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LART DE LA JOAILLERIE DEPUIS 1780
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CONTENTS JUNE 2016
Features
66 Venice Scope out fresh angles on the city
by living like a local in your own canal-side crashpad
A bedroom in the private home of interior designer Tino Zervudachi on the Greek island of Hydra
30
39
In this issue
10 Editors letter 118 Around the world with
X-Men star Rose Byrne
12 Contributors
120 In Britain Fond of sand dunes
17 Word of mouth The places and salty air? Quaint little villages
and people creating a stir around the here and there? Then make for
world, from Cornwall to Croatia the wild and shingly Sufolk Coast
PHOTOGRAPHS: KETIL JACOBSEN; BOBBI LIN; OLIVER PILCHER ON THE COVER: ART PARTNER LICENSING
music mogul Chris Blackwell City churros joint. World on a plate
Tempura. Chefs secret supplies
30 Snapshot Viewpoints from Jason Atherton. Eat the street Paris.
high-minded architects Taste buzz Hawaiian pok.
How to barbecue Southern-style
32 The great European
escape Move over Barcelona: 152 Room with a view
Mallorcas capital Palma is the freshest Villa Tre Ville, Positano, Italy
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EDITORS LETTER
Im mad about paris. Who knew? All those Paris clichs: the leaden rooftops,
the shining tower, the restaurants spilling out on the streets, the people having
sex in the window. They are all joyful. London is piffle compared to Paris, a brute,
a fist. Paris is as light as tulle, twirly and twinkly. And I hate the word twinkly! But
I cant help myself! Because it feels like, suddenly, after 20 years of completely flipping
hating the place, Ive fallen truly madly and deeply in love with it.
Why was I so dismissive of the city before? It wasnt Pariss fault. I had an
English boyfriend who lived here for a year in the eaves of a wonderful apartment
overlooking the Jardin des Tuileries. The problem was he also had a flatmate with
beautiful Rapunzel hair and an obsession with Brad Pitt. All day in the blasted
apartment we would talk about where Brad Pitt might be that night. Les Bains
Douches? Le Priv? Her hair was so sensational that we were compelled to have this conversation all day every
day because it did, in fact, seem entirely conceivable that if their paths were to cross, one look at her locks
and Brad would be in the bag. One weekend, however, in a desperate bid to move the conversation on, I flew
out to Paris in a new outfit. At the time it seemed like a good idea. Sitting on the light-dappled pavement in front
of the Caf de Flore, drinking espressos, it was plain for us all to see that a tight brown ribbed long-sleeved
polyester-mix minidress from Afflecks Palace in Manchester wasnt the thing.
But who cares? For 20 long years I may have associated Paris with an itching and scratching bordering on
a profound psychic discomfort, but now I am in love! I am taking photo after photo from my rooftop eyrie to
catch the view at its best angle, I am sploshing about in baths in the middle of the day, pouring in bubbles,
laughing gaily. I am wondering if I can move here and write books and call Paris funny nicknames. Just Paris!
The name itself is a light that goes on in my fingertips.
I am so happy, and so springy, that Im trying to stuff my great-niece into a Chanel pochette bag. My niece
is here for the weekend with her two babies and theyve come for tea. While my niece washes the elder one
in the bath I grab the tiny one she really is fantastically diddy to see how many things in the room I can fit
her into. A computer bag, easy-peasy. A shoebox, no sweat. The Chanel pochette was our undoing. It turns
out you can only truss up a baby so much.
Oh well. Later that night, high on Paris life, I see a taxi outside the hotel and grab it to go to dinner.
The streets are looking particularly beautiful, the parks resplendent. Hey, says the taxi driver. Is this trip
wait and return? No, I say breezily. Ill be there for dinner. So I may be some time. If I had known
that, I would not have accepted this fare, he says. I stare at him. I never said it was wait and return, so you did
know this. And if you didnt want to accept this fare, you should have refused before I got in your cab. He
pauses. There are Mtro stations where you are going. You should have taken the Mtro. Paris is a big place, its
got an airport. I dont know whether to stop and let you out now. I dont want to go to your destination any
more. Or, maybe you will have to give me a big tip.
Stop the car! Stop the car! I shout, I am getting out! I am getting out because you are a little creep. Im not
going to give you a big tip! But Im not going to let you ruin Paris either! Stop the flipping car!
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who wont let the behaviour of one scheming little
bastard get in the way of their feelings for their true love.
Melinda Stevens
Editor
MelindaLP
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ATTACHED
Six years ago Gorillaz the animated music project from Blur frontman
Damon Albarn became the rst big Western act to play Syria when they
performed at the 11th-century Damascus Citadel. The band were joined on
stage by Bobby Womack, The Clashs Mick Jones and musicians from the
Syrian National Orchestra, led by conductor Issam Rafea, who had added their
Arabic arrangements to the Gorillaz track White Flag. Many of those musicians
have since had to ee the country due to the conict, but this summer are
reunited with Albarn in London. Were so used to seeing Syria through the
prism of the news, he says. This concert will give a completely diferent
perspective. Its truly miraculous the sound they create. The Orchestra of
Syrian Musicians with Damon Albarn and guests play Londons Southbank
Centre on 25 June as part of 14-18 NOW. For details visit africaexpress.co.uk
FUN TIMES
A summer-long private-island party in Croatia
is taking the festival concept to the next level
Boutique festivals are now a xture of our summers. But why settle
for a weekend of wellies and warm cider when you can be transported
to the tiny olive- and pine-tree-blanketed Croatian island of Otok
Obonjan, where an entirely new kind of experience pops up this year?
The festival will take over this 55-hectare private island with an eclectic
two-month programme thats a bit Wilderness, a bit Port Eliot.
From 18 July to 10 September, acts including DJ Shadow will play
at the stone amphitheatre overlooking the Adriatic, while at the
Geodome designed by the team behind the Eden Project there will
be workshops on a mind-broadening array of subjects from experts
including maths whizz professor Marcus du Sautoy and sustainability
innovator Rachel Armstrong. Elsewhere, theres an underwater
sculpture garden, an island cinema and a woodland wellbeing centre.
The whole place has been decked out with safari-style tents, breezy
beach clubs, late-night rum bars and restaurants dishing up everything
from just-caught seafood to organic pizza. Festivals do a good job
of keeping people happy for a few days, but this is much more, says
Dan Blackledge, one of Obonjans founders. We want to encourage
a real sense of community people can stay as long as they like and
do as little or as much as they want, but ultimately leave feeling
enriched. otokobonjan.com. Safari tents (sleep two) from about 60
per person per night, including live music, talks, performances and
return boat transfers from Sibenik AOIFE ORIORDAIN
PHOTOGRAPHS: KRIS MACCOTTA; DAN MEDHURST; LINKA A ODOM/IMAGEBRIEF.COM; MATTHEW OLIVER; SHUTTERSTOCK; GUS WEBSTER
CORNWALL DEVON
In St Ives the owners of Trevose All eyes on the tiny village
Harbour House have just unveiled of Gittisham near Honiton,
SANDS STUDIO (left), a one-bedroom where Robin Hutson launches
apartment with mid-century furniture his latest PIG HOTEL (above
and Porthgwidden Beach views (bottom and right) in July. The 27 rooms
left). Over in Fowey, THE OLD QUAY are spread between the main
HOUSE HOTEL has had a jaunty STAY Georgian building, former stable
overhaul by Brocante, one of the harbour blocks and two thatched
towns loveliest interior shops. Further longhouses. Theres an old folly in the
inland, Bodmins rustic ST TUDY INN 3,500-acre grounds, where you can puf
(top and bottom) will open its on a cigar, and, of course, a kitchen garden
bedrooms later this summer. for the Pigs signature 25-mile menu.
Rick and Jill Stein are busy this Devon is also on the gin at
month launching RUBYS, a bar SALCOMBE GIN DISTILLERY,
with a large gin collection next which washes up in July and will
door to their St Petrocs Hotel in have a tasting bar on a former
Padstow, and STEINS FISHERIES EAT boat-repair site in the town. Stop
AND SEAFOOD BAR (left) on by the village of Dartington, where
the harbour. The foodie scene is & the ALMOND THIEF (a pop-up
simmering in Penzance too, thanks bakery at Riverford Farm Shop)
to local stars Ben Tunniclife, the DRINK is now selling some of the best
man behind the TOLCARNE INN, and Bruce bread around at a tucked-away
Rennie, who set up THE SHORE here last year. caf on an industrial estate.
For hardy outdoor swimming, visit Penzances Health-kickers should head to holistic
pretty seaside JUBILEE POOL, which reopens this hideaway YEOTOWN, where ve eco
rooms have just been built out of straw
month after a major ret. In-the-know surfers are
heading out of Bude to less crowded Widemouth
DO bales and hemp. For family thrills, check
Bay, a low-key spot that now has a groovy out Devons biggest rollercoaster BIG
waterfront bar aptly named BEACH HOUSE (left). SHEEP THEME PARK (right) in Bideford.
POLDARK will reacquaint TV viewers with the north Living Architectures SECULAR RETREAT,
Cornish coast when it returns in autumn, while the revamped a hilltop haven sleeping 10, will be taking
bookings for the end of 2016. Its close to
TATE ST IVES will switch the focus south-west again when
its extension, sunk into the hillside so as not to compromise
ONES Salcombe, where TIDES REACH HOTEL
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID GRIFFEN; CARMODY
(up the road from sibling Harbour Hotel) is preparing for a 2017
sea views from above, opens in March 2017. And the rst
TO
GROARKE; IAN KINGSNORTH/IMAGBRIEF.
hotel at the EDEN PROJECT will set a new benchmark in refresh. Also next year, BURGH ISLAND HOTEL has plans for
COM; DANIEL SCOTT; SHUTTERSTOCK
eco design when it opens next year. WATCH a modern suite built across two clifs (below), and chef Michael
Caines, whose dishes, including his famous strawberry mousse
(above right), won Gidleigh Park two Michelin stars, is working
on his rst hotel in Lympstone. EMILY MATHIESON
making waves
Amid the grandes dames that have
settled along Lake Como, a sleek
new breed of hotel is on the rise
Lake Como is not known for its cutting edge. True, there
are eruptions of modernism around its waters among them
Giuseppe Terragnis 1930s Casa del Fascio but when it
comes to places to stay, antique opulence reigns. However,
a pair of newcomers on the Como town prong of this wishbone-
shaped lake are challenging the paradigm. Opening this summer
is 30-room Il Sereno, a sister venture to the Christian Liaigre-
designed Le Sereno in St Barths. This striking transparent
box has been conjured up by Spanish architect Patricia
Urquiola only the second time shes worked on a hotel (the
rst, her crisp, light-lled designs for the Mandarin Oriental
Barcelona). Outside, along 140 metres of prime waterfront, is a
20-metre innity pool surrounded by gardens laid out by Patrick
Blanc, famed for his green walls (there are two here), and a
restaurant from Alex Simone of Londons Il Baretto. And yet the
trailblazer of this new scene was Filario, a 22-room conversion
of a former wire factory that launched last year a few miles
away. With muted modern interiors by Alessandro Agrati
of lifestyle brand Culti, this is the rst Design Hotel on any of
the Italian lakes. But the eastern shores original champion,
CastaDiva, is not resting on its laurels. This summer, Gennaro
Esposito known for convention-challenging combos such as
pasta and raw seafood comes on board as executive chef.
Meanwhile, on the lesser-visited Lecco side
of the lake, nine-suite Villa Lario is also causing
a stir, taking a traditional villa and giving it a
series of contemporary tweaks. ilsereno.com;
lario.it; castadivaresort.com; villalario
resortmandello.com LEE MARSHALL
FRAME OF MIND
He has won a BAFTA for his writing, but now William
Dalrymple has swapped his pen for a smart phone
In his acclaimed books (nine of them, spanning the Middle East, India and
Central Asia), author and historian William Dalrymple conjures up vivid
images of ancient kingdoms and colourful portraits of village life. But his
black-and-white photographs a collection of which is published this month,
drawing on his travels from Scotland to Leh have a moodier tone. They
come from diferent places, he says. With writing you reect on ideas; its
an intellectual process. When you see a beautiful landscape, its an intuitive
emotional response to whats in front of you. For Dalrymple, his interest in
photography actually came rst, shooting on his beloved Contax 35mm SLR,
inspired by Don McCullin and Bill Brandt. But it was a smart phone that led
him recently to rediscover that passion and on which he took these intriguing
pictures. I now have an excellent little camera permanently in my back
pocket. The Writers Eye (HarperCollins, 14.99) is out now. An exhibition
of the photographs opens at Londons Grosvenor Gallery on 23 June
The worlds rst airport gin distillery is open at the Nicholas Culpeper in London The EU referendum takes place on 23 June. But could Brexit mean increased
Gatwick, whipping up the spirit in a copper still. Grab a craft G&T before you y. holiday costs and fewer ights to Europe, as ABTA predicts?
BRIT ROCK ELBOW DUELS
Festivals abroad might have the sun, but this months Coldplay/Muse/Adele A bill has been proposed in the USA forcing airlines to increase their
triumvirate at Glastonbury makes a good case for digging out the wellies. minimum seat width (currently just 16.5in). An end to middle-seat misery?
