Appendix

Microscopic views of Shingosen

Shingosen are advanced synthetic fibers and fabrics, usually the product
of combination of advanced technologies. They have opened up a new
field of high-quality textiles. The best way of conveying the nature of
these products and their characteristics, short of handling them, is to
provide micrographs taken by an electron microscope. This appendix
contains photographs of SEM images of Shingosen currently produced in
Japan, with a brief summary of their commercial names, their
characteristic properties, the technologies involved in producing them,
and the fields of application.

UTS (To ray)

Main technology: Finely crimped 0.06 denier (2 !lm diameter) filaments.
A-Z random processing (large interfilamental space). Mixed filaments.
Examples of final products: Jackets, suits, and coats.
Characteristics: Powdery smoothness in touch, warm and light.
226 Advanced fiber spinning technology

CEO (X (To ray)

Main technology: Minute gaps between filaments. Various fiber cross-
sections. Mixed filaments.
Examples of final products: Blouses and summer suits.
Characteristics: Good moisture absorbency, dry touch.

SILLOOK TIFFARA (To ray)

Main technology: 0.2 denier filaments containing ceramics. Tri-petal
cross-section.
Examples of final products: Blouses, dresses and jackets.
Characteristics: Dry and cool hand, bulk and resilient, silky luster, good
tailoring.
 Appendix 227

RIRANCHE (Toray)
Main technology: Multi-entangled composite yarn texturizing.
Examples of final products: Ladies blouses and jackets. Men's jackets.
Characteristics: Lustrous appearance, soft, bulky, good drape, cool
touch.

DUARA (To ray)

Main technology: Staple and filament composite spun yarn.
Examples of final products: Dresses, Formal suits.
Characteristics: Dry touch, bulky, good dyeability.
228 Advanced fiber spinning technology

PICEME (To ray)

Main technology: Polyester/polyamide conjugate spinning. Filament-
splitting during textile processing.
Examples of final products: Blousons. Skiwear.
Characteristics: Touch like rose petal, deep color and luster, water
repelling, waterproof and vapor permeable.

SILLOOK SILDEW (To ray)

Main technology: Multi-stage differential shrinking.
Examples of final products: Blouses. One-piece dresses.
Characteristics: Supple, silk-like, good bulk, mild luster, deep color.
 Appendix 229

CONCLAIRE (To ray)

Main technology: Uneven filaments of irregular denier. Different
shrinkage in each filament. Loop-type randomly entangled filaments.
Examples of final products: Vests. Blouses.
Characteristics: Good tailored appearance, light and warm.

SILLOOK ROYAL S (To ray)

Main technology: Latent differential shrinkage of filaments. Multi-stage
shrinking. Triangular cross-section with slits at apexes.
Examples of final products: Western style dresses. Kimonos.
Characteristics: Silky, bulky and resilient feel, silk-like scroop, good
drape and liveliness.
230 Advanced fiber spinning technology

CEO (To ray)

Main technology: Submicron-controlled non-circular cross-section.
Longi tudinal micro-uneveness.
Examples of final products: Blouses. Jackets.
Characteristics: Cool and dry in touch, hemp-like hand, easy tailoring.

SILLOOK CHATELAINE (To ray)

Main technology: Controlled micro-craters. Latent multi-stage shrinking.
Trefoil cross-section.
Examples of final products: Jackets. Skirts.
Characteristics: Silk-like touch, characteristic body.
 Appendix 231

MALOR (To ray)

Main technology: Side-by-side type conjugate yarn. Uneven filament
deniers. Random degree of crimp.
Examples of final products: Suits and jackets for men. Ladies' suits.
Characteristics: Elastic, easy tailoring, light and bulky, supple feel,
resilience and drapeability.
232 Advanced fiber spinning technology

AJENTY (Teijin)
Main technology: Woven fabric with microwaves on surface due to
differential elasticity of trilobal filaments.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear. Men's wear.
Characteristics: High bulk and softness with fine-brushed surface effect,
clear and deep color.

