Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
Split
Summer 2016
Island hideaways
The coasts best-kept secrets
Dry Stone Wall
Centuries old stone walls
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword 4 Sightseeing 40
A zesty editorial to unfold Discover what we 've uncovered
Restaurants 23 Shopping 71
We give you the bread 'n' butter of where to eat Priceless places and buys
Be introduced to some traditional ways of life from Dalmatian Zagora, see page 46, Photo by Dusina Ante Barbir, Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives
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Bavice between two World Wars, by Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop-
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yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica-
Julije Mosettig. The photographs were
taken during the summertime between tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
the two More
World ??chapter?? reviews online:
Wars. The photos show
purpose of review, without written permission from the publish-
how people ??city??.inyourpocket.com
spent their time on Splits NotThelisted
er and copyright owner. here?
brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
most famous beach Bavice enjoying Dry Stone Wall
Centuries old stone walls Overtel.250
Lithuania ??chapter??
(+370-5) reviews
212 29 76). Split (Croatia) Inonline:
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life, friendships and love, more than Vintage Split And is not responsible for any information which might change after
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Its Outskirts
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Jadrolinija
Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the
islands of Bra, Hvar, Vis and olta by ferries (will take
cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for lo-
cal catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line
Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.
For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in
advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to
travelling.QD3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33,
ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. June 3rd -
July 1st Open 04:15 - 23:59. July 2nd - September 5th
Open 00:00 - 24:00.
MSC Krstarenja
Photo
Split by Vinja
Tourist BoardArambai
Archives SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD3, Gat
Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.
com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
By boat
Splits ferry port isnt a bad place to make the transition Split Tours
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transporta- Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and Hvar-
tion and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to Ancona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).
see policemen strolling around, dont be disturbed: those QD3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35
are just the customs officers that work at the office located 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Open
in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. A
around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least
four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during By bus
their working hours. Calling home: There are two public Splits bus station is fairly small but has everything you
phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open
from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the sta- 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along
tion. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Tra- with the domestic and international ticket windows and
jektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers
town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find a twenty-four hour service and the information desk op-
the information you need. Make a left out of the port and erates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office
a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; con- operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the
tinue farther and youll reach the old town in about five window of the international ticket office list the interna-
minutes. tional arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate
Hvar, Bra, olta and Vis. of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As its on the same side of the
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something street, the directions for getting around are the same as for
like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Mo- the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the
torcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old
Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call
strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away
life vest. directly in front of the bus station.
6 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Getting Around
Main bus station upstairs between the two doors leading to the mens and
(Autobusni kolodvor Split) womens toilets.
If youre planning a return trip to a domestic destination, Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a
make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.
return tickets usually require you to travel with the same Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso pri-
company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be jevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from
travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus the airport and shouldnt cost more than 300kn for the
will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness- trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at
inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute
affect the length of your trip.QJ3, Obala kneza Doma intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-
goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80, way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso
info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr. prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights
and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old
town for 30kn.
By car
From Zagreb Split Airport-Katela (Zrana luka
So you have your own wheels and youd like to know the Split-Katela)
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The QCesta dr.Franje Tumana 96, Katel tafili,
fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22,
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on informacije@split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres Bra Airport
long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar,
you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know the biggest town on the island of Bra, this small air-
youre getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and port started operations in 1993 and is open year round,
thats that! with charter flights organized only during the summer.
The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of
From Slovenia 100 passengers or fewer.QVeko Polje, Gornji Humac,
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.
do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00
keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split. - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 -
20:00.
From Italy
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway By train
to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and The train station has very few amenities, save for the coin-
route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia operated storage lockers that can be accessed during
and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which the stations working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The
will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As
(local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where youll see signs for the its on the same side of the street, the directions for get-
A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit ting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn
labeled Dugopolje. will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a
right turn will lead you to the old town and several pub-
lic phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the
By plane way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of
Splits airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but the train station.
quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any
questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people Main train station
at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00. Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect
Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb
a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on
be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Chang- a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from
ing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an Split at 21:43, theres one more really handy service of-
exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the fered at the train station. If you have a car and dont feel
main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the
home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn,
(open according to flight times). There are public phones plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ3, Obala kneza
in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85
point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, 25, informacije@hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr.
8 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Getting Around
catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn
Tourist Information (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for
parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price
Tourist Information Centre per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the
QD3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, centre. So, if youre parking near the Riva, you can bet on a
tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour
www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.
- 20:00.
Promet Split
Tourist Information Centre QD2, Gundulieva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@
QJ2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com.
Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. SMS Parking
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes locat-
ed at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211),
zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone
Public transport 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the
Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an
There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number
05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running shown on the box (remember to include the international
Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each dialing code if youre using a foreign mobile). A few minutes
line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be before your hour of paid parking runs out, youll get a mes-
purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks sage to remind you to refresh your lease or move your car.
near each bus stop for 9kn. If youre trying to beat the system
and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and
you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered Towed away
by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car pre-
city. Sukoianska (D-2) is the main station from which you viously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have
can catch buses for Trogir, Omi, the airport, and other des- down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didnt heed
tinations outside of Split. Sukoianskas ticket office operates our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has
from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Satur- been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem,
days, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoianska tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car
station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so youll need to shell out 750
regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99. - 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and
the office is open around the clock.Qtel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.
Promet Split
QE1, Hercegovaka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, info@ The foundation ISLAND BRA - somewhere between the sea and the stars Archives
promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
Fishermen from Milna
Taxi
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you
own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If youre with
Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn,
with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each
piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no
additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of
most major hotels, Firule and Kriina hospitals, at the ferry
port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.
Parking
There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/
hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is
payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and
in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 -
14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price.
However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught with- Bathers on the beach Banj in Supetar
out a ticket when youre supposed to have one you might
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 9
City Basics
Customs Smoking
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no long- Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-caf
er custom limits between member states or tax return. For culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
other non-member states we recommend you to follow mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
info at www.porezna-uprava.hr. ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
Disabled travellers including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if youre pre-
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is pared to move inside.
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping cen- Visas
tres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new Since Croatia has become a new member of the European
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does
most buildings. If youre planning to visit, we suggest you that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter oth-
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters er EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/em-
arrival as accessible as possible. bassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In ad-
dition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other
cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa
Electricity for multiple entries because of the border crossing through
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri- aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
cal appliances.
Water
Money Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafs accept credit cards, When things go wrong
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly
on you. If youre planning a trip to one of the islands in lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
amount of cash you think youll need for the trip, as find- emergency, Croatia has implemented Europes wide Emer-
ing places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem. gency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER
or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in
case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you
Public Toilets will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, con-
When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public tact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER
toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good con- is located in Firule Hospital in Spinieva 1 (E-3) where
dition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the everything necessary will be done. In case of an car acci-
Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuka little bay area (H- dent call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for
3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street accidents on the sea call 195.
(J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are
around 4kn or 0.50.
QR Code
Roads This QR code contains the website address,
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their http://www.inyourpocket.com/croatia/
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. split for Split In Your Pocket: and a user hav-
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt ing a camera phone equipped with the
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- correct reader software can scan this im-
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in age of the QR Code causing the phones
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As the image and print it out any way you want.
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. Photo by Mara Gajinov
Despite the popularity of Croatias coast with tourists there to pirate attacks youll find a 16th century castle, while
are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice
from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hidea- with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testi-
ways where you can find your own personal paradise. fies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love
back home.
Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base
Susak of visitors from Croatias alternative cultural scene, so
Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The youll happen across cute boutiques and low-key perfor-
local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended mances. Theres a gallery of sculpture by Marija Ujevi-
with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even Galetovi, a contemporary artist who does fantastic
visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it. things with the human form.
In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for con- Silbas pristine beaches recall the islands silvery name
valescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves
architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid tur-
World War tourism halted and never really picked up quoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.
again. Which means that the island remains utterly un-
spoilt.
Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being cov- Prvi
ered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds Prvi is perfectly placed for exploring ibenik, the Kor-
planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no nati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin
roads, only sandy paths you can pretty much go bare- and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks in-
foot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well land.
known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being Prvi is small and perfectly formed, with two settle-
revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays its ments and no cars. Prvi Lukas pretty waterfront fea-
a paradise for families with small children. There are no tures a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely
hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment. bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands
Come summer youll find yourself joined by a host of and the mountains on the coast. Among the children
Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring. who have been lucky to spend their summers here was
Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island Faust Vrani, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci.
are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architec- A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he
ture. Other visitors include women who come to bury was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first
themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions
to restore fertility. in the local museum.
Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk cos-
tume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely
one of the more intriguing Croatian islands! olta
Just opposite the port of Split, olta is super easy to
get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been
Silba almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the bet-
With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed ter for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian ref-
by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their uge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian
days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska
chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea cap- cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Di-
tains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable ocletian of Split chose Neujam to build fish farms. More
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 11
Croatias Secret Islands
recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking Gifts for Hungry
refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica
that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beauti-
Loved Ones
ful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So
little marina (www.martinis-marchi.com). what better gift for those back home than something to
Wine lovers should try oltas local variety Dobrii, nibble?
thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly
by experts. Dont neglect to visit the villages in the in- Ground Wild Fennel
terior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems
full of atmosphere. In Grohote youll find a gallery with and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasovi
a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for
were born in olta. flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact
(+385-) 91 588 84 09, marica.marasovic@gmail.com.
The Elafiti Islands Grisinia
The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Du- A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island
brovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame
island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with
island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from
times past had their summer homes here, lending the Ivan Motui, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.
islands echoes of the Renaissance.
Olive Leaf Tea
Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus
Koloep supporting a healthy heart and immune system. Its a
The ferrys first port of call is a popular spot for day trip- traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can
pers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its pick up in Paka sirana cheese shops around the country or
neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje elo and Donje elo on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open
each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.
abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches
in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket The Captains Cookies
to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water! Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on
the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on
their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at
Lopud the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebi
For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, mon- (Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunovi bakeries.
asteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park Contact: mantunovic87@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 165
right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boast- 07 77 Marija Antunovi.
ing fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby youll find
the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the instal- Pag and Bra Island Cheese
lation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia,
Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to ex- with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole
plore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Ho- country. Look out for the Paka sirarna and Gligora
tel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia brands.
at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been Bra island cheese is exclusively sold locally. Its not easy
turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation to get hold of a round of cheese as its a natural seasonal
and good restaurants. product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the
effort. Try the Kuzmani family, Put Varoa 18, Supetar,
Bra, aktiva.brac@gmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98,
ipan (+385-) 91 594 52 79.
The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands,
you can wander ipans shoreline and hardly meet a Lumblija
soul. ipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 his- Lumblija is a sweet from Korula island made from wine
toric summer villas. With two settlements this island has must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was ap-
a bus service! Suura is where the ferry arrives, while parently the recipe of a French soldier who presented
ipanska Luka (Port of ipan), in a pleasing twist, has no a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the
ferry service. Apart from stumbling over fascinating old words noubliez (dont forget!). This was Croatianised
buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can
in olive and fig, carob and vine The island has a scattering order a cake from Mrs Vlai, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korula,
of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants. iskravlasich@gmail.com, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.
12 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Croatias Secret Islands
Krk Island Prut
To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind www.martinis-marchi.com
laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why genera-
tions of Krk islanders have prepared their own prut. This is
a product that varies depending on the environment and
the recipe, so its different wherever you go. Try Krk prut
at the ui butchers shop, Zagrebaka bb, Krk, tel. (+385-
51) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00
- 21:00) or at Kua krkog pruta at Bok od Brozia 40, Vrh,
Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00,
Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).
Salt Petals
Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as
they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from
Nins Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist defying
flakes harvested gently from the waters surface. Delicious
sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals expectations
and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick
up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7,
Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected
shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr
Macaroni Needles
One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine
is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni
na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slen- Heritage hotel - Restaurant - Marina - Yacht charter
der tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulieva
4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66
36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja, Lipa Rugs
Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00). A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made
using traditional island techniques from remnants of fab-
ric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be
Deck Your Home With used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor.
Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvi island
Croatian Goods at Ulica IX 3, Prvi epurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84,
Wool Slippers from Cres Island lipa1@windowslive.com. Alternatively, if youre in ibenik
Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Meduliev trg, or
gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.
herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta
Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is Stone Pestle and Mortar
yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and en- Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, theres a
vironmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a, timeless elegance to Bra stone. What better choice for a
Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, cres.ruta@gmail.com, www. piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look
ruta-cres.hr. good, and theyre handy for crushing herbs and grind-
ing spices. You can find them in the Draen Jakis L&D
Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace workshop at Put varoa 3, Supetar, Bra, tel. (+385-) 098
The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepo- 907 04 68, drazenjaksic40@gmail.com, also in Split in the
glava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of basement of Diocletians palace or at a stall in the centre
lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain of Korula town.
visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected
modernity a framed piece of lace makes an authentic Kunjska spara
yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole
bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They
plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and
Kreimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, grad-pag@zd.t- still do) carry on their heads on their return home from
com.hr, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00 the fields. You can find them on Paman island, contact
and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30 Marija Grda, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45,
- 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30. marija.grdas@zd.htnet.hr.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 13
Culture & Events
Boris Buan (Croatian Academic photographer, painter and graphic designer), 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split, 1983, Screen print, MSU Archives
JULY - SEPTEMBER
Artists at Metrovi - Kaimir Hraste SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL
The cycle of artists at the Metrovi Gallery continues
with sculptor Kaimir Hraste. He is one of the founders 10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday
of the Art Academy in Split and has taken part in over Split Film Festival - International
100 exhibitions. Hraste is the author of numerous pub- Festival of New Film 2016
lic monuments, busts and sculptures around Croatia Film for avid fans, film with high demands! This
and has received several national awards. festival promotes new, creative, personal, experi-
Inspired by the call to be exhibited alongside Metrovis mental, radical and subversive works, styles and
works, see this special part of his opus, worth every genres, commonly produced outside the commer-
notice!QB3, Ivan Metrovi Museums - Metrovi cialised mainstream, but of excellent standard and
Gallery and the Crikvine - Katilac, etalite Ivana achievement. It highly promotes Croatian film but
Metrovia 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr. also gives strong regard to international feature
and short film, paying attention to directors who
01.07 Friday - 10.08 Wednesday explore the aesthetic potential of film.
Dan Pjerovschi - The Split Drawing According to track record, several producers and
This Romanian artist gathers inspiration on site by directors who have appeared here in the past and
touring a city, interviewing its people, exploring main- were lesser known have gone onto bigger and
stream media, city buildings, installations, and com- brighter things. A stepping stone to glory! Two in-
bines these to form the core of his artwork. Work that ternational juries will be given the arduous task of
he deems as intellectual graffiti, almost cartoonish / choosing the winners.
art-brut, yet drawings with an artistic message and ten- Retrospectives, workshops, lectures, latest features
dency for humour.QJ2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava in newmedia and presentations by leading experts
10, www.galerija-kula.hr.
Papaya always add value and a new dimension to visitors
and presenters alike. 2016 is the 21st edition of
04.07 Monday - 18.07 Monday the event, the oldest international film and media
Halbart Vilim - Flying Boats manifestation in Croatia as such. Its a great meeting
Halbart presents a cycle of surreal sculptures with a point to network with people in the industry and to
focus on ship building, a once known golden treasure form future projects and relations. The event will be
in Croatia and now viewed as a dying trade, a tradition held across three city venues.QKaraman Cinema,
that capitalism has scrunched and thrown into the sea, Iliev prolaz 3; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijan
an identity once proud, now fallen. ova 7; Bavice Cinema, Preradovievo etalite 6,
Most evident in his work is the recycling, transforma- www.splitfilmfestival.hr.
tion and reinterpretation of discarded materials from
shipyards.QI2, Gali Art Salon, Marmontova 3,
www.hulu-split.hr.
Special events
03.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday
Split Mediterranean Film Festival
Esma Redepova, A Sustipan Nights Dream Archives For nine year straight, this festival of full-length and short
film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as
one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider
that screenings take place on the beach with the summer
breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how
could it not? Bring a blanket!QBavice Summer Cinema
(Preradovievo etalite 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Diok
lecijanova 7) and Split Art Gallery (Ulica kralja Tomislava
15), www.fmfs.hr.
