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Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Instituto de Profesorado Sedes Sapientiae


Teacher Training College
Gualeguaych, Entre Rios

MATE
The Argentinian custom
By

Butelli, Esteban.
Esteve, Mara Eugenia.
Schnfeld, Flavia.
Tommasi, Roselli.

1st Year English Department


Subject: Investigacin Educativa I.
Teacher: Celina Etchegoyen.
Year 2006.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Introduction

The custom of mate occupies a central place in our society. We are going to
focus our attention in the phenomenon in our own region in order to show its situation
at the present.
The choice of this topic has emerged from living the phenomenon and the desire
to transmit knowledge that enriches our culture.
What is mate?
It is basically an infusion but it has characteristics that make of it an outstanding
household beverage. To prepare it we need hot water, yerba mate, a gourd and a
straw. The yerba is put into the gourd; water is poured and drunk with the straw.
Drinking mate is part of our culture and carries with it our history from the
natives up to the present.

In this country no one drink mate because they are thirsty. It is more a
custom. Mate is exactly opposed to television. It makes you talk if you are with
someone else and it makes you think when you are alone.
When someone arrives at you home the first phrase is hello and the second is
Do you want some mate?. This happens at any house; at poor's house and at rich's
house. In summer and in winter.
If you have children you begin giving them mate when they ask. You give it to
them warm, with a lot of sugar and they feel as if they were adults. With the years they
will choose whether to have it bitter, sweet, hot, cold, with orange peels or herbs.
Yerba is the only thing that there is always in all houses. Always, with
inflation, with any party at government, with any of our sufferings. If one day there is no
yerba at home, a neighbour will lend you some. Yerba is not denied to anyone.
This is the only country in the world where the point between being a child and
become a man occurs one particular day. Nothing about long trousers, university or
living away from parents. One start being an adult when feels the necessity of having
mate alone. In the very moment a youth drinks the first mate on his or her own it is
because he or she has discovered that has a soul. None of us remember when we had
our first mate alone. But it must have been an important day because there were
revolutions inside.
Mate is a show of values, it is respect for your turn to talk and your turn to
listen, it is friendship, and it is generosity of giving up to the end. The hospitality of an
invitation; it is justice of one to one. It is the obligation of saying thanks at least once
a day. It is the loyal and ethic attitude of meeting without any other purpose apart from
share.
Now you know, a mate is not simply a mate
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

1.1 Past

The history of the yerba mate can be traced back in written documents by
conquerors who described the native people, their flora and the fauna.

When the conquerors came, native people already knew the yerba mate tree
and its properties but it took them some time to share their custom with foreigners.

In 1554 it was observed by criollos that native people used to take yerba
mate leaves in a little bag with them. The leaves, which were triturated and called
ca', were chewed or drunk in an infusion brewed inside a container called mati and
sipped with a straw. All the materials were taken from plants.

In 1565 an institution called The Jesus Company was founded by


Guizpuzcano Ignacio de Loyola which was established in the southern part of Brazil, in
Paraguay and in the provinces of Misiones and Corrientes in Argentina. In 1906 the first
settlement started a new social and political organization. The Jesuits, as the members
of the Company were called, learnt from the natives about the yerba mate. At first
they prohibited them to use it, but when they found it had many properties they started
to cultivate it. The plant had grown wildly up to that moment. During the first decade of
the XVII century they cultivated the yerba mate and sold it to the other colonies,
which become a very profitable business. It was also sold in Spain known as the Jesuits
tea but was not drunk with the mati and the straw. In 1767 the Jesuits were expelled
by the Spanish King Carlos III and the cultivations were abandoned but continued
growing.

In 1810 it came to be a forbidden action to cut down the yerba mate tree
because it was considered an essential source of vitamin in the population. This gives us
the idea that it was already used in everyday life by those times. By 1911 the yerba
mate plantations had spread all over Argentina and in 1935 a bill about the regulations
for its cultivation was passed. The yerba mate was known by that time in Uruguay,
Paraguay, the south of Brazil and Argentina.

In those times when the Jesuits were expelled, the natives were left without an
organization and lived freely in the region. Those people were called gauchos. They
took up the custom of having mate to the times of the colonies.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The gauchos

The gauchos were the inhabitants who travelled without destination by horse
hunting wild cattle to sell to Europeans. Their equipment was boleadoras, bow and
knife. They had as competitors not only Europeans but also native people. That is why
they took up different activities when cattle run out. Some of them fought with federal
caudillos, others were employed as labourers at meat salting houses or worked in
farms.

For this reason people called gaucho to any man who worked in the country
and rode horses. Gauchos were a marginal social class although they were much
respected because they were tough, free and skillful with horses and with their hands.
They were also smart; this admiration was shown in poetry using their sayings and
ideas. The figure of the gauchos as independent and loyal men inspired the book
Martin Fierro by Jose Hernndez which is an epic poem written in a style that evokes
the rural Argentine ballads known as payadas and is a touchstone of Argentine
national identity.

Books like this one shown gauchos as a mythic character that reflected the
essential values of an Argentinean.

Nowadays gauchos live austere and comfortably but very close to nature,
taking care of rural customs, such as mate, and the environment.

After 1810 it was described as a very common custom among families to have
parties once or twice a week where mate was served in two ways: as an infusion or
with the mate and straw. They made no distinction of social classes. The mate was
sipped with biscuits or sweet bread, in the morning or in the evening. Most of the
families had black salves, one of which was the one in charge of preparing mate.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

1.2 Present

The custom of having mate is typical in Argentinean homes although it has


been widely known in other places and nowadays, thanks to the flask, which keeps
water hot, people can take their mate equipment anywhere and drink it in any
occasion.

Almost 90% of the Argentinean people drink this infusion and only in 2004, 230
million kilos of yerba mate were bought. The 11% of the production was exported.
Not only is Argentina the first consumer of this product but also the first producer in the
world.

Between the years 2000 and 2004 the consumption of yerba mate did not vary
during the economic crisis the country suffered from. There was a tendency to change to
a cheaper trademark, but the consumption did not vary at all.

In relation to other dinks, the study consulted compares: a person consumes per
year about 50 litres of fizzy drinks, 30 litters of wine, 34 liters of beer, 18 liters of
mineral water and 100 liters of mate and emphasizes mate is as much consumed as
running water. Compared with household breakfast drinks, the annual consumption per
capita is 6.4 kg while in the case of coffee is 0.9 and tea 0.16kg.

Women drink more mate than men: 89.5% to 88.2% according to the same
study.

There are 125 companies that produce and sell yerba mate. Most of them have
more than one trademark so there are more than 320 trademarks in the market. Some of
the most important companies are cooperatives.

Source: TGI Argentina Study is a survey of 6.351 people between the ages of 12
and 75, carried out by IBOPE Argentina.

The idea of serving mate to customers appeared in Buenos Aires when tourists
wanted to know what mate was and asked to try it out at a bar. In the late 90 the idea
reappeared but connected with business and spread slowly. Nowadays there are some
restaurants and bars that include mate in their menus.

