Lonely Planet Publications

CO NTE NT S
INTRODUCING TOKYO 2 SHOPPING 135
Imperial Palace
HIGHLIGHTS 4 & Marunouchi 136
Ginza 136
THE AUTHORS 15
Asakusa 138
GETTING STARTED 16 Central Tokyo 138
When To Go 16 Roppongi 139
Costs & Money 20 Ebisu & Daikanyama 140
Internet Resources 21 Shibuya 141
Harajuku & Aoyama 142
BACKGROUND 22
Shinjuku 145
History 22
Ikebukuro 146
Arts 30
Odaiba 147
Architecture 38
Environment & Planning 40 EATING 149
Government & Politics 41 Imperial Palace
Media 42 & Marunouchi 156
Central Tokyo 157
NEIGHBOURHOODS 43 Ginza 158
Itinerary Builder 46 Tsukiji & Shiodome 160
Imperial Palace Akihabara & Kanda 160
& Marunouchi 50
Ueno 161
Central Tokyo 55
Asakusa 162
Ginza 61
Akasaka 163
Tsukiji & Shiodome 64
Roppongi 164
Akihabara & Kanda 67
Ebisu & Daikanyama 165
Ueno 70
Shibuya 167
TOKYO POP 77
Harajuku & Aoyama 168
Asakusa 85
Shinjuku 169
Akasaka 91 Ikebukuro 171
Roppongi 94 Sumida River 173
Ebisu, Daikanyama Odaiba & Around 173
& Meguro 100
Shibuya 105 ENTERTAINMENT 175
Harajuku & Aoyama 109 Dance 177
Shinjuku 114 Opera 178
Ikebukuro 121 Classical Music 178
Sumida River 125 Bars 178
Odaiba 130 Karaoke 184
 Lonely Planet Publications

I NTRO DUCI N G TO K YO TOKYO LIFE

Tokyo never stops. Change trains during rush hour at Shinjuku Station and youll experience
Tokyo at its most dizzying, with rivers of people pouring from the platforms. Gaze out from the
observation deck at the nearby Metropolitan Government Offices and youll see a vast labyrinth
of a city that seems to continue forever. This metropolis of over 12 million people (expand that
to 33 million if you include the greater metropolitan area) has been constantly reinventing itself
following natural disaster, war and an endless architectural construction-demolition cycle.
Tokyo is far from beautiful, but it is totally modern. What it lacks in greenery and historic
structures is made up for by an almost playful chameleon character, with new redevelopment
zones transforming neighbourhoods like Roppongi, Marunouchi and Shiodome into chic new
centres of entertainment, business and media. Grand municipal schemes to host the Olympic
Games in 2016 and to bury elevated expressways may again reconfigure the urban landscape.
Meanwhile, yet another subway line will be added when the Fukutoshin Line starts funnelling
people between Ikebukuro and Shibuya in 2008. Even though Japans population has started a
long decline because of low birth rates and zero immigration, Tokyo is still evolving.
Social pressures are often the subject in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs). The government seems
incapable of preparing for the system-wide shock that workforce shrinkage will deliver to the
slowly recovering economy. Leaders are often mired in corruption scandals, yet the Japanese
have kept the same party in power virtually uninterrupted since 1955. Between beers, they may
say there are no viable alternatives. Politics is a prickly subject, and touchier topics like Tokyos
Yasukuni Shrine honouring the war dead, and indeed WWII in general, are best avoided.
The most popular visitors are usually those with a deep curiosity for Japanese culture, and
Tokyoites delight at trying to explain their native foods, social etiquette or the writing system.
Tokyos millions are almost as intensely interested in themselves as outsiders, and devour articles
on the sex lives of the elderly, the latest schoolgirl prostitution scandal or trends in yoga for pets.
Turn on the TV and youre bound to see infantile buffoonery on the variety shows and firemen
belting out their best enka blues on the national karaoke programme. Beneath its staid corporate
face, the city is a child at heart. Tokyos joie de vivre, frantic pace and pure energy never lets up.
Women in kimonos outside Kubuki-za (Kabuki Theatre, p61), Ginza

Tokyoites inhabit a singular capital inimitably yoking

past and future, where Zen temples nestle in sci-fi city-
scapes and centuries-old madness for cherry blossoms
coexists with an insatiable desire for nonstop novelty.
Old and new are forever juxtaposed in Tokyo: its residents are at home both donning loincloths
to shoulder a portable Shinto shrine through Asakusas religious festivals and piloting humanoid
fighting machines in Akihabaras robot sport tournaments. Tradition, happily, is not ossified,
but feted along with innovation.
The workaholic stereotype is very true death from overwork is legally recognised in Japan
but stroll through a neon-lined row of Shinjuku yakitori joints on the weekend, or any cherry
grove in spring, and youll see that people take pleasure very seriously here. There is ever-flowing
sake, deep respect for freshly filleted fish and heartfelt karaoke, and constant curiosity about
how outsiders view this archipelago at the end of the world.
Orderly, efficient Tokyo works stunningly well for a metropolis its size, yet it has about as
many masks as there are hostess clubs in Kabukich. Peeling back each faade reveals a city
thats far less Western than first impressions suggest; nearly everything Tokyoites do, from tak-
ing out the trash to cheering a ball game, is profoundly un-Western. Their reverence for ritual,
courtesy and the power to ganbaru (persevere) gives this super-dense megalopolis a calm at
the heart of the storm. This is wa social harmony and its the force that makes Tokyo more
a series of one-of-a-kind experiences than a collection of sights.
Bright lights illuminate the classic meeting place outside Studio Alta, Shinjuku (p114)
2 3

TH E AUTH O R S
Matthew D Firestone
Matt is a trained
anthropologist and
epidemiologist who
should probably be
in the midst of a suc-
cessful academic ca-
reer by now, though
somehow he cant
seem to pry himself
away from Japan.
Smitten with love
after a fifth grade Japan Day fair, Matt
started down the road to being a full-fledged
Japanophile after being diagnosed with a pre-
mature taste for green tea and sushi. After
graduating from college and moving to Japan
to work as a bartender, Matt taught himself
Japanese while learning a thing or two about
the Tokyo underworld. These days how-
ever, he prefers moonlighting as an English
teacher when hes not on the road writing
guidebooks to far-flung locales in Africa and
Central America.
MATTS TOP TOKYO DAY
Exploring every corner of Japans sprawling
capital can take several lifetimes, especially
since each of Tokyos neighbourhoods is de-
fined by its own unique urban stylings. How-
ever, a great introduction to the city is to walk
from Harajuku through Aoyama to Shibuya,
which takes in historic temples, ultramod-
ern storefronts, cos-play (costume play) kids
and high fashionclad yuppies. Starting at
Meiji-jing (p109), one of Tokyos most historic
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS
Why is our travel information the best in the world?
Its simple: our authors are independent, dedicated
travellers. They dont research using just the internet
or phone, and they dont take freebies in exchange
for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the
popular spots and off the beaten track. They person-
ally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafs, bars,
galleries, palaces, museums and more and they
take pride in getting all the details right, and telling
it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at
lonelyplanet.com.
Lonely Planet Publications
shrines, wind your way down Omote-sand
(p142). Along the way youll pass by trendy
teens sporting bizarre fashions, as well as To-
kyos rich and beautiful frequenting a whole
slew of name-brand boutiques. After arriving
in Shibuya (p105), get lost in the urban jungle of
neon-lit streets for a bit of retail therapy.
Timothy N Hornyak
A native of Montreal,
Tim Hornyak moved
to Japan in 1999 after
watching Kurosawas
Ran one too many a
time. Since then he
has written on Japa-
nese culture, tech-
nology and history
for titles including
Wired News, Scien-
tific American and Far Eastern Economic
Review. He plays bass in a rock band in
Tokyo, has lectured on Japanese robots at
the Kennedy Center in Washington, and has
travelled to the heart of Hokkaid to find
the remains of a forgotten theme park called
Canadian World. His interest in haiku poetry
has taken him to Akita-ken to retrace the
steps of Basho, as well as to Maui to interview
poet James Hackett. His favourite robot is
Astro Boy, but he firmly believes that the
greatest Japanese invention of all time is the
onsen (hot spring).
15
 Lonely Planet Publications
as O-Shgatsu, Honourable New Year),

lonelyplanet.com
G E T TI N G STAR TE D the citys large Shint shrines and Bud-
dhist temples swell with visitors; Sens-ji
(p85) and Meiji-jing (p109) are good places
to start. Although both of these places get
Diving head first into the worlds largest megalopolis is daunting to even the most intrepid of extremely crowded Meiji-jing gets mil- QUIRKY EVENTS
travellers. From language barriers and cultural shock to budget woes and the ever present threat lions of visitors alone it can be a particu- Hari-kuy (February; left)
of getting lost, Tokyo is not exactly the gentlest of destinations. With that said, the challenge lar thrill to be part of the crowds of people Setsubun (February; left)
of seeking out the heart and soul of modern Japan is rewarding in itself, especially since Tokyo from all walks of life, many of whom are Design Festa (May & November; p18 & p20)
never ceases to assault your senses and blow your mind. dressed in fine kimono and purchasing Takigi Noh (July & August; p18)
Depending on your preferred style of travel, a trip to Tokyo can be as organised or as spon- seasonal trinkets. Samba Carnival (August; p19)
taneous as youd like it to be. In the modern age of travel, all of your accommodation can be You may also want to stop in at Yasu-
booked online before you ever step foot on a plane, and there is no shortage of guided city kuni-jinja (p55), where the shrines dramatic
tours (see p255) to help you catch your bearings. But, Tokyo is perhaps best experienced by n (stylised dance-drama) is performed in UME HANAMI Early March
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

simply putting down the guidebook, getting lost in the crowds and finding your own secret honour of the shrines god. On 2 January, Before the riot of cherry blossoms comes
corner of the city. you should consider a visit to the Imperial to town, the plum trees do their own
Truth be told, Tokyo is the most expensive destination in Asia, and you certainly will not be Palace (p50) as the emperor and imperial number. Mt Takao, in far western Tokyo,
able to survive here on a shoestring budget. However, one of the biggest misconceptions about family make a brief appearance in one of fairly explodes with them. The closest sta-
Japan is that it is prohibitively expensive on the contrary, Tokyo is arguably a better bargain the inner courtyards its one of the very tion to Mt Takao is Takaosanguchi Station
than New York, London and most European capitals. Of course if you do have the cash to burn, rare occasions when visitors are allowed on the Keio Line.
Tokyo will roll out the tatami mat for you, and cater to your every conceivable whim without a glimpse into imperial life behind bullet-
sparing even the slightest bit of style and class. proof glass. HIWATARI MATSURI Mid-March
Mountain monks take the lead in this festi-
WHEN TO GO
As one of the worlds most exciting cities,
Otherwise you might want to time your
visit so you can catch one of several annual
SETSUBUN 3 or 4 January
Setsubun marks the first day of spring in
val in Mt Takao by walking over hot coals.
If youre feeling invincible (or drunk), youre
sum tournaments, which take place in Janu- the traditional calendar, a shift once be- also welcome to try.
Tokyo will enchant regardless of when you ary, May and September (see p125), or per- lieved to bode evil and bring disaster. To
visit. In fact, if you take a quick look at the haps a baseball game or two (p198), which are ward off the oncoming evil, temples erupt
calendar of festivals (see right), youll quickly played from March to October. ST PATRICKS DAY PARADE Mid-March
into metaphysical food fights as rowdy sup- www.inj.or.jp/stpatrick_e.html
realise that Tokyo hosts a number of big pliants throw tiny sacks of roasted beans
events every single month. Sometime around 17 March, crowds line
Festivals aside, the weather can have an FESTIVALS and shout, Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!
(Devil out! Fortune in!).
the Omote-sand route (Map p110) rain or
impact on your trip, especially since summers Old Edo was home to an abundance of mat- shine for the wearin and drinkin of the
(June to August) are stiflingly hot and humid, suri (festivals), which originated in farming green. The parade is usually led by local
while the winter chill (December to February) communities as expressions of the Shint SEIJIN-NO-HI (COMING-OF-AGE Irish dignitaries and well attended by
can severely limit your outdoor time. But if religion. Spring festivals were held to sup- DAY) 15 January Tokyos sizable, cohesive and always merry
you happen to time your visit to coincide with plicate the local gods and to secure a plenti- Arrows fly at Meiji-jing (p109) during tradi- Irish expat community.
the blooming of the cherry blossoms in the ful harvest, while autumn festivals were held tional archery displays in the celebration of
spring (March to May) or the changing of the in thanks and celebration of a rich harvest. the world of the grown-up. HANAMI (CHERRY-BLOSSOM
leaves in autumn (September to November), Summer and winter festivals were less com- VIEWING) Late March to April
youll catch Tokyo at its best. mon, though this changed with the rise of HARI-KUY Early February Late March through April sees the much-
large urban settlements, where they were Women mourn the passing of broken pins anticipated and glorious reign of the cherry
held in the hope of circumventing pestilence and needles by burying their beloved sarto- blossom. See the boxed text (p20) for details
ADVANCE PLANNING and plague. Today, Tokyos civic calendar is rial pals in cubes of tofu or in radishes at on the best spots for these blossom-viewing
Check out some of Tokyos top websites (p21) and jam-packed with matsuri as well as a mix of Sens-ji (p85). parties.
find out the latest from local media, including expat events from traditional flower viewings to
magazines. Check to see if your trip coincides with trade shows covering everything from mo- TOKYO INTERNATIONAL
popular festivals (right). Make sure your passport and torcycles to design. March & April ANIME FAIR Late March or Early April
other documents are in order. For a list of Japans national holidays see HINA MATSURI (GIRLS DAY) 3 March www.taf.metro.tokyo.jp/en
Give some thought to possible itineraries (p46) p249. Homes and public spaces are decorated Tokyos International Anime Fair at Tokyo
and how to best manage your time, especially if you with squat dolls dressed in the traditional Big Sight (Map p131) brings in everyone from
are planning some excursions (p218). Scout around
for a good hotel (p202) and consider which restau-
January & February dress of the hina (princess). Around this
time, dolls made by children are set
the 17-year-old animephile living next
SHGATSU (NEW YEARS door to big-screen voice actors and some
rants are worthy of your yen (p150). adrift on the Sumida River (Map p86) from 170 exhibitors. Sorry, cos-play (costume
On the day before you leave, reconfirm your fight HOLIDAY) 1 to 3 January Sumida-ken near Azuma-bashi. Theres play) is sadly not permitted inside as the
(and make sure the oven is turned off ). While Tokyo comes to a virtual halt on the also a Boys Day held in May (see Otoko decorum of this bit of the event is surpris-
first few days of the year (also referred to No Hi, p18). ingly serious in an anime sorta way.
16 17
lonelyplanet.com
HANA MATSURI
First Week in April
Happy birthday Buddha celebrations hap-
pen across Japan. Look for the parade of
children in Asakusa, pulling a white papier-
mch elephant.
TOKYO MOTORCYCLE SHOW Early April
At Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) the biggest
motorcycle show in Japan has been letting
the good times roll since the 1970s.
May & June
OTOKO NO HI (BOYS DAY)
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
5 May
This is the male counterpart to Hina Matsuri
(see p17). Homes where boys live fly koino-
bori (banners or windsocks in the shape of
a carp), a symbol of strength, never-ending
struggle and other masculine virtues.
KANDA MATSURI Mid-May
www.kandamyoujin.or.jp
One of the citys three big matsuri, this fes-
tival features the obligatory music, dancing
and a healthy dose of sake. The highlight
is the parade of mikoshi (portable shrines)
through the streets of Kanda (see Kanda
Myjin, p69).
SANJA MATSURI Mid-May
Another one of the citys three big matsuri,
this three-day festival attracts around 1.5
million spectators to Asakusa-jinja (p86).
The highlight is watching half-naked men
(and women, although not half-naked)
carry more than a hundred mikoshi around
the shrine and neighbouring Sens-ji. The
crowd sheds its reserve and things get
rowdy, so grab a beer or two and feel free
to jump into the action and let it all hang
out so to speak.
DESIGN FESTA Mid- to Late May
www.designfesta.com
At Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131), this two-day
arts and design fair brings in 6000 exhibi-
tors (professionals and amateurs alike) and
some 50,000-plus visitors, making it the
biggest art event in Asia. Also held in mid-
November (see above).
IRIS VIEWING Early to Mid-June
Mizumoto-ken (3-2 Mizumoto-ken, Katsushika-
ku) & Horikiri Iris Garden (2-19-1 Horikiri,
Katsushika-ku)
18
These parks in Eastern Tokyo show off more
than 100 unique iris species. Saturdays and
Sundays bring drum performances and
larger crowds; weekdays are better for a
quiet walk. These parks are best reached by
taking the Keisei Line to Kanamachi Station.
SANN-SAI Mid-June
Tokyoites turn out to Hie-jinja (p91) for this
matsuri with music and dancing and the
usual frenetic procession of mikoshi, at the
former protector shrine for Edo Castle.
July & August
INTERNATIONAL GAY &
LESBIAN FILM FESTIVAL Mid-July
IGLFF; www.tokyo-lgff.org; various venues
An outgrowth of the Gay Art Project, IGLFF
has nearly 20 seasons beneath its belt. The
festival highlights the best gay and lesbian
films from both Japan and around the
world.
SUMIDA RIVER
HANABI Last Saturday in July
Summertime in Japan is synonymous with
exhibitions of fireworks (hanabi), which
happen throughout the country. The ones
on the Sumida River (Map p86) are among
the most spectacular around. Although you
may have seen fireworks displays else-
where, they probably havent prepared you
for the grandness of this one, which goes
on, marvellously, for hours.
TAKIGI NOH July or August
As the summer weather starts to peak,
shrines, temples and parks stage evening
outdoor n backlit by bonfires. Meiji-jing
(p109), Kichijoji Gesoji and Shinjuku (Map p116)
are the usual spots for evening perform-
ances within the city limits. This is a great
bit of old Edo that has been preserved in
modern Tokyo.
O-BON Mid-August
For several days, Japanese city dwellers
return to their ancestral provinces to gather
with family and visit the graves of ancestors,
marking the time when Buddhist teaching
says the dead revisit the earth. Bon-odori
(folk dances) by people in yukata (light
cotton kimono) are held throughout Japan,
but the one at Yasukuni-jinja (p55) is famous,
illuminated by bonbori (paper lanterns).
FUKAGAWA HACHIMAN
Mid-August
The latest of the citys three big matsuri is
famous for its traditional chant of wasshoi!
wasshoi! as spectators pour sacred water
over the mikoshi carriers along the route.
Needless to say, everyone gets wet, which
is certainly welcomed if the August sun is
beating down. Tomioka Hachimang (p125)
is located near Monzen-nakacho Station on
the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line.
KENJI AWA ODORI Late August
More than 10,000 participants do the Fools
Dance along a 2km stretch. If you happen
to find yourself along the parade route at
Kenji Station (Map pp489), youre welcome CHRYSANTHEMUM
to break into your own rendition.
SAMBA CARNIVAL Last Saturday in August
This universally loved event, which is staged
by the Nikkei Brazilians, features roughly
3500 dancers moving their fleshy way down
Kaminarimon-dri in Asakusa (Map p86) past a
half-million spectators. The dancing is top-
notch, and the judged competition is fierce,
drawing dancers all the way from Rio.
September & October
TOKYO GAME SHOW Mid-September
www.tgs.cesa.or.jp; Makuhari Messe
Get your geek on when the Computer
Entertainment Suppliers Association stages
this massive expo at a convention centre
on the way to Narita Airport (Makuhari
Messe is about 30 minutes east of Tokyo,
via the JR Keiy Line from Tokyo Station to
Kaihin Makuhari Station). The holding of
the event in 2008 marks its 17th year, and
you can expect more than 130 exhibitors
and 175,000 visitors over three days.
NINGY-KUY Late September
Childless couples pray for children by offer-
ing dolls to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess
of mercy. More interesting for spectators
is the ceremonial burning by priests of all
the dolls held in the temple precinct from
the previous year. See Kiymizu Kannon-d
(p71) for more info.
TOKYO INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL Late October
TIFF; www.tiff-jp.net
Bigger doesnt necessarily mean better
when it comes to film festivals, though the
TIFF the biggest in Asia maintains its
lonelyplanet.com
integrity by keeping a feature-length film
competition at its core. The TIFF pays spe-
cial attention to films from Asia, although
there are always selections in English.
EDO TENKA MATSURI Late October
This festival in Marunouchi (Map pp523)
began in 2003 to commemorate the 400th
anniversary of Edo, and is held every two
years (next is 2009). Youll find exhibits and
demonstrations of traditional Edo crafts, as
well as a parade of mikoshi.
GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO
TOKYO METROPOLITAN
FESTIVAL Late October to Mid-November
Chrysanthemums are the flower of the
season (as well as the flower of the imperial
family), and this dazzling display in Hibiya-
ken (p61) is certainly cause for celebration,
and has been ever since 1914. You can also
catch dazzling chrysanthemum displays at
Shint shrines, including Meiji-jing (p109)
and Yasukuni-jinja (p55).
November & December
TOKYO JIDAI MATSURI
(FESTIVAL OF THE AGES) 3 November
On National Culture Day, locals, dressed
in splendid costumes representing figures
from Japanese history parade around the
Sens-ji temple precincts in Asakusa (Map
p86). This festival takes after a much bigger
(and older) one in Kyoto, held a couple of
weeks earlier.
TOKYO DESIGNERS WEEK Early November
www.tdwa.com
Video, furniture and fashion are a few of
the genres represented at venues around
the city, mostly in arts enclaves such as
Aoyama, Harajuku and Roppongi. Parties
happen in the evenings.
SHICHI-GO-SAN (SEVEN-FIVE-
THREE FESTIVAL) Early to Mid-November
This adorable festival celebrates children of
these tender ages, who were once thought
to be in danger of imminent misfortune.
Parents dress girls aged seven and three
and boys aged five in wee kimono and
head to Shint shrines and Buddhist tem-
ples throughout town, grandparents often
in tow. Its a prime photo opportunity.
19
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

KY (AUTUMN FOLIAGE SEASON)

COSTS & MONEY stores or to eat rmen (noodles) three times

The citys trees undergo magnificent sea-
sonal transformations during ky. For list-
ings of optimum foliage-viewing pleasure,
see boxed text, (below).
DESIGN FESTA Mid-November
www.designfesta.com;
This enormous art and design festival at
Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) is held for a sec-
ond time in mid-November. See also p18.
INTERNATIONAL ROBOT
GETTING STARTED COSTS & MONEY
Tokyo, once known as an impossibly expen-
sive city, has become a lot more affordable
in the last 10 years or at least prices have
frozen, giving the rest of the world a chance
to catch up. Truth be told, its still possible
to spend thousands of dollars on a five-star
hotel room, and wine and dine on gourmet
cuisine until your bank account is in the
red, but Tokyoites are quick to point out that
their city is as expensive as you want it to
be. In fact, for every upmarket hotel or so-
phisticated restaurant in the capital, there are
lonelyplanet.com
HOW MUCH? a day to survive here. Generally speaking,
anything that requires a lot of space costs
1L petrol 135 a lot (eg bowling alleys, cinemas, domestic
1L bottled water 145 produce), so you can save a bit if you avoid
these minor pleasures. Also, although most
Kirin beer at a bar 700
museums and cinemas dont generally offer
Kirin beer from a vending machine 300 discounts to adults, concessions are usually
Pack of cigarettes 280 available to students, children and senior stu-
dents. And finally, you should know, too, that
Souvenir T-shirt 2000
Tokyos little-kept secret, the bargain lunch
Onigiri (rice ball) 120 set, can sometimes put your foot in the door
Cup of coffee in a caf 450 at places that might otherwise be beyond your
budget.

GETTING STARTED INTERNET RESOURCES

EXHIBITION Late November to Early December Cinema ticket 1800
numerous affordable guesthouses and cheap
This biennial event organised by the Japan noodles shops scattered about. And, in light 2km taxi ride 660
Robotics Association and friends attracted
more than 100,000 people in 2007. The
of the recent plummeting of the US dollar and
the strengthening of the British Pound and
INTERNET RESOURCES
There is a vast treasure trove of Japan-related
next event scheduled is for 2009.
value than one to London, Paris or any other
the euro, a trip to Tokyo is arguably better European capital. info on web. Before touching down in Tokyo,
Although shoestringers will have to part take a few moments to check out the follow-
with a bit more cash than theyre perhaps ing sites:
TOKYO IN BLOOM used to, it is possible to survive in Tokyo for Hyperdia (www.hyperdia.com) Having problems finding
Owing to the seasonal nature of Japanese culture, monitoring the progress of spring blossoms and autumn foliage is around 5000 a day, though you will have to your way around Tokyo? Resident expats use this English
an obsession up and down the archipelago the national news carries maps of their progress. Even though Tokyo is sleep in dormitories, subsist on noodles and site to make sense of Tokyos overwhelming transporta-
largely hemmed in by concrete, blossom-viewing and leaf-peeping are still a big deal. rice, and limit your sight-seeing to cut down tion grid.
on entrance and transport fees. More realisti- Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; www.jnto
cally, a budget of 10,000 to 15,000 will allow
Hanami you to bed down in a private room, sample
.go.jp/eng) The JNTO offers an extremely comprehensive
Cherry blossoms seem to burst out overnight sometime between the end of March and the beginning of April, repre- guide to tourism in Tokyo and the whole of Japan.
Tokyos spectacular culinary offerings and
senting the climax of spring. Hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) parties begin with the earliest buds and endure to the snap a few hundred shots at sights around Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp) Tokyos most widely
last clinging blossoms. Both daytime parties and moonlit soirees are standard, as crowds flood the parks with beer the city. If money is no object, then welcome circulated English-language newspaper is a great way to
and good humour. to paradise Tokyo is a rich persons fantasy catch up on the latest Japan headlines.
Hama Riky Onshi-teien (p66) there are about a hundred cherry trees here, including a few wild varieties. A come true. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Includes sum-
small admission fee keeps the crowds at bay. Throughout this book, we have broken maries on travelling in Tokyo, the Thorn Tree Forum,
Zj-ji (p98) about a hundred trees are found here at Shiba-ken, with the temple for a backdrop. down sleeping and eating listings based on travel news and links to the most useful travel resources
Shinjuku-gyen (p119) a prime cherry-blossom attraction, this garden has several varieties of cherry trees, price. For instance, budget sleeps are rooms on the web.
including the spectacular yaezakura (double-blossoming cherries). costing 6500 or less, midrange rooms cost
Ueno-ken (p70) ground zero for the hanami explosion as enthusiasts vie for the best angle on Uenos 1000 Metropolis (www.metropolis.co.jp/default.asp) Japans
between 6500 and 16,000, and top-end most popular English-language weekly magazine is a great
flowering trees. rooms will cost more than 16,000. Budget
Yasukuni-jinja (p55) there are more than a thousand cherry trees in the grounds of the shrine; check out the insight into whats happening around the country.
eats will cost around 1000 or less for lunch,
cherry trees lining the nearby Imperial Palace moat as well. and 2000 or less for dinner. A quality mid- The Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) The source for all
Yoyogi-ken (p108) there is plenty of space here to stretch out and admire the parks 500 or so cherry trees. range meal can run upwards of 5000, while your train-related inquiries in Japan as well as the rest of
haute cuisine can easily run to 20,000 per the world.
Ky person. Tokyo Notice Board (www.tokyonoticeboard.co.jp) From
During the ky (autumn foliage season), which runs from about mid-October to early November, Tokyos trees virtually As any Tokyoite will tell you, you dont apartment listings to job openings, this weekly English-
explode in colour. Look especially for the maple, which goes through a minor spectrum of yellows and oranges before need to raid the shelves of the convenience language classified zine is worth checking out.
climaxing in a fiery red. Some of the best spots include the following.
Kitanomaru-ken (p51) located just north of the Imperial Palace, this grassy expanse is a great place for an
autumn stroll and/or a picnic.
Koishikawa Krakuen (p58) a lovely pond and surrounding gardens make this park one of Tokyos best foliage spots.
Shinjuku-gyen (p119) this sprawling gardens many leaf-peeping locales include the Western-style garden. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Ueno-ken (p70) as popular for autumn foliage as for cherry blossoms.
Yasukuni-jinja (p55) the tree-lined walkway leading to this temple explodes in a fury of autumn colours.
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Yoyogi-ken (p108) this sprawling park is dotted with picturesque ginkgo, zelvoka and cherry trees. only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
20 21
 Lonely Planet Publications
Continued from previous page.
Clubs 184
Live Music 186
Comedy 187
Cinemas 188
Jazz 189

SPORTS &
ACTIVITIES 191
Health & Fitness 192
Watching Sport 197

SLEEPING 201
Imperial Palace
& Marunouchi 204
Central Tokyo 205
Ginza 205
Shiodome 206
Akihabara & Kanda 207
Ueno 207
Asakusa 208
Akasaka 210
Roppongi 211
Ebisu 211
Shibuya 211
Shinjuku 213
Ikebukuro 214

EXCURSIONS 217
Nikk 221
Hakone 225
Kamakura 229
Enoshima 233
Izu-hant 234

TRANSPORT 237
DIRECTORY 245
LANGUAGE 259
BEHIND THE
SCENES 268
INDEX 273
WORLD TIME ZONE 283
MAP LEGEND 284
 Lonely Planet Publications

BACKG RO U N D
HISTORY
IT CAME FROM THE SWAMP!
The monstrous metropolis that is Tokyo, population 12 million, has come a long way from its
origins as a collection of shallows and tidal pools at the mouth of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida
River). Fertility was the focus of its first permanent inhabitants and this fecund swampland
edging the Kant plain was perfect for incubating new life. They were a pottery-producing
culture who settled here during the late Neolithic Jmon period (Jmon means rope marks
for the design on pottery fragments discovered from this time) around 10,000 BC. These early
Tokyoites lived as fishers, hunters and food-gatherers, and likely benefited from the fauna-rich
marshland that was left behind after what is now Tokyo Bay rose to cover most of the valley
where Tokyo now sits.
Some 4000 years later, during the Yayoi period (400 BCAD 250), wet-rice farming techniques
were introduced from Korea. Shint Japans native religion also began to develop during this
BACKGROUND HISTORY
lonelyplanet.com
SAMURAI: THOSE WHO SERVE
The prime duty of a samurai, a member of the warrior class, was to give faithful service to his daimy (feudal lord).
In fact, the origin of the term samurai is closely linked to a word meaning to serve. Over the centuries, the samurai
established a code of conduct that came to be known as bushid (the way of the warrior), drawn from Confucianism,
Shint and Buddhism.
Confucianism required a samurai to show absolute loyalty to his lord. Towards the oppressed, a samurai was expected
to show benevolence and exercise justice. Subterfuge was to be despised, as were all commercial and financial transac-
tions. A real samurai had endless endurance and total self-control, spoke only the truth and displayed no emotion. Since
his honour was his life, disgrace and shame were to be avoided above all else, and all insults were to be avenged.
From Buddhism, the samurai learnt the lesson that life is impermanent a handy reason to face death with serenity.
Shint provided the samurai with patriotic beliefs in the divine status both of the emperor and of Japan the abode
of the gods.
Seppuku (ritual suicide), also known as hara-kiri, was a practice to which Japanese Buddhism conveniently turned
a blind eye and was an accepted means of avoiding dishonour. Seppuku required the samurai to ritually disembowel
himself, watched by an aide, who then drew his own sword and lopped off the samurais head. One reason for this
ritual was the requirement that a samurai should never surrender but always go down fighting. Since surrender was
considered a disgrace, prisoners received scant mercy. During WWII this attitude was reflected in the Japanese treatment
of prisoners of war still a source of bitter memories.
In quiet moments, a samurai dressed simply but was easily recognisable by his triangular eboshi, a hat made from

time. Shint, similar to animism, involves the worship of gods who inhabit animals and objects
in nature. By AD 300 Japan was already, more or less, a unified nation, with its cultural base
in the Kansai area (around the present-day cities of Nara, Kyoto and Osaka), while the Kant
region remained a distant backwater. While the Roman Empire rose and declined, Edo (the old
name for Tokyo) continued as a sleepy fishing village for another thousand years.
Meanwhile, the proto-Japanese nation came under the control of the Yamato clan (forerun-
ners of the current imperial family), who claimed a handy direct descent from the sun goddess
Amaterasu and introduced the title of tenn (emperor) around the 5th century. This was called
the Kofun period, named for the earthen mounds in which the nobility were interred.
But the most important event in Japans early history was the arrival of Buddhism in the
6th century, from India via China and Korea. Buddhism introduced a highly evolved system
of metaphysics, codes of law and the Chinese writing system, a conduit for the principles of
Confucian statecraft.
LIVE BY THE SWORD, DIE BY THE SWORD
Few would have guessed it, but Edo was to play a central role in Japans life as a warrior state.
The rise of the samurai was linked to how strong a hold the imperial court had over the nation.
From the earliest days of the Yamato dynasty, it was the custom to relocate the capital following
the death of an emperor (presumably to free the capital from the taint of death). However, this
custom was altered in 710 with the establishment of Japans first permanent capital at Nara.
By the end of the 8th century, the Buddhist clerical bureaucracy had become vast, threatening
the authority of the imperial administration. The emperor responded by relocating the capital
once again and establishing a new seat of imperial power at Heian-ky (modern-day Kyoto).
From that point on, Kyoto generally served as the capital until the Meiji Restoration in 1868,
when Tokyo became the new chief city.
BACKGROUND HISTORY
rigid black cloth.
The samurais standard battle dress or armour (yoroi in Japanese, usually made of leather or maybe lacquered steel)
consisted of a breastplate, a similar covering for his back, a steel helmet with a visor, and more body armour for his
shoulders and lower body. Samurai weaponry his pride and joy included a bow and arrows (in a quiver), swords
and a dagger; and he wasnt complete without his trusty steed.
Before entering the fray, a samurai was expected to be freshly washed and groomed. The classic samurai battle took
the form of duelling between individuals rather than the clashing of massed armies.
Not all samurai were capable of adhering to their code of conduct samurai indulging in double-crossing or sub-
terfuge, or displaying outright cowardice, were popular themes in Japanese theatre.
Though the samurai are long gone, there are echoes of bushid in the salaryman corporate warriors of todays Japan.
Under the once-prevalent lifetime employment system, employees were expected to show complete obedience to their
company, and could not question its decisions if, for example, they were transferred to New York.
The salaryman system has greatly changed in the past two decades with growth in part-time employees and cor-
porate restructuring, but you can still see hordes of blue-suited warriors rushing to their duties every morning in train
stations. Instead of swords, they wield business cards. Corporate honour is paramount, and suicide is still a common
method of atoning for social disgrace (methods include jumping off a train platform, not seppuku).
Next time you see a salaryman in his cups, spare a thought for these overworked drivers of the Japanese economy.
Like the samurai of old, they are the bedrock of the social order.
From Kyotos early days, a samurai class in the employ of the daimy (feudal lords) emerged.
The relationship was one of absolute service; samurai were sworn to do anything for the sake
of their clan and lord, and were always prepared to die (see above). Much of Japans subsequent
history revolved around bloody struggles for power among the daimy while the emperor
mostly watched impotently from the sidelines in Kyoto.

10,000 BC AD 710 794 1185 1457 1467

Tokyo area inhabited by pottery-making
people during late Neolithic Jmon period.
The Kant region around Tokyo is among
the most densely settled in this era.
Japans first permanent capital established
at Nara, ending the practice of moving the
capital following an emperors death. The
city is modelled on Changan, capital of
Tang dynasty China.
Imperial capital moved to Heian-ky,
renamed Kyoto in the 11th century. It is
laid out in a gridlike pattern and in accord-
ance with traditional Chinese geomancy
principles.
First shgunate established at Kamakura
under Minamoto no Yoritomo after defeat-
ing the ruling Taira clan; the Minamoto
and Hjo clans held power until Emperor
Go-Daigo wrested power from the Hjo
in 1333.
Waka (31-syllable poem) poet ta Dkan nin civil war devastates Kyoto; aristocrats
orders construction of first Edo Castle. flee to ta Dkans stronghold. The conflict
Developed by shgun Tokugawa Ieyasu begins the Sengoku Jidai, or Warring
in the 17th century, it became the largest States period, which lasts to the early
fortress the world has ever seen. 17th century.

22 23
lonelyplanet.com

The one interruption came when the warlord Minamoto no Yoritomo defeated the ruling in Japan spend at least one year out of two in Edo. Their wives and children remained in Edo

Taira clan and established the first shgunate in Kamakura (southwest of Tokyo) in 1185.
Although the emperor remained the nominal ruler in Kyoto, the Minamoto clan ran a bakufu
(military government) from Kamakura until 1333, when it was toppled by a rebellion and of-
ficial power reverted to Kyoto.
Near the mid-15th century, a waka (31-syllable poem) poet named ta Dkan constructed
the first castle at Edo on the site of an old fortress above Hibiya Cove. By 1467, when the dis-
astrous nin civil war was devastating the capital in Kyoto, many aristocrats and monks had
fled the capital to become supplicants in Dkans secure eastern hold. This was a foretaste of
Edos explosive growth, but despite Dkans contribution to establishing the city, his overlord
ordered his assassination.
BATTLE FOR SUPREMACY
By the time Portuguese traders and missionaries arrived in 1543, feudal lords had carved
Japan into a patchwork of fiefdoms. One of the most powerful daimy, Oda Nobunaga of the
Chbu region, near present-day Nagoya, was quick to see how the Portuguese could support
his ambitious plans. He viewed their Christianity as a potential weapon against the power of
the Buddhist clergy and made ample use of the firearms they introduced. By the time he was
assassinated in 1581, Oda had united much of central Japan. Toyotomi Hideyoshi took over
BACKGROUND HISTORY
lonelyplanet.com
while the daimy returned to their home provinces. This dislocating ransom policy made it
difficult for ambitious daimy to usurp the Tokugawas. The high costs of travelling back and
forth with a large retinue eroded their financial power as well.
Society was made rigidly hierarchical, comprising (in descending order of importance) the
nobility, who had nominal power; the daimy and their samurai; the farmers; and finally the
artisans and merchants. Class dress, living quarters and even manner of speech were all strictly
codified, and interclass movement was prohibited.
When Tokugawa Ieyasu died in 1616, his ashes were briefly laid to rest in Chbu before being
moved to Nikk (p224). Generations of Tokugawas made improvements to the vast Tsh-gu
Shrine dedicated to his memory there, transforming it into one of the grandest in all Japan. A
smaller version stands in the large park Ueno-ken (p72) in Tokyo.
The castelike society imposed by Tokugawa rule divided Edo into a high city (Yamanote) and
a low city (Shitamachi). The higher Yamanote (literally hand of the mountains) was home to
the daimy and their samurai, while the merchants, craftsmen and lower orders of Edo society
were forced into the low-lying Shitamachi (literally downtown).
One distinguishing feature of those days was the pleasure quarters, where samurai would
come to indulge in activities forbidden in the Yamanote: wine, women and song and not neces-
sarily in that order. The most legendary of these districts was the Yoshiwara, to the northeast
of present-day Asakusa.

the job of consolidating power, but looked less favourably on the growing Christian movement,
subjecting it to systematic persecution.
Toyotomis power was briefly contested by Tokugawa Ieyasu, son of a minor lord allied to
Oda. After a brief struggle for power, Tokugawa agreed to a truce with Toyotomi; in return,
Toyotomi granted him eight provinces in eastern Japan, including all of the Kant region and
Edo. While Toyotomi intended this to weaken Tokugawa by separating him from his ancestral
homeland Chbu, the upstart looked upon the gift as an opportunity to strengthen his power.
He set about turning Edo into a real city.
When Toyotomi Hideyoshi died in 1598, power passed to his son, Toyotomi Hideyori. However,
Tokugawa Ieyasu had been busily scheming to secure the shgunate for himself and soon went to
war against those loyal to Hideyori. Tokugawas forces finally defeated Hideyori and his supporters
at the legendary Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, moving him into a position of supreme power. He
chose Edo as his permanent base and began two-and-a-half centuries of Tokugawa rule.
BOOMTOWN EDO
In securing a lasting peace nationwide and ruling from Edo, Tokugawa Ieyasu laid the founda-
tion for Tokyos ascendancy as one of the worlds great cities. In 1603, the emperor appointed
him shgun (military administrator), and the Tokugawa family ruled from Edo Castle (Edo-j),
on the grounds of the current Imperial Palace. It built up into the largest fortress the world had
ever seen, with elaborate rituals shaping the lives of its many courtiers, courtesans, samurai and
attendants. Edo would also grow to become the worlds largest city, topping one million in the
early 1700s and dwarfing much older London and Paris, as people from all over Japan flocked
here to serve the growing military class.
This was the result of a canny move by the Tokugawa that ensured their hegemony. They
implemented the sankin ktai system of alternate residence. This demanded that all daimy
BACKGROUND HISTORY
Otherwise the typical residential neighbourhood of the Shitamachi featured squalid
conditions, usually comprising flimsy wooden structures with earthen floors. These shan-
tytowns were often swept by great conflagrations, which locals referred to as Edo-no-hana,
or flowers of Edo; the expressions bravura sums up the spirit of Shitamachi. Under great
privation, Shitamachi subsequently produced a flourishing culture that thumbed its nose
at social hardships and the strictures of the shgunate, patronising both the kabuki theatre
and sum wrestling, and generally enjoying a joie de vivre that the dour lords of Edo castle
ALL ABOARD!
Just as arteries and veins pump blood through the body, Tokyos trains are the circulatory system of this city. Japans first
train line was built in 1872, connecting Tokyo with Yokohama; visitors can still see the original station near present-day
Shimbashi Station. But even the most enthusiastic trainspotter of those days could not have imagined todays rmen
(noodle) bowl of a train map, a tangle of lines now operated by the Japan Railways (JR) and 13 subway lines operated
by not one but two municipal systems.
Tokyos transit system also stands out for its network of privately operated commuter train lines, ferrying subur-
banites into hubs along the JR Yamanote Line, which loops around the city centre. Some of these early trains were
streetcars connecting neighbourhoods of this fast-growing city, others shuttled holidaymakers as far as Nikk (p221)
and Hakone (p225), some 100km away.
Many private rail lines have namesake department stores. In 1929 Osaka-based Hanky Railway became the pioneer
in the train-line-as-real-estate-mogul concept, developing residential suburbs along its rail routes and connecting them
to large retail complexes at its hubs. Tokyo rail operators followed suit, particularly after WWII; major hubs now include
Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro. Up to that point, department stores mainly catered to well-heeled consumers in
chi-chi neighbourhoods such as Ginza and Nihombashi, but the train-affiliated stores were more democratic, allowing
greater ease of access. That pattern continues today.

1600 1638 1853 1868 1872 1889

Tokugawa Ieyasu, victor in the Battle
of Sekigahara, establishes his capital in
Edo, forming a shgunate and beginning
two-and-a-half centuries of peace under
Tokugawa rule, known as the Edo period.
Sakoku national isolation policy; Japan cuts
off all contact with the outside world save
limited trade with Dutch and Chinese off
Nagasaki. The policy remains in place until
the 1850s.
Black ships of the US navy arrive in Japan
under the command of Commodore Mat-
thew Perry, who succeeds in forcing Japan
open to US trade at ports of Hakodate and
Shimoda.
Meiji Restoration; Tokugawa shgunate
loyalists are defeated in civil war. The
emperor casts off his figurehead role and
assumes a position of supreme authority.
Imperial residence moves to Edo, which is
renamed Tokyo.
Japans first train line connects Shimbashi
in Tokyo with Yokohama to the southwest,
with services between Osaka and Kbe
launched two years later, and OsakaKyoto
services in 1877.
Constitution of the Empire of Japan
promulgated. Based on a Prussian model
of constitutional monarchy, the emperor
wielded great power but shared it with an
elected Diet (parliament).

24 25
lonelyplanet.com

frowned upon. Today, the best glimpses we have into that time come from ukiyo-e (wood-

block prints; see p35).
Another feature of Edo that has left its mark on todays Tokyo was the division of the city
into machi (towns) according to profession. Even today it is possible to stumble across small
enclaves that specialise in particular wares. Most famous are Jimbch, the bookshop area;
Kappabashi, with its plastic food and kitchen supplies; and Akihabara, which now specialises
in electronics and manga (comic books), but in the past has been a bicycle retailing area, an
area specialising in domestic household goods and a freight yard.
THE EASTERN CAPITAL IS BORN
Edos transformation from a grand medieval city into a world-class capital required an outside
nudge, or gaiatsu (external pressure). This came in the form of a fleet of black ships, under the
command of US Navy Commodore Matthew Perry, that sailed into Edo-wan (now known as
Tokyo Bay) in 1853. Perrys expedition demanded, in the name of US President Millard Fill-
more, that Japan open itself to foreign trade after centuries of isolation. Other Western powers
were quick to follow in demanding the Japanese open treaty ports. The coming of Westerners
heralded a far-reaching social revolution against which the antiquated Tokugawa regime was
powerless. In 186768, faced with widespread antigovernment feeling and accusations that
the regime had failed to prepare Japan for the threat of the West, the last Tokugawa shgun
BACKGROUND HISTORY
lonelyplanet.com
TOKYO TOMES
Tokyo: Exploring the City of the Shogun (2007), Sumiko Enbutsu A veteran Tokyo walker presents a delightful
series of strolls through historic areas.
Tabloid Tokyo: 101 Tales of Sex, Crime and the Bizarre from Japans Wild Weeklies (2005), Mark Schreiber This
hilarious compilation of translated Japanese tabloid articles exposes the citys sordid underbelly. The sequel is
Tabloid Tokyo 2.
Edo, the City that Became Tokyo (2003), Akira Naito This beautifully illustrated history begins with primeval Edo,
continues on to evil Edo, and concludes with the surrender of Edo Castle to the emperor. There are wonderful
maps throughout.
Tokyo Sights and Insights: Exploring the Citys Back Streets (1992), Ryosuke Kami This paean to vanishing neigh-
bourhoods presents vivid sketches of districts off the tourist path.
Low City, High City (1983), Edward Seidensticker Chronicles the decline of Edo between the time of the Meiji
Restoration and the Great Kant Earthquake. A follow-up to this book, Tokyo Rising, charts the capitals postwar
growing pains.
and its annexe in Nihombashi (1914) was called the grandest building east of the Suez Canal.
However, if the Meiji Restoration sounded the death knell for old Edo, there were two more
events to come that were to erase most traces of the old city.

resigned and power reverted to Emperor Meiji. In 1868 Meiji moved the seat of imperial power
from Kyoto to Edo Castle, renaming the city Tokyo (Eastern Capital). This was known as the
Meiji Restoration, and signified that power was restored to the emperor, and the imperial and
political capitals were once again unified.
The Meiji Restoration was not an entirely peaceful handover of power. In Edo, some 2000
Tokugawa loyalists put up a futile last-ditch resistance to the imperial forces in the brief Battle
of Ueno. The struggle took place around the beautiful temple Kanei-ji (p72), which, along with
Zj-ji (p98), was one of Edos two mortuary temples for the Tokugawa shgunate.
The word Meiji means enlightenment and Japans new rulers pushed the nation into a crash
course in industrialisation and militarisation. In 1872 the first railroad opened, connecting
Tokyo with the new port of Yokohama, south along Tokyo Bay, and by 1889 the country had
a Western-style constitution.
In a remarkably short time, Japan achieved military victories over China (189495) and Russia
(190405) and embarked on modern, Western-style empire-building, with the annexation of
Taiwan (1895), then Korea (1910) and Micronesia (1914).
Nationalists were also busy transforming Shint into a jingoistic state religion. Seen as a
corrupting foreign influence, Buddhism suffered badly many valuable artefacts and temples
were destroyed, and the common people were urged to place their faith in the pure religion
of State Shint.
During the Meiji period, and the following Taish period, changes that were taking place
all over Japan could be seen most prominently in the countrys new capital city. Tokyos rapid
industrialisation, uniting around the nascent zaibatsu (huge industrial and trading conglomer-
ates), drew jobseekers from around Japan, causing the population to grow rapidly. In the 1880s
electric lighting was introduced. Western-style brick buildings began to spring up in fashionable
areas such as Ginza. In 1904 Mitsukoshi became Japans first Western-style department store,
BACKGROUND HISTORY
A CATFISH JUMPS THE GREAT KANT EARTHQUAKE
Japanese have traditionally believed that a giant catfish living underground causes earthquakes
when it stirs. At noon on 1 September 1923 the catfish really jumped the Great Kant
Earthquake caused unimaginable devastation in Tokyo. More than the quake itself, it was the
subsequent fires, lasting some 40 hours, that laid waste to the city, including some 300,000
houses. A quarter of the quakes 142,000 fatalities occurred in one savage firestorm in a clothing
depot. (There are some sombre reminders of the earthquake exhibited at the Kant Earthquake
Memorial Museum; see p128).
In true Edo style, reconstruction began almost immediately. The spirit of this rebuilding is
perhaps best summed up by author Edward Seidensticker (see Low City, High City boxed text;
above): popular wisdom had it that any business which did not resume trading within three days of
being burnt out did not have a future. Opportunities were lost in reconstructing the city streets
might have been widened and the capital transformed into something more of a showcase.
THE BEGINNING OF SHWA & WWII
From the accession of Emperor Hirohito (Shwa tenn to the Japanese) and the initiation of the
Shwa period in 1926, Japanese society was marked by a quickening tide of nationalist fervour.
In 1931 the Japanese invaded Manchuria, and in 1937 embarked on full-scale hostilities with
China. By 1940 a tripartite pact with Germany and Italy had been signed and a new order for
all of Asia formulated: the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere. On 7 December 1941 the
Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, bringing the USA, Japans principal rival in the AsiaPacific
region, into the war.

1923 1926 194445 1947 1952 1955

Great Kant Earthquake kills more than
140,000 and razes over half the citys
wooden structures. An estimated 300,000
houses are destroyed, but the citys
reconstruction plan is only partly realised
due to money shortages.
Hirohito ascends the Chrysanthemum
Throne to become the Shwa emperor.
Presiding over Japans military expansion
across East Asia and atrocities committed
by Japanese forces, he is spared trial by
Allied forces after WWII.
US firebombs Tokyo and drops two atomic
bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki; US
occupation begins. The American overlords
embark on a successful programme of
demilitarisation and democratisation.
New constitution adopted, including Article
9 in which Japan renounces war and the
possession of armed forces. Despite this,
Self-Defense Forces are eventually built up
into a formidable military arsenal.
US occupation ends; Japan enters a period
of high economic growth. The Korean War
provides a shot in the arm for Japanese
manufacturers, who supply US forces.
Liberal Democratic Party founded; it
goes on to hold a virtually uninterrupted
monopoly on power into the 21st century
despite recurring corruption scandals and
deep-seated factionalism.

26 27
lonelyplanet.com

One of Tokyos proudest moments came when it hosted the 1964 summer Olympics. In prepa-

THE UYOKU
Since the end of WWII, right-wing and nationalist sentiments have generally taken a back seat to moderate political
views or outright apathy. However, there remain pockets of right-wing sentiment. These are most visible to the visitor
in the form of sinister black buses and vans, which ply the streets of big cities blaring patriotic Japanese songs (that
unfortunately always sound like the TV theme songs for kids manga cartoons) at ear-splitting volume. These vehicles
represent the propaganda arm of the uyoku far-right political parties and organisations.
When not playing music, speakers often deliver lengthy diatribes against Japanese politicians or a litany of
nationalist sentiments. Japanese pedestrians studiously ignore black buses blaring 100 decibels of noise, and
when regular citizens do pay them any notice at all, it is usually to dismiss them as cranks. There is, however, a
dark side to the uyoku: it acts as a volunteer police force for right-wing and right-leaning politicians, effectively
prohibiting criticism of the emperor. This is done by intimidating would-be critics with threats of violence, which
are occasionally carried out.
Despite initial successes, the war was disastrous for Japan. On 18 April 1942 B-25 bombers
carried out the first bombing and strafing raid on Tokyo, with 364 casualties. Much worse was
to come. Incendiary bombing commenced in March 1944, notably on the nights of the 9th and
10th, when some two-fifths of the city, mainly in the Shitamachi area, went up in smoke and
70,000 to 80,000 lives were lost. The same raids destroyed Asakusas Sens-ji (p85), and later raids
BACKGROUND HISTORY
lonelyplanet.com
ration the city embarked on a frenzy of construction unequalled in its history. Many Japanese see
this time as a turning point in the nations history, the moment when Japan finally recovered from
the devastation of WWII to emerge as a fully fledged member of the modern world economy.
Construction and modernisation continued at a breakneck pace through the 70s, with the
interruption of two Middle East oil crises, to reach a peak in the late 80s, when wildly inflated
real-estate prices and stock speculation fuelled what is now known as the bubble economy.
Based on the price paid for the most expensive real estate at the time, the land value of Tokyo
exceeded that of the entire United States, and Japanese companies went on a purchasing spree
of international icons including Pebble Beach Golf Course, the Rockefeller Center and Colum-
bia Pictures movie studio. When the bubble began to burst in 1989 with the crash of the stock
market, the economy went into a protracted slump that was to last more than 15 years.
There were other, more disturbing, troubles in Japanese society. In March 1995 members of
the Aum Shinriky doomsday cult released sarin nerve gas on crowded Tokyo subways, killing 12
and injuring more than 5000. This, together with the Kbe earthquake of the same year, signalled
the end of Japans feeling of omnipotence, born of the unlimited successes of the 80s.
CITY OF THE FUTURE
Tokyo has weathered a long hangover since the heady days of the bubble economy. The doldrums

destroyed Meiji-jing (p109). By the time Emperor Hirohito made his famous capitulation address
to the Japanese people on 15 August 1945, much of Tokyo had been decimated sections of it
were almost completely depopulated, like the charred remains of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, after
they were devastated by atomic bombs. Food and daily necessities were scarce, the population
was exhausted by the war effort and fears of marauding US military overlords were high.
THE POSTWAR MIRACLE
Tokyos phoenixlike rise from the ashes of WWII and its emergence as a major global city
is something of a miracle. Once again, Tokyoites did not take the devastation as an op-
portunity to redesign their city (as did Nagoya, for example), but rebuilt where the old had
once stood.
During the US occupation in the early postwar years, Tokyo was something of a honky-tonk
town. Now-respectable areas such as Yrakuch were the haunt of the so-called pan-pan girls
(prostitutes), and areas such as Ikebukuro and Ueno had thriving black-market zones. The remains
of Uenos black market can be seen in Ameyoko Arcade (p70), which is still a lively market.
In 1947 Japan adopted its postwar constitution, with the now-famous Article 9, which barred
the use of military force in settling international disputes and maintaining a military for warfare
(although the nation does maintain a self-defence force).
By 1951, with a boom in Japanese profits arising from the Korean War, Tokyo rebuilt rapidly,
especially the central business district, and the subway began to take on its present form. The
once-bombed-out city has never looked back from this miraculous economic growth.
During the 1960s and 70s, Tokyo reemerged as one of the centres of growing Asian national-
ism (the first phase was in the 1910s and 20s). Increasing numbers of Asian students came to
Tokyo, taking home with them new ideas about Asias role in the postwar world.
BACKGROUND HISTORY
have finally given way to lacklustre growth and unemployment that flirts with record 5% highs,
but the government maintains the economy is still on a recovery path.
The declining birth rate and population pose major problems for Tokyo and Japan the
birth rate for the capital is below 1% (even lower than the national average of 1.24%), while
Japans elderly continue to make up an ever-larger share of the population. No-one really
knows how the system will manage to support the 30% of the population that is projected
to be over the age of 65 in the next 25 years. The workforce is shrinking, but there are few
signs that Japan is ready to embrace Western-style immigration, recently making all foreign
visitors to the country subject to fingerprinting and facial photography upon entry as part of
its security policy.
The government may fear deception and fraud, but domestic headlines are rife with cor-
porate malfeasance scandals, from revelations that buildings in Tokyo have been constructed
with forged quake-resistance data to news that Japanese paper companies have been passing
off unused paper as recycled material.
Japan is also struggling with its international role, particularly the leeway allowed by its
Peace Constitution; former Prime Minister Koizumi Junichirs decision to deploy Self-
Defense Force (SDF) troops to aid allies in the war in Iraq was met with massive protests.
The Defense Agency has been promoted to a fully fledged ministry and Japanese military
cooperation with the US has escalated. One result was that the ruling Liberal Democratic Party
(LDP) lost control of the upper house of parliament in 2007, allowing opposition Democrats
to cancel an SDF antiterrorism refuelling mission in the Indian Ocean for several months
until its resumption in 2008.
Although Prime Minister Yasuo Fukuda managed a rare summit meeting with Chinese
leaders, Japans international image has continued to suffer due to its scientific whale-hunting
programme and a perceived lack of repentance over its wartime atrocities. The government

1964 196869 1972 1989 1995 2007

Tokyo Olympic Games are held, marking
Japans postwar reintegration into the
international community and the first time
the Games are hosted by a non-Western
country.
Tokyo University students take over admin-
istrative buildings to protest the Vietnam
War. No-one is allowed to graduate in the
1969 academic year and entrance examina-
tions are cancelled.
Okinawa, captured and held by US forces in
WWII, is returned to Japan. High concen-
tration of US military bases on the islands
has angered locals ever since.
Death of Emperor Hirohito; Heisei era
begins as Hirohitos son Akihito ascends
the Chrysanthemum Throne; stock market
decline begins, initiating a decade-long
economic slump in Japan.
Doomsday cult Aum Shinriky releases
sarin gas on the Tokyo subway, killing 12
and injuring more than 5000. Guru Shk
Asahara is sentenced to death for Aum-
related crimes in 2004.
Ruling Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) loses
majority in the House of Councillors to
the opposition Democratic Party of Japan.
Financial scandals and political gaffes
by LDP members and a national pension
accounting scandal are blamed.

28 29
lonelyplanet.com
CRISIS AVERTED FOR NOW
On 6 September 2006 Japan exhaled a long-held breath news had just broken that a future emperor was born. Tipping
the scales at 2.56kg, Prince Hisahito, son of Prince and Princess Akishino, was the first male child born into the moribund
Imperial Family in more than four decades, averting a crisis of succession to the Chrysanthemum Throne.
Japanese had been debating a change to the 1947 Imperial Household Law to allow females to ascend the throne
since reigning Emperor Akihitos eldest son, Crown Prince Naruhito, has had no male children. The amendment might
have made his young daughter, Princess Aiko, the first reigning empress since Empress Go-Sakuramachi in the 18th
century; the succession laws were modified in the 19th century so that only men could be emperor.
Following Prince Hisahitos birth, a government bill to change the 1947 law was dropped, and the debate, which
even included proposals to have concubines for Imperial princes, was quietly shelved. Currently third in line for the
throne, the baby prince will eventually face tremendous pressure from the arch-conservative Imperial Household Agency
to produce a male heir and maintain the worlds oldest continuous hereditary monarchy. But if, like most men in the
Imperial Family, he only has daughters or no children at all, it will be dj vu all over again.
has turned to Japanese pop culture products such as anime (animated film) and manga as a
foreign policy tool in the hopes that popular cartoon heroes will be better than bureaucrats at
convincing people to embrace cool Japan.
Little of this phases Tokyo, however. It has continued to build new subway lines and mega-
BACKGROUND ARTS
complexes such as Tokyo Midtown, and has mounted a bid to host the Olympic Games in
2016. With that old Edo pluck, Tokyoites shrug off the looming demographic crisis and hope
the Games can give their city a shot in the arm as it carves out a new role for itself as a centre
of anime, manga, video games and other globally hot media.
ARTS
Tokyos density has a sheer visual quality that
sometimes makes it seem like a lurid anime
or video-game backdrop. In its better mo-
ments it may resemble an ukiyo-e (wood-block
print), such as when snow blanches the roof of
CONTEMPORARY ART VENUES
Sens-ji in Asakusa. Thats when its easy to National Art Center, Tokyo (p99)
see where the Japanese of old found inspiration Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum
in producing the wealth of traditional arts that of Modern Art; p74)
Tokyo has helped foster. But the aesthetics of Mori Art Museum (p95)
the built environment can also take the form Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (p127)
of something as simple as the adorable, expres-
sive graphics in advertisements or the way a department store clerk wraps a package.
If its Art with a capital A youre after, Tokyo is experiencing a renaissance. Youll find it
in the large museums, in matchbox-sized galleries, decorating the streets, at train stations and
convention halls, on hulking stages and in tiny underground theatres in quiet neighbourhoods,
and, incredibly, a lot of it is really good.
CONTEMPORARY ARTS
Visual Arts
Tokyo has one of the worlds most vibrant contemporary art scenes and dozens of galleries
throughout the city at which to view it.
The opening of the Mori Art Museum in 2003 was something of a watershed for the con-
temporary arts. More than a dozen excellent art galleries are consolidated in buildings such as
Complex in Roppongi (p99) and near the eastern bank of the Sumida-gawa (p127). Its fair to say
that the citys contemporary aesthetic heartbeat has never been heard more clearly.
Artists to look for include Miyajima Tatsuo, whose sculptures and installation pieces often
incorporate numeric LCD displays; Sugimoto Hiroshi, famous for his time-transcending pho-
tos (eg exposing the film to a movie screen while the entire movie runs); and Nara Yoshitomo
30
and Murakami Takashi, both heavily influenced by manga (Japanese comics, p78). The sig-
lonelyplanet.com
nature style of Kusama Yayoi is motifs of dots and nets, which make their way onto hanging
art, sculptures and even clothing. Ishiuchi Miyako appeared in the Japan pavilion at the 2005
Venice Biennale, with her collection Mother, exploring artefacts of her own mothers turbulent
life in penetrating photographs.
Music
Tokyo has a huge, shape-shifting music scene supported by a local market of audiophiles willing
to try almost anything. International artists make a point of swinging through on global tours,
and the local scene surfaces every night in one of the citys thousands of live houses.
Western classical music (p178) is performed by several outstanding local orchestras, such as
the NHK Symphony Orchestra and the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra, and by visiting ensem-
bles. Opera (p178) too has come to stay. Notable companies include the Fujiwara Opera, which
specialises in French and Italian operas, and the Nikkai Opera, which mounts performances
of Mozart and Wagner.
The jazz scene is enormous (see p186), as are the followings for rock, House, electronica and
Latin jazz.
Mainstream music is dominated by the commercial J-Pop. Some of the biggest acts are young
aidoru (idol) singers who owe their popularity to cute looks and a flood of media appearances.
BACKGROUND ARTS
The all-girl group Morning Musume has been the standard in recent years, keeping things
fresh by regularly graduating some of its dozen-or-so members and holding auditions for
new ones. The boy-band equivalent is SMAP, which has prospered since 1991 with about half
as many members. Other current top J-Pop artists include singer-songwriter Utada Hikaru,
the Korean-born Boa, Hamasaki Ayumi and long-time favourite Southern All Stars. Japanese
bands also follow Western music trends such as hip-hop and rap.
Tokyo is famous for its cutting-edge club music scene. DJs here are as numerous as they
come; some of the biggest names are DJ Cornelius, Ken Ishii and DJ Kentaro.
Enka is a musical style popular among older generations but its nostalgic charm occasionally
attracts younger audiences too. Its lyrics and emotions emphasise themes of longing and tears,
and musically its usually languidly paced and in a musical scale that borrows from traditional
Japanese music.
Tokyo is also one of the only cities in Asia where you may have the luxury of seeing up-and-
coming performers playing in intimate venues. See p186 for more on where to go to check out
the wide variety of music on offer.
And no discussion of the Tokyo music scene can be complete without a mention of karaoke.
Karaoke started in Japan in 1971 and remains wildly popular, as a walk down just about any
alley at night will evidence. Go with a group, and youll almost certainly be expected to perform;
most karaoke bars and karaoke boxes (private rooms with karaoke equipment) have at least
a few English songs.
Commercial Theatre
Commercial theatre in Tokyo encompasses classical and contemporary dramas and musicals,
both home-grown and imported, staged by large entertainment companies and starring well-
known actors, singers and other celebrities. If youre struck by a sudden hankering for a Royal
Shakespeare Company production of Romeo and Juliet, or a Japanese-language performance
of the Phantom of the Opera you might just be in luck.
Popular but quirky, the all-female Takarazuka troupe offers a musical experience that
is unlike any other. Founded in 1913, partly as an inversion of the all-male kabuki theatre
and partly as a form of entertainment for a growing male middle-class with money to burn,
Takarazuka combines traditional Japanese elements with Western musical styles. Interest-
ingly, in light of its history, its most devoted admirers now comprise young women who
swoon with romantic abandon over the troupes beautiful drag kings. Takarazuka adopted
its present revue format in the late 1920s, and except for the WWII years during which
the troupe proved an ideal propaganda tool has continued to perform musicals and revues
set in exotic locations.
31
lonelyplanet.com
Underground Theatre
Theatre the world over spent the 1960s redefining itself, and it was no different in Tokyo. The
shogekij (small theatre) movement, also called angura (underground), has given Japan many
of its leading playwrights, directors and actors. Like their counterparts in the West, these pro-
ductions took place in any space available in small theatres, tents, basements, open spaces
and on street corners.
Todays shogekij takes on realistic themes, such as modern Japanese history, war and en-
vironmental degradation. Socially and politically critical dramas (such as those by Kaneshita
Tatsuo and Sakate Yji), psychological dramas (eg by Iwamatsu Ry, Suzue Toshir and Hirata
Oriza) and satirical portrayals of modern society (eg by Nagai Ai and Makino Nozomi) have
come to the fore and even attracted attention overseas.
Venues include the Suzunari Theatre outside the city centre in Shimokitazawa, and Die
Pratze, near Kagurazaka Station in Tokyo. And there always seems to be at least one troupe
performing English-language theatre. See p177 for listings.
But
In many ways, but (contemporary dance)is Japans most exciting dance form. It is also the new-
est, dating only from 1959, when Hijikata Tatsumi (192886) gave the first but performance.
But was born out of a rejection of the excessive formalisation that characterises traditional forms
BACKGROUND ARTS
of Japanese dance and of an intention to return to the ancient roots of the Japanese soul.
But performances are best likened to performance art rather than traditional dance. During
a performance, one or more dancers use their naked or seminaked bodies to express the most
elemental and intense human emotions. Nothing is forbidden in but and performances often
deal with taboo topics such as sexuality and death. For this reason, critics often describe but
as scandalous, and but dancers delight in pushing the boundaries of what can be considered
tasteful in artistic performance.
Cinema
Japan has a vibrant, proud, critically acclaimed cinematic tradition. Renewed international
attention since the mid-1990s has reinforced interest in domestic films, which account for an
estimated 40% of box-office receipts nearly double the level of most European countries. This
includes not only artistically important works, but also films in the science- fiction, horror and
monster-stomps-Tokyo genres for which Japan is also known.
The golden age of Japanese cinema began with Kurosawa Akiras film Rashmon, which
won both the Golden Lion at the 1951 Venice International Film Festival and an Oscar for
best foreign film. The increasing realism and high artistic standards of the period are evident
in such milestone films as Tky Monogatari (Tokyo Story; 1953), by the legendary zu
Yasujir; Mizoguchi Kenjis classics Ugetsu Monogatari (Tales of Ugetsu; 1953) and Saikaku
Ichidai Onna (The Life of Oharu; 1952); and Kurosawas 1954 masterpiece Shichinin no
Samurai (The Seven Samurai), which was later remade into the classic Western movie, The
Magnificent Seven.
The 1960s gave the world such landmarks as Ichikawa Kons Chushingura (47 Samurai; 1962,
based on the Ak incident) and Kurosawas Yjimbo (1961).
Up against TV and, later, video, cinema attendance in Japan declined through the 1980s,
yet Japanese filmmakers continued to set standards: Kurosawa garnered acclaim worldwide
for Kagemusha (The Shadow Warrior; 1980), which shared the Palme dOr at Cannes, and
Ran (1985). Imamura Shheis heartrending Narayama Bushiko (The Ballad of Narayama)
won the Grand Prix at Cannes in 1983. Itami Jz became perhaps the most widely known
Japanese director outside Japan after Kurosawa with such biting satires as Osshiki (The
Funeral; 1985), Tampopo (1986) and Marusa no Onna (A Taxing Woman; 1988). shima
Nagisa scored critical success with Senjo no Merry Christmas (Merry Christmas Mr Law-
rence) in 1983.
In the 1990s Japanese directors received top honours at two of the worlds most prestigious
film festivals: Unagi (Eel; 1997), Imamura Shheis black-humoured look at human natures
dark side won the Palme dOr in Cannes and Beat Takeshi Kitano took the Golden Lion in
32
lonelyplanet.com
TOKYO ON FILM
Tokyo Story (Tky Monogatari; 1953) zu Yasujirs story of an older couple who come to Tokyo to visit their
children only to find themselves treated with disrespect and indifference.
Godzilla (Gojira; 1954) Its become almost a clich, but watch it again and youll find a powerful meta-
phor in this city that spent the first half of the 20th century being beaten down and getting right back up
again.
The Bad Sleep Well (Warui Yatsu Hodo Yoku Nemuru; 1960) Kurosawa Akiras first film after breaking from Toho
studios centres on a protagonist who marries the bosss daughter as part of an intricate plan to avenge his fathers
death.
Tokyo Pop (1988) Fran Rubel Kuzuis breezy comedy about a lonely American songstress who finds redemption,
fame and love in the here-today-gone-tomorrow world of J-pop.
Shall We Dance? (1997) A bored salaryman risks it all to learn the low-brow art of ballroom dancing. Footage
includes some wistful shots of Tokyo at night.
Distance (2001) A subtle meditation on togetherness and loneliness, Koreeda Hirokazus follow-up to After Life
follows four people into the woods as they seek the truth about lovers and friends who belonged to a murderous
cult. Though clearly an examination of the phenomena of Aum Shinriky (see p28) and the subway sarin attacks,
this film is blissfully free of dogma.
Lost in Translation (2003) Tokyo takes on a muted gleam in Sofia Coppolas Oscar-winner about two guests at
the Park Hyatt, sharing a moment away from loveless marriages. Bill Murray is in finest deadpan form, and the
BACKGROUND ARTS
movie made Scarlett Johansson a star.
Tokyo Godfathers (2003) Kon Satoshis animated film uses a group of homeless men to explore the citys post-
bubble underside. They come across a baby and dont quite know whats hit them.
Nobody Knows (Dare mo Shiranai; 2004) Koreeda Hirokazus slow and depressing but somehow life-affirming
tale of four children forced to fend for themselves after their heinous mother abandons them. Based on true
events.
Kamikaze Girls (Shimotsuma Monogatari; 2004) One of the daffiest buddy movies ever made, and the only one
we know that pairs a country girl obsessed with Lolita outfits from Tokyo boutiques with a biker chick who spits
to punctuate her sentences. Written and directed by Tetsuya Nakashima.
Train Main (Densha Otoko; 2005) After a shy otaku (supergeek) falls for a woman he defended from a drunkard,
he turns to online pals for help with his feelings of love. This hit from director Masanori Murakami helped put
otaku and Akihabara culture on the map.
Venice for Hana-bi (Fireworks; 1997), a tale of life and death, and the violence and honour that
links them. The undisputed king of current Japanese cinema, Beat Takeshi is a true renais-
sance man of the media; he stars in and directs his films, and is an author, poet and frequent
TV personality.
These days, a new generation of directors is emerging, it includes: Izuru Kumasaka, whose
Asyl-Park and Love Hotel won Best First Feature at the 2008 Berlin Film Festival; Koreeda
Hirokazu with Dare mo Shiranai (Nobody Knows; 2004), winner of the Best Actor prize at the
Cannes Film Festival for its young star Yagira Yya; and Kurosawa Kiyoshi with Cure.
Naturally, the worlds blockbusters also screen widely in Tokyo. See p188 for cinemas.
Fiction
Most of Japans national literature since the Edo period has been penned by authors who have
written about or spent most of their lives in Tokyo. From Natsume Soseki to Mishima Yukio
to Murakami Haruki, the literature written in and about the metropolis has served as the play-
ground of the national imagination. Not surprisingly, both of Japans Nobel Laureates, Kawabata
Yasunari and e Kenzaburo spent the bulk of their writing lives in Tokyo (e eventually left
to escape the Japanese press).
And the trend continues as a new generation of Tokyo writers takes the stage. In April 2004
the Akutagawa Prize one of the nations most prestigious was awarded to the two youngest
Japanese writers to have ever received it, both of them women: 19-year-old Kanehara Hitomi
and Wataya Risa, aged 20. The previous youngest winners included e Kenzaburo and current
Tokyo governor Ishihara Shintar, who were both 23 when they won.
33
lonelyplanet.com
TOKYO FICTION
I Am a Cat (19051906), Sseki Natsume Ssekis best known for Kokoro, but this merciless turn-of-the-century The Tosa school, which followed the yamato-e (Japanese world) style of painting (often used
narrative, told from the point of view of a cat, is way more fun.
Snow Country (1948), Kawabata Yasunari Written in the years just before WWII, this novel by one of Japans two
Nobel Laureates tells the tale of a Tokyo dilettantes cruel, tragic affair with a mountain geisha.
The Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea (1963), and After the Banquet (1960), Mishima Yukio If youre look-
ing for unsettling beauty, reach for the former. History buffs will want the latter tome, which was at the centre of
a court case that became Japans first privacy lawsuit.
A Personal Matter (1964), Kenzaburo e A 27-year-old school teachers child is born brain-damaged. His life from this period.
claustrophobic, his marriage failing, he dreams of escaping to Africa while planning the murder of his son.
Coin Locker Babies (1980), Murakami Ryu A coming-of-age tale centred on the lives of Kiku and Hashi, two
boys left to die in coin lockers by their mothers. Both survive. The latter part of the book follows Hashi through
Toxictown, a futuristic danger zone. This is Murakami at his most poetic.
Norwegian Wood (1987), Murakami Haruki Set in the late 60s against the backdrop of student protests, Norwe-
gian Wood is both the portrait of a young artist (as recounted by a reminiscent narrator) and an ode to first loves.
Murakami is perhaps Japans most celebrated novelist, and this is his most celebrated work.
Kitchen (1988), Yoshimoto Banana Yoshimoto gets a bad rap as a lightweight writer. Its true, Kitchen relent-
lessly chronicles Tokyos fast-food menus and 80s pop culture, though underlying the superficial digressions are
hints at a darker deeper world of death, loss and loneliness.
BACKGROUND ARTS
Idoru (1997), William Gibson This novel paints Tokyos dark postearthquake future, after the grim reconstruc-
tion made possible by ominous nanotechnology. Shinjuku looms large, as does megawatt Akihabara.
Out (1998), Kirino Natsuo A gritty thriller about downtrodden female employees of a bent (boxed-lunch) fac-
tory who become a band of murderesses. Winner of Japans grand prize for crime fiction.
Snakes and Earrings (2003), Hitomi Kanehara This Akutagawa Prizewinner traces the downward spiral of a
woman spellbound by a mysterious tattoo artist.
Tokyo Year Zero (2007), David Peace In devastated postwar Tokyo, a not-so-saintly police detective tracks a
serial killer.
Poetry
While Japanese traditional poetry, such as the 17-syllable haiku or the 31-syllable waka, is most
closely associated with the ancient capital of Kyoto, it has a history in Tokyo as well. Japans
most famous poet of all time, Matsuo Bash, led a literary society here and began his journey
to write his renowned work Oku no Hosomichi on the banks of the Sumida-gawa. Today its
not uncommon to see large busloads of retirees setting off on haiku composition trips, often
to inspired locations such as the stops on Bashs journey through northern Japan. Haiku
remains extremely popular and its five-seven-five syllable structure is also used in the media
to construct ad slogans.
Contemporary poetry in Tokyo is alive and well and read mostly by the dedicated. One excep-
tion to this trend is Tanikawa Shuntaro (Map of Days, Naked), whose inspired verse has earned
him not only a loyal following, but interviews in fashion and pop culture magazines. Also of
note is Shiraishi Kazuko (Let Those Who Appear), whose rowdy, lyrical poetry has earned her
comparisons to American Beat poet, Allen Ginsberg.
TRADITIONAL ARTS
You dont have to visit a museum to see old art forms in Tokyo. From kabuki-attired pitch-
men in TV ads to lacquered mousepads to folding fans sensu (folding fans) emblazoned with
corporate logos, traditional arts and crafts are everywhere in the capital, and are subject to
continuous innovation.
Painting
From AD 794 to 1600, Japanese painting borrowed from Chinese and Western techniques and
media, ultimately transforming these towards its own aesthetic end. By the beginning of the Edo
period (16001868), which was marked by a wide range of painting styles attracting enthusiastic
34
patronage, Japanese art had come completely into its own. The Kan school, initiated more than
lonelyplanet.com
a century before the beginning of the Edo period, continued to be in demand for its depiction
of subjects connected with Confucianism, mythical Chinese creatures or scenes from nature.
on scrolls during the Heian period from 7941185), received commissions from nobility eager
for scenes from ancient classics of Japanese literature.
Finally, the Rimpa school (beginning from around 1600) absorbed the earlier styles of
painting and progressed beyond conventions to produce a strikingly decorative and deli-
cately shaded form of painting. The works produced by a trio of outstanding artists from
this school Tawaraya Statsu, Honami Ketsu and Ogata Krin rank among the finest
Wood-block Prints
Far from the Chinese-inspired landscapes and religious-themed paintings, ukiyo-e (literally
pictures of the floating world; wood-block prints) were for the common people, used in
advertising or in much the same way posters are used today. The subjects of these wood-block
prints were images of everyday life, characters in kabuki (p36) plays and scenes from the floating
world, a term derived from a Buddhist metaphor for lifes fleeting joys.
Edos particular floating world revolved around pleasure districts such as the Yoshiwara. In
BACKGROUND ARTS
this topsy-turvy kingdom, an inversion of the usual social hierarchies imposed by the Toku-
gawa shgunate, money meant more than rank, actors and artists were the arbiters of style,
and prostitutes elevated their art to such a level that their accomplishments matched those of
the women of noble families.
The vivid colours, novel composition and flowing lines of ukiyo-e caused great excitement
when they finally arrived in the West; the French came to dub it Japonisme. Ukiyo-e was a
key influence on impressionists and post-impressionists (eg Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet and
Degas). Yet among the Japanese, the prints were hardly given more than passing consideration
millions were produced annually in Edo, often thrown away or used as wrapping paper for
pottery. For many years, the Japanese continued to be perplexed by the keen interest foreigners
took in this art form.
The compact but exceptional Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum (p111) has rotating exhibi-
tions, while the Edo-Tokyo Museum (p125) has a section describing ukiyo-e and how they were
made.
Ceramics
Japan has one of the worlds great ceramic traditions, from early Jmon earthenware to the
humble aesthetic of the tea ceremony and brightly coloured vessels sold overseas for big prices.
Tokyo is not a significant centre for ceramic making, but has some great venues to learn about
ceramic styles and their appreciation.
Various museums around town host ceramics exhibitions Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan
(Tokyo National Museum; p73) is a particularly good example. Department-store art galleries
are also good places to catch a show. The remarkable online gallery www.e-yakimono.net has
all the information you need about ceramic styles and appreciation.
Folk Crafts
The mingei (folk crafts) movement was launched in the early 20th century as an attempt to
counter desire for cheap mass-produced goods and promote the works of ordinary craftspeople
instead. Central to the mingei philosophy is yo no bi (beauty through use), where everyday
objects should bring pleasure through their aesthetics, touch and ease of use.
Mingei movement leaders included potters Hamada Shoji (18941978) and Kawai Kanjir
(18901966), the eccentric genius potter and painter Munakata Shik (190375), Serizawa
Keisuke (18951984) for his amazing textiles and the British-born potter Bernard Leach
(18871979).
To see some mingei works, visit the Crafts Gallery (p51) of Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan
(National Museum of Modern Art).
35
lonelyplanet.com
Ikebana
Key differences between ikebana (flower arranging) and western forms of flower arranging
are the illusion of space, the interplay between the flowers and the vessels or baskets used to
display them, and the sense of balance created when a flower is placed just so. The popularity
of ikebana is evident in the eye-pleasing creations in the citys shop windows and the tokonoma
(sacred alcoves) of its private residences. Bamboo baskets, remarkable for their complexity and
delicacy, are popular for use in ikebana.
See p196 for information about ikebana classes.
Tea Ceremony
First things first: the tea ceremony is not about drinking tea (well, only a little). As much a
philosophy as an art, sad (the way of tea), combines a host of related arts and crafts: ceramics,
kimono, calligraphy, ikebana, food, traditional architecture and garden design.
Originally the pastime of samurai and Zen priests, sad placed great emphasis on the aes-
thetic qualities of simplicity and naturalness, which together with humility create a spirit called
wabi-sabi. Tea-master Sen no Riky codified the practice in the Momoyama period. Today a
proper tea ceremony takes place in a tea room of 4.5 tatami mats. Seasonal ikebana and scroll
paintings, the selection of ceramics and utensils used in the preparation and serving of the tea,
the sweets accompanying the tea, and the design of the adjoining garden should all unite to
BACKGROUND ARTS
create an only-in-this-moment experience.
Opportunities to participate in a full tea ceremony are exceedingly rare anywhere in Japan; if
you are invited, accept (but not so eagerly as to show immodesty). Otherwise, many places around
town offer the same sort of whisked green tea (matcha) with a sweet in far less formal settings. The
teahouse at Hama Riky Onshi-teien (p66) is particularly lovely, located in the centre of a pond.
Inquire at shrines, temples and smaller museums for other options.
N Another unique aspect of kabuki is the kakegoe, enthusiastic fans who shout out the name of
N originated from the combination of indigenous Shint-related dance and mime traditions,
and dance forms that originated elsewhere in Asia, and it really came to the fore in Kyoto
between 1350 and 1450. Rather than a drama in the usual sense, a n (dance-drama) seeks to
express a poetic moment by symbolic and almost abstract means: glorious movements, grand
and exaggerated costumes and hairstyles, sonorous chorus and music, and subtle expression.
Actors frequently wear masks while they perform before a spare, unchanging set, which features
a painting of a large pine tree.
Most n plays centre around two principal characters: the shite, who is sometimes a living
person but more often a demon or a ghost whose soul cannot rest; and the waki, who leads the
main character towards the plays climactic moment. The elegant language used is that of the
court of the 14th century.
Some visitors find n rapturous and captivating; others (including many Japanese) find its
subtlety all too subtle. If you are going to take in a n performance, familiarise yourself with
the story and characters beforehand. If all else fails, the intermissions of n performances are
punctuated by kygen (short, lively comic farces).
For performance information, see p176.
Kabuki
If n has a history of catering to the elites, with themes of the afterlife and classical Japanese
legend, kabuki originated as art for the common people, with dialogue, lively music, breath-
taking costumes, an absence of masks, casts of dozens and stagecraft that was and remains
unique in the world of theatre.
Although kabuki is most closely associated with Edo, it began in Kyoto around 1600 when
a charismatic shrine priestess called Okuni and her troupe started entertaining crowds with a
new type of dance people dubbed kabuki, a slang expression that meant cool or in vogue. periods, and while well known, reflect a social milieu unknown to modern listeners. Ac-
Okunis dancers were not above prostituting their talents, and when fights for the ladies affec-
tions became a bit too frequent, order-obsessed Tokugawa officials declared the entertainment
36
a threat to public morality. Womens kabuki
lonelyplanet.com
was banned, and troupes of adolescent men
took over the female roles, a development that
only fed the flames of samurai ardour. Finally,
in 1653, the authorities mandated that only
adult men with shorn forelocks could perform TRADITIONAL ART VENUES
kabuki, which gave rise to one of kabukis Bijutsukan Kgeikan (Crafts Gallery; p51)
most fascinating and artistic elements, the Muse Tomo (p99)
onnagata (an actor who specialises in portray- Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National
ing women). Museum; p73)
Over several centuries, kabuki has devel- Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum (p111)
oped a repertoire of popular themes, such
as famous historical accounts and stories of
love-suicide, while also borrowing copiously
from n (opposite), kygen and bunraku (below). Many kabuki plays border on melodrama, while
others vary from stories of bravery to elaborate dance pieces.
Unlike Western theatre, kabuki is actor-centred. Kabuki actors are born to the art form
the leading families of modern kabuki go back many generations and training begins in
childhood. Sons often follow their fathers into the yago (kabuki acting house) to train in
order to perpetuate an ancestors name on stage. Thus, the generations of certain families (eg
BACKGROUND ARTS
Bando and Ichikawa) run into the double digits. The Japanese audience takes great interest in
watching how different generations of one family perform the same part. Actors today enjoy
great social prestige, and their activities on and off the stage attract as much interest as those
of film and TV stars.
Ingenious features of kabuki include the revolving stage (a kabuki invention), the hanam-
ichi (a raised walkway connecting the stage to the back of the theatre, which is used for
dramatic entrances and exits), koken (on-stage assistants) and hikinuki (on-stage costume
changes).
the yago (home studio) of their favourite actors at pivotal moments such as well-known lines
of dialogue or poses called mie. Actors note they miss this reinforcement when performing
overseas (but dont try it yourself!). See Kabuki-za (p176 and opposite) for more details.
Puppet Theatre
Japans traditional puppet theatre developed at the same time as kabuki, when the shamisen (a
three-stringed lute), imported from Okinawa, was combined with traditional puppetry tech-
niques and jruri (narrative chanting). Bunraku, as it came to be known in the 19th century,
addresses many of the same themes as kabuki, and in fact many of the most famous plays in
the kabuki repertoire were originally written for the puppet theatre. Bunraku involves large
puppets nearly two-thirds life size manipulated by up to three black-robed puppeteers. The
puppeteers do not speak; a seated narrator tells the story and provides the voices of the char-
acters, expressing their feelings with smiles, weeping and starts of surprise and fear. Although
bunraku is most closely associated with Osaka, the best place to see it in Tokyo is the New
National Theatre (Shin Kokuritsu Gekij; p178).
Rakugo
A traditional Japanese style of comic monologue, rakugo (literally, dropped word) dates
back to the Edo period (16001868). The performer, usually in kimono, sits on a square
cushion on a stage. Props are limited to a fan and hand towel. The monologue begins with
a makura (prologue), which is followed by the story itself and, finally, the ochi (punch line,
or drop, which is another pronunciation of the Chinese character for raku in rakugo).
Many of the monologues in the traditional rakugo repertoire date back to the Edo and Meiji
cordingly, many practitioners today also write new monologues addressing issues relevant
to contemporary life.
37
lonelyplanet.com

ARCHITECTURE Shinohara finally came to design in a style

he called Modern Next, incorporating both
Tokyos awesome built environment looks part Legoland, part sci-fi video-game backdrop, modern and postmodern design ideas com-
part heaving neon anarchy. Disasters and lax planning laws have obliterated most heritage bined with Japanese influences. This style can
buildings and modern ones are scrapped and rebuilt every 20 years or so, giving the cityscape be seen in his Centennial Hall (1987) at the
an inspired heterogeneous character similar to an immense Escher print. Unlike Kyoto, laid Tokyo Institute of Technology, an elegant and
out under grid-based Chinese geomancy principles, the city of Tokyo evolved concentrically uplifting synthesis of clashing forms in shiny
around Edo Castle, and its medieval design has a strong labyrinthine dimension; several excel- metal cladding. Maki, the master of minimal-
lent English-language books explore these themes (p27). The resulting cityscape is a fantastic ism, pursued design in a modernist style while
mishmash of impermanent structures grafted onto ancient patterns, so old and new are always still emphasising elements of nature such as
right before your eyes. the roof of his Tokyo Metropolitan Gymna-
sium (1990; p197), which takes on the form of
a sleek metal insect. Another Maki design, the
FOREIGN INFLUENCES Spiral Building (1985; p113) is a favourite with
Until the end of the Edo period (16001868), the citys houses and shops were almost entirely Tokyo residents for its user-friendly design,
constructed of wood, paper and tile, and early photos show a remarkable visual harmony in
gallery space, caf and shops.
the old skyline. Japan first opened its doors to Western architecture with the Meiji Restoration. Isozaki Arata, who originally worked
Japanese architects immediately responded to these new influences, but some 20 years later,
under Tange, also promoted the Metabolist
a nationalistic push against the influence of the West saw a resurgence in the popularity of style before becoming interested in geom-
traditional Japanese building styles.
etry and postmodernism. His work includes
BACKGROUND ARCHITECTURE
lonelyplanet.com
CONTEMPORARY BUILDINGS
Spiral Building (1985; p113) Clean lines and a
user-friendly interior have made this design by Maki
Fumihiko one of Aoyamas best-loved buildings.
Asahi Flame (1989; Map p86) Famously capped
by a representation of a golden flame come to be
known as the golden turd, Philippe Starcks late
Bubble-era design is one of Tokyos most recognis-
able modern structures.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (1991;
p116) Tange Kenzos new city hall has both heft
and airiness; great, free observatories mean its
popular too.
Edo-Tokyo Museum (1992; p125) Architect
Kikutane seems to have thumbed his nose at time

BACKGROUND ARCHITECTURE
This ambivalence towards Western architecture continued until after WWI, when foreign the Cultural Centre (1990) in Mito, about an
architects, such as Frank Lloyd Wright came to build the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo (since demol- in designing a history museum that so clearly
hour from Tokyo, which contains a striking represents a vision of the future. Wonderful Star
ished for safety reasons, although the faade can be seen at Meiji Mura, a culture-history park geometric, snakelike tower clad in different
near Nagoya, two hours from Tokyo on the bullet train). Wright introduced the International Wars feel.
metals, and the Museum of Contemporary Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center (1994;
Style, characterised by sleek lines, cubic forms and materials such as glass, steel and brick. Other Art in Los Angeles.
pre-WWII monoliths still stand in Marunouchi and Yrakuch opposite the east side of Hibiya p132) The signature building of Odaiba, and well
Kikutake, meanwhile, went on to design the worthy of the title.
Park; American bombers spared them and they were used for postwar command facilities. Edo-Tokyo Museum (1992; p125). This enor-
After WWII the aggressively sculptural stone and concrete work of French architect Le Cor- Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (1995;
mous structure, encompasses almost 50,000 p127) Yanagisawa Takahikos wild design feels like
busier exerted strong influence on Japanese architects, and by the mid-1960s Japanese architects sq metres of built space and reaches 62.2m
were beginning to attract attention on the world stage for their unique style. an experiment in outrageous geometry. Steel and
(the height of Edo Castle) at its peak. concrete blend harmoniously into the surrounding
Another Tokyo architect to break onto the urban park.
EARLY STYLE ICONS international scene in recent years is Tan-
iguchi Yoshio. He had some important com-
Tokyo International Forum (1996; p52) This
wonder of glass stands tall in Ginza.
The best known of Japans 20th-century builders was Tange Kenz (19132005). The mixing
of Le Corbusier and traditional Japanese forms can be seen in Tanges buildings, including the missions in Japan including the Gallery of Prada Aoyama Building (2003; p113) Jacques
National Gymnasium (1964; p108) in Yoyogi-ken, Hanae Mori Building (p112) and Sgetsu Kaikan Hry-ji Treasures (p74) at Tokyo Kokuritsu Herzog and Pierre de Meurons creation is a
(1977; p93). His skyscraping Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (1991; p116) was modelled Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum) marvel of white-on-white, encased in a crystalline
after the great European cathedrals look up from the plaza below and see if it doesnt remind but his first overseas project was as big as they honeycomb.
you of Notre Dame in Paris. Also look out for the Fuji TV Headquarters (1996; p132) in Odaiba; get: the 2004 renovation and expansion of the Roppongi Hills (2003; p94) Jon Jerde created a
its latticelike frame suspends a giant orb that looms like the Death Star over Tokyo Bay. Museum of Modern Art in New York. phenomenon of East-meets-West, ancient-meets-
In the 1960s architects such as Shinohara Kazuo, Kurokawa Kisho, Maki Fumihiko and Kikutake future and stark beauty-meets-crass-commercialism.
Kiyonori began a movement known as Metabolism, which promoted flexible spaces and functions
at the expense of fixed forms in building. Kurokawas Nakagin Capsule Tower (Map p65; 8-16-10 Ginza, Ch-ku;
NEXT GENERATION BUILDERS National Art Center, Tokyo (2006; p99) Kisho
Kurokawas last great work is an undulating
In the 1980s a second generation of Japanese
bedo Line to Tsukijishij) is a seminal work, designed as pods which could be removed whole from meshwork embracing seven large exhibition halls
architects began to gain recognition within the
a central core and replaced elsewhere. His last great work, the National Art Center in Roppongi unsupported by columns.
international architecture scene, including Ito
(2006), weaves undulating vertical forms into a strikingly latticed, organic structure. Toyo, Hasegawa Itsuko and And Tadao. This
younger group has continued to explore both
modernism and postmodernism, while incorporating the renewed interest in Japans architec-
TEMPLE OR SHRINE? tural heritage. One of Itos most striking recent designs, built in 2004, TODs Omote-sand Building (Map
p110; 5-1-15 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku), looks as if it was wrapped in surgical tape. Ands architecture utilises
The quickest way to distinguish a Buddhist temple from a Shint shrine is to examine the entrance. The main entrance
of a shrine is customarily a torii (Shint shrine gate), usually composed of two upright pillars, joined at the top by two
materials such as concrete to create strong geometric patterns that have so regularly appeared in
horizontal crossbars, the upper of which is normally slightly curved. Torii are often painted a bright vermilion, though Japans traditional architecture. Two of his landmarks are around Omote-sand: Collezione (6-1-3
some are left as bare wood. In contrast, the mon (main entrance gate) of a temple is often a much more substantial Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku) and Omote-sand Hills (Map p110; 4-12 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku). See also p112.
affair, constructed of several pillars or casements, joined at the top by a multitiered roof. Temple gates often contain Across the street from Omote-sand Hills is the new Christian Dior store (5-9-11 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku) by
guardian figures, usually Ni (deva kings). Keep in mind, though, that shrines and temples sometimes share the same a young protge of Itos, Sejima Kazuyo, together with her partner Nishizawa Rye in the firm
precincts, and it is not always easy to tell where one begins and the other ends. SANAA. They and others like them are quietly becoming the next generation of great Japanese
architects; projects include museums in Spain, in New York and Toledo, Ohio, USA.
38 39
lonelyplanet.com
ENVIRONMENT & PLANNING
Comprehensive pollution laws (introduced in 1967), one of the best public-transport systems
in the world and an ongoing commitment to recycling programmes continue to make Tokyo
one of Asias most environmentally viable supercities.
Adding to the liveability of the city are the numerous parks that dot the landscape. There
are thousands ranging from pocket parks to riverside promenades and sprawling affairs dating
back to samurai times, frequented year-round as the citys mild climate makes them accessible
and the marked changes in seasons make them appealing.
THE LAND
Tokyo is famously earthquake prone because it lies at the junction of the Eurasian, Pacific and
Philippine tectonic plates. To compound the problem, much of the city and many crowded
residential areas are built on loosely consolidated landfill, which could theoretically mix with
underground water during a big tremor, causing portions of the city to collapse.
On 17 January 1995 the city of Kbe (about 600km from Tokyo) was devastated by an
earthquake measuring 7.2 on the Richter scale, and it left Tokyoites wondering whats in store
for us?
Although imperceptible earthquakes happen nearly every day in Japan, the last one to give
BACKGROUND ENVIRONMENT & PLANNING
Tokyo a major shakedown was the 7.9-magnitude 1923 Great Kant Earthquake (p27). Thank-
fully, Tokyo today is not the city it was in 1923. Its architects have been leaders in designing
buildings to withstand earthquakes; some skyscrapers are on rollers or casters, others are
reinforced at intervals. Yet the prospect of another major quake remains a grim one, and the
devastation in Kbe served as a reminder that no amount of earthquake preparation is too
much. Meanwhile, more and more skyscrapers are going up in Tokyo due to relaxed building
codes.
The governments Meteorological Agency in 2007 launched a quake warning system that
broadcasts alarms 10 to 20 seconds before strong shocks are expected to hit an area based on
preliminary vertical tremors. So far, its prediction rate has had mixed success.
To learn about earthquake safety, visit the Ikebukuro Bsai-kan (p123).
GREEN TOKYO
Tokyo has an excellent recycling system duly enforced by garbage collection services. In apart-
ments, homes and businesses, all garbage must be separated into burnable, nonburnable and
recyclable bags. Garbage that is not appropriately bundled is simply not picked up.
Foreign visitors are often surprised at the lack of garbage bins in public places. Eating while
walking in Japan is almost never done, except at fairs or the occasional ice-cream cone. Oth-
erwise, the rule is to hold on to your rubbish (trash) until you get home. Under duress, train
stations and convenience stores usually have bins, typically separated into those for paper (some-
times newspapers and magazines), cans, bottles, and other rubbish, with handy pictures.
Overall awareness of environmental problems is mixed in resource-poor Japan. While some
Japanese manufacturers lead the pack when it comes to products that save energy (Toyotas Prius
was the first mass-produced gasoline-electric hybrid vehicle), others are ridiculously wasteful
when it comes to packaging its common to find, say, a bag of marshmallows or cookies with
each item sealed individually in plastic.
Meanwhile, climate change has forced large cities such as Tokyo to institute public campaigns
to lower surface temperatures through measures such as installing rooftop gardens. Laws passed
in 2002 require all new and reconstructed buildings to include a roof garden. The measures
were adopted to combat Tokyos infernal summer heat temperatures have risen 3C in the
last hundred years and also to beautify its concrete expanse.
Another strategy is keeping air-conditioner use to a minimum by dressing down in summer
the governments popular Cool Biz fashion campaign has seen stuffy bureaucrats, politicians
and businessmen renounce their suits and ties in the sweltering months for open-neck short-
sleeve shirts. The Warm Biz campaign encourages them to dress more warmly to save on
heating costs.
40
URBAN PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT
lonelyplanet.com
Tokyo has looser building restrictions than many giant cities, and this is evident in its chaotic,
ugly sprawl. Japan, where buildings are regarded as disposable commodities and usually junked
after 20 years, has long been criticised for its failure to protect historic structures from the
wrecking ball landowners have inordinate power to decide what kind of buildings will go up
on their property, often only a tiny slice of land.
Tokyos neglect to limit businesses to certain zones began after WWII, when reconstruction
was paramount. But in 2006 the Tokyo Metropolitan Government finally moved to protect the
skyline surrounding three early-20th-century buildings the Diet, the State Guest House and
the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery. It was probably too little too late, but the declining birth
rate means that more space will open up and the ordinance may serve as a precedent for better
planning and preservation.
Tokyo is also encouraging the renovation of decrepit office buildings and boosting train
services to reduce congestion. In 2008 it will launch yet another subway line, the Fukutoshin
Line running between Ikebukuro and Shibuya.
GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
Based in Shinjuku, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government is the bureaucracy running the met-
BACKGROUND GOVERNMENT & POLITICS
ropolis, which has the 127-member Metropolitan Assembly as its legislature and a governor.
However, Tokyos 23 inner wards, or ku, have autonomous local governments with their own
elected assemblies and mayors. Within Tokyo and surrounding the 23 wards are 26 cities, five
towns and eight villages, all of which have their own assemblies.
Local politics in Tokyo is very much overshadowed by national politics because the Japanese
parliament, the Diet, is located here too. Its divided into two houses: the lower, House of Rep-
resentatives, and the upper, House of Councillors. The party that controls the majority of seats
is the ruling party and has the right to appoint the prime minister, who appoints a cabinet.
In theory, the Diet is a multiparty governing body; in practice, it is controlled by the con-
servative Liberal Democratic Party (LDP), which since its formation in 1955 has held sway
with the exception of a few years in the mid-1990s. See p91 for information about tours of the
National Diet.
ECONOMY
Although it looked as if Japan was going to take over the world economically through the 1980s,
by the 1990s Japans economy was in a certifiable recession and remained so until very recently.
Unemployment hovered around 5% (high by national standards), homelessness rose (visible in
major encampments in districts such as Ueno and Shinjuku), corporations approached bank-
ruptcy and bank loans turned into bad debts. The result: deflation, increased public debt and
WHATS IN A KEIRETSU?
Businesspeople from abroad who come to work in Tokyo are often mystified by the structure of companies and
interpersonal relationships. Business, they quickly learn, is never just business, but depends on a complex set of social
relationships and corporate bonds that can never be accessed in a few meetings but must be built over years.
At the centre of this system, and of the economy, are keiretsu, alliances of businesses based on cross-shareholding
(aka business cartels). This configuration, with a bank at its core, links a number of companies together. Each keiretsu,
however, has only one enterprise in each industry, preventing competition within the group.
Although for years foreign companies, especially those from the USA, whinged about the exclusivity and seem-
ing impracticality of these tight-knit alliances, they have recently begun to adopt the model themselves. In Japan,
keiretsu are often viewed as safety zones for lifetime employment, with employees being shifted horizontally from one
enterprise to another as components of the group become less fiscally viable. But the bad loan crises of the 1990s hit
keiretsu banks hard, forcing some to merge with rivals. The conglomerates remain a force in Japanese business, but they
are weakening as the prospect of lifetime employment continues to evaporate and surviving globalised competition
becomes increasingly paramount.
41
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

growing concern over how to support a greying populace (Japan has one of the worlds oldest

lonelyplanet.com
populations, with life expectancies over 77 years for men and 85 for women). However, 2005
marked the beginning of a turnaround, which appears, finally, to have traction land values in
the city rose for the first time since 1991, and the Nikkei index is once again climbing high.
Some smart Tokyoites used the bubble to regenerate. People under 40 began to reject the
stability of lifetime employment in favour of more compelling, often more flexible, independ-
ent jobs. The emblem of this movement was Horie Takafumi, who in 1995 dropped out of
Tokyo University (Japans most prestigious) at the age of 23 to found a consulting company
that eventually morphed into Livedoor, one of Japans leading internet services and DVD-
rental empires. Hories showy personal trappings fast cars, T-shirts instead of suits, brash
corporate takeover bids and being a general media hound infuriated the old-line corporate
world. They also landed him in a book-cooking scandal that has periodically splashed across
the headlines in recent times.

MEDIA
Tokyo is Japans media capital. Terebi (TV)
networks based here include NHK (the na-
tional broadcaster), Fuji TV, Nippon TV, TBS
and TV Asahi; their headquarters are destina- NEWS SITES
BACKGROUND MEDIA

BACKGROUND
tions for Japanese visitors. Breakfast broad-
casts vary from sober reporting of world news Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp)
to chipper chatter about the latest pop-star Mainichi Daily News (http://mdn.mainichi.jp)
gossip. Daytime TV focuses on cooking and Nikkei Net (www.nni.nikkei.co.jp)
chat shows for housewives, and late-afternoon Kyodo News (http://home.kyodo.co.jp) Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
anime (p78) for kids. Infotainment, variety and Asahi Shimbun (www.asahi.com/english)
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
quiz shows are popular night-time fare.
Programming from overseas is typically dubbed, but many Japanese TVs have a bilingual only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
button for watching shows in their original language. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Japanese are voracious readers, and the countrys newspapers have the worlds highest cir- the above - Do the right thing with our content.
culation rate. Major shimbun (newspapers) include the liberal Asahi Shimbun, the conservative
financial daily Nihon Keizai Shimbun (aka Nikkei) and the more populist Mainichi Shimbun,
right-wing Sankei Shimbun and Yomiuri Shimbun, which boasts the worlds largest circulation.
Sports newspapers are targeted at male readers (often with racy photos to match), and the lurid
shkanshi (weekly tabloids) compete intensely for the most sensational stories youll see them
advertised on trains citywide. See p251 for English-language publications.
The quality of Japanese journalism depends heavily on the news provider. A typical govern-
ment corruption scandal might first surface as a scoop in a more aggressive weekly tabloid, be
picked up by TV variety shows, then appear in mainstream newspapers before finally making
headlines on conservative NHK. The public broadcasters coverage of politics ranges from timid
to reverential, mirroring that of putatively independent press agencies such as Kyodo News.
In all media, however, granting anonymity to sources is extraordinarily common; even
eyewitnesses to traffic accidents will have their faces blurred or voices distorted in a TV news
report. Though there is a high degree of press freedom in Japan, social mores and systems such as
exclusionary press clubs mean mainstream media are generally better at roles such as reporting
breaking news than investigative journalism and criticism. Freelance journalists and independent
media struggle against company-centred thinking but have small, dedicated readerships.
Despite their traditional love of newspapers and NHK, Japanese are increasingly relying on
the internet and mobile phones for news and other information. Japanese online forum 2chan-
nel (http://2ch.net) can log more than three million posts in a single day, covering everything
from political scandals to suicide notes and hate speeches, and is the largest site of its kind on
the net; its popularity is gaining on traditional media.

42 43
 Lonely Planet Publications

N E I G H BO U R H O O DS

Imperial Palace (p50) The Imperial Palace remains the

home of the Japanese imperial family.
Meiji-jing (p109) Easily the most beautiful and peaceful
spot in Tokyo.
Takeshita-dri (p109) The undisputed teen fashion
capital of Japan. Runs through the heart of Harajuku.
Shibuya Crossing (p105) One of the largest intersections
in the world, Shibuya Crossing overwhelms.
Sens-ji (p85) The most sacred spot in Tokyo.
Roppongi Hills (p94) This complex presents the new
face of stylistic Tokyo.
Akihabara Electric Town (p67) An entire neighbour-
hood dedicated to geek culture.
Tsukiji Central Fish Market (p64) The worlds largest
fish market is simply not to be missed.
La Qua Spa (p58) The perfect place to heal your body
and recover from jet lag.
Ameyoko (p70) Catch a glimpse of the old Shitamachi
at this bustling shopping street full of open-air markets.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

 N E I G H BO U R H O O DS

Tokyo
2 km

Bay
1 mile
The target of relentless Allied fire bombing dur-
ing WWII, old Edo burnt to the ground in a
even Tokyoites joke
fiery maelstrom. However, as Japan transformed
itself into one of the worlds largest and most
among themselves that
dynamic economies, the modern city of Tokyo
quickly rose from the ashes. Today the greater
getting lost in their
Tokyo area numbers upwards of 35 million peo- own city is a matter of

0
0
ple, and is regarded by demographers as the
largest metropolitan area in the world. course.
Lacking the geometric precision of gridded
cities common to Europe and North America, the urban complexity of Tokyo can be absolutely
mindblowing to the uninitiated. In fact, even Tokyoites joke among themselves that getting lost

Sumida-
ku
in their own city is a matter of course. However, the key to breaking down Tokyo into manage-
able pieces is to simply view the capital as an amalgamation of minicities.
Despite its fairly repetitious faade of stale concrete, blazing neon and jumbled electrical

Imado

komagata
wires, Tokyo is actually made up of distinct neighbourhoods, each of which is distinguished

Higashi-

Shin-hashi

Fukugawa
by its own unique character and flair. Like Edo before it, Tokyo has long thought of itself in

Hanakawado

Minato-ku
Shin-hashi
Asakusa
terms of the high city and the low city. The high city or Yamanote, home of the shgun (and the

Higashi- Nishi- Kaminarimon

SUMIDA
nobles and samurai who served him), was a rarefied place, while the low city, or Shitamachi,

(p125)
RIVER
Kotobuki
ASAKUSA
Tait-
was reserved for the commoners.

ku

Ariake
Asakusabashi Kotobuki
(p85)
If you look at a JR (Japan Rails) transit map today, youll notice a green ring around the city
NEIGHBOURHOODS

ODAIBA
Ueno Asakusa

(p130)
centre. This is the JR Yamanote Line, which loops around the heart of the city, connecting east

Kodemmach
Negishi
and west, old and new. Transit, among a slew of other political, cultural and economic factors,

Ueno
Kita-
Arakawa-ku
has eliminated the distinctions between the high city and the low city. However, the unique

Tait

Nihombashi
Ueno

Kt-ku

Aomi
heritage and idiosyncrasies of Tokyos mini-cities are still very much alive, and a quick stroll

Hatchbori
Iwamotoch
through each of the neighbourhoods is still the best way to get acquainted with the many faces

Tsukiji
Kybashi
UENO
(p70)

Nishikich
of the capital.

