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A
Toast,
to
the
Good
Ol’
Days The city’s current Golden Age
of cocktails continues to be
inspired by the past. Drinking GET THE LOOK
by today’s standards requires For Comstock Saloon owner Jonny
Raglin, every day’s an excuse to get
a high tolerance and a local into costume. He doesn’t just mix
66 7 x 7. c o m augus t 201 0
Barbary Coast comstock saloon
(1848–1858)
L
ike a Saturday night in the Castro,
men outnumbered women in San
Francisco 70-to-1 during the Gold
Rush years. The watering holes were
a mix of simple saloons and opulent hotels. Many
of these establishments burned in the 1906
earthquake and fire and were rebuilt—just in
time for Prohibition. Pisco Punch
2 ounces pisco
1 ounce fresh lemon juice
Look for: Sailing ships, gold miners, bordellos, 1 ounce Small Hand Foods
pineapple gum syrup
elaborate carved wood bars, brick walls, signage using
Combine everything in a shaker.
the word “saloon,” waxed mustaches Shake. Strain into a chilled glass.
SF classics: Hotel Utah Saloon, The Saloon,
Savoy-Tivoli
Modern remixes: Comstock Saloon, Wayfare Tavern,
Taverna Aventine
The bible: The Bartender’s Guide, or How to Mix
Drinks by Jerry Thomas (1862)
What to drink: pisco punch, Anchor Steam beer,
shot of whiskey
rickhouse
Speakeasy
(1920–1933)
W
e can thank Prohibition for spreading
American cocktails around the world
(see: fleeing bartenders), not to men-
tion necessitating speakeasy bars where
White Lady the sexes finally were allowed to commingle. But it wasn’t
2 ounces gin all good news: You had to do it illegally. Then, as now, the
1 ounce lemon juice
1 ounce Cointreau
Tenderloin was the best place to look for underground
Combine everything in a drinking establishments. One former SF speakeasy, trap-
shaker. Shake. Strain into
a chilled glass.
door and all, is now occupied by Bourbon & Branch.
201 0 augus t 7 x 7. c o m 67
eat+drink
The Martini
Martini Bar 3 ounces gin or vodka
2 dashes dry vermouth
Stir all ingredients over ice
(1930s–1960s) and strain into cocktail glass.
Garnish with cocktail olive.
Y
ou know the drill: Nick
and Nora, Dorothy Parker,
Dean Martin, James Bond.
Between the supper clubs,
three-drink lunches and neighborhood
bars, SF’s long loved this simple drink. In
fact, some say the “Martinez,” which origi-
nated here, was the martini precursor.
the residence
Fern Bar
(1970–1980s)
S
F bars Henry Africa’s (1970) and Perry’s (1969) are both
credited with starting the fern-bar trend that wound up
in a starring role as the Regal Beagle in Three’s Company
and launched a thousand T.G.I. Friday’s. Still, while
the new formula Galliano isn’t half bad (welcome back, Harvey
Wallbanger), we’re not sure that, cocktail-wise, a fern bar revival is
Lemon Drop an entirely good idea. Plant-wise, bring it on.
2 ounces citrus flavored
vodka
1 ounce lemon juice
Look for: faux Tiffany lamps, brass accents, knick-knacks, overstuffed
½ ounce simple syrup furniture, indoor plants, occasional wicker
(equal parts sugar and
water, shaken until SF classics: Perry’s Union Street, Royal Oak, The Lion Pub
sugar dissolves)
Rub lemon wedge Modern remixes: Eddie Rickenbacker’s (from the founder of Henry
around outside rim of Africa’s), The Residence
a cocktail glass and dip
glass in sugar to coat. The bible: Jones’ Complete Bar Guide by Stan Jones (1977)
Combine ingredients
into a shaker. Shake. What to drink: Lemon Drop, Harvey Wallbanger, wine spritzer
Strain into a chilled
glass. Garnish with
Eddie Rickenbacker’s, 133 2nd St., 415-543-3498Perry’s Union Street, 1944 Union St., 415-
lemon wedge.
922-9022, perryssf.comThe Residence, 718 14th St., 415-797-8866Royal Oak, 2201 Polk St.,
415-928-2303The Lion Pub, 2062 Divisadero St., 415-567-6565
68 7 x 7. c o m augus t 201 0
Tiki
smuggler’s cove
1934–1980s
T
he tiki trend began in Hollywood in 1934 at
Don the Beachcomber and was soon copied in
Oakland by Trader Vic’s. After WWII, these
South Pacific theme bars spread around the coun-
try, but cocktail quality declined as the quantity of imitators
increased. Now local revivalists are bringing back better drinks.
Mai Tai
2 ounces aged Jamaican rum
¾ ounce lime juice
¾ ounce orange curaçao
1 teaspoon orgeat syrup
Combine everything in a shaker with
ice. Shake. Pour contents into an Old
Fashioned glass. Garnish with lime
wheel and mint sprig.
201 0 augus t 7 x 7. c o m 69