The first bar to offer it to their customers was Mister Mate in San Telmo. They
gave customers the complete kit to sip mate for $4. Many of them were German,
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Japanese, Anglo-Americans and Canadians that reached Buenos Aires searching for
autochthonous curiosities. The local closed shortly afterwards because a competitor
appeared in the town center, but it has the honour to be the first. Other bars that offer
mate to their customers are:

Dios los cra offers to their customers the option to share mate with biscuits
or torta frita. The owner says that people at first are surprised but then they take the
kit and start to share mate. For foreigners the experience is even more surprising. In
addition to bitter mate there are other tastes such as sweet mate, with coffee,
cinnamon or any herb.

Nanaka is a bar for young people. The particularity of this bar is that you can
buy your own straw to use when you go there. Lessons about how to prepare mate are
given to foreigners and newcomers. They can also buy presents.

Haras del Norte. The idea of serving mate in the evenings started because
the students from a university which is near the bar used to go to ask for hot water to
have mate. Now they go to study and share mate.

El gusto es nuestro is also near a university. You can ask for the mate
equipment for $1.5 or $3 if you want some biscuits to eat.

Bombilla mate bar is situated in San Carlos de Bariloche, which is tourists


spot.

The custom of having mate in the evenings at the bar is on fashion in Buenos
Aires, where the custom was almost lost. Most of the people that follow this fashion are
students and people that work at offices.

Also at University and Teacher Training Colleges in Entre Ros and Buenos
Aires students are usually allowed to have mate even during the lessons.

Mate has reached the street. It is a common to find people drinking mate in
the street everyday but mainly at weekends in public places while they enjoy their free
time. Small groups share their mate and biscuits. For foreigners it is strange to find so
many people having mate but for us is as common as walk.

Many people that work in the street have their own mate kit to sip. The
majority are shop assistants and taxi or bus drivers.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Yerba mate in the world

It is known that in the countries where Argentinian people has settled , such as
The United States and Spain, the export of yerba mate has a certain importance
although its consumptions is among the Argentinian community there. But in some
countries they sip mate because they like it. This is the case of Syria, Lebanon and
Israel. The mate reached those destinations thanks to people who came to Argentina
to live but could not adapt themselves and returned to their original countries, taking
with them the custom of sipping mate. That explains why there has been a steady
exportation to those counties.

The principal importers are: Chile, United States, Spain, Hungary, Italy, Syria,
Lebanon, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Korea, Russia, and Paraguay.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

2.1 Description of the yerba mate plant:

Scientifically, the yerba mate plant has been known in Europe since the
beginning of the XIX century with the name of Ilex theazahs. This name was given to
the plant by Bompland in 1821. Afterwards, in 1822, it was called Ilex
Paraguauriensis by Saint Hilarie.
The plant is original from South America where it can be seen growing wildly or
in plantations.
In the rainforest the plant can reach up to sixteen meters, but in plantations it is
kept up to the height of three to six meters, which is a practical height for harvesting
since the branches are near the ground, so that, the plant resembles a bush.
The leaves endure in the plant for three years; they have an oval shape and a
serrated edge. Its size depends on the varieties of plant but generally they have a length
of five to ten centimeters long and two or five centimeters wide. When the plant is
completely grown, its leaves are thick, hard and glitter, as if they were waxed, and the
upper part is greener than the lower one.
In Argentina yerba mate can be only cultivated in Misiones and Corrientes.
Here, the cultivation takes place from February to March, and after six months
approximately, the best little plants are selected and planted in pots during the months
of October and November. In the autumn-winter season the little plants are carried
definitively to the plantation where they are protected from sun and wind. In the
plantations there is a distance of about three meters between each line of plants and two
o three meters between each of the plans depending on the density wanted.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

2.2 Properties of Yerba Mate

People who sip "mate" do it because they like it. But, as it happens many times,
people do things without knowing deeply what they mean.
"Mate" has many properties which have been proved throughout the years. For
instance, now it is known that "yerba mate" is an important source of vitamin C.
All the preparations containing "mate" produce a general stimulation, especially
over the brain activity and nerves.
"Mate" is a heart regulator and it has important nutritional properties which
allow a person who has not eaten for hours to continue working or doing an activity
with the same strength they have when they have eaten. Besides it reduces the sensation
of feeling hungry and makes you feel satisfied for more time.
It is said that "matena" has the same stimulant effects than coffee or alcoholics
drinks but without their unpleasant results.
Many professionals consider that "mate" could be an excellent nourishment for
those who work or study during hours without stopping, or those who are in bad
situations such as poverty and war times.
The following chart shows in detail the composition, properties and nutritional
facts that "yerba mate" has.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Nutritional Facts

Sodium
"Pantotnico" acid.
Potassium
Vitamin B
Vitamin B2
Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Iron
Calcium
Magnesium
Phosphorous
Proteins

Properties

Diuretic
Stimulant
Digestive
Antioxidant
Cellular Regenerative
Strength heart's activity
Stimulates brain's activity
Active the peristaltic movements

Source: "Instituto Nacional de la Yerba Mate"


Source: "Instituto Nacional de la Yerba Mate"

Chemical Composition (100%)

Humidity 9.5
Total ashes 9.0
Insoluble ashes on "Clorhdrico" acid 1.5
Caffeine 0.6
Strange Vegetable Substances 1.0
Minimum watery extract 25
Seeds of "Yerba Mate" 1.0

This "Yerba Mate" is not altered, "ardida" or worm out.

Source: "Facultad de Farmacia y Bioqumica UBA" "Clarn".


Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

2.3 Elaboration process:

The harvest is carried out between April and October. The branches full of
leaves are cut carefully by using a scissor or a hand saw, depending on the thickness of
the branches. The twenty five percent of the leaves and branches are not harvested in
order to keep the structure of the plant intact.
After the branches are collected the quiebra begins. It is a process where the
branches are selected according to their thickness and then put into square pieces of
linen cloth tied in each of its corners. These raidos (packaging) are used to carry the
branches easily.
The following step is the sapecado, which consists in a very quick process of
drying (for twenty to thirty seconds) it is done within the twenty four hours after the
harvesting. Here the branches are put on direct fire to generate a chemical process that
ensures the future green colour of the leaves and their characteristic smell and flavour.
Among the next twenty four hours a process called secado (drying) is done, it
reduces the humidity of the leaves and makes them lose weight. Experts say that a good
secado (drying) has been done when the little sticks inside the yerba mate can be
broken easily.
The places where the secado (drying) process is done are different; they vary
according to the technology used in each company.
Afterwards, the yerba mate suffers a process called canchado that consists in
breaking the material (leaves and sticks) into small pieces of on square centimeter size
which are easy to be packaged and transported. Years ago, this process was done in a
primitive way by using machetes made of wood.
After the yerba mate is canchada, it is put into cloth-sacks with a capacity of
forty to fifty kilogrammes. It is a period when the yerba remains stationary. This
process can be natural or accelerated:
Natural: the yerba mate spends from six to twenty four months stored into the
cloth-sack until it has the flavour, smell and colour required.
Accelerated: the yerba mate spends from thirty to sixty days into a store-room
where temperature, wetness and air circulation are regulated to obtain similar
characteristics to the natural process.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The next step is the molienda where the yerba is ground, filtered, and mixed
repeatedly until it is suitable for consumption. Here, different kinds of yerba are
produced by changing some details of these last three processes and by adding more
leaves and fewer sticks and vice versa.
Finally, the packaging is done. During this process the yerba is put into
special packages which consist of several layers of different materials to prevent the
characteristics of the yerba mate from being altered. The packaging into which
yerba is sold, generally has a capacity either one or two kilograms or half a kilogram
or a quarter kilogram.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

