A REPORT ON APPAREL INTERNSHIP

BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (APPAREL PRODUCTION)

SUBMITTED BY

AMRITA KHATRI

PURNIMA VATS

INDUSTRY MENTOR

MR. KAMAL SHARMA & MR. MAHENDRA SONAWANE

(PRODUCTION G.M. & I.E.)

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF

MR.ABHAY KUMAR

(ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR D.F.T.)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, PATNA

 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

ABSTRACT
The report contains the details of cutting and stitching department which we have gone through
during our internship at Siyaram's Silk Mills Ltd. along with the documentation of the working
procedures and information flow systems done, department wise.

The real life experiences gathered through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects
and application of theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the
spheres of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation.

The Apparel Internship at SIYARAM'S SILK MILLS LTD. is evidently the experience which
provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience.

Our Major Objectives during internship are

1. To study the process and working of the individual departments in the organization.

2. To study the departmental interrelation within the organization.

3. To study the Organizational Structure.

4. Most importantly, to undertake the suitable projects for the company or assignments as per the
requirement of the industry.

In this report, we have tried our best to sum up our work and experience and the total work
process of the industry through observations and interactions.

SIYARAM'S 2|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Hard work, guidance, perseverance are the prerequisites for achieving success. Support from an
enlightening source helps to tread on the path to it. We would like to express our gratitude
towards the esteemed institution National Institute of Fashion Technology for being such an
enlightening source to us. My sincere thanks to our faculties for their valuable support, help and
guidance inspired us throughout the course of this project. We would like to thank SIYARAM'S
SILK MILLS LTD for selecting us as an internee, who is being inspiring and helps to broaden
the knowledge of Apparel manufacturing

We sincerely thank our Mr. Prasad, Vice-President and Mr. Kamal Sharma, GM, Siyaram's Silk
Mills Pvt Ltd., for their support and cooperation for inspiring us and providing all possible
knowledge and help for this project. The technical assistance, precious suggestions and strong
monitoring of various heads of the department, helped us in completing the work. We would like
to thank for all facilities and the support extended to us during the course of the project.

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Sadashiv Patil (HR) and Mr. Lalit
Singh(HR) for supporting us.

This induction would not have been possible without the valuable inputs from Mr. Braj Bandhu
(Shirt Cutting), Mr. Moreshwar (Trouser Cutting), Mr. Nimesh Parmer and Mr. Prashant
Mishra(CAD), Mr. Pramod Panda(Shirt Stitching), Mr. Sunil Jha(Shirt Finiishing) Mr. Abdhul
Ghani(Trouser stitching) and Mr. Amit Chaudhary(Trouser finishing) and Mr. Arun(Trouser
Q.C.). We thank them all for all their support.

SIYARAM'S 3|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Table of Contents

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM ........................................................................................................ 5

BASIC WORKFLOW ...................................................................................................................... 5
INPUT ............................................................................................................................................... 6
PROCESS ......................................................................................................................................... 6
OUTPUT ........................................................................................................................................... 6
SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT ........................................................................................ 9
BASIC WORK FLOW ..................................................................................................................... 9
ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS.................................................................................................... 10
BLOCK CUTTING ........................................................................................................................ 11
SORTING AND TICKETING ....................................................................................................... 12
CUT PANEL CHECKING ............................................................................................................. 12
BUNDLING .................................................................................................................................... 12
SORTING ....................................................................................................................................... 13
EMBROIDERY .............................................................................................................................. 13
FUSING .......................................................................................................................................... 13
STITCHING DEPARTMENT.................................................................................................................... 15
SHIRT STITCHING ....................................................................................................................... 17
OPERATIONS INVOLVED ...................................................................................................... 18
TROUSER STITCHING.............................................................................................................. 21
OPERATIONS INVOLVED .................................................................................................... 21
CHECKING .................................................................................................................................. 24
FRONT CHECK POINT ............................................................................................................ 25
BACK CHECK POINT .............................................................................................................. 25
ASSEMBLY LINE CHECKING................................................................................................ 26
END LINE CHECK POINT ....................................................................................................... 26
FINISHING DEPARTMENT ..................................................................................................................... 28
SHIRT FINISHING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................ 30
OPERATIONS INVOLVED ...................................................................................................... 30

SIYARAM'S 4|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

CAD DEPARTMENT
FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

Making the most efficient cutting marker

Development and alteration of patterns

Development of size set pattern by grading

Digitizing the pattern

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.

