PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

AN ITALIAN IN NYC

EASTER PICS
Supplemento al n. 234, gennaio 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2011 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

CHOCOLATE
ENTREMETS
AND GELATO RECIPES

SUGAR, COFFEE
AND CUISINE

TECHNOLOGY
AND PRODUCT

NEWS

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480

issue eighteen-2011 EDITORI www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
 Its time for comfort.
SQ 013
120 h 10 mm

TOR 135
135 h 40 mm
N
E SIG
DD
RE
IS TE
R EG MADE IN ITALY

Easy to take the product out of the mould

No need for a blowtorch
No need for Clingfilm
Reduction in production time
An insert mould corresponds to each
TOR diameter
Shockproof polycarbonate tray included Via Tagliamento, 78 - 30030 Mellaredo di Pianiga (VE) - Italy
Easy to store Tel. +39 041 5190550 Fax +39 041 5190290
www.silikomart.com
 In this issue
Live from New York City

Easter Time

The Accademia and the wedding cake

Emotions
and rationality in chocolate

Recipes' windmill Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition

10064 Pinerolo (Torino)
Puffed Popeye Viale della Rimembranza 60
tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480
Refreshing sips
info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
The sweet and cold
side of the territory EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Livia Chiriotti
Recipes from the ifse SENIOR EDITOR
Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti
NEWS EDITORS
Cristina Quaglia
News Milena Novarino
Monica Onnis
The flexible multifunction ASSISTANT EDITOR
Pastry Chef helper
Chiara Comba
Quality from the root TRANSLATIONS
Alexander Martin
New Boscolo Etoile Academy MARKETING EDITOR
in Tuscania Monica Pagliardi
Legion of Honour ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
to Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it
ART DIRECTOR
Biasetto in Bruxelles Studio Grafico Impagina
PRINTED BY
Exciting notes of colour Tipografia Giuseppini
From Sicily to Normandy Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition
In the world with Trittico Executive is happily published in Italy by Chiriotti Editori
Copyright 2011 by Chiriotti Editori
Intersicop 2011 All rights reserved
No part of this magazine may be reproduced
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Comfit and Comfit Maxi
Supplement of Pasticceria Internazionale
A new generation n. 234 January 2011
of professional moulds
ON OUR COVER
The Power of Knowledge Dome of crme brule with raspberries
Biagio Settepani
Exceeding all expectations

Chocogang is coming

Italian delights in London

The pastry world meets in Lyon

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PASTRY

LIVE FROM
NEW YORK CITY
Happiness is a family and three shops
It looks like the title of a film, but it is the story of BIAGIO SETTEPANI who, with his
wife Pina and their three children, have made a life for themselves in New York City
To talk about Biagio Settepani and his family is always a plea-
sure. And not just because they are close friends, but mainly be-
cause it means telling the story of a growing success, a real
passion and a big heart. The story begins in Sicily, specifically in
Ventimiglia di Palermo, where Biagio set off for the first time to
New York with his twin brother Antonino and his parents. About
this first phase, much useful information can be found in the se-
cond edition of "Sweet Sensations of Sicily", edited by Salva-
tore Farina, with pictures by Giancarlo Bononi, for Lussografica
(For orders, chef7Bread@aol.com).
The family is the starting point of this article because Biagio, with
professionalism and passion (in addition to numerous awards), owes
much to both his family of origin and to the one he has created with
his wife Pina. Together and literally step by step, they "conquered"
their America, today boasting three very well established shops:
Bruno Bakery in La Guardia Place (in Manhattan), about 130 m2,
of which 100 are dedicated to sales, a laboratory of 120 m2 and
another 90 m2 warehouse with 20 employees; on Staten Island,
there is Pasticceria Bruno Bakery & Restaurant in Forest Ave-
nue (280 m2 total, of which 170 for a pastry and cuisine laboratory,
and 35 employees); and Pasticceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard, with
over 600 m2 and 40 employees. It is teamwork all the way: first the
parents and Antonino, then Pina, a woman of great altruism and kin-
dness (qualities that are common to her husband), who never has
enough to give. And then there are three children: Salvatore, 25,
grew up in his father's laboratory, did an internship with Biasetto in
Padua, and now leads the pastry shop on Hylan Blvd; Fina spends
her spare time (she recently graduated in marketing) in the other
large shop on Staten Island, because she is very good with custo-
mers and with training assistants. And the little one (so to speak,
given that he is 17 years old) of the family, Joseph, has just left for
the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (a university his brother
studied at) and is quite happy to lend a hand in the laboratory, de-
spite his football prowess.
Settepani's pastry making combines Italian tradition with American
(and a touch of French), a colourful mix of cultures lived and loved,
which lead to an offering of cakes (from tiramisu to the keylime tart
with lime cream and pastry), cookies (from Lenten cookies to "diet"
ones with chocolate and cherries), single portions, frozen desserts,
muffins, jams, bakery products and savoury pastries. But it is the
mignons that best express this mix of cultures and techniques that
go far beyond the Italy-USA tandem: about twenty mignons and forty
single portions, numbers that make them unique in the area; the fa-
vourite is the chocolate mousse.

2 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
THE SMALL OF THE FAMILY
Settepani's most recent brainchild, open a year ago, is the Pastic-
ceria Bruno on Hylan Boulevard of Staten Island, now ably mana-
ged by his son Salvatore and by chef and partner Franco Franzese.
We had the pleasure to visit and enjoy the rich lunch menu, among
a crowd of customers, mostly women taking their breaks from local
offices and from the nearby hospital.
In fact, in all family-run businesses lunches and dinners are an ex-
cellent source of income and are appreciated not only for quality but
also for the abundance of food, all with a clear Italian influence of
course: fried calamari, mozzarella in carrozza, arancini, carpaccios,
polenta, pasta of various sorts, salads, soups, meat and fish dishes,
Tuscan piadine, pizzas, barbecue sandwiches, not to mention deli-
cious desserts. Customer feedback is tangible and on weekends,
especially in stores on Staten Island, there can be one-hour queues
to eat.
Even at breakfast, rooms are crowded; there are simple and filled
croissants (almond, chocolate, cinnamon ... and salted), Danish,
muffins, croissants with chocolate cream, as well as omelettes and
savory dishes, for the classic English breakfast; Sunday brunch also
works well. Eating on-site means customers can get to know the
sweet offering, which boosts take-away sales. The offering includes
various types of bread produced in the laboratory of Forest Avenue
and obviously the super popular cupcake (see article in issue 229)
made by the Settepanis in extra large formats: the favourite, known
as Red Velvet, sells 150 pieces per week.
Services offered include catering (especially for private parties and
large family dinners) and take away, with popular sauces, especially
the tomato pesto. Lastly, there are several initiatives for customers, Above, the family group. From left: Joseph, Pina, Biagio, Fina and Salvatore.
such as courses for pastry and bread making at the shop in Hylan
Blvd, on Sunday morning for 15 people for $95: chocolates for Va- res can co-exist so close together, Biagio specifies: "Some dine at
lentine's Day, Easter specialties, Italian cookies, colourful cupcakes, Hylan Blvd and then eat dessert at Forest Ave!".
ice cream, sorbets and granitas; carrot, nut and banana cake, lemon www.pasticceriabruno.com
and blueberries; low-sugar treats, jams and jellies.
This success is the result of hard work, credibility built over the years, A united family, three successful pastry shops, and industry
and entrepreneurial flair, not only behind the scenes, but also in esteem: how do you feel when you look back and take stock
terms of marketing and image. And should anyone ask how two sto- of the long road covered?