WILD POP-UPS DIY PICNICS
Forget cocktail bars in shipping containers now you can stay in Tanzanias Try Scottish company Forest Holidays Picnic Butler, who leads guests on nature
Roving Bushtops: Transformer-like safari tents that fold out from boxes on wheels. trails, before serving a slap-up spread on a tartan rug. SARAH ILSTON
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WILD WORLD
He made stars out of Bob Marley and Grace Jones, and is behind
the barefoot Jamaican hotels where the jet set come to tune out.
Now Chris Blackwell has opened the gates of his private estate
By Ondine Cohane. Photographs by Julien Capmeil
Clockwise from this picture:
organic produce from Chris
Blackwells Pantrepant estate;
Blackwell outside Ian Flemings
villa, GoldenEye; lunch on
the veranda at Pantrepant;
curried lamb and garlic okra.
Opposite, Blackwells
own house at Pantrepant
M
by stars until finally I see the glow of a guesthouse
around the corner. A perfect roast chicken with
mashed potatoes and a plate of steamed callaloo
awaits, served alongside a glass of cold white wine in
a cosy kitchen. And then its time for bed.
The next morning Im woken up by birdcall, and as I sit on the
veranda with a coffee, hummingbirds flit by. My only companion
is a large iguana with a bright-blue crest. On the Pantrepant estate
there are 2,500 acres of farmland, rainforest and the majestic
Martha Brae River; my closest neighbours are herds of burnished-
mahogany cattle and doe-eyed, white Brahman bulls. The trees are
monumental and varied: pineapple, breadfruit, lychee, West Indian
cherry, black banana, coconut and cashew. The background lowing
of the cows and gentle hum of cicadas are all that break the silence.
Perhaps it makes sense that this is where Chris Blackwell
would choose to retreat after a noisy career in the music industry.
Thirty miles inland from Montego Bay, its the antithesis of
everything slick, packaged and crowded. He bought this former
cattle farm about 25 years ago, just after selling Island Records,
at the time one of the worlds largest independent labels, to
Polygram for 207 million. I was looking for a house by a river,
he says. I was taken to a 17th-century property that was beautiful,
but way too big. So they brought me to this farm with a busha
(plantation manager) house, which was dwarfed by the largest tree
I had ever seen. I bought the tree really.
In many ways Blackwell has been a key player in putting
Jamaica in the spotlight. After selling ska singles from the
viewpoints
Architects are looking up and
out for a take on a trend that
bends the laws of physics
Top row, from left: the steel mountain-top
platform cantilevers nine metres over
a ridge on Mount Isidor in Austria; a
mirrored lookout point creates shifting
reections that help this structure blend
into its surroundings on Scotlands Loch
Voil; when visitors step inside the Wind
Tower on the Lincolnshire coast, the inner
chamber tilts forward so the nearby sea
becomes visible; made from Corten steel,
the Cubes Viewpoint overlooks the
PHOTOGRAPHS: PASO AALTO/PASOAALTO.COM; PAU ARDEVOL; IWAN BAAN; LAAC ARCHITECTS; ROSS CAMPBELL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; MSA/GRUFF;
Mediterranean Sea in Cadaqus, Spain;
solid wooden beams are suspended from
KETIL JACOBSEN; ROBERT LEMERMEYER; JAMES MORLEY; JAKUB SKOKAN, MARTIN TUMA/BOYS PLAY NICE GENERAL DESIGNER TAROS NOVA
the ceiling like swings to provide seating
in a timber cabin, framing sand dunes
and windswept grass in Farsund, Norway.
Clockwise, from top left: Portixol hotel; Frida Watson furniture shop;
Sant Francesc Hotel Singular; Viveca antiques shop; terrace at
Purobeach club; a room at Sant Francesc. Previous pages, from left:
vintage homeware at Viveca; sea views from Purobeach club
THE MARKET STALLS NOW DELIVER brings in the money, and the island is small enough that people
hear about us by word of mouth.
TO YOUR YACHT, WHICH SHOWS In a similar way, word is spreading about the Mallorcan art
HOW MUCH PALMA HAS CHANGED scene. Its greatest legacy is the Pilar and Joan Mir Foundation
(the Catalan artist spent the last years of his life in Palma and
elegant 19th-century mansion, has a sophisticated and grown-up left his studio and unfinished works for visitors to see), which
feel, with its tonal taupe colour palette. It has what is surely a stays relevant with its residency programme. Sound artist Susan
contender for the biggest and best rooftop terrace in the city, Philipsz created a piece here before she won the Turner Prize
and a pool in the shadow of the beautiful looming basilica. in 2010. But its also attracting international collectors, including
Exploring the warren of narrow backstreets and cobbled Anita Zabludowicz, Manuela Wirth and Ursula Hauser, who
squares unearths shoebox-size delicatessens with ensaimadas come for annual events Art Palma Brunch, Palma Photo and
(a traditional coil-shaped cake) in boxes tied up with string, and Nit de lArt, where galleries stay open until midnight.
Mimbreria Vidal, a shop stuffed to the rafters with raffia baskets. Theres also Es Baluard Museum of Modern and Contemporary
I deliberate over a jumpsuit by Spanish designer Sita Murt and Art; installations at a medieval merchant-guild hall Sa Llotja; the
pretty seagull-print dresses from Barcelona-based Medwinds. Museu Fundacin Juan March, which has a permanent collection
The city is often compared to Barcelona, and its easy to see of works by 20th-century Spanish vanguard artists, and a
why, with its Gaud-like, Art Nouveau buildings, restaurants with handful of high-profile galleries such as La Caja Blanca, founded
PHOTOGRAPHS: SANDRA CHRISTIANSEN; EMILIO LOPEZ
modern riffs on tapas and a mini Rambla full of florist stands. by sibling duo Eva and Amir Shakouri-Torreadrado. The art
My favourite find is Viveca, an interiors shop in an alley of scene is growing here, which is quite curious, says Eva, who has
converted garages near Gerhardt Braun Gallery. The owners worked on projects with Irish artist Richard Mosse. It was quite
are 20-something sisters Carla and Camila Gell, who moved insular for many years, but now its opening up to the world. It
to Mallorca from Madrid four years ago. Inside are Kantha doesnt boast about what it has though; people just eventually
quilts folded over bamboo ladders, one-off artworks made by discover it. Which is exactly what can be said about Palma.
their father from discarded wood, and second-hand Danish
chairs. Its impossible to start something like this in Barcelona
GETTING HERE
or Madrid because its too pricey, says Camila. Its too British Airways (ba.com) ies from Heathrow to Palma nine times
expensive to even pay the rent, adds Carla. Here, tourism a week from 95 one way. Portixol hotel (portixol.com) has doubles
from about 170. Hotel Cort (hotelcort.com) has doubles from
Above right, a room at Hotel Cort. Opposite, clockwise from top left: about 130. Hotel Sant Francesc Singular (hotelsantfrancesc.com)
salmon sashimi at Bunkers; Markers installation by Carlos Marca at has doubles from about 225
Gerhardt Braun Gallery; retro furniture at Frida Watson; Hotel Cort
GRAND CAYMAN
3 of lifes
little luxuries
ca ymanislands.co.uk
community a 40-minute drive away. Soaking in the mineral-rich water that off-menu at a ryokan will know the
The women who received me there are arrives on command with the twist answer: very sorry. Not possible.
known as ama elderly female divers of a tap, I reflected on the mornings Of course, at an Aman, things should
with well-trained lungs, who scavenge strange interlude. Fascinating, beautiful always be possible. So, like the newly
the seabed for crustaceans and shellfish, and a little bit crazy, the experience planted trees and shrubs that covered
including pearl oysters. When theyre seemed to me to be everything that the ground when I visited the hotel
not diving, the ama cook their catch makes Japan unique. when it opened, it will be interesting
clams, scallops, lobster and abalone for Amanemu is attempting to sandpaper to see what this transplanted sapling
passers-by in wooden huts along the off those grittier edges and become a grows into. The property is a collection
IT FEELS LIKE BEING HUGGED BY A TREE: A BIT HARD, BUT STILL COMFORTING
Five minutes by golf buggy is the spa, Japanese garden linking the front desk, So, how does Amanemu fit into the
with its treatment rooms, a gym, yoga library, bar and restaurant. rapidly expanding landscape of places
studio and watsu pool for water-based The latter is the hotels most beautiful to stay in Japan? If the grand ryokans
therapies. The centrepiece, however, is the space, with a ceiling that suggests of Kyoto are the challenging peaks,
onsen, which is elemental to any Japanese two hands coming together in prayer, Amanemu is closer to familiar ground.
hotel stay. It normally entails sitting reminiscent of the gesture the Japanese The view you get of this extraordinary
naked in a large rock bath with strangers, make before each meal. In a masterstroke, country will be quite different, but youll
slowly boiling yourself into a mild coma. Amanemu recruited chef Masanobu be enchanted nonetheless.
But Amanemus interpretation of the Inaba from the Conrad Tokyo to head
tradition is far more exciting, with terraces its kitchen. Inabas version of kaiseki AMANEMU (+44 800 2255
of tiled hot springs (diluted to keep the cooking formal dining that can feel 2626; AMAN.COM/RESORTS/
temperature manageable) interspersed fussy and never-ending is modern and AMANEMU). DOUBLES FROM
with day beds, lounging pavilions and an punchy. Portion sizes are larger; the ABOUT 685
WHERE TO STAY
SUNSET MARQUIS
LOS ANGELES
I was chatting to the music producer
I FORGOT MY BAG Skrillex and he told me I had to try
this hotel next time I was in LA. He
ON A TRIP TO LA, was right. All the villas are cool, but,
BUT THE ACE HOTEL really, the one to book is the Grand
MADE IT ALL BETTER Deluxe, which has a huge piano in it.
sunsetmarquis.com. Doubles from
about 240
BRIGHT SPARK
150
MAISON JALON, PUYRICARD
The tiny village of Puyricard lies less than 10km north of cosmopolitan Aix-en-Provence. It still looks much as it did centuries ago, with twisty lanes
shaded by umbrella pines and old-timers playing cards in the caf, looking for all the world like theyve stepped out of a Czanne painting. Its here
that Laetitia and Dimitri Jalon, former owners of an interior-design shop in Marrakech, decided to build their home a sleek, low-slung, modern
rectangle in grey concrete, hidden away at the end of a narrow bumpy road and then open it up to guests. Upstairs, there are four cheerful bedrooms,
each with a capacious south-facing terrace. But the real charm lies in the Wes Anderson lm-set vibe and jumble of colours: retro rose, pistachio,
tangerine orange, buttercup yellow and turquoise. The couples choice of vintage wallpaper, naive artworks and hand-woven blankets from Thailand
and Mexico, ofset by simple mid-century-modern furniture, works beautifully. There are no mini-bars, but guests are free to forage in the pink
Fifties-style fridge at the end of the corridor, or make a cup of tea in the sunny kitchen where hearty breakfasts of chunky country bread slathered
in thick lavender honey and Laetitias homemade organic yogurt are served. Laze by the pool or in a hammock, then venture out to nearby Chteau
La Coste, a vineyard, shop and Tadao Ando-designed art centre with walking trails. maisonjalon.com. Doubles from about 75 LG
HISTORY MASTER
COMMANDERIE DE PEYRASSOL,
FLASSANS-SUR-ISSOLE
Hidden away in the countryside roughly an hours drive from 150
Nice, this 950-acre estate has been a hotspot on a sacred
pilgrimage trail since the 13th century, when the Knights Templar
arrived, built a chapel and called it home. Then along came the Knights
of Malta, followed by vintners and silkworm breeders, and more recently
the Brussels-based entrepreneur and art lover Philippe Austruy and
his gallery-owner wife Valrie Bach. In parts, this place is still a wild
sprawl of forests and olive groves, but its vineyard also produces seriously
good wines. They have also created a remarkable contemporary-
sculpture park and gallery, along with the 10 new guest rooms. The
rustic stone manor has ve country-style bedrooms with a variety of
antiques, exposed-beam ceilings and terracotta-tiled oors. Theres also
a lovely ve-bedroom hunting lodge out in the woods, although the
profusion of bear-skin rugs and mounted mouon-sheep heads may
not appeal to the tender-hearted. Supper is at the table dhte, where
chef Guillaume Delaune creates superb dishes such as braised lamb
with olives, Provenal beef stew, and nougat ice cream with honey, all
washed down with a glass of the domaines best-selling fruity ros.
peyrassol.com. Doubles from about 105 LG
DISCREET DIGS
HOTEL DE TOURREL, SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE
Walking past the creamy faade of this gorgeously restored 17th-century htel particulier the former home of the illustrious de Tourrel dAlmeran family
youd never guess there was a super-stylish place to stay behind the unmarked walnut door. Its no accident: German owners Ralph Huesgen and architect
Margot Staengle like to keep things low-prole for their smart, international guests. There are seven bedrooms of varying sizes, each a mix of ornate Renaissance
mouldings, furniture from the 1920s and 1930s, hand-sewn cotton sheets, exposed stone walls and 10-foot-high ceilings. Fans of the brilliant Irish designer
Eileen Gray will swoon at the sight of sunlit Suite Two, packed with her creations: a green velvet Bibendum chair, a geometric patterned rug and a black-and-
white Lota sofa. After cocktails and tapas by the pool on the rooftop terrace, slip downstairs to the restaurant for rened Provenal dishes such as steamed,
rosemary-infused monksh or slow-cooked beef with polenta. The hotels adjacent wine shop and tasting room stocks more than 350 bottles, and a few
steps away is the Muse des Alpilles, with its odd yet beguiling collection of domestic and agricultural artefacts. detourrel.com. Doubles from about 195 LG
ARTY PARTY
CASTEL PIERRE LISSE, HYERES
Almost a century ago when the novelist Edith Wharton was in
the process of renovating her medieval Chteau Sainte-Claire 150
in palm-lined Hyres, she decamped to this pretty, 19th-century
mansion, which she used as a guest house for her literary pals.
