July 2017 Full Issue PDF

July 2017 Table of Contents
Title Designer Page

In This Issue 3
From the Editors 4
August Sneak Peek 5
Autumn Retreat Michael Cheek 6-19
Thyme for Pumpkin Pie Karen Wisner-Dyar 20-27
Be Thankful Tracy Moreau 28-33
Bluebird and Thistle Shirley Koenig 34-38
Tommy Wendy Young 39-49
Chickadee Meadow Sharon Bond 50-57
Chinese Lanterns Linda Lineman 58-61
Advertising 62-66
Fall Bounty Shara Reiner 67-72
Canned Turkey Chris Haughey 73-77
Fall Favorites Elisabetta de Maria 78-81
Freckles and her Pumpkins Deb Mishima 82-86
Gobble! MaryJo Tuttle 87-91
Leafy Cell Phone Stand Sandra Goodale 92-96
Salem Crow Company Betty Bowers 97-100
2018 Theme Calendar 101
Design Call 102
Readers Gallery 103
Copyright Notice:
Copyright 2017 Pixelated Palette. The Pixelated Palette is produced 12 times per year by Cupboard
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Publisher.
In This Issue
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Hello, and welcome to the July 2017 issue of the Pixelated
Palette!
Am I the only one shaking my head in amazement wondering where the

first half of the year has gone? July is already half over and fall is just
around the corner. As a transplant from the Northeast into Texas, I am
always delighted to welcome fall - good-bye sweltering summer and
come on in, cooler, autumn weather.
This months Pixelated Palette is brimming with autumn designs, new

artists, and unique surfaces!
We welcome Michael Cheek as our cover artist. Under his relaxed

guidance and with his well-illustrated instructions, even a brand-new
painter will be able to create his lakeside retreat.
Shirley Koenig, designer and author of 11 volumes of the Countrys Edge

painting series, is making her first appearance among our pages with a
handsome Bluebird on a Thistle.
Birddid someone mention a bird? Well, its not autumn without a

turkey (or two). Just wait til you discover our special delivery, mason
jar dinners. (Hee hee, youll see!)
Many people associate autumn with warm hues, I assure you this issue
will satisfy your craving for color! Linda Lineman is debuting a vibrant
painting of Chinese Lantern flowers, Sharon Bond uses DecoArt Media
Misters to create a powerful backdrop for her design, Shara Reiner has a
versatile surface and Tracy Moreau reminds us to always Be Thankful.
I could go on telling you a little bit about each design and how it fits
perfectly into Lindsey and my Harvest Visionbut, I think youll enjoy it
more if you flip through the projects and discover them for yourself.
Get your brushes readygreat fun is just ahead!
Waving my paint brush at ya
Susan
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Ornament Issue Sneak Peek
5
Autumn Retreat
By Michael Cheek
People will often ask me if the scenes I paint are real places. Some are and some are not! This
particular scene is not a real place, but it is reminiscent of the Hills of North Carolina where I was
born and raised. I can easily see myself retreating in this little house by the water, on a crisp
autumn day! I hope you enjoy painting this scene as much as I did!
6
Supplies
Surface:
11X14 Canvas
Project Supplies
Standard Oil Painting Tools
Black Graphite Paper
Paper Towels
Paints: Martin F. Weber Prima Oil Colors

Burnt Sienna
Cad Red Light
Cad Yellow Light
Titanium White
Ultramarine Blue
Yellow Ochre
Mediums by Winsor/Newton
Liquin
Brushes by Loew Cornell

Series 1801, Flat Bristle #'s 9, 6, 2
Script Liner #4
Helpful Hints:
When transferring the pattern to the canvas, only trace basic lines. For instance, it will be
difficult to paint around objects such as trees, bushes ect.
Instead of cleaning your brush with thinner between colors, use a paper towel to pinch the paint
out of the brush. This allows some color to remain in the bristles, causing more variety of color
tones when loading the next mixture.
If at any time the paint is dragging and not moving well, add a bit of liquin. This will improve
the flow of paint!
Preparation:
Use black graphite to transfer the basic pattern lines to the canvas.
Remember that for this painting, the light source is coming from the right.
Sky and Clouds: Using a #9 flat bristle, load a mix of Titanium White and Ultramarine Blue. This
will be a light blue mix. Using horizontal strokes, paint in the sky area, leaving some of the canvas
showing in the middle. Clean the brush and load a mix of Titanium White with just a touch of Cad
Red Light. This will be a very light pink mix. Load the paint on one side of the brush. Using the
whole, flat side, paint in the clouds by dragging the brush to the right, filling in the spaces you left
unpainted. Work for a nice soft look!
Color illustrations begin on the next page.
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The picture below shows the sky; note the spaces left for clouds.
The picture below shows the clouds as they are painted in.
Distant Mountain: Using a #9 flat bristle, load a mix of Titanium White, Ultramarine Blue and a
touch of Cad Red Light. This will be a light lavender mix. Working off the flat of the brush and
starting at the top, use short downward strokes to paint the distant mountain. As you progress to the
base of the mountain, add a bit more Titanium White in the mix. It should be lighter in value at the
base. Again, work for a soft distant look! (Illustration below)
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Background Land Area & Pine Trees: Using a #6 flat bristle, load a mix of burnt Sienna, a
touch of Ultramarine Blue and a touch of yellow ochre. This will be a medium brownish-green mix
(not too dark)! Starting at the bottom where the land meets the water, use short downward strokes to
paint in the land area. As you progress upward, (a little more than half way), turn the brush vertically
and paint in the pine trees, sliding the brush downward on the chisel edge. Notice that the trees get a
bit lighter in value as they go towards the roof of the house. Wipe some of the dark mix out of the
bristles and load a bit more Yellow Ochre with a touch of Burnt Sienna to create the lighter value in the
trees. Wipe the brush! (See two illustrations below)
Background Bushes: Load a mix of Yellow Ochre with a touch of Cad Red Light and a touch of
Titanium White on the bottom, left corner of the brush. This will be a light golden mix. Turn the
brush over so the paint is on the top right. Working off the top right corner push upward, releasing
the brush downward in a comma stroke, working in a circular motion to form the bushes. More
titanium white can be added to the mix to highlight a few of them.
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Background Grasses: Load a mix of Cad Yellow Light, Yellow Ochre and a touch of Titanium
White. This again will be a light golden mix. Working off the flat of the brush, tap in the grasses
working in layers. Notice that the grasses have just a slight angle to them. A bit more Titanium
White can be added to the mix for a brighter highlight on the grasses.
Background Rocks: Using a #2 flat bristle, load a mix of Titanium White with a touch of Burnt
Sienna. This will be a light brown mix. Working off the flat of the brush, paint in small hump shapes
for the rocks. Dont have them all in a row; break them up! Use a bit more Titanium White
and highlight a few of them on the right sides.
Water and Water lines: Using a #9 flat bristle, load a mix of Ultramarine Blue and Titanium
White. This will be a medium blue mix. Working off the flat of the brush and using short downward
strokes, paint in the water mostly on the outer section, leaving some of the middle section unpainted.
Wipe the brush! Pick up a bit more Titanium White in the mix and paint in the middle section of the
water, again using downward strokes, being sure to blend well with the previous mix.
Clean or wipe the brush and pick up some of the previous background tree mix. Using the flat of the
brush, pull straight down into the water for the dark reflection. Notice the reflections get shorter as
they work over to the house. Load a bit of Burnt Sienna with a touch of Cad Red Light and reflect
some of the house in the water by pulling straight down. Using a #2 flat bristle, load a mix of
Titanium White with a touch of Ultramarine Blue. This will be a light blue mix. Working off the flat
of the brush, paint in the water lines by sliding the brush back and forth horizontally.
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House: (#2 flat bristle, #4 script liner)
Chimney: Burnt Sienna + Ultramarine Blue

Highlight with Titanium White + a touch of Burnt Sienna
Roof -line, Window and Porch: Burnt Sienna + Ultramarine Blue
Window Pane: Burnt Sienna + Titanium White
House: Burnt Sienna + Cad Red Light

Highlight: Titanium White added to the mix
Roof: Titanium White, Ultramarine Blue + a touch of Cad Red Light

(lavender mix)
Highlight: Titanium White
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Pine Trees, Bushes, Land And Rocks Left Side: This section (left side of house) was painted
using the same color mixes and techniques as previously described in (Background pine trees, bushes,
land and rocks). However, I did paint the pines trees a little differently. Heres how: Establish a
placement line for the pine trees by turning the brush vertically and working off the chisel edge of the
brush. Starting at the top and working off the right corner of the brush, work back and forth to form
the pines.
Birds in Flight: Using the #4 script liner thinned with Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Sienna, paint
in a few birds in flight using an elongated M shape.
Final Touches:
Using the #4, script liner and any color from your palette (thinned to an inky consistency), be sure to
sign your painting. After the painting is dry, you may want or need to re-instate some of the dark and
lighter values in the composition. Most of the time it is difficult to achieve the brightness when the
painting is still wet!
Students always ask about varnishing their painting; here is what I do: After the painting is
completely dry to the touch, I use a small amount of Liquin to give my painting a little bit of a sheen!
Pour a small amount right on the canvas and use a flat bristle brush to scrub and coat it, making sure it
gets an even coat. You may add as many coats as you like but make sure you allow plenty of drying
time between coats. If you want to add a permanent varnish, it is said that you need to wait at least
six months.
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\ , it
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Top Left
2017 M. Cheek
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Bottom Left
2017 M. Cheek
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Middle section, Top
2017 M. Cheek
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Middle Section, Bottom
2017 M. Cheek
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Upper Right
2017 M. Cheek
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Lower Right
2017 M. Cheek
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Thyme for Pumpkin Pie
By Karen Wisner/Dyar
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Dont you just wish you could bottle the best parts of fall? The fragrance of pumpkin pie, the
aroma of cinnamon and spices, and even the sounds of laughter from the family gathering. I
hope painting Thyme for Pumpkin Pie in this unique, faux glass jar, enables you to capture
some smiles of the season!
Supplies:
Surface:
12" Mason Jar Plaque 31-L290 www.cdwood.com
2 1/2" Tag 22-2243 www.cdwood.com
DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint:

