Dubrovnik and Dalmacija Travel Guide

DubrovNIk
& THE DALMATIAN CoAST
10 Unspoilt beaches
10 Historic towns
10 Museums & galleries
10 Pristine islands
10 Activities for children
10 Great sailing destinations
10 Churches & cathedrals
10 Liveliest festivals
10 Best hotels for every budget
10 Insider tips for every visitor
your guide
DUbROVNIK
& ThE DALmATIAN cOAST
Contents
Left Excursion boat, Cavtat Right Fish platter, Nostromo, Split
Contents
Dubrovnik
& the Dalmatian Coast
Produced by DP Services, London
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Old City Walls, Dubrovnik 8
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom
First American Edition, 2006
06 07 08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Stradun, Dubrovnik 10
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, Rectors Palace, Dubrovnik 14
New York, New York 10014
Copyright 2006
Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Korula Town 16
A Penguin Company
All rights reserved under International and Pan-
American Copyright Conventions. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
Trogir 18
system, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without prior written Krka National Park 20
permission of the copyright owner. Published in
Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited
A CIP catalogue record is available from Diocletians Palace, Split 22

the British Library.
ISSN 1479-344X
ISBN-13: 978-0-75661-553-6 Kornati National Park 26
ISBN-10: 0-75661-553-4
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of
quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the Cathedral of St James,
editors opinion, of roughly equal merit.
ibenik 28
Floors are referred to throughout
in accordance with British usage;
ie the first floor is the floor
above ground level. Zadar Old Town 30
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of
going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers
cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for
any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this
book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
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Cover: Front Alamy Images; Austrophoto/f1 online main image; DK Images Lucio Rossi t, cl, clb, bl.
Back Aura Photo Agency Aldo Pavan tl; DK Images Lucio Rossi tc, tr.
Contents
Left Onofrios Fountain, Stradun, Dubrovnik Right River Cikola, Krka National Park
Moments in Dalmatian Around Dubrovnik

History 34 & the Dalmatian Coast
Old Towns 36 Dubrovnik 58
Cathedrals & Churches 38 Northern Dalmatia 72
Museums & Galleries 40

Central Dalmatia 80
Beaches 42
Southern Dalmatia 90
Sporting Activities 44
Streetsmart
Sailing Destinations 46
Practical Information 100
Restaurants 48
Places to Stay 110
Things to Buy 50
General Index 118
Activities for Children 52
Phrase Book 126
Festivals & Events 54 Dalmatia Map Index 128
Left Old town, Dubrovnik Right Croatian National Theatre, Split

dubrovnik
& The
dalmaTian
Dubrovnik & The DalmaTian CoasT

coasT
Highlights
67
Old City Walls,
Dubrovnik
89
Stradun, Dubrovnik
1013
Rectors Palace,
Dubrovnik
1415
Korula Town
1617
Trogir
1819
Krka National Park
2021
Diocletians Palace, Split
2225
Kornati National Park
2627
8Vi]ZYgVad[Hi?VbZh!
ibenik
2829
Zadar Old Town
3031
Top 10 of Everything
3455
Highlights
Whether you visit for the sun, the sailing, the scenery, or some of the freshest
seafood youll find anywhere, the Dalmatian coast is quite simply one of
Europes most stunning escapes. Long stretches of glorious shoreline are
framed between striking limestone mountains and the azure waters of the
Adriatic, where hundreds of islands, inhabited and uninhabited, await
exploration. The coastline is punctuated by a series of lively towns and cities,
in which the regions long and eclectic history comes alive in wonderfully
preserved old cores that are no mere museum-pieces, but vibrant, bustling
hubs of activity nowhere more so than Dubrovnik, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site now returned to its former splendour after the siege of the early 1990s.
Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast
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Rectors Palace, Dubrovnik

Under the Republic of Ragusa,
the citys figurehead presided here,
amidst a flurry of Gothic and
Renaissance architecture. This
impressive palace has now been
reinvented as a museum and
cultural venue (see pp1415).
Korula Town
It may or may not be
the birthplace of Marco
Polo, but Korula Town is
simply sublime, set on its
own peninsula, framed by
sea and mountains. Its
cathedral is one of the most
charming ecclesiastical
buildings in the Adriatic
(see pp1617).
Preceding pages View of rooftops from Dubrovnik city walls

Trogir
Set on its own
island, this perfectly
preserved old city
shimmers with
churches, palaces and

one of Europes most striking
cathedrals, whose beauty is
recognized by UNESCO
(see pp1819).
Krka National Park

Established to protect the middle and
lower reaches of the River Krka, this idyllic
natural playground of lakes, waterfalls and
waterways near ibenik attracts small kids
and big kids alike (see pp2021).

The palatial, UNESCO-World-
Heritage-listed retirement home of
Emperor Diocletian forms the frenetic
heart of the dashing Mediterranean
city of Split (see pp225).
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islands strung out in the Adriatic has
become a paradise for sailors, and for
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now back to its lively best, with

Slavic culture meeting Roman
remnants on a striking Adriatic
peninsula (see pp3031).

Old City Walls, Dubrovnik
Dubrovniks voluminous city walls, up to 12 m (39 ft) thick and 25 m (82 ft)
high in places, are a stunning site. A cradle of stone, they helped to protect
one of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities in Europe, as well as
safeguarding the independence of the city-state for centuries. Running from
the steep cliffs to the north through to the Adriatic in the south, they proved
an impenetrable barrier to pirates and potential conquerors, until the keys to
the gates were finally handed over to the French on 31 January 1808, and the
Republic of Dubrovnik (or Ragusa, to use its former name) came to an end.
Top 10 Sights
Pile Gate

MinZta Fort
Ploe Gate
Revelin Fort
Steps up to the track along
the top of the walls Rooftops
St Johns Fort
Bua, perched
outside the southern
Maritime Museum
walls overlooking the Drinks Counter
Adriatic and Lokrum, Bokar Fort
is a bar well worth Boat Trip
seeking out. No food
or fancy service here,
but refreshing drinks
and stunning views.
Pile Gate
This grand western
entrance to the Old City
From the Jesuit
leads, via a drawbridge,
Church, follow the down on to the Stradun.
cold drinks sign. Look out for the figure of
Be sure to carry Dubrovniks patron saint,
plenty of water in St Blaise, above the gate
the warmer months, and, a little further on, for
as the only place on a more modern depiction
the walls where by Ivan Metrovi.
liquid refreshment is
available is at the
drinks counter on the
Mineta Fort
North of the Pile Gate,
southern flank. steep steps lead up to an
impressive fort (below).
Map G4 Views at sunset from this
Access from the 15th-century bastion justify
Stradun (next to the Pile the exertion to reach it.
Gate), Svetog Dominika
and Kneza Damjana. Ploe Gate
The bridge leading to
Open 9am6:30pm daily. the Ploe Gate (above),
Adm charge 30kn (audio on the eastern walls,
handsets also available) offers new arrivals
Maritime Museum: tantalizing glimpses of
020 323 904. Open the city and the old port.
MayOct: 9am6pm
daily; NovApr: 9am
2pm daily. Admission Revelin Fort
Close to the eastern
15kn (children 7kn); walls stands this sturdy
discount for groups 16th-century fortress,
of more than 10 now used for music and
dance events in summer.

Rooftops

The legacy of the 199192
siege is evident from the stretch
of wall around the old port. From
here the contrast between the
charming, original roof tiles and the
newer replacements, imported from
France and Slovenia, is easy to see.
St Johns Fort

This fortification
(right) protected the old
port from advancing
enemy ships and was, in
its time, right at the
cutting edge of military
technology. Begun in the
14th century, additions
were being made well
into the 16th century.
Maritime Museum
Part of St Johns
Fortress is a museum
(see p40), that sheds
light on the Republic of
Ragusas rich and eclectic
maritime heritage. The
exhibits include a large
collection of model ships,
sepia photographs of the
Drinks Counter
On the southern flank
port and historic maps.
of the walls there is an

Libertas
unassuming drinks stand
with outdoor seating. Dubrovniks daunting
Pile Gate This is a fine spot to rest city walls are just part
on a hot day and admire of the reason why the
Bokar Fort
This Renaissance
the hulking fortifications
and the island of Lokrum.
Republic of Ragusa
enjoyed centuries of
fort, designed by independence, at a time
Michelozzo Michelozzi,
watches over the citys Boat Trip
For a completely
when the Venetians and
Turks were vying for
original port. From here different perspective of territory all around the
the Lovrijenac fortress is Dubrovniks walls, join a Adriatic. Machiavelli
visible across the water. tour boat or hire a local would have applauded
water taxi (both the skill of the republics
leave from the negotiators as they
old port) and played off the various
skirt around the powers against each
base of the city other, dipping into the
(left), where the citys bountiful gold
Adriatic swishes reserves when all else
against the rocks failed. The word proudly
and the ramparts emblazoned on their flag
soar menacingly was Libertas (freedom).
upward.

Stradun, Dubrovnik
The sweeping Stradun, also known as the Placa, is Dubrovniks main
thoroughfare, cutting a pedestrianized swathe right through the Old City.
Formed when the narrow channel that separated the Slavic settlement of
Dubrovnik on the mainland from the Roman settlement on the island of Raus
was filled in during the 12th century, it has survived the disastrous earthquake
of 1667 and Serb shelling during the Siege of Dubrovnik from 1991 to 1992.
Today this smooth limestone walkway, with its mele of attractive shops, cafs,
bars and restaurants, buzzes with visitors throughout the summer months.
Top 10 Sights
Shutters and Lamps

Caf Culture
Onofrios Large Fountain
Church of St Saviour
Sponza Palace
Franciscan Monastery
Orlandos Column
The Caf Festival,
housed in one of the
Clocktower
Straduns graceful Sponza Palace
stone houses, is the Onofrios Little Fountain
place to be and be Church of St Blaise
seen on the Stradun.
During the Dubrovnik
Festival, you will have
to be quick to snare
Shutters and Lamps
For a wonderfully
controlled piece of town
one of the coveted
planning, look at the
outside tables. window shutters and the
lamps along the Stradun
Even if you have (right). They are all painted
seen the Stradun by the same shade of green,
day, you should also giving a cohesiveness not
return at night, when often found in European
floodlighting gives cities these days.
the thoroughfare a
more romantic
ambience.
Stradun
Church of St Saviour:
Map H4. Open 9am
4pm daily
Franciscan Monastery:
Onofrios
Fountain
Large
Damaged in the Siege of

Map H4. Open 9am
19912, this 15th-century
6pm daily. Adm charge
fountain (below) has been
15kn (children 7.50kn);
restored. Once, travellers
discount for groups
would stop here to wash
Church of St Blaise:
in its gushing waters.
Map J5. Open 8am8pm
daily. Free
Museum to the
Caf Culture
Join the locals for a drink
and watch the world go by
Dubrovnik Defenders:
(above). Many Stradun cafs
Sponza Palace. 020 321
fling tables out at the first
032. Map J5. Open
flash of sunshine, but getting
8am2pm daily. Free
a seat can be an ordeal at
the height of summer.
10

B 79 7
D F
7:K
IJH
Church of
St Saviour


The staid Renaissance
faade does little to hint
at the colour inside. Here
regular concerts (above)
and art exhibitions, often
Orlandos
with work by modern
Dalmatian artists, are held. Franciscan
Monastery
Column
Mystery surrounds
The dark cloisters the statue (left) that
and lush vegetation guards the spot
of this 14th-century where the Stradun
monastery conjure unfurls into Lua
up echoes of the Square. Some
Dubrovnik of old, locals claim that
as do the fascinating this legendary
exhibits of the knight saved the
Monastery Museum. city from disaster
Arrive early to avoid when he fought off
the crowds (see menacing pirates in
pp1213). the 8th century.
Clocktower
A striking timepiece
(right), this clocktower
dates from the 15th
century. Overhauled in
1929, the duo of bell
strikers visible today are
copies. The originals are
in the Sponza Palace.
Sponza Palace
The inscription We
are forbidden to cheat
Earthquake of
and use false measures,
and when I weigh goods, 1667
God weighs me, reveals The earthquake of 1667
this early-16th-century tore the heart out of
palaces former role as Gothic and Renaissance
the citys customs house Dubrovnik, killing 5,000
Onofrios
Fountain
Little and mint. Today it is home
to the State Archives and
of its citizens and
reducing many of its
Tucked into a building by the Museum to the key buildings to rubble.
the Rectors Palace, this Dubrovnik Defenders. This terrible tragedy
little sister to the large paved the way for the
Onofrio fountain often construction of one of
goes unnoticed. It dates the most impressive
from the 15th century. Baroque cities in
Europe. Carefully
Church of St Blaise
This church (right) sits
planned to sit within
the protective confines
at the top of the Stradun. of the sturdy city walls,
Inside, Dubrovniks patron it resisted all intruders
saint, St Blaise, cradles a until the arrival of
model of the city showing Napoleonic troops in
what it looked like before the early 19th century.
the earthquake of 1667.
For Dubrovniks best cafs See p65 11

Left Romanesque cloisters Middle Church of St Francis Right Gothic portal
Franciscan Monastery, Stradun

Romanesque Cloisters
Mihoje Brajkovs magnificent Pharmacy
The monastery is home to
14th-century cloisters, with their one of the oldest pharmacies
graceful, double-pillared columns in Europe, with a collection of
deserve a close look. Visit in the treatments and pharmacopoeias
early morning or late afternoon, dating from the 15th century. The
before they become too crowded. dispensary is still operational
(8am2pm, MonSat).
Inner Courtyard
Step into this inner sanctum
Church of St Francis
to view the cloisters and admire Most of the original 14th-
the spectacular balustrade that century church was destroyed by
frames the courtyard. the Great Earthquake of 1667.
Remarkable features in this 18th-
Frescoes
The life of St Francis and
century reconstruction include
the lavish marble altars and the
his animals is depicted in the ornate organ framed by cherubs.
frescoes that line the cloisters.
Belltower
The dome-topped belltower Gothic Portal
An imposing Piet by Petar
and Leonardo PetroviXgdlchi]^h
dominating the western end hdji]ZgcedgiVa!all that remains of
of the Stradun dates from the the original 14th-century church.
14th century and features Gothic
and Romanesque elements. Its
majestic presence towers over Library
The monastery museum
the monastery courtyard. is home to Croatias largest
collection of historical
manuscripts, over 1,200, dating
from the early Middle Ages.
Portraits
The library walls are adorned
with portraits of some of the
citys most celebrated citizens,
including the mathematician
Ruer Bokovi (171187).
Ivan Gunduli Memorial

A plaque on the north wall of
the church commemorates the
17th-century poet Ivan Gunduli,
Belltower who is buried in the monastery.
12 For visitor information for the Fransiscan Monastery and its

museum See p10
Left Dubrovnik Painting Middle Stone relief of St Francis Right Re-creation of the old pharmacy
Franciscan Monastery Museum

Dubrovnik Painting
This painting is a StTheBlaises Foot
most prized
revealing insight into how possession in the
medieval Dubrovnik reliquary collection is
looked, before the this foot of St Blaise,
devastating earthquake of preserved in a boot-like
1667 felled the city. gold and silver case.
Missile Damage
On 6 December 1991, Religious Painting
The highlight of the
known locally as Black Portrait of St Blaise museums collection of
Tuesday, Serbian missiles religious art is a 15th-
reigned down on Dubrovnik. century portrait of St Blaise, set
Two shell-holes have been left against a striking gold backdrop.
in the museum walls to serve
Osman
as reminders of the damage
sustained by the monastery.
One of the treasures of
the museums library is an
18th-century transcript of Ivan
Gundulis Osman. Heralded
as the poets masterpiece, it
celebrates a famous Slavic
victory over the Turks.
Potions and Poisons

Set in a re-creation of the
Missile damage monasterys original pharmacy
are row upon row of measuring
War Record
Inconspicuously located
instruments and traditional
remedies, some lethal poisons.
below the painting of Dubrovnik
is a book cataloguing the
devastation caused by the Stone Reliefs
A small open space to one
54 direct hits upon the side of the museum contains odd
monastery during the siege remnants of carved masonry from
of the city in 19912. the building, including gargoyles
and segments of old gravestones.
Missiles
Tucked into a corner, by a
StTheFrancis
bench near the entrance to the medieval stone relief of
museum, lie the casings of some St Francis, above the museum
of the missiles that wrought entrance, appears to be casting a
destruction on this tranquil space. protective eye over his domain.
13
Rectors Palace, Dubrovnik
The Rector of Dubrovnik wielded very little real power. Nominal head of the
government, he was in office for a single month, during which he had to live
away from his family and was only allowed to leave the palace on official
business. The original building, more castle than palace, was blown up in 1435.
The new building erected on the site had to be restored after another explosion
in 1463, and again after the earthquake of 1667; todays palace is a hybrid of
Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Dubrovnik no longer has a rector, but
his opulent residence still plays an important role in the cultural life of the city.
Top 10 Sights
Gothic Loggia

Atrium
Statue of Miho Pracat
Gunduli Portrait
Latin inscription at the top
of the stairs Statues of St Blaise
Prison Cells
The recently
renovated Gradska
Stairs
Kavana is a caf fit Inscription
for a Rector, with Sedan Chairs
views across Lua Rectors Study
Square and down the
Stradun on one side
and out onto the old
port on the other.
The windows on
the first floor make
a perfect spot for
photographing both
the cathedral and the
displays of folk
dancing that Rectors Palace
sometimes take
place in the street
Statue of Miho
below. If you find the
windows open, just
Gothic Loggia
This ornately carved
Pracat
Taking pride of place in
pop out your lens loggia (above) was built the atrium is Piero Paolos
using marble from the 17th-century statue of
and shoot.
Dalmatian island of shipping magnate
Korula. In the middle of Miho Pracat (left), from
Pred Dvorom 3 the parade of Gothic the nearby island
Map J5 columns and capitals of Lopud. Dying
020 321 437 are three in the without an heir, he
Open 9am6pm daily Renaissance style. left his all
Adm charge 20kn; his wealth to
discount for groups
Atrium
This compact
the Republic
of Ragusa.
open-air space offers
a suitably grand welcome
to visitors and, today, also Gunduli Portrait
This is one of the few
serves as a venue for portraits in existence
cultural events, such as of Dubrovniks most
recitals by the Dubrovnik celebrated poet, Ivan
Symphony Orchestra. Gunduli (15881638).
14 Keep your eyes peeled for statues of St Blaise dotted around the
Old City.

Statues of
St Blaise

The sculptures of St Entrance
Blaise in the museum

here afford a rare
chance to get up close

to the citys patron
saint. Most other
renderings hang well Key
above head height, or
behind distant glass in
his eponymous church
First Floor
Ground Floor
Prison Cells
The ground floor once
(see p38). served as the Republic of
Ragusas courtroom and
prison. The dank, gloomy
cells here hint at the
harsh treatment meted
out to inmates, who
relied on friends and
family for food and water.
Stairs
The rather ghoulish
stairs up to the first floor
are adorned with three
lifelike hands on each rail.
They were used only
once a month, by the
incoming rector at the
start of his term of office.
An Explosive
Inscription Sedan Chairs History
The inscription in In the small room beneath In addition to being the
Latin at the top of the the inscription is abode of the head of
stairs would have put a collection of the Republic of Ragusa,
any rector firmly in his 18th-century as well as the site of
place by reminding sedan chairs the law courts and
him of his duty to (right), that prison, the Rectors
focus, not on his hints at the Palace also once served
personal concerns, opulence of as a gunpowder store.
but only on public and the citys This foolishness on the
civic matters. nobility. part of the authorities
unfortunately resulted
Rectors Study
In one of the
in the building being
blown sky high on
Palaces most elegant two occasions. It was
and graceful rooms only after the second
(left), visitors can disastrous explosion
watch a rather lifeless that the citys leaders
looking dummy of the finally made the
rector (in a garish red decision to move their
gown) hard at work arsenal elsewhere.
on affairs of state.
15
Korula Town
Its easy to see why the explorer Marco Polo would have been drawn back to
his native town Korula (assuming, that is, that it really was his native town, a
matter of some debate). There is no doubting the beauty of the place, a mosaic
of terracotta rooftops encircled by medieval walls and punctuated by church
spires, jutting out into the cobalt blue of the Adriatic with the majestic Peljeac
mountains as a backdrop. Evidence of former Venetian rule abounds, from the
proud Venetian lions adorning its buildings to a cathedral dedicated to St Mark.
Top 10 Features
City Walls

Land Gate and Steps
Town Hall
Cathedral of St Mark
Cathedral of St Mark Bishops Palace
Town Museum
Housed in an old Marco Polo House
bastion, the Massimo Art Shops/Arneri Palace
bar offers sweeping Churches
views out across the Beaches
Peljeki Channel.
In high season, visit

on Mondays and
Thursdays to enjoy
the Moreka (see
opposite and p55).
Map H1 Korula Town

Tourist Information:
City Walls
Obala Franje Tumana.
020 715 701
Korulas city walls
proved sturdy enough to Town Hall
The 16th-century
Cathedral of St Mark: see off an onslaught by town hall sits just inside
Trg Sv Marka Statuta. the Ottoman Turks in 1571. the Land Gate. Its small
Open 9am7pm daily Today large chunks of the loggia recalls Korula
(until 9pm in summer) fortifications have been Towns Venetian heritage.
Bishops Palace: Trg Sv cleared to make way for a
Marka Statuta. 020 711
049. Open JunAug:
road, although sections
of wall do remain, with Cathedral
St Mark
of
9am7pm daily; cannons peering out over This cathedral, completed
SepMay: by appt. the Peljeki Channel (above), in the 15th century, is
Adm charge 15kn and a sprinkling of bastions one of the most charming
Civic Museum: Trg Sv still stand guard. ecclesiastical buildings in
Marka Statuta. 020 711 the Adriatic islands. The
420. Open JunSep:
9:30am9pm MonSat; Land
Steps
Gate and interior is a riot of Gothic
and Renaissance styles.
OctMay: 9:30am2pm The sweep of steps
MonSat. Adm charge up to the Land Gate
10kn (children 3kn) (right) provides a
Marco Polo House: dramatic entrance to
Depolo. Open JulAug: the old town. Set in a
10am1pm, 57pm, 14th-century bastion,
MonSat. Adm charge the gate was once a
10kn crucial strongpoint on
the walls.
16
Bishops Palace
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Town Museum
In the main square
opposite the cathedral is
a small civic museum,
housed in the striking
16th-century Gabriellis
Palace. Among a number
of interesting exhibits
here is a copy of a 4th-
century Greek tablet.
Marco Polo House

Allegedly the great
explorers birthplace, this
house is currently being
restored and developed
as a museum devoted to
his life. The attached tower
offers fine views of the
rooftops of Korula Town.
Churches
Korula Town may be Moreka
small, but it manages to Korula is the only
cram in a wealth of Dalmatian island where
churches. Look out for real swords are still used
the All Saints Church for dancing the More`V
(left), St Michaels and aîZgVaan!Bddg^h]#
the Church of our Lady, 9Vi^c\[gdbi]Z&'i]
which all stand within XZcijgn!i]ZYVcXZ]Vh
the old town walls. WZZceZg[dgbZY^c
@dgjaVh^cXZi]Z&+i]!
VcY^hWZa^ZkZYidWZV
Art Shops/Arneri
Palace
gZ"ZcVXibZcid[i]Z
k^Xidgnd[8]g^hi^Vcîn
Korula Town overflows dkZg>haVb^cHeV^c#
with small art shops that IdYVnhh^bea^ZY[dgb
sell everything from hZZhi]ZL]îZ@c^\]i
standard depictions of
the local skyline right Beaches
East of the town lie
8]g^hi^Vcîn\]ii]Z
7aVX`@c^\]i>haVb!
through to more esoteric a series of small beaches [dgi]ZV[[ZXi^dchd[V
works of modern art. that make pleasant spots Bjha^bbV^YZc#I]Z
The art shop housed to swim on hot days. A L]îZ`c^\]iig^jbe]h!
within the Arneri Palace, short bus-ride (or in VcYi]ZbV^YZc
on the same square as season, boat-ride) away XdckZgihid8]g^hi^Vcîn#
the cathedral, is a good are better beaches at
place to start. Lumbarda (above).
17
Trogir
Trogir, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is quite simply one of the
most stunning places in the Mediterranean. Sitting on its own island with
bridges linking it to the mainland on one side and to the island of iovo on
the other, the town forms a shimmering knot of orange roofs and traditional
stone buildings, amongst which lies one of Croatias most remarkable
cathedrals. The well-preserved old centre is perhaps the most unified in the
whole country, a pedestrianized oasis where the centuries peel back with
every step. Even the heavy crowds in summer fail to diminish Trogirs appeal.
Top 10 Features
Cathedral of St Lawrence

Kamerlengo Fortress
Civic Museum
Loggia and Clock Tower
Land Gate ipiko Palace
Marmonts Gazebo
The palm-fringed
Riva is ideal for a
Church of St John the Baptist
relaxed coffee or Convent of St Nicholas
meal at any time. Riva
Land Gate
Cross the bridge to
the island of iovo for
great views across
to the old city.
Map D5
Tourist Information: Trg
Ivana Pavla II. 021 881
412
Cathedral of St Cathedral
Lawrence
of St
Riva
Lawrence Bell Tower: Highlights include the 13th-
Trg Ivana Pavla II. 021
881 426. Open JunSep:
century west door, lavishly
adorned with biblical scenes Civic Museum
Trogirs civic museum
9am12pm, 4pm7pm carved by Trogir-born sculptor is housed in the Baroque
daily. Adm charge 5kn Radovan, and the sumptuous Garagnin Palace and
Kamerlengo Fortress. Renaissance styling of the presents details of the
Open JunSep: 9am8pm baptistry and St Johns towns eclectic past. It
daily. Adm charge 10kn Chapel (above). The adjacent houses everything from
Civic Museum: ulica Zupni Dvor houses an the legacy left by the
Kohl-Genscher 49. 021 interesting collection of 14th- Greeks and Romans to
881 406. Open 9am to 17th-century paintings. chilling documents from
1pm, 59pm daily. Adm the Napoleonic era,
charge 10kn (children
5kn); discount for groups Kamerlengo
Fortress
listing the proclamation
of death sentences on
Church of St John the This fortification (below) local officials who dared
Baptist: Trg Ivana Pavla has guarded the western to defy French authority.
II. Open 8am12pm, approaches to Trogir
6pm9pm daily since the 15th
Convent of St century. Concerts
Nicholas: Gradska 2. and film showings
Open MaySep: 9am are held here in
12pm, 4pm7pm daily; summer, while the
OctApr: by appt ramparts offer views
of the old town.
18 Note that opening hours have a tendency to change, so its best

to check in advance if your time is limited.
Loggia and Clock Tower 7A 6
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when a Venetian stone
lion was blown up by
local activists in the ipiko Palace
1930s, in a show of defiance against This grand Gothic
Italian claims on Dalmatian territory. edifice (below) is one of
the most impressive of
the towns old palaces. It
was once the base of the
powerful ipiko family,
who held great influence
in 15th-century Trogir.
Marmonts
Gazebo
During the Napoleonic
era (180613) the top
French General in the
region, Marmont, liked
nothing better than to
recline, here taking in the
views and indulging in
the odd game of cards.
It is still a striking spot,
Church of St John
the Baptist Convent
Nicholas
of St despite the more recent
iovo shipyards.
This small Romanesque This modest convent is
church, all that remains worth visiting for its art Trogir Orientation
of a great Benedictine collection. The highlight,
monastery, is the only uncovered in Vehicles are banned
final resting-place the 1920s, is the from Trogirs historic
of the ipiko 3rd-century Greek core. However, those
family. Here you relief of Kairos arriving by car can park
can see their (left). Note too the in the public car park
tomb, decorated chests used by located just outside the
with a 15th-century new arrivals for old towns northern
relief depicting The bringing gifts into walls; simply cross over
Mourning of Christ. the convent. the bridge from the
mainland and turn right.
Parking spaces are at
Riva Land Gate
The waterfront Riva is The most impressive a premium in summer,
where locals and tourists surviving gate, this forms so many people opt to
come to wander or enjoy part of the fortifications take the bus instead.
a meal or drink on balmy built by the Venetians. A The bus station is sited
summer evenings. In statue of St John, Trogirs not far from the afore-
season, boats line up patron saint, watches mentioned bridge, on the
here and visitors can warily over new arrivals Jadranska Magistrala.
book trips for the next day. from the mainland.
19
Krka National Park
Krka National Park is one of southern Europes scenic wonders, a green oasis
in an otherwise parched landscape. Spread over 109 sq km (42 sq miles) to
the north-east of ibenik, it tracks the route of the Krka river, with its spectacular
waterfalls, gurgling pools and pounding rapids. Swimming is possible in places,
making the park the perfect place for a hot day, but its well worth a visit
whatever the weather. As well as the wildlife and picturesque historic buildings,
there are plenty of idyllic spots just to sit and gaze at the glorious surroundings.
Top 10 Features
Skradin

Lake Visovac
Mills and Exhibition

Skradinski Buk
General view of Krka Visovac Monastery
National Park
Medu Gredama Gorge
Near the boat Roki Slap
landing at Roki, Krka Monastery
Slap, Kristijan, a
Neven Fortress
small agritourism
venture, offers
Wildlife
homemade prut
(see p49), cheese
and bread, not to
mention friendly
owners with a
penchant for dishing
out lethal strength Visovac Monastery
rakija (a fruit spirit).
Those who are

Mills and
Exhibitions
looking to cover the At Skradinski Buk and
park from Skradin
right through to the
Skradin
Guarding the southern
Roki Slap (below),
several disued mills have
entrance to the park is this been turned into craft
Krka Monastery
charming little waterfront shops and galleries. Staff
should arrive early
town (above), which is fast in period costume are on
and be prepared for becoming a favourite with hand for photographs.
a very long day. the sailing fraternity the
marina is open year-round.
Map C3 The sprinkling of decent
Park Office: Trg Ivana seafood restaurants here
Pavla II, 22001 ibenik. makes it a good location for
022 217 720 a relaxing meal after a long
www.npkrka.hr days exploration in the park.
Open summer: 8am
6pm; winter: 9am5pm
Skradinski Buk
Adm charge 2060kn,
depending on season
Water thunders 47 m
(154 ft) over the 17 steps Lake Visovac
Just to the north of
that transport it down the Skradinski Buk, the river
hillside here into a large opens out into this wide,
rock pool that makes a reed-fringed expanse.
wonderful swimming In summer, fire-fighting
venue. Views from the planes may be seen here,
walkway ascending the swooping down for water
hillside are breathtaking. to extinguish forest fires.
20
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Visovac Monastery
Founded by Franciscans in the 14th century, this @^hiVc_Z
chocolate-box monastery reclining on an island in the

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middle of Lake Visovac makes a popular boat trip. Set CVi^dcVa
in lush gardens, the monastery has a small church, a
GjeZ
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modest museum, and a gem of a library. ^gîdkX^

9jWgVk^XZ
Meu Gredama Gorge
The Krka river narrows into a steep-sided H`gVY^c

gorge between Lake Visovac and Roki Slap.
Walls of sheer rock rise up like skyscrapers on
((
6&
both sides, to well over 100 m (328 ft) in places.
Krka National Park
Roki Slap
The best way to
approach this swathe
of roaring water (above),
as it plummets down into
the gorge, is by boat.
The longest drop of this
waterfall is over 25 m
(82 ft), as the river Krka
forges a path through the
Krka
Monastery
dense vegetation of the
surrounding forests.
This fine Orthodox
monastery on the Krka National
banks of the Krka
(also known as St
Park Orientation
Archangel) lies at The most dramatic way
the northern end to reach the park is by
of the park a boat from Skradin. From
two-hour boat the landing pier, the
excursion from the
upper end of Roki Neven Fortress
A 14th-century Croat
entrance and Skradinski
Buk are just a short
Slap. Once there, stronghold, the Neven walk to the south. Most
you are rewarded Fortress (above) may be little visitors stick to the well-
by a memorable more than a ruin, but it casts worn tourist path, but
collection of icons, a haunting presence over the you can also follow a
paintings, books Krka as the river makes its way trail of wooden walkways
and textiles. through the narrow gorge here. and bridges along the
cascade formations.
Wildlife
Around a thousand
Head up the hill, beyond
the old mills and the
different plant species visitor parking, where
have been recorded in the information boards
park (left), as well as num- detail the parks various
erous species of bird, 18 boat tours; here you can
species of bat and nine buy tickets, and will be
types of snake, including directed to the boats.
a venomous viper.
21
Splits city centre is like no other in Europe. Built as a grand retirement home
for the Roman Emperor Diocletian, its character was later modified by
refugees from nearby Salona who fled there in 614, after their own city was
sacked. It may be crumbling and ramshackle in parts, but the area occupied
by the once mighty imperial palace now a UNESCO World Heritage site
has about 3,000 residents and is crammed with busy bars and boutique art
shops. Unlike much of the Dalmatian coast, the whole complex buzzes with
life all year round and dishes up a varied choice of things to see and do.
Top 10 Sights
Subterranean Chambers

Main Hall
Peristyle
Cathedral of St Domnius
The cathedral belltower,
looming over the port Belltower
Baptistry
The spacious Luxor
Caf in the sunken
Cupola
square is a good place City Museum
to relax and refuel. Golden Gate
Iron Gate
Delve beyond the
cupola to explore
the upper tier of the
palace. There are few
Subterranean
Chambers
The palaces underground
major sights, but it is
vaults mirror the layout of
a lot quieter here and the floor above. Now open
there are good views as a museum, they give
of the Adriatic as a good impression of the
well as a couple of palaces former appearance.
lively bars at night.
Map P3
Main Hall
The main subterranean
Tourist information: hall of the palace houses an Main Hall, Diocletians Palace
Peristyle. 021 345 606 alley of souvenir shops. Here
Subterranean
Chambers: Open
you can buy anything from
postcards to paintings and Cathedral
Domnius
of St
8am6pm daily. Adm statues of Roman figures. Built over Diocletians

charge 10kn tomb, the main structure
Cathedral of St here is Roman. Inside is a
Domnius: Peristyle. 021 13th-century pulpit (below)
342 589. Open 7am and work by 15th-century
noon, 47pm daily. Free sculptor Juraj Dalmatinac.
Belltower: Peristyle.
Open 8am7pm daily.
Adm charge 5kn
City Museum:
Papalieva 1. 021 344
917. JunSep: 9am9pm
daily; OctMay: 9am
Peristyle
Once an antechamber
4pm TueFri, 10am1pm to Diocletians quarters, the
Sat, Sun. Adm charge dramatic, colonnaded square
10kn (children 5kn) known as the Peristyle
(above) is the heart of the
palace complex.
22 Peristyle is the name given to a colonnade surrounding a

courtyard also to the courtyard itself.


Belltower
The belltower, which soars high above
the cathedral, was not completed until the
early 20th century. The panoramic views of
the city that it offers (above) make the long
climb up to the top well worth the effort.