3.1 Containers

3.1.1 Different Kinds

There are different materials to make a mate E.g they can be made of gourd,
earthenware, glass, silver, plastic, coccus, horn, wood, tall slender glass, alpaca or
ceramics.
In the past the upper social classes used mate made of silver or alpaca, but
nowadays people sip it in a mate made of gourd or wood, except in Brazil where it is
common to find people sipping mate in a container made of coccus.
The mate made of horn or made of tall slender glass are used as sweet mate.
The mate made of earthenware is common in some parts of Buenos Aires,
where people are used to as well as the mate made of ceramics.
The mate made of glass is not common. We can see this kind of mate only
as an adornment.
The mate made of plastic is commonly seen in a supermarket and it also has a
straw made of plastic so this kind of mate can be discarded.
The mate made of gourd, wood or tall slender glass can be used in their
natural state or sometimes being decorated by craftmen in leather, knitted swig, bulls
balls leather, hairy leather, carpinchos fur, cows hoof, snakes skin, fish skin and
mondongo and can even be carved and painted in Indian Ink.
It is common to see a mate made of gourd wrapped in leather or knitted swig.
The gourd also can be toasted so that is takes different shades of brown.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

3.1.2 Mate seasoning

We called mate seasoning to the process of adapting the container to the kind
of infusion you want.
In order to season the mate you should fill in the new gourd with wet yerba
mate up to the top of it; then you must put hot water and leave it resting for a day, after
that you should rub the soft inner part of the gourd and then you might wash the mate
with a lot of water and repeat the steps one more time.
We should follow these steps only with the mate made of gourd or wood
because their inner parts will get some sort of yerba mate taste in this way.
Other ways of seasoning mate:
For sweet mate: caa (beer) is poured into the mate and then the mate
filled in the 4/5 is deprived of sticks; after that you must fill it in caa (beer) again and
leave it resting for a night.
For a curious formula: fill in the matewith boiled milk or water with beans,
the make a kind of mazamorra with toast wheat flour and fix it.
For a drunken formula: put wine inside the new gourd so the germs of the
fermentation will get stuck to the porous walls of the gourd leaving some taste of wine
in it.
For bitter mate: fill in the mate with yerba mate and wet it with cold
water, and when the yerba mate increases its capacity add hot water and sip it again,
after having done that many times you should put the straw into the other side of the
gourd where we guess that the yerba mate is still unused. You should repeat these
steps three times to get a good mate.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

3.2 The straw

Although it seems strange, the straw was invented long time after "mate" was.
Native people drank "mate" in a particular way; They put some "yerba mate" into half
gourd, then they poured warm water and finally they drunk it by using their upper lip to
prevent the "yerba mate" from getting into the mouth, and their front teeth as a kind of
filter.
In those times Spanish families had adopted the custom. But they drank the
"mate" in a different way. They used the half gourd too and they also filled it with
"yerba", but they put into the gourd a silver container full of little holes. This container
also had a thin tube with holes, stuck in the middle of it, just in caser the small parts of
"yerba" had passed through the first filter. This way the tube was used to sip the "mate"
and this utensil can be regarded as the predecessor of the modern straw.
Of course, the straw has been developed throughout the years, and the healthy
custom of having "mates" was affected by progress.
In the nineteenth century, the silver container was replaced by something
simpler, more economical and with better results. So that, it was becoming similar to the
straw we know nowadays. It consisted of a thin tube made of silver or bronze, which
was closed in the lower part and had a lot of tiny holes.
But this new utensil was a kind of luxury and it was difficult to obtain by
"gauchos" and natives. So, by using their mind and skill; they created a sort of straw
made of a thin cane which had a filter in one of its ends. It was made of plants fibre and
horse's hair, and it worked in the same way as metal straw did.
Nowadays, the straws are very similar one to the other, because they are made in
series. The straw has not suffered many changes during the latest fifty years, but it is
interesting to mention the apparition of the curved straw. There are two theories to
explain its invention, one of them says it had been developed when thinking in lorry
drivers, since they make long journeys and it is impossible for them to stop to sip
"mate" during their travel. So, the curved straw allows drivers to sip "mate" and to keep
their eyes and attention on their way at the same times. The other theory says that
curved straw was made to sip "mate" in bed to avoid putting pillows under the back of a
person. But it is a doubtful theory and it is difficult to believe that it was invented by
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

"gauchos"; if it is true it might have been made for people who lived in the city and had
their breakfast in bed.
Despite being considered as an unhealthy custom by foreign people and even by
a few Argentinians, the action of sharing the straw is not a means of transmitting
diseases, especially if the straw has a bronze tip. It does not exist a scientific
explanation for that but it is something that people who drink "mate" know because of
their own experience.
Anyway, the straw has change throughout the years from the primitive holey
tubes and canes used by natives until the carved straws made of gold, silver, iron,
bronze and "alpaca", which show the ability of the skilled "criollos" silversmiths.

3.3 The Kettle

The first container used to heat water was an earthen bowl with an edge that
made it possible for the water to be poured into the opening of the "mate" container.
But, as life does, this earthen bowl began to suffer the consequences of progress after
the custom was accepted by the conquerors. They thought that a jug made of metal was
more practical to heat water, and it was also easier to be used because of its handle. At
this point began the story of the kettle we know nowadays.
The primitive kettles made of copper were imported from Spain. Those kettles
were not different from a common jug with a handle attached to the upper part or at one
said of it. The opening was like the modern one and it could have a lid or not. The lower
part was quite wider than de top of the kettle.
This kind of kettle had two advantages: it reduced the possibility of being burnt
by hot water and also made it quicker the action of heating it.
The Spanish kettles were made by hammering, so their appearance was rustic
and opaque. But they were sold by millions. When England noticed that, they began to
produce they kettles immediately. They were similar in shape to Spanish ones but
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

perfectly polished, very shiny and even cheaper. But, mysteriously nobody wanted
them, so English manufacturers were obliged to make rustic kettles. Those were much
cheaper and, of course, they were successful so that they replaced Spanish kettles
forever.
The kettle used by "gauchos" was a bit different from the rest. Since they spent
most of their time travelling, their kettles had a particular shape. The handle could be
placed like the common ones but it was not attached to the body of the kettle on both
extremities: one of them was free and had a sort of eye. It was used to pass a rope
through to tie it to the horse. If the "gaucho" could not afford this kettle, they use a horn
to heat water; they filled the three fourths parts of it with water and then they put hot
stones into the horn, keeping it next to red hot coals but away from direct fire.
The name of this utensil varies according to the country: in Chile it is called
kettle, in Uruguay "caldera" (boiler), in Paraguay "itacugu" or "itacurugu", in Peru,
Bolivia and Argentina "pava", and in Brazil "chaleira". But their shape is very similar.
In Peru wealthy families used a kind of kettle that can be considered as the
predecessor of the flask. It was a carved kettle made of silver which had a container
inside. It was attached to the wall of the kettle by a tube which could be seen from
outside and functioned as a vent. The container was filled with red hot coal, so that it
kept the water warm. This kettle had two lids: one for each container, and two holes:
one to fill it with water and another to pour it.
Some other utensils similar to present kettles can be mentioned, such as a boiler
created in Great Britain which made a noise when the water had boiled by whistling; the
electric English kettle which was very popular in the fifty's, and the fisher flask which
had a metal bottle inside and an alcohol heater with an incredible security system.
But the truth is that the biggest change the kettle suffered occurred when people
began to sip "mate" outside. Its function was reduced and the flask, this metallic or
plastic container of cylindrical shape with a bottle made of glass inside, replaced the
kettle during the "cebado".
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

