Touch, Textiles, and the Modern Consumer

College of Charleston

COMM 480-481

Dr. Parisi

Rachel Rothermel

Taylor Sekanovich

Jake Irmiter

Abstract
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During the past two decades, a growing demand in online retail has changed how

marketers and consumers interact. The emergence of the internet as peoples primary source for

media and information has forever transformed the science behind marketing. Various industries

have adapted to online marketing at different speeds, and this shift was more natural for some

industries than others. The textile and fashion industries initially resisted the shift to online retail

due to the high importance of products tactile properties. Simultaneously, the digitization of

touch has lagged far behind the advancements made relating to the more technologically

conspicuous senses, namely hearing and vision. Modern online media representations of textiles

provide a poor representation of their haptic properties, and a significant perceptual gap exists in

the ability of marketers to communicate the touch qualities of fabrics. We set out to investigate

the history of this problem as well as modern efforts to solve it, establishing a list of readings

based on their relevance to our area of focus, and analyzing their content using a Critical

Discourse Analysis approach. We found that a set of situational factors determine how important

touch information is to a consumer, and we discovered that the touch qualities of products can be

divided into different types. Certain types of touch information prevalent in textiles cannot be

effectively communicated verbally, hence the perceptual gap. We examined modern efforts

within the industry to address this problem, and found that most cutting-edge efforts revolve

around either the use of vibratory stimuli or the use of multi-sensory interaction.

Keywords: Perceptual Gap, Digital Sensoria, iSHOOGLE, Textiles, Haptics, Gestures,

Textile Hand, Surface Haptics, Tanvas

Table of Contents

Abstract1

Introduction..3-4
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Background.5-10

Method.

Critical Discourse Analysis.

Results..

Haptic Technology..

Need For Touch (NFT) ...

Discussion and Analysis...

Conclusion and Future Study

Gaps in Knowledge ..

Limitations ..

Future Study.

Reference List..

Appendix..

Introduction

The sense of touch is often regarded as inferior to senses more easily reached by

marketers such as hearing and vision. Historically, touch has been viewed through the lens of
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 3

necessity. Current researchers have become increasingly interested in consumers interactions

with textile properties and gestures. These observations are used to decipher how consumers use

touch, and convey these actions through haptic feedback. The ability to appeal to the sense of

touch digitally could revolutionize online retail and speed up the already fast paced process of e-

commerce, closing the gap between consumers and producers. Scholars, computer scientists,

philosophers, and advertisers alike are beginning to become more aware of consumers desires

for tactile information.

Our research began by asking ourselves if marketers are currently attempting to more

accurately communicate qualities of touch in products? We chose to focus on the textile industry

based on the fact that products within this industry are rich in tactile information and our belief

that consumers within this industry place a high value on tactile information. We found that

many experts within the fashion industry held serious doubts about the legitimacy of online

fashion retail as recently as 2000, and that the industry has lagged behind other markets in terms

of advancements to digital marketing and e-commerce. Much of the early dissent among experts

regarding online fashion retail was rooted in the fact that fashion consumers have a strong desire

to physically touch a product before purchasing it, which fell in line with our original assumption

(Peck & Childers, 2003).

One of the most prevalent themes found within our readings was the general

understanding and study of touch is significantly underdeveloped compared to the other senses.

We sought to gain perspective on our research by attempting to situate the modern problem of

the perceptual gap within the broader historic context of the study of touch. The goal was to be

able to evaluate why touch seems to be relatively underdeveloped. Initially, we struggled to find

relevant sources before the late 1900s. The ongoing investigate though the history of the senses
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 4

led us to valuable information on touch. We found that touch was largely regarded as a primitive,

inferior sense for decades during which significant advancements were being made in humans

understanding of the other senses (Geldard, 1977).

After amassing a large amount of information validating the existence of a perceptual gap

and the need to address it digitally, we gradually shifted our focus to analysis of cutting-edge

efforts to solve this problem. Current research in the field centers around two vastly different

approaches; the use of vibratory stimuli delivered with haptic feedback hardware, and the use of

the multi-sensory interaction to create a Visual Preview Model (Peck, 2003). The former

draws on more established research and is being pioneered by a company called Tanvas. The

latter is based on cutting-edge neuroscience theories and finds Pawel Orzechowski and his

iShoogle project at the top of the field.