Antique Maroon Jade Green
Avocado Lamp Black
Burnt Orange Light Buttermilk
Burnt Sienna Milk Chocolate
Cadmium Yellow Moon Yellow
Dark Chocolate Russet
Deep Midnight Blue Slate Grey
Evergreen Snow White
French Grey Blue Soft Sage
Graphite Tangerine
Honey Brown Tuscan Red
Mediums:
Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finisher Matte DAS13
DecoArt Acrylic Gesso TXFP06
Project Supplies:
Brushes:
Round sizes 1 through 6 Ball Stylus
Flat Wash 3/4" & 1" Black Micron Pen 01
Shaders 14 & 20 Dark Graphite Paper
Script Liners (long bristles) 5/0 & 1 Cotton Swabs
Mop 1/4 & 1/2 2 pieces of Sea Sponge (1 & 1/2)
Fabric Rounds 0, 2 & 8 Rusty Wire
Pliers
Piece of Fabric, 1/2 x 14
Which brush do I use?
Use the round brushes to basecoat. Bl
The 5/0 script liner to paint vines, cracks,
Pi details and smaller highlight strokes.
The 1 script liner to paint large highlight strokes.
The 3/4" & 1" flat wash to float background areas and wide shades and highlights.
The shaders to float color, shade and highlight (When floating color, load the brush with
a wider amount of paint then done for shading or highlighting.).
The fabric rounds to drybrush inner highlights.
The mops to blend floated areas.
Use the Q-Tip as a mini mop.
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As you paint, refer to the pattern, for shading (///) and highlights (...).
Preparation:
Note: I do this Gesso prep on any slippery surface. I think it is much easier to paint on with this
pre- treatment.
Background prep: Place a pile of Gesso onto your palette paper, add a little water to loosen it
slightly. Wet the 1" piece of sea sponge and squeeze it so it is just damp. Dip the sponge into the
Gesso and with a pouncing motion, cover the plaque with Gesso. Allow this to dry, then apply a
second layer of Gesso. When the Gesso background is it is completely dry, base with two coats of
Light Buttermilk.
Hang Tag: Sand the tag and wipe away the dust. Base the tag with two coats of Light Buttermilk.
Pattern: Using the Black Micron Pen, trace the pattern onto tracing paper; using the small end of
a stylus and graphite paper, transfer the basic design lines onto the plaque. Add detail lines as
necessary.
Instructions:
Note: Allow sufficient drying time between paint and medium applications.
Jar Background: Float background area using Slate Grey; when dry, float another layer to
darken using Slate Grey.
Jar Lid: Float the lid color using Burnt Sienna; when dry, apply a second layer with Burnt Sienna.
Shade lid using Russet. Dip a small piece of sea sponge into water, squeeze out water so it is only
damp; dip sponge into Graphite, only picking up a small dot of paint. Pounce it up and down on the
palette to work the paint into a small space on the sponge; sponge the Graphite onto the lid, see
photo. Continue to load the sponge with small amounts of paint until the lid is lightly sponged.
Shade lid using Graphite. Using the smallest fabric round brush, drybrush Moon Yellow onto the
centers of each lid level (see pattern for .... areas).
Pumpkins: Basecoat with Tangerine. Using Milk Chocolate, float stem color. Paint stem details
using Dark Chocolate. NOTE: Do not paint the stem end vines and curly vines until after the
painting is all done. Shade the pumpkins using Burnt Sienna and the stems using Dark Chocolate.
Deepen the darkest areas of the stems using Graphite. Deepen the darkest areas of the pumpkins
using Russet. Highlight the pumpkins using Moon Yellow, drybrush the center highlights and float
the edge highlights, see photo.
Rolling Pin: Float rolling pin color using Honey Brown. Float red handle using Tomato Red;
paint wood details and cracks on the pin using Milk Chocolate. Paint details on the handle using
Antique Maroon. Shade the wood pin using Milk Chocolate and handle using Antique Maroon.
Deepen the shading on the darkest areas of the pin and handle using a small amount of Graphite.
Highlight the center area of the rolling pin by dry brushing Light Buttermilk.
Pumpkin Pie: Float pumpkin area of the pie using Burnt Orange; when dry, apply another layer
of color. Float a light layer of Honey Brown on the whipped cream area. Float the pie crust using
Honey Brown. Float the pie pan using French Grey Blue. Shade the pumpkin area using Burnt
Sienna. Sponge the pie pan using Deep Midnight Blue, using the same technique as used on the jar
lid. Shade the crust using Milk Chocolate. Once the pie pan is dry, shade using Deep Midnight Blue;
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when dry, deepen the shading using Graphite. Highlight the whipped cream using Snow White.
Drybrush the pumpkin highlights using Light Buttermilk. Highlight the crust using Snow White.
Dot pumpkin areas using Burnt Sienna. Dot the crust and paint detail lines using Milk Chocolate.
Paint highlight strokes on the whipped cream and crust, using Snow White. (Refer to Pattern)
Mouse: Float color using Slate Grey and shade using Graphite. Float cheeks and inside ear using a
small amount of Tomato Red. Highlight using Snow White. Float a Graphite nose, then paint the
eyes and whiskers.
Sunflower: Basecoat petals using Cadmium Yellow. Float leaf and stem color using Jade Green.
Float flower center using Milk Chocolate. Shade petals using Burnt Sienna; shade the leaves and
stem using Avocado. Highlight leaves using Moon Yellow and petals with Snow White. Paint leaf
details using Avocado. Paint petal details using Burnt Sienna. Dot flower center using Dark
Chocolate. Paint Snow White strokes on 5 of the petals. (See pattern)
Large Leaves: Basecoat using Soft Sage and shade using Avocado. Highlight using Moon Yellow.
Float a small amount of Burnt Sienna onto each leaf, see photo. Paint leaf details using Avocado.
Vines, Leaves and Berries: Paint the vines using Dark Chocolate. Remember to add the
pumpkin ends and the curly vines. Paint the tiny leaves using Avocado. Dot the dark berries using
Burnt Sienna and the light berries using Moon Yellow.
Hangtag: Shade the tag using Milk Chocolate, let dry. Paint or ink, Thyme for Pumpkin Pie.
Glass Look: To achieve a "glass look", I floated a light wash using Snow White down the outer edges
and across the bottom, about 1" or so into the painting. I also did a "back to back" float by the mouse.
Load your brush and pull a float, turn your brush so you pull the next float touching the last one but
have the "floating" of the color going the opposite way. Use a mop brush and soften the center line. I
did this towards the center of the pie as well. Let all the floated areas dry. I did not cover the entire
painted areas with the "glass float", you can add more if you like.
Tip: If you are not sure how much float of glass that you will want, lightly spray seal your painting
with Matte Spray Varnish, let it dry. Then try the "glass floating" and you will be able to remove it
with a damp paper towel, more easily. Make sure to wipe anything you do not want, off before it
has time to dry. Apply the long highlight strokes using Snow White and the 1 Script Liner.
Finish:
Following manufacturers instructions, spray the painted surfaces using Matte Spray Varnish. Apply
two coats.
Cut a long piece of wire and make a handle for your plaque. I curled the ends towards the front of my
painting.
Cut a long piece of wire and make a bow. Attach the hangtag with one end and use the other end to
attach the bow to the hanger wire. Tie a 1/2" fabric strip to the back of the bow, so it dangles.
Any questions or concerns, please contact me:

Karen Wisner/Dyar- kdolls.designs@gmail.com or www.homespuncountrycollectibles.com
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Pumpkin Pie Thyme Step by Step Illustrations
Basecoat and Color Floats Shade, Sponge and Details
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Highlight and Details Add "Glass" Look
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Be Thankful
By Tracy Moreau
www.tracymoreau.net
Welcome late summer and early fall with this warm reminder to be thankful for all you have! I
created this design to ensure success regardless of your painting skill!
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Supplies
Surface:
Small Grooved Sign 7 x 14; available from www.bearwithus.com
Project Supplies:
White Graphite Paper
Double Edged Ruler
Painters Tape
Fine Point Black Gel Pen (I Use a Uniball Signo).
Stencil Brocade 2, available from www.tracymoreau.net
(Optional) Pebeo Gedeo Mixtion Relief and Pebeo Gedeo Mirror Foil
Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Antique Green Soft Black
Asphaltum Sunny Day
Black Green Warm White
Light Buttermilk Extreme Sheen Metallics
Margarita 24 kt Gold
Persimmon Antique Bronze.
Saffron Yellow Copper
Brushes: Dynasty Faux Squirrel Brushes

Series 1827
1/2 Angle
#2 Rigger
3/4 Flat Wash
#4 Single Blender
1/2 Tracy Moreau Stencil
Wide, Cheap Chip Brush.
Tracy shares: This is a very easy background, sometime the simplest thing is all thats necessary
to show off the main element of the design to its best advantage. In this case, the appearance of
distressed weathered wood creates visual texture and the lighter color provides a backdrop for the
bold and brilliant Sunflower.
The Background
On the palette: Warm White, Saffron Yellow, Asphaltum and Soft Black.
Base the board with two coats of Saffron Yellow; sand lightly
when dry. Load a wide chip brush with thinned Warm White;
follow the grain of the wood and lightly brush over the yellow
in long strokes and in one direction. It should be streaky, thin
in some places and heavier in others. Let it dry then sand
lightly. Repeat technique with thinned Asphaltum. You
should achieve a soft, palette board appearance. Darken the
edges with a dry brush of Soft Black, pulling in the same
direction as the washes.
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Trace and transfer the Sunflower design to the upper left
corner of the panel. Shade along the edges of the flower
on the background with a Nice Wide Float of thinned
Asphaltum with the darkest value toward the flower.
The Leaves
On The Palette: Margarita, Antique Green and
Black Green
Apply one coat of thinned Antique Green to the leaves.