Graded measurement spec sheet.

Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form ( open roll or folded form),

roll size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.

Then the work starts with the following process flow:-

Sample Approval

Receive order sheet from Sourcing Department

Cut Order Plan is Prepared

According to Cut Order plan marker is made

Development of CAD Pattern

Marker is sent to cutting department

SIYARAM'S 5|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

INPUT
Receive the details regarding to the pattern from sampling.
Receive fit details regarding to the pattern from sampling.
Receive PP details from sampling department that is sent by the Production Sourcing
Receive order sheet from PPD for marker making mass production of confirmed order.
Receive cut order plan from cutting department.

PROCESS
Digitize the patterns that are sent by sampling department.
Make marker of patterns provided by sampling and print plotter for the same and give it
to sampling department.
Grade the sizes according to size chart received from the HO.
Make the marker as efficient as possible according to the cut order plan given by the
cutting master
Sometimes they do make the pattern manually for one size and digitize that with the help
of digitizer board.
For checks, first they measure one block's width and length and feed to the software then
the marker is being made based on that dimension.

OUTPUT
Prepare marker according to cut order plan received by cutting department.
Plotter is printed and sent to cutting department.
Printed marker (plotter) is checked by cutting QC.

CAD system is developed to assist rather than restrict the creative process. This system performs
repetitive and time-consuming tasks, freeing designers to focus on the creative development
process. This approach is unique and much more productive than techniques used in traditional
systems and the increased speed dramatically shortens the product development cycle, which in
turn, increases profitability.
The C.A.D. software used in Siyaram's is Richpeace Garment cad software Version-5.2 (model
no.) and pattern plotter is also of Richpeace model no-RP-MJ/2180

This dept is being channelized by Mr. Prashant Mishra with the assistance and the surveillance of
pattern master Mr. Nimesh Parmer.

As per the survey, CAD is easier to use against the traditional practices of marker planning. It
simplifies, fastens and effectively improves the processes of pattern making, digitizing the
patterns, marker planning, alteration in patterns, grading etc. It results in greater productivity,
thus featuring itself as a lucrative offer to use rather than still relying on the traditional methods
making it affordable to install and implement too.

SIYARAM'S 6|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Here the CAD operators are well versed in pattern and marker development and have a fair
knowledge of styling effects in the apparels.CAD has played many vital roles in the production
unit. It reduces the dependence of people and initiates collaborative working between various
employees, supplier and HO is easier. It saves fabric, big time savior! It improves the first pass
quality product and reduces the throughput time for product assembly to a great extent.

The major functionality specification Richpeace Garment cad software are as follows:

Digitization and file importing

Easy geometry identification such as point, line, notch, orientation line, piece rotation
line for marker planning
Great measurement capabilities- darts, pleats, trace, cut, combine, shrink, stretch, flip,
rotate patterns, seam allowance definition, corners, corner insert
Easy removal or addition of patterns from present files, printing and redo and undo
functions and hotkeys shortcuts
Customizing features, automation, grading of patterns, manuals record, cost implication
and plotting facilities

Once the planning department sends the job card for C.A.D. department. The C.A.D. department
digitizes the sample pattern on digitizing machine and transfers these data on the computer from
where the estimation of the consumption of the fabric is done. Then the cut plan of the fabric is
made as per ratio. Then the marker plan for cutting the pieces of the fabrics is prepared and
ultimately the print out of that marker plan is taken out from the plotter machine and sent to the
cutting department for cutting. The markers developed by the Richpeace Garment cad software
gives up to 85 percent efficiency or even more in some markers. Each marker contains certain
annotation like:-

Size
Buyer
Grain Line
Piece name
Style

Three kinds of markers are made by the CAD department:

Main Fabric Marker: Made on the basis of the cut order plan for the main fabric. These
markers can be one-way and two-way as per the size ratio requirement.
Pocketing Material: This marker is made for the fabric lay used in the pocketing namely
pocket bags and jet pieces, etc. For the trousers. These markers can even be up to 10 way
markers, as generally all the pocketing of the complete order is made into one marker and
cut from one single lay. This is the general practice followed but is not necessarily must
do for pocketing.

