Double Air Layering Polyethylene

HELPFUL HINTS
Service & Installation

Illustrates rope technique.

Photos Courtesy: Paul and Cheryl Montgomery,

Montgomery Landscape, Lexington, Missouri

1. Make sure all rough edges are taped to prevent tearing of poly
and extrusions are in place.

2. Roll out first roll of poly. Gather poly and tie rope at approximately 3. Once ropes are in place, poly can be pulled over slowly, be
24¢ intervals. The end of the rope can be stuck thru a tennis ball to careful to not let it snag. Once in place, lock into Polylock® in a few
enable the rope to be thrown over the bows. places on all four sides. Make sure poly is square and even.

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 Double Air Layering Polyethylene
HELPFUL HINTS
Photos Courtesy: Paul and Cheryl Montgomery, Montgomery Landscape, Lexington, Missouri

Service & Installation

4. Proceed with second layer in same manner, making sure all sides 5. Once both layers are locked in, install inflation fan and inflate. Trim
are pulled down tight, and lock into Polylock®. off excess poly. Ideal space between layers is 6 to 12 inches.

Photo Courtesy: Peterson Brothers Greenhouses,

San Antonio, Texas

6. By using homemade cage, workers lift roll to ridge height, tie each corner of the poly with rope and pull the length of the house. Workers can
either walk in the gutters or on the ground. The poly is then unfolded and locked into place in 4 to 6 places, until the second layer can be
pulled. Make sure poly is square, pull tight and lock into Polylock® and trim off excess. (Various widths of poly determine fold option).

Above Illustrates Typical Installation - Application May Vary.

NOTE: Various poly manufacturers have specifically-recommended installation

procedures. Please refer to the instructions packed in the factory cartons to
get the best performance from your polyethylene. Consider keeping an extra
roof covering on hand for emergencies.
All rolls wider than sixteen feet must ship by truck.

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 Greenhouse Films And Chemicals
Some chemicals in use within greenhouses can possibly attack the HALS inhibitor used in the clear, colorless UV inhibited
films that are commonly offered throughout the industry.
Listed below are chemicals either known to react with polyethylene or suspected to have the potential to reduce film life:
Service & Installation

Banrot* Pentachloronitrobenzene (PNCB) Mancozeb*

Chloropicrin Oxamyl Copper sulfate
Chlorine gas Chlormequat Chloride Chlorine bleach
Hypochlorite swimming pool
Chlorpyrifos Methyl Bromide
chemicals
Dithiocarbamates Bromine gas Formetanate hydrochloride
Fluvalinate Sulfur Bromoxynil
Vinclozolin Permethrin and other synthetic pyrethroids Iprodine
Dienochlor* Captan* Silver Thiosulfate
Chlorothalonil* Diazinon* Methomyl
Metam-sodium
*Trade names used only where no generic name could be found for the chemical or combination of
chemicals.

The Above List Does Not Intend To Represent A Complete List Of All Chemicals That Can Potentially Be Harmful.
It is therefore recommended that caution be taken to limit the contact of chemicals with greenhouse film to prevent
premature degradation and the reduction of film life.
If you have any questions regarding this, please contact your sales representative.

Recommended Practices Concerning Film Greenhouse Covers

1. Except for greenhouse covers expressly known to be
manufactured for greenhouse use, no polyethylene or other film
should be used as glazing, for covering any greenhouse or for
any similar purpose.
2. Single layers of film may not be sufficiently resistant to wind
stress or impact. Therefore, it is recommended that two layers,
air inflated to .2 - .3 inches of water pressure measured on a
manometer, be used. Outside air should be used for inflation
because of its lower cold weather moisture content. Inflation air
should not be directed perpendicularly or nearly perpendicularly
at the film but obliquely to it.
3. Paint should not be applied to film. It is recommended for
shading purposes appropriate compounds made expressly for
shading of greenhouse film be used. If rafters are painted, paint
should be fully cured before putting film in contact with rafters. In
this regard, the use of latex paint rather than solvent-based paint is
recommended. Painting the film above wood or metal supports,
with a white compound will reduce the film temperature and help to
maintain film life.
4. Soap or detergent should not be left on film. If film is washed
with soap or detergent, it is recommended that immediately
thereafter the film be well but carefully rinsed with water. Do not
use soap containing “pine oil” or other solvents.
5. a) Wood treated with volatile preservatives (i.e.
pentachlorophenol and creosote) should not come into contact
with film. Contact with any of these materials may shorten the life
of the film. Pressure preservative-treated wood (i.e. Wolman™
lumber) is safe for use.
b. Colorless film should not be used on greenhouses framed
with PVC. Using colorless films on PVC structures will
significantly shorten the film life.
6. Film should not be secured by puncturing it with nails, or
otherwise. In this regard, it is recommended that aluminum
locking channels be used. If film must be installed by nailing,
the film should be wrapped around a piece of lath, or
sandwiched between two pieces of lath.
7. If pesticides and other chemicals are used inside the
greenhouse, the following recommendations are presented
to help to limit their contact with the film(s) and, therefore,
their effect on film life:
a) Use outside air to inflate between the layers of film in a
double layer house.
b) If inside air is used:
1) Place the air inlet to the blower in the upper portion of
the house. This will help prevent pesticide-laden air from
being drawn into the blower.
2) Baffle the outlet of the blower to prevent air with high
concentrations of pesticides from being blown directly at
one small area of the film. The baffle should also help to
remove droplets of pesticide from the air stream.
c) Turn off the inflation blower when pesticides are being
applied. Allow the pesticides to settle before restarting the
blower.
d) When possible, use topical applications of pesticides on
the crop, rather than fogging, to reduce the potential for
pesticide contact with the film.
e) If a pesticide solution is sprayed on the film, wash the area
with water, as soon as possible, to remove any pesticide
residue.

