Graduation Research Project

Product development in an export house

Submitted
By

Hashmeet Kaur

IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE POST GRADUATE DEGREE "MASTER OF

FASHION MANAGEMENT (MFM)"

Under the Supervision of

Mr. Tanmay Kandekar
Assistant Professor

Department of Fashion Management Studies (FMS)

National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT)
Plot 15, sector 4, Kharghar, Navi Mumbai, Maharashtra- 410210
Web: www.nift.ac.in
May, 2016
 DECLARATION

I Ms. Hashmeet Kaur, hereby declare that the Graduation Research Project (GRP)
entitled product development in an export house is the result of my own research work
carried out by me during the period from January 2016 to April 2016 except as cited in
the references. This report has not been submitted to any other University or Institution
for award of any degree/diploma etc.

Signature
Name of the Student: Hashmeet Kaur
Date: 11th may16

ii
iii
 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that Ms. Hashmeet Kaur of National Institute of Fashion

Technology (NIFT), Mumbai has successfully completed his/her GRP work
titled Product development in an export house in partial fulfillment of
requirement for the completion of 2 Years Post Graduate Programme
"Master of Fashion Management (MFM)" as prescribed by the Department
of Fashion Management Studies (FMS), National Institute of Fashion
Technology.

This 'Graduation Research Project' report is the record of authentic work

carried out by him/her during the period from January 2016 to April 2016
under my mentorship.

Signature

Name of the Faculty Mentor: Tanmay Kandekar

Designation: Assistant professor

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A project report seems to be an individual effort is in fact a team work.

Graduation project at Gaurav International (Richa Group) was just an
opportunity to shake hand with the practical world of business.
I am indebted to all the individuals who helped me in gaining knowledge
and insights about the various aspects of working in an export house. I am
grateful to my industry mentor Mrs. Poonam Shiv, the general manager of
the merchandising department, Mr. Nikhil (designer), Mr. Kunal
Sharma (senior merchant) for sharing their experiences and knowledge.
My deepest appreciation also extends to my Mr. Tanmay Kandekar,
Project mentor, faculty at NIFT, Mumbai, who critically reviewed my
project report and provided suggestions.

Signature

NAME: HASHMEET KAUR

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Contents
List of tables and figures ...........................................................................................................viii
Chapter 1: Introduction about the company ................................................................................. 1
Richa group ............................................................................................................................ 1
Companys divisions ............................................................................................................... 1
Wovens division.................................................................................................................. 1
Knits division ...................................................................................................................... 2
Home furnishing divisions ................................................................................................... 2
1.1 Infrastructure ............................................................................................................... 3
Quality and R&D .................................................................................................................... 4
Clients .................................................................................................................................... 4
Chapter 2: Background of the project .......................................................................................... 7
About the project .................................................................................................................... 7
Project objectives .................................................................................................................... 7
Chapter 3: Review of literature.................................................................................................... 8
Textile industry in India ...................................................................................................... 8
Contribution to employment generation ............................................................................... 9
Chapter 4: Methodology ........................................................................................................... 10
4.1 Designing ........................................................................................................................ 10
4.1.1 Developing fashion designs ...................................................................................... 11
4.2 Merchandising................................................................................................................. 13
4.2.1 Merchandiser ............................................................................................................ 13
4.2.1.................................................................................................................................. 14
4.3 Product Development ...................................................................................................... 15
4.3.1 Roles and responsibilities of a merchandiser ............................................................. 16
4.4 Garment Sampling........................................................................................................... 16

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 4.4.1 Sampling Process ..................................................................................................... 17
4.5 Department Structure ..................................................................................................... 17
Chapter5: Project Undertaken: .................................................................................................. 20
Product Development in an Export House ................................................................................. 20
5.1 PROJECT 1: RANGE DEVELOPMENT IN THE DESIGN DEPARTMENT ................. 20
Projects objective ............................................................................................................. 22
Project description ............................................................................................................ 22
Range development process.............................................................................................. 23
Range development for Ann Taylor brand for spring/ summer17 ..................................... 27
FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDED SOLUTIONS ..................................................................... 39
PROJECT 2: SAMPLING IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ............................................ 42
Project description ............................................................................................................ 42
Role of the Department ..................................................................................................... 42
Activities of a Merchandiser .............................................................................................. 43
Workflow of Merchandising Department .......................................................................... 50
Findings and recommended solutions ................................................................................... 51
Chapter 6: Learning ................................................................................................................... 54
References ................................................................................................................................ 55
Appendices ............................................................................................................................... 56

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List of tables and figures

Figure 1: inspirations from wgsn 25

Figure 2: inspiration taken from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17 28
Figure 3: inspirations from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17 29
Figure 4: trim and stitch techniques 31
Figure 5: design sheet and sample 33

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Chapter 1: Introduction about the company

Richa group
Richa groupis a group of 2 companines:

Richa and co.

Richa and Company was set up in the year 1977. The company is operating with its four
units located at Kirti Nagar (Delhi), Mayapuri (Delhi), Mangolpuri (Delhi) and Gurgaon.
It specializes in the manufacturing of woven readymade garments.

Gaurav international

Established in 1983, Gaurav International manufactures woven readymade garments and

home furnishing products of excellent qualities. The company is operating from its units
in Gurgaon.

Richa group stands tall with US $100 million turnover.

Companys divisions

Wovens division
The woven division of Richa Group is equipped with state-of-the-art technology.
Leveraging on its technical superiority and the expertise of the professionals, this division
has achieved an in-house annual production capacity of 15 million pieces.

Requirement of the clients is one of the foremost elements that determine the
specifications of the products. The preferences of the clients vary from place to place.
Besides, it keeps on changing from time to time. Keeping an account of all these aspects,
the woven division of Richa Group manufactures the products as per the market demand.

To position itself as a truly world-class manufacturer, the woven division strives to

achieve global standards in quality, cost, service and scale of operation. It is using
innovative technologies to manufacture the finest products at reasonable cost. Richa
Group enjoys a technological advantage making it the choicest destination of the clients
for readymade woven garments.

Through a wide range of woven products, Richa Group has earned the goodwill of
reputed brands from across the globe. Today, it boasts of its prestigious clients who are
importing products from it. Every year it is creating a newer image for itself by offering

1
innovative woven products. Richa Group is exploring new markets of its woven products
across the world with a rich heritage, contemporary professionalism and high-end
technology.

Knits division
Richa Group has successfully created a superior foothold in the knit category too. The
total capacity of the Knits division is 1 million garments per year. It specializes in a
variety of products for men, women and kids including Polo T-shirts, Jackets, Ladies
knitted tops.

Richa Group is well accepted as a leading vendor of knitwear by the buyers from all the
major destinations of the world. Because of the world-class standards that it maintains
while manufacturing the products, it has become a reputed manufacturer of knitted
garments in the international arena. Many reputed brands have enriched the clientele of
the Richa Group. It speaks volumes of the level of efficiency that the knits division has
achieved.

In the ultramodern manufacturing facilities of the knits division, experienced industry

professionals are engaged in work with the determination to excel. Richa Group has
attracted the best brains in the industry and it has enabled it to form a dedicated
workforce of industry experts.