Bronze Gate
Baptistry
An alley opposite the
cathedral leads to the
Bapistry, once the Roman
Temple of Jupiter. Inside,
a striking feature is the
sculpture of John the
Baptist (below) by Ivan
Metrovi (18831962).
Diocletians
Palace Orientation
Cupola
Stone steps from the City Museum
East of the sunken
From the waterfront
Riva, Diocletians Palace
sunken square lead to a square, the City Museum can be entered through
domed area, where is housed in the 15th- the Bronze Gate. Head
guests once waited century Papali north through the main
for an audience with Palace. Among the hall and go up the steps
the Emperor. At artifacts relating to at the far end into the
night, stars are Splits history is a Peristyle, with its elegant
visible through a collection of colonnades and imposing
gap in the top of weaponry and cathedral. Just north of
the dome. armour (left). the cathedral is the citys
most centrally located
Golden Gate
This sturdy Iron Gate
Splits most
tourist office a great
place to pick up visitor
portal once led striking gate has information and maps.
north to the nearby its own church (Our From the Peristyle, the
settlement of Salona. Lady of the Belfry) and main sights are easy to
Today, it is being restored clock tower. A caf on find just a couple of
to its full splendour, Narodni Trg will make an minutes walk to north,
thanks to funding by a ideal spot from which to east, west or south.
local bank. admire this elegant portal.
Leave the palace by the Golden Gate to see Ivan Metrovis 23

imposing statue of Grgur of Nin (see p41).
Left Riva Right View from Marjan Hill
Other Sights in Split

Riva
Splits palm-fringed, Marmontova
This elegant and modern
pedestrianized waterfront is street on the western edge of
where its citizens come to Diocletians Palace is awash
meet up and be seen. The many with designer shops. In the late
pavement cafs make this the afternoon, it attracts throngs of

perfect spot to relax and gaze smartly attired, window-shopping
seawards at the ferries, as they locals. Map N2
slip off to the nearby islands.
Map N2
Fish Market
This wonderfully
Metrovi Gallery
The Croatian-born,
pungent and colourful
market bursts into life
Expressionist sculptor Ivan every morning (except on
Metrovi (18831962) may Sunday, when it is closed).
not have realized his dream Here you can feast your eyes
of retiring to this bolthole on the rich spread of Adriatic
in Split, but it now provides seafood, accompanied by a
a fitting home for a fine cacophony of gesticulating
collection of his work sellers and hollering locals.
(see p40). Distant Agreements, Map N2
Metrovi Gallery
Marjan Hill
From the west side of Narodni Trg
When the Venetians
the town, steps lead up rumbled into Split, they moved
to this stretch of greenery, part the focus of the city away from
of a protected nature reserve. Diocletians Palace, westwards
The views from the and into this square. Highlights
top are spectacular, with the here are the 15th-century town
mountains stretching off towards hall and its grandiose ground-
Bosnia in the distance and large floor loggia. Map P2
swathes of the Dalmatian coast
and its many islands visible on a
clear day. Map N5
Archeological Museum
The collections housed here
feature a wide variety of artifacts
that date from the Roman, early
Christian and medieval periods in
Split, as well as a smaller legacy
from the time of Greek rule in
Dalmatia (see p40). Fish Market
24
Trg Republike
In contrast to the Roman
a large waterfront entertainment
centre and a buzzing nightlife
and Venetian parts of town, this (see p86). Map Q6
squares grand architecture hints
at old Vienna. Map N2
Coastal Walk

The coastline stretching
Bavice
A short walk southeast from
out from Bavice is lined with
beaches, cafs and nightclubs.
the centre of Split leads to this Wimbledon champion Goran
small bay, with one of the citys Ivanievi launched his career at
most popular summer beaches, a tennis club near here. Map Q6
Top 10 Events in
Diocletians Life
Emperor Diocletian
AD 245: Born into a The life of Diocletian is a true
lowly Dalmatian rags to riches story. He grew
family in Salona up in a family of modest

282: Finds favour with means in the Dalmatian town
Emperor Carus, and is of Salona, before embarking on
made a Roman Count a meteoric rise through the
283: Carus elevates military ranks of the Roman
his status to that Empire to assume the top
of consul position. He demonstrated a
284: Reaches his marked taste for grand construction projects; his
zenith, at the age of greatest legacy to Croatia is the lavish retirement
just 39, by becoming palace he built by the Adriatic, later to evolve into the
Roman Emperor city of Split. Retirement was an unconventional move
295: Commissions his for a Roman emperor one way or another, all of
seaside retirement his predecessors had died in the job. From his grand
palace in Split, which seaside residence, Diocletian looked on as the
takes around a decade Empire began to crumble, and it was here that
to complete he eventually took his own life. Given Diocletians
303: Outlaws notoriety as a persecutor of Christians, it is ironic that
Christianity, ordering Splits cathedral was later built on the site of his tomb.
the destruction of all
churches and the
persecution of Christians
305: Becomes the first
Roman emperor to
retire rather than die or
be murdered in the job
308: Declines request
to be reinstated as
emperor
315: Diocletians wife
(Prisca) and daughter
(Valeria) are murdered
by Emperor Licinius
c.316: Poisons himself Diocletian condemning St Cosmas and St Damian (predella
in his palace at Split from the Annalena Altarpiece by Fra Angelico, 1434)
25
Perhaps the writer George Bernard Shaw summed it up best when he gushed
On the last day of the Creation, God desired to crown his work, and thus
created the Kornati Islands There is nothing in Europe quite like this
necklace of 89 starkly beautiful islands, gleaming white against the deep
blue of the Adriatic. Designated a national park in 1980, they are sparsely
populated, as few people have been successful in eking out any kind of living
on these rocky strips of land. Today, the Kornati Islands are popular with day-
trippers, sailors and stressed-out city dwellers looking to get away from it all.
Top 10 Features
Murter

Sailing
Island Getaways
Kornat
Typical island of white
rock, bare of vegetation Seafood Restaurants
Katina
The grocery store
near ACI Pikera
Pikera
marina on the Lavsa
Panitula Vela islet is Mana
one of the few places Wildlife
where you can buy
food and drinks out
of season.
The islands sheltered

waters are perfect for
novice sailors.
Map B4
Office: Butina 2, 22243
Murter. 022 435 740. Murter
Murter harbour (above) The steep cliffs of Mana
www.kornati.hr. Adm is the main starting point
charge 40/80kn
(purchased inside/
on the mainland for trips
into the National Park. Island Getaways
Visitors can live like
outside park) Many ex-islanders (the Robinson Crusoe by hiring
In season, tickets can Kornatari), whose families their own private island.
be bought at marinas in bought land on the islands Without any electricity or
Betina (Dugi Otok), for grazing their livestock running water, their only
Murter, Biograd Na during the 19th century, human contact will be
Moru, Zadar and Punat. have now settled in Murter. the supply boat that drops
The National Park Office by every few days.
in Muter sells tickets
year round. Sailing
A variety of companies,
Murter-based travel both Croatian and foreign,
agencies arranging run day trips from Murter,
island accommodation Zadar, ibenik and even
include Coronata (www. Trogir to the Kornatis (right).
coronata.hr), Kornat Turist They can also organize a
(www.kornatturist.hr) weeks sailing, either
and ut Tours (www. bareback (without a
zuttours.hr) skipper) or as a charter
(with a skipper, who will
also do the cooking).
26
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Kornat
The largest island in the National Park, Kornat
(above), is just 25 km (16 miles) long and 2.5 km
(2 miles) wide. Sprinkled among its old stone
houses are a few decent restaurants, a 6th-century
Byzantine lookout tower and a small church. Katina
At the northern tip
of this island, the Mala
Seafood
Restaurants
Proversa waterway
separates the Kornatis
In summer, a number from Dugi Otok on the
of enterprising locals mainland. In the middle
turn their old stone of this channel lie the
houses, many of which remains of an ancient
have small jetties, into villa, dating back to a
restaurants. They offer time when the islands
first-rate, fresh, simply were a fashionable
presented seafood to holiday resort for
passing sailors. wealthy Romans.
Pikera
Another
island with a
discernible
Roman legacy
is Pikera.
There was
once a
substantial
village here,
though all that
remains these days is Kornati Islands
the ruined shell of this
settlement and an old
Orientation
Lavsa
Its good choice of
church. The marina on
Pikera (right) is the most
The Kornati Islands
National Park is located
sheltered, sandy coves developed in the islands. approximately seven
make Lavsa a popular nautical miles west of
destination with the
yachting fraternity. There Wildlife
Attempts at exploiting
Murter and around 15
nautical miles from
they can stop off and the limited natural Zadar and ibenik. In
idle away an afternoon, resources of the islands the summer, boats
swimming and basking may appear to have authorized to take
in the sunshine. stripped them of all tourists into the park line
wildlife. Yet they are home the waterfronts of these
Mana
Mana is best known
to over 300 plant varieties
and a similar number of
three towns. If you are
thinking of booking
for three things: its flora, animal species, including a day trip, ask to see a
its ruined village not in wild sheep (below). map first to ensure that
fact a real settlement but the tour really does
a set built for the 1950s include the park. The
film The Cruel Sea and best way, however, to
its steep, overhanging explore the parks many
cliffs, a spectacular sight islands thoroughly is on
when the Adriatic swell a private yacht.
crashes against them.
For more about sailing in Dalmatia See pp467 27

Cathedral of St James, ibenik
For over a century, the citizens of ibenik struggled to finance the building of
one of the Mediterraneans largest and finest cathedrals. Now, this remarkably
harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance styling dominates the city.
When the main architect, Juraj Dalmatinac, died in 1475, his pupil Nikola
Firentinac took over, completing the presbytery, choir, galleries, vaulted roof
and dome. It has taken international experts several years to restore the
building since its damage by Serbian shelling in 1991, during Croatias war
of independence. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001.
Top 10 Features
Array of Heads

Faade
Door of Lions
Gothic Portal
A face carved on the
cornice of the apse Dome
Vaulted Roof
The Gradska Vjenica
Interior
caf, opposite the
cathedral, makes a Transept
good spot to sit and Presbytery
admire the splendours Baptistry
of this great building,
over coffee or perhaps
a leisurely lunch.
Array of Heads
These 72 stone heads
adorn the exterior of the
apse. They are reputed to
To appreciate the represent, depending on
visual impact of the whom you believe, either
cathedral better, the cathedrals generous
climb up to the benefactors or locals who
nearby fortress of were too mean to dispense
St Ana, from where any of their wealth on the Inside ibenik Cathedral
you will be able to buildings construction.
take in fully its
massive scale as
Door of Lions
Two stone lions guard
well as the grandeur Juraj Dalmatinacs finely
of its exterior. crafted portico, supporting
statues of Adam and Eve
(below). The doorway
Map C4
itself is framed by ornately
Trg Republike
carved spiral columns.
Hrvatske 1
Open MaySep:
8:30amnoon, 68pm
daily; OctApr: 8:30am
noon, 46:30pm daily
Faade
Taking 105 years to
complete (14311536), the
cathedrals symmetrical
faade (above) is crafted
from local limestone and
Bramarble. Its impressive
dimensions are 38 m (125 ft)
by 14 m (46 ft). Look out for
the angel standing protect-
ively above the north portal.
28
Gothic Portal
The sculptures of Dome
Nikola Firentinacs
various saints sweep cupola (right), built
around the arch of the around an octagonal
main west door, although drum, is guarded by
many of these figures statues of St Michael,

have lost a limb or been St Martin and St James.
decapitated down the Parts of todays
years. Constructed during structure are recent
the first phase of building reconstructions, the
(143341), this elegant original sustaining
portal is one of the oldest damage from Serb
parts of the cathedral. shells in the 1990s.
Vaulted Roof
Like the rest of the
building, the roof was
constructed using
blocks of carefully
measured stone, the
individual pieces slotting
together perfectly. It is
widely regarded as a
tribute to the great
technical skill of the
stonecutters involved.
Interior
This triple-aisled space
is divided up by columns,
topped by pointed arches.
Notable features include
the four massive pillars
supporting the cupola, the
tombs of ibeniks bishops
and the altars of the Three
Kings and the Holy Cross.
Transept
You may feel less
ibenik Cathedral
than comfortable about Orientation
walking under the ibeniks cathedral is at
transept after you learn the heart of the old
that it was laced together town, which tumbles
without using mortar. downhill from the main
Presbytery
Both architects
Again, this is a testimony
to the talent and prowess
street, Kralja Zvonimira,
to the north, toward the
Dalmatinac and Firentinac of the local stonemasons. Adriatic, to the south. It
contributed to the is an easy walk west
presbyterys finely carved along the waterfront
stone stalls (above). Over from the bus station or
them are further highly a short taxi ride from
detailed, sculpted reliefs. the train station. There
is limited car parking on
Baptistry
The small bapistry, at
Obala Franje Tumana,
the waterfront street just
the end of the right aisle, south of the city walls;
houses a fine baptismal from Kralja Zvonimira
font supported by three turn onto Vladimira
putti (right). A quartet of Nazora, then take the
stone scallop shells leads third street on the right.
up to the carved roof.
For more Dalmatian places of worship See pp389 29

Zadar Old Town
Despite being pummelled by Allied bombs during World War II and by Serb
shells from 1991 to 1995, Zadars old town boasts a wealth of attractions,
all set within a pedestrianized peninsula that overlooks the warm, azure
waters of the Adriatic. In this lively city of just over 100,000 inhabitants are
two cathedrals one Catholic and one Orthodox and the remains of a
Roman forum, all squeezed into a compact historic centre that is awash with
cafs, bars and good restaurants. Zadar has yet to be discovered by mass
tourism, but in summer its streets buzz with visitors from other parts of Croatia.
Top 10 Features
Land Gate

Church of St Simeon
Five Wells Square
Narodni Trg
Amphorae in the
Archeological Museum iroka
Roman Forum
Stop off at the Forum
Caf and sip a cold
Archeological Museum
pivo (beer) or bijela Church of St Donat
kava (milky coffee) at Cathedral of St Anastasia
one of the outside Church of St Elijah
tables that overlook
the Roman Forum.
Stroll along the

Obala Kralja Petra
Kremira IV in the
evening to enjoy the
full glory of Zadars
magnificent sunsets.
Map B3
Land Gate
This voluminous gate
Church of St Elijah, altar
Church of St Simeon:
Trg ime Budinia. 023
thought to have been
completed in the 16th Five Wells Square
Late into the 19th
211 705. Open JunSep: century by Italian architect century, this complex of
8amnoon, 68pm daily; Michele Sanmicheli guards wells was where the
OctMay: open for mass the southern entrance to citizens of Zadar drew
Cathedral of St the old town. A Venetian their fresh water. Each of
Anastasia: Trg Svete lion (above) stares down the five wells is identical
Stos. 023 251 708. from this portal, revealing in design. Also on the
Open 8am1pm, 5 Zadars links with Venice. square is the Captains
6:30pm daily House, which has recently
Archeological Museum:
Trg Opatice ike 1. 023
Church of
St Simeon
been renovated and hosts
modern art exhibitions.
250 542. Open JunSep: The church that stands
9am-1pm, 59pm here today is a 17th-
MonSat; OctMay: century reconstruction.
9am2pm MonSat. It is home to a
Adm charge 10kn 14th-century silver
Church of St Donat: sarcophagus (right)
winter: 9am3pm daily; that holds the remains
summer: 9am11pm of St Simeon. On his
daily. Adm charge 6kn saints day, 8 October,
his relics are paraded
around the city.
30 For more on Zadars churches See p39

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This busy square (above), once the
>G6
centre of Venetian Zadar, boasts a brace
B>K
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of pavement cafs and a Venetian-style
:
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town hall with a loggia and a 16th-century Zadar
DK

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guard house. During the summer, there Old Town
is often an arts and crafts market here.
iroka
Due to bombing
during World War II, this
main artery through the
old town features more
than its fair share of
bland, 1950s concrete
buildings. But it also has
chic cafs and shops that
teem with life in the
evening and at weekends.
Roman Forum
Little of this ancient
forum remains, as many
of its stones were used
as building blocks for the
rest of the old town. A
pillar, where criminals
were once flogged, still
stands, along with a
scattering of odd pieces
of carved stonework.
The Siege of Zadar

Archeological
Museum Cathedral of
St Anastasia As war engulfed the
Sited on the Roman Just north of St Donats fledgling Croatian
Forum, the collections is this Romanesque Republic in August 1991,
here feature various finds cathedral, founded in the Yugoslav Army forces
from the city and 9th century. The present and Serb irregulars
surrounding area, which structure dates from the descended on Zadar,
document a swathe of 12th13th centuries. which lay perilously close
Zadars heritage from the The belltower was to the disputed Krajina
Stone Age right through completed as late region, where Serbs had
to the 11th century. as 1893. declared autonomy.
They quickly captured
the outskirts and the
Church of
St Donat Church of
St Elijah citys airport, but hastily
Also on the Orthodox since marshalled Croat forces
Roman Forum, the 18th century, managed to avert the
this 9th-century this modest fall of the city. A brutal
church (right) is church stands in siege ensued, and it took
Croatias largest the small Serb the UN three months to
Byzantine building. The enclave of the old town; broker a ceasefire. Even
unusual circular design itself worth a wander so, the shelling of Zadar
gives it great acoustics around. The collection of continued until hostilities
for the summer concerts 16th19th-century icons finally ceased in 1995.
that are held here. held here is impressive.
31
Left The siege of Dubrovnik, 1991 Right Crusaders conquering Zadar, 1202
Moments in Croatian History

4th Century BC: Greeks
and Illyrians in Dalmatia
quashed by the superior power
of the Huns and the mighty
Greek settlers began to cross Venetian doges. The latter soon
the seas and join the Illyrian started to wield greater influence
tribes who had already been over Dalmatia.
eking out a living on the

Dalmatian coastline. As the
population along the coastal strip 1202: City of Zadar
Sacked by the Crusaders
expanded, trade links and proto- The Dalmatian city of Zadar was
settlements started to flourish. attacked and looted by Christian
Crusaders as the Balkans
1st Century AD: Romans

Move into Dalmatia
became a battleground for
Christian Europe to the west
The Roman Empire surged and the increasingly powerful
eastwards, engulfing whole Ottoman Empire to the east.
swathes of Croatia and snuffing The Turkish threat was to grow
out most of the indigenous over the following centuries.
opposition in the process.
Wine production flourished
as the conquerors brought 1593: Battle of Sisak
In 1578, the Austrian
their expertise to a land Habsburgs had created the
whose soil and climate Vojna Krajina, a military
made it perfect for frontier intended to prevent
producing both red and further Turkish advances into
white wines. Europe. The decisive victory
came at the landmark Battle
6th Century AD:

Arrival of Slavic Tribes
of Sisak, just south of Zagreb,
where the Ottomans were
Slavic tribes from the north finally halted. Habsburg
began to arrive on the influence on Croatia
Dalmatian coast. continued right up until
World War I.
Croatian
925: First
AD
King
1699: Dalmatia Under
Crowned Venetian Control
Croatia became a nation Large swathes of Dalmatia
under King Tomislav, the fell under the control of
Father of the Croats, Venice, although the Republic
whose achievement it was of Ragusa (Dubrovnik, see
to unite the country for pp89) retained its
the first time. Croatias independence from
independence, both Venice and
however, was soon King Tomislav Constantinople.
34 Preceding pages View of Dubrovniks Old City from the south

1808: Napoleon Annexes
Republic of Ragusa
Top 10 Historical
Figures
In 1806, French troops saved
Dubrovnik from a month-long
siege by Russian and Montenegrin
Emperor Diocletian
Diocletian (245316) chose
to build his retirement palace

forces. Two years later, Napoleon on the Adriatic coast, founding
claimed Ragusa for France. Split in the process (see p25).
King Tomislav
Many Croats still consider
Croatias first king a hero.
Grgur of Nin
This 10th-century bishop
campaigned for the use of
the Croatian language (rather
than Latin) in church services.
Napoleon Bonaparte
An unlikely champion of
Slavic expression, Napoleon
(17691821) promoted Slavic
languages in schools in the
Illyrian Provinces.
Napoleon Bonaparte Ban Josip Jelai

Croatian army officer and
nationalist Jelai (180159)
stood up to the mighty
1945: Tito Comes to Power
The Croatian-born marshal Austro-Hungarian Empire.
came to power in the aftermath

of World War II, and set about
Juraj Strossmayer
Bishop Strossmayer (1815
establishing a socialist republic 1905) called for a pan-Slavic
state, helping to clear the way
where ethnic differences between for the formation of Yugoslavia.
Serbs, Croats, Macedonians,
Slovenes, Montenegrins and
Bosnians were suppressed in
Ante Paveli
Leader of the fascist Ustae
favour of allegiance to the movement, Paveli (18891959)
became head of the short-lived
mother country. Until his death Independent State of Croatia
in 1980, Tito skilfully played the during World War II.
West off against the Soviet Bloc,
and built one of the biggest
armed forces in Europe.
Marshal Tito
Tito (18921980) fought
the Axis forces before leading
Yugoslavia after World War II.
1991: Croatia Declares its
Independence
Franjo Tuman
A landslide referendum saw Tuman (192299) became
Croatia declare independence first president of the newly
independent Croatia in 1991.
from Yugoslavia. Irregular Serbian
units, backed up by the Yugoslav
military, attacked the fledgling Stepjan Mesi
A former Tuman ally, the
republic and besieged Dubrovnik. current Croatian president
Hostilities had ceased by the end (b. 1934) has reinvented him-
self as the respectable face
of 1995, and all captured Croatian of modern Croatian politics.
territory was returned by 1998.
35
Left Dubrovnik Middle Church of Our Lady of Spilica, Kut Right St Marks Tower, Trogir
Old Towns
Dubrovnik
Lord Byrons Pearl of the
Adriatic is Croatias most famous
set-piece. Encapsulated within
the hulking medieval walls is a
perfectly preserved Baroque city-

state, sandwiched between a
sweep of limestone mountains
to the north and the Adriatic to Split old and new towns
the south. Rediscovered by
tourists in recent years, the Old
City can get crowded in summer, Split
No staid museum piece,
but theres no disguising its allure Splits old town is a living and
(see pp815, 5866). breathing slice of history, formed
around the confines of the
Korula Town
This mini-Dubrovnik matches
Emperor Diocletians palatial
waterfront retirement home,
its more illustrious sibling in and adapted over the centuries
everything but scale. Enjoying its by the Spliani (see pp223, 25).
own rocky promontory, this old
town, carved over the centuries
by the Venetians, still feels like Zadar
Neither World War II nor
an oasis not yet well acquainted the bombing of the early 1990s
with the 20th century, let alone could dent the spirit of this lively,
the 21st. Within its walls lie bustling town. It may lack the
churches, seafood restaurants, architectural cohesion of Trogir,
and the site where, locals believe, Korula and Dubrovnik, but its
their most famous son, Marco stunning setting reclining on
Polo, was born (see pp1617, 92). its own peninsula in a flurry of
churches, Roman ruins and
Trogir
Set picturesquely on an islet
pavement cafs more than
makes up for it (see pp3031).
between the mainland and the
Hvar Town
island of iovo, this grand
creation can make a credible
It is easy to see why
claim for the title of finest Hvar Town is the summer
old town on the getaway of choice for
Adriatic coast. Trogirs Croatias cognoscenti.
unity of design makes The charming old core,
it special, which is crammed with
why the locals call it Venetian architecture,
the town museum Church of Chrysogonus, sweeps around a wide
(see pp1819). Zadar Adriatic bay. High up
36
ibenik
above, a rambling fort watches

over the summer scene of Pag Town
Pags compact old town is
pavement cafs, fish restaurants largely the work of Dalmatian
and bobbing tour boats. The main architect Juraj Dalmatinac, who
square is dominated by the expertly crafted a web of streets
imposing contours of St Stephens designed to afford inhabitants
Cathedral (see pp39, 84). protection against the biting bora
winds from the north. On one
Kut (Vis Town)

Relatively few visitors have
flank the Adriatic laps, while on
the other three the starched
discovered the historic Kut district white rocks of Pag island stretch
of Vis Town, with its outstanding away towards the hulking
Renaissance triple-naved church, shadow of the distant Velebit
Our Lady of Spilica, its swathe of Mountains (see p77).
old Venetian merchant dwellings,
and its trio of first-rate restaurants.
In the ramble of narrow lanes near Lastovo Town
Unusually, Lastovo Town
the waterfront, old women hang turns its back on the Adriatic and
out their washing from balconies tumbles in the opposite direction.
built by wealthy Venetians, while Architecturally less ornate than
the local cats look on (see p84). many other Dalmatian towns, its
most striking buildings are a group
ibenik
The most Croatian city on
of 20 or so Renaissance stone
houses, characterized by their
the coast (in that it wasnt built high, broad terraces (see p95).
by the Romans or the
Venetians), ibenik <dhe^
EV\
boasts a charming old <gVVX 9gkVg 7DHC>6"
=:G8:<DK>C6
town that rambles up EdhZYVg_Z
OVYVg
in search of the citys 7Zc`dkVX
@c^c
fort through a tangle A^kcd
BjgiZg
of narrow streets that H`gVY^c
H^c_ @dc_^X
have not yet been air- ^WZc^`
brushed for the needs Igd\^g Db^
Heaî BdhiVg
of mass tourism. The 7gV BV`Vgh`V
Cathedral of St James, =kVg =kVg

BZi`dk^
over a hundred years 6Yg^Vi^X @ji EadZ
K^h @dgjaV
in the making, is its HZV EZa_ZVX BVa^Hidc
glorious centrepiece AVhidkd Ba_Zi

9jWgdkc^`
(see pp289, 73). NJMFT LN
37
Left Cathedral of St Stephen, Hvar Middle Cathedral of St James, ibenik Right St Donats, Zadar
Cathedrals and Churches

Cathedral
ibenik
of St James, lacks in size, it more than makes
up for with its perfect proportions
Dominating ibenik, this and unusual cylindrical design.
UNESCO-World-Heritage-listed Map B3
edifice is a blaze of Gothic and
Renaissance styles. Its construc-

tion took more than a century Church of St Nicholas, Nin
A short drive south of Nin
and nearly bankrupted the towns brings you to one of the most
citizens. The main architect, charming ecclesiastical structures
Dalmatian Juraj Dalmatinac, in Europe a small, 11th-century
didnt live to see the finished church built on a former burial
creation; the work was mound. Today it makes an
completed by one of his own intensely atmospheric sight,
pupils, the very capable Nikola standing firm on a windswept
Firentinac (see pp289). plain with the Adriatic to one
side and the stark, haunting
Cathedral
Trogir
of St Lawrence, expanse of the Velebit mountains
rising up on the other. Map B3
The 13th-century west portal
by local master Radovan is the
pice de resistance of this Church of St Blaise,
Dubrovnik
remarkable cathedral. Look out Dubrovniks highly revered patron
for the figures of Adam and Eve saint, St Blaise, is said to have
on either side, standing proudly saved the city from sacking at
over a pair of Venetian lions the hands of the Venetians. He
(indicating the influence Venice
once had over Trogir). Arranged
around the upper sections of the
portal are depictions of the
saints, and calendar scenes of
local life (see pp1819).
Church
Nin
of the Holy Cross,
Spiritually and symbolically one

of the most important churches
in Croatia, the Church of the
Holy Cross is also one of the
oldest it dates back to the 9th
century, when the early Croatian
kings were on the throne and
Nin was the focal point of the
countrys religious life. What it Church of St Blaise, Dubrovnik
38 In Dalmatia, admission to church buildings is generally free,

unless there is a special exhibition or event on.
pops up throughout the city, but
nowhere is he more pleasingly
represented than in this 18th-
century church dedicated to him
(see pp11, 59).

Dubrovnik Cathedral
Legend has it that Dubrovnik
Cathedral was founded by
Richard the Lionheart in gratitude
for his life being spared during a
violent storm that washed him
up on the island of Lokrum. True Cathedral of St Anastasia, Zadar
or not, this is one of the
countrys most striking religious Byzantine structure, which in
buildings. Among its treasures turn had stood on the site of the
are impressive Baroque frescoes, Forum of the ancient Roman
the Byzantine skull case of St town of Jadar. Somewhat
Blaise, and a fine Ascension by overshadowed by its rather more
Titian (see p59). celebrated neighbour St Donats,
this survivor of Allied air raids
Cathedral of St Stephen,
Hvar Town, Hvar
and Serb shelling should not be
overlooked. There is a plaque
Be sure to pop in here if you are commemorating the visit of Pope
lucky enough to catch the door Alexander in 1177 (see p31).
ajar the opening hours are
erratic and limited. The 16th-
century Renaissance building Church of St Donat, Zadar
Last used as a church in
stands on the site of an old 1797, this fine example of
Benedictine monastery. One Byzantine architecture has
highlight is the understated become the emblem of Zadar.
13th-century Madonna and Child Like the cathedral nearby, it
on the altar. Map D6 stands on the site of the old
Roman forum. Latin inscriptions
Church of St Michael,
Komia, Vis
can be seen in both the interior
and exterior stonework, as
The Church of St Michael stones from the forum were
sits amidst vines on a used as building blocks (see p31).
steep bluff overlooking
EV\
the sleepy fishing <gVVX 9gkVg 7DHC>6"
C^c =:G8:<DK>C6
town of Komia. Ask EdhZYVg_Z
locally for opening 7Zc`dkVX @c^c
OVYVg
times. Map D6 BjgiZg A^kcd
H`gVY^c
@dc_^X
^WZc^` H^c_
Cathedral of St
Anastasia, Zadar Igd\^g
Heaî
Db^ BdhiVg
Zadars magnificent 7gV BV`Vgh`V
Romanesque cathedral, =kVg =kVg

EadZ BZi`dk^
built from the 12th to 6Yg^Vi^X K^h
K^h @dgjaV
13th centuries, stands HZV EZa_ZVX BVa^Hidc
Ba_Zi 9jWgdkc^`
on the site of an AVhidkd

earlier (9th-century) NJMFT LN
39
Left Maritime Museum, Dubrovnik Right Archaeological Museum, Split
Museums and Galleries

Archeological
Museum, Split
Star exhibits at this museum
include Ancient Greek ceramics,
weaponry from the 6th to 9th
centuries, over 70,000 coins,

and amphorae recovered from
shipwrecks. Zrinjsko-Frankopanska
25 Map P5 021 318 721 Open Jun
Sep: 9am1pm, 58pm TueFri, 9am1pm
Sat & Sun; OctMay: 9am2pm TueFri,
9am1pm Sat & Sun Adm charge
Distant Agreements, Metrovi Gallery, Split Maritime

Dubrovnik
Museum,
The most interesting part of the

Metrovi Gallery, Split
More than 80 of Ivan collection illustrates Dubrovniks
naval might between the 12th and
Metrovis sculptures, including 14th centuries, when it threatened
a huge Piet and outdoor bronze Venices supremacy (see p9).
works, can today be viewed at
his former home. The dining room
has been left largely as it was and Tusculum, Solin
This museum, based at the
contains the sculptors furniture Roman ruins of Salona (see p81),
and family portraits. etalite disseminates information about
Ivana Metrovia 46 Map N6 021 340 the site and organizes guided
800 Open mid-MaySep: 9am9pm Tue tours by prior arrangement. Put
Sun; Octmid-May: 9am4pm TueSat, Manastirina bb Map D5 021 212 900
10am3pm Sun Adm charge Open summer: 7am8pm
MonSat, 9am2pm Sun;
Museum
of Croatian
winter: 7am3pm MonSat,
8am4pm Sun Adm charge
Archeological
Monuments, Split
One of Croatias oldest Museum of
the Island
museums has a fine Carving, Museum of Croatian
of Bra, krip
collection of jewellery, Archaeological Monuments Treasures from all over
weapons, stonework Bra are housed in the
and epigraphics (inscriptions Radojkovi Tower, which shows
carved on stone). etalite Ivana traces of Illyrian, Roman and early
Metrovia 18 Map N6 021 323 901 Croatian architecture. Map E5
www.mhas-split.hr Open 9:30am4pm, 021 630 033 Open 10am6pm daily
TueFri, 9:30am1pm Sat Adm charge (ask locally for key holder) Adm charge
40 Note that opening times are liable to change; its advisable to

check in advance of your visit.
Hermitage of Blaca, Bra
This 16th-century monastery
Top 10 Public Statues
and its contents, including Grgur Nin, Nin
Ivan Metrovis larger-
correspondence between the last than-life bronze monument
priest and the Royal Astronomical to 10th-century cleric Bishop

Society in London, have been Gregory of Nin.
frozen in time since 1963.
Roaming goats and a stunning Grgur Nin, Split
Another colossal image
location enhance its appeal. of Gregory of Nin, who
Access on foot only. Map E5 campaigned for Mass to be
conducted in Croatian.
Marko Maruli, Split

Metrovis homage to the
15th-century Split-born writer
often dubbed the father of
Croatian Literature.
Street Art, Split

Look out for the giant
Amphorae, Archaeological Museum, Vis Town teacup on Marmontova and the
new silver bridge on the Riva.
Archeological
Vis Town
Museum,
Orlandos
Dubrovnik
Column,
Sculptures, ceramics, weapons
Standard-bearer for the Divine
and everyday items illuminate Republic, Orlando flies the
life in the Ancient Greek town of Libertas flag of the Dubrovnik
Issa (modern Vis Town). etalis Festival in summer (see p11).
Viki boj 12 Map D6 021 711 729 Open
summer: 9am1pm, 57pm TueSun; Ivan Gunduli,
Dubrovnik
winter: 9am1pm TueSun Adm charge Characteristically oversized
Metrovi statue, honouring
National Museum, Zadar

Housed in the Benedictine
the life and work of this local
17th-century poet.
monastery, this museum docu-
ments Zadar and its environs from Juraj Dalmatinac,
Pag Town
the 16th to the 19th centuries A lifelike statue of the man
through photographs, paintings who designed Pag Town.
and impressive scale models.
Poljana Pape Aleksandra III bb Map B3 Franjo Tuman, Pridriga
A giant statue of the former
023 231 851 Open 9amnoon, 58pm Croatian president takes centre
MonFri; 9amnoon Sun Adm charge stage in this small town, which
was decimated during the war
of the early 1990s (see p35).
Archeological
Zadar
Museum,
The exhibits chart the citys Juraj Dalmatinac,

ibenik
evolution from Neolithic times The architect keeps a watch-
through to Roman settlement, ful eye on the cathedral he
the Byzantine era and the early didnt live to see completed.
Middle Ages. Highlights include
a model of the Roman forum, an Father Andrija Kai
Mioi!Makarska
impressive collection of glassware Impressive tribute to this
and artifacts from the Liburnian 18th-century priest and poet.
period (see p31).
In Croatian addresses, bb is short for bez broj, meaning 41

without number.
Left Prina Bay, Lumbarda Right Zlatni Rat, Bra
Beaches
Zlatni Rat, Bra
The Golden Cape a
but the sweeping views of old
Dubrovnik are hard to beat, the
popular sweep of fine shingle waters are clean, and the island
that curls out, lapped by the of Lokrum tempts offshore.
currents of the Adriatic, from
Map K5
the pine-fringed southern flank
of the island of Bra is much
eulogized, and photos of this Pakleni Islands, Hvar
The Islands of Hell may
distinctive landmark near the not sound too inviting, but this
resort of Bol are, deservedly, necklace of tiny islands just off
omnipresent in holiday brochures Hvar provides plenty of great
Map E5 places to laze by the sea. A short
boat trip from Hvar Town and
Orebi
You couldnt wish for a more
you find yourself sitting by the
Adriatic with very little in the
spectacular location to unfurl way of tourist development to
your towel than the beach of this spoil the surroundings. Clothes
small resort, with its collage of are very much optional on Jerolim.
fine shingle and sand. Across Map D6
the water, on the very tip of the
Peljeac Peninsula, you can see
the terracotta roof tiles of Nin
The Northern Dalmatian town
Korula Town, as starched of Nin is renowned as a site of
mountainscapes embrace all religious and historical importance,
around (see p91). Map H1 but its also surrounded by real
sand beaches, something of a
City Beach, Dubrovnik

