3306 Troubleshoot

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Testing and Adjusting

3306 DIRECT INJECTION ENGINE FOR CATERPILLAR BUILT MACHINES
Media Number -SENR2057-03 Publication Date -01/12/1992 Date Updated -30/04/2010
SENR20570002
Testing And Adjusting
Introduction
NOTE: For Specifications with illustrations, make reference to Specifications for 3306 Direct
Injection Vehicular Engine With New Scroll Fuel System, Form No. SENR2056. If the
Specifications in Form SENR2056 are not the same as in the Systems Operation and the Testing
and Adjusting, look at the printing date on the back cover of each book. Use the Specifications
given in the book with the latest date.
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting can be difficult. The Troubleshooting Index gives a list of possible problems. To
make a repair to a problem, make reference to the cause and correction on the pages that follow.
This list of problems, causes and corrections will only give an indication of where a possible
problem can be, and what repairs are needed. Normally, more or other repair work is needed
beyond the recommendation in the list.
Remember that a problem is not normally caused only by one part, but by the relation of one part
with other parts. This list is only a guide and cannot give all possible problems and corrections.
The serviceman must find the problem and it source, then make the necessary repairs.
Troubleshooting Index
1. Engine Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On.
2. Engine Will Not Start.
3. Misfiring Or Running Rough.
4. Stall At Low rpm.
5. Sudden Changes In Engine rpm.
6. Not Enough Power.
7. Too Much Vibration.
8. Loud Combustion Noise.
9. Loud Noise (Clicking) From Valve Compartment.
10. Oil In Cooling System.
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11. Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine.

12. Fuel Consumption Too High.
13. Loud Noise From Valves Or Valve Operating Components.
14. Little Movement Of Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Clearance.
15. Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free.
16. Oil At The Exhaust.
17. Little Or No Valve Clearance.
18. Engine Has Early Wear.
19. Coolant In Lubrication Oil.
20. Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke.
21. Too Much White Or Blue Smoke.
22. Engine Has Low Oil Pressure.
23. Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil.
24. Engine Coolant Is Too Hot.
25. Exhaust Temperature Is Too High.
26. Starter Motor Does Not Turn.
27. Alternator Gives No Charge.
28. Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular.
29. Alternator Charge Is Too High.
30. Alternator Has Noise.
Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On
Probable Cause:
1. Battery Has Low Output:
Make Reference to Problem 27.
2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:
3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:
4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:
5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:
If the crankshaft cannot be turned after the drive equipment is disconnected, remove the fuel
nozzles and check for fluid in the cylinders while the crankshaft is turned. If fluid in the
cylinders is not the problem, the engine must be disassembled to check for other inside
problems. Some of these inside problems are bearing seizure, piston seizure, wrong pistons
installed in the engine, and valves making contact with pistons.
Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start
Probable Cause:
1. Slow Cranking Speed:
Make reference to Problem 27.
2. No Fuel In The Housing For The Fuel Injection Pumps:
Fill the housing for the fuel injection pumps with fuel with the priming pump. Remove the
air with the bleed valve.
3. Dirty Fuel Filter:
Install new fuel filter.
4. Dirty or Broken Fuel Lines:
Clean or install new fuel lines as necessary.
5. No Fuel To Cylinders:
Put fuel in fuel tank. "Prime" (remove the air and/or low quality fuel from the fuel system).
6. Bad Quality Fuel:
Remove the fuel from the fuel tank. Install a new fuel filter element. Put a good grade of
clean fuel in the fuel tank.
7. Fuel Has "Cloud Point" Higher Than Atmospheric Temperature ("Cloud Point" =
Temperature Which Makes Wax Form In Fuel):
Drain the fuel tank lines, and fuel injection pump housing. Change the fuel filter. Fill the
tank with fuel which has the correct "cloud point" and remove the air from the system with
the priming pump.
8. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:
Make adjustment to timing.
9. Over fueling Spring Not Installed:
Install over fueling spring.
Problem 3: Misfiring Or Running Rough
Probable Cause:
1. Air In The Fuel System:
Find air leak in the fuel system and correct. Remove air from fuel system. See Fuel System
in Testing and Adjusting.
2. Fuel Pressure is Low:
Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks or bad bends in the fuel line between
fuel tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure at the
fuel injection pump housing. If fuel pressure at high idle is lower than 105 kPa (15 psi),
install a new filter element. If fuel pressure is still low, check the pumping spring and the
check valves in the fuel transfer pump.
3. Leak or Break in Fuel Line Between Injection Pump and Injection Valve:
Install a new fuel line.
4. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Injection Pump(s):
Run engine at rpm that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Then loosen a fuel line
nut on the injection valve for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening
the fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump and
injection valve for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.
5. Fuel System Not Timed Correctly to Engine:
Make adjustment to timing if necessary.
6. Wrong Valve Clearance:
Make adjustment, See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
7. Bent or Broken Push Rod:
Replacement of push rod is necessary.
8. Worn Valve Seat or Face of Valve:
Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed.
Problem 4: Stall At Low rpm
Probable Cause:
1. Idle rpm Too Low:
Make adjustments to governor so idle rpm is the same as given in the Fuel Setting And
Related Information Fiche.
2. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):
nut on the injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where
loosening the fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump
and injection valve for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.
Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm)
Probable Cause:
1. Failure of Governor or Fuel Injection Pump:
Look for damaged or broken springs, linkage or other parts. Remove the governor. Check
for free travel of the fuel rack. Be sure fuel injection pumps are installed correctly. Check
for correct governor spring. Install new parts for those that have damage or defects.
Problem 6: Not Enough Power
Probable Cause:
1. Air In The Fuel System:
Find air leak in the fuel system and correct. Remove air from fuel system. See FUEL
SYSTEM in Testing and Adjusting.
2. Fuel Pressure Is Low:
Make sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Look for leaks, or bad bends, in the fuel line
between fuel tank and fuel transfer pump. Look for air in the fuel system. Check fuel
pressure at the fuel injection pump housing. If fuel pressure at high idle is lower than 105
kPa (15 psi), install a new fuel filter element. If fuel pressure is still low, check the pumping
spring and the check valves in the fuel transfer pump.
4. Constant Bleed Valve Stays Open or Closed:
Install new parts if needed.
5. Leaks in Air Inlet System:
Check the pressure in the air inlet manifold. Look for restrictions in the air cleaner.
6. Governor Linkage:
Make adjustment to get full travel of linkage. Install new parts for those that have damage
or defects.
7. Wrong Valve Clearance:
Make adjustment, See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting
nut on the injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where
loosening the fuel line nut does not change the way the engine runs. Test the injection pump
and injection valve for that cylinder. Install new parts where needed.
10. Fuel Setting Too Low:
Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
11. Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposits or Other Causes of Friction:
Make inspection and repair of turbocharger as necessary.
Problem 7: Too Much Vibration
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Bolt in Nut Holding Pulley or Damper:
Tighten bolt or nut.
2. Pulley or Damper Has A Defect:
Install a new pulley or damper.
3. Fan Blade Not in Balance:
Loosen or remove fan belts and operate engine for a short time at the rpm that the vibration
was present. If vibration is not still present, make a replacement of the fan assembly.
4. Engine Supports Are Loose, Worn, or Have a Defect:
Tighten all mounting bolts. Install new components if necessary.
5. Misfiring or Running Rough:
Make reference to Problem 3:
Problem 8: Loud Combustion Noise (Knock)
Probable Cause:
Run engine at rpm that gives maximum combustion noise. Then loosen a fuel line nut on the
injection pump for each cylinder, one at a time. Find the cylinder where loosening the fuel
line nut stops the combustion noise. Test the injection pump and injection valve for that
cylinder. Install new parts where needed.
Problem 9: Loud Noise (Clicking) From Valve Compartment
Probable Cause:
1. Damage to Valve Spring(s) or Locks:
Install new parts where necessary. Locks with defects can cause the valve to slide into the
cylinder. This will cause much damage.
2. Not Enough Lubrication:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high
rpm, but only a small flow of oil at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those
sending oil to the cylinder head.
3. Too Much Valve Clearance:
Make adjustment. See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
4. Damage to Valves:
Make a replacement of the valve(s) and make an adjustment as necessary.
Problem 10: Oil In Cooling System
Probable Cause:
1. Defect In Core of Oil Cooler:
Install a new core in the oil cooler.
2. Defect in Head Gasket:
Install a new head gasket.
Problem 11: Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine
Probable Cause:
1. Failure of Bearing For Connecting Rod:
Inspect the bearing for the connecting rod and the bearing surface on the crankshaft. Install
new parts when necessary.
2. Damage to Timing Gears:
Install new parts where necessary.
3. Damage to Crankshaft:
Make replacement of the crankshaft.
Problem 12: Fuel Consumption Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Fuel System Leaks:
Large changes in fuel consumption may be the result. Inspect the fuel system for leaks and
make repairs as necessary.
2. Fuel and Combustion Noise (Knock):
Small increases in fuel consumption may be the result of fuel nozzles with defects, rough
running, or factors causing loss of power. See Problem 3 and Problem 6:
Make an adjustment to fuel injection timing.
Problem 13: Loud Noise From Valves Or Valve Drive Components
Probable Cause:
1. Damage to Valve Spring(s):
Make replacement of parts with damage.
2. Damage to Camshaft:
Make replacement of parts with damage. Clean engine thoroughly.
3. Damage to Valve Lifter:
Clean engine thoroughly. Make a replacement of the camshaft and valve lifters. Look for
valves that do not move freely. Make an adjustment to valve clearance. See the Subject
Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
4. Damage to Valve(s):
Make a replacement of the valve(s) and make an adjustment as necessary.
Problem 14: Little Movement Of Rocker Arm And Too Much Valve Clearance
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Valve Clearance:
Make adjustment. See the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
2. Not Enough Lubrication:
Check lubricant in valve compartment. There must be a strong flow of oil at engine high
rpm, but only a small flow at low rpm. Oil passages must be clean, especially those sending
oil to the cylinder head.
3. Rocker Arm Worn at Face That Makes Contact With Valve:
If there is too much wear, install new rocker arms. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see
the Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
4. End of Valve Stem Worn:
If there is too much wear, install new valves. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Subject Valve Clearance in Testing and Adjusting.
5. Worn Push Rods:
If there is too much wear, install new push rods. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see
6. Valve Lifters Worn:
If there is too much wear, install new valve lifters. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see
7. Damage to Valve Lifters:
Install new valve lifters. Check camshaft for wear. Check for free movement of valves or
bent valve stem. Clean engine thoroughly. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
8. Worn Cams on Camshaft:
Check valve clearance. Check for free movement of valves or bent valve stems. Check for
valve lifter wear. Install a new camshaft. Make adjustment of valve clearance, see the
Problem 15: Valve Rotocoil Or Spring Lock Is Free
Probable Cause:
1. Damage to Locks:
Locks with damage can cause the valve to fall into the cylinder. This will cause much
damage.
2. Damage to Valve Spring(s):
Install new valve spring(s).
Problem 16: Oil At The Exhaust
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Oil in the Valve Compartment:
Look at both ends of the rocker arm shaft. Be sure that there is a plug in each end.
2. Worn Valve Guides:
Reconditioning of the cylinder head is needed.
3. Worn Piston Rings:
Inspect and install new parts as needed.
4. Running Engine Too Long At Low Idle:
Don't let the engine run for long periods of time at low idle.
Problem 17: Little Or No Valve Clearance
Probable Cause:
1. Worn Valve Seat or Face of Valve:
Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed. Make adjustment of valve clearance. See the
Problem 18: Engine Has Early Wear
Probable Cause:
1. Dirt in Lubrication Oil:
Remove dirty lubrication oil. Install a new oil filter element. Put clean oil in the engine.
2. Air Inlet Leaks:
Inspect all gaskets and connections. Make repairs if leaks are present.
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3. Fuel Leakage Into Lubrication Oil:
This will cause high fuel consumption and low engine oil pressure. Make repairs if leaks are
present. Install new parts where needed.
Problem 19: Coolant In Lubrication Oil
Probable Cause:
1. Failure of Oil Cooler Core:
Install a new core for the oil cooler.
2. Failure of Cylinder Head Gasket:
Install a new cylinder head gasket. Tighten the bolts holding the cylinder head, according to
Specifications.
3. Crack or Defect in Cylinder Head:
Install a new cylinder head.
4. Crack or Defect in Cylinder Block:
Install a new cylinder block.
5. Failure of Seals for Cylinder Liners:
Make a replacement of the seals.
Problem 20: Too Much Black Or Gray Smoke
Probable Cause:
1. Not Enough Air For Combustion:
Check air cleaner for restrictions. Check inlet manifold pressure. Inspect turbocharger for
correct operation.
2. Bad Fuel Injection Nozzle(s):
Test all nozzles. Install new nozzles if test shows replacement is needed.
Problem 21: Too Much White Or Blue Smoke
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Lubrication Oil in Engine:
Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine. Do
not put too much oil in engine.
2. Misfiring or Running Rough:
Make Reference to Problem 3:
Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed.
5. Worn Piston Rings:
Install new piston rings.
6. Failure of Turbocharger Oil Seal:
Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.
Problem 22: Engine Has Low Oil Pressure
Probable Cause:
1. Defect in Oil Pressure Gauge:
Install new gauge.
2. Dirty Oil Filter or Oil Cooler:
Check the operation of bypass valve for the filter. Install new oil filter elements if needed.
Clean or install new oil cooler core. Remove dirty oil from engine. Put clean oil in engine.
3. Diesel Fuel in Lubrication Oil:
Find the place where diesel fuel gets into the lubrication oil. Make repairs as needed.
Remove the lubrication oil that has diesel fuel in it. Install a new oil filter element. Put clean
oil in the engine.
4. Too Much Clearance Between Rocker Arm Shaft and Rocker Arms:
Check lubrication in valve compartment. Install new parts as necessary.
5. Oil Pump Suction Pipe Has A Defect:
Replacement of pipe is needed.
6. Relief Valve for Oil Pump Does Not Operate Correctly:
Clean valve and housing. Install new parts as necessary.
7. Oil Pump Has a Defect:
Make repair or replacement of oil pump if necessary.
8. Too Much Clearance Between Camshaft and Camshaft Bearings:
Install new camshaft and camshaft bearings if necessary.
9. Too Much Clearance Between Crankshaft and Crankshaft Bearings:
Check the oil filter for correct operation. Install new parts if necessary.
10. Too Much Bearing Clearance for Idler Gear:
Inspect bearings and make replacement as necessary.
11. Orifices For Piston Cooling Not Installed:
Install piston cooling orifices.
Problem 23: Engine Uses Too Much Lubrication Oil
Probable Cause:
1. Too Much Lubrication Oil In Engine:
Remove extra oil. Find where extra oil comes from. Put correct amount of oil in engine. Do
not put too much oil in engine.
2. Oil Leaks:
Find all oil leaks. Make repairs as needed.
3. Oil Temperature Is Too High:
Check operation of oil cooler. Install new parts if necessary. Clean the core of the oil cooler.
4. Too Much Oil In Valve Compartment:
6. Worn Piston Rings And Cylinder Liners:
Install new parts if necessary.
7. Failure of Seal Rings In Turbocharger:
Check inlet manifold for oil and make repair to turbocharger if necessary.
Problem 24: Engine Coolant Is Too Hot
Probable Cause:
1. Restriction To Air Flow Through Radiator or Restriction To Flow Of Coolant Through

