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BY Johannes Kahl, Geert Jan van der Burgt, Daniel Kusche,

Susanne Bügel, Nicolaas Busscher, Ewelina Hallmann, Ursula Kretzschmar,


Angelika Ploeger, Ewa Rembialkowska, and Machteld Huber

Better regulatory guidelines, improved testing methods,


and additional research into product quality criteria are needed
to further develop the European organic food market.

T
he market for organic foods in 1999; Schmid et al., 2006). While it more and more products have
Europe is growing at a steady is not disputed that the production become complex, multi-step proc-
pace (Hamm et al., 2004; process of organic foodstuffs meets essed products. They are the
Willer and Yussefi, 2006; process-oriented quality expecta- so-called convenience products like
Hughner et al., 2007; Figure 1). In tions (Kretzschmar et al., 2007), deep-frozen pizza or ready-to-eat
Europe, Germany is the largest mar- product-oriented quality claims of items such as breakfast cereal and
ket for organics, followed by France, organic food are under discussion soup. In the organic movement, it is
the United Kingdom, and Italy (Alföldi et al., 1998; Siderer et al., supposed that the impact of intensive
(Figure 2). 2005; Dangour et al., 2009a, b; processing, which is involved in the
Increasingly, consumers are Lairon, 2009). production of the aforementioned
deciding in favor of organic produce Organic food and its process- and foodstuffs, might threaten product
because they believe it is naturally product-related aspects are quality (Woodward and Meier-
produced (e.g., minimally proc- described in the guidelines of the Ploeger, 1999). The gap between
essed), safe, and healthy and that it International Federation of Organic consumer expectations and how reg-
contributes to a form of production Agricultural Movements (IFOAM, ulations may fulfill them underlines
that is sustainable for the environ- 2006) and in the European regula- the importance of this topic (Beck et
ment and society (Torjusen et al., tion on organic production and al., 2006; Schmid et al., 2006;
2004; Siderer et al., 2005; Midmore labeling of organic products Niggli and Leifert, 2007).
et al., 2006). These consumer (European Commission No. If consumers are supposed to pay
expectations can be divided into two 834/2007). The European for a “plus” in organic product qual-
elements: “process-quality,” which Commission (EC) regulations on ity, it is a challenge to first define and
considers the way a product is pro- organic production focus on practi- second to prove this “plus.” With this
duced and processed and how it cal agronomy but are very limited in article, it is our aim to identify
affects the environment, and “prod- relation to processing. Only limited potential food claims, to verify
uct quality,” which consists of food additives or processing agents whether they can be guaranteed by
measurable properties of the food are allowed but no recommendations the EC organic regulation, and to
itself (Alföldi et al., 1998; for processing techniques are given. discuss possible criteria for testing
Woodward and Meier-Ploeger, In the developing organic market, their evidence. A second aim is to
pg 38 03.10 • www.ift.org
Healthful options for an organic breakfast.

Photos in this feature are courtesy of Directorate General for Agriculture and Rural Development of the European Commission