The sand may be imported,
rarity in the region. Development
remains low-key, and when the
and theres an entry charge to wind blows in strongly from the
the section with sun loungers, Velebit mountains the waters are
best left to windsurfers,
but on a hot summers
day there are few better
places to be (see p74).
Map B3
Telaica
Park
Nature
Framed around the epic

sweep of Telaica Bay,
this nature park on Dugi
Otok is currently being
City Beach, Dubrovnik reforested after a serious
42
fire in 1995. There are plenty of
little nooks and crannies where
you can search for your own bit
of paradise, but beware visiting
yachts that tend to venture into

isolated coves when you least
expect it. Note that facilities are
rather limited. Map B4
Gradac
The small town of Gradac
boasts the longest beach in
Croatia, and the best on the
Makarska Riviera. Shingle and
pebbles abound along the tree-
fringed shoreline. Out to sea,
the island of Hvar looms on the
horizon. Some sections of the Gradac, Makarska Riviera
beach offer tourist facilities;
others are far more rustic. In summer there are boats as well.
summer it can be tricky to find a If Prina Bay gets a little too
secluded spot (see p82). Map J1 crowded for your liking, nearby
Bilin al tends to be a bit quieter
Zrc, Novalja, Pag

Not quite yet the Croatian
Map H2
Ibiza it aims to become, this

sweep of sand and shingle set Koloep
Just a short ferry-ride from
apart from the resort of Novalja Dubrovnik, the island of Koloep
is nonetheless spectacular, with has a good sandy beach, which
the starched scenery of Pag all is usually a lot quieter than the
around and the Velebit mountains ones in and around the city. This
rising in the background. Three is not a glitzy resort or family-
large nightclubs, beach bars, and friendly oasis just a quiet and
fast-food outlets fail to spoil the unassuming spot for those
scenery of a beach that feels looking to venture off the beaten
pretty remote from just about track (see p95). Map K2
everywhere. Map A2
CdkVa_V
Prina Bay, <dhe^
EV\ 7DHC>6"
=:G8:<DK>C6
Lumbarda <gVVX 9gkVg
While chocolate-box
C^c EdhZYVg_Z
OVYVg
beauty Korula Town 9j\^ 7Zc`dkVX
@c^c
Did`
gets all the plaudits, BjgiZg A^kcd
H`gVY^c
the nearby town of ^WZc^` H^c_ @dc_^X
Lumbarda has much Heaî
Igd\^g
better beaches. Prina Db^
BdhiVg
BV`Vgh`V
Bay has a decent 7gV
sandy beach with a =kVg <gVYVX BZi`dk^
K^h DgZW^
sprinkling of cafs in a 6Yg^Vi^X

@dgjaV
EadZ
very low-key scene. HZV BVa^Hidc

Ba_Zi
Buses run daily from
AVhidkd

9jWgdkc^`
Korula Town, while in NJMFT LN
43
Left Hiking Right Scuba diving
Outdoor Activities
Windsurfing
Windswept coast-
Diving Federation for
more information.
lines near Nin, on Bra, Croatian Diving Federation:
and along the Peljeki www.diving-hrs.hr
Channel (Korula and
Peljeac) are all popular

haunts for windsurfers Sea Kayaking
This is a sport that
Orca Sport: www.orca- experts expect to take
sport.com Perna: www. off in a big way over the
perna-surf.com Windsurfing coming years, with the
majority of trips centred
Rafting
Adrenaline-fuelled white-
around Dubrovnik and the Elafiti
Islands. You can take anything
water rafting trips are becoming from a short excursion to a
increasingly popular, with a week-long break. Local travel
number of operators organizing agencies in Dubrovnik can
trips on the Cetina River. Trips organize sea-kayaking tours.
generally last from three to four
Climbing
hours, and take place on the
lower stretch of this 105-km- The vaulting peaks of the
(65-mile-) long waterway, around Biokovo, Dinaric and Velebit
20 minutes from the coastal mountain ranges have an
town of Omi (see p83). Huck irresistible allure to mountain-
Finn: www.huck-finn.hr eers, who flock here from all
over Europe. Paklenica National
Park is well set up for climbers;
bolted routes offer a wide variety
of challenges on the lower
slopes, while free climbing is
also possible.
Rafting
Walking and Hiking
Dalmatia has an almost
Scuba Diving
Dive schools along the
infinite number of walking and
hiking opportunities, from easy,
Dalmatian coast offer trial dives, low-level walks to steep ascents
diving courses, equipment hire, requiring a higher level of
night dives and wreck dives. fitness. Seek local advice, and
Some of the best diving can be ensure that you have the right
done with Bievos Blue Grotto equipment. UK-based Headwater
(see p84) from the island of Vis, organize walking holidays around
where there are myriad offshore the Dalmatian coast. Headwater:
wrecks. Contact the Croatian www.headwater.com
44
Tennis
National heroes Goran
Top 10 Spectator
Sports
Ivanievi, Mario Ani and
Karolina prem have all fuelled
Croatias love of tennis. Public
Football
Dalmatians are passionate
about football. Football shirts

courts can be found near resort and the graffiti of their fans
hotels and towns throughout (known as the Torcida) attest
Dalmatia. One of the regions to the fact that most support
most famous courts is in the premier-division Hajduk Split.
Bavice area of Split, where
Ivanievi trained as a youngster. Basketball
Dalmatias most famous
stars, Draen Petrovi and
Swimming
Given Croatias lengthy
Kreimir osi (now both sadly
deceased), fuelled the nations
dedication to the sport.
coastline, its hardly surprising
that swimming is a popular
outdoor sport. Those not keen Tennis
Because Croatia has its
to swim in the sea will find own home-grown tennis
enclosed pools near the celebrities, Croatians like to
waterfronts in Korula, Split and watch the game as much as
they like to play it.
ibenik, amongst others.
Snorkelling Sailing
Cheap and easy, with a Regular regattas and boat
shows have made sailing more
than just a participant sport.
bountiful coastline to choose
from; just don a mask and
flippers, and youre away. Beach Volleyball
During peak season, beach
volleyball matches spring up
Picigin, Split along the Makarska Riviera.
A summer sport peculiar to
Split, picigin is more about Water Polo
A strong national team
posing than point-scoring. Head has secured water polo a
to Bavice (see p25), stand in sizable following.
the sea with a small black rubber
ball, wearing your best swimwear Boanje
A popul ar sport similar to
and designer sunglasses, throw the French game ptanque.
the ball nonchalantly then catch
it with one hand, and you will
blend in with the Spliani.
Extreme Sports
Bras annual extreme
sports festival is held in July
each year. Enjoy free climbing,
windsurfing, skating, biking,
paragliding, and more.
Handball
Handball has surged in
popularity since Croatia won
gold at the 2004 Olympics.
Rowing
The Skelin brothers from
Split took silver at the 2004
Olympics. Most Dalmatian
towns have a rowing club.
Picigin
45
Left Hvar Town Right Sailing in the Kornati Islands
Sailing Routes
DubrovnikKorula
This southern-Adriatic route MurterKornati Islands
The sheltered nature of the
eases its way from Dubrovnik Kornati archipelago is a virtual
(see pp815, 5866) to Koloep, guarantee of calm weather,
Lopud, ipan (see p95) and Mljet making the Kornatis a favourite
(see p92). From the Mljet National haunt of novice or inexperienced

Park, head up the Peljeki Channel sailors, as well as learn-to-sail
en route to Korula Town (see course operators.
pp1617). A detour from ipan
to Ston, from where you can
walk to Mali Ston (see p92) and Zadar Archipelago
At the height of summer,
savour first-rate Adriatic fish, is when the Kornatis are crowded,
well worth it. the Zadar Archipelago, with over
200 islands, offers
SplitVis
Many yachts
sailors a more
tranquil alternative.
make a beeline for (For Dugi Otok, Silba,
Bra and Hvar, and Paman, Ugljan and
miss out on the I, see p77.)
beauty of olta
ibenik
(much favoured by
the Spliani) and Vis.
Archipelago
Hvar certainly has its If you want to be
attractions, though able to find secluded
not least, plenty of bays at any time of
secluded coves Sailing from Split to Vis year, try the islands
flanked by impressive near ibenik.
mountains (For Bra, Hvar, olta Highlights include irje, Privi
and Vis, see p84). (see p77), Kaprije, Tijat, Obonjan
and Zlarin. Zlarin (the closest to
SplitDugi Otok
This stunning though less
ibenik) is particularly appealing;
cars are banned, and residents
well-trodden route takes sailors still rely on the land and sea for
from Split (see pp245) to olta, a living (agriculture, fishing,
Rogoznica (see p76) and irje, sponge-diving and wine-making
then into the Kornati Islands are its key industries).
archipelago (see pp267), where
TrogirLastovo
Pikera has a good marina. From
here, make the journey to Dugi
Watch enviously from Trogir
Otok before returning by way of marina (see pp1819) as the
Primoten (see p74), which has millionaires moor up on the Riva
become quite a hub for sailors before heading due south to
in recent years. Bra, Hvar (see p84), Korula
46 The usually calm Croatian waters are perfect for beginners. Neilson
(www.neilson.co.uk) arrange learn to sail flotilla holidays.
(see pp1617, 95) and Lastovo Top 10 Sailing Tips
(see p95). For a real Robinson
Crusoe experience, be sure to Know the Rules
Before you sail, check the
explore the islets to the northeast local rules of navigation with
esvinica, Kruica, Stomoria the Association of Nautical

and Saplon. Saplon has the Tourism. Bulevar Osloboenja
added bonus of sand beaches. 23, 51000 Rijeka 051 209 147
TrogirDubrovnik Join a Flotilla

Consider joining a flotilla;
Be warned: this is a trip for shorter distances and tuition
serious sailing enthusiasts, with make them ideal for beginners.
big distances between stops.
Starting from Trogir, the route Reputable Operators
Adriatic Holidays, Sunsail
takes in Hvar, Vis, Vela Luka and Cosmos Yachting are all
(Korula), Mljet and Dubrovnik. well-established businesses.
www.adriaticholidaysonline.
com www.sunsail.com
www.cosmosyachting.com
Charter a Skipper
He or she will know the
waters, and may even cook.
Vital Documentation
Make sure that you have
certified crew and passenger
lists, as well as proof that the
The island of Pag boat is seaworthy, has third-
party insurance, and that you
are authorized to sail it.
ZadarRab
Leave the Zadar archipelago
behind and search out the island Pre-book Marinas
From June to September,
of Pag (see pp37, 77), with its mooring space is at a premium.
ghostly beauty and empty bays.
From Pag, break away from Sail During the
Shoulder Season
Dalmatia altogether and explore For good weather without the
the neighbouring island of Rab summer crowds, May and
in the Kvarner Gulf, where the September are best.
picture-perfect Rab Town is a
highlight not to be missed. Weather Forecasts
Check the weather on your
VHF radio. For Dubrovnik the
SplitDubrovnik
An extended one-way charter
frequency is 73; for Split, 67.
allows a thorough exploration of

central and southern Dalmatia
Pack Sparingly
Its surprising how many
beginners try to fit six huge
taking in Split, Trogir, olta, Bra, suitcases on board; remember
Hvar, Vis, Korula, Mljet and that space is at a premium.
Dubrovnik. Take the time to
explore islands and islets, like
Pakleni Otok (see pp42, 84) and
Annual Berths
If you are planning to berth
your boat in Croatia long-term,
the islands around Mljets Polae consider joining the ACI
Bay. This route also allows an (Adriatic Croatia International
exploration of more than one Club). www.aci-club.hr
settlement on each island.
Skippered boats can be hired from companies such as Sunsail 47

(see above) and Hidden Croatia (www.hiddencroatia.com).
Left Adio Mare, Korula Right Stellon, Split
Restaurants
Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town
This enchanting restaurant Zlatna Ribica, Brodarica
Business types flock here to
is set in the midst of an elegant impress their clients, and it is
sculpture garden. The fish could easy to see why. Fresh fish is
not be fresher, and the service the speciality of this upscale
is every bit as stylish as the restaurant, with a feast of

surrounds (see p87). langoustines, grilled platters and
brodet (fish stew served with
polenta) complemented by fine
wines and a stunning view over
the island of Krapanj (see p79).
Foa, Zadar
The interior is nothing
special, but the location by the
Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town sea, looking up towards Zadars
old town walls is fabulous.
Vila Koruna, Mali Ston

Dine on oysters and mussels
The terrace is a divine place to
relax and enjoy plump grilled
plucked straight from the waters squid on a warm day (see p79).
in front of the restaurant. With
fish and shellfish this fresh, you
may prefer them to be served Stellon, Split
Fine restaurants are thin on
simply, but the restaurant is the ground in Split, but this
equally adept at conjuring up popular bolthole in the Bavice
dishes with that extra touch of complex manages to please
flair (see p97). many tastes. For those not keen
on seafood, theres steak with
Adio Mare, Korula Town

This bustling seafood
blue cheese and truffle sauce, or
for lunch, pizza baked in a wood-
restaurant is located in the old fired oven (see p87).
quarter of Korula Town, close to
Nostromo, Split
the reputed birthplace of Marco
Polo. Fragrant smoke billows Nostromo is the best place
from the fish grill, beckoning to eat in the centre of town. Its
in the crowds but just by the fish
despite the volume market, so the
of diners, the seafood is about as
restaurant manages fresh as it gets. The
to maintain the decor is light and
quality, and few airy a refreshing
leave unsatisfied change from nautical
(see p97). Fish platter, Nostromo, Split theming (see p87).
48 For a guide to restaurant price ranges See p69

Taverna Rustica,
Dubrovnik
Top 10 Culinary
Highlights
Part of the Excelsior Hotel but
breaking the traditional hotel-
restaurant mould, this cosy
Adriatic Platter
A generic term for a feast
of Adriatic fish and shellfish,

retreat beyond the Ploe Gate usually grilled (na aru), and
has a snug couples area, served with garlic, lemon,
where diners just call when they potatoes and mangold (blitva).
need a waiter. Cuisine-wise, the
emphasis is on stylishly prepared Ston Oysters (Otrige)
Head to Mali Ston for
(and none too rustic) Dalmatian divine oysters straight from
fish and meat specialities. If the the beds just offshore.
conversation falters, the stunning
views of the old town should be
a good talking point (see p69).
Pag Cheese (Paki Sir)
Pag produces a distinctive
salted sheeps cheese the
finest cheese in the country.
Atlas Club Nautika,

Dubrovnik
Seafood Risotto
Long the most famous restaurant (Riot)
in the city, Atlas Club Nautika has You will find this dish featured
on menus up and down the
many would-be detractors, but it coast a good-value meal.
usually hits the spot for most
diners. The menu nods towards
the Adriatic, but there are also
Dalmatian Ham (Prut)
This air-dried smoked ham,
meat and vegetarian dishes. Vying often served as a starter with
Pag cheese, is arguably better
for centre stage, though, are the than the Italian equivalent.
wonderful views, with the old
town to one side and Lovrijenac
Fortress to the other (see p69).
Pag Lamb (Janjetina)
Flavoursome lamb from
the parched isle where the
lambs feed on fresh herbs.
Lobster (Jastog)
Diners can often select
their own lobster from the
tank, usually served simply.
Grilled
na aru)
Squid (Lignje
Fresh squid grilled with garlic

and garnished with squeezed
lemon makes a delicious
starter or main course.
Restaurant Fontana, Trogir
Restaurant Fontana, Trogir Istrian Truffles (Tartufi)

Unlike many restaurants on From Croatian Istria, both
white and black varieties are
often a match for French and
the Dalmatian coast, the Fontana
Italian truffles.
the best restaurant in Trogir
stays open year round. In winter
it retreats to a cosy interior; in Scampi (Buzara)
This rich and flavoursome
the warmer months it explodes seafood dish is a Dalmatian
out onto the waterfront Riva. speciality. Scampi are gently
simmered in a sauce of
The speciality, unsurprisingly, tomato, onion and herbs.
is seafood (see p87).
For more restaurant listings See pp68, 69, 79, 87, 97 49

Left Paki sir (Pag cheese) and Prut (smoked ham) Right Lace
Things to Buy
Ties
Its original name cravat Jewellery
Dalmatia is particularly well
may be French, but the tie comes known for its red Adriatic corals
from Croatia. During the Thirty and its jewellery. The quality and
Years War, the French cavalry price of goods depend on the
noticed that Croatians wore their vendor. Upmarket boutiques in

scarves in a distinctive manner Hvar Town are reliable outlets for
which they termed la cravate contemporary coral pieces.
(Croatian-style). Quality ties can Jewellers in Zadar and Dubrovnik
be bought in Croata shops in are good for silver and gold.
Dubrovnik, Split and Cavtat.
Wine
Quality Dalmatian wines Food
Paki sir (Pag cheese),
prut (air-dried smoked ham),
include the reds Plavac, Dinga olive oil and honey are all first-
and Postup from the Peljeac rate food products. If you can,
Peninsula. Grk and Poip buy direct from locals (look
(white) are grown in Korula. out for the handmade signs
Vineyards in the Konavle displayed on the roadside),
region produce delectable or from fresh-food markets.
Dubrovaka Malvazija (also Failing that, you will also find
white). Outside of Dalmatia, these items in supermarkets
lahtina from the island of and tourist shops.
Krk, Graevina from Slavonia,
Dolls in Traditional
and Istrian Malvazija again
all white are also excellent.
Costume
Its best to buy direct from Dolls in traditional dress
the vineyard otherwise, Dinga wine are ubiquitous throughout
from a Vinoteka (wine shop). Dalmatia. There are dozens
of varieties, from cheap and
Croatian Spirits
Dalmatians are fond of grape-,
cheerful souvenirs to figures
wearing handmade clothes.
herb- and plum-based brandies Ceramic dolls offer a more
like grappa, travarica and ljivovica, contemporary take on this
which are drunk as aperitifs or customary memento.
digestifs. Grappa is an Italian spirit
Lace
made from the leftovers of the
winemaking process. Travarica
Lace products come in many
and ljivovica are both types of guises, including tablecloths,
rakija, powerful spirits made by handkerchiefs and clothing, and
distillation of fermented fruits. can be bought in boutiques
Nicely packaged bottles crammed throughout Dalmatia. If you are
with herbs make good gifts. looking for something really
50 For more on Dalmatian wine See p106

authentic, buy intricate hand- Top 10 Tips for
woven lace made by Pag
islanders, or pick up a piece
Buying Art and Crafts
crafted by nuns in Hvar Town
using the leaves of agave plants,
Artur Galerija,
Dubrovnik
Come here for images of the

which grow on the island. Old City. Luarica 1 Map J5
Lavender
This fragrant plant has been
Dubrovaka
Dubrovnik
Kua,
A quality gift shop and art

cultivated on Hvar for the past
gallery (see p63).
75 years, and the myriad oils and
balms that are produced provide
an important source of revenue Gallery Stradun,
Dubrovnik
for the islanders. In late spring If youre looking for depictions
and early summer, the scent of of Dubrovnik and Dalmatia,
this is the place. Discounts for
lavender pervades the island, cash. Placa bb Map H5
and a host of products are sold
at stalls around Hvar Town.
Sebastian, Dubrovnik
This newly refurbished
gallery with a history dating
back over 30 years sells
quality work by famous artists
from former Yugoslavia.
Svetog Dominika 5 Map K5
Arsia, Split
Arsia sells decent Metrovi
replicas, and paintings of Split.
Dioklecijanova 3 Map Q2
Lavender stall, Hvar
Clothing and Accessories

Dioklecijanova, Split
This street leading south
Dalmatians take great pride from the Golden Gate is home
to a handful of good craft
in their appearance, and boutique studios. Map Q2
shops in the historic cores of
Dubrovnik, Split and Zadar, are
great places to purchase stylish
Diocletians
Split
Palace,
The souvenir stalls in the

clothes and leather goods Main Hall stock a wide
especially shoes and handbags. selection of art (see p22).
Handicrafts
Croatia has a long tradition
Gallery Anima, Zadar
Paintings of Dalmatia by
local artist Zoran Debeli.
of ceramics and wooden handi- Plemia Borelli 16 Map B3
crafts. Nautically-themed goods
are common in Split, as well as
replicas of Metrovi sculptures.
Gallery More, Zadar
Located on the old towns
In Dubrovnik, you can pick up main street, with a good range
of typical Croatian gifts.
dolls, wooden toys and ceramic iroka bb Map B3
hearts the latter harking back
to the times when the families
of seafaring men would donate
Gallery Pia, Zadar
Ceramics, textiles and
gold or silver hearts to churches, paintings by locally and
nationally known artists.
as votive offerings to ensure the Jadro 9 Map B3
safe return of their loved ones.

without number.
Left Stradun, Onoforios fountain Right Sea kayaking
Childrens Dalmatia
Beaches
Sandy beaches may be few
sunscreen and carry plenty of
water. Cafs located along the
and far between, but Dalmatia way to high vantage points, at
boasts long stretches the top of towers, and in the
of clean, sun-kissed fortifications themselves,
pebble and shingle help ease the strain for

beach. Even at the shorter legs.
height of summer, you
will find whole swathes
of shoreline deserted. Krka National Park
This fun-filled
On busy public beaches, natural wonderland
snack bars, sun should keep everyone
loungers and parasols happy, with lush
are common some vegetation, thundering
even have changing Wooden walkways, waterfalls, imposing
rooms and showers. Krka National Park monuments and a maze
of wooden walkways
Public Swimming Pools

They may not be plush, but
not to mention boat rides and
the chance to take a dip in the
Dalmatia has some of the best- water (see pp212).
located public swimming pools
in Europe, allowing parents to
enjoy views of places such as Paklenica National Park
Deliberately manicured for
Korula Old Town, the island of tourists, the lower levels of
olta (from Split) and the bay at Velika Paklenica have ascents
ibenik while the kids take a dip. with solid paths that are quite
manageable for older children.
Fortifications and Towers

Dalmatia overflows with
Information boards document
the parks wildlife and fauna.
towers and fortifications offering The calm waters that hug the
stunning views. Lather on the beaches of the nearby resort
at Starigrad are also perfect for
kids (see p73).
Ferries
The whole length of the
Dalmatian coast is awash with
catamarans and ferries of all
shapes and sizes, transforming a
sightseeing visit to an island into
a sea-borne adventure. Its best
to leave the car behind at the
Ferry, Split to Vis height of the summer.
52 For more on Dalmatias beaches See pp423

Resort Hotels
The swimming pools, tennis
Top 10 Childrens
Attractions
courts and other leisure facilities
at resort-style hotels will keep
kids happily occupied for hours.
City Beach, Dubrovnik
The banana boat rides are
always a popular distraction in

Full- and half-board options are summer (see p42).
worth considering, particularly
with younger children.
Croatias Dead Sea
Children are delighted to
find they can float with ease
in the salt waters of the Mrtvo
More, a sea-fed lake on the
island of Lokrum (see p94).
Bievo Grotto
On a sunny day, nothing
is more spectacular (see p84).
Beach Activities, Hvar

The beach just outside the
Amphora Hotel is a good place
Swimming pool, Dubrovnik Palace Hotel to hire snorkelling equipment
and mountain bikes (see p84).
Cycling
Once you get away from the Spanish Fort,
Hvar Town
busy highways and tourist resorts, This 16th-century fort is a firm
Dalmatia is replete with cycling favourite with all ages, and the
young ones can burn off some
opportunities. Many hotels and energy on the steep ascent.
campsites rent bikes to guests;
some provide them free of charge.
Split Football Stadium
Treat them to some thrilling
soccer action at the home of
Adventure Sports
If your older children crave
premier-division Hajduk Split.
www.hnkhajduk.hr
a little excitement, adrenaline-
pumping white-water rafting, sea
kayaking, river canoeing, sailing,
Roman Ruins, Salona
Stimulate their imaginations
mountain biking and organized with a visit to this fascinating
archeological site (see p81).
hiking trips can be arranged at
local travel agencies. Ana Fort, ibenik
St
The kids can maraud
around this ancient fortifi-
International
Festival
Childrens
cation while you take in the
stunning views (see p73).
For a fortnight every year (June
to July), stages and public
squares in the historic city of Zvonimira, Zadar
The coastline stretching
ibenik (see p73) host lively south-east from the old town
childrens theatre, music and has pleasant wooded parks,
and beaches with bathing
puppet shows. A tradition that areas and diving boards.
spans almost half a century, the
International Childrens Festival
appeals to younger children,
Puppet Theatre, Zadar
If wet weather spoils your
Croatian and non-Croatian alike. plans, check out this fun venue.
Obala Kralja Tomislava bb
Theres also an art programme, 023 319 181
including childrens workshops.
For more on outdoor activities See pp445 53

Left Split Summer Festival Right Dubrovnik Festival
Festivals & Events

Feast of St Blaise,
Dubrovnik Zadar Summer Theatre
This lively festival of theatre,
On 3 February, the citizens of music and dance was founded in
Dubrovnik commemorate the 1995. Most of the productions
life and work of their patron take place in a variety of outdoor
saint and protector (see p38). The locations around the old city.
celebrations begin at 10am, with JulAug
a mass held outside the cathedral.
At 11:30am, reliquaries of St
Blaise are carried in a procession Musical Evenings in St
Donats Church, Zadar
around the city. Every summer, St Donats Church
(see p31) and other ecclesiastical
venues in Zadar come alive with
a host of Baroque, Renaissance,
medieval and chamber concerts.
www.kuz.hr mid-Julymid-Aug
Dubrovnik Festival
For over 50 years, stages in
historic venues, churches and
Feast of Saint Blaise celebrations the open air have filled the old
city with theatre, dance and
Carnival
Spectacular Shrove Tuesday
music from around the globe.
Performances of Shakespeare in
carnival processions take place in the Lovrijenac Fortress sell out
Split, where masked locals burn quickly. www.dubrovnik-festival.hr
an effigy of Krnjo, a mythical mid-Jullate Aug
figure representing everything
bad that has happened to the
city over the previous year. On
the same day, in a celebration
known as Poklad, the inhabitants
of Lastovo commemorate a 15th-
century victory of the islanders
over pirates; a puppet is chased,
captured and burned at the stake.
Dubrovnik International
Film Festival
This relatively new five-day event
has screenings of a wide range
of Croatian and international
films. www.dubrovnikiff.org May Musical evenings in St Donats Church
54
Split Summer Festival
Opera, ballet, classical music,
Top 10 Venues
pop, and a diverse array of Martin Dri Theatre,
Dubrovnik
theatrical performances heighten Ornate venue staging a wide-
the energy in Dalmatias largest ranging theatrical programme.

city. Open-air productions held in Pred Dvorom 3 020 321 088
Diocletians Palace (see pp223)
are the highlight, with the staging Rectors
Dubrovnik
Palace,
of Verdis Aida in the Peristyle an Classical concerts are staged
enduring favourite. www.splitsko- in the open-air atrium from
ljeto.hr mid-Jullate Aug April to October (see pp1415).
Sponza Palace,
Dubrovnik
Atmospheric venue in the
inner courtyard of this 16th-
century palace (see p11).
Church of St Saviour,
Dubrovnik
This old-town church hosts
classical concerts every
Traditional swords and shield of the Moreka Monday at 9pm (see p11).
Moreka, Korula Town Town Theatre, Hvar

One of Europes earliest
This traditional 15th-century theatres. Trg Svetog Stjepana
sword-dance, staged in Korula 021 741 009
Town on the Feast of St Theodore
(29 July), portrays good and evil
kings fighting for the affections
Open Air Theatre,
Korula Town
This compact circular arena
of a beautiful maiden. Though the overlooks the harbour and the
swords are wooden, the battles Peljeac Peninsula.
are spectacularly choreographed.
Summer Festivals
Fort of St Nicholas,
ibenik
In July and August, summer In season, a flotilla of boats
ferries concertgoers to the
festivals lasting anything from fort from ibenik (see p76).
two weeks to two months fill
the cultural calendars of many
towns throughout Dalmatia, with
ibenik Theatre
This grand venue was
modelled on Venices Teatro
dance, theatre and music gracing Fenice. Kralja Zvonimira 1
outdoor and indoor stages. Some 022 213 145
of the liveliest festivals are held
in Cavtat, Hvar Town, Makarska,
Ston, Trogir and Pag.
Croatian National
Theatre, Split
Impressive theatre hosting
opera, ballet and classical
Split Jazz Festival

This week-long festival runs
music performances. Trg
Gaje Bulata 021 515 999
during the citys Summer Festival,
bringing international jazz Croatian National
Theatre, Zadar
performers of the calibre of This opulent venue hosts
Diana Krall, Charlie Haden and theatre, opera and ballet.
Michael Brecker to the Dalmatian iroka 8 022 314 552
capital. Aug
You can see Moreka dancing throughout the main summer 55

season in Korula Town.
around
dubrovnik
& the
dalmatian
Dubrovnik & The DalmaTian CoasT

coast
Dubrovnik
5869
Northern Dalmatia
7279
Central Dalmatia
8087
Southern Dalmatia
9097
Around Dubrovnik
Left Old Harbour Right Recital at the Rectors Palace
Dubrovnik
B yron Called it the Pearl of the adriatiC. George Bernard Shaw

proclaimed that Those who seek paradise on earth should seek it in
Dubrovnik. Now fully recovered from the bitter Serbian and Montenegrin
siege of 199091, this remarkable former city-state has in its historic centre
perhaps the most attractive and well preserved Baroque core of any European
city, its swathe of churches, palaces and old stone houses neatly contained
within the sturdy walls that have protected its famed libertas (freedom) for
centuries. Much of what you see today is the result of painstaking reconstruction
after the earthquake of 1667; now, all new building work is strictly controlled,
even down to the shade of green to be used on the
shutters of the citys main thoroughfare, the Stradun.
Sights
Stradun and City Walls Old Harbour

Dominican Monastery War Photo Limited
Cathedral Museum of Modern Art
Church of St Blaise Sponza Palace
Rectors Palace Lovrijenac Fortress
City walls
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58 Preceding pages Hvar Town, island of Hvar

Stradun and City Walls
There are few better ways Cathedral
Erected after the 1667
to begin your exploration of earthquake, todays Baroque
Dubrovnik than a stroll down cathedral (see p39), crafted by
the Stradun or a walk around Italian architects, replaced an
Around Dubrovnik
the city walls (see pp811). earlier Romanesque structure.
The cathedral houses a treasury
Dominican Monastery
The Dominicans were
with a famous collection of more
than 200 reliquaries, including a
allowed into the city in the 14th 12th-century Byzantine case
century, on condition that they containing the skull of the much
helped to protect its southern venerated St Blaise, and
entrance. The monastery casks containing his hands
buildings that you and one of his legs. It
see today also displays what
the large church, is claimed to be a
cloisters and fragment of the
museum were cross on which Jesus
constructed from Skull of St Blaize was crucified, and a
scratch after the copy of Raphaels
original complex was more or Virgin of the Chair reputed to
less flattened by the earthquake have been made by the grand
of 1667. Highlights include the master himself. Kneza Damjana
Gothic cloisters, 14th-century Jude 1 Map J6 020 323 459 8am
Italian painter Paolo Venezianos 5:30pm, 57pm daily Free
Crucifixion (in the church), and
Church of St Blaise
the museum, which houses an
11th-century Bible and a painting The original 14th-century
by Titian, St Blaise, St Mary church survived the earthquake
Magdalene, the Angel Tobias and largely intact, only to burn down
the Purchaser the man on his in a fire in 1706. Work started on
knees in the latter is a member of the present incarnation later the
the then powerful Pui family, same year, to plans by Italian
who funded the work. Svetog architect Marino Grapelli, who
Dominika 4 Map K4 020 321 423 based the design of the interior
9am6pm daily Adm charge on that of a Baroque church in his
home town. Punctuating the
ornate faade are four pillars
watched over by an array of
saints. The stained-glass windows
are another striking feature a
late-20th-century addition of a
kind quite unusual in this part
of Europe (see pp11, 38).
Rectors Palace
The position of Rector of
Dubrovnik was the ultimate job-
share; each incumbent held it
for just one month. For that brief
period, the Rectors Palace was
Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano his home (see pp1415).
59
Fall of the Republic exhibit takes an impartial and
Dubrovnik was always proud of thought-provoking look at the
its libertas, but on 26 May 1806 it conflicts that have battered the
risked it in return for French region since 1991. At the helm
assistance in lifting a siege by is New Zealander Wade Goddard,
Around Dubrovnik
Russian and Montenegrin forces. who has brought together two

The French outstayed their floors of striking images that dont
welcome, and on 31 January hold back on shocking detail, but
1808 the Republic of Ragusa was
avoid the temptation to label and
officially dissolved as Dubrovnik
became part of Napoleons judge. It is perhaps the ultimate
Illyrian Provinces. tribute to the gallery that while
many Croats feel it is too pro-
Serb, many Serbs feel it is too
Old Harbour
Dubrovniks first harbour
pro-Croat. The gallery itself is
a well thought-out space that
stood to the west side of the allows the photographs to speak
city, between the Pile Gate and for themselves. Antuninska 6
the Lovrijenac Fortress, but it Map H4 020 322 166 www.warphoto
failed to offer sufficient shelter, ltd.com MayOct: 9am9pm daily;
and in any case soon became NovDec, MarApr: 9am4pm MonSat
too small as the city grew. The (closed Jan, Feb) Adm charge
Old Harbour, on the east side of
the Old City, is a much grander
affair, with the Revelin and St
Johns forts guarding either flank.
Amenities are limited here, but
there are one or two places to
eat, and take in the busy
summer scene; theres always a
flurry of small fishing boats and
tourist craft enjoying the
harbours protection, and there Olive Trees by Ignat Job, Museum of
are good views down the coast Modern Art
towards Cavtat. Map K5
War Photo Limited

Not many tourists make it to Museum of Modern Art
This avant-garde gallery
is housed in an enormous
this controversial new museum, Renaissance-style villa set in a
mistakenly believing that they prime spot in affluent Ploe. The
are going to be presented with light and airy multi-floored venue
a biased depiction of the war in makes the perfect setting for an
Croatia. In reality, the main eclectic array of permanent and
temporary exhibitions. Look out
for sculptures by Ivan Metrovi
(18831962) (see p40), portraits
by the Cavtat-born Vlaho Bukovac
(18551922), and the work of
Frano Krini (18971982), another
renowned Croatian sculptor, from
Lumbarda in Korula. Frana Supila
23 Map M5 020 426 590 9am9pm
War Photo Limited daily Adm charge
60
A Day in Dubrovnik
Morning
If youre an early riser,
climb the city walls when
Around Dubrovnik
they open (9am) and you
may have them largely to
yourself. Make a leisurely
circuit taking in their sights
(see pp89) and watching
the city as it gradually
comes to life below. Stop
at St Johns Fort to visit
the Maritime Museum
Sponza Palace (see p62) and Aquarium
(see p62). Descend to the
Sponza Palace
Architect Pasjij Milievis
Stradun, and if you didnt
take breakfast at your
hotel, enjoy a coffee and
masterpiece (150622) was one a pastry at the Festival
of the few buildings to survive Caf (see p65) its a
the 1667 earthquake. Its exterior great vantage-point from
presents the onlooker with a which to observe the
striking combination of Gothic frenetic street-life of the
citys main artery.
and Renaissance architecture.
Among the highlights are the Continue strolling gently
flamboyant Gothic windows on down the Stradun, just
the first floor, the Gothic cloisters, absorbing the atmosphere
and the expert stone carving rather than delving into its
various attractions. Enjoy
of brothers Nikola and Josip
an early seafood lunch at
Andriji, including a lofty St Blaise noon in Kamenice (see
who looks down on the Stradun p68) in Gundulieva
from the second floor (see p11). Poljana (see p62), and
absorb the colourful sights
and sounds of the market
Lovrijenac Fortress
This sweeping fortress rises
in the same square.
steeply out of the Adriatic to the Afternoon

west of the city walls. Historically After lunch, head across
it served both as a place to store to the Rectors Palace
the citys gold and as a military (see pp1415) and take
hub and battery where the city a self-guided audio tour.
Continue around to the
could be brought to heel in the start of the Stradun at
event of a rebellion. The citys oft- Lua Square. From here
quoted slogan guards the you can choose which of
entrance: Freedom must not be this pedestrianized
sold for all the gold in the world. thoroughfares attractions
to explore (see pp1011)
The fortress serves as one of the as you travel its length
most atmospheric venues during towards the Pile Gate and
the Dubrovnik Festival (see p54), the welcoming arms of the
with Shakespeare soliloquies Kavana Dubravka caf (see
echoing across the old ramparts. p65), or perhaps an early
dinner at Atlas Club
Its a gruelling climb on a hot day, Nautika (see p69), with
but well worth the effort. Map views over one of Europes
M5 020 324 641 9am6pm daily Adm most stunning cities.
charge (no disabled access)
Take in a concert at the Sponza Palace to see it at its most 61

atmospheric.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Church of St Ignatius Right Gunduli Square
Best of the Rest