SIYARAM'S 7|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Fusible: This third and the last kind off marker are made for cutting the fusing material
for the order. His marker is made similar to the pocketing marker, i.e. this marker is again
made as per the requirement of the complete order to avoid wastage of time in laying
again and again.

Benefits of using CAD:

Accurate patterns.
Accurate grading.
Tight and efficient markers.
Time savings.

Carrying out pattern engineering, Grading and Marker Planning manually is an incompetent and
cumbersome process. CAD helps in momentous time and labor savings by automating this
process.

CAD streamlines and improves efficiency of the product development team. This is done by
eliminating manual errors, building a knowledge base that can be used to create and re-create
patterns and markers and by enabling collaborative team working. Manual patterns at times get
used up, torn etc. And cannot be reused to create vaguely different styles.

CAD uses apparel specific intuitive and user-friendly tools to engineer patterns, grade the base
pattern to various other sizes and to tightly pack these patterns to form the most efficient
markers. Figuring out the optimal layout of patterns to form tight markers needs the application
of spatial visualization skills; this is best done on a computer monitor and not by going back and
forth on a table.

Hardware requirement:-
Digitizer board - Digitizer tablets are pressure-sensitive data input devices that allow
users to outline images with a device functioning just like a mouse. With a large active
area the user is able to digitize manually created images with great accuracy with the
ergonomic mouse. The notches, drill marks, etc. Are also easy to be marked on the
patterns with the aid of the digitizer. The digitized pattern can then be graded and
markers can further be developed using CAD.
Plotters - The Plotters are remarkably flexible, reliable, and easy to maneuver plotting
systems for the special purpose of computerized pattern making, grading and lay
planning. These machines bestow high quantity throughput and stable plotting accuracy.
Their high speed, ultra-width and easy maintenance make them the ideal choice for every
soft goods enterprise.

SIYARAM'S 8|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

SPREADING AND CUTTING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production

manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of

styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:

Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims

averages.

Measurement sheet

Design worksheet of the garment

Purchase order

Fabric requisition sheet

Marker planning- size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut.

SPREADING

CUTTING

TICKETING

PANEL CHECKING

SORTING

READY TO STITCH

SIYARAM'S 9|Page
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS

Solid cutting

SPREADING

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a

manner, which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components

acceptable for assembly. For this, first of all a thin white paper sheet is spread on the

cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during

cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on

this white sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

Spreading is done manually , two or three workers are involved in spreading and 3 weights are
being used and one clamp is being used to avoid wrinkles during spreading.

The length of the lay depends upon the size ratio and quantity of that particular work order
whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric.

The lay plan is being made by the cutting master according to size wise demand . Two different
work orders were being studied and their lay plan was based on size set. For example:-

In work order no. 12154 there were different quantity for different sizes and different colors as
well.

Color Size 1 Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Size 6 Size 7

code
36 38 40 42 44 46 48
1 3 19 33 32 16 2 1
2 3 26 45 47 23 5 2
3 1 23 39 32 18 2 1
4 2 17 28 30 11 4 1

So the lay plan made was

40/1-42/1:-2:85
38/1-44/1:-2:89
36/1:-1:29
48/1:-1:90

SIYARAM'S 10 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

According to this spreading was started and the first lay was laid of size 38 and 44 because it has
the highest ratio i.e. 2:89.

The number of plies in the lay was decided according to the order quantity of size 38 i.e. 19 plies
were laid of color 1, 26 of color 2, 23 of color and 17 of color 4.As it was set 38/1 and 44/1 it
means that one piece of each size has to be cut out from one ply.

So total 85 plies were laid and order quantity of size 38 was being met and 17 extra pieces were
produced for size 44 which was not an issue because it was an in house order and this can be
easily managed.

So accordingly they would go for other combinations with ratio 2:85 and plies would be laid
according to size 40.

And then separate spreading was done for size 36 and 48 and 9 plies were laid for 36 and 5 plies
were laid for 48.

The width of the fabric was 58 inches and the spreading mode was nap one way.

CUTTING

The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines.

The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the

marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are

also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band

knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as

it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

BLOCK CUTTING

Stripes and checks due to requirements of matching so their spreading is done very precisely.

Often structures like stripes and checks are spread and cut in single number for accuracy. In this

the marker is made giving spaces between components to give allowance of fabric which goes

for recutting further in which the parts are aligned in to get the mitering done properly. Cutting

of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved is also more due

to cutting in two stages.