On the left, the pastry shop in Forest Avenue; Hylan Boulevard to the right, working with Franco and Salvatore are 40 employees, spread over two shifts, from
7 to 15.30 and from 15.30 to 22. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners are a great revenue for all the Settepani shops. At Hyland Blvd on Valentine's Day, for
example, there is an average of three rounds of sessions for the romantic dinner.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 3
PASTRY

When I think of this long journey, the strongest emotion is to see
my children involved in our business, happy to continue what Pina
and I have built.
What does it mean to be an ambassador of Italian dessert in
the States, and to be an honorary member of AMPI?
A lot, because it allows me to stay connected to my roots and to
keep up with the times and trends, building useful connections even
with the best professionals in Italy and worldwide.
To what extent do the Americans understand Italian tradition?
What advice would you give to a fellow who wants to drive
sales at a time as difficult as this?
I think the best advice is always not to choose short-cuts in order to
give the customer the best quality at the most appropriate price.
These are times when you have to keep the cost of ingredients under
control, carefully looking for the best deals, and minimizing waste.
How has the clientele changed in New York in the last 10
years?
The general public has greater awareness regarding food, through

I think there is great confusion when speaking of our Italian tradi-
tions in the States: a large percentage of Italian pastry making has
not kept up with the developments of the last 15 years. This means
Italian desserts are still considered to be tiramisu, cannoli, the cas-
sata and panna cotta, all of which is in some way influenced by
American style.
Let's talk about gelato: how do you make Americans under-
stand the difference between ice cream and gelato?
It is not easy to educate the customer with regards gelato, simply be-
cause ice cream is all they know. I believe in tastings and custom les-
sons, while trusting the work that Italian companies have been doing
in these parts (Elenka, Fabbri 1905, Mec3, Pernigotti, PreGel ...).
But it will still take some years before we see the results.
What are the most popular flavours?
The classics, from vanilla to chocolate, including hazelnut and
strawberry.
And are granitas appreciated?
Yes, especially lemon and coffee.
IRBBAF
travel, television, internet ... But it is also more health- and weight-
conscious, and so spends and consumes less.
The crisis can also be felt in your area. What are you doing to
face it?
Whenever you face any kind of crisis we must find ways to cut costs
and reduce waste. We have also reduced the work week for emplo-
yees to six days instead of seven, allowing us to contain wages.
What is the ingredient that you love to work, and what inno-
vative technology satisfies you the most?
The ingredient is chocolate, while the equipment that I appreciate
most is the blast chiller, which allows us every day to speed up pro-
duction without affecting quality.
What will be the future of the industry, in your opinion?
The format will change: family-run pastry shops will disappear and
a wave of more modern stores is coming, with an offering that
goes beyond confectionery, including sandwiches, salads, soups
and pizzas.
Livia Chiriotti

Cartocci

Dough
flour g 1000
sugar g 100
oil g 200
eggs g 200
yeast g 80

Ricotta cream
ricotta g 1125
sugar g 340
candied lemon g 100
vanilla to taste
cinnamon oil to taste
chocolate chips to taste

45 81 .n--www.pasticceriainternazionale.com
2011 moc.elanoizanretniaireccitsap.www--n.
110
182
PASRTY

Vanilla and orange cremoso

cream g 725 Blood orange coulis
concentrated orange g 105 blood orange puree g 240
orange zest g 25 orange concentrate g 45
vanilla bean no. 1 sugar g 45
sugar g 140 gelatin sheets g 8
egg yolks g 215 water g 32
gelatin sheets g 15 Heat the puree with the concentrate and sugar, add the soaked gelatine
water g 45 leaves, then place in a mould.
Cook at 83C the cream with the orange concentrate, zest, sugar and
vanilla with egg yolks; add the gelatin and put into moulds. Pistachio Macaroon
almond flour g 125
Orange scent sugar x 6 g 225
Pistachio dacquoise egg whites g 100
pistachio flour g 200 sugar g 30
almond flour g 100 powdered egg whites g 5
icing sugar g 120 green and yellow colouring to taste
flour g 48 Beat the egg whites with sugar and egg white powder, sift together
sugar g 200 sugar, powdered sugar and almond flour, place into the meringue. Work
well and shape the macaroons on Silpat. Bake at 160 C for 10 minutes.
egg whites g 360
lemon zest no. 2 Orange caramel glaze
crushed pistachio kernels g 60 water g 450
toasted pistachios g 70 sugar g 900
Beat the egg whites with sugar, add flour, powdered sugar and crushed
pistachios. Slowly stir into the meringue, then arrange the toasted pi- glucose g 900
stachios. Bake for 7 minutes at 165 C. condensed milk g 600
cold water g 200
Orange Chocolate Mousse gelatin powder g 40
35% mg cream g 250 orange colouring a. r.
orange puree g 250 Heat water, sugar and glucose at about 105C, deglaze with the con-
orange concentrate g 35 densed milk, add gelatin and colouring.
egg yolks g 250 Note cremoso stands for creamy or cremeux.
trimolina g 170
sugar g 105
65% chocolate g 625
cream g 1220
Heat cream, trimolina, puree and orange concentrate, the second cream
and sugar. Pour the hot liquid over the yolks. Cook until the mixture be-
comes thick, then stir in the chocolate pieces and mix well; allow to cool
before adding the cream.

6 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 Cassata
Sponge
flour g 1000
eggs g 1200
egg yolks g 200
melted butter g 100
sugar g 700
honey g 100

Ricotta cream
see Cartocci on page 4

Rum syrup
water g 1000
sugar g 1150
glucose g 150
rum g 300

Line a mould with pistachio marzipan, and distribute a thin layer of vanilla
sponge on the bottom soaked with rum syrup. Fill with ricotta cream, Biagio Settepani
place another layer of sponge to close. Turn over, put a weight on top and
www.pasticceriabruno.com
freeze. When ready to display, apply a thin layer of fondant and decorate
with fruit, as usual. Photos Giancarlo Bononi

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 7
NEWS

THE FLEXIBLE MULTIFUNCTION New Boscolo Etoile Academy

PASTRY CHEF HELPER in Tuscania
Irinox presents the first upgrade of Multifresh, the exclusive blast chilling and
shock freezing system, which combines multiple functions in the one toll. It not
only cools and freezes, but manages leavening and thawing. The dynamic mode
setting, which provides special product-specific cycles (a pastry setting for
croissants, doughs, mousses, creams... and settings for gelato and semi-
freddo), now has new cycles for chocolate and pralines. Meanwhile leavening
cycles have been further enhanced to meet everyday pastry-making needs. For
each food type a detailed study has been made of temperature, air speed, venti-
lation, moisture and time requirements to achieve the best possible chilling and
freezing outcomes. Multifresh is the ideal
everyday helper for the professional, simply
and quickly providing solutions to the routine
intermediate food processing stages. The
aim is to maintain original food freshness
and this is the reason why the air distribution
system has been completely overhauled and
adjusted, so that food is handled gently and
never damaged.
Irinox has always supported and promoted
food events in Italy and around the world. At
Sigep (pavillion B1 stand 160) it is also the
event sponsor of the Junior Pastry World
Cup and the main sponsor of the Italian
Chocolate Championship, choosing Italy's
representatives for the World Chocolate Ma-
sters. During the Sirha, Irinox supports the
Italian team in the 11th Coupe du Monde de
la Ptisserie. www.irinox.com

The Institute of Culinary Arts summons sought after profes-

QUALITY FROM THE ROOT sionals at home and abroad to act as teachers, maintaining
as a guideline the excellence of raw materials, and the
launch of global food trends, the focus being on the student.
Icam places prime im-
Growth over the years has seen the president Rossano Bo-
portance on raw ma-
scolo and his aides expand in various fields until becoming
terials and on the
the Boscolo Etoile Academy. A major change took place with
genuine nature of
the move of the Boscolo Etoile Academy to Tuscania, in the
cocoa. The Italian
province of Viterbo. Here Boscolo aims to consolidate his
company is present in
position through a project dedicated not just to professio-
the areas where
nals, but also to amateurs.
cocoa beans have
The City of Tuscania and the Lazio Region have embraced
been grown for centu-
the project by investing resources and placing the premises
ries, working hand in
in a complex of great historic appeal, the former Church and
hand with local far-
Convent of San Francesco, dating from the thirteenth cen-
mers. This road to ex-
tury, and now suitable as a student campus. The property,
cellence sets out from
which will go to host the courses, offering catering and
the origins and ends
events is surrounded by the typical landscape of central Italy,
with a selection of
where traditional materials are combined with contemporary
extra-dark gourmet
art techniques. The rooms are open to the public every day:
chocolates, such as Grand cru, cru and single-origin. Even
the church provides the link between the Academy and the
the tiniest difference in the geographical location of the plan-
city and contains the culinary museum, a multimedia library
tations, the climate, the morphological characteristics of the
with 200 antique volumes in digital format, shops and local
soil, exposure to sunlight and the genetics of the plantations
products, books and hardware.
have a significant impact on the character of cocoa seeds
In the former medieval convent six high-tech laboratories
and thus of the chocolate that is made from the beans. This strong link is espe-
have been placed: a professional kitchen, two for pastry
cially evident in the two Grand cru varieties, Los Vasquez and Los Palmaritos.
and bread making, a kitchen with individual workstations for
Made using the Hispaniola cocoa, which comes from individual plantations in
amateurs, a bakery-pizzeria with wood oven, an 48-seater
the Dominican Republic, they have distinctive aromas, despite how close to one
auditorium, plus 2 additional teaching rooms. The partner
another the plantations are. Los Palmaritos has a powerful, intense aroma,
companies have contributed to the outfitting by providing
while Los Vasquez is fruitier and pleasantly acidic.
their machines.
Also for the cru and single-origin chocolates, Icam has selected the finest lo-
Outside there will be in spring a 17,000 m2 vegetable garden
cally-grown beans, identifying exclusive plantations and making the very best of
for cultivating raw materials, and an open-air amphitheatre
their first-class genetic heritage. The result is a range of superior-quality choco-
for shows and events. Rumour has it there will be about
lates: Pachiza (from Peru), a cru with a full, rounded flavour, pleasantly acidic;
1,200 professional students per year, and about one thou-
Dominicana (from the Dominican Republic), a sweetish, melt-in-the-mouth sin-
sand amateurs, with 55,000 visitors to the Internet portal last
gle-origin; Madagascar, a single-origin with a balance between acidic and bit-
year, and 740,000 web pages viewed. www.istitutoetoile.it
ter, with a full, rounded cocoa aroma, and Ecuador, a single-origin with a
persistent floral bouquet. Grand cru, cru and single-origin comes in practical
buttons, available in 1 or 4 kg bags, and can be used for the making of cho-
colates and gourmet chocolate bars, mousses, sauces, creams and gelato.
www.icamcioccolato.it

8 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 INNOVATION IN
cHOcOLATE

new
Chocolate rose

Associate
member of

Introducing the new For more information visit:

chefs collection www.dobla.com
EASTER

EASTER TIME

Inside the real shell you can taste gianduja chocolate in white and orange versions.