The Radiator:
Remove all restrictions to flow.
2. Not Enough Coolant In System:
Add coolant to cooling system.
3. Pressure Cap Has A Defect:
Check operation of pressure cap. Install a new pressure cap if necessary.
4. Combustion Gases in Coolant:
Find out where gases get into the cooling system. Make repairs as needed.
5. Water Temperature Regulator (Thermostat) or Temperature Gauge Has A Defect:
Check water temperature regulator for correct operation. Check temperature gauge
operation. Install new parts as necessary.
6. Water Pump Has A Defect:
Make repairs to the water pump as necessary.
6. Too Much Load On The System:
Make a reduction in the load.
Problem 25: Exhaust Temperature Is Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Air Inlet or Exhaust System Has A Restriction:
Remove restriction.
Make an adjustment to the timing.
Problem 26: Starter Motor Does Not Turn
Probable Cause:
1. Battery Has Low Output:
Check condition of battery. Charge battery or make replacement as necessary.
2. Wires or Switch Has Defect:
Make repairs or replacement as necessary.
3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:
Install a new solenoid.
4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:
Make repair or replacement of starter motor.
Problem 27: Alternator Gives No Charge
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:
Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.
2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:
Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of
parts with defects.
3. Brushes Have A Defect:
Install new brushes.
4. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:
Install a new rotor
Problem 28: Alternator Charge Rate Is Low Or Not Regular
Probable Cause:
1. Loose Drive Belt For Alternator:
Make an adjustment to put the correct tension on the drive belt.
2. Charging Or Ground Return Circuit Or Battery Connections Have A Defect:
Inspect all cables and connections. Clean and tighten all connections. Make replacement of
parts with defects.
3. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:
Install a new alternator regulator.
4. Alternator Brushes Have A Defect:
Install new brushes.
5. Rectifier Diodes Have A Defect:
Make replacement of rectifier diode that has a defect.
6. Rotor (Field Coil) Has A Defect:
Install a new rotor.
Problem 29: Alternator Charge Is Too High
Probable Cause:
1. Alternator Or Alternator Regulator Has Loose Connections:
Tighten all connections to alternator or alternator regulator.
2. Alternator Regulator Has A Defect:
Install a new alternator regulator.
Problem 30: Alternator Has Noise
Probable Cause:
1. Drive Belt For Alternator Is Worn Or Has A Defect:
Install a new drive belt for the alternator.
2. Loose Alternator Drive Pulley:
Check groove in pulley for key that holds pulley in place. If groove is worn, install a new
pulley. Tighten pulley nut according to Specifications.
3. Drive Belt And Drive Pulley For Alternator Are Not In Alignment:
Make an adjustment to put drive belt and drive pulley in correct alignment.
4. Worn Alternator Bearings:
Install new bearings in the alternator.
5. Rotor Shaft Is Bent:
Make a replacement of the rotor shaft.
6. Rectifiers In The Alternator Are Shorted:
Make a replacement of the diode assembly.
Fuel System
Either too much fuel or not enough fuel for combustion can be the cause of a problem in the fuel
system.
Many times work is done on the fuel system when the problem is really with some other part of
the engine. The source of the problem is difficult to find, especially when smoke comes from the
exhaust. Smoke that comes from the exhaust can be caused by a bad fuel injection valve, but it can
also be caused by one or more of the reasons that follow:
a. Not enough air for good combustion.

b. An overload at high altitude.
c. Oil leakage into combustion chamber.
d. Not enough compression.
e. Fuel injection timing retarded.
Fuel System Inspection

To check for low fuel pressure, remove the 1/8" Pipe Plug from the fuel filter base. Connect a
pressure gauge from the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group to the hole where the plug was removed.
Run the engine at high idle and check the fuel pressure reading. The fuel pressure must be at least
105 kPa (15 psi).
A problem with the components that send fuel to the engine can cause low fuel pressure. This can
decrease engine performance.
1. Check the fuel level in the fuel tank. Look at the cap for the fuel tank to make sure the vent is
not filled with dirt.
2. Check the fuel lines for fuel leakage. Be sure the fuel supply line does not have a restriction or a
bad bend.
3. Install a new fuel filter. Clean the primary fuel filter.
4. Remove any air that may be in the fuel system. If there is air in the fuel system, use the priming
pump and open the drain valve on the fuel injection pump housing until fuel without air comes
from the drain line.
NOTICE
When fuel injection lines are loosened or tightened on the fuel injection
nozzles, two wrenches must be used. The nozzle must be held with a
wrench or damage to the nozzle can result.
To remove air from the fuel injection lines, loosen the fuel line nuts on the fuel injection nozzles
1/2 turn. Move the governor lever to the low idle position. Crank engine with the starter motor
until fuel without air comes from the fuel line connections. Tighten the fuel line nuts.
NOTE: The fuel priming pump will not give enough pressure to push fuel through the reverse
flow check valves in the fuel injection pumps.
Checking Engine Cylinders Separately

An easy check can be made to find the cylinder that runs rough (misfires) and causes black smoke
to come out of the exhaust pipe.
Run the engine at the speed that is the roughest. Loosen the fuel line nut at a fuel injection pump.
This will stop the flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line
is found that makes no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after
the test before the next fuel line nut is loosened. Check each cylinder by this method. When a
cylinder is found where the loosened fuel line nut does not make a difference in engine
performance, test the injection pump and fuel injection nozzle for that cylinder.
Temperature of an exhaust manifold port, when an engine runs at low idle speed, can also be an
indication of the condition of a fuel injection nozzle. Low temperature at an exhaust manifold port
is an indication of no fuel to the cylinder. This can possible be an indication of a nozzle with a
defect. Extra high temperature at an exhaust manifold port can be an indication of too much fuel to
the cylinder, also caused by a nozzle with a defect.
The most common defects found with the fuel injection nozzles are:
1. Carbon on tip of the nozzle or in the nozzle orifice.
2. Orifice wear.
3. Steel wire brushing of nozzle tip.
Testing Fuel Injection Nozzles
NOTE: For more information on the 5P5140 Nozzle Testing Group see, Special Instruction, Form
No.SEHS7292.
NOTICE
Be sure to use clean SAE J967 Calibration Fluid when tests are made.
Dirty test fluid will damage components of fuel injection nozzles. The
temperature of the test fluid must be 18 to 24C (65 to 75F) for good
test results.
NOTICE
Do not test nozzles unless you have the correct service tools.
5P4150 Nozzle Testing Group

(1) 8N7005 Nozzle Assembly. (A) 5P7448 Adapter. (B) 5P4146 Gauge, 0 to 6900 kPa (0 to 1000 psi). (C) 6V2170
Tube Assembly. (D) 2P2324 Gauge, 0 to 34 500 kPa (0 to 5000 psi). (E) Gauge protector valve for 2P2324 Gauge. (F)
FT1384 Extension. (G) Gauge protector valve for 5P4146 Gauge. (H) On-off valve. (J) 8S2270 Fuel Collector. (K)
Pump isolator valve.
Extra Valve
(L) Gauge protector valve (must be in open position at all times).
The fuel injection nozzle is not to be disassembled for cleaning or adjustment. Do the tests that
follow to determine if the nozzle performance is acceptable.
Valve Opening Pressure Test.Flush the Nozzle.Tip Leakage Test.Orifice Restriction

Test.Bleedscrew Leakage Test.
Nozzle Preparation for Test

Before fuel injection nozzle (1) can be tested, all loose carbon around the tip of the nozzle must be
removed with the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M).
Removing Carbon Dam

(1) Fuel injection nozzle. (2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal.
Remove carbon dam (2) with needle nose pliers and remove seal (3) from the nozzle.
NOTICE
Do not use a steel brush or a wire wheel to clean the nozzle body or the
nozzle tip. Use of these tools can cause a small reduction of orifice size,
and this will cause a large reduction in engine horsepower. Too much
use of the 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush will also remove the coating that is
on the nozzle for protection.
Clean the groove for carbon seal dam (2) and the body of the nozzle below the groove with the
8S2258 Brass Wire Brush (M). Remove the carbon, but be sure not to use the brush enough to
cause damage to the body of the nozzle.
NOTE: A change in color in the area below the groove is normal and does not effect the body of
the nozzle.
8S2245 Cleaning Kit

(M) 8S2258 Brass Wire Brush. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool. (P) 8S2250 Nozzle Holding Tool.
Fuel Injection Nozzle

(4) Bleed screw and seal.
Remove bleed screw and seal (4) from the nozzle.
NOTE: The bleed screw and seal must be removed for all tests except the Bleed Screw Leakage
Test.
Valve Opening Pressure Test (VOP)

1. Install 6V2170 Tube Assembly (C) to the tester.
2. Install fuel injection nozzle with 5P7448 Adapter (A) on tube assembly (6). Position the bleed
screw hole toward the tester and in line with 6V2170 Tube Assembly (C). This will make the fuel
spray pattern horizontal. Be sure the nozzle tip is down and extends into FT1384 Extension (F)
and 8S2270 Fuel Collector (J).
When fuel injection nozzles are tested, be sure to wear eye protection.
Test fluid comes from the orifices in the nozzle tip with high pressure.
The test fluid can pierce (go through) the skin and cause serious injury
to the operator. Keep the tip of the nozzle pointed away from the
operator and into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension.
Nozzle Ready For Test

