Marialena Evrenoglou

Thessa oniki
View of the gulf from
the old port.

3
4
Statue of Alexander the
Great, at the new
waterfont.

5
6
An ode to the city of Thessaloniki,
through the eyes of a local.

7
12 16
FACTS TIMELINE

60 62
THE COMMUNITIES KALAMARIA

87
CITY & THE ARTS
102
STREET GRAFFITI
24 58
OTTOMAN
IN 12 WORDS
LEGACY

66 76
FOOD RECIPES
09

114 116
MY CORNER ARCHITECTURE
09
The Ksarchakos Fountain

10
11
10 FACTS ABOUT
1.1 million
2 23
nd largest
city population
centuries
of history

300 days 15 UNESCO

12
of sunshine monuments
 THESSALONIKI
20
(you probably didn't know)

Museums Named after

+ 35 Alexanders the Great
sister Ranked
Theaters
#47 in N.Y
Longest urban Home of Times'
" 50 Places
waterfront Greeces To Go In 2016"
in Europe biggest
university 13
halara
take it easy

14
15
 Timeline
315 BC: Thessaloniki is creat-
ed by
Kassandros, who names it af-
ter his wife, Thessalonike, who
was Alexander the Greats
half-sister.
16
Of
50 A.D.: St. Paul 293- 305: The Complex of Roman
arrives Emperor Galerius is built. Galerius
and establishes is a caesar of one of the four Roman
the first Christian Empire during Tetrarchy. He makes
community. Thessaloniki his center and deco-
rates it with public buildings.
148 BC: Thessaloniki
becomes the capital of
the Roman
District of Macedonia.
322: Emperor Constan-
tine builds a new port
outside the city walls.
380: Theodosius the Great
is baptized in Thessalon-
iki and fortifies the citys
walls.
 Thessaloniki
1185: The Normans
occupy the city for 3 1387: The city is occu-
months. pied by the Ottomans but
reverts to the Byzantines
in 1403, before being
sold to the Republic of
Venice in 1423.

1387 1403: First Ottoman

occupation period.

616: Unsuccessful attack

by the Avars.
1492: Around 30,000 Jews 17
settle in Thessaloniki after
being expelled by Spain.
 Timeline Of
1688: Unsuccessful
attempt by the Venetians
to take 1890: A big fire
Thessaloniki. destroys the center of
Thessaloniki.
1876: The old waterfront Para-
1821: Greek War of Indepen-
lia pier is constructed; it will be
dence begins in southern
extended towards the sea in the
Greece.
1890s.
Thousands of Greeks are
slaughtered in Thessaloniki.

18
 Thessaloniki
1926: The 1st
Thessaloniki
International Trade is
held. The University of
Thessaloniki is found.

1912: Outbreak of the First Balkan

Bar. On October 26th,
Thessaloniki is liberated by the Greek
army. Its population reaches 158,000.

1923: Due to the Treaty of Lau-

sanne, a mass amount of refu-
gees arrives in the city. The citys
1917: An even bigger fire occurs in the Muslim inhabitants leave T
center of Thessaloniki, and destroys hessaloniki.
half of it. French architect Ernest He-
brard is asked to re-construct it. He 19
creates a monumental axis and what is
now known as Aristotles Square.
 Timeline Of
1941-1944: Thessaloniki is occu- 1960: The Film Festival opens for the first
pied by the Germans. time; it becomes the Thessaloniki
International Film Festival in 1992.

1970: The Hellenic

Telecommunications Organi-
zation (OTE) Tower is built.
20 1949: The church of Saint Deme-
trius, the citys patron saint, is
re-constructed after several years
of work.
 Thessaloniki

1978, June 20th: A strong earthquake

of 6.5 Richter shocks the city causing
many damages and victims.

1989: UNESCO lists 15 of the

citys early Christian/ Byzan-
2014: Thessalonikis year as
tine monuments as World
the European Youth Capital.
Heritage Sites, icluding the
Rotonta.

21
 Niki's Boulevard
22
Pro tip: Most roads in the city center are either parallel or perpendicular
to the sea. A simple rule that helps the visitor is that if the a street goes
downhill, by following it, it will lead you to the sea. The biggest paral-
lel streets to the sea starting from the sea are Nikis, Tsimiski, Ermou,
Egnatia, Agiou Dimitriou and Kassandrou avenues. The important
streets leading to the sea, starting from northwest, are Ionos Dragoumi,
Venizelou, the pedestrian streets Aristotelous and Hagia Sophia and 23
Ethinikis Amynis avenues.
T For Thermaikos

24
A narrow strip of broadwalking, an even smaller bike lane, one paved road almost always
overfilled with cars honking, and tall, cemented buildings. That is the most classical postcard
of my city. I make it round awful, right? Well, it's not like that. The "old bay" or "waterfront" is
one of the most famous and lively streets of the city. Although not always there, the bay has
become Thessaloniki's trademark and an integral part of everyday life.

Recently rennovated in 2007, the "Old Bay", as Thessalonians like to call it, was created dut-
ing the Ottoman era, when king was Sampras Passas from Smyrnia. At the time, it was decid-
ed to transform the city from chaotic and dirty to the most modern of the Empire. The urgent
nned for expansion of the port, the risks of public health, and the economic benefits were
the main reasons to tear down the wall that used to seperate the city from the sea. After that,
the structure of the city would change forever. The inauguration took place in 1870, and the
marble that was used was brought from Naples. Until 1950, the waterfront was used for tying
small boats, but nowadays even cruise ships stop by. The bay has played a major role in the
history of the city, where military parades have been held for national holidays, or even pro-
test marches.

25
H For Hortiatis
H ortiatis (properly spelled Chortiatis) is
the name of the mountain that "hugs" Thessaloni-
ki, especially the area that I am from, Panorama. It
is located southeast of Thessaloniki and although
only 1,201 meters high, it stands out. Just 27 ki-
lometers from the city center on the road to Poly-
gyros, after leaving Nea Redestos and the Ther-
mi springs behind, turn left and follow the sign to
Peristera. Mount Chortiatis played a crucial role for
the water supply of Thessaloniki from ancient up
until modern times. In the late Byzantine period
(ca. 1300), the Chortaitis monastery on the north-
ern slopes of the mountain provided the city and
the region east of it with fresh water by an aque-
duct whose remains have been partly preserved.
For me, Chortaitis has a different mean-
ing. It reminds me of my childhood, when my par-
ents would take me and my brother on mini ex-
cursions on the weekends to have a picnic, lay out
in the sun, and play games. Now, it's my "go-to"
sign that I am home. Whenever I land in Thessa-
loniki, I see the mountain and think to myself "my
house is right up there, just 15 minutes away". Sim-
ilarly, whenever we come back from a roadtrip,
I can see it from miles away and as it gets big-
ger and bigger, I know that I will be home soon.
27
E For Egnatia Street
I t is the most misunderstood of the
central leoforous of the Center and let's
crossed by establishing the city from
one end to the other, even if it sepa-
rates the city in half. The Thessalonians
did not prefer their walks, especially in
recent decades as well as the inexpen-
sive market attracted tourists LOW bud-
gets from Eastern Europe. Can nobody
passes daily from Egnatia and not no-
ticed the beautiful buildings that caught
BETWEEN highrise apartment building.
Figure Egnatia but also the opinion that
the Thessalonians have for her can only
be changed with the launch of the mea-
sure, which however are made for de-
cades.