Gino Fabbri, Bologna

ph. Valrhona

Graziano
Giovannini
Montecatini Terme
Luc Eyriey, France

Antonio Le Rose,
Genova
Pasticceria Pallotti, Bologna
Stefano Laghi, Faenza
10 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 color EX

plus EX

Futura
r200

injection

comfit maxi

Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria dAlba (CN) - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
NEWS

LEGION OF HONOUR TO EMILIA COCCOLO CHIRIOTTI

Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti founder and editor in chief of "Pasticceria Internazionale" and wife of
the founder of Chiriotti Editori, Giovanni Chiriotti has been awarded the prestigious accolade
of Knight of the Legion of Honour, an award announced in an official letter from the President
of the French Republic, Nicolas Sarkozy.
In the letter the President's motives are clear: "the quality of services to France and the atta-
chment shown". Going further into detail, there are obvious references to the work in the sector
of technical publishing: for having given value to confectionary the world over, especially the
French school, and for having contributed to the development and qualitative improvement of pa-
stry making, giving it international exposure.
In addition to the long-time friends and collaborators, those present for this important recognition
included many pastry chefs, representing associations from all over Italy and France, Gabriel
Paillasson guest of honour, Officier de la Legion d'Honneur, President of the Confdration Na-
tionale du Dessert et des Douceurs and the Confdration des Glaciers de France, founding
president of the World Pastry Cup in Lyons and patron of this knighthood.

Visit www.pasticceriainternazionale.it to read the moving speech by Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti

and to see the full photo report.

Above, the moment of giving the prestigious award by the Consul General of France in Turin and Genoa, Vronique Vouland-Aneini. Here, group
photo with pastry chefs. On the right, Emilia and MOF Gabriel Paillasson.

BIASETTO IN BRUXELLES EXCITING NOTES OF COLOUR

Last November the
second pastry shop
by Biasetto was
opened in Bruxel-
les, following Le
Nouvel Espace
Gourmand, which
was inaugurated
three years ago.
Luigi, his brother
Alessandro e their
partners have taken
over the famous
Ptisserie Mahieu A brilliant touch of color on confectio-
of place Dumon, nery products and a perfect cut at tem-
which was founded peratures above and below freezing:
in 1978. 75% of Nappages by Fabbri 1905 are ingre-
the production sold dients for cakes and semifreddos, i.e. superior-quality transparent
in Bruxelles is made icings with a delicate flavour suitable for any kind of dessert.
in Italy, at the Bia- Nappages are available in different flavours, starting with Amarena, the
settos Atelier in top-of-range that brings Fabbri's emblematic shiny red fruit to profes-
Padua, where 32 sional cake-making; Apricot, with its delicious fruity aroma conjuring up
people are employed and working, as Luigi himself explains, as in images of summer; the tropical Passion fruit, with its typical tart taste;
a hospital, with barrack-like rules and chemist-like accuracy!. the Neutral version, giving a shine to cakes without altering their deli-
www.pasticceriabiasetto.it cate flavour; Chocolate Icing, an explosion of flavour enhancing the
gourmand side of any recipe; the classic Strawberry, the scrumptious
Caramel with its luscious character, and the ever-popular Pistachio.
This year a brand-new flavour enriches the Nappages range: Lemon, a
new taste with a delectably tangy hint. www.fabbri1905.com

12 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
EVENTS

THE ACCADEMIA
and the wedding cake

The 17th public meeting of Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani, the professional association gathering some well known Italian pastry chefs,
was held in Brescia in November and was centred on the wedding cake theme, showing a colourful display of ceremony desserts. In this occa-
sion, the Trofeo Pavoni Pasticciere dellAnno 2010 (the Italian pastry chef of the year) was given to Salvatore De Riso from Minori, near Salerno
(www.deriso.it). The next public meeting will take place from 6 to 9 November 2011, probably in Parma, while the technical symposium will be
held in Brescia from 13 to 16 March. www.ampiweb.it

14 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
CHOCOLATE

EMOTIONS
and rationality in chocolate
In issue 16 (download it from www.piwwe.com) we presented
Gianluca Fusto, one of the most outstanding Italian pastry
chefs, who travels in the world in order to learn, share his know-
ledge and teach. His creative mathematics, which brings to-
gether emotions and rationality allows him to be in continuous
evolution, as demonstrated by these recipes.

ARAGUANI AND LIQUORICE

1 recipe = g 1824

UHT cream 35% fat g 680

Araguani 72% chocolate g 810
invert sugar g 125
butter 82% fat g 180
liquorice powder g 29
Boil the cream and invert sugar. Pour it slowly over the chocolate melted
at over 45C and add the liquorice powder. Mix from the centre to create
a shiny elastic knot. This structure must be maintained until the end. When
the mixture is around 40-45C, add the diced cold butter from the fridge.
Double chablon with tempered chocolate.
First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in the
ganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with the
help of a spatula or pipe.

Pouring
Pouring between 38 and 45C depending on the amount of pro-
duct to spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so
the ganaches do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 3 cm by 1 cm.
Crystallization
For 24 hours at 14-18C and a humidity of 60%. Then cut them
and crystallize for 12 hours.
Decor
Place a silver decalcomania on the surface.

16 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 BAROLO CHINATO
1 recipe = 3200 g Gru sugar for coating
icing sugar g 545
Barolo Chinato gel cocoa gru g 606
Nappage Absolu Cristal g 1270 cocoa powder g 48
Barolo Chinato g 677 Place all ingredients in the mixer to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
Bourbon vanilla powder g 11
alcohol Buon Gusto g 42 Assembly
Mix all ingredients together in a graduated jug or cutter. Pay attention Barolo Chinato Gel g 2000
to air bubbles. Dress in boule creuse lait (shells). Close the follo- gru sugar for coating g 1200
wing day. Valrhona boule creuse lait (shells)
Fill shells with milk chocolate. Once crystallized, place them in a bowl
Notes and cover them with milk chocolate slightly lightened with cocoa but-
Nappage Absolu Cristal is a nappage by Valrhona with a neutral ter. Allow them to crystallize and remove the excess with the help of
taste and colour, that can be used hot or cold. a sieve.
Alcohol Buon Gusto is a food-grade alcohol.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 17
CHOCOLATE

Melt the cocoa butter at 40-45C, add the hazelnut oil and cocoa butter,
heat to 45-50C. Mix the praline and start the crystallization at 24-25C.
Pour into a frame of 34x34 cm, 12 mm high, pasted on a sheet of speci-
fic paper previously chablon stenciled with dark chocolate. Allow to cry-
stallize from 24 to 36 hours at 17C and 60% humidity.
Double chablon with tempered chocolate.
First chablon with the help of a pipe directly on paper and then put in the
ganache frame. Second chablon directly on crystallized ganache with the
help of a spatula or pipe.
Pouring
Pouring between 24 and 25C depending on the amount of product to
spread. Smooth and constant motion, minimum pressure so the ganaches
do not have a uniform thickness.
Cutting
Guitar 2 cm by 2 cm.
Crystallization
For 24 hours at 14-18C and a humidity of 60%.
THE PARIANINO Then cut them and crystallize for 12 hours.
Decor
Place decalcomanias on the surface.
1 recipe = 1850 g
*Hazelnut oil was traditionally produced in Piedmont, in the Langhe (the
almonds hilly area in the province of Cuneo), and it was used instead of olive oil,
and hazelnut pralin 66% g 1300 which was too much expensive for peasant families. Nowdays this ancient
tradition revives thanks to the producer Mattia Pariani, from Cortemilia,
cocoa butter g 210 who extracts oil from the local renowned hazelnut variety, i.e. Nocciola
hazelnut paste g 260 Tonda Gentile delle Langhe-Piemonte IGP. http://pariani.blogspot.com
Pariani hazelnut oil* g 55 Gianluca Fusto
clarified liquid butter 1 g 25 www.gianlucafusto.com