(E) Gauge protector valve. (H) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.
NOTICE
Put a shop towel around the upper part of the nozzle to take in any fuel
leakage.
3. Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).
4. Open gauge protector valve (E). Operate the pump to make a slow increase in pressure until the
valve in the fuel injection nozzle just starts to open. Read the maximum gauge pressure at the
instant fluid flows from the tip.
NOTE: It is possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to go down fast if the valve makes a
noise (chatters) when it opens. It is also possible for the pressure reading of the gauge to be almost
constant when the valve in the fuel injection nozzle opens.
NOTE: The valve in the fuel injection nozzle can be good and still not make a noise (chatter), or
not have a very fine vapor (spray) from the orifices in the tip of the fuel injection nozzle during
Step 4.
If the opening pressure is not within specifications, do not use the fuel injection nozzle again.
Flush the Nozzle

1. Close gauge protector valve (E). Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (G).
NOTE: Make sure nozzle extends inside and below the top of FT1384 Extension (F).
2. Operate the pump rapidly for three full strokes.
Tip Leakage Test

1. Remove all fuel from the nozzle tip and body with a clean cloth.
2. Put a clean cloth around the body of the nozzle to take in any leakage from the bleed screw hole
and prevent any fuel leakage to drain down to the tip of the nozzle.
Nozzle Ready For Test

(E) Gauge protector valve. (H) On-off valve. (K) Pump isolator valve.
3. Open gauge protector valve (E). Close on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).
4. Make and hold for 15 seconds a pressure of 1380 to 2000 kPa (200 to 290 psi) less than the
opening pressure measured in the VOP Test and make a note of the number of drops that fall.
5. If the nozzle is not within specifications, DO NOT USE THE NOZZLE.
Orifice Restriction Test

1. Close gauge protector valve (E) and on-off valve (H). Open pump isolator valve (K).
2. Point the tip of the fuel injection nozzle into the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384 Extension.
Be sure the bleed screw hole is positioned toward the tester and is in line with 6V2170 Tube
Assembly (C).
This will make the fuel injection nozzle be 15 from vertical and the spray pattern will be
horizontal.
3. Make a rapid increase in pressure and look at the orifice discharge (shape of discharge) when
fluid begins to flow through the fuel injection nozzle. The discharge must be the same through all
nine orifices. Any change either vertically or horizontally, is an indication of a bad nozzle.
Good Nozzle (Use Again)
Typical Discharge For Orifice With A Restriction (Replacement Necessary)
Typical Discharge With Horizontal Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
Typical Discharge With Vertical Distortion (Replacement Necessary)
Bleed Screws For Fuel Injection Nozzle
Bleed Screw Leakage Test

1. Install bleed screw (4) and the seal (washer) in the fuel injection nozzle. Tighten a type (A)
bleed screw to 0.9 0.1 Nm (8 1 lb in). Tighten a type (B) or (C) bleed screw to 1.8 0.2 Nm
(16 2 lb in). (Use the 6V4980 Torque Screw Driver to tighten the bleed screw to the correct
torque.)
NOTICE
Do not tighten the bleed screw more than the torque shown. The bleed
screw or seal can be damaged.
2. Put the tip of the fuel injection nozzle down inside the 8S2270 Fuel Collector and FT1384
Extension.
3. Close on-off valve (H). Open gauge protector valve (E) and pump isolator valve (K).
4. Pump the tester until fuel injection nozzle is full of fluid and the pressure on the gauge is 12 800
to 14 800 kPa (1870 to 2165 psi).
NOTE: 15 or 20 strokes of the pump can be necessary for the pressure to get to 12 800 to 14 800
kPa (1870 to 2165 psi).
5. If there is leakage, replace the sealing washer. Inspect the washer face of the bleed screw for
damage, replace if needed. Test the nozzle again. If there is still leakage, the fuel injection nozzle
must be replaced.
6. If no fuel leakage is found, the fuel injection nozzle is acceptable. Put a new seal (3) on the
nozzle. Install a new carbon dam (2) in nozzle groove with 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool (N).
Installing Carbon Dam

(2) Carbon dam. (3) Seal. (N) 6V4979 Carbon Seal Tool.
Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel from the fuel injection pumps goes to the fuel injection nozzles through the fuel injection
lines.
When fuel injection lines are disconnected or removed, always put caps or plugs on the ends to
keep dirt out of the lines. When fuel injection lines are installed, be sure all clamps and dampers
are installed in their original location.
The nuts that hold a fuel injection line to an injection nozzle and injection pump must be tightened
to the correct torque. If the nut is loose, fuel will leak from the connection. If the nut is tightened
too tight, the inside diameter of the line will become smaller and cause a restriction to the flow of
fuel in the line. Use a torque wrench and a 5P144 Fuel Line Socket to tighten the fuel injection
line nuts to 40 7 Nm (30 5 lb ft)
Fuel injection lines which are bent, damaged or rubbing can leak and
cause a fire. Replace any lines which have damage or leaks that cannot
be corrected when tightened to the correct torque.
Checking The Plunger And Lifter Of An Injection Pump

NOTE: There are no different size spacers available to adjust the timing dimension of the fuel
injection pumps. If the pump plunger or the lifter is worn, they must be replaced. Because there is
no adjustment to the timing dimension possible, there is NO OFF ENGINE LIFTER SETTING
PROCEDURE.
When there is too much wear on the fuel injection pump plunger, the lifter may also be worn and
there will not be good contact between the two parts. To stop fast wear on the end of a new
plunger, install new lifters in the place of the lifters that have wear.
Wear Between Lifter And Plunger

Fig. A. Illustrates the contact surfaces of a new pump plunger and a new lifter. In Fig. B the pump plunger and lifter
have worn considerably. Fig. C shows how the flat end of a new plunger makes poor contact with a worn lifter,
resulting in rapid wear to both parts.
An injection pump can have a good fuel flow coming from it but not be a good pump because of
slow timing that is caused by wear on the bottom end of the plunger. When making a test on a
pump that has been used for a long time, use a micrometer and measure the length of the plunger.
If the length of the plunger is shorter than the minimum length (worn) dimension given in the
chart, install a new pump.
Look for wear at the top part of the plunger. Check the operation of the plunger according to the
instructions for the Fuel Injection Test Bench.
Removal And Installation Of Fuel Injection Pumps
Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps
NOTICE
Before any parts are removed from the fuel injection pump housing,
thoroughly clean all dirt from the housing. Dirt that gets inside the
pump housing will cause much damage.
NOTE: The fuel rack must be in the center position before the fuel injection pumps can be
removed.
1. Remove timing pin cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.
Fuel Injection Pump Housing

(1) Timing pin cover.
2. Move the governor lever to the Fuel OFF position and install timing pin (2) in the rack
centering hole as shown.
Timing Pin Installed

(2) Timing pin.
3. With the timing pin in position, move the governor lever to the high idle position. The fuel rack
will move until the edge of the groove in the rack makes contact with the timing pin. The fuel rack
is now in the center position. Fasten the governor lever in the HIGH IDLE position.
4. Remove the fuel injection line from the fuel injection pump.
5. Put the 8T5287 Wrench into spline of bushing that holds the fuel injection pump in the housing.
Remove the bushing.
6. Install the 8S2244 Extractor on the threads of the injection pump. Carefully pull the pump
straight up out of the bore.
Be careful when an injection pump is disassembled. Do not damage the surface on the plunger.
The plunger and barrel are made as a set. Do not put the plunger of one pump in the barrel of
another pump. If one part is worn, install a complete new pump assembly. Be careful when the
plunger is put into the bore of the barrel. When injection pumps and spacers are removed from the
fuel injection pump housing, keep the parts together so they can be installed in the same location
in the housing.
Installation of Fuel Injection Pumps
NOTICE
The fuel rack MUST BE IN THE CENTER POSITION before the

correct installation of an injection pump is possible.
1. Put the fuel rack in the center position. Make reference to Removal of Fuel Injection Pumps.
2. Put the 8S2244 Extractor on the threads of the fuel injection pump.
3. Make sure the lifter for the pump to be installed is at the bottom of its travel.
4. Put the groove of barrel (4) in alignment with the middle (fourth) tooth of gear segment (5).
5. Look into the bore for the fuel injection pump and locate both dowels. There is a dowel in the
lifter and a dowel in the opposite side of the bore in the fuel injection pump housing. Put the
groove in the pump barrel in alignment with the large dowel in the pump housing and put the slot
(groove) on the opposite side of the gear teeth on the sector gear in alignment with the small
dowel in the lifter. Install the fuel injection pump straight down into the bore.
Fuel Pump Installation

(3) 8S2244 Extractor. (4) Groove of barrel. (5) Fourth tooth of gear segment.
6. Push down on extractor (3) (hand force only) and install O-ring and bushing that holds the
injection pump in the pump housing. If the pump is in the correct position, the bushing will turn
into the threads of the fuel injection housing with the fingers until it is even with the top of the
housing. When the bushing is installed correctly, tighten the bushing to 165 14 Nm (120 10 lb
ft).
NOTICE
The bushing must be tightened to the correct torque. Damage to the

housing will be the result if the bushing is too tight. If the bushing is
not tight enough, the pump will have leakage.
7. Install the fuel injection line to the pump and tighten to 40 7 Nm (30 5 lb ft).
8. Remove timing pin (2) and install timing pin cover (1).
NOTICE
If one or more of the fuel injection pumps have been installed wrong, it
is possible for the engine to run out of control when started. When any
of the fuel injection pumps have been removed and installed, take the
precautions (steps) that follow to stop the engine if it starts to
overspeed (run out of control).
a. Remove the air cleaner pipe from the turbocharger and leave the air inlet for the turbocharger
open.
b. Set the governor at low idle.
Stopping The Engine (Typical Example)
Be careful when plate is put against air inlet opening. Due to excessive
suction, the plate can be pulled quickly against air inlet opening. To
avoid crushed fingers, do not put fingers between plate and air inlet
opening.
c. Start the engine, and if engine starts to overspeed (run out of control) put a steel plate over the
air inlet to stop the engine.
Locating Top Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston
No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke is the starting point for all timing
procedures.
NOTE: The engine is seen from the flywheel end when direction of crankshaft rotation is given.
1. Remove starter motor.
2. Install the tools as shown.
Engine Turning Tools Installed

(1) 5P7306 Housing. (2) 5P7305 Gear. (3) Timing bolt.
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise approximately 30 degrees. The reason for this step is to be sure
the free play is removed from the timing gears when the engine is put on top center.
5. Remove the plug from the timing hole in the flywheel housing. Rotate the crankshaft until a
3/8"-16 NC bolt, 50.8 mm (2.00 in.) long, can be turned into the flywheel through the timing hole
in the flywheel housing. No. 1 piston is now on top center.
Valve Cover Removed

(4) Rocker arms.
NOTE: If the crankshaft is turned beyond top center do Steps 4 and 5 again.
6. The intake and exhaust valves for No. 1 cylinder will be closed if No. 1 piston is on the
compression stroke. You can move the rocker arms up and down with your hand.
7. If No. 1 piston is not on the compression stroke, remove the timing bolt and rotate the
crankshaft counterclockwise 360. Install the timing bolt. The No. 1 piston is now at top center on
the compression stroke.
Checking Engine Timing With 8T5300 Timing Indicator

Group And 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group
8T5300 Timing Indicator Group

(1) 8T5250 Engine Timing Indicator. (2) 5P7366 Cable Assembly. (3) 6V2197 Magnetic Transducer. (4) 5P7362
Cable. (5) 6V2199 and 6V3093 Transducer Adapters. (6) 8K4644 Fuse.
The 8T5300 Timing Indicator Group must be used with the 8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter
Group.
8T5301 Diesel Timing Adapter Group