28
 Photo credits: Lucas Cleophas

the
et's
om
pa-
ans
y in
en-
ud-
ody
no-
ght
ng.
that
only
mea-
de-

29
Photo credits: typosthes.gr
S For Souvlaki
I f I had a dollar for everytime someone yelled at me "SOU-
VLAKI!" when I told them I was from Greece, I would prob-
ably be able to afford a trip to the Bahamas right now. Sou-
vlaki is undoubtly the first thing that comes to mind when
thinking of Greek food. Not only is it delicious and simple
to make, it is also very cheap which makes it a favorite for
Greeks. You are most likely to find it at street food stands, the
gyradika, or at meat-based taverns called psitopolio. You can
either order them by the piece, or have a whole portion of
them (usually 4-5 souvlakis) with some fries on the side. The
souvlaki originally was made with pork meat, but nowadays
it is very common to find chicken or beef souvlaki, or even
Photo credits: www.souvlakistreet.co.uk
a vegeterian version, so when you order, make sure to spec-
ify what type of meat you want. Be careful though; souvlaki Photo Credit: igourmet.gr
has a completely different meaning in Thessaloniki than it
does in southern Greece. For Thessalonians, the souvlaki is
just the meat skewer, whereas for Athenians souvlaki means
the whole sandwich. If you decide to have it in a sandwich,
you can either choose your own ingredients, or you could
say you want it "apola", which means your sandwich will have
frie, tomatoes, tzatziki sauce, and onions.

30
Photo Credit: Serious Eats 31
S For Seich Sou
A lso known as the forest of the "Thou-
sand Trees," Seich Sou reminds every kid
of Thessaloniki of field trips in elementrary
school. The forest of Sheikh Sou, meaning
the "Sheik's water", was named at the time
of occupation by the Turks. It is located
northeast of the city, between Thessaloni-
ki and Panorama. This is an artificial forest,
which was started in 1929 with continuous
tree-planting. Today it expands over 30
million square meters, however what's im-
portant for runners is its forest routes, with
a total length of 170 km.

Access by public transportation is easy,

as some buses, such as no. 23, start from
the center of town and run along the ring,
which contains several entrances, with
parking spots in many of them. Alternative-
ly, you can use the "trail" that starts from
Kaftantzoglio Stadium between Skoufa and
Tsakalof streets and reaches the forest in
less than 10 minutes.

The forrest is near the Kaftantzoglio Sta-

dium, making this a first class opportunity
for warm-up and recovery in the Stadium's
Photo credits: dasologoi.gr
grass.
32
33
A for Aristotle's Square
A ristotle's Square is without a doubt the most famous square in all of Thessaloniki. They
say, "Everything happens for a reason," and that can definitely be applied in this particular square.
Due to a big fire in 1917 that destroyed most of the city center, the whole center had to be re-con-
structed, as it left 70,000 people homeless.
So, the goverment -then led by Eleutherios Venizelos- established an international commit-
tee that they later called the "Hbrard Committee". The committee consisted of two city planners
- Ernest Hbrard from France and Thomas Mawson from England-, the engineer Jean Pleimper,
the architect Aristotle Zachos, and others. Part of the Commission's initial draft was a large boule-
vard that would stretch from the waterfront of the Aristotle's Square until Kassandra's street.
Nowadays where there is the ancient market, there would be a grandiose square with the
town hall, police, and courts of the city (that's why the are above Egnatia street is called "the
square of the courts") all together. Eventually the project was implemented only in Aristotle's
square. Even there it was long overdue, as the square was finally completed in early 1960.

34
35
36
T he precise location of Thessaloniki city center is
open to debate. Most visitors will tell you it is bustling
Aristotelous Square, which opens onto the sea front,
where one can see the White Tower on the left and the
old port on the right. However, when locals refer to the
center they normally mean the historical center of
Thessaloniki which, surprisingly, does not include the
waterfront, which they view as a distinct area referred to
locally as the paralia (seashore).

The citys inner center is steeped in history. The range of

architectural styles reflects its Greek, Roman, Byzantine
and Ottoman past. Over the centuries, the wider region
has been occupied by a number of diverse cultures,
each of which has left its own distinctive mark. Visitors
can easily explore the beating heart of the city, stretch-
ing from Venizelou Street in the west to the iconic White
Tower in the east.

With Eleftherias Square right next to the port as your

starting point, your exploration gets off to an emo-
tion-charged beginning. The square has a tragic past,
for it is the place where the citys Jewish population,
roughly one-third of its inhabitants, was rounded up
in 1942, before being deported to Nazi concentration
camps. A memorial at the southeast end of the square
commemorates their terrible fate. Before you leave the
square, take a moment to look at the iconic Stein build-
ing on the corner of Venizelou and Kalapothaki streets.
This could provide one of your best Instagram mo-
ments, along with several other neoclassical buildings 37
in the same district.
The "Electra Palace" Hotel

38
The square is always
filled with people -and
pigeons- of all ages.
Many concerts are held
here and during Christ-
mas the square turns
into a Christmas market.

39
L For Ladadika

40
L adadika is the small area near
the old port where you can find a
bunch of restaurants that celebrate
delicious, heartful, local dishes, all
in cheap prices too.

The old market of the port of Thessa-

loniki, which had become the center
of trade between the East and the
West, operated where there is the
Byzantine port. During the Turkish
occupation, and after Greece's in-
dependence, it was substandard. It
was named "Ladadika" because of
the ground-floor shops and ware-
houses where they stored oils and
other products.
At the time of World War I and
later, the area was known to be a "red
light district". It was in acne even af-
ter WWII, but began to decline af-
ter the earthquake of 1978, where
many old, historic buildings were
ruined. In the 1980s, the area was al-
most abandoned after trading went
down. The neighborhood gained a
bad reputation and at night it was 41
dangerous to walking through, al-
 The buildings in Ladadika are made
of stone or brick and Flemish dark
wood- mainly on the roofs and
joinery.

42
though located in the center of the
city- something unheard of nowa-
days as every night the area is lively
until the early hours.
In 1985, by order of the Minis-
try of Culture and the municipality,
the area was declared a protected
monument and banned the build-
ing of condominiums. The regener-
ation studies did address the Envi-
ronment, Physical Planning Region
of Central Macedonia.
Now the area has become a
massive scenery of entertainment,
since one can find all kinds of restau-
rants, bars and clubs. Expensive or
cheap restaurants, clubs that play
Greek or foreign music, live music
or djs.