The area under the flowers and at the center view are
shaded with floats of thinned Black Green. The highlight
on the leaves is a float of thinned Margarita. Tone the shadows with a float of thinned Asphaltum.
All of the colors are going to be quite transparent; this will allow some of the visual texture and
pattern you created in the background to show through.
Note: all of the colors are thinnedto keep that transparency of the colors.
The Sunflower
On The Palette: Asphaltum, Saffron Yellow, Sunny Day, Persimmon & Soft Black
Base coat the center with a wash of Asphaltum. Shade the curve in the centre with a float of thinned
Soft Black. Shade along the lower edge of the center, toward the petals, with a float of Soft Black.
Stipple the top edge of the center to highlight using a dirty mix of Sunny Day and Asphaltum. Then
layer dip dots to the left side and top of the center with Lamp Black, Sunny Day and Asphaltum. This
will help create a highlight and some texture at the same time. If you find that the highlight is too
bright, let it dry and then apply a wash of Asphaltum over the entire center portion of the flower.
Base coat each petal of the sunflower with thinned Sunny Day. (Two coats should do) Shade the base
of each petal and under the over lapping petals with multiple floats of thinned Persimmon. Deepen
the shading with floats of thinned Asphaltum. (I like two, but it depends on how much you thin the
Asphaltum) Deepen the shadows closest to the center with a float of thinned Soft Black; add thinned
Soft Black to the turn overs and to the areas where the petals overlap.
With Sunny Day, add dry brushed highlight

to the centre area of the petals as needed.
Add a few strokes of Sunny Day to the edges
of a few Petals for a punch of highlighted
color.
Using the Black Gel Pen, outline the entire
floral motif, leaves and vines with a scribbly
fine line. (Try to keep it loose, it softens the
overall look of the floral.)
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The Banner
On the Palette: Extreme Sheen 24KT Gold, Copper, Antique Bronze, Asphaltum & Warm White.
Tape off a 3-inch wide banner on the right side of the panel, and one inch in from the end. With the
stencil brush, fill in the space with a little Copper, 24Kt Gold and the Antique Bronze. (This will create
a mottled metallic effect.) Let it dry.
Position the stencil over the banner and stencil with Asphaltum. Let this be irregular and imperfect.
Let it dry then sand it lightly to distress the images remaining (sand in the direction of the wood
grain). Wipe away any dust and remove the tape. Shade each side of the banner on the background
with a float of thinned, Soft Black. Highlight the left edge of the stenciled banner with a fine line of
Warm White.
The Lettering
Trace and transfer the lettering to the center of the panel. Using the rigger and Soft Black, paint in the
lettering. Highlight each letter on the left side with a fine line of thinned Warm White.
Optional Step ** Pebeo Gedeo Metallic Foil**
I have used the Metallic Foil on the vine tendrils; however, you can simply paint them using
the Extreme Sheen. If you wish to try the Pebeo Gedeo Metallic Foil, here are the directions:
Use the relief Adhesive (tube) to trace the tendrils. Once the adhesive is dry, press the foil onto the
surface (Matte side down, shiny side up) and rub gently to seat the foil onto the adhesive. Carefully
remove the foil, move foil to a new location and repeat until the entire tendril (adhesive) has been
covered with foil.
You will find that this foil has a true metallic sheen and really enhances the metallic finish and sparkle
of the extreme sheen; it also adds a little extra dimension to the finished piece.
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Bluebird and Thistle
By Shirley Koenig
34
Marvelous birds to see, male, Eastern Bluebirds are a brilliant, royal blue on the back and head
and a warm, red-brown on the breast. They live year-round in most states and can often be seen
swooping downward to capture a tasty morsel.
Supplies
Surface:
6x8, Extra Deep Canvas
Project Supplies:
Standard Acrylic Tools
Small Palette Knife (approximately 2 in length by wide)

Bright Blue Mustard Seed
Burnt Umber Purple Pizzazz
Cool White Raw Sienna
Espresso Soft Black
Georgia Clay Ultra Blue Deep
Lamp Black Zinc
Mississippi Mud
Mediums:
Deco Art Media Crackle Paste
Americana Sealer/Finisher Matte
White Gesso
Brushes: Everyone has a favorite brush so use what works best for you.
Angular Brush (for background)
, 1/8 Angular Brush
Fine Liner
Preparation
Using a palette knife, apply gesso to the canvas; leave ridges and let dry
thoroughly.
Apply crackle paste, using the palette knife. Remember, the thicker the
paste the larger the cracks. Apply to the upper right corner, slightly
curve to the center and down to the right bottom corner; also add a strip
of crackle medium down the left side of the canvas.
Let dry overnight. The cracks will appear as the crackle dries.
Painting Instructions
Painting basecoat use a filbert and base the canvas with zinc, let
dry. Background flip-flop and pat mississippi mud plus a touch of zinc
loosely through the center working the color around the top and bottom
edge. Add a small spot on the lower right edge. Highlight some of the
crackle spots with floats of bright blue and bright blue plus a dot of
purple pizzazz.
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Use white transfer paper and transfer the pattern to the canvas. Do not transfer the needles on the
thistles; these are added after the burr is painted.
Thistle: Base coat thistle burr and stem Burnt Umber. Use Cool White and lightly outline the stems
and base the petals at the base of the burr. Pat Soft Black around the bottom and up the right side of
the burr and lightly separate and shape the petals. Pat Raw Sienna on the left side of the burrs, on the
left side of the stems and streak the center of the petals. Use a small liner brush, mix cool white plus a
dot of raw sienna and add stickers to the bur's and the stems. Use cool white and pat snow on the top
of the burr's, down the right side.
Bluebird
Blue Sections: Base with Bright Blue and Bright Blue plus a touch of Ultra Blue Deep for the
darker areas.
Beak, Eye and Ends of Wings: Basecoat Lamp Black.
Breast & Neck Ring: Base Cool White. Paint the orange areas of neck and breast with Georgia Clay
plus a dot of Cool White. Streak the lower breast with cool white. Use the tip of a filbert to streak
the body.
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Details: Starting on the tail, streak a mix of Bright Blue plus a dot of Purple Pizzazz; using the same
shade, streak the lower wing, upper body and the center of the head.
Use a liner and Cool White to lightly outline the tail feathers, wing feathers and lightly streak around
the beak, across the top of the head and down the breast.
Use Cool White to accent the eye and beak.
Foot is Lamp Black; highlight with a brush mix of Lamp Black plus Cool White.
Snow: Use an old stiff brush and spatter the snow with thinned Cool White.
Finish: Following manufacturers instructions, spray with Matte Varnish/Sealer
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Tommy (Thankful for Turkey Toes)
2017 by OldeMoonlane Primitives by Wendy Young
Meet Tommy! He is a fun, whimsical sheep dressed in his finest. He is so thankful for
his favorite candy, "Turkey Toes." (Shhh!! Please don't tell him they are really candy
corn) I hope you enjoy making him as much as I enjoyed creating him for you. Happy
sculpting/painting!!
Surface Supplies:
(1) 4" Styrofoam Ball
(1) 1 7/8" X 2 1/2" Styrofoam Egg
(4) 3/8" X 5 1/2" dowels (for legs)
(1) 3/8" X 3 1/2" dowel (for neck)
(1) #1088475 chalkboard sign by Paper Studio (Wal-Mart)
Project Supplies:
(2 1/2) 2 oz. Tubes of QuikWood
Baking Soda 1/4 Cup
Elmer's White Glue
Parchment Paper
Blush (cheap dollar store)
Min-Wax Semi-Gloss Spray Sealer
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Tools:
X-ACTO Knife
Sharpie Permanent Marker
Pointy clay tool or a pencil
Ruler
Mediums by DecoArt
Diamond Dust
Antiquing Walnut
Extender

Black
Light Buttermilk
Light Hauser Green
Pumpkin Spice
Shading Flesh
Spicy Mustard
Wasabi Green
White
Brushes:
Script Liner 10/0- #20137 From Artist Club Papillon brushes
Old Chip Brush (available at dollar store)
Any base coating brush (I like using a small flat brush)
Old Soft Brush for applying Antiquing
Tips: Please read all instructions before beginning.

Quikwood preparation: When working with QuikWood, you may want to lightly coat
your hands with hand protectant cream or any lotion to keep QuikWood from sticking to
your hands.
I use DecoArt Extender Medium to smooth and blend QuikWood to any surface.
"Remember a little dab will do ya!!" DO NOT over use Extender, it could make
your QuikWood sticky.
Mixing Quikwood: You will use an X-ACTO knife to evenly slice off desired amount
needed for each step. DO NOT mix entire tube at once or it will harden before you are
ready to use. Mix QuikWood until white/tan colors are evenly mixed. Directions come
with each tube.
I like working on parchment paper as the parchment paper can easily peel off.
Sculpting Instructions:
Leg Attachment: Using your sharpie, mark (4) dots 1 1/2" apart in a square evenly. This
is just a guide to place the leg dowels. Place a mark with your sharpie 2" from one end on
each leg dowel. Insert each leg into the foam ball at each leg placement to the sharpie 2"
mark on the dowel. Make sure they are even and your sheeps body stands level. This is
important since you don't want a wobbly sheep. Slice 1 1/2" of QuikWood, knead and
prepare. Roll (4) equal balls. Roll each ball into a 1 3/4" long coil and wrap each coil
around the top of each leg where they join to the Styrofoam ball. Blend into the foam ball
only. Again, while this cure fully (20-30 minutes) make sure your sheep stands evenly.
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Neck Dowel: Make a mark 1 1/4" in from both ends of the neck dowel. Place a mark
in the front/top center of the foam ball for neck placement. (Do not place too far
forward, you do not want him to be top heavy in the front). Insert one end of the dowel
into the pencil mark. Insert your Styrofoam egg head (wide end) onto the dowel with
him facing slightly forward.
Attach Neck and Head: Slice 1/2" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a 1
3/4" coil, wrap around the top of the dowel. Blend into the head and the dowel using a
dab of extender. Slice 1/2" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a 1 13/4" coil,
wrap around the bottom of the dowel. Blend into the body and the dowel using a dab of
extender. Let cure fully for 20-30 minutes.
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Bottom Shoe: Slice 4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll (4) equal balls. Roll
each ball into a 1 3/4" cone. Place the wide end of each cone under a leg dowel with the
pointy end out and slightly to the front. Press them into the QuikWood making sure
your sheep is balanced and level. Pinch the top of each shoe and give them a slight
wave. Let cure fully for 20-30 minutes until cured.
Top Shoe: Slice 2" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll (4) equal balls. Roll each
ball into a 1 3/4" coil and slightly flatten. Wrap around each shoe bottom , joining in the
front center of each shoe.
Shoe Laces: Slice a sliver of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a very thin coil
and slice (8) 1/2" pieces. Insert (2) into each shoe crossing them over each other in a
X. Poke the ends in with your pointy tool or pencil. Let cure for 20-30 minutes.
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Tail: Slice a tiny sliver of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a 1" cone. Place the
wide end on the top back center and blend in the edges. Give your tail a slight twist and
flip to shape. Let cure for 20-30 minutes.
Face: Slice 3/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a ball and begin making
into a hollow cone. Place over the end of the foam egg, blend into the foam smoothing.
Pinch the top ridge of the face with your fingers. Score a V into the front/top of the
face. Score a 1/4" mark straight down from the center of the V. Insert your pointy tool
or pencil into the bottom of the center scored line, and give a slight push down and out.
Eyes: Slice 1/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll (2) equal balls. Roll each ball
into a 3/4" long cone. Place the cones together in the front top center of the face with
the pointy ends up and joining. Slightly flatten the eyes using the pad of your thumb to
avoid finger marks.
Eyelids: Slice 1/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a 1 1/2" long coil and
flatten slightly. Place over the top and sides of the eyes, and blend into the foam only.
Score a mark into the top center of the eyes using your X-ACTO. Let cure for 20-30
minutes.
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Attach Sign: Insert the wooden sign about 1 1/2" deep into the top/center of the back
of the sheep with it facing slightly forward. Slice 1/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare.
Roll into a 1 1/4" coil, wrap around the bottom of the sign, and blend into the foam and
the dowel using a dab of extender. Let cure for 20-30 minutes.
Ears: Slice 3/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll (2) larger balls and (20)
slightly smaller balls. Roll each ball into a cone and flatten slightly. Place the smaller
cones into the center of the larger cones, and give a press on the wider end. Place your
pointy tool or pencil into this flatten space with pointed end free. Wrap the wider end
around the pencil, and place the ears on the side of the head out from the eyes. Shape as
you like. Let cure for 20-30 minutes.
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Hat Rim: Slice 1/2" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a ball and flatten to
approximately 1 1/4" in diameter. Place on the top center of the head pressing the
center to secure.
Hat Band: Slice 1/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a ball and place in
the top center of the hat rim, and press your thumb into the center creating a well.
Top Hat: Slice 1/2" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a tube with one end
slightly thinner, and place the thinner end into the top center of the hat band, and press
slightly to secure. Flatten the top with your finger. Let cure fully for 20-30 minutes.
Collar: Slice 3/4" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll into a 4" coil and flatten
evenly. Slice off each end using your X-ACTO with an angle, giving the ends a point.
Wrap around the neck joining in the front with the points down and out. Poke a hole in
the front center of the collar using your pencil or pointy too. Using the scraps you cut
off the collar, roll a tiny thin coil, and slice off a 1'2" piece and place into the holes of the
collar. Press your pencil into the hole to secure the string. Let cure for 20-30 minutes.
Candy Corn/Turkey Toes: Slice 1" of QuikWood, knead and prepare. Roll
approximately (8) equal balls, and roll each ball into a cone. Flatten each cone slightly.
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Place them randomly around the bottom of the sign going in all directions. Let cure for
20-30 minutes.
Homemade Texture: Mix 1/4" cup of

