APPAREL QUALITY

MANAGEMENT

Assignment -1
Topic-FLAMMABILITY TESTING

SUBMITTED TO: Ms SUDESHNA DUTTA ROY

SUBMITTED BY: SHALINI YADAV
FMS-II
NIFT, GANDHINAGAR
INTRODUCTION

Flammability is the way:-

• A material reacts to heat, the manner in which it ignites and
burns.
• the ease or the difficulty with which a burning textile is
extinguished
• And also the type or melt remaining and also the amount of
smoke produced.

Clothing and textile products must meet certain flammability

standards. It is governed by the following regulations:-
CALIFORNIA TECHNICAL BULLETIN 117 SEC
This is the most widely performed flammability test, being mandated
for all upholstery fabrics - including leather - used in the State of
California. The test involves a 1-second flame impingement.
CFR 1610 (CS 191-53)
This is the U.S. standard for all apparel fabrics, implemented under the
Flammable Fabrics Act.
ASTM D 1230
This is the Canadian standard for all fabrics (apparel, draperies,
bedding, linens, etc.).
NFPA 702
Measures the burning rate of apparel fabrics.
Also, the flammability issue is very important from a product liability
point if view.

FLAMMABILITY OF CLOTHING TEXTILES

All fabrics of natural and regenerated cellulose, as well as certain types
of finished and unfinished fabrics made from other natural or synthetic
fibers, are combustible. Some combustible fabrics, when used for
clothing, potentially dangerous to the wearer because of the speed and
intensity of flame with which those fabrics burn and their ease of
ignition, and because of the design of the garment. Two of these
factors, the ease of ignition and the speed of flame spread can be
measured and relied upon to decide whether fabrics tested are
dangerous or not.
The flammability of clothing textiles is governed by title 16 CFR (code
of federal regulation) 1610.
This regulation does not apply to hats, gloves, footwear, and
interlining fabrics. This regulation also exempts following of this
regulation:
1. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fabric content, weighing 2.6
ounces per square yard or more.
2. Combination of fibers like acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin,
polyester, and wool.
3. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fabric content, weighing 2.6
ounces per square yard or more.

Flame resistant fibers and fabrics:

Flame resistant fibers and fabrics are used in the manufacture of

industrial work wear, firefighters’ apparel and professional motor
racing apparel to protect the wearer against fires, electrical arcs and
molten metal splashes.
The introduction of tough legislation regarding the provision of flame
resistant apparel, and the growing use of such apparel, has contributed
to a drop in the number of fire-related injuries and fatalities in recent
decades. Fire departments which issue high-tech turnout gear to their
employees have seen a decline in the number of burn injuries. In some
cases the decline has been dramatic. Similarly, the number of fatalities
in professional motor racing has fallen sharply since the 1960s when it
became compulsory for drivers to wear flame resistant garments.

Stricter regulations regarding fire safety and changes in market

requirements have spurred the development of new fibers, treatments
and fabrics. These new products have joint established names such as
DuPont’s Nomex; Indura, made by Westex; Kermel; and Proban, which
is produced by Rhodia.

In fire resistance applications, asbestos fiber and glass fiber have been
replaced by high-tech protective fabrics which are comfortable and
which fulfill stringent performance criteria. Multi-functional fabrics have
become increasingly available. These combine flame resistance with
other protective characteristics such as chemical resistance, anti-static
properties and high visibility.

45 DEGREES FLAMMABILITY TEST METHOD:

The principle behind this test method is measurement of ease of
ignition and the speed with which flame spreads along with visual
observation of flame intensity. These three factors are used to
separate various fabrics into three classes of flammability as described
below, thus assisting in a judgment of fabric suitability for clothing.
This test is designed to indicate textiles that ignite easily and, once
ignored, burn with sufficient intensity and rapidly so as to be
hazardous when worn. This method can be applied to the testing of
textile in general; however, the scale of evaluation is applicable only to
textiles used for which three classes of flammability are defined:

Class 1, normal flammability: These textiles are generally accepted

by the trade as having no unusual burning characteristics.

