The Magic of the 3-Ingredient Chocolate

Oblivion Truffle Torte, As Told By Rose

Levy Beranbaum

by Kristen Miglore February 12, 2016

This flourless chocolate torte <https://food52.com/recipes/40780-rose-levy-beranbaum-s-

chocolate-oblivion-truffle-torte> is a better and purer vehicle for chocolate than chocolate itself
(scientifically speaking).

It's made from just 3 ingredients: chocolate, butter, eggs. It takes less time to mix together than your
average cookie, and it only bakes for 15 minutes.

Rose Levy Beranbaum's Chocolate Oblivion Truffle Torte

by Genius Recipes
So why did it at first seem scary, when in fact it took no more skill than the next chocolate cake? Why
was I emailing Rose Levy Beranbaum <http://www.realbakingwithrose.com/> pictures of the
cracked surface of my torte, only to slice into it later to find it was perfectly smooth and delicious
inside?

Beranbaum's recipes are famously precise, but, as I found out, it's not because there's only one way
to get them right. It's because she tests them until she finds the most proven path to making them
the best that they can be.

I couldn't just accept my gravity-defying, gluten-defying, failure-defying mousse cakeI wanted to

know the reasoning behind each carefully plotted step. How necessary was each of her
prescriptions, and what was the worst that could happen if I (orno offenseyou) botched one?

Below is a deep dive into the science and stories behind the recipewith each ingredient and step
annotated by Beranbaum herself. Feel free to skip to the recipe
<https://food52.com/recipes/40780-rose-levy-beranbaum-s-chocolate-oblivion-truffle-torte>
if you want to get to the goods sooner (I know, Valentine's Day is upon us), but if you like food science,
chocolate, or behind-the-scenes tales from the food industry of 1988, this long read is for you.

Happy Valentine's Day, from RLB and me to you.

The Oblivion.

The History of the Chocolate Oblivion

KM: First off, tell me the story behind this tortehow did you start making it?

RLB: There were two places where I had truffle tortes of this type. One was actually called a truffle
torteit was from Bonnie Stern <http://www.bonniestern.com/> , Toronto's top cooking school
teacher. When I went to meet herit was a lot of years agoshe had this cake that she'd made, and I
really loved it. And then I started investigating, and Narsai David also had a truffle-type torte
<http://www.williams-sonoma.com/recipe/chocolate-decadence.html> but it had one
tablespoon of flour in it.

I made it and I thought it was really wonderful, but what was that one tablespoon necessary for? I think
what he was doing was what so many people used to do in those daysthey would put one
unnecessary ingredient in something, so that if somebody imitated it, that person would know that
it was being ripped off without credit. Isn't that interesting?

I love giving credit, because I think giving credit has to do with the kind of food history that interests
me. And it's so nice to give creditit doesn't take anything away from you!

And then I came up with the ideabecause I had been working on cheesecakes and I always hated the
drier outside edge, I was using a water bath to keep the edges from drying. I thought if I apply that to
this cake, then it will maybe have the same moistness on the outside as it does in the center.

That was my starting point, having experienced these two. And they were called truffle tortes because
they're really like a trufflealthough truffle is just heavy cream, some people add egg yolk or butter.
But it's basically ganachethis is like a ganache cake.

So that tablespoon of flour really isn't doing anything

anything?

Nothing I could find that was desirable except to make it not suitable for the gluten intolerant!

You say this is your favorite way to eat chocolate. Why do you love it so much?

It's the purest form of chocolatewhen you just have a chocolate bar, you can't taste the chocolate
until it starts melting in your mouth. But this is just the right texture so that the minute you put it in
your mouth, the flavors start exploding.

It's the right consistency and there's nothing to interfere. There's no flour. Egg gives it texture, but it
also enriches it furtherit gives it a fuller flavor. And then of course butter doesn't do any harm
either!
This is a very, very special cake to me, not just because I don't think chocolate gets better than this, but
because of all the history I have around it.

[Editor's note: The Oblivion has shown up in a birthday cake commissioned for Ba Barrba
barra Kafka
<http://
<http://www
www.ba.barrba
barrakafka.com/> 's mother, a friendly challenge to Gael G Grreene
<http://
<http://www
www.in.inssatiable-c
atiable-crritic.com/> , and Rose's first meeting with her life-changing a ass
ssiis tant
Woo
Wood dy
<http://
<http://www
www..r ealbaking
ealbakingw with
ithrro s e.com/
e.com/2009
2009//05
05/int
/intrro du
ducing_my_a
cing_my_ass
ssiis tant_
tant_wwoo
ood
dy.html> ,
who she thought made the cake better than she did. It was also the source of Rose's only real hate letter
the person complained it didnt set, which is impossible given the large amount of chocolate and butter
that sets even at room temperature.]

That Name: Chocolate Oblivion Truffle Torte

First, what makes this a torte and not a cake?

Well, I think of a cake as having flour in it. It's also not tall or tiered; it's a single layerso to me it was
more of a torte.

How did you come up with the rest of the name?