(7) 5P7437 Adapter. (8) 6V2198 Cable. (9) 5P7436 Adapter. (10) 6V7910 Transducer. (11) 5P7435 Adapter. (12)
6V3016 Washer.
A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected. To avoid personal

injury or fire from fuel spray, the engine must be stopped before the
fuel line is disconnected.
When checking the dynamic timing on an engine without a mechanical advance, Caterpillar
recommends that the serviceman calculate and graph the dynamic timing on a worksheet like
Form No. SEHS8140. These worksheets are available in pads of 50 sheets, order one Form No.
SEHS8140. See Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580, for information required to calculate
the timing curve.
After the timing values are calculated and plotted, the dynamic timing should be checked with the
8T5300 Engine Timing Indicator Group. To do this, the serviceman must operate the engine from
1000 rpm (base rpm) to high idle and from high idle to 1000 rpm (base rpm). Unstable readings
are often obtained below 1000 rpm. He must record the dynamic timing at each 100 rpm and at the
specified speeds during both acceleration and deceleration. Then he should plot the results on the
worksheet.
Inspection of the plotted value will show if the timing is within specifications. See Special
Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for information required to calculate the timing.
1. See the Engine Information Plate for the performance specification number and make reference
to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct timing specifications to use.
2. Make reference to Operation Instructions inside the lid of the 8T5300 Timing Indicator (1) or
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8580 for complete instructions and calibration.
The engine must be stopped before the timing indicator group is

installed. A high pressure fuel line must be disconnected and a probe
must be installed against the flywheel.
Transducer In Position
(10) Injection transducer. (13) Fuel injection line for No. 1 cylinder.
3. Loosen all fuel line clamps that hold No. 1 fuel injection line and disconnect fuel injection line
(13) for No. 1 cylinder at the fuel injection pump. Slide the nut up and out of the way. Put 5P7436
Adapter (9) in its place and turn adapter (9) onto the fuel pump bonnet until the top of the bonnet
threads are approximately even with the bottom of the "window" in adapter (9).
4. Put the 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11) on the injection transducer (10) and put the end of the 5P7435
Tee Adapter (11) in the "window" of the 5P7436 Adapter (9).
5. Put fuel injection line (13) on top of 5P7435 Tee Adapter (11). Install 5P7437 Adapter (7) and
tighten to a torque of not more than 40 Nm (30 lb ft).
6. Remove the plug from the flywheel housing. Install transducer adapter (5) into the hole the plug
was removed from. Tighten only a small amount.
Transducer In Position
(3) TDC magnetic transducer. (5) Transducer adapter.
7. Push the TDC magnetic transducer (3) into the transducer adapter (5) until it makes contact
with the flywheel. Pull it back out 1.6 mm (.06 in.) and lightly tighten the knurled locknut.
8. Connect the cables from the transducer to Engine Timing Indicator (1). Calibrate and make
adjustments. For calibration procedure, make reference to Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8580.
9. Start the engine and let it reach operating temperature. Then run the engine at approximately
one-half throttle for eight to ten minutes before measuring timing.
10. Run the engine at the speeds required, and record the timing indicator readings.
The Timing Chart gives the acceptable dynamic (engine in motion) timing range as read on the
Timing Indicator Group. The Timing Chart is for engines with 14 1 and 21 1 static (engine
stopped) timing.
If the engine timing is not correct, make reference to Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin
Method for static adjustment of the fuel injection pump drive.
Checking Engine Timing By Timing Pin Method
1. Put No. 1 piston at top center on the compression stroke. Make reference to Locating Top
Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston. Remove the timing bolt and rotate the crankshaft
clockwise 30.
Timing Pin Cover

(1) Timing pin cover. (2) Cover for timing gear. (3) Nut.
2. Remove timing pin cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.

(4) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
3. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (4) in the fuel injection pump housing as shown.
Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until timing pin (4) goes into the slot in the fuel
pump camshaft.
NOTICE
Too much pressure on the timing pin can damage the fuel injection
pump camshaft or the timing pin.
4. Put the timing bolt in the timing hole in the flywheel housing. Slowly move the crankshaft
counterclockwise (as seen from the flywheel end of the engine) until the fuel pump camshaft is
tight against timing pin (4). This removes gear clearance from the drive train. If the bolt can be
installed in the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel injection pump is correct.
5. If the timing bolt does not go into the timing hole in the flywheel, the timing of the fuel
injection pump is not correct. Do the steps that follow to adjust the fuel injection pump timing.
6. Remove nuts (3) and cover (2) from the timing gear housing.
Timing Gear For Fuel Injection Pump

(5) Bolt.
7. Loosen bolt (5) that holds the timing gear to the fuel pump camshaft. Turn bolt (5) out
(counterclockwise) three turns.
8. Install 8S2264 Puller Group and loosen the timing gear from the fuel pump camshaft.
Puller Tools Installed

(6) 8S2264 Puller Group. (7) 8B7560 Step Plate. (8) 1B3680 Bolt 3/8"-24 NF, 95.3 mm (3.75 in.) long. (9) 4B5271
Washer.
9. Rotate the flywheel clockwise 60 before top center No. 1 piston.
10. Tighten retaining bolt (5) finger tight. Be sure timing pin (4) is in the groove in the fuel pump
camshaft.
11. Slowly rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the timing bolt can be installed in the
flywheel.
12. Install 6V6175 Adapter on the timing gear. Use two 3/8"-24 NF bolts, 25.4 mm (1.0 in.) long
to fasten the adapter to the puller holes in the timing gear.
Adapter Installed On Timing Gear

(10) 6V6175 Adapter.
13. Hold a torque of 60 to 70 Nm (45 to 50 lb ft) on adapter (10) in a clockwise direction, and
tighten bolt (5) that holds the timing gear to 270 30 Nm (200 20 lb ft).
14. Remove the timing bolt from the flywheel and timing pin (4) from the fuel pump camshaft.
15. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise two revolutions. If the timing bolt can be installed in
the flywheel and the timing pin can be installed in the fuel pump camshaft, the timing is correct.
16. If either the timing pin or the timing bolt cannot be installed, do Steps 7 through 16 again.
Tightening Timing Gear Bolt
Fuel Setting Procedure
The static fuel setting can be done with the fuel injection pump and governor on or off the engine.
For more information on the fuel setting procedure, see Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8024.
Fuel Injection Pump And Governor

(1) Cover.
1. Remove cover (1) from the side of the fuel injection pump housing.
2. Install 5P4814 Collet (2) on 6V2014 Bracket Assembly (3).
3. Install the bracket assembly on the fuel pump housing. Lever (5) on the bracket assembly must
be in slot (4) on the fuel rack. Push up on the bracket assembly while the bolts are tightened.
Bracket Assembly Installed

(2) 5P4814 Collet. (3) Bracket assembly.
Cover Removed
(4) Slot on fuel rack.
NOTE: After the bracket assembly is tightened to the pump housing, shaft (6) must have axial (in
and out) movement, If there is no axial movement of shaft (6), check to be sure lever (5) is in the
slot on the fuel rack and that the bracket assembly is installed correctly. Check to make sure that
lever (5) is not bent. Lever (5) must be perpendicular (at right angle) to the mounting face of the
bracket assembly.
Bracket Assembly
(5) Lever. (6) Shaft.
Dial Indicator Installed

(7) 6V3075 Dial Indicator.
4. Put 9S229 Contact Point, 9.7 mm (.38 in.) long on 6V3075 Dial Indicator (7) and install dial
indicator in collet (2).
Governor
(8) Cover.
5. Remove cover (8) from the rear of the governor housing.
Rear Of Governor Housing

(9) Plug.
6. Remove plug (9) from the rear of the governor housing.
7. Move the governor control lever to the FUEL OFF position (rotate governor shaft clockwise).

(10) 6V4186 Timing Pin.
8. Install 6V4186 Timing Pin (10) in the hole in the bracket assembly. Push timing pin in until
contact is made with the fuel rack. Hold the timing pin gently against the fuel rack for Steps 9 and
10. If too much force is used to hold the timing pin, the fuel rack can stick and cause an incorrect
zero reading.
9. Hold the governor control lever in the HIGH IDLE position (rotate governor shaft
counterclockwise).
6V7942 Hook In Use

(11) 6V7942 Hook.
Cutaway View Of Governor

(11) 6V7942 Hook. (12) Collar.
10. Insert 6V7942 Hook (11) into the hole that plug (9) was removed from. Engage the end of
hook (11) with collar (12) and pull toward the rear of the governor housing until the collar stops
moving. This will make sure the fuel rack stops against the timing pin. This is the rack zero
position.
11. With the hook still pulled toward the rear of the governor, loosen collet (2) and adjust the
revolution counter on the dial indicator to zero. Tighten the collet just enough to hold the indicator
in this position. Move the dial of the indicator to get alignment of the pointer and zero.
12. Remove timing pin (10) and remove hook (9), then release the governor control lever.
6V7941 Compressor Assembly

(13) Rod. (14) Knob.
13. Turn rod (13) out of the 6V7941 Compressor Assembly (15) until knob (14) is 25.4 mm (1.0
in.) from the compressor body.
Compressor Assembly Installed

(15) 6V7941 Compressor Assembly.
14. Install 6V7491 Compressor Assembly (15) in the hole plug (9) was removed.
NOTE: The 6V7941 Compressor Assembly is used to compress the over fueling spring. The over
fueling spring must be compressed to get an accurate fuel setting measurement.
NOTE: The procedure to check the fuel setting is different than the procedure to adjust the fuel
setting. Follow Steps 15 through 18 to check the fuel setting. Follow Steps 19 through 22 to
adjust the fuel setting.
15. Fasten the clip end of 8T500 Circuit Tester (16) to rack contact screw (17) and put the other
end to a good electrical ground.
Checking Static Fuel Setting

(16) 8T500 Circuit Tester. (17) Rack contact screw. (18) Adjustment screw cover.
16. Hold the governor control lever in the FUEL ON position (rotate lever fully
counterclockwise).
17. Turn rod (13) of compressor assembly (15) in (clockwise) until the light in circuit tester (16)
goes off and the dial indicator hands move an additional 2 mm in the negative (-) direction after
the light goes out.
NOTICE
DO NOT turn the rod any further in if the rod begins to tighten.
Damage to the governor can occur if the rod is turned in further.
NOTE: The static fuel setting (Step 19) and the static full torque setting (Step 20) must be with in
.25 mm (.001 in) of the setting on the Engine Information Plate. If the setting is within .25 mm
(.001 in) an adjustment is not necessary. If the Engine Information Plate is gone or the Full Torque
Setting is not on the Engine Information Plate, see the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche
for the correct settings.
18. If the fuel setting is not correct, remove adjustment screw cover (18) from the rear of the
governor housing.
19. Slowly turn rod (13) out (counterclockwise) until the circuit tester light just comes on. This is
the static fuel setting. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct static
fuel setting.
NOTE: When the rod is turned out, there will be a small initial movement of the dial indicator
hands, then, they will stop moving while the rod is turned out for approximately another 1 1/2
turns. Now the indicator hands will begin to move again and will follow the turning of the rod
until the setting is reached. It is important that the rod be turned slowly so that the rack can follow
the governor components.
NOTE: If rod (13) is turned out fast, a wrong measurement can be read on the dial indicator as the
light comes on. Repeat steps 17 and 19 to make sure the correct measurement is taken.
20. Continue to turn the rod out until the indicator hand stops moving. Then turn the rod out two
additional turns. Push in on the rack stop collar to make sure it is in the correct position. The new
reading on the indicator is the full torque static setting.
This means the torque rise setting is 1.00 mm. An addition of the fuel setting and the torque rise
setting is not necessary.
21. See the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche for the correct full torque setting. On
later engines the full torque static setting is on the Engine Information Plate.
Adjustment Screw Cover Removed

(19) Torque rise adjustment screw. (20) Fuel setting screw.
22. Determine how much the setting will have to be changed (see example). Use the chart that
follows to determine how far the adjusting screw must be turned.
Since "desired setting" is higher than "actual reading," turn adjusting screw out (counterclockwise)
approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
Since "desired setting" is lower than "actual reading," turn the adjusting screw in (clockwise)
approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
Negative numbers work differently than positive numbers. If one number (-1.25) has a larger
digital value than another one (-1.05), the first number (-1.25) is actually less than the other one.
Therefore, in this example the "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the
adjusting screw in (clockwise) approximately 1/4 turn. Recheck the new setting and readjust if
necessary.
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out
(counterclockwise) approximately 1 1/8 turns. Recheck the new setting and readjust if necessary.
The "desired setting" is lower than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw in approximately
2 7/8 turns.
The "desired setting" is higher than the "actual reading." Turn the adjusting screw out
approximately 2 7/8 turns.
Adjusting Fuel Setting

