a permit, but we never had one or were
the water was deeper and could accommodate bigger boats. Ihit the never asked. There were lots more twists and turns, ups and downs,
trail and headed into the spongy forest, its floor coated in a thick quilt and what we called washboards, when the rocks just chewed
of moss. Depressions in the ground marked where storerooms and the tyres right up. We got flats all the time and had to stop every
homesteads had once stood, while further on, beneath the trees, an 20 or 30 miles, meaning it took a long time to drive it.
old wooden frontage was the only piece of this puzzle left standing. Nowadays, the 2,288km (1,422 mile) highway is a lot smoother and
The drive back to Whitehorse was one of the prettiest I encountered, quicker, meaning there are fewer places to stop especiallywhen, as I
weaving through trees coloured golden by the fall and shimmering did, you drive it in early September. At Haines Junction, I met walking
guide Brett, who as a former park ranger hadbeen responsible early morning light. At Kluane Lake I swapped the car for a plane. But
for establishing trails in the national park andwas just getting ready to it was no ordinary plane this one came equipped with a pair of skis.
close for the season and travel to warmer climes. WhenIasked if I People dont appreciate whats right near the highway when they
might see bears, he shook his head sceptically. No bears and no aurora, drive, said pilot Tom Bradley, as we soared above the summits of
they need to stop puttingthem on the brochures its hard to see both. thenow tiny-looking peaks that, just minutes earlier, had dwarfed me
As I drove into the tiny town that evening, I began to think he as I drove on the road beneath. Behind these, and revealing themselves
might be right, especially as the only migration I seemed to be slowly as we climbed, lay a teeth-like range of cloud-scratching
witnessing was human all heading south for the impending pinnacles, all capped with snow and surrounded by tongues of
winter.However, as the night fell and the stars came out, I began crevasse-ridden glacier ice. The little plane bumped and rumbled as we
tomake out a green smear on the inky sky. It wasnt a good cut close to the knife-edge ridges, then somehow, magically, wewere
showingbut it was the northern lights, and that gave me hope. granted a hole in the clouds to enable Tom to skilfully land atthe foot
of Mount Logan Canadas highest peak at 5,959m.
Miles to go before I sleep Were standing on the largest non-polar ice field in the world,
The following morning, as I left for Kluane National Park, a black bear saidTom as we jumped out of the plane. I felt the wind cut through
strolled casually across the road in front of the car and Iscreeched to my layers of clothing with a biting nip. Theres 700m of ice beneath
a halt to watch its big brown bottom bound into the forest, a wide our feet youve got enough water here to fill every lake and river in
green plastered to my face. Further in I spied moose, while trumpeter Canada, and all of North Americas highest mountains with the
swans swam on the little lakes that glowed amber and purple in the exception of Mount McKinley are right around us.
I passed the International Boundary and into the USA. Here the
landscape opened up into wide valleys with russet-coloured peaks
ahead and mark the trees with blazes to show the route, she Delta Junction, where a simple post informs drivers that theyve
explained. It was so cold (the route was built between March and survived the Alaska Highway at this: Mile 1,422. The gift shop was
November), he said that by the time he took his breakfast from the already closed for the season, so I didnt linger and instead headed
messtent to his seat, the egg was frozen to the plate. onto Fairbanks, where I could drop off the car and catch the
Despite the milder autumn air, I shivered. Even walking the woods AlaskaRailroad down to Anchorage for my flight home.
close to the road felt wild. It was hard to imagine what it would have The total train journey takes 12 hours, so I decided to break it in
been like cutting this route in winter with no one to follow. Talkeetna, a tiny but hip townwhere the mayor for the past
15 years has been Stubbs the Cat, a rather-pleased
Journeys end looking feline. Thetime it took to get there passed
I gained an hour the next morning as I passed the quickly as the tracks cleaved their way through
International Boundary and crossed into the USA. mountain passes, over gorges and through the
Here the landscape opened up into wide valleys tundra of Denali NP, where moose and bear
with russet-coloured peaks either side. Shingle watch on as you clatter through.
rivers trickled under bridges, most of which dated Finally, I found myself wandering the pretty
back to the time of the highways construction. streets of the town, where the wilderness of the
Reaching the small town of Tok (pronounced woods never sits far from the pavements.
toke as in Tokyo Camp so called by officers I stumbled into a clearing where I discovered
building the road here in the 1940s), I was greeted a memorial to climbers lost on Alaskas Mount
by a Main Street offering an array of husky sled rides, McKinley (aka Denali). It seemed afitting end to my
hunting shops and a wooden case with a stuffed moose journey on the trail of Alaska and the Yukons trailblazers. It
inside. While in my cabin that night, Iheard the dogs of alocal was a reminder of the spirit required to come to the furthest reaches
outfitters howling at the moon it may have all the trappings of a of North America and attempt anything, whether climbing
well-served tourist spot but this place still felt deliciously remote. mountains, building a road or cutting a footpath. Those whocame
My final day on the highway took me through more dramatic and those who lived here were true pioneers. And thanks to the
landscapes and deposited me, with very little fanfare, into the town of Alaska Highway, for a few short days, I got to be one too.
When to go
Anchorage, Alaska (USA; 16.5 hours, with
a stopover inIceland). All passengers are
HIGHWAY HIGHLIGHTS
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
eligible to stopover in Reykjavik for up to
seven days; if done on the outbound 1 Cycling the Tony Knowles
Coastal Trail, Alaska
foot of Mount Logan Canadas highest
peak. Prices from C$325pp (200).
5
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SOUTH
EAST
T R I P
ASIA P L A N N E R
Fuming mountains, iconic temples, wild forests, electric
cities, classic beaches Here's how to get the most out
of ultra-diverse, otherworldly South-East Asia
WORDS ALEX ROBINSON
Bright in Bangkok
The Wat Arun
Temple appears
illuminated at
sunset, Thailand
South-East Trip Planner
B
ali to Bangkok. It didnt look that far on the map.
But I had no idea, and what a blessing that turned Tout
IBET
BHUTAN
NEPAL
to be. Arriving unprepared, with just a few hundredMt East China
dollars and a ticket home in my pocket, was the best
Everest CHINA Sea
INDIA
preparation for a long but unforgettable journeyBANGLA-
on
DESH TAIWAN
bumping buses, clanky boats, jeeps and trains
I N D I
through a region of astonishing diversity of towering temples topped A MYANMAR Hong Kong
(BURMA) Hanoi (Special Admin.
with Buddhas and Blade Runner cities, of smoking Mordor landscapes, LAOS Region, China)
idyllic palm tree-shaded beaches and fish-teeming reefs. Bay
of
On my first night in Ubud I joined an established travellers trail Bengal Yangon Hoi An
across Java, Sumatra and Malaysia into the Thai islands. I made THAILAND
countless friends along the way. There was Naomy on a jungle hike in Bangkok
search of orangutans in Bukit Lawang. And Glen laughing under the CAMBODIA
Andaman PHILIP
stars in a beach bungalow in Ko Pha Ngan. And Rashida, the concierge Sea VIETNAM
in a Singapore five-star who allowed me to take my camera up to the Andaman Is. Saigon
(India) Sulu
presidential suite for a magical view of the space-age skyline.
SRI South China Sea
I still remember the smells frangipani blossom and sea salt LANKA on a Sea
breeze-warmed Malaysian beach; lemongrass wafting from street-side Brunei
Kuala
food stalls in Chiang Mai; the wintergreen and cajeput oil a masseuse Lumpur
used to soothe my muscles after a hike to see the sun rise behind the MALAYSIA
smoking caldera of Mount Bromo. I remember the taste of tamarind Singapore
Sulawesi
juice after a hot cycle ride through the backstreets of Bangkok; the sight INDIAN INDONESIA
of the ferry chugging past the volcano at Krakatau; the saffron-clad OCEAN
monks holding out their begging bowls in the morning markets Java
Sea
But with South-East Asia, there always seems more to discover Flores
another temple, another city, another route which is perhaps BALI Sea
why I cant keep away. And with bucket-shop-cheap regional air
fares its never been easier to join the travellers trail for as long as
a month or as little as a week. Timor
Sea
AUS
Sweet ride
Motorbike rider
carrying cut sugar
cane with Agung
volcano behind, Bali
Top tip
Stay ahead of the crowds
in Angkor by visiting
Smiling Buddha temples at
Bayon (pictured) immediately
after sunrise when everyone
else is at the main site
Angkor Wat itself.
TIBET
BHUTAN
NEPAL Mt
Everest CHINA
INDIA
BANGLA-
DESH
INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi
Hong K
MYANMAR (Special A
(BURMA) Halong Region, C
LAOS
B
Bay
Vietnam & Cambodia egin in Hanoi whose streets of Chiang
Mai
Siem Reap Sihanoukville Koh Rong shimmering lagoons and over the heady Hai (90 mins, visas on arrival, $30 cash only)
WHY DO IT? With lush landscapes, romantic Van Pass (the caf at the top has wonderful for the jungle-tangled Angkor ruins. INDONESIA
ruins and empty beaches, these neighbouring views) to Hoi An. This is Vietnams Venice Wind up with a few days on unspoilt
countries are as easy to navigate as Thailand where sigh-inducing bridges span canals Koh Rong easily reached by a twice- Java
but cheaper and less touristy. lined with terracotta-roofed houses and daily ferry from Sihanoukville Sea
boatmen in conical hats offer languid river (a 60 min flight from Siem Reap).
INDIAN
Wanderlust April 2017 | 43
Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam,
Malaysia & Indonesia
The whistle
stop trip
DURATION: 21 DAYS
Best for: The highlights
ROUTE: Bangkok Siem Reap Ho Chi Minh
City Kuala Lumpur Yogyakarta Bali
WHY DO IT? The best of South-East Asia at
a bargain price? Yes, its possible with an
ASEAN Airpass (airasia.com; from 130 plus
taxes) covering all major South-East Asian cities
W
ith sizzling street food, twinkling
glass-mosaic temples and sky-bar
sunset city views, Bangkok is
South-East Asias most exhilarating capital.
Stay a few nights, then jet to the jungle-
covered temples and smiling Buddha faces of
Cambodias Angkor temples. Youll need two
60,000 cubicSea
metres of
youre lucky) tigers and wild elephants. Stay Buddha statues; and climb the dragon piled rock and carved
five-minutes from the park entrance at Baan staircase on Mount Phousi at sunset for stone
Saranya bungalows (baansaranya.com), then views of temple roofs and rippling mountain AUSTRALIA
bus north to Nong Khai on the border (7 hrs). ridges silhouetted against an orange sun.
INDIA
BANGLA- South-East
TAIWAN
Asia Trip Planner
DESH PACIFIC
INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi OCEAN
days. Fly on to Ho Chi Minh City whereMYANMAR
(BURMA) LAOS Halong
Asia mingles with colonial France. Enjoy Bay
T
his route reveals the real Thailand. So
begin with a plunge into old Bangkok
on a stroll through the marigold
market on the banks of the Chao Phraya
River. Visit Chinatown and the solid-gold
Buddha in Wat Traimit before catching the
night train to Sukhothai Thailands
ancient capital (7hrs to Phitsanulok station,
40 minutes by taxi). Spend a day wandering
the bird-filled Historical Park past
crumbling chedis (stupas) and giant Buddhas.
Then its back on the train to Chiang Mai
(7hrs). Three days is enough for Thailands
northern capital with an excursion up Doi
TIBET Inthanon and a trek to hill-tribe villages
BHUTAN or a spot of whitewater rafting. Then youll
NEPAL Mt
Everest be ready for Ko Pha Ngan (forCbackpacker
HINA
beach bungalows, 1hr 45 mins flight to
INDIA
BANGLA- Koh Samui and 30mins boat) or Koh Tao
DESH
(for reef snorkelling or diving, 75 mins
IN DIA Mandalay
boat ride from Ko Pha Ngan).
Hanoi
Hong
MYANMAR (Special
(BURMA) Halong Region,
LAOS Bay
Chiang
Mai
Hue
Yangon Sukhothai Hoi An
THAILAND
Bangkok
CAMBODIA
Siem
Reap
Andaman Koh VIETNAM
Sea Tao
Ho Chi
Ko Minh City
Pha (Saigon)
Ngan
SRI
LANKA
George Town
Wanderlust April 2017 | 45
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA
Myanmar
The road to A
llow a day for the old capital
Yangon; theres only one site of real
Andaman
Siem
Reap PHILIPPINES
Crossing over Sea
The blazing sun VIETNAM Ho Chi
sets over U Bein Minh City
(Saigon) Sulu
Bridge, Amarapura SRI Sea
LANKA
George Town Celebes
Kuala Lumpur MALAYSIA Sea
Singapore
Sulawesi
INDONESIA
Java
Sea
Flores
Sea
Arafura
INDIAN Sea
OCEAN Timor
Sea
AUSTRALIA
did you
know?
Mawlamyine is the
setting for Kiplings poem
Mandalay and that
George Orwell worked
as a policeman in the city
in the 1920s.
t Mekong
Explore the verdan
Delta by bicycle
tuk tuk
Visit Angkor Wat by
Experience real Vi
etnamese
estay
life in a local hom
Small group journeys No single supplements* 19 years experience Expert local guides Unrivalled knowledge & expertise
A
Ta i w a n & T h e P h i l i p p i n e s TIBET llow two days to visit high-tech
BHUTAN East China
The NEPALMt
Everest
Taipei - the half-kilometre-high
Taipei 101 tower and the imperial
INDIA CHINA
Sea
Taipei
undiscovered Chinese
BANGLA-
Museum
DESH
treasures at the National Palace
before catching the train for two days Taroko
Gorge
Hualien
TAIWAN
countries INDIA
in Hualien (2 hrs 30 mins) the gateway to the
Mandalay
spectacular Taroko Gorge. Hike andHanoi
MYANMAR
bike this
Hong Kong
(Special Admin.