Convent of St Claire
The gleaming orange roof Gundulieva Poljana
(Gunduli Square)
tiles of this former monastery This beautiful square is home
beckon when seen from the Old to a statue of Ivan Gunduli, the
City walls (see pp89). Today it 17th-century poet whose Osman
is home to a casual restaurant, recalls a great Slavic victory over
Jadran (see p68), set within the Turks. Theres a lively morning
ornate cloisters. Poljana Paksa market here. Map J5
Milieva 1 Map H5
Orthodox Church Museum

Two doors down from the Aquarium
The Aquarium is a good rainy-
day choice, with its poisonous
recently refurbished Serbian Adriatic moray eels, stingrays,
Orthodox Church is this colourful sea horses and some species
Icon Museum with works dating also served up in local eateries.
from the 15th to 19th centuries Damjana Jude 12 Map K6 020 323
Od Pua 8 Map J5 020 323 283 978 Open summer: 9am9pm daily;
Open 9am2pm MonSat Adm charge winter: 9am1pm MonSat Adm charge
Church of St Ignatius
Up a grand sweep of stairs, Church of St Luke
Renovations spanning nine
modelled on Romes Spanish centuries brought this tiny single-
Steps, is this voluminous 18th- nave church to its present form
century Jesuit Church. Its dim in 1787. Look out for the saints
interior houses fine examples of carved above the main door and
trompe loeil. Poljana R Bokovia the small gallery that is now
Map J6 Open 8am7pm daily inside. Svetog Dominika bb Map K4
020 321 603 Opening hours vary
Pustijerna
Wander the streets of this Rupe Ethnographic
area to the south of the Stradun Museum
in search of traces of the Old This vast space was built to store
City walls. Medieval houses, many grain, in holes bored into the rock,
in ruins, huddle along impossibly in case of siege. The museum
narrow lanes, giving an insight into looks at daily life over the years.
pre-1667 Dubrovnik. Map K6 Od Rupa 3 Map H5 020 323 013
Open 9am6pm daily Adm charge
Synagogue
This little synagogue, up the Marin Drii House
hill from the Stradun, is said to be This museum honours a
Europes second oldest, after one celebrated 16th-century Dubrovnik
in Prague. udioska 5 Map J5 playwright. iroka 7 Map H5
Open 10am3pm MonSat Adm charge Open 9am2pm daily Free
62
Around Dubrovnik
Left Croata Middle Vinoteka Right Dubrovnik House
Places to Shop
Art Silver Shop
Stylish bracelets and chunky Tilda
A tiny souvenir shop tucked
rings are among the handmade between the Stradun and Prijeko,
jewellery on sale in this shop. Tilda stocks a range of traditional
Most are crafted from silver clothes and cloth adorned with
and semi-precious stones. intricate hand-embroidery.
Naljekovieva 6 Map H5 Zlatarska 1 Map J5
Dubrovaka Kua
(Dubrovnik House) LaForScarpa
lovers of handbags and
This is a charming gallery-cum- shoes, the handmade leather
gift shop selling quality Croatian goods in this small boutique are
wines, Istrian truffles, traditional hard to resist. Reasonably priced
souvenirs and original paintings. belts, wallets and key rings are
Svetog Dominika bb Map K4 also on sale. Od Pua 8 Map J5
Vinoteka
This great little wine shop Omega 3
Omega 3s bright, modern
in the heart of the Old City sells costume jewellery makes a great
Croatian and Slovenian wines, gift for teenagers, while its chic,
alongside olive oil and truffles. but affordable, Italian accessories
Despite its misleading address, complement a more refined
it is entered from the Stradun. wardrobe. Za Rokom bb Map G5
Od Sigurate 2 Map H4
Croata
Where better to buy a tie Vinoteka
This large wine shop has
a great range of good quality
than the country in which they wines from all over Croatia and
were created? All Croata ties are a decent selection of European
handmade from silk. Look out vintages too. Attractively bottled
also for the branches in Cavtat spirits and oils are also available.
and Split. Pred Dvorom 2 Map J5 Those searching for the hallowed
Istrian truffle can pick up both
Algoritam
This centrally located
pastes and oils here. The only
downside is the high mark-up.
bookstore is a great place in Od Pua 9 Map J5
which to browse through a wide
range of fiction and non-fiction
foreign language titles. It is also Jagerstar
Designer brands such as
a useful shop for visitors wanting Camper, Kickers and Diesel are
to pick up maps, phrase books on sale at this spacious shoe
and Croatian dictionaries. shop. Friendly staff will find your
Placa 8 Map J5 size for you. Od Pua 7 Map J5

without number.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Troubadur Hard Jazz Caf Right Labirint
Nightlife
Hemingway Bar
Wicker lounge chairs decked Esperanza
This popular nightclub near
with comfortable cushions offer the bus station caters to a crowd
views of the Rectors Palace and that is into disco and techno.
cathedral, ensuring Hemingways Concerts are also staged here
popularity. Buzzing at night, it is from time to time. Put Republike
shaded and quiet by day. Pred 30 Map L4
Dvorom bb Map J5
Troubadur Hard Jazz Caf

Tables at this vibrant bolt Carpe Diem
Tucked inside the Old City
Walls (see pp89) east of the old
hole pour out onto the square harbour, this lively bar pumps out
behind the cathedral. Regular live the latest tunes. On-street seating
music performances keep them is popular, while the interior is
full. Dont worry if you cant get modern and comfortable. After
a seat as the music can be heard a hectic night out, why not return
from the neighbouring bars too. for a more sedate breakfast.
Bunieva Poljana Map J6 Kneza Damjana Jude 4 Map K6
Latino Club Fuego

Live music, DJs playing Revelin Club
Saturday nights bring a bit
Latino to R & B, a chill-out room of everything at this caf-bars
and a late-evening happy hour weekly disco, with house music,
(from 10pm to 11pm), not to pop, R & B, rock and Latino
mention a great location just grooves all part of the DJs set.
outside the Pile Gate, all make Svetog Dominika bb Map K4
Fuego popular. Brsalje 8 Map G4
Exodus
If youre into dance music Lazereti
An old quarantine house and
artisans workshops now form a
and youre staying on the Babin venue for traditional folk perfor-
Kuk or Lapad peninsulas, then mances. Keep your eyes peeled
Exodus is for you. Babin Kuk Hotel for posters, or check with the
Complex, Iva Dulia 39 Map L4 tourist office to find out whats
on. Frana Supila 8 Map M5
Labirint
In high season this enter-
Klub Orlando
tainment complex overlooking This venue, 10 minutes walk
the old harbour has a small, and north of the Old City, attracts
fairly expensive, late-night disco. a young, grungy crowd with its
It is the location and the outdoor live music, cult cinema and
terrace that you are paying for. alternative discos. Branitelja
Svetog Dominika 2 Map K5 Dubrovnika 41 Map M4
64 The majority of nightclubs in Dubrovnik close by 1am; exceptions

include Latino Club Fuego, Labirint, Esperanza and Exodus.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Bua Right Cervantes
Cafs and Bars

Festival Caf
At the western end of the Sunset Bar Hotel
Cocktails and stunning
Stradun, this caf has a mellow sunset vistas over the Elafiti
and sophisticated air. Directors Islands and Mljet are to be had
chairs on the pavement are great from the Hotel Dubrovnik
for sitting back in and watching Palaces public bar. They more
the world go by. If youve been than reward the 15-minute bus
hankering after single-malt journey from Brasilje. Masarykov
Scotch whisky, look no further. Put 20 Map K4
Placa 12 Map H5
Bua
On a sunny day follow the Irish Pub
This buzzing bar, with live
football and a lengthy happy hour
signs from Gundulieva Poljana (from 5pm to 8pm), is popular
(see p62) to this great open-air with English-speakers. Od Polaa
bar. Located on the rocks outside 5 Map J5
the southern Old City Walls, it
has great views over the sea to
Lokrum. It serves cold drinks Gaffe
New to Dubrovniks bar
only. off Od Margarite Map J6 scene, Gaffe is a more refined
version of the Irish theme bar
Gradska Kavana
Revamped in 2005, this
across the street, with a green
and dark-wood decor. The staff
city caf has a terrace that is a are friendly and the atmosphere
great place for a spot of people relaxed. Od Polaa 5 Map J5
watching. Pred Dvorom bb Map J5
Kavana Dubravka
The views from this low-key Netcafe
This contemporary caf-bar,
with modern flat screens and
cafs terrace are spectacular.It high-speed Internet access, is a
is located between the Pile Gate pleasant choice for a drink, even
and the Lovrijenac Fortress. if you dont want to go online. The
Brsalje bb Map G4 staff are unfailingly welcoming
and helpful. Prijeko 21 Map J4
Cervantes
Sandwiched between the
Raonda
Stradun and Prijeko, this cave-like Sip delectable Croatian
bar serves the more upmarket and international vi ntages in the
wines, like Dinga, by the glass, PuiPalaces elegant wine bar.
something that is quite unusual Be sure to bring some friends,
in Croatia. Popular with locals and plenty of cash or a credit
and welcoming to visitors, it also card, as the wines are only sold
offers tapas. Dropeva 5 Map J5 by the bottle. Od Pua 1 Map J5

without number.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Lokrum Right City Beach
Beyond the City Walls

Gru Harbour
This increasingly busy Lapad Peninsula
This hotel-laden peninsula
harbour, to the north of the retains its beauty through its
Old City, bustles with ferries verdant woodland and has
and cruise ships. It also boasts a string of good walking routes.
a cluster of old, Venetian-style The highest peak, Velika Petka,
palaces. The fresh fruit and rises to 192 m (629 ft). Map K4
vegetable market held every
weekday morning is a great
place to get a feel for the real Babin Kuk Peninsula
Sharing the same rump
Dubrovnik. Map L4 of land as Lapad, Babin Kuk is
another tree-cloaked peninsula
Mount Sr
The return of the cable car
that remains a pleasant area for
walking, despite a recent flurry of
that used to ascend Mount Sr hotel building. Map K4
has been mooted. For now, it is
an arduous hike or a drive to the
top, to take in the unmatched Copacabana Beach
This popular beach offers
view of the Old City. Map M4 a range of water sports, from
windsurfing and water-skiing to
Lokrum
Temptingly positioned just
banana-boat rides. You can rent a
kayak and explore Babin Kuk from
offshore is an unspoilt island that the sea. There are also water-
is a world away from the city, with slides for the kids and beach
quiet coves, an old monastery bars for the grown ups. Map L4
and a crumbling fort. Boats leave
from the old port. Map M5
Uvala Bay
The bay that separates
City Beach
With great views of the Old
Lapad and Babin Kuk boasts its
own beach, which was given a
City, this beach has recently been make over in the spring of 2005.
revamped, with imported sand It is a good spot to while away a
and a new bar, restaurant and sweltering afternoon. Map L4
sun-deck complex. Improvements
come at a price, so bring kuna for
sun-bed and towel hire. Map K5 Votive Church
The oldest church outside
the Old City is dedicated to
Tuman Bridge
This graceful bridge provides Dubrovniks patron saint,
St Blaise. A church has stood
a suitably grand northern entrance on the site since at least the
to the city. It also serves as 13th century, though todays
an impressive memorial to the incarnation dates from the 19th
countrys first president. Map K2 century. Gorica Hill, Gru Map L4
66 Atlas Travel Agency (www.atlas-croatia.com) organizes excursions

to Montenegro, Mostar and Meugorje.
Around Dubrovnik
Tour boat on excursion from Dubrovnik
Excursions from Dubrovnik

Boat Trips
A myriad of tour boats ease Kotor
Dip south across the border
their way out into the Adriatic into Montenegro and your reward
from the old harbour and Gru, is the nearest the Adriatic has
setting course for nearby islands. to a fjord the stunning Kotor
Short excursions, half-day and day Bay and the charming historical
trips are available. Map K5, L4 town of Kotor itself. Map M3
Scenic Flights
Stunning views unfold on Sveti Stefan
Further on into Montenegro,
a scenic flight out over the Old this hotel is set on its own island
City and Lokrum, with options to and was once a favourite of the
head north towards Korula (see international jet set. Todays day-
p95) and the Peljeac Peninsula. trippers can walk the island and
Dubrovnik airport Map L3 020 478 dine in the restaurant. off map
674 www.aer-marina.com
Konavle Safaris
South of Dubrovnik, this Trebinje
For a taste of a true Bosnian
market, nip over the border on
unspoilt region offers the chance a Saturday and enjoy the hectic
to get away from it all on an eco fun it offers. The centuries peel
tour. Some operators offer hotel away in the attractive old town,
pick up; check with the tourist which boasts mosques and an
information office for further Orthodox church. Map L2
details. Map L3
Mlini
This pleasant small fishing Mostar
The old bridge that gave the
city its name has been expertly
village 11 km (7 miles) south of restored following its notorious
Dubrovnik has a palm-lined water- destruction during the 1990s
front and traditional stone houses. conflict. It is the top sight in this
Numerous streams, which once Bosnian city, which lies close to
fed its mills, and a decent beach the Croatian border. off map
add to Mlinis appeal. Map L3
Srebreno
Neighbouring Mlini, Srebreno Meugorje
Even during the war, pilgrims
flocked into Bosnia to the spot
has a long stretch of beach. It is where the Virgin Mary is said to
a low-key resort with two camp- have appeared to local teenagers
sites and walking and hiking in 1981. Facilities catering to
opportunities in the mountains, hoards of visitors have tainted
which protect the village from things a bit, but this is still a
northerly winds. Map L2 remarkable place to visit. Map J1
Mlini and Srebreno are accessible by local bus from Dubrovnik. 67

Always carry your passport when crossing international borders.
Around Dubrovnik
Left Mea Culpa Middle Kamenica Right Jadran
Cheap Eats
Mea Culpa
Gargantuan Italian-style pizzas Poklisar
Decent pizzas and fish main
and reasonable prices make Mea courses are on offer here, but
Culpa a favourite with locals and the real reasons for paying a visit
visitors alike. Dine in the cosy to Poklisar are the outdoor tables
interior or at a street-side table. overlooking the old port and the
Za Rokom 3 Map H5 020 323 430 K late opening hours. Ribarnica 1
Map K5 020 322 177 KK
Sesame
Just east of the Pile Gate, this Arka
roof-top terrace is a good place to One of Dubrovniks newest
escape the summer crowds. The restaurants, Arka boasts a varied
food consists of well-prepared menu including all the usual
Dalmatian dishes. Dante Alighieria Dalmatian fish and meat dishes.
bb Map M4 020 412 910 KKK Breaking with convention, this
informal eatery also has good
Kamenice
Gorge on huge plates of fried
dedicated vegetarian options.
Gundulieva Poljana Map J5 KKK
squid, fresh mussels, seafood
risotto and grilled scampi, washed
down with a crisp house white. Fish Sandwich Bar
A tasty selection of fish
Its great value and the outdoor rolls on home-made bread and
setting is wonderful. Gundulieva portions of fried squid can either
Poljana 8 Map J5 020 323 682 K be taken away or enjoyed perched
on the stools outside. iroka bb
Jadran
Enjoy fresh Adriatic seafood
Map H5 K
and simple grilled meats in the

attractive courtyard of St Claires Spaghetteria Toni
Located just off the Stradun,
Convent (see p62). Just a stones this great little trattoria has
throw from the Stradun, the friendly staff and serves fresh
setting is unexpectedly tranquil. pasta just like mamma would
Poljana Paksa Milieva 1 Map H5 make it. Nikole Boidarevia 14
020 323 405 KKK Map H5 020 323 134 K
Lokanda Peskarija
Lokanda Peskarija serves a kola
This tiny outlet sells
simple menu of mussels, squid, delicious sandwiches created
seafood risotto and scampi. Out- using bread freshly made on the
door benches overlook the old premises and offers unbeatable
harbour, while the rustic interior is value. The tasty fillings include
atmospheric. Na Ponti bb Map K5 cheese, prut and grilled vege-
020 324 750 Closed 25 Dec1 Feb K tables. Antuninska 1 Map H5 K
68 In Croatian addresses, bb is short for bez broj, meaning

without number.
Price Categories
For a three-course K under 100kn
meal for one with half KK 100150kn
a bottle of wine (or KKK 150200kn
equivalent meal), taxes KKKK 200250kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 250kn
Around Dubrovnik
Atlas Club Nautika
Top-end Restaurants
Atlas Club Nautika
Share an Adriatic fish platter Proto
Proto shines out above most
or Chateaubriand with a loved of the Old City eateries, with a
one as the Adriatic laps at the menu that focuses on seafood,
rocks below (see also p49). but which caters for meat-eaters
Brsalje 3 Map G4 020 442 526 too. The terrace on the first floor
KKKKK is the place to be in summer.
iroka 1 Map H5 020 323 234 KKKK
Defne
A roof terrace overlooking Domino
the Stradun is home to the With a huge hoarding pin-
summer restaurant of the Pui pointing its location, Domino is
Palace. The innovative menu hard to miss. Dine on succulent
combines Turkish and Croatian steaks on an attractive terrace
cuisine. Od Pua 1 Map J5 020 in atmospheric Pustijerna. Od
326 200 Closed OctMay KKKKK Domina 3 Map H5 020 323 103
KKKKK
Victoria Restaurant
The Hotel Argentinas
Labirint
summer restaurant is set on an Savour fish, meat and pasta
exclusive terrace below the Villa dishes cooked to perfection, on
Orsula. Enjoy a veritable feast as the most impressive terrace in
Dubrovniks old port glitters ahead. the Old City, located right up on
Frana Supila 14 Map M5 020 440 the ramparts. Svetog Dominika 2
555 Closed lunch, OctMay KKKKK Map K4 020 322 222 KKKKK
Taverna Rustica
This romantic retreat nestled Hotel Dubrovnik Palace
The refined restaurant at this
in the rocks above the Adriatic Lapad hotel is well worth the
has unbeatable views of the Old journey. Excellent regional wines
City. The Dalmatian menu concen- accompany the creative cuisine,
trates on seafood; choose your and the views over the Elafiti
lobster from a tank (see also p49). Islands are stunning. Masarykov
Frana Supila 12 Map M5 020 353 Put 20 Map K4 020 430 000 KKKKK
353 Closed lunch, OctMay KKKKK
Rozarij
A cosy Old City restaurant in Villa Dubrovnik
In fine weather, the terrace
at Villa Dubrovnik is ideal right
the shadow of the Church of St by the sea, with views of the Old
Nicholas, Rozarij offers tasty City and Lokrum. Chic interior,
grilled meat and fish dishes. innovative menu Mediterranean.
Zlatarska 4 Map J5 020 321 257 Vlahe Bukovac 6 Map M5 020 422
Closed JanMar KKKK 933 Closed NovApr KKKKK
For more restaurant listings See pp489, 79, 87, 97 69

Around Northern Dalmatia
Left ibenik Old Town Right Primoten
Northern Dalmatia
I n the KrKa and Kornati national parKs, Northern Dalmatia possesses

two of Europes most stunning natural oases escapes of breathtaking
beauty that enchant everyone from families with children to world-weary
travellers. Beyond these two sublime retreats, much of the region is still
relatively unexplored, leaving the coastal cities of Zadar and ibenik relatively
free of the tourist crowds. Zadar is a vibrant Adriatic city whose Old Town
comes alive in summer with the bustle of pavement cafs and alfresco
restaurants, while in the Cathedral of St James, ibenik boasts one of
Europes most spellbinding cathedrals, as well as a rambling Old Town of its
own. Elsewhere, surprises
such as the trim waterfront
towns of Skradin and
Novigrad await, and in the
extreme north there is Nin,
an outpost crucial to early
Croatian history, where you
will also find some of the
best beaches in the land.
Krka National Park
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72 Preceding pages View of Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape), near Bol on

the island of Bra
Krka National Park
This natural playground of
pools, waterfalls and emerald
lakes makes for a perfect day-
trip. On a hot day, bring your

swimwear, as the boat that
brings you into the park from
Skradin drops you off near
Skradinski Buk, the best place in
the park to cool off in the clear
waters of the Krka River. The park
is well prepared for tourism, with
further boats heading off in search
of Visovac Monastery, Krka
Monastery and the waterfalls at
The Sea Gate, Zadar Old Town Roki Slap not to mention
restaurants, cafs, ice cream stalls
Zadar Old Town

Having hauled itself back from
and souvenir shops (see pp2021).
economic meltdown in the 1990s,

Zadar is once again a buzzing Paklenica National Park
Designated a national park
Adriatic city, complete with an in 1949, Paklenica has become
attractive old core which juts out the destination of choice for savvy
confidently on its own peninsula. Slovene and Italian climbers and
This compact and largely pedes- walkers. This protected wilderness
trianized area holds the citys main of vaulting limestone peaks rises
attractions, including a Roman from the coast through two
forum and the remarkable Church sweeping gorges, which just beg
of St Donats (see pp3031). to be explored. Velika Paklenica
is perfect for day-trippers and
ibenik Old Town

Given ibeniks unique
walkers, while the more rustic
and challenging charms of Mala
position as a city that was Paklenica attract serious outdoor
founded and developed by the types. A network of lodges and
early Croats rather than the mountain huts allows exploration
Romans or Venetians, it comes of the higher peaks, though all
as no surprise that its old core the usual precautions, as well as
is markedly different from the local advice, should be taken (see
standard Adriatic template. The p52). Map B2 Park Office: Franje
buildings are smaller, and the Tumana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica. 230
streets far narrower and tighter- 369 202. www.paklenica.hr Adm charge
knit a real warren, in
which it is easy to slip
back, in your imagination,
through the centuries. In
the streets below the
castle, forget your map
and just wander but
dont miss the Cathedral
of St James (see pp289,
37). Map C4 Tourist info:
Fausta Vrania 18. 022 212 075 Lilies in the Botanical Gardens, Paklenica National Park
For the stunnning Kornati National Park See pp267, 77 73

Tribunj
On the edge of the Kornati
National Park, and connected to
the mainland by a bridge, stands
the small islet of Tribunj. This is
Church of the Holy Cross, Nin the unlikely base for Dalmatias
largest fishing fleet, and when
Nin
This small, unassuming town
the catch is landed, it can be an
entertaining and colourful place
played a major role in Croatias to be. Its a good spot to stop
early history, when it was the for lunch or an afternoon visit;
political and religious heart of the part of the charm is that you can
kingdom. Long ignored by tourists, walk around the whole island in
it is now starting to become more 20 minutes. Map C4 Tourist info:
popular not just for its relaxed Badnje bb. 022 446 143
ambience, but for its interesting
ecclesiastical buildings (see p38)
and excellent beaches (see p42).
The town is easy to explore as
a half or full day-trip, and theres
a sprinkling of pension-style
accommodation. Map B3 Tourist
info: Trg Brae Radia 3. 023 265 247.
www.nin.hr
Primoten
Some say that Primoten
looks better from a distance than
it does close up, but this favourite
of the yachting community makes
for a very pleasant day-trip, and Fisherman mending nets, Tribunj
its hotels invite longer stays.
One of the coasts most popular
nightclubs, Aurora (see p78), is Krapanj
Just across from the rather
nearby. Map C4 Tourist info: Rudina unprepossessing mainland village
Biskupa Josipa Arneria 2. 022 571 111 of Brodarica (easily accessed
from the Adriatic Highway) lies
The Road to Independence the picturesque island of Krapanj
Northern Dalmatia was colonized the smallest inhabited island in
by the Greeks in the 4th century the Adriatic. The trim houses that
BC. The Romans followed, and it line the waterfront give way to a
was not until the 10th century that small old quarter that is still
the first Croat state emerged. In largely untouched by the
1204, the Venetians took Zadar, and incursions of tourism. The only
for several centuries they vied tourist attraction, housed in the
with Austria-Hungary for control
Franciscan Monastery, is the
of the region. The 20th century
saw the emergence of Yugoslavia, Town Museum, which delves
Mussolinis occupation, and the into the islands past as a major
35-year dominance of Tito. In 1991 sponge-diving centre. Boats from
Northern Dalmatia finally became Brodarica regularly ply the short
part of an independent Croatia. route across the channel to the
pancake-flat island. Map C4

without number.
A Day in Northern
Dalmatia
Morning
Make an early start and

head north out of ibenik
to the small town of
Skradin, where you can
have a light breakfast in
Franciscan Monastery, Krapanj one of the towns
waterfront cafs. From
here, you could just take a
Skradin
Skradin was on the front line boat to the Krka National
Park (see pp2021) and
during the wars of the 1990s, and spend the day there.
both its Catholic and Orthodox Alternatively, follow the
churches took heavy damage old road which winds its
during that period. These days way alongside the new
motorway towards Zadar;
the town is prospering, thanks
here, vineyards and new
both to its role as a gateway to houses are gradually
the Krka National Park (see restoring normality to a
pp2021), and to its accessibility terrain that not so long
as a sailing destination. Its quite ago was ravaged by war.
a compact little place, and can
From the road, you could
be walked around in an hour; either drop down to Lake
afterwards, you can reward Vrana (see p76) or just
yourself with lunch or dinner in carry straight on for lunch
one of the decent seafood in Zadar (see pp3031).
Just outside the old town,
restaurants that are geared
Foa (see pp48, 79) has a
towards visiting yachtsmen. pretty terrace by the water
Map C4 Tourist info: Trg Male with parking nearby.
Gospe 3. 022 771 306. www.skradin.hr
Afternoon
Novigrad After lunch, continue north
Apart from a well-equipped on the motorway from
Zadar. Turn off before the
campsite, tourism has yet really Maslenica Bridge and
to make its mark on Novigrad. follow the Novigradsko
The name means New Town, so More east to the compact
it comes as a pleasant surprise little town of Novigrad,
to discover its delightful old core, where you can climb the
hill to the fortress and
which meanders off up the enjoy sweeping views out
hillside. Here, rather than funky over Northern Dalmatia,
pavement-cafs and ice-cream before drifting back down
stalls, expect to see card-playing to one of the waterfront
men, and old women hanging caf-bars, where you can
take a break as the local
out their washing. The best view fishing fleet goes about its
of the town is from the ruined business. If youre short of
medieval fortress that looms time, head straight back to
over it from high on the hillside ibenik; otherwise, make
above. In season, boat trips a detour to Otavice (see
p76), where you can take
depart from Novigrad for the in the unforgettable family
nearby Zrmanja Gorge (see p76). mausoleum of sculptor
Map B3 Tourist info: Obala Elizabete Ivan Metrovi.
Kotromani 4. 023 375 051
75
Left Otavice Right Fortress of St Saviour, Knin
Best of the Rest

Otavice
Ivan Metrovis stunning Fort of St Nicholas,
ibenik
family mausoleum overlooks his Guarding the entrance to the
parents village. A cubed exterior channel that leads from the
gives way to an octagonal space Adriatic into ibenik, this charming
graced with delicate religious fortress dates back to the 16th
sculptures. Map D4 Open 811am, century. In summer, concerts are
58pm TueSun (summer); 10am2pm staged here. Map C4
TueSun (winter) Adm charge
Fortress of St Saviour, Knin

The imposing remains of this Stibenik
Johns Fortress,
This star-shaped fortification,

10th-century fortress, a crucial once a bulwark against the
defence against the Ottoman Ottomans (it survived a three-
Empire, sit high above the bleak week siege in 1647), rises 155 m
town of Knin. Map D3 022 664 (508 ft) above sea level. Map C4
822 Open 8am4pm daily Adm charge
Rogoznica
This old fishing village, just Krupa Monastery
Founded in the 17th century
by Bosnian monks fleeing the
off the Adriatic Highway between Ottomans, this is the largest
ibenik and Trogir, has become Serbian Orthodox monastery
popular with visiting sailors and in Croatia. Map C3
holidaymakers. Map C5 Tourist
office: Kneza Domagoja bb. 022 559 263.
www.rogoznica.com Biograd Na Moru
An early Croat settlement,
Biograd Na Moru is today a
Starigrad Paklenica
The gateway to Paklenica low-key resort with an attractive
waterfront and a spacious
National Park (see p73), this marina. In summer water sports
town is set dramatically between and trips to the Kornati Islands
the Adriatic and the Velebit are on offer from here. Map B3
mountains. Map B2 Tourist office: Tourist office: Trg Hrvatskih Velikana 2.
Trg Tome Marasovia 1. 023 369 255 023 383 123. www.tzg-biograd.hr
Zrmanja Gorge
The spectacular Zrmanja Lake Vrana
Situated just outside Biograd
Gorge has been opened up by Na Moru, the largest lake in
regular cruises in season from Croatia is over 13 km (8 miles)
Novigrad. Local operator Flash long. It is connected to the
Touring also runs canoe safaris Adriatic via a system of under-
up the gorge. Map C3 Flash ground channels and is home to
Touring: 023 375 201 numerous bird species. Map B4
76 Ask at ibeniks Civic Museum (Gradska Vrata 3. 022 213 800)

about visiting the Fort of St Nicholas and St Johns Fortress.
Left Pag Middle Paman Right Ugljan
Islands
Kornati Islands
This stunning necklace of Ugljan
The most heavily populated
unspoilt islands is a paradise for Adriatic island is popular with
sailors and day-trippers. For the commuters from Zadar (see
ultimate escape from it all, head pp3031). Despite this, it retains
for a deserted island for a taste something of an unspoilt feel,
of Robinson Crusoe tourism as well as producing some of
(see pp267). the countrys finest olive oil.
Map A3 Tourist office: 023 288 011.
Murter
The gateway to the Kornati www.ugljan.hr
National Park is an island

connected to the mainland by a ilba
S
Tree-cloaked Silba has a
bridge. As the main population lived-in feel, unlike that of the
centre, it is the place to come many barren north Dalmatian
for supplies (see p26). Map B4 islands, as it once stood on key
trading routes. Map A2 Tourist
Pag
Famed for its eponymous
office: 023 370 175
sheeps cheese and the quality

of its lamb, Pag is a notoriously Zlarin
Visitors to this island can
dry island. Its unforgettable wander around the quiet village
terrain looks like a moonscape of Zlarin after the scenic ferry
and is unlike anywhere else in ride from ibenik. This is
the Mediterranean. Pag Town a good place to pick up coral
also boasts an interesting old souvenirs before heading back
town (see p37). Map A2 to the mainland. Map C4
Dugi Otok
Not actually within the Kornati Privi
The island neighbouring
National Park (as some tour Zlarin is the setting for a clutch
operators may tell you), Dugi Otok of attractive villages, an old
is nevertheless a lovely place to church with Baroque altarpieces
spend the day, or to anchor a and a decent beach. Map C4
yacht for an afternoon. Map A3
Paman
Connected by a bridge to IThis island is a favourite
unspoilt escape for the citizens
Ugljan, this island is home to a of Zadar, from which there is a
couple of modest fishing villages direct ferry. There is little to do
and a Benedictine monastery. here apart from having an amble
There are ferry connections to around the olive groves and a
Biograd Na Moru. Map B3 swim in the sea. Map A3
Ask at the tourist office in ibenik for more information about Zlarin, 77
I and Privi, and in Biograd Na Moru for details on Paman.
Left Sunset strip, ibenik Middle Aurora, Primoten Right Maya Pub, Zadar
Cafs, Bars and Nightlife

Sunset Strip, ibenik
Relax with a drink by the Gotham, Zadar
This fun-filled nightlife
waters edge in ibenik old town. complex, located to the north of
Here you can enjoy the sunset at Zadars old town, boasts a club/
one of the sprinkling of outdoor caf and cinema. Renovated in
cafs, as their sound systems 2005, it has a Batman theme.
vie with each other. Map C4 Marka Orekovia 1 Map B3
No.4 Club, ibenik

This city-centre bar specializes Maya Pub, Zadar
A Balinese decor and lounge
in great cocktails beware, sounds are the order of the day
though, as they tend to be on in this bright and popular space.
the strong side. Food is on offer Expect surroundings decked out
too, and there is a terrace. Trg with exotic sculptures and a
Dinka Zavorovicar 4 Map C4 suitably chilled-out clientele.
Liburnska Obala 6 Map B3
Zre, Novalja, Pag
Although the Croatian Ibiza The Garden, Zadar
is not on the same scale as the This new arrival, owned by
Spanish original, this is a popular British reggae band UB40s
party beach. It has three big night- drummer James Brown and Nick
clubs, and many bars and fast- Colgan, is the place to see and
food outlets, all of which help be seen in Zadar. Bedemi
fuel the summer fun. Map A2 Zadarskih Pobuna Map B3
Saloon, Pag Town, Pag

The former salt warehouse Aurora, Primoten
There are three dance floors,
across the bridge from Pags a chill-out room, restaurants and
old town is transformed into a even a swimming pool at this
buzzing nightclub in the summer huge out-of-town nightclub
months. It opens its doors nightly complex. Big DJ names to have
during July and August and every featured here recently include
Friday and Saturday in June and Roger Sanchez and David
September. Map A2 Morales. Kamenar bb Map C4
Caff Bar Forum, Zadar

Soak up the view of the Club Hacienda, Vodice
The open-air Hacienda Club
Roman remains and spectacular is a big venue in an equally large
ecclesiastical buildings that can resort. It has boasted inter-
be seen from this friendly caf. national names such as Benny
Outdoor tables spread right Benassi and the Shapeshifters
out into the Roman forum in and releases its own compilation
summer. iroka 24 Map B3 CDs. Magistrala bb Map C4

without number.
Price Categories

Foa, Zadar
Places to Eat
Konoba Branimir, Nin
Simple Dalmatian cuisine, a Kornat, Zadar
Kornats friendly waiting staff
cosy atmosphere and a small serve up innovative meat and
terrace overlooking the oldest fish dishes in elegant surrounds.
church in Croatia make this rustic Non-smokers note: smoking is
eatery a fine choice. Vieslavov permitted throughout. Liburnska
Trg 2 Map B3 023 264 866 KK Obala 6 Map B3 023 254 501 KKK
Restaurant Perin Dvor, Nin