The impressive mini-castle was recently restored and opened as an
unpretentious but imaginative ve-bedroom B&B. Climb upstairs to the
sitting room and step out onto the sprawling terrace to take in views
to the islands of Porquerolles and Port-Cros, bathed in a silvery haze.
Owner Nicolas Broche, a passionate art and furniture collector, has
lled every nook and cranny with a mix of vintage nds and paintings,
including works by di Rosa, Boiron and Jasper Johns, and pieces by
Eames, Le Corbusier, Robin Day and Castiglioni. Rooms are named
after precious stones and painted in a warm yellow ochre, all with
PHOTOGRAPH: BRUNO SUET
WHY STAY? For a happy combination BEHIND THE SCENES This is the
of relaxed style and good, honest food. first joint venture from husband and wife
And for the sense of revival this newly Charlie and Willow Crossley. Hes a
revamped pub is bringing to a little-visited former owner of the Hollywood Arms
but prodigiously pretty Cotswold town. in Chelsea; shes a floral artist by way
of fashion college and Tatler magazine.
WHY NOW? For early-summer walks Willow makes the striking flower creations
straight from the doorstep. Stride out on a and dreams up the interiors; Charlie runs
five-mile circuit taking in Shorthampton the show and is front of house. Inspired,
PHOTOGRAPHS: JON HARPER; JAMES McNAUGHT
church and its medieval wall paintings, in part, by the success of nearby Soho
then chill out on the Bulls terrace. Farmhouse, which is bringing a new crowd
to the Cotswolds, the Crossleys have
WHAT IS IT? A 16th-century inn that plans to renovate other pubs in the area.
buzzes with locals on most evenings (come OUT AND ABOUT
after 8pm on a Tuesday and youll find the SLEEP The four bedrooms above the The Daylesford mothership deli, above, and
village bridge club in situ). On one side of bar and restaurant are carefully crafted spa are a 20-minute drive away, as is lovely
Swinbrook, where the Mitford sisters lived.
the cosy-chic space theres informal dining with hessian-covered floors and vintage,
Hop over in the other direction to Blenheim
in the bar and snoozy armchairs around painted wood furniture. Rooms One and
Palace for this years Capability Brown
an exposed-stone fireplace; on the other, a Four are in cocooning shades of deep blue tercentenary commemorations. Don your
darker, more formal restaurant uplifted by and green; sunny rooms Two and Three wellies for a walk on the Oxfordshire Way.
Turkish rugs and kilim-patterned cushions. are done out in pale colours and have
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THE ULTIMATE
DESTINATION CALENDAR
WHERE TO GO WHEN: AN ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE
BEST PLACES TO VISIT EVERY MONTH OF THE YEAR
TAKE IT AWAY
The great conundrum at the centre of the fashion project is always how to juggle the
need for both continuity and change. How to stay true to your heritage when you
are compelled by the diktats of the catwalk caravan to completely reinvent yourself
every six months. The answer, increasingly, is intervention. Take Louis Vuitton luggage.
Instantly recognisable, its magic monogram has forever been opulences unoicial
emblem. Dispensing with it would be unthinkable. But intervening isnt, and such is
Vuittons condence and clout it regularly invites fashion hotshots to keep its icon
up-to-date, imbued afresh with the spirit of their times. And thats exactly what
creative director Marc Jacobs did in 2001 when he commissioned Stephen Sprouse
to scrawl graiti on suitcases. It felt sacrilegious but also of-the-moment: fashion
nally succumbing to the melding of culture, high and low. The house achieved
similar geistiness in 2008, when artist Takashi Murakami made the famous print go
incognito behind a camo. Then in 2014, six design stars, including architect
Frank Gehry and Karl Lagerfeld, the kingpin at rivals Chanel and Fendi, re-imagined the
LV logo. And now Vuittons done it again with its Tropical Journey capsule. All palm
prints and red confetti, this is light-hearted luggage, sun-kissed and celebratory.
Tropical Journey Monogram Jungle Keepall 50, 1,450; Pegase Leg 55, 2,250,
both Louis Vuitton (louisvuitton.co.uk). Photographed by Andrew Yee at
LHorizon Resort & Spa (lhorizonpalmsprings.com)
WE PRESENT TO YOU
PIPPA HOLT
The Dublin-based, Melbourne-born stylist turned designer is a pro
at staying cool in the sun. Here she shares her summer hits
Abysse; it has fringing along the arms and is short walk from the wonderful Convento
the coolest thing. It makes me want to go di Santa Maria di Costantinopoli hotel and
boogie boarding again, something I did a lot is a treasure trove of ethnic and vintage nds
when I was younger. And Ive got my eye on that owner Deborah Nolan has collected
an ARossGirl X Adriana Santiago hat, made in from all over the world. Coqui Coqui in Tulum
Guatemala. In my opinion, Australian brands sells the best orange-blossom perfume and
do the best swimwear. My children wear Seed the nicest-smelling insect repellent. Be warned:
Heritage and Country Road, and when I go dont shop at Luisa Beach in Mykonos after
back home I stock up on Zimmermann, a long lunch dancing on the tables at next-
Ephemera and Matteau. This season Im door Nammos restaurant (its all too tempting!).
coveting Joseph Altuzarras green tie-dye dress, The store has a fun selection of designer
PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW YEE
Aurlie Bidermanns colourful cowrie-shell pieces, including Maison Michel sun hats and
necklaces, and Chlos striped sandals and K Jacques sandals. And the excellent boutique
diaphanous gowns. Id also love a Tory Sport at Trasierra hotel in Andaluca is lled with
tracksuit to wear on the plane when travelling local baskets and bedspreads.
to Mexico for production meetings.
Where are your favourite markets?
The best boutiques youve found? Tangiers medina is particularly good for slippers,
Tulsi is hidden down an alley in the small and on Saturdays the ea market next to the
town of Marittima in southern Puglia. Its a bullring in Marbella has pretty espadrilles. There
From left: Bird of Paradise bikini, 200, Fendi (matchesfashion.com). Reversible print bikini, 255, Etro (net-a-porter.com). Tropical Apulia top, 68;
bottoms, 71, both Sapia Kang (myluxboutique.co.uk). Belize-print top, 90; Zuma bottoms, 70, both Mikoh (net-a-porter.com). Kaleidoscope
triangle top, 61; bottoms, 60, both Clover Canyon (shopbop.com). Spectra bandeau top, 90; bottoms, 85, both Asceno (asceno.com)
STYLE FILE
Do you sunbathe?
Yes, but I always wear good
sunscreen; if I dont, my skin
burns and becomes very dry. I use my
brands Nuance Oil-Free Sheer Liquid Veil
SPF50 on my face because it doesnt leave
white streaks and isnt too greasy. For the
body, I apply a Sisley SPF30 sun cream.
SALMA HAYEK
The Mexican actress who once directed a music video for Prince reveals her secrets to Tabitha Joyce
What is your biggest indulgence? What make-up do you What colour do you paint
One thing Ive learned is to never go keep in your hand luggage? your nails?
on vacation without a good cook. If Im going for a natural look, I stick to natural shades for my
I enjoy drinking nice wine and I also I use Guccis Opulent Volume hands so that if they chip it doesnt
love kombucha. My all-time favourite Mascara in Iconic Black. For show, but my toes are always red.
restaurant is Pujol the chef Enrique something more dramatic, I wear I use chemical-free polishes so my
Olvera makes the best food in Mexico Cliniques High-Impact Extreme- daughter can also wear them.
City. If youre ever in town you must go. Volume Mascara. I always pack
a lipstick by Charlotte Tilbury or How do you look after
Which fragrance do you NARS. And if Im feeling pufy your skin on a ight?
take away with you? after a long ight, a contour I keep my face as clean and
Ive been wearing Bottega blush is great for helping my moisturised as possible. Nuance
PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN HUBA/ART + COMMERCE
Venetas eau de parfum for face look thinner. AM/PM Anti-Aging Super Cream makes
years. Its fresh, but also has a big diference to my skin when
a hint of sensuality. Every What is your number-one travelling. Ill also pack a Sisley
now and again I experiment beauty-travel advice? face mask. And hibiscus tea helps
with other perfumes, such Coconut water. It keeps you hydrated and with water retention.
as Narciso Rodriguez For Her. is full of potassium. And take some protein
Or Ill create my own scent shakes; if you nd youre eating too much, Salma Hayek stars in Tale of Tales,
by mixing essential oils. you can substitute a meal with one. which is in cinemas on 17 June
From top: Oil-Free Sheer Liquid Veil SPF50, about 7, Nuance Salma Hayek (cvs.com). Milky Body Mist SPF30, 83, Sisley (sisley-paris.co.uk). Bottega Veneta eau
de parfum, 68, Bottega Veneta (harrods.com). Opulent Volume Mascara, 27, Gucci (gucci.com). Matte Revolution Lipstick in Love Liberty, 23, Charlotte Tilbury
(charlottetilbury.com). Black-Rose Cream Mask, 95.50, Sisley (as before). AM/PM Anti-Aging Super Cream, about 14, Nuance Salma Hayek (as before)
LIKE
NOTHI NG
ELSE
Cotton linens, cotton curtains, cotton artwork
and even a seven-story spiral staircase made
to evoke the spinning of cotton. From the mind
of Lzaro Rosa-Violn, the Cotton House Hotel
is a one of a kind experience you can only find
in the Autograph Collection. Gracias, Lzaro!
L Z A R O R O S A -V I O L N I N T E R IOR DE S IG N E R
STYLE FILE
Necklace in blackened
white gold with black
diamonds, 1,975, from
Mosaic ring in yellow
the Izel collection by
gold, onyx and
Lito (as before)
mother-of-pearl, 1,507,
Kamushki (kamushki-
jewellery.com).
FOR GLAMPING
Ive lost count of the
number of times Ive rocked
up to my camper van or
navigated my way to the
main stage at a festival and
my bullet-proof blow-dry
has collapsed. This was
before I made friends with
Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo.
Giving at hair oomph, it
absorbs excess oil and has a
UV lter (in case youre
heading to Burning Man
rather than Glastonbury
this year). Theres a spray
for blondes that has a
FOR HOT ZONES purple tinge to tone down
brassiness, and one for
My sister-in-law Jennifer darker shades with an
has glorious corkscrew curls. ultra-ne, rice-bran powder
But she lives in fear of those that doesnt leave behind
sweltering seaside cities Rio, that telltale chalky residue.
Sydney, Miami, Dubai where 14.85; moroccanoil.co.uk
you have to hop from beach
to bar and not look like youve
been dragged through a hedge
backwards. So Ive lent her my
Krastase Discipline Curl
Ideal Cleansing Conditioner,
a clever formula that cleans
big-smoke pollution and
smooths hair in one shot. Ive
asked for the bottle back, but
shes not returning my calls.
29; kerastase.co.uk
p20.co.uk
W
e cant see them, but we know theyre there, because another boats sonar has
THE MISSION picked them up. So were parked up two miles in front of them, waiting. Its only
A six-man sea-kayaking trip in the waters now Im in my kayak on the water that I get a true sense of how light my vessel is;
of western Canada on the lookout for orca: how vulnerable this makes me. The sensation is intense. Ahead, the water is undisturbed, but
six days, one very stubborn salmon and a beneath the surface there are killer whales, 25 of them. And coming our way. Were in the
cook-of on a hardcore eco-commune Johnstone Strait, the body of water that separates Vancouver Island from mainland Canada.
Its a place of incredible beauty anked by giant cedar forests and jords. Around us on the
small islands of the archipelago, abandoned villages are being reclaimed by the forest, and
MILES TRAVELLED LAST YEAR the landscape is dotted with ancient burial grounds that give the place a haunted, spiritual
75,000 quality. Instead of camping on one of the islands, weve opted to stay on a mothership, a 55ft
converted salmon trawler with a rooftop deck, a nice balance of rusticity and luxury, and just
WEIRDEST PLACE YOUVE BEEN the place to cook the sh we catch during the day. The salmon are big, eight pounds-plus, and
Kresty Prison, St Petersburg getting up close when youre in your tiny kayak and theyre ipping between your legs, the instinct that takes
with the Russian penal system seemed
A POSTCARD FROM
Sailings never going to be the peoples sport. Particularly the Americas Cup World Series brand of
super-tech, ying-through-the-air mega-sailing. If anything, its more like F1 on water, with its
international calendar and turbo-glamour. Well, it can be, anyway. Im sitting in a RIB just of the coast
of Muscat, where gossamer-light wind means theres all kinds of glamour, but little turbo. Ahead, six
AC45 yachts are racing like a gorgeously slow-moving migration of giant ightless sea butteries.