4.1 Brewing:

When experts affirm that the action of brewing mate is an art in itself, a common
question arises immediately: are there different techniques to do it?
The answer is "no". We can say that there is a unique technique which includes
two main kinds of "mates": sweet and bitter.
"Terer"(bitter "mate" brewed with cold water or juice) is not a special
technique, and the "mate cocido" is not a technique at all, since it does not include the
gourd, the straw and the kettle.
The differences in the way of preparing "mate" depend on the brewer and the
different areas of the country, but they are all included in the same technique. Even if
the differences were very important, they would not make an essential change into the
technique.
The temperature of the water used to brew "mate" gives origin to two different
styles of treating the "yerba mate", which are not related to the technique we have
already mentioned.
One of these styles, called "quemado" (burnt), involves brewing the "mate" with
boiled or almost boiled water. In the other one, the water is removed from the fire
before it boils, so that it is called "crudo" (raw).
The first style is preferred in most of Argentinean provinces, where sweet
"mate" is generally preferred, too.
People who prefer bitter "mate", also called "cimarrn", choose the second style.
It is typical from Argentinean "Litoral" (area on the Paran River).
Some people think that this difference in temperature is no a matter of style.
They say that this slight difference is caused by the sugar added, since there seems to be
a coincidence between the preferences of sweet "mate" brewed with warm water, and
bitter "mate" brewed with hot water.
Another popular belief says that bitter "mate" or "cimarrn" is only for men.
Besides, it is a kind of "mate" to be drunk alone because it invites to reflection, to think.
This is a lonely brewer, who serves and drinks "mates" according to the rhythm of his
mood. He is able to drink "mate" for hours, but he does not know that that is possible
because the human body tolerates it more than sweet "mate".
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

As for the "quemado" and "crudo" styles, it is necessary to mention an


unfinished quarrel among people preferring either one or the other style. Those who
follow the "crudo" style say that it is the original one; because the "mate" tradition
began in that region, the "Litoral", where "mate" is even brewed with completely cold
water (terer). On the other side, people who prefer the "quemado" style defend it
saying that native people used to prepared "mate" using entire leaves of "yerba mate"
tree, which needed boiled water to be able to release their taste and properties.
But the truth about the real and original style is an old dilemma, which is
thought never come to an end.

4.2 How to serve a good "mate"

If you want to enjoy a good "mate criollo", it is necessary to follow some steps.
First, put "yerba mate" into the "mate" container up to complete approximately the three
fourths parts of it. Then put your hand on the opening of the "mate" container (some
people prefer to put a piece of paper) and shake it in a smooth way, putting it upside
down. The purpose of this is to make the smallest parts of the "yerba mate" (a kind of
dust) remains on the upper part of the mate container. In this way it is less probable for
the "yerba mate" to block the small holes of the straw. Now, put the container in its
upright position carefully, taking into account that the biggest amount of "yerba mate"
must be kept on one of the sides of the container. Then pour hot water near the edge of
the emptier side.
It is advisable to wait for some minutes until the water is absorbed by the "yerba
mate", and then complete it with more hot water, avoiding putting to much.
When the "yerba mate" stops absorbing the water, block the opening of the straw
with your thumb and put the straw into the "mate" container firmly. The straw is
blocked to prevent the passage of air and "yerba mate" through it.
The secret of serving a lasting "mate" is to use water having a temperature
between 70 and 80 C, i.e. before it boils, because hot water can burn the "yerba mate"
Another tip to prevent the straw from being blocked is to keep some place of the
surface of the "yerba mate" dry, so that the air can pass through the opening of the
container.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Some people prefer putting the straw into the "mate" container when the "yerba
mate" is still completely dry. But, previously they have tightened the "yerba" by using
their fingers or the same straw. This way of serving "mate" has a disadvantage. It is
likely the straw gets blocked if the person who is serving the mate pours too much
water or does it abruptly. In this case the water does not allow the air to pass through the
surface. The straw becomes the only way out for the air to escape and take with it the
smallest dry parts of the "yerba mate"

1 2

4
3

5 6
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The correct way of developing this technique is by pouring the water next to
the straw, so that, the "yerba mate" around the filter is the one getting wet first. In doing
so, the straw is isolated from the air, at the same time a free area of made of dry "yerba"
is kepted in the opening to let the air pass through freely.
The person who is good at this way of serving mate is able to keep the "yerba
mate" dry until it is necessary. This amount of "yerba" is called "copete" (tuft) and it is
used as a reserve. When the "mate" is "lavado" (it means the "mate" has lost its taste)
the "yerba mate" is turned up. This action is called "dar vuelta el mate" and it involves
keeping out the straw and tightening the "yerba mate" to the opposite side of the
container. Once the straw has been used to tighten the "yerba", it is placed opposite its
previous position. Now the "mate" tastes as if it were new, and the brewer goes on
serving it.
If the "mate" you are serving is sweet, add sugar before pouring the water. It is
better not to add sugar when every "mate" is served, because if you do that you cannot
feel the real taste of the "yerba mate".
In serving sweet "mate" it is not necessary to tighten the "yerba". Besides, the
fact that the person prefers sweet "mate" gives us the clue that he or she does not like
the original flavour of the "yerba mate". So that, none of the treatments for the bitter
"mate" is used.
A very unusual style is the star "mate". This style takes its name from the special
way in which the "mate" is served. In this case the brewer serves "mates" to his guests
(two or more), but between guest and guest the person who is serving the "mate" drinks
one. It means that that, during each round, the brewer drinks as many "mates" as guests
he has.
Originally, the brewer used to be sitting in the middle of the round, so that the
way the "mate" followed drew the points of a star. Nowadays, it is called star "mate"
when the brewer drinks most of the "mates".

Star "Mate" Style.