Yaesu
Kanda-
AKIHABARA &
KANDA (p67)

Tokyo
IMPERIAL PALACE
Yanaka

Bay
Yushima

Marunouchi
We begin at the centre of it all, the Imperial Palace, which is the geographical and spiritual

& MARUNOUCHI

SHIODOME
TSUKIJI &
Hong
heart of both Tokyo and Japan. Next we head east towards Ginza and the Sumida-gawa (Sumida

(p64)
GINZA
temachi

(p61)
Ginza

Shiodome
(p50)
Sarugakuch
River), which marks the eastern boundaries of Yamanote, and retains its high-stepping airs as

Bunky-

Jimboch
the most prestigious shopping district in the country.

ku

Toranomon Uchisaiwaich

Shimbashi
Continuing north through the electronics district and geek capital of Akihabara, we arrive

Daimon
Chiyoda-

Shiba
at the venerable cultural centres of Ueno and Asakusa, which form the living, breathing heart

ku

Kasumigaseki
of the historic Shitamachi. Crossing the river brings us to Rygoku, seat of sum culture, and

Minato-ku
the southeasterly manmade island of Odaiba, which has no intention whatsoever of taking

CENTRAL
TOKYO

Roppongi
(p55)

Higashi
Azabu
Nagatach
you back to old Edo.

Hills
Hirakawach

ROPPONGI
Azabudai
Southwest of the Imperial Palace is the government district of Akasaka and the pleasure

AKASAKA

Akasaka

(p94)
Kioi-ch
district turned design centre of Roppongi. In the southwesterly corner are the fashionable

(p91)
residential areas of Ebisu and Meguro, though class gives way to youth in the adjacent fashion

Roppongi

Shinagawa-ku
hubs of Harajuku and Shibuya. Continuing north, we finish our tour at the high-rise-meets-

Moto-
Azabu
low-rise cacophony of Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, two of the citys most important financial and
commercial districts.

Azabu
Nishi-
Shinjuku-ku
Indeed, the appeal of Tokyo lies in its multitude of layers, all of which must be peeled back

Minami-
Shinjukunichme

Aoyama
in order to fully delve into the core of the city. Of course, penetrating the heart of the worlds

Hir
Ikebukuro

Kami-
saki
Minami-

DAIKANYAMA
largest metropolitan area is no easy task, though few urban destinations can offer as much

Ebisu
& MEGURO
IKEBUKURO

variety as Tokyo. From the highfalutin boutiques of Ginza and the trendy street fashions of

(p100)
EBISU,
Aoyama

Mita
& AOYAMA
HARAJUKU
(p121)

Kita-

Maruyamach Sakuragaokach
Ikebukuro

Meguro
Sendagaya
Waseda

Daikanyama

Shimo-
Jingmae
Harajuku, to the cheery fishmongers of Ueno and the chanting monks of Asakusa, Tokyo will
Nishi-

(p109)

Meguro
Harajuku

Naka-
Takadanobaba

Shibuya
Shinjuku
lay siege to your senses from the moment you set foot on her streets.

(p105) Kamiyamach
Kabukich

Meguro
Mejiro

SHINJUKU

Meguro-ku
Ikebukuro

(p114)
Nishi-

Dgenzaka
Yoyogi

Udagawach
Shinjuku

Jinnan
Kita-

SHIBUYA
Toshima-

Shibuya-
ku

ku
44
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
ITINERARY BUILDER
Planning an itinerary through the worlds largest megalopolis is no small task, especially
HOW TO USE THIS TABLE
The table below allows you to plan a days worth of activities in any area of the city.
as Tokyo can take several lifetimes to fully explore. Each of Tokyos neighbourhoods is Simply select which area you wish to explore, and then mix and match from the corres-
best thought of as a city unto itself, adding layers of complexity to a capital defined by both ponding listings to build your day. The first item in each cell represents a well-known
tradition and modernity. However, most of its top sights can be checked off in a few days, highlight of the area, while the other items are more off-the-beaten-track gems.
though you should slow down and save enough time to savour a fine Japanese meal or take
in one of the capitals numerous cultural attractions. Indeed, the beauty of Japan is often
revealed in the subtle nuances that lie behind the dense crowds and blazing neon.

ACTIVITIES Sights Museums Eating Shopping Entertainment

AREA

Central Tokyo Imperial Palace (p50) Bridgestone Museum of Art (p52) Tsukiji Central Fish Market (p64) Akihabara Electric Town (p67) Kabuki-za (p176)
Yasukuni-jinja (p55) Idemitsu Museum of Arts (p53) Peter (p156) Sony Building (p61) Tokyo Dome (p58)
Kagurazaka (p60) JCII Camera Museum (p58) Kybei (p158) Tsukiji Outer Market (p65) La Qua Spa (p58)

Shibuya & Meiji-jing (p109) Tobacco & Salt Museum (p106) Coucagno (p167) Omote-sand Boulevard (p142) Bunkamura (p107)
Harajuku Hachik Statue (p105) Tepco Electric Energy Museum (p107) Nobu (p168) Takeshita-dri (p144) Cerulean Tower N Theatre (p176)
Love Hotel Hill (p105) Toguri Museum of Art (p108) Fonda De La Madrugada (p168) Mandarake (p143) Kanze N-gakud (p176)
NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER

NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER

Asakusa & Sens-ji (p85) Shitamachi Museum (p75) Asakusa Imahan (p162) Kappabashi-dri (p138) Sumida-gawa (River) Cruise (p87)
Ueno Asakusa-jinja (p86) Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan (National Komagata Doj (p162) Edo Shitamachi Dent Kgeikan Ueno Ken (Ueno Park; p70)
Chingod-ji (p87) Science Museum; p74) Daikokuya (p163) (Traditional Crafts Museum; p89) Ueno Dbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo; p73)
Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum Museum; p89) Ameyoko (p70)

Shinjuku & Shinjuku-gyen (p119) Japanese Sword Museum (p116) Isetan & Seibu (p171) Japan Traditional Craft Center New York Grill and Bar (p181)
Ikebukuro Metropolitan Government Offices (p116) Sompo Japan Museum of Art (p117) Daidaya (p170) (p123) Kabukich (p119)
Hanazono-jinja (p119) Ikebukuro Bsai-kan (Ikebukuro Park Hyatt Delicatessen (p170) Kinokuniya Bookshop (p119 & p143) Golden Gai (p119)
Earthquake Hall; p123) Sunshine City (p121)

Roppongi & Tokyo Tower (p95) Mori Art Museum (p95) Vinoteca (p164) Roppongi Hills (p94) Blue Note Tokyo (p189)
Akasaka National Diet Building (p91) Suntory Museum of Art (p95) China Room (p164) Axis (p99) Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka (p184)
Zj-ji (p98) National Art Center, Tokyo (p99) Fukuzushi (p164) Complex (p99) Heartland (p182)

Odaiba Fuji TV Studio (p132) Miraikan (p130) shima Endomae-dokoro (p173) Venus Fort (p147) -edo Onsen Monogatari (p130)
Toyota Mega Web (p132) Fune no Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Tsukiji Tama Sushi (p173) Decks Tokyo Beach (p147)
Science; p131)

Ebisu & Daien-ji (p100) Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103) Mushroom (p165) Yebisu Garden Place (p141) Yebisu Garden Cinema (p188)
Daikanyama Shizen Kyiku-en (Institute for Nature Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo (p103) Toki no Ma (p166) Daikanyama Address (p141) Beer Museum Yebisu (p100)
Study; p101) Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Ricos Kitchen (p165)
Meguro gajoen (Meguro Wedding Hall; p104) Photography (p103)

46 47
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 2 km
GREATER TOKYO 0 1 mile
Tabata
Senkawa Sh Kshin- To Tokyo Tomin
uto Zuka Rikugi- Golf Course (2km)
To East West Japanese E Keisei-
Language Institute (1.5km); en Tateishi

xp
Kyumeikan (8km) 14 Komagome Kita-ku

w
Kangafuchi
MAP INDEX

yN
Ikebukuro Arakawa-ku

o5
Sugamo 1 Imperial Palace & Marunouchi pp523
Kanamech
Ikebukuro tsuka 6 Minamisenju Yotsugi 2 Central Tokyo p56
17
3 Ginza p62

Sh
Mukhara Minowa 16 18

ut
Toshima-ku Sengoku 14 4 Tsukiji & Shiodome p65

o
Nippori Yahiro

Ex
ri
To International Bunky-ku 19 Higashi-

pw
Shin- 5 Akihabara & Kanda p68

Ha k u

a-d
M eiji-
Yoga Center (3km) Yanaka 22 20 Mukjima

y
tsuka

Chu
Cemetery 6 Ueno p72

No 6
sa

Sh
dri

oL
7 Asakusa p86

n-
Mejiro 4

d
Koishikawa

oo
p wy
3 Me Kishimonjinmae 8 Akasaka p92

ri
jiro Botanical Tait-ku

p
-d Gokokuji 7

L in
Garden

o Ex
ri Todai- Asakusa
9 Roppongi pp967
Gakushi-

e
Shin-Mejiro Mygadani mae Sumida-
-dri In-Shita 10 Ebisu, Daikanyama & Meguro p102

ut
Koto Keisei-Hikifune

dri

Sh
Ochiai Nezu Ueno- Ueno toi-d ken
Takadanobaba Omokagebashi ri 11 Shibuya p106
Central ken Asakusa- Hikifune

K o k u s a i-
Shinobaz u
Hong-
Ken 11 ken 12 Harajuku & Aoyama p110
Waseda Sumida-ku 13

)
15 Asakusa Shinjuku p116

wa
13 University Edogawabashi

dri
Ueno

ga
Takadanobaba d ri Oshiage 14 Ikebukuro p122
Kasuga Omurai

a-
Koishikawa Kasuga- 15 Sumida River p126

mid
Toyamaken 10
i

Waseda dri
Meiji-dr

To Mandarake Nakano Krakuen 16 Odaiba p131

(Su
Superstore (3 km);
Tokyo Keibajo(13km)
Shin- 2 5 Suehiroch Tait Hirai

r
kubo Kagurazaka Kuramaebashidr

Rive
kubo-dri Ushigome- i
kubo yanagich Asakusabashi
Ushigome- Ochanomizu Akihabara 15
5

da
kagurazaka
13 Kameido INFORMATION

mi
Wakamatsukawada
me Seibu 12 Jimbch Kinshich

Su
-ka Shinjuku Kudanshita Rygoku Immigration Information Centre
id
Shinjuku-ku  ....................................1 C6
Yasukuni-d
ri Akebonobashi
1 Kanda
Bakuroyokoyama
Keiydri
Japan Travel Bureau (JTB)
7
Budkan Shuto Expwy No
Ken-d

 ....................................2 C6

Ch
Ichigaya Higashi-nihombashi Seibo International Catholic Hospital
Shinjuku Yotsuyasanchme Sumiyoshi

-d
Hamach Ojima ............................................................3 A2
ri

aid Shinjuku Nishi-
NEIGHBOURHOODS GREATER TOKYO

NEIGHBOURHOODS GREATER TOKYO

-K Kikukawa

ri
Kjimachi Hanzmon Morishital Ojika
sh Shinjuku- Ningych
K Minami- SIGHTS (p124)
Shinjuku Yoyogi gyoen 8 Yotsuya Shinjuku-dri
Kiyosumi Gokoku-ji .................................................4 B2
Shu

Imperial
12 Palace shirakawa
t

Tokyo
o

Sendagaya Ex
Chiyoda-ku SHOPPING (pp13548)
Gaie

Shinanomachi Nagatach Metropolitan

pw

Kayabach
y Kiba Bingoya ....................................................5 B3
n-hi

Meiji- ri 3 Park
Meiji- -d
g

ken
as h

ama EATING (pp14974)

dr

jing- d Aoy
i-

ori-

gyoen Akasaka Hatchbori Les Deux Bleue ................. 6 E5

ri

ib
ri

Uch

Harajuku Gaienmae Ginza Monzen-nakach Sakana-ya Ajisen .............................7 E4

Shintomich
a-d

TY Harbor Brewery
d

Uchisaiwaich
ura

Yoyogi- Akasaka Sot  .........8 C6

obo
ken ri-d
Sak

Aoyama Nogizaka ri Etchujima Kiba

To Suzunari Rei-en Tsukiji ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)
ri

Ha

Theatre (2 km) (Aoyama Roppongi-

d

Roppongi Tsukiji
ru

Cemetery) itchme Tsukishima Ageha ........................................................9 F5

a-

7
m

Shibuya Shiodome
am

i-d
ori

Shibuya- Ao
y Kamiyach Die Pratze .............................10 C2
r
a-d

ku
i

Roppongi Onarimon Hot House ............................11 A2

Hibiy

ri
Shibuya Roppongi-d
Kachidoki
Takeshiba
Minato-ku SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191-200)
Shiba-
Azabu- ken 6 International Aikid Federation
Shuto Hammamatsuch
Ka
jban Toyosu ..........................................12 B3
11 Expw
M

Hiro-o y ch
eiji- d

Lo o id
p Line ok
Takadanobaba Citizen Ice Skate Rink
4 i-b To Narita 

Hinode as
ri

Daikanyama
Shibu Minato-ku hi Shijn- Airport ...............................................................13 A2
ya-ga Toyosu (51km)
Ebisu Ebisu wa
Shin-kiba
Naka- Mita Tamachi SLEEPING (pp20116)
Shijo-mae
meguro 9 Shibaura Tatsumi
Andon Ryokan ..............................14 E1
Shirokanetakanawa Fut Four Seasons Chinzan-s
Kt-ku
Ya

Tokyo 9
 .............. 15 B2
ma

Bay
Shinonome
te-

Shizen Hotel Accela ....................16 E1

d

Kyiku- 16 Hotel Bellclassic

ri

en ine
Shirokanedai
Meguro-ku a nL ......................... 17 B1
Za
k ga
Go n an Ariake
n s u ke Sengakuji W Hotel New Azuma
Meguro Meguro o wy
Takanawadai Daiba- E xp Kokusai Tenjij ................................18 E1
ken uto Hotel New Ky .......19 E1
10 Shinagawa-ku Sh
Shinagawa Juyoh Hotel ................................20 E1
Ch-

Kokusai-
Gotanda tenjij Seimon Ryokan Sansuis ..................... 21 B6
Daiba Tokyo Backpackers
dri

21 1 Tokyo
Teleport Aomi Jugochi ..........................22 E1
2
Wharf
8 West
Jugochi
Tennzu-Isle To Haneda Wharf
Airport Shiokaze- West East
Osaki ken
(10km) Promenade

48 49
lonelyplanet.com

time Commodore Perry and the black ships

lonelyplanet.com
seums as well as the Nihon Budkan (%3216-
I M PE R IAL PAL AC E & M AR U N O UCH I brought about the end of shgunal rule in 5123; 2-3 Kitanomaru-ken). Westerners know
1868, large sections of the old castle had the 14,000-plus-seat Budkan as Tokyos
Eating p156; Shopping p136; Sleeping p204 already been destroyed. In the years to legendary concert hall for big acts from the
The geographical and spiritual heart of Tokyo and Japan is the Imperial Palace (below), which follow, the Emperor Meiji took up power in Beatles to Beck, but it was originally built
has been the centre of national affairs since the year 1600. Under the watch of shgun Toku- Edo, and much of the remaining castle was as the site of martial arts championships
gawa Ieyasu and his descendants, the city of Edo expanded at a breakneck pace, on its way to torn down to make way for the new Impe- (jud, karate, kend, aikid) for the 1964
becoming a military stronghold and one of the worlds largest cities. Edo Castle (Edo-j), which rial Palace.
grew to include the thick stone walls and expansive moat that remain today, became the focus Olympics (bud means martial arts). These
The palace itself is closed to the public arts are still practised and exhibited here
of the shguns power. for all but two days a year: 2 January (New
Although few other vestiges of the castle survived Allied bombing, its imposing grounds still today for more information, see p192.
Years holiday) and 23 December (the Located in a position southeast of the
house the reconstructed Imperial Palace. However, in truth most of the areas power-brokering Emperors birthday). But it is possible to
takes place a short walk away in adjacent Marunouchi. Here, government ministries, national Budkan is Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum;
wander around its outskirts and to visit
financial institutions and corporate headquarters attend to the daily ebb and flow of the worlds the gardens, from where you can catch %3212-2440; www.jsf.or.jp/eng; 2-1 Kitanomaru-
second-largest economy. ken, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child 600/250, student 400;
a glimpse of the palaces most famous
The historic Yamanote has greatly expanded beyond this tract of land, though the Imperial landmark, the double-barrelled bridge, h9am-4.50pm), which features a good
Palace and Marunouchi recall the era when the high town was the command post of a nation. selection of exhibits aimed primarily at
Nij-bashi.
The monolithic ministry and insurance industry buildings fronting the palace survived WWII, children and teenagers. There is little in
and still carry out their original functions. At nearby Tokyo Station, legions of salarymen (office the way of English explanations, but there
HIGASHI-GYEN (IMPERIAL PALACE is an excellent bilingual guidebook (200)
workers) pass through the turnstiles, each devoting their time and energy to keeping Japans
EAST GARDEN) Map pp523 available. Even without a guidebook or an
financial gears churning.
Northeast of the Imperial Palace lies the remnants of Edos rough-and-tumble low city, namely understanding of Japanese, you can still
the historic Shitamachi and the modern district of Ueno. The electronics district of Akihabara %3213-2050; admission free; h9am-4.30pm stand inside a soap bubble, and visit the
is to the east, and the glitzy Ginza and the fish market at Tsukiji are to the south. The bustling Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, closed for imperial methane boy (he emits exactly what you
government and business district of Akasaka is to the southwest, while the districts collectively functions & from 4pm Nov-Feb; bMarunouchi, think he emits).
known as Central Tokyo lie to the north and northwest. Tozai, Chiyoda or Hanzmon Line to temachi (exits
In the south of the park, facing the Impe-
Once youve arrived at Tokyo Station, the western exit will take you out towards the c13b or c8b)
rial Palace East Garden, is the contemporary
NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

Imperial Palace. It is an easy, accessible five-minute walk through Marunouchis rows of
banks and blue suits and onward to one of the most open spaces in the city, within which
lives the most cloistered family in Japan. The eastern exit takes you to Yaesu and more of
the financial district.
KYKYO (IMPERIAL PALACE)
Map pp523
Tokugawa Ieyasu chose the grounds as the
The Imperial Palace is the permanent
residence of Japans emperor and imperial
family. Given the recent birth of future em-
peror Prince Hisahito, the frequent nervous
breakdowns of Princess Masako and the
debate regarding Princess Aikos right of
ascension, new stories surrounding the im-
perial family are splashed across the Japa-
nese tabloids on a daily basis. Of course,
unlike their royal counterparts in the UK,
life in the Imperial Palace is rigidly control-
led by a secretive organisation known as
the Imperial Household Agency, which keeps any
potential scandals under wraps.
Completed in 1968, the palace itself is a
somewhat staid, contemporary reconstruc-
tion of the Meiji Imperial Palace, which was
targeted by aerial bombers during WWII.
However, on these grounds once stood
Edo Castle, which in its time was the larg-
est castle in the world. The first Edo Castle
was home to a prominent feudal lord,
though the grounds were abandoned fol-
lowing his assassination in 1486. In 1590,
site for an unassailable castle from which
the shgun was to rule all Japan until the
Meiji Restoration.
Edo Castle was fortified by a complex
system of stone walls, moats, watch towers
and armouries. However, this didnt stop
the commoners from rising up, and by the
TRANSPORT: IMPERIAL PALACE
& MARUNOUCHI
Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at brick-fronted
Tokyo Station, which borders the Imperial Palace to
the west. Yrakuch Station, one stop south, may
be more convenient to some destinations.
Metro The Marunouchi Line runs along the east
side of the Imperial Palace and connects with Tokyo
Station. The Toei Mita, Chiyoda and Hanzmon Lines
also have stops near Tokyo Station and around the
Imperial Palace.
Higashi-gyen is the only corner of the Im-
perial Palace proper that is regularly open
to the public, and it makes for a pleasant
retreat from the grinding hustle and bustle
of Tokyo. Here you can get up-close-and-
personal views of the massive stones used
to build the castle walls, and even climb
the ruins of one of the keeps, off the upper
lawn. Although entry is free, the number
of visitors at any one time is limited, so it
never feels crowded.
Entry here is through one of three
gates: te-mon on the east side and Hirakawa-
mon and Kitahanebashi-mon on the north side.
Most people enter through te-mon,
which is situated closest to Tokyo Station,
and was the principal entrance to Edo
Castle for more than 200 years. Here you
may want to make a stop at the Museum
of Imperial Collections, which mounts small
exhibits of the 5000-plus artworks held
within the palace.
KITANOMARU-KEN (KITANOMARU
PARK) Map pp523
guards, and was rebuilt after destruction
bHanzmon Line or Shinjuku or Tzai Line to Ku-
danshita (exit 2), or Tzai Line to Takebashi (exit 1a)
This large park north of the Imperial Palace
grounds is home to a few noteworthy mu-
art museum Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National
Museum of Modern Art, MOMAT; %5777-8600; www
.momat.go.jp/english; 3-2 Kitanomaru-ken, Chiyoda-ku;
adult/senior & child/student 420/free/130; h10am-
5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, 10am-8pm Fri). All pieces
date from the Meiji period onwards and
impart a sense of a more modern Japan
through portraits, photography and grim
wartime landscapes. Its collection of over
9000 works is arguably the best in the
country.
Situated conveniently nearby, MOMAT
also operates the Bijutsukan Kgeikan (Crafts
Gallery; 1 Kitanomaru-ken, Chiyoda-ku; adult/senior &
under 15/student 200/100/70; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun),
which is an excellent museum to visit.
It stages changing exhibitions of mingei
crafts: ceramics, lacquerware, bamboo,
textiles, dolls and much more. Artists
range from living national treasures to
contemporary artisans. Its red-brick build-
ing is an important cultural property in
its own right it dates from 1910, when
it was the headquarters of the imperial
in WWII.
The gate at the northern end, Tayasu-
mon, dates from 1636, making it the oldest
remaining gate in the park.

50 51
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI 0 0.3 miles IMPERIAL PALACE &
Awajich
21 35
Suzuran-dri MARUNOUCHI
Yasukuni-dri Ogawamachi
4
Kanda
INFORMATION
Iwamotoch
American Pharmacy .....(see 29)
19 See Akihabara
See Central Kiy Jimbch Kanda- & Kanda Babasakimon Police Box ......................... 1 C4
Tokyo Map om Nishikich Map p68
p56 Kitanomaru- izu Kanda-
Keisatsu Bank of Japan .........................................................2 E2
ken -dri
Kodemmach Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi ........................3 E2

M oa
(Kitanomaru
Park) Jimbch Post Office ............................... 4 C1
ri

13

t
JR Kanda
ma-d

Post Office ....................................................................5 E3

tsu

Sh
u Tokyo Central Post Office
15 to Uchi-
Exp ...................................................................6 D4
Takebashi wy Kanda Kodemmach

Shu
Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau (TCVB)

Ch
No
10 Nihom

to
..............................................................(see 34)

-d
bashi
14 -gaw

Expw
oat a Tokyo International Post Office ........7 E2
Hanz M See Sumida

ri
Area not temachi River Map
open to

y No
Shin-nihombashi p126
public
SIGHTS (pp504)

1
7 Bridgestone Museum of Art .....8 E4
9 Ch-ku Higashi-gyen (Imperial Palace East Garden)
temachi Nihombashi
temachi 2
17 ...................................................................................... 9 C2
24
Chiyoda-ku Eitai-
Hirakawa-mon .........................................................10 C2
Fukiage dri
Imperial temachi 3 Mitsukoshimae Idemitsu Museum of Arts ...........................11 C4
Gardens
Shimo- 26 Imperial Household Agency ..............................12 B3
dkan 33
Moat Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum) ...13 B1
Kitahanebashi-mon ...........................................14 B2
U c h i b o r i- d

12 18
Wadakura 32 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of
Square
Shin- Marunouchi Modern Art) ........................................15 B1
16 Marunouchi Central 23
Nihombashi Kykyo (Imperial Palace) ...........................................16 B3
Sak

Building
ri

Exit
National 5 Museum of Imperial Collections .........17 C2
ura

Theatre
(Kokuritsu Tokyo 36 Nihombashi ............................................................................. 18 F3

ri
da-

Imperial

-d
Moat
Gekij) Palace Sa25
bor

Yaesu Nihon Budkan ..............................................19 B1

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

or i
Kami- Outer 30 ku
Central ra- 27

ob
dkan TOKYO
i

Supreme M Garden Exit Yaesu d

Nij-bashi ..................................................................20 B3
saki
ri

Sot
Court oa Moat 20 Imperial 28
t Palace
Tayasu-mon ..............................................................21 B1
Baba

Plaza Yae Nihombashi

6 s u-d
ri Tokyo International Forum .... 22 D4
ri
a-do

Kokuritsu Kybashi Tokyo Stock Exchange ....................... 23 F3

1
Geikij
Hibiy

te-mon ................................................................... 24 D2
Sakuradamon 8
Kokkaimae
SHOPPING (pp13548)

ri
Garden

-d
(Western Style)
Marunouchi 22 Maruzen ......................................................................... 25 E3

i
has
Kokkai-gijidmae Nijbashimae 11 Kybashi
Mitsukoshi ...................................................................... 26 E3

n-
Kokkaimae JR Yrakuch
ri

Takashimaya ............................................................. 27 E3
-d

Shi
National Garden See Akasaka 31 Takarach
Diet Map p92 Yrakuch Ginza
ori

(Japanese Hibiya-ken S Ch-ku

Building Yrakuch aku
hib

Style) (Hibiya Park) See Ginza ra

34 Map p62 -dri EATING (pp14974)
Uc

Hibiya 30
Hump .....................................................................28 D3
Kua 'Aina .............................................................29 D3
TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FORUM The glass eastern wing looks like a shimaya exit), Ginza Line to Kybashi (Meidi-ya Peter .............................................................................30 C4
Map pp523 fantastic ship plying the urban waters, exit) or JR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo
while the west wing is a cavernous space (Yaesu Central exit) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
of vaulted steel and glass. At night, the Tokyo has a love affair with all things All Japan Kend Federation ..........(see 19)
%5221-9000; 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; glass hall is lit up by hundreds of precisely Imperial Palace Cycling Course Bike Pick-up................31 C4
French, so it shouldnt come as too much
admission free; bJR Yamanote Line to Yrakuch,
placed beams, and takes on the appear- of a surprise that French impressionist art SLEEPING (pp20116)
or Yrakuch Line to Yrakuch (exit a4b) ance of a space colony. Although its looms large in the civic imagination. The Marunouchi Hotel ................................... 32 D3
Located between Tokyo and Yrakuch used principally for its meeting halls and Bridgestone Tyre Companys collection, Palace Hotel .............................................. 33 D3
Stations, the Forum is truly one of Tokyos convention venues, for the casual visitor which was previously kept as a private Peninsula Hotel ......................34 C4
architectural marvels. Architect Rafael there are restaurants, cafs and shops collection by Bridgestone founder Ishi- Sakura Hotel ...............................................35 C1
Violy won Japans first international throughout. bashi Shojiro, is one of the best French Yaesu Terminal Hotel ...... 36 E3
architecture competition with his design impressionist collections you will find
that matches a building with this sort-of- in all of Asia. Though French painting is
trapezoidal lot, hemmed in by train tracks
BRIDGESTONE MUSEUM OF ART IDEMITSU MUSEUM OF ARTS
Map pp523 undoubtedly the main attraction (think Map pp523
on the east side. Completed in 1996, the Renoir, Ingres, Corot, Matisse et al), the
Forum sits on land that had previously
%3563-0241; www.bridgestone-museum.gr museum also exhibits sculpture and some
been the site of the Tokyo Metropolitan %3213-9402; www.idemitsu.co.jp/museum, in
.jp/en/; adult/under 15/student/senior 800/ works by Japanese impressionists as well
Government Offices, which moved to their Japanese; 9th fl, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku;
free/500/600; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm as European pieces that employ abstract
present location in Shinjuku (p116). adult/student 800/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Thu,
Sun; bGinza or Tozai Line to Nihombashi (Taka- or neoclassical aesthetics.
52 53
lonelyplanet.com

CHME THE WAY TO GO HOME
In Tokyo, finding a place from its address can be difficult, even for locals. The problem is twofold: first, addresses are
given within a district rather than along a street (only major streets have names or numbers); and second, building
numbers are not necessarily consecutive, as prior to the mid-1950s numbers were assigned by date of construction.
During the US occupation after WWII, an attempt was made to impose some logic upon the system, and main streets
were assigned names, though the city reverted to its own system after the Americans left.
Tokyo, like most Japanese cities, is divided first into ku (wards Tokyo has 23 of them), which in turn are divided
into ch or machi (towns) and then into numbered chme (cho-may), areas of just a few blocks. Subsequent numbers
in an address refer to blocks within the chme and buildings within each block. In English, addresses are most often
written, for example, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo: the 3 refers to the chme; the 5 narrows down the
field to a single block within the chme; and the 1 indicates a specific building, all within the Marunouchi district of
Chiyoda ward. A number followed by an F in an address indicates the floor within the building. Note that when written
in Japanese the order is reversed (Tokyo, Chiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 3-5-1). Of course!
Generally you have to ask for directions. Numerous kban (local police boxes) are there largely for this purpose.
Businesses often include a small map on their advertisements or business cards, or most are happy to email you a map.
It was not too long ago that you needed this map to show to a taxi driver, but nowadays if you have the address they
can generally get you there by means of a navigation system. If youre arriving by train or subway, be sure to also get
the closest exit number from the station. Weve provided transit information throughout this guidebook, including exit
numbers where useful.
Otherwise, you can pick up a bilingual road atlas (Kodansha publishes the excellent Tokyo City Atlas) or buy a map that
shows every building in every chme. More and more there are also directional signs in English to important locations.
see a replica of the original wooden bridge,
Sat & Sun, 10am-7pm Fri; bJR Yamanote Line to
Yrakuch, or subway Chiyoda or Toei Mita Line to visit the Edo-Tokyo Museum (p125).
NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI
lonelyplanet.com
CE NTR AL TO K YO
Eating p157; Shopping p138; Sleeping p205
More a collection of contiguous neighbourhoods than one unified district, the area north and
west of the Imperial Palace spans the spectrum from historic gardens and samurai quarters
to baseball stadiums, amusement parks and war memorials. Commonly referred to as Central
Tokyo, the bulk of historic Yamanote is somewhat lacking in terms of an identifiable character,
though its continued wealth and status is evident in the soaring steel and glass skyscrapers that
line the streets. However, Central Tokyo does have a number of noteworthy sights, which are
definitely worth seeking out amid the urban sprawl.
Closest to the Imperial Palace is the infamous Yasukuni-jinja (below), a controversial shrine
to Japans war dead that is plastered across the international headlines every time a Japanese
politician stops by to pay their respects. Although a quick pass through the onsite WWII his-
tory museum is somewhat sobering to say the least, it does feature high on the itineraries of
politically savvy foreign travellers.
Northwest of the palace is Krakuen, which originally housed the pleasure gardens of the
Yamanote nobility. Today, it continues to be a place of amusement, especially since the neigh-
bourhood is home to the Tokyo Dome (p58), the fabled home of the Yomiuri Giants, the Japanese
equivalent of the New York Yankees. Also in the shadow of the dome is Koishikawa Krakuen
(p58), a traditional Japanese garden that is no longer reserved for the highest of classes.
West of the palace is Kagurazaka, which offers up quaint old-Edo streetscapes and hide-and-seek
alleys, which would provide the perfect setting for a romantic tryst or a shady backroom deal.
Central Tokyo is roughly bordered by the grounds of the Imperial Palace to the east, the
government and business district of Akasaka to the south and greater Shinjuku and Ikebukuro
to the west and northwest.

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

Hibiya (exit A1 or B3)
This excellent collection of Japanese art,
sprinkled liberally with Chinese and Korean
pottery and a few stray Western pieces, is
the result of the lifetime passion of petro-
leum magnate Idemitsu Sazo. As there is no
permanent display, exhibits change every
few months, highlighting the complete
depth of Idemitsus collection. The museum
also provides broad views across to the
grounds of the Imperial Palace.
NIHOMBASHI Map pp523
mark Nikkei (an index of 225 companies
bGinza Line to Mistukoshimae (exits B5 or B6) or
Nihombashi (exits B11 or B12)
Even with the bronze lions guarding it, you
could be forgiven for walking right past this
granite bridge under an expressway, where
Ch-dri meets Nihombashi-gawa. Still, it
bears mention for its historic significance.
Nihombashi (Japan bridge) was the point
from which all distances were measured
during the Edo period, the beginning of the
great trunk roads (the Tkaid, the Nikk
Kaid etc) that took daimy (feudal lords)
between Edo and their home provinces. To
TOKYO STOCK EXCHANGE Map pp523
%3665-1881; www.tse.or.jp; 2-1 Nihombashi
Kabutocho, Ch-ku; admission free; h9am-4pm
Mon-Fri with the exception of holidays; bTzai
Line to Kayabacho (exit 11) or Toei Asakusa Line to
Nihombashi (exit D2)
The Tokyo Stock Exchange (TSE) has been
operating since 1878, and today it is the
worlds second-largest capital market after
the New York Stock Exchange. The two
main indices of the TSE are the bench-
selected by the Nihon Keizai Shimbun,
Japans leading economic daily) and the
broader TOPIX index, which covers all
1600 companies on the TSEs prestigious
1st Section.
Though the Tokyo Stock Exchange no
longer echoes with the flurry of unbridled
activity (the trading floor closed in the
spring of 1999, and now all trading is by
computer), its still worth a visit. You can
walk through the visitors galleries, or in-
quire about the 40-minute guided English-
language tour (with video presentation).
YASUKUNI-JINJA (YASUKUNI
SHRINE) Map p56
the Asian countries that suffered under the
%3261-8326, Yshkan 3261-0998; www
.yasukuni.or.jp; 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku; shrine
admission free, Yshkan admission adult 800,
student 300-500; h9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 9am-
5pm Nov-Feb; bTzai, Hanzmon or Toei Shinjuku
Line to Kudanshita (exit 1)
If youve kept up with international head-
lines, you might recall several news stories
about China, Korea and other Asian nations
taking to the streets every time a Japanese
politician (such as former Prime Minister
Junichiro Koizumi) visited Yasukuni-jinja.
Literally For the Peace of the Country
Shrine, Yasukuni is the memorial shrine to
Japans war dead, some 2.5 million souls
who died in combat. However, although the
conservative right wing in Japan stands by
its patriotic duty to honour its war dead, the
complete story is just a tad more controver-
sial (to say the least).
To put things in perspective, its im-
portant to fully understand the history of
Yasukuni-jina. Although the shrine only
dates back to 1869, in the years leading
up to and during WWII, it was chosen as
Tokyos chief shrine of State Shint. During
this time, Yasukuni-jinja became the physi-
cal representation of the Japanese govern-
ments jingoistic policy. Needless to say,
harsh grip of Imperial Japan are less than
ecstatic when heads of state stop by and
pay their respects.
Of course, thats only half the story.
Despite a post-war constitutional com-
mitment to the separation of religion and
politics as well as a renunciation of milita-
rism, in 1979 14 class-A war criminals (as
determined by the US-led International
Military Tribunal for the Far East) including
Hideki Tojo (infamous WWII general) were
enshrined here amid worldwide protests.
And, as if to add salt to the wound, leading
Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) politicians
have made a habit of visiting the shrine on
the anniversary of Japans defeat in WWII
(15 August).
TRANSPORT: CENTRAL TOKYO
Train The JR Ch and JR Sbu Lines stop at
Iidabashi and Suidbashi, which are located at the
centre of this area.
Metro Useful stations include Iidabashi (Toei edo
Line), Krakuen (Marunouchi Line), Kagurazaka
(Tzai Line) and Hanzmon (Hanzmon Line).

54 55
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
CENTRAL TOKYO 0 0.3 miles CENTRAL TOKYO
9 INFORMATION Yamatane Bijutsukan (Yamatane DRINKING (pp17590)
Tokyo
Koishikawa Dome Belgian Embassy...................................1 A4 Museum of Art) .....10 C3 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka
Akagi- Krakuen City British Council Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Shrine) (see 19)
Kagurazaka Motomachi (Koishikawa Kraku
15
Garden) ....... 2 B2 .........................................11 C3
Tsukudocho 12
lidabashi See Akihabara British Embassy ... 3 C4 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
Kagurazaka & Kanda
17
13 Map p68 Indian Embassy ....... 4 C3 SHOPPING (pp13548) Academy of Language Arts
18 14 Irish Embassy 5 B4 Puppet House .12 C1 
Ka 16
gu
raz JR lidabashi ................................................18 C1
7
ak a
-d
JR Suidbashi
SIGHTS (pp5560) EATING (pp14974) La Qua Spa ............. (see 9)
Ushigome- ri
kagurazaka
21 Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum Beer Bar Bitter   Leafcup 7.................(see 8)
............................ (see 9) ..............................................13 C1
8
Nihon JCII Camera Museum Canal Caf .............14 C1 SLEEPING (pp20116)
University
Wakamiya .......................... 6 B4 Kado ...........................................15 B1 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka
2
Fujimi Kakurenbo-yokoch..............................7 B1 Seigetsu ....................................16 B1  19 B5
La Qua Spa .............(see 9) Hotel New tani
Leafcup 7....................8 C2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590) ...............20 A5
New tani Art Museum ................(see 20) Session House Tokyo International Youth Hostel
Tokyo Dome ....9 D1 ..................... 17 A1 ........................21 C1
o at)
(m
ori

Ichigaya-
tob

tamachi Regardless of your political leanings, a parent watering down of the hardships
So

Kudanshita visit to Yasukuni is highly recommended, they endured at Japans hands. Consider
Shinjuku-ku especially since its one of the most beau- this gem about the Rape of Nanjing (here
Kudankita 11 4 tiful shrines in Tokyo. Yasukuni-jinjas called the Nanking Incident) of Decem-

Kiy enormous torii (gate) at the entrance is, ber 1937: The Chinese were soundly de-
o
Kitanomaru- Momizu unusually, made of steel, while the second feated, suffering heavy casualties. Inside
ken at
(Kitanomaru set is made of bronze. The beautiful inner the city, residents were once again able
Park)
shrine is laid out in the style of Japans to live their lives in peace. Or you might
NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

Ichigaya 10 most important Shint edifice, Ise Shrine learn that Japan was forced into attacking
(100km southeast of Kyoto), and there are Pearl Harbor due to American and British
i

often seasonal displays of ikebana in the foreign policy of the time, or that The US
-dr
uma

1
inner courtyard. The grounds are charm- had no interest in bringing the war to an
ts

oat ingly home to a flock of doves, which early end. If this strikes you as blatant and
Hanz M Area not
open to
public balances out all the war hawks who are altogether despicable revisionism, many of
Ichibanch about. Japans neighbours feel the same.

3 Beyond the inner shrine, visitors are That said, many of the exhibits are
likely to come away with mixed feelings fascinating and harrowing. Note the kaiten
6 Chiyoda-ku
Fukiage about the shrines museum, the Yshkan, (human torpedo), essentially a submarine
Kjimachi
5 Imperial
Gardens Shimo- Japans oldest museum (1882). It starts, version of the kamikaze aeroplane. You
Hanzmon dkan
Moat fittingly enough for a war memorial, with can listen to the final message of a kaiten
u-dri
Shinjuk stately cases depicting Japans military pilot to his family its in Japanese but its
heritage and traditions, punctuated by easy to note how young he sounds. Theres
Shuto Expw

Kjimachi
See Imperial Palace

& Marunouchi displays of swords and samurai armour, also the miracle coconut inscribed and set
Map pp523 Imperial
and art and poetry extolling the brave, dar- afloat by a Japanese soldier in the Philip-
Uch

Sak

National Palace
y No 4

Theatre
ing and indomitable spirit of the Japanese pines shortly before his death in 1944. The
ibo

ura

(Kokuritsu
ri-d

Gekij)
da-

people. coconut floated in the Pacific for 31 years

ri

hu
bor
S

to Hirakawach
Kami- However, as you gradually progress before washing up very near his widows
i

Ex Benkei- Supreme M
bori Court oa dkan
through Japans 19th- and early-20th- hometown you can still make out the
pw

20
Kioi- 19 t Moat
Moat
y

Akasaka ch
Imperial
No 4 National
century military conflicts the Meiji Res- Japanese characters. The walls of the last
Residence Expwy
Shuto Diet
Library
toration, Satsuma Rebellion, tussles with few galleries of the Yshkan are covered
Nagatach
Akasaka-
mitsuke
Russia, occupation of Korea, and elsewhere with seemingly endless photos of the dead,
Sakuradamon
Kokkaimae
Garden
tempers tend to get a bit heated. enough to leave a lump in many throats
(Western Style) But the source of the most controversy and make one wonder about the value of
Hito

is the section of the museum covering any war.
tsug

National
Nagatach
i-dr

a-
d
ri

Diet
Building Kokkaimae the Greater East Asian War, which you As such, the feelings engendered by hav-
Garden
am
i

A oy (Japanese probably know as WWII. While there is ing to pay to visit a place of such solemnity
Style)
Tam

undoubtedly value in offering the Japanese can be mixed feelings the attached gift
ri

ri
d

See Akasaka
-d
achi

Akasaka
gi-

Map p92
perspective, one can also understand the shop, selling gaily decorated biscuits, choco-
ori
on

Kokkai-gijidmae
-dr

Kasumigaseki
hib
pp

Kasumigaseki anger of Japans neighbours at the ap- lates and curry, doesnt do much to dispel.
Ro
i

Uc

56 57
lonelyplanet.com

TOKYO DOME CITY Map p56
The most sophisticated onsen (hot spring) in Tokyo, La Qua is the ultimate destination for public bathers looking to spoil
Theres no shortage of stellar attractions awaiting you inside Tokyo Dome City:
Tokyo Dome
sign up for akasuri, a cleansing scrub that removes all of the dead skin from your body.
%5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e; 1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; all-day pass adult/child
4000/3000, night ticket (after 5pm) 3000/2800; h10am-10pm; bMarunouchi Line to Krakuen,
or JR Ch or JR Sbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit)
Although the grounds were originally home to the historic Kraku-en Stadium (1937), the Tokyo Dome (aka Big Egg)
opened with great fanfare in 1988, and has never once looked back. Then again, its hard to remain nostalgic about the
past when youre home to the Yomiuri Giants, the most successful franchise in the history of Japanese baseball.
The dome itself is an engineering marvel, especially considering that the Teflon roof is supported by nothing but air
the pressure is 0.3% higher indoors than out (what will the Japanese think of next?). You can take a stadium tour
(%3817-6086; adult/child from 1000/600) on the rare occasions when no events are on, though its best to call in
advance to confirm your spot.
The Tokyo Dome is surrounded by an amusement park with the usual assortment of coasters and spinners, as
well as a healthy smattering of bars, restaurants and shops. If you dont want to invest in an all-day pass offering
access to all of the rides (see information at the beginning of this listing), tickets are available for individual rides
(400 to 1000).
If youre looking to catch the Yomiuri Giants in action, the baseball season typically runs from the end of March
through October see p198 for more details.
La Qua Spa
NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO
lonelyplanet.com
themselves beyond comprehension. Spanning five floors of the Tokyo Dome, La Qua is a veritable pleasure palace that
quickly overwhelms the senses of even the most passionate of hedonists.
Start things off on the bathing floor in whichever hot, cold, indoor, outdoor, still, bubbling, natural or mineral pool
takes your fancy. When youve had enough, sweat it out in the sauna for a while, or visit the attendants station and
If you want the complete La Qua experience, spend the extra money and head up to the Healing Baden. Here you
can unwind in a variety of nature-themed rooms set at different temperatures breathe in the hot, dry desert air just
moments before you watch your breath condense in the Arctic room.
If you really want to go the whole distance, you can spoil yourself by shelling out a few thousand yen on a full body
massage. At La Qua you can choose from toe-stepping Thai massage, deep tissue Swedish massage or the obligatory
Japanese-style shiatsu massage.
If you start to get hungry, reunite with your friends of the opposite sex on the rendezvous floor, and recharge in any
of the inviting bars and restaurants. After eating and drinking your fill, grab a seat in the massage chair lounge, turn on
your personal TV and fully give in to the food coma. Bliss!
(For a quick primer on the proper onsen etiquette, see the boxed text, p193.)
Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum
%3811-3600; 1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; adult/child 400/200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-
Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Feb; bMarunouchi Line to Krakuen, or JR Ch or JR Sbu Line to
Suidbashi (west exit)
Baseball arrived in Japan in 1872, courtesy of an American teacher at the school that eventually became Tokyo University.

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

%5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua/spa.htm; 1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; entrance 2565,
charge for Healing Baden 525, extra charge for late night bathing 1890; h11am-9am; bMaru-
nouchi Line to Krakuen, or JR Ch or JR Sbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit)
Since then it has been a national obsession among Japanese of all ages.
From the establishment of college and professional baseball leagues in 1922 to the Japanese team winning the
bronze medal at the 2004 Olympics, this museum walks you through the glorious history of the Japanese sport. Be sure
to pick up the comprehensive English-language pamphlet so you dont miss anything.
The entrance to the museum is adjacent to Gate 21 of the Tokyo Dome.

KOISHIKAWA KRAKUEN
(KOISHIKAWA KRAKU GARDEN)
Map p56
enjoying it later we assume this sounds
%3811-3015; 1-6-6 Kraku, Bunky-ku; adult/sen
ior & child 300/free; h9am-5pm; bToei edo
Line to Iidabashi (exit C3)
This 70,000-sq-metre formal Japanese gar-
den is one of Tokyos most beautiful and
least visited (by foreigners at least) if you
have the slightest interest in gardens, you
should make a beeline for here.
Established in the mid-17th century as
the property of the Tokugawa clan, the
garden incorporates elements of Chinese
and Japanese landscaping, although
nowadays the shakkei (borrowed scenery)
also includes the otherworldly cool of the
Tokyo Dome. The garden is particularly
well known for plum trees in February,
irises in June and autumn colours. Of
particular note is the Engetsu-ky (full
moon bridge), which dates from the early
Edo period.
58
Krakuen means the garden of later from which images had to be downloaded
enjoyment, which comes from a Chinese to a floppy disk.
proverb about maintaining power first and Behind the museum is the JCII photo salon
(%3261-0300; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun)
better in Chinese. with a changing roster of photography
exhibits.
JCII CAMERA MUSEUM Map p56 Exiting Hanzmon Station, walk around
the Diamond Hotel. The photo salon is in
%3263-7100; www.jcii-cameramuseum.jp; 25 this alley, while the museum entrance is
Ichiban-cho, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child/student 300/ through to the next street.
free/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bHanzmon
Line to Hanzmon (exit 4) HOTEL NEW TANI Map p56
Whats that? You didnt know that Japan is
obsessed with photography? This museum, %3265-1111; www1.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo
established in 1989 by the Japan Camera /index.html; 4-1 Kioi-ch, Chiyoda-ku; bGinza or
Industry Institute, takes it a step further, Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke (Belle Vie exit)
for those for whom equipment is the thing. The New tani was a showplace when it
Holdings consist of over 10,000 cameras, of opened in 1964 to coincide with the Tokyo
which as many as 600 may be on show at Olympics. Even though the mantle of
any one time. Highlights of the collection tippy-top hotel has since gone elsewhere,
include the worlds first camera, the 1839 it remains worth visiting for its 400-year-old
Giroux daguerreotype (one of an estimated garden (admission free; h6am-10pm), which once
seven worldwide) and the Sony Mavica, a belonged to a Tokugawa regent, and for the
prototype for the original digital camera, New tani Art Museum (%3221-4111; hotel guests
free, nonguests from 500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun),
which displays a decent collection of modern
Japanese and French paintings as well as
wood-block prints. Otherwise, visitors may
be blown away by the hotels sheer mass:
two towers, 1533 guest rooms, nearly three
dozen banquet rooms and 37 (!) restaurants
and bars. Be sure to pick up a map. Also see
p205.
YAMATANE BIJUTSUKAN (YAMATANE
MUSEUM OF ART) Map p56
%3239-5911; 2 Sanbanch, Chiyoda-ku; adult/student
600/500, special exhibitions extra; h10am-5pm Tue-
Sun; bHanzmon Line to Hanzmon (exit 5)
This exceptional collection includes some
1800 Japanese paintings dating from the
Meiji Restoration and onward, of which
around 50 are on display at any one time;
exhibits change approximately every two
months. Some names to look for: Hayami
Gyosh (18941935), whose Dancing
Flames is an important cultural property;
59
lonelyplanet.com
and Okumura Togy (18891990), whose
Cherry Blossoms at Daigoji Temple is a mas-
terpiece in pastel colours. The museum
is located on the ground floor of the KS
Building.
KAGURAZAKA Map p56
bTzai Line or Yrakuch Line to Iidabashi
(exit B3)
Kagurazaka is worth a visit more for an
atmospheric stroll than for any particular
sights. Its intimate kakurenbo yokoch (hide-
and-seek alleys) recall bygone days of Edo,
or a city like Kyoto which wears its his-
tory on its sleeve. But this is Tokyo, which
means that the denizens of the nearby
government and business districts come
to broker their power, and deals are being
made behind the wooden faades and slid-
NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO
60
ing gates of the expensive restaurants and
nightspots.
From Sotobori-dri, head up Kagurazaka
Hill and turn right at Royal Host restaurant.
The back alleys will be on your left in a few
blocks.
RIKUGI-EN (RIKUGI GARDEN)
Map pp489
leaders. The department stores here are shopping extravaganzas, to be sure, but theyre so
%3941-2222; 6-16-3 Hon-Komagome; admis-
sion 300; h9am-5pm; bJR Yamanote Line to
Komagome, south exit
This fine garden has landscaped views
unfolding at every turn of the pathways that
crisscross the grounds. The garden is rich in
literary associations: its name is taken from
the six principles of waka poetry (31-syllable
poems), and the landscaping invokes famous
scenes from Chinese and Japanese literature.
lonelyplanet.com
GINZA
Eating p158; Shopping p136; Sleeping p205
Proudly reigning alongside 5th Avenue, Beverly Hills and the Champs-Elyses, Ginza is one
of the most famous upmarket shopping districts in the world. Lined with brand-name shops
and luxury boutiques, Ginza is as much a destination as it is a lifestyle. While Tokyos hordes
of salarymen slave away at the office, their wives shop till they drop, feeding millions upon
millions of yen into the Japanese consumerist machine.
There are clusters of department stores throughout Tokyo, but Ginzas have long been the
much more: highlights include traditional Japanese products and kimono displayed as if in art
galleries, in-store art galleries that actually are art galleries of current up-and-coming artists,
and wildly bustling food floors called depachika (p171).
Tokyoites sometimes point out that Ginza has lost a bit of its glamour over the past few
years, particularly since Aoyama, Ebisu and Daikanyama have become increasingly trendy.
However, Ginza, or the silver mint, is still where Tokyoites determined to shop often begin
their mission. The neighbourhood also remains the shopping mecca for Japanese tourists
visiting from the countryside.
Since it was one of the first areas of Tokyo to modernise during the Meiji Restoration, Ginza
has a European air that is atypical of urban Japan. With brick buildings, wide boulevards, tree-
lined streets, gas street lamps and other past emblems of Western modernity, Ginza is indeed
a rarity in the urban jungle of Tokyo.
Even if youre not out to empty the wallet and get your shopping fix, Ginza is still perfect for a
leisurely stroll or for lingering over a cup of coffee. On Sundays Ginza is at its best when the district
closes to motor vehicles, allowing the lively alleyways and lanes to come alive with pedestrians.
Ginza is bounded to the north by the Imperial Palace and the commercial district of Maru-
NEIGHBOURHOODS GINZA
nouchi. To the east and south are Tsukiji and Shiodome, where youll find fish and grocery
markets alongside soaring skyscrapers. Ginza itself, almost completely encircled by the Shuto
Expressway, is about as grid-like as Tokyo gets. Within these confines, the neat rows of squares
make for easy navigation through the boutiques, galleries and cafs.
KABUKI-ZA (KABUKI THEATRE) Map p62 leased. Kids love the free Playstation games
on the 6th floor, while adults tend to lose
%3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza an hour or so perusing all the latest audio
/theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; and video accessories. If nothing else, you
bHibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza can put your feet up and relax for a while in
(exit 3) one of the buildings two Hi-Vision theatres.
Located along the eastern end of Harumi-
dri is this famed kabuki theatre even if HIBIYA-KEN (HIBIYA PARK) Map p62
you dont plan on attending a performance,
its worth stopping by for a quick look. Admission free; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita
Reconstructed in the 1950s, the building Line to Hibiya (exits A5 & A13)
remains true to its 1920s fusion of Western Built around the turn of the 20th century
and Japanese architecture. If you do plan on at the height of Meiji Restoration, this
sitting in on a few acts, keep in mind that
its OK to bring your lunch and something
to sip on. See p176 for information on shows.
TRANSPORT: GINZA
SONY BUILDING Map p62 Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Shimbashi
Station, which borders Ginza to the west. From
%3573-2371; Sukiyabashi Crossing; admission the station, its a five- to 10-minute walk to reach
free; h11am-7pm; bMarunouchi, Ginza or central Ginza.
Hibiya Line to Ginza (exit B9)
Metro The Ginza and Marunouchi Lines are the best
Right on Sukiyabashi Crossing is the Sony
way to get to Ginza, which is centred on the aptly
Building, which attracts gadget hounds in
named Ginza Station.
search of gizmos that have yet to be re-
61
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
GINZA 0 0.3 miles GINZA
INFORMATION SHOPPING (pp13548) ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)

ri
Kybashi

ri-d
American Express Hakuhinkan Toy Park ......14 B3 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre)

ri
Yrakuch
ri

a-do
-d

Shin-Tokyo
............ 1 B1 Hayashi Kimono .......... 15 A2 .........................................30 C3

o bo
Building
ori

Hibiy
Tokyo Takarazuka Gekij
Citibank ...................... 2 B2

Sot
Itya ......................................16 C2
hib

International
.............................. 31 A2
Uc

Hibiya Forum Kybashi Matsuya ....................................17 B2

See Imperial Palace
& Marunouchi Ginza Post Office ......... 3 B3
Nibashimae Marunouchi
Map pp523
Takarach Kybashi Post Office .. 4 C3 Matsuzakaya .......................18 B2
Yrakuch Ginza
Sak Mitsukoshi ...............................19 B2 DRINKING (pp17590)
20 St Luke's International Hospital
ura Aux Amis des Vins
Chiyoda-ku -d
ri Muji ...................................20 B1
Hibiya JR Yrakuch 6 7
...............................5 D3 .........................32 C2
27
Tokyo
Tourist Information Center Seibu ..........................................21 B2
Kts Ginza- 36 Lion Beer Hall
1 Kaikan Gi
itchme
.................................... 6 B1 Takumi ................................. 22 A3
Hibiya-ken nz .................33 B3
(Hibiya Park) a 32 38
M Hatchbori
Sukiyabashi 21 ar
on 25 EATING (pp14974)
Crossing M n SIGHTS (pp613) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
31 at Ginza ie 16 Birdland .................23 B2
su Gallery Koyanagi 7 C1 Konparu-yu Onsen (see 11)

r-d
See Akasaka Ginza ya Kybei ...............................(see 11)

r
Map p92 15 29 -d
23 Ghibli Museum...................................... 8 C2 i Keibaj ...........................................34 B2

i
37 12 r
i

i L'Osier ......24 B2
r

i
i-d

Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman
r
d

34 17
h

Matsuya .................................(see 17) SLEEPING (pp20116)

y-
as

8 Shintomi Temple) ............................ 9 A3

n
ay

So

Uchisaiwaich Miravile Impact

ib

Ginza 19 Ginza Nikk Hotel

uk

S Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre)

K  ........25 C2 .......................... 35 A3
Ko ju 28 ........................................(see 30)
i
ns
r

kka h Mitsukoshi ............................(see 19) Hotel Seiy Ginza

-d

i-d 24 a-d 2 26 Shintomich

ma

ri r Shiseido Art House Nair's .....................................26 C2

u

...........................36 C1
Az

i 18
22 10 ...................10 B2
i

Imperial Hotel .......... 37 A2

r

Higashi- Nataraj ............................ (see 2)

-d

30
r

9 ginza Shiseido Gallery

i-d
iki

Sakata ...................................27 C1 Mercure Hotel Ginza Tokyo

m

ga

35 13 ri
Na

d
an

33 Ch-ku ........................11 B3
a-
ob

ar Ten-Ichi .....................................28 B2 ........38 C2

i-G

Ha ih
M

Sony Building .............12 B2

sh

11 na M Yrakuch Yakitori Alley Mitsui Urban Hotel Ginza

iyu
Ni

39 t ri
su d
ki-

14 ba i- Tokyo Gallery ...................13 B3 ......................29 B2 ....... 39 A3

dr

ki
- b or
to
i

SL Hiroba So
d

4
No 1

Square Shimbashi 5
ri

Tsukiji
Tsukiji the house thereof. The result is an ever- places of worship elsewhere (or relocated
ri
wy

See Tsukiji
Shimbashi JR Shimbashi & Shiodome d changing selection, particularly of instal- them to the rooftops of Ginzas temples of
si-
p
Ex

Map p65 to ha
Ha

NEIGHBOURHOODS GINZA

NEIGHBOURHOODS GINZA
hu - lation pieces, which lend themselves well commerce). Near Shimbashi Station, this
ru

n
S

Shimbashi Shiodome hi
i-d

to the high-ceilinged space. With a history is one shrine that remains at street level, a
S

3 Tsukijishij
i

dating back to 1919, its also one of the feat that was achieved by building over the
leafy park just west of Ginza was Tokyos SHISEIDO ART HOUSE Map p62 oldest galleries in the area. top of it.
first Western-style park. At the time, West-
ern design was the height of fashion, and %3571-0401; www.shiseido.co.jp/house-of HACHIMAN-JINJA (HACHIMAN TOKYO GALLERY Map p62
it doesnt take long to notice the similari- -shiseido; 7-5-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; admission free; TEMPLE) Map p62
ties to public spaces in London, Paris and h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line %3571-1808; 8-6-18 Ginza; admission free;
New York. If youre in need of a break on to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to 7-4 Ginza; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line bGinza Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)
a quiet afternoon, find your way to one Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to One of our favourite small galleries, the
of the two ponds for a cup of tea at a Underwritten by the cosmetics giant Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) Tokyo Gallery collaborates with a large
pavilion. Shiseido, this space is also a classic Ginza Its so small that you might stroll past and studio in Beijing, and shows challenging,
concoction: soft-sell corporate promo. not notice it which is exactly what makes often politically pointed works by Japanese
Hachiman-jinja worth pausing for. Real- and Chinese artists. The staff speaks English
GALLERY KOYANAGI Map p62 Most will be drawn by the alluring, won-
derfully displayed themed exhibitions estate values in Ginza have generally forced and is very friendly.

%3561-1896; www.gallerykoyanagi.com; 8th (past ones have included speciality hand-
fl, 1-7-5 Ginza; admission free; h11am-7pm bags and cosmetics for men), and along
Tue-Sat; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to the way you might find yourself distracted
Ginza (exit A9), or Yrakuch Line to Ginza-itchme by advertising icons of the history of
(exit 7) Shiseido.
This gallery exhibits photography and
prints in a space conspicuously set off by SHISEIDO GALLERY Map p62
blinding white light. The staff speaks flu-
ent English and is willing to talk about the %3572-3901; www.shiseido.co.jp/e/gallery/html;
work on the walls, which includes some 8-8-3 Ginza, Ch-ku; admission free; h11am-
of the leading artists of Japan and abroad, 7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line
like Sugimoto Hiroshi and Marlene Dumas. to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to
Enter around the rear of the building Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3)
housing the White Bell jewellery shop on This gallery in the basement of Shiseidos
Ch-dri. Ginza boutique is more experimental than
62 63
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
T SU K I J I & S H I O D O M E TSUKIJI & SHIODOME
i
0
0
500 m
0.3 miles

r
i-d
Eating p160; Sleeping p206 b or
SL Hiroba See Ginza to

No 1
Shimbashi
Square Map p62 So
An early morning visit to the Tsukiji fish market (below), arguably Tokyos top attraction, will Tsukiji Tsukiji

wy
awaken all your senses. From the sights and sounds of fresh tuna being sliced up with samu- JR Shimbashi 8

p
Ex
to

Ha
rai-like precision to the smells and tastes of a sushi breakfast so fresh it still wriggles in your 2 hu

ru
i
Shimbashi

r
S

m
mouth, Tsukiji is a world unto itself. Since most of the action takes place between the hours of

i-d

i-d
5

s
Shimbashi

r
ha
Tsukijishij

i
5am and 8am, youre either going to have to set the alarm clock for the wee hours of the morn

in
Ch-ku

Sh
or alternatively party all night long in the nearby pleasure district of Roppongi (p94). Minato-ku
1 7

ine
Prior to 1923, the citys fish market was ensconced in Nihombashi as it had been throughout

ail L
Shiodome 3
the Edo era. Of course the whole place smelled, well, fishy, and the markets well-off neighbours Shiodome

nor
Higashi-

Shimbashi 9
had grown weary of looking at its ugly faade. Fortunately for them (not so much for others),

Mo
Ts

e
uk
they got a reprieve when the deadly Great Kant Earthquake flattened it. Though some of the

om
iji

Ka
-g

Yurikam
aw r
ve )

ch
more stubborn stall-keepers insisted on returning to the old location, the market was officially 10 a Tsukiji Central R i wa

ido
6
Fish Market da ga
mi ida-

ki-
moved to the old naval lands at Tsukiji, where it is now the worlds largest fish market.

ri
4 u

b
d
S um

as
But not for much longer; the market is scheduled to move east to the Toyosu neighbour-

n-

hi
(S

iga
Hama Riky

Ka
hood, east of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River), in 2012. To see what the neighbourhood will Onshi-teien
(Detached
11

look like once the move is complete, look just a little south. Here youll find the skyscrapers of Palace Garden)

Shiodome business district pretty much all the construction you see here has been done in
the new millennium. Shiori-
no-Ike SIGHTS (pp646)
The markets of Tsukiji rest on the banks of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) on what were Advertising Museum Tokyo
once old naval lands. Heading away from Tsukiji to the northwest on foot via Hanatsubaki-dri .......................1 B1
will land you on the west end of Ginza, while walking just a few minutes to the southwest will Nakagin Capsule Tower ...................................... 2 B1
Namiyoke-jinja .................................3 C2
bring you to the gates of Hama Riky Onshi-teien, one of Tokyos most expansive gardens. Tsukiji Central Fish Market ..........4 C2
Shiodome is the cluster of tall buildings on the other side of the Shuto Expressway. Although this

Shuto Expwy No 1
Tsukiji Outer Market .......................5 C1
largely residential and commercial district doesnt attract as many tourists as the surrounding
NEIGHBOURHOODS TSUKIJI & SHIODOME

NEIGHBOURHOODS TSUKIJI & SHIODOME

Hammamatsuch
EATING (pp14974)
areas, it is home to one of the citys most appealing skylines. Daiwa Sushi .......................................6 C2
Ky- Din Tai Fung ...........................................7 B1
Shibariky
TSUKIJI CENTRAL FISH MARKET around the seemingly endless rows of Onshi-teien
Takeshiba
Edogin .......................................................8 C1

Map p65 fishmongers. Takeshiba
Yappari Tako .......................(see 1)

The stalls are set up to sell directly to Ferry Terminal

www.tsukiji-market.or.jp; admission free; hearly
morning, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of most months, Sun
& public holidays; bToei edo Line to Tsukijishij
(exit A1) or Hibiya Line to Tsukiji (exit 1 or 2)
If it lives in the sea, its probably for sale
in the Central Fish Market, where acres
and acres of fish and fish products change
hands in a lively, almost chaotic atmos-
phere. Everything is allotted its own area,
and a quick scan of the loading docks will
reveal mountains of octopus, rows of giant
tuna, endless varieties of shellfish and tank
upon tank of live exotic fish.
About 2246 tonnes of fish, worth over
1.8 billion yen (US$15.5 million), are sold
here daily; thats 615,409 tonnes of fish
worth some US$4.25 billion a year. Its not
unheard of for a single tuna to fetch an
incredible 20 million!
The auctions are not officially open
to the general public, but if you are of
a mind to go (trust us its worth it!),
you have to be there around 5am to see
the action. Afterwards, you are free to
visit the wholesalers market, and wander
64
restaurants, retail stores and other com-
mercial enterprises. In fact, some of the
hundreds of merchants have been here for
more than 20 generations! The hustle and
bustle can be intoxicating, and as long as
youre there before 8am, some kind of push
and pull will doubtless be going on. Keep
in mind, however, that the market shuts
completely by 1pm for cleaning. Although
TRANSPORT: TSUKIJI &
SHIODOME
Train Shimbashi Station (JR and subway lines) is
the transit hub for Shiodome. Shimbashi is also the
terminus for the Yurikamome Line for Odaiba.
Metro The best way to reach Tsukiji fish market is to
take either the Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Station, or the
Toei edo Line to nearby Tsukijishij.
Waterbus Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) water
taxis stop at the pier on the east end of Hama Riky
Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden; Map p65).
Destinations include Asakusa and Odaiba.
SLEEPING (pp20116)
Conrad Hotel .............. 9 B2
Hotel Villa Fontaine Shiodome
....10 A2
To Izu Islands
Tokyo TRANSPORT (pp23744)
Bay
(112km);
Ogasawara Water Bus Pier ...............11 C2
Hinode
Islands
(1000km)
the market is not as odoriferous as you we can almost guarantee you will find
might think, you still dont want to wear something of interest in Tsukijis Outer
your nicest clothing (and especially not Market. With that said, if you hate food in
your best shoes). general, well, there is not much we can do
Tradition has it that you should finish to help you.
your visit here with a sushi breakfast. Daiwa The Outer Market is neither as famous
Sushi (p160) is within the market itself and nor as breathtakingly busy as its inner
gathers long, long queues. counterpart. But that is usually a blessing,
Between the Central Fish Market and given that it allows you the time you need
the Outer Market (see right) is Namiyoke-jinja, to browse all kinds of seafood (naturally)
the Shint shrine where wholesalers and and produce, noodle shops, tiny cafs and
middlemen come to pray before work. cooking supply shops. In addition, youll
Highlights are the giant gold parade also find boots, baubles, baskets, plates,
masks used for the lion dance and the picks (of the tooth variety) and pottery, all
dragon-shaped taps over the purification at reasonable prices.
basins. It can be quite an education to see how
If you have arrived too late to see the those Japanese foods youve always loved
fish auctions, or maybe you just cant are actually made, and to learn what all
stand the thought of dead sea creatures, those tiny bowls and plates are used for. In
65
lonelyplanet.com

short, the Tsukiji Outer Market is a one-stop riving by boat from Asakusa via the Sumida-

shop for anything you need to prepare and
serve that next great Japanese meal. Be
sure to first check your countrys import
restrictions if you plan to take any food
products home with you.
HAMA RIKY ONSHI-TEIEN
(DETACHED PALACE GARDEN) Map p65
days; bGinza, Toei Asakusa or JR Yamanote Line
%3541-0200; adult/senior 300/150; h9am-
5pm; bToei edo Line to Shiodome (A2 or A3 exit)
or Tsukijishij (exit A2)
Once a shgunal palace extending into
the area now occupied by the fish market,
this traditional Japanese garden is one of
Tokyos finest. The Detached Palace Garden
features a large duck pond with an island
thats home to a charming tea pavilion, as
well as some wonderfully manicured trees
(black pine, Japanese apricot, hydrangeas,
camellias etc), some of which are hundreds
of years old. Besides visiting the park as a
side trip from Ginza or Tsukiji, consider ar-
NEIGHBOURHOODS TSUKIJI & SHIODOME
lonelyplanet.com
gawa cruise aboard the Suij Bus (p87). AK I HABAR A & K AN DA
Eating p160; Sleeping p207
ADVERTISING MUSEUM TOKYO
Akihabara is just as much Tokyos centre for electronics as it is for otaku (geek) culture. From
Map p65
multistoreyed computer stores and back-alley discount camera shops to anime cafs and the
latest in geek fashions, Akihabara is one of Tokyos most bizarre districts. Indeed, for many
%6218-2500; www.admt.jp; B1 fl, 1-8-2 Higashi years Akihabara was off the radar screen for most foreign visitors, aside from a few in-the-know
Shimbashi, Minato-ku; admission free; h11am- tourists looking to score some cheap electronics. However, following the rapidly increasing
6.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat & public holi- global popularity of anime, otaku culture and all things Japanese, a visit to Akihabara is becom-
ing something of a Tokyo staple.
to Shimbashi (Shiodome Shio-site exit or exit A3) With its street touts hawking cheap goods, electronic bells ringing with inimitable sound
Dentsu, Japans largest advertising agency,
and fury, geeks of all ages decked out in anime garb, and a frenetic street scene of lights, beeps
operates this rather extensive museum
and endless pedestrian traffic, Akihabara can quickly overwhelm the senses. Of course part
of Japanese ads in the basement of the
of the reason why you are in Akihabara is to stand at the ground zero of geekdom, though
Caretta building. The collection covers
you can always manage to find respite in the neighbouring commercial and residential
wood-block printed handbills from the Edo
district of Kanda.
period through sumptuous Art Nouveau
During the Edo period, the vibrant green banks of the Kanda-gawa were famously depicted
and Art Deco Meiji- and Taisho-era works
in wood-block prints. Streets in the neighbourhood were lined with artisans shops, and a resi-
to the best of today. Although theres not a
dential district served as a rowdy, overcrowded home to workers and craftsmen. These days,
lot of English signage, the strong graphics
however, Kandas vital spirit has been channelled by the thousands of students who inhabit
of many of the ads stand alone, and theres
Ochanomizu, the area that lies north of Kanda proper. Nihon University and Meiji University,
a video room where you can watch award-
two of Japans most prestigious private universities, are located nearby, and a couple of enclaves
winning TV commercials from around the
cater to them with clusters of shops as in days of old.
world.
Akihabara and Kanda lie firmly within the bounds of Yamanote, between the Imperial Palace
and Marunouchi to the west and Ueno to the east. Electric Town is to the west of Akihabara
Station, while Kanda is west of the grounds of the Imperial Palace.

NEIGHBOURHOODS AKIHABARA & KANDA

AKIHABARA ELECTRIC TOWN
Map p68
elsewhere (and competition has come in
Denki-gai; west of JR Akihabara; bJR Yamanote
or JR Sbu Line to Akihabara (Denki-gai exit)
What the Tsukiji Central Fish Market is to
the food trade, Akihabara is to Japans le-
gendary electronics industry: bustling, busy
and fun to watch. Bonus: you dont have
to get up early in the morning to catch the
action (afternoon is prime time).
Big box retailers (Ishimaru Denki, Laox,
Onoden, Sat Musen and Yamagiwa among
them), wholesale shops and tiny stalls all
compete to sell you everything from big
appliances to microscopic components, ro-
bots, mouse pads and next years comput-
ers, some at a steep discount from prices
on the outside. Some items are intended
for export (make sure the voltage and
plugs match what you use at home), others
are just coming onto the market, so even
if you have no intention of shopping now,
its worth a peek to see what you may be
buying two years hence.
Akihabara can no longer claim exclusive
rights to the title of the citys electronics
centre (thanks to increased competi-
tion from denser hubs like Shinjuku and
Ikebukuro), yet it is still quite the scene.
As the electronics business has moved
from gasp! Korea, China and Taiwan),
Akihabara has turned to the boom market
in cartoon manga (comics), often porno-
graphic, to round out its fiscal activity.If
you like your pornography of the PG-13
variety, dont miss the opportunity to
have a cup of coffee and a pastry in any
of Akihabaras wholly unique Maid Cafs
(see p161).
TRANSPORT: AKIHABARA &
KANDA
Train The JR Yamanote and Keihin-Thoku Lines
both stop at Akihabara and Kanda. Akihabara is also
served by the JR Sbu Line, which runs from east to
west across Central Tokyo.
Metro Since the Hibiya Line stops a bit east of the
main electronics neighbourhood, the JR is more
convenient. For Kanda, the Marunouchi Line stops
at Awajich, close to the traditional restaurant
neighbourhood. To get to Jimbch, take either the
Toei Shinjuku or the Hanzmon Lines to Jimbch
Station.

66 67
lonelyplanet.com

KANDA MYJIN (KANDA SHRINE) three floors of galleries with the aim of

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
AKIHABARA & KANDA 0 0.3 miles
promoting new and emerging artists. There
Map p68
Tait
is a regularly changing programme of exhi-
See Ueno %3254-0753; www.kandamyoujin.or.jp; 2-16-2 bitions, competitions and lectures in media
Map p72
5
See Asakusa
Map p86 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; bMaru- ranging from painting to video art.

ri
Suehiroch
Yushima nouchi Line to Ochanomizu (exit 2)

Shwa-dri
ibashi-d
Kuramaeba
shid
10 ri Hidden behind the main streets, this little- NICHOLAI CATHEDRAL Map p68

Shhe
Suidbashi
known but quite splendid Shint shrine
Sotobori-dri
boasts vermillion-coloured halls surround- %3295-6879; hrc@gol.com; 4-1 Surugadai, Kanda,

1
Shuto Expwy No
Suehiroch
Ochanomizu
Akihabara
ing a stately courtyard. It traces its history Chiyoda-ku; donation 300; h1-4pm Tue-Fri Apr-
13 Electronics
Neighbourhood
Akihabara back to AD 730, though its present loca- Sep, 1-3.30pm Tue-Fri Oct-Mar; bChiyoda Line to
Sarugakuch JR Ochanomizu Soto- 19 1
9
Asakusabashi
tion dates from 1616. The kami (gods) Shin-Ochanomizu (exit C12)
Kanda
Kanda- 23
18
8
enshrined here are said to bring luck in This Russian Orthodox cathedral is named
ri

surugadai 12 business and in finding a spouse. It is the for St Nicholai of Japan (18361912), who
a i- d

4 11 Akihabara

id

29 Nichidai 17 14 home shrine of the Kanda Matsuri (Kanda first arrived as chaplain of the Russian
Me

Hospital 6 26 3
Kanda- 7 JR Akihabara
Meiji
Bookshop University Shin-Ochanomizu Awajich
2 Festival; p18) in mid-May, one of the largest consulate in the port city of Hakodate
Neighbourhood Kanda-
22Sudach
festivals in Tokyo. (Hokkaid) and through missionary work
Kanda-gawa
Jimbch
24
21 soon amassed about 30,000 faithful. The
Sporting Goods
15 16 Neighbourhood
20 Iwamotoch TOKYO ANIME CENTER Map p68 Tokyo building, complete with a distinctive
Awajich
onion dome, was first constructed in 1891.
Suzuran-dri
 Ogawamachi

Yasukuni-dri
Kanda- 28 %5298-1188; www.animecenter.jp; 4th fl, Aki- The original copper dome was, like parts
tach Kanda

Iwamotoch

See Sumida
River Map habara UDX Bldg, 4-14-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; of so many grand buildings, damaged in
Kanda- p126
Jimbch Nishikich 27 admission free; h11am-7pm; bJR Yamanote or the 1923 earthquake, forcing the church

Kanda-
Keisatsu

-dri
JR Sbu Line to Akihabara (Electric Town or Denki- to downsize to the (still enormous) dome
Kodemmach
Chiyoda-ku gai exit) thats now in place. If youre interested in
JR Kanda The recently opened Tokyo Anime Center attending worship services, inquire inside
NEIGHBOURHOODS AKIHABARA & KANDA

NEIGHBOURHOODS AKIHABARA & KANDA

Sh is less a museum than a place for promot- for times.
Shu
u to Uchi-
Takebashi
Exp
wy Kanda to E
ing the latest and greatest in the world of
Kodemmach
xpw
anime (animation) and its merchandising. YUSHIMA SEID (YUSHIMA SHRINE)
Ch
No

Nihom
5

-d

yN
bashi
temachi
-gaw
a 25 Facilities include exhibit halls, a shop and a Map p68
o
ri

theatre for cinematic screenings of anime

1

Higashi-gyoen
(Imperial Palace
East Garden)
AKIHABARA & KANDA
INFORMATION
Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ
.......................................1 C2
Kanda Post Office .........2 C2
SIGHTS (pp679)
Akihabara Electric Town
......................................3
Ishimaru Denki ....................4
Kanda Myjin (Kanda Shrine)
...............................................5
Nicholai Cathedral .......6
Onoden ..................................7
Sat Musen ................8
Tokyo Anime Center
...................... 9
Tokyo Wonder Site
.....10
Yamagiwa ..........................11
Shin-nihombashi
See Imperial Palace
& Marunouchi
as well as appearances by voice actors and %3251-4606; 1-4-25 Yushima, Bunky-ku; admis-
Map pp523 anime creators (some 200 events annually). sion free; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm
Nihombashi
temachi
temachi
Although it is still something of a work in Oct-Mar; bMarunouchi Line to Ochanomizu (exit 2)
progress, displays are planned to be in four
Established in 1632 and later used as a
Eitai-
dri
Mitsukoshimae
languages, including English. school for the sons of the powerful dur-
ing the Tokugawa regime, Yushima Seid
TOKYO WONDER SITE Map p68 is one of Tokyos few Confucian shrines.
There is a Ming dynasty bronze statue of
Yamagiwa .......................... 12 C2 Isegen ....................................... 21 C2 Confucius in its black-lacquered main hall,
Yushima Seid (Yushima Shrine) Kanda Yabu Soba . 22 C2
%5689-5531; www.tokyo-ws.org in Japanese; 2-
............................................. 13 B2 Marugo Tonkatsu 4-16 Hongo, Bunky-ku; admission free; h11am- which was rebuilt in 1935. The sculpture
...................................23 C2 7pm Tue-Sun; bJR Sbu Line to Ochanomizu or is visible only from 1 to 4 January and the
SHOPPING (pp13548) Matsuya ........................................ 24 C2 Suidbashi fourth Sunday in April, but you can turn up
Akihabara Radio Center
Operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Gov- at weekends and holidays for a chance to
............... 14 C2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
C2 Disk Union Chiyoda Sogo Taikukan Pool ernment, Tokyo Wonder Site comprises see the buildings interior.
C2 ..........................15 A2 .................... 25 C4
Issei-d .....................................16 A2
C1 Kayd Hobby Lobby SLEEPING (pp20116)
B2 ....................(see 7) Hotel My Stays Ochanomizu
C2 Laox ................................. 17 C2 26 B2
C2 Tsukumo Robotto koku  New Central Hotel
................................... 18 C2 .......... 27 C3
C2 Presso Inn Kanda
EATING (pp14974) ......................... 28 C3
A1 @Home Caf.......................................... 19 C2 Yama-no-Ue (Hilltop) Hotel
C2 Botan ........................................ 20 C2 ................................... 29 B2

68 69
lonelyplanet.com

UENO
Eating p161; Sleeping p207
Forming part of the historic core of Shitamachi, Ueno has always proudly thumbed its nose
at the high fashions and fickle trends of the high-class districts in Yamanote. Although rising
real estate prices and recent gentrification have erased most vestiges of the old atmosphere,
Uenos Ameyoko Arcade, which was once the site of the largest post-war black market, still
holds true to its proud roots. Here youll find fishmongers, fruit and vegetable sellers, knock-
off clothing vendors and a healthy smattering of open-air markets, all of which sell products
that are more or less legit.
Historically, Ueno Hill was famous as being the site of a last-ditch defence of the Tokugawa
shgunate by an estimated 2000 loyalists in 1868. Devoted to preventing the restoration of
the emperor, these adherents stationed themselves at Kanei-ji, a grand temple compound
located up on the hill. They were duly dispatched by the imperial army, which prompted
the subsequent Meiji government to decree that Ueno Hill would become one of Tokyos
first parklands.
Today, Ueno-ken is the neighbourhoods foremost attraction and one of Tokyos most
famous leafy retreats. Boasting a wealth of museums, shrines, a kid-friendly zoo, some phe-
nomenal cherry-blossom viewing (p20) and the hallowed precincts of Tokyo University (Japans
most prestigious institution of higher learning), Ueno Park for an afternoon is the perfect
antidote to the urban grind.
The sprawling Ueno Station is the nexus of the neighbourhood, with the greater Asakusa
area to the east and Akihabara and Kanda to the south. In Ueno itself, all things lead to the
park with its myriad art museums; to get here, take the Ueno-ken (Ueno Park) exit from
Ueno Station.
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO
lonelyplanet.com
TOKYO FOR CHILDREN
Tokyo deliberately cultivates spaces for children. Parks, museums and other venues are designed with wee ones in
mind. And, even on a limited budget, youll find things here reasonably priced and accessible. The following should
get you started:
Fune No Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science; p131) Filled with detailed model ships, hands-on displays and a
cool pool for piloting remote-control submarines.
Ikebukuro Bsai-kan (Ikebukukuro Earthquake Hall; p123) Younger children may be rattled, literally, by the simula-
tions of earthquakes and fires, but its important preparation for older kids.
Kodomo-no-Shiro (National Childrens Castle; Map p110; www.kodomono-shiro.jp/english/index.html; adult/child
over 3 500/400; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya, east exit, or Ginza Line to Omote-sand, B2 exit) Has playrooms,
puppet theatres, a swimming pool and a music lobby where kids can make all the noise they like. The Childrens
Castle Hotel (p213) next door was built especially for those with young children and can be a convenient refuge for
travelling families. Its located off Aoyama-dri.
Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103) This museum is ideal for kids who like big worms and other scary bugs.
Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation; p130) Offers interactive exhibits where kids can
manipulate robots and micromachines, and explore the principles of superconductivity.
Mori Art Museum (p95) This is a dramatic place to introduce kids to contemporary art. If they weary of the exhibits,
excellent views await on the 52nd-floor observation decks.
Tokyo Disney Resort (www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp/index_e.html; 1-day pass adult/child 12-17/child 4-11 yr
5800/5000/3900, 2-day pass adult/child 12-17/child 4-11 yr 10,000/8800/6900; bJR Keiyo Line to Maihama)
The worlds most successful theme park is home to kid-friendly Tokyo Disneyland as well as the more adult-oriented
Tokyo DisneySea.
Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan(Tokyo Metropolitan Childrens Hall; Map p106; %3409-6361; www.fukushihoken.metro

AMEYA YOKOCH (AMEYOKO
ARCADE) Map p72
spices, fresh seafood, durian fruit and
h10am-8pm; bYamanote Line to Okachimachi
(north exit) or Ueno (south exit), or Ginza Line to
Ueno Hirokji or Hibiya Line to Naka-Okachimachi
(both exit A5)
This unabashed shopping street is one of
the few areas in which some of the rough
readiness of old Shitamachi still lingers.
Step into this alley paralleling the JR Yama-
note Line tracks south of JR Ueno Station,
and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo may seem like a
distant memory.
Ameyoko earned its notoriety as a fa-
mous black-market district in the years
following WWII, though today its primarily
a bargain shopping area. Simple shops spill
out into the alleys, selling block after block
of cheap clothing (for Japan, anyway), pro-
duce, dried fruit, dried nori (seaweed), dried
mushrooms and dried squid.
Some of the same tourist items on sale
in Ginza sell here at more reasonable
rates. Shopkeepers also stand on less
ceremony than those in other shopping
areas in Tokyo, brazenly hawking their
goods with guttural cries to the passing
crowds. In the Ameyoko Center building, Chi-
nese, Korean and Southeast Asian mer-
70
chants have set up their own shopping
arcade where youll find exotic cooking
human body maze or get messy in the hands-on art studio, where children can make pottery and origami. Its 300m
other unusual imported items.
UENO-KEN (UENO PARK)
Map p72
%3828-5644; admission free; h5am-11pm;
bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or
Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Ken exit)
Tokyos oldest public park has several
names: its Sunday name, which no-one
ever uses, is Ueno Onshi Ken; some locals
dub it Ueno no Oyama (Ueno Mountain);
and English speakers call it Ueno Park.
TRANSPORT: UENO
Train The JR Yamanote Line terminates at Ueno
Station and is the best transport option for
reaching Ameyoko. The private Keisei Line also
terminates here, and has cheap connections to
Narita Airport.
Metro The Hibiya and Ginza Lines connect with
Ueno Station and let you off near the park. If youre
heading to Tokyo University or Yushima Tenjin, take
the Chiyoda Line to Yushima.
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO
.tokyo.jp/jidou/English/index.html; 1-18-24 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya,
east exit [Miyamasuzaka]) Boasts six kid-friendly storeys and a number of ingenious play areas check out the
northeast of Shibuya Station, next to Mitake-ken.
Ueno Dbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo; p71) This fairly comprehensive zoo has all the usual lions and tigers and bears. If
youve come with little ones, the real attraction here is the goat- and sheep-filled petting zoo.
There are a number of amusement parks, including the oldie-but-a-goody Hanayashiki Amusement Park (Map
p86; %3482-8780; www.hanayashiki.net, in Japanese; 2-28-1 Asakusa, Tait-ku; adult/child under 5/5-12 yr
900/free/400, rides cost extra h10am-6pm;) the more razzle-dazzle-y Tokyo Dome City (p58), the indoor
amusements and food theme-parks of Namco Namjatown (p121) and one of the worlds tallest Ferris wheels
(p132) in Odaiba.
Whichever you prefer, Ueno Ken makes places, a statue of Saig Takamori. Fans of the
for a pleasant city escape. movie The Last Samurai should note that
There are two entrances to the park: Katsumoto, the character played by Ken
the main one takes you straight into the Watanabe, was loosely based on Takamori,
museum and art gallery area, a course that a Tokugawa loyalist who gained legendary
might leave you worn out before you get status among the common Japanese. The
to Uenos temples. Instead, its better to Meiji government, capitalising on this
start at the southern entrance between fame, posthumously pardoned Takamori,
Ueno JR Station and Keisei Ueno Station, and granted him full honours. Today he
and do a little temple-viewing en route to remains an exemplar of the samurai spirit
the museums. From the JR Station, take the in Japan.
Ikenohata exit and turn right. Just around Continue along the way, bear to the
the corner is a flight of stairs leading up far left and follow a wide tree-lined path
into the park. until you reach Kiymizu Kannon-d, modelled
Situated slightly to your right at the top after the landmark Kiymizu-dera in Kyoto.
of the stairs is the mother of all meeting During Ningy-kuy (p19) those wishing to
71
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
UENO 0 0.3 miles UENO
INFORMATION Kokuritsu Seiy Bijutsukan (National EATING (pp14974)
Police Box ............................................1 C2 Museum of Western Art) Chalet Swiss Mini
Nishi- Tait-ku Ward Office ................................... 14 C3 .........................25 C1
Nippori
............................................. 2 D4 Saig Takamori Statue Futaba ........................... 26 C4
Nishi-
Nippori Tourist Information Center.....................3 C4 ........................................ 15 C4 Hantei ............................................27 B3
Ueno-ken Information Centre Shitamachi Museum Izu-ei .............................................. 28 C4
25 Arakawa-ku  ................................... 16 C4 Sasa-no-Yuki .............................. 29 D2

 .....................................................4 C3 Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo University)
.................................................. 17 B3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
Nippori
Sendagi 6 SIGHTS (pp705) Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan Boat Hire...................................................... 30 C4
38
Ameya Yokocho (Ameyoko Arcade) (Tokyo National Museum) Kdkan Jud Institute ......... 31 A4
35 ............................ 5 C4 ...................................18 D3 Rokuryu nsen .................... 32 C3
1
Ameyoko Building...................................(see 5) Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art
Hon-Komagome
11 Asakura Chso Museum ........................................ 19 C3 SLEEPING (pp20116)
29 ................................................6 C1 Tshgu ....................................... 20 C3 Hotel Parkside
Yanaka
Cemetery Benten-d ......................................7 C4 Tykan (Gallery of Eastern ........................ 33 C4
Tait-ku Negishi
Bunky-ku Heiseikan ........................................8 C2 Antiquities) ............................. 21 D3 Ryokan Katsutar ........... 34 C3
Hakusan Yanaka Hykeikan ......................................9 C3 Ueno Dbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo) Ryokan Katsutar Annex 

Kanei-ji .......................................... 10 C2 ............................................. 22 C3 .............................................35 B2
Uguisudani
-d
ri Kannon-ji ..................................... 11 C2 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Shrine) Sawanoya Ryokan ..........36 B2
36 otoi 10 Tokugawa Shgun
Kot Rei-en (Tokugawa Kiymizu Kannon-d .................................................. 23 B4 Suigetsu Hotel
8 Shgun Cemetery) Iriya
.............................................12 C3 gai-s ............ 37 C3
Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan SHOPPING (pp13548) Suzuki Ryokan ...................... 38 C1
Ueno
32 18 (National Science Museum) Ameyoko Arcade ...........(see 5) Ueno First City Hotel
Nezu 9
34 ...................................13 D3 Matsuzakaya .............................. 24 C4 .... 39 C4
27 19
Ueno-ken 21
(Ueno Park)

e
22

Lin
Nezu Ikenohata 13
lanterns rendered as gifts by daimy in the TOKYO KOKURITSU HAKUBUTSUKAN

a
Todai-mae

biy
Keise

37 Aesop
Edo period. (TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM) Map p72

Hi
20 14
Bridge
i Line
Hong

Monorail Tokyo
Bunka 4
Kita-Ueno
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

UENO DBUTSU-EN (UENO ZOO) %3822-1111; www.tnm.jp; 13-9 Ueno Ken, Tait-
D

Suijdobutsu- Kaikan UENO

-dri

but

17 ike 12 Ueno See Asakusa

ku; adult/child 420/free, student free-130, addi-
sue

Map p86 Map p72

Shinobazu-d

n-d

Hong 30 2
tional charges for special exhibitions; h9.30am-5pm
ri

Bto- 15 Asaku
sa-d
ike 7 Keisei ri Inarich
Ueno Ueno
%3828-5171; www.tokyo-www.zoo.net Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza
Eki-mae-dri

Shinobazu-
/english/index.html; 9-38 Ueno Ken, Tait-ku; or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Ken exit)
ri

ike 16

Ky-Iwasaki-tei 33 28 5 Higashi-Ueno
adult/child/student/senior 600/free/200/300; If you visit only one museum in Tokyo,
ri

i-dri
NakUeno
a-d

Gardens
Kasuga
Ueno-Okachimachi Naka
mach
3 h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line make it this one. The Tokyo National Mu-
Yushima 26
31 Okachimachi Naka-
Okachimachi or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno seums grand buildings hold the worlds
Krakuen Toei Oedo Line Shin-
Hongo-sanchme 23
Ueno-
hirokji 24
Kasuga-
dri okachimachi (Ueno Ken exit) largest collection of Japanese art, and you
Marunouchi Line
Yushima Tsukuba Ex could easily spend an entire day perusing
39 Tait
press Line Japans oldest zoo was established in 1882,
and is home to lions, tigers and bears (oh the galleries here. The building dates from
my!). This being Asia, however, most visi- 1939, and is in the imperial style, which
conceive a child leave a doll here for the way to the right. Follow this path and take tors head straight for the rather sweet and fuses Western and Japanese architectural
Senj Kannon (the 1000-armed Buddhist the second turn to the left. This will take sleepy-looking pandas, which were a gift to motifs.
goddess of mercy), and the accumulated you into the grounds of Tsh-g (%3822- Japan from the government of China. The museum has four galleries, the most
dolls are burnt ceremoniously each 25 3455), which was established in 1627 (the Even if youre not normally a fan of important of which is the Honkan (Main
September. present building dates from 1651). This zoos, you should know that the animals Gallery). For an introduction to Japanese
From the temple, continue down to is a shrine which, like its counterpart in in Ueno are well cared for, and all of art history from Jmon to Edo in one fell
the narrow road that follows the pond, Nikk, was founded in memory of Tokugawa them live in somewhat natural habitats. swoop, head to the 2nd floor. Other gal-
Shinobazu-ike. Through a red torii (gate), Ieyasu (p224). Although its small compared to zoos in leries include ancient pottery, religious
located on an island in the pond, is Benten- Inside, beyond the subdued worship your own country, its larger than youd sculpture, arms and armour, exquisite
d, a memorial to Benten, a patron god- hall, Ieyasus shrine is all black lacquerwork think given the obvious space constraints lacquerware and calligraphy.
dess of the arts. Behind the temple you and gold leaf. Miraculously, the entire of Tokyo. Plus, all of the big-name animals The Tykan (Gallery of Eastern An-
can hire a small boat (%3828-9502; row boats per structure has survived all of Tokyos many from around the globe are well represented tiquities) boasts a collection of art and
hr 600, paddle boats per 30min 600; h9am-5pm disasters, making it one of the few early Edo here. archaeological finds from all over Asia,
Mar-Nov) to take out on the water, weather structures still extant. Theres a good view If youre visiting the zoo with the kids, with an emphasis on Chinese arts and
permitting. of the 17th-century, five-storey pagoda you can take a ride on the monorail to the archaeology. Heiseikan (Heisei Hall) is the
Make your way back to the road that Kanei-ji, now stranded inside Ueno Zoo, to petting zoo, where your precious wee ones newest, opened in 1999 to commemorate
follows Shinobazu-ike and turn left. Where your right as you take the pathway into can gently run their small, sticky hands over the marriage of Crown Prince Naruhito,
the road begins to curve and leaves Shi- the shrine. The pathway itself is fronted tame domesticates such as ducks, horses and it is used for exhibitions of Japanese
nobazu-ike behind, there is a stair path- by a stone torii and lined with 200 stone and goats. archaeology.
72 73
lonelyplanet.com

or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Hall, ousting the schools president and

lonelyplanet.com
A MEDLEY OF MUSEUMS Ken exit) other administrators before finally being
Established in 1926, this museum hosts spe- ousted themselves. In order to make an
There are some 240 museums in Tokyo, ranging from the grand and world-scale to quirky one-room affairs of mind- example of the students, police employed
cial exhibitions of everything from traditional
boggling specificity. If youre planning on visiting any of them, here are some tips to keep in mind. tear gas as well as blasting the students
Japanese arts, such as ink brush and ikebana,
Museum hours are generally 10am to 5pm, and nearly all museums are closed Mondays. Hours in this book refer stronghold with fire hoses on national TV
to avant-garde shows paid for by groups of
to closing times, not to last-admission times (usually an hour prior to closure). in what came to be called the battle of
artists who collaborate to rent gallery space.
Student discounts are common by school type (university, high school etc), and for the youngest visitors admis- Yasuda castle.
One annual event taking place in November,
sion is usually free. Seniors discounts are less frequent. You may be required to show ID for any discount. Today, students at Tdai are a bit more
which consistently draws hundreds of thou-
The GRUTT Pass allows free or discounted admission to some 45 attractions around town within two months, and tame, and have a reputation among the
sands, is the exhibit of the Nitten. The Nitten
it can be excellent value. It costs 2000 and can be purchased at tourist offices, Lawson convenience stores, some Japanese as being somewhat conserva-
is considered to be the leading association of
hotels and the venues themselves. Inquire at tourist information offices. tive, stodgy and eccentric in comparison
Japanese artists, in Japanese- and Western-
The Handy Guide and Handy Map published by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government come with tear-off coupons to other university students. Regardless
style painting, calligraphy, sculpture and craft
for discounted admission. of their disposition, standing among the
as art. The museum also boasts an excellent,
free art library. hallowed halls of Japans top university is
Finally, there is the Gallery of Hry-ji Treas- There is English signage throughout, a memorable experience, even if only to
ures, which displays masks, scrolls and gilt though its not as extensive as the Japa- SHITAMACHI MUSEUM Map p72 rub shoulders with the future Japanese
Buddhas from Hry-ji, the first Buddhist nese signage. An English-language audio elite.
temple in Japan. In order to protect the ar- guide is available (300). Note the different %3823-7451; 2-1 Ueno Ken, Tait-ku; adult/
tefacts, some of which are more than 1000 contact number for weekends and holidays. child/student 300/free/100; h9.30am-4.30pm; YUSHIMA TENJIN (YUSHIMA SHRINE)
years old, this wing may be shut when its bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Map p72
raining or humid. KOKURITSU SEIY BIJUTSUKAN Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Ken exit)
A fifth building, Hykeikan (Hykei Hall) (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WESTERN This museum re-creates life in the plebe- Yushima Tenmang; %3836-0753; 3-30-1
was built in 1909, with Western-style ar- ART) Map p72 ian quarters of Tokyo during the Meiji and Yushima, Bunky-ku; admission free; h8am-5pm;
chitecture that is reminiscent of a museum Taish periods through an exhibition of bChiyoda Line to Yushima (exit 1)
you might find in Paris. Used for special %3828-5131; www.nmwa.go.jp; 7-7 Ueno Ken, typical Shitamachi buildings. Take off your Across the way from Tokyo University,
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

exhibitions, the Hykeikan displays tempo-
rary exhibits, a good number of which are
in fact rotating exhibits from France and
other European countries.
KOKURITSU KAGAKU
HAKUBUTSUKAN (NATIONAL
SCIENCE MUSEUM) Map p72
splatter painting. All the big names are here,
%3822-0111 Mon-Fri, 3822-0114 Sat, Sun & holi-
days; www.kahaku.go.jp; 7-20 Ueno Ken, Tait-ku;
adult/child 500/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR
Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line
to Ueno (Ueno Ken exit)
This large, sprawling, multistorey museum
dedicated to the pursuit of science is
packed with delights, especially if youre
travelling with the little ones. Displays (eg
of the forest or animals of the savannah)
are imaginatively presented, some allowing
kids to climb up, down, around and even
within.
Other displays explain concepts of phys-
ics and mechanics by showing just how
mystical things like magnets do what they
do. Also, dont miss the giant, life-sized
replica of blue whale that soars over the
entrance to the museum. And of course,
there are dinosaurs, dinosaurs and more
dinosaurs
Tait-ku; adult/child 420/free, student 70-130;
h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, 9.30am-8pm Fri; bJR
Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line
to Ueno (Ueno Ken exit)
Designed by Le Corbusier in the late 1950s,
this museum has its roots in French impres-
sionism, but runs the gamut from medieval
Madonna & Child images to 20th-century
painted cards.
particularly Manet, Rodin, Mir and the
Dutch Masters. It also hosts wildly popular
temporary exhibits on loan from such stal-
warts as the Prado Museum in Madrid.
Much of the original collection was
amassed by Matsukata Kjiro (18651950),
president of a shipbuilding company and
later a politician. He would travel frequently
to Europe on business and bring back
treasures to inspire young, up-and-coming
Japanese painters. Some 400 of his works
were impounded in France during WWII,
and it was only after Matsukatas death that
they were allowed to be shipped to Japan.
TOKYO METROPOLITAN MUSEUM
OF ART Map p72
does hold historical interest. In 196869
%3823-6921; www.tobikan.jp; 8-36 Ueno Ken,
Tait-ku; admission free, charges for special exhibits
vary; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line
shoes and look inside an old tenement
house or around an old sweet shop while
soaking up the atmosphere of long-gone
Shitamachi. For some more detailed info,
pick up the English-language leaflets de-
scribing the various buildings in detail. On
weekends the museum stages kamishibai:
narratives told by performers using lovely
gold trim (the latest reconstruction was
TOKYO DAIGAKU (TOKYO
UNIVERSITY) Map p72
bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit 2) or Yushima (exit 1)
Most kids in Japan dream of gaining
admission to Tokyo University or simply
Tdai, Japans most prestigious institu-
tion of higher learning. Much like Harvard
and Oxbridge in the West, admission here
practically ensures later admission to the
halls of power in both business and gov-
ernment. With that in mind, high-school
students spend years studying at home and
in cram schools for Tdais rigorous admis-
sion exam.
The campus itself is not beautiful, but
Upstairs in the Morning Sun Room and the
Tdai became the centre of a national
crisis when students thrice took over the
main administrative building, Yasuda
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO
this particularly attractive Shint shrine
traces its lineage back to the 5th century.
In the 14th century, the spirit of a re-
nowned scholar was also enshrined here,
which leads to Yushima Tenjins current
popularity: it receives countless pilgrims
in search of academic success. Amid the
buildings with their painted accents and
in 1995), students hang messages writ-
ten on wooden tablets called ema, left
in hope that lofty exam scores will gain
hopeful high-school students admission to
the power generator across the street or
universities nationwide.
ASAKURA CHSO MUSEUM Map p72
%3841-4549; 7-8-10 Yanaka Tait-ku; adult/stu-
dent 400/150; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat &
Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori (north exit)
The primary work of sculptor Asakura
Fumio (18831964) consisted of realistic
sculptures of people and cats, but the real
attractions are the Japanese house, studio
and garden, designed by the artist himself.
Poised Mind Room are some excellent ink
scrolls and beautiful old tansu (wooden
chests).

74 75
lonelyplanet.com

NIPPORI TO NISHI-NIPPORI

NIPPORI TO NISHI-NIPPORI
Walking Tour
Spared from aerial bombing during WWII,
Nippori (near Ueno) is imbued with the slow-
ness of a former age. This nook of Tokyo is
filled with small temples, atmospheric old
cemeteries and little shops.
1 Tenno-ji ( The Heavens King Tem- Sendagi
ple belongs to the Tendai sect, one of the most
important Buddhist traditions in Japan. The
undisputed highlight of this small but tranquil
temple is the large Buddha image occupying the
central courtyard. Cast in 1690, and modelled
after the Great Buddha in Kamakura (p232), this
rather solemn statue has weathered the many
disasters of both old Edo and modern Tokyo.
2 Yanaka Cemetery ( Even if you
normally dont have a morbid bent, a stroll
through this historical and rather scenic cem-
etery (for more information see p99) is a great
way to catch a glimpse of old Edo. With camera
in hand, spend some time wandering the row
upon row of ancient tombstones while keep-
NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO
lonelyplanet.com
0 250 m
A SAK USA
0 0.2 miles
Eating p162; Shopping p138; Sleeping p208
END
Nishi- As the thriving core of the historic Shitamachi district, Asakusa (a-sock-sa) is where the spirit
Nippori
of old Edo proudly lives. The neighbourhood is centred on the magnificent temple of Sens-ji
Nishi-
Nippori
6 (also known as Asakusa Kannon-d), which was founded in the 7th century, not only before
Arakawa-ku Tokyo was Edo, but also before Edo was even a glimmer of an idea. As Edo rose, Asakusa
emerged as a bustling commercial centre and bawdy entertainment area, becoming the sturdy
START
beat of Shitamachis rowdy heart.
5 Nippori
Sadly, Asakusa has never fully recovered from the great earthquake of 1923, before it was
4
flattened once again by aerial bombing in the closing months of WWII. Although the brightest
1
3 lights have shifted elsewhere, this works to Asakusas advantage: it retains a close-to-the-ground
feeling of the common people not readily visible in other parts of town. Also, time spent on
the tranquil grounds of the rebuilt Sens-ji offers a glimpse of Lost Japan that is difficult to
2
Tait-ku experience outside places like Kyoto.
Yanaka This being Shitamachi, Asakusa is undeniably bustling and full of life, and lends itself per-
Uguisudani fectly to a directionless stroll. Here, more than any other district in Tokyo, youll be rewarded
-d
ri
Kot
otoi by closing the book, ignoring the map and just getting lost in the side streets and back alleys.
Up one street, you might find a charming ryokan (traditional inn) or a fastidious sembei (rice
cracker) maker, while down the next lane could be a marvellous public bath frequented by the
yakuza (Japanese mafia). Nevertheless, you should not be afraid to put the book down and do
WALK FACTS it yourself Asakusa is ripe for your own personal discovery.
Start Nippori Station (south exit) Asakusa is bounded on the east by the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) and by Ueno to the west.
End Nishi-Nippori Station All of the destinations in this section are easiest reached via Asakusa Station on the Ginza Line.
Distance 2km There is also an Asakusa Station on the Toei Asakusa Line, a slightly longer walk. From either
subway station, head away from the river along Kaminarimon-dri; the Kaminarimon Gate

ing an eye out for the rather territorial cats in
residence. After a circuit through the cemetery,
stroll through the adjacent residential neigh-
bourhood where youll find a handful of small
shops selling Buddhist religious objects.
3 Kannon-ji () Although theres no
shortage of small temples and shrines in Nip-
pori, Kannon-ji is distinguished by the fact
that its consecrated to Kannon, the Buddhist
goddess of mercy. Belonging to the Shingon
sect, Kannon-ji features a comforting repre-
sentation of the female incarnation of Buddha
as well as a small cemetery from where you
can steal views of the modern city beyond.
4 Sandara Kgei () Retail which somehow managed to survive the aerial
therapy of the Shitamachi variety can be yours
at this quaint little family-run basket store, which
sells a variety of traditional baskets as well as
rustic Japanese crafts. Although most of Tokyo
once brimmed with stores of this variety, sadly
theyve gone the way of glitz and glamour.
Time Three hours with stops
Fuel Stop Chalet Swiss Mini
5 Asakura Chso Museum (
) This cutesy-cool museum (p75) is home
%3842-0181; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admission
to a charming collection of Asakura Fumios
quirky sculptures (many of them cats) as well
as a marvellous Japanese garden behind the
main building. The entire house was designed
by the artist himself.
6 Chalet Swiss Mini ()
No walk through historic Shitamachi would
be complete without a stop at this historic
restaurant (for more information see p162),
bombing of WWII. True to its moniker (and
its Europhilic atmosphere), the Chalet Swiss
Mini serves up a great fondue.
After getting your energy back, continue
north past a few small temples until you reach
JR Nishi-Nippori station.
NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA
marks the entrance to Sens-ji. Through the gate, the lively Nakamise-dri shopping arcade
leads straight to the temple.
SENS-JI (SENSO TEMPLE) Map p86 be worn with a kimono. Along this route
are also stands that specialise in salty,
crunchy sembei and ningy-yaki (snacks
free; h24hr; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or in the shape of pagodas, fish and more),
made of pancake batter with a dollop of
Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)
Asakusas raison dtre, Sens-ji enshrines a anko (bean paste) baked inside.
Nakamise-dri leads north to another
golden statue of Kannon, the Goddess of
gate, Hz-mon, whose fierce guardians
Mercy, which was miraculously fished out of
you must pass to reach the main temple
the nearby Sumida-gawa by two fishermen
compound. To your left stands a 53m-high
in AD 628. In time, a structure was built to
five-storey pagoda, a 1973 reconstruction of
house the image, which has remained on
a pagoda built by Tokugawa Iemitsu. The
the spot through successive reconstructions
of the temple, including a complete postwar current structure is the second-highest
pagoda in Japan.
reconstruction following the aerial bomb-
ings at the end of WWII.
The temple precincts begin at the ma-
jestic Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), which
houses a pair of ferocious protective dei-
TRANSPORT: ASAKUSA
ties: Fjin, the god of wind, on the right; Train The Tbu Nikko Line terminates at Asakusa
and Raijin, the god of thunder, on the left. Station, offering the most convenient connections
Straight on through the gate is the lively to Nikko (p221).
shopping street Nakamise-dri, which was Metro The Ginza Line stops at Asakusa, just in front
recently renovated to include an attractive of Azuma-bashi. The Toei Asakusa Line also stops at
covered awning that keeps out the ele- a separate Asakusa Station nearby.
ments. Everything is sold here from tourist
trinkets like purses made from obi (kimono Waterbuses Water taxis arrive and depart regularly
sash) fabric to Edo-style crafts and wigs to from beneath Azuma-bashi.

