2017

NIFT DELHI

TDS ASSIGNMNT

[FLOW OF WORK & RISK

ASSESMENT SHEET FOR
CHECKED SHIRT]
AUTHORS:

VISHAL KUMAR

ISHA GOYAL

AMOL KAKKAR

APOORV JAITLY
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 CONTENTS

Apparel Manufacturing - An Overview.................................................................................................. 5

Overview:........................................................................................................................................ 5
Pre-Production Processes in Garment Manufacturing ................................................................. 5
Production Process Flow for Woven Garment Manufacturing .................................................... 6
PROCESS FLOW CHART ........................................................................................................................... 9
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT ..........................................................................................................11
WORKING PROCEDURE .....................................................................................................................13
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL .............................................................................................15
Process Flow of Production Planning Department ...........................................................................16
WORKING PROCEDURE .....................................................................................................................17
sampling department........................................................................................................................19
Process Flow Chart of Sampling Department ...................................................................................20
Introduction ......................................................................................................................................21
Process Of Sampling Department .....................................................................................................21
Types of Samples ..............................................................................................................................25
Fabric ware house.................................................................................................................................25
Functions of Fabric Store ..................................................................................................................27
Common fabric defects:....................................................................................................................29
Weaving defects ...............................................................................................................................29
Dyeing/printing/finishing defects ...................................................................................................30
trims and accessories store...................................................................................................................32
process fllow of trims store ..............................................................................................................33
Introduction ......................................................................................................................................34
Trims inspection ...................................................................................................................................35
cutting department...............................................................................................................................36
process flow of cutting department .................................................................................................37
Functions:..........................................................................................................................................38
finishing department ............................................................................................................................41
Process Flow Chart of Finishing Department....................................................................................42
Introduction ......................................................................................................................................43
THREAD CUTTING..................................................................................................................................43
PACKAGING OF THE GARMENT.............................................................................................................47
GARMENT PACKING ..........................................................................................................................49
QUALITY MANAGEMENT PROCEDURE..............................................................................................51
RISK ASSESSMENT SHEET YARN DYED CHECKERED SHIRT .................................................................55

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 WHAT TO CHECK FOR?......................................................................................................................55
FABRIC TESTS ........................................................................................................................................55
Tests that can be done on site (in the factory) .................................................................................55
CONSTRUCTION TESTS......................................................................................................................56
PERFORMANCE TESTS.......................................................................................................................58
STRENGTH TESTS...............................................................................................................................58
COLOR FASTNESS TESTS....................................................................................................................60
Flame resistance ...............................................................................................................................63
Crocking resistance ...........................................................................................................................63
Ultra-violet light resistance...............................................................................................................63
Physical properties............................................................................................................................63
Abrasion ........................................................................................................................................64
EPI / PPI, Count .................................................................................................................................65
Tearing strength................................................................................................................................65
Tensile Strength ................................................................................................................................66
FABRIC DEFECTS TO LOOK OUT FOR.....................................................................................................68
TRIMS & ACCESSORY RISK ASSESSMENT ..............................................................................................70
THREADS ...........................................................................................................................................70
What are the factors that affect functions of a sewing thread? ......................................................70
What is 'Sewability'? .........................................................................................................................71
Requirements of good quality sewing thread ..................................................................................71
TESTING ON SEWING THREADS: .......................................................................................................72
PHYSICAL TESTS:....................................................................................................................................72
THICKNESS GAUGE METHOD: ...........................................................................................................73
BOILING WATER SHRINKAGE: .......................................................................................................74
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES:....................................................................................................................76
BUTTONS...............................................................................................................................................78
BUTTON TESTING ..............................................................................................................................78
QUALITY CHECKING...........................................................................................................................78
FUSING ..................................................................................................................................................79
Quality Control in Fusing...................................................................................................................79

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 APPAREL MANUFACTURING - AN OVERVIEW

Overview:

Apparel production, also known as garment production is a process where fabric is being
converted into garments. The term apparel production is basically used when garments are
manufactured in a factory. Traditionally apparel manufacturing factories has been divided
into two sectors as domestic and export.

A factory produces bulk quantity of garments for a style or design at a time. Prior to start
production of an order factory needs to gone through some activities which is known as pre-
production. Pre-production process includes sampling, costing, production planning,
sourcing of raw material and production pattern making. Fabric cutting, printing,
embroidery, sewing, thread trimming, washing, ironing, folding and packing are the
production functions.

Pre-Production Processes in Garment Manufacturing

The processes that are done prior to start of bulk garment production are known as pre-production
process. From sample development, approvals, research and development work for orders, testing
of raw material to pre-production meeting are pre-production process. Pre-production processes are
very important for the efficient production. A typical garment export house generally has following
pre-production processes:

Meeting with buyers in this stage designer of a manufacturing house shows their creations, latest
designs to buyers. On other hand if buyer already had fixed design of a style and need few changes
on it related to fit, fabrics or trims they discuss those thing with the merchandiser of the
manufacturing unit.

Development of initial samples for the buyer- In this stage after receiving buyers concept
or instructions on the new style, samples are made with available fabrics and trims

Development of fabric sample, bit loom, print and embroidery artwork- fabric is developed
as per the buyer requirement. Fabric development means sourcing of customer specific
fabric with matching properties, dyed and finished for solid colors. For the solid color lap dip
approval is very important process. Until lap dip sample is approved merchants re-submit
lap dips. In case of yarn dyed fabrics merchants develop fabric sample with specified design,
stripes or checks. These fabric samples called as Bit Loom. Other approvals such as print and
embroidery artwork approval and color approval are done. It may be done later stage at
time of pre-production.

Costing of garment (complete cost as well as manufacturing cost) merchants prepare cost
sheet with details cost break up such as raw material cost, manufacturing cost, overheads
and margin. Costing is very a critical stage. Because whether a company will get order or not
depends on their costing. If they garment cost is very high then manufacturer may lose the
order and on other hand if factory keep their cost low, they will not earn profit from the
order. Estimation of the garment cost should be done on data based.

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Pattern making, correction of pattern, pattern grading Pattern master prepares first fit
pattern, then re-develop pattern adding buyer comments and rectification on fit sample.
After fit approval pattern master grade pattern for size set samples only for specified sizes.
Once order is ready for production they grade pattern for whole size range.

Fit sample, size set sample making and approval from buyer- Each sample has certain
purpose. Samples are made in sampling department and sent to buyer for approvals.

Correction of fit samples according to buyer comments If sample is not approved or

further work is recommended by buyer. Correction is done and re-submitted to buyer.

Approval of fabric swatches, print colors, embroidery design, beadworks

Production planning, Material planning and line planning to start production on time and
ship the order on time planning is must. Planning is needed for material sourcing,
production capacity, line planning. Scheduling of jobs and responsibility is defined at this
stage.

Placing order for fabrics, trims, accessories and packing materials- Sourcing of raw
material.

Testing of fabrics and other raw materials physical properties are being tested for bulk
fabric. This test can be done in in-house testing labs.

Study of approved sample for operation break down, work content, critical operation and
line setting. Also finding best ways for producing the garment most efficiently in the
production stage.

Pre-production meeting once pre-production (PP) sample is approved (also called sealer
sample) and most of the trims are sourced, merchants or production planning department
conduct pre-production meeting with production team, quality team and sourcing team. All
important comments, procedures to be followed, dos and donts are discussed. Scheduling
of PCD (planned cut date) and shipment date is announced to all teams.

Production Process Flow for Woven Garment Manufacturing

If you are new to the garment manufacturing, you may find it difficult how garments are actually
made in a factory? After receiving of fabrics, raw materials are passed through various processes
before it is ready for shipment to the buyers. Some processes are necessary, where few processes
are done based on customer demand and style requirement. A detailed process flow is also
important for production planning and Time and action calendar making.

A single process flow does not fit for all orders. Like you may need printing or embroidery on the
product or you may not. Buyer may ask for washing garments prior to finishing. Sometime they may
not.

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In this article I am showing you a process flow that is commonly used for woven products
manufacturing. I prefer to show it in a flow chart instead of explaining the same with words.

In the below process flow chart, processes those are shown in main flow are necessary processes
like, spreading, cutting, sewing, checking, pressing etc. Processes those are shown side column are
done in case it is required.

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FLOW OF WORK IN GARMENT INDUSTRY

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PROCESS FLOW CHART

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MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

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Process flow of company

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 WORKING PROCEDURE

1. Buyer contact with style detail and price at which the garment is required.

2. CONSUMPTION:

The merchandiser takes the style to the master and in his consultation the
consumption of the fabric and trims is decided.

3. COSTING:

Merchandiser does the costing as follows:

Fabric cost: Fabric consumption x Fabric cost.

Trim cost: Trims item quantity x Trims cost.

Total material cost: Fabric cost + Trims cost.

Add 5% extra for finance and handling, add cut make pack charges.

Total FOB = Total material cost + 5 % for finance and handling + CMP charges.

4. LEAD TIME:

Lead time of 90 days is taken from the order confirmation.

The fabrics are all imported and so 60 days to be in housed.

30 days for fabric manufacturing and 30 days for shipment of fabric.

The production time is also kept in mind and delivery date is fixed by the buyer.

5. ORDER CONFIRMATION:

The FOB is quoted to the buyer along with the delivery date and if it is convenient for
the buyer the order is confirmed.

The quantity to be made and the color required are decided upon.

6. BILL OF MATERIAL:

The merchandiser prepares the purchase requisition or BOM for the order and the
purchase department orders for the materials within 48 hours of receiving the BOM.

The material may be from two sources:

a. Nominated Suppliers.

b. Non Nominated Supplier.

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 If the material are purchased from non-nominated suppliers it is necessary to go
through procedure like sample making and approval from merchandiser, price
quoting for fabric, final price decision and color and quantity decision.

Test requirement for the fabric and trims required by the buyer are mostly verified
by the suppliers itself.

7. SAMPLING:

Parallel after order confirmation the merchandiser handover the sampling section
for making the proto sample with substitute fabric and trims.

After its approval the PP samples (pre production) is made with the exact trims and
fabric.

8. PRODUCTION DETAIL:

Once the production begins the merchandiser follows up the garment manufacture
and communicates any changes required by the buyer to the factory.

After production and shipment of the order the merchandiser must communicate
the details like time of departure of the ship, reaching time and custom clearance
document to the buyer.

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PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL

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PROCESS FLOW OF PRODUCTION PLANNING DEPARTMENT

PLANNING DEPARTMENT

PLANNING BOARD

ORDER STATUS

FILE RELEASE TO FACTORY

PRODUCTION

SHIPMENT

PAYMENT

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 Introduction
Production planning and control department plans for a new style.