Guests.
Way of the "mate".
Brewer.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

4.3 Differences along the country

People in Argentina often say: "Tell me what type of 'mate' you have and I will
tell you where you come from". This means that there are differences in the temperature
of the water, and the shape of the "mate" container used in different areas in the country,
where people even add other flavours, such as burnt sugar, some lemon or orange peel,
some leaves of mint or another fragrant herb, or a little spoonful of coffee.
In the Mesopotamian region, provinces of Entre Rios, Corrientes and Misiones,
people consider there is a winter "mate" and a summer one. The latter is called "terer"
and it is prepared with iced water or lemonade, with some ice inside the "mate"
container. Often an emptied grapefruit is used as a container. Bitter "terer" is said to be
very good to quench ones thirst, and young people often add artificial juice or frizzy
drinks. In winter, water is warmed to 80C and "mate" is usually served plain without
any sugar, in a big gourd. In the provinces of Formosa Southwards up to Entre Rios,
mate is used to being brewed in this way, but the particular characteristic is that this
kind of "mate" is not supposed to be finished by an only one person; people have a
couple of sips and then pass the "mate" to the nearest person in the round.
In the Northwest provinces, such as in Chaco, "mate" is a ceremony in itself.
The straw has to point at the person receiving the "mate" container; the "mate" should
be carefully brewed, if not, it means the guest is not welcome, and if the water is cold, it
means indifference. But by adding sugar, or slightly burnt sugar, cinnamon and warm
milk instead of water, it is consider as a sign of good taste.
In the West, in Salta, plain "mate" without sugar or additional herbs is the
favourite, but if we go to Santiago del Estero we can see that "mate" is often served with
honey.
In the Western provinces of La Rioja, Catamarca, San Luis and central Crdoba
people prefer sweet "mate" with boiled water. However, in Crdoba some others herbs
such as mint, "poleo" and "tala" are often added. In Mendoza, another Western
province, "mate" is served with cookies in the mid-afternoon.
In the Pampa region, "mate" is served sugarless and water does not reach the
boiling point.
In the province of Buenos Aires, people also prefer bitter "mate" without any
additional flavour, brewed in a container generally covered with colt or goat leather.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Further South, in Chubut, sugar is not added, because it is believed that it


damages the container which is often covered with leather. In Usuahia, the
southernmost city in the world, each person drinks "mate" according to the province
they come from.
These are some of the most important regional differences, but there are a lot
more along the country.
In spite of all the differences, Argentinian people not only consider the "mate" as
their national drink, but they regarded as a ritual to celebrate friendship. And this is the
reason why some terms, such as "to serve" or "to brew", are not enough to describe the
atmosphere created while drinking "mate": a real round where people share the straw,
the "mate" container and even their feelings. Besides, the word "cebar" involves the idea
of keeping, feeding and supporting. "Cebar mate" is not only to pour warm water into a
container full of "yerba", it requires to keep that "mate" in a good and tasty condition.
"Mate" is a way of socializing.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

5.1 Legend

There are different versions about the origin of the mate. The more common
one is a myth about the moon, another one is a guaran legend and there is also a
catholic version.
All of them have in common the character of the woman as the person in charge
of making the plant of yerba mate remain.

Myth
Since a long time ago the moon, who felt very lonely in the sky, had wanted to
know the other sky, the sea, which was down there. So one day she started to yell I
want to go down! I want to go down! A star which had heard the moon asked her
Why are you throwing such a tantrum? You are sentinel of the night and you cannot
leave your place. The clouds saw that the moon was crying, so they agreed to help her,
they made a plan for the absence of the moon so that it would not be noticed.
The rainbow lent his range of seven colours and the moon in a black cape, tulle
and a little wreath of stars went down very proudly. She felt like a bird flying until her
feet touched the hills on Paran River banks. The moon was fascinated by the flowers
and the scents; she wondered where the children were, she did not know the place was
tropical and deserted.
The river saw her and invited her to swim, the moon did not have to be asked
twice, while she was swimming she thought that now she had tasted the fruits and had
known the green grass, the ferns and the water, she could come back to her place and be
a far light which illuminates the roads of the world and the windows of the houses. As
she was distracted she forgot the jaguar, the fearsome animal of the rainforest that in the
nights is always ravenous looking for some victim.
The jaguar was hidden in the bushes and saw the moon; he thought it was
maizes omelette and when he wanted to chase after the moon the knife of a skilful
hunter ended with both, his hunger and his life. The hunter with his wife and his
daughter were the only inhabitants of the rainforest. They had built a hut and since a
long time before they had wanted to kill the jaguar because he had stolen their pets.
-Dont be afraid said the man to the moon I will take you to my hut and my family
will take care of you.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The man was very kind, he cooked the last omelette for her, the moon covered in
a big sheet felt very happy and human among kind people, until she heard the wife of
his saviour saying What are we going to eat tomorrow? There is no more maize, and
then she felt very sorry and decided to go back to take her position in the sky. Nobody
has noticed my absence, the moon thought What can I give to these peasants who
treated me so well? Something that helps them live happy moments, to forget the
loneliness and to comfort them after the hard work they do.
The moon was very excited and burst in silver tears that illuminated the hut with
lights and gleams irrigating all the fields. The next day the man went out and saw
strange bushes hither and thither. Among the dark green leaves with white little flowers
stuck out, the woman who was starving, prepared an infusion with this new yerba and
when they drunk it, they felt much better.
The bush grew everywhere and the country became famous and rich for its
yerba mate. It is said that the mans daughter was favoured with this gift; she never
died and goes on sharing out the gift of the moon.

Guarani legend
According to the legend, the ancestors of the Guaran at one time in the distant
past crossed a great and spacious ocean from a far land to settle in the Americas.
The Guaran tribes worked the land and became excellent craftsmen. They
looked forward to the coming of a tall, fair-skinned, blue eyed, bearded God (Pa i
Shume) who, according to the legend, descended from the skies and expressed his
pleasure with Guaran people.
He brought religious knowledge and imparted to them certain agricultural
practices to be of Benefit during times of drought; he unlocked the secrets of health and
medicine and revealed the healing qualities of native plants.
One of the most important of the secrets was how to harvest and prepare the
leaves of the Yerba Mate tree, which was meant to ensure health, vitality and
longevity.
It was like this: one day the tribe had to move on because alter four or five years
the soil always worn out. An old Indian that was tired of such moving, refused to go on
and preferred to stay there. The youngest of their daughters, beautiful Jary, had to
choose between going on with the tribes youths or remain isolated with her father.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Despite her friends pleas, she ended up staying with her father. This love gesture
deserved a prize.
One day, an unknown shaman arrived at the ranch and asked Jary what she
wanted in order to fell happy. The girl did not ask anything, but the old man asked I
want new forces to go on and take Jary to the tribe that went away. The shaman gave
him a very green plant, perfumed with kindness and told him to plant it, pick the leaves,
dry them on fire, grind them, put the pieces in a gourd, add cold or hot water and sip the
infusion. In this new beverage, you will find a healthy company, even in the sad hours
of the cruellest solitude, sipping the green sap, the old man recovered, gained new
strength and was able to resume their long journey towards meeting their kinsmen. They
were received with the greatest joy and the whole tribe adopted the habit of drinking the
green herb, bitter and sweet, that gave strength and courage, and would comfort
friendships at the sad hours of utmost solitude.

Catholic version
One day God wanted to prove the behaviour of their servants, so he came down
to the Earth with Saint John and Saint Peter. He went to far forests and came across the
hut of an old man who lived with his daughter, a young virgin of an outstanding beauty.
She was hidden because her father did not want her Argentinean soul to be tainted by
the wickedness of men.
God asked for a shelter to the old man who did not hesitate in doing so, and he
shared with them their miserable food.
To show them gratitude God turned the young lady into the plant of yerba
mate and if it is cut, it blossoms again remaining always green and offering a beverage
for good health.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

5.2 Vocabulary

Some years ago the gaucho only could speak and have contact with his fiance
alter their wedding, so a symbolic language was created around the mate. During the
fiances visits the china (country girl) resorted to mate in order to transmit her
thoughts to him. It was impossible for the couple to be left alone, so the message was
found through the brewing.

Unsweetened mate: indifference.