I have no idea who is winning, or even the coordinates of the course, but the whole thing is majestically
compelling. And then someone explains: the route, the rules, the tactics, the subplots and intense
rivalries. Of course, its more thrilling in high winds, they tell me, when the vessels rocket at 30 knots,
their two hulls both three feet above the water, just hydrofoils touching the surface, like a boat on
tiptoes. But light-wind racing is its own spectacle; chess on water, all feints and blufs and targeted
manoeuvres. And, nally, we Brits have, at the helm of our Land Rover BAR boat, a man to whom this
is second nature, a Kasparov of the seas: Olympic legend Ben Ainslie. His task is onerous, of course:
since the Royal Yacht Squadron inaugurated the tournament in 1851, weve been on a 165-year losing
streak. But if anyone can right this in the Louis Vuitton Cup in Bermuda in 2017, its him. Jumpers for
goalposts, itll never be. But with Ainslie in a boat and a roster of exotic locations (and Portsmouth),
there is an untapped audience for it, youd think. The Americas Cup World Series 2016 visits Chicago,
10-12 June, and Portsmouth, 22-24 July. land-rover-bar.americascup.com
Patchwork
T-shirt, 250,
Maison Margiela
(mrporter.com)
EDITORS PICK
Minimal and graphic, this
Mondaine watch chimes with
the seasons love of understated
cool. SARAH ILSTON, FASHION
ASSISTANT. Graphite Helvetica
No 1 watch, 295, Mondaine Leather-strap holdall,
(johnlewis.com) 695, Mulberry
(mrporter.com)
T the tops of gables, its streets wind around canals. But the time comes when a
traveller needs space, and light, and edge. The Conservatorium delivers those
in style, with a vast atrium lobby-lounge, and calm, minimalist rooms. Italian
designer Piero Lissoni is the star, with his trademark clean lines, muted hues and
cheeky ashes of colour. Out one door of the hotel are the Big Three museums,
exhibiting the best of Van Gogh, the Old Masters and modern art. Out the other is
Amsterdams chicest quarter, where shops scale the summits of international
design. Back inside, the gallery-weary load up with lunchtime salads from the
brasseries ice-table. Upstairs, hipsters clink crystal with a fashionable crowd in
Bomber jacket, 485, a cool bar with a clear glass counter. The history of the place gets a showing,
Tim Coppens too. It was built as a bank in the 19th century colourful Art Nouveau tiles,
(matchesfashion.com) and patterned ooring and brickwork have been beautifully restored. The spa
sweeps the board as the best in the city. Soft-toned wood, natural stone and
Lissonis serene simplicity make the perfect backdrop for purifying,
Eastern-inuenced treatments. The Conservatorium zaps
contemporary spark into a cosy old town. RODNEY BOLT
conservatoriumhotel.com. Doubles from about 445
Colonia eau
de cologne,
Orange-lens
85, Acqua
sunglasses, 113,
di Parma
Emporio Armani
(acquadi
(davidclulow.com).
parma.co.uk)
Striped socks,
17, Paul Smith
(liberty.co.uk)
Palm-print trainers,
Diamond chair, 295, Saint Laurent
1,668, Knoll (matchesfashion.com)
Studio (nest.co.uk)
0JJBJJ?OJ=@OMP@3@GGOC@M@*NJIGTJI@BGJMDJPNR<TOJ#I?JPO~
TRENDWATCH
SECRET SPACES IN PUBLIC PLACES
All of humanitys problems stem from mans inability to sit quietly in a room alone, wrote French philosopher Blaise Pascal back in the
1600s. Fast-forward four centuries and apparently not much has changed. But, boy, do we try. Remote cabins, of-grid boltholes, silent
retreats there seems no end to the lengths well go to to get away from it all and secure moments of solitude and reection. But what
about nding peace in our busy everyday lives? In response to this, architects are now coming up with ways to enjoy a sense of calm even in
the most hectic places: be it nap pods in airports, meditation booths in cities, or simply dedicated, beautifully designed spaces in which to
snatch ve minutes for ourselves. In 2012, at the busy entrance to a shopping centre in Helsinki, the Kamppi Chapel of Silence was constructed
by K2S Architects. The egg-shaped timber sanctuary received 250,000 visitors in its rst six months alone. For a more secluded moment,
mindfulness app Headspace recently created urban meditation pods with curving ribbed wooden interiors (pictured). Situated anywhere from
city parks to train stations, they will hide a screen programmed with a library of meditations encouraging you to zone out from the traic and
commuters all around. Meanwhile, GoSleep has been planting Sleeping Pods reclining cocoons with a retractable shade over the top at
Abu Dhabi and Dubai airports since 2013. But snoozings not just for layovers. With experts continuing to warn about the problems caused
by sleep deprivation, companies such as Google and Uber are installing oice nap capsules. If your workplace isnt as enlightened yet, take
matters into your own hands with a nifty lampshade-style Tomako pod by Finnish brand Vivero for instant DIY privacy. SARAH ILSTON
PHOTOGRAPH: HEADSPACE.COM
72
PAL AZZO ALVERA ALTANA, SAN MARCO
Venice from the rooftops is a completely diferent Venice to the one you see when you pound the streets; a rosy-hued skyline
of terracotta tiles, chimney pots and chiming bell towers. And the altana at Palazzo Alvera, with its carpet of Moroccan cushions
under the shaded awning and plenty of prosecco, is probably the loveliest place to take it all in. This stunning 14th-century mansion
facing the hubbub of the Grand Canal is right in the middle of the little triangle of San Marco just beside Campo Santo Stefano
where the most stylish artisanal shops are clustered: Santa Maria Novella (for perfumes and heavenly oils), Chiarastella Cattana
(for elegant printed linens), Loris Marazzi (for eccentric wooden sculptures) and numerous antiques behind dusty windowpanes.
Countess Alver lives downstairs, and Belgian designer Axel Vervoordt and his wife May own the second oor. But the top two
levels are yours to take. Its charmingly bohemian but incredibly chic too, with thick velvets and faded linens, swags and swathes
of silk and painted panelling on the walls. Seven Pierre Frey-bedecked bedrooms are all as pretty as each other. The dining
table is topped with ne glasswork, the sitting room is lined with Ming vases and oriental rugs, and all sorts of eclectic family
treasures are arranged nonchalantly together throughout, although they wouldnt look out of place in a gallery. Its splendid.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewsonvenice.com) offers stays from about 1,400 per night. Sleeps 15
PAL AZZO CONTARINI POLIGNAC,
DORSODURO
This, the second oor in one of the loveliest palaces
in Venice, is all old-world charm and opulence, with a
faded grandeur that only adds to the dreaminess of the
place. There are pastel stuccoed walls, soaring ceilings,
chandeliers and a four-poster princess bed with silk curtains
and cushions like something Marie Antoinette might have
chosen to sleep in (and indeed the Jolie-Pitts did when
they stayed). Even the bathroom walls are frescoed. Every
corner of the palazzo, built in the 14th century, is steeped
in history and art: Stravinsky and Wagner were regular
guests at receptions and musical salons here (you can
recline on the soft green silk-brocade sofa which, legend
has it, was the latters favourite spot). The Polignac family,
who still own the house, pride themselves on keeping the
creative spirit alive: the renowned French artist Roger de
Montebello paints from his studio here; the rst oor is
often used for contemporary-art exhibitions such as
sculptures by Korean artist Lee Ufan; and a workshop or a
private concert may well be taking place just upstairs. Most
likely you will be invited to take part too its that kind of
place. Everything about Palazzo Contarini Polignac is
deeply romantic, not least the views over the Accademia
Bridge on one side, across to the Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti
(right) and down the Grand Canal to the lagoon.
BOOK IT Venice Prestige (+44 20 3356 9667; veniceprestige.
com) offers three nights from about 6,200. Sleeps eight
000
CA DELLE VELE, DORSODURO
For a break from crumbling palazzi and their gilt-edged
pageantry, here is an unexpectedly sleek number. The
two-storey crashpad is brilliantly located right on
the Zattere but down at the eastern end, away from the
vaporetto stops and the over-spilling pizzerias. It is
quieter here, yet no less connected to the action. Get
a modern-art x at the Peggy Guggenheim museum, a
short wiggle through the narrow back calle, or head along
the waterfront to the vast Punta della Dogana, the
citys old customs building, to catch the new Accrochage
exhibition: 70 previously unseen works from Francois
Pinaults extraordinary private collection. This house,
though, has an incredible cityscape of its own. Two huge
ground-oor, chrome-edged picture windows look
straight out across the Giudecca canal. Sit back on a
cappuccino-coloured linen sofa in the living room (raised
on a platform to keep things dry during the acqua alta
high tides) and take in the goldsh-bowl view: the choppy
water and receding wakes, the 16th-century faade of
the Redentore church and the occasional waving
passengers of a passing cruise ship. Restrained and
rened, the use of larch wood, chocolate leather and
bronze does nothing to detract from that sight of
non-postcard-predictable Venice. Up the sculptural spiral
staircase is a pair of cool, minimal bedrooms under the
eaves, and a gorgeous south-facing suntrap terrace.
BOOK IT Views on Venice (+39 041 241 1149; viewson
venice.com) offers stays from about 500 per night. Sleeps six
CALLE DELLE ERBE, GIUDECCA
This is Ilaria and Giorgio Mianis other bolthole, a pied--terre they use when in town. And here you can see interior designer Ilarias
signature citrus hits, her kicks of foresty green, her blasts of pink. Calle delle Erbe is boldly decorated, with brightly coloured walls,
artfully considered touches of chinoiserie, and an industrial stainless-steel kitchen. It seamlessly blends contemporary style with
traditional Venetian details such as the exposed dark beams and distinctive terrazzo ooring. Best of all is the view of the rippling water,
and the bustle of bobbing boats. The two-floor apartment is hidden away on the island of the Giudecca, which few tourists make it to,
other than those staying at the Cipriani. Elton John and David Furnish may have a villa here but the neighbours you are more likely
to bump into are bona-fide locals who reside and work in Venice and have done all their lives. In fact, the Giudecca is only a short
vaporetto ride from St Marks Square but delivers an off-the-beaten-track charm which can be hard to come across in a city with tens
of millions of visitors every year. Here there are butchers, bakers and patisseries, as well as the Redentore, Venices most impressive
Palladian church. Excellent restaurants are also within easy walking distance, including Harrys Dolci and Trattoria Altanella.
BOOK IT Bellini Travel (+44 20 7602 7602; bellinitravel.com) offers three nights from 1,450. Sleeps six
78
flotsam
anD then
some
on a 500-mile trek
along britains
beaches, Artist
stuart haygarth
collected 36,000
man-made objects
that had been
washed ashore, and
then arranged
them into sublime
explosions of
colour and order
I spent 38 days gathering objects on weekly trips. Id park my VW camper van as close as possible to the coast and then walk for hours
to my destination before catching a taxi or bus back to my van to camp over night, think through the days haul and write my travel log.
80
Near the archetypal holiday spots of Broadstairs and Margate I was surprised to find nothing of interest to collect but stumbled across a long pink
plastic penis wedged between rocks. It was a novelty straw, which made me smile and feel like an archaeologist finding an ancient drinking implement.
82
I have spent several
years rescuing balls which
were once objects of play
and suddenly became
redundant because of
a misguided throw.
My favourite discovery was Chesil beach near Portland in Dorset. It is 18 miles long and separated from the mainland by the Fleet
lagoon. The size of the beach is dramatic, and because it is exposed to high winds sea-borne bits and bobs are plentiful.
84
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALL WORKS BY THE ARTIST COPYRIGHT 2016 STUART HAYGARTH. COURTESY OF THE ARTIST
I nd beauty in the way the objects change visually due to the continuous action of the salt water and sand. Colours fade and plastic becomes
sandblasted and there is a story to each piece. Strand by Stuart Haygarth is out now (28, Art/Books). artbookspublishing.co.uk
a r d e n
G
86
Clockwise from top left: a boutique on Bornholm; a smokehouse; Lov i Listed shop; Svaneke; a vintage shop in Gudhjem; lettuce from Kadeaus garden; a trawler;
herring; Melsted Badehotel. Opposite, rye bread at the hotel. Previous pages from left: a dish of sorrel and potato at Kadeau; breakfast at Melsted Badehotel
The jaunty 1959 song by Ib Mossin toots
the delights of this summer getaway: The Sunshine Island in the
Baltic Sea! My Bornholm! Your girls are so pretty! From Sandvig
to Nex to Rnne! And if you take the ferry from Ystad, the
port closest to Copenhagen, youll have the pleasure of hearing
it multiple times during the 80-minute crossing. More recently,
the beachy Danish territory, midway between Sweden and
Poland and long lauded by artists and poets for its landscapes
and pure light, is attracting a different kind of traveller. Within
Denmark Bornholm has always been famous for smoked fish;
every village and town has its own smokehouses and every
other low-slung, half-timbered fishing cottage is topped with
a smokestack chimney. But it wasnt until years after Ren
Redzepi and Claus Meyer opened Noma and their New Nordic
manifesto had rocketed to the fore internationally that people
really starting paying attention to this bountiful spot. The
foodies that flocked to Copenhagen in the mid-2000s are
now booking their summer holidays here.