(21) 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group.
23. If both settings are to be increased, turn torque rise adjustment screw (19) out
(counterclockwise) the same number of turns as fuel setting adjustment screw (20) is going to be
changed. If the static fuel setting is going to be decreased, it is not necessary to change the full
torque setting at this time.
24. Use 6V2106 Rack Adjustment Tool Group (21) to loosen the locknut for adjustment screw and
to turn the adjustment screw.
25. Adjust the fuel setting screw the number of turns determined in Step 20. Always recheck the
setting after each adjustment and adjust again if needed.
NOTE: There is a zero tolerance for the fuel setting and full torque setting when an adjustment is
made.
26. After the static fuel setting is correct, adjust the torque rise adjustment screw the number of
turns determined in Step 20. Always recheck the setting after adjustment and adjust again if
needed.
Engine Speed Measurement
6V3121 Multitach Group

(1) Carrying case. (2) Power cable. (3) Tachometer generator. (4) Tachometer drive group. (5) Multitach.
The 6V3121 Multitach Group can measure engine speed from a tachometer drive on the engine. It
also has the ability to measure engine speed from visual engine parts in rotation.
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7807 is with the 6V3121 Multitach Group and gives
instructions for the test procedure.
The 6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group is another diagnostic tool accessory that can be
used with the 6V2100 Multitach. It can be used on all Caterpillar Diesel Engines equipped with 6
mm (.25 in.) single wall fuel injection lines. With this pickup group, engine speed can be
measured quickly, automatically, and with an accuracy of 1 rpm.
6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group

(6) 6V6114 Pickup. (7) 6V6113 Amplifier.
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8029 is with the group and gives instructions for use of the
6V4950 Injection Line Speed Pickup Group.
Governor Adjustments
NOTICE
A mechanic with training in governor adjustments is the only one to

make the adjustment to the set point rpm.
Engine rpm must be checked with an accurate tachometer. Make reference to Measuring Engine
Speed.
Low Idle Adjustment

NOTE: The correct LOW IDLE rpm is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
To help prevent an accident caused by parts in rotation, work carefully

around an engine that has been started.
Start the engine and run until the temperature of normal operation is reached. Check low idle rpm
with noload on the engine. If an adjustment is necessary, use the procedure that follows:
Low Idle Adjustment

(1) Cover. (2) Low idle screw.
1. To adjust the LOW IDLE rpm, start the engine and run with the governor in the low idle
position. Loosen the locknut for low idle screw (2). Turn the low idle screw to get the correct low
idle rpm. Increase engine speed and return to low idle and check low idle speed again. Tighten the
locknut.
Checking Set Point (Balance Point)
The engine set point is an adjusted specification and is important to the correct operation of the
engine. High idle rpm is NOT an adjusted specification. Set point (formerly balance point) is full
load rpm plus an additional 20 rpm. Set point is the rpm at which the fuel setting adjustment screw
and stop or first torque spring just start to make contact. At this rpm, the fuel setting adjustment
screw and stop or first torque spring still have movement between them. When additional load is
put on the engine, the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque spring will become
stable against each other. Set point is controlled by the fuel setting and the high idle adjustment
screw.
There is a new and more accurate method for checking the "set point", formerly called the balance
point, of the engine. If the tools for the new method are not available, there is an alternate method
for checking the "set point".
The 6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group with the 6V2100 Multitach can be used to check
the set point. Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7931 Gives instructions for installation and use
of this tool group.
6V4060 Engine Set Point Indicator Group
Alternate Method
If the set point is correct and the high idle speed is within specifications, the fuel system operation
of the engine is correct. The set point for the engine is:
A. At 20 rpm greater than full load speed.

B. The rpm where the fuel setting adjustment screw and stop or first torque spring just make
contact.
Use the procedure that follows to check the set point. Make reference to Techniques For Loading
Engines in Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7050.
Terminal Location
(3) Brass terminal screw.
1. Connect a tachometer which has good accuracy to the tachometer drive.
2. Connect the clip end of the 8T500 Circuit Tester to the brass terminal screw (3) on the governor
housing. Connect the other end of the tester to a place on the fuel system which is a good ground
connection.
Work carefully around an engine that is running. Engine parts that are
hot, or parts that are moving, can cause personal injury.
3. Start the engine.
4. With the engine at normal conditions for operation, run the engine at high idle.
5. Make a record of the speed of the engine at high idle.
6. Add load on the engine slowly until the circuit tester light just comes on (minimum light
output). This is the set point.
7. Make a record of the speed (rpm) at the set point.
8. Repeat Step 6 several times to make sure that the reading is correct.
9. Stop the engine. Make a comparison of the records from Steps 5 and 7 with the information
from the Engine Information Plate. If the Engine Information Plate is not available, see the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche.
The tolerance for the set point is 10 rpm. The tolerance for the high idle rpm is 30 rpm. If the
readings from Steps 5 and 7 are within the tolerance, no adjustment is needed.
NOTE: It is possible in some applications that the high idle rpm will be less than the lower limit.
This can be caused by high parasitic loads such as hydraulic pumps, compressors, etc.
Adjusting Set Point (Balance Point)
1. If the set point and the high idle rpm are within tolerance, no adjustment is to be made.
2. If the set point rpm is not correct, remove cover (1) and loosen locknut. Turn adjustment screw
(4) to adjust the set point to the midpoint of the tolerance.
3. When the set point is correct, check the high idle rpm. The high idle rpm must not be more than
the high limit of the tolerance.
Set Point Adjustment

(4) Adjustment screw.
If the high idle rpm is more than the high limit of the tolerance, check the governor spring and
flyweights. If the high idle rpm is less than the low limit of the tolerance, check for excess
parasitic loads and then the governor spring and flyweights.
Dashpot Screw Adjustment

The dashpot adjustment screw does not normally need adjustment from the factory setting. If the
engine is slow to change rpm with a change in load, it is possible that the dashpot adjustment
screw is not adjusted correctly.
1. Turn dashpot adjustment screw (1) in (clockwise) until it stops.
2. Turn dashpot adjustment screw out (counterclockwise) 1/2 1/4 turn.
Dashpot Screw Adjustment

(1) Dashpot adjustment screw.
Air Inlet And Exhaust System

Restriction Of Air Inlet And Exhaust
There will be a reduction of horsepower and efficiency of the engine if there is a restriction in the
air inlet or exhaust system.
Air flow through the air cleaner must not have a restriction of more than 762 mm (30 in.) of water
difference in pressure.
Back pressure from the exhaust (pressure difference measurement between exhaust outlet elbow
and atmosphere) must not be more than 686 mm (27 H2O) on engines with a turbocharger.
Measurement Of Pressure In Inlet Manifold

By checking the pressure in the inlet manifold the efficiency of an engine can be checked by
making a comparison with the information given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche. This test is used when there is a decrease of horsepower from the engine, yet there is no
real sign of a problem with the engine.
The correct pressure for the inlet manifold is given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche. Development of this information is done with these conditions: 746.7 mm (29.4 in.) of
mercury barometric pressure, 29C (85F) outside air temperature and 35 API rated fuel. Any
change from these conditions can change the pressure in the inlet manifold. Outside air that has
higher temperature and lower barometric pressure than given above will cause a lower horsepower
and inlet manifold pressure measurement, than given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information
Fiche. Outside air that has a lower temperature and higher barometric pressure will cause a higher
horsepower and inlet manifold pressure measurement.
A difference in fuel rating will also change horsepower and the pressure in the inlet manifold. If
the fuel is rated above 35 API, pressure in the inlet manifold can be less than given in the Fuel
Setting And Related Information Fiche. If the fuel is rated below 35 API, the pressure in the inlet
manifold can be more than given in the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.
NOTE: Be sure that the air inlet and exhaust do not have a restriction when making a check of
pressure in the inlet manifold.
1U5470 Engine Pressure Group
Use the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group to check the pressure in the inlet manifold.
This tool group has a gauge to read pressure in the inlet manifold. Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8524 is with the tool group and gives information on the use of the group.
Location For Pressure Test

(A) Remove plug and install a tee for testing.
Location For Pressure Test

(A) Remove plug and install a tee for testing.
Checking Aftercooler Operation

Use the 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group to check the operation of the aftercooler.
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8446 gives the procedures for using the 8T470 Thermistor
Thermometer Group.
8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group
Exhaust Temperature
6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group
Use the 6V5000 Infrared Thermometer Group to check exhaust temperature. Special Instruction,
Form No. SEHS8149 is with the tool group and gives instructions for the test procedure.
Turbocharger
Every 7200 hours or if any unusual sound or vibration in the turbocharger is noticed, a quick
check of bearing condition can be made without disassembling the turbocharger. This can be done
by removing the piping from the turbocharger and inspecting the compressor impeller, turbine
wheel and compressor cover. Rotate the compressor and turbine wheel assembly by hand and
observe by feeling excess end play and radial clearance. The rotating assembly should rotate freely
with no rubbing or binding. If there is any indication of the impeller rubbing the compressor cover
or the turbine wheel rubbing the turbine housing, recondition the turbocharger or replace with a
new or rebuilt one.
End clearance is best checked with a dial indicator. Attach a dial indicator with the indicator point
on the end of the shaft. Move the shaft from end to end making note of the total indicator reading.
Refer to the Specifications for the correct end play dimensions. If end play is more than the
maximum end play, rebuild or replace the turbocharger. End play less than the minimum end play
could indicate carbon buildup on the turbine wheel and should be disassembled for cleaning and
inspection.
Checking Turbocharger Rotating Assembly End Play (Typical Example)
A more reliable check of bearing condition can be made only when the turbocharger is
disassembled and the bearings, shaft journal and housing bore diameters can actually be measured.
Crankcase (Crankshaft Compartment) Pressure

Pistons or piston rings that have damage can be the cause of too much pressure in the crankcase.
This condition will cause the engine to run rough. There will also be more than the normal amount
of fumes coming from the crankcase breather. This crankcase pressure can also cause the element
for the crankcase breather to have a restriction in a very short time. It can also be the cause of oil
leakage at gaskets and seals that would not normally have leakage.
Normal crankcase pressure with a clean crankcase breather is 50.8 mm (2 in.) of water or less.
Compression
An engine that runs rough can have a leak at the valves, or have valves that need adjustment. Use
the test that follows for a fast and easy method to find a cylinder that has low compression, or does
not have good fuel combustion. Find the speed that the engine runs the roughest, and keep the
engine at this rpm until the test is finished. Loosen a fuel line nut at fuel injection pump to stop the
flow of fuel to that cylinder. Do this for each cylinder until a loosened fuel line is found that
makes no difference in engine performance. Be sure to tighten each fuel line nut after the test
before the next fuel line nut is loosened. This test can also be an indication that the fuel injection is
wrong, so the cylinder will have to be checked thoroughly.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head has valves, valve seat inserts, and valve guides that can be removed when they
are worn or have damage. Replacement of these components can be made with the tools that
follow.
Valves
Valve removal and installation is easier with use of the 5P1330 Valve Spring Compressor
Assembly and 5S1322 Valve Keeper Inserter.
Valve Seat Inserts

Tools needed to remove valve seat inserts are in the 6V4805 Valve Insert Puller Group. Special
Instruction, Form No. SMHS7935 gives an explanation for this procedure. The insert can be more
easily installed by lowering the temperature of the insert before installing it in the head.
Valve Guides
Tools needed to install valve guides are: 7S8858 Driver Bushing and 7S8859 Driver. The
counterbore in the driver bushing installs the guide to the correct height. Use a 1P7450 Honing
Arrangement to make a finished bore in the valve guide after installing the guide in the head.
Special Instruction, Form No. SMHS7526 gives an explanation of this procedure. Grind the valves
after installing new valve guides.
Checking Valve Guide Bore