Region, China)
3km-deep marble
(BURMA)canyon, whichLAOScuts intoHalong
the
Bay
DURATION: 2 WEEKS islands central mountains,
Chiangthen move on to
Mai
Best for: Coral reefs Manila (via Taipei, 2 hrs 15 mins flight). Hue Banaue
and canyons Yangon
An afternoons enoughTHAILAND
to see the colonial-
Hoi An
Manila
tinged centre, before boarding a bus into the
ROUTE: Taipei Hualien Taroko Gorge
Bangkok
Cordilleras region driving past the smoking PHILIPPINES
Taipei (again) Manila Banaue Palawan crater of Pinatubo to Banaue (9 hrs).Reap
Siem
Allow
Andaman Ko Rong El Nido
WHY DO IT? Charmed with vibrant local three days to explore
Sea the rice terraces, then
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Sihanoukville
cultures, mountains terraced with rice fly to the beach in El Nido, Palawan (I hour
Sulu
fields, plunging canyons and coral islands,
SRI from Manila) where coral-filled bays Sea
somehow these neighbouring countries LANKA fringed with pearl-white sands are broken
remain quiet and unspoilt. by wind-sculpted rocks and craggy cliffs.
George Town Celebes
Kuala Lumpur
MALAYSIA Sea
Wanderlust April 2017 | 49
Singapore
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INDIA Mandalay
Hanoi
Hong Kong OCEAN
MYANMAR (Special Admin.
(BURMA) Halong Region, China)
LAOS
Chiang
Mai
Bay
South-East Asia Trip Planner
Hue
Yangon Hoi An Maria
THAILAND Islan
Thailand, Malaysia & Singapore Bangkok
Fly two hours south to George Town
G
ive Bangkok three days but avoid the Eat on the street or at Gaggan (eatatgaggan. 50m-high Supertrees and sky walks Arafura
of
backpacker-packedI N Banglamphu
DIAN com) voted Asias best restaurant in the Gardens by the Bay, and be in the Sea Lantern
area. Sukhumvit O C EisAbetter-
Road N 2015 San Pellegrino awards. And shop at Bar (fullertonhotels.com) on Collyer Quay
Timor
located, better-connected (via the Chatuchak weekend market the at dusk toSea see the city burnished gold by the
Airport rail, Skytrain and metro biggest arts-and-crafts dying sun and the lights of the $5.5 billion
network) and better value. Ride smorgasbord in South-East Asia. Marina Bay complex glisten in the water.
AUSTRALIA
Top tip
Dont miss the tangy In Bloom
Long Table Margarita, The illuminations
served with a spectacular at Garden by the
skyline view at Long Table Bay in Singapore
(longtablebangkok.com)
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime
Hot views
Bromo volcano at
sunrise, Tengger
Semeru NP, Indonesia
did you
know?
Orangutans have recently been
shown to have developed their
own language made-up
of tongue-clicks and
lip-squeaks.
INDIA
BANGLA-
Surabaya). Wake at dawn for the best
views of an avenue of fuming TAIWAN
DURATION: 21 DAYS DESH PACIFIC
volcanoes under pink-hued sky.
Best for: IVolcanoes,
NDIA Mandalay
forests Fly to Lombok (1hr from Surabaya)
Hanoi OCEAN
and orangutans MYANMAR
for more spectacular, smoking
(BURMA) LAOS Halong mountains
Bay
and a blissful few days on the white-sand
ROUTE: Kuala Lumpur Cameron Highlands beaches and turtle-spotting opportunities
Ma
Penang Medan Bukit Lawang of the GiliTHAILAND
Yangon Islands off Lomboks north- Isla
Surabaya Mount Bromo Lombok western coast (reached by fast boat
Bangkok
Gili Islands from Senggigi village 1hr by taxi from
CAMBODIA
WHY DO IT? A plane hop through Malaysias Lombok airport). Siam
Andaman Reap VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
central highlands and Indonesias Sumatra Sea
Ho Chi
and Java islands offers the pick of South-East Minh City
(Saigon) Sulu
Asias spectacular landscapes, with pristine Sea
SRI MICR
rainforests and fumingLANKA
volcanoes.
F
Tanah Rata Celebes
rom Kuala Lumpur, catch the bus Medan
Sea
to Tanah Rata in the Cameron
Kuala
Lumpur MALAYSIA
Singapore
Highlands (4hrs) for two days
trekking in primeval tree-fern and pitcher- INDONESIA Sulawesi
plant-filled rainforest. Then catch the bus
to Penang (3 hrs) for a days street and
Java
hillside wandering and a ferry to Medan Sea
in Indonesia; whose forests (reachable Probolinggo
BALI Gili Flores NE
from Bukit Lawang, a 5o minute bus from Islands Sea
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime
Penang) are the best place outside Bromo Tengger Semeru Arafura
National Park LOMBOK
INDIAN
fire-ravaged Borneo to see orangutans. Sea
After two days fly south toOSurabaya
C E A N on
Java (3hrs) the gateway to the impressive
Borobudur Timor
Sea
MACEDONIA
Head east to the beautiful Balkans to spot some of Europes last brown bears in the wild
Think bear watching and you think black Staying in wilderness lodges with Regent
bears in Canada. Or grizzly bears eagerly Holidays, maximise your bear-spotting This tour seamlessly blends
awaiting the salmon run by the rivers of chances while contributing to conservation exhilarating wildlife
Yellowstone National Park in North America projects as you set out into Mavrovo experiences with the
perhaps even sun bears in the jungles of National Park and Pelister National Park. perfect introduction to
Borneo, but very few travellers first thoughts Hike with local wildlife guides to learn about Macedonias history and
leap to Macedonia. wild behaviour and feeding habits, head off- modern-day culture. After
road with park rangers in an all-terrain 4x4 searching for wild brown
With balmy weather, mountainous bears and spending a night in a wilderness hide
vehicle and help to replant pine trees in
landscapes pock-marked with deep blue (optional!), spend a few days exploring the pretty
a prehistoric forest.
lakes and as many old towns as there are lake-side town of Ohrid and the Ancient Roman
archaeological sites, Macedonia slots in Of course, theres more than bears to be archaeological sites at Bitola.
effortlessly with its Balkan neighbours. But spotted as you navigate thick forests and
Ellie Marr
theres one thing Macedonia offers that follow scat or print trails with your wilderness
Balkans Travel Specialist
visitors wont find in Montenegro or Albania guides; Macedonias countryside is still
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to the skies can bag a sighting of eagles or 020 7666 1242
The Eurasian brown bear was once found all
falcons resting on thermal vents as they hunt.
across Europe but now the species range is
limited to Scandinavia, Russia and the eastern Regent Holidays 7-day Bear Watching
regions of the continent including Macedonia. in Macedonia tour costs from 1,765pp
Swimming with
Australia
Searching for humpies ahumpback whale soft toy and G-men figurines to demonstrate
Just sign your life away here, grinned our skipper, Murray, shades thestrict interaction rules the DPaW have implemented to protect
glued to his face, then well get going! He handed me aclipboard the whales. Theyre much more stringent than those put in place
loaded with disclaimer forms, grabbed the helm of Wave Rider forencounters withwhale sharks, which are classified as fish.
andpowered us toward the Humpback Highway that traces the Five swimmers (not ten) are allowed in the water. We must keep
continental shelf. Outside the reef, theres not much distance adistance of 30 metres (instead of three metres), and we are never
between us and Madagascar, he quipped, almost salivating at the allowed to swim with mothers and calves, explained Nat. Also, the
lureof openwater. His company was one of only eleven operators skipper can only make three attempts to get swimmers in the sea with
tobe giventrial licences for humpback-snorkelling trips by the the same pod. After that, well go and find another group. We put the
Department of Parks and Wildlife (DPaW) in 2016. This year, the wellbeing of the creature above everything else. The humpbacks
Previous spread SoulandSeaPhotography/Jana McGeachy This spread Alamy
theyexpectasimilar number, as the trial enters its second term. interact with us on their own terms; its different here than in
Also on board was marine biologist Natalie (Nat) Yeates. As well as otherdestinations around the world, she finished, proudly.
having a couple of freediving championships to her name, she had In Tonga, for instance, the whales tend to be more stationary, which
swum with plenty of megafauna before, but reserved her awefor allows for closer interactions. But operators there will often breakthe
thehumpbacks, her eyes often widening as she described them. rules by slapping the waters surface to attract whales or wedge the
Whale sharks are cool, but theyre predictable, she reasoned, as boat between cows and calves, so that they will have to come closer
Inoticed the image of one tattooed on her foot. But humpies can fight, tothevessel in an attempt to reconnect with each other.
breach, and change direction. Theexperience ismore interactive. At 10.30am, the spotter plane went up a black dot against
But it wouldnt be a free-for-all. To explain the rules, Nat and acrystal blue sky. Jacob, the pilot, is only 19, marvelled Nat.
underwater photographer Jana put on a puppet show, employing Hes acomplete planebuff. He got his license before he could
be resting on a sandbank some way off, he shrugged. We tried to surrounded by swanky homes, a luxury hotel and the Ningaloo Centre
follow the music, but the whale swam away before we could approach. an interpretative space being built on Murat Road that will house
Back on board, I noticed another vessel following us at a distance. research, education and tourism facilities when it opens in April.
Whos that? I asked, jerking my head inthe direction of our aft. What the visitors and local community get out of the tourism
Itsan independent research vessel with biologists on board. isclear, but I wondered about the creatures themselves. On our
firstnight in Exmouth, I met Dr Peter Barnes, the Marine Program on the waves alongside her pup lifted my spirits, but all my
Coordinator for DPaW, and asked him how the whales benefitted. hopes were pinned on tomorrow.
Well, a recent survey has seen humpback numbers recover
from10,000 to 30,000 thanks to stricter whaling regulations, A fleeting meeting
he explained. And a percentage of each swimmers fee goes to Back on land and en route to Sal Salis, our beachside camp in the
help marine park management and education. As yet, theres CapeRange National Park, we passed an echidna crossing the road,
no citizen science programme where visitors upload their itsprotruding snout stained black at the tip like a pencil dipped in ink.
whale photos onto a website to help us ID them but itll be Allaround was fascinating wildlife, except where I wanted it to be.
encouraged in the future. Among the dunes, our luxury tents lay camouflaged against a mix of
Back on the boat, the prospect of a spot of citizen science seemed spinifex mounds and scrub populated with blushing galahs and shy
light years away. All thoughout the day, the radio crackled with wallaroos. As the sea air rustled the lounge tent, we dined on Moreton
reports of just-missed sightings while the crew brimmed with Bay bugs (lobster), red emperor fish and local wine. Just 2km behind
ever-grander tales of encounters Yesterday we saw an orca pod the camp lay Mandu Mandu Gorge, an ancient riverbed that you can
attack and eat a tiger shark! But as the light faded, so did our chances. trace on foot and is populated by black-footed rock wallabies and
All you can do is ask for some good humpback juju, fossils. But my thoughts were still back out at sea with the whales.
shrugged Nat. I took a swig of Ningaloo Nectar (a local water) The next morning, I was woken by the faltering song of a shrike.
and stared out at the sea. A bottlenose dolphin hydroplaning Iunzipped my tent and saw splashes on the blue horizon. Humpbacks
were breaching. I watched from the beach and hurriedly munched dead ahead were five huge bachelors, their rounded hulks barrelling
mymuesli. It was a good sign. We drove back to the dock and, this straight towards us. I scrambled to pull on my mask and pointed my
time, boarded the Ningaloo Discovery catamaran. Deckhand Rachel face downwards once again. There was one, cruising 30 metres
handed us our equipment. The tabs on your snorkel mouthpiece have below, his white barnacled belly half turned towards me.
no nutritional value, so please dont bite them too hard, she teased. I strained to peer through a soup of zooplankton and saw what Id
Outside the reef, the water morphed from cerulean to indigo, as been yearning for: a Mona-Lisa-esque half smile and one giant wise
theground dropped away to depths of a thousand metres or more. eye trained on me. And then it was gone. I had never been happier to
Something moved on the surface. A scalloped hammerhead, Rachel be ignored by a male, and as we flopped back onto the deck, John,
casually confirmed. The species list out here is as long as a fishing atraveller from the USA, ripped off his mask, exhilaration splashed
line:turtles, dugongs, tiger sharks, minke and Brydes whales and across his face. Time seemed to slow that was such a rush! he cried.
countless dolphins, including a newly classified species only As the engines spluttered into life, I thought how much sweeter
recentlyidentified the Australian humpback dolphin. It was then the experience had been for knowing that our fees had contributed
SoulandSeaPhotography: Jana McGeachy
that a dark shadow glided nearby. A manta ray! someone squealed. to theprotection of these creatures,and how it had been worth the
We threw on our gear, plopped into the ocean and ogled the winged wait tosee a humpback on its own terms. The town of Exmouth has
creature up close, but there were still no suitable whale pods. alotriding on the success of its trial humpback tours. But despite the
By late afternoon we were beginning to lose hope when, suddenly, pressure, its pleasing to see the whales wellbeing is still the most
the call went up: Whales behind us! Group one, go! As we jumped, important part. The future here looks bright, blue and barnacled.