The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by
means of a master plan considering the following:

1. The production order.

2. Various styles and sizes.

3. The delivery date of the order.

4. The number of machine available for production.

5. Types of machine required.

6. Efficiency of the unit.

7. Storage capacity of the unit.

First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable
factory.

Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and
packing trims are in place and send to factory.

WORKING PROCEDURE
Receive the production order from head office and check the delivery date.

Check the fabric and trims status (whether in-house or not).

Sample study and pattern check take print and embroidery approval if any and
ensure ready patterns are made.

Check for any abnormality of fabric and trims and list the precautions to be taken
while cutting and sewing.

Communicate the urgency of the order and the precautionary measures to all
concerned through the pre-production meeting.

Issues a weekly cut plan to the cutting department considering 75% of GSD target.

Ensure that the cutting is as per the plan and the embroidered and printed parts are
completed and arrive to the unit in time.

The loading plan is prepared for production which decides the batches in which style
is to be loaded.

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 Finally garments are packed according to the buyer needs and send for shipment.

The plan for which the order goes to which factory is decided in the head office by
means of a master plan considering the following:

1. The production order.

2. Various styles and sizes.

3. The delivery date of the order.

4. The number of machine available for production.

5. Types of machine required.

6. Efficiency of the unit.

7. Storage capacity of the unit.

First the files prepared by merchants in the head office are sending to suitable
factory.

Planning department also checks if all the input such as fabric, sewing trims, and
packing trims are in place and send to factory.

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

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PROCESS FLOW CHART OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Technical Team

Receive Tech pack and sample from the merchant

File and sample study in order to simplify the style, the same will be discussed
with the buyer technician.

After study the file will be issued to pattern department with shrinkage analysis.

Pattern cross check with file/sample than programmed went to cutting.

Online Audit

Before Wash Checking (visual/spec)

After wash checking visual /spec and wash standard by concern merchant .

After sample evaluation/ passed required will be send to merchant after

external audit.

Sample offer to external technician with pattern file/counter sample and internal audit
report, sample passed handover to merchant.

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 INTRODUCTION
PURPOSE OF SAMPLING

Procurement of order.
Order confirmation.
Final look of the garment.
For knowing the critical areas.
For knowing the cost of production.
Operations required.
Machines required.
Work aids and attachment required.
No of workers required.
Accessories required.

PROCESS OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

1. PROCESS OF RECEIVING INDENT:

On receipt of indent long on to sample status report with following information:

Buyer name,
Style number,
PO number,
Description,
Fabrication information,
Size required,
Quantity required,
Style type,
Committed date based on type of sample and wash,
Washing, EMB, print details,
Technical manager responsibility,
Actual sent date.
G.I counter sample together with relevant comments as well as set of fabric, trims
and approved wash standard must be submitted from marketing.
Trims will be cross check against buyers PDM, fabric will be measured for sufficiency
against number of pieces requested.
For all wash programs the shrinkage will be tested from Technical department
marked 50*50 cm on the fabric, based on the recipe/wash standard provided by the
merchant and the same shall be forwarded to pattern department.

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 Sample exit date will be advised based on standard lead-time including pattern
corrections.
5 working days for non-wash,
6 working days for non-wash EMB and screen-print,
7 working days for non-wash and wrinkle free process,
9 working days for over dye program.
Indent along with previous/pinned sample will be passed to pattern department for
correction after technical manager and I.E evaluation.

2. PRE-SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS AND ACTIVITIES:

Technical manager will in tract with patter department for correct comments
incorporating.
Technical manager will check patterns before cutting activities and any inaccuracies
will be confirmed with pattern department.
Super-imposed pattern will be crossed checked with GIven comments by the buyer.
Fabric handling and matching parameters will be confirmed from marketing to
technical manager.
Fusing test and shrinkage is conducted on each fabric so accurate tolerance can be
added to the patterns. Fusing test report and iron shrinkage test will be tested
within in-house machine facility and the end result will be incorporated on the net
pattern.
For all non-wash programs iron shrinkage is performed.

3. CUTTING:

Sample indent enclosed with size information, quantity and fabric color with face
side approval will be provided to refer in prior to cutting.
Pre sample meeting with technical manager will be done in presence of cutters and
cutting in-charge.
Pre-sample meeting format will be filled by the technical manager with the required
details for cutting on cut direction, matching parameters.
Cutting can only be done after technical manager will explain to cutting in charge
about the style.
Style required EMB and screen print must be cut and sent for EMB and screen print
unit.
Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by cutting in
charge.

4. SAMPLE MAKING:

Pre sample meeting must be held from technical manager with sewing supervisor
before sewing activities can start.
Clear understanding of GIven information is confirmed in the indent file by sewing
supervisor.

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 Sample inline inspection will be audited by internal quality auditor on the semi
finished /assembled garment for construction/sewing quality in presence of sewing
supervisor.

5. INTERNAL QUALITY AUDIT PROCESS:

Internal quality auditors will join the pre sample meeting along with the technical
manager and sewing supervisor to ensure the points discussed are followed in the
line.
Inline inspection will be conducted to ensure the finished garments from the sewing
line are correct for construction and specified as per the pattern specification
provided.
Garments finished from sewing will be reviewed for initial sewing quality audit.
Before iron/pressing samples evaluation will be audited and recorded.
Finished garments will be passed on to finishing department for trimming extra
threads, removing the stains on the garments.
Garments will be passed to pressing section for ironing/pressing with instructions
from concerned technical manager.
For all wash programs before wash specification will be evaluated and sent for
pressing/ironing as per the required standard.
The pressed garments will be again evaluated against the buyer specifications.
Finally the finished garments will be packed and kept ready for buyer quality auditor
for review.
The finished sample shall be offered to buyer Q/A with the sample file, super
imposed patterns, garment review sheet along with the wash standard, recipe and
shrinkage information.
The reviewed sample will be packed enclosing the pinned sample/buyer sloper if
applicable, tracing, nested copy if required, sample evaluation chart and top review
sheet forwarded to concerned merchants.

6. FINISHING:

Finished garments will be taken for trimming extra threads and removing the stains
on the garments.
Pressing the garments will be done on the instruction provided by the technical
manager.
Kaja button, snaps, buttonhole etc will be processed on the garment by referring the
marks on the pattern for placement.
Buttoning, snaps will be as per the quality provided by the buyer technical pack
concerned the technical manager for quality and quantity requirements.

7. TECHNICAL MANAGERS ATTENDING PPM IN FACTORIES:

Technical manager will attend pre production meeting (PPM) in the factories
explaining the process involved while developing sample section.

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 Detailing about fabric nature and providing required information about the fabric,
advising the fabric lay procedure.
For all wash programs will explain the usage of shrinkage patterns based on the
shrinkage information available.
Discussing cutting parameters based on the buyer standard requirements and nature
of the fabric.
Advising interlining placement and fusing parameters required as per the standard
approved.
Trims usage on the garments will be advised for placement and usage after/before
wash.
Thread size/ticket information, needle size, SPI and placement will be explained
based on the buyers standard and nature of the fabric.
Explaining sewing seam allowance and discussing on special operation like feed off
arm, French seam and blind hem.
Explaining quality standards as per buyer standard.
Explaining about HOW TO MEASURE with the buyer manual available.
Explaining pressing/ironing standards based on buyer standards.

8. G.I SEWING TECH PACK PREPARATION:

Factory tech packs will be prepared with listing out the below mentioned activities
briefly.
Technical specification with the three dimension digitals of the sample will be
enclosed.
Cutting instruction with details of bundling information.
Quality audit diagram Giving details on checkpoint for quality audits.
Trims/accessory placement details.
Operation bulleting, listing out the various types of operation, thread quality, seam
allowance, SPI, needle size and comments to follow.
Parts and attachment specifications with the digital of machinery attachment listing
out the required operation for using this attachment.

9. G.I EMBROIDERY TECH PACK PREPARATION:

Technical specification for embroidery in detail with thread quality, color and
consumption will be enclosed.
Handling information will be provided.
Check list to confirm embroidery design.
Design drawing is enclosed.
Placement will be directly embossed on the patterns.

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 TYPES OF SAMPLES
1. PROTO SAMPLES:

Samples made with substitute fabric and trims.

2. FIT AND DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE:

Usually consist of certain change in the construction and design as per buyers needs.

3. PRE- PRODUCTION SAMPLE:

Three sample of a basic size are made with the exact fabric and trims.

4. SIZE SET SAMPLE:

Sample in various size required are made for approval in actual fabric and trims.

5. SALES MAN SAMPLE:

These samples are made with actual fabric and trims to judge the saleable value of
the order.

6. QUALITY REFERENCE:

Sample verified by the quality manager or a buyer QC to be used as a reference

during production.
Often the buyers ask for only proto samples approved and the pre- production
sample directly after which the bulk production begins.

FABRIC WARE HOUSE

Fabric store is controlled by the fabric manager who is responsible for all fabric in house by
time at the same width which merchandiser demands. There is one field supervisor who
looks after for all printing and dying operations. He is supposed to visit all suppliers for
timely and adequate delivery. The job responsibility of supervisor is to get target of checking
fabric achieved by checkers. Clerks are to keep all records regarding width, price, fabric in
house date, and demand note and day wise details of fabric.

Location system of storage is followed. Fabric packages are stored in two areas: (a)
Checked Fabric and (b) Unchecked Fabric.

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Fabric ware house in unit -9 is a centralized ware house. All units of Bombay rayon fashion
limited getting fabric from CWH.

They have Hugh capacity for fabric storage, around 40 lakh meter fabric.

Their total Storage area=60,000 sq. feet. They have handling capacity of around 16 lakh
meter fabric per day.

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 FUNCTIONS OF FABRIC STORE
The basic functions of the fabric store are:

Receive the fabric

Quality assessment
Issue fabric
Receive the fabric-
Fabric store get the p.o order information regarding to the incoming fabric from
merchandiser. During fabric reception they need following documents from supplier side-
1. supplier D.C - quantity
2. P.O copy-to verifies description. color
3. Transport copy

After verification regarding to quantity and description, these items are to be stored
separately in specified racks after entering these items in the Stage software and prepare
necessary Goods Receipt Note. Inform shortages / Excess quantity received to
Merchandiser Department concerned for necessary action. If the supply exceeds 105 % of
the order quantity, organize to return the excess quantity to the Supplier.

It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to store the fabric safely & correctly.

The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric stock in Fabric Stock ReGIster.

After verification they inform quality team .so further process carried out by quality
department before permanent storage of fabric.
Senior manager responsibilities -

Maintain Storage and Segregation of Fabric for production.