Use the 5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group to check the bore of the valve guides. Special
Instruction, Form No. GMG02562 gives complete and detailed instructions for use of the 5P3536
Valve Guide Gauge Group.
5P3536 Valve Guide Gauge Group
Valve Clearance
NOTE: Valve clearance is measured between the rocker arm and the valves.
NOTE: When the valve lash (clearance) is checked, adjustment is NOT NECESSARY if the
measurement is in the range given in the chart for Valve Clearance Check: Engine Stopped. If the
measurement is outside this range, adjustment is necessary. See the chart for Valve Clearance
Setting: Engine Stopped, and make the setting to the nominal (desired) specifications in this chart.
Valve Clearance
Cylinder And Valve Identification
1. Put No. 1 piston at top center (TC) on the compression stroke. Make reference to Finding Top
Center Compression Position For No. 1 Piston.
2. Make an adjustment to valve clearance on the intake valves for cylinders 1, 2 and 4. Make an
adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 1, 3, and 5.
3. Turn the flywheel 360 in the direction of engine rotation. This will put No. 6 piston at top
center (TC) on the compression stroke.
4. Make an adjustment to the valve clearance on the intake valve for cylinder 3, 5, and 6. Make an
adjustment to the valve clearance on the exhaust valves for cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
5. After valve adjustment is correct, tighten the nuts for the valve adjustment screws to 28 4
Nm (22 3 lb ft).
Procedure For Measuring Camshaft Lobes

To find lobe lift, use the procedure that follows:
A. Measure camshaft lobe height (B) of one exhaust and one intake lobe.
B. Measure base circle (C) of one exhaust and one intake lobe.
C. Subtract base circle (STEP B) from lobe height (STEP A). The difference is actual lobe lift (A).
D. Specified camshaft lobe lift (A) is 8.382 mm (.3300 in.).
Maximum permissible difference between actual lobe lift (STEP C) and specified lobe lift (STEP
D) is 0.25 mm (.010 in.).
Camshaft Lobe
(A) Lobe lift. (B) Lobe height. (C) Base circle.
Lubrication System
One of the problems in the list that follows will generally be an indication of a problem in the
lubrication system for the engine.
Too Much Oil ConsumptionOil Pressure Is LowOil Pressure Is HighToo Much Bearing
WearIncreased Oil TemperatureToo Much Oil Consumption
Too Much Oil Consumption

Oil Leakage on Outside of Engine
Check for leakage at the seals at each end of the crankshaft. Look for leakage at the oil pan gasket
and all lubrication system connections. Check to see if oil comes out of the crankcase breather.
This can be caused by combustion gas leakage around the pistons. A dirty crankcase breather will
cause high pressure in the crankcase, and this will cause gasket and seal leakage.
Oil Leakage Into Combustion Area Of Cylinders

Oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders can be the cause of blue smoke. There are
four possible ways for oil leakage into the combustion area of the cylinders:
1. Oil leakage between worn valve guides and valve stems.

2. Worn or damaged piston rings, or dirty oil return holes.
3. Compression ring and/or intermediate ring not installed correctly.
4. Oil leakage past the seal rings in the impeller end of the turbocharger shaft.
Too much oil consumption can also be the result if oil with the wrong viscosity is used. Oil with a
thin viscosity can be caused by fuel leakage into the crankcase, or by increased engine
temperature.
Measuring Engine Oil Pressure
An oil pressure gauge that has a defect can give an indication of low oil pressure.
The 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group can be used to check engine oil pressure.
1U5470 Engine Pressure Group
This tool group has a gauge to read oil pressure in the engine. Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8524 is with the tool group and gives instructions for the test procedure.
1. Be sure that the engine is filled to the correct level with either SAE 10 or SAE 30 oil. If any
other viscosity of oil is used, the information in the engine oil pressure chart does not apply.
2. Remove oil pressure switch (1) and connect the 1U5470 Engine Pressure Group to the main oil
manifold at the location from which the oil pressure switch was removed.
Oil Pressure Switch Location

(1) Oil pressure switch.
Work carefully around an engine that is running. Engine parts that are
hot, or parts that are moving, can cause personal injury.
3. Run the engine to get the engine oil temperature at 99C (210F).
NOTE: A 3C (5F) increase in temperature gives approximately 7 kPa (1 psi) decrease in engine
oil pressure.
NOTE: Make sure engine oil temperature does not go above 115 (239F).
4. Keep the engine oil temperature constant. With the engine at the rpm from the chart, read the
pressure gauge. Make a comparison between the pressure reading on the test gauge and the
minimum permissible pressure from the Engine Oil Pressure Chart. If the pressure reading on the
test gauge is below the minimum permissible pressure, find the cause and correct it. Operation of
the engine with low oil pressure can be the cause of engine failure or of a reduction in engine life.
NOTE: A record of engine oil pressure, kept at regular intervals, can be used as an indication of
possible engine problems or damage. If there is a sudden increase or decrease of 70 kPa (10 psi) in
oil pressure, the engine should be inspected and the problem corrected.
Oil Pressure Is Low
Crankcase Oil Level

Check the level of the oil in the crankcase. Add oil if needed. It is possible for the oil level to be
too far below the oil pump supply tube. This will cause the oil pump to not have the ability to
supply enough lubrication to the engine components.
Oil Pump Does Not Work Correctly

The inlet screen of the supply tube for the oil pump can have a restriction. This will cause
cavitation (low pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by mechanical forces) and a loss of oil
pressure. Air leakage in the supply side of the oil pump will also cause cavitation and loss of oil
pressure. If the bypass valve for the oil pump is held in the open (unseated) position, the
lubrication system cannot get to a maximum pressure. Oil pump gears that have too much wear
will cause a reduction in oil pressure.
Oil Filter Bypass Valve

If the bypass valve for the oil filter is held in the open position (unseated) because the oil filter has
a restriction, a reduction in oil pressure can result. To correct this problem, remove and clean the
bypass valve and bypass valve bore. Install a new Caterpillar oil filter to be sure that no more
debris makes the bypass valve stay open.
Too Much Clearance at Engine Bearings or Open Lubrication System (Broken

or Disconnected Oil Line or Passage)
Components that are worn and have too much bearing clearance can cause oil pressure to be low.
Low oil pressure can also be caused by an oil line or oil passage that is open, broken or
disconnected.
Piston Cooling Tubes (Jets)

When engine is operated, cooling jets direct oil toward the bottom of the piston to lower piston
and ring temperatures. If there is a failure of one of the jets, or it is bent in the wrong direction,
seizure of the piston will be caused in a very short time.
Use the 5P8709 Piston Tool Group to check and adjust the alignment of piston cooling jets.
Oil Pressure Is High

Oil pressure will be high if the bypass valve for the oil pump cannot move from the closed
position.
Too Much Bearing Wear

When some components of the engine show bearing wear in a short time, the cause can be a
restriction in an oil passage. A broken oil passage can also be the cause.
If the gauge for oil pressure shows enough oil pressure, but a component is worn because it cannot
get enough lubrication, look at the passage for oil supply to the component. A restriction in a
supply passage will not let enough lubrication get to a component, and this will cause early wear.
Increased Oil Temperature

Look for a restriction in the oil passages of the oil cooler. If the oil cooler has a restriction, the oil
temperature will be higher than normal when the engine is operated. The oil pressure of the engine
will not get low just because the oil cooler has a restriction.
Also the oil cooler bypass valve to see if it is held in the open position (unseated). This condition
will let the oil through the valve instead of the oil cooler, and oil temperature will increase.
Cooling System
This engine has a pressure type cooling system. A pressure type cooling system gives two
advantages. The first advantage is that the cooling system can have safe operation at a temperature
that is higher than normal boiling (steam) point of water. The second advantage is that this type
system prevents cavitation (low pressure bubbles suddenly made in liquids by mechanical forces)
in the water pump. With this type system, it is more difficult for an air or steam pocket to be made
in the cooling system.
The cause for increased engine temperature is generally because regular inspections of the cooling
system were not made. Make a visual inspection of the cooling system before a test is made with
test equipment.
Visual Inspection Of The Cooling System

1. Check coolant level in the cooling system.
2. Look for leaks in the system.
NOTE: Water pump seals. A small amount of coolant leakage across the surface of the "face-
type" seals is normal, and required, to provide lubrication for this type of seal. A hole is provided
in the water pump housing to allow this coolant/seal lubricant to drain from the pump housing.
Intermittent leakage of small amount of coolant from this hole is not an indication of water pump
seal failure. Replace the water pump seals only if a large amount of leakage, or a constant flow of
coolant is observed draining from the water pump housing.
3. Look for bent radiator fins. Be sure that air flow through the radiator does not have a restriction.
4. Inspect the drive belts for the fan.
5. Check for damage to the fan blades.
6. Look for air or combustion gas in the cooling system.
7. Inspect the filler cap and the surface that seals the cap. This surface must be clean.
Testing The Cooling System

Remember that temperature and pressure work together. When a diagnosis is made of a cooling
system problem, temperature and pressure must both be checked. Cooling system pressure will
have an effect on cooling system temperatures. For an example, look at the chart to see the effect
of pressure and height above sea level on the boiling (steam) point of water.
Boiling Point Of Water
Test Tools for Cooling System
The 8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group is used in the diagnosis of overheating (engine hotter
than normal) or overcooling (engine cooler than normal) problems. This group can be used to
check temperatures in several different parts of the cooling system. The testing procedure is in
Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8446.
8T470 Thermistor Thermometer Group
The 8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group is used to check the air flow through the radiator
core. The operating instructions are included with the group.
8T2700 Blowby/Air Flow Indicator Group
The 6V3121 Multitach Group is used to check the fan speed. The testing procedure is in Special
Instruction, Form No. SEHS7807.
6V3121 Multitach Group
Checking Pressure Cap
One cause for a pressure loss in the cooling system can be a bad seal on the radiator pressure cap.
DO NOT loosen the filler or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam or hot
coolant can cause severe burns.
After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap and let the pressure out of the cooling system.
Then remove the pressure cap.
Typical Schematic Of Pressure Cap

(A) Sealing surface of cap and radiator.
Inspect the pressure cap carefully. Look for damage to the seal or to the surface that seals. Any
foreign material or deposits on the cap, seal or surface that seals, must be removed.
The 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group is used to test pressure caps and to
pressure check the cooling system for leaks.
DO NOT loosen the filler or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam or hot
coolant can cause severe burns.
1. After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap to the first stop and let the pressure out of the
cooling system. Then remove the pressure cap.
2. Put the pressure cap on the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group.
9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group

(A) Release Valve. (B) Adapter. (C) Hose.
3. Look at the gauge for the exact pressure that makes the pressure cap open.
4. Make a comparison of the reading on the gauge with the correct pressure at which the pressure
cap must open.
NOTE: The correct pressure that makes the pressure cap open is on the pressure cap and is also in
the Specifications.
5. If the pressure cap is bad, install a new pressure cap.
Testing Radiator and Cooling System for Leaks

To test the radiator and cooling system for leaks, use the procedure that follows:
DO NOT loosen the filler cap or pressure cap on a hot engine. Steam or
hot coolant can cause severe burns.
1. After the engine is cool, loosen the pressure cap to the first stop and let the pressure out of the
cooling system. Then remove the pressure cap.
2. Make sure the coolant is over the top of the radiator core.
3. Put the 9S8140 Cooling System Pressurizing Pump Group on the radiator.
4. Get the pressure reading on the gauge to 20 kPa (3 psi) more than the pressure on the pressure
cap.
5. Check the radiator for outside leakage.
6. Check all connections and hoses for the cooling system for outside leakage.
7. If you do not see any outside leakage and the pressure reading on the gauge is still the same
after 5 minutes, the radiator and cooling system does not have leakage. If the reading on the gauge
goes down and you do not see any outside leakage, there is leakage on the inside of the cooling
system. Make repairs as necessary.
Water Temperature Regulator