76 85
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 400 m
ASAKUSA 0 0.2 miles ASAKUSA
To Sanya Hotel INFORMATION Sumida-gawa (river) cruise ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)
District (1km)
Imado Asakusa Post Office .... 1 B3 ...14 C3 Asakusa Engei Hall 27 B2

Ko k
Iriya Asakusa Tourist Information Taiko-Kan (Taiko Drum Museum)

usa
Center (JNTO) ..............................................15 B3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)

i-d
Kot Asakusa Kannon Sento
oto ............................... 2 C3 Tokyo Hongan-ji ......16 B3

ri
i-d
ri ...............................28 C2
Sensji Hospital ........... 3 C2
SHOPPING (pp13548) Jakotsu-yu ...........................29 B2

Yoshino-dri
SIGHTS (pp859) Bengara ...........................17 C2
Asahi Flame Building ..........................4 D3 Kanes ..................................18 C3 SLEEPING (pp20116)
36 Asakusa View Hotel
Asakusa Asakusa-jinja (Asakusa Temple) Maiduru ...........................19 B3
Kita- ......................30 B2
Ueno Nishi-
7 ............................................. 5 C2 Matsuya ....................................20 C3
Asakusa Ko t o Sumida- Capsule Hotel Riverside 

dri o-
toi-d Chingod-ji (Chingod Shrine) Miyamoto Unosuke Shoten
35 3 ken 31 C3

Hisag
r i
30 9 .................................................. 6 C2 ........................(see 15)
Matsugaya 5
K's House ...32 B4
Edo Shitamachi Dent Kgeikan Sat Sample ...21 B2

ri
28 Khaosan Guesthouse

Sushiya-d
21 13 (Traditional Crafts Museum)

ri
Ko

ich-d
Kapp 12 to ...33 C3
i

Asakusa
..................... 7 B2 EATING
shi-dr

to
ab ashih
on-d
8
Hanakawadoken i-b (pp14974)
ri as Ryokan Shigetsu ...........34 C3
Higashi- Demb-inAsakusa-10 Five-Storey Pagoda .............. 8 C2 Asakusa Imahan ...........22 B2

Umam
hi

i
Ueno Sakura Hostel ..35 C2

r

a

Nishi- ken
Kappab

27

-d
Hanayashiki Amusement Park Daikokuya ...........................23 C2

o
Asakusa

i
Sukeroku no Yado Sadachiyo

Nakamise-dr
22

Ed
Hanakawado

6
6
............................................ 9 C2 Daikokuya ........................(see 34)

No
Shin-N ...........................36 B1

y
37 akam 23 Hz-mon .............................10 C2 Komagata Doj ........24 C3

w
ise-d 17
Tokyo Ryokan ................37 B2

xp
29 ri Tbu Asakusa E
o
19 34 20 ut Kaminarimon Gate ..................11 C3 Namiki Yabu Soba
16 26 15
Kaminarimon Sh
Niten-mon ............................................12 C2 ...............................25 C3 TRANSPORT (pp23744)
ri

Asaku Kamina
Waterbus Pier 38 D3
ro -dri
sa-d rimo18
n-dri 11 Asakusa 14 Sens-ji ...................................13 C2 Sometaro .............................26 B3
sai-d

ri
2 Az 38
ori
Koku

dri

um Me t
a-
Chinyoko-d

1 31 ba
Orange-

sh
i
4
(p223), which burned at this location and describe the dozen or so bridges youll pass
was moved to Ueno for fire prevention. under en route.
o6
Tawaramachi 25

yN
33
Kom
ag
Ex
pw The gates weathered wooden pillars,
NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA
ata
Tait-ku -b plastered with votive papers left by Shint DEMB-IN (DEMBO GARDEN)
uto

Komogata as Honjo-
h i
pilgrims, and its enormous red paper
Sh

Azumabashi
Map p86
wa)

24

Mitsume-dri
lantern certainly merit a stop on your way
-ga

Kotobuki

ida

Kasuga- out of the compound. Remarkably, Niten-

%3842-0181; admission free; bGinza Line to
Sum

dri
Sumida-ku mon is the only structure in the temple
er (

Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa

precincts to have survived Asakusas vari-
Riv

Kuramae (exit A5)

ida

ous disasters. To the left of the temple precinct lies

Sum

32
Kuramae
Higashi- Demb-in, a garden that adjoins the resi-
komagata SUMIDA-GAWA (RIVER) CRUISE dence of the chief priest of Sens-ji. The
Kuramae See Sumida
River Map Map p86 grounds are thought to have been de-
p126
signed sometime in the late 18th century to
Suij Bus; %0120-977-311; www.suijobus.co.jp; resemble those of Katsura-rikyu, the sprawl-
The temple grounds resound with cam- The proximity of this Shint shrine, behind bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 5), Toei Asakusa Line ing imperial villa in Kyoto. Demb-in is not
eras and voices with accents from across the Sens-ji and to the right, testifies to the to Asakusa (exit A5) for Azuma-bashi Pier usually open to the public, but if youd like
country and around the world. The Kannon comfortable coexistence of Japans two Though the heavily developed Sumida- to take a peek at the 12,000-sq-metre area,
image (a tiny 6cm) is cloistered within, but major religions. Asakusa-jinja was built in gawa is no longer a quaint river, it is still whose pond is reputedly shaped like the
despite its seclusion, a steady stream of wor- honour of the brothers who discovered the famous for its 12 bridges, and a trip via Chinese character for heart, call ahead to
shippers makes its way to the temple, where Kannon statue and is renowned as a fine waterbus is an excellent way to survey
they cast coins, pray and bow in a gesture of example of an architectural style called the main office, which is to the left of the
Tokyos old geography. five-storey pagoda.
respect. In front of the temple, smoke winds gongen-zukuri. Its also the site of one of The Suij Bus departs from a pier lo-
its way up from a huge incense cauldron Tokyos most important festivals, the Sanja cated by Asakusas Azuma-bashi for the
around which supplicants stand wafting the Matsuri (p18), a three-day extravaganza of CHINGOD-JI (CHINGODO SHRINE)
stately garden Hama Riky Onshi-teien
smoke and its scent to their bodies and over costumed parades, about 100 lurching Map p86
(p66; 620, 35 minutes) and Hinode Pier
their heads to ensure good health. mikoshi (portable shrines) and stripped- (660, five minutes further). From Hinode
to-the-waist yakuza sporting remarkable Pier you can continue on the journey to Admission free; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or
ASAKUSA-JINJA (ASAKUSA TEMPLE) tattoos. Odaiba Marine Park (400, 20 minutes) Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)
Map p86 Niten-mon gate, which marks one of the or the Museum of Maritime Science (p131; This odd, peaceful little shrine on the
entryways to Asakusa-jinja, was erected in 520, 25 minutes). banks of Demb-in pays tribute to tanuki
Asakusa Kannon-d; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Tait-ku; 1618 as a private entrance to the temple Boats leave once or twice per hour be- (raccoon dogs who figure in Japanese
bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa for the Tokugawa shgun. The gate was tween 9.45am and 6.30pm (until 7.10pm on myth as mystical shape-shifters and merry
Line to Asakusa (exit A5) built here at the same time as Tsh-g Saturday and Sunday), and English leaflets pranksters). Tanuki are normally depicted
86 87
lonelyplanet.com

with enormous testicles on which they can KAPPABASHI-DRI (KAPPABASHI

lonelyplanet.com
fly. Since (needless to say) they make for STREET) Map p86 TOKYOS RED LIGHTS
great subject matter, they frequently pop
up in Japanese wood-cuts like Utagawa In early Edo times, Asakusa was a halfway stop between the Yamanote and the pleasure quarters of the Yoshiwara, but
bGinza Line to Tawramachi (exit 3) in time the area emerged as a pleasure quarter in its own right. Originally starting out as the hub of kabuki theatre, that
Kuniyoshis The Seven Wonders of the Clown- A 10-minute walk west of Sens-ji, Kappa-
ing Raccoon, in which the tanuki is shown most beloved of Edo entertainments, the resulting fairground atmosphere harboured a wealth of decidedly more secular
bashi-dri is the countrys largest wholesale entertainment. In time, beneath in the very shadow of Sens-ji, Asakusa became known as the principal destination for
cheerily dancing his way round a geisha kitchenware and restaurant-supply district.
house. those in search of the pleasures of the flesh.
Gourmet accessories include colourful, pat- When Japan ended its isolation with the Meiji Restoration, it was in Asakusa that the first cinemas, music halls and
Western operas appeared. It was also in Asakusa that another Western export the striptease first found a Japanese
audience. Surprisingly, striptease almost failed to catch on due to the popularity of a rival form of risqu entertainment,
TEMPLE & SHRINE ETIQUETTE namely female sword fighting (to modern ears, the idea of scantily clad jousting females might sound a bit strange, but
Visitors to Tokyo are often nervous about committing some dreadful faux pas at a temple or shrine. Relax as with at the time it was the height of erotic entertainment). However, following the inspired introduction of a bubble-bath
most other aspects of their lives, the Japanese are not particularly rigid in these matters and certainly wouldnt judge show, the pursuit of the carnal became a permanent fixture of the Asakusa spirit.
a foreign visitor for not adhering to ritual. Today, you can still see girlie-show venues at the fringes of central Asakusa.
If photography is forbidden at a shrine, it will be posted as such; otherwise, it is permitted and you should simply
use your discretion when taking pictures so as not to interfere with other visitors. terned noren (split doorway curtains), pots though only about 200 are available at
At both shrines and temples, you can buy amulets called omamori, for traffic safety, academic success, good health, and pans, restaurant signage, tableware any one time in the splendidly interactive
safe pregnancy and more, usually for 300 to 500. Omamori run the gamut from minimalist paper or wooden charms and a number of bizarre Japanese kitchen drum exhibit. You have free rein to touch
to small but elaborate brocade bags embroidered with the name of the shrine or temple and your wish. Another gadgets to make you go hmmm? or play any instrument without a mark
popular memento is shin-ch (pilgrimage books; around 1000), which are blank fanfold books; purchase one at the The key drawcard for overseas visitors is those with a blue dot should be handled
first shrine or temple you visit, and then have it inscribed at each subsequent shrine or temple (around 300), usually the plastic models of food, such as you see carefully, while a red dot means off limits.
with lovely calligraphy. in restaurant windows throughout Tokyo. If you are inspired by the display, you can
Whether you want steak and chips, a lurid buy a Japanese-style drum and lots of
Shint Shrines pizza, a bowl of rmen or a plate of spa- other festival products at Miyamoto Uno-
Just past the torii (gate) at most larger Shint shrines is a chzuya (trough of water) with long-handled ladles perched ghetti bolognaise complete with an upright suke Shoten (p138).
NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA
on a hishaku (rack) above. This water can be used to purify yourself before entering the sacred precincts. Some Japanese fork, youll find it here.
forego this ritual and head directly for the main hall. The traditional way to purify oneself is to take a ladle, fill it with
fresh water from the tap, pour some over one hand, transfer the ladle and pour water over the other hand, then pour a EDO SHITAMACHI DENT KGEIKAN SHITAMACHI
little water into a cupped hand, rinse your mouth and spit the water out. Make sure that any water you have used for (TRADITIONAL CRAFTS MUSEUM) Walking Tour
washing or rinsing goes on to the ground beside the trough (not into the trough, which would make it impure). Map p86 If you squint a little, Shitamachi, or the
Once you have purified yourself, head to the haiden (hall of worship), which sits in front of the honden (main hall) Low City youll see before you, still looks
enshrining the kami (god or gods) of the shrine. Here youll often find a thick rope hanging from a gong, in front of which is %3842-1990; 2-22-13 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admis- something like the settings depicted in the
an offerings box. Toss in a coin, ring the gong by pulling on the rope (to summon the deity), bow twice, place your hands in sion free; h10am-8pm; bGinza Line to Asakusa wood-block prints famously produced here
the prayer position to pray silently, clap twice, bow once more and then back away. Some Japanese believe that a 5 coin is (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) in Edo times. Luckily, the area retains much
the luckiest offering at a temple or shrine (the word for 5, go-en, is a homonym for fate), and that the blessing engendered Gallery Takumi, as this hall is also known, of its traditional working-class feel sort
by the offering of a 10 coin will come in the future (since 10 can be pronounced t in Japanese, which also means far). is a great place to view dozens of hand- of a rough, gruff, friendly spirit distinctly
Many shrines sell ema (wooden votive plaques), on which you can write a wish before hanging it on a rack for the made crafts that still flourish in the heart of different from other zones of reinvention-
purpose. Your wish does not have to be in Japanese. Shitamachi. The gallery on the 2nd floor is addicted Tokyo.
crammed with a rotating selection of works
by neighbourhood artists: fans, lanterns, 1 Chingod-ji () Located on the
Buddhist Temples knives, brushes, gold leaf, precision wood- ground of Sens-ji (p85), this small temple
Unless the temple contains a shrine, you will not have to purify yourself before entry. The place of worship in a temple working and glass just for starters. Craft is an interesting oddity. Founded in 1883,
is in the hond, which usually contains a Buddhist altar and one or more Buddha images. The standard practice is to toss demonstrations take place most Saturdays it was constructed for the tanuki (raccoon
some change into the offering box, which sits in front of the altar, step back, place your hands together, pray and then and Sundays around noon. If anything you dogs) living in the Sens-ji precincts. These
bow to the altar before backing away. Most temples sell omikuji (fortunes written on little slips of paper). These usually see strikes your interest, staff can direct you beasts, which local lore has as relentless
cost 100. Either pay an attendant or place the money in an honour-system box. Fortunes are dispensed randomly from to artisans or shops selling their work. shape shifters and hedonists, are sculptur-
a special box containing sticks with different numbers written on their ends. Shake the box until one stick pops out of
ally depicted with enormous testicles. As you
a hole in the boxs top. Show this to the attendant and you will be given a fortune matching the number on the stick
TAIKO-KAN (TAIKO DRUM MUSEUM) enter, also notice the jiz statues, protectors
(remember to return the stick to the box!). This will be written in Japanese under one of four general headings: dai-kichi
Map p86 to travellers and children. There are often
(big luck), kichi (luck), sho-kichi (small luck) and ky (bad luck). Kichi is considered best your luck is good, but getting
stalls set up along the stretch of road outside
better whereas dai-kichi implies that its great now but otherwise all downhill. Sho-kichi is moderately grim and ky
%3842-5622; 2-1-1 Nishi Asakusa, Tait-ku; adult/ the temple precincts. Along with workaday
is the worst. Some fortunes are translated into English, or you can ask someone on the temple grounds to read your
child 300/150; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun; bGinza clothing and shoes, you can find interesting
fortune for you. Once youve read it, fold the fortune and tie it to a nearby tree branch so that the wind can disperse
Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3) festival accessories here, including the obliga-
the bad luck; theres always a tree nearby festooned with the white fortunes, or sometimes theres a clothesline-type
More than 600 drums make up this col- tory tanuki cell phone strap. See p87 for more
contraption for the same purpose.
lection, gathered from around the world, information.

88 89
lonelyplanet.com

3 Asakusa Engei Hall ()

lonelyplanet.com
0 200 m
SHITAMACHI 0 0.1 miles
The centrepiece of Asakusas old cinema district AK A SAK A
is this performance hall (for more informa-
Asakusa
tion see p187), where rakugo (performances of Eating p163; Sleeping p210
Nishi-
Asakusa stand-up comedy or long tales) are still held During the Meiji era, Akasaka was the district of Tokyo most densely populated by geisha. These

2 today. Unfortunately, the district itself is a little female companions, who were highly trained artists and masters of conversation, continued to
down-at-heel nowadays, and the few remaining occupy the area during both world wars. During the American occupation, Akasakas geisha

ri
Sushiya-d
cinemas dont screen much besides Japanese houses served as the settings for notorious backroom deals that jumpstarted the economy,
Kapp Asakusa
ri

ab sealed political alliances and shaped the modern nation of Japan.

ashi-d

ashih
pornography. However, as you wander through

i
on-d

ich-dr
6 ri Demb-

Nishi- Asakusa 3
in Asakusa-
ken this historic area, consider that this was once the Although Tokyos geisha are sadly no more, Akasaka remains as Tokyos centre of both
Kappab

U mam
Asakusa Imahan
liveliest of Tokyos entertainment districts and explicit and exclusive power. With the National Diet Building just a few minutes walk away

Shin-
Nak the preferred haunt of everyone from prosti- in the Nagatach area, Akasaka fills with bureaucrats, politicians and high-powered business-
a m i s e-
dri
tutes and gangsters to novelists and artisans. men at the end of the day. The geisha houses may be long gone, but Akasakas backstreets and

Metro-dri
5 Kaminarimon

late-night bars still echo political murmurings and business deals.
ri

Kamina
4 Kaminarimon-dri The major Politics aside, Akasaka is also home to Hie-jinja (below), which comes alive in the spring
sai-d

rimon-d
4 ri
Asakusa
street running through Asakusa is lined with when the cherry blossoms complement its row of rust-red torii, and in autumn when children
Koku

ri

START
d

traditional Japanese restaurants, any of which in traditional costumes arrive for Shichi-go-san (p19). One of Tokyos most exuberant matsuri
Orange-

Tawaramachi END are perfect for a relaxing lunch break. Although
theres no shortage of delicious spots in this
stretch of town, our recommendation is Asakusa
Imahan (for more information see p162), a historic
WALK FACTS shabu-shabu restaurant where you can easily
spend an hour or so swishing thinly sliced cuts
Start Asakusa subway station (exit 6)
of raw meat in a boiling pot filled with stock.
End Tawaramachi subway station
Distance 2km 5 Tokyo Hongan-ji () If youre HIE-JINJA (HIE SHRINE) Map p92
NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA
takes place here, offering an excellent chance to see one of the rowdy, colourful processions
of mikoshi.
Akasaka is situated southwest of the Imperial Palace, due north of Roppongi and west of
Aoyama. The neighbourhood is centred on Hie-jinja, though the pull of the National Diet
Building to the shrines east is strong. Nearby is a cadre of luxury hotels, most notably the
Hotel New tani (see p59 and p205), which is known for its splendid garden and intimate art
gallery.
NATIONAL DIET BUILDING Map p92

Time Two hours looking to escape the tourist crowds and ex-
plore one of Asakusas little-known corners,
Fuel Stop Asakusa Imahan (p162)
this atmospheric but rather unknown temple
complex is the perfect antidote to the sensory
2 Hanayashiki Amusement Park ( overload of Sens-ji.
) This nostalgia-inducing amuse-
ment park (%3842-8780; 2-28-1 Asakusa; adult/child 6 Kappabashi-dri () To-
900/400;h10.30am-6pm Wed-Mon), Tokyos old- kyos wholesale restaurant supplies area (for
est, dates back to 1853, and is an absolute more information see p88) is shop upon shop
delight for the young ones. If youre having selling plastic food models, bamboo cooking
trouble finding the entrance, just listen for the utensils, batik cushions and even the aka-
delighted shrieking of young children, as well chchin (red lanterns) that light the back alleys
as the rollercoaster creaking and whooshing of Tokyo by night. Go one see if you can get
along its aging wooden tracks. a good deal on a plastic sushi model!
%3581-2471; www.hiejinja.net/eindex.htm;
2-10-5 Nagatach, Chiyoda-ku; admission free;
bGinza or Namboku Line to Tameike-Sann
(exit 5 or 7)
This Shint shrine traces its roots to the
sacred Mt Hiei, northeast of Kyoto, and it Kokkai-gijidmae (exit 1)
has been the protector shrine of Edo Castle
since it was first built in 1478. The present
site dates from 1659, though the shrine was
destroyed in the 1945 bombings and later
rebuilt in 1967.
These days, the shrine is chiefly known
as the host of one of Tokyos three liveli-
est matsuri, Sann-sai (p18; 15 June). Given
the shrines protector status, the festival
was regularly attended by the shgun, and
even now the route of the festivals mikoshi
terminates at the Imperial Palace.
When the festivals not on, the shrine
makes for a colourful yet quiet break. A
highlight is the walk up through a tun-
nel of orange torii, especially dramatic on
a sunny day. The shrine is also great for a
visit when the cherry blossoms are out or
the leaves are changing.
Oh, and if youre wondering about the
carved monkey clutching one of her young,
she is emblematic of the shrines ability
to offer protection against the threat of a
miscarriage.
NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA
%3581-3111; www.sangiin.go.jp; 1-7-1
Nagatach, Chiyoda-ku; h8am-5pm Mon-
Fri, closed national holidays; bYrakuch,
Hanzmon or Namboku Line to Nagatach
(exit 1), or Marunouchi or Chiyoda Line to
Built on a site once inhabited by feudal
lords, the National Diet was completed in
1936 with its landmark pyramid-shaped
dome. The chambers the Shgi-in or
House of Representatives (the Upper
House) and the Sangi-in or House of
Councillors (the Lower House) have
been the scene of fist fights and wrestling
matches over the occasional hot-button
issue. Recently things have been a bit
more tame, though you can still take in
the occasional hot-tempered plenary
session.
Free 60-minute tours (%5521-7445) of the
Sangi-in are available when the Diet is not
in session, taking in the public gallery, the
TRANSPORT: AKASAKA
Metro The Yrakuch, Hanzmon, Namboku,
Chiyoda, Marunouchi and Ginza Lines all converge
in the Akasaka area, including Nagatach, Akasaka,
Akasaka-Mitsuke and Tameike-Sann Stations.

90 91
lonelyplanet.com

emperors room (from where he addresses

lonelyplanet.com
Imperial

(Hibiya Park)
Palace

Sakuradamon
AKASAKA

Plaza

Hibiya-ken

Shimbashi
Uchisaiwaich

0.3 miles the Diet at the start of each session) and
ri

Outer Garden

ri

Uchisaiwaich

500 m
-d

d
ori

ori INFORMATION

Imperial

ai-
hib a-d
central hall (featuring a floor mosaic of a

Palace
Uc iy

kk
Hib
Akasaka Post Office ........................................1 D3

Ko
million pieces of marble and murals depict-

Imperial

ri
Palace

Kasumigaseki
American Embassy .................................2 E4

i-d
Shimo-
dkan
Moat
Canadian Embassy ..................................... 3 B3 ing the four seasons). For the tours, it is

r
obo
e
best not to arrive before 9am to avoid the

Lin
Citibank ..........................................................4 D2

Sot
largest tour groups. And unless youre here

da
Koyasu Drug Store Hotel kura

iyo
i

Toranomon
dr
Imperial
Gardens
Fukiage

go-
Imperial
Gardens
Fukiage ..............(see 23) for a protest, leave your red headbands,

Kami-
dkan

Ch
Moat
Ata
Roppongi Post Office ................................5 D4 which are de rigueur among demonstrators,

at
Mo
Area not
open to or
i in your suitcase.

Kasumigaseki
public
See Imperial Palace

SIGHTS (pp913)

19
-b

da

(Japanese Style)
& Marunouchi

Map pp523

ra

Chiyoda-ku

Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) ...........................................6 D3

Kokkaimae
(Western Style)
ku ri

0
0

Sa
a-d

Garden
Kokkaimae
urad National Diet Building ....................................7 E2 SGETSU KAIKAN Map p92

Garden
i
r Sak
-d
gi Sgetsu Kaikan ..................................................... 8 C3

Toranomon
on

Hospital
pp
%3408-1126; www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index

Ro
SHOPPING (pp13548)

Kokkai-gijidmae
Nogi-jinja Flea Market .html; Sgetsu Kaikan Bldg, 7-2-21 Akasaka,

Toranomon
r i
Diet Library

r i -d ........................................... 9 B4 Minato-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-

ibo
No 4 National

7
Uc h

23
8pm Fri; bGinza, Hanzmon or Toei edo Line to
(Kokuritsu

Supreme
National

Tameike-sann
Theatre

EATING (pp14974)
Gekij)

Court
dri

Aoyama-itchme (exit 4)

2
Asterix ......................................................10 C4
Shinjuku-

Daidaiya ......................................................................... 11 D2 Sgetsu is one of Japans leading schools

Expwy

Delhi ........................................................................... 12 D3 of avant-garde ikebana offering classes in

Lotus Palace............................................................................ 13 D3
Shuto
Hanzmon

English (p196). Even if you have no interest

Hirakawach

Nagatach

20

17 Hills
Ark

Rakutei ........................................................................... 14 D4 in flower arranging, its worth a peek in

Nagatach
See Central
Tokyo Map

Yamaya ....................................................... 15 D3
6

for the building (1977) designed by Tange

See Roppongi
Akasaka
p56

Map pp967

ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590) Kenz and the giant, climbable piece of
18
a-d 1
ri

installation art that occupies the lobby, by

Akasaka-

B-Flat ............................................................ 16 D4
22
mitsuke

13
Kioi-ch

ri
sak

i-d
12

ach Suntory Hall ..................................... 17 D4 the revered Japanese-American sculptor

Aka

5
16
Tam

14
NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA

NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA
Kjimachi

Isamu Noguchi.
Kjimachi

15

DRINKING (pp17590)
11
4

i
i-dr Hobgoblin .................................................. 18 D3
Akasaka

tsug
Hito
10

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)

Benkei-
Moat
bori

Akasaka-

Sgetsu Kaikan ...................................................(see 8)

dri

World Union of Karate-d Organisation ........................ 19 E4

Roppongi
Minato-ku

SLEEPING (pp20116)

ANA Intercontinental Tokyo ANA

ntique St)

..................... 20 D4
Asia Center of Japan .....................................21 B4
wy
ri (A

Exp Hotel Avanshell Akasaka

to
Area not

Shu
open to

8
public

-d

 .......................................... 22 D3
Yotsuya

otto

Hotel kura ........................................... 23 E4

3

K
9
Residence

21
Akasaka
Imperial

Nogizaka
Aoyama-
itchme

ri
hi-d
as
hig

Aoyama Rei-en
n-

Cemetery)

(Aoyama

ie
Ga
JR Shinanomachi

ri

i ri
mik
a-d

-Na i-d
Ich
yam
Prince Chichibu

h
Rugby Stadium

-nis
AKASAKA

Memorial

Ao

Gaien
Jing
gaien

Aoyama Map p110

Gaienmae

Minami-
Shibuya-ku

Aoyama

See Harajuku &

Jing Kyio
Stadium)
(Jing
National
Stadium

92 93
lonelyplanet.com

performances. Just beyond, the brand-name draw your eyes to the lofty heights of the

lonelyplanet.com
RO PP O N G I shops ascending Keyakizaka are nothing towers above.
short of marvels of modern design. Aside from the myriad opportunities
Eating p164; Shopping p139; Sleeping p211 for parting with serious cash while simul-
Since the end of WWII, Roppongi has garnered a notorious reputation as a den of sin. A taneously buying status, the highlight of
MORI ART MUSEUM Map pp967
popular haunt for American soldiers on leave, wet-behind-the-ears foreigners fresh off the the complex is undoubtedly Hinokicho-ken.
plane, Chinese prostitutes, Russian strippers, Nigerian bouncers and plenty of hungry women
%5777-8600; www.mori.art.museum; Mori Formerly a private garden attached to the
and hungrier men on the prowl, Roppongi is the unabashed hedonism capital of Tokyo. Most Azabu villa residence of the Mori family,
self-respecting Tokyoites and long-term foreign residents wont go near the place, but its hard Tower, Roppongi 6-chme; admission varies;
h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm Tue; a member of the Hagi Clan during the
to deny that a good time is usually had by all who do. Dancing and flirting until the wee hours Edo Period, Hinokicho was reopened as
of the morning is the standard course of action in Roppongi, as is spending big, drinking hard bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 1c)
Perched on the 52nd and 53rd floors of a public park for the benefit of visitors
and forgetting most of the night. to Tokyo Midtown. Adjacent to the park
Mori Tower in the Roppongi Hills complex,
Ten, 20 or 50 years ago, any Tokyoite could tell you exactly what you could do during the is the aptly named Midtown Garden, which
the high ceilings, broad views and the-
day in Roppongi: nothing. Yet in 2003, everything changed following the opening of Roppongi was the former site of the Japan Self
matic programmes of this new museum
Hills, a masterfully designed shopping/dining/office/residential/hotel/gallery/museum complex. Defense Agency, though today its a cherry
have somehow managed to live up to all
A visually stunning project aimed at redefining the cultural landscape of the neighbourhood, treelined grassy space thats perfect for a
the hype. Exhibits are consistently beauti-
Roppongi Hills is now regarded as one of the capitals principal landmarks. Though the complex picnic. Tokyo Midtown is also home to the
fully presented and run the gamut from
was given a run for its money in 2007 with the opening of Tokyo Midtown (opposite), an equally Suntory Museum of Art (below), which provides a
Bill Viola and Sugimoto Hiroshi to the
impressive feat of urban architecture. nice respite from all the rampant consum-
Da Vinci Codex and the silver of Georg
Together, both complexes are seeking to transform Roppongi from a sleazy pleasure quarter into erism about, as well as the glamorous Grand
Jensen.
a high-class neighbourhood with all the bourgeois trimmings. And so far its working real estate Hyatt Tokyo (p211).
Admission to the museum includes Tokyo
prices are on the rise, well-to-do men and women are changing addresses and high-class boutiques,
bars and restaurants are popping up all over the neighbourhood. In the meantime, the posh cafs City View (%6406-6652; www.tokyocityview.com;
adult/child/student 1500/500/1000 if purchased sepa- SUNTORY MUSEUM OF ART Map pp967
lining the streets near Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown are a world away from the liquor-soaked
clubs in nearby Roppongi Crossing, though this may change in the years to come. rately; h9am-1am), on the 52nd floor. There
Roppongi lies between Aoyama and Harajuku to the west and Ginza and Shiodome to the are observatories atop other tall buildings %3479-8600; www.mori.art.museum; Tokyo
east, while to the north it eventually turns into stately Akasaka. The neighbourhood is centred in town, but none can match Roppongi Midtown, Minato-ku; admission varies; h10am-
NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

on Roppongi Crossing (Roppongi ksaten), where Roppongi-dri meets Gaien-highashi-dri in
the shadow of the expressway. Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown lies west along Roppongi-
dri (if youre facing Almond, head right).
ROPPONGI HILLS Map pp967
%6406-6000; Roppongi 6-chme; admission free;
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 1c)
Opened in 2003 to an incredible amount
of fanfare, Roppongi Hills was the dream
of real-estate developer Mori Minoru, who
long envisaged a transformation of Rop-
pongi. Since then, an incredible amount of
lofty praise has been vaulted at the com-
plex, which is arguably the most architec-
turally arresting sight in Tokyo. Simply put,
Roppongi Hills is a feast for the eyes, en-
hanced by public art such as Louise Bour-
geoiss giant, spiny alfresco spider called
Maman and the benches-cum-sculptures
on Keyakizaka Street.
With expertly drawn lines of steel and
glass, expansive tree-lined public spaces
and a healthy smattering of the citys top
bars, restaurants and shops, Roppongi Hills
stands as a testament to a new concept in
urban planning. Rather than building larger
and taller residential towers, it is argued
developers should instead focus on useable
space that can better serve the community.
Hills for its central location and undeniable
And truth be told, although most Tokyoites
cant even dream about owning a high-rise
apartment at the citys most prestigious
address, Roppongi Hills has become a
destination in its own right.
The centrepiece of the complex is the
54-storey Mori Tower, which is home to
some of the worlds leading companies as
well as the Mori Art Museum and Tokyo City
View (opposite). At the base of the tower are
the marvellous Grand Hyatt Tokyo (p211) and
some 200 shopping, drinking and dining
establishments including internationally
known brands and chefs (eg Jol Robu-
chon). On the plaza below, the TV Asashi
network headquarters adjoins an ancient
samurai garden and the Roppongi Hills
Arena, where you can often catch outdoor
TRANSPORT: ROPPONGI
Metro The Hibiya and Toei edo Lines both run
through Roppongi, but the Hibiya Line drops you
closer to Roppongi Crossing, Roppongis main
intersection.
6pm Sun-Mon, 10am-8pm Wed-Sat; bHibiya or
cool factor.
The observatory is open longer than the
museum. If youre visiting the museum,
you also get admission to the observatory;
otherwise you have to purchase a separate
admission. Note that the museum is subject
to closure between exhibitions, but Tokyo
City View is open daily.
TOKYO MIDTOWN Map pp967
%3423-8000; Minato-ku; admission free;
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 8)
Following the impressive lead of Rop-
pongi Hills, Tokyo Midtown wowed the
legions of crowds who arrived on opening
day in 2007. A composite urban district
of ultramodern buildings surrounding a
historic Japanese garden, Tokyo Midtown
is perhaps the only project to surface in
recent years that can give Roppongi Hills
a run for its money. Following the same
design and urban planning lines that made
Roppongi Hills so successful, the Tokyo
Midtown complex brims with sophisticated
bars, restaurants, shops, art galleries, hotels
and leafy public spaces. Escalators ascend
alongside manmade waterfalls of rock and
glass, while soaring planters full of bamboo
NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI
Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 8)
Since its original opening in 1961, the Sun-
tory Museum of Art has always subscribed
to the underlying philosophy of Lifestyle
Art. Adhering to this mantra, rotating
exhibits focus on Japanese ceramics, lac-
querware, glass dyeing, weaving and other
facets of lifestyle art as opposed to more
traditional paintings and sculpture. One of
the more innovative museums in the city,
the Suntory Museum is likely to thrive in its
brand new location at the heart of Tokyo
Midtown. Note that the museum is subject
to closure between exhibitions.
TOKYO TOWER Map pp967
%3433-5111; www.tokyotower.co.jp/english;
4-2-8 Shiba-ken, Minato-ku; adult/child 820/460;
hobservation platforms 9am-10pm; bToei
edo Line to Akabanebashi (Akabanebashi exit)
Tokyo Tower, which currently serves as the
citys principal radio and TV broadcasting
tower, proudly bills itself as the worlds
highest self-supporting steel tower, and the
tallest man-made structure in Japan. How-
ever, with the planned 2011 opening of the
Sumida Tower in Asakusa, its likely that
Tokyo Towers days of fame are numbered.

94 95
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
ROPPONGI 0 0.3 miles
Toranomon

Akasaka Uchisaiwaich

e
Lin
See Akasaka Toranomon
Hospital

p
Map p92

o
Lo
y

ri
pw

- d
Ex
Toranomon

rada
Gaien

to
-nish

hu
i- Nogizaka S Ark

u
Sak
d Hills
ri Aoyama Rei-en
(Aoyama 17 Shimbashi
See Harajuku & Cemetery)
Aoyama Map p110 39 18
29
Tokyo
32 Midtown
23 20
21
Minami- 52
Aoyama Roppongi
Roppongi-

Atago-dri
ri 63
d itchme
Roppongi g i-
on
47 o pp
R

ri
62
Aoyama- 13 Roppongi

-d
i 58
ken ji k 50 Crossing
Se 11 44 Nishi-shimbashi
57
53
35 1 3 29
60
36 Kamiyach
49 56 10
41
40 46 4
45
Roppongi 31
e 16 33 Gai
48 54 Lin 55 Hills 26 en-
oop hi g
3L ash Onarimon
y No 19 i-d
Kot 12 Expw Roppongi ri
t- o
dor
i S h ut 6-chme 61
Nishi- 30 51 TV 8
Azabudai
Roppongi-dri 43 42 Azabu 38 22 Asahi

Ke y a kizaka
Shiba Ken

a
34 Minato-ku

ak
15
i
Gaien-nishi-dri

i-dr

ri
Sak
Torii-z
Azabu

Hibiya-do
-
NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI
24

ura
A sa h

Jb

da-
an - d
Moto- Azabu-

dr
TV

Jban
r
Azabu Higashi-

i
i
Azabu 25
59
Azabu- Daimon
jban
Shiba-
ken
Minato-ku Shiba
27
Daimon
Azabu-jban Akabanebashi
9 S h u t o Ex p
37 wy Loop Lin
e
a
ak
i-z

Minami-
am

See Ebisu, Azabu

Kuray

Daikanyama Shibaken See Tsukiji

& Meguro & Shiodome
Map p102 Hiro-o Map p65

Arisugawa
Memorial 14
Park 2

Hir

6

7
Shib
uya-
gaw
ri

a
i-d

5
nish
en-
Gai

Tamachi

Mita

96 97
lonelyplanet.com

The giant bell (1673; 15 tonnes) is con-

lonelyplanet.com
ROPPONGI design at Living Motif (%3587-2784, 1st & 2nd
INFORMATION
sidered one of the Great Three Bells of fl), fabulously innovative textiles at Nuno
Roppongi Hills .....22 C3 Club 3.2.8 .............................42 B3
Almond ...........................1 D2 Suntory Museum of Art Muse .................................43 B3 the Edo period. On the temple grounds (%3582-7997; www.nuno.com; B1 fl) and flashy
Australian Embassy ......................23 C2 New Lex Edo there is a large collection of statues of the duds and accessories for your inner auto
..................2 E5 Tokyo City View ....... 44 D2 Bodhisattva jiz, said to be a guide during mechanic at Le Garage (%3587-2785; 1st fl). Also
Citibank ......................3 D2 ...................(see 19) Pasela Karaoke .................. 45 D2 the transmigration of the soul (see p101 for see p139.
Dutch Embassy ....4 F2 Tokyo Tower ............. 24 F3 Salsa Caribe ......... 46 D2 more details).
French Embassy Wax Museum..................................(see 24) Salsa Sudada ...47 C2
................................5 B6 Zj-ji (Zj Temple) ...... 25 G3 Space Lab Yellow MUSE TOMO Map pp967
German Embassy .... 6 B5 ............48 B3 NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO
Italian Embassy ....7 F5 SHOPPING (pp13548) Sweet Basil 139 (Stb139) Map pp967
Japanese Red Cross Language Axis .......................... 26 E3 139 ................. 49 D2 %5733-5311; 4-1-35 Toranomon, Minato-ku;
Service Volunteers Vanilla ..............................50 C2
NACT; %6812-9900; www.nact.jp; 7-22-1 Rop- adult 1300, student 500-800; h11am-6pm Tue-
Blue & White 27 D4
....................................8 H3 Don Quixote ........ 28 D2 Virgin Toho Cinemas Roppongi pongi, Minato-ku; admission varies; h10am-6pm Sun; bHibiya Line to Kamiyach (exit 4b)
Japanese Red Cross Medical Japan Sword ................. 29 G1 Hills TOHO Sat-Mon & Wed-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri; bChiyoda This marvellous museum may be one of To-
Centre Muji ............................................30 C3 ............51 C3 Line to Nogizaka (exit 6) kyos most elegant and tasteful. It is named
....... 9 B4 Roppongi Antique Fair This architectural marvel designed by
Manga Hiroba ............. 10 E2 .. 31 D2 DRINKING (pp17590) for Kikuchi Tomo, whose collection of con-
Kish Kurokawa, which opened in 2007 as
Mizuho Bank ......... 11 D2 Roppongi Hills ..(see 22)
A971 .....................................................52 C2 temporary Japanese ceramics wowed them
National Azabu Supermarket Agave ................................... 53 D2 Japans fifth national-class museum, has
Tokyo Midtown in Washington and London before finally
Pharmacy .(see 37) BuL-Lets ..........................54 C3 no permanent collection but boasts the
......................32 C2 being exhibited in Tokyo. Exhibitions change
National Medical Clinic Heartland ..............55 C3 countrys largest exhibition space for visit-
............(see 37) every few months and might include high-
EATING (pp14974) Mistral Blue/Train Bar ing shows, which have included painter
Nishi-Azabu Post Office ..................... 56 D2 lights of the Kikuchi collection or a special
China Room ..(see 61) Yokoyama Taikan and photographer Shi-
..................................12 B3 Motown House 1&2 ....................... 57 D2 study of raku pottery; you can bet that the
Fukuzushi ........................... 33 D3 geo Anzai. The NACT is also worth visiting
Police Box .................................. 13 D2 Tokyo Sports Caf displays will be atmospheric and beautiful.
Hawker Style Asian Canteen for its awesome undulating mesh faade,
South Korean Embassy .................58 C2
.............................. 34 D3 The museum is behind the Hotel kura.
..................................... 14 D5
Inakaya ..............................(see 41) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
its caf atop a giant inverted cone and the
Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic great gift shop.
Meidi-ya ...............................35 C2 Azabu-jban Onsen
............................ 15 G3 COMPLEX Map pp967
Moti ...................................... 36 D2 .............................. 59 D4
NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

SIGHTS
Aquarium...........................................(see 24)
Axis ...........(see 26)
Complex ............. 16 D3
Hinokicho-ken
............................ 17 D1
Midtown Garden
......... 18 D1
Mori Art Museum ...........19 C3
Muse Tomo .................... 20 F2
National Art Centre, Tokyo .............21 C2
Tokyo Tower was built during the post-
war boom of the 1950s when Japan was
struggling to create a new list of monu-
ments symbolising its modernity. Drawing
inspiration from the Eiffel Tower, Tokyo
Tower was built 8.6m taller than its Paris
brethren. The similarities stop there as the
Tokyo Tower was painted bright orange
and white in order to comply with interna-
tional aviation safety regulations.
Truth be told, Tokyo Tower is something
of a shameless tourist trap, though its good
fun if you go with the right attitude. Eleva-
tors whisk visitors up to the observation
deck, which provides some stunning views
of the sprawling megalopolis that is Tokyo.
The first floor boasts an enormous aquarium
(adult/child 1000/500), while the third floor is
home to a wax museum (adult/child 870/460) that
retains some degree of retro-popularity.
98
(pp949) National Azabu 
.................37 B4
Sumibi-Yakiniku Toraji
International  
.................38 C3
Vinoteca .....................39 C1 Grand Hyatt Tokyo
ENTERTAINMENT
Blue Note Tokyo
..................... 40 A2
Cavern Club .... 41 D2
Koshi-no-Yu Sent (see 59)
SLEEPING
Arca Torre
.. 60 D2
........61 C3
(pp17590) Hotel Ibis ......... 62 D2
Villa Fontaine Roppongi Annex

...................... 63 E2
ZJ-JI (ZJ TEMPLE) Map pp967
%3432-1431; Shiba-ken; admission free;
hdawn-dusk; bToei edo Line to Akabanebashi
(Akabanebashi exit)
Behind Tokyo Tower is this former funerary
temple of the Tokugawa regime, one of the
most important temples of the Jd (Pure
Land) sect of Buddhism. It dates from 1393,
yet like many sights in Tokyo, its original
structures have been relocated and subject
to war, fire and other natural disasters. It
has been rebuilt several times in recent his-
tory, the last time in 1974.
Nevertheless, Zj-ji remains one of
the most monumental temples in town.
The main gate, Sanmon, was constructed
in 1605, and its three sections were de-
signed to symbolise the three stages one
must pass through to achieve nirvana.
NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI
AXIS Map pp967
%5411-7510; admission free; bHibiya or Toei
(pp20116) edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
%3587-2781; 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admis-
sion free; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or If youre here for only a few days and are
Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) seeking a peek into the Tokyo art scene,
One of the most respected design show- stop here. Several of the best commercial
cases in Tokyo, as well as the publisher galleries in town inhabit the five-storey,
aptly named Complex. Spaces are a mix of
of a well-regarded design magazine, Axis
is a multi-storey, multi-genre gallery and styles and intentions, a conflation of more
retail building. Theres always something established exhibitors such as Ota Fine Arts,
new and daring in its art galleries, and the known for showing big names like Kusama
shops, chosen with care, include home Yayoi as well as newer galleries.
TOKYO CEMETERIES
Strolling through a cemetery may seem like a grim pastime, but in Tokyo the grave markers can be quite elegant, making
the experience both historical and pleasant.
Aoyama Rei-en (; Map pp967; Aoyama Cemetery; h24hr; bChiyoda Line to Nogizaka, main exit)
John Manjiro, the famously shipwrecked young fisherman who became the first Japanese person to go to America, is
buried here, as is Professor Ueno, the master of Hachik the Dog (p105). Its a good alternative to the crowds at Ueno
or Yoyogi-ken during hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) season. You can stroll from either Roppongi or Aoyama.
Yanaka Cemetery ( Map p72; hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori, south exit) One of
Tokyos oldest cemeteries, its worth strolling the narrow lanes and continuing to Ueno on foot. Beyond the cemetery,
the quiet Yanaka area has many old Buddhist temples and speciality shops. For a walking tour of the area, see p76.
Zshigaya Cemetery (; Map p122; hdawn-dusk; bYrakuch Line to Higashi-ikebukuro, exit
5) Not far south of Ikebukuros commercial hub is the old residential district of Zshigaya. This cemetery, a collec-
tion of weathered headstones surrounded by small paths and greenery, is the final resting place of authors Lafcadio
Hearn, Nagai Kafu and Soseki Natsume.
99
lonelyplanet.com

E B I SU, DAI K AN YA M A & M EG U RO
Eating p165; Shopping p140; Sleeping p211
Home to a smart, stylish set of young professionals, wealthy families and privileged expats, Ebisu
is one of Tokyos best-kept secrets. The entire neighbourhood, which screams status, privilege
and excellent breeding, offers up some of the citys most cosmopolitan eateries and lounges.
Quick to scoff at the teen trends and fickle fashions of nearby Harajuku and Shibuya, Ebisu is
cool, classy and always sophisticated.
Up the hill and to the west of Ebisu is Daikanyama, which is characterised by a matrix of funky
restaurants and bars run by eccentric proprietors, crazy buildings designed by local visionaries
and unique shops defying classification. Equally prestigious as an Ebisu address, Daikanyama
is something of a Ginza for high-class shoppers and diners in-the-know.
One stop south from Ebisu on the JR Yamanote Line is Meguro, which is decidedly more
working class than its ritzy neighbours. However, Meguro does have a number of unique sights
including the intimate and haunting Daien-ji temple (below), the intimate and artful Meguro
Museum of Art (p103) and the frankly icky Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103). Also nearby
are the forests of the Shizen-Kyiku-en, a nature preserve right in the middle of the big city.
If you have even the slightest love for that deliciously malty alcoholic beverage known in
Japanese as biiru, dont miss the Beer Museum Yebisu (below), which has a bargain tasting room
that serves up copious amounts of their famous brew. Also of note in Ebisu is the Tokyo Met-
ropolitan Museum of Photography (p103), a point of pilgrimage for devout shutterbugs (and
there are certainly a lot of them in Japan!).
Ebisu and Daikanyama are located south of Harajuku and Aoyama and east of Roppongi.
From the JR Ebisu Station, the east exit opens onto the Yebisu Sky Walk, a series of conveyor
belts that will eventually deposit you in the courtyard of Yebisu Garden Place. This is the side
of Ebisu designed for visitors, tourists and hardcore shoppers. If you want to see where locals
NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO
lonelyplanet.com
JAPANESE GODS & MYTHICAL CREATURES
You can see representations of a myriad folk gods in temples, shrines and artwork. Common deities and supernatural
creatures include the following.
Benzaiten The goddess of art is skilled in eloquence, music, literature and wisdom. She holds a biwa (lute) and is
often escorted by a sea snake.
Bishamon The god of war wears a helmet and a suit of armour, and brandishes a spear. As a protector of Buddhism,
he can be seen carrying a pagoda.
Daikoku The god of wealth has a bag full of treasures slung over his left shoulder and a lucky mallet in his right hand.
Ebisu The patron of seafarers and a symbol for prosperity in business, Ebisu carries a fishing rod with a large, red sea
bream dangling on the line and can be recognised by his beaming, bearded face.
Fukurokuju This god looks after wealth and longevity. He has a bald, dome-shaped head, a dumpy body and wears
long, flowing robes.
Hotei The god of happiness is instantly recognisable (in Japan and elsewhere in Asia) by his large paunch and Chesh-
ire-cat grin. Originally a Chinese beggar-priest, he is the only god in this group whose antecedents can be traced to a
human being. His bulging bag provides for the needy and is never empty.
Jiz Bodhisattva and protector of children, the infirm, the aged and travellers. Often seen by the side of the road, and
wearing a red bib and sometimes a cap, and often in clusters where tragedies have taken place.
Jurojin This god also covers longevity. He sports a distinguished white beard and holds a cane to which is attached a
scroll listing the life spans of all living beings.
Kappa These are amphibious creatures about the size of a 12- or 13-year-old child. They have webbed hands and feet
and a reputation for mischief, such as dragging horses into rivers or stealing cucumbers. The source of their power is
a depression on top of their heads that must always contain water. A crafty method to outwit a kappa is to bow to it.

NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

When the kappa bows back, it empties the water from its head and loses its power. The alternatives are not pleasant:
live and play, head for the west exit and up the hill towards glitzy Daikanyama.
kappa are said to enjoy ripping out their victims liver through the anus!
From Meguro Station, Daien-ji, Meguro Gajoen and the Meguro Museum of Art are west
of the station, while the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum and National Park for Nature Kitsune This creature is a fox that has strong connections with the supernatural and is worshipped at over 30,000
Study are east along Meguro-dri. Inari shrines as the messenger of the harvest god. Fushimi Inari Taisha, a shrine near Kyoto, is the largest of its kind
and is crammed with fox statues.
BEER MUSEUM YEBISU Map p102 trees commemorates stillborn and miscar- Maneki-neko The Beckoning Cat is a very common sight outside shops or restaurants. The raised left paw attracts
ried children as well as aborted fetuses. customers and their money.
%5423-7255; www.sapporobeer.jp/english/when/ Located in the rear of the temple precinct
is a separate tribute to the 14,700 people Shichifuku-jin The seven gods of luck are a happy band of well-wishers plucked from Indian, Chinese and Japa-
museum/museum.html; 4-20-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ky; ad- nese sources. Their images are popular at New Year, when they are, more often than not, depicted as a group on a
mission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 5pm; who died in the fire of 1772, which, in
addition to flattening most of the wooden takarabune (treasure ship).
bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (main exit)
Lets cut to the chase. Yes, this is the site houses in surrounding Meguro, burned Tanuki This creature is often translated as badger, but bears a closer resemblance to a North American raccoon. Like the
of the original Yebisu brewery (1889; now the original temple structure to the kitsune, the tanuki is thought of as a mischievous creature and is credited with supernatural powers, but it is more a figure
owned by the giant brewer Sapporo). And ground. of fun than the fox. Statues usually depict the tanuki in an upright position with straw headgear, clasping a bottle of sake.
yes, inside are giant pot-bellied beer vats, As you enter, youll see red-bonneted Tengu The mountain goblin has a capricious nature sometimes abducting children, sometimes returning those who
antique signage, cute beer ads and a cheesy jiz figures (small stone statues of the were missing. Its unmistakable feature is a long nose, like that of a proboscis monkey.
Magic Vision Theatre. But really youve come
for the Tasting Room, where you can try
cheap draughts of everything from weizen TRANSPORT: EBISU, Buddhist protector of travellers and chil- SHIZEN KYIKU-EN (INSTITUTE FOR
and ale to porters and stouts a four-glass dren; for more details see the boxed text, NATURE STUDY) Map p102
tasting set will set you back only 400). DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO above). Further into the temple precinct and
Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Ebisu and completely lining one of its walls are Arhat %3441-7176; www.kahaku.go.jp/english/visitor
DAIEN-JI (DAIEN TEMPLE) Map p102 Meguro Stations. Daikanyama is located on the (atonement) statues of the Gohyakurakan _info/shizenen/index.html; 5-21-5 Shirokanedai,
Tky Tyoko Line. (the 500 followers of Buddha). Each of Minato-ku; adult/child to 18 & seniors 300/free;
%3491-2793; 1-8-5 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; Metro The Hibiya Line runs through Ebisu and con- these exquisite stone markers, made to ap- h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr, 9am-5pm
admission free; h9am-5pm; bJR Yamanote nects with the main JR station. Meguro is served by pease the souls that departed in the great Tue-Sun May-Aug, last admission 4pm year-round;
Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro the Namboku and Toei Mita Lines. Some locations fire, has its own design and facial expres- bNamboku Line to Shirokanedai (exit 1)
(west exit) east of Meguro are closest to Shirokanedai Station sion. Water is often placed in front of the Although the 200,000 sq metres of this land
Established sometime around 1615, this on the Namboku Line. statues to ease the degree of the victims was the estate of a daimy some six cen-
small, photogenic temple hemmed in by suffering. turies ago and was the site of gunpowder
100 101
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO 0 0.3 miles EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO
INFORMATION Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Monsoon .......24 C3
Ebisu Eki-mae Post Office Museum ......... 12 D5 Mushroom .............. 25 B2
Sakuragaokach .......................... 1 B3
Rico's Kitchen
See Shibuya
Kseich Hospital SHOPPING (pp13548) .............................26 D3
Shibuya-ku .................................... 2 Daikanyama Address
Map p106

C4 Toki no ma ............................ 27 B3
Post Office ............................... 3 C2  ..........................13 A2 Zest Cantina Ebisu
Tokyo British Clinic GDC ........................................................14 A2 
 Good Day Books
................................................28 C3
........................................ 4 B2 ...................15 C3
Daikanyama

Hacknet ................... 16 B2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)
SIGHTS (pp1004) Kamawanu .......................17 A2 Liquid Room ......29 C2
r i

14 Beer Museum Yebisu Matsuzakaya ......................... 18 B3

-d

Milk ....................................... (see 31)

.......................... 5 C3
an

4 Hir Mitsukoshi ...................19 C4 Yebisu Garden Cinema

im

Sarugakuch
ch

Daien-ji (Daien Temple) ......6 C6 Q Flagship Ebisu-nishi

Ha

..............30 C4
La Fuente Meguro Gajoen (Meguro .............................. (see 16)

M
Mall
Wedding Hall) ........... 7 C6

ei
Ebisu Yebisu Garden Place

ji-
Prime DRINKING (pp17590)

d
Square Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo ..........20 C4

ri
Plaza
.................................... 8 B5 Footnik ............. (see 15)
17 13
29 What the Dickens
25 3
Meguro Parasitological Museum EATING (pp14974)
.................................... 9 B6 Caf Artifagose ................... 31 B3
Ky 16 Ebisu-
u- 21
22 Ya
Daikanyama higashi
Shibuya-
gawa Shizen Kyiku-en (National ............... 21 A2
ma
Ebisu ken SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
t Institute for Nature Study) Caff Michelangelo
Ebisu Comm'Inn .............................................32 B3
e-

..................................... 10 D4
d

Ebisu- 31 ..............22 A2
ri

Nishi Ebisu Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Konishi Japanese Cooking Class SLEEPING (pp20116)

15 Photography  Westin Hotel Tokyo
28 ........................11 C4 ........................ 23 B5 ......... 33 D4
1 32 Atr
Ebisu 24
27 Mall
18

ri
i-d
warehouses in the early Meiji period, youd MEGURO PARASITOLOGICAL
Skywalk

Gaien-nish
Ebisu- 26
NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

Naka-
meguro Minami scarcely know it now. Since 1949, this garden MUSEUM Map p102

Naka- Ebisu- has been part of the Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubut-
Meguro

minami
ken 5 sukan (see p73), and aims to preserve the local %3716-1264; 4-1-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku;
19

30
flora in undisciplined profusion. There are admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR
Yebisu
Garden 20
wonderful walks through its forests, marshes Yamanote Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to
Place
and ponds, making this one of Tokyos least Meguro (west exit)
11
2 33 known and most appealing getaways. Bonus: Yeah, ew. Probably the grossest museum in
2 admission is limited to 300 people at a time. Japan, this spot was established in 1953 by
No
Satoru Kamegai, a local doctor concerned
Ya

y
wa
ma

Mita
MEGURO MUSEUM OF ART, TOKYO
xp

by the increasing number of parasites he

te-

Shuto E
a
d

ak
ri

-z

ay
a Map p102 was encountering in his practice due to
Ch
10 unsanitary postwar conditions. The grisly
%3714-1201; www.mmat.jp; 2-4-36 Meguro, centrepiece is an 8.8m-long tapeworm found
Shizen
Meguro-ku; adult/concession 1000/700; h10am- ensconced in the body of a 40-year-old
M

Kyiku-en
eg
ur

6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Yokohama man. Although theres not a lot of
o
-g
a

Meguro-ku Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit)

wa

12 English signage, little explanation is neces-

Half local, half global, one part of this mu- sary (or even welcomed) as you can easily
Shinagawa-ku
seum exhibits the work of Meguro artists, see how some of these nasties might set up
8 while the other is dedicated to international house inside you. Fun for the whole family!
Meguro fine art and craft exhibits (think the work of

23
Charles and Ray Eames). The building is a TOKYO METROPOLITAN MUSEUM
Za k
a delight its airy, spacious and well-lit com- OF PHOTOGRAPHY Map p102
Gonn osuke
Meguro pared with many other Tokyo art museums,
which can want for space and theres a cof-
6 %3280-0099; www.syabi.com; 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro-
fee shop with pleasant views of the grounds. ku; admission 500-1500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun;
Kami-
7 saki Take the west exit of Meguro Station,
uro-d
ri
9 bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (main exit)
Meg walk straight ahead down Meguro-dri and
Shimo- In a corner of Yebisu Garden Place, this five-
Meguro turn right just after crossing Meguro River
storey museum chronicles the history and
(Meguro-gawa). Walk along the river and
contemporary use of still and moving im-
the museum is on your left, past the tennis
ages, and holds 23,000 works, roughly 70%
court and swimming pool.
102 103
lonelyplanet.com

of them Japanese. Displays often comprise the Rape of Nanjing. It became a museum

exceptional work by photographers from
both Japan and abroad, and theres an
extensive library of photographic literature
from throughout the world.
TOKYO METROPOLITAN TEIEN ART
MUSEUM Map p102
%3491-4111; 1-8-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku;
%3443-0201; www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp;
5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; admission 1000;
h10am-6pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of the month;
bNamboku Line to Shirokanedai (exit 1)
Although this museum hosts art exhibitions
(eg Meissen porcelain or pottery by impor-
tant Japanese artists), its appeal lies princi-
pally in the building itself its an Art Deco
structure built in 1933, designed by French
architect Henri Rapin. The interior details
remain alluring, including etched tile trim,
light fixtures sculpted to look like peaches
and pumpkins, and the perfume fountain,
sort of an early aromatherapy device. The
house was originally home to Prince Asaka-
no-miya (18871981), Emperor Hirohitos
uncle, who was pardoned for his part in
NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO
lonelyplanet.com
in 1983. The museum sits in the southwest S H I BU YA
corner of the Shizen Kyiku-en (separate
entrance and admission). Eating p167; Shopping p141; Sleeping p211
Step out of Shibuya Station sometime after dark, and youll find yourself in the Tokyo of your
dreams. At Shibuya Crossing, a mind-blowing spectacle of neon, streets radiate out like a star-
MEGURO GAJOEN (MEGURO
burst, and the crowd is a mix of diligently acquired elegance and adolescent exuberance. Much
WEDDING HALL) Map p102
like New Yorks Times Square and Londons Piccadilly Circus, Tokyos Shibuya Crossing is
visual and aural candy at its best.
Truth be told, Shibuya is not rich in history, and its paltry handful of sights pale in significance
admission free; bJR Yamanote Line or subway compared to those found in adjacent neighbourhoods. However, Shibuya is perhaps the best
Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit) neighbourhood in Tokyo to take in the beating pulse of modern Japan by simply browsing,
One look at the ads on virtually any sub-
shopping, dining and watching the outrageous get-ups that have most recently come off the
way car will tell you that wedding halls
runways at Tokyos fashion shows. You will be rewarded here by putting down the guidebook
are big business in Tokyo. For better or for
and getting lost in the sea of rampant consumerism surrounding you.
worse, Gajoen is one of the biggest, and
Shibuya is studded with department stores that vie for the patronage of cash-loaded young
as a study in anthropology you can hardly
Japanese looking for their own unique fashion identity. The offshoots of the Tky and Seibu
beat it. Wedding hall doesnt do justice to
department stores tend to be funkier than in other parts of the city, though the Tky Hands
its many storeys of chapels, banquet halls,
(p142) is perhaps the gem among all of them.
expensive restaurants and hotel rooms.
Shibuya, the neighbourhood, is at the centre of Shibuya ward, with nearly a million people
The impossibly long corridor connecting
within its bounds. Harajuku borders it to the north, Aoyama and Roppongi lie to the east and
them is lined with friezes of geisha and
the sophisticated Ebisu and Daikanyama are just south. The most famous meeting place in
samurai and often festooned with flowers,
Tokyo, which lies in front of Shibuya Station, is the Hachik statue. This famous pooch even
while floor-to-ceiling windows look out on
has his own exit from the station named after him, which is in fact the exit you should use for
a drop-dead hillside garden. Even if there
all of the sights listed in this section.
arent wedding bells in your future, its
worth stopping by for a look. HACHIK STATUE Map p106 display live videos of the street scene

below. The sheer energy of the place is
bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to
Shibuya (Hachik exit)
In the 1920s, a professor who lived near
Shibuya Station kept Hachik, a small Akita
dog, who came to the station every day to
await his masters return. The master died
while at work in 1925, but the dog con-
tinued to show up and wait at the station
until his own death 10 years later. Hachiks
faithfulness was not lost on the Japanese,
who built a statue to honour his memory.
The story is more interesting than the
statue itself, but Hachik is perhaps Tokyos
most famous meeting spot. The proud
pooch is usually surrounded by hip-looking
Tokyoites with mobiles in hand, coordinat-
ing the festivities to follow.
SHIBUYA CROSSING Map p106
bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to
Shibuya (Hachik exit)
Across from Hachik plaza is arguably one
of the coolest intersections you will ever
see in your life. Made famous in the West
following Sofia Coppolas Lost in Transla-
tion, Shibuya Crossing is remarkable for its
throngs of people, blazing neon lights and
enormous video screens, which sometimes
104
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA
enough to stop you dead in your tracks
while you loudly proclaim to yourself,
Wow Im in Tokyo!
LOVE HOTEL HILL Map p106
bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to
Shibuya (Hachik exit)
If you think that Japan is all about raked
pebble gardens, geisha in kimono and Zen
meditation, make a point of taking a stroll
through Love Hotel Hill. Offering one of the
largest concentrations of love hotels (see
p202 for more details) in Tokyo, this famous
hill is where most men and women out on
the prowl hope the night will end.
Depending on your tastes, you can bed
down in a variety of themed hotels ranging
from miniature Gothic castles and kitschy
TRANSPORT: SHIBUYA
Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Shibuya Sta-
tion. You can also connect here to suburban private
trains operated by the Tokyu and Keio Lines.
Metro The Hanzmon and Ginza Lines stop at
Shibuya.
105
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 400 m
SHIBUYA 0 0.2 miles SHIBUYA
INFORMATION Parco I 1...................21 C2 NHK Hall NHK ....................... 41 B1
Yoyogi-ken
(Yoyogi Park)
Meiji-
jingmae
Across Travellers Bureau Parco II 2..................22 C2 Ruby Room ............. 42 B3
Weekend
Yoyogi-ken
Buskers .......................... 1 C3 RanKing RanQueen Shibuya O-East
Jingmae
Meiji-
Caf J Net New New  ........................23 C3 ........................ 43 B3
jingmae

Fire-dri
Om
Yoyogi ote ............ 2 B2 Shibuya 109 109 ......................24 C3 Shibuya-Ax .............44 C1
National -sa
Stadium nd

HIS Travel Shibuya Tky Honten Womb ..................................... 45 B3
.. 3 C3 ................................. 25 B3

ri
41 Malaysian Embassy Tower Records ..26 C2 DRINKING (pp17590)

i-d
.......................... 4 B4 Tsutsumu Factory .......... 27

eij
B2 Bello Visto ................. (see 53)

e
Lin
44

M
Jinnan New Zealand Embassy Tky Hands ............... 28 B2 Chestnut & Squirrel .......................... 46 D3

hin
Weekend
NHK Broadcast .......... 5 A2

tos
Buskers Hub Pub ............................47 C3

ku
Center &
No 1 Travel EATING (pp14974) Insomnia Lounge .48 C3

Fu
Shibuya-ku 30 I no Studio Park See Harajuku &
Aoyama Map p110
kas ................. 6 C2 Coucagno ............. (see 53) Pink Cow ..................... 49 D2
hir 37
Police Box ..................................... 7 B3 El Castellano
da-
51 Kamiyamach 15
Police Box ..................................... 8 C3 .................. 29 D3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
ri

54 Shibuya Police Station........................9 D3 Kujiraya .................................... (see 24) Eight Rent ...............50 C3
58 16
Miyashita- Shibuya Post Office .. 10 D3 Mayu (Cocoon) ..............................30 A2
5
27 22 6 ken Mitake-
National Okinawa ...................................... 31 B3 SLEEPING (pp20116)
Childrens
39 28 21 ken 49 Castle SIGHTS (pp1058) Shizenkan II .......................... 32 D3 Arimax Hotel
Udagawach 18

K
n- 26 Bunkamura ............................11 B3 Sonoma ............................... (see 42) ................... 51 B2

e
2 19 34 d
ri Hachik Statue ................12 C3 Capsule Land Shibuya......................52 B3
17 36 20
Shib7
3 Love Hotel Hill ..13 B3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590) Cerulean Tower Tky Hotel

Meiji-dri
25 Shibuya

ri
11 uya
Bun Sen 47 29 Shibuya Crossing Bunkamura Orchard Hall.............. (see 11) 53 C4

d
k

Jing-
33 amur ta-g 10
Sht 31 a-d ai 59 ........................14 C3 Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon Creston Hotel 54 B2
42 ri ka 1
57
24 48 asu-za Tepco Electric Energy Museum ....... (see 11) Excel Tokyu Hotel
Miyam
Dgenzaka

i
35 14

r
Shibuya Nonbei- ................................................15 C2 Cerulean Tower N Theatre ...................55 C3

-d
-d ri 38 Kei 12 8 yokocho

ma
kae 13 Shibuya Drinking Shibuya-ku Tobacco & Salt Museum ....... (see 53) Hotel Mets Shibuya
Sa

ya
55 SHIBUYA Alley
a

Ao
45 43 50 ...................16 C2 Cine Amuse East/West
ak

23 ........................56 C4
nz

Shibuya Mark 60 ............................. 33 B3 Shibuya City Hotel

ge

e City Mall Toguri Museum of Art

ira Lin
D
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA
okash 9 Cinema Rise ............34 C2 ........................ 57 B3
Keio In 52 ......................................17 B3
46
40
dr
i 32 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan (Tokyo Club Asia ................. 35 B3 Shibuya Tbu Hotel
wa-
aga Metropolitan Children's Hall) Club Quattro ..... 36 B3 .............................58 C2
Tam Maruyama
56
Maruyamach
53
............................ 18 D2 Eggman ........................37 C2 Shibuya Tky Inn
Sh
y No 3 ib Eurospace ........... 38 B3 .................................59 C3
to Expw uy
Shu a- SHOPPING (pp13548)
Sakuragaokach
g JZ Brat (see 53)
TRANSPORT (pp237244)
aw

Beam Building ............19 B2 Kanze N-gakud

a

Loft ...........................................20 C3 (Kanze N Theatre) . 39 B2 Shibuya Bus Terminal

ri

Mandarake ................(see 19) La.Mama ................................ 40 B3 ...................60 C3

-d

See Ebisu,
an

4 Daikanyama
im

& Meguro
ch

Map p102
bitter leaf, complete with pipes, parapher- Operated by the Tokyo Electric Power Com-
Ha

Daikanyama
nalia and wood-block prints. pany, it offers seven floors of knowledge
Downstairs is a homage to Japanese about electricity production and consump-
Arabian palaces to traditional Japanese- all sorts of herbal and chemical love tonics. modes of salt production, which until tion; if youre not fortunate enough to be
themed inns and Balinese-inspired resorts. Even if you read Japanese, its hard to know recently was conducted by cumbersome invited to a Japanese home, the 4th-floor
Although choosing where to go is the best what the heck is in these things, though our harvests from a reluctant sea. Among the collection will give you a good idea of the
part of visiting a love hotel (well, aside from sources tell us that these drugs will knock exhibits is a grey, crystalline salt cylinder state of the art. There are lots of hands-on
the actual act itself ), our personal favourite the socks off you and your partner. whose circumference could match that exhibits, normally a hit with kids. Signage is
is a particular Caribbean-themed love hotel of a small whale. English signage is sadly almost entirely in Japanese, but theres an
with fake palm trees at the bedside well TOBACCO & SALT MUSEUM Map p106 limited, though the visual power of the excellent English handout on each floor.
leave it to you to find it! exhibits here speaks for itself.
To reach Love Hotel Hill, take the road %3476-2041; www.jti.co.jp/Culture/museum/Wel BUNKAMURA Map p106
up Dgenzaka to the left of the Shibuya come.html; 1-16-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission TEPCO ELECTRIC ENERGY MUSEUM
109 building. At the top of the hill, on the 100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line Map p106 %3477-9111; www.bunkamura.co.jp; 2-24-1
side streets that run off the main road, is or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit) Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies by event;
the main concentration of love hotels. Of For years, smokers have found solace in %3477-1191; 1-12-10 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admis- hvary by event; bJR Yamanote Line or subway
course, the best way to get around this Tokyos cafs and bars, and for much of sion free; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue; bJR Yamanote Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)
area is to meet a nice Japanese guy or girl that time the government was in the busi- Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit) Bunkamura means culture village and it
to show you around! ness of supplying them through a tobacco Called Denryokukan, the Tepco Electric En- was Japans first crosscultural centre. Spin-
Also take note that should you need a monopoly. That company has since been ergy Museum is the building on Jing-dri the-globe exhibits feature the work of artists
little help enhancing your love life, nearby privatised to Japan Tobacco Inc, which is with the R2D2-shaped silver dome from Grandma Moses to Monet to Munakata
Love Hotel Hill is a variety of shops selling the owner of this museum, a shrine to the its clearly visible from the Hachik statue. Shik as well as photographic displays by
106 107
lonelyplanet.com

the likes of Man Ray. Its also a busy theatre, YOYOGI-KEN (YOYOGI PARK)

art house cinema and concert hall. Its about
seven minutes walk from Shibuya Station
(turn right at the Shibuya 109 building).
TOGURI MUSEUM OF ART Map p106
%3465-0070; www.toguri-museum.or.jp; 1-11-3
Shto, Shibuya-ku; adult/child/student 1000/400/
700; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote
Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)
A few minutes walk from Bunkamura,
the Toguri displays about 100 pieces at a
time from its 7000-piece collection of fine
Japanese, Korean and Chinese porcelain.
The galleries are reasonably sized, theres
a pretty garden and the residential neigh-
bourhood is so quiet that youd never
guess youre just steps away from Shibuyas
hustle and bustle.
Map p106
admission free; hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote
Line to Harajuku (Omote-sand exit)
Sunday in Yoyogi-ken used to be one
of Tokyos prime attractions, when local
Rich Girl by American pop singer Gwen Stefani. Although Harajuku girls dont exactly come
bands gathered to give free concerts on
the parks pathways and kids in wild hair-
Tokyo), they are certainly an easily identifiable breed. With camera in hand, be sure to take
dos and 1950s get-ups gathered to gyrate
to recorded rock and roll. Sadly, the police
have put a stop to this and now Yoyogi-
ken is just another park. That said, with
lots of wide open spaces and some flower-
ing trees, its not a bad place for a picnic
or playing some sport on the grass. Its
also worth a stop to view an early piece
by architect Tange Kenz, the National
Gymnasium, which was built for the 1964
Olympics.
lonelyplanet.com
HAR A J U KU & AOYA M A
Eating p168; Shopping p142
Few districts in Tokyo can offer as many contrasting styles and personalities as the adjacent
neighbourhoods of Harajuku and Aoyama. The living, breathing souls of Harajuku are the aptly
named Harajuku girls, who have been vaulted onto the global stage following the smash hit
from the hoods of Japan (Harajuku is in fact one of the most expensive strips of real estate in
a stroll down Takeshita-dori, or stop by the Sunday cos play (costume play) fashion show on
Jingo-bashi youll certainly photograph some interesting characters!
If you cross the bridge and enter the grand, calming, tree-lined precincts of Meiji-jing,
youll quickly be transported back to old Japan. This serene shrine, which would probably
be more at home in ancient Kyoto than in ultra-modern Tokyo, is one of the undeniable
highlights of any trip to the capital. However, if you step just outside the shrine, and head
east to the grand shopping boulevard of Omote-sand, the contrasts continue. Home to the
haut-est of haute couture, Omote-sand is where Harajuku girls head when they grow up and
earn a bit more cash.
At the boulevards other end is Aoyama, domain of chic boutiques and ersatz Parisian cafs.
Here too are fine museums, galleries and design stores, most notably Watari-Um (Watari
Museum of Contemporary Art; p111) and the National Art Center, Tokyo (p99).
Omote-sand links Harajuku with Aoyama, which lie at the centre of the greater Shibuya
ward. To the west is Shibuya and the broad expanse of Yoyogi Park, while to the east is Aoyama
Cemetery and Roppongi.

MEIJI-JING (MEIJI SHRINE) Map p110 of two daimy families, after it came under
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA

NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

imperial control, Meiji himself designed the
Meiji Shrine; %3379-5511; www.meijijingu.or.jp;
Kamizono-ch, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; admission free;
hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku
(Omote-sand exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji-
Jingmae (exit 3)
Tokyos grandest Shint shrine, this 1920
edifice enshrines the Emperor Meiji and
Empress Shken, under whose rule Japan
ended its isolation from the outside
world. Destroyed in WWII bombings and
reconstructed in 1958, the shrine build-
ings occupy just a corner of the precincts
70 forested hectares (175 acres). In fact,
its 100,000 trees are said to have been
donated by 100,000 visitors from all over
Japan.
Meiji-jing might be a reconstruction of
the original but, unlike so many of Japans
postwar reconstructions, it is altogether
authentic. The main structure was built
with prized hinoki cypress from the Kiso
region of Nagano prefecture, while the cy-
press for the huge torii (gate) was imported
from Alishan in Taiwan. If youre there when
a wedding is in progress, the procession is
pure photographic gold.
The grounds are also home to the Meiji-
jing Gyen (admission 500; h9am-4.30pm), a
lovely strolling garden. Once the property
garden as a gift to the Empress Shken.
There are peaceful walks to the pond and
teahouse and a good dose of privacy at
weekdays, and spectacular irises and sat-
suki azaleas in season.
TAKESHITA-DRI (TAKESHITA
STREET) Map p110
bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dri exit)
This teeming alley, which lies at the heart
of Harajuku, represents Tokyos propensity
for both teenage kitsch and subcultural
fetish. Boom boxes blare at full volume
while young, angst-decorated adolescents
browse through racks of cheap versions of
the days latest trend. This is the place to
TRANSPORT: HARAJUKU &
AOYAMA
Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Harajuku
Station.
Metro The Chiyoda Line runs beneath Omote-sand,
stopping at Omote-sand Station and Meiji-
jingmae Station. The Ginza and Hanzmon Lines
also both stop at Omote-sand Station.

108 109
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
HARAJUKU & AOYAMA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
Shinjuku-gyoen INFORMATION Hysteric Glamour Natural House ...................... 33 C5
See Shinjuku (Shinjuku Park) Police Box ............................................1 C4 .................... 15 A4 Nobu ....................................................... 34 D6
Map p116
Issey Miyake .......................... 16 C5 Tetsugen Nikusho
SIGHTS (pp10912) Kiddyland ..................... 17 B4 ................................................35 B5
Sendagaya
Shuto
Design Festa Laforet Building .............. 18 B4
Sendagaya
Expwy
No 4 ................................2 C3 Oriental Bazaar ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)
37 41
Kokuritsu- Jing-bashi (Jing Bridge) .................... 19 B4 Aoyama Enkei Gekij
Kygij
Tokyo
Metropolitan
..........................................................3 A4
Spiral Records .......................................(see 4)
Gymnasium Kodomo-no-Shiro (National .........................(see 6) Crocodile .......................36 B4
Children's Castle) Tg-jinja Fine Arts Market
d

44 Kokuritsu N-Gakud (National

Kita-san

Kita-sando ................................................ 4 B5 ................................... 20 B3 N Theatre) ................... 37 C1

National
Meiji-jing (Meiji Shrine) Undercover ............. 21 D5
Stadium .....................................................5 A2 Uniqlo ...................................... 22 B4 DRINKING (pp17590)
42
Spiral Building .......... 6 C5 Yohji Yamamoto ................. 23 D5 Den Aquaroom
Shibuya-ku Ukiyo-e ta Memorial Art Museum ............................. 38 D5
Fukuto
Jing ....................... 7 B4 EATING (pp14974) Tokyo Apartment Caf
gaien Watari-um (Watari Museum of Fonda de la Madrugada ..........39 B4
shin Li
5 Meiji-
Meiji-jing
Contemporary Art)
ken 
Kaikan
Meiji-jing .................................8 C3  ................................... 24 B3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
ne

(Meiji Shrine)
Hannibal Deux Jing Baseball Stadium
SHOPPING (pp13548)  .............................. 25 B2 ................................................. 40 D2
Jing A Bathing Ape Meiji-jing Ice Skating Rink

Gaien-nishi-dri
Kyio Kinokuniya (Interim Store)
25 40 ................. 9 D5 ..................................................26 D4 ......... 41 D1
Line

Chicago Thrift Store ................ 10 B4 Kinokuniya International National Stadium ........... 42 D2

24
note

Commes des Garons Supermarket ...................... 27 D4 Ohara School of Ikebana

..............................11 D5 Las Chicas .......................... 28 B5 .................................. 43 C5
a
Yam

30 Condomania ............... 12 B4 Maisen .......................................... 29 C4 Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium

Tg- 31 Fuji-Torii ............................. 13 B4 Mominoki House Indoor Pool
jinja Prince Chichibu ........................... 44 C1
Minami-sand

20
32
Memorial Hanae Mori Building ................................... 30 C3
Rugby Stadium ................................... 14 C4 Nabi .................................................... 31 C3
Take
sh SLEEPING (pp20116)
ri

ita-
d 8 Hanae Mori Building Antique Natural Harmony Angolo
i-d
NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

ri Market National Children's Castle Hotel
eij

Yoyogi-ken 
M

(Yoyogi Park) Entrance

2 Ki ................. (see 14)  .................................................. 32 C3 ..................................(see 4)
Harajuku lle
Gate r-d
Harajuku r
i Gaienmae

Meiji-
7
39 18
look for outrageously gaudy jewellery, punk This cosy museum, which asks that you
Entrance See Akasaka
Gate
jingmae
Meiji-
Map p92 accessories, trendy hair boutiques, fast-food trade your shoes for a pair of slippers at the
3 jingmae
10
29 joints and cuddly toys. Also see p144. door, has an excellent collection of ukiyo-e
12 Jingmae
Yoyogi
National
(wood-block prints). The original collector,
Omotesand
Stadium 17 Hills JING-BASHI (JING BRIDGE) Map p110 Ota Seizo, former head of the Toho Life
13 Minato-ku
Insurance Company, began to buy ukiyo-
e
Lin

Om
19
ote Kita-

hin

22 Omotesand nd
-sa
Aoyama 27 e when he realised that many important
bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dri exit)
tos
Fire-dri

26
TODs examples of Japanese wood-block prints
ku

Jingmae Omotesand
The epicentre of the Harajuku cos-play
Fu

Building 1
14 belonged to foreign museums, making
15
36 (costume play) scene, Jing Bridge is best
16 it impossible for Japanese to view many
experienced on a warm and sunny Sunday
e

33 Omote-
Yamanote Lin

sand Minami- of the genres masterworks. The museum

Aoyama afternoon when legions of bizarrely dressed usually displays no more than a few dozen

6 11 teens parade before photographers as if works at a time from its collection of over
28
Kamiyamach 9 they were on a Milan catwalk. From Lolitas 10,000 prints, including those by masters of
23

Miyashita- 21
and goths to French maids and anime the art such as Hokusai and Hiroshige.
Ko 43
ken
Mitake- tt
-d
characters, you never really know what will
ken 4 ori
appear here!
K

n-
e

d
ri
See Shibuya
Map p106 35
WATARI-UM (WATARI MUSEUM OF
CONTEMPORARY ART) Map p110
Meiji-dri

Shibuya
d ri

38
Aoyama See Roppongi
Map pp967
UKIYO-E OTA MEMORIAL ART
Jing-

Daigakuin
Bu
nk a
University MUSEUM Map p110 %3402-3001; www.watarium.co.jp; 3-7-6
Shibuya ka
m ur su-za
a -d
ri M iy a m a Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; adult/student 1000/800;
i
r

Dgenzaka %3403-0880; www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/english h11am-7pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 11am-9pm Wed;

-d
ma

dri
Roppongi-
.html; 1-10-10 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; adult 700,
ya

SHIBUYA 34
bGaienmae (exit 3)
Ao

Shuto Expwy No 3 student 200-500 Tue-Sun, student free-250 Sat & This progressive and often provocative
See Ebisu,
Daikanyama
Sun; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, closed 27th-end museum was built in 1990 to a design by
hi & Meguro of the month; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku Swiss architect Mario Botta. Exhibits are
S

bu Maruyama Map p102

ya
Sakuragaokach
-g
aw
(Omote-sand exit), or Chiyoda Line to Meiji- always cutting-edge and sometimes arty-
a
jingmae (exit 5) farty think push-the-envelope photos
110 111
lonelyplanet.com

by Larry Clark, or vacuum-cleaner ballets 3 Omotesand Hills () The

choreographed by visiting Scandinavians.
Theres an excellent art bookshop called On
lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
AOYAMA ARCHITECTURE 0 0.3 miles
latest Mori development pales in comparison
to the architectural splendour that is Rop-

ri
d
START 2
Sundays (%3470-1424; hhours vary) where you pongi Hills (p94), though this coveted strip Ki

i-
Harajuku lle

eij
r-d

M
can browse through its enormous collec- of upscale boutiques and apartments is still r
i Gaienmae
tion of obscure postcards. one of the citys elite domains of the rich and Meiji- 1
privileged. Originally built as public hous- jingmae
Meiji-
Jingmae
ing after the Great Kant Earthquake left jingmae

AOYAMA ARCHITECTURE half the city homeless, today Mori Hills is Yoyogi
National

Walking Tour easily recognisable by its long and elegant

glass faade.
Stadium
3
Kita-

e
From the cos-play kids of Harajuku to the Aoyama

Lin
4

hin
high-stepping fashionistas of Aoyama,

Fire-dri

tos
4 Louis Vuitton Building ( Shibuya-ku

ku
Omote-sand stretches out in a veritable 5

Fu
catwalk of style and architecture. ) For several years running, the Japanese
END
6
have had something of a love affair with Louis Omote-
sand

1 Laforet Building () Vuitton, which is why this flagship store (%3478- Minami-
Ascend the circular interior as if in a shop- 2100; 5-7-5 Jingmae; h11am-8pm) is usually packed 8 Aoyama

7 9
ping-focused video game, and youll soon wall-to-wall with shoppers. Meant to evoke a Kamiyamach

discover the uniquely confusing half-floors stack of clothes trunks, Jun Aokis design fea-

of this building (for more information see
p144), a popular shopping beacon in Aoyama.
Of course, dont spend too much time here
as you still need to explore the surrounding
neighbourhood. Around the corner youll find
a number of experimental storefronts, many
of them belonging to cutting-edge fashion
NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
tures offset panels of tinted glass behind sheets
of metal mesh of varying patterns, creating a
fabric-like effect.
5 Tods () The Tokyo home of Italian
footwear designer Tods, this shoe store (%6419-
2055; 5-1-15 Jingmae) is one of the most distin-
8 Commes des Garons Building (
WALK FACTS ) The sloped windows of Kawakubo
Reis flagship store (see p144 for more informa-
Start Harajuku JR Station (Omote-sand exit) tion) mildly prepare you for the architectural
End Omote-sand subway station gems lying inside. Step through the entrance
Distance 2.5km and admire the wares on display, which occupy

NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

boutiques. guished buildings in Aoyama. Wrapped in minimalist, curvaceous spaces arranged in a
Time One to two hours with stops
glass and supporting beams whose shapes re- disorienting maze of tilted walls.
2 Design Festa () One flect the winter-bared branches of the Zelkova
of the strangest buildings in Aoyama, the trees along Omote-sand, architect Toyo Itos looking to do a bit of antiquing, the basement 9 Prada Aoyama Building (
structure makes a statement while echoing the of the building is home to a bustling market ) Your final stop on the walking tour
headquarters of Design Festa (%3479-1433; 3-20-
elements of its environment. of more than 30 stalls. is this dazzling store (%6418-0400; 5-2-6 Minami-
18 Jingmae; h11am-8pm) looks like an industrial,
spider-webbed diorama, though the space is Aoyama), which was designed by Swiss archi-
actually home to a slew of galleries. Design 6 Hanae Mori Building ( 7 Spiral Building () tects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron.
Festa is also responsible for the enormous art ) The exquisitely mirrored surface of this Designed by Tokyo architectural luminary The resulting building is a weirdly organic,
and design festival (p18) that takes place bian- building was designed by Tange Kenz, one of Fumihiko Maki, the first floor of this build- bubble-surfaced crystal of a venue in which
nually at the Tokyo Big Sight (p133). Japans most influential architects. For anyone ing is dramatically crowned by a semicyl- the goods almost play a secondary role. The
inder. Inside youll find a listening station exterior itself is stunning, with its panels of
featuring Japanese and world music and an convex glass, but the design of the interiors
exhibition hall with displays of everything six floors almost deceives the senses into see-
SPIRITED AWAY TO THE GHIBLI MUSEUM from fashion and accessories to sculpture ing the space as a seamless whole.
When you saw Spirited Away by Miyazaki Hayao (or Princess Mononoke, Howls Moving Castle, My Neighbour Totoro and and photography. If you have some time, Once youve had your fill of architecture,
so on) you probably fell in love with its mythical themes, fanciful characters and outrageous landscapes. Needless to say, its worth ascending the whimsical spiral turn back towards the Omote-sand inter-
do did every kid in Japan, which means you need to arrange tickets long before you arrive at this museum (%general ramp to a museum-style gift shop located section; its just a few minutes walk to the
information 0570-055777, tickets 0570-000777; www.ghibli-museum.jp/ticket/overseas.html; 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, on the 2nd floor. Omote-sand subway station.
Mitaka-shi; adult 1000, child 100-700; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; bTzai or JR Ch Line to Mitaka, south exit) of
the work of Ghibli, Miyazakis animation studio.
Galleries walk you through the process of animation from concept to screen (English-speaking guides are usually
on hand). Other highlights include a zoetrope presentation of a half-dozen Ghibli characters in motion, a mini-theatre
presenting short films (in Japanese but usually easy enough to follow), a garden on the roof that sits beneath a 5m-tall
robot from the Castle in the Sky, and a gift shop with exclusive themed merchandise (though much of it at exclusive
prices). Special exhibits change annually. To top off the visit, every visitor is given an original frame from one of
Miyazakis films.
From Mitaka Station, follow the signposted walk along the Tamagawa Waterworks for 15 minutes to Inokashira
Park, and turn right. Alternatively, a community bus (one way/return 200/300, approximately every 10 minutes) goes
directly to the museum from the Mitaka Station.

112 113
lonelyplanet.com

SHINJUKU
Eating p169; Shopping p145; Sleeping p213
Shinjuku is anything but camera shy. Here, Bill Murray caught his first, jet-lagged glimpses of
Tokyo in Lost in Translation, and Ridley Scott was rumoured to have drawn inspiration for his
cult classic Blade Runner. More than any other neighbourhood, Shinjuku represents Tokyos
sensory overload and breakneck pace. Its neon canyons crackle with an energy drawn from
somewhere in the future, and its laissez-faire attitude draws 20- and 30-something party people
to tiny nightspots stacked storeys high.
Shinjukus raison dtre is its enormous commuter train station, which is the second largest
in the world, and services an estimated 3.5 million passengers each day. This station also effec-
tively divides Shinjuku into two very distinct neighbourhoods. The west side, Nishi-Shinjuku,
which was once the site of a sizable reservoir, is now dominated by skyscraping office towers,
luxury hotels and the imposing Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, all connected by
wide avenues that are definitely more New York than old Edo. A number of compelling mu-
seums have also brought contemporary art to the area, and played their part in rounding out
the corporate edge.
Not to be outdone by its higher-stepping other half, Shinjukus east side is spontaneous
chaos, an area to wander with your neck craning up and around. Chief attractions here in-
clude the shrine Hanazono-jinja (p119), site of a great Sunday morning flea market, and the
colourful if sleazy Kabukich (p119) and Golden Gai (p119) entertainment areas. Tokyos gay
district, Shinjuku-nichme, is also located in East Shinjuku, and is perhaps one of the liveli-
est queer neighbourhoods in Asia. Just beyond, the park Shinjuku-gyen (p119) remains one
of Tokyos favourite spots for cherry-blossom viewing in the spring, and a calming respite
at other times.
Shinjuku is bordered by Harajuku to the south, greater Akasaka and the outskirts of the
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU
lonelyplanet.com
TOKYO FOR FREE
If youve been here for a few days, youve probably learned that yen is easy enough to spend quickly in the metropolis.
To balance your budget, consider the many things to do that are completely free. These suggestions will cost no more
than the train ticket to get to them.
For an idea of current goings-on, including some freebies, check the website of Japan National Tourist Organiza-
tion (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp).
Parks
Unlike Tokyos gardens, most of Tokyos parks are free (Shinjuku-gyen is the big exception to this rule), and provide a
welcome escape from the omnipresent concrete and urban sprawl. Just grab a bent (boxed lunch) and/or some baked
bread and youve got yourself a picnic. Good spots are Kitanomaru-ken (p51) near the Imperial Palace, Yoyogi-ken
(p108) near Harajuku, Ueno-ken (p70) and Hibiya-ken (p61) near Ginza.
Galleries
Most private galleries dont charge admission. Indeed, these galleries are often rented by individual artists who are
delighted to help cultivate interest in their work. Ginza and Harajuku are the best places to hunt for them. Depart-
ment store galleries (on upper floors) are another good bet if these are not free, admission is often cheaper than a
museum entry fee.
Temples & Shrines
Shrines are almost always free in Tokyo and most temples charge only to enter their honden (main hall). Sens-ji (p85)
in Asakusa and Meiji-jing (p109) in Harajuku are two good places to start.

Imperial Palace to the east and Ikebukuro to the north.
Shinjuku Station is the citys biggest transit hub and the one everyone warns you about: take
the wrong exit and you may find yourself a half-hour away from your destination. Yes, it is
daunting, but here are some general guidelines.
The classic rendezvous point opposite the stations east exit, across Shinjuku-dri, is in front
of the Studio Alta building with its huge video screen. Continuing through the side streets
away from the station, youll reach Yasukuni-dri with its neon buildings, and beyond that the
bawdy district of Kabukich. Isetan (p146) and Mitsukoshi (p136) department stores and Shinjuku-
nichme are to the east via Shinjuku-dri or Yasukuni-dri (Shinjuku-sanchme Station is the
closest station for these locations).
If youre heading for the skyscrapers, there is a pedestrian tunnel towards Tochmae Station
on the Toei edo Line, which may be the easier stop depending on your destination. Theres
also a south exit, which is the closest access to Shinjuku-gyen and the Takashimaya Times
Square shopping complex.
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU
Company Showrooms
So theyre really just another form of advertising, but some showrooms in Tokyo are like small museums and most
have hands-on displays and test-drives all for free. Auto enthusiasts will love Toyota Mega Web (p132) in Odaiba,
and just about everyone will find something intriguing at the Sony Building (p61) in Ginza. Other showrooms can be
found in Ginza, Shinjuku and Harajuku.
Tsukiji Market
Wander the worlds biggest fish market (p64) for hours at no cost.
Skyscrapers
Several skyscrapers have free observation floors, eg Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (Tokyo Toch; p116),
Shinjuku Sumitomo Building (p118) and Tokyo Big Sight (Tokyo International Exhibition Centre; p133).

WEST SHINJUKU Even if you are unable to make it to a

(NISHI-SHINJUKU)
TOKYO OPERA CITY Map p116
%5353-0770; www.operacity.jp; 3-20-2 Nishi-
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bKeio New Line to
Hatsudai (north exit)
Since opening in 1997, Tokyo Opera City
has been recognised as one of the worlds
most acoustically perfect concert halls,
and this in a city that embraces classical
music with fervour. Its also one of the most
architecturally daring, like a giant indoor
A-frame.
114
concert in Tokyo, Opera City is called home
by two of Tokyos best art spaces. The
two storeys of the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery
(%5353-0756; www.operacity.jp/ag; 3rd fl; admis-
TRANSPORT: SHINJUKU
Train The JR Yamanote Line, JR Ch Line and sev-
eral other commuter lines stop at Shinjuku Station.
The private Keio and Odaky Lines come in handy
for destinations west of the Yamanote Line.
Metro The Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku and Toei
edo Lines run through Shinjuku.
Bookshops
Unlike some other countries, in Japan no one will object to you spending hours reading books and magazines on
display in bookshops. Theres even a word for the practice: yomitachi (a standing read). See Tokyos Bookshops (p143)
for listings.
sion varies by exhibition; h11am-7pm Tue-Thu & Sun, and technology. Its superlative video library
11am-8pm Fri & Sat) showcase work by new and includes important works by artists such as
Idemitsu Mako, Bill Viola and Nam June Paik,
established Japanese artists. Meanwhile the
while installations on display include dreamy
NTT Intercommunication Centre (ICC; %0120-144-199;
www.ntticc.or.jp; 4th fl; adult 800, student 600-400; pieces such as works by Laurie Anderson,
or Mikami Seikos World, Membrane and the
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) has an excellent collec-
tion of cutting-edge works and installations Dismembered Body, designed especially for
the museums eerie, echo-free chamber.
that address the myriad intersections of art
115
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
SHINJUKU 0 0.3 miles SHINJUKU
INFORMATION Kinokuniya .......................20 C3 Bar Plastic Model
Across Travellers Bureau Kinokuniya .......................21 C2 ......... 38 D2
Higashi-
shinjuku .......................... 1 B3 Sakuraya ...........................22 C2 Bon's ....................................... 39 D2

in Line
Ch Li
Citibank ...................... 2 B3 Sakuraya ...........................23 C2 Clubhouse ............. 40 D2
Kabukich Manga@Caf Gera Gera Sekaid ................................. 24 Dubliners .................41 C2

Fukutosh
D2

ne

47 Bu ..................... 3 C1 Tky Hands ...............25 C3 Garam .....................................42 C2
nka
Kita-Shinjuku No 1 Travel Yodobashi Camera GB........................................................... 43 D2

Se
Seibu nt
3 -d ................. 4 Kinswomyn ............ 44 D2

ri
5 Shinjuku
33 ri C2 .............................26 B2

o -d
Nishi-
Shinjuku-ku Sakura House ........... 5 C1 La Jete ................... 45 D2

R d al
shinjuku 55

ush
tr
Golden New York Grill and Bar

Cen
Shinjuku Main Post Office EATING (pp14974)

ya k
45 Gai
1 42 38 ............................... 6 B2 Christon Caf 27 D2 ................ (see 53)

Ku
30 4 7 50
Shinjuku
Island me - kaid 23 Yasu 39
11 56
Shinjuku Ward Office Sky Bar Polestar

Gyoen-dr
Tower Shinjuku- kun
i-d Imahan ........................................28 C3
13 nishiguchi 8 ri 27 ........................................ 7 C2 Isetan ................................... (see 19) ....... (see 52)
48 31
ri
Kita-d Studio Alta Building Kinkantei ..................... 29 D2
Season R

22 21
Shinjuku 17 SLEEPING (pp20116)
............................... 8

i
Toch-

Mitsui Shinjuku 57 C2 Kushiya-monogatari .........................30 C2

Building Centre West My East ku Line City Hotel Lonestar
Shinjuku Exit City Exit 19 nju Tokyo Tourist Information Center
Building
Exit 40 Shi New York Grill ......... 46 D2
dri

ei
d

Sumitomo
51 Building do Line
Odaky Central 41 T 29 ................. 9 A2 ................ (see 53)
Tochmae Tei e Shinjuku Exit
18 34 36 44 Green Plaza Shinjuku
Nishi-Shinjuku SHINJUKU Shinjuku-
Omoide-yokoch ......31 C2 ...................47 C1
Gijido-d

sanchme 37
9 Tokyo 15 52 43 46 SIGHTS (pp1147)
Shinjuku Metropolitan Kei Southeast 24 Shinjuku- Park Hyatt Delicatessen Hilton Tokyo ...........48 A2
Ch-ken Government 6 26 Shinjuku Exit Shinjuku- nichme Greenhouse ........................................ 10 D3
 Hotel Century Southern Tower
ri

Offices sanchme Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono

Tei Shinjuku New South 
.............................. (see 53)
2
Exit Shinjuku Shinjuku- Shrine) ........................... 11 D2
Takashimaya Times Square .................................49 C3
Ken-d

Shinjuku 1 gyoenmae
NS Building KDD Japanese Sword Museum
Building Shinjuku ..........32 C3 Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku
id Southern 32 ..................................... 12 A4
St -Ka 10 ............. 50 D2
ri

ay's Terrace 28
One D sh NTT Intercommunication
K 35 25 14 ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590) Hyatt Regency Tokyo
Mayndz Centre..............................................(see 16) 
Tower 49
Sompo Japan Museum of Art Loft ..........................................33 C1
.............................51 A2
53 Yoyogi
Shinjuku-gyoen
(Shinjuku Park)
13 B2 New National Theatre Kei Plaza Hotel
20 54
Teahouse ............................................. 14 D3 ................................... (see 16) ........................ 52 B2
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Shinjuku Pit Inn
Park Hyatt Tokyo
Offices .............................15 B2 ............................ 34 D2 ..............53 A3
Space Zero .............. 35 B3
M

Tokyo Opera City

eij

Yoyogi Shinjuku Park Hotel

i-d

16 Minami- ....................... 16 A4 ........................54 C3

ri

Shinjuku
Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery.......(see 16) DRINKING (pp17590)
Shinjuku Prince Hotel
Toto Super Space...............................17 B2 Advocates Caf ...................55 C1
.................. 36 D2 Tokyo Business Hotel
Shibuya-ku SHOPPING (pp13548) Albatross .............. (see 31) .................. 56 D2
12
Disk Union .....18 C2 Arty Farty
Hanazono-jinja Flea Market .................. 37 D2 TRANSPORT (pp23744)
Sendagaya
Meiji-jing ..(see 11) Aurora Lounge Shinjuku West Exit Bus Terminal
See Harajuku &
(Meiji Shrine)
Aoyama Map p110 Isetan ..................................... 19 D2 ..................... (see 52) ......... 57 B2

TOKYO METROPOLITAN you of a computer-chip version of the great preserve the feudal art of Japanese sword- The private museum of the Sompo Japan
GOVERNMENT OFFICES Map p116 cathedrals of Europe. Theres even a rose making. There are about 120 swords with insurance company concentrates most
window, only this being Tokyo the rose their fittings in the collection, of which heavily on the lithography, sculpture and
%5321-1111; 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; is replaced by a gingko leaf, in honour of about a third are on view at any one time. painting of Tg Seiji (18971980), whose
admission free; hobservatories 9.30am-11pm, the citys official tree. With several modern The museum also showcases crafts of subjects, most often women, resemble
north observatory closed 2nd & 4th Mon of the sculptures scattered about, this is a good tempering and polishing steel. Its loca- luminescent anime figures set against
month, south observatory closed 1st & 3rd Tue spot for a picnic lunch. tion, in a residential neighbourhood, is backdrops that hover between cubist and
of the month; bToei edo Line to Tochmae, not obvious, but if you ask for the Token Art Deco. Tg was closely associated with
(exit A3) JAPANESE SWORD MUSEUM Hakubutsukan, someone should be able to the Sompo Japans forerunner, Yasuda Fire
Known as Tokyo Toch, this grey granite Map p116 help you. & Marine Insurance Company, and donated
complex designed by Tange Kenz has many of his works to the museum. The
stunning, distinctive architecture and great %3379-1386; 4-25-10 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; SOMPO JAPAN MUSEUM OF ART museum also caused a stir back in the
views from the observatories (%5320-7890) adult/student 525/315; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; Map p116 1980s bubble, when it famously purchased
on the 45th floor of the twin towers of bKeio New Line to Hatsudai (east exit) Van Goghs Sunflowers for a cool 5 billion;
Building 1. On a clear day, look west for In 1948, after American forces returned %5777-8600; www.sompo-japan.co.jp/museum there are also a limited number of works
a glimpse of Mt Fuji. Back on the ground, the swords (katana) theyd confiscated /english/index.html; 42nd fl, 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, by Gauguin, Czanne and Van Gogh. The
stand in the Citizens Plaza and look up at during the postwar occupation, the Min- Shinjuku-ku; adult/student 500/300; h10am- museums 42nd floor location also affords
Building 1 and see if it does not remind istry of Education established a society to 6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Shinjuku (west exit) excellent views.