Egypt Street,
Ladadika's main
street 43
O For Olympion
Olympion Cinema has always been the historical
Photo credits: View Thessaloniki
hub of the Festival, as it has been hosting it since
1960. This impressive building, which has seen
hundreds of events, conferences, workshops and
presentations, was announced as the official, per-
manent venue of the Film Festival in 1998, follow-
ing a restoration and renovation of the premises.
In this complex are housed two renovated cine-
mas, the "Olympion" and "Pavlols Zannas", the
Thessaloniki International Film Festival offices,
and the two cafes "Room With a View" and "Foy-
er". Located on Aristotelous Square, the building
was designed by French architect Jacques Mosset,
to whom we owe many local buildings of the in-
terwar era. It mirrors Electra Palace hotel, which
stands opposite it, and follows the architectural
style of Aristotelous squares. In total, Olympion
features six floors, two caf-bars and two cinema
theaters, with a capacity of 676 and 192 respective-
ly. It also functions as exhibition, conference, pre-
sentation and workshop venue. The Festival also
uses the John Cassavetes, Tonia Marketaki, Stavros
Tornes and Frida Liappa cinema theaters at the
Thessaloniki Port.

44
45
N for Navarinou
G alerius marriage to Diocletians
daughter, as well as the successful mil-
itary campaigns that resulted in the
defeat of the Persians, anointed him
Caesar. He in turn chose Thessaloniki as
the administrative and religious center
of his crown. This is the reason for the
reigning image of the region today: its
distinct echoes not only of Rome, but
also of Paris. In fact, in no other neigh-
borhood will you find as many creper-
ies and hole-in-the wall bars and cafs.

It is in the square that young people

spend most of their time: eating, drink-
ing, flirting and bestowing on the area
yet another identity: a hotbed of bohe-
mianism and liberality as if, instead of
the Thermaic Gulf, we were to find the
Left Bank of the Seine just a few yards
away.

46
47
 I For Iktinou

Photho credits: Kyramarw Photography

I ktinou Street is a pedestrian street in the center of Thessaloniki. It starts from Maken-
zie King Street, in the Jn. St. Sophia and ends at Tsimiski Street. It intersects with Zeuxix
Street, where some of Thessaloniki's most famous cafes are concentrated.
Iktinou stood for about 30 years ago and is one of the most popular destinations, es-
pecially for its student cities as well as for people in the alternative. On the pedestrian
48 street is also the ION. Of Timios Prodromos [2] as well as schools 41st Primary and 2nd
High School of Thessaloniki.
 Photo credit: greekguide.com

49

Photo credit: greekguide.com

K For kamara
T he arches, one of the most important landmarks of
Thessaloniki is part of an extensive complex palaces with
history. Late 3rd and early 4th century, Caesar Valerius
Maximilian took over the administration of the Balkans, af-
ter having managed to defeat the Persians in 297 AD. He
chose Thessaloniki as his empire's capital and expressed
its interest in a variety of ways, deciding to build at the be-
ginning of the 4th century in the south east, a huge palace
complex. It had an area of 150 acres. The buildings would
reach the rotunda as the sea and the eastern wall of the
city as the area between Navarinou Square and Hagia So-
phia. The complex contained a rotunda (temple or mauso-
leum), the triumphal arch and palaces whole broth were
attached octagon and races.
It was built in the late 3rd century to symbolize the victory
of Galerius. It is still standing tall today in the western part
with two large central pillars and a smaller, as well as two
of the original openings. The Arc has over the reliefs - an
anthem to the military successes of galeriou- Unfortunate-
ly have suffered significant damage from air pollution.
Today, Kamara is mostly known among college students,
because not only is it a meeting point, but it's very close to
the universities, and it's filled with cheap restaurants and
cafes.
50
Photo credits: Wikimedia
Rotunda
The Rotunda, built in the early 4th century, is an
ancient impressive roman monument. It was first
constructed as a mausoleum for the Emperor
Galerius. It was part of the impressive building
complex which included the Galerius Palace (Na-
varinou Square), the Hippodrome, the Arch of
Galerius (Kamara) and other buildings in Thessa-
loniki. In the end of the 4th century, the Emperor
Theodosius the Great (379-395), was baptised as
Christian in Thessaloniki and converted the mau-
soleum into a Christian church. During the Turk-
ish occupation, it was turned into a mosque and
the minaret, which stands in front of it, was built in
1591. After the liberation of the city in 1912, the
building was re-tranformed into a Cristian church
under the name of Saint George.
Photo credit: Ben Sedin, youtube,com

51
I for IFFT
T he Thessaloniki International Film Festival is
the top film festival of South Eastern Europe, the
presentation platform for the year's Greek pro-
ductions, and the primary and oldest festival in
the Balkans for the creations of emerging film
makers from all over the world. Founded in 1960
as the Week of Greek Cinema, it became inter-
national in 1992, including a Competition Sec-
tion for feature length films by emerging direc-
tors presenting their first or second film.

Since then, the Thessaloniki International Film

Festival, constantly evolving, has claimed and
achieved a constantly increasing international
scope, presenting the most groundbreaking in-
dependent productions from the entire world,
and developing activities for international film industry professionals. Since the mid 1990s, the Thessaloniki International
Film Festival, going beyond the borders set for decades by its centerpiece November edition, has become an organiza-
tion with continuously increasing cultural activities throughout the year.

Through its new form and activities, the Thessaloniki International Film Festival has established close collaborations with
various local, national, regional and international film institutions, cultural, educational and social organizations, as well as
embassies and cultural agencies from other countries.

52
Photo credit: Thessaloniki International Film Festival

53
54
55
56
57
Ottoman Legacy As we enter the building, were all caught up in the sight of
an unobstructed soaring space and in the glittering mosa-
ics. Then our guide Tassos Papadopoulos passes around
a portrait of a celebrity visitor guesses abound, none of
them correct. It turns out to be Herman Melville. Layers of
history collapse on each other; the author of Moby Dick
came in 1856 and later wrote of standing right here with

T
stones in his trouser pockets, stones that had fallen from
these very mosaics. We gaze up at that same ceiling. Thes-
he Ottoman presence lingers, especially in the upper town
saloniki has a way of making the past feel very close.
with its winding paths and traditional houses with their canti-
levering upper stories. Water still flows from public fountains
Why would the city have such scarce evidence of nearly
with Arabic inscriptions and, at the edge of a shady square,
five centuries of Ottoman rule? The Ottomans themselves
you may come upon a tourbe (tomb) of a Sufi holy man.
were never in the majority at times they accounted for
only a quarter of the population. Their building needs,
The Romans left stunning monuments a triumphal arch, an
never very great to begin with, were largely met by what
Agora, a Rotunda. Then the Byzantines built a wealth of early
was already here. The Panaghia Acheiropoietos (Church
Christian churches, and the walls of the upper city now so
of the Virgin Not Made by Human Hands) became the
picturesque that ultimately failed to keep the Ottomans out.
Old Friday Mosque, named for the service of thanksgiv-
The Ottoman architectural presence is more subtle.
ing for victory. An inscription on one of the columns leg-
ible still commemorates the taking of the city by Murad
For Thessalonikis urban scale, the Rotunda is massive 24,5m
II. This mosque continued to serve as the center of Islamic
wide and 29,8m high. Its easily likened to the slightly older
spiritual life.
(and larger) Roman Pantheon. Not long after Galerius had it
built, the Rotunda became the Church of Aghios Georgios.
One is the Aladja Imaret (1484) a jewel-box hidden by
It stayed a Christian place of worship until 1591, when it was
the mid-20th century apartment buildings surrounding
dedicated as the Mosque of Suleyman Hortaji Effendi (acquir-
it. Even if you came up on it by chance, you might keep
ing the minaret, the fountain for ritual cleansing outside the
walking the broad porch is unremarkable, and except
entrance, and a plaque in Arabic above the door).
for the muqarnas above the door, there is little hint to
the buildings character. The splendor of the inside takes
you entirely by surprise. Two domed chambers the front
one a meeting area, the back one a prayer hall are filled
with intricate niches and arabesques. Much of the original
58
painting is gloriously intact, as are segments of inscriptions on the walls. The name evokes both the look and
purpose of the structure. Aladja means many-colored and refers to the stones that adorned the minaret
that once stood outside, a vestige of an ornate Persian architectural style unusual in this part of the Islamic
world. An Imaret is a house of charity the mosque served as school, soup kitchen and prayer hall. Now a
space for exhibitions and performances, the mosque has known other uses as well: a man following the tour
with us shared his own history of the Imaret as a boy, he was entrusted with the key to the building, a great
heavy thing of iron, he said. He was given the key as head of his boy scout troop. The Imaret was to be their
new den, and he recalled unlocking the door for the first time after perhaps decades of disuse and finding
it much as we see it today, but with fully half a meter of undisturbed dust inside.