GUARDIA (Teijin)
Main technology: Uneven drawing of bicomponent yarn.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear.
Characteristics: Natural appearance through uneven (deep-colored thin
and pale-colored thick) pattern.
 Appendix 233

TEPLA (Teijin)
Main technology: Controlled drawing to yield filament fineness varying
randomly along fiber axis. Scaly unevenness on filament surface.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear. Men's wear.
Characteristics: Spun-like surface feel similar to natural spun silk, natural
appearance.

CONDENIER (Teijin)
Main technology: High-density fabric, woven from micro-fiber yarn and
relaxed at finishing.
Examples of final products: Sports wear. Coats.
Characteristics: Waterproof cloth of uncoated type without resin-coating
or film lamination, high moisture vapor permeability.
234 Advanced fiber spinning technology

XOXO (Teijin)
Main technology: Special spinning with thick filaments as a core covered
by fine short fibers made by tearing tows (MicroJuzz wrapped
structure).
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear. Sports wear.
Characteristics: Spun-like touch and high resilience.

XOXO-L (Teijin)
Main technology: Basically the same as XOXO, but finer denier filaments
in core.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear.
Characteristics: Linen-like appearance, moderate stiffness, peculiar
drapeability.
 Appendix 235

SILDOLL LEGE RETE (Teijin)

Main technology: Special spinning 'micro-random spinning'. Techniques
for fibillar structure.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear.
Characteristics: Natural appearance, similar to sanded silks, scroop effect.

WELLKEY-X (Teijin)
Main technology: Combination of WELLKEY yarn made of hollow
fibers with varying shrinkage (as warp yarn) and XOXO yarn of
micro fuzz wrapped structure (as weft yarn).
Examples of final products: Ladies' shirts and blouses. Men's shirts.
Characteristics: Water-absorbing property, silk-spun-like feel, scroop
effect.
236 Advanced fiber spinning technology

ROCHET (Teijin)
Main technology: Bicomponent yarn without splitting after dyeing.
Composed of mixed filaments of different deniers and shrinkage.
Examples of final products: Ladies' wear. Men's wear.
Characteristics: Silk-worsted handle, high stiffness and resilience.

CONSOFF (Teijin)
Main technology: Air-texturing of bicomponent fibers. Yarn surface
micro-fibers of various degrees of chain orientation and yarn center
coarse filaments of high shrinkage.
Examples of final products: Men's wear. Ladies' wear.
Characteristics: High bulk and resilience, deep color, fine worsted handle.
 Appendix 237

NACLE (Kanebo)
Main technology: Random cross-section conjugate yarn. Special
finishing.
Examples of final products: Blouses. Dresses.
Characteristics: Spun-silk-like handle, dry touch, moderate resilency.

KILATT (Kanebo)
Main technology: C-shaped cross-section large-hollow fiber. Conjugate
yarn. Texturizing possible.
Examples of final products: Sports wear. Casual wear.
Characteristics: Light, warmth-retentive, bouncy touch.
238 Advanced fiber spinning technology

NAZCA (Kanebo)
Main technology: Micro-fiber from conjugate yarn. Differential
shrinkage. Light brushing.
Examples of final products: Ladies' dresses. Blouses.
Characteristics: Moist touch, shadowy appearance, soft and bulky.

CASHMEENA (Kanebo)
Main technology: Composite textured yarn. Differential shrinkage. No
napping/brushing.
Examples of final products: Ladies' suits. Blouses.
Characteristics: Cashmere-like, soft and bulky, superior drape.
 Appendix 239

AOAI (Kanebo)
Main technology: Hybrid fabric of polynosic and shingosen. Fibrillation
of polynosic by biological treatment.
Examples of final products: Blouses. Jackets.
Characteristics: Sophisticated shadowy appearance, soft and wrinkle-
free, good dimensional stability and recovery.

OBJET (Kanebo)
Main technology: Composite textured yarn. Color mix. Differential
shrinkage.
Examples of final products: Ladies' suits and bottoms.
Characteristics: Soft, tweed-like, stereographic surface, good airy drape.
240 Advanced fiber spinning technology

LOUVRO (Toyobo)
Main technology: Dispersion of fine ceramics which possess the same
refraction as PET. Hollow fiber.
Examples of final products: Dresses. Blouses.
Characteristics: Lively resilience, dry touch, full dull luster.