116 117
lonelyplanet.com

WEST SHINJUKU p117), located on the 42nd floor of the Sompo

EAST SHINJUKU (SHINJUKU) kuni-dri. On Sunday the grounds become

lonelyplanet.com
Building, is known mainly for its purchase a marketplace (h8am-4pm), where youll
KABUKICH Map p116
(NISHI-SHINJUKU) of Van Goghs Sunflowers for a whopping 5
billion. Although the famous painting is the
find bargains on knick-knacks and, possibly,
some antiques.
Walking Tour undoubtable highlight, the museum focuses bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit)
Looking up as you walk the streets of Nishi- on the largely figurative work of Japanese art- Tokyos most notorious red-light district, SHINJUKU-GYEN (SHINJUKU PARK)
Shinjuku may put a kink in your neck, while ist Tg Seiji. which lies east of Shinjuku Station and Map p116
peering down from those skyscrapers will north of Yasukuni-dri, is made up of
make your jaw drop (smog willing). Within 3 Pentax Forum ( soaplands (massage parlours), love hotels,
%3350-0151; www.shinjukugyoen.go.jp; 11
these towering structures lie delights as un- ) Even non-photography buffs will appre- peep shows, pink cabarets, porn booths, Naito-ch, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child under 6/6-15 yrs
expected as a toilet gallery, the worlds largest ciate the photo exhibits at this gallery (%3348- prostitutes and strip shows, all well at- 200/free/50; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bMaru-
pendulum clock and Matisse originals. 2941; 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinjuku; h10.30am-6.30pm), on the tended by drunken salarymen out for the nouchi Line to Shinjuku-gyenmae (exit 1)
1st floor of the Shinjuku Mitsui building. For night. Female voices wail out invitations, Though Shinjuku-gyen was designed as
1 Shinjuku L Tower (L) For true camera buffs, however, the best part is while Japanese (and, increasingly, foreign) an imperial retreat (completed 1906), its
anyone interested in test-driving the latest the vast array of Pentax cameras, lenses and punks eke out a living passing out ads for now definitively a park for everyone. The
in bidet technology, the Shinjuku L Tower is other optical equipment on display. Its com- karaoke boxes and peep shows. Remark- wide lawns and diverse design (the gar-
home to the Toto Super Space (%3345-1010; 1-6-1 pletely hands-on you can snap away with the ably, the area is generally safe (and much den applies French, English and Japanese
Nishi-Shinjuku; h10am-6pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon), a high- cameras and spy into neighbouring buildings more interesting) to walk through at night, horticultural principles) make it a favourite
tech bathroom showcase scenically perched on through the huge 1000mm lenses. though its wise to go with a friend or for urbanites in need of a quick escape. To
the buildings 26th and 27th floors. Although more or you may find yourself the object make an afternoon of it, head for the east
Japan first-timers may be initially resistant to 4 Shinjuku Sumitomo Building ( of unwanted, and irritating, attention (both side where the glassed-in greenhouse displays
the, um, invasiveness of the spray, our recom- ) Although this hollowed-out building for males and females). However, most subtropical waterlilies the size of party
mendation is simply to relax your muscles and is home to a large jewellery mall and a general places are aimed solely at Japanese clients, platters. Alternatively, park yourself in the
give in to the warm rush of water. shopping centre, the real attraction is the free hence foreigners are not permitted in most southern part of the park in the traditional
observation platform on the 51st floor. Stop places. teahouse. Expect lots of company during
2 Sompo Japan Museum of Art ( by for a quick birds-eye view of the urban cherry-blossom season; however, Shinjuku
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU
) The Sompo Japan jungle that is Shinjuku. GOLDEN GAI Map p116 Park is easily one of the top sakura-viewing
Museum of Art (for more information see spots in Tokyo.
5 Tokyo Metropolitan Government bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit B3)
Offices () By now youve no doubt This ramshackle block of tiny botes became
WALK FACTS noticed the towering Tokyo Metropolitan golden just in time for the 64 Olympics. By EAST SHINJUKU (SHINJUKU)
Government Offices (for more information
Start Shinjuku-nishiguchi (west exit)
End Tochmae subway station see p116) where some 13,000 government
day, theres not much going on here except
for dozens of stray cats. But by night, the
Walking Tour
workers sweat over the administrative paper- This walking tour is best begun about an hour
Distance 3km closet-sized bars, some accessed by stair- before dusk falls, when youll observe the per-
Time Two hours work of running Tokyo in these buildings. The ways steep enough to bruise your shins as
Citizens Plaza features shops, restaurants, a ceptible change of East Shinjukus day life
Fuel Stop Park Hyatt Delicatessen you ascend, light and fill up, mostly with turn over to night. The neon burns brighter
passport section and, curiously, a blood dona- off-duty office workers. Theres been much
tion room, though the views from the 45th- against the darkening sky, and the seedier
j
speculation about the demise of Golden side of Kabukich likewise comes into sharper
WEST SHINJUKU (NISHI-SHINJUKU) floor observation platform in Building No 1 Gais rickety structures and narrow alley-
0 200 m are some of the best in the city. contrast.
0 0.1 miles ways, but for the moment it seems a new
Shinjuku generation is buying in and quietly setting 1 Kinokuniya Bookshop ()
Island Shinjuku-
nishiguchi
6 Shinjuku NS Building (NS) If up shop.
Tower 2
youre in the mood for a bit of eccentric high This popular bookshop (%3354-0131; 3-17-7 Shinjuku;
ri 1
Kita-d 3
Season R

Shinjuku
START
tech, the interior of this building, is hollow, h10am-8pm) is a great time-killer. Here, you
Toch-

4
Centre
Building
West
Exit like the Sumitomo building and features a HANAZONO-JINJA (HANAZONO can pop in to browse its superb collection of
SHRINE) Map p116
d

END foreign-language books and magazines on

dri

Tochmae
1600-sq-metre area from which you can gaze
upward at the transparent roof. Overhead, at the 7th floor. And of course, this being Japan,
Gijido-d

5 Kei 110m, is a sky bridge. The square itself features %3200-3093; 5-17 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; no one will say anything to you if you decide
Shinjuku
a 29m pendulum clock, listed by the Guinness h24hr; bMarunouchi or Shinjuku Line to to spend an hour or so reading something
ri

Shinjuku
Ch-
ken Tei Shinjuku Book of Records as the largest in the world. Shinjuku-sanchme (exit B3 or B5) without buying it.
Ken-d

6 KDD During the day merchants from nearby

Building
aid
7 Park Hyatt Delicatessen ( Kabukich come to this Shint shrine to 2 Isetan Building () Packed
-K
ri

One D
ay's St
K sh ) If youre looking pray for the solvency of their business ven- to the gills with fashionable boutiques and
Mayndz
Tower for a rewarding nosh, the Park Hyatt Delica- tures, but at night the spotlights come on, trendy shops, this shopping mecca draws
Yoyogi tessen (see p170 for more information) could legions of high school kids and salarymen in crowds of fashionable Tokyoites ready
7
easily compete with the best Jewish delis in show up, and action spills over from nearby to spend big. You can balance out your re-
New York. Golden Gai and from further-away Yasu- tail therapy by browsing the Isetan Art Gallery
118 119
lonelyplanet.com

district that its clientele can make for some

lonelyplanet.com
EAST SHINJUKU (SHINJUKU)
0 200 m interesting people-watching. The shrine has I K E BU K U RO
0 0.1 miles
a reputation for bringing success to business
ventures both legit and not-so. Eating p171; Shopping p146; Sleeping p214
Higashi-
shinjuku Never quite part of Shitamachi and in the postwar years the site of an enormous, gang-
Kabukich 4 Golden Gai () This intimate controlled black market, Ikebukuro seemed destined to be the sleaziest of the three main Ya-

5 district (for more information see p119) is lit- manote hubs. However, somehow Ikebukuro managed to evolve into a well-grounded, work-

ne
Bu
tle more than a warren of alleyways devoted ing-class neighbourhood that feels wonderfully lived in. Perhaps this is because the rents have

shin Li
nka
nt
entirely to small, stand-up watering holes. stayed relatively stable, and young families, students and senior citizens have been able to set
Se

Seibu
ri
6 -d
o -d

Fukuto
Shinjuku ri
Traditionally the haunt of bohemian Tokyo- up shop here without going broke.
Rd

ush

Golden
t r al

Gai
ites, its deserted by day, but can be great fun Significantly overshadowed by the glitz and glam of Shibuya and Shinjuku, Ikebukuro lacks
ya k
Cen

4
Ku

Shinjuku- 3
at night. Its said that the block is gradually a definable character, though developers have been quick to capitalise on the neighbourhoods
nishiguchi Yasu
kun
i-d
ri Gyoen-dri
being bought up by Seibu department store, up-and-coming status. Ikebukuro is currently home to two of the worlds biggest department
but for now Golden Gai hangs tight. stores, Tbu (p146) and Seibu (p146), as well as an entire complex built around one of the tallest
East 1 buildings in Asia, Sunshine City (below).
Exit 2 Shinjuku-
West
Exit START/ sanchme 5 Kabukich () Despite its repu- The bright lights of Shinjuku are to the south, to the east are quiet lowland residential districts
END
tation as Tokyos notorious red-light district and to the west are Tokyos more remote wards.
(for more information see p119), Kabukich is The JR Yamanote Line runs smack through the middle of the district, dividing Ikebukuro
a relatively safe area to stroll around, though into east and west. Like Shinjuku, Ikebukuros east and west sides have different identities: the
being aimed solely at Japanese clients, most west end has the lions share of bars and good restaurants, while the east is home to the tower-
of what goes on in these environs is pretty ing Sunshine City complex.
WALK FACTS much off-limits to foreigners. Nevertheless,
Kabukich has everything from soaplands
Start Shinjuku-nishiguchi (east exit) (massage parlours) and peep shows to porno-
End Shinjuku-nishiguchi video booths and strip shows that involve SUNSHINE CITY Map p122
Distance 2km audience participation.
NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU

Time Two hours
6 Koma Theatre () This enormous
theatre started off as a cinema, but quickly
(admission free; hvary) on the 5th floor, which switched to stage shows, and today hosts per-
hosts print, ceramic and fine art exhibits by formances of a more mainstream variety than
Japanese artists. those elsewhere in Kabukich. The square
facing the Koma is ringed by cinemas, and is
3 Hanazono-Jinja () This shrine also a popular busking spot at night, though
(for more information see p119) nestles so yakuza (mafia) are usually quick about mov-
close to Tokyos most infamous red-light ing anyone too popular along.
NEIGHBOURHOODS IKEBUKURO
%3989-3331; bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro (east exit)
A complex of four buildings dedicated to commerce, Sunshine City ironically stands on the former site of Sugamo
Prison where General Tojo, and others deemed Class-A war criminals by occupying forces, were executed. However,
all echoes of that past are gone now, and this city within a building is now focused on that quintessential Japanese
pastime: shopping.
If retail therapy isnt your thing, the complex includes Sunshine 60, an office tower and one of the tallest buildings in
Japan (the 60 refers to the number of floors). Whats billed as the worlds second-fastest lift whisks you to the top-floor
observatory and sky deck (adult/child 620/310; h10am-9.30pm) where you can gaze out at the Lego blockesque
buildings below or perhaps Tokyos horizon beyond.
On the top floor of the World Import Mart building is the Sunshine International Aquarium (%3989-3466;
adult/child 1800/900; h10am-6pm), home to more than 20,000 fish, while on the same floor the planetarium at
the Sunshine Starlight Dome (%3989-3475; adult/child 800/500; hnoon-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6.30pm Sat
& Sun) is a nice diversion for space heads (shows in Japanese only). If you plan to visit more than one of these three
venues, discounted combination tickets are available.
Families with kids may want to visit Namco Namjatown (%5950-0765; 2nd fl, World Import Mart bldg;
adult/child 300/200; h10am-10pm). Namjatown is owned by the arcade-game company Namco, which should
tell you all you need to know about one half of the activities here (it can be pretty cacophonous!). The other half
consists of three food theme parks. In the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium, 23 vendors from all over Japan compete for
your business with their version of pan-fried dumplings. Denizens of the Tokyo Chou Crme Hatake peddle dozens
of varieties of cream puffs, while Ice Cream City showcases innovative takes on the worlds favourite dessert
check out the Cup Ice Museum, displaying packaged ice cream in flavours from vanilla and chocolate to octopus
and grilled eggplant.
Finally, on the 7th floor of the Bunka Kaikan Centre youll find the quiet Ancient Orient Museum (%3989-3491;
admission 500; h10am-5pm). It displays art and antiquities, sculpture and fragments, amulets and idols from Iran,
Iraq, Uzbekistan and especially Syria. Exhibits change every six months; there are about 600 pieces on display at any
one time.

120 121
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
IKEBUKURO 0 0.3 miles IKEBUKURO
INFORMATION Sunshine City Sasash .................................... (see 38)
Across Travellers Bureau .................. 14 D2 Seibu ......................................... (see 24)

S hu
Gekij-dri
.......................... 1 C2 Sunshine International Aquarium Taverna ..............................32 A5

to
Kami-

Ex
Ikebukuro Ikebukuro Post Office 2 B1 ....... (see 14)

pw
Ikebukuro ENTERTAINMENT (pp17590)

y
International Medical Center of Sunshine Starlight Dome
Toshima-ku

No
4 Jazz Spot Intro
Japan .... 3 B6 

5
To Shamaim 45
2 Higashi- Kimi Information Center  ................ (see 14) ..........33 A5
(1km)
Sa k a ri Ikebukuro .. 4 B1 Tokyo Chou Crme Hatake Tokyo Metropolitan Art Space
shita-dri Tokiwa-d ri

Bunka-dri
44 i-d

........... (see 13) ..................................34 B2
eij No 1 Travel
48 M 9 Waseda Shochiku ...... 35 B6
38 ................. 5 B2
42 1
254
SHOPPING
Police ........................................ 6 B2 (pp13548)
6 17
Bic Camera .............. 15 B2 DRINKING (pp17590)
Ikebukuro Azale 36 18 Ka
su STA Travel
16
a-d
r i ga Bobby's Bar ............. 36 B2
Tbu 23 22 21 -d
ri ............ 7 B3 Bic Camera ..............16 C2
27 5 Dubliners ............ 37 B2
Ikebukuro Seibu Toshima Post Office ....8 D2 Bic Camera (Main Store)
Nishi-guchi-ken
25
Ikebukuro Sasash ....................................... 38 B1
Nishi-Ikebukuro IKEBUKURO 15 Toshima-ku Tourist Information ........................17 C2
ri
ken
Metropolitan e 60-d 26 Bic Camera PC Store
34 Exit
24
S un
shin 46 8 Center  ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
37 20 Fukutoshin 13
PC ............18 C2
........................................(see 23) Conversation Caf Mickey House
14
Gr
12 ee 10 Toshima-ku Ward Office Blue Parrot .........19 A5 ..........39 A5
Nishi- n-
Ikebukuro 41 Seibu Fuku
d
ri HMV ................. 20 B2
........................................ 9 C1 Sendagaya Japanese Institute
tosh
11 in Lin
e Loft ....................................... (see 24) .....40 A6
Minami- SIGHTS (pp1214) Mandarake ................. 21 D2
Ikebukuro SLEEPING (pp20116)
7 ken Ancient Orient Museum Mitsukoshi .................................22 C2
.............. 10 D2 Parco .......................................23 C2 Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel
Sh
Minami- ut
o Cup Ice Museum Seibu ............................................ 24 B2 .............. 41 B2
Ikebukuro Ex
pw ................(see 13) Tbu ............................................. 25 B2 Hotel Strix Tokyo
y Higashi-ikebukuro .......... 42 B2
No Ice Cream City Tky Hands ...............26 C2
305 5 Hotel Sunroute Takadanobaba
Zshigaya
.......(see 13)
Satomi .....43 A6
Building Ikebukuro Bsai-kan EATING (pp14974)
NEIGHBOURHOODS IKEBUKURO

NEIGHBOURHOODS IKEBUKURO
House Ikebukuro .......44 A1
..................................... 11 A2 Akiyoshi ......................................27 A2
M ei

Zshigaya Rei-en Kimi Ryokan ..................... 45 B1

j i- d

(Zshigaya Cemetery) Japan Traditional Craft Center Ben's Caf ................28 A6

Sunshine City Prince Hotel
.....12 B2 Gyros Hero .... 29 B6
ri


Namco Namjatown Ikebukuro Gyza Stadium ............. 46 D2
............................ 13 D2 ........... (see 13) Tama Ryokan ................... 47 B6
Mejiro
Mejiro Sunshine 60 Building Kao Tai ..............................30 A5 Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi No.1
Zoshigaya 60 ..............(see 14) Marmara ................................31 A5 ..........................................48 C1
Mej
iro-
d ri
Kishibojinmae

To Gokoku-ji IKEBUKURO BSAI-KAN JAPAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT CENTER

(600m)
(IKEBUKURO EARTHQUAKE HALL) Map p122
ine

Gakushin Map p122

L
shin

University
%5954-6066; www.kougei.or.jp/english/center
uto

%3590-6565; 2-37-8 Nishi-Ikebukuro, .html; 1st fl, Metropolitan Plaza Bldg, 1-11-1 Nishi
Fuk

Tshima-ku; admission free; h9am-5pm Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; admission free; h11am-

Gakush-in-shita
Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Wed of the month; bJR 7pm; bJR Yamanote Line or Marunouchi Line to
Mej
Shin
iro-d
ri Yamanote Line or Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro Ikebukuro (Metropolitan exit)
-Me
jiro-
dri
(Metropolitan exit) Operated by the Japanese Ministry
Nishi-
Waseda
Quick: what should you do in case of an of Economy, Trade and Industry, this
33
earthquake? What if your house is on fire? showroom is less a museum and more
31 32 This facility operated by the Tokyo Fire
Takadanobaba 30
39 Omokagebashi Department prepares you for these and
Tode
Takadanobaba
19 n Arak
awa
Stree
other disasters by means of videos (avail- TRANSPORT: IKEBUKURO
43
Takadanobaba
29 Waseda tcar able in English) and incredibly realistic

University
Shinjuku-ku Waseda simulations; its hard not to be rattled Train Ikebukuro is one of the hubs of the JR
35
28
47 once the room starts a-shaking. A visit Yamanote Line, and the terminus of the Tbu and
here is important preparation if youre Seibu commuter lines.
planning on living in Japan. Even if youre
-dri

40
Metro The Marunouchi Line terminates at
not, its an important insight into a pos-
Meiji

Ikebukuro, while the Yrakuch Line also runs

sibility thats never far from the mind of through it.
3
any Japanese.
Nishi-waseda
Toyamaken

122 123
lonelyplanet.com

a valuable resource for working artisans GOKOKU-JI (GOKOKU TEMPLE)

and crafts collectors. Youll find on dis-
play more than 130 different types of
crafts, ranging from lacquerwork boxes
to paper, textiles to earthy pottery. You
can also buy much the same from the
discriminating collection. If youve had
the misfortune to break your favourite
ceramic cup or damage your kimono, the
centre also conducts repair clinics (which
are housed inside the massive Metropoli-
tan Plaza building). Also see p146 for more
information.
Map pp489
%3941-0764; admission free; hdawn to dusk;
bYrakuch Line to Gokokuji (exit 1)
Declared an Important Cultural Property,
this temple gets surprisingly few visitors.
One of the few surviving Edo temples, it
dates from 1680, and was built by the fifth
Tokugawa shgun for his mother. Exiting
the temple grounds and turning to the left,
youll reach Toshimagaoka Goryo, an imper-
ial mausoleum that is closed to the public.
lonelyplanet.com
SUM I DA R I V E R
Eating p173
The area east of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River), which is relatively off the radar screens of
most foreign visitors, is more a collection of distinct districts than it is one single unit. Even so,
there are a few noteworthy attractions for anyone interested in getting off the beaten path and
exploring the varying faces of the Sumida-gawa. Of particular note is Rygoku (below), the centre
of sum culture, with its large number of sum heya (stables). Also, the nearby Edo-Tokyo
Museum (below), which gives a marvellous presentation of city history, is always a big hit with
anyone looking for a glimpse of old Edo.
To the south, the neighbourhoods of Kiyosumi and Fukagawa retain a Shitamachi feel not gussied
up for tourist consumption, with some wonderful old gardens and temples. Stroll Eitai-dri east of
Monzen-nakach Station on the 1st, 15th and 28th of each month for a street market with lots of
local colour. Kiyosumi is also where youll find the Museum of Contemporary Art (p127), a remark-
able building with consistently smart exhibitions. Perhaps because of this museum, or because rents
remain relatively low, private galleries from other parts of Tokyo have begun to move here.
Rygoku is a quick train ride from Akihabara or a quick taxi ride from Asakusa. Kiyosumi
and Fukagawa are neighbours on the south side in Kt-ku, just across the Sumida-gawa from
Ginza.

RYGOKU KOKUGIKAN Map p126 stone, carved with the names of each of
these champion wrestlers. Also of note are
www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html; 1-3-28 Yokoami, two treasured mikoshi (portable shrines),
Sumida-ku; admission free; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; used in the Fukagawa Hachiman festival in
bJR Sbu or Toei edo Line to Rygoku (main exit) mid-August. The current mikoshi date from
Just north of Rygoku Station is this sum 1991, and are encrusted with diamonds
NEIGHBOURHOODS IKEBUKURO

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

stadium with its adjoining Sum Museum
(%3622-0366). Fifteen-day tournaments
(basho) take place here three times a year
(January, May and September) while three
other tournaments are held in other cities
in March, July and November. Together,
these basho decide who will be the yoko-
zuna or grand champion.
Although small, the museum displays a
rotating selection of interesting artefacts of
sum history and art (mostly wood-block
prints). When sum tournaments are on at
the stadium, only those holding tickets to
the matches can enter the museum.
For details on watching tournaments, see
p197. For details on eating chanko-nabe, the
delicious and nutritious stew that is con-
sumed in massive quantities by sum wres-
tlers, see the listing for Tomoegata on p173.
TOMIOKA HACHIMANG (TOMIOKA
HACHIMAN SHRINE) Map p126
the sum district but is slightly less convenient to
%3462-1315; 1-20-3 Tomioka, Kt-ku; admis-
sion free; bTzai or Toei edo Line to Monzen-
nakach (exit 1)
Next door to Fukagawa Fud-d, this large
shrine dates from 1627, and is closely asso-
ciated with the world of sum. Around the
back of the main building is the yokozuna
124
and rubies look in the eyes of the phoe-
nix and other birds on top.
A flea market takes place here on the
15th and 28th of most months, from
around 8am to sunset.
EDO-TOKYO MUSEUM Map p126
%3626-9974; www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/eng
lish; 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child 600/
free, student 300-450; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue,
Wed, Sat & Sun, 9.30am-8pm Thu & Fri; bToei
edo or JR Sbu Line to Rygoku (main exit)
This massive, futuristic building is by far
the best city-history museum weve ever
TRANSPORT: SUMIDA-GAWA
(SUMIDA RIVER)
Train The JR Sbu Line is a main approach to
Rygoku. It is the most convenient access to
the Edo-Tokyo Museum.
Metro The Toei edo Line connects the Rygoku,
Kiyosumi and Fukagawa districts via Rygoku,
Kiyosumi-Shirakawa and Monzen-Nakach Stations.
The Hanzmon and Tzai Lines also serve the last
two stations, respectively.
125
lonelyplanet.com

This marvellous garden was the first ART GALLERIES Map p126

lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
SUMIDA RIVER 0 0.2 miles
location to be designated a site of scenic 1-3-2 Kiyosumi, Kt-ku; bHanzmon or Toei
beauty by the Tokyo Metropolitan Gov- edo Line to Kiyosumi Shirakawa (exit A3)
ernment and its easy to see why. The An increasing number of galleries are
Sumida-ku origins of Kiyosumi Garden date back to
moving out of Central Tokyo to an edgy
Yokomai-ken 1721 as a villa for a daimy. Although space such as you might expect in New
13 (Yokoami
Park) the villa itself was destroyed in the 1923 York or Los Angeles. The building faces
5
Asakusabashi 11
2
earthquake, the property thereafter was the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) on one
9
Rygoku
purchased by Iwasaki Yatar, founder of side and a cement plant on the other, and
SIGHTS (pp1259) the Mitsubishi Corporation. He was able downstairs are loading docks for a depart-
Rygoku Bash Kinenkan (Bash Museum) to use company ships to transport prize
10
.................................................1 B3
ment store. But no matter: the gallery
Ryogok
Rygoku
Keiydri Edo-Tokyo Museum
stones to here from all over Japan count owners present some of the citys most
ubashi
...................................... 2 C1 all 50 (theyre numbered). Theyre set cutting-edge work. Galleries are on the
Bakuroyokoyama Fukagawa Edo Museum around a pond ringed with Japanese black 5th to 7th floors. Taka Ishii Gallery (
Kodenmach ...................................... 3 C4
Fukagawa Fud-d (Fukugawa pine, hydrangeas, Taiwan cherries and ; %5646-6050; www.takaishii
Fudo Temple) ................... 4 C5 other plants designed to bloom at differ- gallery.com; free entry), Shugoarts (
Kant Earthquake Memorial ent times of the year.
Ch-ku Museum ............... 5 C1 ; %5621-6434; www.shugoarts.com; free entry)
Higashi- Higashinihombashi Museum of Contemporary Art, and Tomio Koyama Gallery (
nihombashi
Tokyo ....................6 D4 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, ; %3462-4090; www.tomiokoyamagallery
12 Ryogoku Kokugikan ...(see 13)
Hamach
Kikugawa
Shugoarts ................. (see 7)
TOKYO Map p126 .com; free entry) should give you a good start.
1
h i
Taka Ishii Gallery Check for exhibitions and opening hours
has Morishita
Shi
n-
7 .........................7 B3 MOT; %5245-4111; www.mot-art-museum.jp; 4- before setting out.
Tomio Koyama Gallery
Shin-hashi
..................... (see 7) 1-1 Miyoshi, Kt-ku; adult/child 500/free, student
Ningych
Tomioka Hachimang (Tomioka Hachiman 250-400; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bHanzmon FUKAGAWA FUD-D (FUKUGAWA
Shrine) ................................ 8 C5 or Toei edo Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit B2) FUD TEMPLE) Map p126
wa)

SHOPPING (pp13548) Dedicated to showcasing postwar artists

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

a- ga

Yoshitoku ............................................. 9 A1 and designers from Japan and abroad, MOT Fukagawa Fud Hall; %3461-8288; 1-17-13
mid

also holds some 3800 pieces exhibited in

(Su

Kiy
osu EATING (pp14974) Tomioka, Kt-ku; admission free; bTzai or Toei
-ba rotation in its permanent collection gallery, edo Line to Monzen-nakach (exit 1)
ri

shi Kiyosumi shirakawa Tomoegata ........................................10 B2

-d

14
by the likes of David Hockney, Sam Francis
i

ver

The history of this giant temple dates from

has

Shirakawa
Ri
n-

3 and Andy Warhol, as well as Japanese art- 1703 as a sub-temple of Shinsh-ji in the
da

Kiyosumi-
Shi

mi

Teien
ists such as Yok Tadanori. The buildings
Su

Nihombashi
Eitaib
ashi
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
Bike Hire ...............................11 B1
Ch-ku Sg Sports Centre
.......12 B3
Rygoku Kokugikan ........13 B1
TRANSPORT (pp23744)
Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT)
............14 B4
encountered. The permanent collection on
the upper floors starts with a reconstruction
of half of the bridge at Nihombashi (p54), on
either side of which are thorough histories
of Edo and Tokyo respectively, mostly with
excellent English signage. Highlights are too
numerous to mention, but we like the sec-
tions on the lodgings of the daimy, wood-
block printing, the evolution of kabuki and
Tokyos headlong rush to Westernise. There
126
(Kiyosumi
Gardens)
city of Narita, one of the head temples
6 stone, steel and wood architecture by Yana- of Shingon Buddhism. The main image,
gisawa Takahiko is a work of art in its own which is housed in a recently constructed
Hirano
Sumidagawa-hashi right highlights include a sunken garden, inner hall, is Fudmy, a venerable Buddha
Metropolitan
Bridge
Kiba Park V-shaped structural supports, and a water depicted in murals by Nakajima Chinami
and stone promenade. (2004). On the 2nd floor is a gallery depict-
Fukugawa
Sendaiborigawa River The museum is located in Metropolitan ing all 88 temples of the 1400km pilgrim-
Kiba Park. It takes about 10 well-signposted
age route on the island of Shikoku it is
Kiba-ken minutes on foot from the subway station. said that offering a prayer at each alcove
Park
Kiba
4
Yasuda
Monzen-
nakach
Eit
ai-
d
ri
8 Kiyosumi
Garden
VISITING A SUM STABLE
Sum stables, called heya or beya in Japanese, are where the sumtori (wrestlers) live and train. There are over 50
heya in Rygoku, along with shops catering to their clothing needs as well as restaurants. Unfortunately, heya are not
normally in the business of hosting guests, but a few of them occasionally open to allow visitors to observe training
are often special exhibits, but the extent of sessions. Some things to know:
the permanent collection is usually enough Times of visits are limited. Stables close during tournaments and for one to three weeks immediately before or after.
to overwhelm most visitors. Training usually begins around 6am and finishes by 10am, with the lower-rank wrestlers training earliest. The
best time to see the wrestlers is usually around 8.30am. For most visitors, a half-hour visit is sufficient.
KIYOSUMI TEIEN (KIYOSUMI Most heya prefer visits arranged in advance. Ask at tourist information offices or check out www.sumo.or.jp for
GARDEN) Map p126 information on which heya are open and how to arrange a visit, and do not be a no-show or cancel at the last
minute.
%3641-5892; 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kt-ku; adult/child/ Discipline is a key element of sum training, and you should also exercise discipline as a visitor. Sit quietly outside
senior 150/free/70; h9am-5pm; bToei edo or the dohy (ring) and do not make noise or take photographs without permission.
Hanzmon Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit A3)
127
lonelyplanet.com

museum, you can see some scrolls of poetry

lonelyplanet.com
2nd & 4th Mon of the month; bToei edo or
MATSUO BASH written by Bash and those inspired by him, Hanzmon Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit A3)
as well as souvenirs of his journeys. Theres This museum re-creates a 17th-century
Matsuo Bash (16441694) was born in what is now Mie prefecture in western Japan and by the age of 10 he began no English signage, but its a unique oppor- Edo neighbourhood complete with a
to compose haiku, the seasonal-themed Japanese poetry of five syllables in the first line, seven in the second and five tunity nonetheless to enter his world. Theres fire lookout tower, life-sized faades and
in the third. In 1671 he published his first set of poems. By 1680 he became the leader of a literary circle in Edo. In 1681 a small garden out back, or walk out to the buildings you can enter. Explore the shops
one of his disciples planted a banana tree (bash) by Matsuos cottage here in Fukagawa; the cottage came to be known Sumida-gawa and take a left for a lookout like the greengrocers and rice shop, or
as Bash-an (banana house) and from that Matsuo took his pen name. where you can view the skyscrapers while slip off your shoes to enter the tenement
Bash soon embarked on an additional career, travel writer. He wandered the length of his homeland, documenting contemplating Bashs long-lost Edo. homes and handle the daily utensils and
what he saw, Edos own Mark Twain, Bill Bryson or Pico Iyer. Here is one of his most famous verses, from 1686:
childrens toys. Be sure to note the Inari
Furu-ike ya
FUKAGAWA EDO MUSEUM Map p126 shrine and the kura (storehouse) where
Kawazu tobikomu
belongings were kept for protection from
Mizu no oto.
%3630-8625; 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kt-ku; adult fire and, just as big a danger, Edos legen-
300, student 50-300; h9.30am-5pm, closed dary humidity.
The ancient pond
a frog leaps in.
The sound of the water.

In 1689 he departed Fukagawa to research what would become one of his most famous works, Oku no Hosomichi no
Tabi (The Narrow Rd to the Deep North), then later to the Kyoto area where he wrote Saga Nikki (Saga Diary). Upon
returning home to Fukagawa, he wrote the verse:
Moon viewing at my hut.
Let me hang on the pillar
like a banana leaf.

In 1694 he took one last journey, to the great city of saka, where he fell ill. His last poem before dying that October:
On a journey, ailing
NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

My dreams roam about
Over a withered moor.

The above haiku are translated from Japanese and dont conform exactly to the 5-7-5 rule, but one of haikus great legacies
is its easy adaptability to other languages. To try one in English, use the 5-7-5 syllabication, include a reference to the sea-
son, and throw in a twist, so that by the end of the haiku, readers are transported somewhere they couldnt anticipate.

has the same effect as visiting each temple.
One of the best times to visit is around
3pm, when priests read sutras in a thunder
of taiko drums and fire.
KANT EARTHQUAKE MEMORIAL
MUSEUM Map p126
former Yasuda garden (admission free; h9am-4pm),
%3622-1208; Yokoami-ken, Sumida-ku; admis-
sion free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bToei edo Line
to Rygoku (exit A1)
This museum presents sombre exhibits
about the 1923 earthquake that destroyed
more than 70% of the city and killed more
than 50,000 people. Maps chart the course
of the devastating fires while cases display
glassware, eyeglasses, binoculars, tools and
other objects convoluted by heat. There
is also a harrowing collection of photo-
graphs and paintings of the aftermath. The
museum has generalised to cover other
disasters to strike Tokyo prefecture, includ-
ing WWII air raids and the volcanic eruption
on one of the prefectures southern islands.
The museum sits in Yokoami-ken (Yokoami
Park), with other memorial buildings and a
garden dedicated to quake victims.
A pleasant walk connects the park and
the Rygoku Kokugikan (p125) through the
once the site of the Edo home of a daimy
(lord).
BASH KINENKAN (BASH
MUSEUM) Map p126
%3631-1448; 1-6-3 Tokiwa, Kt-ku; admission
100; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bToei edo Line
to Morishita (exit A1)
Although it now takes just a matter of min-
utes from the central Nihombashi district,
Fukagawa was considered a very remote area
of Edo in 1680 when the revered haiku poet
Matsuo Bash arrived here. At this compact

128 129
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
0 1 km
O DAI BA ODAIBA 0 0.5 miles

Tokyo
Eating p173; Shopping p147 Bay
Odaiba is a manmade island in Tokyo Bay, cobbled together from the heady dreams of the Bubble Rain Ariake Ariake Tennis-
bow Minato-ku no-mori
Era. Reaching Odaiba is a journey, not so much in length as in attitude. You board a conductorless Brid
ge
Colosseum

train around Shimbashi, and as it takes you across the width of Tokyo Bay and beneath the Rainbow Ariake
Bridge, Odaibas futuristic buildings beckon while the skyline you just left continues to tempt. Daiba-
ken
Ariake
Tennis an
e Kokusai
Lin Tenjij
g
The architectural centrepiece of the island is the Fuji TV Headquarters (p132), whose 25th-floor Park
yW
an
6
observation deck opens onto views of the city. However, the focus of most visitors to Odaiba has pw Ariake
Ex
uto
always been and continues to be shopping. Malls like Decks Tokyo Beach and Venus Fort (for Sh
Odaiba Kaihin- Kokusai-
more information see p147) dominate the rest of the landscape, with heaps of big-name stores, 9
ken
m
tenjij
Seimon
ea e
theme dining and game arcades strewn about. If youre looking for some non-retail therapy, 12 Tokyo Dr ridg 16 7
B
11 Teleport
however, the science museum Miraikan (below), the Museum of Maritime Science (opposite) and r
Daiba 3 nte ade
-edo Onsen Monogatari (below) are all excellent alternatives. Daiba Cemen
o 8
2
13 Pr 10
Most of Odaiba is navigable by foot, though jumping on and off the Yurikamome Line train Aomi
Palette Aomi Tokyo
Jugochi
Town Wharf
can be wonderfully convenient. The western part of the island, fronted by Odaiba Marine Park, Shiokaze-
ken West
International
Pier East
is home to luxury hotels, shopping and arcades, and a great number of eateries. The museums Promenade
Fune-no-
and other attractions generally lie to the east on the flats. Kagakukan

4
-EDO ONSEN MONOGATARI (-EDO pools, a foot bath, a bed of hot stones
5 Jugochi
ONSEN STORY) Map p131 and the opportunity to be buried in hot 15 Telecom
Center Wharf
sand. Massage services are available, as are West

%5500-1126; 2-57 Aomi, Kt-ku; adult 1575- relaxation spaces in case all that pampering Tokyo
Bay
1

2827, child 840-1575; h11am-9am; bYuri- makes you sleepy. Bathing products and 14

kamome Line to Telecom Center, or Rinkai Line to rental of towels and yukata are included.
Tokyo Teleport (free shuttle bus) Note: discounts are available if you
NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA

Public bathing in onsen (hot springs) is a
Japanese obsession (see p193), and, believe
it or not, theyve managed to find an ac-
tual hot spring 1400m below Tokyo Bay.
Of course, -edo Onsen is so much more
than just a mere hot springs complex.
Something of Disneyland meets health spa,
this bathing theme park re-creates an old
Japanese downtown indoors, selling old-
timey foods, toys and souvenirs. Wander
around in your colourful yukata (light cot-
ton kimono) and youll fit right in. Sure its
kitschy, but what the hey
Bathing opportunities (most separated
by gender) include indoor and outdoor
TRANSPORT: ODAIBA
Train Odaiba is on the Yurikamome Line from
Shimbashi, which crosses the majestic, 918m-long
Rainbow Bridge. An 800 day pass makes sense
unless you plan to make a simple round trip. The
Rinkai Line also approaches from the south and
east.
Waterbus The Suijo Bus stops at Odaiba Marine
Park and Palette Town. Catch the waterbus (see
Sumida-gawa River Cruise, p87) from Hinode Pier
(Map p86).
130
arrive late at night or early in the morn-
ing; admission prices are highest between
11am and 6pm, and lowest between 5am
and 8am. Visitors with tattoos will be
denied admission.
MIRAIKAN (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF
EMERGING SCIENCE & INNOVATION)
Map p131
%3570-9151; www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/index_e;
2-41 Aomi, Kt-ku; adult/child 500/200;
h10am-5.30pm Wed-Sun; bYurikamome Line
to Fune-no-kagakukan or Telecom Center
In the 20th century, 2001 had overtones of
the future Miraikan means hall of the fu-
ture, so its somehow fitting that thats the
year this futuristic building opened. Since
then, its been a favourite of travellers with
kids. Robotics (check out Asimo), home and
automotive technology figure prominently,
as do the newest in space and the life sci-
ences. The Gaia planetarium, in its own orb,
almost always books out get a reservation
ticket when you arrive. The building itself is
as futuristic as its exhibits; glass of different
degrees of clarity has been used for differ-
ent parts of the exterior shell, to allow for
capture of natural light, and through holes
and wind gardens provide ventilation.
NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA
ODAIBA
INFORMATION Tokyo Big Sight (East Exhibition Hibiki ................................................ 12 B2
Telecom Center 1 B3 Hall)  shima Endomae-Dokoro
................................... 6 D1 ............................. 13 B2
SIGHTS (pp1302) Tokyo Big Sight (West Exhibition Ten-Ten Tsune-Tsune Kaiten-bo
Ferris Wheel ....................... 2 C2 Hall)  .............................(see 9)
Tsukiji Tama Sushi .....(see 9)
Fuji Television Japan Broadcast ................................... 7 D2
Center  Toyota Mega Web
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191200)
............................................. 3 B2 .......................... 8 C2
-edo Onsen Monogatari
Fune no Kagaku-kan (Museum of (-edo Onsen Story)
Maritime Science) .... 4 B3 SHOPPING (pp13548) ............................. 14 B3
Miraikan (National Museum of Decks Tokyo Beach
Emerging Science & Innovation) ......................9 B2 TRANSPORT (pp23744)
.................................................. 5 B3 Venus Fort ..... 10 B2 Waterbus Aomi Pier
-edo Onsen Monogatari ................... 15 B3
(-edo Onsen Story) EATING (pp14974) Waterbus Ariake Pier
..........................(see 14) Gompachi .................................. 11 B2 ...................16 C2
FUNE NO KAGAKU-KAN (MUSEUM of excellent displays related to every aspect
OF MARITIME SCIENCE) Map p131 of ships; dont miss the stunningly crafted
replicas of Japanese ships, and try the
navigation simulator. Outside, the 83.7m
%5500-1111; www.funeno kagakukan.or.jp
/english/index.html; 3-1 Higashi Yashio, Shina- icebreaker Sya is preserved. The museum
is full of activities for kids, including a
gawa-ku; adult/child 700/400; bYurikamome
Line to Fune-no-kagakukan pool next door used for swimming and
This museum is ship-shape, literally. From demonstrations and instruction of small
the outside it looms like an ocean liner by craft. Theres limited English signage but an
the waters edge, and inside are four floors English audio guide is available (500).
131

lonelyplanet.com
TOYOTA MEGA WEB Map p131
%3599-0808; www.megaweb.gr.jp; 1 Aomi,
Kt-ku; admission free, virtual test drives 600;
h11am-9pm; bYurikamome Line to Aomi (main
exit), or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (main exit)
In the Palette Town development, Mega
Web was designed to display the wares of
the Toyota corporation. Yes, its a show-
room, but against all odds its actually also
fun. Test drive vehicles (advance reserva-
tion required), try the Mega Theater motion
simulator or poke around in the History
Garage with cars from the Golden Age.
Some facilities close earlier; call ahead to
confirm.
Next door, dont miss one of the worlds
tallest Ferris wheels (Dai-kanransha), which is
as high as the second viewing platform of
the Eiffel Tower (the one in Paris, not Tokyo
Tower!).
AN ISLAND STROLL
Walking Tour
Pick and choose your stops on this walk. The
NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA
entertainments of Odaiba are so humungous
and sprawling that browsing one mall and one
museum could take an entire day.
1 Decks Tokyo Beach (
) Theres no shortage of shopping on
the island of Odaiba, though this day-at-
the-beach themed shopping complex (for more
information see p147) is the perfect place for
perking yourself if the rain happens to start
AN ISLAND STROLL
1 pw
Tokyo
2 Teleport
Daiba
START
Daiba
Aomi
Shiokaze-
ken West
Promenade
Fune-no-
Kagakukan
3 Jugochi
Telecom
Center
Tokyo
Bay
4 everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
132
Lonely Planet Publications
falling. If youre planning to be on your feet 4 -edo Onsen Monogatari ( should detract from the real reason why youre
lonelyplanet.com
all day, its probably a good idea to eat your  Just as dangerous to your itinerary here, namely to cash in on some retail therapy.
fill of fresh sushi at Tsukiji Tama Sushi (for more as the Miraikan, this onsen resort is the per- Designer shops and boutiques are aimed ex-
information see p173). fect spot to soak your travel-worn bones. Of clusively at women, so men may want to take
course, edo Onsen (for more information a pass or continue on.
2 Fuji Television Japan Broadcast see p130 and p194) is so much more than a hot
Center () spring resort, especially since you can top off 6 Tokyo Big Sight ()
The headquarters of Fuji TV, an unmistak- your bath with a stroll through the shops and The humorously named Big Sight is an exhi-
able ball-shaped structure straight out of the restaurants of Old Edo while sporting your bition hall that looks like an Egyptian pyramid
future, is home to one of the citys best ob- finest yukata. that fell to earth upside down. If nothing
servatories. On a clear day youll get picture- else, its certainly one of Tokyos architectural
postcard views of Tokyo Bay, Rainbow Bridge 5 Venus Fort ( This wonders, though the main reason youre here
and the towering skyline of Shinagawa. A female-friendly shopping complex (p147) stages is to snag a good view of the bay from the roof
ticket to the observatory (adult/child 500/300) also faux sunrises and sunsets amid a kitschy Ital- of the hall, which is open to visitors any time
gets you into the Fuji Studio (tour conducted ian Renaissancetheme, though none of this a conference is not in session.
in Japanese).
3 Miraikan () With a name like the
National Museum of Emerging Science & In-
novation (for more information see p130), you
know it has to be good especially if youre
travelling with the little ones. With enough
hands-on exhibits to occupy the attention
spans of even the most finicky of children (or
adults), its easy to forget about your walking
tour and lose an entire day here.
NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA
WALK FACTS
Start Daiba Station (main exit)
End Kokusai-tenjij Seimon Station
Distance 2.5km
Time Three to four hours with stops
Fuel Stop Tsukiji Tama Sushi (p173)
0 1 km
0 0.5 miles
e 6
Lin Ariake
g an END
an
Odaiba yW
Kaihin-
o Ex m
Kokusai-
ken hut ea e tenjij
S Dr ridg Seimon 6
B
r
nte ade
Cemen
r o
P 5 Jugochi
Aomi Tokyo Wharf
International East
Pier
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Wharf
West
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
133
 Lonely Planet Publications

S H O PPI N G

Yodobashi Camera (p146) Insanely busy, noisy

electronics retailer. Go for the energy.
Don Quixote (p140) Hack your way through a jungle
of novelty goods.
Muji (p137) Gorgeous designs, no labels. All cool.
Mandarake (p143) Get your manga comic fix at this
respected chain.
RanKing RanQueen (p142) The best new products,
ranked weekly.
Oriental Bazaar (p144) Big selection of souvenirs and
quality antiques.
Kaiyd Hobby Lobby (p140) All the plastic figurines
you could ever want, and more.
Uniqlo (p143) Popular clothier with stylish, cheap duds.
Japan Sword (p139) The real stuff: samurai swords in
all their beauty and deadliness.
Akihabara Radio Center (p140) A billion tiny elec-
tronics parts in tiny stalls, this is old-school Akihabara.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

 TAKUMI Map p62

lonelyplanet.com
Craft
S H O PPI N G
%3571-2017; www.ginza-takumi.co.jp, in Japa-
nese; 8-2-4 Ginza, Ch-ku; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat;
bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or
You can shop til you drop in Tokyo just watch the Japanese. People here shop as they work SHOPPING STREETS Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3)
long and hard and while much of the booty is taken home and eventually worn or indulged Ameyoko Arcade (Map p72; ) One Takumi has been around for more than 60
in by the buyer, an equal amount is used as gifts to grease the wheels of complex social and of Tokyos only old-fashioned, open-air pedestrian years, and has acquired an elegant selec-
business relationships. Above all, the craving for new products shinhatsubai is insatiable. markets, and a good place for bargains from spices tion of toys, textiles, ceramics and other tra-
Enough to fuel a chain specialising in the most popular new goods (see p142). to shoes. See p70. ditional folk crafts from around Japan. Ever
The central dispensers of most goods are depto (department stores), many of which are thoughtful, the shop also encloses informa-
owned by the companies that also operate the train lines (p25) hence the sprawling retail clusters Hachiman-dri (Map p102; ) Lined with tion detailing the origin and background of
around the busiest train stations. Of course, Tokyo has an abundance of smaller, more eccentric shops purveying high and low fashion trends, this its pieces if you make a purchase.
shops. Many are found on the backstreets of Harajuku, Shibuya and Ebisu and display items street is a delightful treasure hunt for local designs.
that are lovingly designed and crafted. Trendy Shibuya, a haven for teenagers always surfing Kappabashi-dri (p138; ) Food, food MATSUYA Map p62 Department Store
the latest trends, has innumerable original storefronts tucked between chain stores. everywhere, and nary a rice grain to eat because
If you are in Tokyo for only a few days, head for Omote-sand or Harajuku, which has some its plastic.
%3567-1211; www.matsuya.com, in Japanese; 3-
of the citys most interesting high- and low-fashion boutiques. For status shopping, go straight Nakamise-dri (p138; ) Leading up to 6-1 Ginza, Ch-ku; h10am-8pm; bGinza, Hibiya
to Ginza glam or the southern reaches of Omote-sand and Minami-Aoyama. If youve got the grand gate that opens onto Sens-ji, this is home or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A12 & A13)
more time, roam through Ebisu, Shibuya and the odd little old-timey craft shops on the side to countless trinket, snack and knick-knack shops. Matsuya offers fine mens and womens
streets and in the alleys of Asakusa. Foreign otaku (geeks) should definitely hit Akihabara (also clothing on the 1st floor and a good
see p67 and Shinjuku for manga and electronics. And a stroll down one of Tokyos shopping Omote-sand (p142 ) Known as the centre
of Tokyos haute couture culture, Omote-sand is the breadth of traditional Japanese crafts, pot-
streets can reveal unexpected finds (opposite). tery and knick-knacks on the 7th. Boons for
Lastly, though bargaining is the norm in most of Asia, in Japan its simply not done except place to take in Tokyo fashion on parade.
foreign visitors are the international ship-
at flea markets and the occasional electronics store. Just politely ask chotto, motto yasuku deki- Takeshita-dri (p144; ) Takeshita-dri is
ping service, tax-exemption assistance and
masuka? (Can you make it a bit cheaper?) to teenagers what Omote-sand is to dilettantes.
useful, in-store English-speaking guides.
Theres another branch in Asakusa (Map p86).
IMPERIAL PALACE & p171). For the full effect, arrive at 10am for
the bells and bows that accompany each HAYASHI KIMONO Map p62

Clothes
MATSUZAKAYA Map p62 Department Store
days opening.
MARUNOUCHI %3501-4012; 2-1-5 Yrakuch, Chiyoda-ku;
h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bHibiya

%3572-1111; www.matsuzakaya.co.jp/ginza
MITSUKOSHI Map pp523 Department Store
GINZA Line to Hibiya (exit A5) /index.html, in Japanese; 6-10-1 Ginza, Ch-ku;
SHOPPING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

%3241-3311; 1-4-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi,
Ch-ku; h10am-8pm bGinza or Hanzmon
Line to Mitsukoshimae (exits A2, A3, A5, A7 & A8)
Though there are branches of this depart-
ment store in Ikebukuro (Map p122), Ginza
(Map p62) and Ebisu (Map p102), the flagship
store in Nihombashi is still the most ele-
gant. Check out the floor dedicated to the
art of the kimono or peruse the morsels in
the depachika (department store food floor;
DUTY-FREE TOKYO
Most major department stores and many of the
well-known tourist shops offer tax-exempt shopping
for foreign tourists making purchases of more than
10,000. You must present your passport and a cus-
toms document will then be attached to it (this will be
checked and removed as you exit the country). Most
of the big stores have special tax-exemption counters
where staff will be able to speak some English or at
the very least have information that you can read.
136
Ginza is the poshest shopping district in
Tokyo one look around Mitsukoshi will
testify to this. But tucked in between some
of the more imposing faades are simpler
pleasures like fine papers and shelves full of
ingenious toys. Shopping options here truly
reflect the breadth and depth of the citys
consumer culture, which is equal parts high
fashion glitz and down-to-earth dedication
to craft.
ITYA Map p62 Art Supplies
%3561-8311; www.ito-ya.co.jp, in Japanese;
2-7-15 Ginza, Ch-ku; h10.30am-8pm Wed-Sat,
10.30am-7pm Sun-Tue; bGinza or Hibiya Line to
Ginza (exits A12 & A13)
Nine floors of stationery-shop love await
visual-art professionals, as well as paper
and paperclip fanatics, at Itya. There is
washi (fine Japanese handmade paper), Ital-
ian leather agendas, and even tenugui
beautifully hand-dyed handkerchiefs.
This very friendly shop in the dowdy
International Arcade under the railway has
been selling quality kimono and yukata
(light cotton summer kimono) for over
forty years. The former may run about
10,000 in silk, and the latter (lightweight
cotton) half that or even 2800 many are
very colourful and make excellent gifts.
Foreigner-friendly sizes are also available.
MUJI Map p62 Clothes & Homewares
Map p62
%5208-8241; www.mujiyurakucho.com, in
Japanese; 3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-
9pm; bJR Yamanote to Yurakuch (Kybashi exit)
or Yurakuch Line to Yurakuch (exit D9)
Tokyos famously understated no-name
brand is one of the hippest names in
Paris. But Muji still sells simple, unadorned
clothing and accessories for men and
women. It also carries hard-to-find M and
L sizes (though these, too, are small). This
large outlet in Yurakuch also has a great
cafeteria.
SHOPPING GINZA
h10am-8pm Thu-Sat, 10am-7.30pm; bGinza,
Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A3)
For 300 years Matsuzakaya has been selling
traditional garments and crafts. Today the
range is broader, though the store still has a
first-rate kimono shop. Matsuzakaya is one of
those grand department stores with a fabu-
lous depachika in the basement. Also located
at Ueno (Map p72) and Ebisu (Map p102).
HAKUHINKAN TOY PARK
Toy Shop
%3571-8008; www.hakuhinkan.co.jp; 8-8-11
Ginza, Ch-ku; h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote
Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line
to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3)
This layer cake of a toy park is crammed
to every corner with this years models
of character toys, the hottest squawk-
ing video games, seas of colourful plastic
and the softest plush toys ever invented.
Hakuhinkan also harbours child-friendly
restaurants and even a theatre.
137
lonelyplanet.com

ASAKUSA with small shops selling temple parapher-

Now decidedly relaxed, Asakusa was once
the heart of Edos low city, home to artisans,
merchants and prostitutes. Its small lanes and
winding alleyways are still full of surprises,
from venerable doll shops to virtuosic drum
makers such as Taiko-kan (p89). For straight
gift shopping, Nakamise-dri is not bad for
souvenir trinkets try the back streets for
better-quality stuff. The long stretch of Kap-
pabashi-dri also yields uniquely Japanese
curiosities in its little culinary-supply shops.
KAPPABASHI-DRI Map p86
bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3)
Its most famous for its shops selling plastic
food models, but Kappabashi-dri supplies
many a Tokyo restaurant in bulk, selling
matching sets of chopsticks, uniforms,
woven bamboo tempura trays and tiny cer-
amic shyu (soy sauce) dishes. This makes it
the perfect street for stocking up if youre
setting up an apartment or seeking small,
useful souvenirs.
NAKAMISE-DRI Map p86
bAsakusa Station
Nakamise-dri, the long, crowded ped-
estrian lane running from Kaminarimon
SHOPPING CENTRAL TOKYO
nalia as well as traditional items of varying
beauty and quality. The little arcade of
Nakamise-dri is also the place to pick up
locally made, salty sembei (crispy rice crack-
ers) and age-manju (deep-fried bean buns).
YOSHITOKU Map p126 Traditional Dolls
%3863-4419; www.yoshitoku.co.jp, in Japanese;
1-9-14 Asakusabashi, Tait-ku; h9.30am-6pm;
bJR Sbu or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusabashi
(exit A2 or main exit)
Once known as doll-maker to the emperor,
Market Yoshitoku has been crafting and distribut-
ing dolls since 1711. The 1st floor is filled
with miniatures that depict kabuki actors,
geisha and sum wrestlers in minute detail
and exquisite dress. Figures are designed
with the serious collector in mind.
CENTRAL TOKYO
A few stops east of Shinjuku, the height of
buildings descend to a more human scale.
A stroll up the Kagurazaka slope from Iida-
bashi Station will turn up several shops sell-
Market ing geta (traditional wooden sandals) and
drawstring purses made from lavish kimono
fabric. Elsewhere in the area, wedged in un-
expected places between pharmacies, gro-
ceries and pachinko (vertical pinball-game)
lonelyplanet.com
GIFT BOX
Gift-giving in Japan is a complex art form, fraught with symbolism and design. While most Japanese will graciously
forgive the faux pas of a foreigner, some basic etiquette is important.
If invited to someones home, bring a small gift as a gesture of appreciation. Flowers are a good choice, as is a pretty pack-
age of sweets from a depachika. Bringing along some trinkets and speciality items from your home country will delight Japa-
nese, but err on the side of modesty. Avoid anything in sets of unlucky four or nine, and dont wrap gifts in funereal white.
When offered a gift, the polite response is to initially refuse so as not to appear greedy. Conversely, when you offer
a gift, expect to do a bit of gentle urging before its accepted. In group situations, give something to everyone (a shared
box of biscuits, for example) but give individual gifts in private. Its good form to give and receive with both hands. And
unless the giver insists, politely resist the temptation to tear into it until later.
BINGOYA Map pp489 Craft One of Tokyos most famous sellers of
samurai swords and weaponry, it sells the
%3202-8778; www.quasar.nu/bingoya; 10-6 genuine article such as antique sword
Wakamatsuch, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-7pm guards and samurai helmets dating from
Tue-Sun; bToei edo Line to Wakamatsu-kawada the Edo period as well as convincing
(kawada exit) replicas crafted by hand. Be sure to inquire
Richly dyed washi (handmade paper), batik about export and transport restrictions.
textiles, ceramics and an assortment of folk
crafts fill out the five floors of this wonderful AXIS Map pp967 Craft
shop. Find handmade glassware, cushions
and Japanese tea cups for feathering your
%3587-2781; www.axisinc.co.jp, in Japanese; 5-
nest, or painted fans, happi (half-length 17-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat;
coats) and washi-covered tea canisters. bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
Salivate over some of Japans most in-
PUPPET HOUSE Map p56 Speciality Store novative interior design at this Roppongi
design complex. Of the 20-odd galleries
%5229-6477; www.puppet-house.co.jp, in and retail shops selling art books, cutting-
Japanese; 1-8 Shimomiyabi-ch, Shinjuku-ku; edge furniture and other objets dinterior
h11am-7pm Tue-Sat; bJR Ch or JR Sbu Line design, a highlight is Yoshikin (%3568-2356;

SHOPPING ROPPONGI
gate to Hzmon gate, has more than 80 parlours, are shops carrying goods like Czech to Iidabashi (east exit) 2nd fl) for beautifully crafted, inexpensive
stalls that for centuries have been helping puppets and hand-painted kites. Jimbch is This is a wondrous workshop of functional kitchenware.
the Japanese people fulfil their gift-giving the place to go for rare books, both Japanese international marionettes, run by a super-
obligations. The wide alley is chock-a-block and English. friendly couple who are happy to talk shop. BLUE & WHITE Map pp967 Craft
Look for the sign of Punch in an alley near
Mizuho Bank. %3451-0537; 2-9-2 Azabu-jban; h11am-6pm
ASAKUSA TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS Mon-Sat; bNamboku or Toei edo Line to Azabu-
jban (exit 4)
The following shops specialise in Asakusa traditional products. If there are other crafts youre interested in, and there
are dozens more, visit the Edo Shitamachi Dent Kgeikan (Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum, p89 or visit www
ROPPONGI
Though Roppongi is best known for wild bars
Amy Katoh, the expat American behind
this small crafts store, sells traditional
.asakusa-e.com/dentokoge/dentokoge2.htm, in Japanese. and pick-up joints, its also home to a few of the and contemporary items like indigo-dyed
Bengara (Map p86; %3841-6613, www.bengara.com, in Japanese; 1-35-6 Asakusa, Tait-ku; citys most interesting and idiosyncratic shops
h10am-6pm closed 3rd Thu monthly; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)) and showrooms and its new shopping mega-
Sells noren, the curtains that hang in front of shop doors. Some noren are very artful, with the spirit of the mingei malls, Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown.
movement (p35). Its one block east of Nakamise-dri. Of special interest in Roppongi are the Axis
Kanes (Map p86; %3844-1379; www.kanesoh.com, in Japanese; 1-18-12 Asakusa, Tait-ku; showroom, showcasing contemporary design,
h11am-7pm; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)) This place has been and Japan Sword, which displays and sells the
selling knives since the early Meiji period. In a country where knives are a serious business, this shop is known as a exquisite weaponry of the samurai. TRADITIONAL CRAFTS SHOPS
favourite of the pros. Bingoya (left)
Miyamoto Unosuke Shoten (Map p86; %3844-2141; www.miyamoto-unosuke.co.jp; 2-1-1 JAPAN SWORD Map pp967 Antiques Japan Traditional Craft Center (p146)
Nishi Asakusa, Tait-ku; h9am-6pm Thu-Tue; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) If its festival products youre Yoshitoku (opposite)
after, Miyamoto is one-stop shopping, from mikoshi (portable shrines) to drums, clappers and festival masks. Its on %3434-4321; www.japansword.co.jp; 3-8-1 Torano- Takumi (p137)
the ground floor of the building and downstairs from the drum museum (p89). mon, Minato-ku; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- Oriental Bazaar (p144)
5pm Sat; bGinza Line to Toranomon (exit 2)
138 139
lonelyplanet.com

yukata (light cotton kimono or robe) and TOKYO MIDTOWN Map pp967 Shopping Mall This is a bookshop for serious designers, or clever suspension bridges and four dozen

painted chopsticks, all in blue and white.
Pick through tiny dishes of ceramic beads
or collect bundled-up swatches of fabric for
your own crafty creations.
DON QUIXOTE Map pp967 Department Store
Tokyo Midtown may not be as architectur-
%5786-0811; www.donki.com/index.php; 3-14-10
Roppongi, Minato-ku; h24 hrs; bHibiya or Toei
edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
The Roppongi branch of this jam-packed,
bargain castle is where Japanese kids of all
ages come to stock up for fun. Don Quixote
sells everything from household goods
to French maid costumes, usually at cut-
rate prices. Youll need to hack your way
through cluttered aisles, but its possible to
find funky gifts here.
ROPPONGI HILLS Map pp967 Shopping Mall
nected to the Ebisu JR Station by moving
%6406-6000; www.roppongihills.com/en; 6-10-1
Roppongi; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi
(exits 1c & 3)
In the first three months after its opening
in April 2003, Roppongi Hills (p94) saw a
staggering 26 million visitors pass through
its doors. After a year, the count was up
to a cool 46 million. The 200 retail stores,
Mori Art Museum (p95) and nine-screen
cinema (p188) still continue to draw the
SHOPPING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA
%3475-3100; www.tokyo-midtown.com/en/;
9-7-1 Akasaka; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi (exit 8)
Home to a bevy of museums, design cen-
tres and accommodation, recently opened
ally grandiose as rival Roppongi Hills, but it
has a number of interesting shops like Idea
Digital Code (%5413-3668; Galleria, 3rd floor), which
sells very funky appliances, and designer
goods retailer Style Meets People (%5413-3705;
Galleria, 3rd floor).
EBISU & DAIKANYAMA
Ebisu is often overlooked, though its shops,
like its restaurants, are some of the most
forward-thinking and interesting in the city.
Yebisu Garden Place, an open-air mall con-
walkways, is a good place to start. If youre
more interested in one-of-a-kind wares hot-
foot it up the hill toward Daikanyama and
Hachiman-dri.
HACKNET Map p102
%5728-6611; www.hacknet.tv, in Japanese;
1-30-10 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm;
bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (exit 4 &
those who can get high on the fumes of ele- or so designer boutiques selling clothing,
gant design. Hacknet specialises in cutting-
edge design books from across disciplines
and around the world. The small, well-lit
space is excellent for browsing and the staff
is incredibly studiously unobtrusive.
YEBISU GARDEN PLACE
GDC Map p102 Clothes
%5728-2947; www.gdcweb.jp, in Japanese;
12-7 Uguisudani-ch, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-
10pm;bTyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit)
Tucked away on a Daikanyama backstreet,
GDC is a popular casual wear label under
director Kumagai Takashi that focuses on
cool T-shirts with provocative designs like
its Black America series. Lines include the
hip-hop-oriented Raw Fudge and Ventura, as
well as outdoorsy Ugly for women.
Q FLAGSHIP EBISU-NISHI
Map p102 Clothes
%5456-9117; www.qshop.jp, in Japanese; B1 fl,
1-30-10 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm;
bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (exit 4 &
west exit)
Sharing a building with Hacknet, Q Flagship
Bookshop Ebisu-Nishi presents its clothing and accessor-
ies like candy,or jewellery. Many pieces are
originals by local and international designers,
but the shop also designs a house collection.
Sizes are limited generally to those fitting
lonelyplanet.com
eyewear and other sartorially stylish ac-
cessories. The open-air plaza is a treat on
quiet afternoons, and weekends tend to be
relatively free of mad throngs of shoppers.
Map p102 Shopping Mall
%5423-7111; www.gardenplace.co.jp; 4-20-3
Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu
(east exit to Skywalk)
This large mall has loads of upper-end
shops and a basement full of good restau-
rants. Most of the wares here are the usual
department store fare high-quality, glitzy
and somewhat characterless. But the lovely
alfresco courtyard and the openness of
the space are a welcome departure from
crowded shopping districts.
SHIBUYA
Shibuya is the fount of teen trendiness in
Japan. If youre over 30 you might feel way too
old, but just cruise and amuse yourself in the
madness. Music shops and cheap, outrageous
apparel are everywhere, as are the hip kids
who come to primp and pose. At weekends,
the street in front of the 109 Building closes
to all but foot traffic.

SHOPPING SHIBUYA
crowds. west exit) svelte Daikanyama figures.
SHIBUYA 109 Map p106 Clothes
KAMAWANU Map p102 Craft 109
ELECTRIC TOWN Ichimaruky; %3477-5111; www.shibuya109.
%3780-0182; www.kamawanu.co.jp, in Japa- jp, in Japanese; 2-29-1 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku;
Akihabara, or Akiba if youre an otaku (geek), is Tokyos electronics mecca, but its both hardware and software. It h10am-9pm; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
nese; 23-1 Sarugaku-ch, Shibuya-ku; h11am-
was born out of a postwar black market for radio parts, matured into household appliances and computers and now Tokyos fad-obsessed fashionistas come
7pm;bTyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit)
sells fantasy manga (Japanese comic book), anime (Japanese animation) and associated merchandise like plastic to 109s circular tower for the seasons
Looking for a unique, compact present
figurines and costumes. There is now a plethora of maid cafs (p161) where anime-esque girls will cater to male freshest looks. Most of the clientele is girls
from Japan? Kamawanu specialises in
fantasies of being served by uniformed female servants. Akiba is ever protean and always a step ahead into the next under 20; the punk fabrics and wild designs
tenugui, dyed cotton cloths that are surpris-
consumer phase. Here are a few of its most distinctive shops. reflect this its what kids are wearing on
ingly versatile. These beautifully patterned
Akihabara Radio Center (Map p68; %3253-1030; www.radiocenter.jp, in kerchiefs motifs take in everything from the street.
Japanese; 1-14-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; hvaries; bJR Sbu Line to Akihabara) A two-storey warren of fifty Mt Fuji to musical notes and skeletons
electronics stalls under the elevated railway that is the original, still-beating heart of Akihabara. Strictly for old- can be used as decorative art, bath towels, TSUTSUMU FACTORY Map p106 Craft
school electronics otaku. scarves or gift wrap.
Kaiyd Hobby Lobby (Map p68; %3253-1951; www.kaiyodo.co.jp, in Japanese; %5478-1330; www.tsutsumu.co.jp, in Japanese;
4fl Radio Kaikan, 1-15-16 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue; bJR Sbu Line to Akihabara) This is a DAIKANYAMA ADDRESS 37-15 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; h10am-7pm Mon-
collectors plastic dream heroic, sexy figurines from all walks of Japanese science fiction. Look for the Neon Genesis Map p102 Shopping Mall Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)
Evangelion statues outside. Its the wrapping-paper centre of the
Tsukumo Robotto koku (Map p68; %3251-0987; www.rakuten.co.jp/tsukumo, %3461-5586; www.17dixsept.jp; 17-6 packaging-excess capital: Tsutsumu, which
in Japanese; 1-9-7 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7.30pm Sun; bJR Sbu Line to Daikanyamach, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; translates into wrapping, carries hundreds
Akihabara) Fancy a bipedal humanoid robot? Or would a talking Hello Kitty do the trick? This shop is at the forefront bTky Tyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit) of sorts of gorgeous washi as well as other
of the home robot revolution; also sells DIY robot kits. Just northwest of Daikanyama Station, kinds of paper, numerous greeting cards,
this small retail complex is notable for its and boxes.
140 141
lonelyplanet.com

hand-blown glass pens and vibrating FUJI-TORII Map p110 high and priced low. Of special note is the

lonelyplanet.com
Antiques
CLOTHING SIZES reflexology slippers. This is eight floors of extensive collection of used kimono and
Womens clothing oddball, functional stuff you never realised %3400-2777; www.fuji-torii.com; 6-1-10 yukata in the basement.
you needed. If you hit one store during Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-6pm Wed-Mon,
Aus/UK 8 10 12 14 16 18 your stay, let this be it. Theres another
Europe 36 38 40 42 44 46 closed 3rd Mon of the month; bJR Yamanote Line HYSTERIC GLAMOUR Map p110 Clothes
huge store in Shinjukus Takashimaya Times to Harajuku (Omote-sand exit) or Chiyoda Line to
Japan 5 7 9 11 13 15 Square (Map p116).
USA 6 8 10 12 14 16 Meiji-jingmae (exit 4) %3409-7227; www.hystericglamour.jp, in Japa-
For more than half a century, this discrimi- nese; 6-23-2 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm;
Womens shoes LOFT Map p106 Department Store & Homewares nating antique dealer has specialised in bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sand
Aus/USA 5 6 7 8 9 10 providing authentic lacquerware, ceram- exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji-jingmae (exits 1 & 4)
Europe 35 36 37 38 39 40 %3462-3807; www.loft.co.jp, in Japanese; ics, scrolls and ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) Its actually tongue-in-cheek rather than
France only 35 36 38 39 40 42 21-1 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; h10am- to interested buyers. Authenticity is guar- hysteric glamour, but whatever you want
Japan 22 23 24 25 26 27 9pm;bShibuya (Hachik exit) anteed and there is also a helpful English- to call it, its sexy and fun. These designer
UK 3 4 5 6 7 8 Lofts multiple levels of housewares, acces- speaking staff. confections are a good place to start for
Mens clothing sories, travel supplies and stationery are hip fashion with a Tokyo twist. Theres even
more compact than at Tky Hands and, CHICAGO THRIFT STORE a toddler line, the ultimate in designer
Aus 92 96 100 104 108 112
aimed towards younger shoppers, the bias Map p110 Clothes punk for your little rocker.
Europe 46 48 50 52 54 56
leans towards fun and oddities. Stylish bed-
Japan S M M L
ding and blob-shaped vases distract the %3409-5017; www.chicago.co.jp, in Japanese; UNIQLO Map p110 Clothes
UK/USA 35 36 37 38 39 40
shopper from titanium jewellery and trendy h11am-8pm; 6-31-21 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
Mens shirts (collar sizes) makeup before the kawaii (cute) plastic h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku %5468-7313; www.uniqlo.com; 6-10-8 Jingmae,
Aus/Japan 38 39 40 41 42 43 toys and mobile-phone charms do em in. (Omote-sand exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji- Shibuya-ku; h11am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to
Europe 38 39 40 41 42 43 Another branch is in Ikebukuro (Map p122). jingmae (exit 4) Meiji-jingmae (exits 1 &4)
UK/USA 15 15 16 16 17 17 Stuffed to the rafters with funky hats, ties Like Muji (p137), Uniqlo has made a name
Mens shoes RANKING RANQUEEN and coats, Chicago is a treasure trove of for itself by sticking to the basics. Offering
Map p106 Specialty Store vintage clothing and used duds stacked inexpensive, quality clothing with clean,
Aus/UK 7 8 9 10 11 12

Europe 41 42 43 44 46 47
Japan 26 27 27 28 29 30 %3770-5480; www.ranking-ranqueen.net, in
Japanese; 2nd fl, Shibuya Station, Shibuya-ku;
USA 7 8 9 10 11 12
h10am-11.30pm; bShibuya
BOOKSHOPS
Measurements approximate only; try before you buy Come here to find what young Japanese From manga to ancient manuscripts, Tokyo is a book lovers paradise. Japanese are voracious readers and are spoilt for
are nuts about the hottest, quirkiest choice when it comes to literature shops. Here are some notable retailers dealing in English and Japanese books.
SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

PARCO Map p106 Department Store
whitener? Theyve got it. The best-selling
%3464-5111; www.parco-shibuya.com; 15-
1 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm;
bShibuya (Hachik exit)
Parco, divided into several stores located
smack in the middle of Shibuya, carries
contemporary designs for a very young
crowd. In Parco I, youll find a good maga-
zine and bookstore on the 7th floor and
edgy shops on floors three through six.
Theres another Parco in Ikebukuro
(Map p122).
TKY HANDS Map p106 Department Store
entirely different meaning than it has for the
%5489-5111; www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/shibuya.
htm, in Japanese; 12-18 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku;
h10am-8.30pm; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
This is Tokyos favourite DIY store, with
hardware and materials for home projects.
What defines it is the sheer diversity of ec-
centric goodies: clocks that tick backwards,
consumer products, ranked every month
according to sales. The No 1 selling teeth
bath salts, bottled tea, cellulite killers and
tools to make your face look smaller are all
here too. Enjoy the madness.
HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
Home to the famed Harajuku girls, Takes-
hita-dri and the alleys packed with small,
independent designers shops and second-
hand stores, Omote-sand is the most
eclectic, experimental neighbourhood in
Tokyo. High fashion rules the Aoyama end
of Omote-sand, where fashionable has an
hipsters of Harajuku layering haute couture
with second-hand finds. Creatively active
but solidly established, Aoyama is grown-
up, refined yet innovative. Its no wonder
artistic designers and high fashion flagship
stores have made this section of Tokyo their
creative home.
Blue Parrot (Map p122; %3202-3671; www.blueparrottokyo.com; 3rd fl, 2-14-10 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;
h11am-9.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba, Waseda exit) A fabulous resource of English books,
magazines, DVDs, childrens books and internet access.
Good Day Books (Map p102; %5421-0957; www.gooddaybooks.com; 3rd fl, 1-11-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h11am-
8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu, east exit) The best selection of used English-language
books in Tokyo, with a wide range of paperbacks, hardcovers and magazines.
Issei-do (Map p68; %3292-0071; www.isseido-books.co.jp; 1-7 Kanda-Jimbch, Chiyoda-ku;
h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; bToei Mita or Toei Shinjuku Line to Jimbch, exits A6 & A7) An antiquarian book-
seller, this one with a wonderful selection of old texts. The 2nd floor has many well-weathered volumes in English.
Kinokuniya (Map p116; %5361-3301; www.kinokuniya.co.jp; Takashimaya Times Square, 5-24-
2 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm;bShinjuku, south exit) One of the best selections of English-language
titles on the 6th floor, with another nearby branch east of Shinjuku Station.
Mandarake (off Map pp489; %3228-0007; www.mandarake.co.jp; 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-
ku; hnoon-8pm;bJR Ch Line to Nakano, west exit) A must-stop for manga maniacs, Mandarake has more
than a dozen shops spread throughout the Nakano Broadway mall. There are also branches in Shibuya (Map p106;
%3477-0777; B2 fl, Shibuya Beam Bldg, 31-2 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm; bShibuya, Hachik
exit) and Ikebukuro (Map p122; %5928-0771; B1 fl, Lions Mansion Ikebukuro, 3-15-2 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku;
h11am-8pm; bIkebukuro, east exit).
Maruzen (Map pp523; %6214-2001; 2-3-10 Nihombashi, Ch-ku; h9.30am-8.30pm; bGinza Line to
Nihombashi (B3 exit)) Established in 1869, this is Japans oldest Western bookshop (recently rebuilt) and has one of
the best selections of English-language books in Tokyo. Its founder is said to have invented Japanese curried rice
theres a restaurant serving the dish here.

142 143
lonelyplanet.com
simple style, this chain has taken Tokyo
by typhoon. Youll find the original out-
post in Omote-sand, and youll stumble
over dozens more all over town. Sizes run
small.
ORIENTAL BAZAAR Map p110 Craft
Map p110
%3400-3933; 5-9-13 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
h10am-7pm Fri-Wed; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-
jingmae (exit 4)
Carrying a wide selection of antiques and
tourist items at very reasonable prices,
Oriental Bazaar is an excellent spot for easy
one-stop souvenir shopping. Good gifts to
be found here include fans, folding screens,
pottery, porcelain and kimono. The branch
at Narita Airport opens at 7.30am for last-
chance purchases.
A BATHING APE Map p110 Designer Wear
%3407-2145; www.bape.com; 5-5-8 Minami-
Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-7pm; bChiyoda,
Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A4)
This A Bathing Ape Exclusive outlet of the
uber-hip urban and hip-hop outfitter line is
more like a museum than a shop, with fab
sneakers on a rotating steel conveyor belt,
mirrored surfaces and lots of sparkle. You
can pick up Bape plastic models and some
of the coolest bags in town.
SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
COMME DES GARONS
Map p110 Designer Wear
%3498-1224; www.spiral.co.jp, in Japanese;
%3406-3951; 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku;
h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon
Line to Omote-sand (exit A5)
The architectural eccentricity of Kawakubo
Reis flagship store (see also p113) should
come as no surprise her radical designs
have been refiguring the fashion landscape
for more than 20 years. Both mens and
womens fashions are on display. Most
available sizes are quite small, but a quick
circuit of the shop is interesting in itself.
ISSEY MIYAKE Map p110 Designer Wear
%3475-0411; 1-11-6 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
%3423-1407; www.isseymiyake.com; 3-18-11
Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm;
bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
sand (exit A4)
Before Issey Miyake put Tokyo on the fash-
ion map, Japanese designers were known
144
to copy Western trends after theyd already
hit the runway. Miyakes work has changed
such conceptions. Check out the A-POC
garments each made from a single piece
of fabric.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Designer Wear
%3797-6131; condomania.jp; 6-30-1 Jingmae,
%3409-6006; www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp; 5-3-
6 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm;
bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
sand (exit A5)
Wander down Omote-sand to check out
Yohji Yamamotos bold, timeless designs.
Though theres no sign on it, his flagship
store is recognisable by its distinctive
bronze faade, which youll want to get
past for a look at the experimental interior.
TAKESHITA-DRI Map p110 Market
h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon
bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dri
exit)
If youre struck with a sudden urge to fit
into one of Tokyos youth subcultures,
passing through the flowered arches of
Takeshita-dri will reveal all you need.
Youll find salons to pouf your hair into a
gigantic fro, white platform Mary Janes
to go with your bloody nurses outfit and
creative inspiration from the teen tribes.
SPIRAL RECORDS Map p110 Music
Six floors of appealing products for your
children to fall in lust with and which you
h11am-8pm; 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku;
bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
sand (exit B1)
Located just inside the entrance of the Spi-
ral building, Spiral Records is both a vendor
and an experimental label. The listening
stations feature avant-garde tunes both
new and old. The staff spins records while
you browse.
LAFORET BUILDING
Map p110 Shopping Mall
industrial robots are big in Japan. While the spread of online shopping, courier services and convenience stores
h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku
(Omote-sand exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji-
jingmae (exit 5)
This rounded 70s edifice must be the teen
shopping capital of the world. The malls
hundreds of shops sell the trendiest garb,
meant to be worn for a fleeting season and may still be paying for next year. In fact, you
lonelyplanet.com
then tossed into the trash. Sizes here fit tiny yourself may be seduced by plastic-bobbled
Tokyo teens, so unless youre very petite, barrettes, Pokmon paraphernalia or nos-
this will be a window-shopping, people- talgia-inducers like Hello Kitty or Ultraman.
watching venture. Claustrophobes should avoid the store at
weekends when it teems with teens.
CONDOMANIA Map p110 Speciality Store
SHINJUKU
Shopping in Shinjuku can be a little over-
Shibuya-ku; h10.30am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am-
11pm Fri-Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line whelming. From the moment you step out of
to Omote-sand (exit A5) the train station (ringed by malls and depart-
Occupying a prime corner of the Omote- ment stores), the lights and noise make the
sand and Meiji-dri intersection, the whole place seem like the interior of a bustling
Condomania storefront may be Tokyos casino. But there are some great shops amid
cheekiest rendezvous point. Inside are con- all the chaos, and you can find just about any-
doms of all colours, sizes and flavours. thing your heart desires here. Two branches of
the Kinokuniya bookstore (see p143 & p119) are
UNDERCOVER Map p110 Streetwear here, as is stately Isetan, one of Tokyos most
revered department stores ,which caters to the
%3407-1232; 5-3-18 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; young set. It is also a great place to come to
shop for electronics if youre not motivated
Line to Omote-sand (exit A5) to trek all the way to Akihabara.
Former punk band frontman Jun Taka-
hashis take on youth-minded streetwear is SEKAID Map p116 Art Supplies
still crazy after all this time. His Undercover
Lab, designed by architect Astrid Klein, is %5379-1111; www.sekaido.co.jp, in Japanese;
just up from Yohji Yamamoto (opposite). 3-1-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am-9pm;
bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-
KIDDYLAND Map p110 Toy Shop sanchme (exit C1)
To the east of Shinjuku Station, Sekaid,
%3409-3431; 6-1-9 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; whose entrance is marked by a banner
SHOPPING SHINJUKU
h10am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingmae depicting the Mona Lisa, sells a broad array
(exit 4) of art supplies such as pens, brushes and
easels, as well as fine paper and a vast
selection of manga.
EVERYWHERE VENDORS
Japan has the largest number of vending machines in the world 5.5 million and counting and they suck in nearly $60
billion yearly. They are remarkable for both their ubiquity they can be found everywhere from bullet trains to desolate
rural villages to the slops of Mt Fuji and their variety. They dispense almost every consumer product conceivable: from
cigarettes to sake, rice, popcorn, hamburgers, hot noodles, pornography, sex toys, bouquets, kerosene, toilet paper,
fishing tackle, horseracing bets, travel insurance and underwear. Even, legends say, used underwear (for fetishists).
Where do they all come from? Probably the best answer was from a newspaper cartoonist who drew a giant Japanese
vending machine dispensing you guessed it vending machines.
Tsutomu Washizu, author of Jidhanbaiki no Bunkashi (The Cultural History of Vending Machines) has sug-
gested that the Japanese love of convenience and automation has fuelled their popularity thats also why
has taken some wind out of their sails, vending machines in Japan are set to go high-tech: they will require
special IDs from tobacco and alcohol purchasers to prevent underage sales, and onboard cameras will alert
police to vandalism or theft. But do these quiet, fluorescent providers also address a deeper social need among a
population that is constrained by rigid social hierarchies and protocols every day? Says Takashi Kurosaki, director-
general of the Japan Vending Machine Manufacturers Association: People clearly want to purchase things without
having to talk to others.
145
lonelyplanet.com

ISETAN
IKEBUKURO

Map p116 Department Store
%3352-1111; www.isetan.co.jp; 3-14-1 Shinjuku,
Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm; bMarunouchi or
Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exits B3,
B4 & B5)
In addition to its stunning food hall in
the basement, Isetan boasts an excellent
yukata department as well as several floors
of designer goods. Check out the stores
I-club, a free service that provides English-
speaking staff for visiting shoppers. The
membership desk for this service is located
on the 7th floor of the Isetan annexe
building.
DISK UNION
Map p116
%3352-2691; www.diskunion.co.jp, in Japanese;
3-31-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-9pm;
bShinjuku (central east exit)
The stairwell at Disk Union is papered with
posters of old glam and punk bands. The
place is known by local audiophiles as
Tokyos best used CD and vinyl store. Six
storeys carry a variety of musical styles.
Theres a shop in the Jimbch area (Map
p68) as well.
SAKURAYA
SHOPPING IKEBUKURO
Prices on everyday commodities like eyeglasses
may be slightly cheaper in Ikebukuro come
here to buy no-frills stuff, not Prada. Ikebukuro
has big department stores, but its never quite
taken off as a shopping destination. What it is
good for is bargains on wares youll find in other
parts of the city. If youre an anime or manga
fan, check out the shops along Otome Rd by the
Sunshine City complex (see Mandarake, p143).
JAPAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT CENTER
Map p122 Craft
%5954-6066; www.kougei.or.jp/english/center
.html; 1st & 2nd fl, Metropolitan Plaza Bldg, 1-11-1
Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h11am-7pm;
Music bIkebukuro (Metropolitan exit)
Though this spot bills itself as a museum
(p123) its primarily a shop that carries tradi-
tional crafts in a variety of media. Lacquer-
work, ceramics, natural-bristle paintbrushes
and knives are on display and for sale.
SEIBU Map p122 Department Store
%3981-0111; www2.seibu.co.jp in Japanese;
1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-
9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; bIkebukuro
station (east exit)
One of the original big two of Ikebukuros
lonelyplanet.com
ANTIQUE FAIRS & FLEA MARKETS
After days of white-gloved attendants in Tokyos perfectly ordered department stores, one longs for the colourful an-
archy and dust of a good flea market. Tokyo has loads of flea markets and antique fairs, many held on temple or shrine
grounds, where you can spend hours among the bric-a-brac. Dont get your hopes up about finding treasures, however,
for gone are the days when astute buyers could cart off antique tansu (wooden chests) or virtuosic lacquerware worth
thousands of dollars. Things to look for include old kimono, obi (belts used to fasten kimono), scrolls, pottery, old Japa-
nese postcards, Chinese snuff bottles, antique toys and costume jewellery. Though bargaining is permitted, remember
that its considered bad form to drive too hard a bargain. If your Japanese is lacking, bring a pencil and paper.
The following are some of Tokyos better flea markets and antique fairs. Check with the Asakusa Tourist Information
Center (TIC; p255) before going, as shrine and temple events sometimes interfere with the scheduling of markets. There
are also comprehensive listings in Japanese at www.kottouichi.jp.
Azabu-jban Antique Market (Map pp967; hfrom 8am 1st Sat of the month; bNamboku or Toei edo Line to
Azabu-jban) This flea market is held in the public square a block west of Azabu-jban Station.
Hanazono-jinja Flea Market (Map p116; hdawn-dusk Sun; bMarunouchi or
Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme, exit B3 or B5) A good mix of old and new feature at this market, ranging from
antique ceramics to new junk jewellery and used yukata (light cotton summer kimono).
Nogi-jinja Flea Market (Map p92; hdawn-dusk 2nd Sun of the month; bChi-
yoda Line to Nogizaka, main exit) The place to go for ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) and antiques from Asia and Europe.
Roppongi Antique Fair (Map pp967; h8am-7pm 4th Thu & Fri of the month; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi, exit 3) Another antique market that happens rain or shine; find good ceramics and quality dealers here.
Tg-jinja Fine Arts Market (Map p110; h4am-3pm 1st, 4th & 5th Sun of the month;
bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) Rummage through this trove of authentic antique wares and
kimono, and odds and ends of various vintages.
building is probably the best for its focus DECKS TOKYO BEACH
on J-pop and other contemporary Japanese Map p131 Shopping Mall
music. Try the branch in the Ikebukuro
Metropolitan Plaza for classical. %3599-6500; www.odaiba-decks.com; 1-6-1
Daiba, Minato-ku; h11am-9pm; bYurikamome

Map p116 Photography/Electronics
block on the east side of Ikebukuro station
%3352-4711; www.sakuraya.co.jp, in Japanese;
3-26-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-10pm;
bShinjuku (central east exit)
With a few branches around Shinjuku, this
is main rival to Yodobashi Camera (see below).
Like Yodobashi, it offers an incredible
selection of lenses and digital cameras, and
prices are similar at both shops.
YODOBASHI CAMERA
Map p116 Photography/Electronics
age-sized togs (by Tokyo standards) to be
%3346-1010; www.yodobashi.com, in Japanese;
1-11-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am-
10pm; bShinjuku (west exit)
Yodobashi is Tokyos largest and most
highly regarded camera emporium, but in
addition it also carries loads of computers
and other electronics. Its prices are very
competitive and tourists are waived Japa-
nese consumption tax if a valid passport
is shown.
146
department stores, Seibu occupies a huge
and purveys all the usuals, with an impres-
sive depachika for the foodies.
TBU Map p122 Department Store
%3981-2211; www.tobu-dept.jp; 1-1-25 Nishi-
Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-8pm; bIke-
bukuro (west exit)
This is one of Ikebukuros two big depart-
ment stores, and has a whopping 15 floors.
Of particular note are the larger-than-aver-
found in the central building. This doesnt
mean an availability of plus sizes, but that
some items will be larger than a typical small.
HMV Map p122
%5953-6711; www.hmv.co.jp; 3rd fl, 1-22-10
Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10.30am-
10.30pm; bIkebukuro (east exit)
HMV has branches all over Tokyo, but
this one in the Humax Pavilion Ikebukuro
BIC CAMERA
Map p122 Photography/Electronics
%3988-0002; www.biccamera.com, in Japanese;
1-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-
9pm; bIkebukuro (east exit)
Bic Camera carries lots of delicious food
for shutterbugs. Bins of bargain film can
be found in front and a variety of Japanese
cameras are on display. The top floors stock
a fairly extensive array of audio and video
equipment, most of it at prices comparable
to those in Akihabara (see p67). There are
four other Bic stores in the neighbourhood.
ODAIBA
Odaiba was designed as an entertainment and
Music shopping mecca, so it should come as no sur-
prise that two of its main attractions are malls
with views over the water. Youll find both
big-name designers and small shops here.
Venus Fort is worth a peek to take in its timed
sunrise and sunset (artificial, of course).
SHOPPING ODAIBA
Line to Odaiba Kaihin-ken (main exit)
Decks is divided into two malls, Island and
Seaside. Both house a rainy days worth
of browsing, and if youre hungering for
Chinese food, the Island Mall boasts Daiba
Little Hong Kong. Theres also Tokyo Joy-
polis, a high-tech amusement park run by
Sega, with virtual reality games and indoor
roller-coasters.
VENUS FORT
Map p131 Shopping Mall
%3599-1735; www.venusfort.co.jp/multi/index_
e.html; 1 Aomi, Minato-ku; h11am-9pm Sun-Fri,
11am-10pm Sat; bYurikamome to Aomi (main
exit) or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (main exit)
Shopping officially became recreation
when Venus Fort declared itself a retail
theme park just for women. The faux Italian
Villa and the staged sunrise and sunset
every few hours add to the idea. Among
the hundreds of shops, Gaultier has opened
an outlet here, as has Donna Karan.
147
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
SHOPPING

148
 Lonely Planet Publications

E ATI N G

Inakaya (p164) A loud and joyful beer and BBQ spot

Japanese style of course!
Kybei (p158) Exquisite sushi served on rare pottery.
LOsier (p158) Regarded by France-loving Tokyoites as
one of the citys best.
New York Grill (p169) The views from this lofty
Shinjuku restaurant are almost as good as the food.
Rakutei (p163) Tempura is regarded as a high art at
this culinary temple.
Peter (p156) Foi gras meets fatty tuna at the Peninsula
Hotels celebrated dining room.
Canal Caf (p157) Savour a slow cocktail at one of the
citys few al fresco dining spots.
Daiwa Sushi (p160) This Tsujkiji institution will make
you rethink sushi for breakfast.
China Room (p164) A Roppongi Hills affair all the way,
this Chinese banquet-style restaurant is tops.
Coucagno (p167) Spot Shibuya shoppers from lofty
heights at this landmark French restaurant.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

 WHAT TO EAT & WHERE Noodles

lonelyplanet.com
E ATI N G Sushi & Sashimi Its hard to imagine how Tokyo could function
without noodles. From traditional Japanese
The tonnes of fish that pass through the fish staples such as soba (buckwheat noodles) and
market in Tsukiji (for more information see udon, to that much beloved Chinese import
Who could ever weary of moonlit nights and well-cooked rice? p64) are the telltale signs of what locals are that is rmen, Tokyoites slurp down an impres-
Traditional Japanese Proverb eating. Almost every Japanese meal you eat sive amount of noodles in their daily lives.
will probably include something fishy, and Soba are thin, brownish buckwheat-based
Tomes have been written about Japanese food, not least on the delights of noodles, the perils at times the sheer variety of seafood available noodles, while udon are thick, white wheat
and pleasures of raw fish, and the health-inducing properties of everything from shiitake in Tokyo can be overwhelming. noodles. Soba is more closely associated with
mushrooms and miso soup to pickled ginger and fresh wasabi. As visitors to Tokyo quickly With that said, the first thing most visitors the Kant region, which includes Tokyo,
discover, Japanese people are absolutely obsessed with food. in Tokyo are intent on eating is either sushi while udon are more reminiscent of Kansai
In Japan the simple act of eating permeates every walk of life, fills the airwaves and book- ( or ) or sashimi (). Sushi is (around Osaka). With that said, the vast ma-
shelves, and figures largely in most conversations. Indeed, an invitation to have a meal with a raw fish served with sweetened, vinegared jority of restaurants throughout the country
Japanese person is better seen as an opportunity to commune over food. Breaking bread (or rice while sashimi is slices of raw fish served serve both.
splitting rice) is an act of mutual celebration, a way of reinforcing group identities and welcom- with soy sauce for dipping. When hot, both varieties are served in a
ing outsiders into the fold. There are two main types of sushi: nigiri- large bowl of light, bonito-flavoured broth.
Needless to say, the Japanese are voracious gourmands, and a highlight of any trip to zushi (; a small slice of fish served You can also order them served cold and piled
Tokyo is its vast culinary landscape. From traditional Japanese staples such as sashimi and on a small pillow of rice) and maki-zushi ( on a bamboo mat; very refreshing in warm
tempura, to more modern inventions such as rmen (noodles) and shabu-shabu (sauted ; served in a seaweed roll). Lesser- weather. Note that although its highly rude
beef), Japanese cuisine is as varied as it is simply delicious. See the Language chapter (p259) known varieties include chirashi-zushi ( in the West, it is customary to slurp your
for more information. ; a layer of rice covered in strips of fish, noodles, both to cool them (when hot) and
vegetables and julienned egg), oshi-zushi ( to enhance the flavour.
ETIQUETTE are typically large (at least 500mL) and the
glasses small. Hold your glass with both hands
; fish pressed in a mould over rice) and
inari-zushi (; rice in a pocket of
The most popular type of cold noodles is
If youre worried about putting your foot in it, zaru soba, topped with slivers of dried nori
while its being filled, and dont fill your own sweet, fried tofu). Nigiri-zushi and maki-zushi
relax the Japanese dont expect you to know (; seaweed). They come with a cup of
glass; wait for someone to do this for you, usually contain a bit of wasabi (; hot
everything, and are unlikely to be offended as cool broth and small plate of wasabi and
and if youre done just leave your glass full. green horseradish).
long as you follow the standards of politeness sliced spring onions stir these into the cup
The Japanese equivalent of cheers is kampai! Sushi shops run the gamut from cheap and
of your own country. Just follow the locals for of broth and eat the noodles by dipping them
Dont use the Mediterranean toast chin chin cheerful kaiten-zushi (; conveyor-belt
things such as lifting soup bowls and slurp- in this mixture. Do not pour the broth over
unless you want to induce peals of laughter. It parlours) and stand-up eateries to more expen-
ing noodles. the noodles it creates a huge mess! At the
translates to what boys have and girls dont! sive and highly refined bars and restaurants.
Among the more important rules are those end of your meal, the server may give you
The word for delicious is oishii if you Generally speaking, quality is equated to price,
regarding chopsticks. Dont stick them up- some of the hot water used for boiling the
only learn a handful of words in Japanese, though its not necessary to eat at the best of the
right in your rice thats how rice is offered to noodles to mix with the leftover broth, which
make this one of them! If theres something best to indulge in great sushi. With Tsukiji fish
the dead! Passing food from your chopsticks you dont like, just leave it on your plate or you drink like tea.
to someone elses is a similar no-no thats market right around the corner, chances are Rmen originated in China, but its popular-
in your bowl and dont make a big deal of it. that everything you taste will be significantly
how the bones of the dead are passed in Bud- If youre at a group dinner and have eaten ity in Japan is epic. Your basic rmen is a big
dhist funeral rites. fresher than the sushi you eat back home. bowl of noodles in broth, served with toppings
enough, and the server brings more food, its
EATING ETIQUETTE

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

When taking food from shared plates,
avoid using the end of the chopsticks thats
already been in your mouth invert your
chopsticks before reaching for that tasty mor-
sel. When there are shared dishes, you will
usually be given a torizara (small plate) to
use as your own.
Before digging in, its polite to say
itadakimas[u] (literally I will receive). At
the end of the meal you should say gochis-
sama deshita (literally it was a feast), a re-
spectful way of saying that the meal was good.
Even if youre just enjoying a cup of coffee or
sampling some snacks at a shop, its polite to
use these expressions.
If youre out drinking, remember that
youre expected to keep the drinks of your
companions topped up beer bottles in Japan
150
best just to accept it and leave it, rather than
send it back.
If someone invites you to eat or drink with
them, they will be paying. In any case, its
unusual for bills to be split. Generally, at
the end of the meal something of a struggle
ensues to see who gets the privilege of paying.
If this happens, it is polite to at least make an
effort to pay the bill, though it is extremely
unlikely that your hosts will acquiesce. Ex-
ceptions are likely among younger people
or co-workers, for example, out for lunch
together.
If youre arriving at someones home, it is
polite to bring a gift. See p139 for suggestions.
And if you have been someones guest, be sure
to thank them upon leaving. Following up
with a thank you note is an excellent touch.
SUSHI PRIMER
So, youve made it to the sushi restaurant, but now youre feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Heres a
quick crash course to help you get started.
If youre seated at the sushi counter, you can simply point at what you want; most of the selections are visible in a
refrigerated glass case between you and the itamae (sushi chef ). One portion (ichi-nin mae) usually means two pieces
of sushi. If ordering la carte feels like a chore, you can order a mori-awase (assortment, generally six or seven pieces);
prices vary according to the type of fish used.
Unless the sushi is already dressed with a sauce, youll probably want to dip it in shyu (soy sauce) before popping
it into your mouth. Pour just a little soy sauce at a time from the bottle on the counter into the small saucer provided
(dont fill the saucer), and if there is a side of wasabi, add a little at a time it can be very hot! Remember, the soy
sauce is used to flavour the fish and not the rice, so dont dip your sushi rice-side down (plus, the rice tends to fall
apart in the soy sauce).
If youre not good at using chopsticks, dont worry, sushi is one of the few foods in Japan that it is perfectly acceptable
to eat with your hands. Slices of gari (pickled ginger) are served to help refresh the palate. The beverage of choice with
sushi is beer or sake, with a cup of cloudy green tea at the end of the meal.
151
lonelyplanet.com

Sukiyaki, Shabu-shabu & pizza or pancake, the resemblance is in form

lonelyplanet.com
THE HISTORY OF RMEN only. At an okonomiyaki restaurant you sit
The history and lore behind natures most perfect food is worthy of textbooks. Yakiniku around a teppan (iron hotplate), armed with
Sukiyaki, shabu-shabu and yakiniku are fa- a spatula and chopsticks to cook your choice
Originating in China, scholars debate exactly when this hardiest of noodles was first introduced to Japan. Although
vourites of most foreign visitors to Japan, per- of meat, seafood and vegetables in a cabbage
it may have crossed over at several times in the history of the nation, the first documented record of rmen-eating was
haps because you get to cook them yourself and vegetable batter.
in the late 17th century by the shgun of the Tokugawa.
at the table. Some restaurants will do most of the cook-
Of course, rmen was not introduced to the Japanese masses until the Meiji era when the country first opened its
Sukiyaki () consists of thin slices ing and bring the nearly finished product to
doors to foreign interests. For most of Japans history, the diet consisted simply of steamed rice, vegetables and seafood,
of beef cooked in a broth of soy sauce, sugar your hotplate for you to season with katsuo
which partly explains why the countrys people suddenly became incessant gourmands in the late 19th century.
and sake together with a variety of vegetables bushi (; bonito flakes), soy sauce, ao-nori
During the Meiji era, American and European cuisine became the height of fashion, which sparked a large cattle- and
and tofu. After cooking, dip the ingredients (; a sea green similar to parsley), Japa-
pork-rearing industry in Japan. However, the real culinary revolution of the late 19th century was taking place in the
one by one in raw egg before eating. When nese Worcestershire-style sauce and mayon-
Chinatowns of Kbe and Yokohama, where Chinese immigrants opened up food stalls in the busy ports. Here, along with
made with high-quality beef, such as that from naise. Cheaper places, however, will simply
Chinese-style dumplings, Japanese commoners tasted their first bowls of hot, steaming rmen.
Kbe, it is a sublime experience. hand you a bowl filled with the ingredients
WWII put something of a damper on the Japanese obsession with eating gourmet, though the food industry was
Shabu-shabu () consists and expect you to cook it for yourself. If this
quick to bounce back. In the 1950s cheap US flour imports flooded the Japanese market, while ex-soldiers who had
of thin slices of beef and vegetables cooked happens, dont panic.
previously been in China proceeded to set up Chinese restaurants across the country. In a few short years rmen shops
by swirling the ingredients in a light broth First, mix the batter and filling thoroughly,
took Japan by storm, becoming something of a neighbourhood landmark.
(shabu-shabu is an onomatopoeia for the then place it on the hot grill, flattening it into
Today, rmen shops are found throughout the country, and although their nutritional value is somewhat debated,
swish-swish sound the beef makes in the a thick pancake. After five minutes or so, use
warming up with a bowl of rmen remains the great social equaliser in Japan.
pot), then dipping them in special sesame the spatulas to flip it and cook for another five
seed and/or citrus-based sauce. minutes. Then season and dig in.
such as sliced pork, bean sprouts and leeks, and beef stew. Say toriaezu (thats all for Yakiniku () consists of thin slices of Most okonomiyaki places also serve yaki-
though you can expect to see anything from now) when finished ordering each set of beef or pork that are grilled over hot coals, soba (; fried noodles) and yasai-
Hokkaid butter corn and fresh seafood to dishes. and then dipped in a variety of sauces. A vari- itame (; stir-fried vegetables). All
wontons and Chinese vegetables. Although Izakaya food is usually fairly inexpensive. ation on Korean barbecue, yakiniku is typi- of this is washed down with mugs of draught
you may be a loyal rmen devotee in your Depending on how much you drink, you cally eaten with kimchi (; spicy pickled beer. Also look for okonomiyaki at festivals
own country, we can assure you that instant can expect to spend just 2000 to 5000 per cabbage) and rice, and is currently one of the and street fairs.
noodles in the West are ill-preparation for the person. most popular types of cuisine in Tokyo.
deliciousness that is real rmen. All three of these dishes are prepared in a
As the bread and butter of most Japanese, pot over a fire at your table; your server will Shokud
a large number of noodle shops in Tokyo are Tempura usually help you get started and keep a close A shokud () is the most common type
simple tachigui (; stand-and-eat) Tempura () consists of portions of watch. Take your time, add the ingredients lit- of restaurant in Japan, and is found near train
affairs. Of course, depending on what kind fish, prawns and vegetables cooked in fluffy, tle by little and savour the flavours as you go. stations, tourist spots and just about any other
of mood youre in and how much cash you nongreasy batter. Typically, tempura is served place where people congregate. Easily dis-
with a small bowl of ten-tsuyu (; a light tinguished by the presence of plastic food
want to part with, you can instead choose a
slower, more sophisticated sit-down noodle
brown sauce) and a plate of grated daikon ( Okonomiyaki displays in the window, these inexpensive
; white radish) to mix into the sauce ahead The name means cook what you like, and places usually serve a variety of washoku (
shop, or a highly refined restaurant serving
up handmade noodles on impressive spreads
of time. Dip each piece of tempura into this okonomiyaki is an inexpensive opportunity to ; Japanese) and yshoku (; Western)
sauce before eating it. Tempura is best when do just that. Sometimes described as Japanese dishes.
(usually bamboo or other natural plant ma-
EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

terial served on fine china).
Izakaya
Izakaya () translates as drinking
house, the Japanese equivalent of a pub.
Theyre great places for a casual meal, with a
wide selection of food, hearty atmosphere and,
of course, plenty of beer and sake. Izakaya can
be identified by their rustic faades and the
red lanterns outside their doors.
Patrons typically order a few dishes at
a time, from a selection of Japanese foods
such as yakitori (; skewers of grilled
chicken), kushiyaki (; other grilled
skewers, often vegetables), sashimi and
grilled fish, as well as Japanese interpreta-
tions of Western foods such as french fries
152
its hot, so dont wait too long use the sauce
to cool each piece, and dig in.
Although there are speciality tempura THE HOLY TRINITY OF JAPANESE FOOD
restaurants in Tokyo, the dish is commonly
Although modern Japanese cuisine is highly refined, for millennia Japanese people survived on just three staple crops,
found elsewhere, such as at izakaya.
namely rice, soya beans and pickled vegetables. Today these humble food items are often passed over in favour of fish
and meats, though they continue to make a small but profound presence at virtually every meal.
Rice is more than just food in Japan; its an essential component of Japanese culture. Throughout the majority of
Japans history, communities were founded on and maintained by rice farming. In fact, the food is so central to the
Japanese idea of eating that the word for rice, gohan (), is also the word for a meal. Despite the influx of foreign
cuisines, rice remains the centrepiece of a Japanese meal.
The humble soya bean has a revered place in the Japanese food pantheon, especially since its versatile and mon-
PLACES TO GO FOR BROKE strously good for you. You probably are familiar with soy sauce (; shyu) but may not know that miso (
Botan (p160) ; fermented soya bean paste) also comes from the soya bean. Tofu (; soya bean curd) is another soya staple,
Coucagno (p167) as well as edamame (), which are whole soya bean pods that have been quickly boiled.
Nobu (p168) Tsukemono (; pickled vegetables) were essential to the diet of the Japanese who until very recently had no way
shima Endomae-Dokoro (p173) of procuring fresh vegetables for much of the year. In honour of this tradition, pickles are still eaten today, with the most
Peter (p156) common being made from daikon (; a large, long white radish), eggplant, cucumber and mixed greens.
153

lonelyplanet.com
At lunch, and sometimes at dinner, the
easiest meal to order at a shokud is a teishoku
(; set-course meal), which is sometimes
also called ranchi setto (; lunch entice passers-by.
set) or ksu (; set meal). This usually
includes a main dish of meat or fish, a bowl
of rice, miso soup, a small salad and some
tsukemono (; pickled vegetables).
Kaiseki
Kaiseki (; elegant ceremonial food) is the
pinnacle of Japanese cuisine, where ingredi-
ents, preparation, setting and presentation
come together to create a dining experience
quite unlike any other. Born as an adjunct to
the tea ceremony, kaiseki is a largely vegetarian
affair (though fish is often served, meat never
appears on the kaiseki menu). One usually eats
kaiseki in the private room of a rytei (;
an especially elegant style of traditional res-
taurant), often overlooking a tranquil garden.
The meal is served in several small courses,
giving the diner an opportunity to admire the
plates and bowls, which are carefully chosen to
complement the food and season. Rice is eaten
last (usually with an assortment of pickles) and
the drink of choice is sake or beer.
Tonkatsu
Tonkatsu () is a deep-fried, crumbed
pork cutlet served with a savoury sauce.
Tonkatsu is a staple that appears in most Japa-
nese restaurants, though youll have to head to
the speciality shops for the good stuff.
Unagi
Even if you cant stand the creature, you owe
EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE
it to yourself to try unagi (; freshwater
eel) at least once while in Tokyo. Its cooked
over hot coals and brushed with a rich sauce
composed of soy sauce and sake. Often you
can sprinkle it with powdered sansh (
INTERNATIONAL FOOD
Canal Cafe (p157)
China Room (p164)
Daidaiya (p163)
Fonda de la Madrugada (p168)
Hannibal Deux (p169)
154
; Sichuan pepper), a pungent herb that
has numbing properties in the mouth. Some
unagi restaurants keep barrels of live eels to
possible to list all the names. However, youll
probably find many variations on the anko
Fugu
The deadly fugu (globefish, aka puffer fish
or blowfish) is eaten more for the thrill than
the taste. The actual meat is rather bland but
acclaimed for its fine texture. Nonetheless, if
you have the money to lay out for a fugu din-
ner (around 10,000), it makes a good been
there, done that story.
Since most of its internal organs (especially
the liver) are highly poisonous, fugu can only
be prepared by chefs who have a licence and
have undergone extensive training. With that
said, the danger of fugu poisoning is negli-
gible, though Japanese joke that you should
always let your dining companion try the first
piece of fugu. If they are still talking after five
minutes, you can consider the dish safe.
If youre eating fugu because youve been
challenged by a Japanese friend, and you want
to repay them with a cruel joke, hold your
hand still and let your chopsticks drop onto
the table (in case of poisoning, the extremi-
ties go first). On second thought, dont do
this, as it will probably alarm everyone else
in the restaurant.
For some liquid courage, try a glass of hire-
zake (toasted fugu fin in hot sake), the tradi-
tional accompaniment to a fugu dinner.
Sweets
Although most Japanese-style restaurants
dont serve dessert (plates of sliced fruit are
sometimes served at the end of a meal), there
is no lack of sweets in Japan. Wagashi (
; traditional Japanese sweets) are sold in
speciality stores for you to eat at home. Many
of the more delicate-looking ones are made to
balance the strong, bitter taste of the special
matcha (; whisked green tea) served dur-
ing the tea ceremony.
Even if you have the sweetest tooth in the
world and have sampled every type of sweet
thats come your way, you may find your-
self surprised by Japanese confectionery.
Many sweets contain the red adzuki-bean
paste called anko (). This earthy,
rich filling turns up in a variety of pastries,
including those you pick up at the corner
bakery shop. Legions of foreign visitors have
been surprised not altogether unpleas-
antly expecting chocolate and finding
anko instead.
With such a wide variety of sweets, its im-
with mochi (; glutinous rice) theme. Sweet
shops are easy to spot they usually have open
fronts with their wares attractively laid out in
wooden trays to tempt hungry shoppers.
For Western-style sweets, try cafs, coffee
shops and pastry shops for a variety of cakes,
muffins and the like; these are also abundant
in Tokyo. If all else fails duck into a conven-
ience store for aisukurmu (
; ice cream) or chokorto (;
chocolate).
Drinks
Unlike the Western world, sodas and other
sweetened drinks rarely appear on the menu
(with the exception of course being Western-
style fast-food restaurants). Needless to say,
the beverage of choice in Japan is o-cha (
; green tea), which is served hot or cold
depending on the time of year. You can also
expect to find subtle variations on this tradi-
tional brew.
Although the canned coffee you get from
vending machines does resemble the watered-
down brews you find in the US, European-
style cafs serving the good stuff are found on
virtually every corner in Tokyo. In addition to
the standard cup of khii (; coffee), lunch hours. In smaller eateries in less central
you can also expect to find esupursu (
; espresso), kapuchno (
; cappuccino) and even matcha-rte (
; matcha latte).
When it comes to alcohol, the Japanese
are avid consumers of bru (; beer), from 5pm or 6pm to 9pm or 10pm. Last orders
which tend to be light and easy-drinking la-
gers. Wain (; wine) and uisuki ( the kitchen closes.
; whiskey) are also fairly common tipples,
though their high-status means that theyre
significantly more expensive than in the West.
Surprisingly, sake or nihonshu ( or Haute cuisine fetches high prices here, as any-
; rice wine) is falling out of favour with the
younger generation, though the potent shch
(; distilled grain liquor) is becoming ever
so fashionable.
Vegetarians & Vegans
Japan can be a frustrating place for vegetarians
and vegans, especially since dashi (; fish
stock) is used as a base for most dishes. On the
bright side however, the more cosmopolitan
lonelyplanet.com
FOR VEGETARIANS
Mominoki House (p169)
Natural Harmony Angolo (p169)
Nataraj (p159)
Natural House (p166)
Shizenkan II (p168)
neighbourhoods in Tokyo boast vegetarian
eateries, many of them serving vegan meals
and exclusively organic produce. For a list of
the top picks for vegetarians, see above.
PRACTICALITIES
For first-timers (and some seasoned veter-
ans) in Tokyo, deciphering Japanese menus is
enough to make anyone lose their appetite. If
you fall into this category, consider searching
out restaurants where English menus are avail-
able. Throughout this chapter, we have added
a simple E to listings where this is the case.
Opening Hours
Restaurants in hubs such as Shinjuku, Ike-
bukuro or Shibuya are usually open seven
days a week from 11am or noon until 9pm or
10pm, with many offering set specials during
areas such as Ebisu or Asakusa, hours often
run shorter, and its not unusual to find some
places shuttered on Sunday, Monday or Tues-
day. Generally, the lunch hour goes from 11am
or noon to 2pm or 3pm, while dinner is served
EATING PRACTICALITIES
are usually taken an hour or half-hour before
How Much?
where else in the world. An upmarket sushi
dinner can easily run to 20,000. But despite
what youve heard about Tokyos exorbi-
tant prices, its possible to eat very well on
a midrange or even modest budget without
needing to raid the shelves of the convenience
stores or eating curried rice twice a day. Good
washoku (; Japanese set meal) can be had
for around 1000, and a tremendous bowl
of noodle soup might set you back around
700. You should know, too, that Tokyos
155
lonelyplanet.com

little-kept secret, the bargain lunch set, can PETER Map pp523 youre here is to savour a cocktail while

sometimes put your foot in the door at places
that might otherwise be beyond your budget.
Remember too that tipping is not customary,
and if you try it, you may get chased down
the street by staff wanting to reunite you with
your change.
Booking Tables
Reservations are essential at many top-end
spots. Some of the finer Japanese restaurants
will be able to reserve a table for you over the
phone, though in some cases it helps if you can
speak some Japanese. If you dont, your hotel
can usually make the booking for you. As for
midrange and budget spots, reservations are un-
necessary except in the case of larger groups.
IMPERIAL PALACE &
MARUNOUCHI
Theres no shortage of restaurants in the
International
%6270-2763; 24th fl, Peninsula Hotel, 1-8-1
Yrakuch, Chiyoda-ku; set courses from 10,000;
h11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight; bJR
Yamanote Line to Yrakuch (west exit); E
Its hard to put a price on unchecked
luxury, especially when youre talking
about the main dining room at the Tokyo
branch of the world-famous Peninsula
Hotel. Offering an eclectic breadth of in-
ternational cuisine, diners can choose from
a variety of offerings ranging from fatty
tuna sashimi spreads to duck foie gras, and
create their own unique set course. While
youre sipping fine wine and spoiling your
palette with some of the finest delicacies
from around the world, enjoy the stunning
view of Central Tokyo while pondering how
good life can be.
HUMP Map pp523
Sushi
PRICE GUIDE
over 5000 a meal
2000-5000 a meal
2000 a meal or less
of California-style sushi in Tokyo. The main
dining room boasts spectacular views
overlooking the moat of the Imperial Pal-
ace, though diners in the know opt for the
private sushi bar where you can order your
California rolls directly from the chef.
KUA AINA Map pp523 Burgers & Sandwiches
%5220-2440; 5th fl, Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1
Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; burgers 750-1500;
h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun; bJR
Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo (Marunouchi
exits); E
From the shores of Haleiwa comes this
Hawaiian burger chain, which serves up the
lonelyplanet.com
soaking up the European atmosphere.
KADO Map p56 Traditional
%3268-2410; 1-32 Akagi-Motomachi, Shinjuku-
ku; dishes around 2000; h11.30am-11pm;
bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to
Iidabashi (exit B3)
If you havent had the privilege of eating
dinner inside a Japanese home, a meal
at Kado is a close approximation. Housed
in a Shwa-era house built in 1950, Kado
reveals a rare glimpse of what life was like
in Tokyo prior to the economic miracle that
transformed the capital in the second half of
the 20th century. Dishes, which emphasise
traditional Japanese recipes and seasonal
produce, are enhanced by the incredible
service and familial ambience. There is no
English menu, though the staff will try to ac-
commodate you to the best of their ability.