At this friendly restaurant, Gradska Vjenica, ibenik
Most people come here for
close to Nins Donji Most (Lower the view as much as the food.
Bridge), you can dine on fresh Dine on shellfish, delicate white
fish and simple Dalmatian grills fish or grilled meat in the shadow
on an attractive garden terrace. of the Cathedral of St James (see
The towns majorettes cause pp289). Trg Republike Hrvatske 1
a stir from time to time by Map C4 022 213 605 KKK
practising outside. Hrvatskog
Sabora 1 Map B3 023 264 307 KKK
Tamaris, Dugi Otok
This simple konoba (inn)
Konoba 85, Novalja

Set back from Novaljas busy
serves grilled meat, and fish
straight from the Adriatic. Obala
Riva and open year round, this Kralja Tomislava, Sali Map B3 023 377
restaurant serves up first-rate 236 Closed NovMar KK
fish dishes and is frequented by
locals. The creamy tagliatelle with
prawns is a must. Josipa Kunkere Hotel Restaurant Biser,
Pag Town, Pag
4 Map A2 053 663 680 KKK The menu at this award-winning
restaurant includes local delicacies
Zlatna Ribica, Brodarica

On Friday and Saturday
such as spit-roast Pag lamb, salty
Paki sir and prut (see p48).
evenings, live music suffuses Booking essential in high season.
this upmarket fish restaurant (see Antuna Gustava Matoa 8 Map A2
p48), which has an adjoining 023 611 333 KKKKK
pension. Krapanjskih Spuzvara 46
Map C4 022 350 300 KKKK
Restoran
Primoten
Dalmacija,
Foa, Zadar
Fresh fish, and an unbeatable
This old-town restaurant serves
innovative Dalmatian cuisine, with
location just outside Zadars dishes like octopus with pineapple
Land Gate, ensure that this local and tuna carpaccio alongside
favourite is always busy (see more simple meat dishes and
p48). Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2 Map grills. Put Murve 15 Map C4 022
B3 023 314 421 KKKK 570 009 Closed NovMar KKK

Around Central Dalmatia
Left The fish market, housed in a 16th-century loggia, Trogir Old Town Right Gradac
Central Dalmatia
C entral Dalmatia has it all a large, vibrant city with a Mediterranean

swagger, a wealth of historic towns, and some of the countrys most
popular islands. The city in question, Split, is Croatias second biggest, after
Zagreb. Its also the nations busiest ferry hub, making it a great base for
exploring the likes of lavender-infused Hvar, Bra, famous for the marble which
helped build the White House, and remote Vis, many Croats favourite Adriatic
island. Traces of the various civilizations that have swept through the region
emerge colourfully, with epic Roman remnants like Diocletians Palace in Split
and the ruined town of Salona, while the Venetian empire too has left its mark,
on Trogir, Hvar and Vis. With an increasing number of flights into Split, and
the brand new motorway linking it to Zagreb and
the European road network, this scenically stunning
corner of Croatia seems on an inexorable rise.
Sights
Trogir Old Town Gradac

Diocletians Palace, Split Klis
Katela Brela
Salona Omi
Makarska Riviera ivogoe and Zaostrog
Main Hall, Diocletians Palace
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Trogir Old Town
When youve
explored the profusion
of churches, palaces and
grand buildings that this

perfectly preserved gem
has to offer, relax on the
wide waterfront Riva,
where pavement cafs
and al fresco restaurants Katel Luki
bubble with activity day
and night (see pp1819). stretch of beach, pretty Katel
Gomolica, Katel Kambelovac,
Make sure to leave plenty of
which boasts a seafood
restaurant, and Katel Luki,
time to explore and relax in one which has been converted into a
of the most atmospheric city modest gallery and caf.
centres in Europe; the warren- Map D5 Tourist info: Brce 1, Dvorac
like palace complex can be so Vitturi, Katel Luki. 021 228 355
captivating that day-trippers
Salona
often end up missing their ferry,
or just deciding to stay for an Salona (the name derives
unplanned day or two. The palace from the Latin word for salt)
is not at all what you expect an is the supposed birthplace of
ancient monument to be like; its Emperor Diocletian (see p25).
full of life, with people hanging Nowadays its just a ruin, with
their washing out of the windows none of the life and energy of
of flats set into its walls, bustling Diocletians Palace, but this old
restaurants in lavish courtyards, Roman town just outside Split
and funky bars, where the local does allow visitors to gain an
beautiful people (the Spliani insight into ancient Roman life.
are renowned for their beauty, If you can forget the stranglehold
and big model agencies regularly of the surrounding industrial
send scouts here) come to see development, its a pretty site,
and be seen (see pp223). with mountains to one side and
the Adriatic to the other. The
Katela
Between Split and Trogir, an
Tusculum is a good place to
begin your exploration. Also
untidy morass of cheap housing look out for the amphitheatre,
and light industry surrounds the the Roman baths, the old Forum,
main road, but by the coast, the the Theatre and the Necropolis
hidden gems of Katela await of Manastirine. Map D5
discovery. The castles from
which the area takes its name
date back as far as the 15th
century, when they were built
both as coastal defences and
lavish retreats for the local
nobles; you can walk from one
to the next along the coast. The
highlights are Katel Stari (the
oldest), which has a decent Necropolis of Manastirine, Salona
Head to the second floor of Diocletians Palace to escape the 81

summer crowds.
the longest on the Croatian
coast. Its a spectacular spot,
with the Biokovo Mountains
rising to the north and the islands
of Central Dalmatia to the south.
Theres plenty of shade to keep

the worst ravages of the summer
sun at bay, as well as a flurry of
campsites and hotels for those
who fancy an extended stay (see
p43). Map J1 Tourist info: Stjepana
Radia 1. 021 697 511. www.gradac.hr
Franciscan monastery, Makarska Riviera
Makarska Riviera
A mecca for Bosnians and Klis
This hulking fortress
complex in the mountains above
citizens of the former Soviet bloc Split enjoys a stunning setting,
countries, this massively popular with impressive views of the
coastal strip south of Split is not city, mountains, sea and islands.
to everyones taste. Still, if you The Romans were the first to
can find a quiet stretch of beach, use the site. Later it became a
then it can be a bulwark against the
pleasant place to sit, Ottomans, who finally
gazing out at the captured it in 1513
islands of Bra and after a bitter siege;
Hvar from the shade they held it for more
of the pine trees that than a century, to the
fringe it. The resort of dismay of the residents
Makarska has some of Split. Today, Klis is
interesting old build- justifiably famed for a
ings and a lively bustle The Fortress of Klis trio of roadside
of bars, cafs and restaurants specializing
restaurants. Map F5 Tourist info: in spit-roasted lamb. Map D5
Obala Kralja Tomislava 16. 021 612 002. Tourist info: Megdan 57. 021 240 578.
www.makarska.hr www.tzo-klis.hr
Gradac
Gradac is best known for its Brela
Travelling south from Split,
beach, which at 6 km (4 miles) is this is the first resort you come
to on the Makarska Riviera, and
Language and Nationhood one of the nicest spots to while
Under French rule (180613), away a day or two just relaxing
Croatian became the official by the sea. Brela is a pleasant
language of Dalmatia, but when town with a gaggle of old stone
the Austrians took over in 1813, houses and a few modern hotels
they re-introduced Italian as the and restaurants, but its the beach
language of public life an that people come for a tree-
important spur for the growth of shrouded sinew of pebble and
Croatian nationalism. In 1865,
shingle that curls around the coast
Makarska became one of the
first communes to bring back north of the town. Map E5 Tourist
Croatian as its official language. info: Trg A. Stepinca bb. 021 618 337.
www.brela.hr

without number.
Omi
Set at the point where the
Island-hopping
Cetina river emerges from its Morning
rugged gorge to discharge into During high season, a
the Adriatic, Omi is a good base number of companies

for rafting trips (see p44), and a operate hydrofoils that
help the big Jadrolinija
convenient jumping-off point for ferries (see p103) transport
the gorge and its enjoyable fish passengers around the
restaurants. Once a notorious central Dalmatian islands,
pirate bolthole, these days Omi making it possible to spend
is a largely modern town, although a long day island-hopping.
it does have a small historic Start the day with a light
quarter, and there are some breakfast at one of the
atmospheric old fortifications in small quayside cafs near
the hills above the town. Map the ferry terminal in Split
E5 Tourist info: Trg Kneza Branislava bb. before heading out on the
first Jadrolinija ferry to Vis
021 861 350. www.tz-omis.hr
(see p84). After a stroll
around Vis Towns water-
ivogoe and Zaostrog

At the southern end of the
front, head for the Venetian-
style Kut district (see p37)
in time for lunch at one of
Makarska Riviera is the small
its excellent restaurants
resort of ivogoe. The oldest
(see pp48, 87). Head back
settlement on this stretch of the to the ferry terminal and
coastline, it is home to a 17th- catch a fast ferry to Hvar
century Franciscan monastery Town (see p36). If youve
with an impressive Baroque altar overindulged, you can
work off lunch with a brisk
and a renowned library whose
hike up to the fortress
holdings shed light on life during above the town.
the Ottoman occupation of the
region. Slightly further south is Afternoon
Zaostrog, home to an older (16th- Time now for the last island
century) Franciscan monastery, of the day, so head by
an attractive site with a small art hydrofoil to the resort of
Bol on the island of Bra
gallery and folk museum. Map (see p84), home to Croatias
H1 Tourist info: ivogoe bb. 021 605 most famous beach, Zlatni
069. www.zivogosce.hr Rat (see p42). If the fancy
takes you, you could relax
and spend the night here.
Otherwise, head back to
Split either from Bol, or
from the port of Supetar on
the other side of the island,
where Jadrolinija ferries
run till late.
Note: sailing schedules are

liable to change as often as
the unpredictable Adriatic
winds, so this itinerary
should be carefully
planned. Check timetables
at the ferry terminal in Split,
or at the kiosks at the
southern end of the Riva.
Franciscan monastery, Zaostrog
When travelling by ferry, take plenty of sunscreen if you plan on 83

sitting or standing outside for any length of time.
Left Hvar Middle Vis Right Bra
Islands
Bievo
This isle off Vis is home to Pakleni Islands
The Islands of Hellare,
the famed Blue Grotto, with its contrary to what their name
stunning visual play of water and suggests, simple rustic places.
light. Boat trips operate from They are great for getting
Komia. Map C6 Tourist office: Riva away from the glitz and weight
Sv Mikule 2, Komia 021 713 455 of history of Hvar Town and
spending a day sunbathing and
Hvar
One of the sunniest Adriatic
swimming (see p42).
islands is cloaked by an aromatic

blanket of lavender and other wild Drvenik Mali
Small Drvenik has a
herbs. The highlight of this long, pleasant bay, where those looking
sinewy isle is Hvar Town (see to escape the heat of Trogir in
p36). Map D6 Tourist office: Trg Sveti summer can chill out for a while,
Stjepana 021 741 059 www.tzhvar.hr but few facilities. Map C5
Vis
Once an off-limits military Drvenik Veli
Big Drvenik offers an
base, this rugged and unspoilt agreeable town of the same
island is popular with Croats and, name, which welcomes visiting
increasingly, tourists too. yachts and has a couple of
Charming Vis Town lies across pensions and fish restaurants.
the hills from Komia. Map D6 Other parts of the island offer
Tourist office: etalite Stare Isse 5, Vis good swimming. Map D5
Town 021 717 017 www.tz-vis.hr
Bra
Marble from this mountainous iovo
This island is joined by a
bridge to Trogir (see p81). The
island just off Split was used for views back from iovo to Trogirs
Diocletians Palace, the Hungarian old town are worth the walk
Parliament and the White House alone. There is a marina and
in Washington DC. Bra also also a sprinkling of places to
boasts Croatias most famous eat and drink. Map D5
beach, Zlatni Rat (see p42). Map
E5 Tourist office: Porat Bolskih Pomoraca
bb, Bol 021 635 638 www.bol.hr edro
This sparsely populated
island near Hvar offers some
olta
This often overlooked island, attractive beaches, as well as a
ruined Roman villa in Rake Bay
located right next to Split, is and the remains of a Dominican
well worth a day trip, if not an monastery in Mostir Bay.
overnight stay. Map D5 Map G1
84 Ferries link Split to olta, and Trogir to Drvenik Mali and Veli.
Water taxis go to the Pakleni Islands and edro from Hvar Town.
Cetina Gorge
Inland Excursions
Sinj
A historic mountain town Mosor
A mountain range extending
with some interesting churches, between Klis and Omi, Mosor
on 15 August annually, Sinj hosts attractively frames the Cetina
the massively popular Sinjska river and a number of small
Alka medieval festival (which villages. Explore it by car, or join
bears some similarities to the Croatian climbers tackling
Sienas famous Palio). Map E4 the barren Mosor Mountain.
Tourist office: Vrlicka 41 021 826 352 Map E5
Plitvice Lakes
The UNESCO World Heritage Red Lake (Crveno Jezero)
You cannot see this 300-m
listed Plitvice Lakes are an oasis (1,000-ft) wide lake near Imotski
of limestone pools, lakes and from afar, as it lies tucked away in
waterfalls that lie within a well an inaccessible pit. The strange
organized national park. Map B1 ochre hue its waters take on
053 751 015 www.np-plitvicka-jezera. comes from the surrounding
hr Open 8am7pm daily Adm charge landscape. Map F5
Cetina Gorge
This starkly beautiful gorge Blue Lake (Modro Jezero)
It is possible to get down
cuts through the heart of Central to water level at this pit lake,
Dalmatia, before a rendezvous which takes on a contrasting
with the Adriatic at Omi. It is colour to its sibling, the Red
increasingly popular with rafters, Lake. In summer, low waters
who often start near the town of reveal bizarre rock formations at
Penii. Foodies savour its fish this spooky place. Map F5
restaurants. Map E4
Gubavica Falls
Near the village of Zadvarje, Mostar
This Bosnian city has a
famous bridge linking its two
to the north of Omi, the Cetina sides, over the Neretva river
river plunges dramatically almost (see p67). off map Tourist office:
50 m (165 ft) through the karst 387 (0)36 580 275
landscape. Map E5
Zadvarje
This village is a good spot Livno
A southern Bosnian town,
just across the Croatian border,
for appreciating the beauty of Livno is renowned for its
the Cetina Gorge. From the cliffs excellent cheese. Pick up a round
around here the waterfalls look of this tasty cheese here for next
particularly impressive after to nothing, though be aware that
heavy rain. Map E5 it is unpasteurized. Map E4
Visitors to Croatia from Europe, the USA, Australia and New 85

Zealand do not currently need visas to enter Bosnia or Montenegro.
Bavice, Split
Cafs, Bars and Nightlife

Vidilica, Split
Sweeping views of the city Smokvica, Trogir
This caf-bar in the shadow
and its busy port are to be had of the cathedral opens at 7am
from this caf on the Marjan for espresso and keeps going till
hillside. It is worth the hike up the small hours, by which time
on a sunny day just to sit back it has metamorphosed into a
with a cold drink and take in the buzzing live-music venue with
scene. Nazorov Prilaz 1 Map P5 an extensive cocktail menu.
Radovanov Trg 9 Map D5
Puls 2, Split
This perennially popular bar Art Caf, Makarska
has a great location at the heart It would be worth coming to
of Diocletians Palace. In summer Makarska just to visit this bar a
there are cute low outdoor tables chic and classy place that spills
and chairs. Loud music fills the out into an attractive courtyard.
dark interior. Buvinina 1 Map P2 Don Mihovila Pavlinovia 1 Map F5
Bavice, Split
Located south of the centre Venerada, Hvar Town
This summer venue has an
of Split, this massively popular open-air cinema and various club
modern nightlife complex is set nights. It is located on the hill
on the bay of the same name. behind the Delfin Hotel. Keep
Theres a multitude of bars, cafs, your eyes peeled for adverts for
restaurants and nightclubs to it around town. Map D6
choose from. Great fun on a hot
summer evening. Map Q6
Carpe Diem, Hvar Town
Hvar Town boasts this ultra-
Ghetto Club, Split

This retreat of the local
cool Ibiza-style cocktail bar that
pumps out mellow tunes through
cognoscenti gets few tourists as to the early hours of the morning.
it is on the often-ignored upper Watch from the summer terrace
level of the Diocletians Palace. as yachts cruise in and out of the
It has a busy bar and a spacious harbour. Riva bb Map D6
courtyard for summer use.
Dosud 10 Map P2
Faces Club, Bol, Bra
Near the resort of Bol, one
F1, Trogir
This big and highly popular
of the best beaches in Croatia
(see p42) is complemented by
dance-music orientated nightclub one of the countrys largest
draws in the crowds from Trogir, outdoor discos. This is what
5 km (3 miles) away, and Split, happens when Splits trendy
20 km (12 miles) away. Junction Masters Club branches out onto
of Magistrala and airport road Map D5 the island of Bra. Map E5
86
Price Categories
For a three course K under 100kn

Nostromo, Split
Places to Eat
Stellon, Split
A funky favourite with 20- and Macondo, Hvar Town
This top-quality seafood
30-somethings out at Bavice, restaurant in Hvars old town is
Stellon offers delicious seafood, no longer a local secret so book
meat dishes and pizzas, tempting ahead. Prices are suitably steep.
drinks, and wonderful sea views In summer you can eat outside.
(see p48). Bavice bb Map Q6 Groda bb Map D6 021 742 850
021 489 200 KK KKKKK
Nostromo, Split
Right by the fish market is Palaa Paladini, Hvar Town
Tuck into delicious grilled fish
this trim seafood restaurant. Sit and meat dishes in a courtyard
upstairs and you can watch as the full of orange trees. Smooth ser-
ultra-fresh seafood for your platter vice and good vegetarian food are
is grilled (see p48). Kraj Sv Marije other plus points. Petra Hektorovica
10 Map N2 091 505 6666 KKKK Map D6 021 742 104 KKKK
umica, Split
A favourite with besuited Vila Kaliopa, Vis Town
A treat is in store for diners
business types, this classy joint at this simply divine restaurant.
is set in woodland near the Top-notch seafood is served in a
Adriatic. It produces both meat sculpture-laden garden in the Kut
and seafood dishes, with panache. district of Vis Town (see p48).
There is an outdoor terrace. Put Nazora 32 Map D6 091 271 1755
Firula 6 Map Q6 021 389 897 KKKK Closed NovFeb KKKKK
Restoran Fontana, Trogir

Trogir old towns best hotel Restoran Pojoda, Vis Town
This upmarket restaurant,
has a great restaurant with a with an ornate courtyard, charges
terrace where diners can absorb by the kilo for top-class fish. The
the atmosphere of the Riva (see fine food comes with a wine list
p49). Unlike many places in and service to match. Don
town, it is open all year. Obrovo Cvjetka Marasovia 8 Map D6 021
1 Map D5 021 884 811 KKK 711 575 KKKKK
Restoran Monika, Trogir

Set within its own courtyard Taverna, Bol, Bra
You will find this friendly
in Trogirs old town, Monika is an waterfront restaurant between
atmospheric dining choice. Grilled the old town and Zlatni Rat
seafood is the speciality, and the beach, near where the fast ferries
place is packed out in high season. come in. Dalmatian specialities.
Budislaviceva 12 Map D5 021 884 Radica Frane 5 (Riva) Map E5 021
808 Closed late DecMar KKK 635 236 Closed NovDec KK

Around Southern Dalmatia
Left Peljeac vineyards Right Konavle
Southern Dalmatia
D espite the popularity of its most famous city, Dubrovnik, Southern

Dalmatia remains relatively unexplored and perhaps for that reason,
unspoilt. Much of its appeal lies in the great diversity of the natural landscape,
with pristine beaches, sheer cliffs, fertile farmland, dense forests, rolling hills
and dramatic mountains all packed into a narrow and easily navigable strip
of land. The Adriatic is never far away generous provider of the top-quality
seafood which can be served in even the most humble konoba (taverna),
where you may also sample one of the excellent local wines from the vineyards
of the Peljeac Peninsula. And when you think youve seen it all, its easy to
launch off into neighbouring Bosnia-Herzegovina or Montenegro.
Sights
Neretva Delta

Orebi
Korula Town
Peljeac Vineyards
Ston
Mali Ston
Trsteno Arboretum
Mljet National Park
Cavtat
Konavle
Pebble beach, Orebi
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90 Preceding pages Belltower of the Franciscan monastery, Dubrovnik,

seen through the colonnade of the Romanesque cloisters
Neretva Delta
On its journey to the sea, the
Neretva river fans out to create
the lush, water-drenched land-
scape of the Neretva Delta. This
Around Southern Dalmaia

200-sq-km (77-sq-mile) expanse
is partially navigable by boat, and
can also be explored by car. Not
only is the delta vital to Croatian
agriculture, it provides a sanctuary
for the myriad species of bird that
stop off here as they migrate
south to Africa. Many fish inhabit
this anglers paradise, including
eels and an indigenous species Korula Town
of trout. The Atlas Travel Agency
organize visits from Dubrovnik.
Map J1 Atlas Travel Agency: 0800 442 Peljeac Vineyards
Many people treat the
222. www.atlas-croatia.com Peljeac Peninsula as little more
than a quick route from Dubrovnik
Orebi
This small seaside town on
to Korula Town. In doing so, they
miss an opportunity to explore the
the Peljeac Peninsula has been vineyards that produce what is
quietly luring visitors for decades, arguably Croatias best red wine,
with its idyllic location, long, sun- Dinga. A guided tour is a simple
drenched pebble beaches, laid- way of rectifying this oversight;
back cafs and high-quality Atlass Dubrovnik-based excursion
restaurants. Recently, Orebi takes in three cellars in the
has undergone something of a villages of Potomje and Prizdrina.
transformation, with luxurious From Potomje, tunnels bored into
apartments springing up as an the Peljeac mountains lead to
alternative to the resort quiet beaches. Map J2
hotels nearby, and real-
estate agents moving in
to snare those tempted Ston
The Republic of
to stay. Map H1 Tourist Ragusa (see pp89) left
info: Trg Mimbelli bb. 020 713 an enduring reminder of
718. www.tz-orebic.com its presence in Ston. The
14th-century fortifications,
Korula Town
The historic core of
erected to guard against
attack by sea, resemble a
Korula Town is one of 14th-century miniature Great Wall of
Dalmatias most dramatic fortifications, Ston China. Todays relaxed
set-pieces. For the visitor, pace of life is a far cry
it offers attractive architecture, from the days when Ston was
fine restaurants and tranquil the second most powerful centre
waterside cafs from which to in the Republic. Other attractions
admire dazzling sunsets. The include salt pans, and stunning
town is also something of an views of the Dinaric Mountains
activity centre, with wind-surfing, and the vaulting peaks of Bosnia.
yachting and diving all popular Map J2 Tourist info: Peljeki Put 1.
watersports (see pp1617). 020 754 452. www.tzo-ston.com

without number.
Marco Polo of trees and plants from around
The island of Korula is alleged the world tumbles towards the
by some to be the birthplace of Adriatic, with fine views of
legendary explorer Marco Polo Trsteno harbour and the Elafiti
a claim hotly disputed by both Islands beyond. Highlights of this
Venice and Genoa. There is tranquil oasis 20 km (12 miles)

evidence to suggest that he at northwest of Dubrovnik include
least visited Korula Town, so the a 500-year-old plane tree, a water
idea may not be total fantasy
garden whose ornate fountain
something the locals have seized
upon, with Marco Polos House depicts Neptune surrounded
now open as a museum. by nymphs, and an aqueduct.
Potok 20, Trsteno Map K2 020 751
019 Open summer: 8am7pm daily;
Mali Ston
A short walk north of Ston is
winter: 8am5pm daily Adm charge
its smaller sibling, Mali Ston.

Gastronomes from all over Croatia
and Italy flock to Little Ston to
savour the finest fresh fish, with
shellfish plucked straight from
the Stonski Channel a highlight
on any menu. The scenery is as
spectacular as the seafood, and
it is perhaps unsurprising that
this idyllic waterside spot with
its aphrodisiac oysters has Fountain of Neptune, Trsteno Arboretum
become a popular haunt with
amorous Croatian weekend-
breakers. Some of the restaurants Mljet National Park
The western corner of Mljet
have rooms which at least was designated a National Park
helps prevent arguments about in 1960, in a bid to conserve the
who is going to drive. Map K2 islands holm oak and Aleppo
pine forests. Among the main
Trsteno Arboretum
At the beginning of the 16th
attractions are the interconnected
saltwater lakes, Veliko Jezero
century, the Gueti family sowed (Great Lake) and Malo Jezero
the seeds of what has since (Small Lake). The former is
become one of Europes most home to the striking and
impressive arboretums. Making frequently remodelled 12th-
the most of its dramatic seaside century Monastery of St Mary,
setting, this expansive collection which dominates the eponymous
Sveta Marija Island.
Another highlight is the
small village of Polae,
with its Roman ruins
and dramatic setting
astride Mljets biggest
and most attractive
harbour. Pristanite 2,
20226 Goveari Map J2
020 744 041 www.
Mijet National Park np-mljet.hr Adm charge
92
Cavtat
Croatias most southerly
A Drive Along the
Peljeac Peninsula
resort was first settled in the 3rd
century BC, and it still bears the Morning
marks of the Illyrians, Greeks, Forty-five minutes north of
Around Southern Dalmaia

Romans and Slavs who occupied Dubrovnik on the Adriatic
it at one time or another. When Highway (a scenic though
youre not sampling the caf-life frustrating drive), a sign-
posted left turn leads onto
on the waterfront promenade, the mountainous Peljeac
look out for the 16th-century Peninsula; the town of Mali
Rectors Palace, and a mausoleum Ston is a short distance
by Ivan Metrovicommissioned further on. Time your arrival
by the wealthy Rai family. Also for a first-class early lunch
of oysters and fresh fish in
worth a visit is the Vlaho Bukovac the wonderful Vila Koruna
Gallery, dedicated to the memory (see p48). After lunch,
of one of Croatias most famous make the short journey to
painters. Map L3 Vlaho Bukovac Mali Stons sibling, Ston,
Gallery: Vlahe Bukovca 5. 020 478 646. and explore its rugged old
walls (currently being
10am1pm, 48pm TueSun. Adm charge considered for inclusion on
UNESCOs World Heritage
list). Back in the car, follow
the main road as it heads
inland, emerging after half
an hour or so by the Malo
More (Small Sea) on the
northeast coast of the
peninsula. Make a brief
pit-stop at the Beach Bar
(see p96), with its great
waterside location.
Afternoon
Back on the main road,
Janjina (see p94), a little
further on, is a good place
Vlaho Bukovac (18551922), self-portrait
to pull up and buy home-
produced wine; just look
Konavle
The dramatic landscape of
out for signs. Alternatively,
continue on the same route
this narrow strip of land extending until you reach Potomje,
from Cavtat down to Kotor Bay in the home of Croatias best
red wine, Dinga. Some of
Montenegro is characterized by the cellars here welcome
harsh karst rock, verdant forests visitors (but remember that
and sheer cliffs. An exploration Croatian law prohibits
of the area turns up ancient burial drivers from consuming any
cairns, ruined fortresses, the alcohol). Continue northwest
to the low-key resort of
remnants of a Roman aqueduct, Orebi, whose beaches and
and hills studded with vines and scenic location merit an
olive groves. Less obvious to overnight stay; or take a car
casual visitors is the destruction ferry across the Peljeki
wreaked during the war of the Kanal to Korula Town (see
pp1617) and spend the
early 1990s, when many of the night there. If you have to
areas villages were decimated. get back to Dubrovnik, its
Organized safaris are a good only a two-hour drive away.
option (see p67). Map L3
93
Left Bust of Roman emperor Vespasian at Vids museum Right Janjina
Best of the Rest

Viganj
This small settlement with Baina Lakes
These six interlinked fresh-
a 17th-century Dominican mona- water lakes just north of Ploe are
stery unfolds around the Bay of an impressive sight.Surrounded
Viganj, backed by the Peljeac by lush vegetation, they provide
mountains and looking out to the a habitat for a plethora of fish
island of Korula. Windsurfers and bird species. Map J1
flock to this picturesque spot for
its windswept beaches. Map H1
Kula Norinska
Dating from the 16th century,
Vid
Inhabited by both Greeks
this seven-storey cylindrical tower
at the junction of the Norin
and Romans, Vid thrived as a and Neretva rivers has formerly
trading post between the islands served as both a military lookout
and the hinterland until the 7th and a windmill. Map J1
century AD. View the remains of
Roman Narona around the town
and at Vids museum. Map J1 Trpanj
The Peljeac Peninsulas
north coast is the picturesque
ilipi
With regular folk events and setting for a small resort with
a pebble beach and a cluster of
an ethnographic museum, ilipi is pavement cafs. Trpanj affords
on the tour circuit from Dubrovnik. sweeping views across Malo
On Sundays during high season More towards the hulking
the presence of performers in Biokovo Mountains. Map H1
traditional costumes brightens Tourist office: alo 7 020 743 433
up the main square. Map L3
Oraac
This pleasant village 15 km Trstenik
On the west coast of the
Peljeac Peninsula you can visit
(9 miles) north of Dubrovnik has relaxed Trstenik, with old stone
a fine 15th-century church and a houses and a sheltered harbour.
palatial 16th-century villa. Its small Protected by the hills that rear
marina and decent beach face up behind it, the village has
the Elafiti Islands. Map K2 seaward views of Mljet and
Lastovo. Map J2
Lumbarda
Located to the east of Korula
Janjina
Town, this pretty settlement lures This compact village, with an
visitors with its sandy beaches ornate church, tumbles down the
(see p43) and secluded coves, Peljeac hillside towards the sea.
as well as the water sports on Its a great place to pick up wine
offer in summer. Map H2 from local vineyards. Map J2
94 The Dubrovnik-Neretva Country Tourist Board can provide more

details on these sights: Cvijete Zuzori 1/I, Dubrovnik, 020 324 999.
Left Badija Right Koloep
Islands
Lokrum
The most southerly of the Suac
A tiny island near Lastovo,
Elfati Islands, this tree-shrouded, Suac is accessible by private
beach-fringed nature reserve is a boat. Its 19th-century lighthouse,
perfect day-trip from Dubrovnik. which offers inspirational views,
It is home to the Natural History can be rented out (see p115).
Museum, set in the cloister of a Snorkelling and scuba diving
ruined 10th-century Benedictine options are good. Map K2
monastery. Map L3
Koloep
One of the Elafiti Islands, Korula
Perhaps the most interesting
of the southern Dalmatian islands
Koloeps main attraction is a boasts the gem of Korula Town
sandy beach that is seldom as (see pp1617), vineyards and
crowded as Dubrovniks, a short beaches. Map H1
ferry ride away. There are two
small villages to explore, as well
as the dense woods that cover Badija
Just off Korula and reached
most of the island. Map K2 by taxi boat is this small island,
once home to a community of
Lopud
Once a populous stronghold
Franciscan monks. The Franciscan
church and monastery are both
of the Republic of Ragusa, Lopud well preserved and make a
now enjoys a peaceful retirement. striking sight by the sea. Map H1
An old monastery, churches and
a choice of beaches make this
Elafiti island worth a visit. Map K2 Majsan
Even smaller than Badija is
Majsan, which is also reached by
ipan
There is little to do bar relax taxi boat from Korula Town. The
relics on this island include the
and take in the rays on this quiet remains of a Roman settlement
Elafiti retreat.It has a hotel and a and the ruined medieval church
couple of pensions. Map K2 of St Maximus. Map H1
Lastovo
A remote and little-developed Palagrua
This slip of land extends out
island, Lastovo is a relaxed place into the Adriatic to the very edge
where you can escape the tourist of Croatian territorial waters. The
throngs. Lastovo Town is unusual 100-m (330-ft) tall lighthouse,
in that it turns its back on the offering Robinson Crusoe breaks
sea. Map G2 Tourist office: Lastovo (see p115), is a rare feature on
bb, Lastovo Town 020 801 018 www. an island that has to be reached
lastovo-tz.net by private boat. off map
Tour boats leave Dubrovnik for Lokrum, Korula and the Elafiti 95
Islands, and Split for Lastovo and Korula.
Left Massimo, Korula Town Middle Konoba Marko Polo, Korula Right Waterfront, Orebi
Cafs, Bars & Nightlife

Beach Caf, near Lumbarda
The sandy beach of Prina, Hotel Korula,
Korula Town
south of Lumbarda, has a This terrace caf overlooking
modest caf-bar that makes a Korula Towns old port is a great
perfect spot to relax in between place to enjoy a coffee while
dips in the Adriatic, which you take in the passing scene.
tempts nearby. Map H2 Obala bb (west harbour) Map H1
Mamilo, Lastovo Town

You will find Lastovo Towns Konoba Marko Polo,
Korula Town
only year-round caf-bar on a hill With tables at the edge of the
just behind the town. The friendly old town, from which views of
owner usually keeps it open until the mountains and the Peljeki
his last customer leaves. Map G2 Channel open up, this is a superb
haunt. It is a restaurant, but
Riva, Cavtat
While away a pleasant hour
you can drift in for a few drinks.
etalite Petra Kanavelia bb Map H1
or so at one of the caf-bars on
Cavtats waterfront, taking in the
distinctly Mediterranean ambience Bella Vista,
Peljeac Peninsula
and the views over the bay and All the buses between Dubrovnik
offshore islands. Map L3 and Korula call here for a rest
stop and, if driving, you should
Massimo, Korula Town

Perched atop one of the
too. Swathes of the Peljeac
Peninsula can be admired from
towns defensive bastions, this the terrace. Sveti Kria 104 Map J2
popular summer bar comes
complete with a unique pulley
system for drinks. You can Beach Bar,
Peljeac Peninsula
appreciate the sunset, as the This slightly kitsch beach bar,
swallows swirl on the skyline. with palm trees, a thatched roof
Food is served downstairs. and gaudy signs, is a good place
etalite Petra Kanavelia bb Map H1 to stop for a cool drink as you
traverse the Peljeac Peninsula.
Fresh, Korula Town

The old part of Korula Town
It is located between Drae and
Janjina (see p94). Map J2
can be pretty quiet late at night,
but this is one of the livelier bars.
Located by the bus station, it Waterfront, Orebi
After a day relaxing on one
attracts local teenagers and of Dalmatias best beaches (see
visitors looking for some late- p42), unwind further in one of
night action outside their hotels. Orebis waterfront cafs, with
etalite Frana Krinia bb Map H1 great views of Korula. Map H1

without number.
Price Categories

Kolona, Cavtat
Restaurants
Vila Koruna, Mali Ston
Arguably the best choice in a Konoba Bavara,
Lastovo Town
small town that boasts a number Set in a traditional stone house
of first-class fish restaurants, at the heart of town, this cosy
Vila Koruna is a must for seafood konoba (inn) serves fish and
lovers and lovers in general regional staples. Pocivalo bb Map
(see pp48, 113). Obala Marsala G2 020 801 131 Closed JanMay KK
Tita 5 Map K2 020 754 999 KK
Kapetanova Kua, Ogigija, Mljet