1. Remove the regulator from the engine.
2. Heat water in a pan until the temperature is 90C (195F). This is the correct temperature for
opening the regulator. Move the water around in the pan to make it all be the same temperature.
3. Hang the regulator in the pan of water. The regulator must be below the surface of the water
and it must be away from the sides and bottom of the pan.
4. Keep the water at the correct temperature for 10 minutes.
5. After ten minutes, remove the regulator and immediately measure the distance the regulator has
opened. The distance must be a minimum of 9.53 mm (.375 in.).
6. If the distance is less than 9.53 mm (.375 in.), make a replacement of the regulator.
V-Belt Tension Chart
Basic Block
Piston Rings
This engine has piston grooves and rings of the KEYSTONE (taper) design. The 1U6431
Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge Group is available to check the top two ring grooves in the
piston. For correct use of the gauge group see the instruction card that is with the gauge group.
Instructions For 1U6431 Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge Group
Pistons With Straight Sides in Ring Grooves

A 5P3519 Piston Ring Groove Gauge is available for checking ring grooves with straight sides.
For instructions on the use of the gauge, see the Guideline For Reusable Parts; Pistons, Form No.
SEBF8049.
Piston Ring Groove Gauge
Connecting Rods And Pistons

Use the 7S9470 Piston Ring Expander to remove or install piston rings.
Use the 5P3525 Piston Ring Compressor to install pistons into cylinder block.
Tighten the connecting rod nuts in the step sequence that follows:
1. Put 2P2506 Thread Lubricant on threads.
2. Tighten both nuts to 40 4 Nm (30 3 lb ft).
3. Put a mark on each nut and cap.
4. Tighten each nut 90 from the mark.
The connecting rod bearings must fit tightly in the bore in the rod. If bearing joints or backs are
worn (fretted), check for bore size as this is an indication of wear because of looseness.
Connecting Rod And Main Bearings

Bearings are available with 0.25 mm (.010 in.), 0.51 mm (.020 in.) and 0.76 mm (.030 in.) smaller
inside diameter than the original size bearings. These bearings are for crankshafts that have been
"ground" (made smaller) than the original size.
Cylinder Liner Projection
The correct cylinder liner projection is important to prevent a leak between the liner, cylinder
head, and block. Check cylinder liner projection above the spacer plate as follows:
1. Be sure that the surfaces of the cylinder block, cylinder liner, and the spacer plate are clean.
2. Install the spacer plate gasket and spacer plate (4) on the cylinder block. Use S1589 Bolts (1)
with two 1S379 Washers on each bolt to hold the spacer plate to the cylinder block. Put two bolts
with washers on each side of the opening for the cylinder liner. Tighten the bolts evenly, in four
steps; 14 Nm (10 lb ft), 35 Nm (25 lb ft), 70 Nm (50 lb ft), and 95 Nm (70 lb ft).
NOTE: To keep from moving bolts and washers as each liner is checked install two bolts with
washers on each side of each cylinder liner, along the complete length of the spacer plate.
3. Install the cylinder liner without seals in the cylinder block. Put adapter plate (7) on the cylinder
liner as shown. Install crossbar (2) with 1D4595 Bolts (3), 2S736 Washers and 3H465 Plates (5)
as shown. Tighten the bolts evenly, in four steps; 7 Nm (5 lb ft), 20 Nm (15 lb ft), 35 Nm (25 lb
ft) and 70 Nm (50 lb ft). The measurement from the bottom of crossbar (2) to the spacer plate,
must be the same on both sides of the cylinder liner.
4. Install the 1P5512 Contact Point on dial indicator (6). Put the dial indicator in the 1P2402
Gauge Body. To adjust the dial indicator to zero, put dial indicator and gauge body on the 1P5507
Gauge. Move the dial indicator until the hand moves 1/4 turn. Tighten bolt on body to hold the
dial indicator in this position. Turn the dial face until the zero is in alignment with the hand.
Measuring Cylinder Liner Projection

(1) S1589 Bolt with two 1S379 Washers. (2) Crossbar. (3) 1D4595 Bolt. (4) Spacer plate. (5) 3H465 Plates. (6)
1P2403 Dial Indicator. (7) 1P2394 Adapter Plate.
5. Measure the cylinder liner projection as close as possible to the four corners of the adapter plate
on the liner. The liner projection must be 0.033 to 0.175 mm (.0012 to .0069 in.). The difference
between the four measurements must not be more than 0.05 mm (.002 in.). The difference in the
average cylinder liner projection of liners next to each other must not be more than 0.05 mm (.002
in.). The maximum difference in the average projection for all cylinder liners must not be more
than 0.10 mm (.004 in.) for the 3306B Engine and 0.08 mm (.003 in.) for the 3304B Engine.
NOTE: If the liner projection changes from point to point around the liner, turn the liner to a new
position in the bore. If the liner projection is still not to specifications, move the liner to a different
bore.
6. When the cylinder liner projection is correct, put a temporary mark on the liner and the spacer
plate so at final installation the liner can be installed in the correct position.
Cylinder liner projection can be adjusted by the removal of material from (machining) the contact
face of the cylinder block with the use of 8S3140 Cylinder Block Counterboring Tool
Arrangement. The instructions for the use of the tool group are in Special Instruction, Form No.
FM055228.
Cylinder Block
The bore in the block for main bearings can be checked with the main bearing caps installed
without bearings. Tighten the nuts holding the caps to the torque shown in the
SPECIFICATIONS. Alignment error in the bores must not be more than 0.08 mm (.003 in.).
Special Instruction, Form No. SMHS7606 gives instructions for checking alignment of the main
bearing bores. 1P3537 Dial Bore Gauge Group can be used to check the size of the bores. Special
Instruction, Form No. GMG00981 is with the group.
1P3537 Dial Bore Gauge Group
Flywheel And Flywheel Housing

Installing Ring Gear
Heat the ring gear to install it. Do not heat to more than 315C (600F). Install the ring gear so the
chamfer on the gear teeth are next to the starter pinion when the flywheel is installed.
Face Run Out (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing
If any method other than given here is used, always remember bearing clearance must be removed
to get correct measurements.
8T5096 Dial Indicator Group Installed
Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel Housing

(A) Bottom. (B) Right side. (C) Top. (D) Left side.
1. Fasten a dial indicator to the crankshaft flange so the anvil of the indicator will touch the face of
the flywheel housing.
2. Put a force on the crankshaft toward the rear before the indicator is read at each point.
3. With dial indicator set at 0.0 mm (.000 in.) at location (A), turn the crankshaft and read the
indicator at locations (B), (C) and (D).
4. The difference between lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be
more than 0.38 mm (.015 in.), which is the maximum permissible face run out (axial eccentricity)
of the flywheel housing.
Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel Housing
8T5096 Dial Indicator Group Installed
1. Fasten the dial indicator as shown so the anvil of the indicator will touch the bore of the
flywheel housing.
2. With the dial indicator in position at (C), adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero). Push the
crankshaft up against the top of the bearing. Write the measurement for bearing clearance on line 1
in column (C) in the Chart For Dial Indicator Measurements.
NOTE: Write the dial indicator measurements with their positive (+) and negative (-) notation
(signs). This notation is necessary for making the calculations in the chart correctly.
3. Divide the measurement from Step 2 by 2. Write this number on line 1 in columns (B) & (D).
4. Turn the crankshaft to put the dial indicator at (A). Adjust the dial indicator to "0" (zero).
5. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (B). Write the measurements in
the chart.
Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel Housing
6. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (C). Write the measurement in
the chart.
7. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to put the dial indicator at (D). Write the measurement in
the chart.
8. Add lines I and II by columns.
9. Subtract the smaller number from the larger number in line III in columns (B) & (D). The result
is the horizontal eccentricity (out of round). Line III, column (C) is the vertical eccentricity.
10. On the graph for total eccentricity find the point of intersection of the lines for vertical
eccentricity and horizontal eccentricity.
11. If the point of intersection is in the range marked "Acceptable" the bore is in alignment. If the
point of intersection is in the ranged marked "Not Acceptable" the flywheel housing must be
changed.
Graph For Total Eccentricity
Face Runout (axial eccentricity) of the Flywheel

1. Install the dial indicator as shown. Always put a force on the crankshaft in the same direction
before the indicator is read so the crankshaft end clearance (movement) is always removed.
Checking Face Runout Of The Flywheel
2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).
3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90.
4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be
more than 0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible face runout (axial eccentricity)
of the flywheel.
Bore Runout (radial eccentricity) of the Flywheel

1. Install the dial indicator (3) and make an adjustment of the universal attachment (4) so it makes
contact as shown.
Checking Bore Runout Of The Flywheel

(1) 7H1945 Holding Rod. (2) 7H1645 Holding Rod. (3) 7H1942 Indicator. (4) 7H1940 Universal Attachment.
2. Set the dial indicator to read 0.0 mm (.000 in.).
3. Turn the flywheel and read the indicator every 90.
4. The difference between the lower and higher measurements taken at all four points must not be
more than 0.15 mm (.006 in.), which is the maximum permissible bore runout (radial eccentricity)
of the flywheel.
5. Runout (eccentricity) of the bore for the pilot bearing for the flywheel clutch, must not exceed
0.13 mm (.005 in.).
Checking Flywheel Clutch Pilot Bearing Bore
Vibration Damper
Damage to or failure of the damper will increase vibrations and result in damage to the crankshaft.
It will cause more gear train noise at variable points in the speed range.
The rubber vibration damper has marks (1) on the hub and the ring. These marks give an
indication of the condition of the vibration damper. If the marks are not in alignment, the rubber
part (between the ring and the hub) of the vibration damper has had a separation from the ring
and/or hub. If the marks are not in alignment, install a new vibration damper.
Rubber Vibration Damper

(1) Alignment marks.
A used vibration damper can have a visual wobble (movement to the front and then to the rear
when in rotation) on the outer ring and still not need replacement, because some wobble of the
outer ring is normal. To see if the amount of wobble is acceptable, or replacement is necessary,
check the damper with the procedure that follows:
1. Install a dial indicator, contact point and other parts as necessary to hold the dial indicator
stationary. The contact point must be perpendicular (at 90 angle) to the face of the outer ring of
the damper, and must make contact approximately at the center of the outer ring.
2. Push on the front end of the crankshaft so the end play (free movement on the centerline) is
removed. Keep the crankshaft pushed back until the measurements are taken.
3. Adjust the dial indicator to zero.
4. Turn the crankshaft 360 and watch the dial indicator. A total indicator reading of .00 to 2.03
mm (.000 to .080 in.) is acceptable.
Electrical System
Test Tools For Electrical System
Most of the tests of the electrical system can be done on the engine. The wiring insulation must be
in good condition, the wire and cable connections must be clean and tight, and the battery must be
fully charged. If the on-engine test shows a defect in a component, remove the component for
more testing.
The service manual Testing And Adjusting Electrical Components, Form No. REG00636, has
complete specifications and procedures for the components of the starting circuit and the charging
circuit.
6V4930 Battery Load Tester
The 6V4930 Battery Load Tester is a portable unit in a metal case for use under field conditions
and high temperatures. It can be used to load test all 6, 8 and 12V batteries. This tester has two
heavy-duty load cables that can easily be fastened to the battery terminals, and a load adjustment
knob on the front panel permits a current range up to a maximum of 700 amperes. The tester also
has a thermometer to show when the safe operating temperature limit of the unit has been reached.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8268 for more complete
information for use of the 6V4930 Battery Loader Test.
8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter
The 8T900 AC/DC Clamp-On Ammeter is a completely portable, self-contained instrument that
allows electrical current measurements to be made without breaking the circuit or disturbing the
insulation on conductors. A digital display is located on the ammeter for reading current directly
in a range from 1 to 1200 amperes. If an optional 6V6014 Cable is connected between this
ammeter and one of the digital multimeters, current readings of less than 1 ampere can then be
read directly from the display of the multimeter.
A lever is used to open the jaws over the conductor [up to a diameter of 19 mm (.75 in.)], and the
spring loaded jaws are then closed around the conductor for current measurement. A trigger
switch that can be locked in the ON or OFF position is used to turn on the ammeter. When the turn
-on trigger is released, the last current reading is held on the display for 5 seconds. This allows
accurate measurements to be taken in limited access areas where the digital display is not visible
to the operator. A zero control is provided for DC operation, and power for the ammeter is
supplied by batteries located inside the handle.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS8420 for more information for use
of the 8T900 Clamp-on Ammeter.
6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter
The 6V7070 Heavy-Duty Digital Multimeter is a completely portable, hand held instrument with a
digital display. This multimeter is built with extra protection against damage in field applications,
and is equipped with seven functions and 29 ranges. The 6V7070 Multimeter has an instant ohms
indicator that permits continuity checking for fast circuit inspection. It also can be used for
troubleshooting small value capacitors.
The 6V7800 Regular-Duty Digital Multimeter (a low cost option to the Heavy-Duty Multimeter)
is also available; however, the 6V7800 Multimeter does not have the 10A range or the instant
ohms feature of the 6V7070 Multimeter.
NOTE: Make reference to Special Instruction, Form No. SEHS7734 for more complete
information for use of the 6V7070 and 6V7800 Multimeters.
Battery
Never disconnect any charging unit circuit or battery circuit cable from
battery when the charging unit is operated. A spark can cause an
explosion from the flammable vapor mixture of hydrogen and oxygen
that is released from the electrolyte through the battery outlets. Injury
to personnel can be the result.
The battery circuit is an electrical load on the charging unit. The load is variable because of the
condition of the charge in the battery. Damage to the charging unit will result if the connections
(either positive or negative) between the battery and charging unit are broken while the charging
unit is in operation. This is because the battery load is lost and there is an increase in charging
voltage. High voltage will damage, not only the charging unit, but also the regulator and other
electrical components.
Use the 6V4930 Battery Load Tester, the 8T900 Clamp-On Ammeter and the 6V7070 Multimeter
to load test a battery that does not hold a charge when in use. See Special Instruction, Form No.
SEHS8268 for the correct procedure and specifications to use.
Charging System
The condition of charge in the battery at each regular inspection will show if the charging system
operates correctly. An adjustment is necessary when the battery is constantly in a low condition of
charge or a large amount of water is needed (more than one ounce of water per cell per week or
per every 100 service hours).
When it is possible, make a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator on the engine, and use
wiring and components that are a permanent part of the system. Off-engine (bench) testing will
give a test of the charging unit and voltage regulator operation. This testing will give an indication
of needed repair. After repairs are made, again make a test to give proof that the units are repaired
to their original condition of operation.
Before the start of on-engine testing, the charging system and battery must be checked as shown in
the Steps that follow:
1. Battery must be at least 75% (1.225 Sp. Gr.) fully charged and held tightly in place. The battery
holder must not put too much stress on the battery.
2. Cables between the battery, starter and engine ground must be the correct size. Wires and cables
must be free of corrosion and have cable support clamps to prevent stress on battery connections
(terminals).
3. Leads, junctions, switches and panel instruments that have direct relation to the charging circuit
must give correct circuit control.
4. Inspect the drive components for the charging unit to be sure they are free of grease and oil and
have the ability to operate the charging unit.
Delco-Remy Alternator; Pulley Nut Tightening