Maintain Storage of dead stock.
Maintain basic stock.
Co-ordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit department.
Coordination between the Suppliers, Fabric processing, audit and cutting
Department.
Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric and no
shortage.

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 Quality assessment-
After fabric reception, quality department start their work. First quality department
perform following tasks-
1. shrinkage report
2. Inspection
3. Shade group report

Shrinkage report-
The Fabric QA dept. supplies the fabric for shrinkage check. For shrinkage they goes
for 100% shrinkage checking. So, they send fabric bit from each roll. The fabric bit (1
bit) =60*60 cm. Then on that they mark 50*50 send it to washing dept. in washing
the real shrinkage measure. Shrinkage in charge prepares the report and submits to
QA manger. These reports goes to the sewing quality manger for shrinkage group
decision.

Sewing quality manager decides that which shrinkage roll comes in same shrinkage
group and each shrinkage group keep one pattern.

After receiving shrinkage group report they submit same report to paten master and
cutting department. Pattern master prepare the patterns according to these report
only .And issue to cutting department according to these report only.

1. Inspection-

The Fabric received are to be checked to find defects, shades and width variations
using 4 Point system by using the Fabric checking machine or Table. As far as
possible avoid use of Tables for checking. Display the various types of defects for
easy reference of the Checker. The acceptance criteria for various fabrics like Mill
made , Power Loom and Hand Loom vary and hence use the right criteria (
points ) as specified by Buyer / Fabric Department.

A minimum of 10 % of the Rolls (Random selection) are to be checked. If the defect

level exceeds the allowed limit, 100 % of the Rolls may be inspected after getting
approval from concerned. Display Fabric defect standards (clearly marked
Acceptable and Not Acceptable) and the criteria points per sq. yard / meters for
passing the rolls / bales as accepted or rejected.

In case, the Fabric rolls / bales gets rejected ( for reasons of defects, shade
variation, shrinkage variation more than allowed limits ) they hold the fabric until
they dont get approval from merchandiser .If merchandiser reject than they store
the fabric in the specified rack marked Rejected Items.

Follow the procedure, laid out for returning the rejected items to the Supplier. Raise
the Goods Inspection Note for the passed items as specified. Store the Fabric with
proper Identification Tag (containing details like P.O. No., date of receipt, Delivery
note no., quantity received, number of rolls / bales, Shade details , Type of Fabric,
Supplier details etc.).

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 Office records should record the Rack number, where the item is stored for easy
trace ability.Single item should be kept in single rack location and never mix up
fabrics of different O.C.s / P.O.s.

Prepare Report in specified format and send it to the concerned (like Fabric
Department, Marketing Department etc.). In case of deviation / short supply,
highlight it, to take necessary action.

Fault Size Point Assigned Sticker color

0 to 3 inches 1 Yellow

3 to 6 inches 2 Green

6 to 9 inches 3 Blue

9 & above 4 Red

Acceptance/rejection of fabric
Penalty points found per 100 meter Action

40 points in power loom fabric Accept the lot

30 points in mill-made and imported fabric Accept the lot

40 60 points in power-loom fabric Substandard lot

More than 30 points in mill-made & in imported fabric Rejection of lot

More than 60 points in power-loom fabric Rejection of lot

COMMON FABRIC DEFECTS :

WEAVING DEFECTS
Missing picks

End out

Mixed filling

Mixed ends

Dropped pick

Slubs

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Yarn distortion

Weft bar

Pattern fault

Dobby faults

Stop marks

Smash

Holes, etc.

DYEING/PRINTING/FINISHING DEFECTS
Bowing
Color Bleeding
Puckering
Stains
Skewed or biased
Selvedge variation
Scrimp etc.

Samples For Shade Band

Cut approximately 7 inches x 3 inches samples from each roll. Write the Roll no./
Bale no. in each sample along with O.C. No./ P.O. No., supplier, date of receipt ,
width etc. Mark grain direction.

Make shade band of the Rolls received and accepted. Similarly make 4 to 6 sets of
shade Bands for distribution as specified to Marketing and Factories.

Marketing department will take it up with the Fabric Manager / Buyers

Representative and provide the shade category (like shade A, shade B etc). Use Light
Box with specified Light for shade segregation.

If any center to selvedge shade variation problem occurs, such rolls are marked
separately and should be advised to the CAD and Cutting section for revised Pattern
Layout

2. Issue material to CCU or other units

After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this
chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is GIven.
After this the sub store in-charge receives the Fabric Width and Shade Report. Thus
according to the various shades, the fabrics are separated shade wise.

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 Then the merchandiser sends the Lab Test Report and Shrinkage Report. This
contains the results of the tests that are carried out in the unit lab.
Next the in-charge receives the Fabric Quality Inspection Summary. This contains the
inspection details of the fabric. This report also shows the status of the fabric.
The in-charge then receives the Mini Marker from the merchandiser. This is also
called the YY Sheet. This sheet contains the quantity of fabric required per garment
(yy = meters/garment).
Based on this the in-charge prepares a chart. This chart contains the fabric details
(Swatch, Color, Order Quantity and the quantity required). The in-charge calculates
the quantity of fabric required after adding the waste percentage.
2 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 3 % is added for the rejection of
garments. Hence, a total of 5 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total
quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.
This chart is sent to the merchandiser and the required quantity of the fabric is
ordered.

Storing and Issue to Factories

Based on the above information from Lab and Marketing, it is preferable to

segregate the Rolls / Bales in various Shades and Group Shrinkage percentage wise
and store them in the specified Racks with proper Identification Tag.

This procedure is useful to avoid mix-up of various shades and shrinkage bands. The
stores register should contain all the relevant details along with the Rack no, (where
it is stored).

While issuing to Production, issue as per shade band and shrinkage segregation wise.
Issue the Shade band along with the materials to Factories.

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TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES STORE

32 | P a g e
 PROCESS FLLOW OF TRIMS STORE

TRIMS RECEIVED

STORAGE OF INCOMING GOODS

PHYSICAL VERIFICATION OF
TRIMS

10% QUALITY AUDIT

100%INSPECTION IF AUDIT FAILS

STORAGE OF TRIMS IN
APPROPRIATE RACKS

ISSUE TO BATCHES

33 | P a g e
 INTRODUCTION
Function of the stores
Proper stocking of all the trims and accessories received and maintaining the inward
and outward register.
100% physical inspection.
Taking approval from the merchandiser of the trims received.
Follow up of the balance material required for particular style feature.
Dispatch the accessories required for production to the trims without delay.

Procedure:
All the Trims like, Zippers, Buttons, Snaps, various types of Labels, Threads, Tapes, Draw
cords, Elastics, D Rings are to be checked at the receiving point for Quantity & Quality.
This has to be done O.C. # / P.O. # wise and item wise.

o Allot area for Incoming Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. Incoming
goods to be stored here.
o Allot area for Inspected O.K. Goods and mark on the Rack concerned. All
inspected & accepted goods to be stored here.
o Allot area for Rejected goods (Inspection / Audit failed) to be stored here
and to be disposed off as per instructions.
o Allot area for Inspection and mark as Inspection Area. Provide Table with
White Laminate and light illumination of minimum 1200 lux.
o Allot area for Return to Supplier. In case of excess material receipt, the
excess material to be returned to supplier. Only 5 % excess material than
ordered should be accepted. The remaining to be returned to supplier. In
case, if excess material received free of cost, this should be accounted
separately as per instructions. )
o Display approved Trim Cards, AQL chart, Other Instructions etc in the Display
Board provided.
o All incoming Trims must be - 10 % (or AQL 2.5 or as specified) (Random
selection) - checked. If the items fail during Audit, 100 % of the items to be
audited. Results to be recorded in the concerned Formats and circulated to
the specified staff for necessary action.

34 | P a g e
TRIMS INSPECTION :
1. Quantity check: Compare the Receipt quantity with the Order quantity and ensure
that is O.K. If there is any deviation, please take it up with the concerned for
necessary action.
2. Visual check: Check the items for shade, color, Type, Style, write up etc., as per
Specification sheet. If required, wash the appropriate Trims as per specification to
see that shade variation, bleeding do not take place. In case of deviation, take it up
with the concerned for necessary action.
3. Measurement check: Check the items for measurement to ensure they confirm to
specification.
4. After ensuring that everything is O.K., make the Trim Card in specified sets and get
it approved by concerned merchandising Staff and issue it to the concerned.
5. Issue the materials to the Factory concerned as per O.C. / P.O. copy and as specified
along with Trim Card.

35 | P a g e
CUTTING DEPARTMENT

36 | P a g e
PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT

MARKER PLANNING

MARKER MAKING

MARKER CHECKING

FABRIC REQUISITION &

RECEIVAL

LAYING

QUALITY AUDIT

LAY RELAXATION

MANUAL MARKING

NAMING OF PANELS

CUTTING

QUALITY AUDIT

SOBAR NUMBERING

37 | P a g e
 FUNCTIONS :
To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining
according to the PO
Getting the markers made from the CAD
Checking the patterns with the actual patterns
Draw manual markers
Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan
Laying the fabric
Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with the cut
panels on the right time
Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels
Returning the remnant roll to the stores
Maintaining the records
Checking the quality of the cut panels

The work for cutting department starts right from the point of order confirmation. The CAD
department prepares the marker length using the pattern and the sample prepared by the
Sampling Department. It also makes estimation for the consumption of the fabric for that
particular order. The results then communicated to merchandiser. Once the order gets
confirmed for bulk production then first they cut the garment component for the pilot run.
Once it is over then the Cutting, The IED, Sewing, and Planning Department sits together to
decide the no. of pieces to be cut and supplied in advance, in accordance with the
productivity derived for that style from the pilot run.

The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures the fabric
then the fabric issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the specified marker
length and width. The number of piles depends upon the type of Fabric, its thickness,
cutting method and the desired height of lay. The no. of plies also depends on type of fabric
and weight. After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, alignment,
Uneven Tension, Narrow goods, and other fabric defects. Then the marker is spread on the
top of the lay. Stickers including all the details as PO no, cut no, style no, part name, part
number and sizes is affixed on the top of the lay of all individual parts. Before cutting the
last inspection of lay has been done to check that the marker is coming well in the lays
width and length so it can properly cut. Cutting room is one of the core areas in any
garment organization. As a unit cutting room has a greater effect on excessive
manufacturing cost than any other department concerned with the actual production of
garments.