Home furnishing divisions

In order to cater to the rising demands for home furnishing products, Richa Group
ventured into this sector with a commitment to excel. This division offers a new
dimension to the Richa Group to further expand its business empire. Armed with an
experienced and dedicated team of professionals, the home furnishing division is catering
to the needs of clients, delivering world-class products of the finest quality, at reasonable
rates.

Over the years, the division has developed an excellent infrastructure essential for
producing home furnishing products of international standards. It procures raw materials
from reputed vendors in order to maintain the best quality in all the products. Cutting-
edge technologies play a major role in the manufacturing process. Richa Group has taken
all possible steps to equip the home furnishing division with the latest technologies and
the best of expertise.

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The dedication of the professionals and satisfactions of the customers have brought
success for the home furnishing division in the markets across the globe. It is growing at
a remarkable pace bringing out more and more unique products in the market.

1.1 Infrastructure
Richa Group is equipped with more than 12 fully integrated manufacturing units in
Delhi, Gurgaon & Manesar. The Group is all set to establish more and more
manufacturing units. It will further enhance the production capacity of the Group. A
textile mill at Tiruthani near Chennai is giving an extra dimension to the Group.
Offices strategically located all over India are operating with a commitment to excel.

The Group is equipped with state of the art machinery like Tunnel Cover Seaming
Machines, Heat Transferring Machines and Vertical Garments processing with auto
tilting to produce various types of high quality knitted garments. Ultramodern
technologies lead the Group ahead of the competitors. It plays the key role in
producing the products of superior quality. The unique blend of modern technologies
from all over the world has enabled Richa Group to maximize its capability.

Keeping an account of the changing needs of the customers the Group equips itself
with the latest technologies. It is determined to make use of the most modern
technologies for offering the finest product to the clients. Technological superiority
plays a crucial role in gaining an edge in todays competitive market. It also
empowers the Group to achieve the optimum production levels. The latest
highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from - designing (CAD), Cutting
(Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fabric Testing (Fully
Equipped Laboratory) and Fusing.

Cutting
The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber spreader
and cutter that ensure 100% perfection. It improves
turnaround times and expedites the cutting process with
minimal waste and cost. The section also has Bend Knife
machine and Fusing machines. Most modern CAD
systems from Gerber, Tukatech and Lectra are employed
for Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and
Marking System.

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 Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality
washing and wrinkle-free finishing. The in-house washing capacity is one
million pieces per month. The laundry division is well equipped with
a.utomatic washers, extractors, PERK and dryers. It has ultramodern
facilities like Enzyme, Stone, Sandblasting, Pigment Dying, Over Dying
and Vertical Garment Processing with Auto Tilting etc. Various pressing
machines and heat transferring machines are also available to ensure
improvement in high functional performance of the garment through
specialty finishing.

Final Inspection
Richa Group has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with
the latest equipments. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring
100% perfection of all the products. It is inspected that all the features
demanded by the clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly
check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are delivered
to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. Thats
why utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the
products are faultless.

Quality and R&D

Quality initiative

Quality plays the key role in the business expansion of any corporation. Its the core of a
business for what it gets acceptance and credibility amongst its clients. All possible
measures are taken at Richa Group to maintain the world-class quality. At Richa Group,
we endeavor to achieve the best quality from two points of view.

Research and development

Innovations lead ahead a leader to remain at its position tackling all the challenges. At
Richa Group, utmost importance is given on Research & Development and all efforts are
made to make it one of the best in the world. It is involved in the entire process of
garment manufacturing from pre-production sampling to packing stage. It looks into
Industrial engineering, process feasibility and other technical aspects.

Clients
Through a wide range of high fashion garments for men, women and children, Richa
Group has marked a distinguished presence in over fifteen countries including USA, UK,

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Europe and Canada. In the leading retail outlets around the world, the products of Richa
Group are flaunting the latest fashions. With over two decades of presence as a major
Indian Government Recognized Trading House in the international fashion apparel
market, Richa Group has become a widely admired name.
The Richa Group has become a favoured supplier of High fashion garments and has
worked with the leading customers across the world.

GAP Abercrombie & Fitch Dillards Sears Express

WAL-MART Copper Key Federated Stores Armani Exchange

Essentials Calvin Klein Polo Ralph Lauren J.Crew

Sigrid Olsen Liz Claiborne Ann Taylor Go softly patio

Debhnams Etams Miss Sixty Sonoma Original clothing co.

Charter Club Cacique Banana Republic NORDSTROM

Belk George Kim Rogers intimates Ann Taylor LOFT

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 Kohl's Venezia Chico's MAX&Co.

LIZ&ME Kenneth Cole Sean jean JM Collection

ELLE Style co. Avenue Eds

Schott Etam Croft & Barrow . Red camel

Essentials White Stag Karen Scott Basic Editions

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Chapter 2: Background of the project
About the project
For the period of three and a half months, I interned in Gaurav International which is
located in phase 1 udyog vihar, Gurgaon. It was a great learning experience to work in
richa groups which is a manufacturer and exporter of womens wear, kids wear, mens
wear and home furnishing products.

Exporting is a complex and challenging activity in todays dynamic world environment

as it involves the performance of operations that determine existing and potential demand
in a market. Export house has various departments that functions in a synchronized
manner to make the export process successful.

All the departments are equally important to carry out the export process effectively but
the merchandising department plays a vital role in getting the export orders. Thus,
selecting a project on process of merchandising department was an important decision.

Project objectives
To understand the importance of product development in an export house.
To analyze the work process of designing department.
To analyze the work process of the merchandising department.
To analyze the day-to-day challenges faced by the design and merchandising
process and how the workforce adapts to changes at work.
To understand the important of sampling process in export business.
To have in-depth knowledge about various departments in an export house that
helps in carrying out the export process successfully.

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Chapter 3: Review of literature
Export Sector of Indian Economy has improved immensely over the years and has earned
US $ 125 billion in the current fiscal year. The goods exported from India mainly include
wide variety of agricultural products, chemicals, jewelry, garments, leather goods
and so on.
India has developed business relations with a number of foreign countries like the
member countries of SAARC, some Eastern European countries as well as African
countries, Members of EU. The impressive list of countries includes:

Russia
UAE
USA
Hong Kong
UK
Japan
Germany
Singapore
Belgium
Malaysia
Netherlands
Bangladesh
Italy
Thailand
France
Australia
Belgium

The major export products of India hail from the following divisions within the
export sector of Indian economy like:

Engineering Goods
Agricultural Products
Chemicals
Marine Products
Petroleum products
Leather Goods
Textiles
Plantations

Textile industry in India

India is the second largest producer of textiles and garments in the world.
The textile and apparel industry can be broadly divided into two segments - yarn and
fiber, and processed fabrics and apparel. India accounts for 14 per cent of the world's
production of textile fibers and yarns (largest producer of jute, second largest producer

8
of silk and cotton, and third largest in cellulosic fiber). India has the highest loom
capacity (including hand looms) with 63 per cent of the world's market share.
The domestic textile and apparel industry in India is estimated to reach US$ 141 billion
by 2021 from US$ 67 billion in 2014. Increased penetration of organized retail,
favorable demographics, and rising income levels are likely to drive demand for textiles.