Getting around
2 Turquoise Bay
Billed as one of the top 20 beaches
inthe world and one of Australias best
4 Yardie Creek
Explore the creeks red canyon walls
(pictured above) with Yardie Creek Boat
Temperatures regularly exceed Exmouth is small and easily these squeaky clean sands offer superb Tours (yardiecreekboattours.com.au),
40C, so wear high-factor sunblock at all walkable. Most accommodation options sunbathing and snorkelling. Shuttle bus spotting black-footed rock wallabies
times and a hat. Sharks are present at can arrange transfers to activities. services depart regularly from Exmouth. aswell as turtles and shovelnose rays.
Ningaloo but rarely bother snorkellers.
Further reading
Otherwise, car hire companies such as
Avis, Budget and Europcar have offices
at the airport and Exmouth Taxis
3 Snorkelling and diving
Unlike the Great Barrier Reef,
Ningaloois close to the beach and far
5 Ningaloo Kayak Trail
Trace the new Ningaloo KayakTrail,
which will eventually stretch the entire
& information (+61 409 994 933) can be contacted. more pristine. Stretching for 260km, its lengthof the reef. Exmouth Adventure Co
West Coast Australia (Lonely Planet, 2015) Australias longest fringing coastal reef (exmouthadventureco.com.au) allow you
handy guide with a good overview Accommodation and a major breeding ground for three to paddle part of the route by day, while
www.westernaustralia.com official Options in Exmouth are limited, species of turtle. Strap on a mask and camping on the beach overnight.
tourist board website with a number of caravan parks along the
www.exmouth.wa.gov.au official site coast. The author stayed in the following:
for the Shire of Exmouth Exmouths Mantarays Ningaloo Beach Muiron
www.gocultural.com.au tours and Resort (mantaraysningalooresort.com.au) Indian Ocean Islands
experiences with an Aborigine guide is the best luxury option in town and one
of few upmarket hotels. Doubles from
A$260pn (156), excluding breakfast.
For a spot of glamping outside town,
try Sal Salis (salsalis.com.au), which is
situated on the beach inside Cape Range
NP. A multi-night package costs from
A$1,400pppn (862) and includes all
meals, daily guided wilderness activities,
national park fees and a full days Exmouth
h
swimming with humpback whales.
More online 1
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175 Food and drink
for links to more content In Exmouth, try Whalers
Cape Range
(whalersrestaurant.com.au) atthe Exmouth Sal Salis National Park
ARCHIVE ARTICLES Escape Resort, which reopens in March. 2
Whalewatching in Western Australia Mantarays brasserie (inside Mantarays Turquoise
Issue 157 Ningaloo Beach Resort; see above) is Bay 3
Mandu Mandu
Photography Adventures in Western good for Moreton Bay bugs (a type of Gorge
Digital-Mapping.co.uk; Dreamstime
WILDLIFE WORLDWIDE
03300 292 243
INSPIRE@STEPPESTRAVEL.COM
CATALONIA
THE LAND OF BARCELONA
Win flights to Barcelona and accommodation in
a charming rural hotel in Catalonia for two
T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E
WET&WILD
Its not only humpbacks you can swim with from pigs to penguins,
theres a world of unusual marine life you can encounter in the water
Pigs then forgotten. Today, a family of 20 now the odd titbit (which is now banned) at which
survives towards the north of the Bahamas point you can go the whole hog and join them.
WHERE? Big Major Cay (Pig Island), Bahamas central Exuma strip of islands. There they SEE THEM: Year-round. These local celebs arent
Yes pigs. Legend has it these lucky porkers snuffle in the surf and flop into the ocean at the going anywhere, with day trips from hub Nassau
were dumped on this uninhabited island by sound of an outboard motor, having learned or closer Staniel Cay to Big Major Cay. Hurricane
sailors who treated it as a handy larder and long ago that passing boats usually throw them season (JuneNovember) is best avoided, though.
Sardines
Pink river dolphins
WHERE? Moalboal, Philippines
Unlike the famous summer sardine run off WHERE? Anavilhanas National Park, Brazil
South Africas eastern coast, the sardines of Lying 75km upstream from Manaus, along the
Moalboal can be seen year-round by visitors to Rio Negro, the Anavilhanas river archipelago is
the south-west side of Cebu Island in the home to the Amazons endangered pink river
central Philippines. This is one of natures dolphins, a creature that local fishermen still
marvels, as the fish travel in vast, contorting sadly hunt for use as bait. To get close to them
clouds, blotting out the waters less than 30m in the wild, youll need to visit the flutuante dos
off Panagsama beach. And thanks to the botos (dolphin float) at Novo Airo, a
excellent sea clarity, snorkelling gets fine views government conservation project that allows
while freediving as little as 5m can put you in visitors to bob (but not swim) within touching
the heart of the cloud. distance of these amazing mammals.
SEE THEM: Year-round, though May to October SEE THEM: Year-round. But try to tie any visit in
is typhoon season. Alternatively, a new, huge with dry season (May-December), when travel is
sardine family has been discovered off the easier and more of the islands are revealed.
coast of Tangnan, on nearby Panglao Island.
Beluga whales
WHERE? Churchill, Canada
Every summer, when the ice of Hudson Bay breaks up, around 50,000
beluga whales arrive off the coast of remote Churchill to breed and feed in
the bay. At which point, you can don a drysuit and dive into the chilly
waters to join these friendly, often curious cetaceans, who frequently
follow Zodiacs as they make their way out.
SEE THEM: Tours run from late July to August before the bay freezes over
again and the whales risk getting trapped. Trips often combine whale
swimming with buggy tours of the tundra, to spot the native polar bears that
Basking sharks Churchill is famous for.
Marine iguanas
WHERE? Galpagos Islands, Ecuador
The Galpagos teems with unique marine life,
from endemic sea lions to the only penguins
found north of the equator. But none quite match
the marine iguana for sheer weirdness even
Charles Darwin called them hideous looking.
Despite being the only sea-going lizard on the
planet, they live on land, diving the shallows off
African penguins the islands to feed on algae, where most
swimmers will encounter them.
WHERE? Cape Town, South Africa SEE THEM: Year-round, with Tortuga Beach on
False Bays Boulders Beach is famed for Santa Cruz island and the algae-rich pastures of West Indian manatees
its colonies of African penguins a bird Isabela islands Tagus Cove popular spots for
now sadly endangered after numbers fell seeing large numbers of marine iguanas WHERE? Florida, USA
from 1.5 million in the early part of the (sometimes hundreds) and good for swimming. Around 6,000 West Indian manatees summer
20th century to some 22,000 breeding in the warm waters of Floridas Gulf Coast,
pairs today. No tours are required here, ambling its shallows and grazing for up to
just head to the beach youll hear their eight hours a day. Slow, curious and gentle,
distinctive braying long before you see theyre ideal companions for snorkellers, with
them and take a (chilly) dip. They often north-west Floridas Crystal River the only
swim quite close, but dont touch their place you can legally swim with these
beaks are unforgiving. creatures, paddling its warm (22C)
SEE THEM: The colony lives year-round in spring-fed waters in peace.
the bay, but spend much of September SEE THEM: Between November and March is
Alamy; Dreamstime; Getty
and October feeding out at sea, lessening high season for manatees in Florida, though a
chances of a watery encounter. small population of mothers and calves can be
seen year-round at Crystal Rivers Kings Bay.
MASTERCLASS
Hangin on
Hadrian
Britains
favourite wall
see p76
Alamy
F
or many travellers, the thought instead of exhausting? And how can we of Camping With Kids. Throw a nice big
of bringing the family along avoid screaming at one another? Sunday lunch for everyone and get chatting
on their journeys is a real about where you want go and what you
bubble-burster a tension Plan for the whole want to do. That builds up excitement. This
headache of the whining or With so many different pockets of family way, youll be able to gauge everyones limits
the infirm. However, members to cater for, it can be tricky to know and draw on their ideas to put together a trip
multi-generational trips (three or more where to start with a multi-gen trip. Its worth that has things which will appeal to everyone.
generations) are becoming more common, getting the ball rolling well in advance You need to remember everyones
with tour operators reporting more family (roughly a year) so you can suss out different physical capabilities, adds Carmen
groups booking their itineraries. everybodys availability. Then, nail down Sognonvi, from Top Flight Family
But while travelling with those closest to us a date and make sure you all stick to it. When (topflightfamily.com). With your family
can deepen our travel experiences and our it comes to the actual decision making, ranging from young children to
relationships, keeping everyone happy is inclusive should be the operative word. grandparents, its important to make sure
a tricky juggling act. So, how do we ensure Get the whole family involved in the there are activities they can all manage.
that our first big family trip is enriching, planning, advises Simon McGrath, author Rural retreats in Spain are a good first family
Case study
Test the water with a family day trip. That way, you
have a clearer idea of everyones interests, energy KATIE MAUNDRELL
Reader Katie explains how she got
levels and, crucially, tolerance for each other through a multi-gen trip unscathed
How did you plan a
multi-generational trip?
I think the key for us was
trip, with epic landscapes for walks, wine for different family members to do, your trip delegating different jobs
estates for the adults and open space for should feel much more fluid. to different people. My
youngsters to enjoy. Home rentals in your family live all over the country, so to get
own country are always a winner too, while Keep the peace everyone to one airport at the same time
places where meals are included avoid Its inevitable on family trips: arguments will can prove difficult. You need to set a date
frequent disputes over payment. flare up at least once. When things get and stick to it. Choose one person to be in
If youve never been on a multi-gen trip a little heated, know when to head off for charge of flights and arranging special
before, planning so far in advance also means some quiet time, suggests Simon. Avoid requirements at airports this is crucial if
you have time to test the water, by embarking bringing up sensitive family subjects they you have people who arent very mobile.
on a family day trip or weekend away can wait for another day back at home. Similarly, its also good to organise
beforehand. That way, you have a clearer Setting guidelines is an easy solution to transport at the other end in advance too.
idea of everyones interests, energy levels preventing awkward situations. For example, How do you balance everyones
and crucially, tolerance for each other, people may have daily routines they need to different demands and interests?
which you can then factor into the planning. stick to, such as childrens bedtimes, or be We stick to activities that everyone can
early risers. Its important to communicate, join in with. Although we all have
Have your own space adds Carmen. When youre together for different interests, everyone enjoys
Just because youre all away together, it such an intense amount of time, by talking to going on a sightseeing tours of different
doesnt mean you have to live in each others each other you can avoid things blowing up. cities and vineyards. When planning, we
pockets 24/7. Whats worked for us But make sure you reunite at some look for things that are accessible for the
is to be really relaxed about stage in the evening to reminisce, very young and very old for example,
whether everyone joins in with
things or not, explains Jae top tip too. We all connect again in
the evening and catch up with
a sightseeing tour that involves
transport, rather than just walking.
Hopkins who climbed Be prepared to be flexible everyone about their day, How do you get the most out of
Mount Kilimanjaro with her with your itinerary at any adds Jae. Theres something multi-generational trips?
mum and son, among many moment things wont really lovely about the post Making sure you organise enough
other multi-gen trips. As long always go to plan. mortem around the dinner inclusive activities, but also allowing
as theres no pressure on people, table, hearing about what enough time for people to relax and
the trip feels seamless and easy. everyones been up to. spend quality time together. For the old
Everyone doing the same thing can and young, travelling can be tiring, so
feel a little like shepherding cattle, especially Capture the memories making sure you have enough breaks
if your family is large. With ages potentially Dont be so preoccupied keeping everyone helps and also allows you to enjoy
ranging from 8-88, its good to include happy that you forget to take a photo. Your quality time. Flexibility is also important:
different activities for specific ages, to break first multi-generational trip should be if someone doesnt feel well then the
up the large group at times. remembered , so get that group shot in front of plans can change quickly.
Everyone will enjoy their time together Uluru or in the Outer Hebrides wild beaches. What different experience does
much more if you allow people to be apart Time spent as a wider family group is a multi-generational trip offer to
sometimes, too, adds Lissa Poirot from precious time together, so make sure you your travelling?
Family Vacation Critic (familyvacationcritic. capture and preserve those memories, says It gives you the chance to do things that
com). This provides opportunities for those Simon. A book with all your images in one you may not do with people your own
not involved to recharge and relax, too. place acts as a nice keepsake and will serve age. Considering activities that other
Dont be afraid to make these spin-off as a nice tool to remember the holiday by at people would enjoy means you
adventures spontaneous as well, especially if future family gatherings (and may be broaden your horizons as well. Its
people are feeling restless a random activity a prompt for further adventures). great to catch up with people you
or spot of relaxation off the cuff can be exciting. Youve probably always wondered what a havent seen for a while and keep
Parents should plan their own day trips trip abroad with the whole family might be the family connection intact.
with the kids to have some breathing space like (and possibly shuddered at the thought). Would you go on another one?
from the wider family circle as well, advises But with a bit of preparation and sensitivity, I would, yes. It was fun and having three
Simon. Grandparents can act as babysitters your experience doesnt have to end in generations together means you have
too, if parents want some alone time. Its arguments quite the opposite. And with so many different experiences.
tricky, but once you strike the right balance any luck, your intrepid travels together
Alamy
between all-inclusive activities and things could even become a family tradition.
Q Q
Im going to Lisbon but Ive got a week to travel
THE EXPERTS want to use a couple of the Outer Hebrides.
days for off-the-beaten- What should I make
track places. Any ideas? sure is on my list of things to see?
George Richardson, via email Sarah Kopik, via email
A A
You dont need to travel far The Outer Hebrides has
to escape the crowds of everything for a perfect
Lisbon. There are some week-long trip, from
wonderful coastal locations within fabulous food, beaches, wildlife,
Mark Rowe
Journalist and author of an hours train or car from Lisbon. archaeology and museums to
Bradt Travel Guides Outer Hebrides About 25km away, Sintra has a great deal of sheer emptiness.