proximity of Tokyo Station and the Imperial %5293-4813; 2nd fl, Marunouchi MY Plaza, 2-1-1
obligatory pineapple-topped burgers in a BEER BAR BITTER Map p56 Belgian
Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; sushi plates 2000-3000 tropical-themed setting. Lovers of avocado,
Palace, though a good number of them cater fabulous chips, savoury mahi-mahi fillets
to the dine-and-dash lunch crowd. Of course, h11.30am-late; bJR Yamanote or Marunouchi %5261-3087; 1-14 Tsukudocho, Shinjuku-ku;
Line to Tokyo (Marunouchi exits); E and innovative microbrews would be wise dishes around 2000; h5.30pm-late Mon-Fri;
even salarymen (businessmen) and govern- to pop by for lunch, even if only to watch
ment workers need a nice sit-down meal from Modelled after the original Hump, a famous bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to
salarymen dreaming of warmer climes. Iidabashi (exit C1); E
time to time, which is why you can expect to Los Angeles sushi spot situated near the
find a number of trendy and upmarket eater- water in Santa Monica, this Marunouchi This backstreet restaurant in Kagurazaka
can be tough to find (hint look up!),
ies scattered among the avenues. instalment marks the increasing popularity
CENTRAL TOKYO
More a geographic area than a contiguous
though like all hidden establishments, it is
certainly worth the effort. In addition to the
RESTAURANT PRIMER neighbourhood, Central Tokyo lacks a de- standard Japanese pub offerings, Bitter has
finable personality to influence its restaurant a number of traditional European staples
Youve made it to a Japanese restaurant, but now youre feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Heres a scene. However, the heart of the city is home on the menu including steamed mussels
quick crash course to help you get started. to every imaginable type of restaurant, in- and shepherds pie, though dont let these
When you enter a restaurant, often the entire staff will shout a hearty irasshaimase! (welcome!). In all but the most cluding a few gems that are definitely worth culinary concoctions distract you from the
casual places the waiter or waitress will next ask you, nan-mei sama? (how many people?). Indicate the answer with
EATING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

EATING CENTRAL TOKYO

seeking out. impressive Belgian beer menu.
your fingers, which is what the Japanese do, or respond with the number (eg san-nin for three people). You may also
be asked if you would like to sit at a zashiki (low table on the tatami) or at a tburu (table) or kaunt (counter) . More
CANAL CAF Map p56 Italian SEIGETSU Map p56 Izakaya
and more restaurants these days offer the fun compromise of hori-kotatsu seating: you sit on the tatami, but theres a
well beneath the table for you to place your legs.
Once seated you will be given an o-shibori (hot towel), a cup of tea or water and a menu. The o-shibori is for wiping %3260-8068; 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; dishes %3269-4320; 6-77-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku;
your hands and face. When youre finished with it, just roll it up and leave it next to your place. Now comes the hard around 2000; h5.30pm-11.30pm Tue-Sun; dishes around 1500; h5pm-late; bNamboku,
part: ordering. If you dont read Japanese, you can use the romanised translations in this chapter to help you, or direct bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to Iidabashi
the waiters attention to the Japanese script. If this doesnt work, there are two phrases that may help: o-susame wa Iidabashi (exit B3); E (exit C1)
nan desuka? (what would you recommend?) and o-makase shimasu (I leave it to you). If youre still having problems, When summer evenings in the capital hang In a district that is increasingly becoming
you can try pointing at other diners food or dragging the server outside to point at the plastic food displays in the heavy with humidity, you may long for a dominated by chain pubs, this traditional
window if the restaurant has them. cold glass of white wine and a light meal by Japanese izakaya is perfect for all of your
When youve finished eating, you can signal for the bill by crossing one index finger over the other to form an X. This the riverside. Sadly, Tokyo has a regrettable dining and drinking needs, especially since
is the standard sign for cheque please. You can also say o-kanj o kudasai. Remember, there is no tipping in Japan dearth of alfresco restaurants with breathing there are on-call shch consultants to
and tea and tap water are free. Usually you will be given a bill to take to the cashier at the front of the restaurant. At room, though rare canalside spots such as help you match your meal to your booze.
more upmarket places, the host of the party will discreetly ask to be excused and pay before the group leaves. Only the this Iidabashi institution do exist. The speci- Although there isnt an English menu, the
bigger and more international places take credit cards. ality here is wood-fired thin-crust pizzas and speciality here is charcoal-grilled meats and
When leaving, it is polite to say to the restaurant staff gochis-sama deshita (it was a real feast). Italian pastas such as scallop and shrimp in vegetables, so you shouldnt have too many
a light cream sauce, though the real reason problems pointing out what you want.
156 157
lonelyplanet.com
GINZA
Ginza has always been a stronghold of the
citys finest restaurants, with excellent sushi,
marvellous French haute cuisine and ethereal
surroundings. It can be challenging to find
a modestly priced meal in the evenings, but
poking around the resutoran-gai (restaurant
towns) of department stores can turn up good
lunch deals.
LOSIER Map p62 French
tery thrown by Rosanjin Kitaoji (for more
%3571-6050; 7-5-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses
around 5000; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm; bGinza,
Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit B6)
In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the top
of the culinary ladder, which is why its no
small feat that local gourmets consider
LOsier to be the best around. But if you wish
to analyse the foie gras yourself, youll need
to book as far as possible in advance since a
table at LOsier is a highly coveted commod-
ity. However, once the wine hits your head
and the food hits your lips, youll key into the
Art Decoinspired surroundings and realise
that Paris isnt that far away after all.
TEN-ICHI Map p62 Tempura
%3571-1949; 6-6-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses
around 5000; h11.30am-9.30pm; bGinza,
Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3
& B6); E
Since 1930 tempura at the much esteemed
Ten-Ichi has rightfully earned its reputation
as supernaturally light and nongreasy. The
dignified dining area at the flagship Ginza
EATING GINZA
shop is a pleasure, though you can expect
to spend significant coin for the privilege
of dining here. Ten-Ichi is regarded as the
citys best tempura, which means youre
going to need a reservation if you want to
dine among those in the know.
THE WORK OF ROSANJIN KITAOJI
Rosanjin Kitaoji (18831959), a revered calligrapher and sculptor, is famous for despising ugly things and the people
that created and condoned them. Through his professional career, he quite rancorously attacked any form of sloppiness
or mediocrity that dared call itself art.
Not surprisingly, Rosanjin was also a gourmand who was drawn to food in all its forms. As with art, in food he sought
the ideal, the beautiful and the perfect. This in turn greatly influenced his pottery, which often seems to be a kind of
meditation on the perfect container for the perfect dish.
If youre interested in experiencing Rosanjins pottery first hand, you can do so by calling ahead to Kybei (above)
where the attention to detailed arrangement is a fitting tribute to pottery whose form so closely follows beauty.
158
KYBEI Map p62
Sushi & Sashimi
%3571-6523; 8-7-6 Ginza, Ch-ku; sushi plates
3000-5000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat;
bGinza Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)
Established in 1936, the unbelievable qual-
ity and flawless presentation of Kybeis
sushi and sashimi spreads is still revered
in restaurant-rich Ginza. If you request it
beforehand and reservations are highly
recommended the owner will arrange
for your meal to be served on fine pot-
information, see below). In a city reluctant to
apply sushi superlatives, this spot is truly
considered by Tokyoites to be one of the
best.
BIRDLAND Map p62
%5250-1081; 4-2-15 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses
3000-5000; hTue-Sat 5.30-9pm; bGinza,
Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3
& B6); E
Commanding legions of yakitori-loving
followers, Birdland is something of a des-
tination for anyone in need of some seri-
ously gourmet grilled chicken. Although
yakitori comes in all shapes, sizes, colours
and organs, you wont have a difficult time
ordering here simply choose from one of
several set courses and experience first-
hand how many different ways there are to
cook up a bird.
NAIRS Map p62
%3541-8246; 4-10-7 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses
2000-3000; h11am-8.30pm; bHibiya or Toei
Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza (exit A2); E
Like Japans foremost living novelist, Mu-
rakami Haruki, Nairs was born in 1949,
signalling a shift in tone in postwar Tokyo.
Though curry restaurants are now a dime a
lonelyplanet.com
TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDS
Some Japanese seem to take perverse pleasure in challenging foreign visitors to try uniquely Japanese foods. Heres a
rogues gallery you may encounter:
Basashi () Raw horsemeat served sashimi style. Although the taste is surprisingly similar to beef, keep in
mind that youre not eating cow.
Fugu () Globefish, aka puffer fish or blowfish. Regardless of what you call it, its still deadly. For more informa-
tion, see p154.
Kujira () Whale meat. Need we say more?
Natt () Fermented soya beans that are firm in the centre and malodorous outside. When you pick one soya
bean up with your chopsticks, it usually leaves gooey strings behind it. Probably the most vilified food among
resident expats.
Shiokara () Squid intestines that are pickled until theyre pink. Verrry salty. Served as a side dish or as an
accompaniment to beer (you should be very drunk before trying this).
Shirako () Literally white children in Japanese, shirako is a term for the sperm-filled reproductive gland of the
cod fish. Although its considered a delicacy, it tastes exactly like youd think it would.
Yakitori
dozen, this was one of the first to introduce will overload your sweet tooth. Specialis-
naan and cardamom to Tokyo. Since qual- ing in just dessert, Miravile Impakt serves
ity midrange fare is a rare find in Ginza, up an elegant three-course meal that is
this neighbourhood landmark tends to be rounded out by designer teas and special-
extremely busy, though the crowds blend ity coffees.
with the Bollywood music to create a fes-
tive atmosphere. SAKATA Map p62 Soba & Udon
NATARAJ Map p62 Vegetarian %3563-7400; 2nd fl, 1-5-13 Ginza, Ch-ku;
noodles from 500; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm
%5537-1515; 7th-9th fl, 6-9-4 Ginza, Ch-ku; Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2pm Sat; bYrakuch Line to
dishes around 2000; h11.30am-11pm; bGinza, Ginza-itchme
Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A2) If you eat only one meal out, youd do well
Herbivores dont have it easy in Tokyo, to eat it here. Sakata is widely recognised
though thankfully there is reason to rejoice as one of the citys most classic noodle
Indian at this Indian-influenced vegetarian spot. spots, and the sanuki udon (a thick, silky
Nataraj brings its warm colours, low-key noodle of exceptional firmness) here is
elegance and animal-friendly cuisine to this divine. Gracious Sakata-san doesnt speak
EATING GINZA
enormous three-storey branch store in the English but will go out of his way to feed
heart of Ginza. Sizable set meals include ap- you if you look confused. Look for the 2nd-
pealing choices such as pumpkin curry and floor sign.
chickpea pakora, which go down well with
an extensive wine and beer list of domestic YRAKUCH YAKITORI ALLEY
and international favourites. Map p62 Yakitori
MIRAVILE IMPAKT Skewers from 100; bChiyoda or Hibiya Line to
Map p62 Caf Hibiya (exit 1)
Follow the smoke and steam thats loop-
%5524-0417; 2-2-14 Ginza, Ch-ku, Marronier- ing its way up from under the railway
dori, Gate 10F; desserts from 1500; h11am- tracks to this warren of rickety outdoor
10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Yrakuch (west yakitori stands. Each open-air corner is
exit); E tended by its own chef who knows ev-
Its hard to know whats more striking at erything youd ever need to about the fine
this trendy caf the chic modern interior art of grilling chicken. These stands offer
of bold colours and angular furniture, or little shelter from the elements, so dress
the fact that everything on the menu here accordingly.
159
lonelyplanet.com
TSUKIJI & SHIODOME
Right on the waterfront of Tokyo Bay, the
Tsukiji neighbourhood encircles the busiest
fish market on earth. It is here that any hard-
working, tough-talking fisherman will be
proud to tell you that youll find the best sushi
breakfast in Japan and the freshest sashimi
in the world. Enjoy it now while you can, as
the ageing market will uproot for bigger digs
across Tokyo Bay by 2015.
DAIWA SUSHI Map p65 Sushi & Sashimi
complement of your standard izakaya
%3547-6807; Bldg 6, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Ch-ku; sushi
spread 1500-3000; h5pm-1.30am Mon-Sat,
closed 2nd Wed of the month; bToei edo Line to
Tsukijishij (exit A2)
Lines are pretty much unavoidable at
Tsukijis best and most famous sushi bar,
but once youre past the noren (curtains)
and your first piece of sushi hits the coun-
ter, gratification is inevitable. Unless youre
comfortable ordering in Japanese, the
chefs sushi sets are a good bet, which can
easily be ordered by simply pointing at the
picture menu. Though the staff may be too
polite to say so, youre expected to eat and
run so others can partake in this quintes-
sential Tsukiji experience.
EDOGIN Map p65 Sushi & Sashimi
custard creams or more adventurous dishes
%3543-4401; 4-5-1 Tsukiji, Ch-ku; sushi spread
1000-3000; h11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; bToei
edo Line to Tsukijishij (exit A2)
Fat pieces of superfresh sashimi and sushi
draw the crowds at this little hole-in-the-
EATING TSUKIJI & SHIODOME
wall spot just up the way from Tsukiji
Central Fish Market. The teishoku (;
lunchtime set) is a steal at 1000, especially
since the fish literally comes from up the
street. Though theres nothing in the way
of atmosphere, the locals who come here
to eat provide the colour you need.
SAKANA-YA AJISEN Map pp489 Traditional
%3534-8483; 1-18-10 Tsukishima, Minato-ku;
plates 1000-1500; h5.30-10.30pm; bYuri-
kamome Line to Tsukishima (main exit)
Although this neighbourhood sake pub is
hidden away from the tourist masses on the
island of Tsukishima, its the real deal, and
worth seeking out if you want to sample real
brews and indulge on traditional dishes. The
160
lack of an English menu means youll have
to work hard here if you dont speak Japa-
nese, though its worth the effort to sample
rare koshu (aged sakes) and the house speci-
ality, anago (braised seawater eel).
YAPPARI TAKO Map p65 Izakaya
scent of prewar Tokyo.
%6215-8800; 1st basement fl, Shiodome City
Center, Higashi-Shimbashi 1-5-2; plates around
1000; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm; bJR Yamanote
Line to Shiodome (exit 2D)
Although Yappari Tako serves up the full
offerings, the real reason youre here is to
sample its speciality tako (; octopus)
dishes. If youre having hesitations about
sucking down a few plates of tentacled tit-
bits, the attentive staff will offer you a glass
of the shch of the day in order to ease
your inhibitions and relax your throat.
DIN TAI FUNG Map p65 Dim Sum
%5537-2081; 2nd basement fl, Higashi-Shim-
bashi 1-8-2, Caretta Shiodome; plates 300-500;
h11am-9.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shio-
dome (exit A2)
This Taiwanese-style dim sum is the perfect
choice for anyone who likes to try a little
bit of everything. Whether youre partial
to traditional steamed dumplings and rich
such as chicken feet and fried rice flour
balls, we guarantee youll eat your fill here.
Theres no English menu, but this being dim
sum, just inspect the carts as they whisk
by your table and simply grab what looks
good.
AKIHABARA & KANDA
Kanda has a large concentration of long-
standing traditional eateries, some specialis-
ing in dishes as simple as soba, others serving
prewar favourites on traditional tatami. In stark
contrast, Akihabara is home to cheap chain
restaurants, few of which really stand out.
BOTAN Map p68 Traditional
%3251-0577; 1-15 Kanda-Sudach, Chiyoda-ku;
set courses around 5000; h11.30am-8.30pm
Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Awajich (exits A3
& A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits
A3 & A5)
Botan has been making a single, perfect
dish in the same button-makers house
since before the turn of the last century. Sit
cross-legged on bamboo mats as chicken
nabe (; meat cooked in broth in an iron
pan with vegetables) simmers over a char-
coal brazier, allowing you to take in the
ISEGEN Map p68 Traditional
%3251-1229; 1-11-1 Kanda-Sudach, Chiyoda-ku;
set courses around 5000; h11.30am-2pm & 4-
9pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat Jun-Aug; bMarunouchi
Line to Awajich (exits A3 & A5) or Toei Shinjuku
Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5)
From early autumn to midspring, this old
Edo-style restaurant dishes up monkfish
stew in a splendid communal tatami room.
The rest of the year, when monkfish is out
of season, expect the same traditional sur-
roundings and a menu offering fresh river
fish. Although there is no English menu,
the communal surroundings mean that it
shouldnt be too hard to point out what
you want to eat.
MARUGO TONKATSU Map p68 Tonkatsu
%3255-6595; 1-8-14 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku;
plates 2000-3000; h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pm
Fri-Wed, closed every 3rd Wed; bJR Yamanote or
JR Sbu Line to Akihabara (Denki-gai exit)
In Akihabaras megawatt circus, Marugo sits
serenely unplugged in one of the few pre-
war houses remaining in the area. Although
the serene interior full of nostalgic diners is
nothing like the otaku (geek) parade thats
outside, Marugo survives by offerings some
seriously delicious tonkatsu atop piles of
fresh shredded cabbage.
KANDA YABU SOBA Map p68
%3251-0287; 2-10 Kanda-Awajich, Chiyoda-ku;
noodles from 500; h11.30am-8pm; bMaru-
nouchi Line to Awajich (exits A3 & A5) or Toei
Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5); E
A wooden wall and a small garden enclose
this venerable buckwheat noodle shop.
When you walk in, the staff singing out
the orders will be one of the first signs
that youve arrived in a singular, ageless
place. Raised tatami platforms and a darkly
wooded dining room set the stage for
show-stopping soba.
@HOME CAF Map p68
lonelyplanet.com
@
%5294-7704; www.cafe-athome.com; 7F Mitsuwa
Bldg, 1-11-4 Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11:30am-
9pm; bSbu Line to Akihabara (Electric Town
exit)
Wanna walk on the wild side of Tokyos fet-
ish for kawaii (cuteness)? Try being served
coffee by girls dressed as French maids!
Youll be welcomed as go-shujinsama
(master) the minute you barge into this
caf. The anime-esque staff, decked out in
Victorian pinafores, is drowning in kawaii;
titillating, perhaps, but its no sex joint.
Maid cafs are where Akihabaras otaku get
their kicks. Dishes such as curried rice are
even topped with smiley faces. Seconds,
anyone?
UENO
Holding on to its Shitamachi (Low Town)
style and atmosphere, Uenos culinary land-
scape pales in comparison to the bigger play-
ers inside the Yamanote (High Town). Of
course, after a long day of meandering the
halls of Ueno-kens many museums, you
may want to stick around for dinner. While
the local restaurants arent doing anything
cutting-edge, they are satisfyingly down-to-
earth and modestly priced.
SASA-NO-YUKI Map p72 Traditional
%3873-1145; 2-15-10 Negishi, Tait-ku; set
courses 2000-4000; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; bJR
Yamanote Line to Uguisudani (north exit)
Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the thriv-
EATING UENO
ing Edo period, and continues to serve tofu
in elegant arrangements and traditional
surroundings. Set meals allow you to
sample a broad range of tofu delicacies,
the majority of which are as inventive as
Soba
they are delicious. Strict vegetarians should
note that many dishes include chicken and
fish stock, if not the meat itself. If you dont
read Japanese, you can select from the set
courses based on price.
HANTEI Map p72 Traditional
%3828-1440; 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunky-ku; set
courses 2000-3000; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-10pm
Tue-Sun; bChiyoda Line to Sendagi (south exit)
Skewers of kushiage (fried meat, fish and
vegetables) arrive at your table six at a
161
lonelyplanet.com
time, counterbalanced with small, refresh-
ing side dishes. Though courses are prede-
termined, and well worth the wait, youll
have to decide when youve had enough
(or theyll keep coming) and whether to
drink sake or beer. The backdrop is a lovely
wood-and-bamboo Meiji-era house, which
emphasises the Shitamachi charm of the
restaurant.
IZU-EI Map p72 Unagi
ASAKUSA IMAHAN
%3831-0954; 2-12-22 Ueno, Tait-ku; set courses
1500-3000; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm;bJR
Yamanote Line to Ueno (Hirok-ji exit)
Izu-ei specialises in unagi (eel), which you
can take in two ways: in a bent (lunch
box) that includes tempura and pickled
vegetables, or charcoal-grilled, sauced and
laid on a bed of steamed rice, as unagi
purists might insist. Try to get seated near
an upstairs window for the best views of
the large lily pads of nearby Shinobazu-ike.
Although there is no English menu, there
is a picture menu of sliced up eels to help
you choose.
FUTABA Map p72 Tonkatsu
%3835-2672; 2-8-11 Ueno, Tait-ku; plates
around 2000; h11am-9pm; bJR Yamanote
Line to Ueno (Hirok-ji exit)
Like so many homestyle eateries, this place
doesnt look like much, in its nondescript
corner building, but who needs charm
when you make the best tonkatsu on the
block? Its a bit like a diner with matter-
of-fact service, but it knows its stuff and
EATING ASAKUSA
needs no gimmicks beyond the edges of
the plate.
CHALET SWISS MINI Map p72 Swiss
%3822-6034; 3-3-12 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku;
plates 1000-1500; h10am-6.30pm Tue & Wed,
10am-9pm Thu-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bNishi-
nippori (south exit); E
Somehow this odd little school and caf
works. Nestled among the temples and
shrines on a hill in Shitamachi, which was
spared of the bombing during the war, it
looks just like a Swiss chalet on a Holly-
wood movie set. It serves, not surprisingly,
very good fondue, pastries and sandwiches,
often to children who are just being let out
of class upstairs.
162
ASAKUSA
Despite the fact that Sens-ji (Asakusa
Kannon-d) is Tokyos most-frequented
tourist attraction, the neighbourhood itself
retains its own working-class, laugh-out-loud
character. Delightfully, almost none of the
restaurants cater to tourists, and so, here you
are, just another person in the neighbourhood
to be fed and then sent gently on your way.
Map p86 Shabu-Shabu
%3841-1114; 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku;
set courses 5000-7000; h11.30am-9.30pm;
bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); E
Its fitting that the original branch of
Imahan, the citys most famous chain of
shabu-shabu restaurants, is located at the
heart of Shitamachi. While sitting at low
tables on the tatami mats, you can get
happy on sake while letting your meat
and seasonal vegetables simmer away.
Although its certainly an expensive affair,
a meal at Imahan is the most dignified
way to enjoy this much-revered Japanese
culinary treat.
KOMAGATA DOJ Map p86 Traditional
%3842-4001; 1-7-12 Komagata, Tait-ku; set
courses 5000-7000; h11am-9pm; bGinza or
Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exits A2 & 4)
The sixth-generation chef running this
marvellous restaurant is continuing the
tradition of transforming the humble river
fish called the doj (something like an eel)
into various incarnations: grilled to miso-
simmered to stewed. The open seating
around wide, wooden planks heightens the
traditional flavour.
SOMETARO
Map p86 Okonomiyaki
%3844-9502; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku;
mains 750-1500; hnoon-10pm; bGinza Line to
Tawaramachi (exit 3); E
Sometaro is a fun and funky place to try
okonomiyaki, which are Japanese-style pan-
cakes filled with meat, seafood and vegeta-
bles that you cook yourself. Its a friendly
spot where the English menu even includes
a how-to guide for even the most culinary
challenged of restaurant goers.
DAIKOKUYA Map p86
Tempura
%3844-1111; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Tait-ku; plates
from 750; h11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-
9pm Sat; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa
(exit 6); E
The long line around the building should
tell you something about this much-loved
tempura place before you catch the unmis-
takable fragrance of it. Sneak off to the other
branch around the corner if the line seems
to put too much distance between you and
your ebi tendon (shrimp tempura over rice).
the food at Daidaiya is always creative and
NAMIKI YABU SOBA
Map p86 Soba
%3841-1340; 2-11-9 Kaminarimon, Tait-ku; noo-
dles from 500; h11am-10pm Fri-Wed; bGinza
or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A4); E
Another member of the Yabu Soba family
(see p161 for information on their sister store
in Kanda) that has withstood the encroach-
ment of high-rises, this little brown house
continues to thrive as it has for almost 100
years. It specialises in tempura soba, which
is still served at communal tables allowing
for a boisterous dining experience.
tions are advised. The menu is in French
but not English, which may or may not
AKASAKA
This is where both fiscal and governmen-
tal business gets done. Good portions of it
empty at night as limousines take officials
and luminaries elsewhere for secret suppers
behind thick doors. But since low-key, non-
power lunches need to happen and movers
and shakers often work late, Akasaka has a few
real finds in comfortable quarters.
RAKUTEI
Map p92 Tempura
Delhi serves a fiery Kashmir curry. Patrons
%3585-3743; 6-8-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; set
courses 3500-6000; h6-10pm; bChiyoda Line
to Akasaka (exit 5)
If the Japanese have elevated the deep-
fried to an art form, then the chefs at
Rakutei create masterpieces nightly. The
freshest seafood and the lightest tempura
batter are prepared to order, resulting in
tender prawn and sweet potato that actu-
ally does melt in your mouth. Although
there isnt an English menu, you can eas-
ily choose a set meal depending on how
much yen youre willing to part with.
DAIDAIYA Map p92
lonelyplanet.com
Asian Fusion
%3588-5087; 9th fl, Belle Vie, 3-1-6 Akasaka,
Minato-ku; plates around 2000; h11.30am-2pm
& 5pm-midnight; bGinza & Marunouchi Lines to
Akasaka-mitsuke (exit 2); E
Although Asian fusion is all the rage out-
side Japan, its still catching on in Tokyo.
Of course, its hard not to fall in love with
this culinary mish-mash, especially once
youve realised the benefits of eating rich
Thai curries alongside innovative sushi rolls
and savoury Chinese dumplings. Although
daring, it pales in comparison to the restau-
rants eye-arresting ultramodern interior.
ASTERIX Map p92 French
%5561-0980; B1 fl, 6-3-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku;
set courses 2000-3000; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm
Mon-Sat; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 7)
Lunch at Asterix is a smashing deal, but
dinner has its own merits not as rushed,
so you can linger over your wine while you
mull the meal that is pleasantly dulling
your senses just so. Portions here are large,
but the dining room is petite, so reserva-
make things easier on you.
DELHI Map p92 Indian
%3560-5188; 2-14-34 Akasaka, Minato-ku; curries
around 1000; h11.30am-9.30pm; bChiyoda
Line to Akasaka (exit 2)
Tropical cultures tout the numerous bene-
EATING AKASAKA
fits of eating spicy foods; among them, the
flushing of toxins when one begins perspir-
ing with the endorphin rush (or pain, as
the case may be). For those who like it hot,
with milder tastes will find equally delicious
options on the menu.
LOTUS PALACE Map p92 Vietnamese
%5114-0747; 2-14-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; noodles
from 750; h11am-11pm; bGinza & Maru-
nouchi Lines to Akasaka-mitsuke; E
Lunch and dinner are an absolute steal at
this foreigner-friendly Vietnamese noodle
shop, which serves up set-course meals
that are centred on huge bowls of pho
(rice-noodle soup) and rounded out by
163
lonelyplanet.com

Quite possibly one of the hottest restau- Loved by local expats, Moti maintains a

lonelyplanet.com
BEAM ME TO THE KONBINI rants in the city at the time of writing, this loyal base of foodies who come for the set
inevitable crowd pleaser offers open-air lunches and well-seasoned curries. Settle
Konbini (; convenience stores) are a way of life for many Tokyoites, and even if you had never set foot dining overlooking the gardens of Tokyo into one of the comfortable booths and
in one at home you may find yourself visiting them daily here. Indeed, there seems to be a Sunkus, AM-PM, Lawson, Midtown. As these tables are some of the watch as first one embassy staffer and then
7-Eleven or Family Mart on just about every corner. Heres the difference: Japanese convenience-store food tends to be most in-demand seats in the capital, you another comes and goes. Moti can fill to
both fresh and of decent quality, and whether youre going home after a late night or heading out on a hike, its hard would be wise to book in advance (in fact the rafters around noon.
to do better. Some of our favourite konbini foods: its necessary) to ensure that you dont let
Inari-sushi () Sushi rice in a tofu pouch. If you find it a little sweet, cut it with soy sauce. down your better half. Although true Italian YAKINIKU TORAJI INTERNATIONAL
Niku-man () Steamed buns filled with pork, pizza flavourings, curry sauce and more. connoisseurs may find fault in the slight Map pp967 Yakiniku
Oden () Fish cakes, hard-boiled egg, vegetables and more, stewing in a dashi (fish-stock) broth. Enjoy with Japan-isation of the menu, the food here is
hot mustard. Its not winter without it. nevertheless spectacular, and the alfresco %5786-2888; Roppongi Hills, Roppongi 6-chme;
dining is arguably the citys best. plates 750-1000; h11am-11pm; bHibiya or
Onigiri () King of them all. A triangle of rice with a dollop of some treasure inside (salmon, tuna salad,
marinated kelp etc), wrapped in a plastic sheath together with a sheet of nori (seaweed). Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 1C); E
HAWKER STYLE ASIAN CANTEEN Although it originates from the humble
Map pp967 Singaporean Korean dish known as bulgogi, yakiniku
shrimp spring rolls and mung-bean pud- FUKUZUSHI Map pp967 Sushi & Sashimi (grilled meat) at this Roppongi Hills estab-
ding. If you need to put an extra spring in %5474-3200; 6-11-16 Roppongi, Minato-ku; lishment is anything but ordinary. Choose
your step, the syrupy Vietnamese coffee %3402-4116; 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; sushi plates around 1000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; from a variety of immaculate cuts of meat,
with condensed milk will get you where spreads from 5000; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C and then slow roast them over charcoals.
you want to be. Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi & 3); E Next, dip your perfectly cooked slices of
(exit 3) Owned by a Japanese man who fell in love meat in a variety of sauces before popping
Arguably some of Tokyos best sushi is with chicken rice, the national dish of them into your mouth delicious!
ROPPONGI
At any given hour, the population of Roppongi
served at Fukuzushis lovely wooden coun-
ter, where the chefs can satisfy your palate
Singapore, Hawker Style Asian Canteen is
a small slice of Southeast Asia in the heart
probably maintains the highest saturation of
ethnic diversity (and perhaps also the highest
with conventional favourites, but could just
as easily piece together something more
of Roppongi. If youve never eaten chicken
rice before, the dish is basically chicken and
EBISU & DAIKANYAMA
Ebisu and Daikanyama, though not on most
saturation, drinkwise) in Tokyo. Long the dis- innovative if you wish. Reservations arent rice (no surprise there), though the accom- short-term visitors radar, are home to a
trict favoured by randy foreigners on R&R and taken at this popular spot, so plan on a few panying sauces and broth (for cleansing grown-up creative community of 30- and 40-
Tokyo party people, its also adjacent to nearby minutes wait, though its a small incon- the palette) can make this a truly sublime something designers, artists and architects. As
embassies and upmarket hotels. So while some venience to dine on what will probably be culinary experience. such, the neighbourhoods are full of independ-
Roppongi restaurants serve indifferent suste- the best sushi dinner of your life. There are ent boutiques and European-style cafs, and
nance to those merely fuelling up for a long no English menus, though you can always MOTI Map pp967 Indian the areas sophisticated aesthetics and flavours
night, some of Tokyos more refined culinary point at whatever sliver of fish takes your reflect a hip and worldly population.
experiences exist amid the madness. fancy if money is no object, then this is %3479-1939; 6-2-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; plates
the place to go big. around 1000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; MUSHROOM Map p102 French
CHINA ROOM bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C & 3)
Map pp967 Chinese INAKAYA Map pp967 Traditional %5489-1346; 2nd fl, 1-16-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-
EATING ROPPONGI

EATING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA

%4333-8785; 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; set
courses from 6000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-
10pm; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi
(exit 1c & 3); E
Located inside the world-famous Grand
Hyatt Tokyo at Roppongi Hills, the China
Room offers the most lavish and refined
Chinese cuisine in the capital. From per-
fectly roasted Peking duck and fragrant
shark-fin soup to rare oolong teas and
handcrafted dumplings, the China Room
is a feast for the senses that never fails to
disappoint. In addition to widely known
culinary classics, the China Room also offers
rare Japanese seafood delicacies such as
Niigata snow crab and Hokkaid uni (sea
urchin roe).
164
%3408-5040; 5-3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; dishes
around 2000; h5pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei
edo Lines to Roppongi (exit 3)
Once youre bombarded with greetings at
the door, the action doesnt stop at this
old-guard robatayaki (a place that grills
food that goes beautifully with booze). Its
a party, its joyous, its boisterous and that
goes for the profusion of toothsome dishes
as well as the attitude one must have when
the bill arrives. Live large!
VINOTECA Map pp967
%5647-8301; Tokyo Midtown, Minato-ku;
dishes around 2000; h11am-3pm & 5pm-late;
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 8); E
ku; set courses from 3000; h11.30am-3pm &
THE GENTLE ART OF JAPANESE
COOKING
Think youve got what it takes to fry up some mean
tempura? The following two schools will help get
you started:
Konishi Japanese Cooking Class (Map p102;
%3714-8859; www.seiko-osp.com/private/sekigu/
kjcc/index.htm; 1405 Nissei Meguro-Mansion; 3-1-7
Meguro, Meguro-ku; bNamboku or Mita Line to
Meguro, west exit, or JR Yamanote Line to Meguro,
main exit) Friendly English instruction with small
Italian class sizes.
A Taste of Culture (%5716-5751; http://tasteof
culture.com) Offers Japanese cooking courses and
market tours in various locations around the city.
6-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit)
Chef Yamaokas obsession with the taming of
the shroom has sprouted this very cosy little
French bistro, whose dcor is dominated by
a mushroom motif, of course. Three-course
set lunches are amazing value and will
transport you elsewhere without the mind-
altering side effects of course. Japanese skills
will help in making a reservation, and French
skills will help in interpreting the menu.
RICOS KITCHEN
Map p102 International
%5791-4649; 2nd fl, 4-23-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku;
plates around 2000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm;
bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)
165
lonelyplanet.com

From light and fruity California wines to juicy by, theres something endearing about MONSOON Map p102 COUCAGNO Map p106

lonelyplanet.com
Asian Fusion French
New Zealand rack of lamb, this international Japanese waiting staff in cowboy boots
bistro brings together the best flavours from and hats. %5789-3811; www.global-dining.com; 4-4-6 %3476-3000; 40th fl, Cerulean Tower, 26-1
around the globe to create some truly inno- Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates 1000-1500; h11.30am- Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku; set courses from
vative meals. With vaulted wooden ceilings TOKI-NO-MA Map p102 Izakaya 3.30am Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu 6000; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; bJR
and hand-brushed walls, the setting at Ricos (east exit); E Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit); E
Kitchen is personal and relaxed, which makes %5722-8600; 2nd fl, 2-3-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; Monsoon serves up a variety of pan-Asian Few restaurants in Tokyo can claim more
this the perfect spot for slowing down and plates around 1500; h4.30pm-late; bJR cuisine from peanut satays to steamed stunning views than the highly praised
enjoying the art of fine cuisine. Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit) shrimp dumplings in an evocative tropi- Coucagno, which occupies the 40th floor of
True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya is cal caf setting. Alfresco seating and fruity the Cerulean Tower, one of the most dra-
ZEST CANTINA EBISU a class act. For your drinking pleasure, cocktails help stave off the oppression matic buildings in both Shibuya and Tokyo.
Map p102 Mexican the attentive staff can recommend any of Tokyos notoriously muggy summers, From such lofty heights, the Shibuya street
number of limited-edition sakes, which while tropical lagers and spicy curries will scene looks as if its populated by tiny ants,
%5475-6291; 1-22-19 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates change constantly depending on the help you escape the depression of Tokyos though attention quickly shifts to the food
1500-2000; h11.30am-3.30am Mon-Sat; bJR season. For your eating pleasure, the at- notoriously grey winters. once the chef gets going. As youd expect,
Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit); E tentive staff can recommend any number everything from the delicate sauces driz-
Youd be forgiven for thinking you were of unique dishes including satusma-ryouri CAFF MICHELANGELO zled across your roast duck to the perfect
eating Tex-Mex somewhere in America (Kysh-style cuisine), wild game birds Map p102 Caf crust atop your crme brle is indeed a
after walking into this cavernous Ebisu and a full assortment of seafood delica- class act.
institution. Although the jumbo margaritas, cies. Although there is no English menu, %3770-9517; 29-3 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku;
enormous bowls of nachos and sizzling hot set courses are available if you cant speak plates 500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote KUJIRAYA Map p106 Traditional
plates of fajitas are reason enough to stop Japanese. Line to Ebisu (west exit); E
Stylish Daikanyama is exactly the locale this %3461-9145; 2-29-22 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; set
Parisian-style caf is meant to occupy. The courses from 5000; h11am-10pm; bJR Yaman-
smart set comes here to be seen, but you ote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)
SELF-CATERING could just as easily blend into the back- Well leave it to you and your dinner
Even if youre here with money to burn, a visit to an everyday market or to the food halls in the more elegant department ground. Pavement seating makes it a fine companions to debate the ethics of this
store basements (see p171) is well worth the time. Traditional family-owned shops are dotted around the city, and most summertime lunch stop, with lovely reason- surprisingly popular restaurant, which
sell seasonal produce (such as summer melons, autumn persimmons and winter strawberries) and daily basics such as ably priced lunch sets to enjoy with wine. serves nothing but whale meat. Conserva-
fish, seaweed and rice. International supermarkets cater to Western palates. Although they charge import prices, fussy tion, environmentalism and morality aside,
resident expats would starve without them. CAF ARTIFAGOSE Map p102 Caf there are few places in the world where
Kinokuniya International Supermarket (Map p110; %3409-1236; 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; you can sample whale sashimi, fried blub-
h9.30am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand, exit B2) Kinokuniya carries expat %5489-1133; 20-23 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku; ber and fin steaks, though youre going to
lifesavers such as Marmite and peanut butter, Belgian chocolate and herbal tea. Foreign imports such as plates 500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote have to leave your politics at the door. Al-
cheese, salami and Finnish bread generally fetch high prices, much like the flawless fruit in the produce sec- Line to Ebisu (west exit); E though there is no English menu, you can
tion. An interim store at 3.11.13 Minami-Aoyama (p110) is located just further south along Aoyama-dri. Follow your nose towards the yeasty scent order set menus based on price whale
Meidi-ya (Map pp967; %3401-8511; 7-15-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h10am-9pm; bHibiya Line to of baking bread, and youll wind up at Caf meat isnt cheap, which is probably to do
Roppongi, exit 2) Established in the 19th century, not too long after strangers in black ships started arriving on Artifagose where strong coffee and fine with the fact that theyre endangered.
Japans shores, Meidi-ya specialises in higher-end groceries for foreign predilections. Its a midsized store with a
EATING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA

EATING SHIBUYA
cheese and bread are your reward. If the
corresponding selection of goods, so you should find ample fixings for a picnic. There are other locations through- neighbourhood shops tempt you more MAYU (COCOON) Map p106 Wine Bar
out the city. than a leisurely lunch does, pick up a pastry
National Azabu (Map pp967; %3442-3181; 4-5-2 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; h9.30am-7pm; bHibiya for later. %5453-0301; 40-3 Kamiyamach, Shibuya-ku;
Line to Hiro-o, exit 2) Based in Azabu, where a high concentration of expats also happen to base themselves, plates around 2000; h6pm-late; bJR Yaman-
National Azabu carries an impressive array of expat staples such as imported cheeses, wines, Vegemite and ote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit); E
natural foods as well as hard-to-find produce. Also notable is the pharmacy with English-speaking staff and the
small bookshop upstairs. SHIBUYA
After seeing the teenagers cruising Shibuya
Arguably the strangest restaurant youve
ever seen, the ultrachic interior of this
Natural House (Map p110; %3498-2277; 3-6-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h10am-10pm; bChiyoda, trendy spot is highlighted by several fi-
Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand, exit B4) Natural House serves the ecoconscious trendsters around crossing and clusters of young fashionistas
awaiting their cohorts at Hachik Plaza, your breglass cocoons, each of which can seat
Aoyama, meeting a growing demand for whole foods and organic produce. Along with bricks of rye loaves up to four people. Although the cuisine is
and pricey but nutritious bent (boxed lunch), Natural House also peddles natural beauty products and health attention span might only allow you a quick
bite at a greasy spoon near the station before international with a strong European influ-
supplements. ence, the focus here is on the wine, with
Yamaya (Map p92; %3583-5657; 2-14-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h10am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka, darting back into the melee. But for those
nights when you need a bigger gastronomic dishes chosen by the chef to highlight the
exit 2) Yamayas shelves are stuffed primarily with European wines, though theres also a representative selection selected bottles of the day. It can certainly
of American and Australian grape as well. Most branches are discount retailers and offer some imported packaged thrill, stray outwards onto the streets spok-
ing away from Shibuya Station and discover get pricey to sample a few different bottles
foods in addition to wines and liquors. and dishes, but sipping wine and dining
the neighbourhoods more sophisticated
delights. on homemade pasta in the comfort of your

166 167
lonelyplanet.com
own cocoon is about as surreal a dining
experience as you can imagine.
SONOMA Map p106 Californian
health food shop in the front part of the
%3462-7766; 2-25-17 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku;
plates 1500-2000; h6-11.30pm Sun-Thu, 6pm-
4am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya
(Hachik exit); E
Favourites such as polenta fries and pork
chops with sage, brown sugar and apples
form the mainstay of this unpretentiously
inspired and priced Californian fusion
menu. The interior resembles a Sonoma
wine country restaurant and the menu is
complemented by a strong selection of
Californian wines.
EL CASTELLANO Map p106 Spanish
beauty in the name of economy.
%3407-7197; 2nd fl, 2-9-12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku;
plates 500-2000; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; bJR
Yamanote Line to Shibuya (east exit); E
El Castellanos success could be attributed
to the warmth of its owner, who casts a
friendly eye over the evenings progress
and affectionately greets his regulars with
sunny Spanish hospitality. But that would
discount the definite draw of his homestyle
cooking, including a mean paella and the
sangria that goes so well with it.
OKINAWA Map p106 Okinawan Izakaya
%3464-2576; 1st basement fl, Shibuya Deli Tower,
2-23-13 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; plates around
1000; h5.30-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to
Shibuya (Hachik exit); E
EATING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
If youve never been to the far-flung tropi-
cal islands of Okinawa, then this speciality
izakaya will have you racing to the travel
agent. Start things off right with a cold
Orion Beer or a potent glass of awamori
(Okinawan-style shch), and then jump
right into Okinawan staples such as mimiga
(pig ears), suki-soba (Okinawan-style soba)
and rafute (stewed pork with brown sugar).
SHIZENKAN II Map p106 Vegetarian
you tuck into chiles rellenos (stuffed chil-
%3486-0281; 3-9-2 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates
500-1500; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bJR Yaman-
ote Line to Shibuya (east exit); E
Strict vegans and vegetarians looking to
sample Japanese favourites may find it
tough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills
168
the gap with gluten cutlets and substan-
tial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles of
vegies. The food is flavourful and packs
a nutritional wallop, and theres even a
restaurant in case youre looking to stock
the fridge at home.
HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
Like the boutiques and galleries that flank
Omote-sand, and the winding lanes that di-
verge from it, the cafs and eateries in this area
experiment relentlessly and insist on finding
new directions. New takes on old standards
abound and Western fuses with Japanese as
chefs strive to become inventors in order to
make a name. Surprisingly, all this innovation
can be had without sacrificing comfort and
Map p110
NOBU Map p110 Modern Japanese
%5467-0022; 6-10-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-
ku; set courses from 6000; h11.30am-3.30pm
& 5.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun;
bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
sand (exit B1); E
Stemming from a childhood wish to be-
come a sushi chef, Nobu Matsuhisa now
has namesake restaurants in cities on four
continents. His 1993 foray into the New
York scene was financed by Robert De Niro,
with subsequent Nobu restaurants estab-
lished in Milan, Paris, London, Melbourne
and Tokyo. His stunning, cutting-edge
Japanese food doesnt come cheap, but
the experience of eating here is simply
phenomenal.
FONDA DE LA MADRUGADA
Map p110 Mexican
nise the fiery tajines and savoury couscous
%5410-6288; 2nd basement fl, 2-33-12 Jingmae,
Shibuya-ku; plates around 2000; h5.30pm-2am
Sun-Thu, 5.30pm-5am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote
Line to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); E
Mariachis stroll through the enclosed
courtyard in a basement hacienda! as
lies) or appraise the mole (savoury, spicy
chocolate sauce) drizzled over chicken or
enchiladas. This is one of the few authen-
tic Mexican restaurants in Tokyo free of
grim guacamole and unfortunate Tex-Mex
flourishes.
TETSUGEN NIKUSHO Map p110
Izakaya
%5774-4533; 1-5-6 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates
1500-2000; h6pm-1am; bChiyoda, Ginza or
Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A2)
Theres no shortage of bizarre (at least to a
Western palate) delicacies on offer at Tet-
sugen Nikusho, which offers refined rustic
yet sophisticated ambience in the heart of
Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk)
youre feeling, you can sample a whole range
of traditional Japanese meats including
rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as
a whole bunch of sea critter parts that dont
really translate into English. Sadly, there isnt
an English menu on offer, though sometimes
its better not to know what youre eating.
NATURAL HARMONY ANGOLO
Vegetarian for picking up bent of tonkatsu accompa-
nied by packets of Maisens savoury dipping
%3405-8393; 3-38-12 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
plates 1500-2000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm
Tue-Sun; bGinza Line to Gaienmae (exit 2)
Downshift to the pace of Natural Harmony
Angolo, where the wholesome food is pure
and so is the smoke-free air. The menu is
largely vegetarian, augmented with some
fish dishes; set meals featuring the deli-
cately prepared vegetables du jour come
with a choice of white or brown rice. Try
some cold, cloudy sake with your meal and
meditatively decompress.
HANNIBAL DEUX Map p110 North African
ing healthily and making the environment
%3479-3710; 3-53-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku;
plates 1000-3000; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30pm-
midnight; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku
(Takeshita exit); E
Even if youve never been to Tunisia (or had
Tunisian food for that matter), youll recog-
force out of office doors towards the train
dishes on offer at this North African restau-
rant. The chef and much of the staff do in
fact come from Tunisia, which is about all
the proof you need that the food here is
about as authentic as youll find in Japan.
MOMINOKI HOUSE
Map p110 Japanese Health Food
%3405-9144; 2-18-5 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; plates
1000-2000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line
to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); E
Boho Tokyoites and personages such as
Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder have
lonelyplanet.com
descended into Mominoki Houses multi-
level, rabbit warren of a dining room since
1976. Chef Yamadas menu consists mostly
of Japanese wholefoods, much of it veg-
etarian but also including organically raised
Australian perch and Hokkaid venison.
Food here is lovingly prepared, and enrich-
ing to both body and soul.
MAISEN Map p110 Tonkatsu
%3470-0071; 4-8-5 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; plates
750-1000; h11am-10pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or
Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A2)
Set in a converted public bathhouse, Maisen
is rightfully famous for its tonkatsu choose
from shrimp, pork or premium kurobuta
(black pig). Theres also a takeaway window
sauce.
NABI Map p110 Yakiniku
%5771-0071; 2-31-20 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
plates 500-1000; h11am-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm;
bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
sand (exit A2)
Paying tribute to its progressive surround-
ings, Nabi offers an organic spin on the
traditional Korean dish of yakiniku. While
youre grilling your meat and veg at your
private tabletop barbecue, stop for a mo-
ment to appreciate the fact that youre eat-
a cleaner place at the same time.
EATING SHINJUKU
SHINJUKU
At the end of the work day, a few million
sturdy pairs of shoes carry Shinjukus work-
stations. To avoid the worst of rush hour,
most stop along the way for yakitori or rmen
or a more convivial sit-down affair with col-
leagues. Once inside most eateries on the east
side of the station, the pace slows and the light
show outside disappears. On the west side,
restaurants within the towers of the luxury
hotels are designed for the view-hungry.
NEW YORK GRILL Map p116 Continental
%5323-3458; 52nd fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2
Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; set courses from
169
lonelyplanet.com
6000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm;
bToei edo Line to Tochmae (exit A4); E
You may not be staying at the Park Hyatt,
but dont let that stop you from ascend-
ing to the 52nd floor to swoon over the
stunning views of the city below. Splurge
on a romantic, sumptuous supper backlit
by sparkling night-time lights and live
jazz. And yes, in case everything looks a
bit familiar, the adjacent New York Bar (p181)
was in fact where Bill Murray drank glass
upon glass of Suntory whiskey in Sofia
Coppolas Lost in Translation. Reservations
are advised, especially on weekends and
for brunch.
KUSHIYA MONOGATARI
Map p116 Traditional
have never known. While taking tea and
%5728-2494; 1st basement fl, Shibuya Cine
Tower, 2-6-17 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; set course
2500; h4-10.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to
Shibuya (Hachik exit)
The Tokyo branch of this popular Osaka
chain specialises in kushiage, which are
deep-fried skewers of grilled meats, fish
and vegetables. For the bargain price of
only 2500, you have up to two hours to
fry up at your tabletop as many skewers
as youd like, though this is one of the few
Japanese foods where its probably best to
go easy and consider your waistline.
DAIDAYA Map p116 Asian Fusion
%5362-7173; 3rd fl, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg, 3-37-
12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; plates around 2000;
h5pm-midnight; bJR Yamanote Line to Shin-
EATING SHINJUKU
juku (east exit); E
Unabashedly cool with modern Balinese-
style design accents from floor to ceiling,
this ultrasophisticated Asian fusion restau-
rant offers a nouvelle take on this already
inventive cuisine. Dishes such as Kyshu-
style sausages with homemade wasabi-
mayonnaise are individually crafted works
of art, and are presented in slow but steady
stages to allow for the maximum amount
of appreciation.
IMAHAN Map p116 Traditional
%5361-1871; 14th fl, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-
ku; plates around 1500; h11am-11pm; bJR
Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (new south exit); E
Upstairs from the huge Takashimaya Times
170
Square branch of Tky Hands depart-
ment store, Imahan is all about beef. Apart
from the house specialities of sukiyaki and
shabu-shabu, Imahan serves such delicacies
as fugu, marbled beef sashimi and scaled-
down kaiseki dinners. Come with comrades,
as this cookery is meant to be shared for
maximum merriment.
DADA CAF Map p116 Caf
%3350-2245; 5-23-10 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku;
plates around 1000; h11.30am-11pm; bJR
Yamanote to Yoyogi (east exit)
This retro caf, which is housed in a
70-year-old tenement building straight
out of the Shwa era, is a charming spot
to reminisce about a Tokyo most of us
noshing on immaculate spreads of hon-
est Japanese cooking, take a moment
to reflect on the Zenlike beauty of your
surroundings.
PARK HYATT DELICATESSEN
Map p116 Deli
%5323-3635; 1st fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2
Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; sandwiches around
1000; h8am-8pm; bToei edo Line to
Tochmae (exit A4); E
Stop by the Park Hyatt Hotel for what is
undoubtedly Tokyos top spot for New
York style sandwiches, which will make
even the most hardened New Yorker sob
for home. Everything from the sesame-
seedcoated crusty loaves of bread to the
protein-packed slabs of cured Parma ham
is either homemade on-site or imported
direct from the source, which is why every-
thing here just tastes so damn good.
CHRISTON CAF Map p116 Izakaya
OMOIDE-YOKOCH Map p116
%5287-2426; 8th fl, 5-17-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-
ku; plates 500-1000; h5-11pm Mon, 5pm-5am
Tue-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchme
(exit B5)
Irreverent in the most orthodox sense of
the word, this cathedral-like izakaya fetish-
ises the Catholic aesthetic and turns this
dining experience into something your
inner goth will love. Reservations are defi-
nitely required here to feast on small plates
to share with your brethren under gigantic
altars and doleful images of the piet.
lonelyplanet.com
DEPACHIKA
Hungry for the next culinary novelty, OLs (office ladies) and o-bsan (grandmotherly types) prowl the mazes of
depachika, the cavernous food halls in department store basements. Depachika often take up several floors, housing a
staggering array of foodstuffs of the highest order, freshly prepared and often gorgeously packaged for presentation as
gifts. Depending on the most au courant food trends, you could find black truffle oil or dessert vinegar just round the
corner from the more traditional 573 grades of the seasons green tea and wagashi (delicate candies). Though samples
are harder to come by these days, the sharp-eyed will find nibbles of sublime chocolate, sesame-seed sembei (crunchy
rice crackers) and dried squid.
Large department stores are often attached to major train stations ber-convenient for picking up museum-quality
bent (boxed lunch) for dinner, picnic items for a sunny afternoon or a fancy gift of flower-shaped okashi (sweets).
If you can read Japanese, do as obsessive OLs do and monitor the days specials on www.depachika.com. If not,
descend into one of the following basements, among Tokyos best depachika.
Isetan (Map p116; %3352-1111; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku
Line to Shinjuku-sanchme, exits B3, B4 & B5) The grandmother of them all.
Matsuya (Map p62; %3567-1211; 3-6-1 Ginza, Ch-ku; h10.30am-7.30pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi
Line to Ginza, exits A12 & A13) An upmarket Ginza stalwart. Also has branches in Asakusa and Ahikabara (see p137).
Mitsukoshi (Map p62; %3241-3311; 4-6-16 Ginza, Ch-ku; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;
bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza, exit A7) Classic style and status at this Ginza institution. Further
outlets can be found in Ikebukuro, Marunouchi and Ebisu (see p136).
Seibu (Map p122; %3981-0111; 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun;
bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro, east exit) Spanning several city blocks, with a particularly comprehensive spice market.
Takashimaya Times Square (Map p116; %5361-1111; 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8pm, closed
some Wed; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, new south exit) Like the 15-storey department store above it, this
depachika is enormous.
KINKANTEI Map p116
Soba
IKEBUKURO
After an afternoon spent wandering around
%3356-6556; 2-17-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;
noodles from 500; h7pm-late; bJR Yamanote Ikebukuro, youll have noticed that many of
Line to Shinjuku (east exit) the areas eateries are jammed with young
Although the heart of Tokyos gay district is salarymen with a bit of time on their hands.
the last place youd expect to find a 200- Accordingly, many places are very cheap and
year-old soba shop, Kinkantei is the real rather uninspired. However, nearby Taka-
thing. Although purists swear that soba this danobaba, which is located at the crossroads
traditional should just be eaten as is, more of several universities, has its artsy cafs and
international restaurants catering to students
EATING IKEBUKURO
avant-garde diners can dress their dishes
up with a whole slew of treats including with big appetites and smaller budgets.
the restaurants signature deep-fried natt
(fermented beans) wrapped in seaweed. SHAMAIM off Map p122 Israeli
Yakitori %3948-5333; 2nd fl, Art Bldg, 4-11 Sakae-cho,
Nerima-ku; buffet 2000; h5pm-midnight, Tue-
Nishi-Shinjuku 1-chme, Shinjuku-ku; skewers from Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun; bSeibu-Ikebukuro
100; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (west exit) Line to Ekoda (south exit); E
Literally translated as Memory Lane (and A quick train ride from Ikebukuro will bring
less politely known as Piss Alley) Omoide- you to this Israeli-owned restaurant, which
yokoch will be but a memory when its serves up an incredible all-you-can-eat
razed to make way for new development feast thatll having you dreaming about a
by mid-2009. A remnant of postwar Tokyo, trip to the Middle East. Gorge yourself on
the alley is lined with wooden shacks sell- pita, hummus, meat skewers, cucumber
ing yakitori and cold beers to long-time salads and rice pilaf, but be sure to save
regulars stop by around 7pm to indulge some room for a hot cup of mint tea, some
in a few skewers and preemptive nostalgia. syrupy baklava and the obligatory apple
171
lonelyplanet.com
sheesha. The restaurant is located across
the street from the south exit of Ekoda
station, which is three stops away from
Ikebukuro on the Seibu-Ikebukuro line.
SASASH Map p122 Izakaya
%3971-9363; 2-2-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; plates
1000-1500; h5-10pm Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi
Line to Ikebukuro (exit C5)
Sasashs Japanese-style faade is easy to
pick out between the modern concrete strip
joints nearby. This relaxed izakaya is known
for its highbrow sake selection and its tradi-
tional hearth, as well as some more unusual
offerings including a rich and hearty kamon-
abe (duck stew). Japanese skills are helpful
here, but you can also point at what others
are enjoying to order for yourself.
TAVERNA Map p122 Italian
%3232-1997; 2-5-10 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;
plates around 1000; h5-10.30pm Mon-Sat; bJR
Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E
There are reasons why some people eat here
every night, and why the sommelier, who
started hanging around 23 years ago while
still a student at Waseda, finally landed a
job. Authenticitys a part of it, but the charm
of the owner probably clinches such unflag-
ging loyalty. Easily the warmest Italian joint
in the city, and you cant beat the price.
MARMARA Map p122 Turkish
%3227-5940; 4-9-9 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-
ku; plates around 1000; h11am-11pm; bJR
EATING IKEBUKURO
Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E
The tiny wooden shack that marks the
entrance and dispenses dirt-cheap takeaway
kebab is so small you might pass it by with-
out remark. Once through the door, how-
ever, youll see the stairs leading down to the
spacious seating area where theres some-
times live music, but always solicitous staff
and a dizzying choice of Turkish delights.
KAO TAI Map p122 Thai
more Japanese these days is a cup of coffee, a thick
%3204-5806; 2-14-6 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;
curries around 1000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm;
bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit)
From the bamboo-framed doorway to its
snug dining room, Kao Tai feels like a warm
slice of Southeast Asia. Most dishes are
172
small-plate affairs, allowing you to sample
and share while swigging a Singha. While
not the most complicated Thai food around,
the rooms feel more than makes up for it.
BENS CAFE Map p122 Caf
several small courses and at least one con-
%3202-2445; 1-29-21 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-
ku; plates 500-1000; h11.30am-11.30pm Sun-
Thu, 11.30am-12.30am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote
Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E
Local Waseda students and expats come to
Bens to quell cravings for bagels or Belgian
beer or just to chill. The patio out front
is a good place to sip wine and watch life
amble by on warm evenings. Bens also
hosts poetry readings and art exhibitions
by local artists, and it has wi-fi access.
GYROS HERO
Map p122 Greek
Map p122
%3205-8207; 2-14-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;
plates 500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote
Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E
A popular student haunt that offers great
value for your yen, Gyros Hero puts to-
gether some seriously monster pitas,
packed to the gills with meat and salad,
and served up with sauces and golden fries.
The Greek-inspired dcor of soft pastels and
pictures of tiny sun-drenched isles is a world
away from the concrete and neon outside.
AKIYOSHI Map p122 Yakitori
%3982-0601; 3-30-4 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-
ku; plates around 500; h5-11pm; bJR Yaman-
ote Line to Ikebukuro (west exit)
JAPANESE BREAKFAST
A traditional Japanese breakfast consists of rice, miso
soup and pickles, some kind of cooked egg, a piece of
grilled fish and a cup of green tea. Tokyoites are also
known to be fond of natt (fermented soya beans;
see the boxed text, p159) for breakfast, mixed into
the rice with a dab of hot mustard.
That said, the breakfast of choice for more and
slab of white toast, an egg and a small green salad.
You can enjoy this as a mningu setto ( Meridien, 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; sushi spread
; morning set) at small coffee houses
for between 450 and 600. Many hotels serve both
Western- and Japanese-style breakfasts.
If in the mood for yakitori, Akiyoshi is an
approachable, ebullient place to partake.
The open grill at centre stage ignites a fes-
tive, sociable space. The chefs work quickly
to help move traffic along, but that doesnt
mean you cant sit comfortably through
quality at such lofty heights is a romantic
versation. There is no English menu, though
ordering is simple with the picture menu.
SUMIDA RIVER
Primarily a suburban residential area, the
neighbourhoods east of Sumida-gawa are
home to few noteworthy restaurants that are
worth seeking out. However, if you have any
interest in trying chankonabe (),
the sum wrestlers staple, its worth heading
to Rygoku for lunch or dinner.
TOMOEGATA
Chankonabe The menu also includes set meals and udon
%3632-5600; 2-17-6 Rygoku, Sumida-ku; set
course from 1500; h11am-11pm; bJR Sbu
Line to Ryogoku (west exit)
Given the preponderance of sum stables
in Rygoku, its only natural that youd
find restaurants serving the calorie-rich
chankonabe. Recipes vary for this hearty
stew, but count on beef, chicken, pork, fish
and/or seasonal vegetables. Tomoegata has
been serving it for generations go with a
group, or eat it all by yourself if you want
to become big like a sum wrestler.
ODAIBA & AROUND
This artificially constructed pleasure island
serves as a quick and easy escape for stressed
out Tokyoites looking for a little R&R. Not
surprisingly, Odaiba is home to dozens of res-
taurants catering to every conceivable taste and
budget. Eating in Odaiba also means food with
a view, especially if you cosy up alongside a
picture window and gaze out across the bay.
SHIMA ENDOMAE-DOKORO
Map p131 Sushi & Sashimi
gets top marks for its sweeping views and
%5556-4808; 30th fl, Hotel Grand Pacific Le
from 6000; h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line
to Daiba (south exit); E
The 30th floor of the Hotel Grand Pacific Le
Meridien affords broad views of the cranes,
lifts and skyscrapers on the opposite shore.
lonelyplanet.com
How charming then at such a soaring height
that this little spot, with its tiny counter and
virtuosic sushi chefs, makes you feel like a
bird in a very warm nest. If youre travelling
with a loved one, dining on sushi of this
and altogether memorable experience,
especially if the weather is cooperating.
TSUKIJI TAMA SUSHI
Map p131 Sushi & Sashimi
%3599-6556; 5th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-
1 Daiba, Minato-ku; sushi spread from 2500;
h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line to Odaiba
Kaihin-ken (main exit); E
Settle yourself near the windows and sip
from a huge, earthy cup of green tea while
you wait for your sushi, which will come
immaculately presented and perfectly fresh.
if you prefer, though either way, this is a
pleasant corner from which to take in good
Japanese food and bay views.
HIBIKI Map p131 Japanese Pub
%3599-5500; 6th fl, Aquacity Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba,
Minato-ku; plates 1000-1500; h11am-11pm;
bYurikamome Line to Daiba (south exit); E
The inventive menu at this Japanese pub-
style restaurant emphasises top-quality
meats and hearty side dishes, all of which
perfectly accompany the extensive selec-
tion of booze on offer. However, dont let
all of this fine food and drink distract you
from the incredible views of the Rainbow
EATING SUMIDA RIVER
Bridge sweeping across Tokyo Bay.
GOMPACHI
Map p131 Izakaya
%3599-4807; 4th fl, Aquacity Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba,
Minato-ku; plates 1000-1500; h11am-11pm;
bYurikamome Line to Daiba (south exit); E
The Glien Passage themepark is home
to every conceivable type of restaurant,
though Gompachi, a traditional izakaya,
delicious robatayaki (grilled skewers). There
is an English menu available, though with
all the wafting aromas of delicious roasting
meats, chickens, fish and seafood filling the
air, it is not necessary to look at a menu to
figure out what you want to eat.
173
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

LES DEUX BLEUE Map pp489 Caf
American-style brew pub serves up any
%3536-8326; 1st fl, LaLaPort Toyusu, 2-4-9
Toyosu, Minato-ku; plates 1000-1500; h11am-
11pm; bYurikamome Line to Toyosu (main exit); E
Spend a bit of time in Tokyo, and youll
quickly realise that the Japanese are avid dog
lovers. Considering that a day out at Odaiba
should be about the whole family, this dog-
friendly caf serves up tasty treats for both
humans and their canine companions. Fill up
on meaty burgers or tofu treats, though be
sure to save some for Spot after your meal,
you can both burn off the calories by run-
ning around the fenced-in dog enclosure.
T Y HARBOR BREWERY
Map pp489 Brew Pub
(conveyor-belt sushi) restaurants, Ten-ten
%5479-4555; Bond Street, 2-1-3 Higashi-Shina-
gawa, Minato-ku; plates 1000-1500; h11.30am-
2.30pm & 5.30-10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to
Shinagawa (east exit); E
Sometimes a good beer can be hard to
find, especially in a country that favours
mass-produced lagers instead of fostering
EATING ODAIBA & AROUND
a culture of microbrews. Fortunately, this
number of original homebrews that are
sure to take the edge off while simultane-
ously pleasing the palate.
TEN-TEN TSUNE-TSUNE KAITENBO
Map p131 Dim Sum
%3599-6705; 7th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1
Daiba, Minato-ku; plates around 500; h11am-
11pm; bYurikamome Line to Odaiba Kaihin-ken
(main exit); E
There is no shortage of great Chinese res-
taurants in Little Hong Kong, though we
can promise you that you have never seen
anything quite like this novelty dim sum
spot. Drawing inspiration from kaiten-zushi
Tsune-tsune Kaitenbou (try saying that
with your mouth full!) offers conveyor-belt
dim sum feasts to hungry shoppers in need
of a dumpling-fuelled boost. Although
there is a limited English menu available,
it is not hard to simply grab what looks
good!

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
174
 Lonely Planet Publications

E NTE R TAI N M E NT

Kabuki-za (p176) Reminiscent of Himeji Castle, this is

the best kabuki venue in the world.
Karaoke (p184) Rent your own deluxe karaoke room
and splurge on sweets.
New York Grill and Bar (p181) Have your Lost in
Translation experience in this spectacular eyrie.
Kokuritsu N-gakud (p176) Dont say no to n be-
cause its slow; its transporting theatre if given a chance.
New National Theatre (p178) This is a renowned
venue for Western opera.
Street Performers (p186) Tokyoites may seem conformist
until you meet the weekend buskers around Yoyogi-ken.
Blue Note Tokyo (p189) Tokyos premiere jazz club.
Session House (p178) This small theatre hosts tradi-
tional, folk and modern dance.
Aoyama Enkei Gekij (p177) A lovely round theatre
nestled in the National Childrens Castle.
Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon (p177) Hosts many experi-
mental modern dance troupes of international renown.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

 TAKARAZUKA GEKIJ Map p62 A good bit of Japanese would be helpful

lonelyplanet.com
E NTE R TAI N M E NT
%5251-2001; http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english
in getting the gist of these underground
theatre pieces. Like most avant-garde
/index.html; 1-1-3 Yrakuch, Chiyoda-ku; tickets theatre, plays here tend towards ex-
from 3500; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Line to perimental explorations of contemporary
Slicing into a pumpkin-sized, ice creamtopped loaf of toasted bread while swilling Hibiya (exits A5 & A13) issues.
draft Kirin and belting out your fave Queen tunes in a room the size of a broom closet. While not really traditional theatre, the
Or quaffing thimble after thimble of sake with an unknown and increasingly rosy all-female Takarazuka Gekij revue, going
salaryman who then insists you join him at a bar down a dark lane in Roppongi. Or
watching an unexpected shower of artificial snow falling on Kabuki actors who have just
back to 1914, exposes Tokyos knack for
complexity. These musicals are in Japanese,
DANCE
Tokyos dance scene is a mixture of both in-
dispatched their samurai foes with feats of swordsmanship and acrobatics in The Tale but English synopses are available. A mostly ternational and indigenous styles. At venues
of the Forty-Seven Rnin, a beloved Japanese epic of loyalty, blood and revenge served female audience swoons over actresses in around the city you will find all the usual
very, very cold. drag. If you love camp, this is for you. Western dance forms ballet, modern, jazz
Thats fun, Tokyo-style. The city will rock you til you drop in its live houses, drink you under and experimental in abundance. You may
ENTERTAINMENT TRADITIONAL THEATRE

ENTERTAINMENT CONTEMPORARY THEATRE

the table in its izakaya (Japanese pubs) and mesmerise you with its traditional arts. Entertainment- also be able to see but (contemporary dance
wise, Tokyo is a microcosm of the best of Japan and the world, from the hippest hip-hop clubs
to the old-timey rakugo storytelling venues. What Dr Johnson said of London also applies to
CONTEMPORARY style) in its home environment, if your trip
happens to coincide with a performance
this city on speed if youre bored in Tokyo, you might as well be dead. THEATRE
Tokyo has a lively contemporary theatre
here.

TRADITIONAL THEATRE
Tokyo has one of the best traditional-theatre
scenes in Japan. The Kabuki-za is splendid
watching a show here is a must-do. Youve
probably already been warned, but keep in
mind that n (stylised Japanese dance-drama)
performances can feel like theyre crawling at a
snails pace (see p36). Believe it or not, its even
considered acceptable to doze (though not to
snore). Takigi (torch-lit) n performances are
more rousing because of the fires.
CERULEAN TOWER N THEATRE
Map p106
in Japanese; 1-16-4 Sht, Shibuya-ku; tickets from
%3477-6412; www.ceruleantower-hotel.com; B2
fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku; admission
varies; bShibuya (south exit)
Performances in Japanese are held in this
traditional theatre (you can also pop by just
to admire it between 2.30pm and 5.30pm
daily) in the Cerulean Tower Tky Hotel (p212).
KABUKI-ZA (KABUKI THEATRE)
Map p62
%3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza
/theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; tickets
2500-17,000; bHibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to
Higashi-Ginza (exit 3)
Performances and times vary from month
to month at Kabuki-za (p61) so check with
the TIC (Tourist Information Center; p255)
or the theatre for programme information.
Be sure to rent a headset for blow-by-blow
explanations in English, and pick up a bent
176
downstairs. A full kabuki performance (see
p36) comprises three or four acts (usually
from different plays) over an afternoon or
an evening (typically 11.00am to 3.30pm or
4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between
the acts. If four-plus hours sounds too long,
you can purchase last-minute tickets for a
single act, although seats are only on the
highest balcony. Since some acts tend to be
more popular than others, inquire ahead as
to which to catch, and arrive well in advance.
KANZE N-GAKUD Map p106
pieces. Die Pratze is northwest of the Imper-
Kanze N Theatre; %3469-5241; www.kanze.net,
3150; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
Kanze N-gakud is one of Tokyos most
highly regarded n troupes. By far the most
exciting are the rare outdoor night perform-
ances of Takigi N, where the masked actors
are illuminated by huge burning torches.
They are usually held on the grounds of a
temple or shrine in Tokyo.
KOKURITSU N-GAKUD Map p110
going on in town. Below are several options, many of which you can pick up around town in hard copy, usually at music
National N Theatre; %3423-1331; www.ntj
.jac.go.jp/english/index.html; 4-18-1 Sendagaya,
Shibuya-ku; tickets 2800-5600; bJR Ch Line to
Sendagaya (west exit)
This theatre stages the traditional chants
and dances n is famous for, as well as the
interludes of kygen (short, lively comic
farces) that serve as cathartic comic relief.
The stark legends and historical dramas
unfold on an elegant cypress stage.
scene. Language can be a barrier, as most of
the productions taking place in these alterna-
AOYAMA ENKEI GEKIJ Map p110
tive performance venues are in Japanese. Aoyama Round Theatre; %3797-5678; www
.aoyama.org; 5-53-1 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; admis-
DIE PRATZE Map pp489 sion varies; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to
Omote-sand (exit B2)
Found within Kodomo-no-Shiro (National
%3235-7990; www.geocities.jp/kagurara2000,
in Japanese; 2-12 Nishi-Gokench, Shinjuku-ku; Childrens Castle; p71) this midsized round
theatre stages musicals, ballet and modern
admission varies; bTzai Line to Kagurazaka (exit 1)
dance. Though the theatre is lovely, per-
Home to experimental theatre group OM-2,
formances tend towards the conservative.
this small space features a variety of genres,
Because of the venues location, many
from ballet to but (contemporary dance
style; p32) to experimental performance programmes are ideal for kids.
ial Palace, near Kagurazaka Station. BUNKAMURA THEATRE COCOON
Map p106
SUZUNARI THEATRE off Map pp489
%3477-9999; www.bunkamura.co.jp/english;
2-24-1 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies;
%3469-0511; www.honda-geki.com/suzunari
.html, in Japanese; 1-45-15 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)
admission varies; bOdaky or Kei Inokashira This dance space in one of Tokyos liveli-
Line to Shimokitazawa (south exit) est arts complexes (p107) shows occasional
WHERE TO FIND WHATS ON
Because of Tokyos sizeable expat community, there is loads of English-language information available about whats
stores or in international supermarkets.
Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp/entertainment.html) Comprehensive movie listings service, also available in the
hard-copy newspaper.
Metropolis (www.metropolis.co.jp) An excellent free resource that lists and reviews events, including contemporary
film. Available in record stores and expat-frequented cafs and restaurants.
Tokyo Q (www.tokyoq.com) Run by long-time expats who adore Tokyo, Tokyo Q is an excellent place to catch
glimpses of the city from the inside. Reviews and listings cover clubs and bars colourful, thoughtfully crafted and
discriminating. Many listings include fairly detailed maps.
177
lonelyplanet.com
experimental works by international dance
troupes. It has also been known to stage
musical dramas, though these take place
less frequently than dance programmes.
SESSION HOUSE Map p56
%3266-0461; www.session-house.net, in
Japanese; 158 Yaraich, Shinjuku-ku; admission
varies; bTzai Line to Kagurazaka (exit 1)
Most dance aficionados consider Session
House one of the best traditional, folk and
modern dance spaces in the city. The small
ENTERTAINMENT OPERA
theatre seats only 100 people, which means
that all performances have an intimate feel
to them.
SPACE ZERO Map p116
City in Shinjuku (p114) but also performs
%3375-8741; www.spacezero.co.jp, in Japanese;
B1 fl, 2-12-10 Yoyogi, Shinjuku-ku; admission
varies; bToei edo or Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku
(exit 6)
This is a 550-seat, fine-art performance
venue that happens to be located centrally
in Shinjuku. Space Zero is host to contem-
porary dance performances and experi-
mental theatre productions. Youll find it
in the basement of the Zenrsai Kaikan
building.
OPERA
World-class opera can regularly be seen in
Tokyo at venues such as the New National
Theater, next to Tokyo Opera City (p114) in
Shinjuku. The Japan Opera Foundation, man-
aging the renowned Fujiwara Opera troupe,
stages French and Italian operas.
NEW NATIONAL THEATRE Map p116
Shin Kokuritsu Gekij; %5351-3011; www.nntt
.jac.go.jp/english/index.html; 1-1-1 Honmachi,
Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bToei Shinjuku
Line to Hatsudai (Theatre exit)
This is a main venue for opera in Tokyo,
with Fujiwara Opera, Nihon Opera Kyokai
and Nikkai Opera performing here. Part of
the New National Theatres arts complex,
the Playhouse and the Pit are performance
venues for modern dance, with the lat-
ter hosting just about every international
dance luminary who passes through. A web
resource is www.operajaponica.org.
178
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Many of the worlds top-flight classical musi-
cians are trained in Japan and much of the
nations talent makes its home in Tokyo. A
thumb through one of the English dailies or
a quick navigation through their websites will
Aurora Lounge & Sky Bar Polestar (right) Both
tell you whats on.
TOKYO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA
www.tpo.or.jp/english/index.html
Founded in Nagoya in 1911, the Tokyo
Philharmonic is Japans oldest and
largest orchestra with 166 members.
Featuring distinguished foreign soloists
and conductors and a perennial presence
on the NHK TV New Years special, the
Philharmonic is based at Tokyo Opera
at Suntory Hall in the Ark Hills complex
in Akasaka (Map p92) and at Bunkamura
Orchard Hall (p106) in Shibuya.
TOKYO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
www.tokyosymphony.com/e-tokyo
One of Tokyos best, established in 1946,
this orchestra premieres works by contem-
porary Japanese composers, such as Ikumu
Dan and Yoshiro Irino. It also performs tra-
ditional works by Western masters, such as
Berlioz, Mahler and Schoenberg. Check its
website for performance times and venues.
BARS
Alcohol is very much a social lubricant in
Japan, and a lot of heavy drinking goes on
in Tokyo, something you will realise very
quickly if you happen to hop on any train
after 10pm; violence, though, is quite rare.
Roppongi, long the gaijin (foreigners; literally
outside people) bar capital of Tokyo, has the
developers have their way. Its a tiny postwar
lions share of bars per square metre, though
Shinjuku is no slouch. Most bars in the city
officially claim to be open from 5pm or 6pm
until midnight, though many stay open until
late becomes early again.
SHINJUKU
The streets and lanes radiating from the
worlds busiest train station hide enough
watering holes to souse an army. The largest
red-light district in East Asia, Kabukich, is
northwest of the station and abuts the storied
old drinking alleys of Golden Gai. Next door
DRINKS WITH A VIEW
To decompress from pounding the pavement all day,
rise to a different atmosphere. Savour spectacular
views while sipping a vodka martini at these bars
with views.
%3344-0111; 45th fl, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku,
have fine views from the Kei Plaza Hotel in
Shinjuku
New York Grill and Bar (p181) Get the Lost in
Translation experience with floor-to-ceiling vistas
Top of Akasaka (p184) Feels like floating in a
spaceship above Tokyo
is Shinjuku Ni-chme, Japans gay mecca,
home to about 200 gay and lesbian bars.
BAR PLASTIC MODEL Map p116 Arty/Stylish
ADVOCATES CAF Map p116 Gay & Lesbian
%3358-8638; B1 fl, 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;
h8pm-4am; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line
to Shinjuku-sanchme (exits C7 & C8)
This corner bar is so small that as the crowd
magically expands during the course of an
evening, it becomes more like a block party
and takes to the streets. Advocates welcomes
people of all genders, identities and nation-
alities. Its great place to start off the night.
ALBATROSS Map p116 Arty/Stylish
%3342-5758; www.alba-s.com; 1-2-11 Nishi-
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-2am; bShinjuku
(west exit)
Tucked away in aromatic Omoide-
yokocho (Memory Lane), Albatross and
the surrounding yakitori (charcoal-broiled
chicken and other meats or vegetables,
cooked on skewers) joints would have been
knocked down long ago if owners had let
space for cheek-to-jowl chats and boasts the
incredible rarity of a third-floor terrace right
in the middle of the neon jungle.
ARTY FARTY Map p116 Gay & Lesbian
%5362-9720; www.arty-farty.net; 2nd fl, 2-11-7
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-5am Mon-Sat, 4pm-
5am Sun; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to
Shinjuku-sanchme (exits C7 & C8)
This bar for boys and gals has been the
gateway to Tokyos gay neighbourhood,
Ni-chme, for many a moon. A cavernous
place with a dancefloor and intimate
lonelyplanet.com
booths, Arty Farty is open to all in the
community.
AURORA LOUNGE Map p116 Stylish
Shinjuku-ku; h11.30am-11.30pm; bToei edo
Line to Tochmae, exit B1)
Perched 150m up in the Kei Plaza Hotel
(p213), this bar has great views and drinks.
On the same floor, the crisp, elegant Sky Bar
Polestar (%3344-
ENTERTAINMENT BARS
0111; h5-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-11.30pm Sun & public
holidays) is built for gazing out over the city,
with each seat facing the windows. Drinks
start at 1500.
%5273-8441; 1-1-10 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku;
h8pm-5am Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun;
bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-
sanchme (exit B5)
Its true that in the last few years construc-
tion has started around Golden Gai, but
some of those hammers are wielded by a
new generation of iconoclastic bar masters
rather than a major developer. Bar Plastic
Model is one of the new joints, with an 80s
soundtrack and decorated with retro knick-
knacks.
BONS Map p116
Shots
%3209-6334; 1-1-10 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku;
admission 500; h7pm-5am; bMarunouchi or
Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit B5)
Theres a sign reading American Bar out
front, but Bons is about as American as
anko (azuki bean paste). Look for this cosy
dive on the Golden Gais (p119) southeast
corner, next to the police box. Its one of
the few bars in the neighbourhood that will
accommodate the odd nonregular patron.
CLUBHOUSE Map p116 Sports
%3359-7785; www.clubhouse-tokyo.jp; 3rd fl,
3-7-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hfrom 5pm Mon-
Fri, from 3pm Sat & Sun; bMarunouchi or Toei
Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit C3)
This clubhouse looks like the kind of wood-
trimmed beer bar youd find at any ski
lodge, and its a magnet for Tokyos diehard
179
lonelyplanet.com

of Chris Marker) than most of us ever will. A generally English ambience, pub food

lonelyplanet.com
GAY & LESBIAN TOKYO No English is spoken here, though youre and a decent selection of beers attract a
welcome to practise your rusty Franais. mixed crowd of 20-somethings, especially
Though issues like gay marriage are not on the public radar screen in conservative Japan, media is rife with tarento on weekends. The Hub has branches all
Unlike many Golden Gai establishments,
(media celebrities) who are gay or who pretend, like pseudo leatherman Hard Gay. Social acceptance has been slow, over the city, though this is probably the
this one is amenable to foreign visitors.
but in 2007 the central and metropolitan governments joined the Tokyo Pride Parade for the first time. Entertainment- most comfortable of the lot.
wise, the Tokyo scene is concentrated in Shinjuku Ni-chme, a few blocks east of Shinjuku Station that house hundreds
of gay and lesbian establishments. An English-language social networking site for gays in Japan is Homodachi (www NEW YORK GRILL AND BAR Map p116 Bar
.homodachi.jp), and there is the more comprehensive, info-stuffed Gay Japan (www.gay-jp.com, in Japanese) as well INSOMNIA LOUNGE Map p106 Arty/Stylish
as www.japanvisitor.com, in English. %5322-1234; 52nd fl, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku,
A great place to get basic info and tips on Tokyos gay and lesbian scene is Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com), which Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, 5pm-1am %3476-2735; B1 fl, 26-5 Udagawach, Shibuya-
has a page on Japan. For info on Ni-chme, see the Japanese site www.shinjuku-2.com. Ni-chme mainly caters Thu-Sat; bToei edo Line to Tochmae, (exit A4) ku; h6pm-5am; bJR Shibuya (Hachik exit)
to gay men, but more and more lesbian bars are opening up. There are usually lesbian theme-nights every month You may not be lodging at the Park Hyatt, Insomnia Lounge is that rare Shibuya find:
in Tokyo that make up the local party scene. Three big organisers are Goldfinger Party (www.goldfingerparty.com, but that doesnt mean you cant ascend a bar for grown-ups. Good food, low music
ENTERTAINMENT BARS

ENTERTAINMENT BARS
in Japanese), Diamond Cutter (www.diamondcutter.jp, in Japanese) and Grand Panache (grand-panache.fem.jp, to the 52nd floor to swoon over stunning and a cosy, mirrored red interior make it
in Japanese). views of Mt Fuji and the city. Theres a the kind of place to come when youre in
cover charge of 2000 after 8pm. the mood for conversation. The kitchens
open late, and the oddly eyeball-esque
Best Gay & Lesbian Bars mirrored wall behind the bar will induce
Advocates Caf (p179) This Ni-chme establishment has zebra-print walls and welcomes men and women. SHIBUYA insomnia if youre not already feeling it.
Ageha (p184) Massive club in Shin-Kiba holds gay parties every other month. Shibuya mainly caters to teens and 20-
somethings, but more adult-oriented pubs PINK COW Map p106 Arty/Stylish
Chestnut & Squirrel (opposite) A cosy, chatty lesbian bar in Shibuya with a seductive low-key vibe.
and lounges abound. For Golden Gaistyle
GB (below) Busy, lighthearted pickup joint featuring Madonna videos on the tube. old-timey watering holes, check out Nonbei %3406-5597; www.thepinkcow.com; B1 fl, 1-3-
Kinswomyn (below) This Shibuya lesbian bar is perfect for chatting. Yokocho alley northeast of the station by the 18 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-late, Tue-Sun;
JR Yamanote Line tracks; most tiny bars there bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-
only seat a handful. Harajuku and Omote- sand (exit B2)
rugby fans. Its comfortable, rugged interior roots reggae, but guest DJs also make ap- sand have more sophisticated options. With its animal-print dcor, rotating display
is a friendly place to settle in for one of the pearances. The cover includes one drink.
of local artwork and terrific all-you-can-eat
fine imported or domestic beers and what-
BELLO VISTO Map p106 Bar buffet (2625) every Friday and Saturday,
ever games on the tube. GB Bar
the Pink Cow is a funky, friendly place to
%3352-8972; 2-12-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku hang out. Also host to stitch-and-bitch
DUBLINERS Map p116 Pub %3476-3000; 40th fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokach,
h8pm-3am evenings, writers salons and indie film
A welcoming, dimly lit bar with 1980s videos
Shibuya-ku; h4pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pm-
midnight Sat, Sun & public holidays; bShibuya, screenings, its a good bet if you seek some
%3352-6606; www.dubliners.jp; 2nd fl, Lion Beer on the tube and a cruise vibe. GB has friendly artistic stimulation.
Hall Bldg, 3-28-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hnoon- staff and decently generous drinks and south exit)
1am Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; bJR Yamanote makes for a great spot to begin the night. This 40th-floor eyrie on the Cerulean Tower
Line to Shinjuku (east exit) keeps the interior lights dim so that you can
see the lights on the far horizon. The 95-seat
HARAJUKU & AOYAMA
The strains of an old Irish tune may meet KINSWOMYN Map p116 Gay & Lesbian DEN AQUAROOM Map p110 Specialty
you at the door. Live music, good beer capacity ensures the atmosphere is always
intimate. Cocktails and wine start at 1155.
and a warm break from Tokyos smooth, %3354-8720; 3rd fl, 2-15-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku- %5778-2090; B1 fl, 5-13-3 Minami-Aoyama,
cool rhythm have made this one of the ku; h8pm-4am Wed-Mon; bMarunouchi or Toei Minato-ku; admission 500-1000; h6pm-2am
citys most frequented international water- Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit C8) CHESTNUT & SQUIRREL Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or
ing holes. Pub grub includes a few Irish This established girls-only spot is wel- Map p106 Bar Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit B1)
standards in portions that are larger than coming and comfortable, and is run by %090-9834-4842; www.chestnutandsquirrel Darting fish within the walls of immaculate
normal for Tokyo. Theres a second branch a lesbian activist. English is spoken here, .com; 3rd fl, 3-7-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h8pm- blue aquariums make a visual counterpoint
in Ikebukuro (Map p122). making it a perfect stop for visitors, but its 12am Wed) to the bop of jazz basslines. But even pret-
more a spot for drinking and chatting than This caf has international lesbian nights on tier than the dark dcor is the chic clientele
GARAM Map p116 Specialty for dancing. Wednesdays and guest DJs. Its in the Oishi hanging out here for the evening. Chill with
Building behind the Shibuya police station. a fruity cocktail in this velvety lounge and
%3205-8668; www17.big.or.jp/~kamal; 7th fl, LA JETE Map p116 Arty/Stylish enjoy the view.
1-16-6 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; admission from HUB PUB Map p106 Pub
1000;h8pm-5am; bJR Yamanote Line to %3208-9645; 1-1-8 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; LAS CHICAS Map p110 Caf-Bar
Shinjuku (east exit) h7pm-late Mon-Sat bMarunouchi or Toei %3770-4135; www.pub-hub.com; B1 fl, 25-9
Garam is a cool little reggae club with a Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit B5) Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, %3407-6865; 5-47-6 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
friendly owner and no Rasta poseurs. The Kawai-san, the proprietor of this Golden Gai 5pm-2am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to h11am-11pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon
house DJ spins a mix of dub, hip-hop and bar, knows more about film (especially that Shibuya (Hachik exit) Line to Omote-sand (exit B2)
180 181
lonelyplanet.com

Slated to reopen in spring 2008, Las Chicas worm. Luckily, this gem in the jungle that PROPAGANDA Map pp967 OTHER NEIGHBOURHOODS

is also a restaurant and one of Harajukus
core art spaces. But that doesnt mean you
cant come here just to hang out in the bar
area, which is the kind of place where you
want to sit and sip for hours.
TOKYO APARTMENT CAF
Map p110
%3401-4101; 1-11-11 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;
h11am-3am; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingmae
(exit 1)
This subterranean room with a view dou-
ENTERTAINMENT BARS
is Roppongi is more about savouring the
subtleties of its 400-plus varieties of tequila
rather than tossing back shots of Cuervo.
BUL-LETS Map pp967 Specialty
couldnt possibly take itself too seriously,
%3401-4844; www.bul-lets.com; B1 fl, 1-7-11
Caf-Bar Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission 2000; hfrom
around 6pm; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Rop- pick-up scene if this is on your agenda.
pongi (exit 2)
This mellow basement space plays world-
wide trance and ambient sounds for bare-
foot patrons. Mattresses in the middle of
lonelyplanet.com
Shots
Great bars can be found throughout Tokyo,
%3423-0988; 2nd fl, 3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku; whether it be a friendly izakaya by a suburban
h6pm-dawn Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei edo
station or a British pub in Ebisu.
Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
A shot bar calling itself Propaganda
AUX AMIS DES VINS Map p62 Specialty
and it doesnt. Happy hour (6pm to 9pm)
specials cost around 500, and its sort of a %3567-4120; 2-5-6 Ginza, Ch-ku; h5.30pm-
2am Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; bYrakuch
Line to Ginza-itchme (exits 5 & 8)
Even when it rains, the plastic tarp comes
TOKYO SPORTS CAF Map pp967 Sports
down and good wine is drunk alleyside.
The enclosed upstairs seating area is warm

bles as a cool daytime coffee house and
eatery. At night, the atmosphere goes a
shade hipper and cocktails are served until
closing. This is a good place to hole up for
the evening if youre out for the night on
Omote-sand.
ROPPONGI
Roppongis downhill slide into a jungle of
pushy foreign touts luring drinkers to rip-off
joints has slowed with the opening of posh
megacomplexes Roppongi Hills and Tokyo
Midtown. Its still the best place to drink
in Tokyo, though it may not feel especially
Japanese. Theres a great mix of cheap shot-
bars and upscale spots here.
A971 Map pp967 Arty/Stylish
%5413-3210; www.a971.com, in Japanese; 9-7-1
Akasaka, Minato-ku; h7am-5am Mon-Fri, 10am-
5am Sat, 10am-12am Sun; bHibiya or Toei edo
Line to Roppongi (exit for Tokyo Midtown)
Tucked into an outside corner of the
recently built Tokyo Midtown complex,
this hip restaurant-bar pulsates with
friendly drinkers on Friday and Saturday
nights. The crowd, a good mix of gaijin
and locals, spills out onto the surrounding
sidewalk and the vibe is very laidback and
conversational.
AGAVE Map pp967 Specialty
%3497-0229; B1 fl, 7-15-10 Roppongi, Minato-
ku; h6.30pm-2am Mon-Thu, 6.30pm-4am Fri &
Sat; www.agave.jp; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi (exit 2)
Rawhide chairs, cruzas de rosas (crosses
decorated with roses) and tequila shots
for the willing make Agave a good place
for a long night in search of the sacred
182
the floor provide refuge from the madding
crowd, but dont get the wrong idea its
not always tranquillity and deadbeats.
HEARTLAND Map pp967 Arty/Stylish
cheering on your favourite team. Sports-
%5772-7600; www.heartland.jp, in Japanese;
6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11am-5am;
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
Named for the house beer from Kirin,
Heartland is a chic, easygoing watering
hole at the base of Roppongi Hills West
Tower that caters to professional expats
and Japanese. It doesnt have the zoolike
atmosphere of bars on Roppongis main
drag and drinks are reasonably priced.
MISTRAL BLUE Map pp967 Shots
%3423-0082; www.trainbar.com; 5-5-1 Roppongi,
Minato-ku; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat; bHibiya or
Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
This lovable hole in the wall, also known
as Train Bar for its resemblance to the
interior of a carriage, is about as unpreten-
tious as it gets in Roppongi. The many for-
eign customers who have drained cheap
beers here have left their mark every
surface, even the light bulbs, is covered
with signatures.
MOTOWN HOUSE 1 & 2 Map pp967 Shots
%5474-4605; www.motownhouse.com; 2nd
fl, 3-11-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-5am;
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
The crass may call it ho town, but on the
pick-up front its no worse (or better?) than
its neighbours, and since it expanded to
two venues, it can actually be quite relaxed.
Drinks start at 800. Funk, soul, R&B and
hip-hop dominate here, of course.
%3404-3675; www.tokyo-sportscafe.com; 7-15-31
Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-5am Mon-Sat;
go with your wine or full prix-fixe dinners. A
bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 4)
With Kilkenny beer on tap, a pool table and
a talking computerised alcohol tester, this
friendly sports bar is the obvious choice for
FOOTNIK Map p102
wise, its more Rotherham United than
Chicago Bulls, and many events here are
broadcast live. By the early morning it can
get quite rowdy.
IKEBUKURO
Off the beaten path for imbibing travellers,
Ikebukuros wealth of restaurants, karaoke
rooms and izakaya (Japanese-style pubs)
make it worth the trip.
BOBBYS BAR Map p122 Pub
Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am Sat; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka
%3980-8875; 3rd fl, 1-18-10 Ikebukuro, Toshima-
ku; h6pm-3am Mon-Thu, 6pm-5am Fri & Sat;
bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro (west exit)
One of Tokyos longest-standing and best-
known gaijin bars, perfect for those in
need of a warm barstool, a dartboard and
reasonably priced drinks (from 500). The
crowd here is always international a good
mix of long-time expats and travellers.
SASASH Map p122 Izakaya
%3971-9363; 2-2-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals
from 6000; h5-10pm Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi
Line to Ikebukuro (exit C5)
The proprietor is famous for having been
a kamikaze pilot whose number was just
about up when the war ended. To celebrate
his good fortune, he dedicated himself to
knowing all there is to know about sake,
making Sasash a favourite of those seek-
ing a dignified izakaya experience (p172).
ENTERTAINMENT BARS
and informal, and you can order snacks to
solid selection of wine comes by the glass
(800) or by the bottle.
Sports
%5795-0144; www.footnik.net; 1-11-2 Ebisu,
Shibuya-ku; h11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 3pm-1am
Sat & Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)
Cold pints cost only 700, and the big-
screen TVs broadcast what else? footy
(er, soccer) for the footniks. Find this friendly
pub downstairs from Good Day Books (p143).
HOBGOBLIN Map p92 Pub
%6229-2636; www.hobgoblin.jp; 2-13-19
Akasaka, Minato-ku; h11am-3pm & 5pm-1am
(exit 2), Ginza & Namboku Lines to Tameike-sann
(exit 9)
Far better than your average Britpub
replica, Akasakas Hobgoblin is run by an
Oxfordshire brewery. It serves good pub
fare, like toad in the hole, with excellent
microbrews. Youll find this Hobgoblin in
the basement of the building next to the
clearly marked Marugen 23 building.
LION BEER HALL Map p62 Pub
%3571-2590; www.ginzalion.jp, in Japanese;
7-9-20 Ginza, Ch-ku; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat,
11.30am-10pm Sun; bGinza, Hibiya or Maru-
nouchi Line to Ginza (exits A2 & A3)
This is an almost-Bavarian beer hall smack
in the middle of the otherwise ritzy, retail-
crazed Ginza. Good pub food and a lovely
1930s mural on the wall only add to the
atmosphere on weekend nights, which
have been known to erupt into song.
183
lonelyplanet.com
GRAND PRINCE HOTEL AKASAKA
Map p56 Cocktail Lounge
sweets on the menu and a decent Mexican
%3234-1121; 40th fl, 1-2 Kioi-ch, Chiyoda-ku;
h5pm-1am;bGinza & Marunouchi Lines to
Akasaka-mitsuke (exit 7)
If youre planning an intergalactic rendez-
vous, this cocktail lounge is the place.
White tables on a purple carpet floating in
the middle of the city create a very spacey
atmosphere.
WHAT THE DICKENS Map p102 Pub
ENTERTAINMENT KARAOKE
%3780-2099; www.whatthedickens.jp; 4th fl,
1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-1am Tue-
Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun; bHibiya Line to Ebisu
(exit 2) or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit)
What the Dickens occupies the 4th floor
of the Roob building, whose outstanding
faade looks as if its finished with a layer
of mud, and adorned with the mirrored
replica of a hummingbird. The beer and
pub grub are up to snuff, and good live
music and the occasional poetry reading
keep things rolling.
KARAOKE
You cant avoid it and you cant beg off when
the mic gets passed to you! Karaoke is a national
pastime in Japan, an ice-breaker and welcome
tonic for the strictures of the daily grind. The
easiest way to understand the phenomenon
is to simply take a swig of Asahi, fill your
lungs with air and belt out your best version
of Bohemian Rhapsody no matter how off-
key. Luckily, most group singing is not open-
mic bar-room style it takes place in private
rooms that are rented by the hour for around
600 per person. Parlours are ubiquitous but
the big ones are in entertainment areas like
Shinjuku and Shibuya. Popular chains include
Big Echo and Karaoke-kan.
PASELA Map pp967
dawn. Two drinks are included in the cover
%0120-759-880; www.pasela.co.jp, in Japanese;
5-16-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h5pm-8am Mon-Fri,
2pm-10am Sat & Sun; 525 per hr per person Sun-
Thu, 630 per hr per person Sat & Sun; bHibiya or
Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
Pasela boasts decor that is a cut above the
other yodelling parlours. With six floors of
karaoke rooms including swanky VIP suites,
this branch of the chain is right in the heart
184
of Roppongi. Theres an extensive selection
of Western songs, wine, champagne and
bar-restaurant in the basement. From 5pm
to 7pm its karaoke happy hour 400 yen
including one drink.
CLUBS
Youll find tons of techno and disco and house
in the city, with most of the music starting
when doors open, usually around 8pm you
wont really want to arrive until 10pm or
so, when the volume increases and the floor
fills. Many clubs claim they close at midnight
(theyre legally required to tell you so), but
dont buy it. At most places, you can dance
until dawn. Your biggest concern is when the
trains stop and start running.
AGEHA Map pp489
%5534-1515; www.ageha.com; 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba,
Kt-ku; h11pm-5am Thu-Sat; admission 4000;
bYrakuch Line to Shin-Kiba (main exit)
This gigantic waterside club rivals any
youd find in LA or Ibiza. Mostly interna-
tional DJs appear here, with Japanese DJs
filling out the mix. Counterbalancing the
thumping dance floors are lounge spaces
and a little pool area. Free buses run to the
club every half hour from the east side of
Shibuya Station on Roppongi-dri; bring
photo ID.
CLUB 3.2.8 Map pp967
and is still the place where every visiting
%3401-4968; www.3-2-8.jp, in Japanese; B1 fl,
3-24-20 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission 2000-
2500; h8pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi (exit 1)
DJs at San-ni-pa (aka San-ni-hachi) spin a
quality mix, from funk to reggae to R&B.
With its refreshing un-Roppongi feel and a
cool crowd of Japanese and gaijin, 328 is
a fabulous place to boogie til the break of
charge.
CLUB ASIA Map p106
is on a hill behind the Shibuya 109 build-
%5458-2551; www.clubasia.co.jp, in Japanese;
1-8 Maruyamach, Shibuya-ku; admission around
2500; h11pm-5am; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
This massive club is worth a visit if youre
on the younger end of 20-something.
SALSA CARIBE Map pp967
lonelyplanet.com
%3746-0244; www.salsacaribe.jp; 2nd fl, 5-
3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission Fri & Sat
1500; h7pm-5am Sun-Thu, 7pm-7am Fri & Sat;
CLUBS bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)
Ageha (opposite) The narrow bar Salsa Caribe has long
been a gathering place for an internation-
Club 328 (opposite)
Ruby Room below ally diverse crowd that usually arrives at
midnight and leaves in the early hours of
Space Lab Yellow right
the morning only after every man has
danced with almost every woman in the
Events here are usually jam-packed every room.
night. Occasionally the club hosts some of
ENTERTAINMENT CLUBS
Tokyos bigger DJ events and hip-hop acts.
SALSA SUDADA Map pp967
MUSE Map pp967
%5474-8806; www.salsasudada.ne; 3rd fl, 7-13-8
Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission Fri & Sat 1500;
%5467-1188; B1 fl, 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; h6pm-6am; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Rop-
Sat admission 2000, incl 2 drinks (women get in pongi (exit 4)
free);h7pm-12am Mon-Fri, 9pm-12am Sat; www Tokyos sizable population of Peruvian and
.muse-web.com/etop.htm; bHibiya or Toei edo Colombian workers, many of whom grind
Line to Roppongi (exit 3) away at factories in Kawasaki and Yoko-
Muse, a catacomblike underground space hama, come here to salsa and merengue,
with intimate booths, dance floors and
as do many salsa-mad locals. If you dont
billiards, has an excellent mix of locals and know how to dance, theyll teach you (les-
foreigners. Theres something for everyone sons held nightly).
here, whether you want to dance up a storm
or just feel like playing darts or table tennis.
SPACE LAB YELLOW Map pp967
NEW LEX EDO Map pp967
%3479-0690; www.club-yellow.com; B1 & B2 fls,
1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission 2000-
%3401-1661; B1 fl, 3-13-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku; 3500; h8.30pm-late; bHibiya & Toei edo Line
admission from 2000; h8pm-5am; bHibiya or to Roppongi (exit 2)
Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Located by Nishi-Azabu crossing, Space
The Lex was one of Roppongis first discos Lab Yellow spins everything from house
to acid jazz, Brazilian samba to techno.
celebrity ends up. The cover here starts at
Foreign DJs are sometimes spotlighted:
around 2000 unless youve had your vis- regardless of who it is, the sound is always
age on the front of Vogue or Rolling Stone. excellent. Look for the entrance to this
But even noncelebrities get a free drink inky basement space next to the coin
with admission. parking-lot.
RUBY ROOM Map p106 VANILLA Map pp967
%3780-3022; www.moderndining.com/Ruby %3401-6200; www.clubvanilla.com; 7-14-30 Rop-
Room/index.shtml; 2nd fl, 2-25-17 Dgenzaka, pongi, Minato-ku; admission from 1500; h7pm-
Shibuya-ku; admission 1500; h9pm-late; bJR late; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits
Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit) 2 & 4)
This cool, sparkly gem of a cocktail lounge Attracting a mostly Japanese clientele,
Vanilla attracts fewer drunken gaijin kooks
ing. With both DJd and live music, the
than nearby clubs. Three floors of dance
Ruby Room is an appealing spot for older space are filled with different beats and
kids hanging in Shibuya. The cover includes crowds of peeps. Its at the end of a small
one drink, but if you dine downstairs at alley off of Roppongi-dri, close to Rop-
Sonoma (p168), admission is free. pongi crossing.
185
lonelyplanet.com