A NEW GENERATION OF DRAG

THE DUSTY APPEARANCE OF THE SURFACE HIDES A PASTE WHICH CARRIES UNEXPECTED FLAVOURS TO THE PALATE. WE ARE TALKING OF
DRAG CREATED BY THE GIANLUCA FUSTO AND ANDREA BESUSCHIO DUET. THE TWO PASTRY CHEFS HAVE COME UP WITH FOUR VARIANTS
WITH EVOCATIVE NAMES: MANDY (WITH ALMONDS FROM NOTO), COFFY (PURE BRAZIL ARABICA COFFEE), NOTTY (WITH IGP PIEDMONT HA-
ZELNUTS) AND SALTY (WITH SALTED PEANUTS).
THE COMMON DENOMINATOR OF THE WHOLE LINE IS CHOCOLATE WHITE, DARK OR MILK, DEPENDING ON THE VERSION AND ITS IRREGU-
LAR SHAPE REMINISCENT OF PEBBLES COLLECTED ON THE SEASHORE. THERE ARE DIFFERENT COLOURS (THE GREEN OF MANDY IS STRIKING)
AND TASTES, GIVEN BY REFINED INGREDIENTS SUCH AS PIRAN SALT AND WASABI, SPICES LIKE CINNAMON, AND NERVINE BEVERAGES SUCH AS
COFFEE AND GREEN TEA.

18 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
www.icamprofessionale.it

Italian down to the last drop.

Every last drop of Icam chocolate

contains something truly inimitable

and unique: a passion for taste and

creativity thats Italian through and

through. Sixty years of experience

in the world of chocolate, carefully

selected raw materials, full control

throughout the farming and

production chain and the use of the

most advanced technology currently

available: this is what makes Icam the

last word in quality Italian chocolate.

Icam Linea Professionale is here to

help you turn this quality chocolate into

exquisitely tasty creations that are Italian

right down to the last drop.

I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N .
NEWS

FROM SICILY TO NORMANDY

Palazzolo's family and staff. The outside of the store in Rouen.

Attention to the environment and food security have allowed the Sicilian pastry chef Santi Palazzolo from Cinisi, near Palermo, to open two stores
at Palermo airport and even one in Rouen, the capital of Normandy (France), within walking distance from the famous cathedral. The restaurant is
called Tavola Calda Bistro by Palazzolo. It all started when Emmanuel Gillot and Linda Figlioli, owners of Comunico Plus, fell in love with Santi's
specialties. Today production takes place in Cinisi's laboratories and is then sent on a monthly basis directly to a deposit in Rouen. Currently on
site there is a small workshop where the various products are finished: decorations, brief bakings, and fillings; the possibility of increasing storage
space is currently under consideration.
As for future projects - Santi Palazzolo says - we are working on improving the format used in France and a project is underway for the new ope-
ning, always with the same company, of a store in Paris."

IN THE WORLD WITH TRITTICO EXECUTIVE

Bravo can boast over 40 years of experience in the production
of machines for the daily work of gelato makers and confectio-
ners, and the company has grown thanks to business develop-
ment that expanded from Italy to all over the world.
After the consolidation of the European markets through the
opening of Bravo France in Paris in 1991, Bravo turned to
South America and Australia, where many Italians settled du-
ring the last 50 years, and to the Asian markets, offering great
opportunities in the fields of gelato production and elaborate
confectionery. The success of the multifunctional Trittico Executive abroad is due to its va-
rious programs, enabling to produce gelato, semifreddos, pastry for catering, custards,
mousses, sauces, coulis, ganaches, tempered chocolate, etc. It is Bravos leading product in
Korea and Japan and this expansion enabled to open Bravo Asia in 2008: it was a very impor-
tant step to consolidate the companys presence in these markets and to quickly provide
them an efficient system of technical assistance, customer service, business and consultancy
support through Bravo Trittico Club seminars. After the boom of hotel industry in the Middle
East countries, Trittico was well welcomed also there, thanks to its multifunctional programs
for gelato production, confectionery and catering. A recent development has been the ope-
ning of an office in California in order to enter the North-American market.
This expansion has always been supported by Bravos
presence at international expos, from the Sirha in Lyon
(where Bravo is partner of the Coupe du Monde de la
Ptisserie), to the Sigep in Rimini (sponsorship of the
Gelato World Cup and of the Juniores Pastry World
Cup), from FHA in Singapore (sponsorship of the Asia
Pastry Cup) to Intergelat in Alicante. This year Bravo is
taking part in the most important events in the East
(Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, Sidney), in Dubai and in
Chicago. Morevorer, Bravo has formed partnerships
with many culinary institutes, from the French Pastry
School of Chicago to the At-Sunrice The Academy of
Global Chefs in Singapore. It was also thanks to the
companys presence in France and its demanding cu-
stomers, that Bravo succeeded in giving definition, pre-
cision and reliability to Trittico over the years. We
forecast therefore an excellent 2011 they say in
which we will try to keep the important shares of market
we conquered in the last years, and to implement them
thanks to all those customers trying our every day the
great advantages given by a combined multifunctional
machine. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com
INTERSICOP 2011
The international bakery, pa-
stry and related industries
show, Intersicop 2011,
which is due to stage its 9th
edition between 24th and
28th March 2011, at Feria de Madrid,
continues to reflect its strong commit-
ment to industry. By October 170
companies had already confirmed
their direct participation at the fair or-
ganised by IFEMA, which will occupy
a net exhibition area of 10,000 m2.
The fair continues to rally the support
of the leading trade sector associa-
tions and companies, and the organi-
sing committee, which includes
representatives of the main business
associations for industry in Spain, has
had a new chairman, namely Lorenzo
Alonso, who is also the president of
the Spanish Confederation of Bakery
Organisations, CEOPAN.
The strong level of foreign participa-
tion confirms the growing international
dimension of the event, based on the
attendance of companies from Portu-
gal, France, Germany, Italy and the
Netherlands. This aspect of Intersicop
helps to consolidate its status as the
leading showcase for the Spanish ba-
kery and pastry industry and one of
the leading events of this kind in Eu-
rope. The fair will present the latest
developments and new features, as
well as offering participants an oppor-
tunity to exchange experiences.
www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es

20 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
RECIPES' WINDMILL
BEYOND TIME
Almond and citrus fruit recomposed biscuit obtain an elastic and shiny texture. Add to this preparation the cold cream
brown sugar g 200 and lime peel. Mix for a few minutes. Pour into square thermoformed
thousand-bubble molds and cool.
flour g 200
butter g 200
Namelaka is the Japanese name for creamy.
raw almond flour g 200
orange zest g 1 Strawberry and raspberry stew
lemon zest g 1 strawberry puree g 300
Mix all ingredients and let rest overnight in refrigerator. The next day,
raspberry puree g 200
grate the mixture and bake at 160C for 20 minutes.
When the biscuit is cold, add a small amount of hot molten white cho- lemon juice a.r.
colate (as much as you need to bind the mixture), compact it in a square sugar g 200
steel mold, 1 cm in height, and cool in a blast chiller. pectin g 6
Heat the puree of strawberries and raspberries, mix the sugar and pec-
Namelaka cream with lime and white chocolate tin and add to the puree. Cook until thick, then add the lemon juice.
whole milk g 250
grated lime peel g 10 Assembly
Remove the frozen namelaka cream from the mold and steam with the
glucose g 12
white chablonne mass. Place the cream on a crispy base of recomposed
gelatin g 10 biscuit, pour in irregular fashion the strawberry and raspberry sauce and
white chocolate g 370 garnish with red fruit.
cream g 500
Soak 5 lime rinds in cold cream and put to one side. Boil the milk, glu- Emmanuele Forcone
cose and the rest of lime rinds. Infuse for a few minutes. Filter. Add the Vasto, Chieti
rehydrated gelatin and pour slowly over the melted chocolate, so as to Pasticceria Pannamore