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 Greenhouse Films And Chemicals
Basics Of Greenhouse Film Selection, Installation and Maintenance
What Film Shall I Use? material called a “copolymer”. Copolymers are stronger and
more flexible than regular polyethylene (PE) and provide three

Service & Installation

This is a serious question for the grower because he is
key benefits to the grower:
constantly faced with the struggle between the need for low
cost and adequate performance. As a good businessman, the · They resist wind and snow loads, even hail, better than
grower realizes that he is asking that a film that costs maybe regular PE.
$2500 per year per acre protect his crops (which could sell for
anywhere from $50,000 to $200,000 per acre per year) from · They have greater strength at the folds and resist
the elements in his location. These elements range from balmy splitting better.
coastal breezes year-round to constant 30 mph winds through · They perform better (remain more flexible) at low
three months of subfreezing weather. And they range from the temperatures than regular PE.
ceaseless solar UV bombardment of Florida to the seemingly
endless cloud-covered days of Seattle or Cleveland. The The use of two six-mil (.006²) layers of greenhouse film, air
selection of an appropriate film is not a simple process; may inflated, is recommended. While four-mil film is available, its
factors have to be weighed. Because of the “insurance” factor, use involves some risk. Strength is highly reliant upon
it is recommended that the grower use the best materials thickness, so especially where spans are over 20 feet (film
available. width), the six-mil film is more reliable. Some manufacturers
have tried to promote cost savings (normally a good idea) by
Resistance to ultraviolet (UV) damage is generally thought of suggesting a six-mil outer sheet and a four-mil inner sheet.
in terms of how may winters to get through or how many Take caution in this regard. First, not all aluminum rail systems
years of service, and current films are generally rated as “1”, are designed to handle any thickness of films. A reduction to
“2”, “3” year films because they perform satisfactorily in most ten mils (6 + 4) may form a “lock” that won’t hold up to higher
geographic locations for those approximate periods of time. winds. Second, six-mil films normally are strong and resist all
In fact, where sunlit is extreme, “three year” films are often but severe conditions. Does it make sense to leave a weaker
only “two year” films. Conversely, where sunlight is four-mil film layer to defend against elements that might break
moderate, “two year” films have lasted three years and, in a a six-mil outer layer?
few instances, longer.
A common misconception about greenhouse films is that a
In many instances, one year films are used on houses not six-mil film lasts one and one-half times as long as a four-mil
geared for heating and cooling, so removal in the summer film, or that an eight-mil fill will last twice as long as a four-mil
months is a necessity. Multi-year houses with heating and film. This is not true. A six-mil film may last a month or two
cooling equipment have a choice that should include installed longer against UV attack than a four-mil, but that’s all. Film life
costs (costs are approximate): is determined by stabilized systems, film strength by thickness
“Two Year” “Three Year” and polymer tape.
Film Film
Single-layer applications are not recommended except in the
Film Cost/sq ft $.12 $.14
most timid of climates. A tightly applied single layer, for
Double Layer, Labor/sq ft* .02 - .05 $.02 -.05
example, installed at 70oF will have a much higher risk of
failure at 0oF. Contraction may cause it to split or “shatter”.
Total/sq ft $.14 - .17 $.16 -.19
And there’s no back-up layer. Growers should use a single
Divided by 2 years 3 years
layer at their own risk.
Annual Cost $.07 - .085 $.053 -.063
* $.02 for gutter connected range using tube Conversely, the double-layered, air-inflated, six-mil house is
$.05 for free standing house using sheet exceptionally strong and has been known in very high winds
and under high snow loads to outlast the structural members.
Other things being equal, a “three year” film is 25% less
Houses have collapsed “domino style”, leaving the film
expensive than a “two year” film.
undamaged. The double-layer, air-inflated house is strong
The main thing to remember is that greenhouse films are because the air “pillow” and film membrane act to transfer
engineered for the job; general purpose or “construction”, stress from one point to many points. In an air-inflated
films are not suitable, and not recommended for use because configuration, not just one area stretches, the whole film
of their typical and unpredictable one to six-month life. It just stretches; not just one rafter feels the stress, many do. This
doesn’t make sense to risk losing $.50 per sq ft of seed, ability to spread the stress around quickly makes the “double
fertilizer, water, peat moss, labor and energy costs on a poly” house almost an engineering marvel, but it also
non-UV film costing $.02 per sq ft, when one costing only $.04 necessitates a strong structure. Build your greenhouse to the
more can let you sell your finished crop for $2.00 to $3.00 or National Greenhouse Manufacturers Association (NGMA)
more per square foot. It is “penny wise and pound foolish”. construction standards so that the structure won’t be a weak
Use films without UV stabilizers at your own risk. link in the house system.
Another feature of most greenhouse films (there are
exceptions) is that they are made from a special polyethylene