Class 2, intermediate flammability: These textiles are recognized

by the trade as flammability characteristics between normal and
intense burning.

Class 3, rapid and intense burning: These textiles are considered

dangerously flammable and are recognized by the trade are being
unsuitable for clothing because of their rapid and intense burning.

PROCEDURE :
Specimens are prepared by placing the fabric in its most flammable
position. And then dried and held at an angle of 45, a standardized
flame is then applied to the surface near the lower end for one second,
and the time require for flaming to proceed up the fabric a distance of
5 inches is recorded. On the basis of ignition of the fabric is classified
into three steps:-

FOR PLAIN
SURFACES

Class 3
Class 1
Rapid and intense
Normal flammability Class 2
Average burn time is
a) Average burn time Not applicable
less then 3.5 sec
of 3.5 sec or more
For 10 specimens

FOR RAISED
FIBRES

Class 1 Class 2 Class 3

Normal flammability Intermediate Rapid and intense
Average burn time Average 4-7 sec for Average burn time is
of 0-7 sec or more 5-10 specimens less then 4 sec for
for 5-10 specimens 10 specimens
FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN’S SLEEPWEAR

The standards for flammability of children’s sleepwear were issued to

protect young children from death and serious burn injuries associated
with ignition of sleepwear garments, such as nightgowns and pajamas
of sleepwear garments, by small open flame sources. These standards
cover two size ranges of children’s sleepwear. One standard covers
sizes 0 through 6X and the other standards covers sizes 7 through 14.
The safety requirements of the two standards are nearly identical.
They prescribe a test which requires that specimen of fabrics, seams,
and trims of children’s wear garment must self extinguish after
exposure to a small open flame.

Sizes 0 through 6X
It is covered by title CFR 1615. This includes any product of wearing
apparel up to and including size 6X, such as nightgowns, pajamas, or
similar related items such as robes.

This regulation excludes:

a) diapers and underwear
b) garments sized for a child nine month of age or younger
c) tight fitting garments sized from 9 months to 6X.

Sizes 7 through 14
the flammability of children’s sleepwear, sizes 7 to 14, is covered by
Title 16 CFR 1616.it covers any product of wearing apparel from size 7
to 14 such as nightgowns, pajamas .

This regulations excludes

 a) Underwear and diapers
b) Tight fitting garments.
c) Bears a label stating the size of the garment; for example “size
7”. If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is
offered for sale at retail, the same information must appear
legibly on the package of the garment.

The flammability of children’s sleepwear sizes 0 to 6X and 7 to 14 is

evaluated by the vertical flammability tester.

VERTICAL FLAMMABILITY TEST

This test is used exclusively for testing the flammability of children’s

sleepwear under title 16 CFR 1615 and 1616.

Test method:
A sample consists of five specimens; each measuring 3.5 inch X
10inch.each specimen is mounted in a special U-shaped holder.
After oven drying for 30 min at 105 degree Celsius and cooling for
30 min in desiccators, the specimen are suspended vertically in a
chamber, one at a time, and subjected to flame impingement along
the center bottom edge for 3 sec and allowed to burn. The char
length is measured and recorded. Char length is the distance from
the original lower edge of a specimen to the end of the tear or void
in the charred or damaged of the specimen.
 Test criteria:
Three samples consisting of five specimens each are tested. An item
is considered acceptable if:
a) the average char length of the five specimens that make up a
sample does not exceed 7 inches, and
b) the full specimen burn of any individual specimen is not it’s full
length, i.e.,10 inches.

POINTS TO NOTE ABOUT 45 DEGREES AND VERTICAL

FLAMMABILITY
The following points that are:
1. Rigid holders restrict fabric movement and shrinkage during
burning. this places fabric under tension and can produce rapid
upward burning.
2. Metal holders prevent horizontal flame propagation and
sometimes redirect the flames upward at the fabric holding
interface.
3. Metal holders prevent horizontal flame propagation and often
result in flame extinguished by the holder leg.