(www.bradtguides.com) a 2km hiking route up to a Moorish Begin on Lewis with the haunting
castle. A 20 min drive from Sintra Callanish stones. Head up the coast
brings you to Praia Grande do to the restored blackhouses of
Rodzio, a fabulous stretch of sand. Na Gerrannan for an insight into
You can fit your palm deep into the traditional island life. Keep going
footprints of dinosaurs left 125 million north to the wilds of Ness where
years ago in the surrounding rocks. a lighthouse guards the most
At the seaside town of Cascais, north-westerly point of Europe.
Sin Pritchard-Jones hire a bike near the station for the Turning south, spend a day in Plan evening meals around the
Himalaya trek organiser and guide, 2km cycle route to Guinchos sandy Stornoway sampling the cafs and menu at Croft 36, where a roadside
co-author of Trekking Annapurna beach. A walking trail (three hours) visit the new Island Museum which hut conceals crab ravioli and
(www.cicerone.co.uk)
leads north to the deserted Praia do houses six Uig chessmen pieces. To mouth-watering cakes. Take the
Abano cove just beyond, and then see where they were uncovered, inter-island ferry across the Sound
up on to wild cliffs. A 9km hike north make for vast Uig sands and explore of Harris. Sit at the back and watch
along coastal paths leads to Cabo the serrated coastal landscape gannets plummet into the sea.
da Roca, known as continental around Mangersta. The community Can you butter up your boss and
Europes westernmost point. caf at nearby Timsgarry has superb take another three days to visit the
At Arrbida Natural Park green food at roadside prices. Uists and Barra? Dine at Caf Kisimul,
Edwina Pitcher hills sweep down to a blue, calm sea Explore the North Harris Hills, Scotlands best curry house and keep
Author of Wild Things perfect for snorkelling. A 30 min drive climbing Clisham (799m) and your boss sweet by taking them back
Publishings Wild Guide Portugal inland are grottoes at Quinta do Anjo; hiking the Postmans Trail from a side of salmon from Barratlantic.
(www.wildthingspublishing.com)
hand-hollowed Neolithic caves. Rhenigidale to Tarbert. Walk to the Mark Rowe, author of Bradts
Stop at the town of Azeito, famous lighthouse on the island of Scalpay Outer Hebrides guidebook
for its cheese and wine. Take and also take the road to Huisinish
Q
a 20 min drive south to Setbal and beach and the golden eagle hide. How fit do I need to be
then a short ferry ride and cross over Youll need two days for for the Annapurna
to the Tria peninsular (and look out Luskentyre. Beaches at Scarista and Circuit and what
for dolphins). There are many fishing Northton will make you catch your training would you recommend?
Ben Box harbours feast on the days catch breath. For contrast, visit the Sebastian Fernando, via email
A
South American expert and author at Carrasqueira or Alccer do Sal. moonscape of boulders and fjord-like A reasonable level of
of Footprint Handbooks Patagonia Edwina Pitcher, author of Wild inlets on Harriss east coast or visit physical fitness is
(www.footprinttravelguides.com) Guide Portugal (Wild Things) medieval St Clements at Rodel. necessary, but you dont
Classic Cascais
Lisbons day trips are
easy to access and
worth the effort
Insiders Guide to...
SWEDEN
Paolo Bonato, product manager
at adventure tour operator
Exodus (exodus.co.uk), shares
his icy pastimes, best boltholes
and how Stockholm shines in the sun...
WINTER WONDERS: Deep inside the Arctic Circle, Lappeasuando is the
perfect base to enjoy a range of winter activities like dogsledding,
snowshoeing and ice fishing in frozen lakes all with the added
bonus of the extraordinary northern lights!
COOL STAYS: Staying in an ice room at the ICEHOTEL is one of the
most incredible stays you could have, anywhere. Everything around
you looks so pristine. Every guest is provided with some serious
winter overall gear and boots to wear throughout. You dont feel the
cold at all, even if its -20C outside! Try having dinner at the
Homestead restaurant, a charming timber building built in 1768,
a short walk from the ICEHOTEL it offers a rustic la carte menu in
a welcoming and homely atmosphere.
STOCKHOLM SUMMERS: Although the Swedish capital is
a year-round destination, the city truly comes alive in the summer
months. From May to early September the Swedes pour out onto
the streets, enjoying fika (meaning to have coffee) in one of the
pavement cafs, cycling, strolling in the park or taking a dip.
Stockholm is built on a series of islands and is the perfect city to
enjoy the water. You can swim right in the heart of the city, hire
a kayak or hop aboard a traditional steamer out into the archipelago.
Portuguese coast hidden beaches, caves Rachel Bonny, via email back by park rangers.
A
The immense popularity The CONAF website (www.
and castles just an hour from Lisbon of Torres del Paine parquetorresdelpaine.cl) has a map
National Park has showing the trails and gives a link to
led CONAF, the Chilean national the page for reserving their campsites.
need to be a marathon runner. Much hills, if that is possible, for a few parks department, to introduce Enquiries locally can be made at the
will depend on acclimatisation and weekends before the trek. That a new system for the two most CONAF office in Puerto Natales,
stamina before crossing the Thorong might be difficult for city dwellers, popular treks, El Circuito Macizo Baquedano 847; all CONAF
La pass allow sufficient time for so take the stairs whenever Paine (or O or Grande) and the addresses are given on the website.
this and do not rush. To this end, we possible. Have you tried walking up W, to limit numbers and reduce For Vrtice and Fantstico Sur, book
do not recommend taking transport the Shard? Some people run or jog degradation. These treks take through their websites, or at their
beyond Chame as the slow progress before treks, but be careful if this is seven and five days respectively. local offices if the web booking
will aid acclimatisation (and the not your normal form of exercise. You must stay at official refuges doesnt work. This only applies (so
scenery is great). It is vitally After this trek, the skys the limit! and campsites along the way. Some far) to the 2016-2017 season. To
important not to go too fast, even if Sin Pritchard-Jones and Bob campsites are run by CONAF and enter the park without trekking, or
youre sure you have no symptoms Gibbons, co-authors of Cicerones are free; some campsites and the to do day treks, you do not need
of altitude sickness. Take your time Trekking Annapurna guidebook refuges are run by private advance reservation.
and soak in the atmosphere of the companies, Vrtice The best advice, if visiting
Q
high Himalaya. Using trekking poles Now Torres Del Paine (www.verticepatagonia.com) and between 1 October to 30 April (high
for support is recommended. National Park has Fantstico Sur (www.fantasticosur. season), is to plan and book ahead.
As for training, the best introduced permits, com). Under the new system, Ben Box, co-author of Footprints
Alamy
preparation is to walk up and down whats the best way to get one trekkers have to reserve places to Patagonia guidebook
PHOTOS
cameras, which allow you to take your
device below the waves. Housing with an
optical quality glass port over the lens will
ensure the best possible results. Check the
depth rating of the housing and avoid going
What does it take any deeper with it your device wont enjoy
an encounter with saltwater.
to get a great
underwater shot?
Not as much as you
think, says Steve
Watkins, head judge of
the Outdoor Photographer
of the Year competition
W
hether you are a
committed scuba
diver or simply
enjoy occasionally
donning the mask
on your travels, the
underwater world is a compelling
environment to photograph. Swede Johan
Sundelin took this image of California sea
lions while snorkelling off Santa F Island,
in the Galpagos Islands. The real
2 Use a good guide
Photography conditions in the sea are
heavily influenced by the underwater
challenge of capturing this emotive image topography of the area and prevailing
was avoiding attracting the attention of the weather and tide conditions. Using local,
potentially aggressive alpha male. To do qualified dive guides or joining a dive centre
this Johan needed to lie very still while trip will significantly increase your chances
keeping his wits about him. of seeing impressive sea life and help you to
While colours or the sea life often create be in the right place at the right time for the
the visual impact of underwater images, best light and visibility.
Johans image stood out to the judges
because of its subtlety: the emotional
power comes from the exquisite light and
surrounding shadows focusing attention
on the tender moment captured.
5Get close
The way light refracts through water
means that subjects below the surface
appear larger to our eyes than they actually
are. If you shoot from a normal distance,
the sea life in the resulting images will be
excruciatingly small in the frame. Closer
is always better when it comes to
TRAVEL
CLINIC
with Doctor Jane
W
hether INTO THE WILD long venomous spiky tail. At best,
climbing this will be incredibly painful; at
into a With the growth in popularity of worst, attacks can be fatal.
secluded wild swimming, new dangers are The venom of the stingray is
forest pond emerging. Estuarine crocodiles inactivated by immersion in hot
or swimming with humpbacks (or salties) have attacked (not scalding) water. Prevention
off the Western Australian coast, significant numbers of people in is better than cure, though.
it is often the lure of the unknown South-East Asia and Australia. When wading in the waters of
that draws us into the water. Known for their aggression, on the tropical Americas, be sure to
Paradoxically, it is also what goes average, salties kill two people in shuffle your feet and the stingray
unseen that people imagine poses Australia every year. will usually swim away. This is
the biggest threat to our safety. As with all water hazards, take a sensible tactic to adopt
But while it is easy to imagine local advice: there are frequently elsewhere in the world, too, as it
piranhas or sharks lurking warning signs in Australia to may also help to deter other
beneath, how likely is a dangerous mark where there have been bottom-dwelling fish, such as the
encounter while swimming? crocodile attacks. Such incidents venomous stonefish (found in easy to swim into these creatures.
The USA has suffered the most are most likely when people pose the Indo-Pacific region) and the Fortunately there are only
recorded shark attacks on Earth, close to an animal or clean freshly viciously painful but unlikely to a handful of species that are
claim Floridas International caught fish near the water. be deadly weever fish, which are potentially fatal, which account
Shark Attack File, yet the stats In the Americas it is especially known to dwell in both for around 30 deaths a year. Many
show you are around a thousand worth being aware of stingrays. European and British waters. of these occur in the warm waters
times more likely to drown in its Whether resting in the sandy around northern Australia and
waters than be attacked by shallows off a beach or at the PASSIVE DANGERS South-East Asia. Some species are
a shark. Worldwide, on average, bottom of a river, they can be hard huge but the highly venomous
there are less than 70 shark to spot. But if you stand on one, it Jellyfish stings are a more Irukandji jellyfish, found off the
attacks a year and, of these, is likely to lash out at you with its common problem, as it is all too coasts of Florida and Australia,
around six prove fatal. The threat is only the size of a fingernail.
of a great-white attack might be Unfortunately, first aid
a fine travellers tale, but the Live coral looks beautiful but innocuous it is measures differ depending on the
facts say that it is the physical jellyfish species, so prevention is
environment which is most likely not look but do not touch; after contact with the only cure-all. One technique
to harm us. Still, there are plenty
of other dangers to consider.
coral it is best to irrigate the skin with vinegar practised in Australia is to swim
while wearing two pairs of
+
Travel health experts
for over 30 years.
+
More than 170 UK clinics.
+
Appointments to suit you
across the network.
+
No itinerary too simple
or too complex.
Use our free vaccine checker,
find your nearest clinic
and book online at:
www.masta-travel-health.com
or call 0330 100 4200.
TAKE CARE
A much more common hazard
for snorkellers and swimmers is
sunburn. It is best to be covered
or apply plenty of sunscreen at
frequent intervals, as getting
painful sunburn, just once every
two years, can triple your risk of
melanoma skin cancer, cautions
Cancer Research UK.
Even close to home there are
inviting waters to plunge into.
Remember that these can be
surprisingly cold, and if you are
unused to wild swimming, the
womens tights: one worn and wash carefully, removing raw sewage without knowing, so shock can literally take your
conventionally, the other worn on any pieces or debris. Even slight if the water looks very murky, it breath away and even stress
the upper body and arms, having scrape wounds are often slow to is wise to bathe elsewhere. the heart. And never dive head
previously cut a head hole into heal. Wear protective footwear Sometimes tropical seas can first into unknown waters.
the gusset. Jellyfish are more likely when swimming to reduce the look red because of algal blooms In general, dont be afraid to
to endanger beach swimmers chances of venomous fish stings precipitated by pollution. These ask around. Always heed local
when there is a strong wind and coral pieces penetrating the red tides can cause eye advice and, if adventuring alone,
blowing from the sea towards soles of your feet. irritation, even to those walking let someone know your plans
land; local lifeguards are often along the beach, while swimming beforehand. You can easily be
able to issue warnings. THE UNSEEN in such seas will make you itch. cut off by tides, swept out to sea
Live coral looks beautiful but Inland waters are also prone to or carried along a fast-moving
innocuous it is not look but do The amount of salt in sea water pollution, contamination and stream. Rescues more likely if you
not touch. Fire coral (which is is not strong enough to be algal overgrowth. The water may inform others of your plans.
actually a closer relation to the antiseptic: if you take a gulp of look green and is likely to be
jellyfish than coral) hides polluted water, you can contract frothy. Swallowing any may lead Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth is always
a nasty sting; after contact with hepatitis A and other filth-to- to a stomach upset and, as with surprised at the objects that skulk
coral, or even sponge, it is best to mouth microbes. It is possible red tides, it may also cause eye underwater and can snag the
Dreamstime
irrigate the skin with vinegar to end up plunging into dilute and skin irritation. unwary; www.wilson-howarth.com
Instant Expert
5 of the best
DRINKING SPOTS
IN LATIN AMERICA
Hadrians Wall
Expert bartenders from across Why are we talking about a wall? How is its anniversary being celebrated?