Our findings confirmed that the perceptual gap is a setback in online fashion retail, and

one that experts are indeed working to solve. We were not surprised to learn that fashion and

textile consumers place a high value on touch information and respond emotionally to it, nor

were we surprised to learn that methods for communicating this touch information digitally are

few and far between. However, we did not expect to uncover a history of dissent among fashion

experts in regard to online retail (Peck & Childers, 2003). We were also quite surprised by the

methods being employed by scientists who are attempting to bridge this perceptual gap in online

retail.

Background

The textile industry lacks a reliable method for evaluating, measuring, and

communicating tactile properties of products, placing it behind other fields, such as food and

cosmetics, [where] specific tools have been developed and standardized to describe the sensory
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 5

characteristics of diverse products, from facial creams to ice creams (Sular & Okur, 2007). This

has become more of a problem as e-commerce has continued to grow in its dominance. When

clothing is concerned, tactile properties have a greater importance [compared to other items],

making it even more difficult to convey accurately online (Sular & Okur, 2007). The fashion

industrys initial skepticism about moving into online retail combined with the

underdevelopment of research for digitizing touch has created a problem within this market, one

where the touch qualities of products are crucial to the decision making processes of consumers.

Online shopping, although intended to be a tool of convenience, now has consumers

begging for the technology to facilitate an immersive, sensory experience. Most items sold

online were, and still are, accompanied by visual media that attempts to communicate

information to the consumer regarding the physical qualities of an item. While this may be

changing, advertisers and clothing companies alike are noticing that, although each of [the

senses] is a potentially important system for the processing of information, the sense of sight has

perhaps received the greatest amount of attention (Peck & Childers, 2007). This is why the

perceptual gap exists, and why it is such a problem in markets such as fashion and textiles where

tactile information makes up the majority of the products defining characteristics.

Peck and Childers discuss in To Have and To Hold: The Influence of Haptic Information

on Product Judgements, the importance of haptic information and the impact it has on

consumers. Peck and Childers state, product categories in which the material properties of

texture, hardness, temperature, or weight information vary in a diagnostic manner are more likely

to encourage touch, (2003). The level of motivation consumers have to obtain haptic

information and the salience of this information is determined by a products characteristic

factors, individual consumer factors, and situational factors.

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When examining product characteristic factors, an important distinction must be made

between the two types of haptic information that consumers attempt to extract from products;

instrumental and autotelic touch qualities. Instrumental touch qualities are, specific to the goal-

directed evaluation of a products performance (Peck & Childers, 2003). These properties have

to do with a products structure rather than the consumers sensory enjoyment of the product. In

contrast, autotelic forms of information are related to the sensory experience and hedonic

appreciation of the product, (2003). Textile goods are products that are extraordinarily rich in

autotelic touch information, due to the fact that wearing clothing involves a direct sensory

experience with the product.

Individual consumer factors are also important in determining the value and salience of

haptic information. A multitude of evidence has been found that individual preferences for

sensory information vary greatly from one person to another. Peck and Childers state that, for

certain people, haptic information is chronically more salient, and these haptically oriented

people are more likely to use this information for product evaluation, (2003). They define this

level of haptic motivation as the consumers need for touch, or NFT. Consumers shopping for

textile products are generally high in NFT, and are likely to develop a sense of frustration if they

are forced to shop without the opportunity to directly touch the products (Peck & Childers,

2003).

The high NFT of consumers in the textile industry created considerable dissent among

fashion experts regarding the online retail boom that occurred around the beginning of the new

millennium. Italian clothes designer Ottavio Missoni has been quoted saying, because of the

products we are offering and the clients we have throughout the world, we dont see a real need

for this kind of [online or web-based] strategy [...] our clients want to touch the fabrics (Peck &
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 7

Childers, 2003). This sentiment was echoed throughout the industry circa 2000, and while online

retail has clearly boomed despite these initial concerns, the issue raised by Missoni has

blossomed into a significant problem for the textile and fashion industries.