Splits literature scene story. I believe that there are enough people from for-
eign countries around who are interested in learning
An interview with Olja Savievi Ivanevi how people live here.
by Roman Simi Bodroi
The world of literature has always had its fair share of greats Roman: Why a Western, and in particular why a spa-
both present and past and in this modern age, there has ghetti Western? True, the path has been paved by the
never been more of a need for great literature and mate- cameramen of the already mythical German series
rial that grasps the reader. IYP proudly introduces you to about Winnetou which was recorded decades ago,
a star, and we arent talking show biz, but rather a star in but you have shown that a Western style life has al-
literature. Olja Savievi Ivanevi (OSI) is a shining light ways existed in Dalmatia and is very much still alive
in contemporary Croatian literature at present, and judg- today.
ing by articles published in the Irish Times, the Guardian or Olja: In fact, the wild south-east does exist here, and West-
DieZeitu... her books have been noted not only in Croatia erns as a genre have imposed themselves quite naturally
but by the international literary audience. This lady from on their own. Spaghetti westerns or Italo-westerns are a
Split (born 1974), an award-winning poet and novelist, who Mediterranean product with films that were mostly re-
with her novel Adios, Cowboy, which is an offset spa- corded in Spain and primarily by Italians. There is also a
ghetti Western perched in the wild and set around Splits sub-genre of the classic spaghetti Western which is called
surroundings, has won both recognition and awards with the Eastern, and they were recorded in countries of East-
this powerful story of Dalmatia that many are not aware of ern Europe. They were an important part of my childhood
(and could certainly not learn of whilst being on holiday). and I played around following the rules of the genre whilst
writing a contemporary story of Dalmatia, a story primarily
Roman: For starters, in your first novel, you freed Dal- about women and about lost childhood heroes.
matia of a fair portion of its general landmarks; some
would even say that you freed it of something that Roman: The place where your novel is set is located
people love most about Split and why they would only twenty kilometres from Split yet appears to
even visit it at all. What was it like to wrestle the truth be thousands of light years away from the city, as if
of so many songs, tourist guides and so many stereo- it were an island. But what of the real islands? You
types, some of which, as usual, are accurate? wrote about them also, as in the recently awarded
Olja: I hope that I somewhat evoked that beauty that piece for children - you are happy whilst dwelling on
truly exists, yet I also described the hidden side of the them, exploring them. They are some kind of periph-
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 19
Culture & Events
erals where life is totally different and far from the
idyllic life when they are not right before our eyes? CINEMAS
Olja: The place that I described is partly invented, and part-
ly inspired by Kateli, Vranjice... these are places in the vicin- Cineplexx City Center one Split
ity of Split, which in some way, at least in their old towns, QF2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, www.
are still reminiscent of the island towns. cineplexx.hr.
I fell in love with the islands through sailing as I have sailed
from a young age, sailing has been my doorway to seeing CineStar
most of the bays in the Adriatic Sea. A desire to return again QD2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-)
and again to these places and discover the new ones is one 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
of my most enduring and powerful emotional experiences,
whilst in winter I dream about sailing. I have a small boat Karaman
that is also my home and adventure at sea. QI2, Iliev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www.
ekran.hr.
Roman: Which one of our islands do you feel to be
yours and why? Open Cinema Bavice (Ljetno kino
Olja: Korula is my island as I know it very well and I am Bavice)
connected to Korula through my family ties. It is there that QD3, Preradovievo etalite 6, tel. (+385-21) 34
I spend my summers, but I also visit in winter and I know 86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August.
the harsher side of the island, its solitude and isolation. That
is what I wrote about. Roman: My impression as an occasional visitor to
Split is that it has greatly changed in recent years,
Roman: Your new novel which is coming out soon even more so than other Dalmatian towns. You live in
touches on your central topic, the city of Split. What Split: is this observation true? And if so, what it is like
kind of a city is Split? How would you describe it to a now? What are the pros and cons?
foreigner? Olja: Split has become a favoured tourist destination. On
Olja: The new novel Singer in the Night describes one the plus side the city is much more stylish and neater.
specific part of Split, the settlement of large buildings and The minus is that because of the building of new apart-
skyscrapers that were built in socialism. It was an attempt ments, the old parts of the city are dying and the true
to make urban city planning tailored to fit the people, to appeal of Split lies exactly in the authenticity of everyday
respect public space that nowadays no longer exists. That life. This is a city of common folk and by losing the traces
part of Split has not yet been touched by the raging tran- of its ordinary life, it will lose its best part and that is what
sitional capitalism that poses as a threat to them. I think makes it more interesting to tourists than other cities.
districts such as Split 3, Trstenik, Mertojak, Spinut and oth-
ers in todays time are urban centres of the city. I am not Roman: Which three places in Split mean the most
saying this because I feel some nostalgia, I was not raised in to Olja, the writer?
those districts, but one must learn from such kind of urban Olja: Marjan and Spinut where I live - my boat is also in
planning for it shows concern and love for the city, which is the small Spinut harbour; its the folk, the fishermens
opposite to the grapples that prevail today. old districts of Matejuka and Varo since I used to pass
through them every day for fifteen years and they re-
mind me of all those small towns that people like; the
Photo Club Split market and fish market - the tastes, the smell, the loud-
ness, the bustle, the dynamics of it all.
When a picture says a thousand words, when a pho-
tographer catches a moment in time that leaves a last- Roman: I know you love to travel, but how do you
ing memory, this is the entire purpose of Splits Photo travel? Which means of transportation do you use,
Club. People passionate about photography, playing which books do you read, with whom and where do
with it, manipulating, exploring Opened in 1911 and you travel?
has since stood the test of time. This summer will bring Olja: I like to travel by boat or car, so I have freedom of
together several well-known Croatian photographers movement whenever needed and in whatever direction
on a monthly basis; In June, Fjodor Klari presents his I choose to go.
exhibit Hajduk Supporters The twelfth player, July Most often I travel with my family or other writers (when
sees Stephan Lupino exemplify his all-round passion we go to festivals). I also love big cities and as I am get-
for photography whilst Goran Le gives us a birds eye ting older, I am becoming increasingly attracted to ex-
view of Split and the Adriatic.QI2, Marmontova 5, ploring nature, drifting away from the large residential
tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@fotoklubsplit.hr, www. areas. It is interesting that whilst at home I more often
fotoklubsplit.hr. Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00, read poetry and short fiction, whereas whilst traveling
Sat 10:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. and especially on board, I love to read big novels, and
endless stories.
20 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Split Pulse
Dvor Archives
Soparnik, Dugi Rat Tourist Board Archives SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?
Which activities do you recommend?
Team 4coffee soul food: Along with the growth of
Dinko Boani tourism, the number of tourist agencies that offer top-
quality tours of the city of Split has also grown. We would
Senior Assistant at the Split Academy of Art gladly entrust anyone in their capable hands, because as
(UMAS) in the Film department, author of the locals we had the opportunity to take a tour of the city
exhibition Forgotten Faces of Komia, for more with a guide and we were surprised with all the new in-
see page 58 formation and history that we had missed.
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What
go out at night? do you recommend as a souvenir from Split for
Dinko: Coffee at Vjekos on the Riva and Judino Drvo for someone to take home?
going out. Team 4coffee soul food: If youre going to spend your
money, spend it wisely. The small specialized shops in-
S IYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split? side Diocletians palace sell unique handmade products
Dinko: Marjan. by talented artists and craftsmen.
They spread love and positive energy by keeping quality
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which and customer satisfaction in first place!
activities do you recommend?
Dinko: Walking. SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom-
mend as a must-try for visitors?
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do Team 4coffee soul food: The always fresh selection of
you recommend as a souvenir from Split? fish at Konoba Matejuka, and Barba beer at Splits craft
Dinko: Diocletians palace cellars - handmade fish made brewery LAB.
out of wood or metal by Ivan Bogdanovi Goli.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recom- twitter.com/
mend as a must-try for visitors?
Dinko: Various local chocolates from Nadalina. inyourpocket
22 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Split Pulse
Restaurants
One of the best things in life for many are the places where Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13, dvor.split@gmail.com.
you can drink and eat well. Diocletians City has finally wok- Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).
en up in gastronomy. All those who favor ie & pie have Pi TA6GBXW
the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, bras-
series and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns. Grego Levante
Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an origi-
nal stone wall as part of the minimalist dcor! That aside,
Croatian the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of fresh-
Bajamonti ness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish
Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service
after one of Splits former mayors who built a theater in is A+.QD3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22,
1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time. grego.levante012@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60
Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediter- - 130kn). PJ6NGBW
ranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster
of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate Ma:toni
each of the tables based on the season and they also hold This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an
various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC3, Trg arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark
Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@ wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle
gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open 08:00 Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterra-
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (75 - nean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with
350kn). Pi TJAGBXW a contemporary twist.QD3, Prilaz brae Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 27 84 57, info@ma-toni.com, www.ma-toni.