SIYARAM'S 11 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

SORTING AND TICKETING

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one

garment size is bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two

different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-

bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of

marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The

worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the

cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important

means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end.

CUT PANEL CHECKING

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual

piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size,

incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not

within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component

checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are

sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed

with the same number as the rejected ones. Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration

sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.

BUNDLING

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled. The size of

bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of

the same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the

production department when asked for.

SIYARAM'S 12 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

SORTING

When the lay was being made the details of the size, style, color wise ply ratio, bundles of cut

panels, lay number are being registered manually by a particular worker. One small panel of

fabric is being tagged with the bundle which is being sorted to make it ready for stitching which

involves work order no., sleeve description, size, lay no., bundle no., no. of pieces in that

particular bundle.

EMBROIDERY

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for

embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up

these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which are recut after

receiving back. They mark the region of embroidery with the pattern made up of cardboard and

that whole region is framed by the worker inside the framing board and then that framing board

is tucked in the machine and the embroidery is being done.

FUSING

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated

from the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the

components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between

two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the

temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.

The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re

bundled.

Length of table- 6.5 meter

Width of table- 1.74 meter

Height of table- 0.90 meter

SIYARAM'S 13 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Table top type - wooden

Spreading mode face one way, nap one way

Fabric package type- roll and plastic

Light per square meter - 2

Fans per square meter - 2

List of machines:-

S.NO. MACHINE MAKE MODEL NO. OF MCS

1. Straight knife Eastman 629X 10
2. Band knife Eastman EC-700N 2
3. End cutter Eastman EC-3 10
4. Stickering machine Glitz 2253 12
5. Fusing machine Macpi,Has 900/600 6
hima,Aura
6. Placket cutting machine Ngai shing NS-94 3
7. Die cutting Ngai shing NS-860-25 2
8. Cad Richpeace Version 5.2 2
9. Plotter Richpeace RP-MJ/2180 1
10. Pattern plotter Richpeace RP-MJ /2180 1
11, Embroider(6 head) Barudan, BEXY-Y906 3
Damei

SIYARAM'S 14 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

STITCHING DEPARTMENT

READY FOR STITCH BUNDLES

TRIMS ISSUE

CAPACITY PLANNING

STYLE DETAILS GIVEN TO SUPERVISORS

BUNDLES ARE FEED INTO LINE

PRESSING

STITCHING

SIYARAM'S 15 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

The dominant process in garment industry is sewing, still the best way of achieving strength and
flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the
application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of
satisfactorily sewn seams.

The objectives of sewing are the construction of seams, which combine the required standards of
appearance and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.

The sewing floor of Siyaram's silk mills is basically divided into two floors(shirt and
trouser).There are 5 lines for shirt stitching and 2 lines for trouser stitching.. All the bundles are
ticketed. Once the entries of the respective bundles are made the bundles are moved in the line.

Each line has supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line themselves.
The production of the lines individually is the responsibility of these supervisors. They have the
power to change the line layouts, announce overtimes for their lines in case of less production,
manage their operators, grant them leave of cancel their leave, input new machine or remove any
machine from the, etc. Hence, they are answerable to the higher authorities for the sole
production of their respective lines.

INPUT
Receive order sheet and all related details from planning about the order.
Receive line plan from PPC department.
Receive cut pieces in the form of bundles from the cutting department.
Receive trims from store.
Cut pieces are feed into the line

PROCESS
Run sample piece in line.
A sheet is being prepared which includes swatches of samples, thread number, remarks
etc.
This sheet is given to the line supervisors
Sample is being prepared in line.
Sample piece in line is reviewed.
A meeting is planned for new style.
Trims requisition is given to the store.
Loading of received cut pieces is done in line.
Operation Breakdown is made and analyzed.
Machine layout and man power is analyzed.

SIYARAM'S 16 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Each line has 1 or sometimes 2 supervisors monitoring the production and trying to balance the
line themselves. The production of the lines is the individual responsibility of these supervisors.

Each supervisor has the power to Change the line layouts

Announce overtimes for their lines in case of less production Manage their operators
Grant/cancel their leave
Installing new machines or removing any machine from the line etc. H
Hence, they are answerable to the higher authorities for the sole production of their
respective lines.
Organizing regular meetings for analyzing production planning, targets and batch wise
efficiency.
Communicating with the cutting manager and ensure cut panels for sampling and bulk
cutting is arranged.
Organizing daily production meeting with the production in charge and supervisor with
production records of all the lines.