My boyfriends mother Marianne Andersen and her
husband Steen have lived on the island for ages. In fact, Steen
was born here, but they werent the only ones championing
the place. Every time I visited Denmark over the years Id
heard about Bornholm, from chefs and fashion designers to beach below: whole crispy shrimp with asparagus and spirulina
people Id chatted to while throwing dice in a bodega along a dipped in fermented corn; crunchy stemmed kale, picked by
Christianshavn canal. It had taken on a mythical shape in my the kitchen staff that morning, with mussels and gooseberries;
minds eye. Compared to other Baltic Sea islands, Bornholm pork from heritage-breed, forest-reared pigs with black-garlic
has a long, warm growing season with lots of daylight, sheltered gel, beets and blackcurrant; rhubarb with blue cheese and
valleys and extremely fertile soil, which makes it a farmers fermented honey from Kadeaus hives. Its easy to understand
paradise. Kadeau, older sister to the Michelin-starred restaurant why so many people make the journey to Bornholm for this
in Copenhagen of the same name, was set up in a former experience. The night before, Nrregaard says, four groups of
PHOTOGRAPHS: SARAH COGHILL; MIKKEL HERIBA; MARIE LOUISE MUNKSGAARD
beachfront caf to showcase the islands natural produce. As guests had travelled from the mainland especially for supper.
head chef and co-owner Nicolai Nrregaard and I walk through And in February, this Kadeau received a Michelin star of its own.
the restaurants main garden a project he tends with his father The Kadeau team launched Sommer Pony, a more relaxed
he points out bushes heavy with ripening boysenberries and outpost, last summer. Its set in boutique hotel Nordlandet
redcurrants, rows of sprouting leeks and onions, and edible on the islands northern tip and tables are already the hottest
roses he describes as the taste of Bornholm. Anything they in town. Like the hotel, the monochrome restaurant and
dont have space to grow, such as pumpkins, they forage or open kitchen have sea views and the minimalist, clean lines
source from local farmers and gardens; the annotated map of Danish modern design, plus a straightforward menu and
on Kadeaus menu lists more than 40 suppliers, including laid-back vibe. The Pony Kick set lunch, chosen by the chef
separate fishermen for herring and turbot and what Nrregaard each day, is a great way to get stuck in; there are also small
declares to be the best strawberries in the world (nobody plates such as cured brill with smoked egg, gherkins and spelt
knows the variety, and original producer Hans Age isnt telling). crackers or more substantial main courses, including ribeye
Everything flourishes here, says Nrregaard, who knows the with bone-marrow sauce. And if you just want a newspaper-
seasons like the back of his hand. In summer we harvest figs wrapped pie to eat on a bench as the sun dips below the horizon,
and mulberries, which you cant do anywhere else in the Skipperkroen, a fishermans retreat 10 minutes drive down the
north. Last year we pickled 300kg of marrow, which is a lot, road, does great no-frills fast food sausages, meatballs and
but we used it all up it was gone by January. cold-cut platters and live music. Youll find harbour workers
Cocooned by fragrant herb gardens and warmed by woollen in here most evenings, playing games of pool.
blankets and the restaurants open fire, I work my way through Its almost impossible to eat badly on Bornholm. In the heart
14 extraordinary courses while watching the waves break on the of the island, right in among the forest and painted a beaming
89
The restaurant
had only been
open nine hours
but news travels
fast here.
Seventy people
showed up for
drinks and
another 100 came
for dinner
Clockwise from top left: dream cake; a caf in Gudhjem; granola and a bedroom at Melsted Badehotel; Kadeau; Sebastian Frost jewellery shop; a dish of beetroot
and sorrel, the terrace and a model boat at Melsted Badehotel. Previous pages from left: deck chairs beside the hotel; sun-dried herring by chef Carsten Kyster
yellow so you cant possibly miss it, the Christianshjkroen inn The island is incredibly pretty and laced with lovely roads
is perfect for post-hike lunches. The name translates as chicken and 150 miles of cycling routes. The 30-minute drive from
mother but dont expect baskets of fried drumsticks; it serves the main port city of Rnne on the west coast to Nex on the
pretty plates of beef tartare and pickled herring with scoops, east takes you through a patchwork of green pastures dotted
foams, crumbs and foraged herbs. It also runs an initiative for with grazing Jersey cows and horses. Rows of towering corn
people with learning difficulties who are employed as kitchen stalks flank red-walled, thatched farmhouses and white wooden
assistants or to give guided walks in the woods. At the other barns spill feathery yellow plumes of straw from their haylofts.
end of the scale, French restaurant Le Port, in the village of Rather than sell produce in a shop, locals set up honesty
Vang, is so discreetly high-end its not even signposted from the boxes which you pass on almost every street: big trays of
street. This is one of the islands more romantic dinner spots; eggs and bags of potatoes for 2 apiece, timber, berries even
tables are surrounded by racks of Bordeaux and Burgundies home-knitted blankets and crocheted cardigans.
and dishes include lamb culottes with mushrooms and just- And the architecture is a beguiling mix of old and new.
shelled peas, and halibut with scallops, fennel and parsley. World War II bunkers and communication towers testify to
Last May, the Gaarden opened in the town of Gudhjem. Its Bornholms maritime history and strategic importance; you
a sort of farmers market where foodies can try all sorts of can still climb the spiral steps at Hammeren lighthouse for
traditional flavours and, in the open kitchen, learn how to make views that go on for miles. The 13th-century fortress ruins at
rye bread and salads with ingredients just plucked from the soil. Hammershus are just as famous for the conflicts fought here
The annual cooking contest, Sol over Gudhjem, held in June, gets as for the clog-wearing troll Krlle Blle, who anyone will
bigger every year, attracting top names from across Denmark. tell you lives in the caves nearby. The round white churches
Chefs and restaurateurs who grew up on the island and left for are emblematic of the island: the oldest, Osterlars, dates from
the bright lights and heftier wages of Copenhagen are now 1160 and at some point was fortified with a top-floor shooting
returning for longer and longer stints. Michael Rnnebaek-Rrth gallery. In contrast, the 1950s pyramid-shaped Svaneke Water
champions Bornholm produce year-round at his successful Tower by Jrn Utzon, the Danish architect responsible for the
Copenhagen restaurant Koefoed, but devotes his summers to Sydney Opera House, and the new Green Solution House the
running pop-ups here. At his Hummerhytten (lobster hut), worlds first cradle-to-cradle hotel, which emphasises reusable
within the gardens of a whitewashed fishermans cottage in materials and renewable energy are great examples of the
Svaneke, a pair of cooks work elbow-to-elbow on a two-ring islands progressive mentality and proclivity for modern design.
hob. Wooden tables are scattered about, the most coveted set For contemporary Danish fashion and homewares, the
directly inside the open-front smokestack and lit by a chandelier town of Svaneke is a great place to shop. Pernille Blow was
suspended in the chimney. The dishes, such as cold boiled one of the first artisans to establish a studio here (she can
shrimp with lemon mayo and lobster tail with pea puree on often be seen working glowing, red-hot bulbs of molten glass
fresh peas, are just as unpretentious as the location. When I at the furnaces within her cavernous workshop). Today the
swing by, the restaurant has only been open for nine hours, but lanes are filled with independent clothing, ceramics and glass
news on Bornholm travels fast. We held a reception for local stores. But in a place where every decision seems to be driven
residents last night and thought only 20 would show up. We by peoples appetites its hardly surprising that the local food
ended up serving drinks and food to 70 people and another including the liquorice at Pernilles son Johans store, where
100 came for dinner, Rnnebaek-Rrth says as he pours me a confectioners can be seen working the black, tar-like mounds
glass of Sauvignon Blanc and then flies back into the kitchen. is still by far the biggest, juiciest, stickiest draw.
Nordlandet, Allinge After renovations last year this hotel now has an ultra- Stammershalle Badehotel, Gudhjem The pristine white Lassens restaurant
restrained Nordic style with lament light bulbs, charcoal-painted walls and in this imposing seaside retreat, run by award-winning chef Daniel Kruse,
tongue-and-groove cladding in the east-facing bedrooms, from which there is well known for its French-inspired food. You can also pop into the hotel
are spectacular views of sunrise over the water. Theres no reception desk: for afternoon tea: tuck into drmmekage a Danish cofee dream cake
ring the hall bell and someone will appear, but other than that you have the made with vanilla caramelised coconut and sticky pastries. Afterwards,
run of the place, plus direct access to the Sommer Pony pop-up on the terrace. collapse in one of the 16 pared-back bedrooms with views of the steely
+45 56 480 344; nordlandet.dk. Doubles from about 125 Baltic and towards the island of Christians.
Melsted Badehotel, Gudhjem Overlooking a sandy beach that interrupts +45 56 484 210; stammers halle-badehotel.dk. Doubles from about 95
the north-west coasts rocky shoreline, the 18 bright rooms here channel a Green Solution House, Rnne Part-hotel, part-convention hub, this is an
New England vibe, with faded orals and nautical stripes, and alongside the exercise in sustainable building, earnestly constructed from biodegradable
croquet lawn and putting green is a row of Adirondack chairs looking out to materials wherever possible, from eco-label wall paint to vintage-wool-
sea. The restaurant though, run by chef Frederik Bille Brahe, is all Danish, upholstered furniture. The roof is planted with a heathery mix of plants,
with black kale, foraged chanterelles and locally reared pork on the menu. and bathwater is repurposed to irrigate the vegetable patch.
+45 56 485 100; melsted-badehotel.dk. Doubles from about 145 +45 56 95 19 13; greensolutionhouse.dk. Doubles from about 110
93
94
TAKE ME HIGHER
EVEN AS NEW MISSIONS ARE BEING PLANNED TO FIND LIFE ON MARS, JUST BENEATH THE SURFACE OF
OUR OWN PLANET THERE ARE CONSTELLATIONS OF WONDROUS ORGANISMS THAT FLIP THE WORLD ON ITS HEAD.
JULIAN EVANS REDISCOVERS THE GREAT BARRIER REEF. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG
o snorkel, dive or fly over the Great Barrier colour. We were an hour east of Lizard Island on Davids boat,
T
Reef is to glimpse a marvellous autonomy. Serranidae, where the Reef meets the blue-black Pacific in
From 150 metres up, the black lozenge shallows suddenly mint-aquamarine, the swell foaming over
of a manta ray quartering a platform of pale them, sharks-tooth white.
coral gives a powerful sense of natures Growing up in Brisbane, Id spent my earliest holidays on
indifference. But truly to enter its world, you the Reef. It seems incredible that through the 1960s and 1970s
must descend. Sort the fussy details of scuba oil, mining and political interests were intent on drilling and
gear, equalise pressure and buoyancy. Kneel blasting it for petroleum, gas and fertiliser for the Queensland
on the white sand 10 metres below the surface, canefields. Then, around the time Jean Shrimpton scandalised
or simply drift on the current and wait for life to materialise in Australia by appearing at the Melbourne Cup in a white mini-
the perfect silence. Its a busy, self-sufficient world. A shoal dress without hat or gloves, a few activists started campaigning.
of yellow-tailed fusiliers spiral like an Alexander Calder mobile. It took 15 years to get the Reef designated a marine park.
A clownfish plays hide-and-seek in the fronds of its host World Heritage-listed in 1981 as the most impressive marine area
anemone. Move, and 20 violet- and chocolate-lipped clams sigh in the world, it is now known to possess 580 species of coral,
shut like an orchestra of noiseless cymbals. Move again, and more than 1,500 species of fish, six of the seven turtle species
50 brilliant Christmas-tree worms vanish into their holes in the on the planet, and its value is understood differently: as a
boulder coral. Theyre all about their business, shopping, dining, phenomenally rich ecosystem in which coral polyps organisms
visiting, mating; the realms they inhabit villages and districts, like tiny upside-down jellyfish and zooxanthellae algae live
pillars and tables and circuses, gardens and meadows bustling in symbiosis. Algae provide oxygen and energy, coral a safe
in all their artful coral variety. habitat and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. Reefs are the
Lizard Island, humpbacked and biblically handsome, is a rainforests of the seas, and vitally, for humans healthy reef
granite button lapped by raw blues that pull your eye towards corals absorb carbon at nearly twice the rate a rainforest can.
the intensity and immensity of sea and sky. The morning, Every discovery we make discovers something in us. Mine, as
said David, our skipper, quoting Robert Louis Stevenson, is ah! I travelled the extent of the Reef approximately the length of
such a morning as you have never seen; heaven upon earth Italy, an area of 350,000 square kilometres was that entering
for sweetness, freshness, depth upon depth of unimaginable its unsignposted territory connected me to the most mysterious
Opening pages, Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsunday Islands. Previous pages and above, flying from Cairns over the Reef. Opposite: looking skywards
through the photographers air bubbles; a blacktip reef shark a species often encountered by divers at Bramble Reef, near Orpheus Island
96
place I have known, in which I could only rely on my
senses. This, I think, is precious. Its as life should be.