baking soda, 2T Elmer's white glue, and 2T
white paint to the consistency of icing. I like
using an old paint brush to apply the texture
onto the entire exposed areas of the foam ball
and backs of the ears. Let cure.
Basecoat Light Buttermilk:

Apply (3) coats on the face, head, ears, neck,
andthe tail,allowing ample drying time
between applications. Let dry thoroughly.
Nose and the Lip: Apply two coats of Shading Flesh. Make a 50/50 mix of Light
Buttermilk and Shading Flesh; use this mix to dry brush the inner ears. Let dry.
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Eyes: Paint (3) coats of white on the eyes. Let dry. Paint the outer center of each eye
with (2) coats of Wasabi Green. Let dry. Paint the top center of the Wasabi Green with
(2) coats of Black. Let dry. Paint a Light Hauser Green highlight on the Wasabi Green,
just below the Black. Let dry. Place a White dot in the top center of each, and a small
dot and White highlight stroke on the outer side of each eye. Let dry.
White: Paint (3) coats on the candy corns, collar, and the legs. Let dry.
Black: Paint (2) coats on the body, hat, sign stem, and the shoes. Let dry.
Candy Corn/Turkey Toes: Dry brush Spicy

Mustard on the bottom of each corn using a chip
brush. Let dry. Dry brush the centers of each
corn with Pumpkin Spice. Let dry.
Pumpkin Spice: Paint (3-4) coats on the hatband, collar string, shoe strings. Alternate
Spiced Pumpkin and Spicy Mustard painting stripes on each leg about 3/16" apart. These do
not have to be perfect, I always free hand mine but you could pencil them in.
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Sign: Paint the wood exposed border of the sign with (2) coats of White. Alternate using a
liner brush Spicy Mustard and Pumpkin Spice, going around the entire border. Again, I free
hand them with just the width of my liner brush. Using your liner, clean up the edges using
Black, and paint a Black line between each color. Let dry. Paint the back of the sign Black.
Using an old chip brush and White, dry brush the center of the sign giving it an aged look of
a chalkboard. Let Dry. Trace the lettering using your graphite paper. Paint the lettering
White, using your liner brush and White. Let dry. (You may also free hand your lettering).
Antiquing: I usually water down my antiquing, and cover the entire project. Using a
baby wipe, dab (DO NOT RUB) off the excess antiquing, leaving in where you want it,
especially in all the cracks and crevices. It is a personal preference on how dark or light you
antique, but remember it is easier to put on then take off.
Blush: Apply to cheeks and lips.
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Sparkles: Using a brush, add Glamour Dust to the Candy Corn/Turkey Toes and to
the sign to give some sparkle. Let dry.
Finishing
Sealer: Making sure your project is thoroughly dry, following manufacturers

instructions, apply a light coat of the Polyacrylic Semi-Gloss sealer on the entire project.
Let Dry.
Contact Information:
Wendy Young
E-mail: oldemoonlane@embarqmail.com
Web-Site: www.oldemoonlane.com
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Chickadee Meadow
By Sharon Bond
Any part of the autumn season is always a favorite of mine! I was sort of challenged to do
something a bit more realistic than usual, so I gave it a whirl! Even though I still think it has a bit of
whimsy to it, I really enjoyed doing it! Using DecoArts Media Misters for the background is always
fun!
Copyright 2017 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.
May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.
50
Surface:
Cambridge Plaque Available from www.cdwood.com Item # 31-L509
Project Supplies:
Ultra-fine Permanent Black Marker(s) Such as a Sharpie OR Black PITT Artist Pen,
Superfine or Extra Superfine (for even finer lines) by Faber-Castell.
Small water mister bottle

Burnt Sienna Moon Yellow
Buttermilk Mustard Seed
Canyon Orange Russet
Cashmere Beige Sable Brown
Dark Chocolate Slate Grey
Georgia Clay Soft Black
Hauser Dark Green Tomato Red
Hauser Medium Green Warm White
Lamp Black
Marigold
Media Misters by DecoArt:

Primary Yellow
Orange
Red
Yellow Green
Brushes: Papillon from Artists Club:

Round # 2 - # 20158
Script Liner 10/0 - # 20137
Angle Shader - # 20109
Flat Shader # 6 - # 20127
Drybrush and from their Highlighter Set # 20173
Mediums by DecoArt:
Americana Dry Time Extender (to aid with floating/shading)
Americana Matte Spray Finisher
Americana DuraClear Gloss Varnish (optional)
Sharon talks about Media Misters: The Media Misters will be applied over an opaque, acrylic
basecoat. The rest of the background will be completed using the Media Misters and spritzing of
water. This can be a bit messy, so be sure to have an area prepared for you to mist your colors (lay
down paper towels, etc) I can almost guarantee that no two people will have the same exact
background and this is absolutely fine! You can adjust your colors as you like! Its really just trial
and error until you find what you want! One important thing to remember, the more water you
use, the more the mister colors will bleed and blend. This is not necessarily what I wanted for this
project, so I only misted with water once, in the very beginning. I wanted the misters to look as if
they were part of the scenery, specks of colors, such as leaves in the trees and on the ground, etc.
So Lets Begin!
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Preparation:
Basecoat the plaque with Moon Yellow; two coats may be necessary for opaque coverage. When the
basecoat is completely dry, mist the entire plaque lightly with water. Then mist the entire plaque with
the Media Misters in the following order:
Orange Media Mister, followed by a lighter misting of Primary Yellow
Spritz a bit of the Red Media Mister around the top of the plaque and just a bit at the bottom
Spritz the Yellow Green Media Mister on the bottom half of the plaque only
Spritz a bit more of the Primary Yellow Media Mister directly in the middle of the plaque.
The entire plaque must be completely dry before proceeding. If youre impatient, you can use a hair
dryer to speed up the process.
Remember, no two plaques are going to be exactly alike. If you are not happy about the outcome, let it
dry, rebase and start over! I enjoy working with the Media Misters and think it is a unique way to
create a background.
Once your misters have dried completely, you can transfer on the main design
Painting Instructions:
Background Items: Line the trees with Lamp Black; line the tree branches in Dark Chocolate.
Once the branches are dry, over line them finely with your Black Marker.
Horizon: Shade the division between the sky and the meadow by shading across that area with
Medium Hauser Green.
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Leaves: You can refer to the picture or randomly basecoat your leaves. Basecoat some of them with
Marigold, some with Canyon Orange and some with Georgia Clay. Continue as follows:
Detail the Leaves:
Marigold Leaves: Drybrush with Moon Yellow

and shade down one side with Canyon Orange. With
thinned Canyon Orange, line the veins; once dry,
overline them finely with black marker.
Canyon Orange Leaves: Drybrush with Marigold
and shade down one side with Georgia Clay. With
thinned Georgia Clay, line the veins and then once
dry, overline them finely with black marker.
Georgia Clay Leaves: Drybrush with Canyon
Orange and shade down one side with Tomato Red.
With thinned Russet, line the veins and once dry,
overline them finely with black marker.
To finish the leaves, thin Burnt Sienna and add a few dots of this color along the shaded edges of both
the Marigold leaves and the Canyon Orange leaves. Use thinned Russet to do add dots to the Georgia
Clay leaves. All leaves are finely outlined in Black (or use your marker).
Fence Post: Basecoat with Dark Chocolate. Although one coat may appear streaky,
its okay; just let this dry. For the next step, we will be wet brushing primarily with
Dark Chocolate and Sable; but will also be adding Lamp Black and Cashmere Beige.
Start with Dark Chocolate and Sable Brown, using both colors while they remain wet,
brushing them up and down on the post. They will streak and some will blend this
is the effect we want! Shade a little Black on the left side of the post and streak a bit
of this on the post as well. Shade a bit of Cashmere Beige down the right side of the
post and blend this in as well. I also stroked a bit more of the Sable Brown and
Cashmere Beige at the top of the post. Once dry, finely outline the post in Black and
add a few Black lines of detail on the post.
Chickadee: Basecoat Buttermilk; drybrush

with Warm White. Basecoat tail feathers and
wing tip solidly with Slate Grey. Add a bit of
thinned Warm White to the tips of his tail
feathers. Outline the tail feathers and wing tip with Black. Add a
few thinned lines of Slate Grey to the wing, and then add a few
detail lines with Black. Shade the entire (marked) area under his
wing with Moon Yellow. Reinforce this shading closest to the
wing with Marigold. I also added a few squiggly lines of thinned
Marigold through this section. Finely outline with Black to
separate this area from his chest and belly. I added a few thinned
lines of Slate Grey going up the right side and into his chest and
belly. Finely outline this section in Black as well.
With Lamp Black, create the cap on top of his head and his neck
area underneath. His beak is solid Slate Grey and finely outlined
in Black. Basecoat his eye solidly with Sable Brown; the pupil is
solid Black. I added a fine, thinned line of Warm White to his eye
and the top of his beak. I also added a tiny highlight dot to his eye with Warm White.
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Grass: Before painting the flowers, using a liner, add a few tall grasses with thinned Hauser Dark
Green.
Flowers: Basecoat the stems and leaves solidly with Hauser Medium Green. Add a few thinned lines
of Marigold to the tops of the leaves and a few thinned lines of Hauser Dark Green to the bottom side
of the leaves. Finely outline all in Black.
Flower Petals: Basecoat solidly in Mustard Seed. You may need to