Textile and apparel exports from India are expected to increase to US$ 82 billion by 2021
from US$ 40 billion in 2014. Readymade garments remain the largest contributor to total
textile and apparel exports from India. In FY15 the segment had a share of 40 per cent of
all textile and apparel exports. Cotton and man-made textiles were the other major
contributors with shares of 31 per cent and 16 per cent, respectively.

Rising government focus and favorable policies is leading to growth in the textiles and
clothing industry. Foreign direct investment (FDI) in textile sector increased to US$
1,587.8 million in FY15 from US$ 1,424.9 million in FY14. The Ministry of Textiles is
encouraging investments through increasing focus on schemes such as Technology Up-
gradation Fund Scheme (TUFS). To promote apparel exports, 12 locations have been
approved by the government to set up apparel parks for exports. As per the 12th Five
Year Plan, the Government plans to provide a budgetary support of US$ 4.25 billion to
textiles. Free trade with ASEAN countries and proposed agreement with European Union
will also help boost exports.

Contribution to employment generation

The textiles industry has made a major contribution to the national economy in terms of
direct and indirect employment generation and net foreign exchange earnings. The sector
contributes about 14 per cent to industrial production, 4 per cent to the gross domestic
product (GDP), and 27 per cent to the country's foreign exchange inflows. It provides
direct employment to over 45 million people. The textiles sector is the second largest
provider of employment after agriculture. Thus, growth and all round development of this
industry has a direct bearing on the improvement of the Indias economy.

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 Chapter 4: Methodology
The primary objective of doing this project was to understand the first-hand knowledge
of the designing and merchandising process in an export house. Thus, an observational
method was required which involves systematically watching and recording what people
say and do.

Thus, project research methodology is as follows:

o In Primary data, observational method to do a research has been adopted and

in-depth interviews were conducted that included nonstructured open-
ended questions.
o In Secondary data, both internal & external research was done. For internal
research Ready to use documents available with the organization were used. For
external research we visited various exhibitions to see the upcoming trends in
designing and Internet website were consulted.

4.1 Designing
Designing is simply creating or an innovation of an idea. A development of design
requires rigorous involvement and it requires a systematic process to formulate a design.
Designers must be able to convey their ideas through their designs effectively.

If a designer is creative and is blessed with artistic talent then the outcome will obviously
be highly enhanced. Every designer need10s a methodology for approaching problems
and each designer or a group of designers need a specific format that will assist them in
making their work simpler and more effective.

Irrespective of the stages in the design process there are certain factors which have to be
dealt with before starting the works. Some of these may be:

Identify the target market - The market that a firm is catering to is segregated on the
basis of gender, age, social and economic segment. Here the market is a group of people
or the consumers. Each market segment is going to have different requirements and
expectations from a design and all of these have to be satisfied by the designer, in order
to make it a success.

Maintaining an Identity for the brand - Every company has a specific look and caters
to a particular clientele. The price ranges are also fixed since generally they cater to a
specific target market. All this has to remain more or less constant so that the company
has a proper brand identity.

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Designing department is also considered as the research and development department of
the clothing factory because this is a department where garment prototypes are developed
for selling and production. Mostly in all the clothing factories, process of product
development consists of seven stages:

Forecasting
Designing
Collection Planning
Pattern Making
Technology
Production of sample garments
Pattern Grading

4.1.1 Developing fashion designs

The Color Story

Generating a color story is very important. Your scheme could be monochromatic or

complimentary, but no matter what story you choose, they must go well together.

Some designers select an image, or series of images, to display their color story. Others
use forecasting services which offer a variety of different color swatches, silhouette, and
textile forecasts. Once you select your first color story, you are able to utilize Pantone to
develop color standards. Pantone functions as both a trend and color forecasting site.
They are also the industry standard for identifying colors. Each color swatch is labeled
and categorized with numbers and letters, allowing you to easily find the true color.

Design Illustration and Silhouette

Customer satisfaction and functionality plays a big role in designing a garment. The
designer and product developer have to take into consideration what their customer
desires in a specific garment. It could be anything from adding a back pocket on a cycling
jacket or a forearm pocket for a runners phone. By balancing function with design, you
create a garment that fits brand desires with customer wants and needs.

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There really is a science to developing the silhouette of the garment. Large brands have
the designers, fashion forecasters, merchandisers, and product developers work together
to determine which direction they go. Smaller labels, where most positions are combined,
should still take into consideration each position while moving from concept to technical
sketch.

Technical Design and Tech Packs

The world of design is never as easy and glamorous as it looks. From demographic and
trend research, finding your brands voice, and narrowing down your collection, the
entire process can get a bit overwhelming. But, one of the most important pieces of the
development puzzle is the Technical Design. Though many people do not know about
this process, developing the technical sketch and technical package is essential to move
onto Production.
The technical package is similar to the blueprint of the design. It shows graphic
placement, points of measure, graded measurements, trim placement, seams, etc.
Manufacturing a garment without a tech pack would be like putting together a puzzle
without the picture on the front of the puzzle box. The factory would be assembling the
pattern blind, making educated guesses where certain pieces go. No one wants to do that.

Costs for Tech Packs vary depending on the complexity of the garment, so it is important
to do your research. It is not always about the lowest price, but the greatest value. There
are typically three factors that determine which design studio and factory you chose:
price, quality, and speed; and you can only pick two. You will pay more for quality and
speed, but you cannot have great quality, fast turnover, and a low price. Deciding which
two factors are most important will help you to choose your vendor.

The industry standard for the development of technical illustrations is Adobes Illustrator.
This program allows you to accurately work alongside the curves and seams of the

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garment. This vector based program ensures that details are captured without any grainy
or pixilated lines.

Patterns and Grading

This is the last step in the development process. Garment patterns are the key ingredient
to fit and styling. More returns happen because of fit issues than any other reason,
especially among online sales. A well fit garment will also be worn more often and spend
less time in your customers closet, which increases brand awareness and follow-up sales.

*You can create patterns in two ways. The first, and easiest to work with, is digital
patterns. These are created on a computer and able to be sent quickly and fairly easily
between vendors. The second method is by hand drawing the pattern pieces. You are able
to use either type of pattern when moving to production, however, each factory has
different requirements, and so flexibility is key.

4.2 Merchandising
Export merchandising is a method of offering retail goods for sale in a foreign consumer
market. Many large companies across the country maintain entire divisions devoted to
finding ways to better enter foreign retail markets through export merchandising to
increase profit and sustain growth. Merchandising department is considered as an
important department to run an export house successfully.

4.2.1 Merchandiser
Merchandisers are the mediator between the customer or buyer and the internal
production team. The function of the merchandising department begins with the sourcing
for the new order or the repeat order and continues till the shipment deadline has met.
Merchandisers act as a link between the export house and the buying house. They know
what buyers want and what the company is able to and willing to deliver. They are
responsible for timely execution of the orders.

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The merchandiser coordinates with the design team to effectively present the product or
product line. He or she develops colors and specifications, and performs market research
to determine the most effective ways to sell and promote the product. This person needs
strong communication and negotiation skills and visual and analytical abilities. He or she
also needs to be a creative and innovative thinker.