Tighten nut that holds the pulley to a torque of 100 7 Nm (75 5 lb ft) with the tools shown.
Tools To Tighten Alternator Pulley Nut

(1) 8T9293 Torque Wrench. (2) 8S1588 Adapter (1/2" female to 3/8" male). (3) 2P8267 Socket Assembly. (4)
8H8517 Combination Wrench (1 1/8"). (5) 8T5314 Socket.
Alternator Regulator Adjustment (Delco-Remy)

When an alternator is charging the battery too much or not enough, an adjustment can be made to
the charging rate of the alternator. Make reference to the Specifications section to find all testing
specifications for the alternators and regulators.
3T6352 Alternator 24V 35A (Delco-Remy Number 1117647)
3T6352 Alternator
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on the alternator regulator. If rate of
charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
7N9720 Alternator 24V 35A (Bosch Number 0-122-469-001)
7N9720 Alternator
The solid state regulator used with the Bosch Alternator is totally enclosed and non-adjustable. If
the rate of charge is not correct a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
9G4574 24V 35A (Nippondenso Number 100211-0860)
9G4574 Alternator
No adjustment can be made to change the rate of charge on the alternator regulator. If rate of
charge is not correct, a replacement of the regulator is necessary.
Starting System
Use the multimeter in the DCV range to find starting system components which do not function.
Move the start control switch to activate the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid operation can be
heard as the pinion of the starter motor is engaged with the ring gear on the engine flywheel.
If the solenoid for the starter motor will not operate, it is possible that the current from the battery
did not get to the solenoid. Fasten one lead of the multimeter to the connection (terminal) for the
battery cable on the solenoid. Put the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading is an indication
that there is a broken circuit from the battery. More testing is necessary when there is a voltage
reading on the multimeter.
The solenoid operation also closes the electric circuit to the motor. Connect one lead of the
multimeter to the solenoid connection (terminal) that is fastened to the motor. Put the other lead to
a good ground. Activate the starter solenoid and look at the multimeter. A reading of battery
voltage shows the problem is in the motor. The motor must be removed for further testing. A zero
reading on the multimeter shows that the solenoid contacts do not close. This is an indication of
the need for repair to the solenoid or an adjustment to be made to the starter pinion clearance.
Make a test with one multimeter lead fastened to the connection (terminal) for the small wire at
the solenoid and the other lead to the ground. Look at the multimeter and activate the starter
solenoid. A voltage reading shows that the problem is in the solenoid. A zero reading is an
indication that the problem is in the start switch or the wires for the start switch.
Fasten one multimeter lead to the start switch at the connection (terminal) for the wire from the
battery. Fasten the other lead to a good ground. A zero reading indicates a broken circuit from the
battery. Make a check of the circuit breaker and wiring. If there is a voltage reading, the problem
is in the start switch or in the wires for the start switch.
A starter motor that operates too slow can have an overload because of too much friction in the
engine being started. Slow operation of the starter motor can also be caused by a short circuit,
loose connections and/or dirt in the motor.
Starter Motor Adjustments (Delco-Remy)
Pinion Clearance Adjustment
When the solenoid is installed, make an adjustment of the pinion clearance. The adjustment can be
made with the starter motor removed.
Connection For Checking Pinion Clearance

(1) Connector from MOTOR terminal on solenoid to motor. (2) SW terminal. (3) Ground terminal.
1. Install the solenoid without connector (1) from the MOTOR connections (terminal) on solenoid
to the motor.
2. Connect a battery, of the same voltage as the solenoid, to the terminal (2), marked SW.
3. Connect the other side of the battery to ground terminal (3).
4. Connect for a moment, a wire from the solenoid connection (terminal) marked MOTOR to the
ground connection (terminal). The pinion will shift to crank position and will stay there until the
battery is disconnected.

(4) Shaft nut. (5)) Pinion. (6) Pinion clearance.
5. Push the pinion toward the commutator end to remove free movement.
6. Pinion clearance (6) must be 8.3 to 9.9 mm (.33 to .39 in.).
7. To adjust pinion clearance, remove plug and turn nut (4).
Starter Motor Adjustments (Prestolite)
There are two adjustments on this type motor. They are end play for the armature and pinion
clearance.
End Play For The Armature
The correct end play for the armature is 0.13 to 0.76 mm (.005 to .030 in.). The adjustment is
made by adding or removing thrust washers on the commutator end of the armature shaft.
Connections For Adjustment Of The Pinion Clearance

(1) Stud.
1. To adjust the pinion distance, connect the 24V solenoid to a 12 volt battery (12V solenoid to a 6
volt battery) as shown. For a short moment, connect a wire from the "motor" stud of the solenoid
to the stud at (1) in the commutator end. This moves the solenoid and drive into the cranking
position.
Disconnect the wire.
NOTE: The drive is in the cranking position until the battery is disconnected.

(2) Adjustment nut. (3) Distance.
2. Push the drive toward the commutator end of the motor to eliminate any slack movement in the
linkage and measure the distance between the outside edge of the drive sleeve and the thrust
washer. The distance (3) must be 0.51 to 1.27 mm (.020 to .050 in.).
3. Remove the plug. Turn the adjustment nut (2) in or out as necessary to get this distance.
4. Install the plug.
Starter Motor Adjustments (Bosch)
Solenoid Position Adjustment
Solenoid Assembly
(1) Intermediate housing. (2) Solenoid mounting bracket. (3) Bolts. (X) 62.5 0.2 -0.5 mm (2.46 .008 - .020 in.)
The solenoid position on the starter motor controls the pinion clearance. If the solenoid position
dimension is correct, the pinion clearance is correct. The adjustment can be made with the starter
motor removed.
1. Check distance (X) between intermediate housing (1) and solenoid bracket (2).
2. If distance (X) is not correct, loosen bolts (3) and move the solenoid until distance (X) is
correct. Bracket (2) has elongated holes.
3. Tighten bolts (3) after the adjustment is correct, to a torque of 7 to 10 Nm (5 to 7 lb ft).
Armeture End Plate Adjustment
The aramature end plate adjustment is made during assembly of the starter motor.
Starter Motor End Cover

(1) Plug. (2) Spacer. (X) Distance between aramature and face of end cover. (Y) Length of plug threads.
1. Remove center plug (1) and spacer (2) from the end cover.
2. Force the armature assembly into the drive housing up against the spacer.
3. Measure distance (X) from the end cover to the aramature assembly.
4. Measure length of threads (Y) of plug (1).
5. Subtract measurement (Y) from measurement (X). This difference is the aramature end play.
The allowable end play is 0.1 to 0.4 mm (.004 to .012 in.). The end play can be adjusted with
different spacers (2). The thickness of each is as follows:
1.5 mm (.059 in.)1.7 mm (.067 in.)1.9 mm (.075 in.)2.1 mm (.083 in.)2.3 mm (.090 in.)2.5 mm
(.100 in.)
6. Install correct spacer (2). Put 9S3263 Thread Lock on threads of plug (1) and install it into the
end cover.
Copyright 1993 - 2011 Caterpillar Inc. Sun Nov 27 08:39:13 UTC-0400 2011
All Rights Reserved.
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3306 Troubleshoot

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Testing and Adjusting

Testing And Adjusting

11. Mechanical Noise (Knock) In Engine.

Problem 1: Engine Crankshaft Will Not Turn When Start Switch Is On

1. Battery Has Low Output:

Make Reference to Problem 27.

2. Wires Or Switches Have Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 27.

3. Starter Motor Solenoid Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 26.

4. Starter Motor Has A Defect:

Make Reference to Problem 26.

5. Inside Problem Prevents Engine Crankshaft From Turning:

Problem 2: Engine Will Not Start

1. Slow Cranking Speed:

Make reference to Problem 27.

2. No Fuel In The Housing For The Fuel Injection Pumps:

3. Dirty Fuel Filter:

Install new fuel filter.

4. Dirty or Broken Fuel Lines:

Clean or install new fuel lines as necessary.

6. Bad Quality Fuel:

8. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

9. Over fueling Spring Not Installed:

Install over fueling spring.

Problem 3: Misfiring Or Running Rough

1. Air In The Fuel System:

2. Fuel Pressure is Low:

Install a new fuel line.

4. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Injection Pump(s):

5. Fuel System Not Timed Correctly to Engine:

Make adjustment to timing if necessary.

6. Wrong Valve Clearance:

7. Bent or Broken Push Rod:

Replacement of push rod is necessary.

8. Worn Valve Seat or Face of Valve:

Reconditioning of cylinder head is needed.

Problem 4: Stall At Low rpm

1. Idle rpm Too Low:

2. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

Problem 5: Sudden Changes In Engine Speed (rpm)

1. Failure of Governor or Fuel Injection Pump:

Problem 6: Not Enough Power

1. Air In The Fuel System:

2. Fuel Pressure Is Low:

3. Bad Quality Fuel:

4. Constant Bleed Valve Stays Open or Closed:

Install new parts if needed.

5. Leaks in Air Inlet System:

7. Wrong Valve Clearance:

8. Defect in Fuel Injection Valve(s) or Fuel Injection Pump(s):

9. Wrong Fuel Injection Timing:

Make adjustment to timing.

10. Fuel Setting Too Low:

Make reference to the Fuel Setting And Related Information Fiche.

11. Turbocharger Has Carbon Deposits or Other Causes of Friction:

Make inspection and repair of turbocharger as necessary.

Problem 7: Too Much Vibration

1. Loose Bolt in Nut Holding Pulley or Damper:

Tighten bolt or nut.

2. Pulley or Damper Has A Defect: