Solar Stirling Plant

M John
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2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

Table of Contents
1.0 Introduction .................................................................................................................... 4
2.0 Components .................................................................................................................... 6
2.1 The Stirling Engine ....................................................................................................................6
2.2 The Parabolic Reflector .............................................................................................................7

3.0 The Construction Process ............................................................................................... 10

3.1 Building the Parabolic Reflector Dish.......................................................................................10
3.1.1 Layout................................................................................................................................... 12
3.1.2 Reflective Foil........................................................................................................................ 14
3.2 Constructing the Stirling Engine...............................................................................................18
3.2.1 Brass Tubes ........................................................................................................................... 26
3.2.2 Music Wire............................................................................................................................ 26
3.2.3 Gasket Material..................................................................................................................... 27
3.2.4 Aluminum ............................................................................................................................. 27
3.2.5 Electrical Cover Plates ........................................................................................................... 28
3.2.6 Collars................................................................................................................................... 28
3.2.7 Styrofoam & Balsa................................................................................................................. 29
2.1.8 Epoxy .................................................................................................................................... 29

4.0 Assembly of the Stirling Motor Generator ...................................................................... 30

4.1 DC Power Motor.....................................................................................................................31
4.2 Battery Bank...........................................................................................................................32
4.3 Charge Controller....................................................................................................................32
4.4 Dump Load .............................................................................................................................33
4.5 AC Inverter .............................................................................................................................33

Maintenance ....................................................................................................................... 33
Future Improvements.......................................................................................................... 34
1.0 Introduction

Since you are already interested in a new type of free

energy, you might already know that the Solar Stirling Plant is
by far the most effective and efficient mean for producing
electrical energy.

Unlike the standard PV Panels, the Solar Stirling Plant is by

wide margin easier and cheaper to build, and at the same time
more effective at harnessing the solar energy from the sun.

Using the heat of the sun to provide energy to power your

home or business is an amazing and incredible concept. It is
mind-blowing when you actually consider that the Sun produces
enough energy everyday to sustain the average households
electrical needs. Unfortunately, global market forces have been
preventing most people from benefitting the Suns energy. If it
was not for the intentional suppression of the use of this type of
solar energy systems, it is quite conceivable that we could have
been using solar power for the majority of our energy needs for a
long time.

Take a moment to think about the value of the sun and its
role as a renewable resource. The amount of solar energy we use
today in no way effects the amount of energy that will be
available for use tomorrow or in 20 years. What is even better

4 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

about solar energy is that we are not borrowing from our
childrens future or creating greater problems for their children.

The sun produces on average 1,000 watts/per

square meter. Today, with this advanced technology we can get
real close to this figure.
2.0 Components

The Stirling Solar Plant is made up of two main components,

the Stirling Engine and a Parabolic Reflector. In the following
chapter we will discuss the function of each component within the
Stirling Solar Plant.

2.1 The Stirling Engine

The single most unique and main component of the Solar

Stirling Plant, as the name implies is the Stirling engine. The
Stirling Engine uses the heat from the Sun in order to rotate
and produce electrical energy.

The Scottish inventor Robert Stirling invented the engine in

1816, unfortunately the engine did not saw the light of day during
his lifetime. The Philips Company first used the designs almost
hundred years latter in the 1940s.

This heat engine operates on the principle of cyclic

compression and expansion of air or other gas at different
temperature levels, which allows net conversion of heat energy to
mechanical work. Like the steam engine, the Stirling Engine is
traditionally classified as an external combustion engine, as all
the heat to and from the working gas is transferred through the
engine wall, while the heat input in the internal combustion

6 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

engine is by combustion of fuel within the body of the working
fluid.

Unlike the steam engine that uses fluid in both its liquid and
gaseous phases, the Stirling engine uses predefined enclosed
fixed quantity of permanently gaseous fluid such as air. This is
why the Stirling engine is known for its high efficiency, quiet
functioning, and practicality, since it can use any heat source in
order to produce energy.

Nowadays, the common commercial use of the Stirling

Engine is as an auxiliary power generator for yachts. Future
implementations are planed for the next generation of nuclear
power plants, since they generate immense amounts of heat, the
main driving force behind the Stirling Engine.

You have already figured it out by now, the greatest thing

about this engine is, it can use virtually any heat source in order
to turn the engine, and what is a better permanent heat source
than the sun.

2.2 The Parabolic Reflector

To fully utilize the sun as a heat source you need a mirrored

(not inversed, but composed of mirrors), parabolic dish to reflect
and focus the sun's energy onto the hot end of a Stirling Engine.
The hot end is the component of the Stirling Engine where the
heat enters the engine.
 A parabolic reflector (dish or a mirror) is a reflective device
used to collect or project energy such as light, sound, or radio
waves. Its shape is that of a circular paraboloid, which is the
surface generated by a parabola revolving around its axis. The
parabolic reflector transforms an incoming plane wave traveling
along the axis into a spherical wave converging toward the focus.

Image 1

As you can see from the diagram on Image 1, all the sun
rays coming through the surface L are collected and diverted to
the focus F.

The parabolic reflectors property to collect and concentrate

all sorts of energy entering the reflector at a particular angle
makes it applicable for variety of electrical devices. It is most
commonly used in satellite dishes.

As we previously mentioned, in order to fully utilize the free

energy from the sun, we have made the parabolic reflector part
of our Solar Stirling Plant. It collects most of the sunrays and

8 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

concentrates them in to one spot, and that is where the Stirling
Engine will be placed. All this is done without any energy being
wasted.

Image 2

In Image 2, you can see the parabolic mirror, which you will
construct with our help, and the Stirling Engine, which is placed
in center of the focused sunrays. Produces electricity by using the
heat of the reflected and concentrated sunrays.
3.0 The Construction Process

3.1 Building the Parabolic Reflector Dish

Note: If you want you can skip this part all together and buy this type of
dish online, but it will cost you around $100-$150.

Final Result

Needed Material:

Reflective foil
Plywood Sheet 1000mm x 1000mm

The easiest and cheapest way to make such a dish is to cut and
fold a flat cardboard, then glue the aluminum foil on its inner
surface for reflectivity. Cardboard while easy to work with, is not

1 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

0
highly recommended due to its low durability, but for first time
users is easier and cheaper to work with so you can gain
experience.

We also recommend that you first make a scaled-down version

for practice (for example 1:4 or 1:5 model), using a piece of
paper. If you find the parabolic reflector too difficult to make, a
funnel shaped reflector is almost equally suitable alternative.

Note: Our parabolic reflector will be 5.1 focal length, and 31.5 in diameter.
The following dimensions can be scaled to make reflector dishes of different
sizes, we highly recommend that you first make a scaled down version with
regular paper.
3.1.1 Layout

Step 1

Using a ruler, draw an X line on the plywood so in the end the

plywood is divided on four equal parts.

Step 2

Draw a cross on the plywood, so the four parts are now divided in
half and now they make up eight equal pars.

1 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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Step 3

Now draw four more lines that segregate the area into sixteen
equal parts.

Step 4

First separate the median line (vertical middle) into eight equal
parts. Draw four circles such as each inner circle will fall on the
median lines you just drew. The forth-outer circle will land on the
ends of the median lines.
Step 5

Cut off the plywood outside of the outer circle.

Step 6

First cut along the dividing lines except the circles. Then fold the
petals in such manner so line 1 will connect with line 3, line 4
with line 6, line 7 with line 9, line 10 with line 12, line 13 with line
15, and line 16 with line 2. This will make the plywood into a bowl
shape.

3.1.2 Reflective Foil

Unless your sheet is already reflective, a reflective foil

should be applied after the parabolic reflector takes shape.
Aluminum foil for ordinary kitchen use is ideal. A thicker
(heavier gage) foil will be more durable. Aluminized plastic film
such as shiny food and beverage bags, or gift-wrap, is acceptable

1 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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but slightly less efficient and noticeably less durable than
aluminum foil.

Usually the foil is glued to the reflector, most water-based glue

will do. This includes glue made of flour, rice, or starch. To avoid
wrinkles on the foil, the glue must be thin enough so that it flows
easily.

It is easier to glue the foil on a flat sheet than on a parabolic dish.