4.2.1 Role of a merchandiser

The major responsibility of a merchandiser in an export house includes the following:

Internal and External Communication

Communicate with buyers, buying houses and material suppliers. On the other
hand they are responsible for downloading information received from buyers, like
buyers comments on the sample, buyers requirements on new developments,
new pricing details of raw material etc.

Internal communication includes providing information to accounts department,

shipping and documentation department, sourcing department etc.

Garment Sampling
Without sample development export house cannot think of doing export business.
Sampling is one way to attract customers for bulk orders. Merchandising team
take full responsibility of developing samples at various stages, like Proto sample,
size set sample, salesman sample etc. They source all required material for the
sampling, download sample construction to sampling master and sampling tailors.
Send samples to buyers for approvals

Lab Dip Development

Lap dip development for dyed fabrics and take approval on lap dips from buyers.
This is done from fabric suppliers.

Accessories & Trims Sourcing

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 Finding suppliers for accessories and trims for the samples and bulk orders

Preparing Production file

They make production file for production and quality department with all
necessary information required to process bulk orders. They handover production
order to production head and production process starts from cutting to final
inspection.

Preparing of Bill of Material

Merchandising team is responsible for making consumption of fabric and trims
for bulk orders. Once consumption is approved they make Bill of Materials
(BOM) and raise purchase order to source all raw materials.

Production Follow up
Once production started, merchandisers do continuous follow up for production
with in-house production team and subcontracting factories. This way they keep
production and shipment delivery on time.

Follow up of Shipment
Last but not the least, they do follow up of shipment with buyers and send
shipment related document to buyer.

4.3 Product Development

Product development is a process of designing a new product line and considering the
production feasibility of the product which is new in the market in order to ensure the
growth and survival of the organization. Product development is a complex process
which requires a lot of thought process as well as excellent practical skills. The process of
product development begins with idea generation and ends with product pricing.

In the product development process, merchandiser coordinates with the designer and
helps them in idea generation and idea screening. Since the product should be production
feasible and viable in the market, it is necessary that the concept for product development

15
should clear and tested. Also market analysis and technical implementation is required
before product pricing is done. Product pricing is later conveyed to the concerned buyer.

4.3.1 Roles and responsibilities of a merchandiser

Product Development
Market and Product Analysis
Selling the concept
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Costing Raw Material
Flow Monitoring Production
Follow Ups Payments
Follows Internal & external communication
Sampling Lab dips Accessories & trims
Preparing internal order sheets
Preparing purchase orders
Advising and assisting production
Advising quality department about quality level
Mediating production and quality departments
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following up the shipment.

4.4 Garment Sampling

Garment sampling is a very crucial stage in fashion merchandising. Thus it is very
important for a merchandiser to carry out this process effectively. Usually all the buyers
place bulk orders only when they are satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the
sampling. Sampling department makes samples according to the buyers specifications
and requirements. The samples decide the ability of the exporters to deal with the given
styles of garment. Sampling process is a complex and time bound process but it plays an

16
important part in attracting export orders from the buyers. Before placing an order a
buyer wants to know whether the export house is capable of developing design samples
of desired quality and style. Thus, it is essential that the samples are innovative and
should be manufactured at optimum quality.

Purpose of sampling

To allow the buyer to see the production capabilities of an exporter.

To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption of a garment,
and develop cost quotations.

4.4.1 Sampling Process

Sampling process in the merchandising department varies continuously; the development
process covers a huge range of innovative design samples of new fabrics, different
blends, different finishes and type different technologies used to develop a garment.

4.5 Department Structure

fabric store
purchase department
sampling department
cutting department
trims and accessory store
merchandising department
production department
CAD department
finishing department
washing department
packing department
shipping department

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 Fabric store

Gaurav International, udyog had their own fabric store and all the necessary
fabrics were made available from the 219 unit, Gurgaon. The main fabric store
of Gaurav International was at 219 unit. When the fabric is sourced and
brought to the company, they are stored in the factorys fabric storage area
and it is the responsibility of fabric stores department. From here, the fabric is
taken for inspection and then stored in specific locations from where it is
issued for cutting.

Cutting department

The cutting floor of Gaurav International Pvt. Ltd. has acquired a good
amount of space. It is located in the basement of the factory and includes the following
department:

Fabric Store, Trim Store, Spreading and Re Cutting Area, Bundling and Ticketing
Area

Trims and accessory store

Trims & Accessory store of Gaurav Internationa pvt. ltd is quite huge and has variety of
laces, buttons all the necessary trims.

When need of items arises, it is communicated to the purchase department which places
the order and the goods are then received.

Workforce

4 staff members

6 helpers

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 Finishing department

Finishing department of Gaurav International pvt. ltd is located at the second floor of the
unit 225 along with Packing and Dispatch Department. The various jobs done in the
finishing department are:

Thread Cutting, Spotting, Initial Checking, Pressing, Tagging, Measurement

Checking, Final Checking

Washing department
Washing department at Gaurav International had a workforce of 40
employees. Types of machines available were:
8 washing machines (for softner wash, enzyme wash, dying, 5 tumblers
(dryer), 3 machines for acid wash. Total capacity of the washing
department was 10000-12000 pieces per day.

Sampling department
Sampling department at Gaurav International is situated on the ground
floor with the merchandising department. Per day efficiency of the
sampling department was 2.5 to 4 pieces per day.

Merchandising department
Merchandising department in Gaurav International exports is situated on
the ground floor of the unit. The merchandising department has 3 teams.
Each team consisted\s of senior merchants, assistant merchants and trainee
merchants. Each team has one helper to help them out procuring fabrics
and trims.

19
Chapter5: Project Undertaken:

Product Development in an Export House

For the period of three and half months I worked in the design and merchandising
department of Gaurav International, udyog vihar. After working in the designing and
merchandising department I was able to understand the importance of product
development process in the export business and I had an in depth knowledge about the
sampling process and how different departments work in order to make the export
process successful.

To understand the process of products development, one must have in depth knowledge
about the range development process which is the first step towards the product
development.

5.1 PROJECT 1: RANGE DEVELOPMENT IN THE DESIGN

DEPARTMENT
Range development is a process of designing a whole new collection for a buyer for a
particular season. This process is done by a team of designers in an export house. The
work of designers is to do trend analysis or trend forecasting for a particular season and
develop a new range of collection based on that analysis.

So basically, product or range development is process of trend and market research,

merchandising design and the development of the final product.

During the internship, project on development of spring/ summer collection was assigned
to the designing team. New collections were developed for different buyers; Ann Taylor
LOFT, Ann Taylor Store, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, J.Jill, Lucky Brand,
American Eagle Outlet, Talbots to name a few.

Range Development can be a very complex and time bound process but it is also very
interesting. Before starting the process of range development it is very important to know
about the brand or the buyer for which the collection has to be prepared. For this a
designer needs to study about the brand, its target market, its concept and its previous
collection.

This gives a designer clear knowledge about the buyers specifications and requirements.
For example, Calvin Klein does not prefer bright colors or heavy embroidery in its
collection. Therefore, making a range using bright colors for Calvin Klein could be a
disaster and can cost a huge amount and a client to the organization.

20
Thus, range development process requires creativity and skills and with that a designer
must have a particular method to carry out the process. Specific pattern helps a designer
to complete the process in time; also it helps to follow up each and every step involved in
the range development process.