apply two coats depending on how thick you apply the first coat. I
apply mine pretty heavily starting at the end of the petal and going
towards the center with one stroke. Once the petals are dry, accent
(from the center out) with thinned lines of Canyon Orange. Then
accent petals with thinned Moon Yellow from the tips of the petals
towards the centers. Finely outline the petals with Black (I used my
marker for this!) I also added a few fine lines of Black from the center
out on the petals.
Centers: Base solidly with Dark Chocolate; then dab a bit more Dark
Chocolate over the centers and while wet, dab Black over the centers
as well. While still damp, dab a tiny bit of Marigold to highlight the
centers, then let this all dry. If you like, you can go back and dot Black
around each center to strengthen. I also added just a few tiny dots of
Marigold over the highlighted part of the centers.
Barbed Wire: First, shade Soft Black where the wire will be; then
line the barbed wire over this area with your Black marker (or finely
line with thinned Black paint.)
Finishing:
Once we have finished, we will need to seal our project. Following the manufacturers instructions,
apply several coats of Americanas Matte Spray Finisher, allowing ample drying time between
applications. If you want, you can add a bit of Americanas DuraClear Gloss Varnish to the
Chickadees eye and beak.
I hope you enjoyed this project! It was a lot of fun for me!
Sharon B
54
Copyright 2017 Painted by Me, Sharon B - Photocopying or mechanical reproduction is strictly prohibited.
May be painted for fun or profit, but no mass production.
55
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57
Chinese Lanterns
By Linda Lineman
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In the fall, the colors of Chinese Lantern flowers are striking to see among the green foliage. Their
colors range from very pale to intense orange/red blossoms. Whether bursting with intensity in
your garden, displayed in a vase or painted and framed, these flowers are a wonderful decoration.
Editors note: Although Linda painted her design on an 8 Mason jar ornament, it is with her
permission that the cover shot was edited. I wanted our readers to admire the blossoms without the
distraction of the surface upon which it is painted. I can envision this lovely floral group on any
number of alternate surfaces. SM
Supplies
Surface:
8 Mason Jar, #31-L397; available from www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies:
Standard Acrylic Painting Tools
Royal & Langnickel White Transfer Paper
Scissors
Ball Stylus
Scotch tape
Sea Sponge
Paints: DecoArt American Acrylics

Baby Blue Georgia Clay
Bright Orange Hauser Dark Green
Burnt Sienna Hauser Med. Green
Burnt Umber Orange Twist
Buttermilk Oxblood
Citron Green Snow (Titanium) White
Foliage Green True Ochre

Brushes by Royal & Langnickel
Square Shader SG75W
#10 Royal Soft Grip; SG152
#6 Synthetic Sable Shader; Soft Grip SG75S
#4 & 2 SG1150; Sable Shader; Soft Grip
Soft Grip Scrip Liner MSGE585-2
Mediums:
DecoArt Americana Matte Spray DAS13
Preparation
If the wood is rough, lightly sand the surface; wipe dust away prior to painting.
59
Background: With a slightly damp sea sponge and Baby Blue, apply
color to the sky area; tap on the clouds with Snow White.
Ground Area: Load a slightly damp sea

sponge first with Hauser Medium Green and
dab in some color. Add Hauser Dark Green to
the sponge and continue to apply color until
you are pleased with the ground area.
Screw Lid: Basecoat with True Ochre; shade

with Burnt Umber and highlight with
Buttermilk. Once you are pleased with the
separations, add a watered down wash with
Burnt Umber to form the lid.
Transfer the line drawing using Royal, White Transfer Paper.
Light Orange Flowers: Paint the blossoms in the direction they grow, this
will help give a true shape. Basecoat with Bright Orange; using a corner load,
shade with Oxblood and use a liner to add the highlight with Orange Twist.
Stems: Base some with Foliage Green and others with Hauser Medium Green.
Shadow with Hauser Dark Green & Highlight with Citron Green. These plants
have very sturdy straight stems.
Leaves: Begin adding in leaves, some with

Hauser Medium and others with Foliage Green. When I paint the
leaves I base coat them with the medium color and while still wet I corner
load the brush with the darker color & blend wet on wet. Acrylics dry
quickly, so work one or two leaves at a time. Move to the next couple of
leaves and continue.
After most of the leaves are complete, look at

them to see where the highlights should go and
float on the highlight color.
Darker Flowers: Remember to paint the

blossoms in the direction they grow. Basecoat with Georgia Clay; use a corner
load of Oxblood to shade on some of them and on others; use a corner load of
Burnt Sienna. Next, use a liner brush to add Orange Twist for the highlights.
Accents & Details: Be sure to sign your piece!
Finishing: Following manufacturers instructions, apply several coats of Deco

Art Americana Matte Finish
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Linda says, Have fun painting these colorful flowers. In your
garden, the blossoms actually darken as they age. Its important to
vary the colors of the buds, even on the same stems.
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Birds of the Sea
Summers by the sea !
Great instruction packet with color step
by steps.
Stencils * Brushes * Patterns * Paints *

Chipboard
And so much more
www.maureen-baker.com
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Fall Bounty
By Shara Reiner, CDA
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This wonderful, reversible surface is side one of a two part series! This month, Shara presents our
readers with a bounty-full painting of fall goodies!
Supplies
Surface
Wood Sign with Metal Legs; available at Painters Paradise, www.paintersparadise.com
Project Supplies:
Standard Acrylic Painting Tools
Water Base Varnish of Choice

Black Plum Khaki Tan
Blue Mist Primary Yellow
Camel Reindeer Moss Green
Country Red Spice Pink
Deep Midnight Blue Tangelo Orange
Foliage Green True Ochre
Honey Brown Warm White
Hauser Medium Green Whispering Turquoise
Brushes:
Flat brushes in good condition in sizes 6-20
Mop brush, 3/4 size
Scharff #1 Liner, Series 455
Preparation:
Plaque: Apply two coats of Black Plum, if necessary, sand lightly between coats.
Base: Apply two coats of Blue Mist, if necessary, sand lightly between coats.
Sharas Secret: In this project, I use the "mother color theory ". The background is Black Plum
and I use this color to shade most everything. This process will make everything go together.
Instructions
Basket: Undercoat the basket and handle one coat Camel.

When dry, apply two coats True Ochre. Add pattern. With
Black Plum and side load, shade under each horizontal
weave. Shade each side of the vertical stays. Shade on
handle next to basket, next to ribbon pattern, and next to
apple pattern.
Highlight each stay and weave with Camel. Do a second

highlight if needed with a tad of Warm White added to
Camel. With liner and Black Plum, add a small dark area on
the top of each weave next to each stay. Use pattern and
picture as a guide. Nail is Black with a highlight of Gray,
(Black plus Warm White).
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Ground: Allowing some of the Black Plum to show through, dry brush on ground with
Khaki Tan.
Pumpkin: Base Tangelo Orange, shade with Black Plum and highlight with Primary Yellow.
You may have to highlight more than one time.
Stem: Reindeer Moss Green, shade with Black Plum. Tendrils are liner of Reindeer Moss Green plus
a tad Black Plum. Add some Warm White to this mix to lighten.
Apple: Base Country Red, shade Deep Burgundy and add a second shade with Black Plum. (Be
careful with Black Plum as it can turn your apple rotten really fast.)
Highlight first with Tangelo Orange, add a tad Primary Yellow to Tangelo Orange for second highlight
and finish with Primary Yellow. Apple is a shiny fruit, so your highlight can be stronger.
Stem: Hauser Medium Green, shade Black Plum and highlight with Foliage Green.
Leaves: Hauser Medium Green, shade with Black Plum and highlight with Foliage Green. Veins are
Foliage Green.
Corn: I used an 8-10 flat brush and put the kernels in with a stroke of Camel. When dry, I used colors
from palette to accent random kernels. (Use pattern and picture as a guide.) Shade between rows and
outside edges with Black Plum.
Outside Husks: Honey Brown, shade Black Plum, highlight with Camel. Add a few "silk" hairs with
slightly thinned Camel and a fine liner.
Bittersweet: Stems are Espresso. Dot berries are Tangelo Orange with smaller dot on top of
Primary Yellow.
Bow: Base Blue Wisp, shade first with Deep Midnight Blue and re-shade with Black Plum. Highlight
with Whispering Turquoise. Dots are thin Whispering Turquoise and liner brush.
69
Entwined Leaves and Stems: Hauser Medium Green, highlight Foliage Green. Berries are Spice
Pink, shade thin with Deep Burgundy, and highlight with Warm White.
Grapes: I use finger dots with Blue Wisp and dot grapes on; these take time to dry. If you prefer, you
could base coat your grapes with Blue Wisp. Shade grapes with Deep Midnight Blue and highlight
with Whispering Turquoise. Add a small shine dot of Warm White.
Cherries: Base Country Red, shade Deep Burgundy and highlight with Spice Pink. Shine is Spice
Pink with a very small amount of Warm White.
Stems: Hauser Medium Green, shade Black Plum and highlight with Foliage Green.
Leaves: Hauser Medium Green, shade with Black Plum and highlight with Foliage Green. Veins are
Foliage Green. Using thin Foliage Green and the liner, embellish leaves with random dots.
Lettering: Base Blue Wisp, add a little shading with Deep Midnight Blue, highlight Whispering
Turquoise. I use a dry liner brush to "drag" highlight on. With Black Plum, I added a shade around
right side of some letters.
Finishing: Varnish with your favorite water base varnish.
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Canned Turkey
By Chris Haughey
Just a slightly different way to deliver a Turkey Dinner with all the fixins!
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Supplies
All supplies and materials available at Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com 937-652-3338
Surface:
Squatty Mason Jar Plaque 8- x 6- 31-L533
Project Supplies:
Halftone (Dot) Stencil; 09-09433
Rusty 22 Gauge Hanging Wire; 11-53513
2 Ply Jute Twine; 11-JT2
Black Graphite Paper; 28-31011
Canary Tracing Paper; 28-03838
Double-Ended Stylus; 03-11183
Medium Mop; 03-M77MM-M
Mono Zero Eraser; 18-57305
Painters Tape; 16-03680
Sandpaper Pack (Extra Fine); 29-12347
Specialty Sponge Set of 2; 29-32227