ROSAllY (Toyobo)
Main technology: Special texturing. Mixed filaments of coarse deniers.
Examples of final products: Suits. Pants.
Characteristics: Soft and dry powdery touch, characteristic surface
appearance, moderate resilience and bulk.
 Appendix 241

GEENA (Toyobo)
Main technology: Shape memory effect by molecular alignment
technique at finishing. Mixed filaments. Special fabrication and
finishing.
Examples of final products: Dresses. Blouses.
Characteristics: Soft, warm hand, deep color.
242 Advanced fiber spinning technology

socia (Toyobo)
Main technology: Uniformly mixed composite spun yarn composed of
Shingosen and staple fiber.
Examples of final products: Suits. Coats.
Characteristics: Soft and bulky, good drape, powdery feel.
 Appendix 243

SHANDEL (Toyobo)
Main technology: Uniformly dispersed fine ceramics. Thick and thin yarn
(controlled irregularity).
Examples of final products: Dresses. Blouses.
Characteristics: Lively resilience with good drape, natural unevenness,
light.
244 Advanced fiber spinning technology

BONANZA (Mitsubishi Rayon)

Main technology: Multi-layered composite yarn. Copolymer. Controlled
molecular orientation (crystallization).
Examples of final products: Dresses. Jackets.
Characteristics: W ool-like-touch, high bulk, smoothness.
 Appendix 245

AEGE (Mitsubishi Rayon)

Main technology: Conjugate hollow filaments.
Examples of final products: Blouses.
Characteristics: High perspiration absorption, quick drying.
246 Advanced fiber spinning technology

CRISETA (Mitsubishi Rayon)

Main technology: Micro-diversified thick and thin yarn. Special drawing
and twisting.
Examples of final products: Dresses. Blouses.
Characteristics: Dry spun-silk hand, soft drape.
 Appendix 247

NAIVA (Unitika)
Main technology: Bicomponent fiber of nylon and EVAL. Sheath-core.
Examples of final products: Sports wear. Coats.
Characteristics: Peach-like type with high shrinkage.
248 Advanced fiber spinning technology

FSY (Unitika)
Main technology: Bicomponent fiber consisting of two polyesters with
different alkali-solubility. Separation by alkali-treatment.
Examples of final products: Ladies' coats. Wiping cloths.
Characteristics: Polyester microfiber of 0.1 dtex with wedge-shaped cross-
section.
 Appendix 249

CLEMENT (Unitika)
Main technology: Modified air-texturing of two-layered yarn consisting
of two polyesters. Modification of crystalline structure.
Examples of final products: Ladies' suits. Men's pants.
Characteristics: Worsted-like polyester fiber with deep dye ability.
250 Advanced fiber spinning technology

ROMIEL (Kuraray)
Main technology: Super-micro staple fiber of 0.4 denier. Sheath-core
spun yam. Lightly brushed.
Examples of final products: Coats. Jackets.
Characteristics: Soft and smooth touch, uniform surface, high drape-
ability.
 Appendix 251

F F (Kuraray)
Main technology: Conjugate spinning. Fibrillation and splitting of fibers.
Lightly brushed.
Examples of final products: Dresses. Coats.
Characteristics: Soft surface appearance, feather-like touch, moderate
bulk.
252 Advanced fiber spinning technology

DUO II (Asahi Kasei)

Main technology: Low-shrinkage high-speed-spun PET yarn mixed with
high-shrinkage conventional PET yarn.
Examples of final products: Blouses. Coats.
Characteristics: Soft and dry touch, light, silk-like luster.
 Appendix 253

GULKA (Asahi Kasei)

Main technology: Triangular cross-section with three hollows. Micro-
craters. Thick and thin yarn.
Examples of final products: Blouses, suits.
Characteristics: Moderately bulky hand, dry touch, shades against
ultraviolet rays