38 | P a g e
SORTING AND BUNDLING:
The role of Sorting Department in the Factory is to coordinate and facilitate production in
the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put
on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are GIven one
number. Sorting Department is labor intensive since the work involves selection and
bundling requires human discretion. The process is bundling where all cut parts are made in
to bundles. If Fusing is required in some parts (as collar, Neckband, placket, and cuff) it takes
place before bundling but after Sorting.
OPERATING PROCEDURES
RELAXATION OF STRETCH FABRIC

Unwind fabric from Roll and lay on Table / Flat area in concentric folds. . The Lay should not
touch any other item and nothing should be kept on the lay which may prevent normal
relaxation. The idea is to see that, stretch occurred during the time of converting into
Roll form, returns to its normal condition. Generally the Rolls are wound in tight condition
to save volume & space.

1. Attach the Relaxation History Tag to each and every roll that is relaxed indicating
the O.C. / P.O. #, Type of Fabric, Length & width of roll, Date & starting time of
relation, Date and ending time of relaxation etc.
2. After allowing for 24 hour relaxation, the roll is ready for Laying & Spreading. Enter
the Actual Date and ending time of relaxation in the Tag.
3. Lay and spread the Fabric as per Lay Slip and specification.
4. Allow a minimum of 3 to 6 hours in the Spread condition as Lay Relaxation before
any other operation takes place.
5. Check for spreading quality. Perform the subsequent operations like Mark / lay
C.A.D. Marker etc., as usual.

SIZE SORTING

The cut components are sorted according to the size example: all s size is kept
together and may be bundled with rags or else may be directly taken to numbering
and then bundling.

NUMBERING

Numbering of all the component parts of the size is done starting from number one.
There are specific codes for each size like

S M L XL

1 234

Using a numbering machine which prints stickers with the number that is manually
set and then sticks on the component.
It has to be manually worked.

39 | P a g e
CHECKING

After numbering all parts except for those parts that have fussing are taken to the
checking table for inspection.
Here pieces are checked for weaving defects, stains etc.
Those small parts that are having fussing are by passed this process because it is easy
and less time consuming to re-cut the defective pieces.
If the defects are beyond correction then they are sent for re-cutting.

BUNDLING

The number components are bundled and then put into poly bags according to the
P.O and stored.
Color bundle tickets are used for respective size.
Color codification stickers are used for shrinkage percentage group on bundle ticket.

40 | P a g e
FINISHING DEPARTMENT

41 | P a g e
PROCESS FLOW CHART OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT

BATCH RECEIVING

COUNTER CHECKING

KAJA AND BAR TACK

BUTTON MARK AND SEW

TRIMMING

MEASUREMENT CHECK

TAGBRFLNG

POLY BAG CHECKING

CARTON PACKING

42 | P a g e
 INTRODUCTION
Finishing process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them appealing
through pressing. Garments are check according to quality system approved by a particular
buyer.AQL of 2.5 is followed for maximum buyers. Finishing is done to ensure that no
defected garments are packed.

PROCEDURE:
KAJA AND BUTTON SECTION
KAJA MARKING AND MAKING: This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially templates and pins
are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked position by the specialised
machine.

BUTTON MARKING AND ATTACHING: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine buttons
are attached at the marked positions.

BUTTON SHANK WRAPPING: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank wrapping
machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface.

BUTTON AND KAJA CHECKING: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where proper
button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found they are again
sent back for correction.

STICKER REMOVING: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are further sent
to the washing or the finishing department.

THREAD CUTTING
Extra thread coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation of
finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose
and uncut threads as soon as possible.

As soon as button was attached the garments pieces were brought to five tables
meant for the purpose of thread cutting. There were around 12 operators doing
this job using the clippers. An hourly production record was maintained for the
thread cutting workers.

SPOTTING

Stains which are not removed from the garments after washing also are removed by
spotting in this process. As soon as the quality checkers comes across a defect, he
brings the defective piece to the operators meant for the purpose of trouble shooting i.e.
alteration and satin removal section. This section comprises of the following personnel

Alteration tailors (eight in no.) for the correction of stitching defects

Spot washing gun operators (eight in no.) for removal of various
type of stains.
An hourly and daily record of the number of pieces altered is maintained. This

43 | P a g e
 helps in keeping a track on the quality of garments being sent to finishing by the
production floor. 20-30% is normally the alteration and stain removal rate.

INITIAL PRESSING

Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment visually alike
as per the required sample of the buyer.

The pieces were put into iron boxes after thread-cutting activity gets over. From
these boxes ironers who used to iron the seams only retrieved the pieces.

The ironing machines being used for this purpose were Steam Ironing Tables with
Vacuum Boards. These irons were of the make Ram sons Viet. There were two lines
of six irons each on both the floor. These ironers used to steam iron the following
seams:

o Sweep
o side seam
o sleeve hem
o or any other area they need to press for better checking
The whole idea of this seam ironing was to facilitate the quality checkers.
The ironing makes the seams visible. So, detection of any seam defects like broken
stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy.

An hourly production record of seam ironers was maintained.

Various Purposes of Pressing:

To smooth away the unwanted creases and crush marks

To crease the garment wherever required like in collars before top stitch
To mould the garment to the contour of the body
To prepare the garments for further sewing (under pressing)
To refinish the fabric after the manufacturing of the garment

Not nearly as much attention has been paid to the technology of pressing as to the
technology of sewing and cutting. Some interesting points are: The percentage of total
manufacturing work content in pressing is around 50%.The possibility of automation has
been explored for some steam presses, but most pressing operation requires the continual
intervention of human hand.

44 | P a g e
VISUAL CHECKING

Checking of all the garment is done according to required AQL. Each quality checker is
provided with two baskets (one for pass pieces and the other for defective pieces), stickers
for marking defects, thread clippers etc. each checker is instructed to check the garments
thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if
found. Every checker puts the pass piece in the plastic basket below the inspection table.
It is the responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction and
after correction put it in the pass pieces basket. The defects found at this stage could be
broadly of the following types

stitching defects
stains
weaving defects
button/buttonholing defects
Checker puts his allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by him. All
these checkers are GIven regular on-the-job training. Finishing in charge or supervisors
teach checkers the correct method of garment checking. There are two types of production
records that are maintained for these quality checkers. They are

a)hourly production record

b)daily production record

MEASUREMENTS CHECKING

After checking the garment visually, measurement of the garments is checked

according to the spec sheet with the acceptable tolerance.
FINAL PRESSING

Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the ironing
instructions, the supervisor GIves the instructions to the ironing operators about the
correct way of ironing the garments of a particular style.

It was very essential because a lot of times it is used to happen that the garments
were supposed to be packed with cuff turned but they were packed with flat cuffs.

The hanGIng trolleys from where the garments were retrieved for ironing and placed
after ironing were ergonomically designed, keeping in mind the ironing operators
movement.

An hourly production record of each ironer was maintained for the purpose of
keeping a track on the total production.
ATTACHING PRICE TAGS AND OTHER LABEL

The pass pieces are brought to the tagGIng section on the hanGIng wheeled
trolleys.

It was the responsibility of the packing supervisors to provide the tagGIng

operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags.

45 | P a g e
 The supervisor also instructs the tagGIng operator as to where and how the tag has
to be placed.

After passing through all the checking and pressing process price tag is attached to
the garment through tag gun.

The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing the tag was to match
the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket.

46 | P a g e
 PACKAGING OF THE GARMENT
After the attaching the price tag to the garment; garments are packed in the poly
bags or hanged in hanger as per the buyer requirements.

The packing instructions GIven by the buyers can be like type of polybag, any printing
on polybag required or not, garments to be hanger packed or not, method of folding
and packing the garments etc.

Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packaGIng plan. Each cartons
has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be increased nor be
decreased after its planned.

It is very important to check the packed garments for presentation. Checkers check
the packed garments for the following things

Poly bag is as per specification

Tags and price ticket should must be visible as per specification
Packing is secured or not
Poly bags should not be soiled and torn
Hangers are there or not if specified
Garment has been folded as per specification etc.
Once, checking is done they send the garments for the carton packing. The following things
were kept in mind during carton packing

Number of garments to be packed in one carton

Ratio asked for example M:L:XL=1:2:2
Decide on the plies and dimensions(as specified by the buyer) of
the cardboard to be used
Get the cartons tested for bursting strength
Packing the garments in the cartons as per specified
Closing the cartons with cellophane tape
Sealing the cartons with plastic cord
Writing on carton information like store or buyer name, buyer's
Address, ratio, net weight or gross weight of the carton etc.

Details about the style no., PO number, size etc are mentioned above the carton box .Bar
code slip is also sticked on the cartons. Each carton has its own identification over the bar
code slip.

RATIO PACKING
Garments are packed size-ratio wise. In this kind of packing all the sizes are packed together
in a GIven ratio.

Example:

Size S M L XL

47 | P a g e
 Ratio 10 20 20 10

LOCATION PACKING
In this kind of packaGIng, shipment is packed in parts as per the buyers
requirement.

This is also commonly used as shipment has to be send to different location. So an

order quantity of 1, 00,000 pieces can be shipped as 20,000 to New York, 65,000 to
U.K. and 15,000 to U.S.A.

SOLID SIZE PACKAGING:

In this packaGIng type, each carton contains one size as per buyers requirement.

COLOR WISE PACKING

In this type of packing, different sizes of same color are packed together in the GIven
ratio.

Example: If 60 garments are to be packed in a carton:

Color Blue

Ratio S M L XL

10 20 20 10

OPERATING PROCEDURE
The following procedures are to be followed in the Finishing section. These are to be
displayed on a Display Board kept at the Finishing section.

GARMENT RECEIPT:

The garments received for Finishing has to be recorded in appropriate Ledger,

mentioning the O.C. / P.O. #, Color & Shade, Size, Washed or Unwashed etc.
Compare with O.C. / P.O. copy and verify the Quantity and the product mix. In case
of variation in quantity, size mix takes necessary action.

JOB DESCRIPTION & STANDARDS

Process Flow charts are displayed. Any special instructions required are to be
displayed.

The Display board should have approved, Garment, Trim Cards, Fold / Packing
method, Fabric defect standards, wash standards, shade band, Defect % as
observed in Finishing section. Ironing standards are available at the section.

Standard requirements explained to all Ironers, like method of Ironing, Temperature,

Steam usage, etc

QUALITY CHECKS ON GARMENTS

48 | P a g e
All the Inspection and Checking area to be provide with a minimum of 1200 Lux light level.
Whenever the lighting level decreases, change the Tube light bulbs. The Table Tops to be of
White Laminated.