Sweet mate: friendship.
Very sweet mate: talk to my parents.
Cold mate: despise, indifference.
Mate with balm: disgust.
Mate with cinnamon: you are in my thoughts.
Mate with burnt sugar: I like you.
Mate with orange peel: come for me.
Mate with tea: indifference.
Mate with coffee: forgiven offence.
Mate with molasses: I sympathize with your sadness.
Mate with milk: esteem.
Very hot mate: I am so in love with you.
Boiling mate: hate.
Tasteless mate: repulse.
Mate with cedrn: agreement.
Mate with honey: marriage.
Obstructed mate: repulse.
Foaming mate: true love.
Consecutive mate: ill will.
Mate with omb: it is equivalent to strengthen the mate.
Mate brewed through the straw: dislike.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

There a lot of expressions those are related to mate, the most common ones are
listed below, which refer to the brewing, the temperature of water and some processes
applied to brewing, among others.
Encimar el mate (To put one mate over the other).
This expression is used when the brewer only offers mate to one specific
person, this person sips the mate and the brewer hurries to fill it up again. This quick
succession of mate is always interpreted unfavourably, because it tires the person who
receives them.
Cebar pelando (To brew skinning).
This expression refers to the temperature of the water, meaning that it is too hot.
Tatusear el mate
This process is required when the mate is losing its taste and it is necessary to
do something for the mate to recover its good taste. Tatusear the mate might
mean to turn over the brewing.
Hacerlo bostear (To make the mate bostear).
Sometimes the brewing increases its volume inside the mate container due to
the gradual swelling of the particles of yerba. This growing of yerba causes a
decrease in the quality of water that the mate container capacity allows in every
brewing. Because of this, it is necessary to remove a little of yerba, once in a while, to
reduce the volume of the brewing. When doing so, the brewer uses the flat face of the
filter of the metal straw.
Mate hospital (Hospital mate).
This is another expression related to the temperature of water, it is called so the
mate brewed with cold water. This expression refers to the effects that cold mate
can cause in the human body.
Cebar guarapos (To brew guarapos).
Guarapo is the name given to the juice extracted from the sugar cane and
which industrially treated, turns into; so it means that who brews guarapo does not
brew sweet mate, but sugar mate.
Mate trancado/tapado (Covered mate).
When the straw has been obstructed by the dust of the yerba, the mate is
called mate trancado in some Argentine provinces and mate tapado in those on the
Uruguay River bank.
Mate del zonzo (Mate of the fool one).
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The first mate is called mate del zonzo because it is the strongest, so
whoever sips the first one is taken for a fool.
Hacer mate (To make/prepare mate).
In Crdoba and other Argentine provinces the use of this expression is very
common. Instead of saying lets drink mate or lets brew mate, they say lets
make/prepare mate.

5.3 Rules
The 10 commandments for sharing a mate round:
1. Do not ask for sugar.
Many people are used to adding sugar to their coffee and tea, and it is perfectly
fine to ask for it. Many people also add sugar to their mates. But when you are asked
to join a mate fellowship, you should not do so.
2. Do not say that mate is unhygienic.
You may feel that it is unhygienic to put your mouth where everybody puts
theirs.
Of course it is, but that is expressly why sharing a mate is such an intimate
experience. The offer to share something so intimate is the highest honour of all. If you
do not want to be that close to someone, you should not share a mate with them.
3. Do not say the mate is too hot.
If everyone else is happy with the temperature of water it would be considered
as rude to ask them to cool it down, or to wait until it cools naturally.
4. Do not leave the mate half-way.
Despite the great similarity between mate and the peace pipe, there are some
basic differences. While everyone just takes one puff in the calumet and passes it on,
you should never do that with mate.
You must sip all the water until hearing the noise signalling the gourd is empty.
See the next rule.
5. Do no feel ashamed of the noise at the end.
If, after sipping, you hear the gourd snoring do no feel ashamed. It is all right,
no one will look upon you as being rude. It is what you are supposed to do.
6. Do no stir the gourd.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

The gourd may get clogged from time to time, due to itself, to the yerba or to
who prepared the mate. If that happens, you have all the right to complain, but please
do not stir the gourd.
Talk to who offered you the mate or passed the gourd to you.
7. Do not change the order.
A mate round works like a clock, the gourd passes from hand to hand, always
in the same order. If you are being served, hand it back to the brewer.
(If people are pouring their own water, which happens in some places, always
pass it to the next person without changing the order).
8. Do not slow down the rhythm.
Drinking mate alone is an excellent way to meditate on the things in your life;
you sip leisurely, thinking about whatever drifts your way.
To have a mate in a circle of people is quite different; the essence is not
meditation but rather integration. In a mate round, you talk, discuss, laugh, swear; you
are part of community; it is a fraternization, so do not forget to sip; the other people are
waiting.
9. Do not condemn the brewer for being the first to sip it.
If you say the server is rude because he or she prepares the mate and is the
first to sip it, well, you are the rude one.
The strongest sip is the first one, and whoever takes it is seen as doing the group
a favour.
10. Do not thanks before due time.
Say thanks only if you do not wish to continue having mate.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

5.4 Popular sayings

A cada gaucho su mate (To every gaucho his own mate)


It means that every thing has its own place and you can not wish the one that is
not yours.
Ya tens mate, callte (You already have mate so shut up)
This phrase tries to make us understand the value of everything in a balanced
expectation and satisfaction of oneself.
Mate a mate se vaca la pava (Mate after mate the kettle is getting
empty)
It means that little by little you can go further.
Al que revuelve el mate se le tapa la bombilla (Who stirs the mate gets the
straw obstructed)
It means that if you think too much about something it will end up having
unexpected problems.
Gringo con sed, hasta el mate le hace fiestas (To a thirsty gringo, even the
mate might meet his needs)
This phrase means that in hard time, even the most reluctant person is capable of
asking or accepting for help.
Al que es buen cebador ninguna yerba le afloja ( Whichever yerba is good
for a good brewer)
This phrase points out the value of everyones ability.
Con botas y mate, hasta el remate (With boots and mate until the end)
This phrase was created by Buenos Aires peasants; it means that even with the
most basic elements, they could get up with any labour.
Si te convidan con mate no andes mirando la yerba (If someone invites you
to have mate, you should never peer what sort of yerba it has)
This phrase is similar to dont look a gift horse in the mouth, it means that if
something is given out to you, no matter how modest it is, it should always be good
received.
El mate no habla aunque tenga boca (The mate does not talk though it
does have a mouth)
This phrase is used for asking for silence, especially to the children.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