WOMB Map p106 as any good John, Paul, George or Ringo of many a Tokyo punk, is often grungy and

%5459-0039; www.womb.co.jp; 2-16
Maruyamach, Shibuya-ku; admission 1500-4000;
h8pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya
(Hachik exit)
Womb is all about house, techno and
drum n bass. All four floors get jammed at
weekends. Bring a flyer and theyll knock
500 to 1000 off the cover check around
Shibuya music shops beforehand, or print
one from Wombs website. Picture ID
required at the door.
ENTERTAINMENT LIVE MUSIC
fan would know, is the same as that of the
Liverpool club that first featured the fabu-
lous four flopheads.
CLUB QUATTRO Map p106
Blue Note Tokyo (p189)
%3477-8750; www.club-quattro.com; 32-13
Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; admission 3000-4000;
bShibuya (Hachik exit)
This venue feels like a concert hall, but
its actually more along the lines of a slick
club. It books local and international bands
of generally high quality. Though theres
lonelyplanet.com
smokey with just the right level of sweaty
intimacy. The music is always loud and
usually good.
LIVE-MUSIC VENUES MILK Map p102
Crocodile (opposite) %5458-2826; www.milk-tokyo.com, in Japanese;
Hot House (p189) B1 fl, 1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; admission
Liquid Room (below) 1000-3000; h8pm-4am; dHibuya Line to Ebisu
Milk (right) (exit 2) or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit)
In Ebisu, this is one of Tokyos best small
live clubs, featuring international punk, hard
Follow the spiral staircase to the basement
rock and alternative, along with some Tokyo

ENTERTAINMENT COMEDY
to hear blues, rock or light jazz musicians
no explicit musical focus, emphasis is on dub, hip-hop and electronica. This cool
LIVE MUSIC
Though the live-music scene keeps geriatric
rock and roll with leanings towards world
music.
get low down. Most acts are local, and of
the lighter, sweeter variety. Show up to see
space comprises three underground levels
housing a crowd of weirdos and punks. The
whether tickets arent completely sold out
hours (shows often end around 9pm), rock, on a given night, and take a quick listen
building also houses What the Dickens (p184).
house, blues, jazz and electronica are thriv- CROCODILE Map p110 at the door to sample before committing.
ing in Tokyo. Big international acts often Most shows start around 7pm. SHIBUYA-AX Map p106
appear at large venues such as the National %3499-5205; www.music.co.jp/~croco/index2
Stadium (p199) in Yoyogi or Budkan (Map pp489). .html; B1 fl, 6-18-8 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; admis- %5738-2020; www.shibuya-ax.com, in Japanese;
But Tokyo has many good small live houses. LA.MAMA Map p106
sion 2000-3000; h6pm-2am; bChiyoda Line to 2-1-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bJR
Shibuya is particularly ripe with them, and
Meiji-jingmae (exit 1) Shibuya (Hachik exit)
exceptional, idiosyncratic venues are also scat- Crocodile has something happening almost %3464-0801; www.lamama.net, in Japanese; B1 Shibuya-Ax has hosted big international
tered throughout the city. fl, 1-15-3 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission 2000;
every night. It could be jazz, it could be names like Stereophonics, the Pogues and
rock, it could even be country and western h6.30pm-12.30am;bJR Yamanote Line to Cyndi Lauper as well as Japanese acts like
CAVERN CLUB Map pp967 Shibuya (Hachik exit)
or Cuban. Get here early, as things are Triceratops. Its a large, slick venue with its
Just about every Japanese band from Buck-
known to fill up fast, especially on Friday
Tick to Melt-Banana has passed through
own line of proprietary merchandise. Look
%3405-5207; www.cavernclub.jp, in Japanese; and Saturday nights.
here. The room is fairly spacious, but even
for the logo evoking the nuclear hazard
5-3-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission 1500; when the place gets crowded youll never
symbol.
hfrom 6pm; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Rop- EGGMAN Map p106 be far from the stage. Shows usually begin
pongi (exit 3) around 7pm. SHIBUYA O-EAST Map p106
The heartfelt, adeptly executed covers per- %3496-1561; www.eggman.jp, in Japanese; 1-6-8
formed at Cavern Club continue to shine Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission 1000-3000; bJR %5458-4681; www.shibuya-o.com; 2-14-8
after all these years. The name of the spot, LIQUID ROOM Map p102
Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit) Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bJR

Shibuya (Hachik exit)
%5464-0800; www.liquidroom.net; 3-16-6 Hi- Shibuya O-East is the big mama of several
gashi, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; h7pm-late;
BUSKER HEAVEN by Tim Hornyak bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)
related venues forming a compound of
Going to my weekend news job at NHK TV, I would get off the Yamanote Line at JR Harajuku Station and proceed clubs up Love Hotel Hill. With its sheer size,
Some of the worlds greatest performers
through three distinct Japanese subcultures until I reached what I called Busker Heaven. First there are the gosurori this house draws bigger-name international
have graced the stage of the Liquid Room,
(Gothic Lolita), teens who sport black neo-Victorian fashions lace, frills and Little Bo Peep frocks. They congregate on and domestic acts.
from the Flaming Lips to Linton Kwesi
Jing-bashi bridge between JR Harajuku Station and the entrance to Meiji Jing Shrine. Next, just inside Yoyogi-ken, Johnson. This is an excellent place to see
are the twisting rockabillies with their pompadours, leather jackets and sound systems pumping out Chubby Checker.
Finally there are the BMX kids doing freestyle tricks on their bikes, plus a few skateboarders. Each group keeps to its
an old favourite or find a new one, but
youll have to buy tickets as soon as they COMEDY
Japanese comedy relies more on silly puns and
own turf, and each attracts foreign gawkers. go on sale.
But travellers who keep going towards NHK Hall (Map p106) will meet an amazing parade of rockers, rappers, folk slapstick than irony as in the West, but laughs
singers, acrobats and unclassifiable misfits who are out to show off their skills. They can be found on the sidewalk lining both modern and traditional, home-grown
LOFT Map p116 and foreign, are on offer in Tokyo.
Yoyogi-ken and in the pedestrian lane between the park and Ken-dri leading to Shibuya Station (the lane also hosts
ethnic and organic food fairs as well as flea markets). These performers are a throwback to the days of the takenoko-zoku
%5272-0382; www.loft-prj.co.jp, in Japanese;
(bamboo-shoot tribe), youth who thronged here in the 1970s and 1980s in colourful, exotic costumes to dance and sing. B2 fl, 1-12-9 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; admission ASAKUSA ENGEI HALL Map p86
The weekend scene got so popular and crowded that authorities shut it down in the early 1990s, but these vestiges are 1500-3000; h5pm-late; bShinjuku (east exit)
still highly entertaining youll find everything from manzai stand-up comics to inscrutable men in white bodystockings. This well-respected, quarter-century-old %3841-6545; 1-43-12 Asakusa, Tait-ku; adult/
Most are out to promote themselves and have fun, not make money. This cornucopia of independent talent is the flipside Tokyo live house, whose chequerboard student/child 2500/2000/1100; bGinza Line to
of Tokyos conformity, homogeneity and corporatism. Its also the best free spectacle in town. stage has hosted the feedback and reverb Tawaramachi (exit 3)

186 187
lonelyplanet.com

Asakusa Engei Hall hosts traditional rakugo, even more avant-garde space called Rise X English. Tickets are numbered as they are decorated with dark wood and deep velvet,

with all performances conducted in Japa-
nese. The linguistic confusion is mitigated by
lively facial expressions and traditional props
(performers use only a hand towel and a
folding fan), which help translate comic
takes on universal human experiences.
TOKYO COMEDY STORE
www.tokyocomedy.com
You probably know the type the class
clown, the merry exhibitionist who joins
this kind of comedy troupe. Basically, this is
a funny bunch of expatriated amateurs and
ENTERTAINMENT CINEMAS
(%3464-8555), a tiny offshoot of Cinema
Rise that screens mostly Japanese digital
films.
EUROSPACE Map p106
JAZZ
%3461-0211; ww.eurospace.co.jp; 1-5
Maruyamach, Shibuya-ku; bShibuya (Hachik
exit)
The focus at this fine theatre remains unwa-
veringly on small European films. Eurospace
also occasionally hosts documentary or
feature-film festivals, which will be listed in
sold and theatre-goers are called to screen-
ings as their numbers come up, preventing
competition for seats.
Tokyo has long loved jazz, and affections dont
seem to be on the wane. Major international
artists invariably stop in the city, often at the
Blue Note, and Japans emerging improvisers
most often get their start here at one of the
smaller clubs.
lonelyplanet.com
making this a good spot for a slow night of
cool sounds.
HOT HOUSE Map pp489
%3367-1233; 3-23-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku;
admission varies; h8.30pm-2am; bJR Yamanote
Line to Takadanobaba (main exit)
This must be the smallest jazz dive in the
world. Musicians play in twos and threes
(theres no room for more). Audiences are
usually a few dozen; get here early if youre
set on sitting in for the evening.

professionals doing their shtick. Shows take
place at various venues; check the website
for schedules.
CINEMAS
Tokyo cinemas show blockbuster movies in
small spaces, while charging you an average
1800. Some Hollywood flicks take a while to
open here. Most independent films in English
are not dampened by dubbing and some of
the more avant-garde theatres show films you
might not see anywhere else.
At larger theatres, getting seated is a free-
for-all once the doors open, so its a good idea
to go early and get a decent seat. For main-
stream flicks, the most stress-free theatres are
Virgin Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills (right) and Yebisu
Garden Cinema (right), which each have their own
seating systems.
CINE AMUSE EAST/WEST Map p106
Japanese; 1-5-16 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; tick-
%3496-2888; www.cineamuse.co.jp, in Japanese;
4th fl, 2-23-12 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; bShibuya
(Hachik exit)
This well-known arthouse standby screens
Japanese and foreign classics, as well as
new independent releases. Coffee, beer and
snacks are available at the small caf in the
lobby. This is a great place to take a break
from Shibuyas hectic pace while taking in
a matine.
CINEMA RISE Map p106
.jp/yebisu, in Japanese; Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20-2
%3464-0051; www.cinemarise.com, in Japa-
nese; 13-17 Udagawach, Shibuya; bShibuya
(Hachik exit)
Cinema Rise screens independent inter-
national cinema but very few indie Japa-
nese films. Just around the corner is an
188
the major English-language weeklies; and
sometimes screens late shows.
VIRGIN TOHO CINEMAS ROPPONGI
HILLS Map pp967
TOHO Located in a part of Akasaka that empties
%5775-6090; www.tohotheater.jp/theater/ropp
ongi/index.html; 6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku;
adult 1800-3000, child 1000, 1st day of month
1000, women on Wed 1000; h10am-midnight
Sun-Wed, 10am-5am Thu-Sat; bHibiya or Toei
edo Line to Roppongi (Roppongi Hills exit)
Virgins nine-screen multiplex has the big-
gest screen in Japan, as well as luxurious
reclining seats and Internet booking up to
two days in advance for reserved seats. This
state-of-the-art theatre also holds all-night
screenings on nights before holidays.
WASEDA SHOCHIKU Map p122
prime jazz spot in Aoyama to take in the
%3200-8968; www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~wsdsck/, in
Doctor John. Like its sister acts in New
ets 1300; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba
(main exit)
Waseda Shochiku softens the blow by
screening two films for the price youd
normally pay to see one. A favourite with
students and cash-strapped expats, the
bills normally feature second-run double
features, some of an artsy bent.
YEBISU GARDEN CINEMA Map p102
combs have been replaced by gaudy miniskirts and flashing neon lights, particularly in the modern red-light districts
%5420-6161; www.kadokawa-gardencinema
Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; adult/child 1800/1000, 1st day
of month 1000; h10am-11pm; bJR Yamanote
Line to Ebisu (east exit, then Skywalk)
This small, comfortable movie house is at
the far end of Yebisu Garden Place and
screens foreign independent films, many in
ENTERTAINMENT JAZZ
B-FLAT Map p92
JAZZ SPOT INTRO Map p122
%5563-2563; B1 fl, 6-6-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku;
admission from 2500; h6.30-11pm Mon-Sat; %3200-4396; www.intro.co.jp; B1 fl, 2-14-8 Taka-
bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exits 5A & 5B)
and grows quiet at night, this hip jazz club
danobaba, Shinjuku-ku; admission 1000; hfrom
noon; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main
exit)
often features local and European talent, as Its a good sign when a little club allows a
well as healthy doses of Latin jazz. As the quarter of its floor space to be monopo-
owner recently passed away, so too may the lised by a sexy grand piano. It also bodes
club check locally when youre in town. well when the place is staffed by musicians
who love to talk shop all night. At Jazz Spot
BLUE NOTE TOKYO Map pp967 Intro, all the omens are favourable.
%5485-0088; www.bluenote.co.jp; 6-3-16 JZ BRAT Map p106
Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; admission 6000-
15,000; h5.30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 5pm-12.30am %5728-0168; 2nd fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokach,
Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Shibuya-ku; admission varies; hfrom 6pm Mon-
Omote-sand (exit B3) Sat; bShibuya (south exit)
Serious cognoscenti roll up to Tokyos This lovely, airy venue in the Cerulean
Tower Tky Hotel books consistently solid
likes of Maceo Parker, Herbie Hancock and acts from Tokyo and abroad. The space
seats just over 100, who are always treated
York and Milan, the digs here are classily to an intimate ambience. Though theres no
KABUKICHOS WATER TRADE
During the late-Tokugawa period, a colourful world was born in which kabuki actors, prostitutes, poets and high-living
merchants cavorted in pleasure quarters such as Tokyos Yoshiwara district. This was the so-called floating world
(ukiyo), an ephemeral world of night pleasures (called mizu shbai or the water trade) centred on geisha houses,
brothels and drinking establishments.
Although prostitution was made illegal during the Allied occupation of Japan following WWII, the water trade is
alive and well in Japan. A new form of floating world exists, one in which gaily painted kimonos and decorative hair
of Shinjukus Kabukich and the areas around Ikebukuro Station.
While it is easy to romanticise the exploits of those otherworldly figures who live on in ukiyo-e (wood-block
prints), the modern floating world allows for little in the way of sentimentality today it is primarily a sleazy
underworld of illegal Southeast Asian sex workers and economically poor, young Japanese women controlled
by thoroughly unromantic yakuza (Japanese mafia) bosses. Unfortunately, there are few legal protections for
sex workers and immigrant women in the sex trade are completely vulnerable to the whims of the law and
the street.
189
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

formal dress code, youll feel better dress-
ing up rather than down.
SHINJUKU PIT INN Map p116
h6-11pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei edo Line
%3354-2024; www.pit-inn.com; B1 fl, 2-12-4
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; admission 3000-10,000;
hfrom 7.30pm Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun;
bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchme (exit C5)
Shinjuku Pit Inn, which has been around for
over 35 years, is not the kind of place you
come to talk over the music. Aficionados
come here to listen in silence to Japans
best jazz performers. Weekend matines
ENTERTAINMENT JAZZ
SWEET BASIL 139 Map pp967
STB 139; %5474-0139; http://stb139.co.jp; 6-7-11
Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission 3000-7000;
to Roppongi (exit 3)
Sweet Basil has a large, lovely space that
draws big-name domestic and interna-
tional jazz acts. Performances range the
gamut of the genre; check the calendar
on the website for the current line-up.
This classy joint is a good place to have an
Italian dinner before a show; call for reser-
vations between 11am and 8pm Monday

are half the price of evening performances. to Saturday.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
190
 Lonely Planet Publications

S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S

Sum Wrestling (p197) Watch the big guys take each

other on at this traditional Japanese outing.
Baseball (p198) It may be as American as apple pie,
but its also as Japanese as raw tuna.
Sento (p193) Nothing treats those travel-worn bones
like a good soak in a communal tub.
Ikebana (p196) It takes a lifetime to learn, but only a
few classes to get the basics of flower-arranging.
Learn Japanese (p195) Nihongo wo wakarimasu ka? If
not, then it might be time to learn the lingo.
Martial Arts (p192) Tokyo may be one of the worlds saf-
est cities, but its still good to know how to defend yourself.
Cycle (p195) One of the best ways to learn the lay of
the land is to travel with two wheels.
Conversation cafs (p198) Make new friends while
helping a few Japanese people brush up on their English.
Golf (p196) Sure enough, 18 holes might break the
bank, but its a quintessential Japanese experience.
Horse racing (p199) See if you can win some extra yen.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

 lonelyplanet.com
S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S SENT PRIMER
Prior to Japans miraculous postwar economic revolution, most private homes in Japan did not have baths, so every
evening people gathered their toiletries into a bowl and headed off to the local neighbourhood sent (public bath).
More than just a place to wash oneself, the sent served as a kind of community meeting hall, where news and gossip
Everyone needs to let off some steam once in a while, and though you may be working up a
were traded and social ties strengthened.
sweat navigating the streets, you may crave a more intense workout than the subway station
Unfortunately, the number of sent in Japan is rapidly declining, but there are still enough left in Tokyo for you to
stairs can offer. From martial arts training and pumping iron to a vigorous swim and a series
sample this most traditional aspect of Japanese life. More than just a cultural experience, however, a soak in a sent is
of transcendental asanas, there is no shortage of sports on offer in the Japanese capital.
the ideal way to cure the sore muscles born of a day of sightseeing.
Even if youre not the athletic type, Tokyo brims with activities catering to both the casual
Sent can be identified by their distinctive noren (half-length curtains over the doorway). Sent noren usually bear the
dabbler and the devout practitioner. Try your hand at flower arranging, take a few Japanese
hiragana (, yu) for hot water (occasionally, it may be written in kanji: ). At the bottom of the noren, look for the
classes, catch a few innings of baseball or, better yet, a few bouts of sum.
kanji for men () and for women ().
Also open to the public are Tokyos many public baths and hot springs. If youve had a long
Once youve located a sent, determine the mens or womens side, take off your shoes, place them in a locker in
day of sight-seeing and are starting to feel a bit travel worn, a blissful soak in a steaming bath
the entryway and slide open the door to the changing room. As you enter, youll see the attendant, who sits midway
is indeed the perfect antidote.
between the mens and womens changing rooms, collecting the entry fee. Sent usually cost between 300 and 500,
which usually includes the rental of a modesty towel. If youve forgotten any of your toiletries, you can buy them here
HEALTH & FITNESS
Most Tokyoites join private gyms or clubs
4-7.30pm Sat; bToei Mita or Toei edo Line to
Kasuga (exits A1 & A2) for a small price. Most sent are open from around 3pm to midnight.
In the changing room, youll see a bank of lockers and stacks of wicker or plastic baskets. Grab a basket and drop
Students of jud who are looking to keep
to participate in recreational sports, which your clothes into it. Next, find one of the common senmenki (washbowls) and place your toiletries in it, then place your
up their practice while in Tokyo are wel-
basket in a locker (these have keys on elastic bands). Now, use your modesty towel to cover up your sensitive bits, but
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

is why most facilities in the city are closed
to nonmembers. However, youll find that
visitors do have access to some of the citys
excellent, and heavily subsidised, public
sports facilities.
MARTIAL ARTS
Small dj (places of practice) of Japanese
martial arts disciplines exist in neighbour-
hoods all over Tokyo, but most instruction
and practice is conducted in Japanese. The
following organisations can point you to dj
where you may be able to take lessons or at-
tend a training session.
INTERNATIONAL AIKID
FEDERATION Map pp489
more; those seeking to practise here can
%3203-9236; www.aikido-international.org;
Aikikai Foundation, 17-18 Wakamatsuch, Shin-
juku-ku; h6am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30-11.30am
Sun; bToei edo Line to Wakamatsu-Kawada
(main exit)
Practising at the Aikikai Foundation re-
quires filling out an application form and
paying a registration fee in addition to a
monthly course fee. Shorter-term visitors
should stop by during office hours to ask
about dj where its possible to drop in
for training.
KDKAN JUD INSTITUTE Map p72
overview of whats going on in Tokyo as
%3818-4172; www.kodokan.org; 1-16-30 Kasuga,
Bunky-ku; open practice h3.30-8pm Mon-Fri,
come to stop by Kdkan Jud Institute in
the afternoons for open practice. Lessons
are also available here on a long-term
basis, and visitors are welcome to observe
training during practice hours.
KYMEIKAN off Map pp489
%3930-4636; 2-1-7 Akatsuka-Shinmachi, Itabashi-
ku; bYrakuch Line to Chikatetsu-Narimasu
(main exit)
Kymeikan dj welcomes foreign ob-
servers as well as practitioners of kend
(meaning way of the sword), a discipline
of wooden sword fighting that evolved
from actual sword techniques used by
samurai in battle. Theres a fee of around
5000 for a lesson lasting one hour or
usually reach an English speaker on the
phone at the dj.
WORLD UNION OF KARATE-D
ORGANISATION (WUKO) Map p92
bath will teach you more about daily life in
%3503-6640; www.wuko-karate.org; 4th fl,
Sempaku Shinkokaikan Bldg, 1-15-16 Toranomon,
Minato-ku; bGinza Line to Toranomon, exit 2
Although Okinawa is the traditional home
of Japans most famous martial art, there
are usually several dj in the city offering
karate instruction, as well as semi-regular
seems to recognise this, and so every sent
events and tournaments. For an excellent
(public bath) and onsen (hot spring) in the
well as in the rest of the world, stop on by
WUKO.
dont be alarmed if others around you havent public nudity doesnt have the same negative connotation here as it
does in the West.
Before you jump headfirst into the bath and immediately horrify all of your fellow bathers, you will first need to
rigorously wash your entire body. This is done at the banks of low showers and taps that line the walls of the place.
Grab a low stool and a bucket, and plant yourself at an open spot. First, fill the bucket with hot water and soap, work
up a lather, and start scrubbing everywhere (and we do mean everywhere!). As a foreigner, your scrub-down process
might be scrutinised by your fellow bathers, so it does pay to be thorough.
Once youve washed thoroughly and removed all the soap, you are ready for a relaxing soak in the tubs. At a good
sent, youll have a choice of several tubs, which usually include a scalding tub, a cold tub and a whirlpool bath, as well
as a sauna. At a great sent, you may also find a variety of mineral water tubs and possibly even an electric bath, which,
believe it or not, is meant to simulate swimming with electric eels!
While soaking in the tub, its good form to adhere to the following etiquette: try not to enter the tub with your
modesty towel, keep your head above the water, minimise your splashing and never wash yourself with the bath water.
Otherwise, feel free to spread out, chit-chat with your fellow bathers and even take a snooze.
After soaking away the strains of the day, if youve done everything correctly, you will have achieved a state called
yude-dako (boiled octopus). This is the point when youre going to want to rehydrate with a sports drink, or go for broke
by downing a beer or two. Regardless of which route you choose, however, youre going to want to stagger home quickly
and collapse onto your futon. Trust us after a day at the sent, youll sleep like the dead.
PUBLIC BATHS & HOT the perfect soak what a steal. It also means
youll encounter people from all walks and at
SPRINGS all stages of life mafia bosses bathe solemnly
alongside splashing toddlers and nobody bats
It has been said that a few minutes in a public
an eye. If youre craving a detour that will take
you off the beaten tourist path, this is it.
Tokyo than any book you could ever read.
These incredible venues, which locals still Though typically associated with mountain
resorts and small country inns, several onsen
seem to frequent even though almost all apart-
ments in Tokyo have their own shower and are found in Tokyo. Most of these onsen draw
bath, continue to be some of the most inclu- their mineral water from deep underneath
sive, amazing social spaces in the city. Tokyo Bay by definition, what sets an onsen
Luckily, the metropolitan government apart from a sent is that onsen water must
issue from a natural hot spring. Sent, hap-
pily, can heat plain tap water to deliciously
city is generously subsidised. This means excruciating temperatures and bring baths
youll usually be charged only around 500 for to the city-dwelling masses.

192 193
lonelyplanet.com

ASAKUSA KANNON SENT Map p86 in the midst of the citys most fashionable

and well-to-do precincts.
%3844-4141; 2-7-26 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admission
700; h6.30am-6pm Fri-Wed; bGinza, Hibiya or
Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6)
Near Sens-ji, the water at this traditional
bathhouse is a steamy 40C. Asakusas
historic ambience makes this a great place
for a soul-soothing soak.
JAKOTSU-YU Map p86
womens sides closely for any serious bath-
%3841-8645; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Tait-ku; admis-
sion 400; 1pm-midnight Wed-Mon; bGinza Line
to Tawaramachi (exit 3)
This Edo-era bath is one of our favourite
sent in Tokyo (and the preferred place of
repose for neighbourhood yakuza, Japanese
mafia, as well). First, be warned: the bath-
ers here adore this place and initially will
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS
FEELING TONGUE-TIED?
KOSHI-NO-YU SENT Map pp967
%3404-2610; 1-5-22 Azabu-Jban, Minato-
ku; admission 400; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon;
bNamboku or Toei edo Line to Azabu-Jban
(exits 4 & 7)
This place is overseen by a no-nonsense
bath mistress who watches the mens and
ing infractions or attempted voyeurism. Up-
stairs is the fancier Azabu-Jban Onsen (1260),
which uses the same tea-coloured, mineral-
rich water piped from 500m underground,
but also features a sauna, a cold bath and
tatami rooms. If youre looking to hang out
with the locals, however, the downstairs
bathing area is really the thing.
lonelyplanet.com
Dont know your sayonara from your sumimasen? The following language schools can help you start speaking the
Japanese language in no time:
Academy of Language Arts (Map p56; %3235-0071; www.ala-japan.com; 5th fl, 2-16-2 Agebach, Shinjuku-ku;
bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to Idabashi, exit B1)
East West Japanese Language Institute (off Map pp489; %3366-4717; www.eastwest.ac.jp; 2-36-9 Ch,
Nakano-ku; bMarunouchi Line to Nakano-sakaue)
Sendagaya Japanese Institute (Map p122; %3232-6181; www.jp-sji.org; 7th fl, 1-31-18 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-
ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba, main exit)
ROKURYU KSEN Map p72 variety of routes each week. Bring your best
drinking shoes.
%3821-3826; 3-4-20 Ikenohata, Tait-ku; admis-
sion 300; h3.30-11pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda Line
to Nezu (exit 2) CYCLING
It may feel like a good neighbourhood Tooling around Tokyo on a bike can turn
you onto some wonderful unexpected al-
sent, but its actually an onsen where

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

watch you carefully to make sure no dirty
or soapy bodies make their way into the
sacred tub. Once youve convinced them
youre up to scrubbing every inch, head
into the incredibly hot indoor soaking area
where youll be massaged by tea-coloured
water that is propelled by vigorous jets.
Once youre cooked, youre ready for the
real treat: the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framed
rotemburo (outdoor bath) thats just outside.
The water in this little pool is much more
temperate and now that your muscles have
been turned to loose string by the heat, you
could sit here for hours, perhaps wandering
occasionally to the cold bath a few steps
away, just to keep yourself awake. Keep in
mind that the sauna is off limits unless you
pay an additional fee.
KOMPARU-YU ONSEN Map p62
%3571-5469; 8-7-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; admission
400; h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat; bGinza or JR
Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)
The fact that this straightforward, Meiji-era
bath manages to keep its wits about it, even
as real estate prices continue to climb in the
ritzy Ginza that surrounds it, must be one
of Tokyos best jokes. The bath mistress is
a daunting battle-axe no kidding, this gal
chews tacks. With this in mind, make sure
you scrub extra hard behind your ears, and
dont even think about wearing the plastic
slippers intended for the toilet out into the
general locker room. That said, Komparu-yu
is a refreshing slice of Shitamachi (low city)
LA QUA SPA Map p56
hot springs. The bubbling amber water
%5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua
/spa.htm; 1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; entrance
2565, charge for Healing Baden 525; extra charge
for late night bathing 1890; h11am-9am;
bMarunouchi Line to Krakuen, or JR Ch or JR
Sbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit)
One of the citys few true onsen, this unbe-
lievably chic and sophisticated spa complex
is where serious bathing aficionados go to
indulge in a bit of class and luxury. With
multiple floors boasting an incredible vari-
ety of baths, massage parlours, restaurants
and relaxation areas, achieving beauty
as well as peace of mind has never been
easier. See p58 for more information.
-EDO ONSEN MONOGATARI Map p131
the best places to run, with lots of greenery
%5500-1126; 2-57 Aomi, Kt-ku; adult/child
from 2800/1500, from 6pm-2am 1900/1500;
h11am-9am; bYurikamome Line to Telecom
Center (main exit) or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport
(free shuttle bus)
-edo Onsen Monogatari does bill itself as
an old Edo theme park, so come here for
kitsch rather than authenticity. Its a good
place to socialise in mixed groups, as theres
an outdoor footbath area for relaxing in your
yukata (light cotton robe). You wouldnt
come here for a simple scrub, but if youd
like to make a day of it in Odaiba with some
chums, this is a good place for an evening
soak. See p130 for more information.
the water is pleasantly hot, as opposed
to scalding hot as it is at some other city
contains minerals that the many old tim-
ers who come here in the afternoon claim
can cure a number of ailments. These
same folk tell stories about the occasional
ancient leaf thats worked its way up the
pipes and into the tub. These leaves are
in high demand and are reputed to be
excellent for your skin. The bath is located
down a small lane on the right; look for
the traditional Japanese building with the
blue curtains.
RUNNING
While Tokyos city streets are generally too
crowded for jogging though they do make
an excellent obstacle course in that respect
there are parks aplenty for runners. Some of
Its a decent deal if youre renting for
and long paths, include Yoyogi-ken (p108), Meiji-
jing (p109) and Higashi-gyen (p51). If you prefer
not to jog solo, and instead like it to be a social
event, try hashing with the Tokyo members
of that famous drinking organisation with a
running problem.
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
http://tokyohash.org
Formed in 1938, this worldwide clubs
activities are a mix of mad dashing and
serious drinking done by cheeky joggers
with sobriquets such as Sakura Sucker.
Several planned runs meander through a
leys and back streets, but you will have to
sharpen your senses to avoid opening taxi
doors and pedestrians suddenly veering into
your path. The city is pretty flat, so most of
the challenge will come from finding your
way between points B and A. Some ryokan
(traditional Japanese inns) rent or loan
bicycles to their guests, and there are a few
mellow cycling courses in the city parks. Be
sure to always lock up your bike as theft does
happen, even in a city as seemingly innocu-
ous as Tokyo.
EIGHT RENT Map p106
%3462-2382; 31-16 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku;
rentals per day 1920; bJR Yamanote Line to
Shibuya (south exit)
Near the south exit of Shibuya Station,
this place requires a passport to rent a
bicycle; call ahead for an appointment.
only one day, but if you plan to get
around on a bike for the duration of your
stay, you might be better off purchasing
a cheap bike from Tky Hands (p142) and
selling it when you leave. Call ahead for
an appointment.
IMPERIAL PALACE CYCLING COURSE
Map pp523
%3211-5020; h10am-3pm Sun; bChiyoda
Line to Nijbashimae (exit 2)
Every Sunday, 500 free bicycles are lent for
use along the 3.3km Imperial Palace cycling

194 195
lonelyplanet.com
THE GENTLE ART OF IKEBANA
Fancy a hand at ikebana, the traditional Japanese art of flower-arranging? Schools to get you started:
Ohara School of Ikebana (; International Division; Map p110; %5774-5097; www.ohararyu
.or.jp/english/class/index2.htm; 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to
Omote-sand, exits B1 & B3) Ohara specialises in flower-arranging classes for students of all levels. One-timers and
short-term visitors are welcome, as are those whod just like to watch.
Sgetsu Kaikan (; Map p92; %3408-1151; www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index.html; Sgetsu Kaikan
Bldg, 7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-8pm Fri; bGinza, Hanzmon or Toei edo
Line to Aoyama-itchme, exit 4) An avant-garde ikebana school, with ikebana displays, a bookshop and coffee shop.
Call ahead for class information. See p93 for more information.
course. Bikes are given on a first-come, first-
served basis and can be picked up next to
the Babasakimon police box just outside
the station exit.
MEIJI-JING OUTER GARDENS
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS
Map p110
%3405-8753; h9am-4pm Sun & holidays;
bToei edo Line to Kokuritsu-Kygij (exit A2)
On Sundays and holidays, 400 bicycles are
lent to ride the road that encircles Meiji-
jings outer gardens. Pick up these free
bikes outside the office near the National
Stadium (Map p110).
GOLF
Golfers who live in Tokyo claim that its
cheaper to tee off in Hawaii because the en-
tire trip costs less than booking a space at
one of the 500 local courses. Sadly, theyre
probably right, though Tokyo does have 19
public golf courses that are somewhat reason-
able (assuming you can get a spot). The most
conveniently located of the public courses is
listed below:
TOKYO TOMIN GOLF COURSE
off Map pp489
%3919-0111; 1-15-1 Shinden, Adachi-ku; admis-
sion from 5000; bNamboku Line to Shimo
If you dream of sand traps and short puts,
youll want to consider giving this place a
go. Some ability to speak Japanese will be
useful when making a reservation, though
most hotel staff can easily help you past
this obstacle. Keep in mind that spring and
autumn tend to be when the weather is
fine and the course is often booked out
weeks in advance.
196
only by those who will be living in Tokyo.
if youre just in the mood for a good swim
SKATING
What could be better on a sweltering summer
afternoon than gliding around an icy, indoor
skating rink? If youd rather mentally score
the double axels than execute them, the rinks
sell observer tickets (300 to 400) for those
not taking to the ice.
TAKADANOBABA CITIZEN ICE SKATE
RINK Map pp489
to the public from 5pm to 9pm on most
%3371-0910; 4-29-27 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-
ku; adult/child 1300/800; hnoon-7.45pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-7.45pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line
to Takadanobaba (Waseda exit)
The peoples skating rink, a 30m by 60m slab
of ice, is used for lessons, ice hockey, speed
skating and general-purpose fun. Skate
rental costs 500; discounts are taken off
admission if you show up after 5pm. Head
west out of Takadanobaba Station and walk
about five minutes along Waseda-dri; look
for the big yellow sign to your left.
MEIJI-JING ICE SKATING RINK
Map p110
though no lessons are given, spectators are
%3403-3458; Gobanchi, Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku-
ku; adult/child 1300/900; hnoon-6pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6pm Sat & Sun; bToei edo Line to Koko-
ritsu-Kygij (exit A2) or JR Ch or JR Sbu Line to
Sendagaya (main exit)
Open year-round, Meiji-jing Ice Skating
Rink is there for a good twirl and glide
around the rink. When you arrive youll
be given a choice between three types
of skates ice hockey, speed skating and
figure skating (rentals cost 500). Choose
whichever will help you move most grace-
fully across the NHL-sized rink. Discounts
on admission are offered after 3pm.
GYMS & POOLS
In general, joining a Japanese gym is a cum-
bersome, expensive process best undertaken
With that said, if youre here for the long
run, we recommend it most gyms have very
good facilities and superb bathing areas that
are especially tempting in winter. However,
or functional workout, the following spots
should help you work up a good sweat. Most
swimming pools require that swimmers wear
bathing caps.
CHIYODA SOGO TAIKUKAN POOL
Map p68
nouchi Line to Ogikubo (south exit)
%3256-8444; www.city.chiyoda.tokyo.jp/english
/e-guide/sports.html; 2-1-8 Uchi-Kanda, Chiyoda-
ku; pool/gym 600/350; h9am-9.30pm, closed
3rd Mon; bChiyoda, Hanzmon or Marunouchi
Line to temachi (exits A1, A2, C1 & C2)
A public pool and weight room are avail-
able for reasonable fees. The pool is open
days, but hours vary. Keep in mind that
certain times during the day are reserved
for those residing in Chiyoda. The website
lists details in English.
CH-KU SOGO SPORTS CENTRE
Map p126
SUM
%3666-1501; 2-59-1 Nihombashi-Hamach, Ch-
ku; pool/gym 500/400; h9am-8.30pm; bToei
Shinjuku Line to Hamach
Another of Tokyos public gyms, this one
in Ch-ku has gym facilities and a swim-
ming pool. Kydo (Japanese archery) prac-
tice also takes place at the sports centre;
When a tournament isnt in session, you
welcome to watch this graceful discipline if
anyone is practising here.
wrestler hand-prints and the referees cere-
TOKYO METROPOLITAN
GYMNASIUM INDOOR POOL Map p110
%5474-2111; 1-17-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku;
admission 450; h9am-8pm, closed 3rd Mon;
bJR Sbu Line to Sendagaya (main exit)
If all that movement on land has made you
crave a few laps, head here. In addition to a
pool theres a weights room, although its use
requires an extra fee. The gymnasium and
pool are located just to the northwest of the
National Stadium in Harajuku, just a few min-
lonelyplanet.com
utes walk from the Sendagaya JR Station.
YOGA
Although yoga is not as popular as it was a
few years back, loyal devotees are still twisting
and contorting themselves in the pursuit of
peace of mind and strength of body. If youre
looking to take part in classes, the citys largest
school is listed below:
INTERNATIONAL YOGA CENTER
off Map pp489
%090-4596-7996; www.iyc.jp; 4th fl, 5-30-6
Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; sessions 3000; bMaru-
Drop in to do the downward dog at the In-
ternational Yoga Center, which has branches
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT
across Tokyo. Ninety-minute classes in
Ashtanga and Iyengar yoga are given in
Japanese, but you can check the website
for a list of English-speaking instructors and
where and when theyll be teaching.
WATCHING SPORT
From sum and baseball to soccer and horse
racing, the Tokyos sports calendar is jam-
packed full of exciting events year round.
Sum is a fascinating, highly ritualised activity
steeped in Shint tradition. Perhaps sums
continuing claim on the national imagination
lies in its ancient origins and elaborate rites;
its the only traditional Japanese sport that
still has enough clout to draw big crowds and
dominate primetime TV.
can enjoy the Sum Museum (p125), next door to
the stadium. Displays include humungous
monial clothing. Unfortunately, there are no
English explanations, and during tourna-
ments the museum is open only to attending
ticket-holders.
RYGOKU KOKUGIKAN Map p126
%3623 5111; www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html; 1-
3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; admission 500-45,000;
hopening ceremonies 8.30am, ticket office 10am-
6pm; bJR Sbu or Toei edo Lines to Rygoku
197
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com

attended and can be especially exciting. horse racing being one of them. If youre itch-

lonelyplanet.com
ENGLISH CONVERSATION CAFS There are ticket booths on three sides of ing to take your chances, look up the Japan
the Big Egg; after purchasing your ticket, Racing Associations English guide online at
An excellent way to meet Japanese people is to stop by an English conversation caf, where you can chat with students navigate to the gate you want. http://japanracing.jp. Races are generally held
looking to brush up their language skills. The following list should get you started:
at weekends from 11am to 4pm and are a hot
Com Inn (; Map p102; %3794-7366; www.cominn-jp.com; admission men/women 3000/2000 all- destination for young couples on dates.
you-can-drink; 1-3-9 Minami-Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; bJR Ebisu, south exit) The longest-running and most established J-LEAGUE SOCCER
conversation caf in Tokyo, Com Inn holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that pack the house. Japan was already soccer crazy when the
World Cup came to Saitama and Yokohama
I KEIBAJ Map p62
Leafcup (; Map p56; %5856-7587; www.leafcup.com; admission men/women 3000/2000
(all-you-can-drink); 4-2-6 Iidabashi, Chiyoda-ku; bTozai Line to Iidabashi, exit A5; Nanboku, Yuurakucho or Toei- in 2002. Now its a chronic madness, and five
minutes of conversation with any 10-year- %3763-2151; 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa-ku;
Oedo lines to Iidabashi, exit A4 or JR Yamanote Line to Iidabashi, east exit) The most comfortable and attractive of general admission 100, reserved seats 500-2000;
the conversation cafs, Leafcup also holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that highlight different old in Tokyo about why they wanna grow
up to be like David Beckham should clear up bTokyo Monorail to i-Keibajmae
fun-filled themes. Each year from April to October, i Keibaj
any doubts you might have to the contrary.
Mickey House (Map p122; ; %3209-9686; www.mickeyhouse.jp; admission J-League games are generally played outside offers night-time Twinkle Races. The races
500 (with 1 drink); 2-14-4 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; bTozai Line to Takadanobaba, exit 6; JR Yamanote Line the city. If youd like to catch an international are lit by mercury lamps, whose diffused
to Takadanobaba,Waseda Exit) An excellent place for a beer and light conversation most nights of the week, Mickey match, try the National Stadium. light draws young couples out on hot
House really picks up on Friday and Saturday nights during international parties of their own. dates. Though the popularity of horse
racing has declined over the past decade,
NATIONAL STADIUM Map p110 some lucky record-breaker won over 13
Tokyos bash (sum wrestling tourna- well-ordered frenzy. Sitting in the cheap seats million from a mere 100 bet here in
SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT

ments) take place at this stadium in Janu-
ary, May and September. Unless youre
aiming for a big match at a weekend you
should be able to secure a ticket: bash
take place over 15 days. The best seats are
bought up by those in the know who also
happen to have the right connections, but
upstairs seats are usually available and
cost from 2300 to 7000. Nonreserved
seats at the back sell for 1500, and if you
dont mind standing, you can get in for
around 500. Tickets can be purchased
up to a month prior to the tournament or
you can simply turn up on the day of the
match. Its advisable to get there early,
as keen punters start queuing the night
before. Note that only one ticket is sold
per person, a clever device used to foil
scalpers. The stadium is adjacent to JR
Rygoku Station, on the north side of the
railway tracks. If you cant go in person,
NHK televises sum from 3.30pm daily
during tournaments.
BASEBALL
Baseball is Japans most popular sport and six
of Japans 12 pro-baseball teams are based in
Tokyo. A trip to one of the local ballparks is
truly a cultural (or perhaps a religious?) ex-
perience the crowd behaviour is completely
unlike what youre probably used to at home.
The home teams fans often turn up in match-
ing happi (half-length coats) and perform
intricate cheering rituals in perfect unison led
by special cheerleaders, one for each section,
who make a job out of whipping fans into a
198
will put you right in the middle of it. Kokuritsu Kygij; %3403-1151; Kasumi- May 2005.
Baseball season starts at the end of March gaokamachi, Shinjuku-ku; admission from 2000;
or the first week of April and runs until Oc- bJR Ch Line to Sendagaya (east exit)
tober. Tokyo Dome is probably the most ex- Completed in 1958 and used as one of TOKYO KEIBAJ off Map pp489
citing place to take in a game, though Jing the primary venues for the 1964 Olympics,
Stadium can make for a fun afternoon out National Stadium now hosts the annual Fuch Racecourse; %0423-633 141; 1-1 Hiyoshich,
when the weather is fair. Toyota Cup (November or December) and Fuch-shi; admission varies; bKei Line to
See also the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame (p59) other international soccer events. Fuchkeiba-Seimonmae (pedestrian overpass)
for some history of the sport in Japan. More popularly known as Fuch Racecourse,
Tokyo Keibajs 500m-long home straight is
JING BASEBALL STADIUM Map p110 HORSE RACING the longest in the country and can make for
There are two big racing tracks in the Tokyo exciting, win-by-a-nose finishes. This track
area, offering weekend gamblers a good chance is where most major and international races
Jing Kyjo; %3404-8999; 13 Kasumigaoka,
to wager (and lose) some money. Gambling is take place. Admission varies depending on
Shinjuku-ku; tickets from 1500; hgames start
6pm; bGinza Line to Gaienmae (north exit) illegal in Japan except in sanctioned contexts the popularity of the event.
Now home for the Yakult Swallows, Tokyos
number two team, Jing Baseball Stadium
was originally built to host the 1964 Olym-
pics. When not hosting Yakult Swallows
games, the baseball stadium is sometimes
used for high-profile Little League and
intercollegiate championships. You can
buy tickets from the booth in front of the
stadium; outfield tickets can cost as little
as 1500.
TOKYO DOME Map p56
Big Egg; %5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e;
1-3-61 Kraku, Bunky-ku; admission from 1500;
bJR Ch or JR Sbu Line to Suidbashi (west exit) Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
The Big Egg, as its affectionately known,
is the best place to catch a baseball game
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
in the city, as its the home turf of Japans only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
most popular baseball team, the Yomiuri everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Giants. Night games tend to be well-
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
199
 Lonely Planet Publications

Hotels & Hostels

Want more Sleeping recommendations than we could ever pack into this little
ol book? Craving more detail including extended reviews and photographs?
Want to read reviews by other travellers and be able to post your own? Just make
your way over to lonelyplanet.com/hotels and check out our thorough list of
independent reviews, then reserve your room simply and securely.

S LE E PI N G

Westin Hotel Tokyo (p211) Tokyos finest hotel, the

choice of royals and Hollywood celebs.
Park Hyatt Tokyo (p213) Skyscraping luxury with
stunning night views.
Ryokan Shigetsu (p209) Gorgeous traditional inn.
Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo (p209) Old-style
hospitality in Asakusa.
Kimi Ryokan (p216) A very friendly, authentic ryokan
experience for budget prices.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/[destination]

 Minshuku

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

S LE E PI N G Similar to ryokan, but generally simpler in
dcor and cheaper, are minshuku (like West-
ern B&Bs). These are private homes that
accept visitors and offer food, usually both
Tokyo has thousands of places to sleep, and not all of them will cost you an arm and a leg. breakfast and dinner. Minshuku in Tokyo
RYOKAN
But if youve come here on a budget, expect some noise, less space and a longer walk from the generally cost about 6000 to 8000 per per- Sukeroku no Yado Sadachiyo (p209)
train station. Check out Cheap Sleeps in Sanya (p209) for some sweet budget deals. If expense son (cash only), including two meals, making Sawanoya Ryokan (p208)
is not so much of an issue, choose from a myriad of decadent rooms many boast incredible these one of your better travel bargains. Few Kimi Ryokan (p216)
city views. Central neighbourhoods like Ginza, Shinjuku and Akasaka are ideal, with loads of minshuku owners speak English, but theyll
high-end options. welcome you warmly.
Though most of the accommodation in Tokyo is Western style, there are a few traditional inns
and hotels. For full definitions of each type of lodging, see below. Note that most Tokyo ryokan
Youth Hostels
Tokyos youth hostels are much like youth
(traditional Japanese inns) dont exactly fit the traditional mould found elsewhere in Japan. Ryokan hostels elsewhere: a bit noisy, not much at-
Rack rates are quoted in this chapter, but prices can vary drastically. Most business and high- For those who crave a really traditional Jap- mosphere and a mixture of dorms and pri-
end hotels offer discounts, often significant ones, for reservations made in advance via phone anese experience with tatami (woven-mat vate rooms. On the plus side, they are used
or internet; check their websites for seasonal deals. Rates at budget places usually remain as floor) rooms and futon instead of beds, the to foreigners and are cleaner than many of
quoted. Keep in mind that during Golden Week (29 April to 5 May) and other national holidays ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) have it. their overseas counterparts. A room in a typi-
(see p249 for details), rooms may be booked out or, if available, very expensive. Although the more exclusive establishments cal youth hostel is about 3200, cash only.
can charge upwards of 25,000, there are Membership is often not required.
ACCOMMODATION STYLES Love Hotels a number of relatively inexpensive ryokan
in Tokyo. These places are generally more
Love hotels are not always as naughty as they
Business Hotels sound, but they do have their fair share of accustomed to foreigners than their coun- Other Options
A common form of midrange accommoda- themed rooms ranging from Hello Kitty to terparts in more remote parts of Japan and The JNTO (Japan National Tourist Organi-
tion is the so-called business hotel usually African safari. Japanese couples use them for the rules tend to be a bit more relaxed as a zation; p255) can give you information about
as functional and economical as the name privacy and intimacy. They are distinguished result. The trade-off is that you dont usually several other lodging options in and around
SLEEPING ACCOMMODATION STYLES

SLEEPING LONGER-TERM RENTALS

would suggest. Geared to the lone traveller
on business, the typical Tokyo business-hotel
room will have pay TV and a tiny bathroom,
and cost between 7000 and 12,000. Most
accept credit cards, but you should always ask
when you check in. Some of the nicer business
hotels have large shared baths and saunas.
Capsule Hotels
Of course theyre small, but theyre roomy
enough to recline in, and each capsule is fitted
with a bed, reading light, TV and alarm clock.
Despite the rooms size, prices still range from
3500 to 5000; capsules are also cash only.
Most of their business comes from drunken
office workers who have missed the last train
home, but their novelty value attracts the odd
foreigner. Many capsule hotels have a well-
appointed bath area similar to a good local
sent (public bath).
Gaijin Houses
If youre a budget traveller planning on set-
tling in Tokyo, you might consider landing
first at a gaijin (foreigner) house while getting
your bearings. These are private dwellings that
have been partitioned into rooms or apart-
ments and rented out to gaijin. See opposite for
reputable agencies.
202
by discreet, hidden entrances so that patrons
can come and go anonymously. Posted out-
side love hotels are signs indicating the rates
for a one- or two-hour stay, referred to as
a kykei (literally rest), and for an over-
night stay, referred to as tomari. Overnight
rates are fairly reasonable (around 8000; no
credit cards accepted), but generally most
love hotels will not allow you to check in
for an overnight stay until around 10pm or
11pm.
Luxury Hotels
In the top-end bracket, you can expect to find
the amenities of deluxe hotels anywhere in the
world. Expect satellite TV beaming in CNN
and the BBC, high-speed internet access and
enough space to properly unwind. The staff
speak English, the rooms are spotless and
the service is impeccable. In addition, most
of Tokyos luxury hotels have several good
restaurants and bars, many of which offer
outstanding city views.
PRICE GUIDE
over 16,000 a night
6500 to 16,000 a night
under 6500 a night
get the strictly traditional experience, with
Japanese meals and the diurnal stowing away
of your futon.
Some ryokan offer rooms with private
baths, but the communal ones are often
designed with natural pools or a window
looking onto a garden. Bathing is communal,
but sexes are segregated. Make sure you can
differentiate between the bathroom signs for
men and women (although ryokan will often
have signs in English).
At traditional ryokan, dinner is usually laid
out in the guest rooms. Along with rice, the
meal usually includes standard dishes such
as miso soup, tsukemono (pickles), suno-
mono (vegetables in vinegar), zensai (hors
doeuvres), sashimi (fish either grilled or raw),
and perhaps tempura and a stew. Meals at
a ryokan can become flamboyant displays
of local cuisine or refined arrangements of
kaiseki (see p154 for more information). After
dinner, the dishes are cleared and your bed-
ding is prepared a futon is placed on the
tatami floor and a quilt put on top.
Although some ryokan will allow you to
pay by credit card, you should always ask at
check-in if you hope to do so. The ryokan
listed in this book are generally budget and
midrange; those wishing to stay in top-end
ryokan should inquire at the Japan National
Tourist Organization (JNTO; p255).
Tokyo, including shukub (staying on the
grounds of a temple), onsen (hot-spring re-
sorts) and converted farmhouses or kokumin-
shukusha (peoples lodges). It also has infor-
mation for travellers with special needs, such
as seniors or travellers with disabilities, and
those with children.
TAX
A 5% consumption tax applies to room rates
across all accommodation categories, with
the exception of gaijin houses (see opposite)
and some of the other budget options. On
high-end accommodation (generally rooms
costing over 16,000), a 3% local tax is also
added to the 10% to 15% service charge.
Prices quoted in this chapter are not inclu-
sive of these taxes. Finally, the Tokyo Met-
ropolitan Government now tacks on a small
per-person accommodation tax on all rooms
costing more than 10,000: 100 for rooms
costing up to 14,999 and 200 for rooms cost-
ing more than 15,000.
LONGER-TERM RENTALS
Renting an apartment in Tokyo can be a real
challenge expect a big deposit (often five
months rent) and an unwillingness to rent to
foreign tenants. The deposit usually consists
203
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
of a one-month finders fee for the real-estate
agency, the landlords reikin (key money a
gift that is usually two months rent), and a
deposit for the last month as well as the first
months rent. Rooms with no reikin can be
found, but check their age and distance from
the closest station.
The following are some English-speaking
real estate agents in Tokyo who specialise
in helping foreigners find rentals in gaijin
houses. Rents may be a bit higher through
these agencies because youre receiving the
apartment without the hefty deposit. If you
plan on staying in Japan for more than a year,
its worth paying the larger deposit to get a
bigger place with lower rent.
Kimi Information Center (Map p122; %3986-1604;
www.kimiwillbe.com; 8th fl, 2-42-3 Ikebukuro, Toshima-
ku; bIkebukuro, west exit) Run by the family owning
Kimi Ryokan (p216), Kimi Information Center can help you
to find an affordable apartment. Kimi charges an agency
fee equal to one months deposit. Locations tend to be
around working-class Ikebukuro.
Sakura House (Map p116;%5330-5250; www.sakura
house.com; 2nd fl, 7-2-6 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;
bShinjuku, east exit) Sakura House has extensive listings
SLEEPING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI
of apartments that welcome foreigners. They have staff
members who are fluent in English, Korean and Chinese,
and theyll escort you to visit apartments or shared hous-
ing. The minimum occupancy is one month.
Serviced Apartments
If youre in Tokyo for more than a week or
a month, serviced apartments can be more
comfortable and affordable than a hotel.
Look in the Japan Times or Metropolis. No
key money is required, but you generally pay
a one-month deposit. For nice digs in prime
neighbourhoods, rent may be 100,000 to
180,000 per week.
The following offer serviced apartments:
Oakwood Worldwide (%5786-7800; www.oakwood
.com) Oakwood Worldwide has nine serviced apartments
in central Tokyo that are ideal if youre looking for a stylish
place for at least a week. Daily rates start from 10,500.
BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE
For more accommodation reviews and recommenda-
tions by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online
booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. Youll find
the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all,
you can book online.
204
Mori Building (%6406-6654; www.moriliving.com) Mori
Building runs a number of landmark structures catering to
longer-term visitors, including the exclusive Roppongi Hills
Residences.
IMPERIAL PALACE &
MARUNOUCHI
At the doorstep of the Imperial Palace and
the heart of the Marunouchi business district,
the Tokyo Station area has a few fine hotels
and some good midrange places designed
for short-term business travellers. Though
currently undergoing a major facelift with
new shops and restaurants, it is quieter in the
evenings. The area provides quick access to
the rest of the city via the JR Yamanote Line,
as well as Kyoto and other destinations via
Shinkansen bullet trains.
PENINSULA HOTEL
Map pp523 Luxury Hotel
end, theyre decently priced for this neigh-
%6270-2288; http://tokyo.peninsula.com; 1-8-1
Yurakuch, Chiyoda-ku; r from 60,000; bJR
Yamanote Line to Yurakuch (Hibiya exit) or subway
to Hibiya (exits A6 & A7); is
This superb new deluxe high-rise brings
downtown decadence to dizzying heights.
One almost gets a feeling of guilty ex-
travagance when sprawling out in the vast
rooms (starting at 51 square metres), which
overlook the Imperial Palace and Hibiya
Moat and have floor-to-ceiling windows.
Latticed caramel woodwork, sumptuous
marble bathrooms and a dark central
atrium filled with luminous art unite in a
delicious symphony of modern design. The
Peninsula is a breath of fresh air on the
Marunouchi hotel scene and offers several
excellent wining and dining options as well
as a very decadent spa.
PALACE HOTEL Map pp523 Luxury Hotel
the Imperial Palace. Nightlife isnt far away,
%3211-5211; www.palacehotel.co.jp/english; 1-1-
1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from 25,200/30,450;
btemachi subway (exit C13b); i
Right by the Imperial Palace, the Palace
Hotel has an old-fashioned atmosphere and
sits on one of the most exclusive spots in
Tokyo. The rooms, numbering nearly 400,
are conventional but elegant, with large
bathrooms. There is also a soothing garden
of raked gravel.
MARUNOUCHI HOTEL Theres a whiff of pretension about the
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
Map pp523 Luxury Hotel New tani, but its justified, loaded as it is
with large, luxurious rooms (refurbished in
%3215-2151; www.marunouchi-hotel.co.jp; 2007), upscale restaurants, boutiques and
Oazo Bldg, 1-6-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from gift shops. This landmark has its own art
23,300/31,385; bTokyo, Marunouchi (north exit) museum and an immaculate 400-year-old
Located in the recently built Oazo Build-
ing opposite Tokyo Station, this swanky
garden (see p59 for more information).
business hotel deftly synthesises modern
conveniences with Japanese style. Shji
GRAND PRINCE HOTEL AKASAKA
Map p56 Luxury Hotel
(sliding rice-paper screens) over windows
and gorgeous inlaid wood furnishings ac- %3234-1111; www.princehotelsjapan.com; 1-2
cent simple, unfussy rooms. Kioi-ch, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from 27,500/34,000;
bGinza or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke,
YAESU TERMINAL HOTEL (exit 7) or Hanzmon, Namboku or Yrakuch Line
Map pp523 Business Hotel to Nagatach (exits 5, 7 & 9); i
This tower, designed by architect Tange
%3281-3771; www.yth.jp; 1-5-14 Yaesu, Ch-ku; Kenz to echo the shape of a Japanese
s/d 11,340/16,590; bTokyo, Yaesu (north exit) fan, has over 700 spacious rooms, with
This sleek little business hotel on cherry- most providing excellent views. The lobby
tree-lined Sakura-dri has contemporary is done up with marble and mirrors, while
lines and a minimalist look. Though room rooms are simple in design and large.
sizes are most definitely on the microscopic
TOKYO INTERNATIONAL HOSTEL
bourhood and very modern. Map p56 Youth Hostel
SLEEPING CENTRAL TOKYO
SAKURA HOTEL Map pp523 Hostel %3235-1107; www.tokyo-ih.jp; 1-1 Kagurakashi,
Shinjuku-ku; dm adult/child 3860/3360; bIida-
%3261-3939; www.sakura-hotel.co.jp; 2-21- bashi (west exit); i
4 Kanda-Jimbch, Chiyoda-ku; dm/s/d from These clean, well-managed dorm rooms have
3780/6090/8200; bMarunouchi, Toei Mita or some of the best night views in all of Tokyo,
Toei Shinjuku Line to Jimbch, exit A6; i looking west over the old outer moat of
The Sakura Hotel is a great budget option Edo Castle. The design is rather institutional
with a sociable atmosphere. Staff are bilin- (theres even a conference room), but this is
gual and helpful, and the rooms, though a model hostel outfitted with a cafeteria (for
basic, are comfortable and clean. Theres a breakfast and dinner), laundry and internet
24-hour caf, a laundry and internet access. access. Be sure to catch the sunset over one
of Japans most stunning budget views.
CENTRAL TOKYO
Central Tokyo is a much quieter base from GINZA
which to explore the city compared to hubsGinza and the recent revitalisation of nearby
on the Yamanote Line, and is especially worth- Shiodome offer some of Tokyos poshest ac-
while in spring when there are myriad cherry commodation, all with easy transport access.
trees in bloom along the moats surrounding Along with the ultraluxurious, however, are
some sleek, midrange hotels. Expect rates to be
with the old geisha district of Kagurazaka near higher than in the rest of the city Ginza real
Iidabashi and the salaryman pleasure zone of estate is some of the priciest on the planet.
Akasaka close to Nagatach.
HOTEL SEIY GINZA
HOTEL NEW TANI Map p56 Luxury Hotel Map p62 Luxury Hotel
%3265-1111; www.newotanihotels.com/tokyo; %3535-1111; www.seiyo-ginza.com; 1-11-2
4-1 Kioi-ch, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from 31,000/36,000; Ginza, Ch-ku; r 61,215-254,100; bYrakuch
bGinza or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke Line to Ginza-itchme (exit 7), or Ginza Line to
(Belle Vie exit); i Kybashi (exit 2)
205
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

The Hotel Seiy Ginza, which is part of GINZA NIKK HOTEL

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

the luxury Rosewood group and was
refurbished in 2001, resembles a rambling
mansion hosting several parties at once.
Each of the rooms here has a personal
butler (with 25 on staff altogether). The
rooms are cavernous, with a homey yet
tasteful dcor. For those of you requiring
rarefied isolation, the Seiy can be your
secret hideaway.
IMPERIAL HOTEL
Map p62 Luxury Hotel
%3504-1111; www.imperialhotel.co.jp;
1-1-1 Uchisaiwaich, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from
Map p62 Business Hotel
%3571-4911; www.ginza-nikko-hotel.com; 8-4-21
Ginza, Ch-ku; s/d from 13,960/27,920; bJR
Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Ginza
Line to Shimbashi (exit 5); i
Though this Ginza hotel has been around
for some 50 years, its looking fine and
bright after a thorough renovation. The
dcor is a cut above business hotel generic,
with commodious beds and full bathtubs.
SHIODOME
Revitalised Shiodome, a sliver of slick devel-
ALTERNATIVES TO SLEEPING
If youve missed the last train back to your hotel, that 3000 in your pocket might be better spent staying out all night
than on a taxi ride home. Happily, nocturnal Tokyo has options for insomniacs. Theres always a nearby manga (comic
book) caf. Full-night rates are a bargain, comparable to those at capsule hotels. For around 1000, you can while away
the wee hours watching DVDs, reading manga, surfing the internet (around six hours free access) and having a bite to
eat (including free drinks) or napping in your lounge chair.
Caf J Net New New (Map p106; %5458-5935; Saito Bldg, 7th fl, 34-5 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; h24hr; bJR
Yamanote Line to Shibuya, Hachik exit)
Manga Hiroba (; Map pp967; %3497-1751; Shuwa Roppongi Bldg, 2nd fl, 3-14-12
Roppongi, Minato-ku; h24hr; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi, exit 3)
Manga@Caf Gera Gera (caf ; Map p116; %3204-8532;
1-27-9 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; h24hr; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, east exit).

31,500/36,750; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita
Line to Hibiya (exit A13); i
The Imperial Hotels present building is
the successor to Frank Lloyd Wrights
1923 masterpiece, and small tributes
to Wright in the form of a chair or a
modernist motif adorn the lobby. Large
rooms on the newest Imperial floor have
been updated with features such as
large-screen plasma TVs and high-speed
SLEEPING SHIODOME
opment between Shimbashi and Hama Riky
Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden), pro-
vides an upscale, high-rise accommodation
alternative to the smaller hotels of Ginza,
and its quieter in the evenings. Some rooms
have great night-time views of Tokyo Bay and
Rainbow Bridge.
CONRAD HOTEL Map p65 Luxury Hotel
of antique manuscripts (see p143 for more
AKIHABARA & KANDA
Kanda is Tokyo at its most drab, but it does
have some good midrange bargains because
of the many salarymen thronging here. Its
also a stones throw from the electronics and
pop culture mecca of Akihabara. Nearby are
some of Tokyos finest traditional restaurants
(see p160 for listings) and Jimbchs millions
and institutional but fine for crashing.
PRESSO INN KANDA
Map p68 Business Hotel
%3252-0202; www.presso-inn.com; 2-8 Kanda-
Tach, Chiyoda-ku; s/d 7770/13,650; bJR Yaman-
ote Line or Ch Line to Kanda (west exit); i
The Presso Inn chain is very much a busi-
nesspersons hotel, with purely functional
dcor and few frills rooms are cramped

SLEEPING AKIHABARA & KANDA

internet.
MERCURE HOTEL GINZA TOKYO
Map p62 Luxury Hotel
Line to Shiodome
%4335-1111; www.mercure.com; 2-9-4 Ginza,
Ch-ku; s/d from 18,375/24,150; bYrakuch
Line to Ginza-itchme (exit 11); i
This refreshingly designed little boutique
hotel has chinoiserie prints, floral dcor,
snazzy red doors and leather chairs. A
short walk from the department stores, its
popular with ladies from out of town who
come in for Ginza shopping expeditions,
but is equally suited to business travellers
and tourists.
MITSUI URBAN HOTEL GINZA
Map p62
Business Hotel
%3527-4131; www.granvista.co.jp; 8-6-15 Ginza,
Ch-ku; s/d from 14,500/25,000; bJR Yamanote
Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Ginza Line to
Shimbashi (exit 3); i
Renovated in 2007, the Mitsui Urbans
rooms are presented in mahogany and
caramel tones, with flat-screen TVs ac-
centing the urban dcor. Two floors of
restaurants will cover you from breakfast
to nightcap.
206
%6388-8000; www.conradtokyo.co.jp; 1-
9-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from
52,000/57,000; bJR Yamanote, Ginza or Toei
Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (Shiodome exit) or edo
One of the gigantic, glittery gems com-
prising the new Shiodome development
adjacent to Hama Riky Onshi-teien, the
Conrad Hotel is definitely a new contender
for the attentions of upscale travellers
looking for that central, supersophisticated
base in Tokyo. The garden or city views are
equally spectacular, as are the varnished
hardwood interiors and floor-to-ceiling
glassed-in bathrooms.
HOTEL VILLA FONTAINE SHIODOME
Map p65 Business Hotel
%5339-1200; www.hvf.jp/eng/; 1-9-2 Higashi-
Shimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from 10,000/14,000;
bJR Yamanote, Ginza or Toei Asakusa Line to Shim-
bashi (Shiodome exit) or edo Line to Shiodome; i
Cone-shaped lanterns light the high-
ceilinged black marble lobby. Sculptural
red blobs and flame-themed art on the
walls lead to upscale rooms with internet,
TV and partial views of Hama Riky Onshi-
teien. This is an excellent deal in one of
Tokyos newest neighbourhoods.
information).
YAMA-NO-UE (HILLTOP) HOTEL
Map p68 Luxury Hotel
Map p68
%3293-2311; www.yamanoue-hotel.co.jp;
1-1 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from
17,850/25,200; bJR Ch or JR Sbu Line to
Ochanomizu (Ochanomizu exit)
This grand old place from the 1930s ex-
udes personality and charm, with antique
wooden furniture and a wainscotted
lounge. Mishima Yukio wrote his last few
novels here. The older rooms in the main
building come with antique writing desks
and overstuffed chairs.
HOTEL MY STAYS OCHANOMIZU
Map p68
Business Hotel
%5289-3939; www.mystays.jp/ochanomizu/, in
Japanese; 2-10-6 Kanda Awajich, Chiyoda-ku; s/d
from 10,000/13,000; bJR Ch or JR Sbu Line to
Ochanomizu (Hijiribashi exit)
Reopened in 2007, this stylish business hotel
stands out for its bold brown-and-white
colour scheme, reasonable prices and extras
like large Simmons beds. The Family Mart
and modern European caf OAKS on the
ground floor are additional conveniences.
There is a complimentary breakfast of
croissants baked on site.
NEW CENTRAL HOTEL
Business Hotel
%3256-2171; www.pelican.co.jp/newcentral
hotel/, in Japanese; 2-7-2 Kanda-Tach, Chiyoda-ku;
s/d 7350/7875; bJR Yamanote Line to Kanda,
west exit
The New Central may be as generic as its
salaryman clientele, but the homey com-
munal bath facilities (separate for men
and women) make it stand out. The loca-
tion on a quiet side street makes this a
worthwhile base.
UENO
Though it may be lacking the full-bore visual
phantasmagoria and throbbing nightlife of
Shinjuku and Shibuya, Ueno is a good base
because of the Keisei Skyliner express trains
running to Narita airport and the happy
presence of Ueno Zoo (Ueno Dbutsu-en),
Ueno-ken (park), an expansive smorgas-
bord of top-class museums, abundant cherry
trees and a pond with paddleboats. Yanaka,
which is perfect for temple walks, beckons
to the north.
207
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

HOTEL PARKSIDE RYOKAN KATSUTAR

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Map p72 Business Hotel
%3836-5711; www.parkside.co.jp; 2-11-18 Ueno,
Tait-ku; Western-style s/d from 9200/14,000,
Japanese-style r from 18,000; bUeno (Shinobazu
exit)
This hotel offers some of the best midrange
accommodation in Ueno, as well as views
of the gigantic lily pads on Shinobazu
Pond. Choose either a Western or Japanese
room, but make sure its above the 4th
floor for the best views. The doubles were
remodelled in 2005.
UENO FIRST CITY HOTEL
Map p72 Business Hotel
%3822-2251; www.sawanoya.com; 2-3-11
%3831-8215; www.uenocity-hotel.com; 1-14-8
Ueno, Tait-ku; s/d from 8400/13,650; bChiyoda
Line to Yushima (exit 4)
Unlike most hotels, the tatami rooms here
are the same price as the Western rooms.
Rooms of both types are functional and
clean. Look for a charming little Shint
shrine by the entrance dedicated to the
SLEEPING ASAKUSA
Map p72 Ryokan
Sanya is an old neighbourhood north of Asakusa notorious for its down-and-out day labourers. The 2002 Japan-Korea
%3821-9808; www.katsutaro.com; 4-16-8 Ikeno-
hata, Tait-ku; s/d 5200/8400; bChiyoda Line to
Nezu (exit 2); i
This older, more homey sister inn to Ry-
okan Katsutar Annex has a more quiet
and family-like atmosphere, with very
affable managers. Though the building
may be aged, the seven tatami rooms here
have been renovated without ruining the
inns character.
SAWANOYA RYOKAN
Map p72 Ryokan
Hotel New Ky (; Map pp489; %3873-0343; www.newkoyo.com; 2-26-13 Ni-
Yanaka, Tait-ku; s/d from 5040/10,080; bChi
yoda Line to Nezu (exit 1); i
The Sawanoya is a budget gem in quiet
Yanaka, with very friendly staff and all the
traditional hospitality you would expect
of a ryokan, even origami paper cranes
perched on your futon pillow in welcome.
The shared cypress and earthenware baths
CHEAP SLEEPS IN SANYA
World Cup saw many budget travellers seeking accommodation here, and now theres a wealth of cheap places to bunk.
However, most rooms are barely large enough to stretch out in.
Hotel Accela (; Map pp489; %3871-5568; www.accela.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-40-12 Ni-
honzutsumi, Tait-ku; r 3350-4800; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) This hotel, newly opened in 2007,
is a tad institutional, but friendly and bright, with three-tatami-mat rooms, coin-operated showers and laundry, and
a spacious shared bath. Its just past Namidabashi Crossing on the right.
Juyoh Hotel (; Map pp489; %3875-5362; www.juyoh.co.jp; 2-15-3 Kiyokawa, Tait-ku; s/d
3200/6400; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) The three tiny doubles and numerous three-tatami-mat
singles fill up fast at this hospitable little spot. For reservations and directions, check the excellent website.
Hotel New Azuma (; Map pp489; %6802-0716; www.gcc-web.net/azuma; 2-38-3
Kiyokawa, Tait-ku; r 2900-3100; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) Warm and quieter than other budget
spots, the New Azuma has small tatami rooms, free internet access, laundry facilities and a shared bath and kitchen.
honzutsumi, Tait-ku; r 2500-4800; bHibiya Line to Minowa, exit 3) Very friendly and featuring some of Tokyos
cheapest rooms, the New Koyo has rooms like the golden, minute Samurai Suite, about the size of two tatami mats,
and a large shared bath.
Tokyo Backpackers (; Map pp489; %3871-2789; www.tokyo-backpackers.jp;
2-2-2 Nihonzutsumi, Tait-ku; d 2100; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) Even though it was built in
2006, Tokyo Backpackers is still dirt-cheap. Modern, clean dorm rooms have six wooden bunk beds, and there is free
internet and a ladies-only floor. The entire shuts from 11am-4pm daily for cleaning.

god Inari.
SUIGETSU HOTEL GAI-S
Map p72 Business Hotel
Map p72
%3822-4611; www.ohgai.co.jp; 3-3-21 Ikenohata,
Tait-ku; Western-style s/d 7980/11,550, Japanese-
style r from 18,000; bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit
2); i
Japanese literary great Mori gai lived here
in the late 1880s, and part of his lovely
tiled wooden home still fronts the peaceful
interior garden. Skip the cramped standard
singles and go for the deluxe version in-
stead, or sprawl out on tatami. The cypress
baths are open to visitors for 1500.
RYOKAN KATSUTAR ANNEX
Map p72 Ryokan
ASAKUSA
%3828-2500; www.katsutaro.com; 3-8-4 Yanaka,
Tait-ku; s/d 6300/10,500; bChiyoda Line to
Sendagi (exit 2); i
Opened in 2001, this spotless, efficient
establishment seems more modern hotel
than traditional ryokan. Though far from
Ueno Station, its ideal for exploring the
old Yanaka district. The 17 tatami rooms,
while rather small, have attached Western
bathrooms.
are the perfect balm after a long day of
walking.
SUZUKI RYOKAN
Ryokan %3847-1111; www.viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/eng
lish; 3-17-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku; Western-style
%3821-4944; www.itcj.jp; 7-15-23 Yanaka, Tait-
ku; s without bath from 3500, d with bath 8000;
bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori (south exit)
www.itcj.jp
This traditional but quirky house next to
Yanaka Cemetery is weirdly charming, with
green AstroTurf-like carpets and creaky
stairs. Make reservations through the Wel-
come Inn Reservation Center (www.itcj.k),
unless you speak enough Japanese to call
the ryokan yourself.
If you are in Tokyo only for a short visit or
if you want a glimpse of old Japan, Asakusa
is a charming, laid-back anachronism with
some good budget options. Though not the
geographical centre of Tokyo, it is the heart
of the old Shitamachi downtown quarter,
which was depicted in the millions of ukiyo-e
(wood-block prints) that were pressed here.
You will also find two wonderful, classic ry-
okan near Sens-ji.
ASAKUSA VIEW HOTEL
Map p86 Luxury Hotel
s/d from 15,000/29,400; bTsukuba Express Line
to Asakusa (hotel exit) or Ginza Line to Tawara-
machi (exit 3);s
If youre not into ryokan, the Asakusa View
is the ritziest Western-style hotel around.
From the lacquer-patterned elevator walls
to the cypress and granite baths, the hotel
is lavishly designed. While the spacious
rooms arent striking, large windows over-
look Sens-ji.
SUKEROKU NO YADO SADACHIYO
Map p86
%3842-6431; www.sadachiyo.co.jp; 2-20-1
Asakusa, Tait-ku; s/d 14,000/19,000; bGinza or
Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 1), or Tsukuba
Express Line to Asakusa (exit 1)
This stunning ryokan virtually transports its
guests to old Edo. Gorgeously maintained
tatami rooms are spacious for two people,
and all come with modern, Western-style
bathrooms. Splurge on an exquisite meal
here, and make time for the o-furo (tradi-
SLEEPING ASAKUSA
tional baths), one made of fragrant Japa-
nese cypress and the other of black marble.
Look for the rickshaw parked outside.
RYOKAN SHIGETSU Map p86 Ryokan
%3843-2345; www.shigetsu.com; 1-31-11
Asakusa, Tait-ku; Western-style r 7665-14,700,
Japanese-style s/d 9450/16,800; bToei Asakusa
or Toei edo Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Tsukuba
Express to Asakusa (exit 4)
South of Sens-ji, this spotless and atmos-
pheric ryokan has mostly Japanese-style
rooms. The entire inn is immaculate, with
carpeted entrance halls and shji-screened
doors and windows. Absolutely required is
taking at least one bath here.
Ryokan
CAPSULE HOTEL RIVERSIDE
Map p86 Capsule Hotel
%3844-1155; www.asakusa-capsule.jp; 2-20-4
Kaminarimon, Tait-ku; capsules 3000; bGinza
or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6)
The very clean Riverside sells an encap-
sulated nights sleep right by the river.
Unlike most capsule hotels, it accepts
both women and men, with the 8th floor
reserved for female guests only.

208 209
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
TOKYO RYOKAN Map p86
Ryokan
%090-8879-3599; www.tokyoryokan.com;
2-4-8 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku; per person 3000;
bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); i
This tidy little inn, opened in 2006, has
only three tatami rooms but tons of charm.
There are touches of calligraphy, attractive
woodwork and sliding screens. This is an
authentic ryokan experience on the cheap.
SAKURA HOSTEL Map p86 Hostel
lived-in, the 1960s dcor and low-lying
%3847-8111; www.sakura-hostel.co.jp; 2-24-2
Asakusa, Tait-ku; dm/tw 2940/8295; bTsukuba
Express Line to Asakusa (exit A1); i
Billed as the largest in Tokyo, this new
hostel in a modern, comfortable building
has helpful staff and a great location near
Sens-ji. Rooms with wooden bunks over-
look the aged Hanayashiki amusement park.
Theres no curfew, breakfast is only 315
and major credit cards are accepted. Check
out the old-time shopping arcade behind it.
KS HOUSE Map p86 Hostel
SLEEPING AKASAKA
(exit 3); is
%5833-0555; http://kshouse.jp; 3-20-10 Kuramae,
Tait-ku; dm/d 2800/3400; bToei edo or Tei
Asakusa Line to Kuramae (exits A2 & A6); i
This is a homey, modern hostel that opened
in 2006, quickly becoming a backpacker
favourite. Just steps from the Sumida River
and Sens-ji, Ks feels more like someones
apartment, with comfy sofas in the living
room and a tatami common space.
KHAOSAN GUESTHOUSE
Map p86 Hostel
2-14-14 Akasaka, Minato-ku; s/d 15,750/19,950;
%3842-8286; www.khaosan-tokyo.com; 2-1-5 Ka-
minarimon, Tait-ku; dm/tw 2200/5000; bGinza
or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exits 4 & A2b); i
If youre visiting during the summer fire-
works season in late July, this comfy hos-
tels rooftop terrace is a front-row seat for
the popular river spectacle. But youll get a
warm welcome at all times of the year here,
one of the cheapest spots in central Tokyo.
AKASAKA
Who knows how many behind-the-scenes
political deals have been made in the hushed
rooms of Akasakas luxury hotels. This neigh-
bourhood is pretty exclusive and geared to
210
salarymen, though youll see a few functional, The Asia Center covers the basics of a busi-
but not outstanding, options in the midrange ness hotel the dcor is generic and forget-
bracket listed here. table but the rooms are decently sized and
staff are old hands at helping foreign visitors.
HOTEL KURA Map p92 Luxury Hotel
%3582-0111; http://tokyo.okura.com; 2-10-4 ROPPONGI
With its high concentration of foreigners and
Toranomon, Minato-ku; s/d from 34,125/42,000;
bGinza Line to Toranomon (exit 3); i party people of all stripes, Roppongi is hardly
The kura is an old-fashioned, elegant typical of Tokyo. Its great for clubbing and
standby and the meeting place of Japans bar hopping, but the area is a bit of a human
political and business elite. Lovely and zoo and accommodation is relatively pricey.
But there are a few excellent midrange ho- 9500/12,000; bNamboku Line to Roppongi
architecture are matched by personable tels handily placed close to Roppongi Cross-
staff. The beautiful Japanese garden and ing, in addition to the more upscale choices
top-notch restaurants complete the nearby.
picture.
GRAND HYATT TOKYO
ANA INTERCONTINENTAL TOKYO Map pp967 Luxury Hotel
Map p92 Luxury Hotel close enough to Roppongis centre to expe-
ANA %4333-1234; www.grandhyatttokyo.com; 6-10-3 rience its madness, but far enough away for
Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from 50,400/55,650;
%3505-1111; www.anaintercontinental bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits 1c
& 3); is
-tokyo.jp; 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku; s/d from
22,100/36,750; bGinza Line to Tameike-sann, Architecturally open and bright despite its
somewhat labyrinthine layout, the Grand
(exit 13), or Namboku Line to Roppongi-itchme
Hyatt is warmly, gorgeously chic. Smooth
A short walk from Roppongi, the plush mahogany and natural fabrics give an
37-storey ANA Intercontinental has large, organic flavour to the rooms, while its
gorgeously designed rooms with LCD Roppongi Hills location imbues it with
screens and fantastic night views. With an vibrant energy. Even the bathrooms feature
outdoor pool, a small gym and an excellent rainshower fixtures and rough-cut stone,
business centre, this remains a sleek and continuing a nature-in-architecture motif.
sophisticated choice.
HOTEL IBIS Map pp967 Business Hotel
HOTEL AVANSHELL AKASAKA Mita, Meguro-ku; r from 57,750; bJR Yamanote
Map p92 Business Hotel %3403-4411; www.ibis-hotel.com; 7-14-4 Roppongi,
Minato-ku; s/d from 13,382/16,285; bHibiya or Toei The remodelled Westin is one of the finest
%3568-3456; www.avanshell.com, in Japanese; edo Line to Roppongi (exit 4a); i
Ideally placed for those who want to be celebs and business moguls from around
bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 2 & 5) close to Roppongi nightlife, the Ibis is a
The rooms in this beautifully designed 2004 comfortable spot to settle in after a night
high-rise are laid out under themes such as of debauchery. The singles are somewhat
zen and primo, with zippy dcor ranging cramped, so go for the semi-doubles
from black leather couches and puffy white (16,023). Lighter sleepers should request a
bedspreads to cool green tatami spaces. Its quiet room not facing the back.
a visually appealing cut above most busi-
ness hotels. ARCA TORRE Map pp967 Business Hotel
ASIA CENTER OF JAPAN
Map p92 Business Hotel
%3404-5111; www.arktower.co.jp/arcatorre
/en/; 6-1-23 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from
11,550/14,700; bHibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi (exit 3)
%3402-6111; www.asiacenter.or.jp; 8-10-32 Aka-
saka, Minato-ku; s/d from 8200/10,800; bGinza, Steps away from the Almond caf, Rop-
Hanzmon or Toei edo Line to Aoyama-itchme pongis best-known meeting spot, the cosy
(exit 4); i Arca Torre is made for hard partiers and
heavy sleepers. The room dcor is simple
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
and beds are on the hard side, but even
standard singles are furnished with semi-
double beds (which are wider than normal
single beds).
VILLA FONTAINE ROPPONGI ANNEX
Map pp967 Business Hotel
%3560-5550; www.hvf.jp/eng/roppongi_annex
.php; 3-2-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from
Ichme (exit 1) or Hibiya or Toei edo Line to
Roppongi (exit 5)
Stylish, modern and reasonably priced, the
new Roppongi Annex offers 140cm-wide
beds, a complimentary buffet breakfast and
free LAN access if youre lugging a PC. Its
a quiet sleep.
EBISU
Just up the JR Yamanote Line from Shibuya,
SLEEPING ROPPONGI
Ebisu is a quieter neighbourhood that lacks
the flair of the larger, neon-fringed hubs, but it
still draws crowds for its pubs, restaurants and
the Ebisu Garden Place shopping complex.
WESTIN HOTEL TOKYO
Map p102 Luxury Hotel
%5423-7000; www.westin-tokyo.co.jp/; 1-4-1
Line to Ebisu (Atr exit); i
hotels in Japan, and plays host to royals,
the world. Rooms are opulent but tasteful,
with a lovely, laid-back European panache,
and the clientele is grown-up but hip. The
hotels Spa Parisien is a large, sumptuous
sanctuary that can quickly melt all your
stress. From the station, take the Skywalk to
Ebisu Garden Place and head towards the
road round back.
SHIBUYA
Clustered around heavily crowded Shibuya
Station and the streets spoking away from
it are a variety of great midrange and high-
end hotels. Naturally enough, its still the
neighbourhood where visiting rock stars put
211
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
up camp after a big show at NHK Hall or a
smaller gig at one of Shibuyas myriad live-
music houses.
CERULEAN TOWER TKY HOTEL
Map p106 Luxury Hotel
Map p106
%3476-3000; www.ceruleantower-hotel.com
/en/; 26-1 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
30,607/41,580, Japanese-style s/d 75,075/77,385;
bShibuya (south exit)
Sprawl out on the huge beds and drink
deeply of the big views, because theres
room to breathe in these enormous rooms.
The sleek lobby looks out on a charming
rock garden, an organic complement to the
sleek modern aesthetic. Quality n (dance-
drama) occasionally takes place at the
in-house theatre, and jazz club JZ Brat has
lots of live shows (p189).
EXCEL TOKYU HOTEL
Map p106 Luxury Hotel
13,960/19,635; bShibuya (Hachik exit); i
%5457-0109; www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com
/en/; 1-12-2 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
SLEEPING SHIBUYA
24,255/34,650; bShibuya, exit for Shibuya Mark
City; i
This tower, right beside Shibuya Station,
boasts excellent night views of Tokyo.
Singles are spacious if bland, but at least
youre right on top of the action. Theres
a very comfortable high-ceilinged lounge
here, as well as 25th-floor restaurants with
terrific skyline panoramas.
ARIMAX HOTEL Map p106 Luxury Hotel
south exit); i
%5454-1122; www.arimaxhotelshibuya.co.jp,
in Japanese; 11-15 Kamiyamach, Shibuya-ku; s/d
from 22,145/27,920; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
This plush little corner of European pomp is
on a quiet shopping street. Neoclassical fur-
nishings arranged in the lobby and its 23-
room scale create its intimate atmosphere.
Check out the wainscotted, old-school bar,
perfect for a Scotch after a long day.
CRESTON HOTEL Map p106 Business Hotel
Japanese; 1-1 Maruyamach, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
%3481-5800; www.crestonhotel.co.jp/shibuya/, in
Japanese; 10-8 Kamiyamach, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
15,115/22,145; bShibuya (Hachik exit)
Unassumingly chic and central to Shibuya
without being in the middle of the party
scene, the Creston has a laid-back, classy
212
ambience plus an excellent tofu restau-
rant. Its in an alley that wont get much
pedestrian traffic but gives easy access to
Shibuyas nightlife.
SHIBUYA TKY INN
Business Hotel
%3797-5677; www.kodomono-shiro.or.jp/english
%3498-0109; www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/en/; 1-24-
10 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from 14,910/23,100;
bShibuya (east exit); i
This chain hotel has some style thanks to
recent renovation, with clean lines and
sliding window screens in primary shades.
Spacious singles are a superb deal, and
come with a modern work desk and a flat-
screen TV.
SHIBUYA TBU HOTEL
Map p106 Business Hotel
CAPSULE LAND SHIBUYA
%3476-0111; www.tobuhotel.co.jp/shibuya, in
Japanese; 3-1 Udagawach, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
%3464-1777; www.capsule-land.com/shibuya/
Roll into the smooth marble and wood-
trimmed lobby to be greeted by a more
airy, stylish atmosphere than at average
business hotels. Its worth spending more
for the nicer singles, which have bigger,
more comfortable semi-double beds.
HOTEL METS SHIBUYA
Map p106 Business Hotel
%3409-0011; www.hotelmets.jp/shibuya; 3-29-
17 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from 11,000/18,000,
wheelchair-accessible r 19,000; bShibuya (new
full-bore hyper-Japan experience, stay in this
Superconvenient and squarely comfortable,
the Hotel Mets is inside Shibuya Stations
quiet new south exit. Its worth laying out
the extra 500 for a roomier deluxe single.
Rates include free broadband internet and
the rarity of a free buffet breakfast.
SHIBUYA CITY HOTEL
Map p106 Business Hotel
PARK HYATT TOKYO
%5489-1010; www.shibuya-city-hotel.com, in
9450/18,900, wheelchair-accessible r 14,800;
bShibuya (Hachik exit);
This place is in the Love Hotel district,
where couples seek intimacy, but its not
seedy. Its a short downhill roll from loads
of good live-music venues and clubs. It
has spacious but simple rooms, a superb Views are stunning, day and night, and
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
location and even a tricked-out wheelchair- appear to be part of another world from
friendly room. these serene heights. Dignified but relaxed,
the stylishly understated rooms are done in
NATIONAL CHILDRENS CASTLE naturally finished wood, fabric and marble.
HOTEL Map p110 Business Hotel Staff are gracefully, discretely attentive and
the restaurants are some of Tokyos best
check out the stunning views from the top-
/hotel; 5-53-1 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; Western- level New York Grill.
style s/d 7455/11,340, Japanese-style r from
31,500; bShibuya (east exit), or Ginza Line to HYATT REGENCY TOKYO
Omotesand (exit B2); is Map p116 Luxury Hotel
Though you may be disappointed to learn
that its not actually a castle, this small, %3348-1234; www.hyattregencytokyo.com;
uber-child-friendly hotel is perfect for fami- 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from
lies. Rooms are spiffy and clean, with fine 26,670/29,820; bToei edo Line to Tochmae
views. The castle itself is a paradise of play, (exits A7 & C4); is
with art projects, a swimming pool, puppet This marble behemoth holds its own as one
shows and endless amusements (see p71). of Shinjukus best high-end options. Always
housing a healthy population of interna-
tional businesspeople, the Hyatt Regency
Map p106 Capsule Hotel has swank, new Regency Club rooms and
lounges. Other rooms are being renovated,
but all offer excellent views of Shinjuku
sinfo.html, in Japanese; 1-19-14 Dgenzaka, and, if youre lucky, Mt Fuji.
Shibuya-ku; capsules from 3700; bShibuya
SLEEPING SHINJUKU
(Hachik exit) KEI PLAZA HOTEL
This is a standard capsule hotel for men Map p116 Luxury Hotel
only perched atop Dgenzaka hill. Extras
include large shared baths, massage chairs, %3344-0111; www.keioplaza.com; 2-2-1 Nishi-
laundry machines and coin lockers. Its Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; Western-style s/d from
a clean, well-run place, and major credit 22,000/26,000, Japanese ste from 80,000;
cards are accepted. bToei edo Line to Tochmae (exit B1); is
The 47-storey Kei Plaza has a mix of
remodelled and older rooms. Updated ones
SHINJUKU
If you have only a day in Tokyo and want the
feature the cleaner lines of more modern
luxury hotels, but all have excellent city
views. With a helpful business centre and
nonstop whirlwind of neon, crowds, pachinko free high-speed internet in every room, it
parlours and hostess clubs. East and west also caters to busy travellers.
Shinjuku are different worlds when it comes
to accommodation. The west has the lions HILTON TOKYO
share of luxury hotels, while the east generally Map p116 Luxury Hotel
offers the better deal and the more central
location. Capsule hotels and manga cafs (p207) %3344-5111; www.hilton.com; 6-6-2 Nishi-
provide alternative accommodation. Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; r from 19,000; bMaru-
nouchi Line to Nishi-Shinjuku (exit C8), or Toei edo
Line to Tochmae (exit C8); is
Map p116 Luxury Hotel The Hilton covers all the bases. Comforts
like firm mattresses and full-sized bathtubs
%5322-1234; http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com; are complemented by aesthetically pleas-
3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; r/ste from ing elements like shji over the windows. A
55,650/68,250; bToei edo Line to Tochmae warren of shops, restaurants and bars lies
(exit A4) downstairs, and stressed-out professionals
The setting will look familiar, as it was the can work it off in the indoor heated pool,
backdrop for the film Lost in Translation. tennis courts or gym.
213
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

SHINJUKU PRINCE HOTEL are a steal, and the regular rooms, al-

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Map p116 Luxury Hotel
%3205-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp
/shinjuku-e; 1-30-1 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; s/d
from 18,500/32,400; bShinjuku (west exit); i
Right by Shinjuku Station and the
Kabukich nightlife, this towering wedge
has a location that cant be beat and snazzy
rooms in mahogany and white that were
renovated in 2006. Dont let the faded
lobby throw you ask for an upper-floor
room and enjoy some of the best views in
the city.
HOTEL CENTURY SOUTHERN TOWER
Map p116 Business Hotel
%5354-0111; www.southerntower.co.jp
/english; 2-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
16,000/24,000; bShinjuku (south & southern
terrace exits); i
This is one of the best deals for accom-
modation in Shinjuku. With winter views
of Mt Fuji possible from one side and the
green space of Shinjuku-gyen on the
SLEEPING IKEBUKURO
though staid and small, are comfortable.
Though the bulk of Tokyos accommodation is located in the central neighbourhoods weve listed, those looking to get
CITY HOTEL LONESTAR
Map p116 Business Hotel
%3356-6511; www.thehotel.co.jp/en/lornstar/; 2-
12-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from 7350/9450;
bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-
sanchme (exit C8); i
The City Hotel Lonestar is a friendly, up-
dated place to bunk with rooms that are
small but cheery. In the heart of Tokyos
gay district, it is also known as the queer-
est lodging in the city. A basic continental
breakfast is laid out in the mornings free
of charge.
and laundry facilities. This gem is run by the same people who established the more down-market New Koyo (p209).
TOKYO BUSINESS HOTEL
Map p116 Business Hotel
nagawa-ku; s/d from 4900/8600; bJR Yamanote Line to Gotanda, east exit) This sweet, seven-room ryokan gets a
%3356-4605; 6-3-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s with
shared bathroom from 5460, d with bathroom
from 12,810; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-
gyenmae (exit 1)
This no-frills hotel off Meiji-dri is an older
WORTH THE TRIP
a bit further afield might seek out these options.
Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-s ( ; Map pp489; %3943-2222; www
.fourseasons.com/tokyo/; 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunky-ku; s/d from 50,000/55,000; bYrakuch Line to Edoga-
wabashi, exit 1a) Ridiculously opulent with Japanese antiques and a European feel, the Four Seasons Chinzan-s is
built on the grounds of a Meiji-era ornamental garden. It abuts the Kanda-gawa canal, which is very pleasant during
cherry blossom season.
Hotel Bellclassic (; Map pp489; %5950-1200; www.hotel-bellclassic.co.jp;
3-36-6 Minami-tsuka, Toshima-ku; s/d 14,700/23,100; bJR Yamanote Line to tsuka, south exit) One stop from
Ikebukuro, this churchy-looking business hotel has immaculate, plain-vanilla rooms that are a smidge wider than
those at standard business hotels. Room rates go down in low season.
Andon Ryokan (; Map pp489; %3873-8611; www.andon.co.jp; 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi, Tait-ku; r per
person 8190; bHibiya Line to Minowa, exit 3; i) Fabulously designed in form and function, the minimalist and mod-
ern Andon Ryokan has tiny but immaculate tatami rooms. Pluses include free internet access, DVD players, cheap breakfasts
Ryokan Sansuis (; Map pp489; %3441-7475; www.sansuiso.net; 2-9-5 Higashi-Gotanda, Shi-
bit of rail noise from the JR tracks nearby, but with that comes the experience of staying in a real Japanese home.
CROWNE PLAZA METROPOLITAN bIkebukuro (west exit), or Yrakuch Line to
HOTEL Map p122 Luxury Hotel Ikebukuro (exit C5); i

other, this monolith is very reasonably
priced for its central location.
HOTEL SUNLITE SHINJUKU
Map p116 Business Hotel
(6300).
%3356-0391; www.sunlite.co.jp/top-e.htm; 5-15-
8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from 8715/12,075;
bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-
sanchme (exit C7)
Though the small rooms at the Sunlite
are typical of lesser business hotels in its
class, theyre well maintained and com-
fortable. Small details like triangular bay
windows and trapezoid-shaped rooms
lend a funky air to an otherwise ordinary
place.
SHINJUKU PARK HOTEL
Map p116 Business Hotel
IKEBUKURO
building and very simple in terms of dcor
and amenities, but you get a fairly large
communal bath and some eye-popping
night views of the skyscrapers in west
Shinjuku. Go for the larger Type B singles
while high-end hotel. Upgraded rooms have
GREEN PLAZA SHINJUKU
Map p116 Capsule Hotel
%3207-5411; www.hgpshinjuku.jp/hotel/, in
Japanese; 1-29-2 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku; capsules
from 4300; bShinjuku (east exit); i
Smack in the middle of sleazy Kabukich,
Green Plaza Shinjuku offers 630 standard-
issue capsules for men only. However,
the ladies sauna on the 9th floor allows
women to check in for the night (3400).
cramped and the dcor evokes vintage
%3980-1111; www.metropolitan.jp; 1-6-1 Nishi-
Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from 18,000/24,000;
bIkebukuro (west exit);i
The commodious rooms here, being reno-
vated at the time of writing, make it a worth-
subway station exit.
a clean, modern look.
SUNSHINE CITY PRINCE HOTEL
Map p122 Luxury Hotel
%3232-0101; www.sunroutehotel.jp/takada
%3988-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp/sunshine;
3-1-5 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from
17,400/23,100, Japanese-style r 169,300; bIke-
bukuro (east exit);i
Right on the Sunshine City mall complex
and close to the manga shops on Otome
Rd, this 1,166-room landmark has superb
views of Tokyo, even if the singles are
Laura Ashley. This is a decent alternative
SLEEPING IKEBUKURO
Renovated and renamed in 2005, the Strix
has some very appealing, modern rooms
with wide beds, cosy couches and spacious
bathrooms. High-speed internet is available
in all rooms. Navigate towards its teal-
coloured roof; its just steps from the C5
HOTEL SUNROUTE TAKADANOBABA
Map p122 Business Hotel
nobaba; 1-27-7 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; s/d
from 9500/16,800; bJR Yamanote Line to Taka-
danobaba (Waseda-dri exit); i
Renovated in 2005, the Sunroute is clean
and no-nonsense. High-speed internet
access is zapped into all of the blandly
comfortable, small rooms, and the place
is surprisingly quiet for a neighbourhood
buzzing with students.

%3356-0241; http://shinjukuparkhotel
.co.jp; 5-27-9 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from
7900/13,800, Japanese-style r 24,800; bShin-
juku (new south exit)
The low-key Park Hotel is a serviceable
base on busy Meiji-dri and has park
views (be sure to request one) in addition
to being close to several nearby shopping
megaliths. The Japanese-style rooms here
Ikebukuro lacks the charm of other busy if you want to spend time exploring Sun- TOYOKO INN KITA-GUCHI NO. 1
neighbourhoods in Tokyo and often seems shine City. Map p122 Business Hotel
like a poor cousin to Shinjuku. There are
many cheap hotels here, but the trick is to
HOTEL STRIX TOKYO %5960-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com/eng; 2-50-5
avoid the flea pits in favour of spots near
Map p122 Business Hotel Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d 6800/8800; bIke-
the station for quick access to more hap-
pening hoods. Takadanobaba is a student bukuro (north exit); i
zone to the south with lots of great ethnic %5396-0111; www.strix.jp, in Japanese; 2-3-1 The Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi No. 1 (theres
restaurants. Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from 15,000/20,000; another nearby) is one of the most appealing

214 215
 Lonely Planet Publications
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

choices of the standard business hotels here.
Rooms are tidy, if tiny, and Japanese rooms
with tatami mats are available. It even throws
in a simple Japanese breakfast.
HOUSE IKEBUKURO Map p122 Ryokan
wood-floored lounge area is a comfortable
%3984-3399; www.housejp.com.tw; 2-20-1 Ike-
bukuro, Toshima-ku; r 5000-12,000; bIkebukuro
(west exit), or Marunouchi or Yrakuch Line to
Ikebukuro (exit C1); i
Spotless tatami rooms are the rule at House
Ikebukuro, a rather institutional but very
clean place run by Taiwanese and catering
mainly to Asian backpackers. Its a busy,
well-run establishment, often fully booked.
All singles share bathrooms, but some
doubles have private ones.
KIMI RYOKAN Map p122 Ryokan
small alley look for the Starbucks to the
%3971-3766; www.kimi-ryokan.jp; 2-36-8
Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s 4500, d 6500-7500;
bIkebukuro (west exit);i
SLEEPING IKEBUKURO
Easily one of the best budget ryokan in
Tokyo, this convivial inn provides a wel-
coming base for travellers discovering the
city. The friendly proprietors ikebana works
adorn the rooms. Fragrant tatami rooms
are small but not cramped, and the large,
place to meet fellow travellers over green
tea. Clean showers and toilets are shared,
and theres a lovely Japanese cypress bath.
Book well in advance.
TAMA RYOKAN Map p122 Ryokan
%3209-8062; www.tamaryokan.com; 1-25-33
Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; s/d 4500/8000; bJR
Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (Waseda-dri exit)
Four traditional tatami rooms fill out the
second floor of this older private home,
kept by a sweet couple. The ryokan is up a
right of it on the road. While it lacks a tra-
ditional bath, theres a local sent located
nearby.

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
216
 Lonely Planet Publications

E XCU R S I O N S



18
To Joetsu
(30km)
To Nakaoka (87km);
Niigata (149km)

NIIGATA-
17
Ninamaki

Onsen
Nikk
Yumoto National
Onsen Park
Takaragawa
Nantai-San
(2484m)
To Koriyama
(80km);
Sendai
Yaita
FUKUSHIMA-
KEN
To Sendai
Kita-Ibaraki (263km)

y
KEN

E XCU R S I O N S
Chzenji-ko Nikk

Expw
Jm-Kgen Ka Minakami (p221) 4
Nagano n Onsen 6
Chjkan Inn Kegon-

-ets
no Jshin-etsu-kgen Imaichi IBARAKI-KEN
ga

wy
no-taki
Na

u Expwy
Jetsu Shinkansen
National Park

Exp
Tbu-Nikk
Shiriyaki Line Hitachi

Sh

ku
A s kan
Onsen Agatsuma Line Utsunomiya

in
Kusatsu

am s e

ho
Naganohara- TOCHIGI-

Line
Onsen

T
a n
Ikaho KEN

kan sen
Kusatsuguchi
Step outside Tokyo for a breath of fresh air, and you will encounter a whole different world GUNMA-KEN Onsen

oku
Shibukawa Kiry
from the nonstop super-bustle of the capital. Located just an hour or two by train are soothing Ueda Mt Haruna Mito

Th

Sh in
Karuizawa (1449 m) Maebashi Ashikaga
o 50
onsen (mineral hot springs) in natural settings, refreshing mountain hikes and walks, and a Komoro om
Ry ine

ku
18 Takasaki L 50 Oyama

ho
Jshin -etsu
few decent beaches on the Pacific. If you have got the time and a yen for careful planning,

T
Shimodate
Saku Exp Sea of
you will be able do all three in one trip. Plus, there are the must-see tourist destinations of wy
Ishioka
Kashima-
nada
Nikk and Kamakura, as well as the hot springs of Hakone and the Izu-hant peninsula near Fujioka

NAGANO-
KEN Koga
breathtaking Mt Fuji. The first two, rich in gorgeous temples and shrines, are particularly Kumagaya
y
pw
worth seeing if you dont have time to jump on a shinkansen (bullet train) to see the splendid Suwa
SAITAMA- an
Ex
6
To Nagoya Chichibu ob
architecture of Kyoto and Nara near Osaka. Thanks to Japans unsurpassed public transport KEN 17
Kasukabe
J
Kasumigaura-ko Kashima
infrastructure, sightseeing in the Kant area around Tokyo is easy, quick and very much Mt Kumotori
(2018m)
Kawagoe
miya 51
worth the time. Kobuchizawa
Chichibu-Tama-Koi
Okutama
Urawa
me Kashiwa
Places listed in this chapter can be visited as day trips, although if youre planning on being National Park
wy

16 Narita

p
in Tokyo for a week or more, an overnight stay can make these excursions infinitely more

Ex
Lake me
Enzan Okutama-k Mt Mitake Sakura o Narita
Nirasaki Kfu nt
relaxing, especially if its at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn). 20
(929m)
y Tachikawa Funabashi
TOKYO
Higashi- Ka Airport
Chshi
YAMANASHI- Ch Expw ma
KEN Hachiji Haneda
Tokyo ha
Chiba

i-
Airport

ONSEN Tokyo, utilising the shinkansen (bullet train)

ur
tsuki Lake Mt Takao Disneyland Tgane

j k
Minami-Alps Sagami-ko (599m)
Fuji-go-ko
to get out of the city as swiftly as possible.