Dvor com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 150kn). PTA6
for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls GBW
and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and
purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place. Pikulece
Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as deli- For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas
cious desserts such as tiramisu and maraskina, made with bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent fla-
cream chocolate and maraschino cherry liqueur.QE3, Put vours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mus-
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 23
Restaurants
sels, octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and Uje Oil Bar
quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully Walk in and its hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croa-
presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastro- tian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a
nomic experience.QJ2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingre-
095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com, www.uje.hr. dients coming through. The one thing that doesnt change
Open 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PT J A 6 G is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly
BW amazing culinary experience.QJ2, Dominisova 3, tel.
(+385-) 095 200 80 08, ujeoilbar@gmail.com, www.
Trattoria Tinel uje.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (60 -
Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among 120kn). Pi J A 6 G BW
the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and cre-
denza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. Its a Villa Spiza
great place to eat when youre not sure what youre Located by Diocletians palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh
in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of homemade food that is prepared right in front of you.
choices to satisfy everyones cravings. Chicken, mixed This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied
vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such
cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tor- as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as
tellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with to- rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection
mato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only sea-
steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main sonal fresh ingredients.QI2, Kruieva 3, tel. (+385-)
course.QH2, Tomia Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, 091 152 12 49, ivanagamulin@gmail.com. Open 09:00
tinelsplit@net.hr, www.trattoria-tinel.com. Open - 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PTJ 6N G
08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P i A 6 G B X W BW
ethnic International
Aci Grao
Biser Orijenta With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the
Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The ACI Grao has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try
location is a little odd since the restaruant is situ- any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos.
ated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines build- Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit
ings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel.
makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the (+385-21) 39 85 60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com,
ardin Park.QD2, Bihaka 2a, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 www.adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 -
76, www.biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30- 24:00. 250kn). PA G BW
(25 - 125kn). PA6BXW
Adriana
Bistro Samurai This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a
Conveniently situated in the city centre and just crowd. Why? Its a prime location for people watching
across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any
range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends
one can expect the complete Japanese experience in and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly
food, dining and culture.QI2, Bana Josipa Jelaia priced!QI2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, otomako@hotmail.com, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hotel-
www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun adriana.com/restaurant/. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 -
17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). PAGW 160kn). Pi J A G BW
UBL ve
REP ati
IKE
TRG kur
o
Pr
Riv
a
fish restaurant
Stellon Gut
Stellons menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine. Youve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for its
The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the depart-
contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings ment store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. Af-
for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat dur- ter 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There
ing the summer!QD3, Uvala Bavice bb, tel. (+385-21) youll find Gut, a traditional pizzeria with delectable
48 92 00, davor_stellon@net.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ1, Slavieva 1, tel. (+385-21)
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (70 - 120kn). Pi A6LGBW 48 63 33, kontakt@pizzeria-gust.hr, www.pizzeria-
gust.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 57kn).
PA 6 GW
Pizza
Galija Luica
The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near Dining in Luica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza
the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the aint bad, actually its quite good. Its located at the Spinut
bathroom but thats all part of the fun. They serve a wide Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QB2, Luica
7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63, fax (+385-21) 38 67 59, info@
restoranlucica.com, www.restoranlucica.com. Open
08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn). Pi A 6 L G B
XW
Maslina
A cute little restaurant thats a tad hard to find; we suggest
you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service
is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled
with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak
rolled in pancetta.QI2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49
88, konmaslina@net.hr, www.konobapizzeriamaslina.
hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 -
150kn). PJ A 6 G BW
Velo misto No 1
Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent
wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name
of a popular TV series with performances by top Split
theatre thespians.QC2, Matoeva 63, tel. (+385-21) 38
47 77, velomistono1@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). Pi A 6 V
GB X W
Marenda
If you end up at some tavern and if you see that at one of
the tables sits a group that at the same moment are talk-
ing loudly and are chewing a mouthful of delicious food,
do not be afraid - they are only eating marenda! Marenda
has always taken place somewhere between ten oclock
in the morning and noon. By 10:00 - 12:00, the working
class would have starved a hundred times, and when this
hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then
you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this meal -
from tripe and pata faol (Dalmatian beans with pasta),
to polpeta u ugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra
Photo by Vinja Arambai usuvo (spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and
fried sardines and even veal shank.
28 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Fife the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making
Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.QC3, Uvala Bal
Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular uni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00, restoran.jugo@gmail.
meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and com, www.restoranjugo.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 120kn). Pi A 6 L E G
fish stew, paticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and BW
served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish
and stuffed paprika. Fifes only drawback is its popular- Kod Joze
ity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with abso-
the place so much in recent years that it can be diffi- lutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to
cult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian
QH3, Trumbieva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23, woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is
buffetfife@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (45 - 65kn). done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and
Pi 6 N G B X W chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green
pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ2, Sredmanuka 4,
Hvaranin tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00
To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a ko- - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). PA 6
noba, small old stone buildings where fisherman once GB W
spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception
as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white Konoba Leut
risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it
made rakija.QH2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dal-
667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 - matian cuisine is paticada - stewed beef served with
150kn). PA G B X W gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual
variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad
Jugo beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kuice -
Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.
your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with QH2/3, Sirievia 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open
magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). Pi A 6 G B W
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 29
Restaurants
Konoba Nevera
Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a fast food
nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman stat-
ue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gor- Kantun Paulina
geous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great Some situations just call for a nice serving of evapi,
place for when youre in the mood for Mediterranean sea- namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and
food cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad this little stand on the corner serves them up right.
and grilled fish.QE3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/ Theres no seating available but you can park it on a
(+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). bench at the street and watch the night-time drama
PA6GBXW unfold.QI2, Matoia 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 35kn).
Konoba Varo PNGBW
Its situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with
an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem Rizzo
ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck Another player in the local snack game along with
into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made
try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. Its a tad pricey but popular on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a
with locals and the wine list is endless.QH2, Ban Mladeno mid-day or midnight snack.QI2, Tonieva 4, tel.
va 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros. (+385-21) 34 83 49/(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.
com, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 -
120kn). PAGBW 24:00. (8 - 20kn). NBW
Otarija u Viakovi
With a fine location just steps away from Bavice beach, this tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@
is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (48 - 70kn). Pi A6GBXW
meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive
menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dish- perun
es if youre in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the
room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers
roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the
gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paint-
and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things ings. The daily special is often a good bet.QH2, perun
cosy wherever you choose to sit.QD3, Prilaz brae Kaliter 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62,
na 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27, www. damabanovic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (35 -
ostarijauvidjakovi.eu. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). 180kn). Pi J A G B X W
Pi A6LGBXW
Zlatna ribica
Pimpinella Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serv-
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family ing scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and
house. The menu includes grilled meals, paticada, roast savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and
lamb with vegetables and much more.QE3, Spinieva 2a, camera and you will fit right in.QI2, Kraj Svete Marije
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open
06:00 - 22:00. (35 - 60kn). PN G W
Street Food
The street food restaurants priority is that the food tastes
good and some dishes are made using local products.
They offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and veg-
etables to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but
not least, you can eat a meal that is not that expensive.
Bepa
Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming
fast food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with
omelettes, top notch English breakfast, croissants served
NoStress Bistro Archives with sweet side dishes, and various burgers and sand-
wiches to choose from between 07:00 - 11:30 in the morn-
30 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
ing. Thereafter, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish & QI2, Ulica bana J. Jelaia 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40
chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelettes. To 12, jelaska4@hotmail.com, www.reginadelformaggio.
satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a de- com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn). Pi TJA
licious piece of pie. The green wooden tables and chairs, GBXW
surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor
terrace, give an earthy green peace feel to the place.QI2, Totos Burger Bar
Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, bepasplit1@gmail. A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original
com, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - and innovative sorts can be had; the meat and veggies are
02:00. (40 - 200kn). Pi TJA6GBW exclusively purchased from local family farms. Spaghetti,
soups, juices and salads are also on the menu! Their break-
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food fast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of oat-
Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls meal/muesli & yoghurt cups, truffles as well as sugar and
and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting gluten free cakes.QH2/3, Trumbieva obala 2, tel. (+385-
thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You 21) 31 40 40, totos.burger.bar@gmail.com. Open 07:30
can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and - 24:00. (12 - 57kn). Pi 6NSW
sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyones
taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00)
there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as Vegetarian
well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly Galerija Food
squeezed juice.QI2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/ Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing
(+385-) 092 160 10 00, info@cortomaltese.rocks, www. reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based
cortomaltese.rocks. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn). on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which
Pi TJA6EGBXW are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals
at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what
La Regina del Formaggio is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is
A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro
the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croa- interior, small terrace too.QJ2, Vukovieva 3, tel. (+385-)
tian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses, 099 939 54 18, galerijabarfood@gmail.com. Open 08:00
as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches. - 24:00. (70 - 220kn). Pi A6GBW
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 31
Restaurants
Makrovega
If youre in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg wine bar
youll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed
fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar
or organic.QI2, Letina 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, This wine and cheese bar has Dalmatia writ-
makrovega108@gmail.com, www.makrovega.hr. ten all over it with over 100 wines. Representing
Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - the diversity and quality of wines in this region,
60kn). Pi 6 V N G B X W 50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well,
they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are pri-
Up Caf marily produced locally. You can pick and choose
An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their
beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredi- cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm
ents, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly
which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes, staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They
pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy also have been mentioned in numerous national
cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such and international publications for their high-
as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and quality products and service.QI1, Poljana Tina
baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets Ujevia 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@
to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raf- paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 -
faello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (75 - 110kn). PJ A
taste great along with Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice 6E G B X W
or organic tea.QD2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.
upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
(15 - 45kn). Pi 6 V N G B X W by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby is-
lands. All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed
down generation to generation, and served with the
Out of town best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars.
Baletna kola Service is warm and you dont feel like another num-
Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from ber, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Je
the sea, its located 15min from the center of Split by car. senice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, antetomas57@
Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which gmail.com, www.bajso.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. (70
was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now - 250kn). AL B W
renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalma-
tian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or Konoba Nikola
meat, which can be savoured while listening to tradi- A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have cre-
tional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Katel Kam ated a comfortable and homey environment, adorned
belovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04 with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy
14, info@restoran-baletnaskola.com, www.restoran- a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals
baletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary
PA L G B X W twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Res-
ervations are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+385-
Konoba Bajso 21) 32 62 35, sanjanikola.alo@gmail.com. Open 12:00
Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). PT
is only 15 minutes away from Omi, and they also offer A6 L G X W
local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, youll be dazzled
Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioka
Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant
and wine bar edges its competition by far with outstand-
SYMBOL key ing Croatian and international dishes including sea food,
meat and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted and precision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable
and the wine list is per se excellence! The entire dining
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
experience is sure to be rememberedQObala Sv.
B Outside seating L Guarded parking Nikole 91, Baka Voda, tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, info@
hoteli-baskavoda.hr, www.hoteli-baskavoda.hr. Open
S Take away 6 Pet-friendly 11:30 - 23:00. (65 - 550kn). AL B W
W Wifi J Old town location
www.inyourpocket.com
32 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Zrno Soli
R E STAU R A N T
Bolska marenda or brunch in Bol, Bra Island. Trudna Tea Archives, for more see page 17.
Favola
A much needed coffee and newspapers? Heres a great
opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this caf
along Fruit Square (Voni trg). In Dalmatia theyd state
its location as the second row by the sea, meaning its
not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it.
Its name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly
state that the female toilet is unusually narrow!QI2,
Trg brae Radi 1 (Voni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48,
konoba-favola.com/o-nama/. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
PJ A G B X W
Galerija
Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range
of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes,
strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those
pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cock-
4coffee soul food Archives
tails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep
you jostling!QJ2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-)
4coffee soul food 095 197 16 56, caffebargalerijasplit@gmail.com. Open
The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that 08:00 - 24:00. PJ 6N G B XW
make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful!
Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals HOK Kavana and Gallery
reverberate here as the beans that are used and served Caf meets bar meets mini nightclub in the later hours is
send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose how best to describe this kavana. Lots of events are held
twinkling.QJ2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 091 523 94 65, here especially with artists who often have their work show-
4coffee.sf@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - cased and launched to an audience. Musical theme nights
14:00. W are also a catch with rock to pop to retro among the most
popular. Come by day or night, youre bound to catch a cool
Aktuell drink and a good vibe.QD2, Kavanjinova 11, tel. (+385-)
With its super equipped interior, modern design and re- 092 236 03 24. Open 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. BW
laxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed
when visiting Split. Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they Kalafati
also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good
throughout summer. Large LCD screens provide the per- choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are per-
fect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD3, Mile Gojsalia fect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly com-
1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 07:00 - 24:00. i6 pany. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of
NBXW the sea, its a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the
whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bavice
akula beach.QE3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09/(+385-
Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you 21) 38 91 01, kalafatic.fullbusiness.com. Open 07:00 -
order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6 GB XW
36 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Coffee & Cakes
Kavana Figa Teak caffe
Right from the Voni trg, in the narrow passage youll Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one
find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor
chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily sur-
its industrially fitted interior. rounded by the stone walls of neighbouring build-
The cool exterior and dcor is adjoined by the varied ings.QJ2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20
offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads 10, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
to pasta and fish, and all at value for money. As the day Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.
goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cock- P6 N G B X W
tails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which
is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI2, birac
Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@ It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bavice
gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ A 6 G B for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has
XW a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach.
birac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during
Kavana Procaffe the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the
A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping judge!QD3, Preradovievo etalite 1b, akrapante@
a coffee with an outlook toward the Katela towns and gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:30- 01:00, Fri, Sat
the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, theres nothing 07:30 - 02:00. PNGBXW
better than sitting here and watching the passing sail-
boats and rowboats.QC2, pinutska 67, tel. (+385-21)
38 43 23, info@procaffe.hr, www.procaffe.hr. Open Small Plates &
07:00 - 01:00. PA 6 G B X W Sweet Treats
Libar Goluzarije
Libar in local dialect means a book and though this Got a sweet tooth? Want something lightnfresh?
isnt a library the caf interior is chock-full of handmade Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee
themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes
views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, re- made according to traditional recipes.QI/D2, Ulica
spectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable pric- Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12.
es.QI2, Trg Franje Tumana 3. Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PJ A 6 B X W Kua kolaa
Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home rec-
Lvxor ipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves
A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is
the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that re- no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad
mains), Kavana Lvxors location on the Peristyle is stel- if you would like a nibble on the beach!QF3, Ruera
lar. And the services on offer match the quality of the Bokovia bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095
location. Theres wireless Internet, magazines and daily 926 40 30, kuca.kolaca@gmail.com. Open 08:00 -
newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu 20:30. Closed Sun. NG W
that includes normal caf fare, plus cocktails, sand-
wiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer Luka Ice-cream & Cakes
months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peri- Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split,
style so you can lounge around in true imperial style. these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have
QJ2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@ you coming back over and over again for more. Every
lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredi-
08:00 - 02:00. PJ A G B X W ents, so youll never get bored trying all the flavours. As
well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smooth-
eta ies.QI1, Petra Svaia 2, tel. (+385-) 091 594 95 52,
The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the passionforfood.st@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00,
back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PJ 6 N G B W
alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner
a server and make them spill the beans regarding their Tradicija
origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bars large outdoor This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
seating area and small but stylish interior make for a old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, bis-
pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out cuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to
the passersby.QI1, Poljana Tina Ujevia bb, nina. tradition - just as the name itself!QI2, Bosanska 2, tel.
pavlovic@st.t-com.hr. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 (+385-21) 36 10 70, kirigin.m@gmail.com. Open 08:00
- 24:00. PB X W - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PN S
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 37
Nightlife
During the summer months the nightlife in Split is not only Ghetto
rich and vibrant on the weekends but throughout the week Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco
as well. It must be said that due to the countless open-air soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky
concerts, festivals, bars and restaurants, spending time with feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and
friends and hanging out in the city is done mostly outdoors. bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ2, Dosud 10, koracat@
A night out typically begins with a drink on the Riva the gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6ENB
main seaside promenade in front of the old town or at XW
one of the many popular wine bars which have opened up
in recent years. A popular meeting and drinking place for the La Bodega Split
younger boisterous crowd is at Matejuka a stone pier jut- With chills and thrills, La Bodega is a stunning wine bar that
ting out into the sea located less than half way from the old is comfortable enough to sit and relax, and when the num-
palace walls to the city marina. The night moves on from here bers increase, people can choose to stay in or drink outside.