VISUAL CHECK
All the Garments to be checked for the Visual Defects related to stitching, Fabric,
Trims etc. Garments which are rejected are to be rectified.
Attach a Follow up card, which details the nature of defect and the remedial action
taken.
This will ensure that the Garment has been rectified and free from defect. Record to
be maintained for the % of garments sent for Alternation / Rectification.
Similarly maintain separate record for the % of garments that underwent Spot
washing.
Garments after Ironing are to be checked for right type of Folding, Packing, attaching
right type of Tags, Presentation, etc. Master Cartons to be checked for the right
information as specified. Place Checkers/Inspectors identification mark in the
garment at specified place.

MEASUREMENT CHECK
All the garments to undergo measurement checks at critical points at separate are.
Daily a minimum of 32 pieces to 10 % of garments to be checked for all the
measurements as per Measurement chart GIven by the Buyer by roaming Q.A.
Necessary corrective action to be taken for the non-conformances. Garments sent
for alternation / rectifications are to be tracked by a Follow up card and record to
be maintained for the Alteration %. Diagram mentioning how to measure are
displayed in the Audit areas.

MINI- Q.A. CENTER

The Mini- Q.A. Center: The Min-Q.A. Center should be provide with a minimum of
1200 Lux lighting level. Display copy Shade band, Fabric defect standards ( clearly
marked Acceptable and Not Acceptable ).
Measurement chart, How to measure chart, Sewing defect standards for Puckering
etc.
GARMENT PACKING

Packing standards duly signed by the Merchandiser / Buyers representative to be

present in the area.

Presentation inspections to be conducted before the garments are put into poly
bags. Price Tags, Bar code tags, and other such tags to be stored in separate Pigeon
hole self / box with dividers to avoid mix-up.

Garments to be sorted size wise before the tags / Price tickets are fixed on to them.
The first garment packed to be approving by Factory Manger / Q.A.

49 | P a g e
QUALITY AUDITS

INTERNAL FINISHED GOODS AUDIT: By Factory Auditor.

In small lots (say for example 200 garments) finished packed garments to be offered
for final audits with the size written as a packing slip.

Auditor must verify the size wise quantity and select at random samples for audit.

The Audit to be done for visual as well as for measurement.

The audit report is issued to the Factory management with comments and obtains
their signature.

In case of audit failure, this should be discussed with concerned for rectification and
for preventive measure.

The lot wise records of the entire audit done to be available for that particular O.C. /
P.O. with corrective actions taken if any.

FINAL AUDIT: By Corporate Q.A. Team.

Before the Lot is offered for Inspection by Buyers representative, the lot should be
offered for Audit to the Corporate Q.A. team and get approved.

They should check for size wise count accuracy, carton audit, visual checks of
garment & packing.

They should use slightly tighter sampling plan for audit. For example, if Buyer is
going to use AQL 4, the Corporate Audit team should use AQL 2.5 as their sampling
plan.

The Q.A should aware of the Buyers Tech.pak, Measurement charts, Packing
methods, comments on samples, PP comments, Internal audit reports, before start
their actual Audit.

In case, the lot gets rejected, Audit to be conducted after due re-screening /
rectification.

REVIEW REJECTIONS

Review of rejection to place with P.M./ F.M. / Q.A. for taking necessary corrective
action from time to time.

ORGANIZATION OF A Q.A. TEAM

The Q.A. Team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager.

The role and responsibility of each one is clearly defined.

50 | P a g e
 They are empowered with GIving stop advice to the production department, in case,
the Q.A. team observe too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost.

Production department then conducts a meeting along with Q.A. for necessary
corrective actions. Once the Q.A. is satisfied about the actions taken, regular
production commences.

All the Q.A.s are briefed with the Quality System in Fabric Warehouse, Cutting,
Sewing, Finishing, and Packing. Job rotation is followed for Q.As to ensure more
effectiveness.

QUALITY MANAGEMENT PROCEDURE

AQL INSPECTION

It is the responsibility of the Factory/ Site Manager to ensure that all stock being
dispatched from his/her site has been through a Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection
process.
A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection can take place either , prior to the storage in the
factories finished goods warehouse or prior to shipment to the distribution
warehouses
.A Pre-Shipment AQL Inspection cannot take place unless the audit team are in the
possession of the following-An approved/ signed product quality standard which at
minimum must be Contract Seal. the relevant product specification.
The batch size for each audit is very much determined by the stage where pre-
shipment AQL Inspection takes place; however, every effort must be made to ensure
that the batch size is no less than 50 selling units.
The Sara Lee Courtaulds Pre-Shipment Sampling Plan will determine the sample size
for each batch. It is essential that the sample is randomly selected from the batch.
The visual inspection of the garment in the sample must be against the garment
specifications and the signed standard and faults found must be based on the
General Auditing Criteria.
All garments rejected must first be classified as either carrying a major or a minor
fault/s and then recorded on a fully completed Production Unit Daily Pre-Shipment
Audit Sheet. Major fault is a fault that would make the product either un-sellable or
the customer would return it if noticed. Minor fault is a fault that may make the
product either or the customer would be dissatisfied if noticed.
When an audit has completed the failure levels must be checked against the AQL for
that sampling plan to determine the status of the audit If the audit is accepted, the
passed garments in the sample must be returned to the remaining stock and the
stock can then be released either into the finished goods storage area or for
shipment. Any rejected garment must be clearly identified and quarantined ready for
repair or seconding.

51 | P a g e
A REJECTED PRE-SHIPMENT AQL INSPECTION
If the audit is rejected, then the whole batch must be quarantined and 100%
inspected.
It is recommended that the pre-shipment audit team does not carry out 100%
inspection.
Following the 100% inspection all faults found must again be classified as either a
major or a minor and then recorded in the 100% audit section of the audit sheet.
When the above step has been completed, the rejected garments must be clearly
identified and quarantined ready for repair or seconding.
If the 100% inspection is not carried out by the pre-shipment audit team, then the
passed garments from 100% inspection must be verified by the same team and the
details of this re-audit must be recorded on the audit sheet as an additional audit.

THE PRODUCTION UNIT DAILY PRE-SHIPMENT AUDIT SHEET

At the introduction of the whole Pre-Shipment AQL inspection procedure each

individual factory or business must decide on its own series of fault codes.
The audit sheet allows for 25 different fault codes. These must be recorded on
master sheet and be used on all future audits.
The fault codes must be based on specific areas of manufacturing to identify trends
and areas of continuous improvement.
There must be one sheet per auditor per day regardless of how many different styles
a day and individual auditor audits and the audit date and the auditors name must
be completed on top of each sheet.
Data must be recorded in each individual column as follows:

JIT/Line No. The number of the team where the stock was produced.

Style This is the stroke number of the style audited. And must
include any relevant suffixes.

Color This is the color/colors of the garments included in the

audit. This is an optional column and does not have to be
used.

Batch Size The total number of individual selling units in the specific
audit.

Sample The total number of selling units inspected determined by

the sampling plan.

SAMPLE AUDIT

Major Faults The number of garments, which have fault/faults,

categorized as major from the inspection criteria.

Minor Faults The number of garments, which have fault/faults,

52 | P a g e
 categorized as minor from the inspection criteria.

A/R This is to indentify if the audit was accepted A or rejected

R.

100% AUDIT

Major Faults The total number of garments carrying major faults found
in both the audit and the 100% inspection of the remaining
stock.

Minor Faults The total number of garments carrying minor faults found
in both the audit and 100% inspection of the remaining
stock.

Fault Codes The total number of faults, by category found in both the
audit and 100% inspection.

53 | P a g e
RISK ASSESSMENT
SHEET YARN
DYED CHECKERED
SHIRT

54 | P a g e
 RISK ASSESSMENT SHEET YARN DYED
CHECKERED SHIRT
Yarn-dyed fabric woven by colourful yarns, has a variety of different patterns in the surface
for different layouts of coloured yarns. The yarn-dyed fabric is used widely in clothing and
decoration. With the improvement of life quality, people pay more attention to the clothing
aesthetic in daily life, thus the yarn-dyed fabric is favoured by many consumers for its
generous and solemn style. Compared with grey fabric, the weaving process of yarn-dyed
fabric is complex and the cost is generally higher. The existence of defects will seriously
damage its texture and pattern, which not only affects the beautiful appearance, but
reduces the profit sharply. Therefore, in order to improve the fabric quality, it is particularly
important to find defects in time and deal with them.

Yarn-dyed fabric is woven by warp and weft yarns after being dyed with certain rule, pattern
of which is mostly grid or strip, and has obvious periodicity with repeating units in the warp
and weft direction, respectively. The minimum repeating unit of pattern is regarded as a
pattern period of yarn-dyed fabric.

WHAT TO CHECK FOR?

Fabric Count
Fabric Composition
GSM
Color Fastness
Various Fabric Properties

FABRIC TESTS

TESTS THAT CAN BE DONE ON SITE (IN THE FACTORY)

Counting the number of stitching points per inch/cm for the main stitching
Checking the types of stitching, and the seam allowances
Measuring the fabric weight, for the main fabric
Comparing of colors (of fabrics, accessories, and stitching threads) with a TPX or TCX
Pantone book / lab dips / fabric swatches
Checking seam strength, by pulling in both sides with normal force
Checking the strength of stitches for all accessories (buttons, bows)
Checking the dry color fastness, by rubbing a piece of white tissue / cotton fabric

55 | P a g e
 For certain accessories such as fabric flowers: checking the frayability at edges
Doing a fitting test, to checking fitting but also to see overall outlook
Making sure the lining is never longer than the self fabric, and is not visible during
fitting tests
Making sure the products look good and have no wrinkles when presented on a
hanger
Making sure the products are as flat as possible in cartons and the foam parts (if
applicable) dont get crushed
Making sure there is no color shading on the same product, and no strong color
shading between different products
Taking very clear photos of the care & content label (composition, care instructions,
country of origin)
Checking the direction of threads (the grain line) of the main fabric, compared with
clients sample or clients pattern
Measuring the stretchability of fabrics and elastics, compared with clients sample or
specs
Counting the number of threads (i.e. the construction of the fabric)
Doing a shrinkage test, after normal cycle washing and natural drying
Checking color fastness to washing, by washing a sample with normal cycle together
with a piece of white cotton fabric

CONSTRUCTION TESTS

S. No. Test Parameters Testing Standards

1. Count (Linear Density) of yarn ISO 7211-5

ASTM D 1059
IS 3442

2. Crimp of yarn in fabric ISO 7211-3

ASTM D 3883
IS 3442

3. Yarn Twist (per Direction) ISO 17202

ISO 7211-4
ASTM D 1422
ASTM D 1423
IS 832

4. Identification of Filament/Staple Visual Assessment

5. Identification of Ring/Rotor Visual Assessment

56 | P a g e
6. Fabric Weight a) Mass per Unit Area
ISO 3801
ASTM 3776
IS 1964
b) Mass per Running Length
ISO 3801
ASTM 3776
IS 1964