Research done by Peck and Childers in the early 2000s shows that written descriptions

and other forms of compensatory information can effectively moderate the desire to obtain haptic

information in some cases. However, the effectiveness of such techniques is determined by the

previously outlined factors involving instrumental versus autotelic touch qualities and the

consumers NFT. Peck and Childers found that while written descriptions of haptic properties are

sufficient in cases of low-NFT, for the more autotelic aspect of touching for pleasure, a written

description would not adequately represent this rich sensory experience and would not be

expected to compensate for a lack of touch for more haptically motivated consumers, (Peck &

Childers, 2003). Both the previous literature cited by Peck and Childers, and their own research

from 2003, serve to position the problem of a perceptual gap in online fashion retail within a

scientific context.

Peck and Childers also discuss the concept of the visual preview model. This is a

relatively new cognitive psychology theory which suggests that visual cues can cause, broad but

coarse haptic information to be generated by the brain. Peck and Childers conclude that a

meaningful extrinsic nonhaptic cue could successfully moderate the motivation to obtain

tactile information in cases of high-NFT consumers and products rich in autotelic touch

properties (2003). The theory of the visual preview model is closely related to the idea of multi-

sensory interaction and substitution, the driving concept behind one of the most intriguing

modern efforts to address the perceptual gap in digital textile marketing: Dr. Pawel

Orzechowskis iShoogle project.

TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 8

iShoogle is a touchscreen fabric simulator that translates the gestures people use when

handling textiles into gestures that can be performed on a phone or tablet. The simulator

responds to these gestures by providing visual cues that allow the user to perceive the touch

qualities of the fabric (Orzechowski, 2016). While research in the area of haptic feedback is

plentiful, little prior effort had been made on the part of scientists to investigate the ways people

examine fabrics with their hands. Orzechowski and his team used this gesture-centric approach

to design and test the iShoogle interface, with the goals of enabling low-cost prototyping of

digital fabric samples and allowing consumers to easily interact with these samples on their

smartphones (Atkinson, et al. 2013).

The designing of iShoogle was a direct response to the problem of the perceptual gap in

online fashion retail. Orzechowski and his team aligned the goals of their research with solving

the issues presented by Peck & Childers in the early 2000s in regard to high-NFT consumers

seeking haptic information about products. The iShoogle projects methodology is focused on

using the visual preview model to essentially trick the brain into perceiving haptic information

(Peck & Childers, 2003). This use of multi-sensory substitution (a visual cue resulting in haptic

information) is presented as a work-around for needing haptic feedback hardware that would not

be available to most consumers (Atkinson, et al. 2013).

While Orzechowski and the iShoogle team are using cutting-edge neuroscience theory to

find new ways of communicating haptic information digitally, other modern efforts continue to

make advancements in more familiar territory. Tanvas, a technology company co-founded by

haptics experts Ed Colgate and Michael Peshkin, has been developing tablets that use advanced

vibratory stimuli to produce haptic information. Tanvas users have an actual tactile experience

while touching the screen, contrary to iShoogles visual preview model approach. However, this
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requires haptic feedback hardware that is not found in standard touchscreen devices; anyones

iPhone can run iShoogle, but using Tanvas requires purchasing one of their surface haptics

tablets (Colgate et al., 2015).

The study of vibratory stimuli and haptic information is relatively established compared

to the study of multisensory interaction and substitution. The complexity of the skin and the

ways in which it interacts with stimuli has long been an area of interest among scientists. Frank

Geldard was a Psychologist who conducted extensive research on vibratory stimuli at Princeton

University in the 1970s. He is best known for his discovery of the cutaneous rabbit

phenomenon, a tactile illusion produced by delivering a series of vibratory stimuli in succession

at various points on the body. Rather than experiencing the stimuli individually, subjects feel the

sensation gradually move across the skin, as if a rabbit were crawling up their arm (Geldard,

1977).

Geldard determined that, whenever two [or more] successive stimuli are presented to the

skin, there is a regular and predictable error of localization. The regularity and predictability of

this phenomenon are important factors which suggest that learning to manipulate vibratory

stimuli could be a very powerful tool. Geldard hits at the possibilities: If successive stimuli are

just moved around a little spatially, a whole new sensory and perceptual realm is revealed

(Geldard, 1977). One has to wonder what the deceased Geldard would have to say about Tanvas

and their use of vibratory stimuli to unlock the sensory and perceptual realm he hypothesized

about over 50 years ago.