South America reveal their go-to
Its not just a wall, its Britains largest Many museums along the wall will be hosting
bars for a refreshing tipple
surviving remnant of Roman rule not to collections of Roman armour and weapons as
about chope (draft) in Rio, Shields Arbeia Fort recalls Roman life in its
andthis institution (dating from pomp; and the longest surviving stretch of
1956) serves it better than wall is found at Birdoswald Fort in Cumbria.
anywhere else, as locals You can even follow a 135km path that
rollingin from a day on the threads its way between Wallsend and
Copacabana would attest. Bowness-on-Solway, walking the length of
4 W Lounge,
Santiago, Chile
A place for style-minded
the wall in its entirety through some
beautiful countryside.
Adapted
from Where East meets west
Bartenders Drink You might not be able
(Phaidon, 17) to walk on the wall
these days, but you can
by Adrienne trace its route from
Stillman. onecoast to another
Out now.
Getty
T r a v e l l e r s G u i d e To . . .
WALKING Xtra
Wanderlust Xtra
Gives You More!
TROUSERS
Scan where you see the
Wanderlust Xtra icon
to buy your trousers now
From strolling up mountain peaks to shimmying into village pubs, a good pair of
trousers will take your from tours to trails and planes to paths in supreme comfort
FABRIC
Ripstop fabric is always a great choice,
and means the trousers wont tear far if
FIT
When trying on trousers, its always worth
snagged. Also look for agood UPF rating,
seeing how they fit when both standing
as this offers protection from the sun
and sitting make sure the waist doesnt
15 ispretty decent but 50+ is the best.
go down too low atthe back when sat,
andthat the legs dont riseup too far either.
POCKETS
Great if you need them, heavy if you
WEIGHT dont select the model with the right
You dont want your trousers to weigh amount for you. Youll notice some
you down literally so look for a trousers have hidden security pockets
lightweight, durable non-crease fabric that can be great if travelling to places
that rolls down small and dries quickly. where pickpocketing is a particular issue.
ADDED KNEES
EXTRAS With trousers, you want to make sure
Some may come infused with insect you have good freedom of movement.
repellent (as either a lifetime guarantee The knees should be articulated and
or for a limited number of washes), cut in such a way to make this happen.
which can be a very handy feature.
SEAMS
Pay attention to these, making sure your
trousers dont have any extra stitching in
places that could rub against your skin
when in hot countries or while out walking.
VALUE
BUY
ALPKIT OEX
Karoo/ Tonka 40/45 Baru Tech Trouser 45
www.alpkit.com www.gooutdoors.co.uk/oex
The test: At the budget end of the The test: A fairly new brand made by
scale comes this quick-drying, fast- the people behind Go Outdoors, its no
wicking trouser with a high UPF of 50+. shock theyre taking on the budget
The waistband is lined with a soft fabric Xtra Xtra market. And by using a robust Ripstop Xtra Xtra
for comfort, and the two open pockets fabric with a water-repellent coating,
at the front are mesh-lined, soyou theyre doing apretty good job of it, too.
dont get too hot. Inside one ofthe The knee is articulated, with panels for
front pockets is a hidden zipped comfort, and the waistband is covered
security pocket. Theres also azipped pocket further down the leg and with a soft fabric. There are two zipped pockets on the front and one on
two open back pockets. The knees are articulated, to help you walk the back, which is handy though not discreet (which is a shame for
easier, and you can even roll up the legs and button them to allow for travellers). There is also no UPF rating, although the weight of the fabric
athee-quarter length. They were the lightest on test (248g; size 12), so likely offers some protection, which brings us to the downside. Tipping
luggage friendly but a little more stretch would have made them ideal. the scalesat 448g (size 12), these are the heaviest on test by a fair way.
The verdict: A good price for high sun protection and multiple features The verdict: A great low-priced option for hill-walking, but they do lack
at a good weight mean this easily takes our Value Buy accolade. some basic features that would have made them ideal for travellers.
With an impressive 50+ UPF, they also is super stretchy, wrinkle-resistant, quick-
boast a good level of sun protection. drying and comes with a UPF of 50+.
Two mesh-lined open pockets are The waistband has a mesh strip, to help
found at the front as well as azipped
keep you cool; the two front pockets are
security one. There are poppered pockets on the leg (one) and back also mesh-lined its just a shame there
(two), though the studs can be uncomfortable. Theres also a reasonable wasnt a discreet security pocket. The stretchy fabric offers good
amount of stretch in the leg, while the fabric is durable and reinforced freedom of movement, but the placement of the thick seam down the
atthe leg cuffs. The waistband is partially coated and the knee is cut to front of the leg is odd, making them less comfortable when kneeling.
allow movement, but these were the third-heaviest on test (327g; size 12). Weight-wise, they are the second-lightest (256g) on test.
The verdict: A robust pair of trousers with multiple pockets and good The verdict: A soft fabric with some key features and a light weight
features for walkers its just a shame that theyre on the heavier side. itsa pity about the seam placement and lack of secure pockets, though.
CRAGHOPPERS SHERPA
Kiwi Pro Stretch 45 Mirik Pant 50
www.craghoppers.com www.sherpaadventuregear.com
The test: At the same price as The test: These soft Nepalese-made
the OEX model comes this trousers are a mix of cotton and
super-stretchy offering from nylon for durability, and spandex for
Craghoppers. The use of Xtra Xtra stretch. They also have a smarter look, Xtra Xtra
BEST IN
PRAMO ROHAN TEST
Atca Trousers / Maui Trailblazers 85
Trousers 60 www.rohan.co.uk
www.paramo.co.uk The test: You may pay more,
The test: The first thing youll notice but this trouser caters well for
is the fabric. Suitably robust, they travellers. For a start, the fabric
hide aclever feature its trademark Xtra Xtra
is stretchy, quick-drying, Xtra Xtra
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF
THE KINGS
Swedish Lapland isnt all ice hotels, skiing and stargazing
head there in summer and youll discover another world,
trekking one of Europes remotest trails: the Kungsleden
WORDS MARK STRATTON
Charged atmosphere
Two young male
reindeer practise their
fight techniques in front
of Swedish Laplands
scenic summer; (right)
walking through Abisko
National Park to the
mountain station
W
as this the best tea Tourist Federation. In 1902, it began work At an average walking pace, a month is
break in the world? on a hiking trail, a task made easier after required to hike the entire Kungsleden,
We had slipped the arrival of an iron-ore railway that but Id come to trek its remote final
out of our trailblazed across Northern Lapland. The quarter, a section entirely within the
rucksacks and route bore southwards from Abiskos Arctic Circle. Usually, though, all you
flopped onto the mountain station, and throughout the 20th can expect to encounter en route are
coarse beach surrounding Lake Alesjaure. century it was expanded in piecemeal scattered hikers, lots of reindeer and
Across the freezing expanse, the mountains fashion until, by 1975, it had reached as far as a few curious Arctic hares. But I certainly
shone glossy black in the prevailing liquid the Hemavan Ski Resort in Vsterbotten wasnt going to be alone this time.
sunshine, venting waterfalls like tumbling County, 440km south of its starting point.
pearls. And as I sipped my tea the sugar Only then was one of Europes wildest hikes, Making friends
rush from some Jammie Dodgers biscuits the Kungsleden (or Kings Trail), complete, Since 2005, an annual mass hike has seen
kicking in life in the Arctic wilds seemed and it was this that Id come to experience. thousands of walkers trek the final
so simple and pristine. The great thing about the trail is that stretch of the Kungsleden every summer,
In winter, you just dont find moments you get a diverse wilderness encounter, backed up by checkpoints, food stations
like this in Swedish Lapland. In those enthused my local guide, Mikael Nyman, as and medics. Its called the Fjllrven
months, trips here are all about the I checked into Hgalidsskolan outdoors Classic, with entrants typically taking
northern lights, staying in an ice hotel, centre in Kiruna. Birch forests, Swedens five days to complete the 110km route
dogsledding and encounters with reindeers biggest mountains, reindeer, lakes and lots from near Kiruna to Abisko.
(usually christened Rudolph). But in the of wildflowers, he listed enthusiastically. I joined a group of nine fellow hikers
Land of the Midnight Sun, (2,055 completed it in
when the snow turns to
slush and the huskies are I awoke to see reindeers grazing total), led by a rather
famous Yorkshireman
kicking back, Swedens
Arctic north is an entirely
nearby in swirls of mist. A regal called Alan Hinkes: the
only Briton among a select
different prospect.
The summer thaw is
young buck with top-heavy antlers few mountaineers to have
summitted all 14 of the
a siren call to trekkers, owing was a somewhat more divine sight worlds 8,000m-plus
small and alone. Yet I was also excited to When the Singi checkpoint appeared The Tjktja, meanwhile, cavorted down
have the resources to survive in a realm six hours later, the Tjktja River sliced the valley, braiding into channels and
once considered the preserve of grizzled across our path, ushering in the official calving into oxbow lakes. Its a sodden
explorers. Glacial springs catapulted off Kungsleden from the south. Now veering environment, so care is required on the
the mountainsides, delivering pure sources northwards, the trails easy-to-follow narrow boardwalks that sometimes float on
of water, while the springy grass sward markers of red-painted rocks directed puddles like surfboards or tilt like seesaws.
provided a comfy mattress. us along the imperious Tjktjavagge Valley, During long stretches, the trek proved
Soon the hiss of Primus stoves around towards Slka. highly sociable and allowed ample time to
our impromptu campsite chat with my fellow
sounded like a serpents
convention. Should
We passed beneath the summit of hikers. Alan Hinkes had
outdoors tales to top all
I rehydrate game stew or Kartinvare. Amid such grandness others. Oh, the K2 that
cod in curry sauce,
I pondered? The latter won it was hard not to feel tiny, was a right gnarly
mountain, hed casually
the day and proved a delight.
Early the next morning, surrounded by the Arctic and drop in with some
understatement as
I awoke to see reindeers
grazing nearby in swirls of
that was all part of the appeal I endeavoured to keep
up with his bionic stride.
mist. A regal young buck with top-heavy That afternoon, I marvelled at snowy He also put into context the relative
antlers was a somewhat more divine cirques and turquoise-tinged glaciers, and difficulty of hiking the Kungsleden.
sight than my rehydrated chocolate between the mountaintops of After seven or eight of the 8,000m peaks
muesli. The animals loitered all morning Tuolpanjunnjetjkka and Kuopertjkka it wouldve been a good time to stop, he
as we climbed a treeless moorland I glimpsed Swedens highest peak, Kebnekaise began. Nine or ten was pushing my luck,
pockmarked with lakes and scree fans, (2,098m). But this accolade is disappearing and by the time Id nearly finished the 14, Id
Dreamstime; Mark Stratton
fashioning a sort of supersized Lake as fast as Kebnekaises mountaintop glacier psychologically come to terms with the fact
District that would have had is melting, and in a few years its altitude will I shouldve been dead. Our tired limbs
Wordsworth ramping up the hyperbole. likely dip beneath a neighbouring summit. were trifling by comparison, so imagine
Beaming miles
(left to right) Crossing
the planks that ease the
going on the Ladtjo Lake
to Kebnekaise section of
the Kungsleden, in the
company of Alan Hinkes
(centre); wild camping in
Kebnekaise NP
stony plateau stretched ahead, while reindeer herders. The free-roaming herds Arctic Lapland has faces Id never
carrot cupcakes at Tjktja checkpoint set wed seen were building-up their fat considered beyond its familiar wintertime
us up for an afternoon tracing the reserves for winter, when temperatures can thrills. Id like to return one day and walk
meandering Alestno River. From three plummet to around -40C. it on my own, armed with the knowledge
hours out, I could see our projected Crossing an exposed pass, we veered the Kungsleden can probe your spirit and
overnight camp: a small promontory of away from the lakes, passing beneath the fortitude one moment, and the next
huts above the silvery line of Lake 1,154m summit of Kartinvare. Amid such embrace you in euphoric achievement.
Alesjaure, calling to us as we perambulated grandness it was hard not to feel tiny, I may have run out of my elusive cod in
river bends and strode over boardwalks surrounded by the cold indifference of the curry sauce, but I was one happy camper.
2 Haute Route
(FranceSwitzerland, 180km)
4 Via Alta 1 (Italy, 120km)
A ten-day adventure in the Dolomites
that features some hair-raising altitude
the No91 bus (SEK250/22) or by rail. Alpine trail that doubles as arather epic hiking between Dobbiaco and Belluno.
Further reading
& information
Bothbuses run throughout the winter
and summer seasons (see When to go);
cross-country winter ski route between
Chamonix and Zermatt (pictured). 5 West Highland Way
(Scotland 154km)
Abisko to Kvikkjokk: Kungsleden North
(codyduncan.com) by Cody Duncan
e-book guide to the northern Kungsleden
visit ltnbd.se for timetables and dates.
Cost of travel
3 Camino de Santiago
(FranceSpain, 778km)
This pilgrimage trail has many routes,
Scotlands popular long-distance yomp
between Milngavie and Fort William skirts
stunning lochs and ends near Ben Nevis.
8,000 Metres (Cicerone, 2013) by Alan Sweden is more expensive than the
Hinkes thrilling tale of an epic quest UK, but wild camping and rations on the NO
0 15km
SW RWA
www.fjallraven.co.uk/classic trail site walk will offset costs. Pre-hike stays cost ED Y
EN
www.swedishtouristassociation.com from around 100 for a double. Food prices Abisko
information on huts and the Kungsleden at the STF huts (see below) start at 1.35
www.swedishlapland.com official for acup of coffee and 5.50 for a beer. Abiskojaure
Swedish Lapland tourist board
www.visitsweden.com tourist board Accommodation
On the trail are a number of STF
huts(swedishtouristassociation.com),
providing bunkhouse-style stays with Alesjaure
More online cafs, shops and saunas. Bed fees from
Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/175 SEK460 (42); no pre-booking is required Tjaktja
for links to more content: but they can be busy at peak summertime.