identify research needs in organic people” (IFOAM, 2006). The aim is 834/2007, Article 3,b). The term
food quality. to “produce sufficient quantities of “vital” may describe a possible qual-
high-quality food, fiber, and other ity aspect, but neither definitions nor
Organic Food Quality Definitions products” (IFOAM, 2006; Halberg limitations are reported. In the EC
We focus first on the impact of et al., 2006; Niggli and Leifert, regulation No. 834/2007, organic
organic production on organic food 2007). In section 6.3 of the guide- production is defined as “a produc-
product quality; process-related lines, the general principles for tion method in line with the
quality will be examined when regulating processing methods are preference of certain consumers for
research on farm management is dis- defined in this way: “Organic food is products produced using natural
cussed. Further, our focus is on processed by biological, mechanical substances and processes” (EC No.
nutrient content and not on the con- and physical methods in a way that 834/2007, (1)), but the term “natu-
tent of undesired substances, e.g., maintains the vital quality of each ral” is not defined in this regulation.
residues or mycotoxins. A wide ingredient and the finished product” Furthermore, the expected impact
range of original papers, review arti- (IFOAM, 2006). of the agricultural production proc-
cles, and research studies document In the existing regulations, ess on the food is not described.
that the system of farm management organic quality is defined as food Processing methods, which are
and food production (regulated in production based on organic stand- allowed by the regulation, should
the EC No. 834/2007) results in a ards; organics are processed without “guarantee that the organic integrity
high level of biodiversity (McNeely the use of a genetically modified and vital qualities of the product are
and Scherr, 2001; Lakner, 2004), organism (GMO) and ionic radia- maintained through all stages of the
the preservation of natural resources tion, with limited use of additives production chain” (EC No.
(Köpke et al., 2005), and the appli- and processing aids, and without the 834/2007, (19)). Here, the terms
cation of high animal welfare use of chemical processing tech- “organic integrity” and “vital quali-
standards (Rymer et al., 2006). niques (like modified starch, fat ties” are not further defined or
The IFOAM guidelines define hydrolyses, etc.). These guidelines described. In the objectives and prin-
the purpose of the organic produc- do not define the general term “qual- ciples for organic production, the
tion method, which is “to optimize ity” but they define the goal to aim is defined as “producing prod-
the health and productivity of … produce high quality (EC No. ucts of high quality” (Article 3,b). »»
03.10 • www.ift.org 39 pg
Furthermore, the food responds “to are also allowed to be applied must be extracted from the EC
consumer demand for goods pro- within EC No. 834/2007. organic regulation, the IFOAM
duced by the use of processes that In EC No. 834/2007, organic guidelines, marketing strategies of
do not harm ... human health” food is defined by referring to the the involved companies, consumer
(Article 3,c). This seems to be con- EC food regulation No. 178/2002. studies, and research findings
nected to food safety aspects, and In this regulation, food is defined as (Kerbage et al., 2006; van de
we wonder why it is mentioned “any substance or product, whether Vijver, 2007).
especially for organic production. processed, partially processed, or Based on the existing guidelines
The specific principles that are unprocessed, intended to be or rea- and consumer expectations on
applied to the processing of organic sonably expected to be ingested by organic products, we hypothesize
food exclude substances and humans” including “drink, chewing that there is a need for a clear defi-

If consumers are supposed to pay for a ‘plus’ in organic product quality,


it is a challenge to first define and second to prove this ‘plus.’

processing methods “that might be gum, and any substances, including nition and strategy that can
misleading regarding the true water, intentionally incorporated complement the process-oriented
nature of the product” (Article 6,c). into the food during its manufac- regulations in order to meet con-
In addition, it is specified that the ture, preparation, or treatment” sumers’ needs and expectations of
processing should be done with (EC No. 178/2002, Article 2). organic food as high quality and
care (Article 6,d). With the exclu- Quality is defined as “the totality of vital (Cooper et al., 2007; Niggli
sion of two processing methods features and characteristics of a and Leifert, 2007).
(GMO, ionizing radiation) and sev- product or service that bear on its
eral food additives (Annex VIII of ability to satisfy stated or implied Possible Organic Food Claims
the regulation No. 889/2008), it needs” (ISO 9000, 2005). To sum- In general, nutrition and health
seems that all other processing marize the findings, there is no claims made on food and, there-
technologies available and applied specific definition of organic food. fore, also including organic food,
in the market are not regulated, As there is no specific quality defi- are regulated within EC No.
and, as the terms “true nature” as nition or concept for organic food, 1924/2006. Evidence-based studies
well as “care” are not defined, they the stated or implied definition have to be carried out before health
Figure 1. Size of the European market for organic food and drink. From Research Institute for Organic Agriculture (FiBL)
promotion can start. The studies
can apply methods to measure food
ingredients (nutrients, health-
20,000
related compounds) and energy.
18,000 The health claim regulation refers
17,901 to EC No. 90/496. Here, food
16,000 nutrients are listed that may be
SALES IN EUROS (millions)

