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Fundamentals of Fit #1
By Linda Lee
Shoulder Fitting is Critical!
Shoulder seams on a garment
should fit the width and slope of
your shoulders. The fit of the
shoulder seams influences the fit of
an entire garment, improves the
overall drape, and many times
solves other fitting problems.
L-SQUARE
STRAIGHT EDGE
with GRID
FRENCH CURVE
Measure Your Shoulders
Start by determining the correct
length of your shoulder and adjust
the pattern, making it narrower or
wider, if necessary.
For example:
Your shoulder length = 5
Pattern width = 5 1/2
A. Natural shoulders
B. With shoulder pad
C. Natural shoulders
pinned to show the
amount of slope to
adjust on the pattern
Sloping Shoulders
Trace the original armscye Both the front and back seams are
of the front and back sloped the same degree and amount.
pattern pieces.
Plaza Jacket
Tip - Remove the strip of pattern
How to Balance the Shoulders tissue from the front shoulder line
and re-tape to the back shoulder.
Trio Top
Adjustment for Extended Shoulder Lines (Narrow)
Draw a horizontal line
extending from just below
the arm opening to a vertical
line extending to the
shoulder seam (back and ADJUSTMENT
POINT
front).
Trio T-shirt
Rounded Back Adjustment
Telltale wrinkles
How to Adjust for a Rounded Back
Halfway down the armscye on
the seamline, draw a horizontal
line perpendicular to the center
back.
By Linda Lee