Method (2 pages)

Given that our study was largely based in evaluating other scholars research, theories,

and ideas, we decided to conduct a critical discourse analysis. By gathering our sources, studying
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 10

their viewpoints, and making connections between similar ideas, we were able to situate our own

assumptions within the context of their research. We approached the topic of touch with a very

broad interest. Once we became intrigued by Pawel Orzechowski and Bruna Petrecas focus on

the textile and fashion industry, we were able to narrow down our search to authors that

specifically critiqued the consumer experience and analyzed a gap in tactile perceptions. From

this point, we identified several textual sources that considered tactile technologys impact on e-

commerce and consumer satisfaction. At this point in our research, we had nearly fifteen articles

that addressed topics similar to a textile perceptual gap.

Critical Discourse Analysis

We came up with five points of criteria to achieve a working sample of sources. These

included mentions of: efforts to improve retail experience and e-commerce, a multi-sensory

interaction or substitution, the ability to communicate perceived touch qualities, marketing and

consumerism in the fashion industry, or historical relevance to the study of touch. Once we

applied this criteria, we had our final sample of eight sources to give us the information we

would need to conduct an effective analysis of this field of research.

This technique of critical discourse analysis allowed us to eliminate the information that

addressed other aspects of haptics and the study of touch. We determined that these sources were

not useful to us as they cluttered the view of the textiles and e-commerce information that we

were seeking. Initially, we struggled with the problem of being unable to synthesize much of the

highly scientific information we were finding. Many of the resources directly related to our area

of focus were heavy with data-centric information involving neuroscience and haptics;

information that we lacked the background to evaluate and use. We shifted our focus to working
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 11

to situate modern research within the context of both the history of haptics and the brief history

of online retail.

Our sources and research all complement each other, building off of previous studies and

results. We were able to combine a wide range of perspectives and connect and differentiate

experts in the field. Through critical discourse analysis, we were able to compare gaps in

research, different approaches, and ideologies. For our research, it was important for us to look at

the fashion and textile industry as a whole, then to dig deeper to see the contributes. The

ideologies of the research of textiles and haptics really demonstrates the variety of approaches to

similar areas of research impacts outcomes and results. The different angles used helped us

narrowed down our focus by choosing a team of researchers that share similar goals, areas of

research, and expertise. Overall, sharing similar structural relationships in their research.

We did run into some limitations with this research technique, however. Critical

discourse analysis involves the cultivation of a sampling of research items that has no specific

parameters. This means we were unable to know for certain when we had reached the point of

saturation or when we had collected enough information to satisfy our needs. While we were

able to assemble a reliable sample of articles, there will always be some doubt given the chosen

technique as to whether or not we addressed all of the information available in this field of

research.

Results (3-4 pages)

The major findings of our research prove that haptic technology is increasingly being

considered as a marketing and sales tool for the fashion industry. The introduction of haptic-

stimuli technology, like iShoogle and Tanvas, come with their own concerns. However, their

existence and research are examples of the advancements the industry is interested in and see as
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 12

valuable contributions to their online presence. Also, the consumers varying need for tactile

experiences impacts the research and production of new technology. The technology used in

devices like Tanvas require a certain interfaces that do not meet the needs of devices already

available to the public. This includes iPads and tablets, which are not capable of the interface, or

screen, required to experience the surface haptic technology. Therefore, the device cannot

communicate the multisensory experiences, textures, and intended reaction without the Tanvas

surface haptic device.

Haptic Technology

iShoogle uses sensory substitution methods for portraying haptic information. This was

particularly interesting to us as using haptic information online could possibly be based in the

manipulation of our other senses. This technique was unprecedented in our research, making it

significant to our exploration of this topic. Atkinson et al. discovered that when, visual

presentation is synchronously coordinated with touch feedback the textural properties of a

visually presented object are haptically perceived, even if the touch feedback is of an object of a

different texture, (2013). iShoogle is the first in its field of technology to make use of this

psychological phenomenon, making it important to note. The ability to create a textual

simulation by simply recording how the specific fabric moves under certain lighting and three of

the most universal gestures, have led to designers exploiting these mechanisms in particular in

work on gesture for surface computing, (2013).