15,901 declared on the nutrition label


14,000 along with their recommended
14,095 daily allowances (RDA) as well as
12,000
12,789 what a “significant amount” means
10,000 (nutrition claims may be applied
only when “significant amounts” are
8,000 present in the advertised food). Up
until now, few studies have
6,000 reported on this evidence for
organic food products.
4,000
A number of studies have
2,000 looked at the content of primary
and secondary metabolites in dif-
0 ferent production systems, e.g.,
2005 2006 2007 2008* organic and conventional systems.
Some of the older studies have been
YEARS reviewed in Woese et al. (1997),
*Estimate
Worthington et al. (2001), Heaton
pg 40 03.10 • www.ift.org
A farmer harvests organic green beans.

(2001), and Bourn and Prescott


(2002). The main conclusion from
these reviews is that organic pro-
duce has higher dry matter, lower
levels of nitrate, and lower pesti-
cide residues. Regarding vitamins,
the reviewers conclude that there
are trends toward higher vita-
min C content in organic produce,
while data on mineral content
were inconclusive. Since then,
approximately 200 papers concern-
ing nutritive content of organic
vs conventionally produced foods
have been published, and it is evi-
dent that interest in this field has
increased dramatically over the
years. In plants, the focus over the
past 10 years has been on the con-
tent of vitamin C, carotenoids,
and phenolic compounds. Recent
reviews, using different criteria
for including or excluding studies,
report different outcomes and give
rise to scientific debate (Winter
and Davis, 2006; Rembiałkowska, Agricultural product properties application are not able to distin-
2007; Benbrook et al., 2008; are primarily constituted in the guish (with certainty) between
Dangour et al., 2009a, b; Lairon, field. Given a cultivar of a certain conventional and organic agricul-
2009). More recently, the focus crop, the properties of the product ture (here we use the term organic
has been on counting healthy fatty at the end of the cultivation are the as defined by EC No. 834/2007). If
acids in milk from animal prod- resulting effect of the environ- differences in process quality are
ucts (Butler et al., 2008, 2009). ment—in its broadest sense. For not guaranteed, the resulting prod-
animal production, this is essen- uct quality will very likely show an
Potential and Limits tially the same, although more overlap between conventional and
From EC No. 834/2007, we con- complex. Research has shown that organic products. A market survey
clude there is no focus on clearly many product properties are, in might eventually result in statisti-
defined product quality aspects or order of importance, an overall cally proven differences between
criteria that can be used for testing result of the following: 1) variety of organic and conventionally pro-
claims as discussed in this paper. the plant; 2) year/weather/season; duced foodstuffs but not in
The regulation gives the basis for and 3) soil and agronomy (Heaton, guaranteed differences. Although
sustainable production and, with 2001; Bahar et al., 2008; when a defined field trial will show
limitations in processing, also the Benbrook, 2008; Roose et al., significant differences between,
basis for authentic foodstuffs. 2009). Since variety, year, and soil e.g., plant products grown organi-
However, the regulation, as it is at are not part of the organic regula- cally and conventionally, the
the moment, cannot guarantee a tions, agronomy alone—being a difference would be within the
consistent quality, nor premium process-oriented regulation— range of variation when taking
and “vital” quality, meaning the might not cause differences in the other locations, varieties, etc., into
“plus” of these products. Although level of single food constituents. In account.
it is difficult to come to a final guar- many agronomic practices, conven- Based on results from control-
antee of these qualities, the tional and organic systems do not led trials using best agricultural
challenge is to refine the definitions differ that much. For example, the practices (Mäder et al., 2002;
of these terms as potential food type of fertilizers used in conven- Bloksma et al., 2007), we conclude
claims in a way that allows for the tional and organic farming is only that organic products can potentially
best choice of production method partly different (manures are also be distinguished from conventional