We come to a clearing with a fabulous vista Aristotelous Square and the ruins of the Roman Agora, the shim-
mering bay and, beyond that, a trace of the white peaks of Mount Olympus. The Church of Aghios Dimitrios,
with its shrine to the citys patron saint, is in a choice location. Sultan Byazid II dedicated it to Islam in 1493,
and it became the Kasimiye Mosque. Kasimiye is the Muslim incarnation of St. Dimitrios. His tomb was kept
open for both faiths, and Christians continued to worship him here, with rituals performed by the Hodja.

Did you know that the White Tower,

Thessaloniki's most famous landmark
was actually used as a prison during
the Turkish Occupation?

59
The different communi The Jewish Community
Though now small, the community maintains its place as a vital
part of the citys history. Thessaloniki used to be home to one of the
largest Jewish communities in Greece until the middle of World War II.
For centuries, it remained the only city of its size in the Jewish diaspo-
ra with a majority Jewish population. The Jewish presence in Thessa-
loniki has been present since the foundation of the city. The high point
of their presence was the settlement of thousands of Jewish refugees
from the Iberian Peninsula in 1492. The influence of the community led
to the city being nicknamed la madre de Israel, or mother of Israel.
The Jewish community played an important role in making Thessalon-
iki into a commercial and cultural center. Unfortunately, that changed
during World War II. During the German occupation of Thessaloniki,
96 percent of the citys Jewish population was exterminated at the
Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps while many of the buildings
were destroyed. These tragic events saw some 60,000 member of the
citys Jewish community perish, and nearly destroyed the communitys
presence in the city completely. The survivors of Thessalonikis Jewish
community not only chose to remain in the city, but they rallied to
form a small but vibrant part of the citys fabric.
Nowadays, the Jewish community of Thessaloniki numbers
around 1,200 and is an integral part of the local society. The commu-
nity restored most of its functions and currently maintains the Jewish
Museum of Thessaloniki, three synagogues, an elementary school, a
choir, a summer camp and a home for the elderly. Most recently, fol-
lowing a long-standing request of the Jewish community, the Aristo-
tle University of Thessaloniki founded the Chair of Jewish Studies, an
initiative promoting academic research into the citys expansive and
well-established Jewish heritage.
The French Influence
France and Thessaloniki are particularly close long
before the citys unification with Greece in 1912. The rea-
son behind has frequently been the dissemination of the
French language and culture through education and
cultural exchanges. The city boasts French-language ed-
ucational institutions, private schools run by the Catho-
lic Church, the Jean-Baptiste de la Salle School, and the
Jewish Community School, all of which helped establish
the French language as a vital communication tool in a
truly cosmopolitan city. This relationship was strength-
ened further when Jews from Thessaloniki migrated to
France. A second wave followed during World War I, and
since then France has been an integral part of Thessa-
lonikis cultural landscape. Needless to say, Thessaloni-
kis love of good food, good wine and good life finds a
perfect match in French joie de vivre. French influences
are in evidence all over the city, you probably pass by it
everyday without realizing it. Thessalonikis main cultur-
al and social center, Aristotle Square, was designed by
French architect Ernest Hbrard after the Great Fire of
1917, which destroyed two thirds of the city.
Frances rich association with the city has been
maintained and further developed by the Consulate
General for over 300 years, and by the French Institute
and French School for over 100 years. Events in histo-
ry have bestowed a shared identity on Thessaloniki and
France which both sides are keen to maintain.
unitites of Thessaloniki
The German Community
Thessaloniki has had a strong history of German in-
fluences which were well established before the events of
the World Wars and have weathered the strained relations
between Greece and Germany on account of the econom-
ic roller coaster of recent years. Today, there are numerous
examples of German influence in the citys cultural and ar-
chitectural landscape. The German consulate has existed in
Thessaloniki since 1887, when the citys commercial boom at-
tracted traders from northern Europe. The Goethe Institute in
Thessaloniki was established in 1955, with activities focusing
on the promotion and dissemination of the German language
and culture. The institute is presently housed in premises
once used by the German School of Thessaloniki. In 2015, the
institute celebrated its 60th anniversary at the recently reno-
vated building. Educational institutes also play an important
role in strengthening the citys historic ties with Germany. The
German School of Thessaloniki, founded in 1888, is one of
the citys most respected internationinstitutions and provides
education to over 500 students annually from kindergarten
through to high school. Beyond business and education, Ger-
man influences in Thessaloniki extend also to the social and
spiritual. In addition to its religious functions, the German
Evangelical Church in Thessaloniki, founded in 1895, offers
social services covering many areas.
The Armenian Community
The Armenian community of Thessaloniki, con-
sidered to be one of the oldest in the wider northern
Greek region, has remained highly active over the years.
Through history, the presence of Armenians in the city
has ebbed and flowed, making them an important part
of the citys identity today. The Armenian community re-
mained a small but significant part of life in Thessaloniki
until the Armenian Genocide by the Turks in 1915 and
the Asia Minor Catastrophe of 1922. The combination of
these two events led to a large influx of Armenian refu-
gees from Asia Minor seeking safety. In 1946 and 1947,
the citys Armenian community was dramatically reduced
as a result of the repatriation of many members to Sovi-
et-ruled Armenia. In 1987, the Armenian Cultural Center
of Thessaloniki was founded, which acts as the home of
all things Armenian.
Over the years, the Armenian Community of Thes-
saloniki has maintained an integral role in the citys mul-
ticultural life, contributing vibrantly and creatively to so-
cial, commercial, and cultural activities but unfortunately
the number has decreased in the recent years. The com-
munity relies on its enthusiastic band of volunteers and
the support of its members to keep alive Armenian his-
tory, language, traditions, customs, culture, as well as
national pride, combining the love for two homelands,
Greece and Armenia, in perfect harmony.
61
Kalamaria
Kalamari (Greek: ) is a municipality of the
Thessaloniki Urban Area, located about 7 kilometres south-
east of the center. It is the second largest municipality of
the Thessaloniki Urban Area as well as one of the largest in
Greece, with a population increase of 13% since 1991.
The name Kalamaria was first used in 1083 to de-
note the area southeast of Thessaloniki, including but not
limited to the area of the present-day municipality. During
the Byzantine and the Ottoman periods, the area was most-
ly uninhabited, except for a few fishing lodges. The area
gained more popularity in the 1920s when refugees from
the Greek Diaspora were forced to leave Turkey and come
back to Greece due to the Greco-Turkish war. Refugees of
Pontic descent mainly relocated in Kalamaria, and the mu-
nicipality's population is predominantly of Pontic descent to
this day. Though it was originally separated from the main
City of Thessaloniki, the municipality has grown so much in
the post-war period that the older physical boundaries are
virtually non-existent. Nowadays, the border between the
two municipalities exists purely for administrative purposes.
62
Nea Krini is a different, perhaps more elegant zone
next to Kalamaria located on the eastern part of the city,
approximately 25 minutes away from Thessaloniki's center.
Some well-known and appreciated restaurants and fish-tav-
erns can be found in the area, most of them located along
the coastal avenue Aretsou. There, you can take relaxing
walks and enjoy the wonderful view of the sea (especially
during the sunset) or go down to the "marina" and walk
along the small harbor. The center of Kalamaria has sev-
eral beautiful bars, cafe and shops. It is ideal if you wish to
spend some time outside the center of Thessaloniki while
part of it is accessible to pedestrians only. It is considered
one of the most interesting places, especially during the
summer months. Prices are generally considered reason-
able, although a number of coffee shops and restaurants
are more expensive compared to the ones in the center
In this area, refugees from the
Asia Minor Catastrophe from
the mainly Greek populated
coastal town which is now
called Darica (in Turkey) were
resettled.