7. Threads per Unit Length / ASTM D 3775

Woven Fabric Construction IS 1963
ISO 7211-2

8. Stitch Density / ASTM D 3887

Knitted Fabric Construction

9. Cover Factor alongwith fabric ATIRA Test Method

construction and yarn count

10. Fabric Width ISO 22198

ASTM D 3774
IS 1954

11. Fabric Thickness ASTM D 1777

ISO 5084

12. Whiteness Index ISO 105 JO2

AATCC 110
Comparison against Standard
Each Additional sample

13. Color Difference (Delta E Value) ISO 105 J01, J03

AATCC 173
Comparison against Standard
Each Additional sample

14. Moisture Content IS 199

15. Type of Weave -

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 PERFORMANCE TESTS

S. No. Test Parameters Testing Standards

1. Abrasion Resistance a) Martindale Abrasion

ISO 12947
BS EN ISO 12947
ASTM D 4966
IS 12673
b) Universal Wear Tester
i) Flexing and abrasion
ASTM D 3885

2. Pilling Resistance a) ICI Pilling Box

ISO 12945-1
BS EN ISO 12945-1
ASTM 3512
IS 10971
b) Martindale Pilling
ISO 12945-2
BS EN ISO 12945-2
ASTM D 4970

3. Wrinkle Recovery AATCC 128

ISO 9867

4. Crease Recovery AATCC 66

ISO 2313
IS 4681

5. Stiffness ASTM D 1388

STRENGTH TESTS

58 | P a g e
S. No. Test Parameters Testing Standards

1. Tensile Strength a) Strip Strength & Elongation

ISO 13934-1
BS EN ISO 13934-1
ASTM D 5035
IS 1969
b) Grab Strength
ISO 13934-2
BS EN ISO 13934-2
ASTM D 5034

2. Seam Performance ASTM D 434 (Fabric)

ASTM D 1683 (Garment
a) Seam Slippage
ISO 13936-1 & 2
BS EN 13936-1 & 2
b) Seam Strength
ISO 13935- 1 & 2
BS EN 13935-1 & 2

3. Tearing Strength a) Elmendorf Tear

ISO 13937-1
ASTM D 1424
b) Tongue Tear (Single/ Double)
ASTM D 2261
ISO 13937-2&4
c) Wing Rip
ISO 13937-3
d) Trapezoid Tear
ASTM D 5587/4533

4. Bonding Strength ASTM D 2724

AATCC 136

5. Bursting Strength a) Diaphragm burst

ASTM D 3786

59 | P a g e
 BS EN ISO 13938-1,
ISO 13938-1
IS 1966
b) Ball Burst
ASTM D 3787

6 Stretch and Recovery ASTMD 6614

ASTM D 3107
ASTM D 5278

COLOR FASTNESS TESTS

S. No. Test Parameters Testing Standards

1. Washing ISO 105 C10

BS EN ISO 105-C10
IS 687,3361,764, 765
IS 3417

2. Laundry ISO 105- C06 /C08

BS EN ISO 105-C06 /C08
AATCC 61 No. 1A-5A
IS 687,3361,764, 765
IS 13025

3. Perspiration ISO 105-E04, IS 971

4. Dry & Wet Crocking/Rubbing ISO 105-X12,

AATCC 8 & AATCC 165,
IS 766

5. Light a) Xenon Arc (Water Cooled)

ISO 105 B 02
BE EN ISO 105 B02
i) BWS 4 or below
ii) BWS 5

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 iii) BWS 6 or above
b) AATCC 16
i) 20 Fading Units or below
ii) Each Additional 10 fading Units

b) MBTL Method
i) Fading up to Grade 4
ii) Fading Up to Grade 5

6. Water ISO 105-E01

BS EN ISO E01
AATCC 107
IS 767

7. Sea Water ISO 105 E02

AATCC 106
IS 690

8. Chlorinated Water ISO 105 E03

BS EN ISO 105 E03
AATCC 162

9. Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01

AATCC 132
IS 4802

10. Hot pressing ISO 105-X11

AATCC 133
IS 689

11. Water Spotting ISO 105 E07

AATCC 104
IS 976

12. Acid Spotting ISO 105 E 05

AATCC 6
IS 968

13. Alkali Spotting ISO 105 E 06

AATCC 6
IS 977

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14. Bleaching a) Hypochlorite
ISO 105 N01
BS EN ISO 105 NO1
AATCC 188
IS 762
b) Peroxide
ISO 105 N02
BS EN 105 N02
AATCC 101
c) Oxidative Bleach
ISO 105 C09
BS EN ISO 105 C09
AATCC 190

15. Non Chlorine Bleach AATCC 172

Each Additional Wash

16. Solvent Spotting- Perchloroethylene AATCC 157

17. Scrubbing IS 11908

18. Sublimation IS 975

19. Mercerization 105-X04

IS 979
Each Additional Cycle

20. perspiration and Light a) ISO 105-B07

i) BW 4
ii) BW 5
AATCC 125
i) 20 Fading Unites or Below
ii ) Each Additional 10 Fading Units

21. Color fastness to artificial weathering ISO 105-B04

AATCC 111,169
IS 6152

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 FLAME RESISTANCE
Fabrics ability to resist burning

Note: Test is dictated by the intended end use for the fabric.

Vertical Flame Test:

Fabric is mounted in a vertical holder and exposed to an open flame for a specified amount
of time. Once the flame is removed, the after flame and char length of the test sample are
measured against various code standards to establish a classification.

Tunnel Test:

Fabric is clamped (unadhered method) or glued (adhered method) to a substrate, which is

placed on the ceiling of test chamber and ignited by a flame below. Fabric is then evaluated
for the density of the smoke formed, the amount of fuel contributed and the extent of the
flame spread. Rating is established based on these factors.

CROCKING RESISTANCE

Fabrics colorfastness and ability to retain color is various conditions

To measure for colorfastness to crocking, the fabric to be tested is rubbed with squares of
white cotton fabric (wet and dry) under controlled pressure for a specified number of times.
The amount of color transferred to the white test squares is matched to a control chart and
a rating is established.

Class 5 = no color transfer

Class 1 = high degree of color transfer

ULTRA-VIOLET LIGHT RESISTANCE

Fabrics resistance to fading when exposed to light

To measure for color fastness to light, the fabric to be tested is exposed under specific
conditions to a controlled light source which simulates the suns rays. At timed intervals, the
test swatch is compared to a gray scale and the degree of fading is rated.

Class 5 = no fading

Class 1 = high degree of fading

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

Fabrics resistance to pilling, seam slippage, and tearing

Brush Pill Test:

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Evaluates pilling, which occurs when loose fibers work to the surface after the fabric is
subjected to abrasion. Nylon bristles are used to rub the surface of the fabric for a specific
amount of time. The number of balls or pills that form on the surface of the fabric are
counted, and the fabric is rated accordingly.

Class 5 = no pilling

Class 1 = severe pilling

Breaking Strength Test:

Measures fabrics ability to resist tearing or breaking when subjected to tension.

Fabric is gripped by clamps at one end while weight is applied to pull it from the other end
(performed in both the warp and filling directions.) The number of pounds required to cause
the fabric to break or tear determines the rating.

50 lbs. minimum = upholstery

35 lbs. minimum = panel and vertical surface fabrics

Seam Slippage Test:

To evaluate condition of fabric when pulled apart at a sewn seam.

A seam is sewn in the fabric, which is then clamped at one end and pulled by weights at the
other end. (Performed in both warp and filling directions.) The weight is increased until
seam separates a specified distance. The number of pounds required to cause this
separation determines the rating.

25 lbs. minimum = upholstery

25 lbs. minimum = panel and vertical surface fabrics

ABRASION

Fabrics ability to withstand surface wear from rubbing

Wyzenbeek Test (modified):

Fabric is pulled taut and rubbed in both the warp and filling directions, using a piece of
cotton duck fabric as the abradant. The number of cycles, or double rubs, endured before
the fabric shows noticeable wear is counted and determines the fabrics abrasion rating.

15,000 = general contract upholstery

30,000 = heavy duty upholstery

Martindale Test:

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Fabric is mounted flat and rubbed in a figure eight-like motion using a piece of worsted wool
cloth as the abradant. The number of cycles endured before the fabric shows an
objectionable change in appearance is counted and determines the fabrics abrasion rating.

20,000 = general contract upholstery

40,000 = heavy duty upholstery

EPI / PPI, COUNT

It is a measure of thread density. The normal method used to determine thread density is to
use a pick glass.

EPI and PPI affects the compactness of the fabric. It is also known as thread count or cloth
count. Thread counts range from as low as 20 threads per inch as used in tobacco cloth to as
high as 350 threads per inch, found in type writer ribbon fabrics. Normally EPI and PPI of a
fabric are described as EPIPPI. Thus a fabric of 7466 means 74 EPI66 PPI.

To calculate EPI/PPI:

Step 1: Collect fabric swatch for which you are going to find EPI and PPI. Lay fabric sample
on a flat table and remove all creases by hand press. Mark arrows for warp and weft
direction if you know.

Step 2: Mark a square of 1 X 1 inches on the fabric using pen or pencil. Try to marks lines
parallel to warp and weft direction. Cut 5 squares from different place of the sample to
calculate average EPI and PPI.

Step 3: Count number of ends and Picks inside those squares.

TEARING STRENGTH

a. Single rip tear test / Tongue tear test:

Tail A is clamped in lower jaw and B in upper jaw.
Speed 50mm/min or 300mm/min.
The separation of jaws causes the tear to proceed through uncut part.
Averages of the five highest peaks are taken as tear strength.
Depending on the directing of testing, the tear strength of warp or weft yarns are
report

b. Double rip tear test:

The central one is gripped in one jaw and outer two is other jaw.
Two tears are simultaneously made so it is known as double rip.

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 TENSILE STRENGTH

Test to determine the breaking strength and elongation of most textile fabrics. Not
recommended for knit fabrics or fabrics with high stretch value. To determine tensile
strength of fabric two type of test are done. They are:

1. Strip Test (British Standard)

2. Grab Test (US standard)

I. Strip Test (British Standard):

Fig: Strip test

Sample Preparation:

5 samples for warp direction

5 samples for weft direction

First taken a sample of (60mmx300)mm and then frayed down to (50mmx300)mm

Test Procedure:

1. Sample is clamped in the jaws

2. CRE 500mm per minute loading

3. Gauge length 200mm

Test Result:

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 Mean breaking force

Mean elongation at break

II. Grab Test (US Style):

Fig: Grab strength test

Sampling Preparation:

Sample size: 100x1500mm

Jaw width 25mm

Gauge length- 75mm

Test Procedure:

1. Sample is clamped between the jaw

2. Speed is adjusted so then the sample is broken in 203 seconds.

Test Results:

Mean breaking force.