As you might expect, the
Mali Ston emphasis at thiheZch^dcVcd
Another popular Mali Ston eatery, restaurant, with a large terrace
Kapetanova Kua serves up looking out over the sea, is on
mussels plucked straight from the fish. Polae 17 Map J2 098 606
Malostonski Channel, fish grills 863 Closed OctApr KKK
and Peljeac wine. The squid-ink
risotto is divine. Obala Marsala
Tita 9 Map K2 020 754 264 KKKK Kolona, Cavtat
Kolona charms with its
raised sea-view terrace, grilled
Adio Mare, Korula Town
This popular seafood rest- fish and attentive service.
Innovative dishes, such as raw
aurant in the old town is a lively swordfish drizzled in lemon, have
place to eat on a summer night. crept onto to a largely Dalmatian
Grilled fish is the speciality (see menu. Put Tihe 2 Map L3 020
p48). Svetog Roka 2 Map H1 098 478 787 Closed NovApr KKK
243 845 Closed lunch, NovApr KKK
Amfora, Orebi
This waterfront restaurant Orsan, Zaton
A short drive to the north out
of Dubrovnik brings you to this
serves good-value Dalmatian food: excellent little restaurant. Savour
huge plates of risotto, fish and quality fresh seafood right by the
shellfish, as well as Balkan grills Adriatic on their terrace, which
like evapii (spicy meatballs). is something of a local favourite.
Kneza Domagoja 6 Map H1 020 713 Stikovica 42 Map K2 020 891 267
779 Closed NovApr KK Closed DecMar KKKK
Mlinica Taverna, Orebi

This rustic restaurant set in Konoba Zure, Lumbarda
This rustic, family-run konoba
a former mill has a Dalmatian offers delicious seafood dishes
menu. It tends to fill up with tour try the brodetto (Dalmatian fish
groups in July and August, so try stew), the stewed octopus and
to visit at other times. Joza unja the shellfish risotto. Lumbarda bb
bb Map H1 020 713 886 KK Map H2 023 712 008 KKK

StreetSmart
General Information
100
Planning Your Trip
Top 10 of Dubrovnik & The DalmaTian CoasT

101
Special Concerns
102
Getting to and Around
Dalmatia
103
Security & Health
104
Banking &
Communications
105
Eating, Drinking &
Shopping Tips
106
Dalmatia on a Budget
107
Things to Avoid
108
Accommodation Tips
109
Places to Stay
110117
Streetsmart
An outdoor religious event in Split
General Information
Language
Croatian grammar Time Differences
Croatia is in the
Sanader and the HDZ
(Croatian Democratic
is complex. The key to Central European Time Union) have been in
good pronunciation is to Zone, which operates on power since 2003.
master the letter sounds, GMT plus one hour. For
including the accented ,
, , , and (see
daylight saving, clocks are
put back an hour at the Economy
Agriculture, food
p126). Every letter is end of March and forward production, manufacturing
pronounced, and the an hour in late September. (textiles, timber, metal-
emphasis is almost Croatia is one hour ahead working and electrical),
always on the first of the UK, six to nine chemical industries,
syllable. English, Italian hours ahead of the USA shipping and tourism are
and German are widely and seven to nine hours all vital components of
understood in Dalmatia, behind Australia. the Croatian economy.
but you will find that any Recent years have seen
efforts to speak Croatian
will be appreciated. Tourist Radio
During the tourist
considerable foreign
investment, particularly in
season, Hrvatska Radio the field of construction,
Electricity
and Water
Televizija (HRT) broadcasts
a limited radio news
and Croatia has increased
its exports to the West.
Croatia is on 220V/50 bulletin in English and One black cloud is a high
cycles and standard plugs German. HR2 has an level of unemployment
are of the European two- hourly traffic bulletin, also (around 19%). Croatia is
pin, round-pronged type. in English and German. currently in negotiation to
Bottled mineral water has Check frequencies locally become a member of the
become fashionable in as they vary. European Union.
Dalmatia, but tap water
is usually safe to drink.
Dalmatians claim that the Further Reading
The following books Religion
Recent surveys
water from lakes and are useful sources on suggest that almost 90
streams is clean and free Croatias recent history: per cent of Croats are
of bacteria, but it is Marcus Tanners Croatia: Roman Catholic, just
sensible to purify it. A Nation Forged in War, under 5 per cent are Serb
Slavenka Drakulis Balkan Orthodox, and around
Opening Hours
As a rule of thumb
Express: Fragments from
the Other Side of War
1 per cent are Muslim.
Dalmatians conduct
business from 8am to
and Stipe Mesis The
Demise of Yugoslavia: A Society
Culture
and
4pm Monday to Friday. Political Memoir. Dalmatians are passionate

Banks are, however, open about food and fashion
from 7am to 7pm. Post
offices serve customers Government
Croatia has a multi-
and express forthright
opinions. A strong national
from 7am to 7pm during party parliamentary consciousness reveals
the week and also from system, with separate itself in folkloric traditions,
7am to 1pm on Saturdays. legislative and executive particularly in ilipi (see
Caf-bars generally open functions. The countrys p94) and Korula Town
daily at 7am and close at first democratically (see pp1617). In this
11pm, although some elected president, Stipe Catholic society there
keep later hours. Most Meic, is currently serving are some conservative
restaurants also stay a second term in office; attitudes to divorce and
open until 11pm. Prime Minister Ivo homosexuality.
100 Preceding pages The Stradun, Dubrovnik

Streetsmart
Left Tourist information office Right The beach, where many Croatians head on public holidays
Planning Your Trip

Insurance
A travel insurance
office, though these may
be closed out of season.
250 ml of eau de toilette)
can be taken into Croatia.
policy covering delays, Croatian National Tourist HRK15,000 can also be
cancellations, baggage Board: www.croatia.hr brought into or taken out
loss or damage, illness, of the country. Foreign
accidents and legal costs
is essential. Terms and Passports
and Visas
currency is not restricted,
but sums over HRK40,000
conditions vary between A valid passport or in value must be declared.
policies; winter sports national identity card is
options and expensive
equipment often incur
required to enter Croatia.
Visitors from Australia, Public Holidays
1 Jan, Easter Sunday
an extra premium. New Zealand, Japan, and Monday, 1 May,
North America, South Corpus Christi (May/Jun),
When to Go America and European 22 Jun, 25 Jun, 5 Aug, 8
Dalmatia basks in an countries can usually Oct, 1 Nov, and 25 and
agreeable Mediterranean stay in the country for up 26 Dec are public
climate. Summers are hot to 90 days without a visa. holidays in Dalmatia.
and winters mild. Despite Visitors from Africa need Banks, shops and some
this idyllic weather, the a visa, and should seek restaurants close on
bulk of the regions tourist advice from the Croatian these days. Local holidays
facilities close from the Ministry of Foreign are also observed.
end of October until late Affairs, or an embassy or
April. May and September
are the optimum months
consulate. Croatian
Ministry of Foreign Affairs: Timetables
and Transfers
for a visit; the weather is www.mfa.hr Plan any journey by
good, everything is open, public transport carefully;
but the summer crowds
are absent. Embassies
Consulates
and staff at information desks
are there to help. Ferry
The Croatian Ministry of timetables, in particular,
What to Pack Foreign Affairs website are subject to change, and
If taking a prescription (see above) gives a list of reduced services from
medication, check that you Croatian embassies and October to April. Buses
have a full supply and that consulates overseas, and to meet ferry passengers
you know the pharma- of foreign embassies and are often absent in winter;
ceutical (as opposed consulates on Croatian request that a local travel
to the brand) name. In soil. Most of these are in agency or hotel help
summer, pack sun lotion, Zagreb; the UK also has arrange your transfers.
sunglasses and insect consulates in Split and
repellent; in winter, a
warm coat; and at any
Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik:
Bunieva Poljana 3/1. Map Advance
Reservations
time of year, a waterproof. J6. 020 324 597 Split: In summer, hotels of all
Obala Hrvatskog Narodnog grades fill up fast. Book
Tourist
Information
Preporoda 10/III. Map P2.
021 346 007
as far ahead as possible
for July and August.
Advance information is Buying tickets in advance
available through the
Croatian National Tourist Customs
Goods to the value of
is essential during fes-
tivals (see pp545), and
Boards website and its HRK3,000, 200 cigarettes, recommended for bus
offices abroad. Many 2 litres of liqueur, 2 litres travel. Reservations for
Dalmatian towns, cities of wine, 1 litre of spirits taking your car on a ferry
and villages have a tourist and 60 ml of perfume (or can avoid long queues.
Plastic shoes are a good investment if you are intending to go 101

swimming from rock outcrops (the domain of sea urchins).
Streetsmart
Left Disabled parking sign Right Group travel
Special Concerns
Students
International student
is wise to take some basic
precautions, such as not
under 12s often receive
discounted entrance to
cards dont carry much walking alone in the dark. attractions. Additional
weight in Croatia. A Meetings with strangers beds and cots can be
Hostelling International should be in busy public added to hotel rooms for
card gives discounts at places during the day. a small charge (book in
the Dubrovnik and Zadar advance). Public baby
youth hostels (see p116).
Hostelling International: Senior Citizens
Many seniors visit
changing facilities are
scarce, but disposable
www.hihostels.com Dalmatia. They receive a nappies and baby food
warm welcome, but few are easy to come by.
Disabled Travellers discounts in high season.
In a region where the
key tourist sights are
UK-based Saga Holidays
have a large presence Travelling
with Pets
hundreds of years old, in Croatia, with some The UKs Pet Travel
Dalmatias narrow streets hotels even having areas Scheme allows dogs and
and historic buildings are reserved for their Saga cats to travel to Croatia
not easily accessible to guests. Saga Holidays: and re-enter the UK by
those in wheelchairs. www.saga.co.uk air (Dubrovnik to London
Only the most modern Gatwick with Britannia
hotels and restaurants
have facilities for the Vegetarians
Meat and fish
Airways). Pets must have
been vaccinated against
disabled. Anyone with dominate menus, with rabies and have tested
mobility needs should vegetarian options often negative 6 months later.
contact the Croatian limited to simple salads, They require a passport
National Tourist Board pasta starters, risottos and have to be treated
(see p101) for advice (often mushroom), vege- for ticks and tapeworm
when planning their trip. table accompaniments by a Croatian vet before
and cheese. More choice returning home. Contact
Gay and Lesbian
Travellers
is available to those who
self-cater or picnic at a
Defra for more details.
Defra (UK): 08459 335
Attitudes towards homo- local beauty spot. Most 577. www.defra.gov.uk
sexuality are often far towns and villages have
from enlightened.
Dalmatia does not have
food markets and well-
stocked supermarkets. Working in Croatia
Croatia is not part of
a gay scene to speak of the EU and high levels
and any public displays of
affection between same- Group Travel
In July and August
of unemployment make
it hard for non-Croatians
sex couples may well Dubrovnik can feel to find jobs. Most foreign
affront local people, or overcrowded with tour workers are employed by
solicit negative attention; groups. The Croatian multinationals or work at
the Gay Pride procession National Tourist Office a distance for home-based
in Zagreb in 2002 saw an (see p101) will provide companies. Voluntary
attack by extremists. lists of foreign travel work is available through
operators specializing exchange programmes;
Lone Females
Although some men
in group travel. embassies (see p101)
and the Croatian Heritage
have chauvinist attitudes,
lone female travellers will Travelling
Children
with Foundation are good
sources of information.
usually be treated with Children are welcome Croatian Heritage Foun-
respect. Nonetheless, it almost anywhere and dation: www.matis.hr
102
Streetsmart
Left Domestic ferry Right Sailing
Getting to and Around Dalmatia

By Air
There are direct flights
Autoklub and national
automobile associations Taxis and Buses
Taxis can be booked
to Dalmatia from over can advise on crossing or hailed. Bus stops and
15 European countries, borders by car. Hrvatski stations display timetables
among them the UK, Autoklub: www.hak.hr for local and national bus
Germany, Italy, France services. Bus fares are
and the Netherlands.
Those from outside Cruising
Dubrovnik is firmly on
reasonable, though there
is a charge for each piece
Europe transit through the Mediterranean cruise- of luggage in the hold.
Zagreb or a European ship circuit. The likes of
airport. Croatia Airlines:
www.croatiaairlines.hr
Royal Caribbean regularly
drop anchor here, as do Car Rental
To hire a car you must
smaller ships, on their be at least 21, have held
Airports way to or from Venice, a full licence for 2 years,
Dalmatia has three Istria and Montenegro. and have a passport and
international airports, Split, Royal Caribbean: www. credit card. National auto-
Dubrovnik and Zadar. royalcaribbean.com JEM mobile clubs can advise
Split Airport: Map D5. 021 Trade: www.croatia-istria. on whether you need
203 555. www.split-airport. com Cruise Adriatic: an International Driving
hr Dubrovnik Airport: Map www.cruiseadriatic.com Permit (most people
L3. 020 773 377. www. dont). Check terms and
airport-dubrovnik.hr Zadar
Airport: Map B3. 023 205 Sailing
Dalmatia is emerging
conditions carefully. Sixt
is a reputable hire
800. www.zadar-airport.hr as something of a Mecca company. Sixt: 01 665
for sailors. With numerous 1599. www.sixt.com
By Boat islands and islets, hidden
Jadrolinija car ferries
operate between Italy
coves, seemingly endless
swathes of unspoiled and Rules of the Road
The Croatian speed
and Dalmatia (Ancona dramatic coastline, and limits are: 50 kmph (30
Split and BariDubrovnik). relatively calm seas, it is mph) in towns, 80 kmph
Adriatica, SEM Marina easy to understand why (50 mph) outside towns,
and SNAV have passenger (see pp467). 100 kmph (60 mph) on
services between Ancona highways and 130 kmph
and Split. SNAV also runs
an AnconaZadar route. Domestic
Services
Ferry (80 mph) on motorways.
It is compulsory to wear
SEM Marina and Azzura Jadrolinija runs an array seat belts and to have
Line both link Bari and of ferries to Dalmatias your headlights on. Note
Dubrovnik. Jadrolinija: islands, with the bulk that there is now a policy
www.jadrolinija.hr SEM departing from Split, of zero tolerance towards
Marina: www.sem-marina. ibenik and Zadar. Tickets drink-driving; it is illegal
hr Adriatica: www. must be purchased prior to have a blood-alcohol
adriatica.it SNAV: www. to boarding, from ticket level in excess of 0 mg
snav.com Azzura Line: kiosks, Jadrolinija offices per 100 ml. It is illegal to
www.azzurraline.com or ferry terminals. Foot talk on a mobile phone
passengers can usually while driving. The police
By Road
Routes from Western
just turn up, but advance
reservations for vehicles
must be informed of road
accidents, and hazard
Europe traverse Slovenia. are recommended in July warning triangles must
Access from Central and August. SEM Marina be used at breakdowns.
and Eastern Europe is run catamaran services (For emergency phone
via Hungary. The Hrvatski from Split. numbers, see p104).
Croatia Airlines shuttle buses run between the airports and the city 103
centres, and may be used by passengers of other airlines as well.
Streetsmart
Left Hospital Right Croatian policeman
Security and Health

Reciprocal
Agreements
Health
Health Centres
and Hospitals
own car, contact your
automobile association
Most European countries, All Dalmatias main towns to check how you can
including the UK and and cities have either a arrange international
Ireland, have reciprocal health centre or a hospital breakdown cover.
health agreements with where you will be able to
Croatia. Those covered
by these agreements
see a doctor. The quality
of care is parallel to that Documentation
The Croatian police
can get free emergency given in many Western are entitled to ask you to
medical care in Croatia, European countries, with produce an identity card
but will have to pay for clean and well-equipped or passport at any time.
other consultations and facilities and highly- You must also show one
prescription charges. As trained staff. of these forms of ID when
Croatia is not in the EU, checking into accommo-
you do not need an EHIC.
Pharmacies
Centrally located
dation. When driving, you
must have the correct
Travel Insurance
It is unwise to rely on
pharmacies (ljekarna)
are found in most cities,
documentation with you,
including your drivers
reciprocal health agree- towns and resorts. In licence, in case the police
ments. Comprehensive rural areas you may have want to inspect it. Tourists
travel insurance (see to travel some way to are rarely stopped, but
p101) can save huge sums locate one. Opening hours you can be fined for failing
if you become ill or are are usually from 8am to to produce documents.
involved in an accident. 8pm Monday to Friday
and from 8am to 2pm on
Landmines
Bites and Stings
Stray animals may
Saturdays. Pharmacists
often speak English and
Most of Dalmatia has
for years been clear of
have rabies and should for minor ailments they landmines laid in the war
not be petted. The spines can suggest suitable non- of the early 1990s, but
of sea urchins on rocky prescription medicines. they do still exist. Around
shorelines can cause Skradin, Krka National
infection, but you can
prevent problems by Crime
Crime rates are lower
Park and the border area
with Bosnia, fields and
wearing shoes. Ticks in Croatia than in most even whole villages still
found in forests between European countries, with have signs warning of
April and August can carry serious crimes against landmines. Walkers
tick-borne encephalitis or tourists particularly rare. heading off the beaten
Lyme disease; cover up Tourists do, however, fall track should use a recent
and wear insect repellent. prey to pickpockets. Take map, stick to trails and
In summer, the regions a sensible approach to seek local advice about
mosquitoes may also your personal safety and the possibility of mines.
give you nasty bites. that of your valuables. If
you become the victim Emergency
Sun Precautions
Sunstroke, sunburn
of a crime, contact the
police immediately.
Phone Numbers
or dehydration can spoil Police 92
a holiday. You can protect
yourself by wearing Vehicle Breakdown
Rental cars in Croatia
Fire 93
Ambulance 94
sunscreen with a high usually have emergency Breakdown: 987
SPF and a sunhat, and by breakdown cover. If you Maritime rescue: 9155
drinking plenty of water. are planning to take your
104 English is widely spoken in Croatia, as are German and Italian.

Streetsmart
Left ATM Middle Internet caf Right Post office
Banking and Communications

Currency
Dalmatias official
p106). Before travelling,
check with your issuer
Europe and two weeks
to reach the USA. Normal
currency is the Croatian for hidden charges and opening hours are 7am
kuna (kn or HRK). There note the international to 7pm Monday to Friday,
are 100 lipa to the kuna, number for reporting a 7am to 1pm on Saturday.
though the former are lost or stolen card. Chip- Branches in small towns
effectively obsolete. and-pin technology is often close earlier.
Prices are often quoted in increasingly common.
euros and kuna, with both
Internet
accepted. Exchange rates
are often more favourable Public Phones
Direct calls can be
Internet cafs have
sprung up all over
for kuna than euros. made to local, national Dalmatia. Coin-operated
and international numbers terminals are common in
Exchange
Banks, post offices,
using any public phone.
Most only work with a
hotel lobbies. Wireless
technology is arriving,
bureaux de change, travel phone card, which can be with hotspots appearing
agencies and hotels all bought at a post office or in a growing number of
offer exchange services, from a tobacco kiosk in hotels and cafs; VIP
with the euro being the denominations of 25 to runs the biggest network.
most easily converted 500 units. For local calls, VIP: www.vipnet.hr
currency. Many will also omit the three-digit area
readily exchange US
dollars and sterling for
code. The country code
for Croatia is 385. Television
State-owned Hrvatska
kuna. Most banks and Radio Televizija (HRT)
post offices also change
travellers cheques. Banks Mobile Phones
Mobile phone calls
broadcasts on HRT1 and
HRT2. Two privately run
offer the best deal for made within Croatia are channels Nova TV and
currency exchange. charged at local mobile RTL have recently gone
rates, but the cost of on air. Non-sub scription
Cash Machines
Cities, towns and
incoming and outgoing
international calls is
satellite channels, mainly
in German or Italian, are
larger villages have ATMs. high. Phone calls made also widely available.
You can use credit and from Croatian numbers Upmarket hotels will
debit cards to withdraw to mobiles on global usually have international
money at an ATM, and networks also incur channels, including BBC
will pay commission or a expensive international World and CNN.
set fee each time you do charges. Those visiting
so. ATMs are few and far
between in rural locations
for a long time should
consider purchasing a Newspapers
Croatian dailies include
and on smaller islands. Croatian SIM card. Slobodna Dalmacija,
Vecernji list, Jutarnji list,
Credit Cards
and Debit Cards Post Offices
At larger post offices
Vjesnik and Hina News
Line (the latter in English).
American Express, Diners you can post mail, send Foreign-language dailies
Club, MasterCard, Visa, faxes, buy telephone include The Guardian
Maestro and Cirrus are cards, exchange currency, Europe and International
widely accepted in shops, withdraw cash using a Herald Tribune, but they
restaurants and hotels, as credit card and arrange are often too out-of-date to
well as at ATMs, although Western Union money justify the inflated prices.
its wise to keep some transfers. Airmail takes Hina News Line: www.
spare cash on you (see around five days to reach hina.hr
If you are planning to pay by credit card, make sure that you 105
know your chip-and-pin number.
Streetsmart
Left Croatian wines Right Duty-free shopping
Eating, Drinking & Shopping Tips

Tax refunds
Croatian sales tax,
heading to the beach,
waterfront or picnic spot
and Rukatac), the
Peljeac Peninsula (Sveta
at the rate of 22 per cent, of your choice. Benches Ana), Vis (Vugava) and
is included in the price of are common in beauty Hvar (Zlatan Otok and
every item. Non-Croatians spots, but there are few Zavala). Recommended
who spend over 500kn in organized picnic facilities. reds come from the
a single transaction in a Those planning regular Peljeac Peninsula
shop displaying a Tax picnics might like to (Dinga, Plavac, Plavac
Free Shopping sign can invest in a cooler picnic Mali and Postup), Konavle
claim tax back through the backpack and a small rug (Merlot and Cabernet
Global Refund scheme. before leaving home. Sauvignon) and Hvar
Customers need to obtain (Zlatan Plavac). Northern
a Global Refund Cheque
at the time of purchase, Types of
Restaurant
Dalmatian Babi and
Central Dalmatian Katelet
and ensure that they take Eateries are traditionally are other popular red
this, the original receipt categorized as restoran wines. You can cut your
and the goods to the (restaurant), konoba costs by buying direct
refund desk at the airport. (taverna) or gostiona (inn). from the vineyard.
www.globalrefund.com Differences can be hard to
define. Broadly speaking,
Cash Discounts
Keep Spare Cash
ATMs, banks, post
there is a descending
degree of formality and
Some shops, hotels
and restaurants offer
offices and currency a corresponding fall in discounts of 10 to 20 per
exchange bureaus are price from restoran down cent if you pay in cash.
scarce in rural areas to gostiona. In practice,
and smaller villages in
Dalmatia. Although credit
the distinction is blurred.
Other places to eat Duty-free
Croatia is not in the
cards and debit cards are include the slastiarnica, EU, so foreigners can
becoming more widely which sells cakes and buy a wide range of duty-
accepted, they are not pastries, and ice-cream free items at its airports.
taken everywhere, so (sladoled) parlours. Gifts, alcohol, tobacco,
keep enough Croatian perfumes, confectionery,
currency with you to
cover accommodation, Opening Hours
As a rule of thumb,
jewellery and leather
goods are available.
meals, petrol and other shops open from 8am Prices are competitive,
costs for at least a day. to 9pm Monday to Friday but it is often cheaper to
and 8am to 1pm or 2pm buy wine and foodstuffs
Happy Hours
In tourist areas, drinks
on Saturdays. In tourist
centres, trading hours
in local shops.
promotions offering
significantly discounted
are longer, especially in
the high season. Smaller Tipping
Service is normally
prices are common. shops may take an included in the price of a
Times vary, so check extended lunch hour. meal, but it is customary
local advertisements. to round the bill up to the
Picnics Wine
Some of Croatias
nearest 10kn, and to leave
an additional tip of 10 to
Stock up on tasty best wine comes from 15 per cent if service has
fare from food markets, Dalmatia. Look out for been exceptionally good,
supermarkets or directly dry white wines from especially in tourist areas.
from local producers Konavle (Maratina and Taxi drivers appreciate,
(look out for signs), before Ragusa), Korula (Poip but do not expect, a tip.
106 If you are intending to reclaim the sales tax on items you have
purchased in Croatia, dont open them until you have done so.
Streetsmart
Left Multi-lingual accommodation sign Right Food market
Dalmatia on a Budget
Charter Flights
In season, there are
as additional beds can
often be added at little
spirits and olive oil, which
make good gifts. Try them
charter flights from all extra cost. Touts who also for clothing, leather
over Europe to Dalmatia. solicit for guests at bus goods or a tasty snack.
A local travel agent will and ferry terminals offer
be able to give details. cheap private rooms;
before agreeing, always Transport
Long-distance bus
Budget Flights
There are currently
check the location. Book
private accommodation
fares and foot passenger
rates on boats are both
no budget airlines flying for three days or more, reasonable. For families
direct to Croatia. Indirect as a 30 per cent surcharge and larger groups, the
options include flying from is often levied for shorter convenience of hiring
London Stansted to Bari stays. Local travel agents a car (see p103) may
or Ancona with Ryanair, can also arrange affordable outweigh the savings to
then travelling on to Split, rooms or apartments. be made after purchasing
Hvar or Dubrovnik by ferry multiple tickets. On local
or catamaran (see p103).
You can travel overland to Visit out of Season
Most hotels operate
bus services buy tickets
in advance as this is often
Dalmatia from Ljubljana three seasonal price- cheaper than obtaining
(Slovenia) and Trieste bands: June to September them from the driver.
(Italy), but journey times are the peak months, and
are long (about 16 hours).
Check the logistics and
so the most expensive;
in April, May and October, Internal Flights
Flying from the
cost of transfer before the rates are slightly capital Zagreb to Split,
booking budget flights on reduced; in November Dubrovnik, Zadar or (in
this basis. WhichBudget and March, prices can the peak season only)
has the details of most be significantly cheaper, the island of Bra saves
European budget airline even in Dubrovnik. valuable time. Once in
routes. www.ryanair.com Croatia, foreigners can
www.whichbudget.com
Food
Using self-catering
book Croatia Airlines
flights at their offices at
Packages
The Croatian National
accommodation equipped
with a fridge and cooker
discounted local rates.
www.croatiaairlines.hr
Tourist Office can provide is one way to save money
a list of travel agents that
organize package holidays
on food. Many camp sites
also have electrical points, Sightseeing
Dalmatia offers plenty
in Dalmatia. A package where appliances can be of free activities: visiting
can often be cheaper than plugged in. Produce from churches, exploring the
standard room rates and local shops and markets narrow lanes of the old
flight costs, especially if is generally cheaper than towns, walking and
booked at the last minute. that in supermarkets. swimming (from most
Croatian National Tourist Many restaurants in the beaches). Galleries
Office: www.croatia.hr region are good value. exhibiting the work of
Croatian and international
Accommodation
To secure the best Markets
As well as cheap fresh
artists also welcome
visitors without charge.
deals, book well ahead fruit, vegetables, fish and There is usually a nominal
and compare rates on other groceries, markets fee to visit museums,
the Internet with quotes in tourist areas often sell with discounts given for
taken over the telephone. some souvenirs and children and family tickets
Share a room if possible, foodstuffs such as honey, sometimes available.
107
Streetsmart
Left Photographic restaurant menus Right Old-town driving
Things to Avoid
Cruise
Crowds
Ship recipe for traffic jams
and accidents. A new
neighbours, particularly
Slovenian and Serbian.
Dubrovnik and Split can motorway linking Zadar, Although they may
be overrun when a cruise ibenik and Split to understand it, Croatians
ship (or two) docks and Zagreb, and the widening do not appreciate people
its passengers come of the Adriatic Highway using Slovene or Serb
ashore, usually in the itself, are improving the vocabulary; for instance,
afternoon. To avoid situation, but it remains a be careful not to confuse
trailing around attractions dangerous and busy road. Croatian molim (please)
after large tour groups, or with Slovenian prosim.
struggling to get a seat in
Driving in
Old Towns
a restaurant, spend your
afternoons relaxing in Large sections of the Over-exposure
to the Sun
your hotel, on the beach regions old towns are Cooling sea breezes
or exploring sights pedestrianized and if you and mountain winds can
beyond the city centre. try, like some locals, to mask the power of the
At night, when the cruise drive through them you sun. Serious sunburn will
ships have left, a much may get stuck behind need medical treatment
quieter old town awaits. parked cars, or find and can ruin your trip, so
yourself at a dead end take sensible precautions
Tourist
Restaurants
that it is hard to reverse
out of. It is much easier
at all times (see p104).
Where possible, sit in the
Beware of restaurants to use the car parks shade or under a parasol.
with photographic menus located just outside the
and staff soliciting your
custom both warning
old towns and walk in.
Visiting Museums
on Mondays
signs that local people
dont eat there. Expecting Regional Politics
In a region that was
Many museums are open
seven days a week. Those
your patronage only once, badly hit by war during that do close will usually
such establishments will the early 1990s, it is not do so on a Monday.
often serve up bland and surprising that many
lacklustre food. Dalmatians
rarely eat out, except
Dalmatians still feel
passionately about this Schoolchildren
In April schoolchildren
when on business and subject. Entering into from all over Croatia seem
for special occasions: idle conversation about to converge on the tourist
local accents are the sign peoples experiences of centres, with Dubrovnik
of a good restaurant. the war can be seen as being the hot favourite.
prying. Debating the They are usually well
Adriatic Highway
The main road that
rights and wrongs of the
conflict wont win you
behaved, but they can
take up all the space in a
runs along the length friends either. However, museum or church, and
of the Adriatic coast, genuine interest in what are hard to keep out of
the Adriatic Highway took place here will often your photographs.
(Jadranska Magistrala), elicit illuminating, even
can be a nightmare to
drive on between June
harrowing, stories.
Pickpockets
While crime rates in
and September. Coaches,
freight vehicles, slow- Language Faux Pas
To the untrained ear
Dalmatia are low (see
p104), petty theft is on
driving tourists and locals the Croatian language the rise. Where possible
in a hurry, combined with sounds very similar to keep valuables in inside
a single lane road, are a the Slavic tongues of its or zipped pockets.
108
Streetsmart
View from the Excelsior, Dubrovnik (see p110)
Accommodation Tips
Price and Location
Annoyingly, the closer
A renovation programme
is gradually bringing all
p11617). Most hotels
will provide a babys cot
it is to the Old Town, the Dalmatian hotels up to for a small daily charge.
more expensive the room. 3-star standard or above.
A good compromise is to
stay outside the centre Lighthouses Peak Season
Hotels, apartments,
where transport links are For a break with rooms and camp sites
good (as in Split and a difference consider are in high demand, and
Dubrovnik) and splash staying in one of seven at their most expensive
out on old-town rooms historic stone lighthouses from June to September
the rest of the time. located on Dalmatias (see p107); some places
most remote islands hike up their prices
Aa View
Room with and islets (see p115).
Choosing the lighthouse
even further in July
and August. It is easier,
Dalmatia is brimming carefully can save on the and cheaper, to secure
with hotels that overlook cost of private transfers, accommodation without
the sea. Rooms with a with Veli Rat (Dugi Otok), a reservation in April and
sea view come at a small Struga (Lastovo) and Sv October. From November
extra cost, but when Petar (on the mainland to March rates are at
the choice is between near Makarska) accessible their lowest, but many
looking out onto the sea by public transport or car. hotels, and most camp
or car park, it is worth Renting is usually by the sites, are closed.
finding the extra funds. week, but between mid-
Specify at the time of
booking that you want a
September and early May
you may be able to book Internet Booking
The Internet can be a
sea view, to avoid being two-day stays. Contact useful tool when choosing
disappointed on arrival. Plovput for more details. accommodation, allowing
www.plovput.hr you to view photographs,
Beware of Noise read reviews submitted
At the height of the
tourist season hotels Rural Hotels
The agritourism
by previous guests and
compare prices, before
located next to cafs concept of farm holidays making a booking. Some
and bars can suddenly is slowly emerging here. hotels and one-stop
become noisy, when Villagers in the likes of booking sites discount
stereos pump out tunes ibenik-Knin county, close rates, particularly when
until the small hours. If to Krka National Park, are there is late availability.
you are uncertain about opening their doors to
the hotels location ask
about possible distur-
tourists. Properties are
usually simple and clean, Breakfast,
Half-board and
bances before booking. with many retaining Full-board
rustic elements. Prices Most hotel rates include
Grading Systems
Croatian hotels are
are roughly equivalent to
that of a private room in
breakfast. Even upmarket
hotels often offer half-
classified from basic a coastal town or city. board, but full-board is
1-star up to luxurious rarer. Dalmatia has an
5-star. In 1- and 2-star
hotels, some rooms may Children
Self-contained apart-
abundance of fine and
inexpensive eateries,
have shared bathrooms. ments arranged through so unless budget is your
This grading system can local and national travel prime concern think
also broadly be applied to agencies can be good twice about committing
private accommodation. value for families (see to dining in the hotel.
109
Streetsmart
Left Swimming pool at the Argentina Right Bedroom at the Dubrovnik President
Dubrovnik Hotels
Excelsior
Easily the finest hotel
services that you would
expect from this chain
offer creature comforts
like slippers and bath
in Dubrovnik in the years are complemented by robes. Masarykov Put 6
since the war of the 90s, a warm Mediterranean Map L4 020 433 580
the Excelsior keeps ahead decor and views of the www.hotelimaestral.com
of its rivals by constantly Old City. Marijana KKKKK
upgrading its facilities. The Blazica 2 Map G5 020
setting is superb too, with
stunning Old City views
320 320 www.hilton.com
KKKKK Kompas
Slated for a major
from many of the rooms. refit designed to bring it
Frana Supila 12 Map
M5 020 353 353 www. Dubrovnik
A small hotel, with
up to 4-star standard, for
now Kompas is a cheaper
hotel-excelsior.hr KKKKK just 28 clean and simply option located above
furnished rooms (4 of Uvala Bay beach and
Dubrovnik Palace
A renovation in 2004
them suites), Dubrovnik
is a welcome change
with views of the sea.
The balconied rooms will
brought luxury and a from the larger hotels offer greater comfort in
first-rate spa to this large that dominate the Lapad the future. etalite
hotel on the Lapad Peninsula. It has a nice Kralja Zvonimira 56 Map
Peninsula. All bedrooms caf-bar. etalite Kralja L4 020 352 000 www.
have balconies and sea Zvonimira bb Map L4 hotel-kompas.hr KKK
views. Leisure facilities 020 435 030 www.
include indoor and outdoor
pools. Masarykov Put 20
hoteldubrovnik.hr KK
Dubrovnik
President
Map K4 020 430 000
www.dubrovnikpalace.hr Bellevue
Just 15 minutes walk
This large, concrete hotel
is redeemed by the fact
KKKKK from the Old City, this that all its well-equipped
appealing 2-star hotel balconied rooms are sea-
Argentina overlooks the attractive facing and offer views
Recently restored to Miramare Bay. Sea-view of the Elafiti Islands. A
its full 5-star glory, the rooms with balconies are private beach, indoor pool,
Argentina is in the district worth the extra 11. It has sports facilities and its
of Ploe (just east of the a private beach and is proximity to Copacabana
gate of the same name). soon to have a refurbish- Beach (see p66) are also
Choose a room in the ment that will transform plus points. Iva Dulia
main hotel or in one of it into a luxurious 5-star 39 Map K4 020 441 100
four villas. The sea-view hotel. Pera ingrije 7 www.babinkuk.com KKKK
rooms enjoy fabulous Map L4 020 413 306
views of the Old City.
Frana Supila 14 Map
www.hotel-bellevue.hr
No air con KK Lero
The good-value Lero
M5 020 440 555 www. is located 15 minutes
gva.hr KKKKK
Uvala
This stylish Lapad
walk from the Old City.
Close to the beach, it has
Hilton Imperial
The former Imperial
hotel has indoor and out-
door pools, a wellness
clean, simply decorated
rooms (many with sea
Hotel, just outside the centre, private parking views) with white walls
Pile Gate, reopened its and conference facilities. and bedding. The guest
doors after a long wait The 51 rooms are mini- parking is a useful bonus.
in 2005, as the Hilton malist, with white walls Put Iva Vojnovia 14
Imperial. A fitness centre, and beige soft furnishings. Map L4 020 341 333
indoor pool and all the Some are sea-facing; all www.hotel-lero.hr KK
110 For the Lapad Peninsula See p66; for more hotels in Dubrovnik
See p114
Price Categories
For a standard K under 450kn
double room per KK 450900kn
night (with breakfast KKK 9001,350kn
if included), taxes KKKK 1,3501,800kn
and extra charges. KKKKK over 1,800kn
Streetsmart
Jadran, ibenik
Northern Dalmatian Hotels