63
 HOW TO GET THERE:
You can either take the 5 or 6 bus from Aristot-
le's Square. Personally I would suggest to start
your walk from the White Tower, so you enjoy
the sea and the "Nea Paralia", aka the new part
of the waterfront that was recently renovated.
On your way there, stop by the "Umbrellas"
sculpture -made by George Zongolopoulos- to
take pictures. Furthermore, if you are feeling
fancy, pay a visit to the Music Hall, or just stop
to admire the architecture of the building.

64
65
 FOOD
Thessalonikis cuisine is widely known for its quality and variety. How can it
not? It has been influenced by so many different cultures throughout the years, that
is impossible to describe it in one single word. The food here represents exactly
what Thessaloniki is; a multicultural city that really loves food and experimenting
with it.

The first time Macedonian cuisine was mentioned was by the father of gastron-
omy Archestratus. Thessaloniki not only has been a multinational city for centuries,
but also the capital of refugees from all regions of Hellenism and the main port
in the Mediterranean, where people traded and accepted a variety of flavors and
compositions in baking and pastry from Europe and the East. The traditional food
of Thessaloniki is a blend of flavors and sensations from local Macedonian dishes
and European cooking with oriental cuisine and refugees' dietary habits. In almost
all "grill restaurants" you'll find varied meat-based dishes such as kontosouvli, goat
oven, burgers, meatballs "Smyrneika", head roast intestines, kebabs, bekri morsel,
tzigerosarma, pork wine sauce, gardoumpes, lamb's fries, spleen stuffer, giaprakia,
fried off wine sauce, sausages, Giaourtlou kebabs etc.
In other words, there is no such thing as "Greek" cuisine, because it is heavnily
influenced by other nations, taking some ingredients or dishes and creating some-
thing new from there. At least to me.

66
A typical Cretan-style
ntakos: homemade olive
oil crackers, topped with
feta cheese, tomatos,
olives,oregano, a drizzle
of olive oil and some
chopped greens. A sim-
ple, yet utterly delicious
appetizer.

67
 This is how your table should look like
after a big meal; fried potatoes, fried zucchini, and
grilled calamari. To top it all off, opt for a glass of
ouzo (seen in left) .

68
69
70
 On "Clean Monday" aka the first Monday of
lent, in Greece to eat two things; taramosalata
(the white spread below, which is made of fish-
es' eggs) and lagana, a specific type
of white flatbread with sesame seeds.

Squid, cooked
Red peppers a la
with onions and Florina, finished
herbs with vinegar

71
72
Not a Thessaloniki staple, but these
dishes are a staple at my aunts' house.
Whenever I get the chance to visit
them, they always prepare delicious
food for me and my family. A few of
their go-to's are noodles or risotto
with shrimps, salmon fillets with an
orange-infused sauce, and a hearty
salad with pomegranate seeds and
grated parmesan cheese.

73
 Salmon with oranges
and dill

74
Noodles with sauteed red peppers
and carrots

75
 e a kfas 1. Preheat the oven to 200*C (390*F) Fan.
r 2. Use the mixing bowl from your mixer. Add the water
and yeast and mix with a spoon until the yeast has dis-
B

t
solved. Let it rest for 5-6 minutes until the yeast be-
comes foamy.
3. Add the rest of the ingredients to the mixing bowl (the
hard wheat flour, all-purpose flour, sugar and salt). Beat
them, using the hook attachment, on medium/high. It

Koulouri
should take about 7-8 minutes until if forms a soft, elas-
tic dough, which is easy to handle. The dough will start
to pull off the bottom.
4. Grease the whole interior of a bowl with oil. Transfer
the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap. Allow to
rest for 30 minutes to 1 hours, until it doubles in size.
Ingredients:
5. Fill a bowl with water (500g). Add the sugar and mix
150 grams flour until the sugar dissolves. Add the sesame to a separate
350 grams all-purpose flour bowl.
7 1/2 grams salt 6. Brush some oil on to a clean work surface before setting
35 grams sugar
250-300 grams water
down the dough. Cut in to about 10 pieces, 80 g each.
(in room temperature) 7. Form smooth balls. Knead each ball by hand, in to a
2 packs of yeast long roll (like a sausage). Bring the two edges together
to form a circle. Try to make them all the same size and
sesame seeds
2 tablespoons of sugar
shape.
500 grams lukewarm water 8. Dip each bagel into the bowl with water and directly into
the bowl with sesame seeds.
9. Place on to 35x40 cm baking sheets that have been
lined with parchment paper. Bake for about 15-20 min-
utes, until golden.
10. Brush with melted butter while still hot. Eat them
plain, or with some feta cheese and honey!