The process of range development is carried out by a designing team which includes;
product manager, senior designers, junior designers, graphic designers and assistant
designers. There is a constant coordination and communication between the designing
and the merchandising department because merchandisers stays in one to one contact
with the buyers so they are aware of the specifications and the quality of designs that the
buyers are expecting from the exporters and the costing process of all the design samples
made is done by the merchandisers after the range is developed. Thus, there should be a
smooth communication between the designers and the merchandisers.

Before developing a new line of collection and even before doing the trend analysis, a
designer should be familiar certain terms that are important for the process of range
development. These are as follows;

Product range
Product range refers to the new line of product that is made for a particular
market. For example, developing a new range for spring/ summer collection for
lucky brand (age group: 30-40years)

Style
Style refers to a distinct aspect that appears in all the garments in range
development. It can be determined by the type of fabric used, type of techniques
used to make a garment or an inspiration behind developing the whole range. For
example, style can be contemporary, classic or modern.

Theme/ concept
It refers to a story from where ideas are drawn to create a unified look.

Mood board/ story board

Mood board is the visual representation of the theme or story. This varies from
season to season and from buyer to buyer.

21
 Collection

Collection is a group of products or garments that have a common element linking

them to each other. This common element could be design, finish or raw material
used.

These are the basic terms that a designer working in an export house must be
aware of to carry out the designing process smoothly.

A successful range development process is a result of collective team effort of the

designing and the merchandising team.

While I was working with the designing team I was required to coordinate with
senior designer, product manager, the merchandising team and various other
departments.

Projects objective
Main purpose or objective for this project was to;

Create innovative collection for different buyers

Make quality products at the minimum cost possible
Get maximum selection on design samples
Attract maximum orders in future
Attract more buyers
Complete the process on time

Project description
Project under the designing department included the following job description;

Trend analysis and research

Mood board study
Making color story
Designing bodies and silhouettes
Fabric and trim sourcing
Getting patterns made for design samples
Following the sampling process

22
 Developing a product range
Sending design mock ups (embroidery mock ups etc.)
Sending design range for presentation
Taking follow up from my seniors regarding any selections from the buyer
Taking follow up from the buying house, if required
Thereby making changes in the design samples as per the buyers instructions
Conveying the same to the product manager and the merchandising team.

During the internship program they got new design collection for spring/ summer17
developed for different buyers. To name a few, ANN TAYLOR LOFT, ANN
TAYLOR STORE, CALVIN KLEIN, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, J.JILL, TALBOTS,
LUCKY BRANDS, AMERICAN EAGLE OUTLET, ABERCROMBIE AND
FITCH etc.

Range development process

While developing a range, a designer must keep certain things in mind in order to carry
out the process successful and in the best interest of the company. Every decision
regarding the development of range should base on the following factors;

Season selected: the season for which a designer has to develop a range. For
example, range can be developed for pre-spring season, spring/ summer, fall/
winter, holiday season etc.
Market: a designer must be clear about the market for which the range has to be
made. A market can have various segments on the basis of gender, age,
geographic etc. for example; we had to develop a collection for modern women of
age group 30 to 40.
Brand identity: a designer should know about the brands identity i.e. personality
of a brand and its market.
Companys ability: the main motive of any export house is to get the maximum
orders in order to generate maximum profits. Therefore, a designer working in an
export house should know about the companys strengths and constraints. If any
decision is made which is beyond the companys limit then it can bring loses to
the company.
Price category: for every buyer there is a different price category for developing
garment samples. Garments made of a premium brand can be relatively high
priced because of different types of techniques applied in making the garment.

These are the important factors that help the designing team and the merchandising team
to set a pattern for completing the tasks effectively on time.

23
Before we begin with the range development process, we were required to have a mood
board ready of a respective brand, which consists of the visual presentation of the brands
concept for a particular season. Mood board explains the color story and the ideas on the
basis of which a designer is suppose to develop a range. Mood board gives an idea of
what the collection will look like. A designer should be creative but he/she must develop
a collection which is inspired by the brands mood board only. This is because every
buyer has different expectations and requirements regarding their collection and a
designer must work on to fulfill those.

Steps involved in the process of range development can be as follows;

Season selection
During the internship, design team worked on developing new range of high fashion
women garments for spring/ summer season for the year 2017. For a particular season
there is a different color story and theme. Usually all of the manufacturers of women
apparel follow four different seasons i.e. spring, summer, fall and holiday.

Trend analysis and fashion forecasting

Trend analysis is basically a study of upcoming trends in fashion. Designers,
merchandisers and buyers must learn to predict trends, which are new directions in
fashion. Trend analysis is done a year or two in advance. Therefore, designers,
merchandisers, buyers and retailers must work together to anticipate customers needs to
be the successful fashion forecasters of the future.

Fashion forecasting involves;

Studying market conditions- consumer buying behavior.

Noting consumers lifestyle.
Establishing sales trends.
Evaluating popular designers collection.
Surveying fashion catalogues and design services from all over the world.
Observing street fashion; what people are wearing and what celebrities are
wearing.
Keeping up with the current events, mood of the public.

For fashion forecasting, designers also refer to certain websites such as WGSN,
STYLE SITE and FIBRE TO FABRIC.

Following pictures depict some future trends predicted by WGSN for spring summer
collection 17 for women apparel.

24
Figure 1: inspirations from wgsn

25
Mood board
Story making or mood board making is followed by fashion forecasting. Here designers
consider all the factors to be taken into account while forecasting for a new product. For
example, if we are working on women apparel then we must add all the accessories that
would tune in with the product forecasted. Based on this, team has to decide the graphics
for prints, embroidery, styling etc.

Fabric and trim sourcing

After the mood board has been approved by the buyers, next step for a designer is to
source fabric and trims according to the buyers requirements and which goes with the
story in the mood board.

Developing design sheets

Based on the inspiration from the mood board a designer makes design sheets for the new
line of product. Keeping the theme in the mind, a designer incorporates a pleasing
combination of all the design elements; color, fabric, line, and shape of each garment.
Based on this designer make sketch of different bodies of garment and silhouettes.

Pattern making
After finalizing the design sheets, they must be sent for pattern making. Pattern can be
made manually or they can also be computer generated. After pattern making is done,
sampling process will start.

Sampling
Sampling process is the process in which the garment is made. It involves cutting,
stitching, embroidery process.

Finishing
After a garment is stitched, it undergoes various techniques to give a specific texture or a
finish to the garment. Techniques for finishes vary from garment to garment. It can be a
specific wash or treatment applied to a garment to get the desired results.

Presentation
After the garments have been made they are arranged according to a story in a showroom
in order to present it to the buyer.

These were the steps are just an overview of the range development process. The process
continues even after the meeting is held. In the meeting, designers, merchandisers, buyers
and retailers discuss about the new collection made by the manufacturer and they give a
review on that. The buyers make selections out of that collection also suggest the changes
to be made in the regarding the designing, fit or the look of the garment. This information

26
is important for the future collection and for the product development process that
continues.