Cashmere Beige Moon Yellow
Country Red Persimmon
Foliage Green Plantation Pine
Heritage Brick Snow White
Lemonade Soft Black
Light Cinnamon Spiced Pumpkin
Light Mocha Warm White
Mediums by DecoArt
Americana Matte Sealer/ Finish Spray; 13-41370
Multi Purpose Sealer; 13-07930
Sure Touch Taklon Brushes by Jo Sonja

Angle, , ; Series 1345
Filbert, # 6, #10; Series 1385
Oval Drybrush, #6; Series 201o
Oval Wash, ; Series 1318
Round, #4; Series 1350
Script Liner, 5/0; Series 1365
Shader, #6; Series 1370
Stencil Brush, #5; 03-205-5
Preparation:
Using the large specialty sponge, seal surface with Multi-Purpose Sealer;
lightly sand and wipe clean. With same sponge, basecoat Warm White.
Center dot stencil on surface and secure with painters tape. Load stencil
brush with Light Mocha, wipe excess on a paper towel and stencil dots to cover
entire background.
74
Transfer the main pattern lines using the graphite paper and stylus. Transfer details as needed.
Jar:
Float Light Cinnamon across top of jar and around outer edges. Float Light Cinnamon above and
below top ridge (just below lid). Highlight center of ridge with Warm White and add Snow White
highlights on the left and center to brighten.
Turkey: Base body and head Cashmere Beige; float Light Cinnamon below hat,
down right side of neck, right side and bottom of body. With Light Cinnamon,
shade along bottom of (bent) back thigh, left side of body and below pumpkin.
Highlight left side of face, neck, back leg, and center tummy area with Light
Mocha; brighten highlights with a light dry brush Warm White in the same areas.
Deepen shading down right side of neck and along the bottom of turkey with
thinned Soft Black.
Legs: Paint legs and feet Moon Yellow. Shade left sides with Light Cinnamon.
Load script liner with thinned Heritage Brick to line horizontal stripes on legs and
toes. (Feet do not get stripes) With same brush, pull a strong Snow White
highlight down right sides, across knees and toes.
Face: Undercoat the beak Moon Yellow; shade bottom and right side with
Light Cinnamon. Highlight top of beak with Warm White; line mouth and
paint nostrils Soft Black.
Waddle: Undercoat with Moon Yellow and topcoat with Country Red; shade
bottom and right side with Heritage Brick. Paint a Snow White comma stroke
at the bottom left. Basecoat eyes Snow White. Paint iris Moon Yellow. Shade
Light Cinnamon along the bottom and up the right side of each. With stylus,
dip dot pupils Soft Black. Paint eyelids Cashmere Beige. Float Light
Cinnamon around outside of entire eye (including eyelids) and down each side
of eyelids. Highlight centers of eyelids with Warm White.
Load angle with thinned Soft Black and float a tiny shadow below eyelid.
Load script liner with same color and line across bottom of eyelid, painting
eyelashes and adding eyebrows.
Add a tiny Snow White dip dot on the top left
of each pupil.
Wings: Base feathers Light Mocha, blending into body area at the
bottom. Load script liner with Light Cinnamon to line feather
sections. Paint wide stripes Country Red. Pull Persimmon from outer
edges towards centers to brighten. Paint smaller stripes Spiced
Pumpkin. Shade Light Cinnamon between, down centers and along
bottom sides of each feather. Deepen shading between feathers with
thinned Soft Black.
Hat:
Basecoat hat Light Cinnamon. Shade brim around face, and right side of crown with Soft Black. Paint
hat band Moon Yellow and topcoat with Spiced Pumpkin. Darken right side with Persimmon.
Buckle is Moon Yellow. Line bottom and right sides of buckle with Light Cinnamon; highlight top and
left sides with Snow White. Highlight top of brim and left side of crown with Light Mocha. Brighten
highlights on brim with Warm White.
75
Pumpkin: Undercoat pumpkin with Moon Yellow and topcoat with
Spiced Pumpkin. Shade along bottom and down both sides of valleys on
each section with Heritage Brick. Highlight raised areas with Moon
Yellow. With oval drybrush and Warm White, brighten highlights and
add a strong Snow White comma stroke. Deepen shading along the
bottom with thinned Soft Black.
Stem: Basecoat Cashmere Beige. Load toe of angle with Light

Cinnamon to float down right sides and create ridges in stem. Highlight
left side with Warm White. Load script liner with thinned Light
Cinnamon to paint vines. Double load 10 filbert with Foliage Green and
Plantation Pine to paint leaves. Press down, keeping Plantation Pine
towards bottom of leaf, twist brush a quarter and pull out to a pointed tip. Highlight top or left sides
of leaves with Lemonade. Tint highlights sparingly with thinned Heritage Brick.
Oak Leaves:
Undercoat oak leaves Moon Yellow and topcoat
with Spiced Pumpkin. Shade down centers,
along bottom and outer edges with Persimmon.
Deepen shading with Heritage Brick. Brighten
tips with Moon Yellow. Float transparent Soft
Black shadows below and along the outer sides
of leaves.
Acorns: Paint nut section of acorns Cashmere

Beige. Shade along bottom sides and below caps with Light Cinnamon. Highlight centers and top
sides with Light Mocha. Brighten highlights with a drybrush of Snow White. Paint caps Light
Cinnamon, shade along bottom and right sides with Soft Black. Load script liner with thinned Light
Mocha to paint cross hatching on caps. Drybrush a Warm White highlight across the caps.
Float a transparent Soft Black shadow below and between each acorn.
Tip: Letting the strokes and details be loose eliminates stiffness. For example, the
bittersweet berry center is defined, but the outer husks are simple strokes of color.
Even though the strokes are loose, they are not messy. Good control and placement
with intent will accomplish the goal!
Bittersweet: Load script liner with thinned Soft Black to paint bittersweet vines. Using handle end
of small brush, dip dot centers of berries with Moon Yellow. Double load script liner with Spiced
Pumpkin and Moon Yellow to dab outer berry husks around centers.
Add a tiny Snow White highlight in the top left of each berry center.
Double load 6 filbert with Foliage Green and Plantation Pine. Press down, keeping Plantation Pine
towards bottom of leaf, twist brush a quarter and pull out to a pointed tip. Highlight left and tops of
leaves with Lemonade.
Lid: Basecoat Cashmere Beige; shade across bottom edges of each ridge using Light Cinnamon.
Deepen shading and float below lid with thinned Soft Black. Highlight top and left side of each ridge
section using Light Mocha. Brighten highlights on centers and left sides with Warm White and add
stronger highlights with Snow White.
Finishing:
Paint edges and back of plaque Soft Black. Spray seal with several light coats of Matte Spray Varnish.
Tie Jute Twine around lid. If youd like, add fall foliage to embellish.
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Fall Favorites
By Elisabetta de Maria
Dearest painting friends, I present to you my new project Fall Favorites, designed on the
surface I love the most - wood! I imagined an intensely colored autumn composition resting on a
surface in front of a softly patterned tapestry backdrop. My hope was to convey an intimate
collection filled with warmth. Happy painting!
Supplies
Surface:
Arched Board, approximately 8.5 x 12, or similar surface
Project Supplies:
Flourish Stencil #THS032, by Tim Holtz
Ball Stylus
Fine Sandpaper
Standard Acrylic Painting Supplies
Lint Free Cloth
Antique Maroon French Grey Blue

Antique White Graphite
Bittersweet Chocolate Heritage Brick
Black Plum Honey Brown
Burnt Orange Lamp Black
Burnt Sienna Light Buttermilk
Burnt Umber Light French Blue
Camel Mink Tan
78
Paynes Grey Soft Black
Primary Yellow Tangelo Orange
Raw Sienna Titanium White
Russet Torrid Orange
Sand Traditional Burnt Umber
Mediums:
All Purpose Sealer of Choice
Varnish of Choice
Brushes:
Assorted Size Flats for Basecoating
Assorted Size Angulars for Floating
Dome Brush for Dry-brushing
Assorted Size Fine Liners
Mop Brush to Blend and Soften Color
Painting Techniques
Basecoat: Opaque application of background color on surface or component.

Shading and Highlighting: Load a small amount of paint in the corner of an Angle Brush,
stroke the brush back and forth on the palette paper until most of the paint is out of the
brush. It is important that the color be worked in the brush until it is completely
transparent. Apply as if walking out a float of color. Repeat if necessary and use the Mop brush
to blend the color.
Drybrush: I use brushes that are dome shaped, rounded and have shorter hairs.
Dip the brush into the paint and then wipe the brush on a dry paper towel , rotating the
brush until only a residue of paint remains. Move to the surface, use a light pressure and
begin scrubbing the paint out of the brush, slowly, in a small circular motion.
Work the paint outward, allowing it to diminish so that there is a gradation of color.
Instructions
Using a large brush, apply a coat of sealer and let dry. Sand raised grain with fine sand paper and
remove dust with a lint free clot.
Transfer only the main pattern lines; details will be added as necessary.
Background: Basecoat Antique White. Position stencil and with dome brush, stencil flourish
design with Sand. Shade around the outer edge and above the floor line with Mink Tan. Deepen
with Traditional Burnt Umber; further strengthen with Soft Black.
Floor: Basecoat Heritage Brick + Russet; shade with Black Plum.

Deepen with Soft Black and further strengthen with Lamp Black.
Bucket: Basecoat with Light French Blue; shade with French Grey
Blue. Deepen with Graphite and further strengthen with Payne's Gray
and later with Soft Black. Highlight with a dry brush of Snow White;
soften edges with a dry brush of Raw Sienna.
Bucket Handle: Basecoat Antique White; shade with Mink Tan

and reinforce with Soft Black. Highlight with Tangelo Orange and
brighten with Light Buttermilk.
Wire Hook and Handle: Soft Black
79
Pitcher: Basecoat with Burnt Sienna and Shade with Antique
Maroon. Deepen shading with Bittersweet Chocolate and then with
Soft Black. Highlight with Burnt Orange and subsequently with
Torrid Orange. Add Details with Raw Sienna.
Pumpkin:
Basecoat with Burnt Orange and shade with Heritage Brick. Deepen
with Black Plum. Highlight with Tangelo Orange and strengthen with
Torrid Orange.
Stem: Raw Sienna; shade with
Traditional Burnt Umber and highlight
with Honey Brown
Basket: Basecoat with Raw Sienna and highlight with Camel;

brighten highlight with Primary Yellow. Shade With Burnt Orange
and deepen with Burnt Umber. Accent the basket edge with
Light Buttermilk.
Fall: Line with Soft Black.
Finishing: Varnish as desired.
I hope you Enjoy Painting this as much as I did!