Mean elongation at break.

67 | P a g e
 FABRIC DEFECTS TO LOOK OUT FOR

1. Bad Selvedge

Causes: A defect in a fabric because of faulty weaving, warp ends being set too far apart for
the thickness of the yarn or in finished fabric, an appearance in which the underlying
structures is not connected to the degree required.

2. Burl Mark

Causes: When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven into the fabric, it is often removed by a
"burling tool." This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.

3. Drawbacks

Causes: Caused by excessive loom tension gradually applied by some abnormal restriction.
When the restriction is removed the excess slack is woven into the fabric. Usually the ends
are broken.

4. Dropped Pick

Causes: Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a shuttleless loom not holding the
filling yarn, causing the filling yarn to be woven without tension. The filling yarn appears as
"kinky." There will also be areas of "end out."

5. End Out

Causes: Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to run with missing end.

6. Jerk-in

Causes: Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into the fabric by the
shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.

7. Knots

Causes: Caused by tying spools of yarn together.

8. Mixed End (Yarn)

Causes: Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the wrap frame, resulting in a streak in the
fabric.

9. Mixed Filling

Causes: Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different fiber blend used in filling. Will
appear as a distinct shade change.

10. Open Reed

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Causes: Results from a bent reed wire causing wrap ends to be held apart, exposing the
filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use different colored yarns on wrap and
shuttle.

11. Slub

Causes: Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be
caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the
spinning process.

12. Smash

Causes: Caused by a number of ruptured wrap ends that have been repaired.

13. Soiled Filling or End

Causes: Dirty, oil looking spots on the wrap or filling yarns, or on package-dyed yarn.

14. Stop Mark

Causes: When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension; when loom starts
again' the slackness is woven into the fabric.

15. Thin Place

Causes: Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing to run until the
operator notices the problem.

16. Holes

Causes: Bad needle, take down mechanism too tight, high tension on yarn, bad yarn needle
too tight in their slots, dial height too low or too high, badly tied knots, improper stitch
setting.

17. Drop Stitches

Causes: Takedown mechanism too loose, defective needles, too loose yarn tension not
sufficient, wrong needle timing set, needle tricks closed.

18. Loop Distortion

Causes: Bad and bent needles, bent trick walls, uneven yarn tension, needle timing set
wrong, yarn carriers set wrong.

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 TRIMS & ACCESSORY RISK ASSESSMENT

THREADS

Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns that are engineered and designed to pass through
a sewing machine rapidly. They form efficient stitches without breaking or becoming
distorted during the useful life of the product. The basic function of a thread is to deliver
aesthetics and performance in stitches and seams.

WHAT ARE THE FACTORS THAT AFFECT FUNCTIONS OF A SEWING THREAD?

Factors affecting aesthetics

Colour, lustre and fineness / thickness should be considered while selecting a thread for
decorative purposes such as top stitching or embroidery.

Other considerations include:

Hue and shade matching

Colour fastness

Stitch selection

Uniformity of stitch formation

Factors affecting performance

Thread used in garments must be durable enough to withstand the abrasion and needle
heat that occur while sewing, garment finishing, stretching and recovery during wear.

Thread performance in garments can be evaluated from its

Seam strength

Abrasion resistance

Elasticity

Chemical resistance

Flammability

Colour fastness

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 WHAT IS 'SEWABILITY'?

'Sewability' of thread is a term used to describe a sewing threads performance. A thread

with good sewability is uniform in diameter with a good surface finish. Longitudinal
uniformity of thread contributes to uniform strength and reduced friction, as it passes
through the stitch forming mechanisms. It also minimises thread breakages and the
associated costs incurred from rethreading machines, repairing stitches and producing
inferior quality products.

Sewability parameters

The parameters that define the superior sewability of thread are:

No breakages in high-speed sewing

Consistent stitch formation

No skipped stitches

Evenness, to prevent changes in tension during sewing

A high level of abrasion resistance

Sufficient surface smoothness, to pass easily through the machine guides

REQUIREMENTS OF GOOD QUALITY SEWING THREAD

Good tensile strength holds the stitched seam securely during wash and wear.

Smooth surface and absence of faults ensures less friction between the needle and the
material during high-speed sewing. The thread must be well lubricated to increase its
sewability and resistance to abrasion.

Uniform thickness / diameter results in an even sewing thread, which moves smoothly and
quickly through the needle eye and the fabric. It also affects the threads tensile strength,
resistance to abrasion and its twist construction. An uneven thread may twist into short
knots and jam at the eye of the needle.

Good elasticity enables thread to recover its original length immediately after the tension
has been released. The elasticity of sewing thread affects the strength and the finished
quality of a stitched seam.

Good colour fastness provides immunity to the different agents the thread is exposed to
during manufacture and washing. The thread must hence be uniformly dyed.

Low shrinkage of the thread being used on the fabric material with higher shrinkage
reduces the chances of seam puckering.

Good resistanceto chemical attack is a desirable property for thread used in garments
which may undergo washing, bleaching or dry-cleaning.

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Good abrasion resistance ensures a good sewing performance and makes the thread more
durable.

The following figures show the results of thread-to-thread abrasion tests and give an
indication of their respective resistance to abrasion:

If Linen, Rayon Continuous Filament (CF) has resistance of 1, then:

Cotton = 3

Spun Silk = 4

Spun Polyester = 12

CF Polyester = 30

Spun Nylon = 40

CF Nylon = 150

Good colour fastness will retain the threads original colour without running or fading when
subjected to wash and light exposure. The thread colour should be resistant to different
agents to which it is exposed during manufacture and use.
Colour fastness can be measured against:

Chlorinated water

Perspiration

Cold water staining

Dry cleaning

Pressing - wet and dry

Bleaching

Minimal metamerism can be achieved by assessing colour with colour matching cabinets.
Metamerism is an inherent property of a thread when the same thread colour appears to be
different under different lighting conditions. Standard illuminants are often used to counter
the effects of metamerism.

TESTING ON SEWING THREADS:

In Generally the sewing threads are tested by 2 methods .These are:

PHYSICAL TESTS:

THREAD COUNT:

Count or number of sewing thread is in general measured by the ASTM test method

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designated D-1059 for short-length specimen and skein method (ASTM-1907) for long
specimen length.
The direct system of thread number is based on measuring the weight per unit length of a
yarn, where as the indirect system is based upon the length per unit weight of a thread.
In the short-length method, the specimens of prescribed length, usually 1m or less, are cut
from a conditioned sample, which is under prescribed tension, and weighed. For skein
method, the specified lengths of thread are wound on reels as skeins, and weighed. The
count or thread number is then computed from the mass and length of thread.

THREAD DIAMETER:

The diameter of sewing thread is an important parameter for effective sewability. It

must be appropriate to the size of the needle eye. If the thread diameter does not
match with the size of the needle eye, the thread may break during sewing
deteriorating the appearance of the seam. When the diameter of the thread is large
enough, it displaces the yarn in a fabric, resulting seam puckering. Generally the
width of the needle eye is about 40% of the size of the needle. Sewing thread must
not occupy more than 60% of the width of the eye to avoid the fraying of thread
during sewing.

Sewing thread diameter is also a consideration in selecting sewing thread for

embroidery, contrast stitching, or other decorative applications, since cover is
important with such threads. So, diameter of a sewing thread is an important
parameter to measure.

THICKNESS GAUGE METHOD:

A thickness gauge with standard pressure foot diameter (9.52+0.02mm) is used. The
pressure foot and other connected moving parts shall be weighted to apply a total force of
1.67+0.03N equivalent to a pressure of 23.4kPa

For measuring the diameter, the thread is to be drawn from the side of the holder without
disturbing the twist. Then four such strands of the thread are to be placed side by side on
the anvil and approximately mid-way between the sides of the pressure foot of the
thickness gauge.

Then, the thickness to the nearest 0.02mm is to be measured and to be recorded as the
diameter of the thread. The next reading is to be taken after removing at least 300mm of
thread from the holder and 10such readings to be taken along the length of the threads to
calculate the average diameter of the sewing thread.

OPTICAL METHOD:

In this method, a microscope, having a stage that can be rotated to bring the thread parallel
to the movable cross hair in the eyepiece, is used to measure the diameter of the threads.
The mounting plate, with clip or other means is used for holding the thread at a constant
tension sufficient to remove any slackness in the thread without stretching it.
73 | P a g e
Before measuring the diameter, the thread is drawn from the side of the holder without
disturbing the twist. Then the thread is to be mounted on the movable stage of the
microscope using the mounting plate and the stage is rotated until the thread is parallel ti
the movable cross hair. The diameter of the thread is measured to the nearest 0.02mm, as
the difference in the micrometer settings when the cross hair is moved from the one edge
of the thread to the other. The next reading is taken after removing atleast 300mm of
thread from the holder and 20 such readings to be taken along the length of the thread to
calculate the average diameter of the sewing thread.

SHRINKAGE:

Measurement of shrinkage of sewing thread is very important because it may cause

puckering along seams and thus adversely affect the seam appearance.

The following combinations may change the influence of sewing thread shrinkage on the
seam: the construction and mass of the seamed fabric, the nature of the seam assembly, or
the tension on the sewing thread during sewing.

Shrinkage testing of thread due to its Exposure to;

DRY HEAT SHRINKAGE:

After preheating the drying oven to 176+3oc, the specimen is suspended freely from a
stationary rack side the oven away from the side walls. After the oven returns to the original
temperature, the specimen is then exposed for 30+2min. Then the specimen is removed,
conditioned and the loop length is measured.

BOILING WATER SHRINKAGE:

The specimen is wrapped in cheese-cloth. The wrapped specimen is immersed in boiling

water and allowed to boil for 30+2min and then the cheese cloth along with the specimen is
removed from the bath. The excess water is squeezed out from the cheese cloth and the
specimen is then removed from the cheese cloth and dried in a drying oven at 65oc for 1hr
and conditioned. The loop length is then measured .

DETERMINATION OF RESIDUAL SHRINKAGE:

Apparatus:

Mounting Device-The device shall be such that a test specimen of at least 100cm length can
be mounted on it, with one of its ends in a fixed clamp under the desired dead weight
tension.

a. Exposed to a temperature of 150c or 180c

b. Immersed in water at 100c

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The shrinkage of each test sample is to be calculated using the following equation;

Shrinkage% = I1-I2 / I1 X 100

Where,
I1 = original length of the loop
I2 =length of loop after exposure

LENGTH PER PACKAGE:

Measurement of length per package is very important because the sewing thread is sold on
length basis. This test method is used to measure the total length of thread in a package.