and people begin to gravitate towards the many bars tucked A cosmopolitan/mature crowd gather with live bands per-
inside the walls of the old Roman palace among the tiny forming on certain nights. Tops for warm up drinks or park
labyrinthine streets. Truth be told, the majority of the bars are yourself and stay the entire night.QI2, Mihovilova irina
often very small; with space inside at a premium, crowds pre- 1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 44, rezervacije@labodega.hr,
fer to gather in front of the bars themselves. Accommodat- www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PAEG
ing bar owners often place benches or cushions outside for BXW
people to sit on. This phenomenon is most prevalent along
the narrow streets of Get, located less than 100 meters from Moon bar
the seaside promenade, where bars are stacked one next to Having opened last year, Moon Bar has become a hit
another up a zigzagging staircase. With people sitting and amongst Spliani with lots of theme nights, DJs and live
mingling on the stairs, the flow of people though not bands performing throughout the year. There is always ac-
unpleasantly slows to a crawl. This is the ideal place to tion aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds
truly experience the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays
thats typical of Split and its people. If, after all this youre still spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sar-
in the mood for exploring, the early morning hours is when dine at times but thats what creates the atmosphere.QE3,
the nightclubs located outside the palace walls come to life. Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99, gdd@st.t-
com.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PA
LEGBXW
Bars
Caffe bar Fluid ST Riva
Get ready to take in some fluids at the caf with the same Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located
name, for one thing the cocktails and rakija (grappa) are along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot
pretty darn good & cheap with lots of flavours to choose summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you
from. The caf is quite small and there are tables and seats have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill
along the steps outside. Live DJs at weekends!QI2, Dosud whilst sipping beverages.QI2, Obala hrvatskog narod
1, tel. (+385-) 095 670 00 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat nog preporoda 18, info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva.
08:00 - 01:00. com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJ
GBW
Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub
Welcome to Splits new kid on the block, a sensational new To Je To
pub that is a gem upon entry. Located centrally in the histor- Located in Old Town Split, come on in and rave like a Roman
ical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old n new and at the bar with one of the largest selections of Croatian Craft
the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or Beers as well as homemade rakija (local grappa) on offer.
so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique Hand roasted coffee available too. Live music is often on the
has DJs spinning tunes on weekends and you can stay all agenda and there is seating available outside for those scin-
night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night tillating hot nights. Btw To je To means That is That in Eng-
out.QI2, Trg Franje Tumana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 lish, and thats that!QI2, Nigerova ulica 2, tojetocaffe@
12 71, fabriquepub@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. gmail.com, www.tojetosplit.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri
PAGBXW 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P6
EBW
Gaga
In the shade just behind Loa (the gallery area in the main
square - Pjaca) this caf has its own square where a daily Clubs
coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song Hedonist
chatter of the interesting local folk.QI2, Iza Loe 5, tel. Exclusivity is the key and this caf by day slash nightclub
(+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light
02:00. PNBXW show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract
38 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
some famous inhabitants. DJs play varied music genres so club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially
prepare to dance the night away.QE3, Put Firula 53, tel. hangover-inducing drink specials. If youre in the mood
(+385-) 091 901 09 63, z_plenkovic40@yahoo.com. Open for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere.
07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PABXW A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from
the club crush.QE3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail.
Hemingway com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
Nope, your fancy trainers wont cut it here, darlings. In fact 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW
your plimsolls wont even make it past the door. This is Splits
most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where Vanilla
bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Match the look of Splits beautiful people who frequent
Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC2, VIII. Mediteranskih this open, airy club and don some slick duds before mak-
igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, elvis.k@net.hr, www. ing the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. Youll find
hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes
PAGBXW on the speakers and a hip decor.QC2, Mediteranskih
igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 169 00 00, sandro.jelavic@
Judino Drvo hotmail.com, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse Sat 08:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PAGBXW
this is the perfect place for a new club, as its located
away from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from
the ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and casino platinum
dingy space. Their program offers music nights, filled with
performances by a variety of singers, as well as theatre and Located within 5* hotel Atrium, very close to city
film nights.QE1, Kopilica 24, antonia.kuzmanic@gmail. center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker
com, www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside
PJAULEGW underground garage, money exchange office, bar
lounge.QD2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385-
OHara 21) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00
Small groups of Splits young hell-raisers mark the way - 24:00. PGXW
to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 39
Sightseeing
Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable
for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An
afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should
be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Caf
Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is
home to several points of interest, including the remains
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and cha-
pels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set
of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the high-
est point on the peninsula. The islands of Bra, Hvar and
olta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can
see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B2/3.
Riva
If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog
narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian
National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quiz-
zical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone
is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a
Photo by Mara Gajinov
broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length
of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side.
essenTIAL SPLIT Its the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the
people of Split to engage in some of the activities that
Diocletians Palace have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over
(Dioklecijanova palaa) a cup of coffee and people-watching. Splits Riva con-
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from tinues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect
the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI3,
practically any emperor would be more than happy to Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.
locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his
retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was The Peristyle and The Cathedral of
completed in ten years and utilized a variety of mate- St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.
rials from all around the region, including white stone Dujma)
shipped from the island of Bra to sphinxes transported Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally
all the way from Egypt. Diocletians palace has become guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians
the quintessential living museum, as modern shops who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathe-
and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient pal- dral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of
ace complex - The part of the palace known as the the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The
basement was built during the reign of Diocletian to former emperors tomb has long since disappeared, per-
support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, haps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mau-
was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of soleum. Remnants of Diocletians rule do remain, in the
thousands of years of history. Now, its been cleaned form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can
and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently
plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the
basement can help visitors envision the layout of the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign
palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In
palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to
the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can one of Diocletians victims, the first Bishop of Salona.
be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb
of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding
meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping area and the nearby port.QJ2.
coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural
structures.QI/J2. Veli Varo
Situated west of the old town, Veli Varo is a neighbour-
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) hood full of winding streets and old apartments that is
When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatias characteristic of Dalmatia. Its well worth taking a stroll
second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of
walk through Veli Varo up to the wooded heights of the what daily life is like around Split.QH2.
their familys home. Today, the palace plays host to the st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. June - September 30th
City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun
back to Dmine Papali and his collection of sculptures and 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has
grown in subsequent years to include various paintings
and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monu- Galleries
ments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Emanuel Vidovi Gallery
Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numer- (Galerija Emanuel Vidovi)
ous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-
help tell the historical story of Split.QJ2, Papalieva 1, tel. restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to
(+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada- the career of local painter Emanuel Vidovi (1872-1953).
Croatias leading post-impressionist, Vidovi was con-
sumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic town-
A MASTER OF LIGHTNING scapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia
providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good
This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth cross-section of Vidovis uniquely hazy canvases, there
of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of is a fascinating re-creation of the artists former studio -
Smiljan, Gospi, in what was then the Austrian Em- including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of
pire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smaji. A
memory led him to flourish in school. Although he Croatian-language film about Vidovis life can be seen
failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the
moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ2,
Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@
tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June
ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life - September 30th Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open
and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will 08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
feature film and other works inspired by the inven-
tor and will be presented in cities around the globe. The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well, splitske katedrale)
awarding the best in show films or other works made The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and
about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and ba-
United States and Europe. With a name now immor- roque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from
talised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla 1522, Croatias oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the
will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest 8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century
scientists the human race has ever seen. and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiakon from the 13th
century.QJ2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.
44 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
Churches a Bribirska 10, 21000 Split
Saint Dominics Church and Monastery m +385 98 701 903
(Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) e info@galerijajaksic.com
Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint w www.galerijajaksic.com
Dominics Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it ac-
quired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the
beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque
altars, the painting of the Miracle in Suriano by Jacopo
Palma Jr and the Vision in the Temple, as well as the gothic
crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and Sep-
tember there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ2/3, Hrvojeva 2,
tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.