Biser, Pag
The small, family-run
rooms to its existing
3-star accommodation.
serves food. There is also
an apartment annex.
Biser is 2 km (1 mile) from An attractive terrace Jurjevgradska 49 Map
the centre of Pag Town. restaurant serving good C4 022 446 331 www.
Some of its 24 rooms food adds to the hotels themovieresort.com
have stunning views over charm. Splash out on Closed JanApr KKK
Pag Bay and the Velebit one of the new Villa Vicko
Mountains. With a car
park, an on-site restaurant,
suites, with balconies
overlooking the sea and Jadran, ibenik
ibeniks only
tennis courts and a the Paklenica mountains. centrally located hotel
private beach in a pleasant Joe Dokoze 20 Map has recently been given
cove, the Biser is ideal B2 023 369 304 www. a make over to provide
for families. Antuna hotel-vicko.hr KKK guests with light, modern
Gustava Matoa 8 Map and comfortable rooms.
A2 023 611 333 www.
hotel-biser.com KK Kolovare, Zadar
This business-oriented
A pleasant pavement
caf, mini-bars, private
hotel has an outdoor pool car parking and sea-
Pagus, Pag
This low-rise resort-
and modern rooms, and
is close to the beach.
facing rooms also stand
in its favour. Doktora
style hotel has a superb Just 10 minutes walk Franje Tumana 52 Map
location just northwest of from Zadars old town, C4 022 212 644 www.
Pag Town. Simple rooms its location is hard to rivijera.hr KK
have balconies, with the beat, but prices are on
best boasting sea views.
Ante Starevia 1 Map
the high side for a 3-star
hotel. Boe Periia 14 Panorama, ibenik
As its name suggests,
A2 023 611 310 www. Map B3 023 203 200 one of the main reasons
coning.hr Closed mid- www.hotel-kolovare-zadar. to stay here is for the
OctApr KK htnet.hr KKK view, with some south-
facing rooms overlooking
Alan, Starigrad-
Paklenica Skradinski
Skradin
Buk, the ibenik archipelago
and the citys old town.
Housed in an unappealing This attractive hotel has Recently refurbished.
tower block, the Alan is a 28 simple, comfortable ibenski Most bb Map
blot on the landscape, but rooms in which yellow C4 022 213 397 www.
its rooms (which sleep up bedding and prints add a hotel-panorama.hr KK
to six) were upgraded to splash of colour. In-room
3-star standard in 2003.
A camp site, restaurant,
facilities include mini-bars,
satellite TV and Internet Villa Koa,
Primoten
caf, outdoor pool, and points. All rooms have The 13 individually styled
its proximity to the beach balconies. Skradin Map units at this aparthotel
attract families. Dr C4 022 771 771 www. vary in size, sleeping
Fanje Tumana 14 Map skradinskibuk.hr KK between two and eight.
B2 023 369 236 www. Most have balconies and
hotel-alan.hr Closed Nov
mid-Mar KK Movie Resort
Hotel, Tribunj
sea views; some have
small kitchenettes. Break-
Guests staying in the fast and air conditioning
Vicko, Starigrad-
Paklenica
28 well-equipped rooms,
named after film stars,
are charged on top of the
room rate. Josip Bana
This welcoming family- have access to a private Jelaia 4 Map C4 022
run hotel has recently beach and the British- 570 365 www.villa-kosa.
added 4-star seaside style Movie Pub, which htnet.hr KK
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit 111

cards and have ensuite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Streetsmart
Left Slavija, Split Right Paula, Vis Town
Central Dalmatian Hotels

Slavija, Split
A serious injection of
waterfront, others onto
the attractive Austro-
have views to the sea.
Petra Hektrovica 2 Map
cash has transformed a Hungarian influenced D6 021 711 362 www.
formerly grungy dive into square. The caf spills paula-hotel.t-com.hr KKK
this clean and welcoming out onto Trg Republike
3-star hotel. Set inside
Diocletians palace, it has
and is a pleasant place to
while away an hour or so. Amfora, Hvar Town
Hvars largest hotel
simply furnished en-suite Bana Jelaia 2 Map is staggering in its scale.
rooms. If you can afford N2 021 345 644 www. Welcoming staff, pleasant
it, splash out on suite 401, hotel-bellevue-split.hr No bedrooms, many with
with its separate sitting air con KK views of the Pakleni
area. Buvinina 2 Map Islands (see p84), and
P2 021 323 840 www.
hotelslavija.com KK Fontana, Trogir
This old-town hotel
diverse sports facilities,
including a large indoor
offers large, if slightly old- pool, are among its plus
Park, Split
Traditionally regarded
fashioned, rooms. Those
with a Jacuzzi are worth
points. It is the only hotel
in Hvar Town open year
as Splits best hotel, the the extra charge and the round. Dolac bb Map
Park is just set back from hotels well-equipped D6 021 741 202 www.
the waterfront at Bavice. apartment suits families. suncanihvar.hr KK
It boasts comfortable Obrov 1 Map D5 021
modern rooms, friendly
staff and a decent rest-
885 744 www.fontana-
commerce.htnet.hr KK Palace, Hvar Town
This well-equipped 3-
aurant with a palm-fringed star hotel is housed in a
Sikaa, iovo
terrace looking out to sea.
Hatzov Perivoj 3 Map Vila
There are 10 bright,
Venetian-style villa in the
centre of Hvar Town. From
Q6 021 406 400 www. up-to-date rooms and the terrace with its stone-
hotelpark-split.hr KKK suites at this family-run carved balustrade you can
boutique hotel. Some watch the bustle of daily
Split, Split
Located 40 minutes
offer stunning views of
Trogirs old town, while
life, and yachts anchoring
in the harbour. Trg Sv
walk from the old town, others have wooden Stjepana bb Map D6 021
the position of the Split beams. All rooms have 741 906 www.suncani hvar.
deters some guests, mini-bars and Internet hr Closed Novmid-Apr
though the stroll around connections and the No air con KK
the bay is pleasant and executive double has
its rooms are light and
spacious. Book a room
a Jacuzzi. Obala Kralja
Zvonimira 13 Map D5 Slavija, Hvar Town
In an attractive stone
with a balcony and sea 021 881 223 www. building overlooking Hvar
view. The hotel has its vila-sikaa-r.com KK Towns marina, the 4-star
own beach, outdoor pool Slavija has simple, com-
and parking. Put
Trstenika 19 off map Paula, Vis Town
The historic Kut area
fortable accommodation.
Try to bag a sea-facing
021 303 111 www. of Vis Town is the setting room with a balcony. A
hotelsplit.hr KKK for this small, family- word of warning: adjacent
owned hotel. Its stone to a lively bar, the hotel
Bellevue, Split
The simple rooms at
faade, large guest
rooms, tranquil location
is not for light sleepers.
Riva Map D6 021 741
the Bellevue are light and and excellent seafood 820 www.suncanihvar.hr
of a good size. Some have restaurant are a winning No air con Closed Nov
views out towards Splits combination. Some rooms mid-Apr KKKK
112 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

cards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Liburna, Korula Town
Southern Dalmatian Hotels

Liburna,
Korula Town
all over Croatia to enjoy
the fine seafood, stunning
and fluffy bathrobes.
Frankopanska 10 Map
Winning features of this scenery and tranquillity. L3 020 475 555 www.
pleasant 3-star hotel Peljeki Put Map K2 hoteli-croatia.hr KKKK
include its outdoor pool, 020 754 999 www.
tennis courts, mini-golf,
water sports, bicycle
vila-koruna.hr KK
Villa
Cavtat
Kvaternik,
hire and car park. The

ten per cent surcharge Bellevue, Orebi
An unmistakable red
This luxurious boutique
hotel is housed in a 15th-
for a room with views faade adorns this relaxed century stone building at
of the old town, pool and 2-star resort hotel. Just the heart of Cavtats old
terrace is well worth it. northwest of the town town. It has 6 rooms with
etalite Frana Krinia centre, it is shaded by wooden floors and bright,
102 Map H1 020 726 pines and close to a modern soft furnishings.
006 www.korcula-hotels. pebble beach. There is In-room facilities include
com No air con KKK an annexe and apartment Internet connections. Try
block. Most rooms have to get a room with a view
Korula,
Korula Town
sea views; try to book one
with a balcony. Sveti
of the bay. Kvaternikova
3 Map L3 020 479 800
Korula Towns most Kria 104 Map H1 020 www.dub-iz.hr KKK
central hotel occupies 713 148 www.orebic-htp.
an old building with a
charming terrace over-
hr No air con K
Monastery, Cavtat
The Australian owners
looking the west harbour.
Rooms are reasonable, Castel
Orebi
Antonia, of the Villa Kvaternik also
have rooms in the towns
not outstanding. Riva This welcoming villa, built former monastery, located
Map H1 020 711 078 in a slightly kitsch castle right on the waterfront.
marketing@htp-korcula.hr style, luxuriates amid Single, twin, double and
No air con KKK lush vegetation on the triple rooms are available.
Peljeac Peninsula, with Breakfast is served at the
Ostrea, Mali Ston
Framed by the sea
dramatic land and sea
views from its terraces
Kvaternik, and guests may
use the hotels facililties.
and the Peljeac hills, the and balconies. There are Kvaternikova 3 Map L3
Ostrea is an attractive 19 rooms and apartments, 020 479 800 www.
small hotel in the former bar and restaurant. dub-iz.hr No air con KK
home of its proprietors, Potup, Peljeac Peninsula
the Kralj family. Modern
art adorns plain walls in
Map H1 020 713 464
www.villa-antonio.de KK Villa Neretva,
Metkovi
the tasteful rooms and Right at the heart of the
suite. Ante Starevia 9
Map K2 020 754 555 Croatia, Cavtat
Everything you
Neretva Delta (see p90),
this waterfront restaurant
www.ostrea.hr KK would expect to find at with rooms provides clean
a colossal 5-star resort and comfortable accom-
Vila Koruna,
Mali Ston
hotel is available at the
Croatia: a fitness centre,
modation, and has a well-
regarded kitchen. It is a
This family-run restaurant sports facilities galore, a good base for exploring
with rooms is set on the private beach, and indoor, this extraordinary water-
shore of the Malo Stonski outdoor and childrens scape, and runs boat tours
Channel. Stressed city- pools. All rooms are large for guests. Map J1 020
dwellers and amorous and have balconies (many 672 200 www.restaurant-
couples flock here from with sea views), baths villa-neretva.hr K
For more places to stay in Central and Southern Dalmatia 113

See pp11415
Streetsmart
Left Peristil, Split Right Villa Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik
Characterful Hotels
Pui Palace,
Dubrovnik
luxurious retreat. Its
comfortable rooms have
and rooms with views
across to the island of
Classical elegance and balconies with views of Hvar all add to its charm.
history pervade every the sea and Dubrovnik. David 11a Map E5
aspect of this refurbished The boat shuttle service 021 640 888 www.
Renaissance palace. Be into the Old Harbour hotel-ivan.com KKK
the envy of everyone in adds that extra element
Dubrovnik by staying in
the only luxury hotel
of romance. Vlaha
Bukovca 6 Map M5 Palaa Dekovi,
Puia, Bra
within the Old City walls. 020 422 933 www. Tucked away on Bras
Od Pua 1 Map J5 villa-dubrovnik.hr KKKKK northern shore is one of
020 326 200 www.the the regions most upscale
pucicpalace.com KKKKK
Stari Grad Hotel,
Dubrovnik
establishments. Housed
in a former 15th-century
Villa Orsula,
Dubrovnik
The cheaper of the two
hotels in the Old City,
palace, this intimate hotel
has moorings for yachts,
This palatial waterfront this intimate, 8-roomed a restaurant serving
villa is the choice of the establishment is tucked traditional meals and
discerning traveller. In a away in a narrow street an attractive courtyard
separate building, the villa just off the Stradun. The and garden. Map E5
is more intimate than highlight here is the roof 021 778 240 www.
the rest of the Argentina terrace, which provides palaca-deskovic.com KKK
Hotel (see p110) and a cut prime views of the his-
above most Dubrovnik
accommodation. Some
toric centre and is a great
spot for people-watching. Peristil, Split
The latest addition
rooms have balconies Od Sigurate 4 Map H5 to Splits hotel scene,the
overlooking the Old City 020 322 244 www. Peristil has 12 individually
and all have an elegant hotelstarigrad.com KKKK styled rooms at the heart
classical decor. Frana of Diocletians Palace. The
Supila 14 Map M5 020
440 555 www.gva.hr President, Zadar
Elegance and good
decor is light and elegant
throughout, while friendly
KKKKK service are the order of staff provide the finishing
the day at this boutique touch. Book room 304, or
Villa Wolff,
Dubrovnik
hotel located northwest
of Zadars old town in
one overlooking the Peri-
style (see p22). Poljana
This 6-room boutique Borik. Dark woods and Kraljice Jelene 5 Map Q2
hotel offers pleasant hues of beige and brown 021 329 070 www.
rooms, attentive service lend a classical feel to hotelperistil.com KK
and a restaurant with the well-equipped rooms.
sea views, as well as a
wonderfully lush garden.
A 45-minute coastal walk
leads to the old town. Adriana, Split
Its prime waterfront
Nika I Meda Puia 1 Desnice 16 Map B3 location on the Riva (see
Map L4 020 435 353 023 333 696 www. p24) and its clean, modern
www.villa-wolff.hr KKKK hotel-president.hr KKKK rooms have made this
small hotel one of Splits
Villa Dubrovnik,
Dubrovnik Ivan, Bol, Bra
This traditional stone
most popular so book
well in advance. Obla
Situated in a green oasis building in the heart of Hrvatskog Narodnog
removed from the hustle Bol has been reinvented Preporoda 8 (Riva) Map
and bustle of the Old as a chic, family-run hotel. N2 021 340 000 www.
City is this tranquil and The spa, outdoor pool hotel-adriana.hr KK
114 Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit

cards and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning.
Price Categories
Streetsmart
Stone Cottages, Kornati Islands
Island Retreats
Palagrua
Lighthouse
Lastovo Town, it can be
reached by road, but
every few days. Map
B4 Coronata: www.
To really get away from residents are hardly likely coronata.hr; Kornat Turist:
it all, head to Croatias to be disturbed by tourist www.kornatturist.hr; ut
most remote lighthouse, hordes on this remote Tours: www.zuttours.hr
located on an island 68 island. Struga Cape No credit cards KK
nautical miles from Split. Map G2 www.light
At 90 m (295 ft) above
sea level, it offers superb
houses-penul.com KKK
Hotel Odisej, Mljet
National Park
views over the Adriatic
and the little island itself. Suac Lighthouse
Contructed from
This large, whitewashed
resort hotel is set in the
Transfer from Korula Dalmatian stone in 1878, heart of Mljet National
Town costs about 350kn. this lighthouse has two Park. Rooms are fairly
off map www.light apartments, each of basic; the apartment is
houses-penul.com KKK which sleeps four people. more luxurious. The hotel
At an elevation of 100 m has a beach, tavern and
Ploica Lighthouse
Built in 1887, this
(328 ft) above sea level,
it is a good vantage point.
marina, but the real draw
is the stunning setting.
automated lighthouse Tranquillity is assured on Pomena Map J2
can accommodate 14 this uninhabited island. 020 744 022 www.
people in two apartments. Map G2 www.light hotelodisej.com KK
The flat islet, between houses-penul.com KKK
Hvar, Korula and the
Hotel ipan, ipan
Peljeac Peninsula, is ideal
for swimming and diving. Veli Rat
Lighthouse,
This 80-room hotel
overlooks a tranquil bay
Transfer from Korula Dugi Otok on the largest of the
Town costs about 900kn. Perfect for those who Elafiti Islands. It has two
Map G1 www.light want peace and quiet but restaurants and a bar.
houses-penul.com KKK also want access to local Close to beaches and
facilities, Veli Rat light- secluded coves, it offers
Prinjak
Lighthouse, Murter
house is situated 3 km
(2 miles) from two villages
a great escape from the
mid-summer hustle and
Situated on an islet just on the island of Dugi Otok bustle of Dubrovnik.
off Murter, the Prinjak and accessible by road. Map K2 020 758 000
lighthouse can be easily Map A3 www.light www.sipanhotel.com No
reached by yacht. While it houses-penul.com KKK air con Closed mid-Oct
doesnt offer a sense of Apr KK
remoteness, transfers are
Stone Cottages,
Kornati Islands
reasonably priced (around
370kn), and supplies can A number of tourist Hotel
Lopud
Villa Vilina,
be delivered daily. agencies in Murter have This 4-star hotel occupies

Map B4 www.light a portfolio of rustic stone a villa shrouded by lush
houses-penul.com KKK houses in the Kornati vegetation beside the
Islands National Park, marina. It has 14 rooms
Struga
Lastovo
Lighthouse, where you can live out
a desert island dream.
and three suites, all
modern and elegant. The
The four apartments Even if the island is not restaurant, with its sea-
in this attractive 1839 totally deserted, it can view terrace, is popular.
lighthouse can sleep two certainly feel like it is. Obala Ivana Kuljevana 5
to five people. Situated You can arrange to have Map K2 020 759 333
5 km (3 miles) from supplies dropped off www.villa-vilina.hr KKK
Note: The lighthouses have no en-suite bathrooms or air con; their 115
pricing is derived from the weekly rate per unit divided by seven.
Streetsmart
Left Dubrovnik Youth Hostel Right Karmen Apartments, Dubrovnik
Budget Accommodation
Dubrovnik
Youth Hostel
Dalmatian stone villa in
Lapad. There are just
bar. Reservations are
recommended in high
A 10-minute walk from seven bedrooms, so season. Obala Kneza
the main bus station and book well in advance. Trpimira 76 Map B3 023
15 minutes from the Old The villa has a car park 331 145 www.hfhs.hr
City, Dubrovniks 82-bed and a communal terrace. No en-suite No air con K
hostel is clean and wel- Mate Vodopica 10 Map
coming. Accommodation
is in bunks within male
L4 020 437 332 www.
vilamicika.hr No air con K Perin Dvor, Nin
Located by the Donji
and female dormitories. Most (Lower Bridge), this
Reservations are a must.
Vinka Sagrestana 3 Karmen
Apartments,
friendly Croatian-German
place has seven rooms
Map L4 020 423 241 Dubrovnik and three apartments.
www.hfhs.hr No These individually styled, The latter have small,
en-suite No air con K well-equipped apartments fully equipped kitchens,
enjoy a prime location and separate sitting/
Adriatic,
Dubrovnik
inside the Old City walls.
Book room 1, overlooking
dining areas. Breakfast
(served in the restaurant)
One of Dubrovniks few the old port, and be the costs extra. Hrvatskog
remaining 2-star hotels, envy of every tourist who Sabora 1 Map B3 023
and one of the citys passes. Considering their 264 307 K
more affordable options, position, the apartments
the Adriatic is still by no
means cheap. The hotel
represent good value.
Bandureva 1 Map K6 Accommodation
Touts
has a fairly rudimentary 020 323 433 www. Locals tout for business
gym and clay tennis karmendu.tk KK at bus and ferry terminals
courts; it is also well throughout Dalmatia. A
located for the beach.
Masarykov Put 9 Map Zagreb, Dubrovnik
The 3-star Zagreb
private double room will
typically cost only 200kn,
L4 020 433 520 www. stands out from the and can be a good option.
hotelimaestral.com KK mass of hotels in Lapad Remember to ask to
due to its size (it has just see photographs and the
Lapad, Dubrovnik
The best thing about
23 rooms) and the fact
that it is housed not in a
location on a map before
accepting, as quality and
this large Lapad Peninsula concrete block but in an accessibility vary greatly.
hotel is the price but attractive period property.
note that you will pay a
premium for a room with
Just 5 minutes from the
beach, this is a good Local Tourist
Agencies
balcony, sea views and budget option. etalite Many individuals offer
air conditioning. Theres Kralja Zvonimira 27 Map private accommodation
an outdoor pool, but its L4 020 438 930 www. through tourist agencies.
located quite close to the hotels-sumratin.com KK If you call at doors
road. Lapadska Obala 37 showing sobe (rooms)
Map L4 020 432 922
www.hotel-lapad.hr No air Zadar
Hostel
Youth signs, it is common to
be directed to these
con Closed NovApr KK Zadars modern 290-bed centrally located offices.
hostel is in the suburb Staff can be reluctant to
Vila Micika,
Dubrovnik
of Borik, 5 km (3 miles)
from the historic centre.
help if you plan to stay in
the accommodation for
Simple accommodation is It has its own sports less than three days, but
on offer here in a typically ground, restaurant and persistence can pay off.
116
Price Categories
For accommodation K under 450kn
for two people per KK 450900kn
Streetsmart
Camping Trsteno, Trsteno
Self-catering & Campsites

Camping Solitudo,
Dubrovnik Camping
ibenik
Solaris,
Tapestry Holidays
You can rent private
The closest campsite to This campsites 500-plus accommodation on
Dubrovniks Old City is spaces are part of the the Peljeac Peninsula,
just a 10-minute bus ride sprawling Solaris Holiday Korula or Lopud, or in
away. It has 238 pitches, Resort. Camping Solaris Dubrovnik or Cavtat,
a modest restaurant and itself enjoys a pleasant through this British
an outdoor swimming location amid pine trees company. Properties are
pool. Surrounded by pine just 50 m (160 ft) from selected for their charm,
trees, it is 200 m (650 ft) the sea. The campsite setting and views. 020
from the shore. There are may never feel exclusive, 8235 7777 (UK) www.
reduced rates for under but guests can use the tapestryholidays.com
12s, making this a resorts myriad facilities,
popular family option.
Vatroslava Lisinskog 17
including its indoor and
outdoor pools. Hot Dalma Holidays
This Croatian villa
Map L4 020 448 686 Naselje Solaris bb Map rental specialist has just
www.babinkuk.com C4 022 364 000 www. over a dozen, largely
Closed mid-OctMar K solaris.hr Closed Nov seafront properties close
mid-Mar K to Zadar in the villages of
Camping Kalac,
Korula Town
Koino and Petrane. All
Just 2 km (1 mile) from Camping

Adriatic, Orebi
have been finished to a
high standard. 020
the historic centre of A blissfully small 8677 2655 (UK) www.
Korula Town and 50 m campsite by Dalmatian dalmaholidays.co.uk
(160 ft) from a beach, this standards, the Adriatic
campsite accommodates
up to 600 people. Its
has spaces for just 60
tents or motor homes. Simply Travel
The emphasis at
facilities include a shop Nestling among pine and Simply Travel is on
and a restaurant. Under olive trees, it is set back organizing self-catering
12s pay a reduced rate. from a pebble beach and apartment rentals on the
There is a small extra has good views across islands of Bra, Hvar,
charge for parking. to Korula. Mokola 6 Korula and Lopud, as
Adjacent to Bon Repos Map H1 020 713 420 well as in Dubrovnik.
Hotel Map H1 020 711 www.adriatic-mikulic.hr 0870 166 4979 (UK)
182 www.korcula.net Closed OctMar K www.simplytravel.co.uk
Closed OctMay K
Camping Trsteno, Croatian Villas

This London-based Croatian Affair
This UK-based
Trsteno agent arranges rentals company manages a
Located up the hill from throughout Croatia. The range of attractive private
the Trsteno Arboretum, companys portfolio of villas and apartments in
this pleasant small-scale properties on Dalmatias central and southern
campsite is situated mainland and islands is Dalmatia. Many of the
amid olive groves. extensive. Villas and properties have pools,
Stairs provide access apartments vary in size, and most are located
for guests to a pebble typically accommodating in spectacular natural
beach. On-site facilities between two and six settings. Check out Vrnik
include a shop and a guests, though larger Castle on the island of
restaurant. Potok 4 groups can be catered the same name. 020
Map K2 020 751 060 for. 020 8888 6655 (UK) 7385 7111 (UK) www.
Closed OctMar K www.croatianvillas.com croatianaffair.com
117
General Index
A bars 106 breakfast 109
Adio Mare (Korula Town) Central Dalmatia 86 Brela 82
48, 97 Dubrovnik 65 Brodarica
Adriana (Split) 114 Northern Dalmatia 78 restaurants 48, 79
Index
Adriatic (Dubrovnik) 116 opening hours 100 budget travel 107

Adriatic Highway 107 Southern Dalmatia 96 accommodation 116
adventure sports 53 basketball 45 Bukovac, Vlaho 60, 93
air travel 103, 107 Bassano, Jacopo da 17 bureaux de change 105
Alan (Starigrad-Paklenica) Beach Bar (Peljeac buses 101, 103, 107
111 Peninsula) 93, 96 Bua (Dubrovnik) 8, 65
alcohol 50, 106 Beach Caf (Lumbarda) 96 Byron, Lord 36, 58
Alexander III, Pope 39 beach volleyball 45
Algoritam (Dubrovnik) 63 beaches 423, 52 C
All Saints Church Dubrovnik 66 Caf Festival (Dubrovnik)
(Korula Town) 17 Korula Town 17 10
ambulances 104 Bebi (Lumbarda) 97 cafs
Amfora (Hvar Town) 112 Bella Vista (Peljeac Central Dalmatia 86
Amfora (Orebi) 97 Peninsula) 96 Dubrovnik 65
Ancic, Mario 45 Bellevue (Dubrovnik) 110 Internet cafs 105
Andriji, Nikola and Josip Bellevue (Orebi) 113 Northern Dalmatia 78
61 Bellevue (Split) 112 opening hours 100
Angelico, Fra Belltower (Dubrovnik) 23 Southern Dalmatia 96
St Cosmas and St Biograd Na Moru 76 Caff Bar Forum (Zadar)
Damian before Biser (Pag) 111 78
Diocletian 25 Bishops Palace (Korula camping 53, 117
animal bites 104 Town) 17 Camping Adriatic (Orebi)
apartments 53, 115, 116 Bievo 84 117
Aquarium (Dubrovnik) 61, bites and stings 104 Camping Kalac
62 Blaise, St (Korula Town) 117
Archaeological Museum Church of St Blaise Camping Solaris (ibenik)
(Split) 24, 40 (Dubrovnik) 11, 389, 59 117
Archaeological Museum Feast of St Blaise 54 Camping Solitudo
(Vis Town) 41 paintings of 13 (Dubrovnik) 117
Archaeological Museum relics 13, 39, 59 Camping Trsteno (Trsteno)
(Zadar) 31, 41 statues of 8, 11, 15, 61 117
Argentina (Dubrovnik) 110 Votive Church Carnival 54
Arka (Dubrovnik) 68 (Dubrovnik) 66 Carpaccio 17
Arneri Palace Blue Grotto (Bievo) 84 Carpe Diem (Dubrovnik)
(Korula Town) 17 Blue Lake 85 64
Arsia (Split) 51 boats Carpe Diem (Hvar Town)
Art Caf (Makarska) 86 boat trips 9, 67 86
Art Silver Shop cruises 103, 108 cars 103
(Dubrovnik) 63 ferries 52, 101, 103 breakdowns 104
arts and crafts sailing 26, 45, 467, 103 driving in Croatia 107
shops in Korula Town sea kayaking 44 ferries 103
17 boanje 45 hiring 53, 103, 107
things to buy 51 Bokar Fort (Dubrovnik) 9 cash machines 105, 106
Artur Galerija (Dubrovnik) Bol 83 Castel Antonia 113
51 hotels 114 cathedrals 389
Atlas Club Nautika nightlife 86 Dubrovnik 39, 59
(Dubrovnik) 49, 69 restaurants 87 St Anastasia (Zadar) 31,
Aurora (Primoten) 78 books, further reading 100 39
Bokovi, Ruer 12 St Domnius (Split) 22
B Bra 40, 80, 83, 84 St James (ibenik)
Babin Kuk Peninsula 66 beaches 42 7, 289, 37, 38
Bacina Lakes 94 cafs, bars and nightlife St Lawrence (Trogir) 18,
Bavice (Split) 25, 45, 86 86 38
Badija 95 hotels 114 St Marks (Korula Town)
banks, opening hours 100 museums 41 16
Baptistry (Split) 23 Brajkov, Mihoje 12 St Stephen (Hvar) 37, 39
118
Cavtat 93 Cosic, Kresmir 45 Dubrovnik 5869
cafs, bars and nightlife crafts 51 arts and crafts 51
96 credit cards 105, 106 beaches 42, 66
hotels 113 crime 104, 107 cafs and bars 65
restaurants 97 Croata (Dubrovnik) 63 campsites 117
Central Dalmatia 807 Croatia Hotel (Cavtat) 113 Cathedral 39, 59
Index
cafs, bars and nightlife Croatian Affair 117 Church of St Blaise
86 Croatian National Theatre 389, 59
excursions 85 55 excursions 67
hotels 112 Croatian Villas 117 festivals and events 54,
islands 83, 84 cruises 103, 108 55
map 80 Crusaders 34 Franciscan Monastery
restaurants 87 Crveno Jezero 85 1213
Cervantes (Dubrovnik) 65 culture 100 hotels 110, 114, 116
Cetina Gorge 44, 85 currency 105 map 58
children 102 customs allowances 101, museums 40
amusements 523 106 nightlife 64
in hotels 102, 109 cycling 53 Old City Walls 6, 89
churches 389 ilipi 94 old town 36
Church of the Holy iovo 18, 84 public statues 41
Cross (Nin) 38 hotels 112 Rectors Palace 6,
Church of our Lady ipiko Palace (Trogir) 19 1415, 55, 59, 61
(Korula Town) 17 restaurants 49, 689
St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 11, D sailing routes 46, 47
389, 59 Dalma Holidays 117 shopping 63
St Donat (Zadar) 31, 39, Dalmatinac, Juraj Stradun 6, 1011, 59, 61
54 Cathedral of St Domnius walk in 61
St Elijah (Zadar) 31 (Split) 22 Dubrovnik Hotel
St Francis (Dubrovnik) Cathedral of St James (Dubrovnik) 110
12 (ibenik) 28, 29, 38 Dubrovnik Palace
St Ignatius (Dubrovnik) 62 Pag Town 37 (Dubrovnik) 110
St John the Baptist statues of 41 Dubrovnik President
(Trogir) 19 dance, Moreka 17, 55 (Dubrovnik) 110
St Luke (Dubrovnik) 62 Debeli, Zoran 51 Dubrovnik Youth Hostel
St Michael (Komia) 39 debit cards 105, 106 116
St Nicholas (Nin) 38 Defne (Dubrovnik) 69 Dugi Otok 27, 77, 115
St Saviour (Dubrovnik) Diocletian, Emperor 22, restaurants 79
11, 55 25, 35 sailing routes 46
St Simeon (Zadar) 30 birthplace 81 duty-free allowances 101,
Votive Church Diocletians Palace (Split) 106
(Dubrovnik) 66 7, 223, 36, 51, 81
City Beach (Dubrovnik) 66 Dioklecijanova (Split) 51 E
City Museum (Split) 23 disabled travellers 102 earthquake (1667) 11
city walls discounts 106 economy 100
Dubrovnik 6, 89, 59, 61 student 102 electricity 100
Korula Town 16 diving 44 embassies 101
Civic Museum (Trogir) 18 doctors 104 emergencies 104
climate 101 dolls 50 Esperanza (Dubrovnik) 64
climbing 44 Dominican Monastery Ethnographic Museum
Clock Tower (Trogir) 19 (Dubrovnik) 59 Rupe (Dubrovnik) 62
Clocktower (Dubrovnik) 11 Domino (Dubrovnik) 69 Excelsior (Dubrovnik) 110
clothes driving in Dalmatia 103, exchange services 105
things to buy 50, 51 107 excursions
what to pack 101 Northern Dalmatia 75 Central Dalmatia 85
Club Hacienda (Vodice) 78 Peljeac Peninsula 93 Dubrovnik 67
coastal walk (Split) 25 Drvenik Mali 84 Exodus (Dubrovnik) 64
consulates 101 Drvenik Veli 84 extreme sports 45
Convent of St Claire Dri, Marin
(Dubrovnik) 62 Marin Dri House F
Convent of St Nicholas (Dubrovnik) 62 F1 (Trogir) 86
(Trogir) 19 Dubrovaka Kua Faces Club (Bol) 86
Copacabana Beach 66 (Dubrovnik) 51, 63 ferries 52, 101, 103
119
Festival Caf (Dubrovnik) group travel 102, 107 I
65 Gru Harbour (Dubrovnik) identity cards 104
festivals and events 545 66 insurance 101, 104
Firentinac, Nikola 19 Gubavica Falls 85 International Childrens
Cathedral of St James Gueti family 92 Festival (ibenik) 53
(ibenik) 28, 29, 38 Gunduli, Ivan 13 Internet 105, 109
Index
Fish Market (Split) 24 Ivan Gunduli Memorial Irish Pub (Dubrovnik) 65