along with scientific verification, used in conventional farming), and products. The question as to
using measurements. quantified parameters on nitrogen whether observed differences
03.10 • www.ift.org 41 pg
between organic and conventional the determination of the levels and/ (EC No. 1924/2006). However,
products can or cannot be or limits. Therefore, we suggest the there is a growing insight that the
addressed as a “plus” for organic is following actions to overcome the presence of single substances may not
not yet answered and depends on problems in organic food quality be the only criterion. For some sub-
the selected claim. We conclude determination: stances, research has shown that it
that the regulations—with the • Studies comparing different makes a difference if a substance is
process-oriented approach—must production methods according to present in a food product or taken
be more precise so that those prac- the potential claim; in as a food supplement (Omenn et
tices, processes, and technologies • Definition of the terms within al., 1996; Lippman et al., 2008).
are more strictly excluded, ensur- EC No. 834/2007 which can be Moreover, the health effect of single
ing that they do not lead to a used as potential food claims and food constituents, like secondary
potential guaranteed claim. application and/or development of plant compounds, is controversially
concepts for their scientific discussed (Heinonen and Albanes,
Possible Research Actions description; 1994; Omenn et al., 1996;
From these findings, there are • Tests, development, and vali- Brambilla, et al., 2008). Although a
three critical steps that need to be dation of methods for the positive health effect against cancer
clarified in order to establish guar- determination of the food aspects/ was proposed for lycopene in toma-
anteed organic food claims. First, criteria important for the defined toes (Rao and Agarwal, 2000),
the process regulations describe food claims; and recent studies show that this com-
several production goals as moving • Revision of EC No. 834/2007 pound seems not to be responsible
toward a “plus” in organic food in order to exclude production for the effect; instead, tomatoes as a
without a clear definition of the methods that do not allow extras whole (or other compounds) are
claims. Second, the defined goals, (the “plus”) in the organically pro- responsible (Gitenay et al.,
which aim to form a basis for these duced food. 2007a, b). This was also shown for
potential claims of organic food, are beta-carotene in carrots (Heinonen
not fully embedded in the existing Quality Concepts and Determination and Albanes, 1994; Omenn et al.,
food concepts (e.g., terms like Food quality is generally related to 1996) and selenium in vegetables
“integer,” “vital,” etc.). Third, the the presence of desired and/or (Lippman et al., 2008). In other
potential methods needed in order healthy constituents and the words, the context and the food
to make claims are not available or absence of harmful components and product as a whole is relevant, not
tested in such a way that allows for microbial and fungal impurities just the presence and consumption
of a single substance. Therefore,
Figure 2. Leading markets in organic food sales. From Research Institute for Organic Agriculture (FiBL)
representatives from the organic
sector support the view which sug-
gests that there is a different
United States 15,582 structure and order and/or organi-
zation in organic products (Verhoog
Germany 5,850 et al., 2007; Kusche et al., 2009).
So far, a consistent analytical
France 2,591 method to differentiate the prod-
United Kingdom 2,494 ucts from different cultivation
systems is nonexistent (Siderer et
Italy 1,970 al., 2005). However, methods
developed to determine the level of
Canada 1,392 order and/or organization of prod-
Switzerland
ucts are occasionally able to
905
differentiate between defined food
Austria 810 samples from organic and conven-
tional origin (Turinek et al., 2009).
Denmark 724 These new methods are not yet
fully validated and their principles
Sweden 623 are still under investigation
(Busscher et al., 2009).
0 5,000 10,000 15,000 20,000 From this, we conclude that a
SALES IN EUROS (millions) quality assessment restricted to
single substances is not sufficient.
pg 42 03.10 • www.ift.org
Organic lettuce and vegetables.

