USTER HVI Testing in the

Cotton Supply Chain

Joe Yankey

Since 2002: New Organization

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USTER Fiber Testing Products in

the Cotton Supply Chain

For gin
process fiber yarn yarn ...for fabric
controlling... testing... testing... clearing ... inspection !

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 Cotton Production Areas
In over 50 countries worldwide:
Million Metric Tons 2002 2003 2004* 2005*
China 4.916 4.870 6.30 6.19

U.S.A. 3.747 3.975 4.63 3.80

India 2.312 3.009 3.23 2.97

Pakistan 1.736 1.734 2.07 1.90

Brazil 0.848 1.273 1.30 1.42

Uzbekistan 1.022 0.893 1.07 0.99

Others 4.718 4.858 5.53 5.42
TOTAL 19.298 20.610 24.14 22.69
* Projected
Source: The Outlook For Cotton Supply in 2004/ 05,
ICAC International Cotton Advisory Committee, November 2004

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Cotton Production Areas (%)

www.icac.org
2004 Distribution of
5-yr. Worldwide Cotton Worldwide Cotton
Production
Production Estimates:
(million metric tons)
23% 27%
2001 21.473
2002 19.298 4%
19%
2003 Est. 20.610 5% 13%
9%
2004 Proj. 24.14 China USA
2005 Proj. 22.69 India Pakistan
Brazil Uzbekistan
Others

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Worldwide Cotton Quality

Fiber Property Ranges
(excluding Pima)
Micronaire 2.7 - 5.9

Length 15/16 - 1 3/8 (32s)

0.94 - 1.37 (inch)
23.8 - 34.9 (mm)

Strength 23.0 - 35.5 HVI g/tex

Source: Cotton Varieties by Origin, Bremen Cotton Exchange

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 USTER HVI
Installations Worldwide 2004

Europe
16%
NAFTA
Asia &
23% Australia
39%
Africa &
Middle East
S.America 13%
9%

Total ~ 1580 units in 74 countries

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USTER HVI Installations- Turkey

USTER HVI SPECTRUM 40 units (30%)

USTER HVI 900 SA 90 units (70%)
Total USTER HVI Instruments: 130 units

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Cotton Quality Measurements

RESEARCH Industry

Institutes Machinery Gins Textile

Manufacturers Mills

Breeding Classing
Programs Laboratories

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 Cotton Quality Measurements
Industry
GINS CLASSING TEXTILE
LABORATORIES MILLS

On-Line Procurement
Process Control Warehousing

Warehousing
On-Line Classing:
Color, Leaf Marketing
Mix
Selection
Off-Line Classing:
Micronaire, Off-line
Length, Strength Process Control

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Manual Cotton Classing

Based on:
Grade: Visual classification of color and
trash content
Staple: Manual determination of fiber
length

Disadvantage: Highly dependent on human

(= highly variable) Cotton Classer
Disadvantage: No information on strength,
uniformity, micronaire,

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Manual Cotton Classification

Edgar Degas: Portraits in a New Orleans Cotton Office

Office, 1873
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USTER HVI Cotton Classification
100% HVI test results: Micronaire, UHML,
Uniformity, Strength, and color (Rd, +b)
Short Fiber Index, a direct measurement from
HVI fiber length distribution
Leaf Grade is the only quality parameter still
assigned by a USDA Cotton Classer

Advantage:
Improved Accuracy of Cotton Classification
Provides common languagein international
cotton transactions

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USTER
USTER HVI Cotton Classification

USDA since 1991: 100% USTER HVI

Cotton Classification

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USTER
USTER HVI Cotton Classification
12 USDA Classing Offices throughout the
Cotton Belt; total of 230 USTER HVI units

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 USTER
USTER HVI Cotton Classing:
Over 300 units worldwide
# of
Classing Organization Ownership
HVI installations
USDA (USA) 230 Government

China 23 Government

Uzbekistan 35 Government

Brazil (BOLSA) 6 Private

Brazil (SGS) 5 Private

Australia 20 Private

India (Maharastra) 5 Government

Zimbabwe 4 Private

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Cotton Quality Measurements

Applied
GINS CLASSING TEXTILE
LABORATORIES MILLS

On-Line Procurement
Process Control Warehousing

Warehousing
On-Line Classing:
Color, Leaf Marketing
Mix
Selection
Off-Line Classing:
Micronaire, Off-line
Length, Strength Process Control

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USTER HVI Textile Mill Applications

Results Affecting Your Bottom Line

Standard Cotton Classification worldwide

Common language for the seller and buyer
of cotton
Verifies cotton quality and ensures the
buyer receives what they paid for
Cotton warehousing based fiber quality
Uniform and optimized lay-downs ensures
uniform spinning performance and desired
end quality of yarn