OUTPUT

To meet production targets along with required quality standards.

Give stitched garment to Finishing department

SHIRT STITCHING

Shirt stitching was divided into five lines (A+B+C, D , E ,F ,G). Bundle system is followed in
Siyaram's silk mills for stitching. The shirts are being manufactured for two brands Oxemberg
and J.Hampstead . The different variations which are being manufactured here are:-

A+B+C - JH/REG , JH/SLIM FIT

D - JH/REG ,OXM/REG ,JH/SLIM FIT

E - OXM/REG ,OXM SLIM FIT , CLUBWEAR

F - BEACH PEBBLE ,CLUBWEAR , OXM/REG.AMITY GIRLS

G - JH SPORT , BEACH PEBBLE

SIYARAM'S 17 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

OPERATIONS INVOLVED
There are approx 30-33 operations involved in shirt stitching depending upon the style variation
The operations involved in stitching a formal J.Hampstead shirts are:-

Button patti making :- In this operation button placket is being made .This operation is
carried out with a folder attached in a SNLS.

pocket bone making:- in this operation the v shaped stitch is made on the lower end of
the pocket.

pocket attaching:- in this operations pocket is being attached to the front panel . Dots are
marked in the area where it has to be attached with the help of a pattern.it is carried out
with the help of SNLS.

main label attach:- in this operation main label of brand is being attached to the panel
with the help of a SNLS.

back shoulder attach:- in this operation yoke is attached to the back panel , back panel
is sandwiched between the two layers of yoke with the help of a folder attached with
SNLS.

back front attach:- in this operation shoulders of back panel and front panel are attached
by French seam with the help of a SNLS.

sleeve attach:- in this operation sleeve is being attached to the main basic panels with the
help of a folder attached to a double needle lock stitch.

sleeve dab:- In this operation top stitch is done on the armhole area with the help of a
SNLS.

side stitch with fusing:- in this operation side seam is stitched and a fusing in also
inserted with the help of folder attached in feed of arm (FOA).

cuff hem:- in this operation cuff is being hem with edge finishing seam ,it is folded and
then stitched with the help of a SNLS.

cuff making:- in this operation two panels upper and lower panels of ba cuff are joined
and stitched with the help of a SNLS.

cuff dab:-In this operation top stitch is done on the cuff with the help of a SNLS.

SIYARAM'S 18 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

cuff attach:- in this operation cuff is attached to the sleeve with the help of a SNLS.

collar making:-In this operation the two panel of collar are joined with the help of a
SNLS.

collar band hem:- in this operation the lower part i.e the stand of the collar is being hem
with the help of a SNLS.

collar top band joint:- in this operation two panels of band are joined with the help of a
SNLS.

collar attach:- in this operation band and collar are joined with the help of a SNLS.

bottom hem:-in this operation bottom of the shirt is being hem with the help of a SNLS
depending upon the style variation.

placket patti making:- in this operation placket (button hole placket) is being prepared
with the help of SNLS.

collar band Maya cutting:- in this operation extra fabric of collar band is cut with the
help of a over lock machine.

ready collar Maya cutting:- in this operation , extra part left after attaching the band
with collar is cut with the help of a over lock machine.

sleeve patti piping making:-in this operation piping is done on sleeve placket with the
help of a folder attached to a SNLS.

sleeve kaj patti finish:- in this operation sleeve placket is attached to the sleeve with the
help of a SNLS.

collar bone taki:-in this operation a plastic piece is stitched to the collar bone (a T-
shaped fabric piece) with the help of a SNLS.

collar bone attach:-in this operation collar bone is attached to the collar with the help of
a SNLS.

collar dab:-in this operation top stitch is being done on the collar with the help of a
SNLS.

SIYARAM'S 19 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

French placket patti taki:-in this operation two stitches are done on the French placket
at upper and lower part with the help of a SNLS.

collar neck stitch:- in this operation collar band with collar is attached to the neckline
with the help of a SNLS.