LIMITING OXYGEN CONCENTRATION

METHOD

Definition: A flammability test based on the technique of clamping a

certain volumetric concentration of specimen in a tube, and
introducing a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen, the relative
concentrations of which can be gradually varied at measured rates. A
hydrogen flame is applied to the top of the sample until it ignites, then
is withdrawn. If the flame extinguishes, the concentration of oxygen is
increased and the sample is re-ignited until it finally continues to bum.
The concentration of oxygen at this point is the index of flammability,
calculated as

where O2 is the minimum volumetric concentration of oxygen which

will just support combustion, and N2 is the associated nitrogen
concentration.
Significance and Use

Knowledge of the limiting oxygen (oxidant) concentration is needed for

safe operation of some chemical processes. This information may be
needed in order to start up or operate a reactor while avoiding the
creation of flammable gas compositions therein, or to store or ship
materials safely. NFPA 69 provides guidance for the practical use of
LOC data, including the appropriate safety margin to use.

SCOPE

1 These test methods cover the determination of the limiting oxygen

(oxidant) concentration of mixtures of oxygen (oxidant) and inert gases
with flammable gases and vapors at a specified initial pressure and
initial temperature.

2 These test methods may also be used to determine the limiting

concentration of oxidizers other than oxygen.

3Differentiation among the different combustion regimes (such as the

hot flames, cool flames and exothermic reactions) is beyond the scope
of these test methods.

4 These test methods should be used to measure and describe the

properties of materials, products, or assemblies in response to heat
and flame under controlled laboratory conditions and should not be
used to describe or appraise the fire hazard or fire risk of materials,
products, or assemblies under actual fire conditions. However, results
of this test may be used as elements of a fire risk assessment which
takes into account all of the factors which are pertinent to an
assessment of the fire hazard of a particular end use.

Factors Affecting Textile Flammability

Fibre content, fabric construction, fabric weight and fabric finishes can
all affect the flammability or rate of burn of textiles. All textiles will
burn to varying degrees if exposed long enough to a flame or an
intense heat source.When discussing any one
factor below, it is assumed that all other pertinent factors remain
constant.

A) Fibre Content

With regards to flammability, fabrics may be classified generally

according to fibre content:
• readily flammable:
These fibres ignite readily and burn rapidly, leaving a light ash residue
(e.g., cotton, acetate, triacetate, rayon, ramie).
• moderately flammable:
These fibres are more difficult to ignite.The synthetics tend to melt and
drip, sometimes self-extinguishing upon removal of the ignition source
(e.g., acrylic, nylon, polyester, olefin, silk).
• relatively nonflammable:
In general, these fibres will not support combustion after removal of
the ignition source (e.g., wool, modacrylic, vinyon, saran).

Blends
Fabrics made of two or more fibres (blends) display flammability
characteristics that are different from those of the individual fibres,
and testing is the only way to ascertain the flammability of the blend.
For example, although polyester is less flammable than cotton, some
cotton/polyester blends have been shown to burn rapidly and generate
more heat than 100% cotton fabrics. This is due to a “scaffolding”
effect, where the charred cotton in the blend acts as a support or
scaffold for the polyester fibres.

B) Fabric Construction

For textiles, the critical factor in determining flammability ratings for

varying construction techniques is the availability of oxygen.
Combustion is accelerated if air can permeate a fabric easily. The more
loosely woven a fabric, the more combustible it is, and the faster the
flame will travel over the surface of the fabric. For example, a
lightweight tightly woven polyester fabric may be difficult to ignite,
whereas a lightweight loosely woven (mesh) polyester fabric may fail
flammabilty testing. Fabrics with a raised fibre surface require special
consideration. Fleece-style fabrics, flannelettes and terry towelling are
some examples of construction which allow individual fibres or
yarns to be exposed readily to accidental contact with ignition
sources.This, combined with the fact that air readily penetrates and
circulates around these loose fibres and yarns, increases the hazard
level of raised fibres surface fabric.