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USTER HVI Application Example

Fabric Barr

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USTER HVI Application Example

Causes of Fabric Barr %Contribution

Raw Material Variation (Fiber) 70%

Yarn Count Variation 10%

Yarn Twist Variation 10%
Yarn Hairiness Variation 10%

? Variation in raw material (cotton lay-downs) is

the major cause of fabric barr

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Cotton Fiber Development

closed boll

open boll

Dead Immature Normal

Fiber Fiber Fiber

In 16-18 days, the fibers grow in their perimeter

(diameter) and length
For the next 22-50 days, cellulose is deposited
inside the hollow fibers
When the deposit of cellulose stops, the boll dries
up and cracks open

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USTER HVI Application Example
Fabric Barr: Acceptable variation of Micronaire
between bales within 1 lay-down:
Micronaire
Recommended CV < 10%
4.7
4.6 Avg. 4.1 CV 17.7%
4.5
4.4
4.3
4.2
4.0
3.9
3.8
3.7
3.6
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Bale Number

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USTER HVI Application Example

Fabric Barr: Acceptable change in average Micronaire
From lay-down to lay-down
Micronaire
4.5
Maximum 0.1
4.4

4.3

4.2

4.1

4.0

3.9

3.8
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Lay-down number

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USTER HVI Application Example

LOT #7 Raw Material
30.0% Control
25.0%
20.0% Single lot = 100
15.0%
10.0%
bales = 100%
5.0%
0.0% Micronaire
Distribution =
3.3

3.5

3.7

3.9

4.1

4.3

4.5

4.7

4.9

5.1

5.3

5.5

5.7

Micronaire
normal

LOT #7

50.0%

40.0%

30.0%

20.0% Maturity
10.0%
Distribution =
0.0%
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 normal
Maturity

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USTER HVI Application Example
LOT #1 Raw Material
20.0% Control
15.0%
Single lot = 100
10.0%
bales = 100%
5.0%

0.0% Micronaire
Distribution =
4.1
3.3

3.5

3.7

3.9

4.3

4.5

4.7

4.9

5.1

5.3

5.5

5.7
Micronaire
Outlier

LOT #1

40.0%
35.0%
30.0%
25.0%
20.0%
15.0% Maturity
10.0%
5.0% Distribution =
0.0%
82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 Skewed
Maturity

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USTER HVI Application Example

Fabric Barr Prevention:
ALL LOTs

14%
12%
10%
2% Immature
8%
= BAD
6%
5% Mature
4% = GOOD
2%
0%
3.5

3.7

4.1

4.3

4.7

4.9

5.3

5.5
3.3

3.9

4.5

5.1

5.7

Micronaire

Use new Maturity Index to detect outliers!

Not all bales with a Micronaire below 4.0 are
immature fibers
Not all bales with a Micronaire between 4.0 and
4.4 are mature fibers
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USTER HVI Application Example

Fabric Barr Prevention:

Do not exceed a change in average Micronaire

from mix to mix more than +/- 0.1 Micronaire
Maintain low variation of Micronaire within mix
(CV below 10%)
Do not place groups of bales with same
Micronaire side by side in lay-down
Additional Maturity Index information helps
eliminate outlier bales in the lay-down

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 USTER HVI
Unique Algorithms
Additional customer value provided by
unique algorithms:
Expected waste levels indicated by the
amount of short fibers (SFI Short Fiber
Index) in the cotton bale
SFI also indicates how aggressive the
cotton was ginned
Micronaire alone does not prevent fabric
barr if cottons from different growth
areas are used
Maturity Index allows for better
evaluation of such cottons

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USTER HVI
Patented Moisture Probe

Moisture content of cotton at the time of testing

influences test results
Essential for data comparison with international
standards
Allows reducing standard conditioning times
considerably
Increases sample turnaround time in the
laboratory

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USTER HVI
Patented Xenon Flash Colorimeter

HVI color = an essential criteria

in the cotton purchasing process
Improves accuracy and precision
of HVI color measurement
Reduces maintenance and
calibration during cotton season to
a minimum

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USTER HVI
Test results
Test results within internationally accepted ASTM
standard tolerances for accuracy and precision

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USTER HVI
The Cotton Classification System
Patented Moisture Probe
Patented Xenon Flash
Colorimeter
Improved module
integration:
Nep Module
UV Module

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USTER HVI
Product Illustration

Standard Measurements include:

Length (UHML), Uniformity (UI), Short Fiber Index (SFI),
Strength, Elongation, Micronaire, Maturity Index, Color (Rd, +b,
Color Grade), Trash (%Area, Count, Leaf Grade), Spinning
Consistency Index (SCI), Moisture Content
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 USTER FIBER TESTING

Web site information:

www.uster.com

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