Camp Ripan (Kiruna; ripan.se/en) has
ARCHIVE ARTICLES arange of rooms and camping to suit all Salka
Hiking in the Worlds Biggest Wilderness: budgets, plus aspa and buffet restaurant. Tarfala
Finlands Taiga Forest issue 122 Twin rooms from SEK1,100 (100).
Kebnekaise
10 Things to Do for Free in Stockholm STF Abisko Mountain Station (Abisko; Singi 3
Kiruna
issue 119 +46 9804 0200) is a rambling complex Nikkaluokta
8 Things You Must Do in Sweden online that includes a hotel, hostel beds and
Alamy, Digital-Mapping.co.uk
Ga Sw um
Summer
rm ed me
in en r
Sa se
tn lf-
on Ice
av dr
iv
e
with the experts
Visit Swedish Lapland this summer
for an experience like no other at
new Icehotel 365. Long activity-
filled days, evening cocktails in the
Ice Bar and sleeping in an ice suite.
Powered by the midnight sun,
Icehotel 365 has to be experienced
to be believed!
View our full collection of holidays
online or call our team.
ABTA No.W050X
BEYOND BELIEF
Beautiful, yet dangerous: there is no more apt symbol for the Arctic region than the polar bear.
Silver Cloud will allow you to see this majestic, iconic creature at close but safe quarters even
from the sanctuary of your suite if you wish. All suites have an ocean view, while most have their
own private veranda. Attended to by your personal butler, you also have the option of being For more information please call 0207 340 0700,
served dinner here; we suspect, however, that you will want to discuss the sights of the day visit silversea.com/expeditions
with your fellow explorers in one of the ships five fine restaurants. or contact your travel agent.
THE WINNERS
The best in travel according to the people who really put in
the legwork you. These are the airlines, companies and
destinations that made your year another one to remember
Wanderlust Xtra
Xtra Gives You More!
Scan where you see the Wanderlust Xtra
icon to reveal more information
on each award winner
TOP COUNTRY:
NEW ZEALAND
New Zealands trademark combo of mountain
scenery, whalewatching, giant glaciers, water-
streaked fjords and sulphur-rich volcanic lands
proves irresistible to you once again.
Thankfully, its a country that more than bears
repeat visits, with avast range of experiences
tobe had. Spy dolphins while cruising majestic
Milford Sound, listen to the creak of the Franz
Josef glacier, spot kiwi birds by moonlight on
Stewart Island and ascend Mount Cook in the
footsteps of Edmund Hillary. The options are
endless andincreasing, with the launch last
year of theMount Taranaki Pouakai Crossing,
torival New Zealands already world-famous
Tongariro day walk. As such, itsdone the
unthinkable and strengthened its grip on this
title with anear-perfect score some good
news following thetragic earthquake that
hit both the Northand South Islands in
November 2016.
Botswana runs New Zealand the closest
its wildlife-rich parks, surprisingly diverse
Kalahari Desert and the watery wonders of
the Okavango Delta are still ahuge draw.
Meanwhile, the new direct flights from London
to Lima that launched last May have given
aboost to Peru, judging by its third-placed
finish (up one place from last year), with Inca
Trail permit limits clearly not dampening your
enthusiasm. Overcrowding isnt an issue (yet)
for Iceland, as it pops up in fourth, while Sri
Lanka appears to be finally emerging from
theshadow of its long civil war and 2004
tsunami, nabbing eighth spot. Regulars
Burma (Myanmar) and Vietnam return to
complete a familiar-yet-new line-up.
Interestingly, if Antarctica (not surprising,
really) or humble Guernsey were countries,
they would have nabbed the crown this year.
RANKING %
1 New Zealand 99.69%
2 Botswana 97.93%
3 Peru 96.92%
4 Iceland 96.67%
5 Japan 96.00%
6 Burma/Myanmar 95.71%
7 Vietnam 95.56%
8 Sri Lanka 95.34%
9 Namibia 95.19%
10 Kenya 95.00%
TOP EQUIPMENT BRAND: PRAMO
Masters of water resistant technology in
jackets and trousers, Pramos rain-repelling Xtra
apparel is your champ when it comes to
outdoor wear for the second year in a row.
Butthe rest of the top ten makes for just as
interesting reading. While Rab finishes in the
top two yet again, serial finalists Berghaus, The
North Face, Jack Wolfskin and Salomon all miss
out this year. Instead, theyre replaced by some
fresh brands on the block and some reappearing
favourites, with Osprey, Sherpa, Smartwool
and Pacsafe making up the chasing pack.
RANKING %
1 Pramo 90.74%
2 Rab 90.62%
3 Osprey 90.54%
4 Sherpa Adventure Gear 89.09%
5 Patagonia 87.83%
6 Arcteryx 87.73%
7 Rohan 86.59%
8 Smartwool 86.36%
9 KEEN 86.02%
10 Pacsafe 85.81%
TOP TV
OR RADIO
PROGRAMME:
JOANNA
LUMLEYS
JAPAN
The ever-busy, ever-popular Simon Reeves
four-year reign at the top of this list has
come to an end. But who better to usurp
the new Palin than the absolutely fabulous
(pun intended) Joanna Lumley, whose
travels around Japan had you hooked.
Elsewhere, Michael Portillo makes
a triumphant return tothe rails, while
newcomer Richard Ayoades fresh, funny
take on popular city breaks seems to
have really struck a chord with you, too.
Previous page: Alamy This Spread: 4Corners; ITV/ Burning Bright Produciton; Paramo
RANKING
1 Joanna Lumleys Japan
2 Great Continental Railways Journeys
3 Greece with Simon Reeve
4 Travel Man: 48 Hours In...
5 Planet Earth II
6 Walking the Himalayas
7 Rick Steins Long Weekends
8 Coast
9 New Lives in the Wild
10 Arctic Live
FREEDOM
TO MOVE
The NEW Pramo Velez Jacket has been created for
very active people who enjoy a wide range of outdoor
activities. Its versatile, innovative design is combined with
outstanding high performance materials.
The unique directional Nikwax Analogy
waterproof fabric system is ready for all
weathers, and manages condensation better
than any membrane.
RANKING %
1 Singapore Airlines 92.48%
2 Emirates Airline 91.58%
3 Air New Zealand 88.28%
4 Etihad Airways 87.72%
5 Cathay Pacific 87.56%
6 Qantas 86.43%
7 Swiss International Air Lines AG 86.32%
8 Qatar Airways 86.23%
9 Thai Airways International 86.04%
10 Malaysia Airlines 85.00%
Xtra
TOP EMERGING
DESTINATION:
RWANDA
For anyone who recalls the 1994 Rwandan
genocide, it can be difficult to imagine how
the country could ever recover. But Rwanda is
now moving forward and making its mark on
the travel world, thanks in part to its
remarkable wildlife. And youve clearly
liked what youve seen indeed, progress
is writ large here, and while it is still best
known for its mountain gorillas, other
wildlife is now taking centre stage. Akagera
National Park reintroduced lions to Rwanda
last year after a15-year absence, and there
are plans to restore its black rhino
population, making the park a Big Five
destination once again. Good news all round.
Elsewhere, Bolivia makes the list for the
third year running, while Bhutan, Nicaragua
and Georgia show there are still hidden
treasures on all continents of the globe.
RANKING %
1 Rwanda 97.14%
2 Bhutan 96.92%
3 Bolivia 95.00%
Dale Morris, Dreamstime
4 Georgia 94.00%
5 Nicaragua 93.30%
Xtra
TOP
GUIDEBOOK
SERIES:
DK EYEWITNESS
TRAVEL
After two years as a runner-up, it seems 20-plus
years of experience and some beautifully crafted
illustrations have finally paid dividends for this
years winner, DK Eyewitness Travel. And to add
even more meat to analready fineguide, it has
started to introduce downloadable, anecdote-
laced audio tours to its range of destinations.
From the best of the rest, your favourites are
still all there just in a different order. Its good
to see Marco Polo, who help us with our regular
Travel Icon feature (see p133), break into the
top ten for the first time as well.
RANKING %
1 DK Eyewitness Travel 85.95%
2 Bradt 83.41%
3 Cicerone 82.88%
4 Lonely Planet 82.69%
5 Insight Guides 81.60%
6 Footprint 79.13%
7 Rough Guides 78.82%
8 Time Out 73.95%
9 Marco Polo 73.41%
10 Trailblazer 73.04%
RANKING %
1 Bamboo Travel 100% Xtra
RANKING %
1 Singapore Changi 93.94%
2 Hong Kong International 88.71%
3 Zrich 85.56%
4 Hamad International (Doha) 85.52%
5 Amsterdam Schipol 85.05%
6 Oslo 84.44%
7 Auckland 83.68%
8 Chhatrapati Shivaji
International (Mumbai) 83.33%
9 Dubai International 81.69%
10 Geneva 81.21%
Dreamstime
THE
WANDERLUST
TRAVEL ICON
OF THE YEAR:
STANFORDS
More people than ever before are choosing to explore on their own.
Read on for our tips, trips, trails and trials in our solo traveller special,
beginning with Sandra Reekie, who regularly leaves behind
a husband, two daughters and six grandkids for the open road
Solo Travel
Y
Solo Travel
Solo sights
Wandering UNESCO-
SHADED WA R M
PAT H S SMILES
T H E WO R L D BY
WILD FRONTIERS
WILDFRONTIERSTRAVEL.COM
020 8741 7390
Together alone
A small group safari is
All by myself
a great way to bond
solo travellers together
Singled out
Stay safe. It is not uncommon for
solo travellers (women in particular)
to be targeted by scammers, but just
appearing confident can go a long way
to avoiding this. For instance, clutching
Specialist tours are a great way for solo travellers to meet people and do a guidebook wherever you go is a dead
something special, so here are our top tips for planning your next trip giveaway that youre fresh off the
boat and by yourself; read up in
advance or disguise the guide, and
Safaris the lounge car often affords a chance to not even prepare ready-made excuses
Spending hours cramped in small 4WDs on only regularly touch base socially with your (My friend will be joining me here in
safari often results in some intense group, but others outside it, too. a minute) in case of unwanted
camaraderie. But whether tracking through attention. Just be sensible: dont arrive
the bush together or recalling that skipped TOP TIP: Many sleeper trains offer single in strange places (airports, railway
heartbeat when you saw your first lion, its cabins for the same price per person as stations) late at night, or at least have
this shared experience that results in easy doubles (Orient Express, Royal Scotsman, someone meet you. Also, let others know
conversation and fewer barriers over dinner. etc). Its worth checking beforehand if you where you are going and use online
Indeed, the evening meal, in particular, is want to avoid single supplements. travel communities to check out a place
what makes safari tours ideal for solo in advance or to make local contacts.
travellers in the smaller camps they Cruises
typically take place at a communal table, A boat trip isnt all ballrooms and Be open to new experiences. Travel
meaning everyone chips in and gets to know cabaret. Expedition cruises into far-off light, so youre free to move about
each other fast. (often Arctic or Antarctic) waters and without the hassle of lots of luggage,
specialist multi-day river trips can deliver leaving you open to change your plans at
TOP TIP: Try to avoid the plusher lodges you to lost worlds. Whether youre a moments notice. And talk to people
and camps, which tend to be more ploughing the lesser-seen waters of the most other tourists are just as friendly
popular with both newlyweds and couples Peruvian Amazon or setting sail for as you are, and fellow solo travellers
looking for intimacy rather than new friends. Arctic Russia to spy mammoth bones can often offer valuable advice.
and polar bears on Wrangel Island, Homesteads and family-run B&Bs can
By rail these trips tend to attract a mix of help you meet the locals, while picking
Train tours are the perfect answer to the travellers; the communal dining is a small, friendly hotel (as opposed to
typical single supplement dilemma. Many a great way to meet others, with ships a large chain) with a communal area
sleeper trains have cabins for single use, often holding around 100 passengers. opens you up to other travellers. There
and for those sharing, it can often feel are also some incredible hostel
less intrusive to split a cabin than, say, TOP TIP: If seating is allocated at meal times, experiences out there, but dont feel
a hotel room. Clearly the tour ops have its worth finding out from the tour company like you have to pair off; if you want time
caught on, as train travel accounts for how many other solo travellers there are to yourself, give yourself that option.