From Orpheus Island, 640km south of Lizard, I dived
Bramble Reef, a perfect reef-as-city, with coral tables
like city blocks and gullies that open out into sandy
squares. Slashes of pastels, lumpy as clay or fragile as lace,
give way to a coral Soho of blues, pinks, neon yellows
and purples, bustling with startling crowds and shameless
individualists: painted sweetlips, six-banded angelfish,
long-beaked coralfish, scarlet-breasted Maori wrasse, a
timid baby moray eel, a starfish of Yves Klein blue. Black-
tip reef sharks steal past in the foggy distance.
In the Whitsunday Islands, at the Reefs southern end,
the gleaming One&Only Hayman Island a world away
from the gum trees and beach huts I visited as a boy
offered a moment of ethereal beauty when its helicopter
deposited me, like a butterfly alighting, on the 98-per-
cent-silica sand of Whitehaven Beach, sand that boggles
the senses with its whiteness and coolness underfoot and
its furling, filigree arabesques in the shallow currents.
Few disagree that the worlds coral reefs are, in terms
of climate change and our survival, the canary in the
coalmine. Yet for every scientist who says that the Great
DRIFT ON THE
CURRENT AND WAIT
FOR LIFE TO
MATERIALISE IN THE
PERFECT SILENCE
Barrier Reef is threatened with irreversible decline,
another describes a Reef that will adapt, one that has
died and come to life again at least five times before, its
sublime palette of sulphur, lilac, cream, violet, magenta,
lime and tourmaline reviving and blooming again.
Passing through the city of Townsville I stopped at Reef
HQ, where an aquarium and other visitor attractions
are combined with research and outreach. The affable
director, Fred Nucifora, led me to a turtle-rehabilitation
area. Visitors surged into the room after us. We watched
them cluck sympathetically at the creatures that had
been injured by plastic bags, hooks, fishing lines. I hope
you can see, Nucifora said, that its not turtles were
rehabilitating here. Its humans.
Theres the key. The Great Barrier Reef is declining.
The Great Barrier Reef is recovering. What matters is
that those facts converge at a point where the Reefs
ability to recover is greater than the factors warming
seas and overdevelopment causing its decline. For now,
the Great Barrier Reef is still unimaginable beauty
known. Let it not be beauty lost.
98
ENTERING ITS UNSIGNPOSTED TERRITORY CONNECTED
ME TO THE MOST MYSTERIOUS PLACE I HAVE KNOWN
WHERE TO STAY
TO GET BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
LIZARD ISLAND respectively. The diving, particularly at Cod a handful of hotels really are, dedicated to
Two hundred kilometres north of Cairns, this Hole, is excellent, and the Lizard Island making you content to forget that anything
is accessible only by private charter. The Research Station is one of the worlds leading else exists or matters one of those places
shocked, defoliated look of the island's granite reef-research facilities the hotel can arrange where what Martha Gellhorn called
hills is the result of two recent back-to-back visits. Despite their alarming appearance, the kitchen of life disappears. Formerly
cyclones a fact of life at this latitude. But the the yellow-spotted monitors, which inspired owned by people in the entertainment industry
storms also provided a chance to rebuild the Captain Cook when he named the island in Vivien Leigh stayed here it was bought in
islands hotel in an elegant, almost puritanical- 1770, are not to be feared they are polite 2011 by Chris Morris, a tech millionaire, who
looking line of minimalist white-clapboard and and discreet to the point of timidity. rebuilt it basically for family and friends.
zinc-roofed villas, among the thinned-out lizardisland.com.au. Doubles from about 910 Twenty-eight staf look after a maximum
palms and paperbark trees. The efect is one of 28 guests, none of the rooms has a key and
of old-fashioned freshness, and it lets the raw the atmosphere is as unforced as the service
blues that lap the islands humpbacked rocks ORPHEUS ISLAND is seamless. Jen, the islands gardener for
and beaches enhance the incredible vistas A chopper hop out of Townsville, there's been 16 years, has 50 hens that she massages
of sea and sky. Often an asset of remote a hotel hidden away here since the 1950s. every day and a vegetable garden conjured
island hotels is their attention to foodie detail, Its pedigree is obvious as you step from the from desert-island sand. She likes to have
and Lizard Islands Salt Water restaurant is helipad onto a wide, colonial-era lawn, green coconuts for the guests, and Arie, the
no exception: Blackman Bay oysters, red-claw perfect for garden parties, and walk towards a chef, produces omelettes of miraculous
yabbies with wasabi avocado, Black Angus night-blue-tiled swimming pool, pantiled sweetness from her hens eggs. The diving is
eye llet in sea-urchin butter, along with bungalows and a panoramic open lounge and exceptional: its principal dive sites are home
equally extraordinary Pinot Noir and restaurant decorated with rustic plasterwork. to 1,100 of the Reefs 1,500 sh species.
Shiraz from Victoria and South Australia Orpheus is for the happy few, as perhaps only orpheus.com.au. Doubles from about 750
Above, a turtles-eye view under the surface. Opposite, one of the 1,500 species of sh on the Reef; sea anemone at Bramble Reef
103
IN SHALLOWS SUDDENLY MINT-AQUAMARINE THE
FOAMING SWELL IS SHARK'S-TOOTH WHITE
ONE&ONLY HAYMAN ISLAND
At the northern tip of the Whitsunday Islands,
this is a sleek retreat on a grand scale. Recently
and lavishly refurbished at a cost of
40 million, its cradled in a lovingly maintained
rainforest landscape, and slickly supplies all
needs to the point where the temptation
simply to stay put may become diicult to
resist. But of course there are many exciting
and exotic reef-oriented activities, including
helicopter tours of the Outer Reef and
motorised snorkelling with electric Seabobs.
Signature spa treatments await even those
weary reef explorers who choose to let the
Seabobs do their paddling for them. (The
Ocean Dreaming therapy is actually conducted
on a oating table in the sea. Appointment
times are dictated by the tides.) Rooms are airy
and bright, with accents of shiny chrome and
pale oak amid great tumbles of muslin and
translucent white linen, at once contemporary
and retro-chic. The vibe at the Chefs Table,
one of six restaurants, might mislead you into
thinking that your Martini has teleported you
to New York. Better still, inhabit the present
by taking your drink on the beach, with the
Coral Sea at your feet and, as every good bar
in the tropics faces west, the sun slipping
away behind your toes. oneandonly
resorts.com. Doubles from about 450
DIVING LOWDOWN
With some two million visitors to the Reef
each year, the diving scene is thriving. Options
for beginners are many: one of the friendliest is
the Cairns Dive Centre (cairnsdive.com.au),
which ofers the standard four-day PADI
Open Water course for a reasonable price
(about 300) in the company of professional
and likeable instructors. Because most of
the Reef is a marine-park area, operators
must be accredited and adhere to strict
environmental standards. Diving is almost
always better in the north, where the waters
clearer, because its less rich in nutrients, and
better in the Australian winter and spring.
GETTING HERE
Austravel (+44 800 988 4834; austravel.com)
ofers 10-day trips to the Great Barrier Reef
from 2,249 per person, including ights,
transfers, excursions and stays at Lizard
Island, Orpheus Island and One&Only Hayman
Island. For more information on the Great Barrier
Reef, visit queensland.com
105
GET THE DRIFT
Its now a stop-off on the glittery international art circuit and yet the boho, go-slow
Greek island of Hydra will always sway gently to its own rhythm
Where have you just come back from? Describe a childhood-holiday memory heaven. So that drive, and every highway,
I was in Los Angeles for a week, and My dads a betting man, and when I freeway and corner to get there is the
although it took a while, Ive grown was eight or nine, he had a big win and one I do most often.
to like that city. Ive been at home in took me and my three siblings around
New York with my baby a lot recently, the world, and all through Europe. It First holiday without your parents?
so it was nice to have a change of was autumn and I was drinking hot A trip to Woodford Folk Festival in
scenery. Plus my brother and best friend chocolate by the Champs-Elyses in Queensland. My friends and I would
both live in LA, and we got to spend Paris it was so romantic. I remember drive up in a van and camp out, even
plenty of time with them. very vividly how dream-like that was. though it was hotter than the sun.
There were bands playing, face-painting,
Where have you felt happiest? The smartest hotel youve stayed in? yoga, you name it really hippy and
New York City. Its not for everyone; The Ritz in Paris. It was another trip alternative. I was lucky; my parents
its full of adrenalin and a bit of a we took as a family. Dad had another trusted me to be reasonably sensible.
clusterfuck, but I still love it. I first win when I was 18 and took us travelling
visited when I was 18, then returned again thats his thing. I went there for What do you pack rst?
to study when I was 20, and Ive been a drink before it closed for refurbishment If its summer, a floral sundress; in winter,
living here since I was 28. and it was just as amazing. some good, thick cashmere sweaters.
Name a place thats lived up to the hype Name a great little place you know Sightseeing or sun lounger?
I went to Angkor Wat in Cambodia Im a big coffee drinker, so I always try Im not a huge fan of lying about in
about 10 years ago, and it was unusual, to find the best spots to get a good cup, the sun, I get overheated very quickly,
breathtaking, wild, wonderful, stunning: which is very un-Australian of me. Im
all the clichs are true. If youre ever NEW YORK CITY ISNT more likely to get out and about and
anywhere near it, you should go thats have a look around.
what I tell everyone. FOR EVERYONE.
ITS FULL OF ADRENALIN Where would you never go back to?
And one that least lived up to the hype Key West in Florida. I think there are
Las Vegas. That place sucks. I cant AND A CLUSTERFUCK, parts that are nice, but unfortunately I
stand it. I had to go last year for an event. BUT I STILL LOVE IT went to the really touristy area, which
I was kind of excited because I hadnt is not my cup of tea. Tacky theme bars
been for years, and I thought a couple wherever I am. I spent three months in and people trying to flog T-shirts and
of nights there would be fun. But as Budapest and found a great caf called, hats. Its become a Disney-fied version
soon as I landed, I just could not wait of all things, My Little Melbourne. It does of itself and was really disappointing.
to get out. The hotel was seedy, the food brilliant breakfasts too.
was dreadful, the service was terrible Ever taken anything from a hotel room?
It wasnt fun at all. I lost my heart in... Sometimes I take all the shampoo and
PHOTOGRAPH: BEN MORRIS/TRUNK ARCHIVE
As someone whose earliest memory of the English seaside is sitting in the back seat of the family Triumph as it crawled along the
Brighton seafront in a hot, sticky traic jam, the Sufolk coast has a special place in my heart. Because in Sufolk that would never
happen. There isnt a coast road. Nature hasnt allowed it. Instead, theres the inland A12, which weaves its way through shadowy forests,
skirting great swathes of purple heather and yellow gorse-smothered heath and marshland. The bit between Southwold and Aldeburgh
is loveliest because of all its extremes: the picket-fenced perfection of Southwold; the low-key charm of Walberswick, where various
Freuds (Esther, Emma) have lived for years, with its wind-whipped cottages and wide sandy beach; and Dunwich, a tiny village on a vast
stretch of shingle, which was once a major port before gradually being washed away by the sea. Dingle Marshes and Dunwich Forest are
to the north, and going south skipping Sizewell is Thorpeness, a fantasy holiday village built by a Scottish barrister in 1910. Further
along theres bookish, ruggedly charming Aldeburgh, with its literary, arts and food festivals and some of the freshest sh and chips on
the planet. Get the most out of all of it by abandoning the car and walking or cycling. And, when in Walberswick, rowing or get rowed by
Dani Church, whose family has been ofering this low- shuttle service across the Blythe estuary since the 1800s.
From left: Southwold Pier signage;
grassland near Walberswick; Two
Magpies Bakery in Southwold; on
the beach at Aldeburgh
WHERE The Adnams Brewery Miss it and live a life of regret. Also peaceful contrast, take the seafront path
TO EAT is integral to life in try the Blythburgh pork and black- to the Sailors Reading Room for a flick
& DRINK Southwold (beer has pudding Scotch egg. through the papers. The Electric Picture
been brewed on site For original fish dishes, the Seafood Palace aims to recreate the cinema-going
since 1345) and its malty whiffs waft & Grill restaurant at Aldeburghs experience of the 1950s, with usherettes,
down the streets. Walk into any pub Brudenell Hotel is run by Mark Ruffalo- a commissionaire on the door, and the
and chances are Adnams owns it for lookalike Tyler Torrance, a gregarious national anthem playing at the end.
a pint of Ghost Ship ale in the cosiest Canadian who trained at The Fat Duck Crabbing is huge in Walberswick
setting, the old-school Lord Nelson and can often be found down at the (though avoid the weekend of the annual
is a short scamper from the beach. For fishermens huts on the beach gauging the British Open Crabbing Championships,
excellent fish and chips (or venison days finest ingredients. Buying haddock cancelled twice in recent years due to
sausage and herby mashed potato), and chips from Aldeburgh Fish and Chip overcrowding). All you need is a bucket,
book a table at The Crown Hotel on Shop then sitting on the sea wall to eat line, cooked bacon for bait and a good
the High Street. Two Magpies Bakery, it like a teenager is a seminal Suffolk spot on the bridge over the creek. Youll
a few doors down, is the place for great experience. Then and only then is it be pulling them out hand over fist a
coffee, sandwiches to take to the beach OK to go to sibling the Golden Galleon surprisingly exhilarating experience.
and just-baked loaves of sensational for a grown-up supper at the upstairs At Dunwich, after that Scotch egg in
sourdough. Saturday is pizza night here: restaurant, the Upper Deck. The Ship, pop next door to the museum
Cheesus H Crust, a crispy and delicious to learn more about the seat of the first
base laced with locally smoked ham, WHAT The Adnams Brewery tour, bishop of East Anglia, which in 1086 was
organic honey and rocket, is a bestseller. TO SEE often led by local characters one of the 10 largest towns in England,
If youre heading to Walberswick from & DO such as Jane Leonard, a with at least six churches and monasteries.
Southwold, slurp up some oysters from retired ballerina is the You can then walk along the clifftop
one of the quayside shacks before coolest introduction to Southwold, and the to the ruins of Greyfriars, a Franciscan
hopping on the ferry. Once across the view from the top is the best in town. monastery and one of the few buildings to
water, The Anchor is reliable for good Stroll past the candy-coloured beach huts survive. Aldeburgh Museum is housed in
pub grub as well as creative wine and to Southwold Pier, pick up locally churned Moot Hall, which was once in the centre
beer matching. Ive got three words to Suffolk Meadow Ice Cream and duck of town, but coastal erosion means its
say about old smugglers haunt The Ship into the Under the Pier Show, the worlds now right on the beach. In June theres
at Dunwich. Sticky. Toffee. Pudding. most eccentric amusement arcade. For a the Aldeburgh Festival, the renowned
arts and music jamboree launched by reading from the friendly Aldeburgh floating in the sea. The terrace is great
Benjamin Britten in 1948, although it now Bookshop on the High Street. for an early seafood supper in the fading
mostly takes place just inland at Snape Should the desire to buy a pair of light of a warm summers day. Or
Maltings. The Aldeburgh Food and Drink J Brand jeans or an Ilse Jacobsen raincoat book one of a clutch of uniquely brilliant
Festival in September showcases more outweigh the need to go crabbing, Collen rentals, such as the Martello Tower at
than 90 producers. and Clare on Southwolds Market Place is the foot of the Orford Ness peninsula
The stroll up the beach to Thorpeness like a mini-Fenwick. As well as ale, Adnams (landmarkstrust.org.uk; four nights from
takes about 40 minutes from Aldeburgh, produces award-winning gins infused with 552), the most northerly of the defence
passing the giant stainless-steel scallop 13 botanicals and delicious, butterscotchy towers built to keep out Napoleon, now
by Suffolk-born artist Maggi Hambling vodkas, which make nice presents to take a two-bedroom weekend bolthole.
that fans out from the sand. Once there, home. Stop off at the Thorpeness Village In Thorpeness, clapboard beach house
hire a dinghy and paddle to one of the Store for really amazing homemade Valetta (bestofsuffolk.co.uk; from 864
little islands on the Meare lake for a sausage rolls, tender Suffolk ham thats per week) sits right on the sand, while
picnic, just as its creator, Glencairn Stuart been glazed on the premises and Olgas the five-bedroom House in the Clouds
Ogilvie, intended. jams and fudge. You cant spend a weekend (houseintheclouds.co.uk; from 1,070 for
in Suffolk without picking up a few two nights) inhabits a 1920s water tower.
WHERE Buying fresh fish right random antiques (a door knob shaped At Dunwich, check into pretty pub-
TO from one of the leather- like a soldier, a Victorian tablecloth, with-rooms The Ship (shipatdunwich.
SHOP skinned fishermen on the absolutely anything made of that white co.uk; doubles from 115) or rent the
beach is one of the great and blue enamel). Thorpeness Emporium three-bed 1 Church Cottages (dunwich
pleasures of Aldeburgh. For just-cooked will provide all the opportunities you cottage.com; from 342 for three nights).
lobster wrapped in newspaper, shell need, as will Tinkers of Walberswick. An hours walk up the beach is The Old
and claws already cracked for easy access, Fishermans Hut (suffolk-secrets.co.uk;
find Dean Fryer, whose hut is opposite WHERE Its worth shelling out from 335 per week) for a quintessential
the White Lion Hotel. For other TO for a sea-facing room at Walberswick weekend. To be in the
essentials, theres Aldeburgh Market STAY Aldeburghs beachfront thick of it in Southwold, check into
(a deli and caf championing regional Brudenell Hotel (brudenell a room at The Crown Hotel (adnams.
produce) which, after moving location hotel.co.uk; doubles from 130) the co.uk; doubles from 185).
several times, has now found its happy higher the better, for the thrill of lying in For more information, visit thesuffolk
place on the High Street. Pick up holiday bed with the curtains-open feeling of coast.co.uk and suffolkcoastandheaths.org
hot property
The Myconian Collection is a family-run portfolio of
gorgeous hotels on Mykonos. The most recent addition
to its now seven-strong collection, is the super-cool,
design-led Avaton
environment, using reams of stone and timber. treatments from the likes of Elemis, St Barth, and
Theres a Greek authenticity (vintage black-and- Kerstin Florian. Whether you plump for a chilled-out
white photographs of island life line the white- body massage, an Elemis facial, the Lavender
washed corridors) but the overall vibe is young, hip Turkish Salt Scrub, Exotic Frangipani Body Wrap
and luxe. Splashes of red, layers of black and design- or Lime and Ginger Salt Glow, all luxurious
forward details are interwoven throughout. treatments are individually tailored. There are also
Clockwise from this
exceptional thalassotherapy facilities including
image: A beautifully
designed suite with
a chef for all seasons four pools of varying temperature and salinity,
sea view; fine dining; a steam bath and, for anyone who feels the need to
poolside; the spa; The food at Avaton is seasonal and superb. Breakfasts work out, a gym. A tranquil setting completes the
bedroom with a sea are veritable banquets of Greek yoghurt, wild honey, top-to-toe bliss-out.
view; poolside at fresh fruit and pastries. Lunches (indoor or al fresco
night. All at the by the pool) are inspired by organic ingredients and at your service
Myconian Avaton locally sourced produce, all enjoyed to striking views
of Elia Beach and the sparkling Aegean. The evening Throughout the Myconian Collection, the personal
menus are superlative, ranging from creative service is flawless and always utterly genuine. This
interpretations of traditional local fare to is Greek hospitality at its very best. Anything can be
sophisticated gourmet dishes, complimented by an organised from butler service, boat excursions and
exceptional local and international wine list. horse riding to in-house chefs, daily grocery
deliveries and tailor-made romantic dinners. Nothing
r&r is ever too much trouble.
Reader offer
Cond Nast Traveller readers can
enjoy a 100 spa credit per room per
stay, complimentary local wine, one
five-course Greek dinner (excluding
drinks), one 45-minute
thalassotherapy treatment per
person per stay and airport/port
transfers. To book, please email
sales@myconiancollection.gr
quoting condenastmc16. Offer is
valid for a minimum of five nights
for stays from 1 May to 30 October
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ON SALE NOW
FLAVOUR HUNTER
Food and drink ixes from Paris Japan Mexico Mississippi Hawaii
EDITED BY FIONA KERR & TABITHA JOYCE
TABLE TO BOOK
Mexicos dippiest street-food snack
is being taken to another level
Its not as if El Moro needs to change: its homemade
churros and hot chocolate have been a Mexico City
favourite since 1935, when Spanish owner Francisco
Iriarte set up shop in Centro Histrico. The original
store is still open all day and night, but now theres a
chic new ofshoot in the creative district of Colonia
Cuauhtmoc. Geometric patterns on the walls reect
the contemporary energy of a neighbourhood that
has undergone rapid transformation in recent years.
Artists and architects stop by for sweet batons of
crispy dough dusted in cinnamon sugar and served with
hot dipping chocolate. Order the Consuelo, the latest
twist on a classic: ice cream sandwiched between two
tight spirals of churros. SCARLETT LINDEMAN
elmoro.mx. Consuelos from about 2
PHOTOGRAPH: MORITZ BERNOULLY
WORLD ON A PLATE
TEMPURA
EAT ME DRINK ME
By Joanna Weinberg By Malcolm Gluck
It is a truth universally acknowledged that everyone loves deep- There is only one wine for tempura if one plays by national rules.
fried food. The Americans fry their chicken and sometimes It isnt saki rice wine that is brewed almost like beer which
their turkeys (yes, whole). The Greeks, squid; the Chinese, to my mind, at almost 20 per cent ABV, is too alcoholic for
dumplings; the Scots, Mars bars. The smartest restaurants (a the delicacy of the courgette flower here. But it is Japanese. Its
culture all of their own), ice cream. And the Japanese? Well, made from the white Koshu grape, native to Japan for donkeys
they fry food with an elegance no one else can touch. years. The most interesting examples are mostly available in
Historically, though, Japan was one of the few countries Japanese restaurants but Marks & Spencer in some ways more
without a culture of deep-frying. It wasnt until the 16th century adventurous than the smallest local wine shop run by a hairy
that Portuguese missionaries introduced it to the port of Nagasaki, nerd in sandals has an excellent specimen called Sol Lucet.
from where it quickly spread. The fritters, stuffed with minced Yes, it sounds like Manchester Uniteds latest signing, but
vegetables and fish, were originally made during Lent ad I assure you this is a crisp, elegant table wine with a nod to
tempora cuaresma (hence the name) when Christian traditions northern Italy in style and flavour. I suppose Pinot Grigio is the
forbade eating meat. Its said the great shogun Tokugawa easiest comparison to make but it has a subtle peachy hint, which
Ieyasu loved tempura so much he died of over-indulging in it. gives it a levity to balance its strait-laced citrussiness. There
One of the defining characteristics of Japanese cooking is
the inclination to respect food in its natural state. By the 18th ONLY ONE WINE WORKS HERE IF YOU
century, Japanese chefs were experimenting with frying vegetables PLAY BY NATIONAL RULES, MADE
and fish whole, using the batter to protect the ingredients
within; thus taking something utterly foreign and making it FROM A GRAPE NATIVE TO JAPAN
Japanese. And, of course, better. Tempura as we know it was born. may be branches of M&S with it on their shelves but its easiest
The batter is the key made with flour, baking powder and to go online (marksandspencer.com/wine) and order a case of
sparkling water, barely stirred together. Lumps are important, six for 78 (working out at 13 a bottle for the 2013 vintage).
exploding as they hit the hot oil to give the tempura its Perhaps, however, like me, you care not one whit for playing
characteristic misshapen appearance. In fact, chopsticks make by the rules and would prefer to drink a quirkier white wine
the ideal mixing tool as they ensure it is not over-beaten. with your tempura-battered ingredients. Or even, shall we dare
Like so much on the global food scene, tempura can leap to suggest it, a red? Let us deal with the white first. It is Weingut
across continents and straddle cultures without a wobble. One Rabls 2015 Grner Veltliner Langenlois and it is scrumptious,
of the most unlikely places I ate it was in a little beach shack in superbly balanced, demure yet not tart, hinting at stone-fruit
but with an overall finesse that is typical of the Austrian Grner
ITS SAID A GREAT JAPANESE Veltliner grape, so underrated yet so exquisite with the right
SHOGUN LOVED TEMPURA SO MUCH food. It is available for just a tenner from Corking Wines
(corkingwines.co.uk) of Yorkshire, which will deliver.
HE DIED OF OVER-INDULGING IN IT And now to our red: Vigneti del Vulture Aglianico Piano
Mexico, the fish so fresh it still tasted of the sea a small step, del Cerro 2011. Not a wine for the faint-hearted or indeed the
yet a world away from Britains salt-and-vinegared fish and chips. easily tongue-tied or parents of young children this is about
Arguably, almost anything can be tempura-ed, from a cheese as sexy as red wine can get without being obscene. Its X-rated
toastie (try it) to, more elegantly, herbs and edible flowers. The tannins, juicy as cherry liqueur, are so fresh and biting they make
Italians have a wonderful way with the first courgettes of the the wine perfect with the batter without overwhelming the
year, no bigger than a little finger, still attached to their blooms. vegetables. This wine pours as opaque as crimson tar, and coats
Sage is the herb to turn to first, its sharpness dulled into a the teeth in similar fashion. The drinkers mouth, therefore, after
mellow fragrance by frying. Here is a recipe for my favourite just one gulp and gargle, will turn terrifyingly black-fanged. So
combination of the two. The classic dipping sauce for tempura its not a good idea to experience the wine with infants in the
is tentsuyu. To make this, stir together three parts dashi with one room as they may, if you smile at them, see you as some kind of
part mirin and one part soy sauce, and grate in a little daikon vampire. Hennings Wine (henningswine.co.uk), which stocks
radish. Or just scatter the freshly battered flowers with sea salt this vivacious southern-Italian beauty, has several shops in West
and eat as quickly as possible with your fingers a less Japanese Sussex but will also deliver and a single bottle will set you back
approach but, as with much in the kitchen, enthusiasm is all. 23. Its one hell of a mouthful, whichever way you look at it.