Photo credits: Milk and Honey Blog
Did You Know?
As simple as they come, the kou-
louri is a round, sesame bread that is
sold around the streets of Thessalon-
iki, for just 50 cents. Soft and chewy
on the inside, koulouri is the original
breakfastfood on-the-go. It was intro-
duced during the Byzantine period,
whwre street venders would sell a
variety of items in the streets of Con-
stantinople. Available in many vari-
ations (multigrain, filled with choco-
late spread, cheese or tahini or even
without sesame seeds), the tradition-
al sesame-seed koulouri was first in-
troduced by Greek refugees from Asia
Minor who were flooding Greeces sec-
ond city. Koulouria (plural of koulou-
ri) were sold early in the morning by
street vendors who had baskets (ta-
vades) precariously resting on their
heads located in highly frequented
areas. Don't mistake them for bagels
thouugh- koulouria are not boiled, and
usually they have a crunch to them.
77

e a kfas
r butter.
B 4. Brush a sheet of phyllo dough with butter and place it in the pan. Brush
t
Bougatsa Ingredients:
270 g granulated sugar
4 eggs and 2 egg yolks
400 g fresh milk
400 g heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 package of phyllo dough
150 g butter
soft brown sugar, for sprinkling
caster sugar, for serving
ground cinnamon, for serving
1. Preheat oven to 200* C (390* F) Fan.
2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.
3. Using a pastry brush, brush a 30x35 cm baking pan, generously with
another sheet with butter and place it on top.
5. Do not brush the rest of the phyllo sheets with butter; instead drizzle
some butter on to them, one at a time. Crumple each sheet, folding it
like an accordion and transfer to the pan.
6. Be careful not to press down on them so they dont flatten.
7. Continue in the same way, placing each folded sheet of phyllo gently
next to the other, until all of the sheets of phyllo dough are in the pan.
8. Drizzle the leftover butter over the top of the folded phyllo in the pan.
9. Bake for 20 minutes or until the phyllo turns golden brown and crunchy.
To make sure it does become as crunchy as possible to place the baking
pan on the highest rack level in the oven so the air is able to reach both
top and bottom of pan. This method of adding the phyllo sheets in the
pan also allows the air to circulate between the phyllo giving you the
crunchiest result possible.
10. While the phyllo is baking, prepare the custard. Start by beating the 4
eggs, 2 egg yolks and sugar in a bowl, using a hand whisk. Beat until the
sugar has completely dissolved.
11. Add the vanilla, baking powder, milk and heavy cream similar to a
crme anglaise.
12. When the sheets of phyllo dough are ready, remove from oven. Turn
the heat down to 180* C (350* F).
13.Pour the custard mixture over the phyllo. You can use a large measur-
ing jug to make it easier and less messy.
14. Sprinkle soft brown sugar over the top. This will give the surface and
sweet crunch.
15.Return to oven and bake for 20-25 minutes more.
16. When ready, remove from oven and set aside to cool for a bit.
17. Sprinkle with caster sugar and cinnamon. Cut into pieces and serve.
Ph
 Did You Know?
Like many of the citys pleasures, bougatsa,
Thessalonikis most popular breakfast (or late-
night) snack, has its roots in the east, in Smyr-
na in Asia Minor. The original bougatsa was ske-
ti, meaning it was plain, made with nothing but
Nowadays, bougatsa comes in differ- layers of hand-stretched filo coated with butter
ent varieties, either with vegetables or and oil that would keep it crisp and tender all day
minced meat, however, the original one long. It served as a convenient lunch for workers,
is with either cheese or milk and hon- portable and tasty. When the ladies in the grand
ey, like a custard. Althought in ancient homes of Smyrna turned it into a fashionable tea-
Greece cheese pies were a stample, bou- time snack, fillings of cream or minced meat were
gatsa originated in Instanbul, while it added to dress it up. Thessaloniki ended up with
was still Greek, in the Byzantine period. such great bougatsa because, when the Greek
You can find bougatsa everywhere in refugees fled Asia Minor in 1922, the majority of
Greece, but the most famous ones are in them came to Thessaloniki, bringing the recipe
Thessaloniki and Serres. After the fall with them.
of Constantinopole, many immigrants
moved to Greece, and specifically in
northern Greece (Macedonia, Thrace)
as it was closer. There, they started
making the bougatsa and selling it as a
breakfast option. People were hesitant
in the before, though, because it was
considered as an insult to the housewife
if the husband was seen outside eating a
pie that wasn't made by her.For the ulti-
mate experience, enjoy it with a frappe
or chocolate milk.

79

Photo credits: www.argiro.gr

 n
Din er
Soutzoukakia
Ingredients:
3 thick slices of bread, soaked in water
500 gr. / 1 lb. finely minced beef
1 egg
6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 tsp cumin
1 tsp cinnamon
Salt and pepper
2 small glasses of white wine
30 gr. flour (for frying)
3 sp vegetable oil
2 sp olive oil
3 sp tomato puree or 2 can tomato roughly
chopped to garnish
Chopped parsley (to garnish)
1. Soak the bread in water for 10 minutes and dis-
card the crust. Squeeze the water from the bread and mix
with the mince, egg, garlic, cumin, cinnamon, salt, pepper
and 1 small glass of the wine. The best results for mixing
are always achieved by using your hands.
2. When properly mixed make long thin shapes, like
fat cigars, about the length of your finger (around 15 of
them), roll them in the flour and fry in the vegetable oil on
medium heat, making sure that they are crisp all over.
3. In the meantime, put the olive oil in a saucepan and
when its warm, add the tomatoes and the rest of the wine.
Cook slowly for 5 minutes, stirring and ensure it does not
stick.
4. Add the Soutzoukakia as they come out of the fry-
ing pan, covering them with tomato sauce, add a little more
water if needed, cover and cook slowly for 10 minutes.
5. Garnish with chopped parsley. With its rich sauce
it can be served with plain white rice or mashed potatoes
as a main dish. They also make great starters for a dinner
party!
Did You Know?
Soutzoukakia Smyrneika are spicy meat-
balls, first fried and then cooked (baked) in
tomato sauce.
The expelled people from Smyrna not only
brought with them their manners and cus-
toms, habits and culture, but as well their
gastronomy and food, much more aromat-
ic and influenced by the Asian cuisine with
smells and flavours from the East. Todays
recipe Soutzoukakia Smyrneika is one of the
many wonderful recipes they brought with
them. n the early 20th century Smyrna in
Turkey today known as Izmir was a cos-
mopolitan city on the East coast of the Aege-
an, opposite Chios. The highest percentage
of its inhabitants were Greeks that excelled
in trade, mainly tobacco. Smyrna was fa-
mous for its cuisine. After the invasion of the
Turkish army in Smyrna in 1922, the entire
Greek population was expelled and forced to
escape to Greece and other countries. Photo credits:
Katerina's Kouzina
81
 in ne r
D

Leeks in a pot
Ingredients:
1. Throw in the leeks, the olive oil, and the flour in a big pot in
high temperature.
7 whole leeks 2. Mix all the ingredients, cover with a cap and let the leeks sim-
4 carrots mer till they are tender. If needed, throw in some water.
1 celery root 3. Add salt and pepper, and lower the temperature to low.
5 tablespoons of olive oil
salt/pepper For the avgolemono:
2 tablespoons of all-purpose flour
1 cooked potato (optional) 1. Crack one egg and mix it with the juice of the lemon, till com-
bined.
For the avgolemono sauce: 2. Once the leeks are cooked, throw the sauce in and mix very
1 egg well.
1 lemon 3. Serve it while it's hot with a slice of fresh bread on the side.
 Did You Know?
Although this recipe
doens't come from Thes-
saloniki, it is a staple at
our house and everytime
I make it, it reminds me
of my family, gathered
around the table.Leeks,
or "prassa" in Greek, are
very close to my heart so
I had to include them in
this book. Pro-tip: Leeks
are a great substiture for
spinach in spanakopita,
the spinach-feta pie.