My friend Marcel Desaulniers had just written Death by Chocolate

<http://www.amazon.com/Death-Chocolate-Last-Consuming-Passion/dp/0847825574?
tag=food52-20> , so we were making fun of all the extreme descriptions of chocolate, and I thought
that Oblivion was the ultimate. I guess it makes you oblivious to everything else! It just seemed right.

I love naming things. The ultimate honor that I've ever been given was two weeks ago. My editor in
China is having her first child, and she said "I would like to give you the honor of giving her her English
name." Isn't that amazing? I get the chills just saying it.
Want more Food52?
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you@domain.com I'm In

Let's Get Technical: The Ingredients

bittersweet chocolate (no higher than 62%) | 5 1/3 3-ounces bars | 1 pound | 454
grams

Why should the chocolate be no higher than 62%? What if I can only find 70%?

There's more cocoa butter, and cocoa butter sets both in the refrigerator and room temperature, so it
makes it stiffer, or firmer. Of course, once it softens, it will melt in your mouth, but I like it to melt in
my mouth immediately.

What are your favorite brands to make this with now?

APPEARS IN THESE COLLECTIONS

I no longer love Lindt as much as I didit's changed so much over the years. Chocolates that I love
now are (not necessarily in this order): Scharffen Berger, Valrhona, Guittard, and Felchlinthose are
Dessert
favorites of mine.
By Leah Thompson 784
Items
Your favorite chocolate to eat is what you should use in this torte, because even though it cooks and
has other ingredients, its essential flavor is the chocolate that you use.
dinner
By toi hinnant 5593 Items
butter, unsalted, room temperature | 1 cup | 1/2 pound (2 sticks) | 227 grams

Why is room temperature of the butter important?

Articles
By Kathy_P. 3736 Items
If you're using cold butter, it will take longer to soften and the chocolate may be heating more than
you want it to at that point.

Cakes
And what would happen if the chocolate overheats?
By Whoo 661 Items

It might affect the initial texture, the way it emulsifies with the eggs. It wouldn't be as smooth.
[Editor's note: This is probably what happened to me, with my cracked top referenced above. It still
tasted good!] Liisa's
By Liisa Aro-Lambert 699
Items
 6 large eggs, room temperature | 1 1/4 scant liquid cups | 10.5 ounces | 300 grams
(out of desserts
the shell)
By cindy 371 Items

What about the eggssince you're heating them up on their own later anyway, can you use them
straight out of the fridge?

While you're taking out the butter, you might as well take out the eggsbut you don't have to. It's fine
to just do it cold, it will only add a little time to the heating. You're right, you're warming the eggs up
anyway, they really don't have to be room temperature.

Equipment: One 8-inch spring form pan at least 2 1/2 inches high, buttered, and
bottom lined with buttered parchment; outside of pan wrapped with a double
layer of heavy-duty foil. One 10-inch cake pan or roasting pan to serve as a water
bath.

The Steps
1) Preheat the oven to 425F.

I'm assuming you prefer high heat for 15 minutes, rather than other similar flourless chocolate
cakes that call for lower heat for much longer?

I do think it would work doing it at a lower temperature for a longer amount of time, but since it
worked so perfectly at the higher temperature, I kept it that way.

2) In a large heat-proof bowl set over a pan of hot, not simmering water (do not
allow the bottom of the bowl to touch the water) place the chocolate and butter
and allow it to stand, stirring occasionally, until smooth and melted. (You can
also use a microwave on higher power, stirring every 20 seconds.)

Why is it important that the water not simmer (and why can't the bowl touch the water)?

Just as a general principalit's not a good idea to heat any chocolate mixture with steam. Before the
butter's all mixed in, steam could cause the chocolate to seize and then it's hard to get it to be smooth
again.

I know Alice Medrich actually melts chocolate by putting the bowl directly in the water
<https://food52.com/recipes/16667-alice-medrich-s-new-classic-coconut-macaroons> I would
hesitate to tell people to do that because if they splash any water in that's the end of it. She does
caution people to be really careful.

So there are a lot of different feelings about melting chocolate depending on who you talk to. That's
why I'm saying I think it probably wouldn't hurt, but my preference is for evenness.

And why is a microwave okay? Isn't that potentially more aggressive than simmering water?

You know, I don't really love doing it in the microwave, and there are two reasons. One is that it's too
much chocolate to melt well. And the other is that the microwave loves fat, so it will melt the butter
and it could scorch the chocolate, unless you keep stirring religiously. So I think this is something
that's better made not in the microwave.

That actually is a good thing to talk aboutwhich of these are the deal breakers for the recipe?
Will you get a fairly good product at the end even if you break all of your rules? Or are there
certain things that will dramatically affect the outcome?

I guess the biggest deal breaker is scorching the chocolate, because that will ruin the flavor of it. And
not beating the eggs enough, because then you won't have the moussey texturebut it's not going to
be devastating, it just won't be as wonderful. And of course one of the biggest things is don't use cheap
chocolate.

I'll never forget, when I went to the Lower East Side years ago to get Lindt chocolate, because that was
the only way that you could get a large quantity that was affordable, and the little old man said to me
"Vat are you making with this chocolate?" I said "Oh, I'm baking with it." And he said, "But this is eating
chocolate!" I said, "Well, don't you eat what you bake?" He said, "You have a point!"

To me, I don't want good enough, I want it to be as good as it can be. This is one thing, as you've
discovered, that is good enough even if you don't do it quite the way I had said to do it. But I prefer to
have it come out the way I think is the ultimate, even though I think it's hard to mess up.
Billowy!

3) In a large mixer bowl, set over a pan of simmering water, heat the eggs,
stirring constantly with a wire whisk, until just warm to the touch. Immediately
remove the bowl to the stand mixer and with the whisk attachment on high speed,
beat about 5 minutes, until triple in volume and the eggs are billowy and lighter
in color. (If using a handheld electric mixer, beat the eggs over simmering water
until they are hot. Then remove them from the heat and beat for about 5 minutes
or until cold.)

Why bother bringing up the temperature from hot-but-not-simmering to simmering just for the
egg part of it?

Just because it's faster, and because there's no harm in the steam like there is for the chocolate.

You say that heating the eggs helps them grow more in volume as they're whippedwhy is that?

I have to tell you that when I was working on gnoise for the Cake Bible
<http://www.amazon.com/Cake-Bible-Rose-Levy-Beranbaum/dp/0688044026?tag=food52-20>
not heating the bowl versus just heating the eggsall of that made a huge difference in the volume. I
guess the heat enables it to expandit's like what happens during baking.

4) Use as large wire whisk or rubber spatula to fold half the eggs into the
chocolate mixture until almost evenly incorporated. Fold in the remaining eggs
until almost no streaks remain. Use a rubber spatula to finish folding, scraping
up the mixture from the bottom to ensure that all the heavier chocolate mixture
gets incorporated.

Does it matter if you fold the chocolate into the eggs instead?

I do them both ways and there's no difference regarding adding eggs to the chocolate or vice versa.
In this case, folding chocolate into eggs. Thanks for the pass, RLB.

5) Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan and set it in the larger pan. Place it
in the oven and surround it with 1 inch of hot water. Bake for 5 minutes. Cover it
loosely with a sheet of buttered foil and bake another 10 minutes. (It will wobble
when moved.) Remove the cake pan from the water bath and allow it to cool for
about 45 minutes. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate it until very
firm, at least 3 hours.

What does the water bath do? What's at work there?

It keeps the temperature equal, and it keeps it moister on the sides, because you're introducing
moisture during the baking. It's really affecting the top more, and then whatever it does on the top is
going to work its way down, so it will improve the entire texture. Also it is essential to use a double
layer of heavy duty aluminum foil or water will seep in to the springform pan and then into the cake.
Fully folded. Next stop: water bath.

Why cover it after the first five minutes?

That's because you're using a really high heat and you don't want it to either dry out or burn.

Why buttered foil?

Just in case it dips down, so it doesn't stick. Only recently I started saying that instead of using foil you
can use a pot lid if it's heatproof, to cover it. Because that's kind of convenient, and then if it's a glass
one, you can see through it.

6-9) Unmold the cake: Have ready a serving plate that has at least an 8-inch flat
center portion and an 8-inch or large flat loose bottom of a tart pan or plate,
covered with greased plastic wrap. Run a torch, hair dryer, or a hot damp towel
around the sides of the pan. Run a thin metal spatula around the sides of the
torte and release the sides of the springform pan. Place the plastic-wrapped
plate on top and invert the torte onto it. Heat the bottom of the pan and remove it.
Peel off the parchment and reinvert the torte onto the serving plate. Serve: Cut
the torte, using a thin-bladed knife dipped in hot water between each slice.
Accompany with raspberry sauce and fresh raspberries and whipped cream if
desired.

You offer a lot of serving and frosting suggestions in the Cake Bible
Bibleganaches and
buttercreamswhat would you serve it with now?
My favorite way is just simply, with raspberry sauce and whipped cream. And sometimes I put some
chocolate curls on. It's fun doing the different versions, but I think the simple is the one I love the
most.

[Editors note: You made it, hooray! Here's some bonus footage, set to romantic music. Happy folding <3
KM]

Rose Levy Beranbaum's Chocolate Oblivion Truffle Torte

Genius Recipes

RECIPE

Makes one 8-inch torte, serves many

1 pound (454 grams) bittersweet chocolate (fine quality that you love eating, no
higher than 62%)

1/2 pound (2 sticks, or 227 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature

6 large eggs (300 grams, out of the shell), room temperature if possible

Equipment: One 8-inch spring form pan at least 2 1/2 inches high, buttered, and
bottom lined with buttered parchment; outside of pan wrapped with a double
 layer of heavy-duty foil. One 10-inch cake pan or roasting pan to serve as a water
bath

Got a genius recipe to sharefrom a classic cookbook, an online source, or anywhere, really? Please send
it my way (and tell me what's so smart about it) at k r i s ten
ten@@foo
food52
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.com.

Photos by Julia Gartland

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