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 Greenhouse Films And Chemicals
The Basics (continued)

Getting Ready Putting The Film On

Service & Installation

We are in favor of using aluminum rail system film holders While most growers know the basic rule—“don’t install film
and against the use of slats and nails. When using aluminum on a day with wind”—there are always new faces in the
“clamps”, care should be taken to see that they are business who might not know. A 40¢ x 100¢ sheet of
adequately fastened to the house. On a purchased double greenhouse film can turn into a sail strong enough to drag
poly house, the manufacturer has designed the rail system, several grown men across a field, or to blow many yards
and if designed properly, it will withstand the stress film away. Enough said.
puts on it. Adding a rail system is done under three general
When installing double layers of sheet, one may, if there is a
situations:
shortage of labor, temporarily fasten the first layer at the
· to install double poly over glass, corners and at convenient intervals along the length; 15- to
20-foot intervals usually suffice. The second sheet is then
· to adapt a wood structure from slats to rail, put in place so that both layers are superimposed.
· to convert a fiberglass house to film. Fastening is usually done at the ends first, then along the
length or sides.
These are normally not situations where a grower hires an
engineer for help unless the range is large, so for the When installing tubing, the tube is unrolled (gussetted
do-it-yourselfer, there are some guidelines: version), so that the underneath fold can be fastened along
the peak (large gable-shaped house) or along one gutter
1. Aluminum rail systems should be installed with bolts (gutter-connected arch house). Then one pulls the top fold
through the wooden or metal structural parts, and in the case on the opposite side down and fastens it. Ends are left until
of wood, washers are recommended. Put bolts in at least as last. The cross-section drawing illustrates this principle.
frequently as the manufacturer recommends. Why? Because
high winds put extreme stress on the fastening system. It has
been reported to us that where wood screws were used and
not closely spaced, winds have caused the rail to be literally
torn away from the house, bent, and made useless.
One-quarter inch (1/4²) bolts are recommended.
2. In any house system, be sure to remove splinters, burrs,
nails, or any sharp objects so that film does not get torn or
punctured during installation or use.
3. Using slats and nails as a fastening system is not
recommended because they tend to focus on a few points
and because the film is punctured; however, for the grower
who has no other method economically available, a few hints
may reduce the risk of failure or make installation and
removal easier.
a. Use double-head nails. They are easily removed and
reduce slat breakage.
b. At the eaves, get double layers of film between the slat and
eave to provide a gasketline cushion.
c. Avoid rolling the slat such that rain settles between the
slat and eave and promotes fungus and rot. A “reverse” roll
is preferable.
d. A tape or other gasketlike material over the film and under
the nailhead tends to reduce tearing, but be careful not to use
plasticized vinyl tape, as it can adversely effect the film.
e. The more nails, the better the slat “grasps” or “clamps” the
film to the structural member. Placing nails every two feet (2¢)
or less is recommended.
f. The system illustrated below is reported by Bill Roberts of
Rutgers as being successful for over twenty years:

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 Greenhouse Films And Chemicals
The Basics (continued)
Film should be “stretched or tightened” only enough to avoid
wrinkles. Let inflation air do the job of stretching for you. Not
only that, but if film is put on too tightly on a warm day, it
doesn’t have enough slack to contract during cold weather,
and that could cause tearing or shattering. There is no magic
in a taut installation, and there can be danger.
When using a front-end loader attachment to install
greenhouse film, avoid mechanical abrasion to the ends of
the rolls. This is doubly applicable to greenhouse tubing
because you are relying on that edge to hold air, particularly if
a locking channel fails to do so properly.
All About Air Inflation
Squirrel cage blowers are the backbone of inflation of a
double-layer film “pillow” and the rule of thumb is: for every
10,000 square feet of pillow area, use a one-thirtieth (1/30)
horsepower blower. It can be connected to more than one
pillow, and pillows can be interconnected. The final criterion is
air pressure, discussed below.
To direct air in two directions, a sheet metal “T” (furnace duct
material) simplifies matters. Whether in one or two directions,
the use of 4 inch diameter flexible tubing such as that used
on home laundry dryers is satisfactory. When fastening the
four inch tubing to a pillow, many methods are possible;
however, the use of methods that do not directly point the air
stream towards the upper layer of film works best. The
constant blowing of air at the upper layer can cause
premature degradation of that spot.
A “+” shaped cut in the film where the two slits are 4 inches
long provides the necessary hole for fastening the air duct to
the lower layer of film. The four “flaps” created can surround
the air duct and be sealed to it with a tape. Furnace duct tape
is satisfactory for this purpose, as are clear plastic tapes. An
alternate method is to cut a round hole in the plastic slightly
smaller than the outside tubing diameter and “screw” the
tubing in, fixing it with tape.
Since the use of outside air, especially in Northern locations,
provides the least amount of humidity and therefore reduces
condensation between layers of the pillow, it is desirable to
use it. Therefore, mount the blower fan high on an end wall
for this advantage. Remember that once the pillow is inflated,
the air inside is static, and the fan only maintains pressure. In
a cold situation, the outside layer of film will be close to
outside air temperature. The air between layers does conduct
some heat, so it will be warmer, and finally, the inside layer
will be nearly at the same temperature as the inside air near it.
A word of caution: Don’t put the air tubing into the pillow near
the gutter if there is a danger of snow loads closing it off.
Because the air between layers is static, it constitutes a “dead
air space”, and every amateur engineer knows that “dead air
space” provides insulation value. This is the reason that one
controls air pressure by closing the intake area of the squirrel
cage fan rather than providing a hole in the film. You want
that dead air space to remain dead. Now, it is easy to
understand why a sloppy installation with air leaks is not as
Service & Installation
energy efficient as an “air-tight” pillow.
Finally, and emphatically, use a manometer to measure air
pressure inside the pillow. This point is very important. A
manometer is a simple device for measuring air pressure.
Manufactured manometers can be purchased for around $25
to $40 or you can make one out of a piece of wood, a piece
of plastic 1/4² tubing, and a ruler or ruler marks. The key rule
of thumb is to inflate the pillow to 1/4² of water. This means
that on a U-shaped plastic tube with water in it, the water on
the side toward the pillow is 1/4² lower than the side toward
the atmosphere. Pillows should be kept at .2 to .3 inches of
water. At this level, the pillow will be approximately 12 to 16
inches thick at the center on wide film installations and 4 to 6
inches thick on the narrower ones.
Pressures above .3² are not desirable because, since the film
is flexible, they can cause over inflation. Don’t worry that it
looks wrong. The key
problem is that the
stretching of the film
makes it thinner, and
thinner means weaker.
Pressures below .2² will
probably not put
enough tension on the
film. Remember, it
functions well under
moderate tension. Here
is a diagram of a useful
homemade manometer:
Homemade manometers are fine, but for the grower with an
acre or more, the use of a manufactured manometer is
practical. With a small metal tube attached, a small puncture
in the lower layer will allow insertion of the tube and a quick
reading of air pressure. Improper readings (too high) can
then be changed by reducing the intake area of the squirrel
cage fan, and the “test” hole easily repaired by a small piece
of tape. While it seems a pain in the neck, the routine
measurement and adjustment of air pressure can go a long
way to prolong film life.
Fighting The Elements
The natural foes of a greenhouse film are UV light, heat, high
winds, extreme cold, snow, and hail. The engineered
greenhouse films go a long way toward fighting these
enemies. Even so, there are some practical ways that you,
the grower, can assist in this struggle and get more life from
your film.
The experienced grower knows that the first point of film
failure usually comes where the film is touching a structural
member. The reason for this is that extreme heat and cold
cycles wear down the physical strength of the film. It is not
unusual for a film touching a rafter to vary by as much as
100oF from day to night, because the structural member
absorbs heat in the day and emits (gets rid of) it at night.
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 Greenhouse Films And Chemicals
The Basics (continued)
When you consider these constant extremes (remember heat Making It Last Longer
Service & Installation