Bavljenac - The whole island is covered in dry stone walls, Photo by Boris Kaan
A dry stone wall, fence or suhozid is a structure made of have them interlock accordingly to ensure durability and
natural stone without the use of a binding material such stability.
as mortar. The construction of dry stone walls, and other When we talk about dry stone constructed shelters in Croa-
structures made without mortar, demand special skills and tia, our attention must be turned to the kaun in Istria, the
traditions handed down over generations. They are a sig- komarda in the Kvarner region, bunja in Dalmatia and trim
nificant part of the cultural heritage of the greater Mediter- on the island of Hvar. These circular-shaped huts and their
ranean area stretching back to ancient times. conical or stepped roofs were originally used as dwellings
In prehistoric times when neolithic farming took hold in the for people, but later shifted their purpose to house agricul-
European hinterland, former cave-dwelling people built tural tools, farm equipment, and ultimately as emergency
their homes, fences and animal shelters using wood. Mean- shelters for shepherds to take refuge from a passing storm.
while, in southern Europe and along the Mediterranean, If you wish to see examples of dry stone walls in the city of
wood was in large part difficult to find, and due to frequent Split, look no further than Marjan park. The citys forested
droughts and resulting wildfires, wooden structures were park is intertwined with a network of mortarless walls and
also impractical. Different building techniques developed fences that cover nearly the entire surface of the park. It
in these areas which took advantage of the plentiful stone is also possible to run into examples of the circular field
harvested from the rocky terrain. It was in this way that houses typical of Dalmatia mentioned earlier.
dry stone construction began to shape Dalmatia and the In order to preserve and maintain this traditional form of
structures which dominate the area even today. In addition construction, the Dragodid project was launched. Dry
to walls, the technique was used to build small dwellings; stone workshops are organized whereby participants can
fences encircling vineyards, arable land and pastures; and learn traditional building techniques. If anyone is interested
in the construction of wells. The Premui trail, a 57 kilome- in participating in one of the workshops, information can
tre-long path cutting through the highest peaks of north- be found on their website or FB page: www.dragodid.org.
ern and central Velebit, is yet another famous example of
mortarless architecture. Further advantages of this type of
construction is that they protect against soil erosion and The Dry Stone Workshop
serve as shelter for various plants and animals; including, The peak seasons for dry stone construction in Dalmatia are
lizards, snakes, frogs, bees and insects. Dry wall construc- the spring and fall. Construction subsides slighly during the
tion is a reflection of the diligent and often hard life of the summer because the days are too hot. The dry stone work-
locals who collected the stones from the environment to shop which is traditionally held on the first day of the Lav
use in the myriad structures. But by doing so, agricultural ender Festival in Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar - this
land and living space for animals would be cleaned of cum- year falls on Friday June 24th. For information regarding
bersome stone. When building any dry stone structure, it the autumn workshops, please follow the Dragodid web-
is of extreme importance to select the proper stones and site and Facebook page.
48 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Split Surroundings
North of Split
Some might say that Trogir is the mini-me of Split, its a
fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with
its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and
squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has
grand views for taking photos. For another step back in
time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman set-
tlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor
Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town
gate, fortress and other historical buildings.
Marina
Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is
located in the center of Dalmatia. Its situated exactly
halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split
and ibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is sur-
rounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quad-
rangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th cen-
tury, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses
scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well
as the St. Philip and Jacobs Cave, famous for having been
visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The
Novo mesto - Bra, Photo by Vinja Arambai
Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dal-
matian towns: Vinie, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook
the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the
surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions
and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are
still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and
is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous
bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore
this time-honoured area.
Solin
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman set-
tlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its
primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianitys early
history. According to the Bible, Pauls student Titus trave-
led to the region and, because of its sea connections with
Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have
attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the
towns role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left be-
hind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the
title of Croatias Pompeii.
Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos
factories as its principal industries, which did little to en-
hance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations
exposing the remains of the former Roman town located
nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town
a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the
possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two
thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism,
Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its
natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been care-
fully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that
are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if youre
not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the
end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir
and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored
there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in
the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.
Klis
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily acces-
sible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 51
Split Surroundings
sheer cliffs just inland from Split. Theres an excellent view white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls
of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town
the A-1 motorway. Partially restored and now an outdoor one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd
museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a
will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and whistle and face some of the islands.
soak in the great views in every direction. There is a caf
right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first men- Podstrana
tioned in written records in the first half of the 10th cen- Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split.
tury. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area Its well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch
but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in re- to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive
taking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Vene- orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a
tians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you beautiful Mediterranean town.
visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. The first settlements in this area can be traced back to
Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent
through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish inva-
to the hinterland. sions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological ex-
cavations and the remains of buildings and monuments
Klis Tourist Board from the different time periods. Historical monuments,
QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, tzo-klis@email.t- such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and
com.hr, www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century,
are still standing today in between the various hotels and
apartments.
South of Split
Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omi, yet podstrana Tourist Board
another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@
to serenity. Omi is home to the river Cetina which hosts tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:00 -
action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing, 21:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.
Islands
Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies The Vranjaa cave
offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the
same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and his- The Vranjaa cave is made up of two chambers. The
torical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, winer- first, the existence of which was already known in the
ies, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discov-
they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The ered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this
beaches are second to none with Bra, Hvar and olta just plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller
some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different chambers in colours ranging from green through blue,
story to tell. some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals.
The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant tem-
perature of 15C all year round. Vranjaa is suitable for
olta visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature
courts, olta is located about nineteen nautical miles from lovers from all over. The cave, Vranjaa, is located in the
Split, just west of Bra. The island is another of those special foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m
are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from
the eight villages on olta might strike visitors as unusu- 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June,
ally kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September),
of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrange-
which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal ment (November - March). Guided tours, which last
environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for
not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098
The islands fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning 74 90 00 for more information.
and returning with the days catch, which is then prepared
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 53
Split Surroundings
for the evenings meal and accompanied by some excellent the summit of Bras highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca
homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the mon-
sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not astery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village
survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adven- of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that
ture from time to time and olta has that to offer, as well. starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach
The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play per- the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1
fect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol
and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive road. If you dont have an SUV you run the risk of ruin-
groves and vineyards that supply the islands other princi- ing your vehicles suspension. Both trails are well marked,
pal products. In short, olta is a nice mix of atmosphere, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the
nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be re-
as a short stay. Either way, theres something for everyone. warded with great views plus Blacas ascetic architecture
and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb
olta Tourist Board to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest
QObala sv. Tereze 3, Roga, olta, tel. (+385-21) 65 mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked
46 57, solta@solta.hr, www.visitsolta.com. Open trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted
07:00 - 21:00. road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol
road just east of the town of Nereia. The views from
the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorke-
Bra ling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent
Bra, the Croatian Adriatics third largest island, offers spec- equipment and organize dive cruises. Its easy to spend
tacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the
of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, Croatian Adriatic.If you are going to be on Bra for a week
retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, theres much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic
Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Bra by Jadrolinija types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the
car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on attractive coastal villages of Bra. Just trying to pronounce
the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, their names should prove interesting. These include Su-
which is on the northwest. tivan, Bobovia, Loia and Milna on the east side
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatias most of the island; Splitska, Postira, Puia and Povlja on
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). Its a point jut- the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All
ting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quar-
side of the Bra. However, this beach is liable to be crowd- ters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the
ed during the summer, especially with younger people. seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters;
Its also a popular spot for windsurfing. If youd prefer a medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates
less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views off-
at Lovrenina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the shore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes
middle of Bras north side. There are great views of the and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree
mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of
medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sight- Bra, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers.
seeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin ol-
krip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau al- ive oil (ekstra djeviansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There
most in the middle of Bra. are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with
krip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia a travel bureau about where that is possible. Bra white
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture marble has been exported all over the world. Its claimed
and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the that Bra marble was even used in the construction of the
Middle Ages. krips Museum of Bra contains many an- American White House. And of course, it was used in the
cient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, includ- building of many local houses. You will see several quar-
ing a relief of Hercules. ries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Bra, - a tort lawyers dream.
you could extend your activities from whats listed above There are two caves worth exploring on Bra: Zmajeva
to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century (Dragon) and Kopaina. Theyre located between Su-
Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in petar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week
Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and to spend on Bra you wouldnt suffer for lack of things to
Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the do. You could spend many more days just driving around
Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more in- or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.
teresting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike,
is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in Supetar Tourist Information Centre
1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, info@supetar.hr,
steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
54 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Split Surroundings
don and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronom- huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komia. Dragodid is inter-
ic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the esting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which
marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest has conserved its exceptional form.
sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina
Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, dont (Medvjedina Cave) on Bievo, and the Zelena pilja
miss the chance to meander around the renaissance sum- (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldnt be the
mer villas, Titos cave above Podpilja or the ruins of the marvel that it is.
ancient city. And if you have time, take a trip to Palagrua island and
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia. enjoy a true marine experience!