Photo credits: Giorgos Drakopoulos 83

 ess e r t
1. Preheat oven to 160* C (320* F) Fan. For the cream:

D
2. Place a pot over medium heat.
3. Add the milk, 250 g of the sugar and the vanilla bean. Heat until it comes
to a boil.
4. At the same time combine the eggs and 50 g of sugar in a bowl. Whisk until
the sugar dissolves completely.
5. When the milk is ready, remove from heat and very gradually add it to the
bowl with the eggs, while continuously whisking.
6. Wipe down the pot used for the milk with some paper towels and place
back on heat.

Panorama 7. Add the butter and let it melt.

8. Add the flour and saut while whisking the roux continuously.
9. Add the egg and milk mixture in small batches (spoonfuls), lightly whisk-

Triangles ing with each addition. Remove the vanilla bean.

Ingredients:
For cream
1 liter milk
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
300 g granulated sugar (250 g + 50 g )
65 g egg yolks (about 4 yolks)
200 g butter, at room temperature
250 g all-purpose flour
For syrup
500 g granulated sugar
400 g water
For phyllo cones
1 package phyllo dough
200 g butter, for brushing
To garnish
whipped cream
pistachio nuts, crushed or ground
10. Whisk continuously to break up any lumps, until the cream thickens and
it is smooth and velvety. When you notice it bubbling it should be ready.
Give the cream a taste to make sure the flavor of the flour has been cooked
off. If it has the cream is ready!
11. Remove from heat and transfer to a deep dish or bowl. Cover with plastic
wrap, making sure the wrap touches the surface of the cream directly so
that it doesnt form a film.
12. Refrigerate for 2-3 hours to chill completely. For the syrup:
13.Place a saucepan over medium heat.
14. Add the water and sugar and bring to a bowl.
15.When the sugar melts, it is ready.
16. Remove from heat and set it aside to cool completely. For the phyllo cones:
17. Place the sheet of phyllo dough in front of you, the short side facing you.
Divide it into 3 even vertical strips with a sharp knife. Place them one on
top of the other.
18.Place 1 strip of phyllo in front of you. Drizzle with butter.
19.Cover with another strip of phyllo and drizzle with butter.
20. Fold over to make a triangle pie.
21. Cut the triangle in half, vertically with a sharp knife to create two smaller
triangles.
22. Open up each triangle, to make it look like an ice cream cone and place
one of the crumpled balls of parchment in each. (Cut pieces of parchment
paper in to 10x10x cm squares and crumble them in to small balls.)
23. Repeat process for the rest of the phyllo
dough.
24. Transfer all of the phyllo cones to a baking
sheet lined with parchment paper and drizzle
with some butter.
25. Repeat the same process for all of the strips
of phyllo.
26. Bake for 25-30 minutes, until crunchy and
golden.
27. When ready, remove from oven and dip them
in the cooled syrup for a few seconds.
28. Remove from syrup and let them drain on a
wire rack and remove the balls of parchment.
29. To assemble
30. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag.
31. To assemble, pipe the cream into the phyllo
cones.
32. You can decorate with whipped cream, al-
mond slivers and pistachio nuts.
Did You Know?
It was just after the war when John Elenidis came
up with the idea of the "triangles". He was already
selling milk and rice pudding, but he decided to
take a step further. And so, in 1956, he started
making pastries and filling them with his home-
made cream. The recipe was so successful, it went
down to history as "Elenidis triangles". Some
would even called them Greek "cannoli". Anyway,
these pastries come from a small shop that is ap-
proxiamately five minutes away from my house,
so you know I took advantage of that when i was
younger! Every time I taste one of them I sim-
ply can't not think of Panorama, the eastern sub-
urb I spent all my childhood and teenage years.
85
 Thessaloniki in
Arts and Literature
Songs Books Movies
Thessaloniki (1942) by The Big Square by Something To
Vasilis Tsitsanis Nikos Bakolas Burn(1964)

I was born in Salonicca The Thread by Victoria Super Demetrios

(1979) Hislop (2011) (2011)

Farewell to Salonica: City Atsidas (1961)

at the Crossroads by Leon
Sciaky (2003) An Eternity And A Day
(1998)
Salonica, City of Ghosts:
Christians, Muslims and "The Weeping Meadow"
86 Jews 1430-1950 by Mark (2004)
Mazower (2004)
"Barefoot Batallion"(1953)
 "The only word
that has two s's
but is pronounced
with 2 l's"
- Oscar Wilde
Tsimiski Street
87
The Bay Area of
Thessaloniki

88
U ndoubtly Thessaloniki's most
walked road. The "old" Paralia (paralia
means bay) has become an everyday
part of every Thessalonian's routine. It is
the most alive and vivid street, both by
day and night. During the day, you'll see
a sea of people enjoying their freddo es-
persso out in the sun, and by night the
cafes turn into bars.

This is the street that's always filled by

people of all ages. On Sunday mornings,
you'll find people jogging and biking,
and on Friday night you'll see couples
holding hands and walking along the
bay for a romantic stroll.

89
90
91
 Y.M.C.A
Square

92
Y.M.C.A Building:
In 1934 the Y.M.C.A of Thessaloniki acquired a per-
manent home, and Thessaloniki was "endowed" with
a glorious building that was not only an external jew-
el of the city but also the youth's most athletic, social
and educational center for both student and work-
ing. At that time, the track and the stands were built,
which included six lanes, while it also functioned as
as a football stadium for indoor championships and
as a basketball and volleyball court. It is worth not-
ing that at the time, this was the only indoor basket-
ball court in Thessaloniki. By 1983, the center hosted
an indoor swimming pool, as well as classrooms for
wrestling, judo, and rhythmic gymnastics.

Across the building, one can find the H.A.N park,

where you can find the outdoor "Garden" theatre,
and the bar "Dentrospito". If you find youself here in
the spring/summer, stop for a drink inbetween the
trees for a refreshment. Nearby the square you will
find three museums; the Archaelogical Museum,
the Museum of Byzantine Culture, and the War
Museum.

International Exhibition Cen-

ter of Thessaloniki:
In October of 1926, after two years of construction, the
International Exhibition Center of Thessaloniki (known
in Greek as ..) was finally open to the public. Politi-
cians giving speeches, celebrities visiting from around
the country and abroad, and tourists, all contributed to 93
the grownth of the city after the war ended.
94
 A lthough it is a little bit out-dated, the sunrise view is
still magical after all these years. The OTE tower was designed
in 1969 and built in 1970. The main idea of the composition is
an inverted cone with two "disks" on top that gives the building
intensity, dynamism, and balance. The tower, along with the an-
tenna, is more than 70 meters tall. The first floor or "disk" used
to house the OTE kiosk during the international Exhibition.
Nowadays the tower is home to a few radio station, while the
top of the tower hosts a cafe-bar that spins 360, so you get an
incredible view of the city. Unfortunately with time, the signs of
aging of the materials began to become visible, as well as the O.T.E
weakness of the infrastructure to respond to changing technol-
TOWER
ogy. Thus it has necessitated extensive maintenance and up-
grading of the tower, with a specific design and structure.