Methods are needed that determine


product quality at higher levels of
integration (e.g., sensory analysis,
biocrystallization, or others).
Concepts of food quality are needed
that are related to these higher lev-
els. These concepts should be
connected to the principles of
organic farming within a systems
approach and should allow for veri-
fication (Baars and Baars, 2007).
According to Siderer et al.
(2005), scientifically testable con-
cepts are necessary to frame new
assessment methods. Streiner and
Norman (2001) presented a valida-
tion route for new concepts and
new parameters, which can be used
for framing the concepts of food
quality. The organic movement
does not yet have consensus about a
suitable concept for product quality
evaluation although many concepts
have been introduced (Kahl et al., find parameters in the harvested potential differences between con-
2009). Most of the concepts pro- product to assess product quality ventional and organic farming in
pose an extension of the existing (claims), but until now, has been relation to cultivation measure-
quality concepts, which means restricted to plant products ments and not only the actual
from single substance measurement (Bloksma et al., 2007). It is sug- average product quality in the
and evaluation toward evaluating gested that it should now be market.
the product as a whole. One of developed further so that it can be Research should generate two
these concepts was developed used for processed organic food. types of output: criteria/parame-
(Bloksma et al., 2007) to integrate ters (to be included in the quality
quality aspects as potential food Research Requirements assessment as potential food claims)
claims, conceptual theories, and To explore the area of product and quality concepts (for embed-
methods to test the hypothesis. quality further, research should be ding terms like “vitality” or
This “Inner Quality” concept is intensified. This research must “integrity”).
based on the plant physiological meet the actions to overcome the
processes during “growth,” the veg- existing problems, as mentioned Exploring Farm Management
etative phase of plant development, above. According to the statement For testing the impact of farm man-
and “differentiation,” the generative that organic food production is “an agement, field trials are necessary
phase, and their integration overall system of farm management to generate datasets to validate
(Bloksma et al., 2007), and the and food production” (EC No. selected variables. Two different
concept has been studied in multi- 834/2007 (1)), research approaches approaches should be applied: fac-
factorial trials (Bloksma et al., should include the whole produc- torial field experiments and farm
2001, 2004; Northolt et al., 2004. tion chain, from field to fork. To system research. To understand the
It connects to the “growth-differen- avoid unnecessary research, at first mechanisms that cause the differ-
tiation-balance-hypothesis” the most critical and relevant steps ences in product quality, factorial
(GDBH) of plant physiologists. in the food chain must be identi- trials (at field level) are essential. As
According to the GDBH, growth is fied, where the potential food crop variety is a very important
necessary for primary metabolism claims are generated or diminished. variable with a potential major
and differentiation for secondary The potential claims must be influence on product quality param-
metabolism. This concept is being defined and embedded in quality eters, the choice of cultivars should
used primarily by farmers to models/concepts, and methods be studied. In scientific literature,
improve their product quality by must be adapted or developed for using the same cultivar in compar-
taking adequate agronomic meas- measuring specific criteria. ing field trials is described as the
ures. Secondly, it is being applied to Initially, studies should explore the “golden” standard (Harker, 2004),
03.10 • www.ift.org 43 pg
but it is also argued that organic integrated once they are clearly Possible research tasks transport, and food processing
agriculture needs specific culti- defined. include reviews on the existing are the most important steps
vars with suitable root systems technologies regarding their for optimization. Finally, effect
to obtain optimal results Processing Methodologies Needed potential for guaranteeing an studies on product consump-
(Lammerts van Bueren et al., The focus of future research organic claim. New technolo- tion of different qualities in