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 21
RECIPES

AAI
Soft base % warm the juice at 75C and filter the grated rind; add the dissolved gela-
almond powder g 150 17.65 tin and, little by little, the white chocolate caramel. Separately, whip the
cream; when the chocolate-orange reaches 40C, gently mix the cream
fine caster sugar g 90 14.2
with a spatula.
moscovado sugar g 30 3.53
eggs g 220 25.88 Milk mousse %
fresh egg whites g 50 5.88 fresh whole milk g 500 22.05
fine caster sugar g 30 14.2 cream 35% fat g 50 2.20
fresh bananas gelatin 150 Bloom g 10 0.44
average ripeness g 280 32.94 milk chocolate 40% g 700 30.86
grated nutmeg to taste cocoa butter g 8 0.35
total weight of kg 0.85 100 whipped cream 35% fat g 1000 44.09
Stir in the cutter with fine blade the eggs, sugar, and ground almonds and
total weight of 2.27 kg 100
grate a little nutmeg to add flavour to the mixture. Separately, beat the egg
Hydrate the gelatin, boil the milk with 50 g of cream, pour the warm mix-
whites and sugar to a meringue. When the mixture is blended, empty it
ture over the melted chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin and emulsify
into a bowl and mix the egg whites gently using a soft spatula. Empty the
with the help of an immersion blender. At 35C add the whipped cream
mixture over a non-stick pad inside the baking tin, sprinkle the surface with
and mix gently.
bananas cut into small regular pieces, and sprinkle the surface with icing
sugar before baking. Static oven preheated to 185C for 18 minutes.
Aai gel %
Chocolate-orange cream % aai juice g 250 94.70
cream 35% fat g 390 34.45 gelatin 200 Bloom g 4 1.52
Sicilian oranges (juice) g 120 10.60 invert sugar g 10 3.79
Tarocco orange no. 1 22,08 total weight of 0.26 kg 100
Heat the juice to 50C with sugar, and add the hydrated gelatin. Aai is
white chocolate g 365 32.24
an exotic fruit from Brazil.
gelatin 150 Bloom g 7 0.62
total weight of 1.130 kg 100 Caramel icing %
Grate the Tarocco orange into the orange juice, cover with plastic wrap
fine caster sugar g 250 27.75
and leave to infuse overnight in the refrigerator. Pour the white chocolate
cut into pieces in a steel pan and bake at 120C for 30 minutes, stirring fresh whole milk g 50 5.55
every 10 minutes to caramelize it evenly. Hydrate the gelatin in cold water, glucose g 210 23.31

22 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 gelatin 200 Bloom g 15 1.66 Spread the dough to 4 mm and bake at 160C for 15 minutes, open
vanilla berry n. 1 0.11 valve. Cool the pastry, chop coarsely, sieve to remove dust and freeze
the pieces obtained, spray using a gun the chocolate mixture onto small
cream 35% fat g 300 33.30
pieces of cold sabl.
milk chocolate 40% g 75 8.32
total weight of 0.9 kg 100 Assembly
Heat the glucose, add the sugar and caramelize to a nice brown colour. Cut out two disks of soft base, diameter 14 cm, height 0.7 cm. Place in
Separately, boil the cream and milk, reduce the sugar stirring with a spoon a ring of 2 cm in height and 14 diameter. Pour the chocolate-orange
and add the pulp of vanilla. Hydrate the gelatin with water, stir the liquid cream weighing out 100 g, and sprinkle with a few pieces of sabl. Blast
mixture with the hot chocolate, add the dissolved gelatin warm, cover with chill to -20C. Take the ring and place over the chocolate-orange cream
plastic wrap and let stand overnight in refrigerator. Icing temperature 34C. 50 g of aai gel. Place in the blast chiller. Place a sheet of acetate on a
flat baking sheet; arrange a circle of 4.5 cm in height and 16 cm in dia-
Sabl % meter, pour in 1 cm of milk mousse and cool. When it begins to congeal,
moscovado sugar g 35 10.67 insert the disk of chocolate-aai cream, cover with more mousse and
fine caster sugar g 45 13.72 cover with a second disc of soft base 14 cm in diameter. Smooth the
edges with the mousse. Blast chill. Remove from mould and glaze with
soft butter g 70 21.34
icing at 34C. Garnish with orange gru and crystalline sugar. Serving
W150-160 00 flour g 60 18.29 temperature 6C.
potato starch g 20 6.10
Maldon salt g 2 0.61 Nutritional values for 100 g
cocoa gru g 10 3.05 energy (kJ) 430.08
24% cocoa powder g 8 2.44 energy (kcal) 102.72
carbohydrates (g) 8.32
cinnamon g 1 0.30
fat (g) 6.13
vanilla powder g 2 0.61 protein (g) 1.47
dark chocolate 70% g 60 18.29
cocoa butter g 15 4.57
Alessandro Dalmasso
total weight of 0.33 kg 100 www. pasticceriadalmasso.com
Mix starting with half the softened butter and flour, add the remaining Avigliana, Torino
flour and knead the minimum necessary to avoid heating the pastry. Photo Remo Caffaro

SPHERE LIMITED EDITION, IS THE DESSERT OF THE FUTURE BY ROBERTO RINALDINI OF RIMINI, A SMALL BUBBLE BLOWN BY HAND, A MICRO DESSERT OF JUST ONE BITE,
MADE IN 50 EXCLUSIVE PAIRS. "IN THE PRESENTATION AND TASTE, HE EXPLAINS I WANTED TO CREATE AN EXPLOSIVE EFFECT IN THE MOUTH THANKS TO THE THIN CRUST OF
SUGAR, WHICH WHEN IT BREAKS DELIVERS TO THE PALATE CREAM WITH AN INTRIGUING STRUCTURE, BETWEEN LIQUID AND CREAMY, WITH HINTS OF CITRUS AND RED FRUITS, THEIR
ACIDITY MAKING THE DESSERT FRESH. THE INGREDIENTS USED ARE SUGAR CANE, STRAWBERRY-SCENTED ESSENTIAL OIL, AND NATURAL RED FOOD COLOURING. SPHERE HAS THE
ADVANTAGE OF BEING CREATED BY HAND, USING LITTLE EQUIPMENT, AND SO CALLING IT A 'SWEET' IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. WWW.RINALDINIPASTRY.COM

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 23
NEWS

RELIABLE MACHINES
The new RTL range (Labotronic and Pastomaster) by Carpigiani includes efficient and ver-
satile machines equipped with the Teorema Ready system, i.e. remote technical diagnosis
and intervention via web. The Labotronic RTL range offers 4 freezing programs (Excellent,
Speed, Hard and Simply), a greater freezing customization and a wider differentiation in
production. The Defrost feature automatically runs in case of an accidental stoppage du-
ring the freezing process, always providing the extraction of frozen gelato and a rapid pro-
duction restart. It is available in four different models (1030, 1545, 2060 and 30100). Also
the Pastomaster range has been updated as RTL: Pastomaster 60 has 5 speed mixing, 7
gelato mix, 4 sauce, 5 speciality and 5 free programs. The special exchange pump, which
is located at the bottom of the tank, guarantees a low homogenization (to have finer and
creamier gelato), a dry bain-marie system (to avoid burning and thus resulting in constant
efficiency) and a low energy consumption, in proportion with the amount of mix to produce.
The versatile Maestro allows to mix, cook, cool and temper with 14 programs for the ma-
king of gelato, cremolata, sauces and toppings, and 18 pastry and chocolate making pro-
grams. The machine has evolved to the HCD version and besides the intelligent and
dynamic handling of the production cycle, the Hot-Cold-Dynamic system modulates the
hot or cold gas depending on the quality and quantity of product; it maintains gelato at the
right consistency and avoids burning and incrusting. Both the hot and cold are produced
by the refrigeration circuit compressor, with four fully integrated circuits managed the by
HCD system itself. Maestro HCD is Teorema Ready and thus designed for remote technical dia-
gnosis and interventions via web.
Carpigiani has applied rounded corners to its laboratory equipment, including the new XPL
range (3 batch freezers, 3 pasteurizers and 2 ageing tanks). The Labo XPL batch freezers have
three variable freezing programs, suitable for gelato, sorbets and cremolata. They are equipped
with the exclusive Hard-O-Time system to keep the production phases under control and
achieve the ideal consistency. The beaters blade is in POM (polyoxymethylene, an engineering
thermoplastic) and has self-adjusting scrapers and no central shaft for the total expulsion of ge-
lato. All models are equipped with the post-refrigeration system that allows to re-activate cold
during the extraction phase, to maintain the consistency of gelato. The Pasto XP pasteurizers are
mix producers with three levels of pasteurization: 65C (for milk-cream mixes), 85C (for milk-
egg mixes) and 90C (for cocoa-milk mixes). The tap for extracting the desired quantity of mix
has a piston that, after every extraction, sends all the mix back into the hopper, thus eliminating
any residues along the pipe. The quality of pasteurization is guaranteed by the Black Out fun- A new generation
ction, which is activated after a sudden loss of electricity or water; the machine calculates the
temperature of the mix to resume the operation in progress or to repeat the pasteurization cycle. of professional moulds
RTL, XPL and Master HCD control panels have the same symbols and large touch pads with
Silikomart launches the Tortaflex mould line
LCD displays and scroll-down menus. Carpigiani has chosen to standardize all control panels,
thus enhancing overall functionality. www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com for cakes, desserts, parfaits... in order to sim-
plify the work of chefs and confectioners. The
new 100% food liquid silicone mould has the
COMFIT AND COMFIT MAXI advantages of silicone flexibility; versatility of
use in blast chillers, traditional or microwave
Established in 1965 by Re- ovens; easy product storage and handiness in
nato Selmi, Selmi started its
mould release and offers itself as an alterna-
activity as a hazelnut paste
processing company and tive to the metal ring traditionally used by con-
only afterwards focused on fectioners. Tortaflex cuts down on preparation
chocolate processing, thus time because it doesnt need any film; moreo-
becoming a specialist in this ver, it doesnt require a gas blowtorch to de-
field; in 1987 Paolo Selmi joi- tach the product from the mould when still
ned his father in the manu-
frozen, keeping its shape unchanged. Another
facturing of tempering and
covering machines. The com- distinctive features is the presence of marks
pany focuses now on the on the sides of the mould, showing the level at
continuous improvement of each cm, to simplify work. Finally, thanks to the
machines and their efficiency, variety of shapes produced by Silikomart, it is
guaranteeing fewer mainte-
possible to match many other moulds, multi-
nance sessions and service, which includes the machines te-
sting at the customers plant. Conceiving and design, form or sixty-by-forty (for instance in the shape
manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and assistance for customers of classical discs or half-spheres) to create
are therefore essential steps of the companys production procedure. special inserts, thus offering a wider variety of
Comfit coating pan is made of AISI 304 steel and is equipped with an tastes and creative solutions. Tortaflex moulds
electronic speed control to optimise the coating of different types and are in white silicone and sold with a highly re-
sizes of products. The introduction of air into the rotating tank cavity is controlled by a coo-
sistant plexiglas 60x40 cm baking-tin/tray.
ling system capable of speedily enlarging the size of products via the introduction of choco-
late. During the following phase a resistance is used to smoothen and polish the surface of www.silikomart.com
products and clean the machine. There is a thermoregulator on the control panel which ena-
bles the adjustment of temperature to suit the required processing.
The technical data of Comfit are: tank capacity 15 kg,
hourly production approx. 15 kg/h, power consumption 1.8
kW single phase 220 volt, cooling system 1100 frigories/h.
The dimensions are w. 720 mm, d. 770 mm, h. 1420 mm.
The technical features of Comfit Maxi are: tank capacity 50-
60 kg, hourly production 50-60 kg/h, power consumption
220 V. single phase. 2.5 kW, cooling system 1900 frigo-
ries/h. The dimensions are w. 1065 mm, d. 1445 mm, h.
1600 mm. Both machines are equipped with interchangea-
ble air filters. www.selmi-group.it