El mate eso como las botas: las ms lindas son las rotas (The mate is like
boots: the nicest are the most battered ones)
This phrase is related to the mate seasoning due to its constant use, compared
to the most comfortable shoes that are those being worn out.
A otro mate con sa yerba (To other mate with that yerba)
It means that you do not believe what you are being told.
A buen mate vas por yerba (What a good mate you go for yerba to)
It refers to the bad or incorrectly choice of a person to carry out some task.
Tom mate (Sip mate) It means someone got what he/she deserved. It is
also used as expression of surprise.
Si quiere mate, traiga yerba (If you want a mate, bring yerba.)
It means that if you want to be part of something, you should contribute to it.
Se trag el mate con bombilla y todo (He swallowed the mate and even the
straw)
This expression is used to say someone got something that he/she deserved
unexpectedly.
Me gusta el mate si la yerba no se quema (I like the mate if the yerba
does not get burnt)
Who says this phrase, points out that he likes everything in its fair extent.
Es lindo llegar a tiempo, cuando mate estn cebando (It is nice to get in
time, when the mate is being brewed)
It indicates how convenient it is to get to one place at the right moment.
Eso es calentar el agua pa que otro se cebe el mate (That is to heat water for
another person to sip the mate)
This expression is used in conversations about women and it means that one man
seduces a woman for another man to get some benefit from the situation
De donde yerba, si estoy es puro palo (These are just sticks, where is the
yerba?)
The person, who uses this phrase, thinks that someone is trying to fool him or
deceive him.
No me den un mate llorn, porque voy a perder plata (Do not give me a
tearful mate because I will lose money)
This phrase is related to superstition; it is believed that if someone receives a
dripping mate, he/she will lose money.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

La est poniendo demasiado yerba al mate (He is putting to much yerba in


the mate container)
This phrase refers to people that exhausts ones patience.
Esta yerba no es para su mate (This yerba is not for his mate)
The meaning of this expression is that someone is doing or pretending
something beyond his possibilities or means.
Mate repetido trae plata consigo (A mate being given once and again to the
same person brings money with it)
This phrase is said when by mistake, in the mate round someone receives two
running mates. It is also believed that the plan is fulfilled only if the person, who
received several running mate, kisses the mate base.
No tiene cruz en el mate (It he/she does not have a cross in their mate)
In this case the word mate means head, so this phrase is about people who do
not show common sense in their behaviour.
Andar con la yerba en la boca (To go around yerba in the mouth)
It means to be in a bad mood, under the weather, to be worried and not want to
talk to anybody.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

6.1 Valeria Trapaga: sommelier-tester of yerba mate.

She is the first sommelier-tester of yerba mate in the country. Her goal is to
teach the importance of this infusion and place it on the same scaffold where the wine
is.
Valeria was born in San Antonio de Areco. Her job and her passion is being
sommelier and yerba mate tester.
The final thesis of her career at the Escuela Argentina de Sommeliers was
about the yerba mate instead of wine. She included an analysis of the yerba mate
and a menu with foods containing yerba or to have the infusion with. It is a real
gastronomic revolution.
After her thesis, the Escuela Argentina de Sommeliers is thinking of including
yerba mate testing as a subject in the sommelier career, since they have the technical
vocabulary and the senses trained to taste. In the process of testing the senses that take a
part are sight, taste and touch . Then a final appreciation is made.
Valeria main goal is that people get to know more deeply about the yerba mate
because it has to do with our every day life and with our traditions and sometimes we do
not know even its process of elaboration.
With respect to flavoured yerba mate, there is a wide range of choices. We can
add orange peel or herbs. She is against of sweet mate because she says that sugar hides
the real flavour of the yerba.
Water to have mate should be between 70 and 80o C.
The best containers are those made of gourd and the worst are earthenware ones.
Her final advice is not to wet all the yerba in the container but only near the
straw.

6.2 Our "Gaucha" Lady of the "Mate"

This name given to Holy Mary is different from the rest. The "Mate" Virgin did
not stem, as many others, from an apparition or a miracle. She was born with the
purpose of showing the deep love Argentinian people feel towards "mate". This drink
that let's us share and spend good moments and celebrate friendship.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

These characteristics were the reason why a group of priest or and laymen from
Misiones supported the idea that Christian Religion Community well recognize her
under the name of "Nuestra Seora Gaucha del Mate" (Our "Gaucha" Lady of the
"Mate") as the Mercosur (Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay and Bolivia) Saint.
When Pope John Paul II visited Argentina he was given lot of different kinds of
"mate" containers, from plane gourds up to silver and golden containers. And he even
had the opportunity to sip "mate". After that he granted the apostolic blessing to her.
The new Virgin dressed in simple clothes, sitting next to the fire and brewing
"mate" reflects the culture of this region of America. Besides, people are very
affectionate towards this lovely and beautiful Virgin.

Prayer

"Madre, dulce paisanita


"Mother, sweet peasant
que tens los ojos fijos
who has her eyes fixed
en todos estos tus hijos
on all of us, your sons and daughters,
que han acudido a tu cita,
that have met you
oye el coro que musita
when we have been requested to.
sta sencilla oracin:
Listen to the choir that whispers
mranos con compasin
this simple prayer:
y mientras cebas tu mate
look at us with compassion
que nuestra alma se dilate
and while you brew your "mate"
en filial contemplacin."
make our souls get bigger
in filial contemplation."
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Nuestra Seora Gaucha del Mate,


Gualeguaych, Entre Ros

The image of "Nuestra Seora Gaucha del Mate"


was created by the painter Mara Ins Rosisky.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

6.3 Other Uses of Yerba Mate

Original Desserts
Another unusual use of "yerba mate" is its addition to sweet recipes. For
instance, there is an original sherbet of "yerba mate" flavour.
If you want to prepare this sherbet, make some syrup by adding eight spoonful
of sugar into two cups of water and cooking it for some minutes. Then infuse ten
spoonfuls of "yerba mate" and filter it. Finally, put the preparation into an ice-cream
machine or freezer. After a couple of hours it will be ready to be consumed.
There is also an ice-cream with "mate cocido" flavour which can be seen and
tasted in many Argentinian ice-cream shops. But, although people here are very fond of
sipping "mate", it is a flavour that not many of them dare to choose.
The "yerba mate" flavour is added to many others preparations; such is the case
of cakes and pies that have this flavour included in their creams and dough. But, as it
has been already said, their consumption is not popular yet.

Yerba mate liquor


Mara del Carmen Paz was given a prize in the contest Eat and drink in
Uruguay. She said she had always made liquors and had looked for those which were
not in the market. She learnt to make them when she was young. Currently it is a
familiar business in which her parents and daughters also participate.
She invented and patented the yerba mate liquor for people to have the
opportunity of having access to a good liquor at a good price. It is also a contribution to
their National Identity, because Uruguay does not have a typical drink characterizing
them in the worldwide market.
She tried to extract the essence from leaves of the plant of yerba mate, but all
the scent obtained was too strong and bitter, so she got the liquor from yerba mate
suitable for consumption.
Nowadays, the yerba mate liquor is sold in a shop in Montevideo and
downtown at the Tourist Information Centre. The liquor has already been ordered from
Germany, United States and also Italy.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Perfume
The yerba mate perfume was created by Fabiola Pittana, a young lady
from Misiones. The novel project came up from the idea of mixing the typical scents of
Misiones together, with the purpose of offering a different souvenir from Misiones to
foreign tourists.
She thought about doing something different from the characteristic
alfajor1 or mate. So, in that way it was created this new fragrance in which it can be
found the essences of Misiones rainforest plants and yerba mate, which was being in
the perfume industry for the first time.
The perfume is called Mision Es; its container has a 50 millilitres
capacity and resembles the famous Iguazu waterfalls.
To obtain this fragrance, they went to a place called El Soberbio, in
Misiones, where the aromatic yerba mate plants grow up as weed along streets. In a
handmade way, the took out the scents from the plant by using a still, then with the help
of a chemist they managed to get the final fragrance, whose prototype was made in
Misiones and produced in large scale in Buenos Aires.
Shortly after launching the perfume in the market, they were offered to
sell it in a supermarkets chain in Brazil and China. They are also working on the web
site, which will be promoting the product in five different languages.
At the moment, the yerba mate perfume is sold in a mall in Posadas
and can be used by women as well as men.