MACHINE DETAILS:-

S.NO. MACHINE NAME MAKE MODEL NO. NO OF

M/C
1 S/N LOCK STITCH JUKI 8700 160
2 D/N LOCK STITCH JUKI LH3568A-7 7
3 EDGE CUTTER JUKI DLM5400N-7 5
4 OVER LOCK 5 THREAD JUKI/PEGASUS MO6716S/8M52 7
5 OVER LOCK 4 THREAD JUKI/PEGASUS MO6716S/8M52 4
6 OVER LOCK 3 THREAD JUKI/PEGASUS MO6716S/8M52 3
7 CHAIN STITCH DOUBLE JUKI MH380 7
NEEDLE
8 CHAIN STITCH SINGLE JUKI MH481 6
NEEDLE

9 FEED OF ARM WITH PULLER JUKI MS-1190M 5

10 SADDLE STITCH JUKI JK-T388 2
11 ZIG ZAG MACHINE JUKI LZ2280N 2
12 MODSU MODSU MS-1100M 5
13 ARMHOLE PRESS NGAISHING NS8401 8
14 SLEEVE PLACKET PRESS NGAISHING NS5503 2
15 POCKET CREASING NGAISHING NS9084S-ND 4
16 DIGITAL PULLER LOVIA US-100V 14
17 THREAD TRIMMING UNISUM/SWAN MJ-3300 28
MACHINE TEX

18 PATTERN FORMER LOVIA MJ-7300 5

19 PATTERN CUTTER MYUNG JIN S.M ASF-BO1 1
20 BUTTON HOLE JUKI LK1903ASS 4
21 FUSING M/C MACPI/HASHIM 900/600 2
A
22 BARTECK JUKI/DURKOPP LK1900A 7

SIYARAM'S 20 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

MANPOWER DETAILS :-

Line A+B+C D E F G

Workers 84 32 27 29 28

Quality 4 11 1 1 2
checkers
Supervisors 6 2 1 1 3

Checkers 10 4 1 2 4

Helpers 32 11 9 8 9

TROUSER STITCHING

There are two lines for trouser stitching and in each line three lines are there, one for front panel,
one for back panel and one for assembly. The operations involved in trouser stitching are:-

OPERATIONS INVOLVED

Front small parts O/L :-in this all the small parts used in stitching front panel are over
locked .e.g.-jet piece , pocket bag , fly , flap etc. This operation is being carried on 3
thread over lock.

Fock O/L:- In this operation fock is being over locked with the help of a 3 thread over
lock.

left and right front pocket jati attach:-In this operation jet piece is being attached to the
pocket bag of both the sides with the help of a SNLS.

left and right pocket thaila making:-in this process the two panels of pocket bag are
being attached with the help of a SNLS.

left and right front pocket kachcha :- in this operation flap is being attached inside the
pocket with the help of a SNLS. in this operation a specified length is marked on the flap
and then slashed on the upper and lower part ,folded , turned and then stitched.

left and right front pocket over lock:- in this operation pocket bag is being over locked
by a 5 thread over lock machine

SIYARAM'S 21 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

left and right front pocket dab:-in this operation top stitch is being applied on the
pocket with the help of a SNLS.

left and right front pocket taki:- in this operation a small stitch(taki) is added on the
three places to make the pocket stick to the panel with the help of a SNLS.

front single fly attach @ left front panel:-in this operation fly is being stitched to the
left front panel with the help of a SNLS.

double fly zipper attach @ right panel front:-in this operation zipper is being attached
to the right panel of the front side with the help of a SNLS.

crotch attach zipper finish:-in this operation crotch of both the left and right panel is
joined and zipper is being finished with the help of a SNLS.

size label attach :- in this operation size label attached to the front panel of the trouser
with the help of SNLS.

front panel O/L:- in this operation side seam and inseam of front panel is being over
locked with the help of a 3 thread over lock.

back and small parts O/L:- in this operation small parts of back panel are over locked
with the help of a 3 thread over locked. Back panel generally don't have many small parts
,so they are often over locked in the trouser cutting department with the help of a
automatic serging machine.

back pocket jati attach:-in this operation jet piece is being attached to the back pocket
bag with the help of a automatic welting machine.

back dart making:- in this operation back dart is being stitched with the help of a
automatic machine.

back pocket chatka taki and bone finish : in this operation pocket is being finished ,
two stitches are tuck at the two ends of pocket and then turned upside either single lip or
double lip and got completed and then pressed to enhance its look.

back pocket O/L:- in this operation back pocket bag is over locked with the help of a 5
thread over lock.