24 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
ITALPROGET. Technologies, projecTs, furnishin g s a n d d e s i g n s fo r b a r s, co n f ecTi o n e r s s h o p s a n d i c e - c r ea m s h o p s

Magic.
enchanting Vision.

Discover Magic: Forceful, fascinating and flexible.

Allow yourself to be bewitched by the magic of ItalProget.

design and technology for a display cabinet able to guarantee total and ideal
visibility from all viewpoints. straight and forceful lines and maximum impact
frontpiece glass panels: a magic solution to give greater appeal and make ice-
cream, confectionery products and hot and cold gastronomy the protagonists.
Thanks to its flexibility, to the possibility of modular units, magic succeeds
in adapting itself to the design of any environment and any dimension.

Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | www.italproget.com Style, quality and technology
SUGAR

PUFFED
POPEYE
Stphane Klein's
fun sugar workpiece

Big Fish
Blown sugar
baking at 168-170C
sugar g 1000
water g 500
glucose 38DE g 350
drops of tartaric acid no. 5-6
(after cooking)

Stphane Klein is an expert in sugar work

and the owner of a school in Belfort, France,
where he teaches the most advanced
techniques. http://atelierdusucre.free.fr

1 For the trousers, use sky blue

sugar. Blow a cone, then mark
the hollow of the knee with a
knife. For the second leg, repeat
the same procedure by folding
the knee a bit more. Glue the
legs, forming the back of the
character.

26
26 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
 2 For the shoes, use light brown
sugar. Start by blowing a ball and
stretch it into a teardrop shape. Then,
hot, finish blowing it on the opening
end of the trousers, so that it fits well.

3 For the torso, use navy blue sugar.

PAVONI
Blow a stretched pear shape, then cut
the end with a hot knife. Remove it from
the tube and glue it to the trousers.

4 For the head use flesh pink sugar and begin by blowing a ball. Form a promi-
nent chin and attach it to the ball. Add the mouth in moulded sugar, then the
eyeballs; paste eyes, eyelids and ears. Add the eyebrows and a tuft of black
sugar. Then glue the head to the torso.

5 For each arm, blow a flesh pink cone. With a

knife, score the fold of the forearm. Form a
plump hand and affix the arm. Attach both arms
on the character and finish by adding a little
scarf and a cap.

Stphane Klein

27
NEWS

THE POWER OF KNOWLEDGE

Dictionary of Confectionary
With more than 2000 words, the "Dictionary of Artisan Confectionary" is sure to
provide a helping hand in the confectioner's workshop

"Knowledge gives the skilled pro awareness
about his work, resulting in well-deserved
satisfaction from a revived expertise", states
the doyen of Italian confectionary, Fulvio
Scolari, in his introduction to the Dictio-
nary of Artisan Confectionary, a new pu-
Dictionary of Artisan
Confectionary
Emilia Chiriotti Enrico Mdail
352 pages - 2000 terms
Bound (2010) - Euro 45
Edited in collaboration
with Bibliotheca Culinaria
To buy the dictionary visit
www.chiriottieditori.it/shop
blication edited by Bibliotheca Culinaria
and Chiriotti Editori.
Scolari adds: "Knowledge has no borders; it
allows those who broadly speaking love to
discover their trade from whatever sur-
rounds them in the workshop, to modern te-
chnology, sales, and new trends to feel
richer inside, more motivated and capable of
acting as the bearers of a great culture.
Hence the slogan used to promote the dic-
tionary, the power of knowledge, because
knowledge, understood as being without
boundaries, in a broad and evolutive sense,
enclosing understanding, ability and passion,
is an instrument and vehicle of culture. This
awareness has resulted in this publication by
Emilia Chiriotti and Enrico Mdail. It is a
wide-ranging work, designed for rapid con-
sultation, with about 2000 terms covering a
wide range of topics relating to the world of
confectionary. Equipment, descriptions of
sweets, ingredients, key players, prepara-
tion and decorating techniques. From basic
mixtures to classical sweets, from the great
Italian leavened sweets to simple biscuits,
from meringues to pice monte, from pra-
line to hot chocolate, and even molecular
confectionary. From the workshop to sales,
from creative packaging to display.
The fruit of a long and painstaking work, the
dictionary helps find the meaning of terms
inviting the attentive and inquisitive reader to
delve deeper. The result is a range of lan-
guages relating to the kitchen, the workshop
and the market; an essential lexicon for all
those in love with the world of sweets.

EXCEEDING ALL EXPECTATIONS

Barely a year after the opening of their brand
new innovation centre, Dobla introduces 40
new eye-catching products under their
Chefs Collection label. Corporate pastry
chef of Dobla Frank Haasnoot says: All
these products are handcrafted and unique.
At Dobla we want to stay ahead of competition, and we always
strive to set the trends rather than following them. The products that
we have developed are based around eight different themes, ranging
from Honeymoon, Winter to Asian, Christmas, etc. We work with different shapes, structures, colors
and finishing touches like sugar or golden sparkles. Take for example the Crinkle, referring to the Ho-
neymoon theme, which has such a unique structure and shine, brightening up any cake. The Rising
Sun is mostly unique because of its color, that is not just yellow or orange, but a perfect flow of two
different colors, just like the sun.
All the 40 new products, which were introduced to a group of pastry lovers at the Dobla Experience
event, are on show at Sirha in Lyon (Hall 6, Stand D40), where. Dobla is also a supporter of the
Coupe du Monde de la Ptisserie. www.dobla.com

28 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
DRINKS

REFRESHING SIPS
Sorbet, yogurt and coffee are enhanced with the aroma of whiskey

Silverado
orange sorbet g 50
neutral yogurt g 50
espresso cl 3
Drumbuie cl 2
Canadian Whisky cl 2

Prepare in the blender with a few ice chips, serve in

a fancy glass and garnish as desired.

Roberto Bianchi
Thanks to the Institute "A. Prever" of Pinerolo
Photo Remo Caffaro

30 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
TECHNOLOGIES, PRO J EC TS, F U R N I S H I N G S A N D D E S I G N S FO R B A R S, CO N F EC T I O N E R S S H O P S A N D I C E - C R EA M S H O P S

Chapeau!

To those who, for 20 years, have chosen excellence

in technology and style of ItalProget design
Well done to all those who have chosen to see their dreams come to life by means
of our ideas, to all those who believed in our project. Well done to those who shared,
together with us, in the creation and renewal of their bar, confectioners shop or
their point of sale. Well done to those who decided to offer their clientele all the
security of our exclusive and certified technologies and the unmistakeable elegance
of Made in Italy planning and design. Well done to those who chose ItalProget.