Following are the examples for a range development process that was a part of my
internship project;

Range development for Ann Taylor brand for spring/ summer17

27
Mood board of Ann Taylor LOFT spring/summer16

Figure 2: inspiration taken from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17

As discussed earlier, mood board is a visual depiction or presentation of the brands

theme or story for a particular season. Above pictures are the references taken from the
Ann Taylor mood board for spring/ summer17. To begin with the process of range
development, a designer must analyze the mood board first and then draw interpretations
out of it.

28
Figure 3: inspirations from Ann Taylor mood board spring/ summer'17

Analyzing a mood board means; preparing a color story for the range, understanding the
concept about garment bodies, garment fits, fabrics, stitch detailing etc.

Analyzing Ann Taylors mood board, it can be interpreted that the collections that they
desire for the spring/ summer season should be clean, subtle, with minimalistic detailing
in terms of prints or contrast tipping in the garment. Also there mood board is inspired
with different types of lace and free flow fabrics, different types of techniques used to
combine lace fabrics with other forms of fabrics.

Therefore, a designer must analyze all such factors in terms of style, color story, garment
bodies, garment construction, stitching techniques and the treatment to be applied on a
garment to give certain type of finish to the sample.

All of these factors must be analyzed carefully before proceeding with the development
process. Throughout the process a designer must stick to these interpretations only.

29
Ann Taylors mood board
was inspired by soft and
delicate color scheme.
Such as soft pastels of
pink, cream shades to
give the airy look, and
subtle shades of brown,
green

30
 After the color story has been decided by
the designer, next step is to analyze the trim
or embroidery detailing in the mood board.
A designer must incorporate maximum trim
and stitch details in its collection that goes
with theme in the mood board.

Keeping that in mind, designer sources all

kinds of fabric and trims for the collection
that is similar to those in the mood board.

These references from Ann Taylor mood

board depicts the design, stitch and trim
details that must be considered while the
range development process.

Figure 4: trim and stitch techniques A designer sources similar kind of fabric and
trims so deliver the desired design collection
to the buyer.
31
Design sheets
After a designer sources all the raw material required, the next step that follows is to
make design sheets. While making design sheets a designer must keep that in mind that
for which market we are suppose to design a collection. This is because the style, look, fit
and construction of a garment varies throughout different market segments.

For Ann Taylor LOFT our target market was modern women in U.S., aged between 30 to
40 years, working or home makers with family.

Based on this segment, we prepared following designs with different variations in style
and garment construction.

32
Figure 5: design sheet and sample

33
34
35
36
37
These were some of the design samples made for Ann Tayor LOFT for spring/
summer17.

After the collection is ready, a meeting is held where the collection made is presented to
the buyer. People presented in meeting includes general manager, product manager,
senior designer and the buyer team.

For the meeting, designer set up a whole showroom according to the theme they have
selected. All the design samples are displayed in a manner so that they form a story. Story
can differ according to the color, fit, stitch, finish of the gament. All the samples must
have sample lables that mentions the fabric content, style no. of a design sample.

The buyer then review the design collection and give comments on it. the buyer provide
comments if the buyer wants any changes in the fit, design or the quality of the garment.
If there are no changes, buyer can simply approve it for the next step.

38
FINDINGS AND RECOMMENDED SOLUTIONS
Current scenario Problems faced Probable solutions
Labor Poor quality Proper training program should be held in the
inefficiency of samples, company premises on monthly basis for the
poor finish in workers in the sampling department, to make
garments. them familiar with new stitching techniques
and enhance their product knowledge in
terms of its construction, design, stitch,
quality of the fabric.
Understaffed Patterns not During the design meetings, the major
CAD department made on problem faced by the design department was
time, hence that the patterns were not made on time
delayed because of less number of pattern masters
process and therefore the samples were not made on
time and they lacked quality in terms of
finishing and stitch. As a result, design
department did not receive good response on
the design samples. This problem was
conveyed to the management after 2-3
design meetings. Then the management
decided to hire CAD masters only for the
design department.
Focus on making Lack of Initially the designers focused on making the
maximum innovation maximum number of design samples as
number of due to time possible for every design meeting. As a result,
design samples constraint the design samples that were made lacked
possible and less man innovation and quality. This approach was
power not fetching good results in terms of
selections from the buyer. Therefore,
considering the inefficiency in the sampling
department and time constraints, the
management later decided to make limited
number of samples but with good quality and
finish.
Improper Confusion Proper documentation of the design sheet
documentation regarding the with exact style number, fabric and trim
and record selection on details was not being followed in the
maintenance design department. Due to this, it used to create
samples, unnecessary hassle whenever there was a
unnecessary selection on any design sample from a buyer.
hassle in the As a result, it became impossible to check
department. which design has been selected in which
fabric quality. Therefore, proper method for
filing and documentation was recommended
to the department.

39
These were the problems analyzed while working in the design department.

Out of the solutions given, some were implemented by the management and some were
taken into consideration and were still under the planning stage. The solutions that were
implemented fetched good results to the department as well as the company.

Problem of sampling inefficiency

Major problem faced during the range development existed in the sampling department.
Inexperience and lack of product knowledge amongst the operators resulted in slow
sampling process and poor quality of samples. Therefore, a proper training program was
highly recommended for the sampling department. Training program to make them aware
with old and new stitching techniques, fabric quality and innovative stitches was
recommended. Organizing a training program for operators was not in the companys
policy. But when the problem was conveyed to the management regarding low
productivity and poor quality of samples, management decided to look into this
problem more deeply and plan accordingly in the best interest of the company.

Less number of pattern masters.

Design sampling can be complex process. And its most important stage is pattern making
because without the correct pattern design sampling could go completely wrong. In the
department there were 3 pattern masters who were handling three different pattern
making accounts of the merchandising department. They also made design patterns but
the output was very low; 1-2 design patterns in a day. As a result, patterns are not ready
on time and the whole process gets delayed. Due to overload of work sampling could not
been done properly. Thus, there was clearly a need for more pattern making masters in
the CAD department.

The management decided to implement the solution of hiring 2 more pattern

masters just for the design department. As a result, the range development process
was carried out smoothly for the further design meeting.

Two new patterns masters used to make patterns manually and outcome was 7-8
patterns each in a day.

Focus on quantity of the samples

As suggested by the general manager and the product manager, initially the designing
team was supposed to make 150-200 design samples per meeting. As a result, samples
used to lack quality and finish. The designing team was handling three to four accounts at
once sometimes, which made it difficult for them to innovate and deliver desired results
in such short span of time. When the same kind of problem was faced in further meetings,
the department saw a gradual decrease in a number of design samples selected. . For

40
examples; out 200 hundred samples, selections used to be for 10-15 samples, which is
very less. The design samples that were made ready at the last moment did not have style
number mentioned and the some of the design samples did not even had a record of
quality of fabric, fabric source for future reference. Such small management problems
lead to hassle and confusion in the organization. Therefore, to avoid this scenario on
future, designers and the product manager decided to make limited number of design
samples so that more focus could be given to the finish and quality of the samples. Then
for future design meetings, designers use to make 80-100 design samples. This approach
was proved to be beneficial for the organization.

Our manufacturing unit also received an award for most clean and flexible collection for
Ann Taylor spring/summer collection17.