C) Fabric Weight

A lightweight fabric tends to be more flammable than a heavier weight

fabric of the same fibre content and fabric construction. For example,
rayon chiffon usually fails to meet the HPA flammability requirements
while rayon georgette generally passes.The georgette yarns are more
tightly twisted and the weave is more tightly compacted than chiffon.
Consequently, the georgette fabric is more difficult to ignite, and when
it does ignite, the rate of burn is slower because of the restricted
availability of oxygen.

D) Fabric Finishes

A chemical or mechanical finish alters the surface of a fabric and in

doing so affects the flammability of that fabric. Finishes not designed
specifically to retard flammability must be considered as unknown
variables that influence the total flammability of the textile product.
Only through testing can the effect of the system be ascertained. For
example, enzyme washes designed to reduce the pile on 100% cotton
fleece tend to reduce the surface flash by shortening and compacting
the loose cotton fibres.

FACTS REGARDING FLAMMABILITY

Fact 1: Most clothing and household textiles will burn.

To burn, clothing must be ignited from some heat or flame source. You
don’t need a flame, only heat to start a clothing fire. When common
apparel and household furnishing textiles get hot enough they will burn
and give off toxic smoke. For example, if you leave a hot iron on a
cotton shirt too long, the heat will scorch the shirt and can start a fire.

Fact 2: Clothing fires are started by common household

ignition sources.
Clothing fires are often started by items commonly found and used
around the house for heat or light. The majority of fires resulting in
child fire injuries and deaths are started by
children playing with fire in a bedroom with matches or lighters when
fabric or paper ignites . To reduce chances of clothing fires: Store all
items likely to tempt small children safely out of reach. This includes…
• Candles
• matches
• Cigarettes and cigars
• Cigarette lighters
• Flammable liquids such as paint thinner, gasoline, charcoal lighter
Use space heaters and fireplaces safely. Before nap or bedtime,
extinguish or turn off…
• Cigarettes and cigars
• Candles
• Fireplace embers
• Space heaters
• Kitchen ranges
Never reach into a fire or across an open flame because your sleeve
might catch fire. For example…
• Candles
• Gas flames or hot coils of kitchen ranges
• Barbecue grills
• Wood burning stoves
• Fireplaces

Fact 3:clothing and household textile labels show if a fabric is

flame resistant.
By looking at a fabric you cannot judge if it is flame resistant or flame\
retardant, so you must look for a label. If there is no label claiming
flame resistance, you must assume
the textile will burn rapidly. Be sure you understand the terms used on
clothing labels and other products.

Fact 4:The way a fabric is made (knit, weave, lace, etc.) affects
how it burns.
Heavy close structures ignite with difficulty and burn more slowly than
light, thin, or open fabrics. In general, summer weight clothing is more
likely to catch fire than winter weight fabrics. However, heavy weight
fabrics burn longer when ignited, because there is more flammable
material present.Fabrics with more of the fiber surface area exposed to
air have more oxygen available to support burning and therefore burn
more easily. Thus,thin, gauzy fabrics, lace, or brushed fabrics can be
very flammable.
Fact 5: Maintaining flame resistant properties in children’s
sleepwear
requires following care label instructions.
Childrens’ sleepwear must have a care label as other wearing apparel
does. This label may give particular warnings about avoiding use of
laundering products that would alter

Flame resistant characteristics. Fabric softeners in liquid form have

been shown to increase the speed in which certain fabrics burn
because the coating itself is flammable. Dryer drying may make fuzzy
fabrics fluffier, adding to their likelihood of catching fire. Carbonate-
based detergents also can deposit on fibers making fabrics more
flammable.

Fact 6:Flammability standards exist for carpets, rugs, and

mattresses, but other home furnishings do not have special
standards.
Textiles in many home furnishings products, such as bedding, drapery,
and upholstery, are not covered by special flammability standards, but
carpets, rugs, and mattresses are.