SIYARAM'S 22 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

back pocket main label attach:-in this operation label is attached to the back pocket
with the help of SNLS.

D Barteck :- in this operation a D shaped Barteck is made on the back pocket with the
help of a Barteck machine.

belt extension making:-in this operation belt extension is made with the help of a pattern
and attached to the main waist band with the help of a SNLS.
Belt canvas stitch:-in this operation canvas fusing is stitched to the waist band with the
help of a SNLS.
gripper attach:- in this operation gripper is attached to the waist band with the help of a
SNLS.

loop making:- in this operation loop is being stitched .

loop attach :- in this operation loop is attached to the trouser's waist line with the help of
a SNLS. 8 loops are attached to a single trouser.

hook attach :- in this operation hook and eye is being attached to the waist band with the
help of a special machine (hook attaching).

wash care and athlete label:- in this operation these two label are being attached with
the help of a SNLS.

kaj making :- in this operation button hole is made on 4 places which include belt , fly
and two pocket with the help of a button hole machine.

belt extension finish and attach:- in this operation waist band (belt) is being attached to
the trouser and then the extended part is finished with the help of a SNLS.

double fly finish and fock attach:- fock is attached with the help of a SNLS.

watch pocket making:-in this operation watch pocket is being made with the help of a
SNLS.

watch pocket attach and finish:- in this operation watch pocket is being attached to the
waist band and finished with the help of a SNLS.

double fly kinari:-

SIYARAM'S 23 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

fly J stitch:- in this operation a J shape top stitch is made on the fly with the help of a
pattern and SNLS.

back rise:-in this operation the upper portion(hip area) are joined with the help of a
SNLS .

fly label:-in this operation label is attached to the fly with the help of a SNLS.

hanger loop attach:-in this operation hanger loop is attached to the trouser with the help
of a SNLS.

belt down stitch:-in this operation two parts of belt are being stitched with the help of a
SNLS.

Barteck:- in this operation Barteck is stitched on 24 places on the trouser with the help of
a Barteck machine.

button attach:- in this operation button is attached to trouser with the help of a buttoning
machine . 5 buttons are attached to a single trouser.

bottom O/L: in this operation bottom of a trouser is over locked with the help of a over
lock machine.

spot taki:- in this operation tuck is made on the trouser with the help of spot taki
machine. spot taki is made at 9 places on the trouser.

CHECKING

During these operations checking is done at four points and then pressing is done then again
checking and then packing is done. there are basically four type of checking is done in line ,
they are :-

front check point

back check point
assembly belt checking
End line check point

and then,

SIYARAM'S 24 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

finishing checking
final checking audit
final checking

FRONT CHECK POINT

This checking is done at the end of front line where the front panel is completed , the point
checked at this point are :-

alignment of panels

zipper

pattern for pocket opening

crotch alignment and finish (so that it would not create any problem during back rise and
j stitch

pocket bag stitch

all over lock applied

size label is attached correctly or not according to the Stickering (sticker that has been
stacked to the panel since cutting)

BACK CHECK POINT

This checking is done at the end of the back line , where the back panel is completely
stitched . The points checked at this point are :-

pairs of left and right are being matched according to Stickering and serial
number

back pocket is at same level on the both panel

crotch level and length

panel alignment and length

pocket are of same length and width or not

SIYARAM'S 25 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

back dart is stitched correctly or not

label is stitched correctly or not

pocket bag is stitched correctly or not

ASSEMBLY LINE CHECKING

This checking is done at the assembly pint where the front and back panels are joined ,
the point checked at this place are :-

loop (whether the number of loops are attached according to the size of trouser).

belt to belt (are hooks and eyes are placed correctly in left and right panels).

stitch

side seam stitch for further pressing

belt to belt at back for further stitching during back rise finish.

END LINE CHECK POINT

This checking is done at the end point , where the trouser is almost completed i.e. all the
sewing operations are done , the points checked during this checking are :-

back rise stitch

belt is straight or not

loop and pocket balancing

all labels are attached or not

logo is attached or not

trims are checked

waist is being measured according to size label.