The length of thread on a package is measured by winding the thread from the package to a
reel of known perimeter into skeins. The total length is measured by counting the number
of complete skeins of specified length, number of wraps in last partial and by measuring the
length of the last partial wrap.

Length of thread in the package=I1+I2+I3

Where in,
I1= number of whole skeins times length per skein,
I2= number of complete wraps in last partial skein times meters per wrap, and
I3= length of last partial wrap on the reel

TICKET NUMBERING SYETEM:

The ticket number is the number assigned to a sewing thread to designate its approximate
linear density, in other way it denotes the thread sizes. But there has always been lot of
confusion over the thread ticket number in one way or the other. Ticket number is
determined on the basis of finished thread.

Various finishing process like Scouring, Bleaching, Dyeing, Stretching, Mercerizing, Bonding,
Polishing, Lubricating significantly change the apparent thread size of the unfinished thread.
Type and number of finishing processes required for different types of threads vary from
one type of thread to another type of thread. That is one thread size or ticket number is
determined on unfinished thread. The count of the finished sewing thread does not depend
only on its single input yarn count and ply but also on amount and type of color/finishes
applied on it.

HAIRINESS:

The hairiness of sewing thread is an important property for its effective and efficient
performance during sewing. Too high hairiness of thread restricts its smooth run through

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the needle eye and other thread path of a sewing machine resulting in thread breakage,
high heat generation or many other defects in seam. Measurement of hairiness is important
for sewing thread made out of staple fibers. Hairiness is defined as the tendency for
component fibers to stand out from the surface of the yarn into the surrounding air.

Hairiness of yarn or thread is commonly measured optically in two different methods. In one
of the method the overall length of the hair present in unit length of yarn is measured. And
in another method the number of hair protruding above certain lengths are counted. The
hair are classified in a number of classes.

THREAD FRICTION:

Frictional property plays very important role for effective sewability of a sewing thread. A
controlled level of both static and kinetic friction is required; the frictional force should not
be too high, which could cause thread breakage, and not too low, which could cause
improper thread control and seam slippage.

In its simplest form as illustrated the yarn is merely hung over the rod, so that it becomes
radians. In that case the equation becomes:

Where,

= coefficient of friction,
1n = natural logarithm, to base e (2.718)
T1 = mean input tension
T2 = mean output tension, and
Q = wrap angle, 3.14radian

Lawson Hemphills Constant Tension Transport is an instrument which can be used for
testing of yarn to metal/ ceramic or yarn to yarn friction. The thread withdrawal at constant
tension is utilized here to measure the friction coefficient applying capstan method. With
the precisely controlled input tension, thread drag over the standard pins or on itself is
monitored with a tension meter in thread path to calculate coefficient of friction.

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES:

Testing of some important chemical properties are briefed here;

1. Color fastness to washing
2. Color fastness to dry cleaning
3. Color fastness to water migration
4. Color matching

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING:

Use of colored sewing thread is a very common practice. The colored sewing thread is used

76 | P a g e
either as per matching with the color of fabric or some with a contrasting color for some
special effects. If the color fastness of sewing thread to washing is not up to the mark, then
the sewing thread may spoil the garment by color bleeding. The alteration in shade and
staining by sewing thread under conditions similar to that experienced in domestic washing
of apparel and other textile end products is determined.

The thread, under test, is laundered in contact with a multifibre test cloth with the help of
home laundry and drying equipment. The laundering can be done with or without bleach,
depending on the conditions one tries to reproduce the effect of home laundering on
sewing thread. The change in shade of the sewing thread and the degree of staining of the
multifibre test cloth are graded with the help of standard Grey scale.

Three parallel lines are stitched on a 50mm square multifibre test fabric using thread from a
thread holder. The direction of stitch should be perpendicular to the strips and completely
across the multifibre fabric. The stitch density is normally kept at 8 stitches per inch and
stitch lines are placed approximately 10mm apart and the first line starts about 15mm from
the edge of test fabric.

COLOR FASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING:

Delicate stitched materials are normally dry cleaned. It is important that he sewing thread
should retain its color or does not stain the adjacent fabric during. Alteration in shade and of
staining by sewing thread dry cleaning is determined by this test method.

A 50mm square multifibre test fabric is stitched with a sewing thread in a similar way as
described earlier. Then the specimen is dry cleaned as per the procedure under test method
ASTM D2724. The alteration in shade of sewing thread and the degree of staining of the
multifibre test cloth after dry cleaning is then graded as per standard procedure.

COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER MIGRATION:

Color fastness to water migration of a sewing thread is very important so that color doesnt
create staining of the garment or any finished product through water migration. Level of
staining by a sewing thread under home care conditions similar to those experienced when
items are left in a wet condition for a specific period of time is measured by this test
method.

A 50mm square multifibre test fabric is sewn with three parallel lines of stitching space
10mm apart with the first line 15mm from the test fabric edge. Using the sewing thread to
be tested. Generally the stitch length is 8 stitches per inch. Then the standard
polyester/cotton terry cloth is cut with 50mm *150mm dimension.

The specimen and strips of terry cloth are then home laundered as per the standard method
mentioned in AATCC test method 143.

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The specimen is then rolled in the terry cloth strip and inserted into a test tube. The test
tube is then allowed to stand for 4hr at ambient temperature. After 4hr the specimen is
then removed from test tube and graded immediately for change in degree of staining.

COLOR MATCHING:

Matching of colors of a sewing thread and piece goods is very important where seams are to
be inconspicuous. Whether a thread can be matched to the color of particular piece goods
may depend on the dyeability of the fibers in the thread. Some fibers take certain colors
better than others, and some dyestuffs have better colors in certain hues.

Testing of color matching is generally done in two different ways viz visual matching and
computerized color matching. The success of visual color matching depends on the type of
light, nature of the surroundings, and the viewers ability to see color differences. Colors that
appear to match in one environment may not appear to match in another; thus ,
standardized conditions in terms of type of light, angle of viewing, and color of surroundings
must be used for reliable visual matching. So, while matching the color visually, it is very
important to mention the type of light and other conditions. Only an experienced person
with very good eye sight and without color blindness can perform the color matching test
visually.

Instrumental color measurements with a spectrophotometer and computerized shade

recipes are used for dyeing thread to common color standards for various fiber contents,
thread structures, and dye stuffs. These systems may also may create dye recipe
formulations for custom matching to particular piece goods although the apparel
manufacturer would probably be required to buy the entire lot.

BUTTONS

BUTTON TESTING

Durability of buttons can be tested by an impact test

Individual buttons are placed on a surface centred under a tube through which a pre-
selected mans falls from a pre-selected height
After the mans impact the button, the button is removed from the testing device and
visually examined using 5x magnified glass for breakage, cracking or chipping
This is for acceptance testing of buttons
They are classified as A, B1 through B3 depending upon the impact resistance, the class A
button being the most durable

QUALITY CHECKING

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 Buttons should have large, clean sew holes that are free from flash and will not cut the
thread
Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the button
Buttons should be of uniform thickness
Colour or shade should be within a certain visual tolerance.
They should withstand laundering, dry-cleaning and pressing without any changes such as
cracks, melting of surface (scorching), change in colour

FUSING

Fusing is an adhesive material with a variety of functions that you can use as an alternative
to sewing. The material is available in woven or non-woven sheets, shapes and strips. Fusing
often serves as alternative to sew-on interfacing, which strengthens, supports and adds
shape to fabric.

QUALITY CONTROL IN FUSING

To control the quality of fusing, selection of interlining and conditions of fusing are very
important. The factors affecting the quality of fusing are discussed below:

FUSING TEMPERATURE
Optimum fusing temperature is recommended by the interlining supplier. During fusing, if
this temperature is not maintained properly then the fusing performance may degrade.
Over temperature will produce strike through or strike back and under temperature will
produce insufficient bond strength. The fusing machine showing fusing temperature needs
to be checked time to time. To check the fusing temperature, Pyrometer or Thermo paper
may be used. In Pyrometer, there are probes which to be set inside the interlining and
fabric. Then fusing is done. If the temperature, showing by both Pyrometer and fusing
machine, is same then the machine showing temperature is assumed to be correct. But if
differs, and then is necessary to confirm which one is giving accurate result. Under such
situation, Pyrometer is checked by hot water of known temperature. Thermo paper is a kind
of scaled paper which is temperature sensitive. Due to effect of temperature color of the
thermo paper is changed and shows the temperature.

FUSING PRESSURE
Fusing pressure is to be maintained as per recommendation. If recommended pressure is
not maintained then strike through, strike back or insufficient bond strength may result.
Hence fusing pressure shown in the dial of the machine needs to be checked time to time.
To check the fusing pressure paper strip and pressure pill may be used. The pressure pill is
placed inside the fusing bed during fusing. Due to fusing pressure the dimension of the
pressure pill is changed. Increased dimension of pressure pill is assessed with the reference
chart and fusing pressure is determined. If the reading of chart and reading of machine
differ, then the machine showing pressure is defective and needs to be controlled.

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FUSING TIME
Fusing time showing in the machine is to be checked time to time with the aid of a stop
watch.

PILLING STRENGTH
The bonding strength of fused components is to be checked by a tensile strength tester and
compared with the recommended pilling strength.

WASHING OR DRY CLEANING

Due to washing and dry cleaning, appearance of the fused components should be
unaffected. If it is not maintained after washing or dry cleaning, then the performance of
the interlining will be unsatisfactory.

*FURTHER DETAILED TESTS AND RESULTS ARE MENTIONED IN APPENDIX 1 & 2.

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 REFRENCES
https://qualityinspection.org/inspection-textile-
products/
https://www.degruyter.com/downloadpdf/j/aut.2015.15.issue
-3/aut-2015-0001/aut-2015-0001.pdf
http://atira.in/Test_Construction.aspx
http://atira.in/Test_PerfomanceTest.aspx
http://atira.in/Test_StrengthTest.aspx
http://atira.in/Test_ColorFastness.aspx

https://www.hermanmiller.com/content/dam/hermanmiller/doc
uments/materials/reference_info/Quality_Standards_Textile
s.pdf
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2015/07/quality-
control-in-fusing-fabric.html
http://www.coatsindustrial.com/en/information-
hub/apparel-expertise/sewing-threads
http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-
article/2239/quality-assessment-of-sewing-threads?page=1
https://www.slideshare.net/Shreeti1/assqc-on-snap-
fasteners-and-buttons

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