Happy Painting
Elisabetta.
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Freckles and her Pumpkins
By Deb Mishima
Who says the guardian of a pumpkin patch has to be scary? Certainly, not me! Freckles, a little
autumn sprite, keeps the baby punkins safely hidden beneath her gauzy gown!
82
Supplies
Surface
8 x 12 Henry MDF Plaque; available from Cupboard Distributing; www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies:
Spooky Halloween Background Word Art, #STCL694-1; http://creativeartslifestyle.com
Ball Stylus
Spider Web Stamp (Optional)
Paper Flower (Optional)
Scrap Lace for Bow (Optional)
Small Button (Optional)
Aleenes Tacky Glue
Paints: DecoArt American Acrylics

Asphaltum Moon Yellow
Celery Green Raw Sienna
Desert Sand Rookwood Red
French Grey Blue True Ochre
French Mauve Warm White
Hauser Medium Green Winter Blue
Lamp Black
Light Buttermilk DecoArt Chalky Finish
Light Mocha Inheritance
Mocha Timeless
Mediums by DecoArt
DecoArt Matte Medium
DecoArt All Purpose Sealer Spray
DecoArt Metallic Lustre Wax Metallic Finish, Gold Rush
Brushes: Dynasty Brushes

Black Gold Series
Flat 206FW
#10 Flat 206S,
10/0 Liner
Angles, , and 3/8
Assorted Blenders and Mop Brushes
Palmer 538FIL 2
Preparation
If necessary, lightly sand the surface; apply one coat of All Purpose Sealer, sand to remove raised
grain.
Background:
Basecoat surface with DecoArt Chalky Finish, Timeless. Stencil the background with Spooky Stencil
and Light Buttermilk. When dry, Antique the background using Asphaltum and a damp cloth, wipe
over surface; while still wet, wipe of excess.
Stamp or line spider webs with Lamp Black.
83
Brush surface with DecoArt Matte Medium to seal, allow to dry and then transfer main pattern lines.
Float shade around main pattern using Asphaltum.
Girl
Face & Arms: Basecoat Light Mocha, shade Mocha and
drybrush cheeks French Mauve. Dot freckles Asphaltum.
Dot mouth Rookwood Red. Line nose Asphaltum. Line
and dot eyes Lamp Black and dot pupils Warm White.
Hair: Base Asphaltum. Line hair whisps Lamp Black
and Warm White. Line ponytails Asphaltum, Lamp
Black and Warm White. Line bows Lamp Black and
Warm White. Line bangs Lamp Black.
Hat
Base Lamp Black; drybrush Warm White to soften.
Highlight along brim of hat Warm White. Line underside
of hat Warm White. Dot and line stars Moon Yellow.
Base band and bow Winter Blue. Shade French Grey Blue.
Drybrush Warm White to highlight shape. Line and dot Moon Yellow.
Socks
Line stripes Moon Yellow; shade True Ochre and Winter
Blue, shade French Grey Blue. Line between stripes Warm
White. Base shoes Lamp Black. Highlight with Warm White
along toe of shoes. Dot flower Moon Yellow. Line bows
Lamp Black.
Dress
Basecoat Desert Sand; shade True Ochre and deepen
shading with Raw Sienna. Drybrush Light Buttermilk.
Deepen drybrushing DecoArt Chalky Finish, Inheritance.
Drybrush brighter highlights DecoArt Metallic Lustre,
Gold Rush.
Lines flowing from top and along hem are Warm White.
Dot hem Warm White and Asphaltum
84
Sunflower on Bodice: Although concealed by the dimensional flower, button and bow, the pattern
shows placement of a sunflower on the dress bodice. Basecoat Moon Yellow; shade True Ochre. Base
center Asphaltum; dot Lamp Black.
Pumpkins: Basecoat DecoArt Chalky Finish,

Inheritance; shade Raw Sienna and drybrush Warm
White. Drybrush and brighten highlights with DecoArt
Metallic Lustre, Gold Rush. Base stems Asphaltum.
Line leaves and vines Hauser Medium Green.
Highlight a line Warm White along vines.
Spiders: Basecoat and line Lamp Black. Remember,

spiders have four legs on each side! Dot eyes Warm
White.
Grasses: Drybrush grasses Celery Green; drybrush

again Hauser Medium Green; deepen dry brushing
Black Green. Line grasses Celery Green; line again
Hauser Medium Green.
Finishing
Make a bow with the scrap piece of lace. Glue button onto center of lace and bow onto paper flower.
Glue onto dress front. (This will conceal the painted sunflower)
Spray surface with DecoArt All Purpose Sealer Spray.
85
86
Gobble!
By MaryJo Tuttle
Meet Gobble, a little Thanksgiving turkey that can adorn a seasonal wreath or sit happily upon your
holiday table.
87
Supplies
Surface:
Large Round Ornament with Crown; 7.25 x 8; Cabin Crafters #102166
Project Supplies:
Drywall Tape
Makeup Wedge Sponge
Standard Acrylic Supplies

Burlap DA319 Orange Flame DA315
Burnt Orange DA016 Oyster Beige DA313
Burnt Umber DA064 Persimmon DA293
Fiery Red (Neons) DHS4 Primary Yellow DA201
Foliage Green DA269 Red Alert DA301
Georgia Clay DA017 Soft Black DA155
Heritage Brick DA219 Spiced Pumpkin DA310
Lamp Black DA067 Spicy Mustard DA284
Leaf Green DA051 Warm White DA239
Margarita DA299 Extreme Sheen
Mississippi Mud DA094 24K Gold DPM04
Mediums by DecoArt
Multi-Purpose Sealer
DuraClear Soft Touch Varnish
Brushes: Dynasty Black Gold

Angle, size 1/2; 3/8
Flat Wash, size 3/4
Script Liner, size 5/0
Shader, size 4, 8, 10
Mezzaluna, size Medium; Large (for drybrushing)
Loew-Cornell Brushes
Maxine Thomas Mop, Series 270, size 3/8; 1/2
Preparation:
Sand and seal the piece with MultiPurpose Sealer. Sand again and wipe
away sanding dust with a damp cloth. Transfer the main pattern lines.
Basecoat as Follows:
Tail Feathers: Mississippi Mud; position drywall tape, use makeup

wedge and Burlap to stencil checks on tail feathers.
Body: Burlap
Large Pennies: Lamp Black
Small, Yellow Pennies: Spicy Mustard
Small, Orange Pennies: Persimmon
Small, Green Pennies: Foliage Green
88
Hatband: Foliage Green
Hat: Soft Black
Buckle: 24K Gold
Pumpkin Stems: Foliage Green
Pumpkin on Right: Persimmon
Middle Pumpkin: Burnt Orange
Pumpkin on Left: Spiced Pumpkin
Sign: Oyster Beige
Shade: Shade the body, under the hat, down both sides, above the
pumpkins and around the sign with Mississippi Mud. Deepen the shading
on the body under the hat, above & below the sign, and above the pumpkins with Burnt Umber.
Highlight: Dry brush the center of the face and body with Oyster Beige.
Cheeks: Blush the cheeks with Persimmon. Add a small highlight dot with Warm White.
Transfer the pattern for the beak & wattle.
Beak: Basecoat with Spicy Mustard; shade the top of the beak with Persimmon and highlight the tip
with Primary Yellow.
Wattle: Basecoat with Red Alert. Shade the wattle to separate and on the left side of the large
portion. Highlight the right sides of the wattle with Fiery Red.
Eyes: Lamp Black; add small dot highlights with Warm White.
Sign: Shade both ends of the sign with Mississippi Mud and
highlight the center with Warm White. Outline and line the
word Gobble with Lamp Black. Line the wire holding the sign
with Lamp Black and dash a highlight of Oyster Beige along it.
Tail Feathers: Shade the feathers against the body and to
separate with Burnt Umber. Deepen the shading against the
body with Soft Black. Highlight the center of the tail feathers with a drybrush of Oyster Beige.
Pennies Details:
Shade the bottom of the yellow pennies with
Persimmon & highlight the top with Primary
Yellow; shade the bottom of the green pennies
with Leaf Green and highlight the top with
Margarita; and shade the bottom of the orange
pennies with Heritage Brick and highlight the top
with Orange Flame. Add the stitches on the small pennies with Lamp Black and on the large pennies
with Oyster Beige.
Stitches: The stitches between the feathers and the wide line around
the outside of the feathers are Lamp Black.
Hat: Shade on both sides, under the hatband and under the brim
with Lamp Black. Highlight the center of the hat and brim with a
drybrush of Oyster Beige. Shade the hatband on both sides, both
sides of the buckle and on the left side inside the buckle with Leaf
Green. Highlight the open areas and the right side inside the
buckle with Margarita.
89
Pumpkin Stems: Shade at the base and in the
opening at the top with Leaf Green, and highlight with
Margarita.
Pumpkins: Shade the pumpkins to separate the
sections as follows:
Left Pumpkin: Persimmon
Center Pumpkin: Heritage Brick
Right Pumpkin: Georgia Clay.
Highlight all of the pumpkins with Orange Flame and
then with Primary Yellow.
Details: The background shading around the turkey and along the ground line is Persimmon.
Reinforce the shading on the ground with Burnt Umber. Highlight the outer edge of the top with
Primary Yellow.
Outline as desired and add the decorative line around the top with Lamp Black.
Finishing:
Following manufacturers instructions for drying time between applications, finish with 2 coats of
DuraClear Soft Touch Varnish.
90
91
Leafy Cell Phone Stand
By Sandra Goodale
I truly enjoy painting designs inspired by nature. This functional cell phone holder is painted using
brush mixed colors and often times, a dirty brush. Just relax and enjoy the experience as you
loosely capture the essence of twisted branches and curving leaves in this fall design.
92
Supplies
Surface
2 Piece, Slotted, Cell Phone Stand; #RR1111; available at Stockade: http://www.stockade.ca/
Supplies:
Usual Acrylic Painting Supplies
Paint: DecoArt American Acrylics

Asphaltum
Black
Bleached Sand
Burnt Umber
Honey Brown
Paynes Grey
Plantation Pine
Slate Grey
Zinc
Mediums by DecoArt:
Americana Multi- Purpose Sealer
Dura Clear Satin Varnish
Brushes By Royal & Langnickle