Fish Sandwich Bar (Dubrovnik) 12 Iron Gate (Split) 23
(Dubrovnik) 68 portrait of 14 islands
Five Wells Square (Zadar) statues of 41, 62 Central Dalmatia 84
30 Gundulieva Poljana island-hopping 83
flights, scenic 67 (Dubrovnik) 61, 62 island retreats 115
Fontana (Trogir) 112 Northern Dalmatia 77
food and drink 49, 107 H Southern Dalmatia 95
picnics 106 handicrafts 51 Ivan (Bol) 114
things to buy 50 happy hours 106 Ivan Gunduli Memorial
see also restaurants health 104 (Dubrovnik) 12
football 45 Hemingway Bar Ivanievi, Goran 25, 45
Fort of St Nicholas (Dubrovnik) 64 I 77
(ibenik) 55, 76 Hermitage of Blaca (Bra)
fortifications 52 41 J
Fortress of St Saviour hiking 44 Jadran (Dubrovnik) 68
(Knin) 76 Hilton Imperial (Dubrovnik) Jadran (ibenik) 111
Forum Caf (Zadar) 30 110 Jagerstar (Dubrovnik) 63
Foa (Zadar) 75, 79 hiring cars 53, 103, 107 Janjina 93, 94
Franciscan Monastery history 345 Jelai, Ban Josip 35
(Dubrovnik) 11, 1213 holidays, public 101 jewellery 50
Fresh (Korula Town) 96 hospitals 104 Job, Ignat
hostels 116 Olive Trees 60
G Hotel Dubrovnik Palace
Gabriellis Palace (Dubrovnik) 69 K
(Korula Town) 17 Hotel Korula Kamenica (Dubrovnik) 68
Gaffe (Dubrovnik) 65 (Korula Town) 96 Kamerlengo Fortress
galleries see museums Hotel Odisej (Mljet (Trogir) 18
and galleries National Park) 115 Kapetanova Kua
Gallery Anima (Zadar) 51 Hotel Restaurant Biser (Mali Ston) 97
Gallery More (Zadar) 51 (Pag Town) 79 Karmen Apartments
Gallery Pia (Zadar) 51 Hotel ipan (ipan) 115 (Dubrovnik) 116
Gallery Stradun Hotel Villa Vilina (Lopud) Katela 81
(Dubrovnik) 51 115 Katina 27
Garagnin Palace (Trogir) hotels 11016 Kavana Dubravka
18 budget travel 107, 116 (Dubrovnik) 65
The Garden (Zadar) 78 Central Dalmatia 112 kayaking 44
gardens see parks and characterful hotels 114 Klis 82
gardens children in 53, 102, 109 Klub Orlando (Dubrovnik)
gay and lesbian travellers Dubrovnik 110, 114, 116 64
102 island retreats 115 Knin
Ghetto Club (Split) 86 Northern Dalmatia 111 Fortress of St Saviour
Goddard, Wade 60 reservations 101, 107, 76
Golden Gate (Split) 23 109 Koloep 95
Gotham (Zadar) 78 resort hotels 52 beaches 43
government 100 Southern Dalmatia 113 Kolona (Cavtat) 97
Gradac 82 Hvar 80, 84 Kolovare (Zadar) 111
beaches 43 Hvar Town 83 Komia
Gradska Kavana cafs, bars and nightlife Church of St Michael 39
(Dubrovnik) 14, 65 86 Kompas (Dubrovnik) 110
Gradska Vjenica (ibenik) Cathedral of St Stephen Konavle 93
28, 79 37, 39 safaris 67
Grapelli, Marino 59 hotels 112 Konoba 85 (Novalja) 79
Greek settlers 34 old town 367 Konoba Bavara
Grgur Nin (Gregory of Nin) restaurants 87 (Lastovo Town) 97
35, 41 venues 55 Konoba Branimir (Nin) 79
120
Konoba Marko Polo Lokanda Peskaeija Metrovi, Ivan (cont.)
(Korula Town) 96 (Dubrovnik) 68 Otavice 75, 76
Korula 14, 92, 95 Lokrum 39, 66, 95 statue of Grgur Nin 41
sailing routes 46 Lopud 95 statue of Ivan Gunduli
Korula Hotel hotels 115 41
(Korula Town) 113 Lovrijenac Fortress statue of John the
Index
Korula Town 6, 1617, 91, (Dubrovnik) 61 Baptist 23
93 Lumbarda 17, 94 statue of Marko Maruli
cafs, bars and nightlife beaches 43 41
96 cafs, bars and nightlife Michelozzi, Michelozzo 9
campsites 117 96 Milievi, Pasjij 61
hotels 113 restaurants 97 Mineta Fort (Dubrovnik) 8
old town 36 Luxor Caf (Split) 22 Miosi, Father Andrija
restaurants 48, 97 Lua Square (Dubrovnik) Kacic 41
venues 55 61 Mlini 67
Kornat 27 Mlinica Taverna (Orebi) 97
Kornati Islands 77, 115 M Mljet
sailing routes 46 Macondo (Hvar Town) 87 restaurants 97
Kornati National Park 7, Majsan 95 Mljet National Park 92, 115
267, 72, 77 Makarska mobile phones 105
Kotor 67 cafs, bars and nightlife Modro Jezero 85
Krapanj 74 86 Monastery (Cavtat ) 113
Kristijan (Roki Slap) 20 Makarska Monument 41 Monastery Museum
Krka Monastery 21 Makarska Riviera 82 (Dubrovnik) 13
Krka National Park 7, 201, Mala Proversa waterway money 105, 106
52, 72, 73, 75 27 Moreka 17, 55
Krini, Frano 60 Mali Ston 92, 93 Mosor 85
Krupa Monastery 76 hotels 113 Mostar 67, 85
Kula Norinska 94 restaurants 48, 97 Mount Sr 66
Kut (Vis) 37, 83 Malo More 93 Movie Resort Hotel
Mamilo (Lastovo Town) 96 (Tribunj) 111
L Mana 27 Murter 26, 27, 77, 115
Labirint (Dubrovnik) 64, 69 Marco Polo House sailing routes 46
lace 501 (Korula Town) 17 museums and galleries
Land Gate (Korula Town) Marin Dri House 401
16 (Dubrovnik) 62 opening hours 107
Land Gate (Trogir) 19 Maritime Museum Archaeological Museum
Land Gate (Zadar) 30 (Dubrovnik) 9, 40, 61 (Split) 24, 40
landmines 104 Marival (Zadar) 79 City Museum (Split) 23
language 100, 107 Marjan Hill (Split) 24 Civic Museum (Trogir) 18
Lapad (Dubrovnik) 116 markets 107 Ethnographic Museum
Lapad Peninsula 66 Marmontova (Split) 24 Rupe (Dubrovnik) 62
Lastovo 95, 115 Marmonts Gazebo (Trogir) Marin Dri House
sailing routes 467 19 (Dubrovnik) 62
Lastovo Town Marin Dri Theatre Maritime Museum
cafs, bars and nightlife (Dubrovnik) 55 (Dubrovnik) 9, 40, 61
96 Maruli, Marko Metrovi Gallery (Split)
old town 37 statue of 41 24, 40
restaurants 97 Mary, Queen of Scots 17 Monastery Museum
Latino Club Fuego Massimo (Korula Town) (Dubrovnik) 13
(Dubrovnik) 64 16, 96 Museum of Croatian
lavender 51 Maya Pub (Zadar) 78 Archaeological
Lavsa 27 Mea Culpa (Dubrovnik) 68 Monuments (Split) 40
Lazereti (Dubrovnik) 64 medication 101 Museum of Modern Art
Lero (Dubrovnik) 110 Medu Gredama Gorge 21 (Dubrovnik) 60
libertas 9, 60 Meugorje 67 Museum of the Island
Liburna (Korula Town) 113 Mesi, Stepjan 35 of Bra (krip) 40
lighthouses 109, 115 Metrovi, Ivan 8, 51, 60, Town Museum
Livno 85 82, 93 (Korula Town) 17
Loggia, Rectors Palace Distant Agreements 40 Tusculum (Solin) 40
(Dubrovnik) 14 Metrovi Gallery (Split) Vlaho Bukovac Gallery
Loggia (Trogir) 19 24, 40 (Cavtat) 93
121
museums and galleries Onofrios Little Fountain Peristil (Split) 114
(cont.) (Dubrovnik) 11 Petrovi, Draen 45
War Photo Limited Open Air Theatre Petrovi, Leonardo 12
(Dubrovnik) 60 (Korula Town) 55 Petrovi, Petar 12
Mussolini, Benito 74 opening hours 100, 106 pets 102
Oraac 94 pharmacies 104
Index
N Orebi 91, 93 pickpockets 104, 107

Napoleon I, Emperor 35, beaches 42 picnics 106
60 cafs 96 pidgin 45
Narodni Trg (Split) 24 campsite 117 Pile Gate (Dubrovnik) 8
Narodni Trg (Zadar) 31 hotels 113 Pikera 27
National Museum (Zadar) restaurants 97 Plitvice Lakes 85
41 Orlandos Column Ploe Gate (Dubrovnik) 8
national parks (Dubrovnik) 11, 41 Ploica Lighthouse 115
Kornati 7, 267, 72, 77 Orsan (Zaton) 97 Poklisar (Dubrovnik) 68
Krka 7, 201, 52, 72, 73, Ostrea (Mali Ston) 113 Polae 92
75 Otavice 75, 76 police 104
Mljet 92, 115 Ottoman Empire 16, 34 Polo, Marco
Paklenica 52, 73, 76 Our Lady of the Belfry birthplace 16, 36, 92
Neven Fortress 21 (Split) 23 Marco Polo House
Neretva Delta 91 outdoor activities 445 (Korula Town) 17
Netcafe (Dubrovnik) 65 post offices 105
newspapers 105 P opening hours 100
nightlife package holidays 107 Potomje 93
Central Dalmatia 86 Pag 77 Pracat, Miho
Dubrovnik 64 beaches 43 statue of 14
Northern Dalmatia 78 cafs, bars and nightlife President (Zadar) 114
Southern Dalmatia 96 78 Pridriga
Nin 72, 74 hotels 111 public statues 41
beaches 42 Pag Town Primoten 74
Church of St Nicholas 38 nightlife 78 hotels 111
Church of the Holy old town 37 nightlife 78
Cross 38 public statues 41 restaurants 79
hotels 116 restaurants 79 Prinjak Lighthouse
public statues 41 Pagus (Pag) 111 (Murter) 115
restaurants 79 Pakleni Islands 84 Privi 77
Northern Dalmatia 729 beaches 42 Prina Bay
cafs, bars and nightlife Paklenica National Park beaches 43
78 52, 73, 76 Proto (Dubrovnik) 69
drive in 75 Palaa Dekovi (Bra) 114 public holidays 101
hotels 111 Palaa Paladini (Hvar Town) Pui family 59
islands 77 87 Pui Palace (Dubrovnik)
map 72 Palace (Hvar Town) 112 114
restaurants 79 Palagrua 95 Puls 2 (Split) 86
Nostromo (Split) 48, 87 Palagrua Lighthouse 95, Pustijerna (Dubrovnik) 62
Novalja 78 115
beaches 43 Panorama 111 R
restaurants 79 Paolo, Piero 14 Rab
Novigrad 72, 75 Paolo Veneziano 59 sailing routes 47
No. 4 Club (ibenik) 78 Papali Palace (Split) 23 Rai family 93
Park (Split) 112 radio 100
O parks and gardens Radovan 18, 38
Ogigija (Mljet) 97 Trsteno Arboretum 92 rafting 44
Old City Walls (Dubrovnik) passports 101, 104 Ragusa, Republic of 9, 34
6, 89, 59, 61 Paman 77 dissolution 60
Old Harbour (Dubrovnik) 60 Paula (Vis Town) 112 Napoleonic wars 35
old towns 367, 107 Paveli, Ante 35 prison cells 15
older travellers 102 Peljeac Peninsula 90 Rectors Palace
Omega 3 (Dubrovnik) 63 bars 96 (Dubrovnik) 1415
Omi 83 a drive along 93 Ston 91
Onofrios Large Fountain vineyards 91 Raphael 59
(Dubrovnik) 10 Perin Dvor (Nin) 116 Raonda (Dubrovnik) 65
122
Rectors Palace St Luke (Dubrovnik) 62 Split 245, 80, 83
(Dubrovnik) 6, 1415, St Michael (Komia) 39 arts and crafts 51
55, 59, 61 St Michael (Korula Town) cafs, bars and nightlife
Red Lake 85 17 86
religion 100 St Nicholas (Nin) 38 Diocletians Palace 7,
resort hotels 52 St Saviours Church 223, 36, 51, 81
Index
Restaurant Fontana (Dubrovnik) 11, 55 festivals and events 55
(Trogir) 49 St Simeon (Zadar) 30 hotels 112, 114
Restaurant Foa (Zadar) 48 St Stephens Cathedral museums 40
Restaurant Perin Dvor (Hvar Town) 37, 39 old town 36
(Nin) 79 sales tax 106 pidgin 45
restaurants 489, 106, 107 Salona 22, 80, 81 public statues 41
Central Dalmatia 87 Saloon (Pag Town) 78 restaurants 48, 87
children in 53 Sanmicheli, Michele 30 sailing routes 46, 47
Dubrovnik 689 La Scarpa (Dubrovnik) 63 Split Hotel (Split) 112
Northern Dalmatia 79 scuba diving 44 Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik)
opening hours 100 sea kayaking 44 11, 55, 61
Southern Dalmatia 97 Sebastian (Dubrovnik) 51 sports 445
tipping 106 security 104 Sprem, Karolina 45
vegetarian meals 102 self-catering 117 Srebreno 67
see also food and drink Serbian Orthodox Stari Grad Hotel
Restoran Dalmacija Museum (Dubrovnik) (Dubrovnik) 114
(Primoten) 79 62 Starigrad Paklenica 76
Restoran Fontana (Trogir) Sesame (Dubrovnik) 68 hotels 111
87 Shaw, George Bernard 26, statues, public 41
Restoran Monika (Trogir) 58 Stellon (Split) 48, 87
87 shopping Ston 91, 93
Restoran Pojoda (Vis Town) Dubrovnik 63 Stone Cottages
87 food and drink 106 (Kornati Islands) 115
Revelin Fort (Dubrovnik) 8, opening hours 106 Stradun (Dubrovnik) 6,
60 things to buy 501 1011, 59, 61
Revlin Club (Dubrovnik) 64 Silba 77 Strossmayer, Juraj 35
Richard the Lionheart 39 Simeon, St 30 Struga Lighthouse
Riva (Cavtat) 96 Simply Travel 117 (Lastovo) 115
Riva (Split) 24 Sinj 85 students 102
Riva (Trogir) 18, 19 Sisak, Battle of (1593) 34 sun precautions 104, 107
roads 103 Skradin 20, 21, 72, 75 Sunset Bar Hotel
Rodin, Auguste 82 hotels 111 (Dubrovnik) 65
Rogoznica 76 Skradinski Buk (Skradin) Sunset Strip (ibenik) 78
Roman Empire 34 20, 111 Suac 95
Roman Forum (Zadar) 31 Slavic tribes 34 Suac Lighthouse 95, 115
Roki Slap 20, 21 Slavija (Hvar Town) 112 Sveti Stefan 67
Rozarij (Dubrovnik) 69 Slavija (Split) 112 swimming 45, 53
Smokvica (Trogir) 86 Synagogue (Dubrovnik) 62
S snorkelling 45 edro 84
sailing 45, 103 society and culture 100 ibenik 27, 72
Kornati Islands 26 Solin cafs, bars and nightlife
routes 467 museums 40 78
top tips 47 Southern Dalmatia 907 campsite 117
St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 11, cafs, bars and nightlife Cathedral of St James 7,
389, 59 96 289, 37, 38
St Donats Church (Zadar) hotels 113 Fort of St Nicholas 76
31, 39, 54 islands 95 hotels 111
St Elijah (Zadar) 31 map 90 old town 37, 73
St Francis (Dubrovnik) 12 Peljeac Peninsula drive public statues 41
St Ignatius (Dubrovnik) 62 93 restaurants 79
St John the Baptist (Trogir) restaurants 97 St Johns Fortress 76
19 souvenirs 501 venues 55
St Johns Fort (Dubrovnik) Spaghetteria Toni ibenik Archipelago
9, 60, 61 (Dubrovnik) 68 sailing routes 46
St Johns Fortress speed limits 103 ibenik Theatre 55
(ibenik) 76 spirits 50 ipan 95
123
iroka (Zadar) 31 U Votive Church (Dubrovnik)
kola (Dubrovnik) 68 Ugljan 77 66
krip UNESCO World Heritage Vrana, Lake 75, 76
museums 40 Sites 93
olta 84 Cathedral of St James W
umica (Split) 87 (ibenik) 7, 28, 38 walking 44
Index
Diocletians Palace (Split) in Dubrovnik 61

T 22 walls see city walls
Tamaris (Dugi Otok) 79 Plitvice Lakes 85 War Photo Limited
Tapestry Holidays 117 Trogir 7, 1819 (Dubrovnik) 60
Taverna (Bol) 87 Uvala (Dubrovnik) 110 wars 107
Taverna Rustica Uvala Bay 66 water, drinking 100
(Dubrovnik) 49, 69 water polo 45
tax refunds 106 V waterfalls
taxis 103, 106 vegetarian meals 102 Gubavica Falls 85
Telaica Nature Park Veli Rat Lighthouse Roki Slap 21
beaches 423 (Dugi Otok) 115 Skradinski Buk 20
telephones 105 Venerada (Hvar Town) 86 Waterfront (Orebi) 96
television 105 Venice 34 weather 101
tennis 45 venues 55 wildlife
theft 104, 107 Vicko (Starigrad-Paklenica) Kornati National Park 27
Tilda (Dubrovnik) 63 111 Krka National Park 21
time 100 Victoria Restaurant Neretva Delta 91
timetables 101 (Dubrovnik) 69 windsurfing 44
tipping 106 Vid 94 wine 50, 106
Titian 39, 59 Vidilica (Split) 86 women travellers 102
Tito, Marshal 35 Viganj 94 working in Croatia 102
Tomislav, King 34, 35 Vila Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik)
tourist agencies 116 69 Z
tourist information 101 Vila Kaliopa (Vis Town) 48, Zadar 27, 34, 75
towers 52 87 arts and crafts 51
Town Hall (Korula Town) Vila Koruna (Mali Ston) 48, cafs, bars and nightlife
16 97, 113 78
Town Museum Vila Micika (Dubrovnik) 116 Cathedral of St
(Korula Town) 17 Vila Neretva (Neretva Anastasia 39
Town Theatre (Hvar) 55 Delta) 113 Church of St Donat 39
travel 101, 103, 107 Vila Sikaa (iovo) 112 festivals and events 54,
travel insurance 101, 104 Villa Dubrovnik (Dubrovnik) 55
Trebinje 67 114 hotels 111, 114
Trg Republike (Split) 25 Villa Koa (Primoten) 111 museums 41
Tribunj 74 Villa Kvaternik (Cavtat ) old town 7, 301, 36, 72,
hotels 111 113 73
Trogir 7, 1819, 80 Villa Orsula (Dubrovnik) restaurants 48, 79
bars 86 114 sailing routes 47
Cathedral of St Villa Wolff (Dubrovnik) 114 siege of 31
Lawrence 18, 38 vineyards Zadar Archipelago
hotels 112 Peljeac Peninsula 91 sailing routes 46
old town 36, 81 Vinoteka (Dubrovnik) 63 Zadar Youth Hostel 116
restaurants 49, 87 Vis 37, 80, 83, 84 Zadvarje 85
sailing routes 467 restaurants 48 Zagreb (Dubrovnik) 116
Troubadur Hard Jazz Caf sailing routes 46 Zaostrog 83
(Dubrovnik) 64 Vis Town Zaton
Trpanj 94 hotels 112 restaurants 97
Trstenik 94 museums 41 Zlarin 77
Trsteno restaurants 87 Zlatna Ribica (Brodarica)
campsite 117 visas 101 48, 79
Trsteno Arboretum 92 Visovac, Lake 20, 21 Zlatni Rat (Bra) 42
Tusculum (Solin) 40 Visovac Monastery 21 Zre (Novalja) 78
Tuman, Franjo 35 Vodice Zrc
statue of 41 cafs, bars and nightlife beaches 43
Tuman Bridge 78 Zrmanja Gorge 76
(Dubrovnik) 66 volleyball 45 ivogoe 83
124
Acknowledgments
The Authors Picture Credits
Based in Scotland, Robin and Jenny Placement Key: ttop; tctop centre;
McKelvie are a formidable husband-and- tltop left; trtop right; clacentre left above;
Acknowledgments
wife travel-writing team. Between them cacentre above; cracentre right above;
they have visited more than 70 countries, clcentre left; ccentre; crcentre right;
and have co-authored guides to Croatia, clbcentre left below; cbcentre below;
Latvia, Slovenia and Dubai. crbcentre right below; blbelow left;
bcbelow centre; brbelow right; bbottom.
Thanks to the Croatian National Tourist
Board, especially Andrea Petrov and Renata Every effort has been made to trace
Dezeljin in Zagreb, and Josip Lozi in the copyright holders and we apologize
London. Thanks also to Zrinka Marinovi in advance for any unintentional omissions.
and Nikolina Viceli at Adriatic Luxury We would be pleased to insert the
Hotels in Dubrovnik. appropriate acknowledgments in any
subsequent edition of this publication.
Produced by DP Services, a division
of Duncan Petersen Publishing Ltd. The publishers would like to thank the
following individuals, companies and
Editorial Director Chris Barstow
picture libraries for permission to
Designer Ian Midson
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125
Phrase Book
Pronounciation Guide early rano ranoh
c ts as in rats ch as in church late kasno kasnoh
t as in tube d as in endure entrance ulaz oolaz
g g as in get j y as in yes exit izlaz eezlaz
sh as in shoe J as in Jacques toilet WC Vey tsey
Phrase Book
aj igh as in night more vie veeshey

less manje manyey
In an Emergency
Help! Pomo! pomoch Shopping
Stop! Stani! stahnee How much Koliko ovo kolikoh ovoh
Call a doctor! Zovite doktora! zoveetey doktorah does this cost? kota? koshta
Call an Zovite hitnu zoveetey heetnoo I would like... Volio bih... volioh bee...
ambulance! pomo! pomoch Do you have...? Imate li...? eematey lee...
Call the police! Zovite policiju! zoveetey Im just looking Samo gledam Samoh gledam
poleetseeyoo Do you take Primate li preematey lee
Call the Zovite zoveetey credit cards? kreditne credeetney
fire brigade! vatrogasce! vatrohgastsay kartice? carteetsey
What time do Kad otvarate/ kad otvaratey/
Communication Essentials you open/close? zatvarate? zatvaratey
Yes da dah This one Ovaj ov-igh
No ne ney That one Onaj on-igh
Please molim vas moleem vas expensive skupo skoopoh
Thank you hvala hvahlah cheap jeftino yefteenoh
Excuse me oprostite oprosteetey size (clothes) veliina veleechinah
Hello dobar dan dobar dan size (shoes) broj broy
Goodbye dovienja doveedjenya white bijelo beeyeloh
Good night laku noc lakoo noch black crno tsrnoh
Yesterday juer yoocher red crveno tsrvenoh
Today danas danas yellow uto zhootoh
Tomorrow sutra sootrah green zeleno zelenoh
Here tu too blue plavo plavoh
There tamo tahmoh bakery pekara pekarah
What? to? shtoh bank banka bankah
When? kada? kada book shop knjiara knyeezharah
Why? zato? zashtoh butchers mesnica mesnitsah
Where? gdje? gdyey cake shop slastiarna slasteecharnah
chemists apoteka apohtekah
Useful Phrases fishmongers ribarnica reebarnitsah
How are you? Kako ste? kakoh stey market trnica trzhneetsah
Very well, Dobro, hvala dobroh, hvahlah hairdressers frizer freezer
thank you newsagents trafika trafeekah
Where is/are...? Gdje je/ su? gdyey yey/ soo post office pota poshtah
How can I Kako mogu kakoh mogoo
get to...? doi do...? dochee doh... Sightseeing
Do you speak Govorite li govoreetey art gallery galerija galereeyah
English? engleski? lee engleskee umjetnina oomyetneenah
I dont Ne nay cathedral katedrala katedralah
understand razumijem razoomeeyem church crkva tsrkvah
Could you Molim vas, moleem vas, library knjinica knyeezhneetsah
speak more moete li mozhetey lee museum muzej moozey
slowly please? govoriti govoreetee tourist turistiki tooreesteechkey
sporije? sporiyey information ured oored
Im sorry ao mi je zhaoh mee yey centre
bus station autobusni aootoboosnee
Useful Words kolodvor kolodvor
big veliko veleekoh railway station eljezniki zhelyeznichkih
small malo mahloh kolodvor kolodvor
hot vru vrooch
cold hladan hlahdan Staying in a Hotel
good dobar dobar Do you have a Imate li eematey lee
bad lo losh vacant room? sobu? soboo
open otvoreno otvohrenoh double room dvokrevetna dvokrevetnah
closed zatvoreno zatvohrenoh soba sobah
left lijevo leeyevoh single room jednokrevetna yednokrevetnah
right desno desnoh soba sobah
straight on ravno ravnoh room with soba sa sobah sah
near blizu bleezoo a bath kupatilom koopateelom
far daleko dalekoh shower tu toosh
up gore gorey I have a Imam eemam
down dolje dolyey reservation rezervaciju rezervatseeyoo
126
Eating Out koljke na shkolkay nah shellfish in
Have you got Imate li eematey lee buzaru boozaroo tomato and onion
a table for...? stol za...? stol zah pageti frutti shpagetee frootee spaghetti with
I want to elim Zheleem di mare dee marey seafood
reserve a table rezervirati rezerveeratee sol sol salt
stol stol tjestenina tjesteneenah pasta stuffed with
The bill please Molim vas, moleem vas, meat and rice
ulje oolyey oil
Phrase Book
raun rachoon
I am Ja sam yah sam
a vegetarian vegeterijanac vegetereeyanats Drinks
waiter/waitress konobar/ konobar/ bijelo vino beeyeloh veenoh white wine
konobarica konobaritsah crno vino tsrnoh veenoh red wine
menu jelovnik yelovneek gazirana/ gazeeranah/ sparkling/still
wine list vinska karta veenskah kartah negazirana neygazeeranah mineral water
glass aa chashah mineralna meeneralnah
bottle boca botsah voda vodah
knife no nozh aj ch-igh tea
fork viljuka veelyooshkah kava kavah coffee
pivo peevoh beer
spoon lica zhleetsah
breakfast doruak doroochak
lunch ruak roochak
Numbers
0 nula noolah
dinner veera vecherah
1 jedan yedan
main course glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh
2 dva dvah
starters predjela predyelah
3 tri tree
4 etiri cheteeree
Menu Decoder
5 pet pet
bijela riba beeyelah reebah white fish
6 est shest
blitva bleetvah Swiss chard
7 sedam sedam
brudet broodet fish stew
8 osam osam
evapii chevapcheechee meatballs
9 devet devet
crni riot tsrnee reezhot black risotto
10 deset deset
desert desert dessert 11 jedanaest yedanest
glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh main course 12 dvanaest dvahnest
grah grah beans 13 trinaest treenest
gula goolash goulash 14 etrnaest chetrnest
jastog yastog lobster 15 petnaest petnest
juha yoohah soup 16 estnaest shestnest
kuhano koohanoh cooked 17 sedamnaest sedamnest
maslinovo masleenovoh olive oil 18 osamnaest osamnest
ulje oolyey 19 devetnaest devetnest
meso na mesoh nah barbecued meat 20 dvadeset dvahdeset
aru zharoo 21 dvadeset i dvahdeset ee
mijeano meejeshanoh mixed grilled jedan yedan
meso mesoh meats 30 trideset treedeset
na aru nah zharoo barbecued 31 trideset i treedeset ee
ocat otsat vinegar jedan yedan
palainke palacheenkay pancakes 40 etrdeset chetrdeset
papar papar pepper 50 pedeset pedeset
peeno pechenoh baked 60 ezdeset shezdeset
piletina peeleteenah chicken 70 sedamdeset sedamdeset
plava riba plavah reebah blue fish 80 osamdeset osamdeset
predjelo predyeloh starters 90 devedeset devedeset
prilog preelog side dish 100 sto stoh
prut prshoot smoked ham 101 sto i jedan stoh ee yedan
prene lignje przhene leegnyey fried squid 102 sto i dva stoh ee dvah
preno przhenoh fried 200 dvjesto dveestoh
ramsteak ramsteyk rump steak 500 petsto petstoh
ranjii razhnyeechee pork kebabs 700 sedamsto sedamstoh
riba na reebah nah barbecued fish 900 devetsto devetstoh
aru zharoo 1,000 tisuu teesoochoo
riot frutti reezhot frootee seafood risotto
di mare dee marey Time
riot sa reezhot sah scampi risotto One minute jedan yedan
kampima shkampeemah minuta meenootah
salata salatah salad One hour jedan sat yedan saht
salata od salatah od octopus salad Half an hour pola sata polah sahtah
hobotnice hobotneetsey Monday ponedjeljak ponedyelyak
sarma sarmah cabbage leaves Tuesday utorak ootorak
sir seer cheese Wednesday srijeda sreejedah
sladoled sladoled ice cream Thursday etvrtak chetvrtak
slana srdela slanah srdelah salted sardines Friday petak petak
kampi na shkampee nah scampi in tomato Saturday subota soobotah
buzaru boozaroo and onion Sunday nedjelja nedyelyah
127
Dalmatia Map Index
Arano F4 Kruge C2 Puia E5
Baka Voda E5 Kuite H1 Rab A1
Bake Otarije B2 Kukljica B3 Raie H1
Benkovac C3 Kula Norinska J1 Roga D5
Bibinje B3 Kupari L2 Rogoznica C5
Dalmatia Map Index
Bilice C4 Kut D6 Sali B3

Biograd na Moru B3 Lastovo G2 Seget Donji D5
Bievo C6 Lavsa B4 Seline B3
Blace J1 Liki Osik B2 Senj A1
Blato G1 Ljubitovica D4 Sestrunj A3
Bogomolje F6 Ljubovo B1 Silba A2
Bol E5 Lokrum L3 Sinj E4
Boraja D4 Lopar A1 Skradin C4
Boava A3 Lopud K2 Skrivena Luka G2
Bra E5 Lovinac C2 Slano K2
Brbinj A3 Lovite H1 Sobra J2
Brela E5 Lukovo ugarje B2 Solin (Salona) D5
Brnaze E4 Lumbarda H2 Split D5
Brodarica C4 Lun A1 Srebreno L2
Bruvno C2 Makarska F5 Stari Grad E6
Cavtat L3 Mali Drvenik C5 Starigrad-Paklenica B2
Cista Provo E5 Mali Ston K2 Stobre D5
ilipi L3 Mana B4 Stomorska D5
iovo D5 Marina D5 Ston J2
Dobroselo C2 Maslinica D5 Strmica D3
Donji Srd D2 Maun A2 Suevici C3
Drni D4 Metkovi J1 Suuraj H1
Drvenik H1 Milna D5 Sudurad K2
Drvenik Mali C5 Minjak A1 Sukoan B3
Drvenik Veli D5 Mlini L3 Sumartin E5
Duba Pljeka H1 Mljet J2 Supetar E5
Duba Stonska J2 Mljet National Park J2 Sutivan D5
Dubrovnik K2 Molat A3 Sv. Klement D6
Dugi Otok A3 Molunat L3 Svetac C6
Dugi Rat E5 Murter B4 Sveti Juraj A1
Dugopolje E4 Mutili C2 edro G1
Glavice E4 Neretva Delta J1 estanovac E5
Gornji Mu D4 Neum J2 ibenik C4
Gospi B2 Nin B3 ipan K2
Goveari J2 Novalja A2 ipanska Luka K2
Graac C2 Novigrad B3 krda A2
Gradac J1 Obrovac C3 krip E5
Gruda L3 Olib A2 olta D5
Gubavica Falls E5 Omi E5 Telaica Nature Park B4
Hvar D6 Opuzen J1 Tkon B4
Imotski F5 Oraac K2 Topolo J2
Ist A2 Orebi H1 Tribunj C4
I A3 Otavice D4 Trilj E4
Jablanac A1 Otoac B1 Trogir D5
Jabuka B6 Otok E4 Trpanj H1
Janjina J2 Padene D3 Trstenik J2
Jelsa G1 Pag A2 Trsteno K2
Joan C2 Paklenica National Park B2 Tuepi F5
Kakan C4 Pakotane B4 Ubli G2
Kali B3 Paman B3 Ugljan A3
Kamenmost F5 Perui B1 Vela Luka G1
Kaprije C4 Pirovac C4 Veli Drvenik D5
Karlobag A2 Pikera B4 Veli I A3
Katela D5 Plat L3 Vid J1
Katel Gomolica D5 Plitvica C1 Viganj H1
Katel Stari D5 Plitvice National Park B1 Vir A2
Katel egarski C3 Ploe J1 Vis D6
Kistanje C3 Podgora F5 Vodice C4
Klek J1 Podstrana E5 Vrboska G1
Klis D5 Pokrivenik G1 Vrgorac F6
Knin D3 Polae J2 Vrlika D4
Koloep K2 Pomena J2 Zadar B3
Komia D6 Popovii L3 Zadvarje E5
Komolac L2 Posedarje B3 Zagvozd F5
Konavle L3 Potima G2 Zaostrog H1
Korula H1 Potomje J1 Zaton K2
Korenica C1 Povljana A2 Zavala G1
Korita K2 Preko B3 Zavalatica G2
Kornat B4 Primoten C4 Zlarin C4
Kornati National Park B4 Privlaka A3 Zrmanja C3
Kozarica J2 Prizdrina H1 irje C4
Krapanj C4 Prizna A2 ivogoe H1
Krasno A1 Priba G2 uljana J2
Krka National Park C3 Prvi C4 ut B4
128
eyewitness top 10 travel guides
Top 10
DubrovNIk
& THE DALMATIAN CoAST
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top 10 guide will lead you straight to
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dozens of top 10 lists - from the top

10 historic towns to the top 10 idyllic
beaches and lively bars - provide the
insider knowledge every visitor needs.
and to save you time and money, there
are budget and shopping tips, as well as
a list of the top 10 things to avoid.
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Dubrovnik and Dalmacija Travel Guide

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DubrovNIk

& THE DALMATIAN CoAST

Left Excursion boat, Cavtat Right Fish platter, Nostromo, Split

A CIP catalogue record is available from Diocletians Palace, Split 22

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Moments in Dalmatian Around Dubrovnik

Old Towns 36 Dubrovnik 58

Cathedrals & Churches 38 Northern Dalmatia 72

Museums & Galleries 40

Festivals & Events 54 Dalmatia Map Index 128

Left Old town, Dubrovnik Right Croatian National Theatre, Split

Dubrovnik & The DalmaTian CoasT

Old City Walls,

remarkable old city @gVhcd 7^]V

Dubrovnik protection. Ajc A>@6" H:C ? H@6

Today they allow @gj\Z

Eg^ocV A^`^Dh^` ?dVc

impressive cities <gVVX

boasts a wealth of @dgcVi^ KdY^XZ

pavement cafs (see Eg^bdiZc

Rectors Palace, Dubrovnik

 Preceding pages View of rooftops from Dubrovnik city walls

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Krka National Park

Diocletians Palace, Split

Zadar Old Town

now back to its lively best, with

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

St Johns Fort

of the walls there is an

Damaged in the Siege of

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

For Dubrovniks best cafs See p65 11

Franciscan Monastery, Stradun

 Ivan Gunduli Memorial

12 For visitor information for the Fransiscan Monastery and its

Franciscan Monastery Museum

 Potions and Poisons

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

In high season, visit

Map H1 Korula Town

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

paintings by Bassano G6BE6

and Carpaccio (right).

Marco Polo House

18 Note that opening hours have a tendency to change, so its best

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Mills and Exhibition

Those who are

chocolate-box monastery reclining on an island in the 

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Krka National Park

8am6pm daily. Adm statues of Roman figures. Built over Diocletians

22 Peristyle is the name given to a colonnade surrounding a

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

Leave the palace by the Golden Gate to see Ivan Metrovis 23

Other Sights in Split

pavement cafs make this the afternoon, it attracts throngs of

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

The islands sheltered

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

For more about sailing in Dalmatia See pp467 27

Dubrovnik & the Dalmatian Coast

For more Dalmatian places of worship See pp389 29

Dubrovnik protection. Ajc A>@6" H:C ? H@6

Eg^ocV A^`^Dh^` ?dVc

pavement cafs (see Eg^bdiZc

Rectors Palace, Dubrovnik

Preceding pages View of rooftops from Dubrovnik city walls

Krka National Park

St Johns Fort

Ivan Gunduli Memorial

Potions and Poisons

chocolate-box monastery reclining on an island in the

1st Century AD: Romans

6th Century AD:

Cathedral of St James, =kVg =kVg

in the making, is its HZV EZa_ZVX BVa^Hidc

glorious centrepiece AVhidkd Ba_Zi

Romanesque cathedral, =kVg =kVg

Marko Maruli, Split

National Museum, Zadar

The exhibits chart the citys Juraj Dalmatinac,

City Beach, Dubrovnik

Zrc, Novalja, Pag

very low-key scene. HZV BVa^Hidc

TrogirDubrovnik Join a Flotilla

Vila Koruna, Mali Ston

Adio Mare, Korula Town

Atlas Club Nautika,

Restaurant Fontana, Trogir Istrian Truffles (Tartufi)

Public Swimming Pools

Fortifications and Towers