Via Ponte di Ferro 85 | Bettona (Pg) Italy | T. +39.075.9869071 | info@italproget.com www.italproget.com

CUISINE
THE SWEET AND COLD
side of the territory
INTERVIEW WITH FRANCO ALIBERTI, PASTRY CHEF OF RISTORANTE VITE OF SAN PATRIGNANO
Young, enterprising, passionate and, as he defines
himself, "a bumbling fool", he's Franco Aliberti, born
in 1985, pastry chef of Ristorante Vite in San Patri-
gnano, where he works along with chef Fabio Rossi
and a close-knit team. Backed by his family, he left
his land to chase a dream: to learn from the great ma-
sters and become a professional. The apprenticeship
took him all over Italy and beyond, during which he
met great teachers who have left their mark and have
helped him develop. He knows what he wants: to
study, learn, observe, interpret and customize. Having
chosen San Patrignano, he could get down to busi-
ness. For him pastry making is passion, fun, experi-
mentation, alchemy: it is the declination of the territory
he lives in, which allows him to create his own world
of colours, flavours and sensations. All seasoned with elements of
fusion, and myriad references, but especially with a good dollop of
fun. We met him for an interview. As usual he was brimming with
energy and joie de vivre.
Let's start with you and your training: when did you realize
you wanted to make pastry?
I attended the first two years at the Istituto Alberghiero in Salerno,
then, at sixteen, following in the footsteps of my brother, I moved to
Salsomaggiore Terme, where I finished school. My passion for pa-
stry comes from my mother who always used to let me mess up her
kitchen and experiment. Every gesture was a game full of passion
and curiosity; it is the same game that I still carry around with me and
that makes me love this job.
Who has influenced your career most?
All have given me something important: the experience in France
with Alain Ducasse opened my mind; Massimo Spigaroli conveyed
the importance of teamwork; Corrado Assenza, respect for raw ma-
terials and for those who produce them; Gino Fabbri, willpower;
Gianluca Fusto, a 360-degree view of the world of sweets; Gen-
naro Esposito, the joy of this work; Leonardo Di Carlo, humility;
Gualtiero Marchesi, the importance of always remembering where
we come from.
And, last but not least, Massimiliano Alajmo, and his family, whose
restaurant Le Calandre, near Padua, I worked in for almost four
years. It is difficult to explain in a few words what I learned, but there
m p l e x i t y i s s i m p l icity"
stage of
last stage co
of complexity
"The last
"The is simplicity"
32 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
is one sentence that accompanies me every day
and that sums up the best of his teaching: "The
last stage of complexity is simplicity."
What makes an excellent dessert?
The right balance of character, tastes, colours,
feelings and the appropriate use of raw materials,
so that it can offer its best.
What do you look for in its creation?
Excellent raw materials, preferably a little-known
ingredient to intrigue the customer; the processing
method, to be able to respect it without compro-
mising its taste, and the technique that exalts it.
How do you create your dessert menu?
Over long periods of testing, that can last for
years. The starting point is seasonality and local
produce, followed by demand and customer preference. When I
create a new item I begin with the name the dessert could acquire.
I then move on to the design and I decide which plate to use for it.
I also think of how to stir the emotions of my customers so that
they become accomplices of my work and are left with a pleasant
memory.
Is there one sweet more than any other that you consider to
be your speciality?
The classic caramelized puff pastry with vanilla cream and ra-
spberries.
What raw materials do you prefer to work with?
Spices, herbs, chocolate, vegetables, fruits: anything edible!
And what ingredients make the difference in a cake?
There isn't one in particular; the difference comes from the soul, the
identity comes from the creator who conveys a specific and sponta-
neous emotional message.
How do you seek balance?
Through a continuous study of simple elements rich in beneficial
properties for our body, such as water and oil, but mostly thanks to
many samplings and experiments using different combinations.
How important is it to know ingredients and work methods?
It is important to know the raw material right from its origin in order
to understand its properties and the best time to use it. In addi-
tion to this you must have an excellent knowledge of the metho-
dology and techniques of the trade: it is the only way to achieve
excellent results.
Plated desserts: what is its underlying philosophy?
It's all about getting to the customer using simplicity, lightness, and
proper balance all within a complex study aimed at stimulating tastes:
sour, sweet, salty, and bitter. This must always go hand in hand with
the other senses, placing an emphasis on touch and sight.
What equipment and techniques could you not do without?
The blast chiller, the whisks, the vacuum machine and a thermome-
ter. If you know the techniques they can be adapted to suit the
equipment.
The future sees a growing synergy between salty and sweet,
cooking and gelato: how do you interpret this?
Their fusion will be increasingly important thanks to the exchange of
techniques, processes and ingredients. The possibility for the pastry
chef to learn more about the savoury world, and vice versa for the
chef, is an enrichment that gives a broader view of gastronomy, and
it provides the chance to grow and learn more. It is an important step
What are the greatest difficulties during the preparation of a
sweet?
Using the same products as others without repeating yourself; kee-
ping one step ahead of them and searching for something beyond
what you know. There is a fundamental step in creating a new re-
cipe that I try always to put into practice: be aware of your knowledge
but at the same time, be able to detach yourself for a moment, just
long enough to create something new.
What do you suggest to young people who embark on this
career?
If there is passion and desire you can go the distance: this of course
goes with a lot of dedication, patience, humility, work and respect for
those who teach. Do not give up at the first hurdle; in fact any hic-
cup is a stimulus to continue and improve. Only in this way can a
dream come true.
Monica Onnis

that can stimulate the curiosity and thirst for knowledge and experi-
mentation of operators.
Why oil?
It is a dressing of high quality that belongs to the Mediterranean tra-
dition. Not everyone knows that fats, along with proteins and car-
bohydrates are macronutrients essential for the proper functioning of
our body: they provide non synthesised fatty acids, called essentials,
such as oleic and linoleic acid that stimulate the absorption of solu-
ble vitamins and carotenoids. The oil is composed of 14.5% satu-
rated fatty acids, 73% monosaturates and 7.5% polyunsaturated
fats: they have a positive effect on lowering bad cholesterol and in-
creasing good cholesterol. On this basis I tried to understand what
benefits this could bring to sweet recipes: it is a vegetable fat with
easily digested components, it has a rapid point of fusion on the pa-
late, it is great for fixing flavours, and in some preparations it con-
veys a sense of heat. I use extra virgin oil with an acidity below 2%,
produced by the community of San Patrignano, cultivated on the
hills of Coriano, with olive cultivars such as correggiolo, leccino, mo-
raiolo, pendulum and rossina, all hand-picked and cold pressed.
Where will confectionary go over the next few years?
We will see a return to tradition with more respect for raw materials
and a focus on simplicity. Instead of a group of tastes, they will be
few and well defined.
What do you think of dessert menus in Italian restaurants?
Unfortunately in Italy the restaurant pastry chef is not always present;
most of the time you are faced with an offer that for one reason or
another is lacking in ideas. Lately, though, the importance of pre-
dessert and dessert has been growing, facilitating an increase in
quality and greater attention from caterers.