SIYARAM'S 26 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

MACHINE DETAILS:-

S.NO. MACHINE TYPE NO. OF MACHINES

1. DART MACHINE 2
2. FACING M/C 1
3. OVERLOCK 5 THREAD 13
4. OVERLOCK 3 THREAD 6
5. AUTO POCKET WELTING 3
6. SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH 95
7. SINGLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH 6
8. DOUBLE NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH 4
9. SERGING MACHINE 2
10. SNAP BUTTON ATTACHING 2
11. EDGE CUTTER 3
12. HOOK & BAR 3
13. BLIND STITCH 3
14. LOOP MAKING 3

MANPOWER DETAILS:-

S.NO. DESIGNATION NUMBER OF PERSONS

1. LINE SUPERVISOR 5

2. WRITER 1

3. LINE QUALITY CHECKER 4

4. HELPER 52

5. CHECKER 14

6. TAILOR 103

7. TRAINEE TAILOR 13

8. QUALITY AUDITOR 1

SIYARAM'S 27 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIONS OF FINISHING ROOM

Finishing department is responsible for the following functions:

To final check the garment so that there is no defect left.

To enhance the look of the garment.

To alter the garment and remove stain, if required.

Final packaging of the garment according to size.

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly the merchandiser sends the following details to the finishing room:

Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the trims details.

Packaging and folding details.

Then the work starts with the following process flow:-

SIYARAM'S 28 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

SEWN GARMENTS
RECEIVED IN FINISHING
SECTION

INITIAL QUALITY CHECK

SPOT REMOVING IF THERES

ANY SPOT

THREAD SUCKING

IRONING OR PRESSING

INSPECTION

HANG TAG ATTACHING

FOLDING

POLY BAG PACKING

BOX PACKING

READY TO DISPATCH

SIYARAM'S 29 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

SHIRT FINISHING DEPARTMENT

OPERATIONS INVOLVED

The processes involved in shirt finishing are:-

Button stitch: - In his process button is attached to the shirts placket. Some casual styles
require washing, so in that case washing is done prior to button attaching. This operation
is done with the help of a button attaching machine.

Button hole:- In this process button holing is done on the other panel of shirt placket
with the help of a button holing machine.

Final checking:-In this process checking is done and loose and extra threads are cut and
if any defect is found then it is send for alteration.
Basically there are three types of defects found at this stage:-

Stain: - stains are altered with the help of a stain removing machine or with the
help of petrol and then dried.

Stitching defect: - it includes any type of defects due to improper stitching , like
skipped stitch , puckering , seam grinning etc. These defects are altered with the
help of SNLS (ripping and then restitching.)

Button defect: - These defects include defects in button tucking or defected or

wrong placement of buttons.

Auditing:- In this process output from thread cutting are checked once again by two
auditors. There are 35 tables for thread cutting and auditing is done on hourly basis(one
garment from each table.

Thread sucking:-In this process garment is feed into a machine for removal of thread
(which is left during thread cutting).

Pressing:-In this process garment is pressed. The types of pressing done are :-

Side seam pressing

Collar pressing:- in this process first collar is pressed and then molded.

SIYARAM'S 30 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Whole garment pressing:- In this process whole garment is pressed and then brand
label is attached to the button , and many more trims are attached and then
hanged on a hanger.

Folding:-In this process garments are pulled down from the hangers and folded
according to the pattern given to the people .

Checking:- After folding checking is done to ensure proper placement of tags and turns
in folds.

Sorting and tagging:- In this process sorting is done on size basis and then packed in
poly bags.

Box packaging:-In this process packed items are placed in boxes of their respective
brands and then put into trolley to move to dispatch unit.

MANPOWER DETAILS:-

S.NO OPERATORS NUMBER

1 BUTTON HOLE MACHINE OPERATORS 5
2 BUTTON MACHINE OPERATORS 6
3 HELPERS 27
4 CHECKERS 56
5 ALTERATION 5
6 PRESS MEN 13
7 SUPERVISOR 2
8 ASSISTANCE WRITER 2
9 ASSISTANCE PRESSMEN 6
10 STAIN REMOVERS 2
11 LINE QUALITY CONTROLLER 3
12 QUALITY AUDITOR 1
13 ASSISTANCE SUPERVISOR 4
14 SHIRT FOLDING 18
15 MARKING 4

SIYARAM'S 31 | P a g e
 APPAREL INTERNSHIP

MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

SIYARAM'S 32 | P a g e