Need For Touch (NFT)

Consumers differ on their inherent need to feel products. This discovery was significant

as well, because it highlights the very reason the current design for online commerce is failing.

When consumers that are high in NFT attempt to purchase clothing online, they are paralyzed in
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the purchasing process because they lack a tactile experience.This was not only interesting

because it showed consumer differences and the importance of knowing the online shopping

demographic, but also because this showed to be the main driver behind the motivation for

creating technology like iShoogle and Tanvas. These groups were able to recognize this

disconnect between consumer need and company ingenuity. Consumers who are high NFT are

the target market for these innovations.

Discussion and Analysis (3-4 pages)

The research weve concluded lays out historical and foundational knowledge of touch

and technology. Our research was to explore previous works on the subject to see the growth and

the gaps in haptic technology. Specifically, our goal was to explore the growth in the

communication of touch qualities through technology, looking at the impacts the research has on

marketing and sales of online shopping.

Our findings serve as a significant contribution particularly to advertisers and clothing

brands that should be aware of how this technology has the potential to address some of their

previously unreachable audiences online. With this research, the textile industry could rewrite

their less productive marketing model to appeal to a much broader array of consumers,

ultimately more revenue through online sales. It is important to highlight the fascination and

relevance surrounding haptic technology that could encourage or inspire other researchers to

conduct similar experimental technologies for this purpose.

The research that we surveyed often became interconnected, showing that contributions

from new research scholars would have a large impact on the understanding of the sense of touch

in retail marketing. We found a conversation of research taking place among these authors that

were all working towards a relatively similar goal. For example, Orzechowskis team situates the
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 14

perceptual gap problem by thinking directly in line with Peck & Childers in the early 2000s,

saying that, consumers acquire most information about products through vision and touch, and

that consumers respond more emotionally to tactile elements of products which could directly

impact their purchasing power (Atkinson et al., 2013). This viewpoint relates back to Joann Peck

and Terry L. Childers argument that their studies showed touch is essentially neglected in retail

environments (2003, 2007). Atkinson et al. assert this same concern, stating that, the touch

senses are not fully catered for, (Atkinson, et al. 2013).

A major topic of study in the haptic field is the touch display. In Feeling and Seeing:

Issues of Force Display, Minsky, et al. research explores hardware and software to implement

force display. Their research began with the experimentation of texture, arguing that force

display has potential to communicare surface texture and bulk properties (1990).

We believe that we can make computer interface systems which can synthesize all of

these in order to do that we need to understand both the perceptual and computational issues

(Minsky et. Al, 1990)

iShoogle and Tanvas

Conclusion and Future Study (2 pages)

As online and offline experiences as a consumer begins to blur through the rise of

ecommerce and online shopping, technologies continue to change the nature of retail and

consumer experiences. Amongst the new technologies reshaping the fashion industry in order to

stay relevant with sales and marketing, touch technologies are significant advancements needed

to transform the fashion industry, especially online shopping and conveying textile properties.

Gaps in Knowledge
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Gaps in our research include the potential merge of secluded haptic technology with

major technology companiesApple, Samsung, and Microsoft. Therefore, the technology is not

accessible to a public consumer. Untimely, the ability for software and interfaces to be

compatible, and not limiting certain consumers and devices access to the haptic advancements in

the fashion and textile industry.

Limitations

A limitation to our research and method of study was the ability to interact with the

technologies and interfaces, such as iShoogle, force display technologies, and different haptic

surfaces. The ability to have a hand-on, personal interaction with the devices and haptic

technology would have given us a better understanding of the approaches to individual

experiments and studies conducted.

Future Study

We would advise for future study that an experiment be conducted on individuals

differences in perceived touch quality as this is what we proposed but did not necessarily have

the means to make evaluations regarding the findings we would have received.
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 16

Reference List

Atkinson, D., Orzechowski, P., Petreca, B., Bianchi-Berthouze, N., Watkins, P., Baurley, S., ...