Ku
National Park Kawaguchi-ko Kawasaki Tokyo

y
pw
KANAGAWA-
Hot springs heaven, here we come! Getting Fuji-Yoshida Bay Ichihara Kujkuri

Ex
In most of the destinations that follow, KEN

ei
m
Yokohama
naked with total strangers is not, for most Atsugi

Fuji-Hakone-Izu

To
there are onsen listings, so if youre off to Nikk National Park Mt Fuji To Sendai;
of us, the cultural norm, and those not from (p225) or Hakone (p228) for a day or two, you can (3776m) Hiratsuka
funa Kisarazu
CHIBA-
Hokkaid
Kamakura Kimitsu
Japan often feel self-conscious at first. But certainly get your feet (and more) wet. But the 52
Gotemba
1 (p229) KEN

shy gaijin (foreigners) should know that the star in the Kant area hot-spring firmament is Ashi-no-ko
Odawara
Enoshima
(p233)
Yokosuka Bs-hant Onjuku

Japanese perceive bathing as a great social Gunma-ken, where water bubbles out of the Hakone
Miura
(p225) Katsuura
leveller; all revel in the anonymity that nudity ground wherever you poke a stick into it. SHIZUOKA-
Fuji
Miura-hant
Numazu Mishima Kamogawa
allows. Get to Gunma from Ueno Station in
KEN
Atami

Shizuoka Shimizu
The baths themselves come in as many Tokyo via Takasaki (shinkansen 4600, one id
Fuji-Hakone-Izu
1 It
different shapes and sizes as the customers, ka e National Park Sagami Tateyama
hour; tokky 3700, 80 minutes; futs 1890, T Lin
Yaizu Wan
varying from the deluxe to the primitive. Es- 110 minutes) and Jm-Kgen Stations Suruga Wan Ti
EXCURSIONS ONSEN

Shirahama
sentially, you will either visit solely for an (shinkansen 5550, 75 minutes) on the Jetsu Tkaid
Shinkansen
Izu-hant
(p234)
o-furo (traditional Japanese bath, which trans- shinkansen line, or via Maebashi (tokky Dgashima Mt -shima
To Hamamatsu (73km); Nesugata- Shirahama
lates literally as the honourable bath) or stay 3190, 100 minutes; futs 1890, two hours) Nagoya (112km) yama

Iritahama Shimoda
at an onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring on the Rym Line, and Shibukawa (tokky Kisami-hama
Matsuzaki
inn) to enjoy good food, copious amounts of 3510, 105 minutes; futs 2210, 2 hours) Irzaki
To-shima
alcohol, karaoke and a soak in the establish- on the Agatsuma Line. Shimoda
Wan

Fer
ments private baths, which may be located The following Gunma onsen are highly IZU SEVEN

ry
Nii-jima ISLANDS
either indoors or outside. Ryokan will often recommended and within a days journey

Ro
To Nagoya;
PACIFIC

ute
Shikoku;
allow you to have a soak even if you arent via shinkansen.

s
Kysh OCEAN
staying there (ask for ofuro-nomi or higaeri- Higaeri onsen (bathing without accommo- Shikine-jima
onsen), although late-night privileges are often dation) generally runs from 700 to 2000.
reserved for guests. This is an excellent and Chjkan Inn ( ; Map p219; Kzu-shima Miyake-jima
affordable way to experience some beautiful, %0273-85-6634; www.houshi-onsen.jp in Japanese; 650
traditional baths. Unfortunately, bathing is Nagai, Niiharu-mura) To get to this gorgeous, wood-
also big business and rampant commercialism walled inn at Hshi Onsen, take the Jetsu Mikura-jima

has marred many once-lovely onsen. shinkansen from Tokyo Station to the Jm-
There are two excellent books devoted to Kgen Station (5240, 75 minutes). From 0 50 km
Onsen: A Guide to Japanese Hot Springs by there, take the bus for Sarugaky Onsen (30 0 30 miles

Anne Hotta and Yoko Ishiguro, and Japans
Hidden Hot Springs by Robert Neff. Both
are worth seeking out for anyone looking to
onsen-hop their way through Tokyos outlying
onsen resorts. Holders of the JR Pass can use
JR lines to hop to hot springs far afield from
218
minutes). At the last stop, take another bus
for Hoshi Onsen (25 minutes). Try to arrive Prefectural Boundary
around noon to sample the inns mountain-
vegetable steamed rice. Women can sneak
into the (far superior) mens bath here. In
fact, its almost expected. Hachij-jima
To Ogasawara
(800km)
 Ikaho Onsen (; Map p219; www.hotels
lonelyplanet.com
-ikaho.or.jp, in Japanese) Great public bath with
views of Mt Haruna. To get there, take the
Jetsu Line from Takasaki to Shibukawa Sta-
tion (futs 400, 25 minutes), and then a local
bus to the onsen (550, 20 minutes). Theres
also a shuttle bus from the east exit of Takasaki
Station to Ikaho Onsen Bus Terminal (1000,
55 minutes, three daily).
Kusatsu Onsen (; Map p219; www.kusatsu
-onsen.ne.jp) This is a quintessential old-time
onsen town. Take the Agatsuma Line from
Takasaki to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Sta-
tion (futs 1110, 87 minutes), then a local
bus to the onsen (670, 30 minutes). There
is an express bus from Shinjuku Station New
South Exit Bus Terminal (3200, four hours
15 minutes, nine daily).
Minakami Onsen (; Map p219; www.mina
kami-onsen.com) This is a thriving onsen town
that is often frequented by couples. If youre
not interested in a romantic rendezvous, you
can white-water raft in the summer. To get
there, take the Jetsu Line from Takasaki to
Minakami Station (tokky/futs 2360/950,
54/64 minutes). From the station, the onsen
is a pleasant 15-minute walk.
Shiriyaki Onsen (; Map p219) Very odd
and primitive, literally, the arse-burning hot
spring, favourite of haemorrhoid sufferers of
the Heike clan. At this onsen, you simply strip
and climb into the river though not during
EXCURSIONS HIKING
spring, when the river is high and the water
quite cold. Bring a bent (boxed lunch) as there
are no food options in the area, and start out
early. To get there, take the Agatsuma Line
from Takasaki to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi
Station (futs 1110, 87 minutes) where you
can catch a local bus to Hanashiki Onsen
(800, 30 minutes). From the bus stop, its a
10-minute walk.
Takaragawa Onsen (; Map p219; www
.takaragawa.com) Complete with river bathing,
Takaragawa has oft been voted the nations
best. To get there, take the Jetsu Line from
Takasaki to Minakami Station (tokky/futs
2360/950, 54/64 minutes), where you will be
able to catch a local bus to the onsen (1100,
35 minutes).
HIKING
The mountains surrounding Tokyo offer
exquisite hiking and walking trails through
quiet forests of lofty Japanese cedars, around
waterfalls and lakes. Such activities can often
be planned with a soak in the local onsen with
220
a cool nama-biiru (draught beer) afterwards.
The region includes some of Japans most
famous peaks like majestic Mt Fuji (see p228),
but far easier and flatter walking paths
abound. Trails can be reached by a train
journey of one to two hours from hubs like
Shinjuku, Ueno and Tokyo. One of the best
English guidebooks is Lonely Planets Hiking
in Japan; Tokyos foreigner-friendly Interna-
tional Adventure Club (www.iac-tokyo.org) organises
regular hikes for hikers of all abilities as well
as more challenging outings like ice climbing
and snow camping.
Be sure to bring enough water if you go,
and stock up on snacks at a convenience store
or supermarket as some rural train stations
may have very little in terms of local shops and
restaurants. Other items you should consider
bringing include maps, sturdy footwear, a
torch, a first aid kit and rain gear. Its a good
idea to drop by the tourist information office
near the trailhead if there is one to get
the latest information on routes, times, and
weather and trail conditions.
me () is a quiet town along the Tama
River in western Tokyo just outside Chichibu-
Tama-Kai National Park. Theres a lovely,
relaxing and quite flat trail through the hills
behind me Station (futs from Shinjuku
on the Ch and me lines 780, one hour)
that runs parallel to the JR me Line. To
reach it, turn left once you exit the station
and continue for a few blocks until you come
to a road that crosses the railway over a small
bridge to your left. Take another left here,
follow the road around some tennis courts
up to a park, where youll find a trailhead
leading up on your right. This leads to the
main westward trail, which you can continue
on until signs for Futamatao Station (
, about two hours), a few stops down
the me Line.
Okutama () is at the terminus of the
JR me Line and a gateway to the trails in the
Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. Regular
trains from Shinjuku run here daily with
changes at Tachikawa and me (1050, 110
minutes) but on weekends and holidays there
are faster Okutama Holiday Express services
in the morning (1050, 90 minutes). A great
hike with an inspiring Shinto shrine at the
end is from Okutama to Mitake-san (
, 929m). From Okutama Station, take a
left past the tourist information centre (
; %0428-83-2152; 210 Hikawa, Okutama-
machi;h8.30am-5pm), a good source for English
maps and local information, and cross a bridge
over the Tama River just before the trailhead
going to Nokogiri-yama (, 1109m). This
moderate climb continues to dake-san (
, 1267m), which has superb vistas, and
then down to Mitake-san (929m), whose
charming mountaintop village is home to the
impressive Mitake-jinja Shrine and quaint
minshuku (B&Bs). The hike takes three to
five hours and there is a funicular (570,
five minutes) leading down from Mitake to
Takimoto, where buses run to Mitake Station
on the me Line. Otherwise its a pleasant
30-minute walk.
Takao-san (), at only 599m, is a
family-friendly sacred mountain south of
me that is an easy climb (or otherwise
funicular ride, 470, six minutes) with a
picturesque temple and shrine as well as
a monkey park atop it. It is easily reached
from Shinjuku on the Kei Line to Takaosan-
guchi (jun-tokky 370, 53 minutes), but JR
Rail Pass Holders can ride the JR Ch Line
for free to Takao Station (47 minutes) and
then get on the Kei Line to Takaosan-guchi
(120, two minutes). From Takaosan-guchi
Station, turn right and continue straight
through the village to the funicular station
(where English maps are available), passing
it on the left and climbing to the top via
the forested Inari-yama trail (,
90 minutes). From the summit, you can try
to spy Mt Fuji to the southwest and then
pause for a snack at the noodle shops. If
you have the time and energy, keep hiking
westward following the signs to Shiro-yama
(, 670m), a 45-minute trek away. There
are refreshment facilities here, and then the
trail dips down to Lake Sagami-ko (
, 60 to 90 minutes). Nearby JR Sagami-ko
Station on the Ch Line will bring you back
to Shinjuku (950, one hour).
BEACHES
If youre seeking sun but shunning crowds,
dont head for the beach on weekends and
holidays when theres a predictable inflow of
city-dwellers (and their sometimes appall-
ing penchant for littering). When schools
out for summer (mid-July through August),
students will also be flocking to the shoreline.
Surfers can find respectable waves along the
Pacific coast of the Bs peninsula, in Chiba
prefecture, and sunbathers will find decent
beaches on both Bs-hant and Izu-hant. Information Centre (p225) or the Kydo Center
Be warned that many beaches have very strong
rip currents.
South of Tokyo
lonelyplanet.com
Kamakura has its own beach at Zaimokuza and
Enoshima Island (p233) and is best visited on a
weekday when its less crowded.
There are some lovely beaches near Shimoda
(p234) on the Izu peninsula. Ten minutes north
of town by bus, Shirahama () can see good
surf, but if the tides are uncooperative the
expansive, beautiful beach awaits your towel.
Buses from Shimoda leave hourly (320).
Ten minutes south of Shimoda are a string of
lovely beaches, of which Iritahama () and
Kisami-hama () are favourites with
surfers and sunbathers. Further around to the
western side of the peninsula, Dgashima (
; p235) is another charming town.
East of Tokyo
Underrated and untainted by overdevelop-
ment, the Bs peninsula boasts some of the
best, mellow beaches near Tokyo. Onjuku (
) is the nicest of those most easily accessed
from Tokyo, with beachfront cafs, a laid-
back coastal vibe and lots of white sand and
decent waves. South of Onjuku, Katsuura (
) and Kamogawa () also get good swells.
Wakashio trains (tokky, 3700, 80 minutes)
to Onjuku Station depart from the southeast
end of Tokyo Station on the JR Keiy Line.
About half the cost, but much slower, are the
regular trains on the JR Sotob Line.
EXCURSIONS NIKK
North of Onjuku, Kujkuri-hama (
) has over 60km of smooth, sandy, sparsely
populated beaches. To access them, take the
JR Sotob Line to Oami Station, transfer to
the Tgane Line, and disembark at Kujkuri
town. Frequent buses ply Kujkuri-hamas
coastal towns, and you can hop off when you
see a spot that appeals to you.
NIKK
An excellent day trip from Tokyo, Nikk is
one of Japans major tourist attractions due
to the splendour of its shrines and temples,
and the surrounding natural beauty. Nikk
can become extremely crowded, especially
during spring and autumn foliage seasons. If
its at all possible, its best to visit early on a
weekday to avoid the crowds. Before you head
to the shrine area either by bus or on foot, you
may want to stop by the Tbu Nikk Station
Tourist Information office (p224) to give your-
self the lay of the land.
221
lonelyplanet.com

next stop is 1200-year-old Rinn-ji, also founded

lonelyplanet.com
Nikk Line

Utsunomiya (36km);
To Shimo-ima (7.5km);
Tokyo (115km)
0.3 miles NIKK COMBINATION TICKET
500 m by Shd Shnin of the Buddhist Tendai sect.

Nikk Line
Nikk

Tbu-
en ...............................................(see 8)
Sambutsu-d ................................... (see 13)
Drum Tower ................................................. 1 B1
Five-Storey Pagoda .............................. 2 B1
Futarasan-jinja ............................ 3 B1
Haiden ............................................................ 4 B1
Honden .......................................................... 5 B1

Honji-d ................................................... 7 B1
su-den ......................................... 8 B2
...... 9 B1

Nemuri-neko ............................................. 11 B1
Omote-mon .............................................. 12 B1
.................................................. 13 B2
Sakashita-mon .................................... 14 B1

Sanjinko ................................................ 15 B1
Shinky ha ........................................... 16 B1

by ..................................... 17 A1
............................................... 18 B1
mei-mon .......................................... 19 B1
Hon -jinja .......................................6 C2

.................... 10 C2
On its grounds is Sambutsu-d (Three Buddha
Although you can buy separate tickets to each of Hall), which houses a trio of huge, remarkable

Ieyasu's Tomb

31
Nikks attractions, it makes sense to buy a combina- gold-lacquered images: a senj (1000-armed

Nikk
Tbu

Post Office
F

tion ticket (1000), which is valid for two days. The Kannon); the central image of Amida Nyorai;
ticket covers entry to Rinn-ji and to Tsh-g and and Bat, a horse-headed goddess of mercy.
Futarasan-jinja. Most sights are open 8am to 5pm
Hmotsu-den (Treasure Hall; Rinn-ji; admission 300;
(until 4pm November to March).
h8am-4pm), also in the temple grounds, has a
splendid collection of temple artefacts, sculp-
Nikks history as a sacred site stretches tures and scrolls. Admission to Hmotsu-den
SIGHTS

back to the middle of the 8th century when includes entry to the lovely Edo-period garden
Ko the Buddhist priest Shd Shnin established Shy-en.
a hermitage here in 782. For many years it
0
0

Tokorono
E

120
was known as a famous training centre for
TSH-G
26

Buddhist monks, although after a time it de-

clined into obscurity. Nikk remained for- A huge stone torii (entrance gate to a Shint
gotten until it was chosen as the site for the shrine) marks the entrance to Tsh-g, while
mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu (p224), the to the left is a five-storey pagoda. The pagoda

21
warlord who took control of all Japan and dates from 1650 but, like so many structures
a

29
a -gaw

Nakahatsuishi-ch
established the shgunate that ruled for 250 destroyed by natural disasters, was recon-
Daiy

To Tokyo
structed in 1818. The pagoda is remarkable

Gokomachi
30 years until Commodore Perry (p26) and his
American ships arrived in Tokyo Bay, just in for its lack of foundations the interior con-
D

time to usher in the Meiji Restoration and the tains a long suspended pole that apparently
end of the feudal era. swings like a pendulum in order to maintain
Turtle Inn Nikk ....... 27 A3

Bus Stop ................................................ 28 C2

....................................29 D3
Post Office .....................30 D3

............................................... 31 F4
Tokugawa Ieyasu was laid to rest among equilibrium during an earthquake.
Nikks towering cedars in 1617, but it was The true entrance to Tsh-g is through

o Center Tourist Information Office

on Information Centre
g aw
a
his grandson Tokugawa Iemitsu who, in 1634, the torii at Omote-mon, which is protected on
ri-
a
commenced work on the imposing shrine that either side by the Deva kings. Through the

In
28

entrance to the temple to the right is Sanjinko

22

Kami-Hastuishi-machi

can be seen today. The original shrine, Tsh-

10

(Three Sacred Storehouses). The upper storey

Shin-ky-

g, was completely rebuilt using an army of

24
bashi

of this building is renowned for the imagina-

Sannai

15,000 artisans from all over Japan. The work

INFORMATION
6
C

TRANSPORT

tive relief carvings of elephants by an artist

EXCURSIONS NIKK

EXCURSIONS NIKK
on the shrine and mausoleum took two years
who had apparently never seen the real thing.
bu Nik

to complete, and the results continue to re-

ceive mixed reviews. To the left of the entrance is the Shinkysha
20

Gohten-d

120

Tsh-g was constructed as a memorial to (Sacred Stable), a suitably plain building hous-
Goma-d

ing a carved white horse. The stables only

Hi no Kurama .......................................21 D3
hintei ............................................ 20 C1

Hippari Tako ............................. 22 C2

......... 23 A3

.....................26 E2
naya Hotel ..... 24 C3
ion ................ 25 B1

a warlord who devoted his life to conquering

adornment is an allegorical series of relief
Granite Torii

Japan. Tokugawa Ieyasu was a man of con-

Tsh-g

13

siderable determination and was not above carvings depicting the lifecycle of the mon-
Daiya-gawa

kway
al
key. They include the famous hear no evil,
Sokushin Centre

and W
sacrificing a few scruples, or a few people, in
12

Omotes
19
14

see no evil, speak no evil trio that is now

11

order to achieve his aims. He is attributed with

16
B

having had his wife and eldest son executed emblematic of Nikk and a favourite subject
4

Annex Turtle Hotori-An

2
15
5

because it was politically expedient for him to for shutterbugs.

9

7
18

do so. Interestingly, Tokugawas final resting Once youre finished taking in the stable,
i Ko
SLEEPING
Bronze

pass through another torii and climb another

Torii

place manages to reflect the imperiousness

EATIN G

ay
Walkw
25

Nishisand
flight of stairs, and on the left and right you
3

and the austerity of the powerful despot.

Nishi-Sand

will see a drum tower and a belfry. To the left

27

of the drum tower is Honji-d, with its huge

Takumi-ch

RINN-JI ceiling painting of a dragon in flight known

Kegon-no-taki (11km);
Takumi-ch

Chzenji-ko (11.5km);
To Chzenji-ko (11.5km);
Yumoto Onsen (23.5km)
120

You can approach this ancient temple via as the Roaring Dragon. According to legend,
17

To Yashio-no-yu
Onsen (3.2km);
A

Shin-ky-bashi (a sacred bridge) leading to the the dragon will roar if you clap your hands
To Gamman-ga-Fuji
NIKK

Bake-jiz (500m)

Toshogu area. Shd Shnin was reputedly beneath it.

Abyss (150m);

carried across the river at this point on the Next comes Ymei-mon, whose interior is
backs of two huge serpents. Tourists not toted adorned with a multitude of reliefs of Chinese
23
2

3
1

by reptiles can cross the bridge on foot. The sages, children, dragons and other mythical

222 223
lonelyplanet.com

the Shiyakusho-mae bus stop, on the southern

lonelyplanet.com
blocks northwest of the Kydo Center tourist information
NIKK TRANSPORT office, this post office has an international ATM. side of the Daiya-gawa.
Tbu Nikk station information centre ( Turtle Inn Nikk (; %0288-
Train The best way to visit Nikk is via the Tbu-Nikk Line from Asakusa Station. The station is in the basement of 53-3168; www.turtle-nikko.com/turtle/index_en.html; 2-16
the Tbu department store (its well signposted from the subway). All seats are reserved on tokky trains (2740, 110 ; %0288-53-4511; h8.30am-5pm) At
the Nikk train station, theres a small information desk Takumi-ch; s with/without bathroom from 5600/5100) Far
minutes), but you can usually get tickets and reservations just before setting out. Trains run every 30 minutes or so
where you can pick up a town map and get help in English and away the most popular of Nikks pen-
from 7.30am to 10am; hourly after 10am. Kaisoku trains (1320, 90 minutes, hourly from 6.20am to 4.30pm) require
to find buses, restaurants and hotels. sions, this cosy place is located beside the river
no reservation. (Note, passengers should ensure they ride in the first two carriages of the train as only these two go
and beyond the shrine area. To get here from
all the way to Nikk.) For trains other than the tokky, you may have to change at Imaichi.
the station, take a bus to the Sg-kaikan-
Travelling by JR is costly and time consuming, and is really of interest only to those who have purchased a JR Pass
at home. The quickest way to Nikk via JR is to take the shinkansen from Tokyo to Utsunomiya (4800, 50 minutes),
ONSEN mae bus stop, then backtrack around 50m to
the fork in the road and follow the river for
Yashio-no-yu Onsen (; %0288-
where you will then change for a futs train to Nikk (740, 45 minutes). around five minutes.
53-6611; 1726-4 Kiyotakiwa-no-shiromachi; adult/child
Nikk-Kinugawa Free Ticket This economical pass (7800) is valid for three days and is available from Tbu railways 500/free; h10am-9pm Fri-Wed) This modern hot- Nikk Pension (; %0288-54-
in Asakusa, as well as at major JR stations. The pass includes transport to Nikk, unlimited Tbu bus usage on certain spring complex has open-air baths, saunas 3636; www.nikko-pension.jp; 10-9 Nishi-Sand; r per person
Nikk-area routes and some discounts at local shops. and a large indoor bath. Take a Chzenji- with/without breakfast & dinner 9800/5800) A Tudor-
Bus Once you arrive in Nikk, you can either do the 30-minute uphill (and fairly featureless) walk to the temple and bound bus from either train station in style mansion near the temples with funky
shrine area, or you can hop on bus 1 or 2 (190). Nikk; its a 12-minute ride to the Kiyomizu- old dcor. Theres a large Japanese cypress
itchme stop. Walk back towards Nikk, bath open 24 hours.
under the bypass and across the bridge. Annex Turtle Hotori-An (
creatures. So much effort and skill went into The Kosugi Han Museum of Art ( Yumoto Onsen (; admission 500) Al- ; %0288-53-3663; www.turtle-nikko.com; 8-28
the gate that its creators worried that its per- ;%0288-50-1200; 2388-3 Sannai; admis- though Nikk is not generally thought of as Takumi-ch; r per person from 6800) This place, with
fection might arouse the anger and envy of sion 700; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a collection a place to hit the hot springs, it does have its mostly tatami rooms, is to the west of Turtle
the gods. To appease their predicted wrath, of landscape paintings by local artist Kosugi own little pocket of thermal activity. This quiet Inn Nikk (above), over the river but on the
the final supporting pillar on the left side was (192064) and is a good rainy-day option. onsen is about 30 minutes from Chzenji-k same road. The bath house looks out onto
placed upside down as a deliberate error in- To take a break from the colour and the by bus (840) and can be a good way to wrap the forest surrounding the inn.
tended to express humility. crowds, take a 20-minute walk over to Gamman- up a day spent trudging between temples and Nikk Kanaya Hotel (; %0288-
Through Ymei-mon and to the right ga-Fuji Abyss, which houses an interesting col- shrines. 54-0001; www.kanayahotel.co.jp/english/nikko/index.html;
is Nemuri-neko (Sleeping Cat; admission 520; h8am- lection of statues of Jiz (patron of travellers, 1300 Kami-Hastuishi-machi; s/d from 9240/11,500) Over-
4.30pm). This small feline carving is easy to children and the unborn). One of the statues, looking Shin-ky-bashi, Nikks classiest hotel
miss look to the beam above your head just Bake-jiz, mocks travellers foolish enough to EATING is decent value if you feel like a little civilised
before you begin the climb to Ieyasus Tomb. count the number of statues (its said to be con- Hi no Kuruma ( ; % 0288-54-2062; 597-2 splendour. During peak holiday periods the
Sakashita-mon here opens onto a path that climbs stantly changing to frustrate such attempts). Gokmachi; mains 500-1500; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue) rates nearly double.
EXCURSIONS NIKK

up through towering cedars to Ieyasus Tomb, a
relatively simple affair considering the bound-
less ambition of the person entombed. If you
are using the combination ticket (see boxed
text, p223), it will cost an extra 520 to see the
cat and the tomb. To the left of Ymei-mon
is Jinysha, a storage depot for Nikks miko-
shi (portable shrines), which come out and
bring the temple ground to life during Nikks
merry May and October festivals. The Honden
(Main Hall) and Haiden (Hall of Worship) can
also be seen in the enclosure.
OTHER SIGHTS
Near Tsh-g is Futarasan-jinja, dedicated
to Nantai-san, the tall mountain that rises
above Chzenji-ko, its consort Nyotai and
their mountainous progeny Tar. Also in the
vicinity is Taiyin-by, which enshrines Ieyasus
grandson Iemitsu (160451) and is a smaller
version of the grander Tsh-g. The smaller
size gives it a less extravagant air, and some
consider it more aesthetically worthy than its
larger neighbour.
224
A bit further afield, and ideal on a quiet day
if youve thoroughly explored Nikk, is the
50-minute bus trip up to Chzenji-ko (1100)
along a winding road; buses depart from
either Nikk or Tbu Nikk train stations.
Theres some beautiful scenery, including the
97m-high waterfall Kegon-no-taki; an eleva-
tor (530 return) drops down to a platform
where you can observe the full force of the
waterfall. Also worth a visit is the third of the
trio of Futarasan-jinja, complementing those
near Tsh-g and on Nantai-san.
For a relaxing soak, check out the areas
onsen (see opposite).
INFORMATION
Kydo Center tourist information office (
; %0288-53-3795; 591 Gokomachi;
h8.30am-5pm) Providing lots of useful pamphlets and
maps, the office also has helpful English-speaking staff.
Internet access costs 100 per 30 minutes.
Nikk Post Office (; %0288-54-0101;
896-1 Nakahatsuishi-ch;h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Three
A great spot for do-it-yourself okonomiyaki
(cabbage) pancakes. Top yours with pork,
squid, beef, shrimp and corn for 1500.
Hippari Dako (; %0288-53-2933; 1011
Kami-hatsuishich; dishes 800; h11am-7pm) Good,
cheap yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) and
yaki-udon (fried noodles) and friendly staff
have made Hippari Dako a favourite travel-
lers spot for years. The walls are papered with
business cards and testimonies to the virtues
of hot sake.
Gyshintei (; %0288-53-3751; 2339-1 San-
nai; dishes 4000; hnoon-8pm) Set in the garden
grounds of Meiji-no-Yukata, Gyshintei
serves elegant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.
SLEEPING
Nikk-shi Kryu Sokushin Centre (
; %0288-54-1013; www.city.nikko.lg.jp/kankou
/nikko/shukuhaku/koryusokusin.html, in Japanese; 2845 Toko-
rono; r with/without bathroom 5000/4100) Japanese-
and Western-style rooms have views at this
popular hostel. Its a 10-minute walk from
EXCURSIONS HAKONE
HAKONE
If the weather cooperates and Mt Fuji is
clearly visible, the Hakone region can make
a memorable day trip from Tokyo. You can
enjoy cable-car rides, visit an open-air mu-
seum, soak in hot-water springs and cruise
Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi). A paradise for hikers,
divers and onsen lovers, Fuji-Hakone-Izu National
Park is a grab-bag of tourist sights taking in Mt
Fuji (3776m), the surrounding five lakes, the
Izu Peninsula and the Izu Islands.
Once youve arrived at Hakone-Yumoto Sta-
tion, its possible to board the delightful two-
car mountain train that slowly winds through
the forest to Gra. Between Odawara and Gra
on the toy-train Hakone-Tzan Line is the
Hakone Open-Air Museum (;
%0460-82-1161; www.hakone-oam.or.jp; 1121 Ni-no-Taira;
admission with/without Hakone Freepass 1400/1600; h9am-
5pm). You might want to stop in at the Hakone
Tourist Information Centre (p228) before you
start exploring; its a five-minute walk west of
225
lonelyplanet.com

the Hakone-Yumato Station. This art museum 4km cable-car ride to Tgendai. On the way,

lonelyplanet.com
To
Tokyo
2 km
is a short walk from Chkoku-no-mori Sta- the car passes through wakudani, which youll

Hayakawa
tion, just before Gra. As well as paintings, know youre approaching when you catch the
1 mile
ine

Sagami Wan
Odaky L

Odawara
the museum has a 70,000 sq metre outdoor first eggy whiff of sulphur. You can get out at

Odawara
Shinjuku
(41km)
sculpture park that features works by artists this point and take a look at the volcanic hot

Itabashi
Hakone
F

Nebukawa
To

such as Auguste Rodin and Henry Moore. The springs where the steam continually rises. The

135
outdoor bronzes are particularly lovely in the water from these hot springs is responsible
d Tkaid ine
ll R L
sugi To
Odawara-At Shinkans
en
winter under a light blanket of snow. for the black shells of many a boiled egg. If
To Atsugi

Tkaid
(20km)

the weather is clear, there are grand views of

..............(see 9)

..........................................12 E2
Hakone-Yumoto Post Office............................ 13 E2
.................................................. 9 B1
Fujiya Hotel .......................... 10 C2

............................... 11 C3
Mt Fuji, both from the gondolas and from
GRA TO ASHI-NO-KO

To Atami
(9.5km)
Kazamatsuri

Iriuda
0
0

e rnp
ike wakudani. The journey from Gra to Togen-
Lin Gra is at the end of the Hakone-Tzan Line

Hakone Sengokuhara Youth Hostel

Tu

Hakone Tourist Information Center

ak
y on
e dai costs 1300/2300 one way/return; make
O d k
Ha and the start of the funicular and cable-car sure to hold on to your ticket if you pause at
Hakone

Moto-Hakone Guest House

trip to Tgendai on the shore of Ashi-no-ko.

Fuji Hakone Guest House

wakudani. From wakudani, the car contin-
Hakone-Yumoto

13
E

Theres nothing to see at Gra, and youll

To Nagoya; Osaka
ues to Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi), a pretty lake that
Sun-ji
4

probably want to wander on. Further up the on clear days serves as a reflecting pool for ma-

INFORMATION
12
8

hill, 10 minutes from Gra Station, is the Ha- jestic Mt Fuji, which rises imperiously above

SLEEPING
kone Museum of Art (; %0460-82-2623; the surrounding hills. The best way to take in
6
Tonosawa

www.moaart.or.jp/english/hakone/index.html; 1300 Gora; ad- the views and cross the lake is to board one of
mission 900; h9am-4.30pm Fri-Wed Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm the incongruous black Ashi-no-ko Pirate Ships (cruise

F1
C3

C1

C2
E2

E2

Amazake-chaya ................................7 C3
Hatsuhana ............................................... 8 E2
Dec-Mar), which has an interesting moss garden 840) at Tgendai. These kitschy ships cruise the
Hwy

Kappa Tengoku .......................... 4

Odawara Castle ................................ 5
Tenzan ............................................................ 6
Hakone Checkpoint ....................... 1

....................................................... 2

..................................3
Rd
Ohiradai

and a collection of ceramics from Japan and

1

length of Ashi-n-ko in 30 minutes.

id

Toll

To It (24km)
Tka

e across Asia. Near where the boats dock in Hakone-machi

D

Li
ind

Once finished with the museum, take the is the old Hakone Checkpoint, run by the Tokugawa
Fuji-Hakone-Izu

Old

Sh
National Park
Miyanoshita

zan

ne

funicular from Gra up Sunzan (10 minutes).

Hakone Open-Air Museum

regime from 1619 to 1869 as a means of con-
ko
a

Ha

Hakone Museum of Art

-T
aw

If you dont have a Hakone Freepass (see trolling the movement of people and ideas in
ne
-g

ko
Chkoku-no-mori
ya

below), youll need to buy a ticket (400) at

Ha

and out of Edo. The present-day checkpoint is

Ha

the booth to the right of the platform exit. a recent reproduction of the original, and can
Kami-Futago-Yama
10

Sun-zan is the starting point of a dramatic

SIGHTS

EATING
be interesting for history buffs.
(1091m)
Ashi-no-yu
3

Moto-Hakone Jiz
Gra Gra

1
Sunicul Gra
Gra-

7
ken

HAKONE TRANSPORT
Moto-Hakone
nza a r

ass
n
C

Hako ll Rd
Byp
EXCURSIONS HAKONE

EXCURSIONS HAKONE
Niju-go

There are three ways to get to the Hakone region: the Odaky express bus service, departing from the bus terminal on
Sun-zan

Bosatsu
(1438m)
2

Hakone-machi
Fu

Hakone-jinja

To
ne
11
Komaga-take
138
To Gotemba (8km);

the west side of Shinjuku Station; JR service, which runs regularly from Tokyo Station; and the private Odaky train
Mt Fuji (22km)

Sunzan

Komaga-Take-Yama

Shojin-ike
Ropeway

Ave eria
line, which departs from Shinjuku Station.
Komaga-take-
nobori-guchi

tom
1

Cryp
(1327m)

Train JR trains run on the Tkaid Line between Tokyo Station and Odawara Station. Futs trains (1450, 80 minutes)
Boat Cruise

Onshi Hakone-ken
(Hakone Detached
Pier

run every 15 minutes or so, while tokky trains (2660, one hour) leave less frequently. Shinkansen (3440, 35 min-
Palace Garden)
wakudani

Boat Cruise
Hakone-en
r
Ca

utes) leave Tokyo Station every 20 minutes, but youll need to make sure youre on the train that stops at Odawara
To Atami
(10km)
e

Pier
bl
Fuji-Hakone-Izu

Hakone

Ca
National Park

(the Kodama does, others do not).

1
Ashi-no-ko

Trains also run to Odawara from Shinjuku Station on the Odaky Line. The quickest and comfiest option is the
Ubako

Romance Car (1720, 75 minutes), which leaves every half-hour. Theres also a tokky service (850). At Odawara,
B

you can change to the Hakone-Tzan Line, a two-car toy train that will eventually deposit you at Gra (650). Alter-
Togendai

To Hamamatsu (15km);
9

natively, if you are already on the Odaky Line, you can continue on to Hakone-Yumoto and change to the Hakone-
Tzan Line (390 to Gra) by crossing the platform.
Cruise

Nagoya
Boat

Pier

Rd

Skylin
e Toll Bus The Odaky express bus service has the advantage of running directly into the Hakone region, to Ashi-no-ko
o
o-k
To Gotemba

(Lake Ashi) and to Hakone-machi (1950, two hours). The disadvantage is that the bus trip is much less interesting
hin
(8km)

As
Kojiri Pass

than the combination of Romance Car, toy train (Hakone-Tzan Line), funicular, cable car (ropeway) and ferry. Buses
Driv leave from bus stop 35 in front of Odaky department store on the west side of Shinjuku Station.
e
Hakone S k y w ay
e
lin

Hakone Freepass The Odaky Line offers a Hakone Freepass (two/three-day validity 5000/5500); this excellent
HAKONE
A

ticket allows you to use seven modes of transport within the Hakone region and provides discounts on some of the
major sights. The fare between Shinjuku and Hakone-Yumoto Station is also included in the pass, although if youre
To Gotemba

seeking the comforts of the Romance Car, youll have to pay a surcharge (870). If you have a JR Pass, youd be
(8km)

advised to buy a Freepass in Odawara (3900/4400). Altogether its a good deal for the Hakone circuit.
2

3
1

226 227
lonelyplanet.com

A WISE MANS CLIMB Tony Wheeler
I started out on a hot August night. At 10pm the temperature had been around 27C (80F), but by 4am it was below
freezing and the wind was whistling past at what felt like hurricane speed. With a surprising number of other gaijin
(foreigners) and a huge number of Japanese, I reached the top of Mt Fuji.
Climbing Mt Fuji is definitely not heroic: in the two-month season, as many as 180,000 people get up to the top
3000-odd every night. Nor is it that much fun its a bit of a dusty slog, and when you get to the top its so cold and
windy that your main thought is about heading down again. But the climb and the views arent really what you do
it for. To Japanese Fuji-climbers, its something of a pilgrimage; to gaijin, its another opportunity to grapple with
something uniquely Japanese.
Like many other climbers, I made my Fuji climb overnight. At 9.30pm I got off the bus at the Kawaguchi-ko 5th
Station, which is where the road ends and you have to start walking. Surprisingly, about half the passengers on my
bus were gaijin, most of them a group of Americans planning to convert the Japanese to Mormonism! Id bought a litre
of the isotonic drink Pocari Sweat and a packet of biscuits at a 7-Eleven in the town of Kawaguchi-ko, and wearing a
shirt and a coat, I was all set. The night was clear but dark, and I was glad Id bought some new batteries for my torch
before I left Tokyo.
My experience of climbing holy mountains is that you always get to the top too early you work up a real sweat on
the climb and then you freeze waiting for dawn. So I hung around for a while before starting out.
Despite the hordes climbing the mountain, I managed to lose the path occasionally. By the time I reached 2390m Id
already stopped to unzip the lining from my coat. By 11pm I was past 2700m and thinking it was time to slow down if I
wanted to avoid arriving too early. By midnight it was getting much cooler, and I zipped the jacket-lining back in place
and added more clothes to my ensemble. I was approaching 3000m virtually halfway and at this rate I was going
to be at the top by 2.30am, in line with the four hours and 35 minutes the tourist office leaflet said it was supposed to
take! In Japan, even mountain climbing is scheduled to the minute.
Although Id started on my own, some of the faces I met at rest stops were becoming familiar by this point, and Id
fallen in with two Canadians and a Frenchman.
lonelyplanet.com
Huts are scattered up the mountainside; some stations have a number of huts, and others have none. The proprietors
are very jealous of their facilities, and prominent signs, in English and Japanese, announce that even if it is pouring with
rain, you can stay outside if you arent willing to fork over the overnight fee. Fortunately, at 1.30am we were virtually
swept into one hut, probably in anticipation of the numerous bowls of rmen (noodles in soup) we would order. We
hung out in this comfortable 3400m-high hideaway until after 3am, when we calculated that a final hour and a bit of
a push would get us to the top just before the 4.30am sunrise.
We made it and, looking back from the top, we saw hordes of climbers heading up towards us. It was no great
surprise to find a souvenir shop (there is absolutely no place in Japan where tourists wont find a souvenir shop wait-
ing for them). The sun took an interminable time to rise, but eventually it poked its head through the clouds, after
which most climbers headed straight back down. I spent an hour walking around the crater rim, but I wasnt sorry
to wave Fuji-san goodbye. The Japanese say youre wise to climb Fuji, but a fool to climb it twice. Ive no intention
of being a fool.
If you decide to go
Fuji-san can be reached via Kei Ksoku bus (%03-5376-2222; ticket 1700), which takes 1 hours and departs
from the long-distance bus station on the west side of Shinjuku Station, or via a more expensive and circuitous train
route that takes at least two hours and involves hopping the JR Ch Line for tsuki (tokky/futs 2980/1280) where
you will then need to cross the platform to catch the local train to Kawaguchi-ko (1110, 50 minutes). Whether arriving
by bus or train, Kawaguchi-ko is the place to catch the bus for the Kawaguchi-ko 5th Station (one of several departure
points that are part-way up the mountain), where most climbers from Tokyo begin their evening hike. If youre a glutton
for punishment you can start at the base of Fuji-san and climb all the way up Fuji via the Yoshida route. Keep in mind
that the official climbing season starts on 1 July and ends on 31 August (although it is possible but not advised to
go at other times). And, of course, remember common-sense hiking precautions: take water unless you intend to buy
it during your climb, and make sure you pack gear that is appropriate for cold and wet weather conditions can vary
wildly between the bottom and top of the mountain.

From here, nearby buses run from Moto-
Hakone back to Odawara (1070, 50 minutes).
Odawara is billed as an old castle town,
which it is although its generally agreed
EXCURSIONS HAKONE
temburo (outdoor bath) is a nice one if its
not too crowded.
Tenzan (; %0460-86-4126; 208 Yumoto-Chaya;
admission 900; h9am-11pm) This large, popular
SLEEPING catch a bus from lane 3 to Ashinokoen-mae
bus stop. The guest house is well signposted
Hakones popularity with Japanese weekend-
from there.
ers in search of the ultimate spa experience
Hakone Sengokuhara Youth Hostel (
is reflected in the high price of most accom-

that the castle is an uninspiring reconstruc-
tion of the original. If youre still interested,
Odawara castle (; %0465-23-1373; adult/child
400/150;h9am-5pm) is a 10-minute walk from
Odawara Station.
INFORMATION
Hakone Tourist Information Center (
; %0460-85-6700; 698 Yumoto; h9am-5pm)
Located in front of Hakone-Yumoto train station.
Hakone-Yumoto Post Office (; %0460-85-
5681; 383 Yumoto; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
ONSEN
There are many bathing options in Hakones
numerous onsen areas. Along with a multi-
tude of onsen there are also many onsen ry-
okan (traditional hot-spring inns), some of
which welcome day visitors.
Kappa Tengoku (; %0460-85-6121; 777
Yumoto; admission 750; h10am-10pm) Just up the
hill from Hakone-Yumoto Station, this ro-
228
bath is 2km southwest of town; weekends
and holidays can be busy. A free shuttle bus
runs from the bridge near Hakone-Yumoto
Station. After soaking in rotemburo of varying
temperatures and designs (one is constructed
to resemble a natural cave), the 20-minute
walk back down the hill along the river is
invigorating.
EATING
Amazake-chaya (; %0460-83-6418; amazake
& snacks from 500) Since the Edo era, this tea
house has been serving up amazake (warm,
sweet sake) and light snacks. Its about
550m up the Old Tkaid Hwy from Moto-
Hakone.
Hatsuhana (; %0460-85-8287; 635 Yumoto;
mains 750-1100; h10am-7pm) Slurp some soba
(buckwheat noodles) at this pleasant eatery
along the Haya-gawa. Hang a left on the next
main street after passing the tourist informa-
tion centre in Hakone-Yumoto; its over the
bridge on the left.
modation in the area. With the exception of
two youth hostels and a couple of ryokan,
there are few budget and midrange options,
although those that exist are comfortable
and convenient for hiking and hot-spring
hopping.
Fuji-Hakone Guest House (; %0460-
84-6577; www.fujihakone.com; 912 Sengokuhara; r per per-
son from 5250) This guesthouse has clean, airy
Japanese-style rooms and access to a hot spring
bubbling up directly from the Owakudani Vol-
cano. Theres a comfy lounge and internet ac-
cess too (30 mins/100). A natural hot spa is
available for private bathing, and night-time
soaks are a treat, especially when the weather
cools. To get here take a bus from stand 4 of
Odawara Station to the Senkyr-mae bus
stop (1020, 50 minutes). Theres an English
sign nearby.
Moto-Hakone Guest House (
; %0460-83-7880; www.fujihakone.com; 103 Moto-
Hakone; r per person from 5250) This homey, pleas-
ant guest house is located near Ashi-n-ko.
From the bus terminal at Odawara Station,
EXCURSIONS KAMAKURA
; %0460-84-8966; www.jyh.or.jp; 912
Sengokuhara; dm 3195) This friendly youth hostel is
located just behind Fuji-Hakone Guest House.
Check-in is from 4pm to 6pm. For directions,
see Fuji-Hakone Guest House (left).
Fujiya Hotel (; %0460-82-2211;
www.fujiyahotel.co.jp; 359 Miyanoshita; r from 23,400) The
posh, wood-trimmed Fujiya Hotel, which has
the rustic feel of a 19th-century hunting lodge,
is famous as one of Japans earliest Western-
style hotels, and is highly rated on all fronts.
The hotel is a five-minute walk from Miya-
noshita Station on the Hakone-Tzan Line; if
you ring from the station, someone will give
you directions in English.
KAMAKURA
Kamakura had a spell of glory as the nations
capital from AD 1192 to 1333 when Japans
seat of power temporarily relocated here
from Kyoto. The Minamoto and later the
Hjo clans ruled Japan from Kamakura for
more than a century, until finally in 1333,
229
lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com
KAMAKURA 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles KAMAKURA
SIGHTS Kaiz-ji ..................................19 B2 EATING
A B 9 C D
Kita-Kamakura
Ankokuron-ji ...................... 1 C3 Kakuon-ji ............................ 20 D1 Chaya-kado ....................35 C1
To funa (2.1km); Any-in .................................... 2 C3 Kamakura National Treasure Komachi-Ichiba ....... 36 A2
Yokohama (18km)
Tokyo (50 km) 30 24 Chsh-ji ................................. 3 C3 Museum .................21 C2 T-Side .................... 37 A2
Daibutsu (Great Buddha) Kannon Statue ...............................(see 13)
16
1
0 200 m 21 ............................................. 4 A3 Kench-ji .............................22 C1 SLEEPING
38
0 0.1 miles Daigy-ji ................................... 5 A2 Kyhin-ji ...............................23 C4 Classical Hotel Ajisai
22 ...38 B1
Daih-ji .................................... 6 C3 Meigetsu-in ........................24 C1
Kamakura City Hotel New Kamakura
35 Egara Tenjinja ...............7 D2 Mych-ji ............................25 C3
........... 39 A2
ri
ri

-d

Eish-ji ...................................... 8 C2
i-d

10 28 20 Myh-ji ..............................26 C3
Kamakura Hase Youth Hostel
ji
ach

19 Engaku-ji .................................. 9 C1 Myhon-ji ...........................27 C3

...... 40 A3
iya
Kom

Yo
34 Enn-ji ....................................10 C1 Raig-ji ................................ 28 D1
kam

39 37

ko
Gokuraku-ji .......................... 11 A3 Sugimoto-dera ................. 29 D2

suk
Wa

31 7
8 TRANSPORT

a
a
Hase-dera ............................. 12 A3
aw

32 Tkei-ji ..................................30 B1 Bus Station ......................... 41 A2

Lin
33
i-g

e
36
Hkoku-ji .............................. 13 D2
er

5 18 Tomb of Minamoto Yoritomo

m

2 41 21
Na

43 Hongaku-ji ........................... 14 A2 ................................... 31 D2 INFORMATION

Kamakura 29

n
42
Hossh-ji ............................... 15 D4 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-g

ow
Kamakura Post Office

a
aw
gT
Jchi-ji ....................................16 B1 ....................................32 C2 ............................................. 42 A2

i -g
14

ppin
21

er
Jju-in .................................... 17 A3 Zeniarai-benten ............33 B2 Tourist Information Centre

m
Na
Sho
13
Kamakura Jufuku-ji .................................18 C2 Zuisen-ji .............................. 34 D2 ..................... 43 A2

27

4
lished by the Genji family, founders of the up the hill but is off-limits to the public (al-
See Enlargement
6
Kamakura shgunate. It is dedicated to a deity though you can peer into the courtyard).
who is both the god of war and the guardian of For 600 years Tkei-ji (; %0467-22-1663;
ri

2
Wadazuka
the Minamoto clan. Youll see a steeply arched 1367 Yamanouchi; admission 100; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct,
-d

3 26
iya

Line bridge that was once reserved for the passage 8.30am-4pm Nov-Mar) was known as the Divorce
kam

12 en Yuigahama
Enod
Wa

1
11 of the shgun alone. Temple, the only place in Japan where abused
40
Hase
21
25
Inside Hase-dera (; %0467-22-6300; 3- or disgruntled wives could seek refuge from
Gokurakuji 17
Yuigahama
3
11-2 Hase; admission 300; h8am-5.30pm Mar-Sep, 8am- unhappy marriages. The main object of wor-
Gosho-jinja 15 4.30pm Oct-Feb), a temple overlooking the bay, ship here is a statue of Shaka Nyorai (the
23 is a 9m-tall, gold-leafed Kannon statue, said to Enlightened Buddha). The statue is believed
To Enoshima (3.6km);
Zaimokuza have washed up from the sea in the early 8th to date back to the 14th century and, accord-
Fujisawa (6km) century. The statue represents the Buddhist ing to temple records, it escaped a great fire
Rd Zushi City
goddess of mercy whose compassion is often in 1515.
EXCURSIONS KAMAKURA

oll
an T
Shon
weakened by the heavy cost of maintaining
defences against the threats of attack from
Kublai Khan in China, the Hjo clan fell from
power at the hands of the forces of Emperor
Go-Daigo. Although the restoration of im-
perial authority was somewhat illusory, the
capital nevertheless shifted back to Kyoto, and
Kamakura disappeared temporarily from the
history books.
Today Kamakuras wealth of notable
temples and elegant shrines makes it one
of Tokyos most rewarding day trips, and
one that is most often undertaken by locals.
The city is best in spring and autumn when
the weather is temperate, but ocean views
and old-fashioned shops are a delight year-
round. Be sure to stroll up Komachi-dri from
Kamakura Station, where you can stop by the
Tourist Information Centre (p233) for a bit of
EXCURSIONS KAMAKURA
Sugami Wan
To Zushi (2km);
invoked as a source of succour to the bereaved Founded in 1283 by Hojo Morotoki, Jchi-ji
Yokosuka (8.4km) and aggrieved. In the gardens here are thou- (; %0467-22-3943; 1402 Yamanouchi; admission
To Hayama sands of small jiz statues. Mothers who have 150; h9am-4.30pm) is the fourth of Kamaku-
(4.5km)
miscarried or aborted fetuses, or lost their ras five great Zen temples. The main gates
children, often dress jiz in warm clothing or bell on the 2nd floor of the belltower was
local information in English. Then jump on offer toys or food as offerings in supplication cast in 1340. Nearby is Kanro-no-ni, one of
the Enoden Line for a rickety ride through Ka- for helping those lost children negotiate the Kamakuras 10 revered wells. The interest in
makuras backstreets to Hase Station, which is underworld. this muddy little pond, whose name trans-
near the awesome Daibutsu (Great Buddha) Kench-ji (; %0467-22-0981; 8 Yamanouchi; lates to sweet water, is mostly historical, but
and Hase-dera temple. admission 300; h8.30am-4.30pm), the first and photographers still swarm its edges looking
grandest of Kamakuras Zen temples, is home for the perfect shot.
TEMPLES & SHRINES to gnarled cypress trees that arose from seeds
brought from China by founding priest Lah-
Enn-ji (; %0467-25-1095; 1543 Yamanouchi;
admission 200; h9am-4pm Apr-Oct, 9am-3.30pm Nov-Mar)
Kamakura has a wealth of ancient temples
and shrines, making it a very worthwhile hsi Tao-lung 700 years ago. The main hall is is distinguished by its statues depicting the
destination if you cant make it to Kyoto. from Kyoto and the Buddha Hall (Butsuden) judges of hell. According to the Juo concept of
These sanctuaries make for an ideal weekend from Tokyo, but the temple bell is the only Taoism, which was introduced to Japan from
stroll as many can be comfortably visited artefact that was actually made here. China during the Heian period (7941185),
on foot. One of the five main Rinzai Zen temples in these 10 judges decide the fate of souls, who,
A pleasant walk from Kamakura Station, Kamakura, Engaku-ji (; %0467-22-0487; 453 being neither truly good nor truly evil, must
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-g (; %0467-22- Yamanouchi; admission 200; h8am-5pm Apr-Sep, 8am- be assigned to spend eternity in either heaven
0315; 2-1-31 Yukinoshita; general admission free, exhibition 4pm Oct-Mar) dates from 1282 and has a majestic or hell. Presiding over them is Emma (Yama),
hall 100; h9am-4pm, closed last Mon each month) is a main gate from the 1780s. The temples main a Hindu deity known as the gruesome king of
carnivalesque Shint shrine that was estab- treasure, one of Buddhas teeth, is enshrined the infernal regions.

230 231
 Kakuon-ji (; %0467-22-1195; 421 Nikaid;
lonelyplanet.com

to ferocious guardian figures (ni) poised

admission with tour 300;h10am-4pm, closed in Aug) fea-
tures a charming thatched Buddha Hall and
hourly tours; the last one starts at 3pm.
Zuisen-ji (; %0467-22-1191; 710 Nikaid;
admission 100; h9am-5pm) is best known for its
perennial flowers and relaxing strolls through
gardens laid out by founder Mus Kokushi
during the Kamakura era (11851333).
If you feel like exploring some of Kama-
kuras more remote temples and shrines, the
following are good options.
Students come to Egaraten-jinja (;
%0467-25-1772; 74 Nikaid; admission free; h7.30am-
6.30pm) to pray for academic success. Like
other Tenjin shrines, Egara is dedicated to
the memory of Michizane Sugawara, a Kyoto
scholar of noble birth who was born in the
middle of the 9th century. Students write their
aspirations on ema (small wooden plaques),
which are then hung to the right of the shrine.
Buses taken from stop 6 in front of Kamakura
Station run out to Egara Tenjinja; get off at
Tenjin-mae.
Sugimoto-dera ( ; % 0467-22-3463; 903
Nikaid; admission 200; h8am-4.30pm), Kamakuras
oldest temple, is said to have been established
by Empress Komei sometime in the mid-
8th century. The famous ancient steps lead
BUDDHISM IN KAMAKURA
EXCURSIONS KAMAKURA
at the entrance. The main hall houses three
Kannon statues that are said to have miracu-
lously escaped a 12th-century fire by hiding
behind a tree. Take a bus from bus stop 5
in front of Kamakura Station and get off at
Sugimoto-dera.
Situated down the road from Sugimoto-
dera, Hkoku-ji ( ; %0467-22-0762; 2-7-4
Jmyoji; admission to garden 200; h9am-4pm) has
quiet landscaped gardens where you can
relax under a parasol with a cup of green
tea. This Rinzai Zen temple is known for
its forest of vibrant, perennial bamboo. It
regularly holds zazen (meditation) classes
for beginners.
GREAT BUDDHA & MUSEUM
Kamakuras most famous sight, Daibutsu (
; Great Buddha; Kotoku-in, 4-2-28 Hase; admis-
sion 200; h7am-6pm Mar-Nov, 7am-5pm Dec-Feb) was
completed in 1252. Once housed in a huge
hall, the statue of Buddha today sits in the
open, as a result of its home having been
washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Cast in
bronze and weighing close to 850 tonnes,
the statue is 11.4m tall. Its construction
was inspired by the even bigger Daibutsu
in Nara, although it is generally agreed that
lonelyplanet.com
KAMAKURA TRANSPORT
Train From Tokyo Station, the JR Yokosuka Line runs to Kamakura (890, 56 minutes) and Kita-Kamakura (780) Sta-
tions. On clear days, you may be able to catch intermittent glimpses of elusive Mt Fuji. Once here, you can continue
on to Enoshima via the scenic Enoden (Enoshima Dentetsu) Line from Kamakura Station or by bus from stop No 9 in
front of the station. The train (250, 24 minutes) is the simpler and cheaper option.
Bus The transportation hub here is the Kamakura train station, from which most of the local buses depart. A lack of
English-language signposting makes the bus network hard to use, but the stations Travel Information Centre (TIC;
below) has the latest details on which boarding spots serve which destinations.
the Kamakura bronze is artistically superior. Kamakura. Unlike most local eateries in town,
If youre not claustrophobic, you can enter which close just after 8pm or so, this little spot
the Buddhas belly through a small door that stays open later.
opens from his side. The privilege will cost
you a measly 20.
The Kamakura National Treasure Museum ( SLEEPING
; Kamakura Kokuhkan; %0467-22-0753; 2-1- Kamakura Hase Youth Hostel (
; %0467-24-3990; www1.kamakuranet.ne.jp/hase_
1 Yukinoshita; admission 300; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)
displays an excellent collection of Kamakura yh; 5-11 Sakanoshita; dm member/nonmember 3360/3990)
art. Some are the typically peaceful Jiz, al- Three minutes from Hase-dera and Yuiga-
though the collection also houses a number of hama beach, this hostel has bunk beds with a
compelling sculptures that are energetic and tatami room and a capacity of 12. Breakfast
carnal, and sometimes gruesome. and dinner are available.
Hotel New Kamakura (;
%0467-22-2230; www.newkamakura.com, in Japanese; 13-2
INFORMATION Onarimachi; s/d from 7500/11,000) Reservations are
Post Office (; %0467-22-1200; 1-10-3 recommended at this friendly, wood-floored
Komachi; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Has ATMs hotel near the station. Both Western- and
inside. Japanese-style rooms are available.
Tourist Information Centre (; Classical Hotel Ajisai (
%0467-22-3350; 1-1-1 Komachi; h9am-5.30pm ; %0467-22-3492; www.beniya-ajisai.co.jp/hotel.htm,

EXCURSIONS ENOSHIMA
Although Buddhism came to Japan in the 6th century, it was 500 years later, during the Kamakura period (AD Apr-Sep, 5pm Oct-Mar) Located just outside the east exit of in Japanese; 1-12-4 Yukinoshita; s from 6830) This is an
11851333), that Buddhism finally spread throughout the country. Initially the Kamakura period was marked by secular Kamakura Station. affordable option with simple Western-style
disillusionment with Buddhist institutions and the monastic orders, and a widespread belief that the world had entered rooms and views of Tsurugaoka Hachiman-
Mapp (the Later Age), a period of Buddhist decline when individuals would no longer be able to achieve enlightenment g shrine.
through their own efforts alone. This led to the flourishing of alternatives to established Buddhist doctrine notably EATING
Zen and the Pure Land school of Buddhism.
The Pure Land Jd school preached that in the Later Age, salvation could be achieved only through devotion to the
Chaya-kado (; %0467-23-1673; 1518 Ya-
manouchi; mains from 900; h10am-5pm, may close without ENOSHIMA
Unless youre a surfer and plan on being in
transcendent Amida Buddha all who called on him sincerely would achieve salvation in the Pure Land after death. notice) Serving up hot, hearty soup, this humble
This populist stroke opened Buddhism in Japan to the masses, who had previously been largely excluded from the more soba (buckwheat noodles) spot is conveniently the water for most of the day, its best to avoid
esoteric branches of Buddhism. This also contrasted with Zen, which sought Buddhahood through meditative practice located on the route from Kita-Kamakura to this popular beach at weekends, when its sand
aimed at the empty centre of the self. Kamakura, just before you reach Kench-ji. is completely packed with day-tripping es-
With its rigorous training and self-discipline, Zen found support among an ascendant warrior class and made During the low season, the restaurant may capees from Tokyo. At the end of the beach
a considerable contribution to the samurai ethic. Differences on the question of whether satori (enlightenment) open only for lunch. is a bridge to Enoshima Island, where Enoshima-
could be attained suddenly or whether it was a gradual process accounted for Zen breaking into the Rinzai and Komachi-Ichiba (; %0467-24-7921; jinja (; %0466-22-4020; h9am-4pm)
St sects. 1-1-1 Komachi, Kamakura Station, 2nd fl; lunch/dinner from is reached by an outdoor escalator, although
The contending schools of Pure Land and Zen, along with the views of charismatic leaders, such as the influential 980/1700; h11.30am-2pm & 4-10.30pm) This restau- it is possible, and pleasant, to walk the whole
13th-century priest Nichiren, led to the revitalisation of Buddhism within Japan during the Kamakura period. The major rant, located above the Tourist Information way. The shrine houses a hadaka-benzaiten a
Japanese Buddhist sects can trace their antecedents to that era. Centre, dishes up tasty meal sets at terrific nude statue of the Indian goddess of beauty.
You will find numerous temples around Kamakura, including: Ankokuron-ji, Chsh-ji, Daigy-ji, Daih-ji, Eish- prices. The sister tempura shop next door has Other sights around the island include the
ji, Gokuraku-ji, Hongaku-ji, Hossh-ji, Jufuku-ji, Kaiz-ji, Kyhin-ji, Mych-ji, Myhon-ji, Myh-ji and Raig-ji. the same hours of operation. Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden (
Any-in is a temple known for its azalea blooms in spring; Joju-in is another temple known for its blooms in May; T-Side (; %0467-24-9572; 2-11-11 ; %0466-23-0623; adult/child
Meigetsu-in is a 13th-century temple; and Zeniarai-benten is a Shint shrine famed for its ability to double money Komachi; meal sets from 2100; h11am-9.30pm) T-Sides 200/100; h9am-4:30pm) and some sea caves on
washed in its spring. varied and delicious Indian menu is a find in the far side of the island.

232 233
 SHIMODA
lonelyplanet.com

WESTERN IZU-HANT maps and brochures in English. Located next to Shimoda

ENOSHIMA TRANSPORT
Train The rustic Enoden railway runs between
Kamakura and Enoshima (250, 25 minutes). Alter-
natively, Enoshima can be reached from Shinjuku
Station in Tokyo with the use of Odaky Lines
Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass (1430, 90 minutes).
JR also offers a Kamakura Enoshima Free Ticket
(1970, 55 minutes), which is valid for two days.
Enoshimas beaches are good for some
meditative wandering, particularly around
the rocky headlands on the southern side of
the island. On fair days, Mt Fuji is clearly
visible from the south and west sides of the
island. In the late afternoon, you can stop for a
drink at one of the cliff-side restaurants where
couples often come to watch the sun set over
the mountain.
IZU-HANT
Eighty kilometres southwest of Tokyo, Izu-
hant, with its abundant onsen and rugged
coastline, is one of Japans most popular resort
destinations and cottage areas. It can get very
crowded at weekends and holidays, particu-
larly in summer. Luckily, once you get past the
touristy resort of Atami, the crowds usually
thin out. And over on the west coast, where
transport is by bus only, things are always a
EXCURSIONS IZU-HANT
Shimoda is the most pleasant of the surround-
ing onsen towns. It is famous as the residence
of the American Townsend Harris, the first
Western diplomat to set up house in Japan.
The Treaty of Kanagawa, which resulted from
Commodore Matthew Perrys visit (p26), ended
Japans centuries of self-imposed isolation by
forcing the nation to open the ports of Shi-
moda and Hakodate to US ships. An Ameri-
can consulate was established in Shimoda in
1856.
About 700m south of Shimoda Station
is Rysen-ji (; %0558-22-0657; www.izu.co.jp
/~ryosenji; 3-12-12 Shichiken-ch, Shimoda; museum admis-
sion 500; h8.30am-5pm), which is now famous
as the site where Commodore Perry and
representatives of the Tokugawa shgunate
signed a treaty whose conditions (favour-
able to the USA, of course) supplemented
those outlined in the Treaty of Kanagawa,
which was signed earlier, in 1854. Located
next to the temple is the Rysen-ji Treasure Museum
displaying exhibits relating to the arrival of
Westerners in Japan. These include pictures
depicting Okichi-san, a courtesan who was
forced to give up the man she loved in order
to attend to the needs of the brutal barbar-
ian, Harris. When Harris left Japan five years
later, Okichi-san was stigmatised for having
had a relationship with a foreigner and she
was eventually driven to drink and suicide.
From Shimodas bus stop 5 in front of the
station, its a very scenic bus journey to
Dgashima, a small, charming fishing town
on the western side of the peninsula. Along
the way is Matsuzaki, a cape recommended for
its traditional-style houses and quiet sandy
beach. The bus to Dgashima takes about 30
minutes (1360).
The main attractions at Dgashima are
the dramatic rock formations that line the sea-
shore. The park situated just across the street
from the bus stop has some of the best views.
Its also possible to take a boat trip (50/20
minutes 1880/900) from the nearby jetty to
visit the towns famous shoreline cave, which has
a natural window in its roof that allows light
to pour in. You can look down into the cave
from paths in the aforementioned park.
South of the bus stop in Dgashima, you
will find the stunning Sawada-ken Rotemburo
onsen (; 2817-1 Nishina,
Nishi-Izuch, Kamo-gun; admission 500; h7am-7pm
Wed-Mon Sep-Jul, 6am-8pm Wed-Mon Aug), which
is perched high on a cliff overlooking the
Pacific Ocean. You should go early in the
day if possible; around sunset, its standing
room only.
INFORMATION
lonelyplanet.com
Station.
Volunteer English Guide Association (%0558-23-5151;
maimai-h@i-younet.ne.jp; Shimoda;h8.30am-5.15pm
Tue-Sun) Offers free guided tours of the area.
EATING
Musashi (; %0558-22-0934; 1-13-1 Shimoda;
mains from 630; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Musashi
serves most Japanese favourites, including
tempura soba.
Matsu Sushi (; %0558-22-1309; 1-2-21 Shi-
moda; meal sets from 1000; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue) Stop
by this place for well-priced, fresh sushi and
sashimi.
Gorosaya (; %0558-23-5638; 1-5-25 Shi-
moda; lunch/dinner 1575/3150; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm
Wed-Mon) This slightly upscale restaurant serves
very good seafood; look for the wooden fish
at the entrance.
SLEEPING
izu Ryokan ( ; %0558-22-0123; 3-3-
25 Shimoda; r per person 3500) With a tiny hot-
spring bath and small, simple Japanese-style
rooms, this popular ryokan is situated on
the south side of Shimoda. It is located two
blocks north of Perry Rd and four from the
waterfront.
Kokumin-shukusha New Shimoda (

lot quieter.
ATAMI
Atami is known as a hot-spring naughty-
weekend destination for Japanese couples,
although one well-known gaijin (foreigner),
John Wayne, got off his horse and drank his
sake here for the filming of The Barbarian
and the Geisha. Other than its numerous
hot springs, its prime attraction is the MOA
Art Museum (MOA; %0557-84-2511; www
.moaart.or.jp; 26-2 Momoyama-ch, Atami; admission 1600;
h9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed, closed 6-10 Jan & 25-31 Dec),
which houses a collection of Japanese and
Chinese art. Take a bus from bus stop 4 out-
side the station to the MOA Bijutsukan. It is
another hot-springs resort and is famous as
the place where Anjin-san (William Adams),
the hero of James Clavells book Shgun, built
a ship for the Tokugawa shgunate. Atami is
especially popular with amorous twosomes,
and is best avoided if youre wanting peace
and quiet.
234
Next door to Rysen-ji is Chraku-ji (;
admission free; h8.30am-5pm), a pleasant little
temple that is worth a quick look. Nearby
Hfuku-ji (; %0558-22-0960; 1-18-26 Shimoda;
museum admission 300;h8am-5pm) has a museum
that commemorates the tragic life of Okichi-
san. Her grave is also here.
Other ways to take in Shimoda include tak-
ing the Shimoda Ropeway (%0558-22-1211; return fare
incl mountaintop park admission 1200) up 200m-tall
Nesugata-yama, walking along one of the
many beaches, or taking one of the Black Ship
cruises (%0558-22-1151; cruise 920) around the bay.
These cruises take about 20 minutes and de-
part from Shimoda Harbour every 30 minutes.
There are three boats per day (9.40am, 11am
and 2pm) that leave on a course for Iro-zaki.
You can leave the boat at Iro-zaki (one way
1530, 40 minutes) and travel by bus north-
wards up the peninsula, or stay on the boat
to return to Shimoda. Note: three boats per
day leave on Monday, Friday, Saturday and
Sunday; during holiday seasons the schedule
is daily.
EXCURSIONS IZU-HANT
; %0558-23-0222; 1-4-13 Nishi-Hongo, Shimoda; r
Main Post Office (; %0558-22-0603; per person with/without meals 7480/4855) This nonde-
1-4-27 Shimoda;h10am-5pm) Has an international ATM. script economy inn does have its pros: tatami
Shimoda Tourist Information (; floors and a spacious onsen. Take a right out
%0558-22-1531; 1-4-28 Shimoda; h10am-5pm) Has of Shimoda Station, another right at the first
IZU-HANT TRANSPORT
Atami
Train JR trains run from Tokyo Station to Atami on the Tkaid Line: Acty kaisoku (1890, 90 minutes), Kodama
shinkansen (3570, 52 minutes), Odoriko tokky (4070, 80 minutes). Its also possible to approach Atami via Shinjuku
Station via the Odaky Line to Odawara (850, 73 minutes) and then connecting with the JR Tkaid Line to Atami
(400, 30 minutes).
It
Train It is connected to Atami by the JR It Line (320, 25 minutes). The JR Odoriko tokky service also runs from Tokyo
Station to It (3820) and takes about two hours.
Shimoda
Train Shimoda is as far as you can go by train on the Izu-hant peninsula. You can take the Izu Kyk Line from It
(1670, 90 minutes) or the Odoriko tokky from Tokyo Station (6090, three hours).
235
 Lonely Planet Publications
Shimoda Tky Hotel (; %0558-
lonelyplanet.com

traffic light, continue for 2 blocks and find

it on your right. 22-2411; www.shimodatokyu.com, in Japanese; 5-12-1 Shi-
Station Hotel Shimoda ( moda; s/d from 14,000/16,000; s) Two kilometres
; %0558-22-8885; www.takinogawa.net/station.html, south of Shimoda, this posh hotel has an onsen
in Japanese; 1-1-3 Nishi-Hongo, Shimoda; s/d 5800/9800) and a swimming pool and boasts a cliffside
Right next to Shimoda Station, this is a rea- location with ocean views. Rates include a
sonably priced, no-frills business hotel that free shuttle to and from the station, as well
will do for a short stay. as two free meals.
EXCURSIONS IZU-HANT

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
236
 Lonely Planet Publications

TR AN S PO R T
Tokyos world-class, public-transport system
will get you anywhere you need to go. Most
places worth visiting are conveniently close
to a subway or Japan Railways (JR) station.
Where the rail network lets you down (though
it really shouldnt), there are usually bus serv-
ices although using these can be challenging
if you cant read kanji.
Most residents and visitors use the railway
system far more than any other means of
transport. It is reasonably priced and fre-
quent (generally five minutes at most be-
tween trains on major lines in central Tokyo),
and stations have conveniences such as left-
luggage lockers for baggage storage. The only
drawback is that the system shuts down at
midnight or 1am and doesnt start up again
until 5am or 6am.
Subway trains have a tendency to stop
halfway along their route when closing time
arrives. People who are stranded face an ex-
pensive taxi ride home or have to wait for the
first morning train. Check schedules posted
on platforms for the last train on the line if
you plan to be out late.
Avoiding Tokyos rush hour is a good
idea, but might be impossible if youre on a
tight schedule. Commuter congestion tends
to ease between 10am and 4pm, when trav-
elling around Tokyo especially on the JR
Yamanote Line can actually be quite pleas-
ant. Before 9.30am and from about 4.30pm
onward therell be cheek-to-jowl crowds on
all major train and bus lines.
AIR
International flights from all over the world
land in Japan, most of them arriving in Tokyo.
Tokyo is also the hub of air travel within
Japan, which is extensive, reliable and safe.
In many cases, flying can be faster and not
significantly more expensive than riding
the shinkansen (bullet train). Flying can also
help you get from Japans main hubs, such as
Tokyo and Osaka, to some of the countrys
most far-flung destinations, such as Okinawa
and Hokkaido.
Customs and immigration procedures are
usually straightforward, although theyre more
time-consuming for gaijin (foreigners) than
for Japanese. Note that as of 20 November
2007, non-Japanese have been fingerprinted
and photographed on arrival, and are subject
to intense questioning. A neat appearance will
speed your passage through passport control
and customs, though you can expect delays
if youve entered Japan multiple times as a
tourist.
Everything at Narita Airport is clearly sign-
posted in English and you can change money
in the customs halls of either terminal or in
the arrival halls. The rates will be the same as
those offered in town.
Airports
Tokyo has two airports: Narita, which handles
most international traffic, and Haneda, which

TRANSPORT AIR
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be is used primarily for domestic flights.
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/ Narita Airport (%flight information 0476-34-5000,
travel_services. general information 0476-32-2802) is 66km east of

WARNING THINGS CHANGE

The information contained in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices for international travel are
volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled, schedules change, special deals come and go, and rules and visa
requirements are amended. Airlines and governments seem to take pleasure in making price structures and regula-
tions as complicated as possible. You should check directly with the airline or your travel agency to make sure you
understand how the ticket you buy works. In addition, the travel industry is highly competitive, and there are many
lurks and perks.
The upshot of this is that you should get opinions, quotes and advice from as many airlines and travel agencies as
possible before parting with your hard-earned cash. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers
and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research.
For the most up-to-date travel information, check out the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Forum at www.thorntree
.lonelyplanet.com.

237
lonelyplanet.com

Tokyo, but aside from its inconvenient loca- although there is usually someone who can for the Skyliner service, or purchase tickets Narita airport and a number of major hotels

tion, its an excellent, modern airport with
a plethora of services. It is divided into two
terminals, which are connected by a free
shuttle-bus service. From Terminal 1 board
this bus at stop 0, and from Terminal 2 board
at stops 8 and 18. Note that some of the air-
ports services are available only in the newer
Terminal 2.
At both terminals there are post offices,
currency-exchange counters and lots of res-
taurants and duty-free shops. Both terminals
also offer left-luggage services and efficient
baggage-courier services (see right).
In both Terminals 1 and 2, the travel-weary
(and -dirty) will find showers and day-rooms
for napping, and free childrens playrooms
available to departing passengers who have
completed emigration formalities. Both play-
rooms include computer games and well-
designed play areas.
There are several information counters in
both terminals, and the staff speak English;
the main counter for foreign visitors is the
Terminal 2 information counter (%0476-34-6251;
h9am-8pm), on the 1st floor.
The airport Tourist Information Center (TIC;
%0476-34-6251; h9am-8pm) is a key stop if you
havent yet booked any accommodation.
While youre there, pick up a subway map
and the Tourist Map of Tokyo. Theres a TIC
on the 1st floor in each terminal. Narita air-
port also has a JR office where you can make
bookings and exchange your Japan Rail Pass
voucher for a pass, if youre planning to start
travelling straight away.
Check-in procedures are usually very ef-
ficient at Narita, but you should arrive at the
airport at least two hours before your de-
TRANSPORT AIR
answer your questions in English.
Courier Services
Baggage couriers provide next-day delivery of
your large luggage from Narita and Haneda
Airports to any address in Tokyo (costs
around 2000 per large bag). They can also
deliver luggage to points beyond Tokyo so
you dont have to haul it through trains and
stations all over the countryside. Couriers
can also pick up luggage for delivery to the
airport, but be sure to call two days before
your flight to arrange a pick-up. The com-
panies listed here have some operators who
speak English:
ABC (%01-2091-9120)
NPS Skyporter (%3590-1919)
Yamato (%0476-32-4755)
Getting To/From the Airports
NARITA AIRPORT
Getting into town from Narita can take
anything from 50 minutes to two hours,
depending on your mode of transport. Be-
cause the two terminals at Narita are fairly
distant from one another, be sure to get off
at the correct terminal all airport transport
prominently displays lists of airlines and the
terminal they use.
Both the private Keisei Line and Japan
Railways (JR East) offer services to get from
Narita to Tokyo. Conveniently, trains depart
from stations under the airport terminals.
On the private Keisei Line (%0476-32-8501; www
.keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/keisei_us/top.html), two serv-
ices run between Narita airport and Tokyo:
for the Keisei tokky service from the ticket
machines. JR Nippori Station has a clearly
signposted walkway to the Keisei Nippori
Station.
Japan Railways (JR East; %3423-0111; www.jreast
.co.jp/e/nex/index.html) runs Narita Express (NEX;
2940, 53 minutes) and JR kaisoku (rapid
express; 1280, 85 minutes) services into
Tokyo Station (Map pp523), from where you
can change for almost anywhere. NEX is
swift, smooth and comfortable, but it doesnt
run as frequently as the private Keisei Line.
NEX trains leave Narita approximately every
half-hour between 7am and 10pm for Tokyo
Station, and they also run less frequently into
Shinjuku (Map p116; 3110) and Ikebukuro (Map
p122; 3110), or to Japans second-largest city,
Yokohama (4180). All seats are reserved,
but tickets can usually be bought just before
departure; if the train is already full, you can
buy a standing ticket for the same price.
The JR kaisoku service is part of the local
transit network and so stops at many local
stations. This service is the slowest and cheap-
est into Tokyo Station, leaving about once
an hour.
Friendly Airport Limousine buses (%3665-7220;
www.limousinebus.co.jp/e) can be found in both
wings of the arrival building of Narita air-
port. Dont get too excited about the name
theyre ordinary buses. They take 1 to two
hours (depending on traffic) to travel between
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL
Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the fastest-growing con-
tributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility
to limit our personal impact on global warming.
lonelyplanet.com
around Tokyo. Check departure times before
buying your ticket; buses depart every 15 to
30 minutes.
The fare to hotels in Ikebukuro, Akasaka,
Ginza, Shibuya or Shinjuku is 3000. You
can also go straight to Tokyo Station (one
hour 20 minutes) or to Shinjuku Station (Map
p116; one hour 25 minutes) for 3000. Those
transferring to domestic flights departing
from Haneda Airport can take a limousine
bus direct (3000, 75 minutes) from Narita.
Allow plenty of extra time as traffic condi-
tions in Tokyo are seldom ideal. Limousine
buses also offer services between Narita and
Yokohama City Air Terminal (YCAT; %045-459-4800) at
Yokohama Station. Buses from YCAT, depart-
ing every 20 minutes or so, take around 90
minutes and cost 3500.
In case youre wondering, a taxi to Narita
Airport from Tokyo will cost more than
30,000 and, battling traffic all the way, will
usually take longer than the train.
HANEDA AIRPORT
The simplest, cheapest way to get from
Haneda into Tokyo is to hop on the JR
monorail to Hamamatsuch Station on the
JR Yamanote Line. Trains (470, 20 min-
utes) leave every 10 minutes. Limousine
buses (direct; 900, 30 minutes)also connect
Haneda with Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT; Map p126)
and hotels around central Tokyo; buses to

parture time. Passport control and security
procedures are similarly efficient (bring your
embarkation card, which you should have
received upon arrival; if you dont have one,
you can get a blank form before going through
passport control).
Haneda Airport (%information 5757-8111) is the
airport seasoned Tokyo expats wish was still
Tokyos main air hub. Unfortunately, all in-
ternational traffic now goes via Narita airport,
and only domestic flyers and charter flights can
make use of this conveniently located airport.
Haneda doesnt have Naritas services in-
frastructure, but there are post offices, banks,
left-luggage services and baggage-shipping
companies. Nor does Haneda have a dedi-
cated English-language information counter,
the comfortable, fast Skyliner service (1920,
56 minutes), which runs nonstop to Nippori
and Ueno Stations (Map p72); and the tokky
(premium train) service (limited express;
1000, 75 minutes). The Keisei Stations in
Terminals 1 and 2 are clearly signposted in
English. From Nippori or Ueno (the final
stop), you can change to the JR Yamanote
Line. Ueno Station is on both the JR Yaman-
ote Line and the Hibiya and Ginza subway
lines. If youre travelling to Ikebukuro or
Shinjuku, its more convenient to get off one
stop before Ueno at Nippori Station, also on
the JR Yamanote Line.
Going to the airport from Ueno, the Keisei
Ueno Station is right next to the JR Ueno
Station. You can buy advance tickets here
TRANSPORT AIR
Flying & Climate Change
Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes
are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they
release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight
between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average households gas and electricity
consumption over a whole year.
Carbon Offset Schemes
Climatecare.org and other websites use carbon calculators that allow travellers to offset the level of greenhouse gases
they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable travel schemes that reduce global warming includ-
ing projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda.
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, support the carbon
offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel.
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.

238 239
lonelyplanet.com
Ikebukuro and Shinjuku, for example, cost
1200 and take about one hour. Of course
you could shell out around 7000 for a taxi
if you prefer.
Tickets
If youre planning on booking domestic flights
in Japan, youll find a number of travel agen-
cies in Tokyo where English is spoken. Note
that prices fluctuate wildly depending on sea-
son, availability and fuel prices.
Across Travellers Bureau (www.across-travel.com);
Ikebukuro (Map p122; %5391-3227; 3rd fl, 1-11-1
Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku); Shibuya (Map p106;
%5467-0077; 3rd fl, 1-14-14 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku);
Shinjuku (Map p116; %3340-6745; 2nd fl, 1-19-6 Nishi-
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku)
No 1 Travel (www.no1-travel.com); Ikebukuro (Map p122;
%3986-4690; 4th fl, 1-16-10 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-
ku); Shibuya (Map p106; %3770-1381; 7th fl, 1-11-1
Jinnan, Shibuya-ku); Shinjuku (Map p116; %3200-8871;
7th fl, 1-16-5 Kabukich, Shinjuku-ku)
STA Travel (Map p122; %5391-2922; www.statravel
.co.jp/english/index.html; 7th fl, 1-16-20 Minami-
Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku)
BICYCLE
Despite the tangled traffic and often narrow
roads, bicycles are still one of the most com-
mon forms of transport in Tokyo. Theft does
happen, especially of cheap bicycles, so go
ahead and lock up your bike. Ride with your
bag or pack on your person, as opportun-
ists on motorbikes do swipe stuff from those
front-mounted baskets.
Some ryokan (traditional Japanese inns)
and inns rent bicycles to their guests, but if
TRANSPORT BICYCLE
your lodgings dont, you can rent a bicycle in
Asakusa for 200 per day. Theres a bicycle-
rental lot on the Sumida-gawa bank near
Azumabashi (the bridge just outside Asakusa
Station). Also see p195 for location-specific
leisure-ride bike rentals.
BOAT
Water taxis are one of the most dramatic ways
to take in the city. For more information on
cruises down the Sumida-gawa, see p87.
BUS
The vast majority of Tokyoites and resident
expats never set foot on a bus as the rail and
subway system is convenient and incredibly
240
comprehensive. However, on rare occasions,
it can sometimes be quicker to get between
two destinations on a bus.
Bus fares are 200 for Tokyo Metropoli-
tan (Toei) buses; you can pick up a copy of
the Toei Bus Route Guide, including a route
map and timetable, at any Toei subway sta-
tion. Childrens rates are half those of adult
fares. Deposit your fare into the box next to
the driver as you enter the bus; you can get
change for 1000 notes and coins. A tape re-
cording announces the name of each stop
as it is reached, so listen carefully and press
the button next to your seat when yours is
announced.
The one-day Tokyo Combination Ticket
(see p242) can be used on Toei buses as well as
the subway and JR railway lines.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Driving
Driving yourself around Tokyo is by no
means impossible, but the entire experience
is somewhat akin to stabbing yourself in the
eye with a chopstick. Parking space is limited
and expensive, traffic moves in slow-mo, traf-
fic lights are posted virtually every 50m, and
unless youve lived here for awhile and can
read Japanese, expect to get lost.
With that said, youre much better off tak-
ing advantage of Tokyos excellent public
transport. However, if you do intend to drive
in Japan, pick up a copy of the eminently use-
ful Rules of the Road, available from the Japan
Automobile Federation (www.jaf.or.jp/e/index.htm).
A large number of Tokyoites and resident
expats have motorbikes. Its a good way to
get around town, especially after the trains
have stopped running. The best place to take
a look at whats available and get some infor-
mation in English is the area of motorbike
shops on Korinch-dri, near Ueno Station
(Map p72) some of the shops there have for-
eign staff.
If you do decide to buy a motorbike, you
will need a motorbike licence (for motorbikes
up to 400cc, your foreign licence is transfer-
able) and your bike will need to be registered.
Bikes up to 125cc are registered at your local
ward office, while bikes of more than 125cc
are registered with the Transport Branch Of-
fice. Further information can be obtained
through the service offered to foreign resi-
dents living in Tokyo by the Tokyo Metropolitan
Government (%5320-7744).
Hire
Car-rental agencies in Tokyo will hire you
one of their vehicles upon presentation of an
international driving licence. Small cars aver-
age 8000 per day. Some rental agencies that
usually have English-speaking staff on hand:
Dollar Rent-a-Car (%3567-2818)
Nippon Rent-a-Car (%3485-7196)
Toyota Rent-a-Car (%5954-8008)
TAXI
Generally speaking, taxis are very expensive,
and you should only use them when you have
no alternative, such as returning to your hotel
or apartment late at night. Rates start at 710,
which buys you 2km (after 11pm its 1.5km),
then the meter rises by 80 every 275m (every
220m or so after 11pm). You also click up
about 80 every two minutes while you relax
in a typical Tokyo traffic jam. Taxi vacancy is
indicated by a red light in the corner of the
front window; a green light means theres
a night-time surcharge; and a yellow light
means that the cab is on call.
If you have to get a taxi late on a Friday or
Saturday night, be prepared for delays and
higher prices. The same applies any day of
the week for the first hour or so after the last
trains run. At these times, most stranded com-
muters stand in long queues in order to get
a taxi home.
Tokyo taxi drivers rarely speak any English
if you dont speak Japanese, its a good idea to
have your destination written down in Japa-
nese. Even if your destination has an English
name, it is unlikely the driver will understand
your pronunciation.
Oh, and by the way, dont slam the door
shut when you get in or leave. In Japan, taxi
the cheapest fare (130), disembarking at the
doors magically open and close themselves.
TRAIN
The Tokyo train system can be a bit daunt-
ing at first, but youll get the hang of it soon
enough. Much initial confusion arises from
the fact that Tokyo is serviced by a combi-
nation of train lines, private and municipal
inner-city subway lines and private subur-
ban lines. This sometimes means switching
between different train and subway systems,
though its not as bad as it sounds since the
lines are well integrated.
When determining where to get off the
train, look for station names clearly marked
in both Japanese and English on platform
lonelyplanet.com
signs and/or posts. These may sometimes be
difficult to see, but inside the trains there are
electronic signs indicating the next station
in Japanese and English. Additionally, auto-
mated announcements are made both inside
the trains, as well as at the station when the
doors open.
Always watch out for express services. As
a general rule, the longer the route, the more
likely you are to find faster train services. The
fastest regular trains (ie slower than the bul-
let trains) are the tokky (; limited ex-
press services) and the kyk (; ordinary
express), which usually stop at only a limited
number of stations. The slowest trains, which
stop at all stations, are called futs ().
Since the faster trains do not stop at all
stations, you must determine whether your
destination is serviced by an express train
before boarding it. However, there is usually
a board on the platform indicating exactly
which trains stop where, in both English and
Japanese.
Most of Tokyos train lines now reserve
women-only carriages at weekday rush
hours and on weekend nights. The carriages
are marked with signs (usually pink) in both
Japanese and English, or in some cases by
illustrations showing the silhouette of a man
standing outside of a women-only carriage.
Boys older than 12 are not allowed on women-
only carriages.
Japan Railways (JR) Lines
YAMANOTE LINE
Making a 35km loop around central Tokyo,
the Japan Railways (JR) Yamanote Line (Map
TRANSPORT TAXI
p110) is a mostly above-ground circuit that
makes a great introduction to the city. Buy
same station where you start, and youll get
a solid, one-hour overview of Tokyos main
areas of interest. Most fares within the Yaman-
ote loop are either 160 or 190. JR Yamanote
Line trains are silver with a green stripe.
CH & SBU LINES
The JR Ch Line (Map p116) cuts its way
through the centre of the JR Yamanote Line
between Shinjuku and Tokyo Stations. Trains
on this line are coloured orange. This line is
continuous with the JR Sbu Line until Och-
anomizu Station where the lines split the
Ch heading down to Tokyo Station and
the Sbu heading out to the eastern suburbs.
241
lonelyplanet.com

Trains on the JR Sbu Line are yellow, so tell- Generally, the subway system is indispens tions, and they are sited slightly apart from the A Tokyo Combination Ticket (1580) is a

ing them apart is easy. The JR Ch Line is able for getting to areas that lie inside the loop
about the fastest route between Shinjuku and traced by the JR Yamanote Line. The central
Tokyo Stations (only rivalled by the Maru- Tokyo area is served by a large number of lines
nouchi subway line). that intersect at Nihombashi, temachi and
Ginza, making it possible to get to this part
OTHER LINES of town from almost anywhere.
The JR Yokosuka Line runs south to Kamakura
(see p233) from Tokyo Station via Shimbashi
and Shinagawa Stations. The JR Tkaid Line Tickets & Passes
also travels in the same direction from Tokyo VENDING MACHINES/PURCHASING
Station, providing access to Izu-hant (p234). For all local journeys, tickets are sold by
vending machines called kippu jid hanbaiki.
Above the vending machines are rail maps
Private Lines with fares indicated next to the station names.
YURIKAMOME LINE Unfortunately for visitors, the names on the
The privately owned Yurikamome Line, which map are often in kanji only. The best way
services Odaiba (Map p131), is a driverless, el- around this problem is to put your money in
evated train that departs from Shimbashi, just the machine and push the lowest fare button
south of Ginza, crosses the Rainbow Bridge, (130 on JR, 160 to 170 on subway lines).
and terminates in Ariake, on an artificial is- When you get to your destination, you can
land in Tokyo Bay. The Shimbashi terminal correct the fare at an attended ticket gate or at
is above ground and on the eastern side of JR a fare-adjustment machine (see below).
Shimbashi Station. All vending machines for all lines accept
1000 notes and most accept 10,000 (there
OTHER LINES are pictures of the bills accepted on the ma-
Most of the private lines service suburban areas chines). Dont forget to pick up the bills you
outside Tokyo, but some of them also connect get in change.
with popular sightseeing areas. The private Two buttons on the machine could come
lines almost always represent better value for in handy if you completely bungle the opera-
money than the JR lines. The ones you are tion. First is the tori-keshi (; cancel)
most likely to use are Shibuyas Tky Tyoko button, which is usually marked in English.
Line, which runs south to Yokohama; Shin- The second is the yobidashi (; call)
jukus Odaky Line, which runs southwest out button, which will alert a staff member that
to Hakone (p225); and Asakusas Tbu Nikk you need assistance (staff sometimes pop out
Line, which goes north to Nikk (p221). from a hidden door between the machines it
can be surprising).
Of course, many travellers and even long-
Subway Lines term residents never bother to figure out the
TRANSPORT TRAIN
ticket machines to avoid congestion.
Youll need different tickets for the two
subway systems, but the automated ticket ma-
chines sell transfer tickets (70), which allow
you to transfer from one system to another
for without buying another full-price ticket.
The button for this ticket is usually marked
only in Japanese (; norikae). To save
yourself time and hassle, dont bother with
transfer tickets buy a Pasmo card or Tokyo
Combination Ticket instead (see right).
In the case of JR stations, there will be signs
(sometimes but not always in both English
and Japanese) indicating the Midori-no-
Madoguchi (; Green Window) ticket
counter, which is usually posted with a green
sign. Here you can buy bullet train tickets,
make reservations and buy special passes; in
smaller stations this is where you ask for in-
formation as well.
PREPAID TICKETS
If plan to travel on JR lines for more than a
few days, consider buying a prepaid JR IO
card, which can be found in most JR subway
stations. IO cards come in denominations
of 1000, 3000 and 5000 and can be pur-
chased from some JR ticket machines. Insert
the card into the automated turnstiles as you
would a normal ticket, but dont forget to
grab it as you exit the turnstile! The turnstiles
will automatically deduct the minimum fare
as you enter the train system, and then any
amount above that figure, if necessary, as you
transfer and/or exit. If you have less than 160
left on the card, you will not be able to enter
the subway system. Take the card to a ticket
machine, then insert the card and whatever
lonelyplanet.com
day pass that can be used on all JR, subway
and bus lines within the Tokyo metropolitan
area. It is available at most Green Window
ticket counters.
If youre planning on hopping on and off
the Yurikamome, a day pass (800) is a good
deal. These should be purchased from the
ticket machines in Shimbashi prior to depart-
ing for Odaiba.
Those planning to spend an extended pe-
riod of time in Tokyo should strongly consider
getting either a Suica or a Pasmo smart card.
In the past, the Suica card was solely reserved
for JR lines, and the Pasmo card for the Tokyo
Metro and Toei Metro subway lines. However,
following the 2007 collaboration between all
of the Tokyo transportation systems including
the private lines, either card now works on
any line. This is an incredible convenience as
you can effortless move between systems with
a swipe of a card.
The Suica Card (2000, including a 500
deposit) is the one that most commuters used
to use for daily rides on the JR system, while
the Pasmo Card (2000, including a 500 de-
posit) is the one that most commuter used to
use for daily rides on the subway. These days
however, both cards are essentially one and
the same, so it doesnt matter which one you
choose. Fares are automatically deducted at
the end of a journey and you can replenish
the value of the card as needed.
Purchase Suica cards at vending machines
or at ticket counters in JR stations and Pasco
cards at vending machine or at ticket counters
in Tokyo Metro and Toei Metro stations. Con-
veniently, the Suica and Pasmo cards can be
swiped over the wicket without being removed

Tokyo is also home to no less than 13 sub-
way lines, of which eight are Tokyo Metro
Company lines and four are Toei lines. It is
not particularly important to remember this
distinction as the services are essentially the
same and have good connections from one
to the other, although they do operate under
separate ticketing systems.
The colour-coding and regular English
signposting make the system easy to use. For
instance, youll quickly learn that the Ginza
Line is orange and that the Marunouchi Line
is red. Perhaps the most confusing part is fig-
uring out where to surface when you have
reached your destination there is almost
always a large number of subway exits. For-
tunately, the exits are numbered and maps are
posted, usually close to the ticket turnstiles.
242
appropriate fare when buying tickets, particu-
larly for short inner-city hops. They just grab
the cheapest ticket and are on their way. If you
choose to do this, you have two choices upon
arrival at your destination: an attended ticket
gate or the fare-adjustment machine.
At an attended gate, simply hand over your
ticket and the attendant will inform you of the
additional fare. A fare-adjustment machine is
just as simple and saves time if the gate is con-
gested. Look for fare-adjustment machines,
usually lit up with yellow signs, near the exit
turnstiles. Insert your ticket into the slot near
the top of the machine. The screen will tell you
how much to pay, then spit out your change
(if any) and a new ticket. Insert this ticket into
the exit turnstiles, and off you go. Fare-adjust-
ment machines usually have English instruc-
amount is necessary to bring the total on
the card to 160. The machine will then spit
out a new ticket and the now worthless JR
IO card.
Much like the JR IO card, the Passnet card
is a boon for anyone travelling the Tokyo sub-
ways. Passnet cards are sold by Tokyo Metro
(SF Metro Card) or the Toei subway system
(T-Card). These prepaid cards are valid for all
the different subway lines and eliminate the
need to buy several tickets for one journey.
Purchase Passnet cards from ordinary auto-
mated ticket machines with a Passnet logo
(look for an orange-and-white running figure
presumably zipping through turnstiles). Cards
are sold in denominations of 1000, 3000
and 5000. Insert the amount, push the Pass-
net button, then the cash amount button.
TRANSPORT TRAIN
from a wallet or bag. You can even use it to
pay for items in stores, vending machines and
baggage lockers in stations. When you return
your Suica or Pasmo card at a station office,
youll be refunded the 500 deposit that was
included with the initial 2000 purchase.
Another pass offered by JR is the Japan Rail
Pass (www.japanrailpass.net), allowing for unre-
stricted travel on JR trains throughout Japan.
A seven-day pass costs 28,300 and must be
purchased before arriving in Japan; 14-day
and 21-day passes are also available, though
if youre planning on spending most of your
time in Tokyo, this pass will not be of benefit
to you. On the other hand, if you are planning
on visiting other cities or on making some
short day trips (see p218), the seven-day pass
could save you a little money.
243
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com
Stations
Navigating your way around train stations in
Tokyo can be confusing, particularly at some
of the more gigantic and complex stations such
as Shinjuku Station. The key is to know where
youre going before you get to the station. Most
stations have adequate English signposting,
with large yellow signs on the platforms post-
ing exit numbers and often including local
destinations, such as large hotels, department
stores and embassies. When possible, find out
which exit to use when you get directions to a
destination. Street maps of the area are usually
posted near each exit.
Many stations simply have four main exits:
north, south, east and west. Since one station
will usually have several different exits, you
should get your bearings and decide where
to exit while still on the platform. If you have
your destination written down, you can go to
an attended gate and ask the station attendant
to direct you to the correct exit. To help you
along weve included in this guidebook exit
details for each listing where possible.
Modern Japanese spend a good part of their
lives on trains, a fact that is reflected in the
wide range of services available at most sta-
tions. Most stations have left-luggage lockers,
which can hold medium-sized bags (back-
TRANSPORT TRAIN
244
packs wont usually fit). These lockers often
come in several sizes and cost from 200 to
600. Storage is good for 24 hours, after which
your bags will be removed and taken to the
station office.
All train stations have toilets, almost all of
which are free of charge. Bring toilet paper
though as it is not always provided (this is
why advertising in the form of tissue packets
handed out on street corners is big business).
Its also a good idea to pick up a handkerchief
at the 100 shops as paper towels and hand
driers are also not always available.
At the vast majority of stations, you can
also find several options for food. The smallest
of these are kiosks, which sell snacks, drinks,
magazines, newspapers etc. Next up are stores
selling ekiben (train-station boxed lunches),
which are obligatory if you truly want to ex-
perience the sophistication of Japanese long-
distance rail travel, and tachi-kui, which are
stand-and-eat noodle restaurants. Most of
these places require that you purchase a food
ticket from a vending machine, which you
hand to an attendant upon entry (most ma-
chines have pictures on the buttons to help
you order). Finally, large stations might also
have a choice of several sit-down places, most
of which will have plastic food models dis-
played in the front window.
 Lonely Planet Publications

D I R EC TO RY
BUSINESS HOURS Tom Sawyer Agency (%3770-9530) Sitters for newborns
to 12-year-olds are available 24 hours a day; arrange
Most businesses are open from 9am to 5pm
services by 8pm the day before.
Monday to Friday, with some also open on
Saturday. Banks are normally open Monday
to Friday from 9am to noon, and between Alternatively, if youre staying at a hotel, staff
2pm and 5pm (some ATMs, however, may be there might be able to refer you to a reliable
accessed 24 hours a day, seven days a week, baby-sitter.
but this can be rare). Shops and supermarkets