Improper documentation
Every designer needs to keep a record of each and every design sample. This record
includes; design sheets, details of all the vendors from where the fabric and trims have
been sourced, garment details with proper style numbers, fabric content, and pattern no,
variations in design sample. This record helps a designer to answer any query regarding,
design, fabric or finish of the sample.

Since proper documentation procedure was not followed in this unit, as a result there use
to be a lot of confusion regarding the selection of the design sample.

The department must prepare proper excel sheets for each and every range developed.
The designers to keep an organized record of each design sample with their proper style
no. fabric details and also the number of steps under which the sample has undergone
from pattern making to the finishing of the garment. This would also help the designers to
analyze their process at each and every step in terms of time taken to complete the
designing process.

Later, proper filing and documentation procedure were followed in the department that
made the management process smoother than before. Proper filing and systematic
preparation of excel sheets helped the designers to avoid unnecessary piling of paper
work and confusion regarding and the selection of design samples.

41
PROJECT 2: SAMPLING IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

After the collection is presented to the concerned buyer, next step is to seek response
from them regarding any selection of design samples. From this point onwards the
process of product development is shifted from design department to the merchandising
process.

A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the
quality of production and timely delivery. The function of the merchandising department
begins with the sourcing for the new order or the repeat order and continues till the
shipment deadline has met. Merchandisers act as mediators between the export house and
the buying house. They know what buyers want and what the company is able to and
willing to deliver. They are responsible for timely execution of the orders.

Project description
Product Development
Receiving tech pack from the buyer
Sampling according to the buyers tech pack
Placing orders for fabrics and trims
Confirming Deliveries
Designing and Sampling
Follows Internal & external communication
Sending lab dips, bit loom and strike offs for approval
Preparing program sheets
Advising quality department about quality level
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping
Have basic knowledge of costing

Role of the Department

To look for the appropriate market

To get the samples made according to the buyers specification

42
 To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with
them
Getting orders
Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production
Co-coordinating with the PPC and production

Activities of a Merchandiser

To get orders &Order confirmation:

Buyer directly communicates with the merchandiser in order to place the order. Fixed
buyers are allotted to merchandisers and the communication is between the buyer and
that particular merchant. After the approval of the development samples, the order is
confirmed by the buyer. Merchandiser receives the PO sheet. Then he fixes up the PCD
and delivery date with the buyer

Process Flowchart; Presentation from buyer/for buyer

Development Sample

Range Planning

Confirm Costing

Confirm Delivery

PO Received (i.e. order

approved)

43
Costing:

Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and their
requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser.
To arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into
consideration:

Calculation of consumption of fabric (yields per yard) and threads to produce

one garment
Calculation of cost of fabric per garment
Calculation of cost of trims and threads
Cut-make cost
Poly bag cost
Cost of carton box
Cost of the garment is mutually determined by the manufacturer and the contractor.
Costing is an exact calculation by the sourcing department and the contractor, using the
actual figures for material and labor, based on how long does it takes to make the entire
garment.

They use the designers worksheet, prototype garment and the production pattern to
analyze the material used and garment construction. Usually the final costs are mutually
agreed on between the manufactures and the contractor based on the production costs and
the similar type of garment made last season.

A detailed cost analysis may be made for each garment, included expenses for fabric,
trims, cutting, labor, overheads, sales commission and manufacturers profit.

Factors that are taken into consideration for costing are as follows;

Material
Trims
Production pattern making, grading , marking
CMT
Finishing
Freight

44
 Calculation of Average

For Buyer: Average is found by Pattern Master only for Costing Purpose.

For Company: Average is found out by cutting department for production

purpose to determine how much fabric is used in production in making an
garment and difference between both average is net profit.

Sampling:

Merchandiser is involved in coordinating with the sampling department. Based on the

mutual agreement between the merchant and the buyer, sampling department is works on
making samples. In every step of samples, buyer sends back comments along with the
tech pack.

Sampling is the product development stage. This department makes samples on the basis
of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer.

Types of Sample

1. Buying/Development Sample: It is the reflection of the first techpack or design

sheet received from the buyer. The sample is sent to the buyer for the design
approval. Proto sample is made in the base size. Styling is important. The
comments and second tech pack is sent back referring changes in the sample

45
 2. Fit sample: The comments are received regarding the shape, size and fullness.
The sample is checked for fit on body forms. It is made in exact fabric, though
print maybe different, since the drape and fit are to be checked.

3. Second fit sample: It is similar to the first fit sample made with a few changes
according to comments received from the buyer. Again a third or fourth fit sample
may be required to be made. After approval of fit sample, order is confirmed
along with all the specifications.

4. Pre-production/sealer sample: This sample is known as the bible of production.

It is done for the base size of any one color and actual fabric and actual trims are
used. If this sample is approved and the buyer attached some tag to this sample to
ensure the approval.

5. GPT sample: These samples are made for garment testing for seam-slippage,
tearing strength, button pulling etc.

6. TOP (top of production) sample: It is the best sample from first of bulk
production. Sometimes TOP sample is also called shipment sample.

7. Salesman sample: It is made for the buyer to find out the opinion of the store
owners whether the style would sell in the market or not, and the demand of that
product.

Stages of Sampling for Product Development

Buyers sending his tech pack, defining the requirements. Pinned Sample might
also be received.

46
 Patterns are developed by the masters with necessary amendments in the pinned
sample.
Fit samples are developed.
By the time fit sample develop fabric color, thread runs, embroidery mocks, lace
mock etc are sent for approval.
The necessary tests are done on the fabrics and trims.
First fit after QA review and buying house QA review is sent to the buyer.
If it gets approved well and good else 2nd and 3rd fits are made.
Once the sample gets approved the Market adopt sample and the GPT samples are
developed.
Also 3pcs cutting is sent to the production unit for checking production
feasibility.
After the three pieces report, comes sealers and size sets are developed.
By the time we reach the sealers level the bulk fabric is sources, trims are sources,
and all these receive approvals. The garment test report is passed and other test i
The costing gets finalized.
Before the PPM occurs the complete working on the garment is done all the tests
should be passed.
During the internship program, samples for holiday16 were developed.
Sampling process in the merchandising department is same as in the designing
department. But in the merchandising department, samples are developed exactly
according the buyers tech pack. Therefore, fit and techniques for garment
construction should be precisely according to the specifications given by the
buyer.

Workforce of Sampling Department

Workforce of the sampling department at Gaurav International Pvt. Ltd was as follows:

Total no. of operators- 27

1 supervisor

47
 Total machinery- 40 machines
o 5 over lock machines (5 thread, 4 thread, 1 baby over lock),
o 1 machine for picoting,
o 1 machine for kaj button
o 28 single needle machines
o 7 double needle machines
Per day efficiency of the sampling department was 80 pieces and efficiency per operator
was 2.96 pieces per day.
Workflow of Sampling Department

Sample Requisition sent by Merchandiser along with

Fabric & Trims

Patterns are made as per PO

Cutting

Stitching

Washing

Measurement Checking

Kaj Button

Finishing

Ironing

Packing

48
Preparing the time and action plan:

This is prepared by the merchant stating that all the different activities associated with the
order should be complete by the stipulated dates. It is like making sub goals to
accomplish the ultimate goal which is shipping of the order on the pre- decided date.