However unless the sheet is very thin, the process of bending the
sheet will create wrinkles on the foil. Therefore it is best to apply
the foil after the dish is formed. By the way, sheet material that
expands and contracts significantly with humidity and
temperature also tends to create wrinkles on the foil. This is why
cardboard is not an ideal sheet material. The wrinkles reduce the
efficiency. They also shorten the life of the foil.

a) Cutting two trapezoidal pieces out of a rectangular foil

b) Cutting short slots along edges of each wedge

Two identical trapezoids can be cut from a rectangle with very
little waste (fig. 5). Try with used newspaper first to determine
the optimal width, length, and slope, as it depends on the shape
and size of your foil supply. Short slots can be cut along edges of
the trapezoid, so that the foil can overlap instead of wrinkle. The
trapezoids should cover all facets completely, except a circular
foil at the end will cover the inner circle.

Coat the inner surface of a petal thoroughly with glue, however

do not overuse glue if the sheet material (such as cardboard)
may swell when wet. Apply the foil, with the shinny side facing
up. To avoid bubbles, it is best to engage a small portion of the
foil on the petal at first. Keep most of the foil in the air, free of
glue. Then slowly extending the engaged area by pushing over
the foil. It is best to attach foil near its centerline (along its
length) first. So that it will be obvious how much the foil should
bend and overlap near its edges. It is OK if excess glue smears
over the reflecting surface. The glue can be wiped off later.

It is best to overlap the foil slightly, so that no direct sunlight will

strike the sheet material. For the same reason, it is best to have
a little extra length so that the foil can fold over the rim of the
dish. This prevents ultraviolet sunlight from damaging the
reflector.

1 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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Caution: Do not work with reflective material in direct sunlight, as it may
cause eye injury. Keep your reflector indoors until it is completely
assembled.

When the entire reflecting surface is covered by aluminum

foil, wipe the reflective surface gently with damp, clean cloth.
Wash the cloth frequently as needed. The wiping removes excess
glue, flattens the foil, and improves adhesion. Allow the glue to
dry, which may take a few days if the sheet material is permeable
to water. Then wipe again with damp, clean cloth to remove the
remaining glue smear and smudge.

After you have finished the constriction of the parabolic reflector

dish, we will begin the construction of the Stirling Engine.
3.2 Constructing the Stirling Engine

Now we will construct the single most unique component of

the Solar Stirling Plant, as we stated earlier that is the Stirling
engine.

The Stirling Engine uses the heat derived from the

Parabolic Reflector Dish, which in return derives the energy from
the Sun in order to rotate the Stirling engine.

The table on the next page represents all the needed

materials for the construction of the Stirling Engine. Some of the
components need further fabrication. For those components that
need custom fabrication we have provided detailed schematics.
The detail schematics are presented in the Stirling Schematics
file.

Pay close attention on the table on the next page, especially

the notes section, since in it we have presented the page
numbers for the corresponding schematics in the Stirling
Schematics file.

Below are all the parts needed to assambly the Stirling

Generator. Please pay close attantion , if you can not make them
yourself just go to a local mechanical shop with the designs and
they will make them for you, but I assure you that you can easily
make them yourself and you will have no problems.

1 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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Item
Part Name Quantity Material Description Part Notes/ Building suggestions
Number

Make the pipe end to be glued against the hot plate square and smooth. It must make an air-
ABS 3 inch dia
1 1 ABS Plumbing fitting tight/water-tight seal with the hot plate. It is easier to leave the pipe long until it has been glued, then
x 1.5
cut to the finish length.

Use sandpaper on a flat surface to smooth the edge of the ABS coupling that will go against the gasket.
ABS Coupling 3 When gluing the ABS pipe into the ABS coupling with the hot plate sandwiched between the two, be
2 1 ABS Plumbing fitting
inch sure to use ample ABS cement for an air-tight/water-tight seal. Maintain pressure on pipe so that it
does not pop out while the cement hardens.

Match drill the center hole in the cold plate with the corresponding tube in the main mounting tube.
Galvanized 4 inch square electrical
3 Cold plate 1 Drill the cold plate first, then with the support tube holes in the main mounting tube you can clamp the
steel cover plate
two pieces together and use the cold plate as a guide for drilling the main mounting tube.(page1)

Du-Bro #137 or other This collar is used to keep the Displacer fork pin from falling out. Du-Bro parts are available from
4 collar .062 1 Brass or Steel
source hobby stores or online.

This collar is used to keep the Crankshaft bearing tube in position. You may need to add some washers
Du-Bro #138 or other or other spacers to fill the space between the Crankshaft support angle and the Crankshaft support
5 collar .125 1 Brass or Steel
source backup. Be careful to use light pressure on the collar set screw to avoid crushing the bearing tube and
causing high friction on the Crankshaft.
Galvanized 4 inch square electrical
6 Cover Plate 1 The base of the engine. You can add or substitute a wood or other base as desired.
steel cover plate
 Deburr the ends. Press one into Flywheel arm. If the fit is too loose or if the pin moves use epoxy or
K&S Engineering .062"
7 Crank pin 2 Music Wire other adhesive to lock it into position. You may adjust the length depending on where the rod-end
dia x .875" long
rides.

K&S Engineering 3/32"

8 Crankshaft 1 Music wire Deburr but keep ends square for clamping, especially on Displacer Crank 2.
dia x 1-5/16" long
K&S Engineering 1/8"
Crankshaft
9 1 Brass Tube dia x .014" wall x .75" Deburr. A light grease inside will reduce friction.
bearing tube
long

Crankshaft Aluminum 3/4"x3/4"x1/8" x 5-3/8" The three holes that are also in the Crankshaft support backup should be match drilled. Rounding on
10 1
support angle Angle long ends and relief angle are not critical. Hardware-store aluminum is fine. (page2)

Crankshaft Aluminum
11 1 3/4"x1/8" x 2.5" long Match drill with the Crankshaft support angle. Hardware store aluminum is fine. (page3)
support backup flat bar

1" Foam insulation board such as sold at Home Depot is fine. Layers of thinner material may be used.
Styrofoam or 3.4" dia x 1" long. May
12 Displacer 1 Epoxy the displacer shaft in the exact center of the displacer and make sure the shaft is perpendicular.
Balsa wood be built up in layers
Use a drill press to hold the shaft while the 5-minute epoxy sets. (page9)

2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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 You could also make this piece from 1/4" square solid aluminum. Be careful when center-punching
holes not to crush the tube. The triangular cut to the .062 hole was done with a triangle file. It could be
Displacer Crank Brass square K&S Engineering 1/4"
13 1 slit with a saw as on the other end. I was concerned that sawing into the small hole would destroy it.
2 tube square x .014" wall
The triangle file gives good control. The screws need only be tightened lightly to lock them in
position. The forces on them are low. (page4)

Displacer
3/4"x3/4"x1/8 inch The holes in the angles are oversize to allow some freedom in positioning the displacer cylinder over
14 cylinder hold- 4 Aluminum
aluminum angle the displacer. You can make the holes even larger if you need to. (page5)
down angle

Displacer Fork Music Wire K&S Engineering Bend one end of the pin or use two collars and a shorter pin. Anything that will keep the pin from
15 1
pin 1/16 dia .062"dia x 1-3/8" long drifting out of the fork.

The gasket material needs to be reasonably soft and thick enough to tolerate some unevenness in the
cold plate and ABS coupling. Because it will see maximum pressures of less than one PSI, soft
Soft Gasket WonderLiner solid shelf
16 Displacer gasket 1 material is not a problem. You need a good seal for the engine to operate, but you cannot crank down
material and drawer liner
too hard on the hold-downs or you risk bending the cold plate. I'm able to get a good seal with the
WonderLiner using only finger tightening of the hold-down nuts. (page6)

Displacer rod Music Wire K&S Engineering You can use .062 music wire too. I chose .047 to save a little weight. Make sure to use music wire
17 1
shaft .047 dia .047"dia x 3-1/4" long (spring steel) and not softer steel.
 Music Wire K&S Engineering Make sure to use .062 dia music wire. This wire makes a good seal with the 3/32 dia tube that it slides
18 Displacer shaft 1
.062 dia .062"dia x 3-5/8" long in. The music wire is spring steel and will not easily get bent like softer steels.

Displacer shaft You don't need to buy this material separately, you can use some of the same material used in the Main
19 2 Aluminum .5" x .875" x 1/16" thick
fork mounting tube. Match drill the two pieces.(page8)

Made from the 1/8" x 3/4" bar. Match drill with the Displacer shaft fork. Cut the V-groove with a
Displacer shaft
20 1 Aluminum .5"x .375" x 1/8" thick triangular file. It doesn't need to be deep, just enough to hold the displacer shaft in alignment with the
fork center
fork while you tighten the screws. (page7)

Deburr. You will 5-minute epoxy this tube to the main mounting tube. Don't put any epoxy on the face
K&S Engineering 3/32" that clamps against the gasket and cold plate, Use epoxy on the inside of the main mounting tube.
Displacer shaft
21 1 Brass Tube dia x .014" wall x 1- Reach in with a tooth pick or other tool to apply the epoxy as best you can. You only need to hold the
tube
3/16" long tube in place, it does not have much force on it. A Light grease may reduce the sliding friction of the
displacer shaft inside the tube.

You might have difficulty locating 1/4" x 1/2" aluminum bar at a hardware store. You can cut down a
22 Flywheel arm 1 Aluminum 1/4" x 1/2" x 5" long
1/4" x 1" bar or consider buying it online. (page10)

Hose Clamp, 4.5 Steel or Range includes 4-1/2" A standard hose clamp that should be available in the plumbing section. It may be a 4"-6" size range.
23 1
inch diameter Stainless steel diameter 4" -5" would also work.

24 hot plate 1 Galvanized Made from 4 inch square It should be a slip fit.(page11)

2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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 steel cover plate
Main mounting Aluminum 1" x 1" x 5-9/16" long x
25 1 The 1/16" wall isn't critical. My tube has a .047" wall. A 1/8" wall will work too.(page13)
tube square tubing 1/16" wall

See discussion on displacer gasket. If you have trouble getting a good seal with this gasket, look to see
Main mounting Soft Gasket WonderLiner solid shelf
26 1 if the cold plate is warped. If it is warped put the convex side against the Main mounting tube and the
tube gasket material and drawer liner
seal should improve when the two pieces are bolted together. (page12)

Flat head 10-32 or 10-24

27 No 10 FH x .5 2 Steel
x 1/2" long
Flat head 10-32 or 10-24
28 No 10 FH x .75 2 Steel
x 3/4" long
Flathead 4-40 x 5/16"
29 No 4 FH x .313 1 Steel
long
30 No 4 nut 6 Steel 4-40 nut
4-40 x 1/2" long cap
No 4 x .5 cap
31 4 Steel screw, socket or Phillips
screw
head

No 4 x .75 cap 4-40 x 3/4" long cap The socket head is recommended for this screw because you may need a fair amount of torque to lock
32 1 Steel
screw screw, socket head the flywheel arm to the crankshaft. This is easier to apply with the socket head.
 10-32 or 10-24 nuts to I used 10-32 on the FH screws and 10-24 on the threaded rods. The coarse thread is easier when you
33 Nut 10-32 28 Steel match FH screws and are running a nut down 5 or more inches of threaded rod. The 10-32 grips tighter. You can use 10-24
threaded rods for everything and it should be fine.

Deburr ends and make sure the end that goes against the gasket is perfectly square to avoid leaks. Be
K&S Engineering 21/32"
very careful not to distort this tube out of round when clamping, cutting or epoxying to the Main
34 Power cylinder 1 Brass Tube dia x .014"wall x 2-1/4"
mounting tube. Before epoxying the tube in position make certain the piston skirt slides freely in the
long
power cylinder under its own weight.

Power piston Music wire K&S Engineering .047" You can use .062 music wire too. I chose .047 to save a little weight. Make sure to use music wire
35 1
rod shaft .047 dia x 4.5" long (spring steel) and not softer steel.

K&S Engineering 5/8" Deburr ends and make sure the piston top end is square. Be very careful not to distort this tube out of
Power piston
36 1 Brass Tube dia x .014" wall x 1" round when clamping and cutting. Oil or grease will greatly increase the friction of the piston sliding
skirt
long in the power cylinder. Keep it clean and dry.

Power piston
37 1 Aluminum 1/8" thick Make from 1/8" x 3/4" bar (page14)
top
38 Rod end 4 Aluminum 1/8" thick Make from 1/8" x 3/4" bar(page15)
10-24 or 10-32 threaded
39 Support Rod 4 Threaded rod Cut all four to the same length. Deburr the ends so that nuts will thread on easily.
rod, 10-1/4" long

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40 washer no 10 26 Steel #10 washer
Washer No 10 x #10 fender washer, 1.25"
41 4 Steel
1.25 fender OD
42 Washer No 4 1 Steel #4 washer

Music Wire K&S Engineering .062 Make sure the wrist pin is long enough that it cannot slide out of the wrist pin bearing tube when inside
43 Wrist Pin 1
.062 dia x 1/2" long the piston skirt.

Wrist pin K&S Engineering This tube was chosen as a good fit with the #4 washer. A slightly larger diameter tube could also be
44 1 Brass Tube
bearing tube 11/32"dia x 1/2" long used but not a smaller tube. (page16)
3.2.1 Brass Tubes

The power cylinder and piston skirt are critical items and
should not be substituted. When in a vertical position these two
brass tubes slide with very low friction while providing a
reasonably good seal. The K&S Engineering
(http://www.ksmetals.com/index.html) brass tubes are widely
available from hardware stores and hobby stores, or you can buy
them online (http://www.ksmetals.com/RetailLocations.html).

Note that all of the brass tubes called for in the BOM (bill-of-
materials) have a .014 wall thickness. K&S also makes tubes
with a .028 wall, those would not work. I would recommend that
you use the K&S brass tubes for all the tubes (five round tubes
and one square tube) although you may substitute solid
square aluminum for the square brass tube.

3.2.2 Music Wire

The BOM also calls out K&S Engineering music wire. Any
music wire of the correct diameter may be substituted. Music wire
is a high-strength spring steel and you should not substitute
other types of steel such as welding rod that have much lower
yield strength.

2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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3.2.3 Gasket Material

The gasket material needs to be reasonably soft and thick

enough to tolerate some unevenness in the cold plate, and ABS
coupling. Because it will see maximum pressures of less than one
PSI, soft material is not a problem. The WonderLiner solid shelf
and drawer liner is about 1/16" thick, and the best material I
have found so far for this application.

The WonderLiner solid shelf and drawer liner was available in my

local hardware store. It came in a 12 x 5 foot roll. Its available
online(http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/%28owmqdw554qugq
h45awjeqi55%29/LargeImage.aspx?SKU=6125116&Image=6125
116_20070611_jack.jpg&height=121) but you may have to shop
around for single rolls. Make sure to get the solid type.

3.2.4 Aluminum

The aluminum bar, angle, and square tube are extrusions

and should be adequate for this engine. If you have to make a
selection from an online merchant or other store opt for either
6061-T6 or 6063. The few small parts that require 1/16 flat
aluminum can be made from the wall of the 1x1x 1/16 wall
square tube. You should be able to find the aluminum at your
hardware store with the exception of the .25 x .5 bar. You
might have to cut this down from a .25 x 1 bar. You can also
buy these materials online and most will sell material by-the-foot,
some by-the-inch. Two suppliers Ive used are:

OnlineMetals.com
Speedy Metals - (http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8342-
aluminum.aspx)

3.2.5 Electrical Cover Plates

This design uses three 4 square electrical cover plates. One

is cut and filed into a disk for the hot plate. The plates are from
galvanized steel and about 1/16 thick. They were chosen for low
cost, availability and already cut to size with mounting holes. Use
the solid sheet type, not the ones that have a knockout for
conduit. If you dont know what these look like see the base in
the engine photo.

3.2.6 Collars

The 1/8 and 1/16 diameter collars are available from

hobby stores (that sells RC airplanes). Ive included the Du-bro
catalog numbers for a package that includes four collars and a
socket wrench for about $1. You need a 1/8 collar, you might
find another way to retain the 1/16 pin other than a collar.

2 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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3.2.7 Styrofoam & Balsa

To make the displacer you need some light, rigid material.

My engine initially used the foam sold at Home Depot as a
building insulation, you can also use various types of rigid foam
sold at craft and hobby stores, balsa wood works well too.

2.1.8 Epoxy

You need 5 minute epoxy, this epoxy mixes and sets

quickly so there is very little time waiting for the epoxy to cure. If
you need to release parts that have been epoxied together, you
can use a heat gun to soften the epoxy.
4.0 Assembly of the Stirling Motor Generator

You are almost done, you have the parabolic reflector dish
and the Stirling Motor ready to use.

I have explained that the Stirling motor needs heat to run,

so the main thing is positioning the motor in the focus area of the
parabolic reflector dish. This will make the Stirling Motor to
rotate. Now you have a dish with a Stirling motor that rotates by
the heat of the sun. All you need now is a DC power motor to
generate electricity.

For further in-depth analysis of the assembly, please consult the

Stirling Assembly guide.

3 SOLAR STIRLING PLANT

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4.1 DC Power Motor

Generally speaking, DC motors were designed to use power,

but when you turn the motor in the opposite direction, it will
generate electricity. It is the simplicity of the DC motor that
makes it ideal for building your own Stirling Generator system.

DC motors are found in a variety of small tools such as drills

and even VCRs. What you are looking for specifically is a surplus
permanent magnet DC motor. It is often possible to find used DC
motors in old power tools or you can search the Internet for deals
on DC motors as well. Ebay generally has a good selection and
you will need to purchase a DC motor that is the correct size for
your system. DC motors generally run between $30-$70.

When purchasing a DC motor, you will want to pay attention to

the RPMs, shaft size, amps and voltage. You are looking for low
RPMs, because when a DC motor is used as a generator (or the
motor is turned in the opposite direction to produce electricity),
the motor must spin much faster than the rated RPMs to produce
the proper voltage.

It would be ideal to find a motor rated under 400 RPMs at 30

volts, which when used as a generator will produce about 12 volts
of power when rotating at 200 RPMs. Your goal is to obtain a DC
motor with high voltage, high current and low RPMs.

- We suggest the following DC motors which are often available

online and on Ebay:

1150 RPM 38 VDC Ametek motor or Ametek 30 VDC motor

4.2 Battery Bank

Just as you needed with the solar energy system, a Stirling

Power Plant system requires deep cycle batteries as well. These
batteries will be used to store the energy generated by your
Stirling Engine. Batteries can be purchased new either locally or
online, or you can often find free batteries from area businesses
that utilize them such as golf carts and forklifts.

4.3 Charge Controller

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 A control charger prevents your battery bank from becoming
overloaded. Although not a necessary element, we strongly
suggest that you plan to use a charge controller in your wind
energy system.

4.4 Dump Load

A dump load is where all the extra power generated by your

system is directed. There are a variety of appliances that can be
used to catch dump loads and those with heating elements such
as hot water heaters are a great place to send your extra energy.
It is also possible to just send excess power to a ground wire.

4.5 AC Inverter

If you are using your Stirling Power electricity to power AC

appliances within the home, business or wherever, you are going
to need an AC inverter.

5.0 Maintenance

Now since your Solar Stirling Plant is complete it is time to

put it in use.
As you have already seen, there are various ways to integrate
you free energy source in to your system. The simplest system
and most logical is to use a single Solar Stirling Dish.

All you need to do is connect the Solar Stirling Plant to a charge

controller, and the charge controller to a battery. If you are
looking for a cheap charge controller I recommend you search
EBay, it will cost you around $20.

In order to clean the Solar Stirling Dish, you should use non-
abrasive cleaner and a soft towel. You should clean the Stirling
Engine once a year. For the parabolic dish it depends from region
to region. The environment you are in to determent how often
you will have to clean the dish, but in most cases it should be
done around once or twice a month. The amount of power a
single Dish will produce is determined by the amount of sun light
the dish will get. If your Parabolic Dish is dusty you will lose from
20 to 40 percent of the usual output power.

6.0 Future Improvements

In the future if you want to connect more Solar Stirling

Plants to your system all you need to do is connect them in
parallel.

For future improvements there will be an update of this

guide, it will be for improving the reflecting capacity of the dish.
The Dish will be made out of small mirrors instead of reflective
foil, this way it will be more effective in producing electrical
energy.

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