DIRECTORY BUSINESS HOURS

are usually open from 10am to 8pm daily.
Restaurants are generally open for lunch from
11.30am or noon to 2.30pm or 3pm and for
dinner from 6pm or 6.30pm to 9pm or 10pm,
with last orders taken about half an hour be-
fore closing. Variations on the above opening
hours are listed in reviews.
CHILDREN
Tokyo, like the rest of Japan, is unreservedly
child-friendly. In addition to loads of kid-
centred activities (see the boxed text, p71),
the city also offers numerous playgrounds
and parks where children, and parents, can
unwind. If youre travelling with small chil-
dren, common items such as nappies (dia-
pers) can be found at any pharmacy. Baby
formula and other special dietary needs will,
of course, be labelled in Japanese, so bringing
such items from home could save time and
frustration.
Baby-sitting
Listed are a few recommended services pro-
CLIMATE
Tokyo kicks off its year with cold winter days
and the odd snowfall. Although temperatures
occasionally drop below freezing, winter (De-
cember to February) is usually reasonable if
you have the right kind of clothes. Spring
(March to May) brings pleasant, warm days,
and, of course, cherry blossoms (see the boxed
text, p20) early April is probably the best time
to view the blooms. Summer (June to August)
is hot and muggy, a time when overcrowded
trains and long walks can feel irritating. Late
June can see torrential rains that pound the
city during monsoon seasons. The tempera-
ture and humidity are at their worst in August.
Apart from spring, autumn (September to
November) is the most pleasant season as
temperatures cool down to a cosy level and
days are often clear and fine. Autumn also
means the return of the dramatic foliage sea-
son, when the parks and green areas of the
city mellow into varying hues of orange and
red. For more information see p16.
Average
TOKYO 17m (59ft) Max/Min

viding English-speaking sitters. Although C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm

some of these organisations require an an- 40 104 100 10 250

nual membership fee, they may waive it if 30 86 80 8 200

you ask for introductory or trial rates. Prices 20 68 60 6 150

vary considerably depending on the number
of children, time required and your location 10 50 40 4 100

in Tokyo. 0 32 20 2 50

Japan Baby-Sitter Service (%3423-1251; www.jbs -10 14 0 0 0

-mom.co.jp, in Japanese) One of Japans oldest and
considered one of its most reliable services.
Poppins Service (%3447-2100; www.poppins.co.jp
/english/index.html) Nannies versed in early childhood
development and first aid can also speak English, French,
German or Italian.
Tokyo Domestic Service Center (%3584-4769) All sitters
required to have at least 10 years experience with children.
Call a day ahead to arrange an English-speaking sitter.
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
Customs allowances include the usual tobacco
products plus three 750mL bottles of alcohol,
57g of perfume, and gifts and souvenirs up
to a value of 200,000 or its equivalent. You
must be older than 20 years to qualify for
these allowances. The penalties for importing
illegal drugs are very severe.
245
lonelyplanet.com
Although the Japanese are no longer cen-
soring pubic hair in domestically produced
pornography, customs officers will still con-
fiscate any pornographic materials in which
pubic hair is visible.
There are no limits on the importation of
foreign or Japanese currency. The exportation
of foreign currency is also unlimited, but there
is a 5 million export limit for Japanese cur-
rency. Visit the website of Japan Customs (www
.customs.go.jp/english/) for more information on
Japans customs regulations.
DIRECTORY ELECTRICITY
ELECTRICITY
Japanese plugs are the type with two flat pins,
which are identical to two-pin North American
plugs. The Japanese electric current is 100V
AC, an odd voltage found almost nowhere
else in the world (appliances with a two-pin
plug made for use in North America will work
without an adaptor, but may be a bit sluggish).
Tokyo and eastern Japan are on 50Hz, western
Japan is on 60Hz. Transformers are easy to find
at one of Japans plentiful electronics shops.
Check www.kropla.com for detailed infor-
mation on matters of voltage and plugs.
EMBASSIES
Australia (Map pp967; %5232-4111; www.australia
.or.jp/english/; 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku)
Belgium (Map p56; %3262-0191; www.diplomatie
.be/tokyo; 5 Nibanch, Chiyoda-ku)
Canada (Map p92; %5412-6200; www.canadanet.or.jp;
7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku)
France (Map pp967; %5420-8800; www.ambafrance
-jp.org; 4-11-44 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku)
Germany (Map pp967; %5791-7700; www.tokyo.diplo
.de; 4-5-10 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku)
Ireland (Map p56; %3263-0695; www.irishembassy.jp;
2-10-7 Kjimachi, Chiyoda-ku)
Italy (Map pp967; %3453-5291; www.embitaly.jp;
2-5-4 Mita, Minato-ku)
Malaysia (Map p106; %3476-3840; www.kln.gov
.my/perwakilan/tokyo/; 20-16 Nanpeidaich, Shibuya-ku)
Netherlands (Map pp967; %5401-0411; www.oranda
.or.jp; 3-6-3 Shiba-ken, Minato-ku)
New Zealand (Map p106; %3467-2271; www.nzem
bassy.com; 20-40 Kamiyamach, Shibuya-ku)
South Korea (Map pp967; %3452-7611; www.mofat
.go.kr; 1-2-5 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku)
246
UK (Map p56; %5211-1100; www.uknow.or.jp/be_e;
1 Ichibanch, Chiyoda-ku)
USA (Map p92; %3224-5000; http://tokyo.usembassy
.gov; 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku)
EMERGENCY
Although most emergency operators youll
reach in Tokyo dont speak English, the op-
erators will immediately refer you to someone
who does. Japan Helpline is a service that pro-
vides assistance to foreigners living in Japan.
Ambulance (%119)
Fire (%119)
Japan Helpline (%0120-46-1997)
Police (%110)
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
With the possible exception of Thailand,
Japan is Asias most enlightened nation with
regard to the sexual orientation of foreigners.
Tokyo in particular is a tolerant city where the
bars and clubs host folks of all predilections.
Tokyo has an active gay scene and a small, but
very lively, gay quarter (Shinjuku-nichme).
Check Tokyo Classified or Tokyo Journal for
listings of gay and lesbian clubs. Outside
Tokyo, youll find it difficult to break into
the local scene unless you spend considerable
time in a place or have local contacts who can
show you around.
Same-sex couples probably wont encoun-
ter too many problems travelling in Japan.
Some travellers have reported being turned
away or grossly overcharged when checking
into love hotels with a partner of the same sex.
Apart from this, its unlikely that youll run
into difficulties. There are no legal restraints
on same-sex sexual activities in Japan apart
from the usual age restrictions, although it
does pay to be discreet with public displays
of affection.
Cineastes visiting in summer should check
the local listings for screenings of the annual
Tokyo International Lesbian & Gay Film & Video Festival
(%6475-0388; www.tokyo-lgff.org).
The following are some websites well worth
perusing when planning your travels:
Fridae (www.fridae.com/cityguides/tokyo/tk-intro.php)
Gay Scene Japan (www.members.tripod.co.jp/GSJ)
Utopia Asia (www.utopia-asia.com)
See also the boxed text, p180.
HEALTH Dr Trish Batchelor
As a developed city, Tokyo enjoys an excel-
lent standard of medical care. Air pollution
is one health issue, but this is unlikely to
affect most travellers, apart from those with
chronic lung conditions. Travellers have a
low risk of contracting infectious diseases but
should ensure that their basic vaccinations
are up to date and that they carry a basic
medical kit to deal with simple problems such
as respiratory infections, minor injuries and
stomach upsets.
At the time this book went to press, human
cases of Avian influenza (bird flu) in Japan
were extremely limited, and the risk to travel-
lers was low. The strain in question is known
as Influenza A H5N1 or simply the H5N1
virus, a highly contagious form of Avian in-
fluenza. Travellers to the region should avoid
contact with any birds and should ensure that
any poultry is thoroughly cooked before con-
sumption. See the World Health Organiza-
tion website (www.who.int/en/) for the latest
information.
Its also a good idea to consult your gov-
ernments travel-health website before de-
parture.
Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au)
Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca)
New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
UK (www.nathac.org)
USA (wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/)
Medical Services
A national health-insurance plan covers Japa-
nese who wish to visit a doctor, as well as
foreign residents who are legally employed.
When seeking medical care, be sure to bring
proof of your travel or health insurance that
clearly indicates that youre covered for any
treatment you receive. If you arrive without
insurance, its possible to see a doctor at either
a hospital or a clinic, but you will be expected
to pay in full at the time of service.
If your health insurance doesnt cover you
for all medical expenses incurred abroad, you
should consider purchasing supplemental
travel insurance before leaving home. Evacu-
ations in an emergency can cost well over
US$100,000.
Travellers should be aware that medi-
cal services in Japan might not be on par
with those of other developed nations. For
simple complaints, you should be fine; for
emergencies, you might have no choice. For
lonelyplanet.com
elective procedures and anything else that
can wait until you get home, we suggest
you do just that.
Most hospitals and clinics do not have doc-
tors and nurses who speak English, but weve
listed a few good ones that do.
CLINICS
International Medical Center of Japan (Map p122;
%3202-7181; www.imcj.go.jp, in Japanese; 1-21-1
Toyama, Shinjuku-ku; bToei edo Line to Wakamatsu-
kawada, main exit) Though the websites in Japanese,
DIRECTORY HEALTH
operators on the phone speak English.
National Medical Clinic (Map pp967; %3473-2057;
www.nmclinic.net; 2nd fl, 5-16-11 Minami-Azabu, Minato-
ku; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exits 1 & 2) English-speaking
physicians practise general medicine here, and there are
also a few specialised services.
Tokyo British Clinic (Map p102; %5458-6099; www
.tokyobritishclinic.com; Daikanyama Y Bldg, 2nd fl,
2-13-7 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; hemergency service
24hr; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu, west exit)
Founded and run by a British physician, this clinic also
offers paediatric, obstetric/gynaecological and referral
services.
Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic (Map pp967; %3436-
3028, emergency 3432-6134; www.tmsc.jp; 2nd fl, Mori
Bldg, 32, 3-4-30 Shiba-ken, Minato-ku; hemergency
service 24hr; bHibiya Line to Kamiyach, main exit)
This well-equipped clinic is staffed with English-speaking
Japanese and foreign physicians.
EMERGENCY ROOMS
Japanese Red Cross Medical Centre (Map pp967;
%3400-1311; www.med.jrc.or.jp, in Japanese; 4-1-22
Hiro-o, Shibuya-ku; h24hr; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o,
exits 1 & 2)
Seibo International Catholic Hospital (Map pp489;
%3951-1111; www.seibokai.or.jp, in Japanese; 2-5-1
Nakaochiai, Shinjuku-ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Mejiro,
main exit)
St Lukes International Hospital (Map p65; %3541-
5151; www.luke.or.jp; 9-1 Akashich, Ch-ku; h24hr;
bHibiya Line to Tsukiji, exits 3 & 4)
PHARMACIES
Pharmacies are located throughout Tokyo,
although a bit of Japanese helps in getting
the medication or item you need, as most
pharmacists only speak basic (if any at all)
English. Although Japanese law prohibits
pharmacists from selling medications from
247
lonelyplanet.com
other countries, they will generally be able to
help you find a Japanese medication that is
either identical or similar to the one you take
at home. The pharmacies listed below cater
to English-speaking customers.
American Pharmacy (Map pp523; %5220-7716;
www.tomods.jp, in Japanese; basement 1st fl,
Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku;
h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun &
holidays; bJR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo,
Marunouchi exits) The American Pharmacy is staffed by
English-speaking pharmacists, and credit cards are ac-
cepted. Theres another branch inside Ueno Station (Map
DIRECTORY HEALTH
p72) on the JR Yamanote Line.
National Azabu Supermarket Pharmacy (Map
pp967; %3442-3495; 4-5-2 Minami Azabu, Minato-ku;
h9.30am-7pm; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exit 2) Inside
the National Azabu supermarket (p166).
Recommended Vaccinations
No vaccinations are required for Japan. Your
routine vaccinations should be up to date,
though travellers at special risk should ad-
ditionally consider the following:
Japanese B encephalitis There is no risk in Tokyo, but
there is risk in rural areas of all islands. The risk is highest
in the western part of the country from July to October.
Tick-borne encephalitis This is present only in the wooded
areas of Hokkaid and is transmitted between April and
October. The vaccine is readily available in Europe but can
be difficult to find elsewhere.
Diseases
AIDS & STDS
AIDS and other STDs can, of course, be con-
tracted anywhere in the world. People carry-
ing STDs often show no signs of infection.
Always wear a condom with a new partner;
however, some diseases such as herpes and
warts cannot be prevented even by using
condoms. If, after a sexual encounter, you
develop any rash, lumps, discharge, or pain
when passing urine, seek medical attention
immediately. If you have been sexually active
during your travels, have a check-up on your
return home.
Rates of HIV infection in Japan have in-
creased significantly in the last couple of
years. It is predicted that this trend will con-
tinue, due in part to unsuccessful government
awareness programmes. The majority of cases
in Japan are contracted via sexual contact, and
more than 60% of newly infected people are
under 25 years of age.
248
Condoms are widely available in Tokyo,
but generally only locally produced varieties,
which tend to be on the small side. If you
think youre going to need them, its a good
idea to bring your own, since foreign-made
condoms can be difficult to find.
DIARRHOEA
Tokyo is a low-risk destination, and the tap
water is safe to drink. You could still be un-
lucky, however, so carrying some antidiar-
rhoea medication in your medical kit is a
good idea.
HEPATITIS B
Hepatitis B is a virus spread via bodily fluids,
eg through sexual contact, shared needles
or unclean medical facilities. It is also the
only sexually transmitted disease that can be
prevented by vaccination. In the short term,
hepatitis B can cause the typical symptoms of
hepatitis jaundice, tiredness, nausea but
long-term consequences can include liver
cancer and cirrhosis. Long-term travellers or
those who might be exposed to bodily fluids
should be vaccinated.
INFLUENZA
Influenza (the flu) is primarily transmitted
from November to April. The flu is caused
by a virus and gives you a high fever, gen-
eral body aches and generalised respiratory
symptoms such as cough, a sore throat and
runny nose. If you do happen to get the flu
you should rest up and take symptomatic
treatment such as pain killers antibiotics
wont help. All high-risk individuals should
ensure that they have been vaccinated before
travelling, and all travellers should consider
the vaccine if visiting in the winter months.
Under some circumstances your doctor
might recommend taking antiviral drugs to
treat the flu.
JAPANESE B ENCEPHALITIS
Japanese B encephalitis (JBE) is not present
in Tokyo, but is found in the rural areas of all
of the islands, particularly in the west. It is a
viral disease transmitted by mosquitoes and is
present during the months of July to October.
If you are intending to spend more than a
month in an affected rural area, you should
consider getting vaccinated. JBE is a serious
disease without any specific treatment 30%
of those infected will die and a third will suffer
permanent brain damage.
Environmental Hazards
AIR POLLUTION
Air pollution is a problem in Tokyo, although
the government is taking steps to improve the
situation. If you have a lung condition such
as asthma or chronic airways disease, speak
to your doctor before you travel, and ensure
that you have enough of your regular medica-
tion with you.
FUGU (PUFFER FISH)
This famous delicacy (also known as blowfish
or globefish) is strictly controlled, and there
have been no deaths related to its ingestion
for more than 30 years.
Medications
Some medications cannot be taken into
Japan. If you take any regular medication,
you should check with your local Japanese
embassy whether there is any restriction on
taking it into the country.
Traditional Medicine
If you decide to have any traditional medi-
cal treatments, make sure you tell your
practitioner if you are taking any Western
medicines. The two best-known forms of
traditional Japanese medicine are reiki and
shiatsu.
REIKI
Reiki claims to heal by charging the life force
(ki) with positive energy, thus allowing it
to flow in a natural, healthy manner. In a
standard treatment reiki energy flows from
the practitioners hands into the client. The
practitioner places their hands on or near the
clients body in a series of positions that are
each held for between three and 10 minutes.
People become practitioners after receiving
an attunement from a reiki master.
SHIATSU
Shiatsu is a form of manual therapy incor-
porating gentle manipulations and stretches
derived from physiotherapy and chiroprac-
tic, combined with pressure techniques ex-
erted through the fingers or thumbs. The
philosophy underlying shiatsu is similar to
many traditional Asian medical systems and
involves the bodys vital energy (ki) flow-
ing through the body in a series of chan-
nels known as meridians. If the ki is blocked
from flowing freely, illness can occur; hence
shiatsu is used to improve the flow of ki.
lonelyplanet.com
Shiatsu was officially recognised by the Japa-
nese government in 1955 as a therapy in its
own right.
HOLIDAYS
Japan has 15 national public holidays. When
a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the fol-
lowing Monday is taken as a holiday. You
can expect travel and lodgings to be fully
booked during Shgatsu (New Year; 29
December to 6 January), Golden Week (29
April to 5 May) and the O-Bon festival in
DIRECTORY HOLIDAYS
mid-August; see p16 for more information
on festivals. During this time, about the only
places open are convenience stores and fast-
food joints; if you dont want to survive on
potato chips and fries, make appropriate
preparations.
Japans national public holidays are as
follows:
Ganjitsu (New Years Day) 1 January
Seijin-no-hi (Coming-of-Age Day) Second Monday in
January
Kenkoku Kinem-bi (National Foundation Day) 11 February
Shumbun-no-hi (Spring Equinox) 20 or 21 March
Midori-no-hi (Green Day) 29 April
Kemp Kinem-bi (Constitution Day) 3 May
Kokumin-no-Saijitsu (Adjoining Holiday Between Two
Holidays) 4 May
Kodomo-no-hi (Childrens Day) 5 May
Umi-no-hi (Marine Day) Third Monday in July
Keir-no-hi (Respect-for-the-Aged Day) Third Monday in
September
Shbun-no-hi (Autumn Equinox) 23 or 24 September
Taiiku-no-hi (Health and Sports Day) Second Monday in
October
Bunka-no-hi (Culture Day) 3 November
Kinr Kansha-no-hi (Labour Thanksgiving Day) 23
November
Tenn-no-Tanjbi (Emperors Birthday) 23 December
INTERNET ACCESS
For a city as efficiency-obsessed as technology-
loving Tokyo, wi-fi access is less than wide-
spread. But for the millions emailing away
via the keitai (mobile phones) attached to
their thumbs, wi-fi is probably irrelevant
anyway.
Still, you neednt search too hard for wi-fi
hotspots. NTT Communications sells 24-hour
249
lonelyplanet.com
passes (500) to its wireless network, with
hotspots throughout Tokyo. Prepaid cards can
be purchased at some branches of Bic Camera
and Prince Hotels; check NTT Communi-
cations website (www.ntt.com) for hotspot
locations and purchasing information. Some
hotels offer wi-fi, but usually for a fee: from
1000 to 2000.
Free wi-fi is scattered around Tokyo in
cafs, public buildings and JR stations
check the Freespot access map (www.freespot.com/
users/map_e.html) for locations offering fee-free
wi-fi.
If you havent brought your own laptop,
DIRECTORY LEGAL MATTERS
youll find an abundance of internet cafs in
every major neighbourhood in Tokyo. Rates
vary, usually ranging from 200 to 500 per
hour, and most connections are fast DSL or
ADSL.
Most hotels have in-room LAN ports and
can rent or sell you a LAN cable; electronics
shops also carry them for about 500.
LEGAL MATTERS
Japanese police have extraordinary powers
compared with their Western counterparts.
For starters, Japanese police have the right to
detain a suspect without charging them for
up to three days, after which a prosecutor
can decide to extend this period for another
20 days. Police also have the authority to
choose whether to allow a suspect to phone
their embassy or lawyer or not, although, if
you do find yourself in police custody, you
should insist that you will not cooperate in
any way until allowed to make such a call.
Your embassy is the first place you should
call if given the chance.
Police will speak almost no English; in-
sist that a tsuyakusha (interpreter) be sum-
moned; police are legally bound to provide
one before proceeding with any questioning.
Even if you are able to speak Japanese, it is
best to deny it and stay with your native
language.
For legal counselling in English and some
other languages, seek out these resources:
Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreigners
(%5689-0518; h1-4.30pm Tue & Thu) Free con-
sultation and English-Japanese translation on problems
regarding human rights.
Tokyo English Life Line (TELL; %5774-0992; h9am-
11pm)
Tokyo Foreign Residents Advisory Center (%5320-
7744; h9.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)
250
MAPS
Stop by the Tourist Information Center of the
Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO;
p255) to pick up a free copy of its superb Tour-
ist Map of Tokyo. To successfully interpret and
navigate Tokyos challenging address system,
longer-term visitors might consider looking
up Kodanshas Tokyo City Atlas, a bilingual
guide stocked by larger bookshops. Both Ko-
dansha and Shobunsha (Japanese publishers)
publish bilingual atlases and fold-out maps
(prices start at 700) that are available at most
of Tokyos bookshops (see p143 for listings).
The Tokyo Metro Company puts out
the free Tokyo Metro Guide, with English-
language explanations on buying tickets and
special deals. Find these near the ticket ma-
chines and turnstiles in most subway stations.
MONEY
Be warned that cold hard cash is the way to pay
in Tokyo. Although credit cards are becoming
more common, cash is still the payment of
choice, and travellers cheques are rarely ac-
cepted outside of large hotels and department
stores. Do not assume that you can pay with a
credit card, and always carry sufficient cash.
The currency in Japan is the yen (), and
banknotes and coins are easily distinguish-
able. There are 1, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 500 never assume you can pay using a credit card.
coins; and 1000, 2000, 5000 and 10,000
banknotes (the 2000 note is very rarely seen).
The 1 coin is an aluminium lightweight coin;
the bronze-coloured 5 and silver-coloured
50 coins both have a hole punched in the
middle. Note that some vending machines
do not accept older 500 coins. Prices may be
listed using the kanji for yen ().
ATMs
ATMs are almost as common as vending ma-
chines in Tokyo. Unfortunately, most of these
do not accept foreign-issued cards. Even if they
display Visa and MasterCard logos, most ac-
cept only Japan-issued versions of these cards.
Also, 24-hour ATMs are exceedingly rare.
Fortunately, Citibank operates 24-hour
international ATMs in major areas includ-
ing Roppongi, Harajuku, Omote-sand and
Shinjuku. Better still, the Japanese postal
system has recently linked all of its ATMs
to the international Cirrus and Plus cash
networks (and some credit-card networks),
making life a breeze for travellers to Tokyo.
Most larger post offices (h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
noon Sat) have postal ATMs. Press the handy
button marked English Guidance for Eng-
lish instructions.
Changing Money
In theory, banks and post offices will change
all major currencies. In practice, some banks
refuse to exchange anything but US-dollar
cash and travellers cheques. Note also that
the currencies of neighbouring Taiwan (New
Taiwan dollar) and Korea (won) are not easy
to change, so you should change these into
yen or US dollars before arriving in Japan.
With a passport, you can change cash or
travellers cheques at any Authorised Foreign
Exchange Bank (signs are displayed in Eng-
lish), major post offices, some large hotels and
most big department stores. Note that you
receive a better exchange rate when withdraw-
ing cash from ATMs than when exchanging
cash or travellers cheques in Tokyo. Be aware
that many banks place a limit on the amount
of cash you can withdraw in one day (often
around US$400).
Exchange rates are listed on the inside front
cover of this guide.
Credit Cards
As Japan is very much a cash-based economy,
For businesses which do take credit card, Visa is
most widely accepted, followed by MasterCard,
American Express and Diners Club. Getting a
cash advance using your foreign-issued credit
card is nearly impossible, but Sumitomo Mitsui
banks (SMBC) give cash advances if you bring
your passport with you. The main credit-card
companies all have offices in Tokyo.
American Express (%0120-02-0120; h24hr)
MasterCard (%5728-5200)
Visa (%00531-44-0022; h24hr)
NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
The three English dailies listed below serve the
citys international community and are sold at
most of the big train-station kiosks. Two Eng-
lish magazines, the weekly Metropolis and the
quarterly Tokyo Journal, round out coverage
of local news, dining and entertainment.
Asahi Shimbun/International Herald Tribune (www
.asahi.com/english/)
Daily Yomiuri (www.yomiuri.co.jp/dy)
Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp)
ORGANISED TOURS
lonelyplanet.com
Though exploring Tokyo on your own offers
distinct pleasures, it can be daunting at first.
Listed are several touring companies that can
help introduce you to the metropolis by land,
sea, air or even on foot. Most have websites in
English, as well as English-speaking staff. All
prices quoted in this section are per person.
Boat
If youve come with a gang and want a very
Japanese experience, Komatsuya (%3851-2780;
DIRECTORY NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES
www.komatuya.net, in Japanese; tours per person 10,000-
20,000) arranges for groups of 15 and up to
cruise the citys waterways while enjoying
Japanese cuisine in a tatami-room setting on
a Japanese-style boat. Even the website is in
Japanese.
Sumida-Gawa Water Buses (%3841-9178; www
.suijobus.co.jp/english/; tours 200-800; bGinza Line to
Asakusa, exit 5, or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa, exit A5 for
Azuma-bashi Pier) offers extremely reasonably
priced ferry rides under the 12 bridges up
and down Sumida-gawa (see p87). A unique
new boat, Himiko, was designed especially for
Suij Bus by the cartoonist Matsumoto Reiji
and looks like a bug from the future.
Symphony (%3798-8101; www.symphony-cruise.co.jp;
tours adult 1500-3800, child 750-1900; bJR Yamanote Line
to JR Hamamatsu-cho, south exit, for Hinode Pier) offers
two-hour day and evening cruises around the
bay, departing from Hinode Pier. If you lunch
or dine on board, youll pay 5000 to 21,000
(including passage) depending on the type of
meal you choose.
The restaurant boat Vingt-et-un (%3436-2121;
cruises from 2040, dinner cruises from 7000; bYurikamome
Line to Takshiba for Takeshiba Pier) offers evening din-
ner excursions as well as afternoon cruises on
weekends. The evening dinner cruises usually
include excellent French meals. Reservations
are essential. Passengers may be able to board
without purchasing a meal, but there are no
special seats and, no, you cant bring your
own food.
Bus
The well-established, commercial tour opera-
tors recommended here all have an extensive
line-up of tours, including many in English.
While buses are their stock in trade, some also
offer boat and walking tours.
Without getting fancy, Gray Line buses
(%3595-5948; www.jgl.co.jp/inbound/index.htm; tours
251
lonelyplanet.com
4000-9600) chug along to places such as the
Imperial Palace, Asakusa, Sens-ji and the
National Diet buildings. Tours run for either
a half- or full day and sometimes include
meals, usually at traditional Japanese restau-
rants. Pick-up and drop-off are available at
dozens of hotels.
One of the longest-standing tour operators
is Hato Bus Tours (%3435-6081; www.hatobus.com; tours
3500-12,000), which offers both half- and full-
day tours around the city. It hits big spots
such as Sens-ji and Tsukiji Central Fish
Market, or offers tourists the chance to head
out on the bay. If youre feeling daunted by
DIRECTORY PHOTOGRAPHY
the subway, check out the subway tour that
alights at sites that recount the importance
and beauty of the Edo era. Some tours also
include meals.
If your time is limited, Hato also oper-
ates one-hour tours aboard the Hello Kitty Bus
(adult/child 1300/760) departing from Tokyo Sta-
tion (check for departure times with Hato
Bus Tours). One route covers basics such as
Nihombashi, Akihabara and Asakusa, and
the other goes west of the Imperial Palace.
Unlike with other tours, you stay on the bus
the whole time and guides narrate in Japanese
only; English narration is available via head-
phones. Apart from that, its a pretty typical
tour bus, although it is decorated with the cat
with no mouth.
Within the city, the offerings of Sunrise
Tours (% 5796-5454; www.jtbgmt.com/sunrisetour/;
tours 3500-9800) are not much different from
those of the other tour companies, but as a
subsidiary of Japan Travel Bureau (JTB), the
countrys largest travel company, it boasts
an extensive roster of day trips and tours in
other parts of Japan. Some are return trips
from Tokyo, while others originate in other
big Japanese cities. If you have got time to
kill at the airport, it even offers a worthwhile
tour of Narita city.
Helicopter
Excel Air (%047-380-5555; www.excel-air.com; Urayasu
Heliport; flights adult/child from 8000/4000; h2pm-dusk;
bJR Keiyo Line to Urayasu then 15min by taxi) offers five-
to 20-minute flights, which are a dramatic way
to take in the skyline of Ginza, the Imperial
Palace or Akihabara during the day, at sunset
or after dark. Helicopters fly up to eight peo-
ple. Saturday and Sunday flights cost about
25% more. Flights depart from Urayasu city,
east of Tokyo in Chiba Prefecture. Reserve a
seat in advance.
252
Walking
Operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Gov-
ernment, volunteer guide tours (www.tourism.metro
.tokyo.jp; for the first person free-2860 , may be less for
additional people) facilitate face-to-face contact
with real Tokyoites. Some volunteers speak
better English than others, but you cant beat
the price. Since the guides work on a volun-
teer basis, visitors pay only admission and
transport fees for themselves and the two
guides. Itineraries that involve no transport
or admissions cost nothing. The 10 routes
include the highly touristic (eg Asakusa) and
the less touristic (eg department-store food
floor). Tour sizes are limited to a handful
of people per tour; apply at least a few days
in advance.
PHOTOGRAPHY
Digital photographers will find all manner
of memory media, batteries and digital cam-
eras widely available. Japans photo shops
also offer a wide range of services for digital
photographers, including high-quality prints
from digital files.
Most photo-processing shops, as well as
department stores and even 7-Eleven con-
venience stores, can also transfer digital shots
onto CD for you; theres usually a two-day
turnaround period.
Tokyo is one of the best places in the
world to buy camera equipment, although
be aware that most products have Japanese
operating menus. However, some of the
larger electronics stores in Akihabara (p67)
stock export models with English-language
systems.
Youll have no problem finding print film
in Tokyo, and high-quality slide film is widely
available at camera shops throughout town
(see p146). Film processing is fast and eco-
nomical and standards are usually high.
Serious photographers might want to
pick up a copy of Lonely Planets Travel
Photography.
POST
The Japanese postal system is reliable and ef-
ficient and, for regular postcards and airmail
letters, has rates similar to those of other de-
veloped countries. The symbol for post offices
is a red T with a bar across the top on a white
background (). For information on courier
services see p238.
Opening Hours some main cities and tourist areas covered
lonelyplanet.com
in this guide.
District post offices (the main post office in
For local directory assistance, dial %104. To
a ward) are open 9am to 7pm weekdays and
place a domestic collect call, dial %106. For in-
9am to 3pm Saturday, and are closed Sunday
ternational directory assistance in English, dial
and public holidays. Local post offices are open
9am to 5pm weekdays and are closed Saturday, %0057. To place an international call through
the operator, dial %0051 (international opera-
Sunday and public holidays. Main post offices
tors almost always speak English).
in Tokyo, Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukero
have an after-hours window open 24 hours.
Mobile Phones
Postal Rates Before you stash your mobile (cell) phone
into your carry-on luggage, consider that
The airmail rate for postcards is 70 to any
your fancy tri-band GSM phone wont work
destination abroad; aerograms cost 90. Let-
DIRECTORY TELEPHONE
in Japan, unless it supports the nonubiq-
ters less than 25g are 90 to other countries
uitous CDMA standard. The good news is
within Asia, 110 to North America, Europe
that several companies now offer short-term
or Oceania (including Australia and New Zea-
mobile-phone rentals for travellers and busi-
land) and 130 to Africa and South America.
nesspeople. Rates are quite reasonable, from
One peculiarity of the Japanese postal system
around 3000 per week. Many offer free deliv-
is that you will be charged extra if your writ-
ing runs over onto the address side (the right
ery or have rental counters at Narita airport.
Check out the following outfits:
side) of a postcard.
DoCoMo (%0120-68-0100; www.docomosentu
.co.jp/english/)
Receiving & Sending Mail GoMobile (www.gomobile.co.jp/index_e.html)
Although any post office will hold mail for
collection, the poste restante concept is not PuPuRu (%0120-91-9226; www.pupuru.com/en/
well known and can cause confusion in index_en.html)
smaller neighbourhoods. The Tokyo Central
Rentafone Japan (%090-9621-7318; www.rentafone
Post Office (Map pp523; %3560-1139) can give you japan.com)
more information about large post offices that
can receive and handle your mail. Letters are
If youre planning on spending any extended
usually held for only 30 days before being re-
amount of time in Japan, we cant stress how
turned to sender. When inquiring about mail
important it is to get a mobile phone. The
for collection ask for kyoku dome ybin.
Japanese spend every waking hour of the day
Mail can be sent to, from or within Japan
mailing their friends from their phones, and
when addressed in Roman script (romaji),
its virtually impossible to stay connected to
but it should, of course, be written as clearly
people if you dont have one. If you have a
as possible.
valid work visa, its possible to sign a one-
year contract and get a phone for as cheap
TELEPHONE as 1 depending on the type of package you
choose. If you dont have a visa, you can still
The country code for Japan is %81. Japa-
nese telephone numbers consist of an area get a prepaid phone, though calling rates are
code (Tokyos is %03) plus a local number; significantly higher.
Mobile phone shops dot virtually every
Tokyo numbers usually consist of eight dig-
its. The area code is not used if dialling a street in Tokyo, so you shouldnt have any
problem finding what youre looking for. Most
Tokyo number from within Tokyo. You do
mobile phone shops have someone on hand
not dial an area codes first zero if dialling
from abroad. For example, when dialling who can speak English, or at least supply you
Tokyo from abroad, dial the international with English-language pamphlets explaining
access code of the country from which you the various contract options available.
are calling, then %81-3. If youre calling from
anywhere but Tokyo within Japan, dial %03
and then the number. Toll-free numbers begin
Public Phones
The Japanese public telephone system is very
with %0120. Also see the Quick Reference
well developed; there are a great many public
(inside front cover) for a list of area codes for
phones and they work almost 100% of the
253
lonelyplanet.com
time. Local calls cost 10 for three minutes.
Long-distance calls require a handful of coins
or a telephone card, which are used up as the
call progresses; unused 10 coins are returned
after the call is completed, but no change is
given on 100 coins. Its more economical to
make domestic calls by dialling outside the
standard business hours.
For local calls its still much easier to buy
a terefon kdo (prepaid phone card) than to
worry about having enough coins, as most
pay phones will accept phone cards. Prepaid
cards are available from vending machines
and convenience stores in 500 and 1000
DIRECTORY TIME
denominations (the latter throws in an extra
50 in calls). They can be used in most grey
or green pay phones, and the phones will dis-
play the remaining value of your card when
it is inserted.
With the exception of the IC card, the fol-
lowing cards can be used with any regular pay
phone in Japan.
Global Card These cards are only available at discount
ticket shops and some guesthouses.
IC Card Sold from machines that accompany IC phones,
these cards can only be used with the orange IC phones.
KDDI Superworld Card Find these cards at almost any
convenience store in Japan.
International Calls
International calls are best made using a
prepaid international phone card. You can
also call abroad on grey international ISDN
phones, usually found in phone booths marked
International & Domestic Card/Coin Phone.
Unfortunately, these are rare; look for them in
the lobbies of top-end hotels and at airports.
Reverse-charge (collect) international calls
can be made from any pay phone.
You can save money by dialling late at
night. Economy rates, with a discount of 20%,
apply 7pm to 11pm weekdays, and 8am to
11pm on weekends and public holidays. Dis-
count rates of 40% off the regular rate apply
11pm to 8am throughout the year.
In some youth hostels and guesthouses,
you will also find pink coin-only phones from
which you cannot make international calls
(although you can receive them).
If you find a public phone that allows
international calls, its more convenient to
use a phone card rather than coins. Calls are
charged by six-second units, so if you dont
have much to say, you can make a quick call
home for the minimum charge of 100.
254
Another option for making international
calls is to dial %0039 for home country di-
rect, which takes you straight through to a
local operator in the country dialled (your
home country direct code can be found in
phone books or by calling the international
operator on %0051). You can then make a
reverse-charge call or a credit-card call with
a phone card valid in that country.
Some dialling codes are given below:
Country Home Country Direct Dial
Australia %0039-61
%0039-1
Canada
China %0039-86
France %0039-33
New Zealand %0039-64
UK %0039-44
USA %0039-1
To make the call yourself, dial %001 (KDDI),
%0041 (ITJ), %0061 (IDC) or %0033
(NTT) theres very little difference in the
rates of these providers then the country
code, the local code and the number.
TIME
Tokyo local time is nine hours ahead of Green-
wich Mean Time (GMT). When its noon in
Tokyo, its 7pm (the day before) in Los An-
geles, 10pm in Montreal and New York, 3am
(the same day) in London, 4am in Frankfurt,
Paris and Rome, 11am in Hong Kong, 3pm
in Melbourne and 5pm in Wellington. Japan
does not observe daylight-savings-time, so
remember to subtract one hour when working
out the time difference with a country using
daylight-savings-time.
TIPPING & BARGAINING
Despite the high quality of customer service
in Japan, it is not customary to tip, even in the
most expensive restaurants and bars. Bargain-
ing is not customary either, with the excep-
tion of outdoor markets, such as Ameyoko in
Ueno (see p70).
TOILETS
In Japan you will come across everything
from the automated wash-and-dry Toto
toilets to the somewhat more humble Asian
squat toilets.
If youve never had the pleasure of having
your back end washed and dried by a ma-
chine, the trick is to select exactly the right
water temperature and pressure and dont
forget to relax the muscles!
When you need to squat, the correct posi-
tion is facing the hood, away from the door.
Make sure the contents of your pockets dont
spill out!
Toilet paper isnt always provided, so al-
ways graciously accept those small packets
of tissue handed out on the street, a common
form of advertising.
In many bathrooms in Japan, separate toi-
let slippers are often provided just inside the
toilet door. These are for use in the toilet only,
so remember to shuffle out of them when
you leave.
Its quite common to see men urinating
in public the unspoken rule is that its ac-
ceptable at night time if you happen to be
drunk. Public toilets are free and can usually
be found in or around most train stations. If
youre not near a train station, department
stores are always a good bet, and convenience
stores have clean public toilets that are often
available 24 hours a day.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Japans tourist information services (
, kank annai-sho) are first rate, and
the Tokyo branch of the Japan National Tourist
Organization (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp) is the best of the
bunch.
JNTO is the main English-language infor-
mation service for foreign travellers to Japan
and produces a great deal of useful literature,
which is available from its offices abroad and
its Tourist Information Centers (TICs) in-
side Japan. Most publications are available in
English and, in some cases, other European
and Asian languages. JNTOs website is very
useful for planning your journey.
JNTO operates two main TICs in Tokyo:
Narita (%0476-34-6251; 1st fl, Terminals 1 & 2, Narita
Airport, Chiba; h9am-8pm)
Tokyo (Map p62; %3216-1901; 10th fl, Kts Kaikan
Bldg, 2-10-1 Yrakuch, Chiyoda-ku; h9am-5pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-noon Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Yrakuch,
exit A8)
TIC staff cannot make transport bookings;
they can, however, direct you to agencies that
can, such as the Japan Travel Bureau (JTB; Map pp489;
%5321-3077; Main Office Tokyo Metropolitan Government
Bldg, 1st fl, Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No 1;
h9.30am-6.30pm, closed year-end & New Year period).
In addition to its main offices listed, JNTO
lonelyplanet.com
operates 111 English-language Tourist In-
formation Centers throughout Japan. The
centres are usually found in the main train
stations of major Japanese cities. Look for the
red question mark with the word informa-
tion printed beneath it.
Other helpful places about town include
the following:
Asakusa Tourist Information Center (Map p86;
%5246-1151; 4-5-6 Higashi-Ueno, Tait-ku; h10am-
5pm; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa, exit A4)
Awaiting you in Asakusa, this excellent place is staffed with
DIRECTORY TOURIST INFORMATION
friendly local experts who can arrange free neighbourhood
tours with English-speaking guides.
Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau (TCVB; Map
pp523; %3287-7024; 1st fl, 3-2-2 Marunouchi,
Chiyoda-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat,
Sun & holidays; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Lines
to Hibiya, exit B7)
Tokyo Tourist Information Center Toch (TIC; Map p116;
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, North Tower, 1st
fl, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bToei edo Line
to Tochmae, exit A4)
If youre looking to use a licensed, profes-
sional tourist guide you could contact the
Japan Guide Association (%3213-2706; www.jga21c
.or.jp/f_introduction.html).
Tourist Offices Abroad
JNTO has a number of offices abroad includ-
ing the following:
Australia (%02-9251 3024; www.jnto.go.jp/syd/index
.html; Level 18, Australia Square Tower, 264 George St,
Sydney, NSW 2000)
Canada (%416-366-7140; www.japantravelinfo.com;
Suite 306, 481 University Avenue, Toronto, Ontario M5G
2E9 Canada)
France (%01 42 96 20 29; www.tourisme-japon.fr; 4
Rue de Ventadour, 75001 Paris)
Germany (%069-20353; fra@jnto.de; Kaiserstrasse 11,
60311 Frankfurt am Main)
UK (%020-7734 9638; www.seejapan.co.uk; Heathcoat
House, 20 Savile Row, London W1S 3PR)
USA (www.japantravelinfo.com); Los Angeles (%213-
623-1952; Suite 1470, 515 South Figueroa St, Los Angeles,
CA 90071); New York (%212-757-5640; Suite 1250, 1
Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020); San Francisco
(%415-292 5686; Suite 250C, 1 Daniel Burnham Crt, San
Francisco, CA 94109)
255
lonelyplanet.com
BRINGING GUIDE DOGS TO
JAPAN
Japanese regulations on the importation of live
animals are very strict, and are not waived for guide
dogs. Dogs brought from countries in which rabies
has been eradicated need not be quarantined, pro-
vided their owners can show a yshutsu shomeisho
(exportation certificate). Dogs arriving from countries
in which rabies occurs will be placed into quarantine
for up to six months, unless their owners can supply
an exportation certificate, veterinary examination
certification and written proof of rabies vaccination.
DIRECTORY TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
TRAVELLERS WITH
DISABILITIES
Many new buildings in Tokyo have access
ramps, traffic lights have speakers playing mel-
odies when it is safe to cross, train platforms
have raised dots and lines to provide guidance
and some ticket machines have Braille. Some
attractions also offer free entry to travellers with
disabilities and a companion. A fair number of
hotels, from the higher end of midrange and
above, offer a universal (meaning universally
accessible) room or two. Still, Tokyo can be
rather difficult for travellers with disabilities
to negotiate, especially visitors in wheelchairs
who are often forced to make a choice between
negotiating stairs or rerouting.
For more information check out the fol-
lowing websites:
Accessible Japan (www.wakakoma.org/aj) Details the
accessibility of hundreds of sites in Tokyo, including hotels,
sights and department stores, as well as general informa-
tion about getting around Japan.
Japanese Red Cross Language Service Volunteers (Map
pp967; %3438-1311; http://accessible.jp.org; 1-1-3
Shiba Daimon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8521) Has loads of
useful information, and it also produces an excellent guide
called Accessible Tokyo, which can be requested by email,
mail or telephone or found on its website.
VISAS
Generally, visitors who are not planning to
engage in income-producing activities while
in Japan are exempt from obtaining visas and
will be issued a tanki-taizai (temporary visitor
visa) on arrival.
Stays of up to six months are permitted for
citizens of Austria, Germany, Ireland, Mexico,
Switzerland and the UK. Citizens of these
256
countries will almost always be given a 90-day
temporary visitor visa upon arrival, which can
usually be extended for another 90 days at
immigration bureaus inside Japan (see Visa
Extensions, below).
Citizens of the USA, Australia and New
Zealand are granted 90-day temporary visi-
tor visas, while stays of up to three months
are permitted for citizens of Argentina, Bel-
gium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France,
Iceland, Israel, Italy, Netherlands, Norway,
Singapore, Spain, Sweden and a number of
other countries.
For additional information on visas and
regulations, contact the nearest Japanese em-
bassy or consulate in your country, or visit
the website of the Japan Ministry of Foreign Affairs
(www.mofa.go.jp) where you can check out the
Guide to Japanese Visas, read about working-
holiday visas and find details on the Japan
Exchange and Teaching (JET) programme,
which sponsors native English speakers to
teach in the Japanese public-school system.
You can also contact the Immigration Information
Center (Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau; Map pp489;
%5796-7112; www.moj.go.jp/ENGLISH/; 5-5-30 Knan, Mi-
nato-ku; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri; bTokyo Monorail
for either one or three years. This procedure
or Rinkai Line to Tennozu Isle).
Alien Registration Card
Anyone and this includes tourists who
stays for more than 90 days is required to
obtain a gaikokujin torokush (Alien Registra-
tion Card). This card can be obtained at the
municipal office of the city, town or ward in
which youre living. Moving to another area
requires that you reregister within 14 days.
You must carry your Alien Registration
Card at all times as the police can stop you
and ask to see the card. If you dont have it,
you could be hauled off to the police station to
wait until someone fetches it for you provid-
ing you have one.
Visa Extensions
With the exception of those nationals whose
countries have reciprocal visa exemptions and
can stay for six months, the limit for most
nationalities is 90 days. To extend a temporary
visitor visa beyond the standard limit, apply at
the Immigration Information Center (Tokyo
Regional Immigration Bureau; see above). You
must provide two copies of an Application for
Extension of Stay (available at the immigra-
tion office), a letter stating the reasons for the
extension and supporting documentation as
well as your passport. There is a processing
fee of 4000.
Many long-term visitors to Japan get
around the extension problem by briefly leav-
ing the country, usually by going to South
Korea. Be warned, however, that immigration
officials are starting to wise up to this practice,
and many tourist visa returnees are turned
back at the entry point.
Work Visas
Ever-increasing demand has prompted much
stricter work-visa requirements than previ-
ously. Arriving in Japan and looking for a
job is quite a tough proposition these days,
though people still do it and occasionally
succeed in finding sponsorship. With that
said, there are legal employment categories for
foreigners that specify standards of experience
and qualifications.
Once you find an employer in Japan who is
willing to sponsor you, it is necessary to obtain
a Certificate of Eligibility from your nearest
Japanese immigration office. The same office
can then issue your work visa, which is valid
can take two to three months.
Generally speaking, it is recommended that
you arrange your job in Japan prior to arrival.
In this case, your employer will arrange your
visa in advance, which will save you the hassle
of having to enter as a tourist and subse-
quently change your status.
Working-Holiday Visas
Citizens of Australia, Canada, France, Ger-
many, Korea, New Zealand and the UK can
apply for a working-holiday visa if theyre
between 18 and 30 (the upper age limit for UK
citizens is officially 25, but this is negotiable).
This visa allows a six-month stay and two six-
month extensions. The visa is designed to en-
able young people to travel extensively during
their stay; thus, employment is supposed to
be part-time or temporary. In practice, many
people work full-time.
A working-holiday visa is much easier to
obtain than a work visa and is popular with
Japanese employers. Single applicants must
have the equivalent of US$2000 of funds, a
married couple must have US$3000, and all
applicants must have an onward ticket from
Japan. For details, inquire at the nearest Japa-
nese embassy or consulate (see p246).
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
lonelyplanet.com
Japan is one of the safest countries in the
world for women travellers. Compared with
the West, Japan has a much lower incidence
of violent crime, including rape. As a result,
women should have no problem walking alone
down the streets of Tokyo, even at night. Of
course, as with any unfamiliar destination,
its best to use your discretion and keep your
guard up at all times.
If you do experience a problem and find the
local police unhelpful, call the Human Rights
Counseling Center for Foreigners (see p250).
DIRECTORY WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Its worth mentioning, however, that women
who have spent a considerable amount of time
in Japan have probably experienced some form
of sexual harassment. Jam-packed trains can
provide opportunities for the roving hands
of chikan (gropers). A loud complaint usually
shames the perpetrator into retreating. To avoid
the possibility altogether, ride in the women-
only train carriages during rush hour.
Finally, an excellent resource for any
woman setting up in Japan is Caroline Pov-
ers book Being A Broad in Japan; find it in
bookshops or order from her website (www
.being-a-broad.com).
WORK
Finding work in Tokyo is possible, but its not
as easy nor as lucrative as it used to be. Teach-
ing English is still the most common job for
Westerners, but bartending, hostessing, model-
ling and various other jobs are also possible.
Whatever line of work you choose, it is
essential to look neat and tidy for interviews
appearances can make or break you in Japan.
Youll also need to be determined, and you
should have a sizable sum of money to float
on while youre looking for work, and possibly
to get you out of the country if you dont find
any (it happens). Foreigners who have set up
in Japan over the last few years maintain that
a figure of around US$5000 or more is neces-
sary to make a go of it. People do it with less,
but they run the risk of ending up penniless
and homeless before they find a job.
Be advised that business cards (meishi)
carry much more weight in Japan than they
do in the West. Information about a persons
status and, perhaps even more importantly,
their connections can be obtained from busi-
ness cards, which are ritually exchanged on
first meeting. Its good form to accept cards
with both hands and examine them before
257
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com
tucking them away into your purse or wallet.
If attending a meeting, the card should be left
on the table until the end of the meeting, and
only afterwards be respectfully put away.
Bartending
In the tourist-friendly entertainment district
of Roppongi (p94), foreign bartenders are the
rule rather than the exception. As little as five
years ago, it was not necessary to have a valid
work visa to work in Roppongi as the majority
of establishments were perfectly willing to pay
tourists under the table. Of course, bartenders
DIRECTORY WORK
were expected to work 80+ hours a week for
little more than pocket change (there are no
tips in Japan), though when youre down and
out, a job is a job.
Following a recent crackdown on illegal
workers, however, the Roppongi nightlife
scene is slowly turning legit. Today, few estab-
lishments are willing to take a chance by hiring
a tourist, though the upside is that wages have
slightly increased. Although you cannot expect
a bar to sponsor a work visa, mixing cocktails
in the evenings is a great way to supplement
the meagre pay of an English teacher.
English Teaching
Teaching English has always been the most
popular job for native English speakers in
Japan. While its a fairly common option,
competition for the good jobs is very tight
since many English schools have failed as a
result of Japans weakened economy.
A university degree is an absolute essential
as schools cannot sponsor you for a work visa
without one (be sure to bring the actual degree
with you to Japan). Teaching qualifications
and some teaching experience will be of huge
advantage when job hunting.
Consider organising a job before arriving
in Japan. Big schools such as Geos (www.geoscareer
.com) and Nova (www.teachinjapan.com) have recruit-
ment programmes in the USA and the UK.
With that said, working conditions at the big
factory schools are pretty dire compared with
the smaller schools that recruit within Japan.
Travellers without a degree who can take
advantage of the Japanese working-holiday
visa (p257) are in a much better position than
those who cannot. Schools are happier about
taking on unqualified teachers if it means that
they dont have to bother with sponsoring a
teacher for a work visa.
For job listings, start with the following:
258
Daves ESL Caf (www.eslcafe.com)
ELT News (www.eltnews.com)
GaijinPot (www.gaijinpot.com)
Japan Times (http://classified.japantimes.com/career)
Hostessing
Hostess clubs, which are a common feature of
Japans entertainment industry, employ female
staff to serve men drinks, and engage them in
conversation. Unlike strips clubs or brothels,
hostesses are not forced to remove their clothes
or engage in sex with customers, though they
can be encouraged to meet clients (and per-
form favours) outside of working hours.
Hostessing is a popular employment op-
tion among young foreign women in Japan
as few places require valid visas, and salaries
can sometimes reach hundreds of dollars per
hour. Particularly attractive or popular host-
esses can also receive gifts from clients, such as
jewellery, clothing, trips and even cars.
Of course, there are dangers. In 1992, Carita
Ridgeway, an Australian hostess, was drugged
and killed after a paid date. In 2000, Lucie
Blackman, an English hostess, was abducted,
raped and murdered by a customer.
Hostessing has inherent dangers, which
is why we cannot recommend that anyone
consider the job as a viable and sustainable
form of employment in Japan. With that said,
if you do decide to accept a hostessing job, be
sure that you understand the nature of your
employment, and know the extent of your
personal boundaries.
Modelling
As one of the worlds greatest fashion capitals,
Tokyo is a lucrative place to live if you were
born with beautiful looks, perfect posture
and a healthy dose of poise. Although theres
no denying the beauty of Japanese models,
foreigners are all the rage these days, and its
not difficult to find the faces of your favour-
ite Hollywood actors selling everything from
mobile phones to canned coffee.
Modelling is a legitimate business that can
pay extremely well, but you will need to be in
possession of a valid work visa. Although there
are literally hundreds of agencies in Tokyo,
the following list should get you started:
Agence Presse (www.agencepresse.com)
Bravo Models (www.bravomodels.net)
Switch (www.switchmodels.co.jp)
World Top (http://worldtop.co.jp)
 Lonely Planet Publications

L AN G UAG E
Its true anyone can speak another language. Dont worry if you havent studied languages
before or that you studied a language at school for years and cant remember any of it. It
doesnt even matter if you failed English grammar. After all, thats never affected your ability
to speak English! And this is the key to picking up a language in another country. You just
need to start speaking.
Learn a few key phrases before you go. Write them on pieces of paper and
stick them on the fridge, by the bed or even on the computer anywhere that
youll see them often.
Youll find that locals appreciate travellers trying their language, no mat-
ter how muddled you may think you sound. So dont just stand there, say
something! If you want to learn more Japanese than weve included here,
pick up a copy of Lonely Planets comprehensive but user-friendly Japanese
Phrasebook.

LANGUAGE PRONUNCIATION
PRONUNCIATION Please.
(when offering something)
Pronounce double consonants with a slight dzo
pause between them, so that each is clearly au- (when asking a favour or making a
dible. Vowel length affects meaning, so make request)
sure you distinguish your short and long vowels onegai shimas[u]
clearly. Certain vowel sounds (like u and i) arent Thank you (very much).
pronounced in some words, but are included as () (dmo) arigat
part of the official Romanisation system (which () (gozaimas[u])
employs a literal system to represent Japanese Youre welcome.
characters). In the following words and phrases d itashimash[i]te
these silent letters are shown in square brackets Excuse me.
to indicate that they arent pronounced. (to get attention or to get past)
sumimasen
a short, as the u in run Sorry.
long, as the a in father gomen nasai
e short, as in red
long, as the ei in rein Could you please ?
i short, as in bit ?
ii long i, as in marine kuremasen ka?
o short, as in pot repeat that
long, as the aw in paw
u short, as in put kurikaeshite
long, as in rude speak more slowly

SOCIAL motto yukkuri hanash[i]te
write it down
Meeting People
Hello/Hi. kaite
konnichi wa
Goodbye. Whats your name?
saynara ?
Yes. o-namae wa nan des[u] ka?
hai My name is
No.
iie watashi no namae wa des[u]
259
 Do you speak English? Which?
? ? dochira?
Banking call (Singapore)
()
Id like to
eigo ga hanasemas[u] ka? When?
(shingapru) ni denwa shi
Do you understand? ? itsu? o onegai shimas[u] make a (local) call
? Where? cash a cheque ()
wakarimash[i]ta ka? ? doko? (shinai) ni denwa shi
Yes, I do understand. How? kogitte no genkinka reverse the charges
? dono y ni? change a travellers cheque
hai, wakarimash[i]ta How much does it cost? korekuto-kru de denwa shi
No, I dont understand. ? ikura des[u] ka? toraberz[u] chekku no genkinka
change money Id like a

iie, wakarimasen Numbers rygae o onegai shimas[u]
0 / zero/rei charger for my phone
Going Out 1
2


ichi
ni
Wheres ?
Whats on ? ? keitaidenwa no jdenki
? 3 san wa doko des[u] ka? mobile/cell phone for hire
wa nani ga arimas[u] ka? 4 shi/yon an ATM
locally 5 go ATM keitaidenwa no rentaru
6 roku tiiemu prepaid mobile/cell phone
kinjo ni
LANGUAGE PRACTICAL

LANGUAGE PRACTICAL
7 shichi/nana a foreign exchange office
this weekend
8 hachi puripeido no keitaidenwa
konsh no shmatsu
9 ku/ky gaikoku kawase sekushon SIM card for your network
today
10 j SIM
ky
11 jichi shimukdo
tonight
konya
12 jni Post
13 jsan Where is the post office?
Where can I find ?
14 jshi/jyon ?
ybin kyoku wa doko des[u] ka?
Internet
15 jgo Wheres the local internet caf?
? 16 jroku ?
doko ni ikeba ga arimas[u] ka? 17 jshichi/ I want to send a/an intnetto-kafe wa doko des[u] ka?
clubs jnana
kurabu 18 jhachi o okuritai no des[u] ga Id like to
gay venues 19 jku/jky letter
gei no basho tegami
20 nij shitai no des[u] ga
Japanese-style pubs 21 nijichi parcel check my email
izakaya kozutsumi
22 nijni E
places to eat postcard
30 sanj iimru o chekku
shokuji ga dekiru hagaki
40 yonj get internet access
tokoro 50 goj
I want to buy a/an
pubs 60 rokuj intnetto ni akuses[u]
pabu 70 nanaj o kudasai
80 hachij
Is there a local entertainment guide? 90 kyj
aerogram
earoguramu
Transport
100 hyaku Whens the (bus)?
envelope ()?
? 200 nihyaku ft
jimoto no entteimento gaido wa 1000 sen (bas[u]) wa nan-ji des[u] ka?
stamp first
arimas[u] ka? kitte shihatsu no
Days last
PRACTICAL Monday
Tuesday


getsuybi
kaybi
Phones & Mobiles
next
saish no
I want to
Question Words Wednesday suiybi tsugi no
Who? (polite) Thursday mokuybi tai no des[u] ga
?/? dare?/donata? Friday kinybi buy a phonecard What time does it leave?
What?/What is this? Saturday doybi ?
?/? nan?/nani? Sunday nichiybi terefon kdo o kai kore wa nan-ji ni demas[u] ka?
260 261
 What time does it get to ...? Im allergic to Do you have an English menu? Im allergic to (peanuts).
? ? ()
kore wa ... ni nan-ji ni tsukimas[u] ka? watashi wa arerugii des[u] eigo no meny ga arimas[u] ka? watashi wa (piinattsu) arerugii des[u]
Is this taxi available? antibiotics Can you recommend any dishes?
? ?
kono tak[u]shii wa ksha des[u] ka? aspirin
ksei busshitsu
osusume no ryri ga arimas[u] ka?
Food Glossary
Please put the meter on. as[u]pirin Is this self-service? SUSHI & SASHIMI
ama-ebi
bees ?
mt o irete kudasai sweet shrimp
hachi koko wa serufu sbis[u] des[u] ka?
How much is it to ? awabi
nuts Is service included in the bill?
? abalone
nattsurui ?
made ikura des[u] ka? ebi /
penicillin sbis[u] ry wa komi des[u] ka?
Please take me to (this address). prawn or shrimp
penishirin Cheers!
() hamachi
!
(kono jsho) made onegai shimas[u] yellowtail
kampai!
Symptoms Bon appetit!
ika
squid

EMERGENCIES I have

!
itadakimas[u]!
ikura
Help! salmon roe
!
watashi wa ga arimas[u] Delicious! kani
tas[u]kete! diarrhoea !
LANGUAGE EMERGENCIES

LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

crab
Its an emergency! geri oishii! katsuo
! a headache Thank you. (after a meal) bonito
kinky des[u]! zuts maguro
Call the police! nausea gochis sama deshita tuna
! hakike tai
keisatsu o yonde! a pain Please bring ... sea bream
Call a doctor! itami tamago
! ... o onegai shimas[u] sweetened egg
isha o yonde! the bill
Call an ambulance! FOOD & DRINK o-kanj
toro
the choicest cut of fatty tuna belly
! For more detailed information on food and chopsticks unagi
kykysha o yonde! dining out, see p150. hashi eel with a sweet sauce
Could you please help? a fork uni
? breakfast chshoku fku sea urchin roe
tas[u]kete kudasai? lunch chshoku a glass (of water)
Wheres the police station? dinner yshoku () koppu (ippai no mizu)
?
NOODLES
snack kanshoku a knife chnpon-men
keisatsusho wa doko des[u] ka? to eat tabemas[u] naifu noodles in meat broth with toppings
to drink nomimas[u] a spoon chsh-men
HEALTH Can you recommend a ...?
supn rmen topped with slices of roast pork
kake
Wheres the nearest ? ?
? I cant eat meat. soba/udon in broth
doko ka ii ... o shitte imas[u] ka? kitsune
kono chikaku no ... wa doko des[u] ka?
bar niku wa taberaremasen soba/udon with fried tofu
(night) chemist
b I cant eat chicken. miso-rmen
(24)
(nijyojikan eigy no) yakkyoku caf rmen with miso-flavoured broth
doctor kafe toriniku wa taberaremasen shio-rmen
restaurant I cant eat pork. rmen with salt-flavoured broth
isha restoran shyu-rmen
hospital butaniku wa taberaremasen rmen with soy sauceflavoured broth
Is service included in the bill? I cant eat seafood. soba
byin ? buckwheat-based noodles
sbis[u] ry komi des[u] ka? shiifdo wa taberaremasen tempura
I need a doctor (who speaks English). A table for two/five people, please. Im a vegetarian. soba/udon with tempura shrimp
() (/) tsukimi
(eigo ga dekiru) o-isha-san ga hitsuy des[u] (futari/go-nin) onegai shimas[u] watashi wa bejitarian des[u] soba/udon with egg on top
262 263
 udon tempura mori-awase minchi katsu mizu-wari
thick, white wheat noodles selection of tempura minced pork cutlet whiskey, ice and water
wantan-men ten-don rsu katsu mugi-cha
rmen with meat dumplings tempura shrimp and vegetables over a large bowl of rice fattier cut of pork (which some consider more flavourful) roasted barley tea served in the summer
zaru tonkatsu teishoku onzarokku
cold soba/udon served on a bamboo mat, with nori SUKIYAKI, SHABU-SHABU & YAKINIKU set meal of tonkatsu, rice, miso shiru and shredded cabbage whiskey with ice
buta rku-de
IZAKAYA pork UNAGI to serve a liquor on the rocks
agedashi-dfu gyniku kabayaki shiroi-wain
deep-fried tofu in a fish-stock soup beef skewers of grilled eel without rice white wine
aspara-bat harami unadon sutoraito
buttered asparagus tender meat from around the diaphragm grilled eel over a bowl of rice to serve a liquor straight
chiizu-age karubi unagi teishoku
deep-fried cheese short ribs without the bones full-set unagi meal with rice, grilled eel, eel-liver soup
hiya-yakko reba and pickles NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS
cold block of tofu with soy sauce and spring onions beef liver unaj khii
jaga-bat rsu grilled eel over a flat tray of rice regular coffee
baked potatoes with butter beef tenderloin burendo khii
kata yaki-soba tan blended coffee, fairly strong
FUGU
hard fried noodles with meat and vegetables beef tongue, served with salt and lemon american khii
fugu chiri
LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

niku-jaga toriniku weak coffee
stew made from fugu and vegetables
beef and potato stew chicken kcha
fugu sashimi
piiman yasai
thinly sliced raw fugu black, British-style tea
small green peppers vegetables, typically carrots, mushrooms, onions
fugu teishoku kafe re
poteto furai
set course of fugu served several ways, plus rice and soup caf au lait, hot or cold
French fries OKONOMIYAKI yaki fugu orenji jsu
sashimi mori-awase gy okonomiyaki
selection of sliced sashimi fugu grilled on a hibachi (small earthenware grill) at your orange juice
beef okonomiyaki
shiitake table mizu
ika okonomiyaki
Japanese mushrooms squid okonomiyaki water
shio-yaki-zakana mikkusu ALCOHOLIC DRINKS oyu
whole fish grilled with salt mixed fillings of seafood, meat and vegetables akai-wain hot water
shishamo modan-yaki red wine uron-cha
pregnant smelts, grilled and eaten whole okonomiyaki with yaki-soba and a fried egg biiru traditional Chinese tea
tebasaki negi okonomiyaki beer
chicken wings thin okonomiyaki with spring onions chu-hai
tsukune rice brandy with fruit juice JAPANESE TEA
chicken meatballs nama biiru o-cha
SHOKUD green tea
tsuna sarada donburi-mono draught beer
tuna salad over cabbage shch sencha
large bowl of rice topped with egg or meat
yaki-onigiri kar-raisu distilled grain liquor medium-grade green tea
triangle of grilled rice rice topped with ingredients in curry sauce oyu-wari matcha
yaki-soba niku-don shch with hot water powdered green tea used in the tea ceremony
fried noodles with meat and vegetables rice topped with thin slices of cooked beef chhai bancha
yakitori omu-raisu shch with soda and lemon ordinary-grade green tea, brownish in colour
skewers of grilled chicken rice flavoured with ketchup, served inside a thin omelette whiskey mugicha
yasai sarada oyako-don whiskey roasted barley tea
mixed vegetable salad rice topped with egg and chicken

TEMPURA TONKATSU
kakiage hire katsu
tempura cake of shredded vegetables tonkatsu (crumbed pork) fillet
kakiage-don katsu-don
kakiage served over a large bowl of rice tonkatsu and egg on rice
shjin age kushi katsu
vegetarian tempura deep-fried pork and vegetables on skewers

264 265
 GLOSSARY
agaru north of
ageya traditional banquet hall used for entertainment,
which flourished during the Edo period
Amida Nyorai Buddha of the Western Paradise
ANA All Nippon Airways
bashi bridge (also hashi)
ben dialect, as in Kyoto-ben
bent boxed lunch or dinner, usually containing rice,
vegetables and fish or meat
bosatsu a bodhisattva, or Buddha attendant, who
assists others to attain enlightenment
bugaku dance pieces played by court orchestras in
ancient Japan
bunraku classical puppet theatre that uses life-size
puppets to enact dramas similar to those of kabuki
chad tea ceremony, or The Way of Tea
chanoyu tea ceremony; see also chad
LANGUAGE GLOSSARY
ch city area (for large cities) sized between a ku and
chme
chme city area of a few blocks
dai great; large
Daibutsu Great Buddha
daimy domain lords under the shgun
dera temple (also ji or tera)
dri street
fugu poisonous pufferfish, elevated to haute cuisine
futon cushion-like mattress that is rolled up and stored
away during the day
gagaku music of the imperial court
gaijin foreigner; the contracted form of gaikokujin
(literally, outside country person)
gawa river (also kawa)
geiko Kyoto dialect for geisha
geisha a woman versed in the arts and other cultivated
pursuits who entertains guests
g shrine
haiden hall of worship in a shrine
haiku 17-syllable poem
hakubutsukan museum
hanami cherry-blossom viewing
hashi bridge (also bashi); chopsticks
higashi east
hiragana phonetic syllabary used to write Japanese
words
honden main building of a shrine
hond main building of a temple (also kond)
ikebana art of flower arrangement
irori open hearth found in traditional Japanese homes
ITJ International Telecom Japan
izakaya Japanese pub/eatery
ji temple (also tera or dera)
266
jing shrine (also jinja or g)
Jiz bodhisattva who watches over children
JNTO Japan National Tourist Organization
j castle (also shiro)
JR Japan Railways
kabuki form of Japanese theatre that draws on popular
tales and is characterised by elaborate costumes, stylised
acting and the use of male actors for all roles
kaiseki Buddhist-inspired, Japanese haute cuisine;
called cha-kaiseki when served as part of a tea ceremony
kaisoku rapid train
kaiten-zushi automatic, conveyor-belt sushi
kamikaze literally, wind of the gods; originally the
typhoon that sank Kublai Khans 13th-century invasion
fleet and the name adopted by Japanese suicide bombers
in the waning days of WWII
kampai cheers, as in a drinking toast
kanji literally, Chinese writing; Chinese ideographic
script used for writing Japanese
Kannon Buddhist goddess of mercy
karaoke a now famous export where revellers sing
along to recorded music, minus the vocals
karesansui dry-landscaped rock garden
kawa river
kayabuki-yane traditional Japanese thatched-roof
farmhouse
KDD Kokusai Denshin Denwa
ken prefecture, eg Shiga-ken
kimono traditional outer garment that is similar to
a robe
kita north
KIX Kansai International Airport
Kiyomizu-yaki a distinctive type of local pottery
ko lake
kban local police box
ken park
koma-inu dog-like guardian stone statues found in
pairs at the entrance to Shint shrines
kond main building of a temple
koto 13-stringed zither-like instrument
ku ward
kudaru south of (also sagaru)
kura traditional Japanese warehouse
kygen drama performed as comic relief between n
plays, or as separate events
ky-machiya see machiya
ky-ningy Kyoto dolls
ky-obanzai see obanzai
ky-ryri Kyoto cuisine
Kyoto-ben distinctive Japanese dialect spoken in
Kyoto
LDP Liberal Democratic Party
live house a small concert hall where live music is
performed
machi city area (for large cities) sized between a ku
and chme
machiya traditional wooden town house, called
ky-machiya in Kyoto
maiko apprentice geisha
maki-e decorative lacquer technique using silver and
gold powders
mama-san older women who run drinking, dining and
entertainment venues
matcha powdered green tea served in tea ceremonies
matsuri festival
mikoshi portable shrine carried during festivals
minami south
minshuku Japanese equivalent of a B&B
miny traditional Japanese folk music
Miroku Buddha of the Future
mizu shbai the world of bars, entertainment and
prostitution (also known as water trade)
shamisen three-stringed, banjo-like instrument
momiji Japanese maple trees
momiji-gari viewing of the changing autumn colours
of trees
mon temple gate
mningu setto morning set of toast and coffee served
at cafs
mura village
Nihon Japanese word for Japan; literally, source of the
sun (also known as Nippon)
ningy doll (see also ky-ningy)
ni temple guardians
Nippon see Nihon
nishi west
n classical Japanese mask drama performed on a bare
stage
noren door curtain for restaurants, usually labelled with
the name of the establishment
NTT Nippon Telegraph & Telephone Corporation
o- prefix used as a sign of respect (usually applied to
objects)
obanzai Japanese home-style cooking (the Kyoto
variant of this is sometimes called ky-obanzai)
obi sash or belt worn with kimono
Obon mid-August festivals and ceremonies for deceased
ancestors
okiya old-style geisha living quarters
onsen mineral hot spring with bathing areas and ac-
commodation
o-shibori hot towels given in restaurants
pachinko vertical pinball game that is a Japanese
craze
Raijin god of thunder
ryokan traditional Japanese inn
ryri cooking; cuisine (see also ky-ryri)
rytei traditional-style, high-class restaurant; kaiseki
is typical fare
sabi a poetic ideal of finding beauty and pleasure in
imperfection; often used in conjunction with wabi
sagaru south of (also kudaru)
sakura cherry trees
salaryman male employee of a large firm
sama a suffix even more respectful than san
samurai Japans traditional warrior class
san a respectful suffix applied to personal names, similar
to Mr, Mrs or Ms but more widely used
sen line, usually railway line
sencha medium-grade green tea
sensu folding paper fan
sent public bath
setto set meal; see also teishoku
Shaka Nyorai Historical Buddha
shakkei borrowed scenery; technique where features
outside a garden are incorporated into its design
shakuhachi traditional Japanese bamboo flute
LANGUAGE GLOSSARY
shi city (to distinguish cities with prefectures of the
same name)
shidare-zakura weeping cherry tree
shinkaisoku special rapid train
shinkansen bullet train (literally, new trunk line)
Shint indigenous Japanese religion
shiro castle
shod Japanese calligraphy; literally, the way of writing
shgun military ruler of pre-Meiji Japan
shjin-ryri Buddhist vegetarian cuisine
shokud Japanese-style cafeteria/cheap restaurant
shukub temple lodging
soba thin brown buckwheat noodles
tatami tightly woven floor matting on which shoes
should not be worn
teishoku set meal in a restaurant
tera temple (also dera or ji)
TIC Tourist Information Center (usually refers to Kyoto
Tourist Information Center)
tokky limited express train
torii entrance gate to a Shint shrine
tsukemono Japanese pickles
udon thick, white, wheat noodles
ukiyo-e woodblock prints; literally, pictures of the
floating world
wabi a Zen-inspired aesthetic of rustic simplicity
wagashi traditional Japanese sweets that are served
with tea
wasabi spicy Japanese horseradish
washi Japanese paper
water trade see mizu shbai
yakuza Japanese mafia
yudfu bean curd cooked in an iron pot; common
temple fare
Zen a form of Buddhism
267
 Lonely Planet Publications
LANGUAGE

Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.

268
 Lonely Planet Publications

INDEX
See also separate transport 91 Asahi Flame 39 Bridgestone Museum of
indexes for: Akihabara 67-9, 68, 5 Asakura Chso Museum Art 52-3
Eating p278 attractions 67-9 75, 76 Buddhism 22, 23, 26, 232
Entertainment p279 accommodation 207 Asakusa 85-90, 86 Buddhist Temples 88
Shopping p280 food 160-1 accommodation 208-10 Bunkamura 107
shopping 140 attractions 85-90 bunraku 37
Sights p280
transport 67 food 162-3 bus travel 240
Sleeping p281 Akihabara Electric Town shopping 138 business hotels 202
Sports & Activites p282 67, 5 transport 85 business hours 155, 245,
Akihito, Emperor 29 Asakusa Engei Hall 90 see also inside front cover
A Akira, Kurosawa 32 Asakusa-jinja (Asakusa but 32
accommodation 202-16, Akishino, Princess 30 Temple) 86
see also Sleeping subindex alcohol 155 Atami 234 C
& individual listings ambulance 246 ATMs 250-1 capsule hotels 202
Akasaka 210-1 Ameya Yokoch (Ameyoko Aum Shinriky 29 car hire 241
Akihabara 207 Arcade) 70, 137 Axis 99 car travel 240
Asakusa 208-10 Ancient Orient Museum cell phones 253
business hotels 202 121 B cemeteries 76, 99
capsule hotels 202 anime 17, 69, 78 B&Bs, see minshuku Central Tokyo 55-60, 56
Central Tokyo 205 antiques 147, see Shopping baby-sitting 245 accommodation 205
Ebisu 211 subindex bargaining 254 attractions 55-60
gaijin houses 202 Aoyama 109-13, 110 bars 178-84, see also clubs, food 157
Ginza 205-6 attractions 109-13 Entertainment subindex shopping 138-9
Ikebukuro 214-16 bars 181-4 Aoyama 181-4 transport 155
Imperial Palace 204-5 food 168-9 Harajuku 181-4 ceramics 35
Kanda 207 shopping 142-5 Ikebukuro 183-4 cheques, travellers 251
love hotels 202 transport 109 Roppongi 182-4 Chichibu-Tama-Kai National
manga cafs 207 Aoyama Rei-en (Aoyama Shibuya 181-4 Park 220

INDEX
Marunouchi 204-5 Cemetary) 99 Shinjuku 178-81 children, travel with 71,
minshuku 203 Arata, Isozaki 39 baseball 59, 198-9, see 245, see also Sights
rentals 203-4 architecture 38-9, 112-13 also Sports & Activities subindex
Roppongi 211 art galleries 127, see also subindex Chingod-ji (Chingodo
ryokoan 203 galleries & museums, Baseball Hall of Fame Shrine) 87-9
Sanya 209 Sights subindex & Museum 59 Chraku-ji 234
Shibuya 211-13 Article 9 27, 28 Bash Kinenkan (Bash cinema, see film
Shinjuku 213-14 arts 30-7, see also crafts Museum) 128 cinemas 188-9, see
Shiodome 206 bunraku 37 Bash, Matsuo 34, 128 also Entertainment
Ueno 207-8 but 32 bathrooms 254-5 subindex
youth hostels 203 ceramics 35 beaches 221, 234 classical music 31, 178,
activities 192-200, see film 32-3 beer 155 see also Entertainment
also individual ikebana 36, 93, 196 Beer Museum Yebisu 100 subindex
activities, Sports & kabuki 36 Benzaiten 101 climate 16, 245
Activities subindex literature 33 bicycle travel 240 climate change 40, 239
addresses 53-4 mingei 35 Bijutsukan Kgeikan 51 clothing sizes 142
Advertising Museum music 31 Bishamon 101 clubs 184-6, see also bars,
Tokyo 66 n 36 blossom viewing Entertainment subindex
air travel 237-40 painting 34-5 Hanami 17, 20 comedy 187-8
airports 237-40 rakugo 37 Ky 20 Commes des Garons
Akasaka 91-3, 92 theatre 31-2 boat travel 240 Building 113
accommodation 210-11 TV 32, 42 books 27, 143, see Complex 99
attractions 91-3 ukiyo-e 35 also Shopping subindex Confucianism 23
food 163-4 visual arts 30-1 bookshops 115 convenience stores 164
273

lonelyplanet.com
cos-play 79, 6, 81
costs 20, 155-6
courier services 238
courses
cooking 165
ikebana 93
language 195
crafts 35, see also arts
Crafts Gallery 51
credit cards 251-8
customs regulations 245-6
cycling 195-7, see
also Sports & Activites
subindex
D embassies 246
Daibutsu 232
Daien-ji (Daien Temple)
100
Daikanyama 100-4, 102
attractions 100-4
food 165-7
shopping 140-1
transport 100
Daikoku 101
dance 177-8, see also
Entertainment subindex
but 32 Enoshima 233-4
n 36 Enoshima Samuel Cocking
day trips 218-36
Decks Tokyo Beach 132
Demb-in (Dembo Garden)
87
INDEX
depachika 171
Design Festa 18, 20
Detached Palace Garden,
see Hama Riky
Onshi-teien
digital photography 252
disabilities, travellers
with 256
discounts 74
diseases 248
doctors 247
Dgashima 235
Dkan, ta 23, 24
drinks 155
driving, see car travel
drug stores, see pharmacies
E see ikebana
earthquakes 40, 123
East Shinjuku (Shinjuku)
119-20
000 map pages
000 photographs
274
Ebisu 100-4, 102 Asakusa 162-3
accommodation 211 Aoyama 168-9
attractions 100-4 Central Tokyo 157
food 165-7 convenience stores 164
shopping 140-1 cooking courses 165
transport 100 depachika 171
economy 29, 41-2 Ebisu 165-7
Edo period 24-6 etiquette 150
Edo Shitamachi Dent Daikanyama 165-7
Kgeikan (Traditional fugu 154, 159, 249
Crafts Museum) 89 Ginza 158-9
Edo Tenka Matsuri 19 Harajuku 168-9
Edo-Tokyo Museum 39, 125 Ikebukuro 171-3
Egaraten-jinja 232 Imperial Palace 156-7
electricity 246 izakaya 152
kaiseki 154
emergencies 246, 247, see Kanda 160-1
also inside front cover noodles 151
encephalitis, Japanese Odaiba 173-4
B 248 okonomiyaki 153
Engaku-ji 231 rmen 152
English conversation cafs Roppongi 164-5
198, see also Sports & sashimi 151
Activities subindex self-catering 166
English teaching 258 shabu-shabu 153
Enka 31 Shibuya 167-8
Enn-ji 231 Shinjuku 169-71
shokud 153
sukiyaki 153
Garden 233 Sumida River 173
entertainment 176-90, sushi 151
see also Entertainment sweets 154
subindex, individual tempura 152
entries tonkatsu 154
environmental issues 40 Tsukiji 160
etiquette 139, 150 Ueno 161-2
sent 193 unagi 154 gyen, see parks & gardens
sum wrestling 127 vegetarian travellers 155
exchange rates, see inside yakiniku 153
front cover football, see soccer
fugu (puffer fish) 154,
F 159, 249
ferris wheels 71, 132 Fuji Television Japan
festivals 16-21, see Broadcast Center 39, 132
also matsuri, individual Fuji TV Headquarters
listings 38, 11
film 18, 19, 32-3 Fukagawa Edo Museum 129
fire services 246 Fukagawa Fud-d
flea markets 147 (Fukugawa Fud Temple)
flower arranging, 127
Fukagawa Hachiman 19
folk crafts, see crafts Fukuda, Yasuo 29
food 150-74, see also Fukurokuju 101
Eating subindex, Fumihiko, Maki 38
Shopping subindex Fune No Kagaku-kan
Akasaka 163-4 (Museum of Maritime
Akihabara 160-1 Science) 131
Hanae Mori Building 112
Fune No Kagaku-kan 71
Futarasan-jinja 224 Hanami (Cherry-Blossom
Viewing) 17, 20
G Hanayashiki Amusement
gaijin houses 202 Park 71, 90
galleries & museums 74, Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono
115, see also Sights Shrine) 119
subindex Haneda Airport 239-40
Gallery Koyanagi 62 Harajuku 109-13, 110
gardens, see parks & attractions 109-13
gardens bars 181-4
gay travellers 18, 180, 246 food 168-9
geology 40 shopping 142-5
Ghibli Museum 112 transport 109
Ginza 61-3, 62 Harajuku fashion 80, 80
accommodation 205-6 Hari-kuy 17
attractions 61-3 Harris, Townsend 234
food 158-9 Haruki, Murakami 33
shopping 136-7 Hase-dera 231
transport 61 Hayao, Miyazaki 112
glossary 266 health 247-9
Go-Daigo 23 Hibiya-ken (Hibiya
gods 101 Park) 61
Gokoku-ji (Gokoku Temple) Hideyori, Toyotomi 24
124 Hideyoshi, Toyotomi 24
Golden Gai 119, 220 Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) 91
golf 196, see also Sports Higashi-gyen (Imperial
& Activities subindex Palace East Garden) 51
Gra 227 hiking 220-1
Go-Sakuramachi 30 Inari-yama Trail 221
government 41 Mt Fuji 228
Government Offices 116 Okutama 220
Great Kant Earthquake me 220
26, 27 Takao-san 221
gyms 197, see also Sports Hina Matsuri (Girls Day) 17
& Activities subindex Hinokicho-ken 95
Hirohito, Emperor 26,
27, 29
H Hirokazu, Koreeda 33
Hachik Statue 105 Hiroshi, Sugimoto 30
Hachiman-dri 137 Hisahito, Prince 30
Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman history 22-30
Temple) 63 Article 9 27, 28
haiku 34, 128 books 27
Hakone 225-9, 226 Edo period 24-6
accommodation 229 Jmon period 22
attractions 227-8 Meiji Restoration 25, 26
food 228 Pearl Harbor 27, 57
information 228 Portuguese people 24
transport 227 postwar years 28-9
Hakone Museum of Art 227 samurai 22, 23, 25
Hakone Open-Air Museum WWII 26, 27-8, 55-6
225 Yayoi period 22
Hama Riky Onshi-teien Hitomi, Kanehara 33
(Detached Palace Garden) Hfuku-ji 234
66 Hkoku-ji 232
Hana Matsuri 18 holidays 249
O-bon 18 itineraries 46-7 Kanda Matsuri 18
lonelyplanet.com
Shgatsu (New Years Itsuko, Hasegawa 39 Kanda Myjin (Kanda
Holiday) 16 izakaya 152 Shrine) 69
horse racing 199-200, see Izu-hant 234-6 Kanei-ji 72
also Sports & Activities accommodation 235-6 Kannon-ji 76
subindex food 235 Kant Earthquake
hostessing 258 information 235 Memorial Museum
hot spring, see onsen sights 234-5 128
Hotei 101 transport 235 Kappa 101
Hotel New tani 59 Kappabashi-dri
J (Kappabashi Street) 88,
I Japan Railways (JR) Lines 90, 137
ice-skating 196, see Sports 241 karaoke 184, see also
& Activities subindex Japan Traditional Craft Entertainment subindex
Idemitsu Museum of Arts Center 123 karate 192, see also
53-4 Japanese Sword Museum Sports & Activities
Ieyasu, Tokugawa 24, 223 116 subindex
ikebana 36, 93, see jazz 189-90, see also Kazuko, Shiraishi 34
also Sports & Activites Entertainment subindex Kazuo, Shinohara 38
subindex JCII Camera Museum 58 keiretsu 41
Ikebukuro 121-4, 122 Jing-bashi (Jing Bridge) Kench-ji 231
accommodation 214-16 111 Kenji, Mizoguchi 32
attractions 121-4 Jiz 101 Kenzaburo, e 33
bars 183-4 Jchi-ji 231 Kenz, Tange 38
food 171-3 Jmon period 22 Kisho, Kurokawa 38
shopping 146-7 J-Pop 31 Kitano, Takeshi 32-3
transport 123 jud 192, see also Sports Kitanomaru-ken
Ikebukuro Bsai-kan & Activities subindex (Kitanomaru Park) 51
(Ikebukuro Earthquake Junichir, Koizumi 29 Kitaoji, Rosanjin 158
Hall) 71, 123 Jurojin 101 Kitsune 101
Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium Jz, Itami 32 Kiymizu Kannon-d 71
121 Kiyonori, Kikutake 38
Imperial Household K Kodomo-no-Shiro 71
INDEX
Agency 50 kabuki 36, see also Kenji Awa Odori 19
Imperial Palace 50-4, 52-3 Entertainment subindex Ketsu, Hon ami 35
accommodation 204-5 Kabukich 119, 120, 9 Koishikawa Krakuen
attractions 50-4 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) (Koishikawa Kraku
food 156-7 61, 176, 2 Garden) 58
shopping 136 Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Kokuritsu Kagaku
transport 123 Museum) 51 Hakubutsukan (National
Imperial Palace East Kagurazaka 60 Science Museum) 74
Garden, see Higashi- kaiseki 154 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan
gyen Kakuon-ji 232 (National Museum of
Imperial Palace, see Kykyo Kamakura 229-33, 230 Modern Art) 51
Inari-yama Trail 221 accommodation 233 Kokuritsu Seiy Bijutsukan
International Gay & Lesbian food 233 (National Museum of
Film Festival 18 information 233 Western Art) 74
International Robot sights 230-2 Koma Theatre 120
Exhibition 20 transport 233 Kon, Ichikawa 32
internet access 249-50 Kamakura National Krin, Ogata 35
internet resources 21 Treasure Museum 233 Kosugi Han Museum of
English teaching 258 Kaminarimon-dri 90 Art 224
entertainment 177 Kanda 67-9, 68 Ky (Autumn Foliage
newspapers 42 accommodation 207 Season) 20
Iris Viewing 18 attractions 67-9 Kumasaka, Izuru 33
Isetan Art Gallery 119 food 160-1 Kykyo (Imperial Palace)
Isetan Building 119 transport 67 50, 4
275
 Rygoku Kokugikan 125 transport 64 T Tokyo International Anime
lonelyplanet.com

L Meguro Gajoen (Meguro National Museum of Otoko No Hi (Boys Day) 18

La Qua Spa 58
Laforet Building 112
language 259-67, see also
inside front cover
legal matters 250
lesbian travellers 180, 246
literature 34, 128, see
also books
live music 186-7, see
also Entertainment
subindex
Louis Vuitton Building
112
Love Hotel Hill 105
love hotels 202
M MOA Art Museum 234
magazines 251
Maisen 169
Maneki-neko 101
manga 78, 78
manga cafs 207 Mori Art Museum 95
maps 250
markets 64-5, 147
martial arts 192, see
also Sports & Activities
subindex
Maunouchi 50-4, 52-3
accommodation 204-5
attractions 50-4
food 156-7
INDEX
Wedding Hall) 104
Meguro Museum of Art,
Tokyo 103
Meguro Parasitological
Museum 103
Meiji Restoration 25,
26
Meiji-jing (Meiji Shrine)
109, 6
Midtown Garden 95
mingei 35
minshuku 203
Miraikan (National
Museum of Emerging
Science & Innovation)
130, 132
mobile phones 253
modelling 258
money 250-1
money changers 251
motorcycle travel 240
Mt Fuji 228-9
Muse Tomo 99
Museum of Contemporary
Art, Tokyo 39, 127
museums, see galleries
& museums, Sights
subindex
Museums of Maritime,
see Fune No Kagaku-kan
lonelyplanet.com
Modern Art, see Kokuritsu wakudani 227 ryokan 203 Shiseido Art House 62 Tadao, And 39 Fair 17
Kindai Bijutsukan Rysen-ji 234 Shiseido Gallery 62 Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum Tokyo International Film
National Museum of P Rysen-ji Treasure Museum Shitamachi (low city) Museum) 89 Festival 19
Western Art, painting 34-5 234 25, 44 Taka Ishii Gallery 127 Tokyo International Forum
see Kokuritsu Seiy Park Hyatt Delicatessen 118 Shitamachi Museum 75 Takamori, Saig 71 39, 52
Bijutsukan parks & gardens 115, see S Shitamachi Walking Tours Takao-san 221 Tokyo Jidai Matsuri
National Science Museum, also Sights index St Patricks Day Parade 17 89, 90 Takarazuka 31 (Festival of the Ages) 19
see Kokuritsu Kagaku Pearl Harbor 27, 57 sake 155 Shizen Kyiku-en (Institute Takashi, Murakami 31-30 Tokyo Kokuritsu
Hakubutsukan Pentax Forum 118 Samba Carnival 19 for Nature Study) 101 Takeshita-dri (Takeshita Hakubutsukan (Tokyo
neighbourhoods 45, Perry, Commodore samurai 22, 23, 25 Shgatsu (New Years Street) 137, 6 National Museum) 73
48-9, see also individual Matthew 24, 26, 234 Sandara Kgei 76 Holiday) 16 Takigi Noh 18 Tokyo Metropolitan
neighbourhoods pharmacies 247 Sanja Matsuri 18 Shhei, Imamura 32 Tanuki 101 Childrens Hall, see
New National Theatre 178 photography 252 Sann-sai 18 shokud 153 Tatsuo, Miyajima 30 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan
New tani Art Museum planning 16, 46-7 Sanya 209 shopping 136-48, see also taxes 203 Tokyo Metropolitan
59 poetry 34 sashimi 151 Shopping subindex taxis 241 Chrysanthemum
newspapers 42, 251 police 246 Science Museum, see Akihabara 140, 5 tea ceremony, see kaiseki Festival 19
Nicholai Cathedral 69 politics 29, 41 Kagaku Gijitsukan Asakusa 138 teaching English 258 Tokyo Metropolitan
Nihombashi 54 pollution 249 Seijin-no-hi (Coming Aoyama 142-5 telephone services 253-4 Government Offices
Nihon Budkan 51 pools, see also Sports -Of-Age Day) 17 Central Tokyo 138-9 temples & shrines 38, 115, 38, 116
Nikk 221-5, 222 & Activities subindex Sens-ji (Senso Temple) Daikanyama 140-1 230-3, see also Sights Tokyo Metropolitan
accommodation 225 Portuguese people 24 85, 8 Ebisu 140-1 subindex Gymnasium 39
attractions 223-4 postal services 253 sent 193, see also Sports Ginza 136-7, 4 tempura 152 Tokyo Metropolitan
food 225 postwar years 28-9 & Activities subindex Harajuku 142-5 Tengu 101 Museum of Art 74
information 224-5 Prada Aoyama Building Setsubun 17 Ikebukuro 146-7 Tenno-ji 76 Tokyo Metropolitan
onsen 225 39, 113 shabu-shabu 153 Imperial Palace 136 Tepco Electric Energy Museum of Photography
transport 224 prostitution 189 Shibuya 105-8, 106 Marunouchi 136 Museum 107 103, 12
Ningy-kuy 19 pubic baths, see sent accommodation 211-13 Odaiba 147 theatre 31, 36, 176-7, Tokyo Metropolitan Teien
n 36 puffer fish, see fugu attractions 105-8 Roppingi 139-40 see also Entertainment Art Museum 104
noodles 151 puppet theatre, see bunraku bars 181-4 Shibuya 141-2 subindex, individual Tokyo Midtown 95, 10
Nobunaga, Oda 24 food 167-8 Shinuku 145-6 listings Tokyo Motorcycle Show
NTT Intercommunication R shopping 141-2 shrines, see temples & time 254 18
Centre 115 rakugo 37 transport 105 shrines Tokyo National Museum,

INDEX
shopping 136 tipping 254
transport 123 music 31, see also rmen 152 Shibuya Crossing 105, 6 Shugoarts 127 Tobacco & Salt Museum see Tokyo Kokuritsu
matsuri 16-20, see Entertainment subindex O Rape of Nanjing 57 Shichifuku-jin 101 Shuntaro, Tanikawa 34 106 Hakubutsukan
also festivals, 8 jazz 189-90 O-bon 18 recycling 40 Shichi-go-san (Seven soccer 199 Tods 112 Tokyo Opera City 114
Edo Tenka Matsuri 19 live music 186-7 Odaiba 130-3, 131 red light district 89, 119, 120 -Five-Three Festival) 19 Sony Building 61 TODs Omote-sand Tokyo Stock Exchange 54
Fukagawa Hachiman 19 mythical creatures 101 attractions 130-3 religion 22, 23, 26, 232 Shimoda 234 subway 242 Building 39 Tokyo Tower 95, 10
Hana Matsuri 18 food 173-4 reservations 156 Shinjuku 114-20, 115, 3, 9 Sugimoto-dera 232 Tgendai 227 Tokyo University, see
Hina Matsuri (Girls N shopping 147 restaurant bookings 156 accommodation 213-14 sukiyaki 153 Toguri Museum of Art 108 Tokyo Daigaku
Day) 17 Nagisa, shima 32 transport 130 Rikugi-en (Rikugi attractions 114-20 Sumida River 125-9, 126 toilets 254-5 Tokyo Wonder Site 69
Hiwatari Matsuri 17 Nakagin Capsule Tower Odawara 228 Garden) 60 bars 178 food 173 Tkei-ji 231 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan 71
Kanda Matsuri 18 38 -edo Onsen Monogatari Rinn-ji 223 food 169-71 Sumida River Hanabi 18 Tokyo 99, 103, 45, 48-9 Tomio Koyama Gallery
Otoko No Hi (Boys Nakamise-dri 137 (-edo Onsen Story) 130, Risa, Wataya 33 shopping 145-6, 83 Sumida-gawa (River) Tokyo Anime Center 69 127
Day) 18 Namco Namjatown 121 133, 11 Roppongi 94-9, 96-7 transport 114 Cruise 87, 8 Tokyo Big Sight 133 Tomioka Hachimang
Sanja Matsuri 18 Namiyoke-jinja 65 okonomiyaki 153 accommodation 211 Shinjuku L Tower 118 Sum Museum 125 Tokyo City View 95 (Tomioka Hachiman
Tokyo Jidai Matsuri Narita Airport 238 Okutama 220 attractions 94-9 Shinjuku NS Building 118 sum wrestling 125, 127, Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo Shrine) 125
(Festival of the Naruhito, Prince 30 Olympic Games, the 28 bars 182-4 Shinjuku Sumitomo 197-8, see also Sports University) 75 tonkatsu 154
Ages) 19 National Art Center, Tokyo me 220 food 164-5 Building 118 & Activities subindex Tokyo Designers Week 19 Tsh-g 72, 223
Matsuzaki 235 39, 99, 84 Omote-sand 137, 6 shopping 139-40 Shinjuku-gyen (Shinjuku Sunshine City 121 Tokyo Disney Resort 71 Toto Super Space 118
medical services 247-8 National Childrens Castle, Omotesand Hills 112 transport 94 Park) 119, 9 Sunshine International Tokyo Dome 58 tourist information 255
Meguro 100-4, 102 see Kodomo-no-Shiro onsen 193-5, 218-20, 228, Roppongi Hills 39, 94, 10 Shint 22, 23, 26 Aquarium 121 Tokyo Dome City 58-9, 71 tours 251
attractions 100-4 National Diet Building see also Sports & Royal Family 30, 50, see Shint shrines 88 Suntory Museum of Art 95 Tokyo Gallery 63 Toyo, Ito 39
transport 100 91, 10 Activities subindex also individual names Shiodome 64-6, 65, 5 sushi 151 Toyota Mega Web 132
Tokyo Game Show 19
National Museum of opening hours 74 running 195, see accommodation 206 sustainable travel 40 Traditional Crafts Museum,
Tokyo Hongan-ji 90
000 map pages Emerging Science & opera 31, 178, see also also Sports & Activites attractions 64-6 see Edo Shitamachi Dent
sweets 154 Tokyo Institute of
000 photographs Innovation, see Miraikan Entertainment subindex subindex
food 160 swimming 197 Technology 39 Kgeikan
276 277
 SELF-CATERING TRADITIONAL Bobbys Bar 183 Vanilla 185
lonelyplanet.com

train travel 241-4 East Shinjuku (Shinjuku) EATING GREEK

lonelyplanet.com
Ch & Sbu Lines 241 119 Gyros Hero 172 Kinokuniya International Botan 160 Bons 179 Womb 186
history 25 Nippori to Nish- ASIAN FUSION Bul-Lets 182
Supermarket 166 Hantei 161
private lines 242 Nippori 76 Daidaiya 163 Meidi-ya 166 Imahan 170 Chestnut & Squirrel 181
Daidaya 170 INDIAN COMEDY
stations 244 Shitamachi 89-90 National Azabu 166 Inakaya 164 Clubhouse 179 Asakusa Engei Hall 187
Monsoon 167 Delhi 163
subway 242 West Shinjuku Natural House 166 Isegen 161 Den Aquaroom 181 Tokyo Comedy Store 188
Moti 165
tickets & passes 242-3 (Nishi-Shinjuku) Yamaya 166 Kado 157 Dubliners 180
BELGIAN Nairs 158
Yamanote Line 241 118 Komagata Doj 162 Footnik 183
Beer Bar Bitter 157 Garam 180
DANCE
transport 237-44 walking, see hiking SHABU-SHABU Kujiraya 167
travellers cheques 251 Watari-Um (Watari INTERNATIONAL GB 180 Aoyama Enkei Gekij 177
BURGERS & Asakusa Imahan 162 Kushiya Monogatari 170
trekking, see hiking Museum of Contemporary Peter 156 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka Bunkamura Theatre
SANDWICHES Sakana-ya Ajisen 160
Tsukiji 64-6, 65 Art) 111 Zest Cantina Ebisu 166 184 Cocoon 177
Kua Aina 157 Sasa-no-yuki 161
attractions 64-6 weather 16 SINGAPOREAN Heartland 182 Session House 178
Hawker Style Asian Hub Pub 181 Space Zero 178
food 160 West Shinjuku (Nishi- ISRAELI TURKISH
transport 64 Shinjuku) 114-8
CAF Canteen 165 Insomnia Lounge 181
Shamaim 171 Marmara 172
Tsukiji Central Fish Market women travellers 257 @home Caf 161 Kinswomyn 180 JAZZ
64-5, 4 wood-block prints, Bens Caf 172 SOBA La Jete 180 B-Flat 189
Caf Artifagose 167 ITALIAN UNAGI
Tsukiji Outer Market 65 see ukiyo-e Kanda Yabu Soba 161 Las Chicas 181-182 Blue Note Tokyo 189
Caff Michelangelo 167 Canal Caf 157 Izu-ei 162
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-g work 257 Kinkantei 171 Lion Beer Hall 183 Hot House 189
Dada Caf 170 Taverna 172
230-1 Wright, Frank Lloyd 38 Namiki Yabu Soba Mistral Blue 182 Jazz Spot Intro 189
Les Deux Bleue 174 Vinoteca 164
TV 32, 42 WWII 26, 27-8, 55-6 163 VEGETARIAN Motown House 182 JZ Brat 189
Miraville Impakt 159 Nataraj 159 New York Grill & Bar 181 Shinjuku Pit Inn 190
U Y IZAKAYA Natural Harmony Angolo 169 Pasela 184 Sweet Basil 139 190
Christon Caf 170
SOBA &
Ueno 70-6, 72 yakiniku 153 CALIFORNIAN UDON Shizenkan 168 Pink Cow 181
accommodation 207-8 Yamanote (high city) 25, Sonoma 168 Gompachi 173 Propaganda 183 LIVE MUSIC
Okinawa 168 Sakata 159
attractions 70-6 44 VIETNAMESE Sasash 183 Cavern Club 186
food 161-2 Yamatane Bijutsukan CHANKONABE Ricos KItchen 165 Tokyo Apartment Caf 182
SPANISH Lotus Palace 163 Club Quattro 186
transport 70 (Yamatane Museum of Sasash 172 Tokyo Sports Caf 183
Tomoegata 173 Crocodile 186
Ueno Dbutsu-en (Ueno Art) 59 Seigetsu 157 El Castellano 168 What the Dickens 184
WINE BAR Eggman 186
Zoo) 71, 73 Yamato, the 22 Tetsugen Nikusho 169
CHINESE La.Mama 187
Ueno Zoo, see Ueno Yanaka Cemetery 76, 99 Toki-no-Ma 166 SUSHI & Mayu (Cocoon) 167
China Room 164 CINEMAS Liquid Room 187
Dbutsu-en Yasujir, zu 32 Yappari Tako 160 SASHIMI Cine Amuse East/West 188 Loft 187
Ueno-ken (Ueno Park) Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Daiwa Sushi 160 YAKINIKU Milk 187
INDEX

INDEX
Cinema Rise 188
70, 8 Shrine) 55, 5 CONTINENTAL JAPANESE Edogin 160 Nabi 169 Eurospace 188 Shibuya-ax 187
ukiyo-e 35 Yasunari, Kawabata 33 New York Grill 169-70 HEALTH FOOD Fukuzushi 164 Yakiniku Toraji Virgin Toho Cinemas Shibuya O-East 187
Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Yayoi, Kusama 30-1 Mominoki House 169 Hump 156 International 165 Roppongi Hills 188
Museum 111 Yayoi period 22 DELI Kybei 158 Waseda Shochiku 188 OPERA
Ume Hanami 17 yoga 197, see also Sports Park Hyatt Delicatessen 170 MEXICAN shima Endomae-dokoro YAKITORI Yebisu Garden Cinema 188 New National Theatre 178
unagi 154 & Activities subindex Fonda De La Madrugada 173 Akiyoshi 172
urban planning 41 Yoritomo, Minamoto no 168 Tsukiji Tama Sushi 173 Omoide-yokoch 171 THEATRE
uyoku, the 28 23, 24
DEPACHIKA CLASSICAL
Isetan 171 Yrakuch Yakitori Alley 159 MUSIC Cerulean Tower N
Yoshio, Taniguchi 39 SWISS Theatre 176
V Yoshitomo, Nara 30-1 Matsuya 171 MODERN Tokyo Philharmonic
Seibu 171 JAPANESE Chalet Swiss Mini 76, YAKITURI Orchestra 178 Die Pratze 177
vacations 249 youth hostels 203 162
Takashimaya Times Square Nobu 168 Birdland 158 Tokyo Symphony Kabuki-za (Kabuki
vaccinations 248 Yoyogi-ken (Yoyogi
171 Orchestra 178 Theatre) 61, 176, 2
vegetarian travellers 155 Park) 108
vending machines 145, 83 Yukio, Mishima 33 NORTH TEMPURA ENTERTAINMENT Kanze N-gakud 176
DIM SUM Daikokuya 163 Kokuritsu N-gakud 176
Venus Fort 133, 11 Yushima Seid (Yushima AFRICAN BARS CLUBS
Rakutei 163 Koma Theatre 120
Violy, Rafael 52 Shrine) 69 Din Tai Fung 160 Hannibal Deux 169 A971 182 Ageha 184
Ten-ichi 158 Suzunari Theatre 177
visas 256-7 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Ten-ten Tsune-tsune Advocates Caf 179 Club 3.2.8 184
Takarazuka Gekij 177
Shrine) 75 Kaitenbo 174 OKONOMIYAKI Agave 182 Club Asia 184
W Yshkan 57 Sometaro 162
THAI Albatross 179 Muse 185
walking tours FRENCH Kao Ta 172 Arty Farty 179 New Lex Edo 185 SHOPPING
Aoyama Architecture 112 Z Asterix 163 PUB
Aurora Lounge 179 Ruby Room 185 ANTIQUES
Zj-ji (Zj Temple) 98 Coucagno 167 TONKATSU Aux Amis Des Vins 183 Salsa Caribe 185 Fuji-Tori 143
000 map pages Zshigaya Cemetery 99 Hibiki 173 Bar Plastic Model 179 Salsa Sudada 185
LOsier 158 Futaba 162 Japan Sword 139
000 photographs Zuisen-ji 232 T Y Harbor Brewery 174 Bello Visto 181 Space Lab Yellow 185
Mushroom 165 Marugo Tonkatsu 161 Aoyama 142-145
278 279
 Kokuritsu Seiy Watari-Um (Watari TEMPLES & Miraikan (National
lonelyplanet.com

ART SUPPLIES Parco 142 TOYS Tokyo Dome 58

lonelyplanet.com
Itya 136 Seibu 146 Hakuhinkan Toy Park 137 Tokyo International Forum Bijutsu-kan (National Museum of Contemporary SHRINES Museum of Emerging
Sekaid 145-146 Tbu 146 KiddyLand 145 39, 52 Museum of Western Art) 111 Asakusa-Jinja (Asakusa Science & Innovation)
BOOKSHOPS Tky Hands 142 Shugoarts 127 Tokyo Metropolitan Art) 74 Yamatane Bijutsu-kan Temple) 86 130, 132
Shuntaro, Tanikawa 34 Government Offices Meguro Museum of Art, (Yamatane Museum of Chingod-ji (Chingod-ji Mori Art Museum 95
Blue Parrot 143
ELECTRICS 38, 118 Tokyo 103 Art) 59 Shrine) 87-9 Namco Namjatown 121
Good Day Books 143
Hacknet 140-141 Akihabara Radio Center SIGHTS Tokyo Midtown 95, 10 Meguro Parasitological Yshkan 57 Daien-ji (Daien Temple) Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan 71
140 AQUARIUMS Tokyo Opera City 114 Museum 103 MARKETS 100 Tokyo Disney Resort 71
Issei-do 143
Kaiyd Hobby Lobby 140 Sunshine International Tokyo Stock Exchange 54 Miraikan (National Tsukiji Central Fish Market Fukagawa Fud-d Ueno Dbutsu-en (Ueno
Kinokuniya 119, 143
Tsukumo Robotto koku Aquarium 121 Tokyo Tower 95, 10 Museum of Emerging 64-5, 4 (Fukugawa Fud Temple) Zoo) 71, 73
Mandarake 143
140 Tokyo Tower 98 Venus Fort 133, 11 Science & Innovation) Tsukiji Outer Market 65 127
Maruzen 143
130, 132 Gokoku-ji (Gokoku Temple) SLEEPING
GALLERIES MOA Art Museum 234 124 BUDGET HOTEL
CAMERAS HOMEWARES BOAT CRUISES Mori Art Museum 71, 95 PARKS &
Muji 137 & MUSEUMS GARDENS Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman Hotel Accela 209
Bic Camera 147 Sumida-gawa (River) Muse Tomo 99
Cruise 87 Advertising Museum Chingod-ji (Chingodo Temple) 63 Hotel New Azuma 209
Sakuraya 146 Museum of Contemporary
Tokyo 66 Shrine) 87-9 Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono Hotel New Ky 209
Yodobashi Camera 146 MARKETS Art, Tokyo 39, 127
Ancient Orient Museum Demb-in (Dembo Garden) Shrine) 119 Juyoh Hotel 209
Azabu-jban Antique BUILDINGS & 121 National Art Center, Tokyo Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) Tokyo Backpackers 209
CLOTHING Market 147 STRUCTURES 39, 99, 84 87
Asakura Chso Museum Hama Riky Onshi-teien 91
A Bathing Ape 144 Hanazono-jinja Flea Market Asakusa Engei Hall 90 75, 76 New tani Art Museum Kanda Myjin (Kanda
Chicago Thrift Store 143 147 Commes des Garons 59 (Detached Palace Garden) BUSINESS
Axis 99 66 Shrine) 69 HOTELS
Comme des Garons 144 Kappabashi-dri 138 Building 113 Baseball Hall of Fame Nihon Budkan 51
Hibiya-ken (Hibiya Kanei-ji 72 Arca Torre 211
GDC 141 Nakamise-dri 138 Fuji Television Japan & Museum 59 Shiseido Art House 62
Park) 61 Kannon-ji 76 Asia Center of Japan 210
Hysteric Glamour 143 Nogi-jinja Flea Market 147 Broadcast Center 39, 132 Bash Kinenkan (Bash Shiseido Gallery 62
Higashi-gyen (Imperial Meiji-jing (Meiji Shrine) City Hotel Lonestar 214
Hayashi Kimono 137 Roppongi Antique Fair 147 Golden Gai 119, 120 Museum) 128 Shitamachi Museum 75
Palace East Garden) 109, 6 Creston Hotel 212
Issey Miyake 144 Takeshita-dri 144 Hanae Mori Building 112 Beer Museum Yebisu 100 Shugoarts 127
51 Namiyoke-jinja 65 Ginza Nikk Hotel 206
Muji 137 Tg-jinja Fine Arts Market Hotel New tani 59 Bijutsukan Kgeikan 51 Sompo Japan Museum of
Hinokicho-ken 95 Sens-ji (Senso Temple) Hotel Bellclassic 215
Q Flagship Ebisu-Nishi 141 147 Isetan Building 119 Bridgestone Museum of Art 117, 118
Tsukiji Central Fish Market Kitanomaru-ken 85, 8 Hotel Century Southern
Shibuya 109 141 Jing-bashi (Jing Bridge) Art 52-3 Sum Museum 125
64-5, 4 (Kitanomaru Park) 51 Tenno-ji 76 Tower 214
Undercover 145 111 Bunkamura 107 Suntory Museum of Art 95
Tsukiji Outer Market 65 Koishikawa Krakuen Tokyo Hongan-ji 90 Hotel Ibis 211
Uniqlo 143 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) Complex 99 Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum
(Koishikawa Kraku Tomioka Hachimang Hotel Mets Shibuya 212
Yohji Yamamoto 144 61, 176, 2 Edo-Tokyo Museum 39, 125 Museum) 89
Kykyo (Imperial Palace) Garden) 58 (Tomioka Hachiman Hotel My Stays
MUSIC Taka Ishii Gallery 127
INDEX

INDEX
Fukagawa Edo Museum Shrine) 125
50, 4 Tepco Electric Energy Midtown Garden 95 Ochanomizu 207
CRAFTS Disk Union 146 129
Rikugi-en (Rikugi Tsh-g 72, 223
Axis 139 HMV 146-147 Laforet Building 112 Fune No Kagaku-kan Museum 107 Hotel Parkside 208
Louis Vuitton Building 112 Garden) 60 Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Hotel Strix Tokyo 215
Bingoya 139 Spiral Records 144 (Museum of Maritime Tobacco & Salt Museum
Meguro Gajoen (Meguro Shinjuku-gyen (Shinjuku Shrine) 55 Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku
Blue & White 139-140 Science) 71, 131 106
Wedding Hall) 104 Park) 119, 9 Yushima Seid (Yushima 214
Japan Traditional Craft SHOPPING Gallery Koyanagi 62 Toguri Museum of Art 108
National Diet Building Shizen Kyiku-en (Institute Shrine) 69 Hotel Sunroute
Center 146 MALLS Ghibli Museum 112 Tokyo Anime Center 69
91, 10 for Nature Study) 101 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Takadanobaba 215
Kamawanu 141 Daikanyama Address 141 Idemitsu Museum of Arts Tokyo Kokuritsu
Nicholai Cathedral 69 Ueno-ken (Ueno Park) Shrine) 75 Hotel Villa Fontaine
Oriental Bazaar 144 Decks Tokyo Beach 147 53-4 Hakubutsukan (Tokyo
Omotesand Hills 112 70, 8 Zj-ji (Zj Temple) Shiodome 206
Takumi 137 Laforet Building 144 Isetan Art Gallery 119 National Museum) 73
Pentax Forum 118 Yoyogi-ken (Yoyogi 98 Mitsui Urban Hotel Ginza
Tsutsumu Factory 141 Roppongi Hills 140 Japanese Sword Museum Tokyo Metropolitan
Prada Aoyama Building 116 Government Offices Park) 108 206
Yoshitoku 138 shopping streets 137 39, 113 Japan Traditional Craft 38, 116 TOKYO FOR National Childrens Castle
Tokyo Midtown 140 Roppongi Hills 39, 94, 10 CHILDREN
DEPARTMENT Venus Fort 147 Center 123 Tokyo Metropolitan SHOPPING Hotel 213
Shinjuku L Tower 118 JCII Camera Museum 58 Museum of Art 74 STREETS Fune No Kagaku-kan New Central Hotel 207
STORES Yebisu Garden Place 141 Shinjuku NS Building 118 Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Tokyo Metropolitan Edo Shitamachi Dent (Museum of Maritime Park Hyatt Tokyo 213
Don Quixote 140 Shinjuku Sumitomo Museum) 51 Museum of Photography Kgeikan (Traditional Science) 131 Presso Inn Kanda 207
Isetan 146 SOUVENIRS Building 118 Kant Earthquake Memo- 103, 12 Crafts Museum) 89 Hanayashiki Amusement Ryokan Katsutar Annex
Loft 142 Kamawanu 141 Sony Building 61 rial Museum 128 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Kaminarimon-dri 90 Park 71, 90 208
Matsuya 137 Spiral Building 113 Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubut- Art Museum 104 Kappabashi-dri Ikebukuro Bsai-kan Shibuya City Hotel 212
Matsuzakaya 137 Sunshine City 121
SPECIALTY sukan (National Science Tokyo Wonder Site 69 (Kappabashi Street) 88, (Ikebukuro Earthquake Shibuya Tbu Hotel 212
Mitsukoshi 136 Tods 112
STORES Museum) 74-6 Tomio Koyama Gallery 90, 137 Hall) 71, 123 Shibuya Tky Inn 212
Condomania 145 Tokyo Big Sight 133 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan 127 Shibuya Crossing 105, 6 Kodomo-no-Shiro 71 Shinjuku Park Hotel 214
000 map pages Puppet House 139 Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo (National Museum of Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Takeshita-dri (Takeshita Meguro Parasitological Suigetsu Hotel gai-s 208
000 photographs Ranking Ranqueen 142 University) 75 Modern Art) 51 Museum 111 Street) 109 Museum 103 Tokyo Business Hotel 214
280 281
 Lonely Planet Publications
lonelyplanet.com
Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi
No. 1 215
Ueno First City Hotel 208
Villa Fontaine Roppongi
Annex 211
Yaesu Terminal Hotel 205
CAPSULE
HOTELS
Capsule Land Shibuya 213
Green Plaza Shinjuku 214
HOSTELS
Khaosan Guesthouse 210
Ks House 210
Sakura Hostel 210
Sakura Hotel 205
Tokyo International Hostel
205
LOVE HOTELS
Love Hotel Hill 105
LUXURY HOTELS
ANA Intercontinental
Tokyo 210
Arimax Hotel 212
Asakusa View Hotel 209
Cerulean Tower Tky Tokyo Dome 198-99
Hotel 212
Crowne Plaza Metropolitan
INDEX
Hotel 215
Excel Tokyu Hotel 212
Four Seasons Hotel
Chinzan-s 215
Grand Hyatt Tokyo 211
Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka
205
Hilton Tokyo 213
Hotel Avanshell Akasaka 210
Hotel New tan 205
Hotel kura 210
Hotel Seiy Ginza 205
Hyatt Regency Tokyo 213
Imperial Hotel 206
Kei Plaza Hotel 213
Marunouchi Hotel 205
Mercure Hotel Ginza Tokyo
206
000 map pages
000 photographs
282
Palace Hotel 204
Peninsula hotel 204
Shinjuku Prince Hotel 214
Sunshine City Prince Hotel
215
Westin Hotel Tokyo 211
Yama-no-Ue (Hilltop)
Hotel 207
RYOKAN
Andon Ryokan 215
Capsule Hotel Riverside
209
House Ikebukuro 216
Kimi Ryokan 216
Ryokan Katsutar 208
Ryokan Sansuis 215
Ryokan Shigetsu 209
Sawanoya Ryokan 208
Sukeroku No Yado
Sadachiyo 209
Suzuki Ryokan 208
Tama Ryokan 216
Tokyo Ryokan 210
SPORTS &
ACTIVITES
BASEBALL
International Aikid
Jing Baseball Stadium 198
CYCLING
Eight Rent 195
Imperial Palace Cycling
Course 195
Meiji-jings Outer Gardens ONSEN
196
ENGLISH
CONVERSATION
CAFS Minakami Onsen 220
Com Inn 198 -edo Onsen Monogatari
Leafcup 198
Mickey House 198
Rokuryu Ksen 195
GOLF
Tokyo Tomin Golf Course
196
GYMS & POOLS Takaragawa Onsen 220
Chiyoda Sogo Taikikan Tenzan 228
Pool 197 Yashio-no-yu Onsen 225
Ch-ku Sogo Sports Yumoto Onsen 225
Centre 197
Tokyo Metropolitan RUNNING
Gymnasium Indoor Pool Hash House Harriers 195
197-200
SENT
HORSE RACING Asakusa Kannon Sent
i Keibaj 199 194
Tokyo Keibaj 199 Jakotsu-Yu 194
Komparu-Yu Onsen 194
ICE-SKATING Koshi-No-Yu Sent 194
La Qua Spa 194
Meiji-jing Ice Skating
-edo Onsen Monogatari
Rink 196
194
Takadanobaba Citizen Ice
Skate Rink 196
SOCCER
LANGUAGE National Stadium 199
COURSES
Academy of Language SUM
Arts 195 WRESTLING Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
East West Japanese Rygoku Kokugikan 197-98 restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Language Institute 195
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
YOGA
MARTIAL ARTS International Yoga Centre
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
197 the above - Do the right thing with our content.
Federation 192
Kdkan Judo Institute 192
Kymeikan 192 TOP PICKS
World Union of Karate-d Contemporary Art
Organisation 192 Venues 30
Contemporary Buildings
39
Chjkan Inn 218 Clubs 185
Ikaho Onsen 220 For Vegetarians 155
Kappa Tengoku 228 International Food 154
Kusatsu Onsen 220 Live Music Venues 187
La Qua Spa 58 News Sites 42
Places To Go For Broke
152
(-edo Onsen story) Quirky Events 17
130, 133 Ryokan 203
Shopping Streets 137
Sawada-ken Rotemburo Traditional Art Venues 37
Onsen 235 Traditional Crafts Shops
Shiriyaki Onsen 220 139