1. Preparing the bill of material: This enlists all the different materials required for
making the garment.

2. Execution: Merchandising department communicates with the buyer QA during

the production. He gets the approval of the quality or any changes in the garment.

3. Shipment of goods: According to delivery date the goods are shipped on time.
Documentation department is informed about the delivery date, the quantity etc.
In case of any delay, goods are sent through air on the companys country.

49
 Workflow of Merchandising Department
Presentation from buyer/for buyer

Development Sample

Range Planning

Confirm Costing

Confirm Delivery

Techpack & PO Received (i.e. order

approved)
Getting the pattern
made as per PO Sample Approval Process

Sample Requisition sent by

1st fit Fabric Approval (Lab dip, Fabric Swatch)
Merchandiser along with Fabric,
Trims & Pattern Sample
nd
2 fit Sample Send TNA Plan
Cutting
PP Sample Fabric Order
Stitching
GPT Sample Trims Approval
Washing
Ad Sample,
Salesman Sample Trims Order
Measurement Checking

Production begins Fabric/Trims Follow up

Kaj Button

TOP Sample Fabric/Trims In house

Finishing

Regular Tracking and Fabric Process Test (FPT)

Ironing
Update Buyer
Packing
Order Shipping
Sample Send to buyer
for approval

50
Findings and recommended solutions
CURRENT SCENAIRO PROBLEM FACED PROBABLE SOLUTIONS

Inexperienced Workers in the Workers in the sampling

labor sampling department were unable to
department understand the specifications
were and technicalities involved in
inexperienced the construction of the
in terms of garment. Due to which the
product quality of the samples was
knowledge and not up the mark. To enhance
technicality. As the skills of the labors and to
a result, the ensure optimum utilization
company was of its resources, the company
unable to meet must organize a training and
its deadlines for development programs or
sample delivery sessions in order to improve
and the the skills of the labor and
company was increase their productivity.
unable to
utilize its
resources at its
optimum level.
Unorganized Extended work A company must have a
department hours, internal strong and effective
structure conflicts among communication system and a
employees, well defined hierarchy
decrease in structure to ensure smooth
employees process within the
productivity department. Clearly defined
set of jobs and
responsibilities enables an
employee to focus on every
task effectively and in turn
increase their productivity.
At Gaurav International, the
merchandising department
was unorganized in terms of
hierarchy structure. There
was a need for the
management department to
plan solutions for the same.

51
Inexperienced labor
The maximum productivity of the sampling department at Gaurav International was 4
garments each operator per day. But the level of productivity fluctuated between 2-2.5
garments per operator per day. The major reason for not attaining the desired level of
productivity in the sampling department was that the workers were inadequate in terms of
skills and knowledge required for making the garment. Most of the tailors could not
understand and interpret the specifications mentioned in the tech pack given to them. Not
having a proper knowledge about the product, lead to confusion regarding the
construction of the garment, which often resulted in poor quality of samples. Sometimes
the stitching process was repeated if the garments were not stitched according the
specifications given, which in turn resulted in wastage of fabrics and trims and also
delayed the whole process.

To run a successful export business it is necessary that the delivery responsiveness of the
company is good and utilization of raw material is optimum. For every new buyer, it is
important for them to know whether an export house is capable of delivering the quality
products that they desire. In this, sampling process plays a major role.

At Gaurav International, there was an immediate need to improve its quality of the
sampling department. The R&D department of the company must take necessary
measures in order to reduce the inefficiency in the sampling department. Measures like,
organizing regular sessions for teaching the workers about technicalities involved in
stitching different types garment, organizing training programs to improve the skills of
the workers to help them enhance their productivity, teaching them about new
technologies being adopted. Such steps would help the company to improve its sampling
quality and would help them to carry out the process smoothly.

Unorganized department structure

Company with a strong organizational structure is benefited from improved
communication, a well-defined hierarchy and the ability to create a unified company
message. As efficient as organizational structure can be, it can also create problems that
can lead to loss of productivity and internal conflict. In order to maintain a strong
company framework, you need to be able to identify the problems within an
organizational structure and deal with them as they occur.

Unorganized merchandising department at Gaurav International created a hassle

throughout the merchandising process. Being space as a big constraint, the whole
department structure was very congested. The merchandising department at Gaurav
International suffered from low sustainability of employees. Due to which, there was
frequent change of managers and employees in the department. The new managers and
employees are unfamiliar with the work culture initially and hence they take time settling

52
in. this creates a delay in the wok process and the whole communication channel
becomes hampered. Delay in process created tension in the work environment and caused
internal conflicts among the employees.

Workers also faced confusion about who to report in case of any query related to the
garment sampling. Employees in the merchandising department often worked for 2 teams
at once due to excessive workload. In this way employee had to report to two different
seniors throughout. Also, none of the merchandising teams were given any helpers due to
which the junior merchandisers were responsible to do tasks like getting a garment
washed, sending the samples for finishing, cutting swatches. This affected the overall
productivity of the junior merchandisers.

Therefore, the HR department and the management department at Gaurav International

were required to address to this problem immediately and take necessary actions to
improve their overall productivity.

53
Chapter 6: Learning

Product development is a very crucial stage where a manufacturer can show its
ability to buyer that would help the manufacturer to attract maximum export
orders.
Innovation in terms of design samples is necessary but it should also be
production feasible. Without production feasibility innovation becomes less
relevant.

The merchandiser keeps the business running. They communicate with the buyer,
buying house and even with all the departments so as to get the work done as per
the deadlines.
It is always an advantage to know about different fabrics used, the kinds of trims
used for every buyer.
There are merchandisers team which includes Senior Merchant and Asst.
Merchant and Trainee Merchant and a helper which makes the work more
systematically and organized.
A designer and a merchandiser should have some knowledge about production
whether it could be cutting, stitching, washing or finishing. They must maintain
good relation with the department heads and the workers and they should be
updated to latest designs and trends in market.

54
References
business.mapsofindia.com

indianexpress.com

www.ibef.org

www.wgsn.com

www.fiber2fabric.com

www.pinterest.com

55
Appendices

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66
 (External Jury Examination Proceedings)

NIFT: MUMBAI

Proceedings of the MFM GRP External Jury Examination of Ms. Hashmeet

Kaur held at am/pm on in NIFT, Mumbai

The GRP Internal Jury Examination of Ms. Hashmeet Kaur on her MFM GRP
report entitled Product Development in an export house was conducted
in <NIFT Mumbai> at am/pm on .

The following members of the External Jury were present:

1. <Name, Designation & Address>

2. <Name, Designation & Address>

3. <Name, Designation & Address>

4. <Name, Designation & Address>

67
 RECOMMENDATION
The Research scholar Hashmeet Kaur has presented the salient features of
her GRP work. This was followed by questions from the External Jury
members. The questions raised by the Jury Examiners were also put to the
scholar. The scholar answered the questions to the full satisfaction of the
jury members.

Based on the scholars research work, his/her presentation and also the
clarifications and answers by the scholar to the questions, the board
recommends that Ms. Hashmeet Kaur be awarded the Master Degree in
"Master of Fashion Management (MFM)"

1. (Name of the Jury Member with Signature)

2. (Name of the Jury Member with Signature)

3. (Name of the Jury Member with Signature)

4. (Name of the Jury Member with Signature)

68