1- Two biscuits filled with caramel and covered with chocolate.


Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Interviewings

Interviewing Luis Godoy

The Mate Encuentro was born as a way of spending a day among friends and
people who love mate. Then, it became a popular festivity and people from the
provinces of Entre Ros and Buenos Aires and even from Uruguay began to take part in
this meeting.
Luis Godoy was the winner of the Mate Encuentro in 2002, 2003, 2004 and
participated in 2005 as part of the jury. This skilled brewer managed to brew the last
mate as frothy as the first one.
We interviewed him and he shared some of his secrets and knowledge with us.

When did you start to sip mate?


I started when I was a child, since I lived in a very humble home. I remembered
having my own mate kit which consisted of a kettle and a little metal container. I
sipped mate as a way of nourishment, as a replacement of milk.

How did you develop your technique?


I always say that brewing mate is like grilling our roast beef. The first time it
might turns out to be raw or burnt, but through practice, you improve your technique.

Which are the steps you follow when you prepare mate?
The first thing you should take into account is not boil the water; if you do it, the
water loses its oxygen. Then you should fill the container up to three fourths parts with
yerba mate. The following step is to put the container upside down, covering its
opening to make the smallest parts of yerba mate remain on the upper part of the
mate container. When you put the container in its upright position, take into account
to keep the biggest amount of yerba mate on one side of it. Then put a bit of water
into the emptier side and blocking the tip of the straw, introduce it there.
Finally, during the cebado you have to pour the water against the straw with
the purpose of brewing a lasting mate.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

How often is it convenient to renew the yerba mate?


I think that after having sipped a flask of water you should tatusear the mate
and sip another flask of water. But after that, it will obviously be necessary to renew the
yerba mate.

How must a mate be sipped?


The only thing you should not do is to move the straw when you are sipping the
mate, as is it were a gear lever.

What kind of container do you prefer?


The containers I like most are the gourds which have wide openings and large
capacity, because they let us keep aside the dry part of yerba mate, necessary to
tatusear the mate then. Besides, I prefer the alpaca straws because they do not
become overheat.

What kind of mate do you prefer? Bitter or sweet ones?


I consider myself a bitter mate lover. However, I have tasted sweet mate,
but I just dont like it.

Interviewing Mario Boari


When did you begin with this project?
Which proceces are carried out at El Patio del Mate?
Who are your main customers?

This company began in the 90s as a familiar project due to the difficult
economic situation we were facing at that moment. My children were grown up and
wanted to be part of this.
I have always been fond of manual work and business despite having an
intellectual profession.
Now, my family is not working in this activity any longer but we consider that it
still is a familiar project because the people who work here feel themselves as part of a
big family and the place is run in that way.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

It was a coincidence that in those times Gualeguaych became a touristy city; so


that the mate made for local compsumption ended up being one of the most required
souvenirs for tourists.
Our activity consists in treating the gourd until it is suitable for its use. In doing
so, the first thing we do is to make a deal with gourds producers from Chaco, Formosa,
Santiago del Estero and Tucumn. In these provinces people are very humble and have
plots of land, so we give them the seeds and assure them we are going to buy their
harvest. In this way we know how many gourds we will have for working the next year.
Depending on the number of gourds sometimes we have either to sell or buy
some of them.
Then we classify them according to quality, the gourds that are not going to be
used, are left aside. The chosen gourds are washed and a new classification is carried
out because after that some imperfections might appear. Then, another classification
takes place according to the preference of clients.
Some of the mates we sell are wrapped with different kinds of leather, some
have silver inlaid in them and others are just washed and polished.
Nowadays, in El Patio del Mate we just sell the mate, the process of
classification, washing and dying is carried out in another place, but under my
supervision.
We sell mates to the whole country and also to Germany, Canada, United
States and Arabic Countries.
We export about 35.000 gourds per year, which is not big amount. Foreign
buyers do not know too much about mate, so they are not able to discover the
difference between gourds and other containers.

Mario at Chaco Plantations.


Pictures provided by Mario Boari.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Comment

Comment about the article "Mate de por Medio" published in "El Federal"
magazine, N 8, 1st. July 2004, page 64.

This is the story of an argentinian actor from Baha Blanca. Eduardo Bernab, as
many others argentinians, suffered the economic crisis of the country which did not let
him develop his passion: the performance.
But, as art sprung out of him, he needed something to do, so he began to do
some carving, and the first thing that came to his mind was the "mate". He said that he
was a "mate" addict and he could not to avoid having a "mate" near him.
The process starts in Formosa where he buys the special gourds. These gourds
have to been chosen carefully, according to the thickness of the shell. Some people dye
the "mates", but he does not. He prefers the original colour of the gourds.
As he was born in the country, the carved pictures are about horses, bull's heads,
and barbed wire fence, among others.
This activity began to fill up his free time as well as his pockets. Unexpectedly,
his hobby became his job.
We can think that this "mates" are bought by tourist but in fact , the ones who
want to buy "mates" like these, are the same argentinians. He said that he has made
"mates" for Alejandro Romay, Mirtha Legrand, Susana Gimnez, Marcelo Tinelli,
Gerardo Sofovich and even Mxima Zorreguieta.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Conclusion

Mate is one of the oldest live customs among Argentineans who have it as a
companion either when they work, study or just rest. Because of that, it is unusual to
share ones mate with every person; only people we appreciate will be invited to sip
mate with us because it is symbolism of friendship.
Mate is a complex ritual with a lot of details involved; it is not just sipping it;
one should take into account the temperature of water, how to prepare it, how to brew it,
and even how to share it. Those are some of the reasons why we can say that there is a
whole world of feelings, history, meanings and techniques hidden in the act of sharing a
round of mates.
Mate: the Argentinian custom. Butelli - Esteve Schnfeld Tommasi.

Bibliography

Books:

o Villanueva, Amaro. "El Mate: El Arte de Cebar". Libros del Mirasol, Buenos
Aires, 1962.
o Scutell, Francisco. "El Mate: Bebida Nacional Argentina". Plus Ultra, Buenos
Aires, 1989.

Magazine's articles:

o Stero, Ins. "Mates: Nota II". "El Federal", 6th. January 2005. Pages: 79-80.
o Stero, Ins. "Mates: Nota III". "El Federal", 13th January 2005. Pages: 78-80.
o Arroyo, Barbara. "La Dama de Mate". "El Federal", 1st. September 2005.
Pages: 76-78.
o Gamili, Gisella "Una Pasin Llamada Mate". "Argentime: The Argentine
Review 1998. Pages: 58-63.
o Torres, Ezequiel. "Mate al Plato" "Rumbos", 18th. June 2006. Pages: 42-43.
o Parra, Patricia A. (Direccin de Industria Alimentaria). "Yerba Mate",
"Alimentos Argentinos", April 2006. Pages: 25-29.

Internet's Sources:

o www.mundomatero.com
o www.guadelchaco.com.ar
o www.soygaucho.com
o www.misiondemara.com.ar
o www.lanacin.com
o www.d-sur.net

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