Dreamstime
a large number of solo-only trips, while and whether you can be seated together.
www.trackssafaris.co.uk
01386 830264
ATOL and TTA bonded to give you 100% financial protection
Simply visit
Wanderlust.co.uk/Discover-Belize
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T R AV E L M A G A Z I N E
FROM
THE
ROAD
Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers
A
s I shuffled to the edge of easily in their bare feet. They bore the
thewooden platform and weight of heavy baskets strapped across
squinted apprehensively their heads as if they were mere sweat
upat the alluring Himalayan bands. I, meanwhile, ignored the cramps
peak, I was distracted by inmy stomach a bad choice atdinner
afriendly, toothless grin. There stood somedays earlier now causing me to
theNepalese woman who had just sold me question my own abilities. But the task was
arestorative Coca-Cola. Her encouraging large and we had a schedule to keep. I was
nod gently willed me to carry on, but an not dying after all or so they told me.
arduous hike up a steep incline awaited. The landscape and the people were our
This was hiking with a purpose, though: reward. Clouds carelessly spattered across
todeliver medicine to the Tibetan refugee the horizon, supporting ethereal peaks
camps that scattered the foothills of the above and casting slices of shadow
Himalaya. Butwhile the trail I followed was overthemulti-toned brown folds in the
well worn, thousands of years of footsteps earthbelow. Tiny ancient houses clung
had made it no less difficult, and Iwinced, desperately to the slopes, regardless of the
envious of the sherpas who skipped ahead steep drops, while donkeys wandered the
Yo u r S t o r y
T
that they would soon return to asafe bed their earlier help by urging them on. The
inastable country. This hike had opened he day it happened will always simple act of being able to support the group
my eyes in more ways than one. be ingrained in my mind. I stood gave me ahuge boost, and for the first time in
next to my new motorcycle and years I was no longer slowing people down
started the engine, watching it instead, I was able to keep them moving.
rumble into life. Then, with Out of nowhere, a small village sprung up
themost gratifying of growls, Iset off out of the mist. Within minutes we were sat
andlost myself for hours amid winding around a table, beers in hand. It was only
country roads. It was then that I heard the then that someone asked about my hiking
sound of grinding metal something was staff and leg brace. In stunned silence, they
wrong. My rear wheel locked and I was listened to me field the same questions
thrown off, tumbling down a bank. Unable countless others had asked: why take on the
to move and consumed by pain, I lost all hike, the pain and the mental battle?
sense of time and everything went black. The answer was simple: why not? I had
Weeks passed by in a blur of white coats, survived an accident that, by all rights,
operating theatres and morphine-induced should have killed me, and had spent the
stupors. Eventually I awoke long enough previous four years battling to get my life
tocomprehend the following devastating back. I had beaten the odds and learnt to
words: Youvebroken your spine. Im afraid walk again. Backpacking around the world
youll never walk again. I was crushed. might be a thrilling experience for most
Fast-forward four-and-a-half years and people, but for me, it felt especially precious
Iwas sat atop a mountain in Sapa, Vietnam, because I had very nearly lost the chance.
telling this same story to 13 new friends.
Thetrail up the peak had been a struggle for This was an entry in our regular online writing
everyone. People were falling over due to the competition. Keep an eye out for the next one
steep slopes and ankle-deep mud. I walked at atwanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust
YOUR
PHOTOS
Been somewhere beautiful? Done something amazing?
Email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk make us jealous!
Living it up in Bagan,
Burma (Myanmar)
literally! Its tremendous
to see the temples from
a hot air balloon!
Karen ONeill
After your piece on the Camino Im always in agony for two days hectic adventures? In my view,
de Santiago [March 2017, issue
174], here are my top walks. My
afterward but the cake table at
the finishing line makes up for it.
theres no better way than to visit
the citys botanic garden. Theres
WIN
favourite far-flung treks have Emma Halford, via website no need to be a great flower WANDERLUST
been The Arctic Circle Trail in
Greenland and also Thorsmork- Im not much of a hiker too
enthusiast; Ive often had great
pleasure in watching the birds
GOODIES
to-Skogar in Iceland, which has unfit and as a result, my and other wildlife, or by just Each issue, our winning
snow, scrambles, volcanoes and favourite walks arent long ones! taking a gentle stroll through the contribution wins a haul
waterfalls. Closer to home The I loved walking across the sea gardens in the sun to enjoy the of Wanderlust gear.
Great Eastern Pingo trail is ace, ice, between Devils Island and peaceful surroundings. They This time, congratulations
theres a nice route around the Vega Island in Antarctica. One arent full of tourists, theyre to Debra!
Pickenhams in Norfolk, while in slightly longer walk that I did rarely crowded and you can
Wales theres the Aberglaslyn enjoy, was in El Chaltn, enjoy seeing the locals relaxing
Gorge walk in Snowdonia. Argentina. The walk up to the and quietly having a good time.
My favourite organised walk is lake was enjoyable in itself, and From Rio to Calcutta, Kuala
the Ridgeway 40 (in May). Ive brought you out to a stunning Lumpur to Perth, cities all over
done it in all weathers and had view of Mount Fitzroy. the world take pride in
some fantastic disasters. The Tabitha Green, via website maintaining beautiful gardens.
first year I didnt get any further They are nearly always free, too.
than the epic cake tent at mile A citys leafy oasis When you need a brief time out
28 and another, very rainy, year How often in our travels have we from all your activities, take a
I forgot my walking boots and found ourselves in a big city and walk in a botanic garden.
had to do it in my school shoes. need to take a break from our Mike Segal, London
JUST BACK
FROM...
Antarctica
been mostly...
Wanderlust forum Giving some love to Polands Using Wanderlust as an
user Meg Gotshall city breaks. Warsaw is a must inspirational buffer between
reflects on 21 days its a shame its overshadowed by travels. Its the one thing to soften
in Antarctica and other major cities in Europe. the blow when I get home from
South Georgia trevornealhall Myanmar, with Madagascar and
Admiring the beauty of maybe Bhutan on the cards for next
The highlight: Completing the Cautionary tale: Visiting Sagres in Portugal. Its year! Hannah Theobald
final leg of Shackletons Antarctica on a larger expedition so pretty there who wouldnt Remembering when I rode
famous hike to Stromness on ship requires a lot of waiting want to visit? the rails in Canada. I took
a beautiful day, then landing at around as groups rotate on @travellerAmit a train to Qubec a few years ago
the site of his mens camp at shore its spectacular though. Realising youre never too old it was utterly perfect. @joesredflag
Point Wild. I wish Id known... How different to go on a backpacking trip. Chilling on an Indian beach.
Must see: Stop to take in the the demographics are on different I went on my first solo one to Kuzhupilly was so serene
surroundings whether its ships. Its a better experience Thailand and Cambodia in my 60s! and enchanting. MeenaB
a snowy mountain, rich sunset with like-minded travellers. Julesbebop Enjoying Wanderlusts annual
or a lively penguin colony. Anything else? If the wildlife is Being wowed by Vietnams Travel Photo of the Year
Top tip: Leave your expectations the big draw, include South spectacular cities. Hoi An is exhibition at the Destinations Show
behind. Every aspect of the trip Georgia in your itinerary. If amazing I was there last October in London. There were some
is weather dependent, so be youre after icy landscapes, head and loved every minute of it. wonderful photos many congrats
ready to enjoy anything. straight for the peninsula. Sue Anderson to the winners! @yumcoconut
PHOTO OF
THE MONTH
Great Wall of China,
Jinshanling, China
Monika Mullen
I couldnt ask for a more
outstanding experience than
an autumnal view of the greatest
wall in the world. A two-hour bus
ride from Beijing dropped us at
the base of the tourist-free
Jinshanling section. The five-hour
hike took us through crumbling
ancient watch towers. Ive always
dreamt of hiking its ruins and the
wild, untouched walls snaking
along mountains. Matched with
the early afternoon sun shining
through the fluffy clouds, it gave
my husband and I magical
memories especially as we had
it to ourselves.
Wanderlust reserves the right to edit letters; Dreamstime
Ultimate Australia
From iconic Sydney to the wild Outback beyond, its time to really discover
New South Wales: the quintessential Australian experience
T
he dazzling centrepiece of many ways these headline draws should highlights including the Museum of
New South Wales, Syndey is be seen as little more than hors doeuvres. Contemporary Art Australia, the Art Gallery
a multicultural metropolis, The real joys of the city are found by of New South Wales and the terrific
an exuberant melting pot of delving into its colourful patchwork of Australian Museum, the oldest such venue
shiny towers, long beaches neighbourhoods: its lazy cafes and in the country. For something out of the
and big, blue skies. If all this ferry-traversed bays, its green parks and ordinary, try exploring the former convict
means the locals seem hidden beaches, its historic backstreets site of Hyde Park Barracks or learning about
particularly at ease with their and dizzying nightlife. the southern skies on a night viewing at
lot, dont be surprised the state capital was In terms of unique Sydney experiences, Sydney Observatory and dont forget the
recently voted the planets friendliest city. theres ample choice. Classic options include wild residents of Taronga Zoo.
Some places have it tough. climbing to the summit of the Sydney Harbour The city has become renowned for its
It also enjoys an ideal coastal location. As Bridge, making the scenic crossing to the food and drink. Sydneys dining scene is
the gateway to the wider region, the city beach suburb of Manly or lounging over a amicrocosm of its cosmopolitan make-up,
rewards travellers twice over: not only is it long picnic in the Royal Botanic Garden. For with a array of Asian, European and
ahugely enjoyable destination in its own something more active, meanwhile, theres Middle-Eastern restaurants alongside
right, it also serves as a superbly situated no better urban day-walk in Australia than high-quality Australian fare. Ameal out can
jumping-off point for exploring the rest of the six-kilometre coastal hike from Coogee be what you make it here, whether you want
the state. From here, you really can see it all. to Bondi, which showcases the citys famous to sample seafood at abeachside cafe, feast
Not that youll be in any rush to leave. The ocean beaches to dramatic effect. on fusion cuisine at alaneway bar or book
city is home to some of the most iconic Travellers looking for cultural attractions a table at one of the Worlds Top 100
attractions in world travel, from the Sydney are well catered for. The city has an excellent Restaurants. Meanwhile, if you fancy
Opera House to Bondi Beach, although in range of museums and galleries, with sampling some of the most fancied wines in
the world, the famous Hunter Valley wine
region is just two hours away from city,
letting you do so direct from the vineyard.
Even closer are the epic Blue Mountains,
Dreamstime; Alamy
The easy New South Wales climate an obligatory port of call for bushwalkers
thanks to their deep wilderness vistas
Xtra
Scan here to
watch video
Xtra
Xtra
Scan to reveal why
Scan to reveal more Wanderlust readers voted
cultural highlights Singapore Airlines no.1
Epic experience
Big mountains, bigger coast, biggest scenery: New South Wales is an
adventurous travellers dream of massive landscapes and wonderful wildlife
A
nywhere that can offer is known for its resident dolphins and its the bluish haze given off by the eucalyptus
dense rainforest, diver- suitability for kayaking, kite-surfing, sailing woods that carpet the mountains.
friendly reefs, snow- charters and fishing trips; a little further The Snowy Mountains, meanwhile, are
covered slopes, surf breaks down the coast, youll find whalewatching amajor draw in their own right. Climbing,
and red Outback in one mecca Eden the best sightings are between caving, skiing and snowboarding are all on
place is more than just September and November. the menu here the key resort town of
another trip destination. Elsewhere, the states range of islands Thredbo usually has snow between June
New South Wales throws up further options for adventure. and October. At other times of year,
potential for outdoor escape is as fine as On Montague Island its possible to snorkel thrill-seekers can make the ascent of the
youll find anywhere on the planet. with fur seals, while 595km offshore youll 2,228-metre-high Mount Kosciuszko,
The states coastline is one of its crowning find Lord Howe Island. Its remote location mainland Australias highest peak.
glories, serving up more than 1,600 makes it aprime spot for birdwatching, with The coastline is fringed with national
kilometres of sands, cliffs, bays and islands. more than 130 permanent and migratory parks to have a wild adventure in:
Ravishingly scenic, its also a playground for species, and the islands cliffs, beaches and Wollumbin National Park boasts treks over
beach bums, adrenaline junkies and every diving scene make it well worth the two-hour an ancient volcano crater; Budderoo NP is
shade of adventure-lover in between. flight from Sydney. Indeed, its rarest migrant known for its waterfalls and wildflowers;
A single weeks travelling might throw up species are humans, with only 400 people and the mellow expanse of Ku-ring-gai
everything from whalewatching and coastal allowed on the island at any one time. Chase NP, where cycling, fishing and
trekking to stand-up paddle boarding and But if you thought the New South Wales walking are among the activities on offer.
surfing, not to mention a wealth of epic coastline is adiverse place, the same is doubly Heading further inland, youll reach the
sunrises and Instagram-friendly beaches. true inland, where an area almost four times red plains of the Outback and rich human
There are riches to be uncovered both the size of the UK awaits offering varied history. The mining town of Broken Hill has
north and south of Sydney. The 900km road landscapes. The Great Dividing Range runs both a Royal Flying Doctor Service visitor
trip known as the Legendary Pacific Coast the full length of the state, encompassing centre and an outdoor sculpture park; the
will take you northwards to surf hotspot two of the regions biggest outdoor landscapes of the UNESCO-listed Mungo
Byron Bay, leading past fishing hamlets, attractions: the Blue Mountains and the NP meanwhile is home to more than 40,000
ocean-fringed rainforests and indigenous Snowy Mountains. The former are easy to years of Aboriginal history. Adventure-
sites. Port Stephens, Port Macquarie and factor into a New South Wales journey, by seekers can even take on the 800km 4WD
Coffs Harbour are also all en route, as are an virtue of their proximity to Sydney. They outback route that is the Darling River Run.
abundance of friendly surf schools. emphatically deserve far more than aday trip Whether its astonishing wildlife, epic
If youre heading south out of Sydney, you though, with abseiling, cycling, Aboriginal landscapes or white-knuckle adventures,
can enjoy some classic New South Whales tours, day spas, bushwalking trails and New South Wales has every sort of
coastal adventures. The spread of Jervis Bay horseriding trips. Their name comes from adventure to set your pulse racing.
Xtra
Running wild
New South Wales offers
thrills on land and off,
with whales, fur seals
and kangaroos among
the stunning wildlife to
be found
Classic & cool
As diverse as it is vast, New South Wales offers the best experiences in
whatever floats your surfboard, whether its culture, cuisine, nightlife or sport
A
ny trip Down Under is Its vintners are just as laden with On a wider level, of course, New South
always going to involve far awards. New South Wales has 14 different Wales has a richly varied annual calendar
more than mere sight- wine regions, all of which offer cellar of cultural events, ranging from classic
seeing. The relaxed door tastings. The best known is the Sydney occasions such as the plethora of
Australian way of life is an sweeping Hunter Valley, the oldest such New Years Eve parties, to all-Australian
inseparable part of the region in Australia, but there are real celebrations like Januarys Tamworth
overall experience, and in treasures to be uncovered elsewhere, with Country Music Festival.