JASON ATHERTON
The rst British chef to complete an internship at El Bulli now has 16 restaurants of his own, including Table No 1
in Shanghai and Londons Pollen Street Social. Here are some of the kitchen essentials hes found along the way
luxury by design
Take the whole family for sun and plenty of fun at the fabulous
Grand Velas Riviera Maya. Nestled next to the Yucatn jungle,
WKLVYHVWDUUHWUHDWZLWKDXQLTXHO\0H[LFDQDYRXUKDVLWVRZQ
LPPDFXODWHZKLWHVDQGEHDFKIULQJHGE\SDOPWUHHV'UHDP\
T
he soft white sands of Mexicos Yucatn 16+. Each suite is adorned with local, Mexican art
Peninsula are home to the sumptuous Grand and all have their own private plunge pool, spacious
Velas Riviera Maya, a sophisticated, exclusive, balcony with stunning views of the Caribbean Sea
all-suite resort surrounded by lush tropical jungle and enough mod cons to keep the most tech-
and elegantly landscaped gardens. The grand vision obsessed teen happy.
of two brothers, Grand Velas anticipates the upmarket
travellers every wish and gives it a unique Mexican spa and away
twist. The impeccably thought-out design means that
every age can relax in comfort and seclusion, while the There are no less than eight restaurants to choose
resorts all-inclusive philosophy means everything is from, serving everything from Mexican fine-dining
there for guests to explore. There are three distinct, to French gourmet fare, and within Grand Class are
beautifully designed suite options. If youre travelling three elegant, adults-only destination restaurants
as a couple or with older teenagers, their Grand Class including the formal French Piaf, Cocina de Autor
suites are exclusively dedicated to adults and children serving contemporary and original cuisine inspired
by local gastronomy, and the stylish Bistro. And its
not just the food that visitors return for. Grand
Velas award-winning, 27,000 square metre spa is
the ultimate retreat for some blissful, soothing
relaxation. Built over an ancient cenote (natural
well), its an opulent setting adorned with native
artwork where youll find avant-garde treatments
that use ancient Mexican healing traditions to relax For more information or to book, please visit:
tensions, restore your balance and imbue a sense of s#ARRIERCARRIERCOUKORCALL
harmony. Mayan jade, coffee and chocolate oil are s"RITISH!IRWAYS(OLIDAYSBACOMGRANDVELAS
just some of the ingredients used in the treatments, ORCALL
all of which start with their signature Hydrotherapy
Water Journey an hour-long ritual designed
around seven hydrotherapy fixtures. If its peace and
serenity in a truly sophisticated setting that you and
your family are searching for, then look no further.
FLAVOUR HUNTER
TASTE BUZZ
POKE
The craze
The Japanese used to have the market cornered
for fashionable raw fish. But then came the
wave of Peruvian ceviche. And now, the tide
has turned to the shores of Hawaii with pok:
a staple that traditionally mixes chopped
ahi tuna with limu (seaweed) and ground
kakui nuts, served on rice or greens.
Try IT
The trend first swept across the Pacific to
LA, with queues spilling out of Sweetn Pok
for its buildable bowls (add everything from
kelp noodles and kale to tropical fruit). New
Yorks freshest lunch spot is Wisesh Pok,
a one-stop shop dishing up classic (order
the West Swell) or eat-clean variations (The
Chelsea with tofu and courgette noodles).
Theres a pok menu at POND Dalston in
East London one option served on
a crispy tortilla. And just-opened Pacific
Rim restaurant Black Roe in Mayfair has a
dedicated pok bar. CHLOE SACHDEV
WRAP IT UP
The smoke will only get so far into the joint, so after a few hours, cover it in
butchers paper to nish the cooking and stop it from drying out.
PAY ONLY 29
SAVE 65% zFREE DELIVERY zNEVER MISS AN ISSUE
z
Become a subscriber and you will automatically join the Cond Nast Traveller
MEMBERS
Members Club to receive fantastic deals and special ofers every month*** CLUB
OThere is no set season: in summer lavours are more loral; in winter, more bitter. Look out for mushrooms in autumn
OMake sure you have clearly identiied your inds some innocent-looking crops can be deadly
OGarden herbs are great with gin and tonic. Edible lowers such as nasturtiums add heat and vibrant colour
OKeep an eye out for tropical-style botanicals: not many people know that gorse tastes like coconut
BOOK NOW
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX FARNUM/AUGUST
CNTRAVELLER-COCKTAIL-FORAGING.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK
Tickets are priced 40 and include a foraging session followed by a cocktail masterclass and canaps, with a goodie
bag to take home. There are 12 tickets available for each day. For more information on The Botanist, visit thebotanist.com
The Canal Saint-Martin area of Pariss 10th arrondissement has been the epicentre of the citys creative classes
for nearly a decade. Now the latest wave of cool openings has washed over once-sleepy rue des Vinaigriers
9AM coffee
Caf Craft, No 24
Co-working is still a relatively new concept in the
French capital, but this graphic, monochromatic space
is where MacBook-toting freelancers start their day over
espressos made with beans from Parisian roasters Lomi.
Buy a cup or pay by the hour for access to Wi-Fi and
a seat at the communal table. cafe-craft.com
10AM Breakfast
Libert, No 39
Atop the marble counter of this brilliant bakery, right, from
master pastry chef Benot Castel are delicate tarts and
jewel-like fancies. Their prettiness contrasts with the raw
interiors. Opt for perfect madeleines or go for full-on
indulgence with Castels famous tarte la crme.
libertepatisserieboulangerie.com
12.30PM LUNCH
The Sunken Chip, No 39
How do Parisians do sh and chips? In this trendy
metro-tiled restaurant with line-caught haddock or
coley from Saint-Jean-de-Luz and thick, hand-cut,
double-cooked frites. If youre not married to
tradition, swap the classic for a hake burger or
monksh nuggets coated in panko breadcrumbs,
along with a local craft beer. thesunkenchip.com
6PM Aperitif
Piccoli Cugini, No 34
The areas go-to pizza joint doubles as a pre-dinner spot
for a turned-out crowd with bigger plans. Join them in
sipping spritzes and Italian wines while tucking into
plates of burrata and Parma ham. piccoli-cugini.fr
PRESENTS
travellers tales
ABOUT MICHAEL PORTILLO: Having dabbled in journalism while still an MP, the former deputy leader of
the Conservative Party left politics in 2005. His love for train travel led to his hit BBC series Great British
Railway Journeys, for which he criss-crossed the UK with a 1913 Bradshaws Guide looking at how towns had
changed since it was written. Next he visited Europe in Great Continental Railway Journeys, and in his latest
adventure, which aired in January, he used a 1879 copy of Appletons General Guide to the US railroads
to explore how the 19th-century train network helped the country grow into an international superpower.
BOOK NOW
TRAVELLERS-TALES.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK
Tickets are 45 and include a Hudson Whiskey cocktail, a glass of wine or beer, canaps and a goodie bag.
WRIST
ESSENTIAL
SALT
Resort wear shop Salt has
SND launched a new multi-brand
Hydrating Face Spray, boutique on Walton Street. Mara
24, sondskin.com Hofman, Lace Up Side One
Piece in Rainbow Roll, 200,
saltresortwear.com
SUMMER TAKEOVER
Tune in to Cond Nast Traveller's sunshine state of mind with some of
the latest experiences, places to stay and style and beauty picks
TWO CHEF TREAT
Chefs Alain Ducasse and Tom Kerridge Dr Sebagh Supreme Day Cream,
are collaborating on a one-off, exclusive 145, drsebagh.com
Sunday lunch experience at the
Hand & Flowers in Marlow.
Taking place on 3 July, the fab feast will WELLBEING
THIS WORKS involve a four-course menu comprising
WONDERS
Perfect Legs Sculpt & Shine, alternate dishes prepared by both chefs.
Tickets are 80 and include a glass of EDIT...
28, thisworks.com sydre from Eric Bordelet.
thehandandowers.co.uk
Vichy
Idal Soleil
Double Usage
After-Sun, 13,
INDEED LABS boots.com The Braun Silk-Expert IPL
Vitamin C24, continually adapts to your skin tone
24.99, boots.com during use for safe, long-lasting hair
removal, 399.99, boots.com
GIDDY UP
In-between holidays and in need of entertainment?
The Investec Derby is the Worlds Greatest Flat Race
and this year it has announced Eleanor Tomlinson
as its Ambassador. Ladies Day tickets from 13.50,
Derby Day from 15 epsomderby.co.uk
OUR MAN
ON THE GROUND
Samsonite
Cosmolite, 339,
samsonite.com
Aubade moulded plunge
coconut grove bikini top
88.95 and coconut grove,
Brazilian brief, 48.95,
rigbyandpeller.com Sisley Phyto Touch Illusion
dt, 66.50, sisley-paris.co.uk
Moorea swim
shorts, 200, unexpectedly delicious. I also love
vilebrequin.com the Dodds Gin from our Green
Bar Botanicals & Tonics, served
with Fever-Tree Mediterranean
tonic, fresh chillies and lemon peel.
What reservation is more
Dolce & Gabbana Modern Monterey requested right now? The top
short-length printed wave print three are Sexy Fish, Chiltern
swim shorts, 245, board short, Firehouse and Restaurant Ours.
mrporter.com 50, landsend.co.uk
hotelcaferoyal.com
Dream Destinations Dream Destinations Dream Destinations
EUROPE-UK EUROPE ASIA
RESORT RIO
If you are looking at taking a luxurious
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial vacation without feeling a pinch in your
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous pocket, head to Resort Rio, the No. 1 Five
LESARRAIL Star Deluxe Resort in North Goa. Nestled
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds, Set amongst the vineyards of the
butterflies, flowers, horses and carriages on the banks of the Baga river with the
Malpere, a beautiful wine growing area in famous salt pans of Goa beyond, Resort
no cars how could one not enjoy this the south of France, you will find
amazing paradise? You will find this hotel Rio is conveniently located, close to
LeSarrail, a hamlet of 4 luxury houses Goas renowned night markets, beaches
to have a great joie de vivre as well as sharing their own heated pool, with
terrific food. La Sablonnerie has recently and restaurants. This charming resort
panoramic views of unspoilt countryside boasts of opulent Royal Suites of over
received the highly coveted award from and a backdrop of the Pyrnes
Cond Nast JohansenS - Small Hotel of 1100 sq. ft. and is the only resort in Goa
mountains. to have 3 and 4 bedroom villas, some with
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com www.lesarrail.com
or call 01481 832 061. plunge pools. With an array of specialized
+33 (0) 468 765 966 restaurants including an ethnic veg
restaurant which over the years has
become the pride of Goa, Resort Rio is a
foodies paradise. Whats more its award
winning Zaara Spa and wellness centre
makes this quaint resort a perfect retreat.
Whether it is a family holiday, romantic
getaway or a destination wedding, Resort
Rio will prove to be your ideal bet.
Visit www.ResortRio.com or
call +91 9922708780
for more information.
CHTEAU RIEUTORT
MILL HOUSE LUXURY COTTAGES Set in beautiful south of France, this 18th
Nestled between the breathtaking century chteau and wine domain offers
Yorkshire Dales and Lake District National an unforgettable escape for a maximum
Parks, Mill House Luxury Cottages offer a of 55 guests. With Chateau suites and
unique opportunity to explore this idyllic self-catering gtes, you can enjoy 2
area. The cottages offer superior Four and
Five star Gold self-catering holiday
swimming pools, the Hrault river and
extraordinary wine. www.chateau-rieutort.fr
Dream Destinations
accommodation to which youll return time T: +33 4 67 89 38 20
and time again. Book your peaceful retreat
in this unspoilt countryside at
www.millhousecottages.co.uk
AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN
T: 015242 76500
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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE
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Tel: 39 081 8101564 hotelvillasanmicheleravello@gmail.com
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Neos Marmaras
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www.pinodiloto.gr
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0030 22810 71504 www.villa10greece.com
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Discover Le Marche
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Unforgettable Holidays at
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Cambodia
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CREEKSIDE COTTAGES
The Foreshore, Nr Falmouth,
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bends away. Everyone has stayed here, from the Taylor-Burtons to Maria Callas and Sophia Loren, and interesting people
(diplomats, artists, actresses who shun the limelight rather than hog it) still do. Book the white, cream and silver Diaghilev suite,
which has double doors that open on to a small balcony, with the bay of Positano at your feet. And although the price is hardly
chump change it includes all drinks, which means cocktails any time you want them in wafer-thin Murano glasses. Wander into
the kitchen and the chef will whip up whatever you fancy whenever you fancy it, using fresh produce from Tre Villes gardens. In a
spoilt life full of lovely terraces, there isnt a more heavenly one than this: heart-stopping views down to the water, and the lights
of the Amal Coast play like muted piano notes in the distance. villatreville.com. Doubles from about 590 JEREMY WAYNE