accelerates all physical processes) as compared to film not

In addition to some of the above suggestions for
near a structural member and not varying in temperature nearly
prolonging film life, there are some other tips or cautions
as much, it is amazing that greenhouse films last as long as
that will help. Most pertain to chemical attack.
they do.
Polyethylene is highly resistant to many chemicals (muriatic
One way to reduce this heat stress is to put a layer of white
acid, for example, is sold in polyethylene bottles), but not to
reflecting substance between the rafter and the film. Once
all chemicals. Organic chemicals raise the greatest threat,
there, the daytime high temperatures are lowered significantly
so follow these rules:
(because the energy is being reflected and not absorbed), and
this reduces the degradation process. There are two practical 1. Don’t put solvent chemically treated wood in contact with
ways to do this: with white paint or with white tape. greenhouse film.
White paint on the rafter, purlin, etc., where the film comes in 2. Herbicides, pesticides, fungicides, and fumigants
contact, will do much to reduce degradation and is the preferred commonly used in greenhouses may effect some
method. Be sure, if using solvent based paints, to let the paint greenhouse films and cause them to resist UV sunlight for a
cure totally. Latex paints not only dry faster, but do not contain shorter time. Try to avoid direct contact with the film.
organic solvents that can chemically attack the film (see next
Dirt or pollutant accumulation on the outer top layer of
section). White plastic tapes (some are available with a foamed
greenhouse film can rob the plants of valuable light. This
backing) are more expensive to buy, but generally easier and
occurs not because of static or stickiness of the film, but
less costly to apply. They have the added advantage of being
because the pollutant may be sticky, and also because the
smooth. Since some portion of the reason for film failure over a
surface of the film under a microscope has little
rafter is abrasion from film movement, the smoothness of plastic
indentations or pockets where dirt can become trapped. It
tape reduces the chance of this kind of wear.
makes good sense to wash the outside layer when this
CAUTION: Be sure to buy a tape designed to last under occurs to restore more light to the plants. Common soaps
sunlight. Paint will out last those not so designed. or detergents are satisfactory in helping to clean the film,
but remember to:
Another villain for northern growers is snow. When snow builds
up (incidentally, it slides off of most greenhouse films readily) · thoroughly rinse the soap or detergent off.
the best response is to allow the snow to collapse the outer
layer, not to deflate it deliberately, because reinflation is difficult · do not use soaps containing “pine oil” or other solvents.
and because both film layers should remain under tension. Run Read the label to make sure oils are not present.
the inside temperatures high. This way the heat inside the Is This All Worthwhile?
house will be conducted to the snow and melt it. Once melted,
the pillow will automatically be reinflated. This uses energy, but If you have read this far, you are probably asking this
it is preferable to film failure or collapse of the greenhouse. question. The answer, however, is your decision. Almost all
of the tips, urgings, or warnings offered here have a
In areas of high sunlight, there is sometimes too much light. financial implication.
Southern growers often put a shade cloth over the film or paint it
with a shade paint. The shade cloth method is good, so long as You have the opportunity to prolong the life of your
the plastic used to make it does not contain plasticizers. PVC greenhouse film, often without much cost at all, so it’s your
(polyvinyl chloride) often does. PP (polypropylene) seldom, if dollars, in some cases your crops and their value, that are
ever, does, but be sure to ask the seller. Plasticizers can attack at stake. Talk these ideas over with your fellow growers and
the greenhouse film. The use of shade paints is also good, but with your suppliers of greenhouse films. We think they will
the same principle applies. Do not use solvent-based paints; corroborate these ideas.
they can attack the film. The best paints to use are those Sure, we’ve put forth a wide variety of ideas, but that’s the
recommended for use on greenhouse films. Continental nature of dealing with the “double-poly” structures. We feel
Products Co. and The Garland Company of Cleveland, OH it’s better that you fully understand all the ramifications and
produce such paints. The benefit of both shade cloths and choose your own path than you be uninformed and
shade paints is that they take the UV beating in the summer possibly in trouble.
when intensities are greatest, thereby prolonging film life.
High winds can also damage film. Cornell Professor Emeritus
Ray Sheldrake recommends closing all doors and turning on
enough exhaust fans to create a high negative air pressure in
the house. This tends to reduce most flapping, which can be
troublesome.

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