2002; Przystalski et al., 2008). activities on organic food qual- gies, e.g., nanotechnology, animals and humans is inevita-
Equivalent to the search for the ity should also be on the should be evaluated in this way. ble if we are to undertake an
most critical point in the chain processing of the food. Research methods should ultimate test of consumer
(from field to fork), key factors Carefully processed food is an include quality analyses of criti- expectations. FT
at farm or field level should be expectation of the consumer as cal control points at an industry
identified (de Wit and de Vries, well as a principle set out in EC level, followed by pilot plant Johannes Kahl, Dr., a Member of IFT, is Senior
2008; Husted and Holst- No. 834/2007. Here, technolo- studies on the critical steps Researcher, Dept. of Organic Food Quality
Laursen, 2009). This process of gies have a very high impact on involved. Furthermore, and Food Culture, Univ. of Kassel,
identification is needed to different quality aspects selected technologies should Nordbahnhofsstr. 1a, D-37213
understand and interpret differ- (Kretzschmar and Schmid, evaluate how they fulfill “care- Witzenhausen, Germany
ences between systems for 2006; Lanzon et al., 2009). ful processing” as mentioned in (kahl@uni-kassel.de). Geert Jan van der
selected plant metabolites based Furthermore, processing is not EC No. 834/2007 or “minimal Burgt is Researcher, Louis Bolk Inst.,
on knowledge of the fundamen- well defined in EC No. processing” as suggested by the Hoofdstraat 24, NL-3972 LA Driebergen, The
tal biochemical pathways. 834/2007 (Kretzschmar et al., market (Kretzschmar et al., Netherlands (g.vanderburgt@louisbolk.nl).
Preferably, the parameters to be 2007). Sustainable farming 2007). Life cycle assessments Daniel Kusche is Researcher, Dept. for
tested must be selected from systems occur in practice, but should be a standard criterion Biodynamic Agriculture, Univ. of Kassel
the list of potential food claims, there are no regulations regard- for the evaluation of processing (daniel.kusche@uni-kassel.de). Susanne
but the quality aspects as ing sustainable processing or techniques. A standardized Bügel, Ph.D., is Assoc. Professor, Dept. of
described also need to be packaging. method for the evaluation of Human Nutrition and Centre for Advanced
careful processing methods Food Studies, Faculty of Life Science, Univ. of
should be established. Copenhagen, Denmark, Rolighedsvej 30,
DK-1958 Frederiksberg (shb@life.ku.dk).
Implications Moving Forward Nicolaas Busscher, Dr., is Senior Researcher,
Several studies indicate a poten- Dept. of Organic Food Quality and Food
tial difference between Culture, Univ. of Kassel (busscher@
products from organic and con- uni-kassel.de). Ewelina Hallmann, Dr., is
ventional farming with Warsaw Univ. of Life Sciences,
(Rembiałkowska, 2007; Nowousrynowska 159 c, 02-787 Warsaw,
Benbrook et al., 2008; Lairon, Poland (ewelina_hallmann@sggw.pl).
2009). Neither organic stan- Ursula Kretzschmar is Head of the Dept. Food
dards (e.g., IFOAM) nor Quality, Safety and Processing, Research
regulations (e.g., EC No. Institute of Organic Agriculture (FiBL),
834/2007) can guarantee a Ackerstrasse, 5070 Frick, Switzerland,
“plus” in nutritional and health (ursula.kretzschmar@fibl.org). Angelika
benefits if farming practices and Ploeger, Dr. agr,. Dr. h.c. mult., is Head of the
processing technologies are not Dept. of Organic Food Quality and Food
strict enough (Dangour et al., Culture, Univ. of Kassel (a.ploeger@uni-kas-
2009a, b). Additional potential sel.de). Ewa Rembialkowska, is Professor,
claims on organic food, as men- Warsaw Univ. of Life Sciences (ewa_rembi-
tioned in the standards and alkowska@sggw.pl). Machteld Huber, MD, is
regulations (e.g., true nature, Senior Researcher, Louis Bolk Inst.
careful processing, organic (m.huber@louisbolk.nl).
integrity, etc.) need to be
defined in relation to food qual- The authors of this article are members of
ity concepts and methods for the International Research Association for
determination. Future research Organic Food Quality and Health (FQH), an
should focus on these tasks. organization that aims to investigate and
Furthermore, identification and develop a scientific basis for organic food
evaluation of weak and critical quality as well as novel methods to examine
points in the whole food chain food quality and to study the influence of
are necessary, whereby storage, organic food on human health.

pg 44 03.10 • www.ift.org
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