95
 The Limani

96
T he view from the old port is one of the pret-
tiest ones Thessaloniki has to offer, especially
when the sea is calm and you can see the reflec-
tion of the lights. Both at day and night, this is a
hangout spot for many people, not to mention
couples. You will find here people from all ages
sitting by the deck, sometimes with a beer in
hand, talking and admiring the view.

97
 The old building of the
port is now used as the
Museum of
Photography.

98
99
 For the continuation of the natural role of the port, which is the service of the inhabitants of
the entire Balkans, the Greek Government established the Thessaloniki Free Zone in 1914. The
area occupied the largest area of the port, separated from the rest of the port. In this area all
goods were placed, stored and loaded are unloaded.

For the service of the Yugoslav transit trade through the port of Thessaloniki, due to the friendly
relations of the two countries, in 1923, the Yugoslav Free Zone of the port of Thessaloniki was
established in a 94,000 sq.m. area which included Pier 2. The Yugoslav Free Zone was abol-
ished in 1975 and after the expiration of the 1995 extension, the Yugoslav goods were moved
from the Free Zone of the port essalonikis without special provisions.

During World War II, the port of Thessaloniki was occupied by the German army (1941-1944)
and due to its continued bombardment by the British and American Air Force, as well as the
blowing of the remaining installations by the Germans, upon their departure almost all port
facilities destroyed.

Since the end of World War II and to date the port of Thessaloniki, it has been continuously ex-
panding to the west, initially with the restoration of the facilities and later with the construction
of new gates, storage areas, roads and railways, while simultaneously purchasing a modern
mechanical equipment. Immediately after the war in 1946, the 3rd pier (Lagasay Pier) was built.
In 1962 the fourth pier (Bechtsinar pier) was completed and in 1966 the 5th pier. In 1972, the
construction of the 6th began, the largest part of which was completed until 1989, when the
Container Terminal was operational.

In the 1990s, most of the dredging - sludge removal - dredging of the 6th jetty was completed,
environmentally upgrading the area and at the same time significantly increasing the storage
capacity of the port of Thessaloniki. It also manufactures the direct road linking of the port with
100 the national road network of the country.
101
 e t G r a f fit i
S t r e

102
 G
Graffiti found near the Ladadika area

reek street artists have been

around since the 1980s, but the art
form has really taken off as a form
of expression since the onset of the
financial crisis. Greek street art now
enjoys a strong following and has
gained the attention of the interna-
tional press in recent years. aking
the phrase "add some color in your
life" quite literally, the artists are cre-
ating a city full of colors and liveli-
ness.
Whether small or big, impressive or
not, made in bright colors or with a
few simple touchesk they add anoth-
er touch to the rhythms of the city.
A colorful note that takes you out of
the haze of times and makes you see
things with optimism. In fact, street
graffiti has become such a "trend" in
Thessaloniki, that we have created a
festival about it!

103
104
Photo
credits:
Photo credits: Sknipa.gr

105
106
107
108
The Makedonia Palace luxu-
ry hotel was built during the
1970s and is regarded as one
of Greeces most famous and
prestigious hotels.

Over the years it has hosted many Greek

and international celebrities, while every
September, during the annual opening
ceremony of the Thessaloniki International
Trade Fair, it hosts the Greek Prime Minister
along with most of the Cabinet.

109
 The gulf of Thermaikos
110
111
 Did you know that these
boats you see sailing
around the Thermaikos
gulf are actually bars?
112
113
 My Personal
My Favorite view My Favorite
spots restaurants
Kitchen Bar: all day
bar and restaurant.
From Panorama Warehouse No.2, Port
Hill of Thessaloniki
Limani Yalos: fresh seafood
tavern next to the
White Tower beach.
Zythos: Greek-style
bistro. Would recom-
mend the schnitzel
with mashed potatoes.

114
l Corner
My Favorite My Favorite
coffee bars brunch places
Frankies Estrella
Be* Ergon
Villa Luna Paradosiako

115
ARCHI
TECTU
RE

116
The mansion Longa was built by architect Gennaro in 1925, in the corner
of Hagia Sophia and Ermou street. It became known around Thessaloniki
as the Red House, simply because of the facade's red bricks, a typical
example of eclecticism. Although the windows are sometimes lit, the cur-
rent owner is hard to be found and difficult to talk to about the history of
the building. 117
 Neo-classical Houses
I n many years of happiness left for expensive suburbs, the
human geography of the region has changed and many
houses changed hands. The smaller apartments rented to
students, ideals as well adjacent to the University, internal
migrants lecture because there had fallen real estate prices
and the first foreign settled there.
The citys inner center is steeped in history. The range of
architectural styles reflects its Greek, Roman, Byzantine and
Ottoman past. Over the centuries, the wider region has
been occupied by a number of diverse cultures, each of
which has left its own distinctive mark. Visitors can easily
explore the beating heart of the city, stretching from Veni-
zelou Street in the west to the iconic White Tower in the
east.
118
The Kazes Mansion is located at the cor-
ner of Ag.Mina, I. Dragoumi and Tsimi-
ski streets, in the immediate vicinity of
the old historical center, among other
beautiful preserved monuments. It was
built in 1924 by G. Kaza after the fire of
1917. On the ground floor of the build-
ing there are commercial shops while of-
fices are housed on its floors. The main
view towards I. Dragoumi Street is divid-
ed into a base, a torso and a crest, while
the central vertical axis is highlighted
and the entrance of the gallery is slightly
protruding outward and crowned with a
triangular pediment, where the date of
the construction is engraved.
119
 2 neo-classica houses on Agias So-
fias street.

120
This is "Ble," one of Thessaloni-
ki's most unique bakeries. In-
side, you can find delicous treat
in all the colors of the rainbow
but the most impressive thing
you will find is their brick oven,
which is the tallest oven in Eu-
rope.

121
 Old building at the Corner of Niki's Boulevard
corner of Venizelou and Vogatsikou street.
122 street and Agiou
Mina.
This is Agiou Mina street, where in
previous decades was filled with
small businesses, offices, banks and
workshops. It is one of the oldest
streets of Thessaloniki and in the
past it was named Tsimiski street. Ele-
ments of eclecticism are shown in all
the building of the street, with influ-
ences of art nouveaux, which include
elaborate shelters and rich decora-
tion. Particularly impressive are the
corner buildings, as their angular
shaping is projected in many differ-
ent, striking forms. Typically, almost
all street buildings are organized
around a central area housed with a
glossy metal roof to ensure the light-
ing and ventilation of the interior.

123
124
 125
Corner of Niki's Boulevard and Agias Sofias street.
 Blast From T

126
m The Past

127
128