Moderna
Dagger; # ; #M776
Oval Mop;# ; #R4950
Majestic
Filbert; #4 and #8; Series #4100t
Bright; #8; Series #4100B
Round; #4; Series #4250R
Round; #5/0; Series #4595R
Liner; #2; Series 4595
Sandra says, This design was painted loosely with brush mixes and usually with a dirty brush.
Relax, enjoy and have fun.
Preparation
Sand the surface lightly and apply one coat of sealer. Dry and sand again. Basecoat with a mix of Slate
Grey, Zinc, and Asphaltum; this should be streaky application, painted from the top, down.
Instructions:
Trees: Trace and transfer on the two large trees. Brush load your #4 Round into Zinc and Slate Grey,
add some lines between the trees to represent twigs, and background trees. (See photo)
93
The details on the large trees are painted with a brush mix of Zinc and Asphaltum. Use the #4 bright
on the chisel edge, and starting on the left side of the trunk, pull short, choppy strokes (as if you are
walking down the stairs), one stroke and a time. When you reach the bottom, go back to the top, move
slightly to the right and repeat. The right side of the tree should be the lightest. Now, add some
Honey Brown into Slate Grey, use your dagger loaded in Asphaltum and Raw Umber, pulling a float
on the left side of the lines. Load Filbert with Bleached Sand and drag some short choppy strokes
across from side to side of the dark lines. The strokes will be horizontal.
Turn your piece sideways and stroke between the dark lines with Slate Grey, from line to line; repeat
with Bleached Sand. To create some depth in the bark, turn your piece upright and add some darks
here and there, near the stokes you just painted, using some Black and Raw Umber, be careful, not too
darken too deeply. Thin Paynes Grey to a wash and float this on the background right next to the
large trees. This will push the background back and will help to push the large trees forward.
Leaves: Transfer on the leaves. Begin to base them in with a mix of Plantation Pine and Asphaltum.
Now remove your graphite lines. Continue to play with the leaves adding different color loads in
different areas. This will give you a more natural look. Try using Honey Brown with Plantation Pine
at times, Slate Grey and Raw Umber at other times. Your highlights will be Bleached Sand.
Veins: Use a liner and any of the palette colors; float along some of the veins with colors from the
dark mixes; accent with some of your lights.
94
Details: If you think the background is still too bright, add another wash of Paynes Grey to push it
back and to soften. You can also add a light wash of this to the trees. This will push the large tress
back behind the leaves. To bring the leaves forward, more in front of the trunks, load your brush into
some of your darks and shade behind the leaves where they cross in front of the tree trunks. The same
with any branches as well; continue to add darks and lights here and there.
I hope you enjoyed the free brush mix style of painting; thanks for painting with me. Sandra
95
96
Salem Crow Company
By Betty Bowers
I love designing for fall; bold orange pumpkins, interesting textures and colors practically changing
before your eyes.
Supplies
Surface:
Moon Board Plaque, #31-205; available from www.cdwood.com
Project Supplies
Crow Stencil; available from www.bettybowersdownhome.com
Basic Acrylic Supplies
Sanding Disc
Tack Cloth
Small Sea Sponge
19 Gauge Wire
Old Tooth Brush
Ball Stylus

Asphaltum Moon Yellow
Black Plum Olive Green
Bleached Sand, Plantation Pine
Burnt Orange Rookwood Red
Canyon Orange Soft Black
Driftwood Traditional Raw Umber (TRU)
Lamp Black
97
Brushes: Papillon by Artist Club Mediums by DecoArt
#10, Shader, Style 20130 Matte Spray Sealer
#20 Flat Shader, Style 20134 All Purpose Sealer
#2 Shader, Style #20125
Angular, Style #20111
Angular. Style 20109
#6 Filbert, Style 20118
18/0 & # 1 Liner, 20144
Deerfoot Stippler
Preparation
If needed, lightly sand wood and remove dust. Mix Olive Green and with Deco Art All Purpose Sealer,
(1:1) and basecoat surface with the #20 flat brush. Let dry.
Wet the sea sponge with clean water, squeeze out excess, leaving the sponge still wet, but not drippy.
Lightly moisten the surface with water, using the sea sponge, so that there is a sheen. Dip the sea
sponge into Olive Green and pounce on palette to load paint into sponge. Using a pouncing motion,
sponge color onto surface; reload sponge with paint or water as needed. You want the surface to stay
moist.
Using the dirty sponge, pick up Canyon Orange, blend on palette, and then pounce onto the surface,
keep color more to the left and right of the center circle. Do not add orange to center.
Next, pick up TRU, sponge around the outer edge of the plaque and the around the edge of the circle.
Remember, to keep sponge moist.
Allow to dry and then determine if you need to repeat any of the colors.
Use ball stylus and graphite to lightly trace on the main pattern lines.
Painting instructions:
Note: I will use the abbreviation TRU for Traditional Raw Umber thought the instructions.
Fence: Basecoat the fence post with Driftwood. Shade with TRU and highlight with Bleached Sand.
Load liner brush with thinned TRU and paint the grain lines.
Corn stalk: Paint stalk with Plantation Pine. Highlight with Olive Green and a little Bleached Sand.
Shade under the leaves with a little TRU. Paint the top with Bleached Sand.
Two Smaller Pumpkins: Basecoat with Burnt Orange, shade

with Rookwood Red and highlight with Moon Yellow. Dry brush
cheeks with Rookwood Red. Transfer on face details.
Highlight around the eyes, nose, and mouth with Moon Yellow.
Paint eyes, noses, and details with Black.
Smaller Pumpkin on left: Paint the mouth Bleached Sand;

shade the bottom with just a little Burnt Orange. Outline and
paint the details with Black.
Dot each eye with Bleached Sand to highlight.
Paint the small pumpkin the crow is holding the same.
Paint all the curly Qs with TRU.
98
Crows and Letters:
Using the crow stencil and the deerfoot stippler,
paint the crows Lamp Black and highlight with
Bleached Sand. Dot the eyes with Bleached Sand.
After the eye dots are dry, dot again with Black.
Paint the legs with Black.
Paint the letters and dot them with Black. Lightly
highlight with Bleached Sand.
Moon and stars:

Using the same stencil, paint with Moon Yellow.
Lightly dry brush with Bleached Sand to highlight.
Mix water with TRU, using a liner brush, outline
moon and stars.
Finishing:
Using an old toothbrush, pick up Lamp Black and thin with

a little water to spatter the surface. Clean brush, load with
Bleached Sand and repeat the spattering. Let dry.
Spray with several light coats of Matte Spray Sealer.

When dry, attach wire to hang.
99
100
PixelatedPalette
2018 Theme Calendar
Instructions
Month Themes due by NOTES/IDEAS
Mixed Media/Valentines
Dec. 1st 2017
January
February Spring/Easter Jan. 1st 2018
March Home Dcor/Seasonal/ Feb. 1st

Mother's Day
April Seasonal Themes/Father's Day March 1st
May Patriotic/Vacation April 1st
Summer/ Back to School

June May 1st
Teacher Gifts
July CHRISTMAS IN JULY!

June 1st
Ornament Issue
August
July 1st
Halloween
September Fall/Thanksgiving/Home Dcor August 1st
October
Christmas Sept. 1st
Last Minute Gifts/ Winter Themes October 1st

November
December New Years/Creativity/Trends November 1st
We accept projects on a year round basis; no need to wait to submit your idea!
Send a photo of the finished project or a well-detailed design sketch to:
Senior Editor, Lindsey Applegate at: palettepixels@gmail.com
All submitted projects must be unpublished, original artwork.
Upon approval, you will be required to submit the instructions, a short

introduction paragraph, line art and high-resolution color pictures
No later than the deadline shown above.
App/rev/6.17
101
Design Call
The Pixelated Palette is currently taking submissions for future issues.

To submit, send a quality photo and brief description of your original,
unpublished design to palettepixels@gmail.com.
102
Readers Gallery
Original design by Sharon Cook

Submitted by Sandy Walker
Original design by Tracy Moreau

Submitted by Linda Cantara-Etiopio
103

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July 2017 Table of Contents

Title Designer Page

Am I the only one shaking my head in amazement wondering where the

This months Pixelated Palette is brimming with autumn designs, new

We welcome Michael Cheek as our cover artist. Under his relaxed

Shirley Koenig, designer and author of 11 volumes of the Countrys Edge

Birddid someone mention a bird? Well, its not autumn without a

Waving my paint brush at ya

Paints: Martin F. Weber Prima Oil Colors

Brushes by Loew Cornell

Color illustrations begin on the next page.

Chimney: Burnt Sienna + Ultramarine Blue

Roof -line, Window and Porch: Burnt Sienna + Ultramarine Blue

Window Pane: Burnt Sienna + Titanium White

House: Burnt Sienna + Cad Red Light

Roof: Titanium White, Ultramarine Blue + a touch of Cad Red Light

DecoArt Americana Acrylic Paint:

Any questions or concerns, please contact me:

Basecoat and Color Floats Shade, Sponge and Details

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Brushes: Dynasty Faux Squirrel Brushes

Apply one coat of thinned Antique Green to the leaves.

With Sunny Day, add dry brushed highlight

Optional Step ** Pebeo Gedeo Metallic Foil**

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Finish: Following manufacturers instructions, spray with Matte Varnish/Sealer

2017 by OldeMoonlane Primitives by Wendy Young

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Tips: Please read all instructions before beginning.

Homemade Texture: Mix 1/4" cup of

Basecoat Light Buttermilk:

Candy Corn/Turkey Toes: Dry brush Spicy

Blush: Apply to cheeks and lips.

Sealer: Making sure your project is thoroughly dry, following manufacturers

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Media Misters by DecoArt:

Brushes: Papillon from Artists Club:

Detail the Leaves:

Marigold Leaves: Drybrush with Moon Yellow

Chickadee: Basecoat Buttermilk; drybrush

Flower Petals: Basecoat solidly in Mustard Seed. You may need to

Paints: DecoArt American Acrylics

Ground Area: Load a slightly damp sea

Screw Lid: Basecoat with True Ochre; shade

Transfer the line drawing using Royal, White Transfer Paper.

Leaves: Begin adding in leaves, some with

After most of the leaves are complete, look at

Darker Flowers: Remember to paint the

Accents & Details: Be sure to sign your piece!

Finishing: Following manufacturers instructions, apply several coats of Deco

Stencils * Brushes * Patterns * Paints *

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Basket: Undercoat the basket and handle one coat Camel.

Highlight each stay and weave with Camel. Do a second

Finishing: Varnish with your favorite water base varnish.

All supplies and materials available at Cupboard Distributing www.cdwood.com 937-652-3338

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Sure Touch Taklon Brushes by Jo Sonja

Stem: Basecoat Cashmere Beige. Load toe of angle with Light

Acorns: Paint nut section of acorns Cashmere

Paints: DecoArt Americana Acrylics

Antique Maroon French Grey Blue

Basecoat: Opaque application of background color on surface or component.

Optional Step Pebeo Gedeo Metallic Foil