2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 33
CUISINE

SPRING
extra virgin olive oil biscuit

Oil structured biscuit Blood orange and dill granita

cocoa butter g 40 blood orange juice g 300
extra virgin olive oil g 200 syrup 30 B g 80
centrifuged dill g 30
Melt the cocoa butter and slowly drizzle in the oil. Mix well and pour into gelatine g 2
the Pacojet, freeze and process to obtain a very light raised mass. Form Centrifuge the pulp of red oranges and dill, then mix the two juices with
the slab of butter and refrigerate. the syrup 30 B, in which was dissolved gelatine. Stir and check for sa-
extra virgin olive oil butter g 240 fety with the refractometer not exceeding 21-22Brix. Freeze, cut with
icing sugar g 100 a knife and store in freezer.
almond flour g 60
0 flour g 120 Juniper jam
00 flour g 350 juniper g 400
eggs g 100 Cover the juniper with water and bring to a boil. Drain and set aside the
water obtained, repeat three times, and proceed:
salt g 0.6
cooking water g 1300
baking powder g 5
cooked juniper g 400
vanilla bean no 1
Since the oil has a low melting point, use the same procedure as for a sugar g 600
classic pastry. However, in the mixing bowl mix the flour, salt, sugar and glucose g 100
baking powder. Mix with the leaf, then add eggs and vanilla and butter vanilla bean no 1
oil. As soon as the pastry is firm place in the fridge for 3 hours. Grate the Whisk together sugar and cooked juniper, cook gently combining the re-
pastry with the wide part of the grater to obtain many flakes and let stand maining ingredients until you get a thicker syrup. Blend, sieve and store
in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bake at 164C with the valve closed in refrigerator.
for 13 minutes. Allow to cool and pass gently through a sieve: in this way
the fine dust is removed and the flakes are rounded to look like pebbles. Juniper crunch
Store in sealed jars. Isomalt g 320
Geranium gelato juniper jam g 45
Cook and allow the Isomalt to dissolve properly. Spread the sugar on
milk g 2250 Silpat and cool. Pulverize the sheet of sugar produced in a cutter, then
sugar g 200 with the help of a small strainer sprinkle on Silpat. Bake at 168C for 10
milk powder g 250 minutes and once removed from the oven, before the crunch cools, with
sugar g 200 the help of a spatula, spread out in a thin layer, turn upside downon ba-
king paper and remove from the Silpat. Store in airtight containers.
stabilizer g 14
cream g 200
For decoration
geranium leaves g 120 edible flowers of different colours.
Bring the milk to 30C, add the milk powder and sugar a little at a time,
stirring constantly; when at 60C add the sugar and the stabilizer pre-
viously mixed together. Bring it to 81 - 82C, filter, add in the cream and
allow to cool to 35C. Finally, incorporate the geranium leaves. Allow to IN THE BLOOD ORANGE GRANITA OF CALABRIA, THE SWEET JUICE
infuse for 3 hours. Strain and let stand for at least 10 hours. Freeze in IS COMBINED WITH A DILL CENTRIFUGE TO HARMONIZE THE TASTE
Pacojet and whip at the moment of serving. AND ADD AROMA TO THE GRANITA. EDIBLE FLOWERS RECALL THE
BEGINNING OF THE SPRING BLOOM AND REQUIRE A DELICATE GE-
LATO, FLAVOURED WITH A LIGHT TOUCH OF LEMONADE, FOLLO-
WED BY THE FRESHNESS OF WHITE, A SIGN OF PEACE FOR THE
NEW SEASON: THIS WAS THE ORIGIN OF GERANIUM GELATO. THE
CHEWY PART, CONSISTING OF A PEBBLY EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
BISCUIT REFLECTS MY PHILOSOPHY: TO LIGHTEN THE CAKE BY RE-
PLACING FAT WITH OIL, FOR THE BENEFIT OF CRISPNESS AND FLA-
VOUR. AND FINALLY THE SPARKLING ITEM, AN ALARM FOR THE
TASTE BUDS: THE THIN CRUNCH FLAVOURED WITH JUNIPER.

Franco Aliberti
Ristorante Vite of San Patrignano
www.ristorantevite.it

34 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
NEWS

ITALIAN DELIGHTS IN LONDON

Ghezzi, Yaniv Stein and Bruschi on the opening day.

CHOCOGANG IS COMING
Rhino, chim-
panzee, snail,
rabbit, ele-
phant, sheep,
cow, hedge-
hog, bear, tor-
toise: Pavoni
Alessandro Ghezzi and Palmiro Bruschi in front of Buckingham Palace. Italia presents
the new Cho-
Since last July in London you can sample traditional Italian gelato: the first Gino cogang line of
sales outlet has been opened, run by a company headed by Alessandro thermoformed
Ghezzi, born in Russia but originally from Tuscany, a resident for over 15 years moulds to
in London and Yaniv Stein, an Israeli-cum-Londoner. The Italian component is create 10 cho-
Palmiro Bruschi, head of production, personnel training and franchising. colate animals
The shop is run by Raul Nardino of Conegliano Veneto and Marianna Raiteri of quickly and ea-
Acqui Terme, and it seeks to represent Italian excellence. Popular flavours with sily. Choco-
the English are ginger gelato with dark chocolate, or in keeping with local ta- gang will
stes, the Guinness sorbet, peanut butter gelato and, among the Italian special- enliven sprin-
ties, you can enjoy special flavours like Grandma's cookies, egg biscuits gtime with a touch of elegance, in accordance with Pavoni pro-
whisked in the classic fiordilatte, Vin Santo and Cantucci to represent Tuscany, duct range for professional pastry chefs. Each kit includes
Sorrento Lemon, extra virgin olive oil gelato, chocolate and Chianti, celery and assembling instructions to obtain 2 animals, heights ranging from
Parmigiano, and White Coffee. New openings have been scheduled for Japan 130-195 mm, weight 300 g. The company product range is on
Progetto2_Layout 1 13/12/10
and Brazil. 10.54 Pagina 1
www.ginogelato.com show at the Sirha in Lyon, Stand 6H67. www.pavonitalia.com

24-28
MARCH
2011

ORGANISED BY:

IFEMA CALL CENTRE

INTERNATIONAL CALLS (34) 91 722 30 00

FAX (34) 91 722 57 91

www.intersicop-madrid.ifema.es IFEMA Feria de Madrid
28042 Madrid
Spain

intersicop-madrid@ifema.es

36 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
RECIPES

RECIPES FROM
THE IFSE
TAGLIOLINI WITH VEGETABLE RAGOUT
FOR THE TAGLIOLINI FOR THE RAGOUT
00 wheat flour g 300 Pachino cherry tomatoes g 80
semolina flour g 80 potatoes g 80
cornmeal g 30 Parmigiano Reggiano
eggs g 150 cheese g 30
egg yolks no 3 red onions from Tropea g 60
extra virgin olive oil g 5 roasted red peppers g 100
salt to taste lard g 40
Put all the ingredients for the dough in a mixing machine with a leek g 40
pinch of salt; knead to get a smooth texture. Let rest in the fridge 0 wheat flour to taste
for 30 minutes, wrapped in a plastic wrap. Roll out the dough eggplants g 100
into 3 mm-thick sheets and cut it into 20 cm long tagliolini with a asparagus g 100
pasta wheel.
basil leaves no 12
butter g 40
garlic cloves g 40
marjoram sprigs no 2
extra virgin olive oil to taste
After peeling the asparagus and cutting off their tips, that will be
blanched, cut the stems into small strips. In a saut pan, sweat
the julienned onions from Tropea in extra virgin olive oil and a
crushed garlic clove; add asparagus, peppers and eggplants,
saut on a high heat and cook till done, leaving the asparagus
crunchy; add the hand-torn basil and the finely chopped marjo-
IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) ram.
is an association based in Piobesi Torinese, near Torino, founded to In the meantime, peel and seed the cherry tomatoes and cut
spread Italian cuisine philosophy and focusing on health aspects and them into wedges.
Melt the butter with a little extra virgin olive oil, add garlic and
gastronomic tradition. The school is directed by Raffaele Trovato and
saut, add the pounded lard, the blanched potatoes and dice
classes are attended by Italian and foreign students. small. Season with salt and pepper, add the vegetables and keep
www.ifse.it cooking for some more minutes.
www.ifse-world.com Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, toss it in a saut pan with
www.foodfashion.it the vegetable ragout, adding the tomatoes. Before taking off the
heat, add the grated Parmigiano Reggiano and a drizzle of extra
virgin olive oil.
IFSE - Italian Food Style Education
Photo Marco Beltramo

INTERNATIONAL GELATO MACHINES

High quality production, long term warranty (2 years), low water and energy con-
sumption, simplicity of use and maintenance, efficient and quick making of gelato:
these are the distinctive features of Valmar
gelato machines, which are highly appreciated
by many international customers.
Valmar was founded more than 20 years ago
in Nuova Goriza, Slovenia, and now its machi-
nes are installed in famous professional scho-
ols: in France the Ecole du Grand Chocolat
Valrhona in Tain lHermitage, the cole Natio-
nale Suprieure de la Ptisserie (ENSP) in
Yssingeaux and the cole des Dessert dAlain
Chartier in Theix.
The presence of our machines in these scho-
ols explains Luigi Ardizzone, sales manager
, it is not only a source of pride, but it is also
a strategic point because of the many profes-
sionals from all over the world that can appre-
ciate Valmar. We choose to be in the places
where tomorrows professionals are trained.
www.valmar.eu

38 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18 39
 THE PASTRY WORLD
MEETS IN LYON
TEAMS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ARE COMPETING
IN LYON IN THE 11TH EDITION OF THE COUPE DU
MONDE DE LA PTISSERIE (WORLD PASTRY CUP),
ON OCCASION OF THE 15TH SIRHA. EMMANUELE FOR-
CONE (SUGAR), DOMENICO LONGO (ICE), AND DAVIDE
COMASCHI (CHOCOLATE) ARE THE MEMBERS
OF THE ITALIAN TEAM. www.cmpatisserie.com

The Italian team (in the front

row) with some of the sponsors
and trainers. From left, Enrico
Bardini of Agrimontana, Gian-
carlo Cortinovis, Vittorio San-
toro of Cast Alimenti, Luca
Gennai of Irinox, Livia Chiriotti
of "Pasticceria Internazionale",
Alessandro Dalmasso and
Tamar Marchand of Valrhona.

THE ITALIAN TEAM THANKS ITS SPONSORS

40 2011 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 18
My world has changed.
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Multi Fresh, a new way of working

which goes beyond blast chilling.
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thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen
tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE. T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com