New South Wales youll the Hastings River region and the Southern Two other major Sydney events are the
find it in abundance from its beach Highlands being two choice regions for Handa Opera season, which this year sees
culture to its cuisine and festivals. connoisseurs. The states craft beer Carmen being performed outdoors against
The states gourmet offerings are movement is also in full flow, with dedicated aharbour backdrop between 24 March and
especially enticing. Specialities include bars and brewhouses across the map. 23 April, and the annual light and sound
succulent prawns and premium oysters, Foodies can time a visit here to coincide spectacular Vivid Sydney, with 2017 dates
artisan meats and farmhouse cheeses, with one of the states culinary festivals, from 26 May to 17 June.
and tropical fruit and fresh vegetables. including Septembers Mudgee Wine & Sports fans also have good reason to set
Sydney has some of the best restaurants Food Festival, Octobers Orange Wine their eyes on New South Wales. The
in the entire southern hemisphere, Festival, and Sydneys Good Food Month England cricket team arrive in Australia for
while many in regional New South Wales the largest festival of its kind in the an Ashes series at the end of the year and go
have garlands of their own. country (TBC, usually October). to New South Wales for the beginning of
Xtra
NSW essentials
food & wine experiences
STATE CAPITAL: Sydney GETTING THERE & AROUND: Flights from the
TIME ZONE: GMT +10 UK are frequent, with the award-winning
VISAS: British travellers need a visa to enter Singapore Airlines among those offering
Australia. The eVisitor visa is free and can be aone-stop service. In NSW itself, theres
obtained online from the Department of agood road network for hire vehicles and
Immigration & Border Protection (border.gov.au). public buses, as well as various rail routes.
It allows for visits of up to three months. Internal flights connect Sydney with
MONEY: Australian dollar (1 = approximately Newcastle, Tamworth, Coffs Harbour, Port
AUD 1.62) Macquarie and Ballina (for Byron Bay).
WHEN TO GO: NSW is a year-round ACCOMMODATION: The state offers five-star
destination, with seasons that are inverse of luxury, backpacker hostels and the full
those in the UK, with summer from December spectrum of options in between, including
to February and a winter from June to August, some very good campsites.
which boasts average temperatures of 16C. MORE INFO: sydney.com
HOT OFFERS
Up to 1000 per couple on
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Pocket Guides First 24 Hours
Kyoto, Japan
Winning Top City in our Reader Travel Awards, Kyotos array of ancient sites is
no secret, but heres how to explore it the crowd-free way, says James Hadfield
Before you arrive and exploring its network of backstreets instead, Getting into town
As Japans capital for over 1,000 years, winding narrow alleys past teashops and stores. There is a 75-minute direct train from Kansai
Kyoto takes its history very seriously without being Away from the heritage sites, this is athriving toKyoto Station (JPY2,850/20). This is covered
overwhelmed by it. The result is a wonderful blend modern city with chic fashion boutiques and a hip bythe Japan Rail Pass (japanrailpass.net), which
of the modern and the ancient living side by side. dining scene. And while many come for the history, offers unlimited trips on the nationwide JR network
The Imperial court first moved here from Nara in there is more to Kyoto than geishas and temples. (JPY29,110/212 for seven consecutive days) and,
794 AD, and didnt officially leave until 1868. Since for the first time, can now be bought at some stations
then, Kyoto has experienced more than its fair At the airport though it is cheaper to buy in advance. Itami has
shareof hardships, but was largely spared by US There are no direct flights from the UK to no direct rail links to Kyoto, so it is quicker and easier
bombers during the Second World War. And while Kyoto, with routes typically going either viaTokyos to take the 70-minute shuttle bus (JPY1,310/9).
few of its old townhouses remain today, its many Narita airport to Osaka International Airport (Itami)
cultural treasures including 400 Shinto shrines or viainternational connections to Osakas Kansai Other ways to arrive
and 1,600 Buddhist temples are gloriously intact. International Airport. Flight time is around 15 hours. From Tokyo, catch the JR Tokaido
Finding moments of Zen-like tranquillity can be Kansai is situated 50km from Kyotos city centre shinkansen (bullet train) from Tokyo Station (from
achallenge, though. Overseas visitors to Japan onaman-made island in Osaka Bay; Itami is closer JPY13,600/98). The JR Pass is only valid for the
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have increased nearly threefold since 2010, and it at 40km. Both are well equipped with info booths, Hikari and Kodama services (2.54 hours), and
can feel like every last one of them has made their currency exchanges and ATMs in Arrivals, as well notthe more frequent (and faster) Nozomi. But the
way to Kyoto usually on a day trip from Tokyo. as free Wifi. But finding a cheap internet connection slower pace is worth it on clear days, as youll get
But escaping the tour-group crush is often a simple elsewhere can be a tricky; its often easier to pick up agood view ofMount Fuji from the right hand side
Shutterstock
question of stepping off the main thoroughfares aprepaid SIMcard or mobile router atthe airport. of thetrain, just under an hour after leaving Tokyo.
0
JFMAMJJASOND
0
tourists, especially when
the cherry blossoms
bloom (late March
Top Tip
Kyoto is a city best
canal-side Philosophers
Path north past cherry
blossom trees to the
can work up an appetite at the covered
Nishiki Market. Finish nearby with acheap,
umami-laden bowl of burnt miso ramen
Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high)
tomid-April). experienced on foot. beautiful and busy atGogyo (ramendining-gogyo.com).
Dont be afraid to stray
off the beaten path
the grid-pattern layout
makes it almost
impossible to get lost.
perfection feel effortless. Half-board stays plenty of other capsule hotels evoke. district in the western outskirts of Kyoto spend the night in a Buddhist temple on
from JPY45,000 (320) per person. From JPY1,900 (14) per capsule. that needs at least half aday to explore. the sacred mountain of Koyasan. Bliss.
Southern belle
A hiker overlooks Cadair
Idris in Snowdonia
National Park
Snowdonia, Wales
With Snowdonia scooping Best UK Destination in our Reader Travel Awards,
Chris Moss discovers the Welsh culture and fine food beyond its iconic peaks
A
s Wales oldest, best-known and beautiful Bala Lake (Llyn Tegid). Quaternary ice what most appeals from a short stroll along a
largest national park, Snowdonia isall ages have carved steep slopes and U-shaped river to a hill-walk up the country's highest.
things to all people: hiking paradise, valleys into the ancient volcanic ash, of which the But whatever you need to work up a hunger,
bikers dream ride, Welsh culture- area is formed, leaving a rugged landscape that youll find it here not to mention ahealthy dining
buffs heartland. Jim Perrin, author of has long proven resistant to extensive settlement. scene. No less than 41 North Walian restaurants
a book about its highest peak, Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa Nonetheless, there are many farms, towns and appeared in the 2017 Michelin guide, including
in Welsh), declared it the British mainlands finest villages scattered across the park, with around Mawddach (mawddach.com), a fine farmhouse
mountain, compared withwhich, Scafell Pike and 26,000 people living within its bounds. For visitors, eatery at Llanelltyd, and Sygun Fawr Country
Ben Nevis were but lumpenand uncouth masses. thetwo gateway towns of Betws-y-Coed and House (sygunfawr.co.uk), part way up amountain
Scots and Cumbrians may demur. But to be Llanberis are particularly attractive, as is the in Beddgelert. And be sure to try local beers by
voted Best UK Destination in Wanderlusts 2017 handsome Harlech, complete with UNESCO-listed the Great Orme and Purple Moose breweries.
Reader Travel Awards (p91) says a lot about your medieval castle. But it is a beauty that may not have Then theres Snowdonias more intangible
love for the area. And notwithstanding the crowds survived were it not for the creation of its park. qualities. As a linguistic and cultural centre, nearly
that congregate in its quainter towns, theres more Established in 1951, Snowdonia NP was founded 60 percent of its population speak Welsh. From
than just towering peaks here, with plenty of fine to protect Wales most scenic mountains (including bilingual place names and topography (cwm/
food, beaches, castles and wild walks to discover. 15 peaks over 3,000ft/914m) and curb encroaching valley, pentre/village, aber/river mouth) to
Indeed, Snowdonia sweeps a large corner of industry. Today, its protected peaks, waterfalls, historical sites and local legends, Welsh culture
north-west Wales, covering 2,176 sq km from Conwy lakes, Alpine grasslands and forests form an active thrives here. So, by all means explore its peaks
on the North Wales coast, down to Aberdyfi midway travellers playground. To plan a trip here, simply and ridges, but know that there is more to this
Shutterstock
along glorious Cardigan Bay and deep inland to pickupOrdnance Survey Map OL17 and plot out perfectly preserved piece of north-west Wales.
top tip
Harlech is gateway tothe south. Snowdon: The Story of monsters) swirl the and over the peak of Y Lliwedd.
Where to stay: Castle Cottage a Welsh Mountain summit, with audio Spend the night at nearby Llanberis,
(castlecottageharlech.co.uk) is (Gomer, 2012) for commentary found formerly a dormitory town for slate
Organised by the people behind
a rural seven-suite restaurant some tall tales. the popular Keswick Mountain in the visitor centre quarry miners and now a hiking hub.
Festival, the Snowdonia Outdoor
Festival (Aug 1113) will be
focused on adventure activities
and sports. For tickets, visit
tinyurl.com/SnowOF
you forget that essential base layer. where the Llugwy River cascades well known than Snowdons massif. filmed. End your trip with a ride on the
Curious sites include the Ugly House down a rocky staircase. Finish at the The walk via the Roman Steps Ffestiniog Railway (festrail.co.uk)
(pictured; theuglyhouse.co.uk), which family-run Trefriw Woollen Mills takes you up to thegranite summit upto Blaenau Ffestiniog, to see the
was most likely built in 1475 in lieu of (t-w-m.co.uk), built in 1858 and now of Rhinog Fawr (720m), one of the Llechwedd Slate Caverns and learn
alocal ruling that anyone who could both a museum and working mill. three best-known peaks (the others about the areas slate-mining past.
FIRST 24 HOURS
Maori culture, New Zealand
Its gorgeous landscapes meant you once again chose New Zealand as your favourite
destination, but its earliest settlers are arguably what makes the country really tick
Get orientated Getting there & around Head to geothermal Rotorua for a trio of old
New Zealand has long been revered for its There are no direct flights from the UK to settlements (Mitai, Tamaki and Whakarewarewa)
landscapes. North Island has geysers, volcanoes New Zealand, but connecting flights can be found and villages that still rely on the boiling waters
and ancient forests galore; the South is dashed with from many UK cities. Flying from London to Auckland ofthe geyser-laden Te Puia valley the 20-a-day
epic mountains, glaciers and fjords. Few settings are the majority of Maori villages lie within the North spurts of Pohutu geyser are well worth spying, too.
as instantly recognisable or iconic, and it seems you, Island costs from 500; flight time is around 30 Further north are the Waitangi Treaty Grounds,
our readers, agree, having voted it Top Country hours. The northern part of the South Island where New Zealand was confirmed a British colony
yet again in our Reader Travel Awards 2017 (p91). (Kaikoura, Marlborough) also has a large Maori in 1840 and home to some finely carved marae.
But amid the fevered Tolkien comparisons, what community, with domestic flights connecting Here, hire a dug-out canoe and trace the wake of
isoften overlooked is the islands native culture. Its Christchurch. But village marae (meeting places) the countrys first settlers around the Bay of Islands.
rather surprising given the landscape is so entwined can only be visited as part of an organised tour. The South Island has its own Maori history. Thigh-
with the traditions of the Maori. From sacred peaks slapping hakas (war dances) and hangi feasts
(the gods and warriors of old) to the creation myths The visit await at Ko Tane in Willowbank Wildlife Reserve,
that sketch the forest and sea, they are inseparable. The Maori were New Zealands first settlers, the islands only working village. Spy rock art near
And this year is an important one for the countrys arriving long before the Europeans landed in the Timaru, while the Maori and Colonial Museum in
original settlers, marking 150 years since the Maori 1800s. They came from Polynesia around 1,000 Okains Bay boasts some impressive tribal artefacts.
Representation Act when the first Maori were years ago and their culture has largely endured, with But the true Maori spirit lies in the landscape they
elected to New Zealands parliament. What better ceremonial performances, hangi (pit oven) feasting consider sacred. The best way to understand local
Shutterstock
time to learn more about their enduring culture? and wood-carving still visible in village life today. culture is to explore it New Zealand at its best!
5 The interior
The interior and the roof ridge
beams and rafters represent the
1 The tekoteko
The carved figure
(tekoteko) of a highly
chest and the spine of the ancestor. revered ancestor usually
1 crowns the roof ridge of
the meeting house.
5
4 2
4 Myths
and stories
The elaborate carvings
on the interior walls of
the meeting houses
3
often tell of Maori myths.
A commonly depicted
tale, for example, is
2 Roof ridge
Below the roof
ridge, the face of the
theepic fight between ancestor is represented
Kupetheseafarer and as a mask, with the
a giantsquid during ancestors arms
theoriginal discovery (maihi) typically
of New Zealand. outstretched
inthe form of sloping
bargeboards.
What a carve up!
The numerous carvings
3 Side posts
in the meeting houses are
lovingly crafted by hand.
The side posts
of the meeting house
tend to symbolise the
ancestors ribs.
Essentials
Language: English; Maori
Time: GMT+13 (OctMar GMT+12)
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Parting shot
matched their growing status and, while modern water will ensure that their legacy lives on. The other way to help,
systems have since replaced them, they remain as fine of course, is to stick them on your next Indian itinerary.
Visit: www.mytripfinder.co.uk
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South East Asia
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