&

Chantler, M. (2013, April). Tactile perceptions of digital textiles: a design research

approach. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI conference on human factors in computing

systems (pp. 1669-1678). ACM.

Colgate, J. E., Olley, M. F., & Peshkin, M. A. (2015). U.S. Patent Application No. 15/117,277.

Geldard, F. A. (1977). Cutaneous stimuli, vibratory and saltatory. Journal of Investigative

Dermatology, 69(1), 83-87.

Minsky, M., Ming, O. Y., Steele, O., Brooks Jr, F. P., & Behensky, M. (1990, February). Feeling

and seeing: issues in force display. In ACM SIGGRAPH Computer Graphics (Vol. 24,

No. 2, pp. 235-241). ACM.

Orzechowski, P. (2016). IShoogle: Pinching Sweaters on Your Phone. Edinburgh: Heriot-Watt

University.

Peck, J., & Childers, T. L. (2003). To Have and To Hold: The influence of haptic information on
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 17

product judgments. Journal of Marketing, 67(2), 35-48.

Peck, J., & Childers, T. L. (2007). Sensory factors and consumer behavior. Handbook of

Consumer Psychology, 193-219.

Sular, V., & Okur, A. (2007). Sensory evaluation methods for tactile properties of fabric.

Journal of Sensory Studies, 22(1), 1-16.

CDA Criteria
Criteria:
1. Efforts to improve retail experience and e-commerce
a. Peck, J., & Childers, T. L. (2003). To Have and To Hold: The influence of haptic
information on product judgments. Journal of Marketing, 67(2), 35-48.
TOUCH RESEARCH REPORT TOUCH 18

b. Peck, J., & Childers, T. L. (2007). Sensory factors and consumer behavior.
Handbook of Consumer Psychology, 193-219.

2. A multi-sensory interaction or substitution

a. Orzechowski, P. (2016). IShoogle: Pinching Sweaters on Your Phone. Edinburgh:
Heriot-Watt University.
b. Colgate, J. E., Olley, M. F., & Peshkin, M. A. (2015). U.S. Patent Application No.
15/117,277.
c. Atkinson, D., Orzechowski, P., Petreca, B., Bianchi-Berthouze, N., Watkins, P.,
Baurley, S., ... & Chantler, M. (2013, April). Tactile perceptions of digital
textiles: a design research approach. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI conference on
human factors in computing systems (pp. 1669-1678). ACM.
d. Minsky, M., Ming, O. Y., Steele, O., Brooks Jr, F. P., & Behensky, M. (1990,
February). Feeling and seeing: issues in force display. In ACM SIGGRAPH
Computer Graphics (Vol. 24, No. 2, pp. 235-241). ACM.

3. The ability to communicate perceived touch qualities

a. Geldard, F. A. (1977). Cutaneous stimuli, vibratory and saltatory. Journal of
Investigative Dermatology, 69(1), 83-87.
b. Orzechowski, P. (2016). IShoogle: Pinching Sweaters on Your Phone. Edinburgh:
Heriot-Watt University.
c. Colgate, J. E., Olley, M. F., & Peshkin, M. A. (2015). U.S. Patent Application No.
15/117,277.
d. Minsky, M., Ming, O. Y., Steele, O., Brooks Jr, F. P., & Behensky, M. (1990,
February). Feeling and seeing: issues in force display. In ACM SIGGRAPH
Computer Graphics (Vol. 24, No. 2, pp. 235-241). ACM.
e. Atkinson, D., Orzechowski, P., Petreca, B., Bianchi-Berthouze, N., Watkins, P.,
Baurley, S., ... & Chantler, M. (2013, April). Tactile perceptions of digital
textiles: a design research approach. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI conference on
human factors in computing systems (pp. 1669-1678). ACM.

4. Marketing and consumerism in the fashion industry

a. Sular, V., & Okur, A. (2007). Sensory evaluation methods for tactile properties of
fabric. Journal of Sensory Studies, 22(1), 1-16.
5. Historical relevance to the study of touch
a. Geldard, F. A. (1977). Cutaneous stimuli, vibratory and saltatory. Journal of
Investigative Dermatology, 69(1), 83-87.