One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek Its worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the is-
colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The land of Vis, for the island is known as the island of sweet-
ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of ness. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele),
the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina
Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas
Gospina batarija (Our Ladys Battery) also known for (artioke sa bobom i biima), octopus in red wine (hobot-
its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its nica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two
bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a
The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year
churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of
the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the grape and fennel spirits. And, lets not forget the islands
the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. charming wines, Vika Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the
Komia is a fishing village located at the southern end delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis in-
of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, clude flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.
which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church
in Komia, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the Vis Tourist Board
village offering a spectacular view of below. Qetalite Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@
The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 -
township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 59
OMI
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish in-
tia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back
winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century.
until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omi there are eight famous churches. Three are
of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the
the small Dalmatian town of Omi, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost
turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining church-
known as the Omi Riviera. However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and in-
not always so quiet. Omi gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke
because of a band of pirates, the Omiki gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omi
Corsairs of Omi, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at
area in special boats called arrows, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the
their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrava)
into the mouth of the river. is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an
While its true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon
to be seen cruising the waters of the Omi Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Bra, Hvar and
than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, theres olta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.
still plenty of adventure to be had And when youre finished exploring
in Omi. The mountainous ar- OMI Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omi and its
eas around the town make for great Trg kneza Miroslava b.b., history, the towns central location
hiking spots, the water is an invit- makes it a perfect starting point for
ing crystalline blue and the history tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, the rest of your Dalmatian coast
of the town can be explored in the info@visitomis.hr adventure, hopefully minus any
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabe- www.visitomis.hr dreams of terrorizing the seas as a
la, which the Corsairs of Omi used modern-day Corsair of Omi.
Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these
leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a
long stretch of pure hedonism. new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The build-
If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white ing of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of
pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, at- the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in
tracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. Youll Europe.
pass through Omi, once the stronghold of renowned pi- In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was
rates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a
through a spectacular canyon into the sea. treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular
Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, mountain settings, they have great architectural and eth-
some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela nological value. The village way of life was synonymous
a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention
looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makar- agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (tav-
ska Riviera, and this is where youll find some of the most erns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic
photographed, most famous and most prized beach re- Dalmatian cuisine.
sorts on the Adriatic. As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the re-
This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine sorts in this guide, from Makarska its an easy ride to some
per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an av- larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd,
erage year-round temperature of 20C reaching summer- Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous
time peaks of 23-27C. for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well
Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorii.
and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and sea- Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of
food, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a
can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region.
times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Bra and
fruits and cherries. And of course, theres plenty of local Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or in-
wine. dulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!
Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly
old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since Baka Voda
the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under Baka Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska
threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants,
their village on high ground under the protective shoulders in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.
of the mountains. With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in ho-
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Makarska Riviera
tels, campsites and private apartments, Baka Voda is pop-
Arriving on the ular with young people and families with children. Theres
Makarska Riviera plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that
transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertain-
The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km ment laid on.
away. The airport is served by domestic and inter- Baka Vodas ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a
national scheduled flights, as well as charters dur- mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on an-
ing summer. For timetable information, see www. cient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited
split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska youll need since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks trad-
to take a bus or hire a car. For more information ed here and the Romans settled here - the latter named
about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriv- the town Aronia.
ing & Transport in Split. Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this
coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the
By car: if you take the A1 motorway, take the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important
estanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery
one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Za- and glass, which you can see in the town museum. Theres
greb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.
Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omi The inhabitants of Baka Voda once made their living by
if youre travelling at the weekend during peak fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Bako Polje,
season. where today theres a large camp site. However, there are
still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine
By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!
Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aro-
Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Monte- nia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside
negro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobus- villages of Bast and Topii - themselves largely depopu-
ni-kolodvor.com. lated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural
and cultural value of these villages has been recognised:
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway Topii has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heri-
network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploe, tage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to
then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and
www.hznet.hr. delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some
authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns.
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin Theyre also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak
on Bra island, or to Drvenik further south from (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path
Suuraj on Hvar island. For information see www. that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna,
jadrolinija.hr. Bratu and Krvavica.
QBaka Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel.
Main Bus Station (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.bas-
(Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) kavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From September 15
There is one desk for information and tickets, open Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facil-
ity (no lockers) has the same working hours as the Brela
ticket office, price 5kn per hour per item.QAnte A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly
Starevia 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33. close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling
effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk in and enjoy them is irresistible.
On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands
tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters
tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative
07:00 - 21:00. scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches
here have won numerous international accolades.
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with
From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela
island of Bra, while to get to Hvar island (Suuraj) developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside
you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good
transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head
www.connecto-taxi.com. up the mountainside towards the older parts of the set-
tlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and
showcasing the culture of old Brela: its well worth taking
62 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Makarska Riviera
a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into
their visitor centre where you can find out about the old
churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted
around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point
for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst land-
scapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure
sports challenges. Youll find maps and information at the
information centre thats also located there.
QBrela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel.
(+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr.
Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Drvenik
29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with
the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is
dotted with coves and sandy bays. Its peaceful, friendly
and the scenery is gorgeous - its a great place for a peace-
ful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you
can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - its best if you have
some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by
a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St. George in
the old hillside settlement.
QDrvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385- Squid, Photo by Vinja Arambai
21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr.
Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00. refreshing breezes, its not hard to see why tourists started
to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.
Gradac The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the
When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, weve period following the Second World War. Sometimes large
come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine for-
several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well ests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and
as Gradac itself theres Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a
Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back re- healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their
sort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to holidays.
choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed
in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying
mounds youll find a 16th century defensive tower in ista the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars
and the old chapel of St. Pascal on Plana hill. A point of and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and
significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monas- experiences off the mass tourist radar.
tery of St. Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kai Mioi There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.
lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very The citys roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when
popular book of folk verse which both served as a histori- it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the
cal document and helped develop the modern Croatian Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave
language. their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The
QGradac Tourist Information Centre, Trg Soline 11, Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD.
tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Gradac The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the
Tourist Board, gradac@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr. Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccu-
rum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality,
Makarska which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed
As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Ma- long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French
karska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Ma- and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the
karska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix
a busy waterfront lined with cafs and restaurants. Sailors of historic buildings you see today.
and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll Perhaps the most important historic building in the town
lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formi- is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a
dable Biokovo mountains above. Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some
Theres a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sun- spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The
shine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The
houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the towns main square, Kaiev trg, has the Church of St. Mark,
coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront
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Makarska Riviera
youll find the town museum and the Church of St. Philip.
The church of St. Peter resides on a green headland in a de- sport
lightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about
the sights. With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is
Whats more, its well worth exploring the mountainside an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cy-
villages such as Bakovii, Kotiina, Makar, Puharii and cling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks
Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite
centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. Youll its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy,
come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: acci-
by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at dents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through
Kotiina. It was founded by Father Jure Radi, the Francis- the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist
can monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road
of Shells. Father Radi also created a nature trail on Biokovo runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure
which is just one option for a spectacular hike. peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are manda-
Although largely depopulated following a strong earth- tory). Theres also an 8km gravel track from Staza to
quake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to Sarana, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent
renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature
the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tuepi is
and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are
peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences. scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo
QMakarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climb-
16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com. ers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omi. There are also
hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:30 - 22:00. climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska
and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above
Podgora the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points
Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic at Miletin bor and Prinovac in the Biokovo Nature
peaks, its not hard to see how Podgora got its name, Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a
which means under the mountain. raft along the fast-flowing Cetina river. And then,
With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradi- of course, theres the sea. You can sail (or learn to),
tion dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch
of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You
summer - its second only to Makarska when it comes to can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea
tourist numbers. Its not hard to see why: the combina- fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the
tion of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey moun- experience will be unforgettable.
tain are a tourists holy trinity.
This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly
performances from mid-June to the end of August: clas- ivogoe - Now were 20 km away from Split, heading
sical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock south. ivogoe is a resort made up of a string of five
and folk dance performances bring drama and culture tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava.
to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgoras inhabitants Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the
for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the
and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of coast road.
Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an QPodgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kaia Mioia 2,
entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park. tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www.
Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the follow- tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
ing places also fall within the Podgora district:
Dranice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 Tuepi
souls here. Theres a choice of pebbly coves, and with a A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime
little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the enjoyment, Tuepi boasts the longest beach on the Ma-
coves theres a cave named Medvidina where a local fish- karska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling
erman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a easy access into the dazzling blue water.
critically endangered species. Tuepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riv-
Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant iera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after
little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of
long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the invasion. Youll find a treasury of history and folk architec-
Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between ture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers
the Venetians and the Turks. Theres a picturesque wa- and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman
terfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone
and kicking. buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy
64 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Makarska Riviera
locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The
best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is
today a good hotel, Hotel Katelet. Another villa in 1911
became the home of the Tuepi Oil Growers Collective,
founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father
Mate imi. It is probably due to the work done by him
and the association that Tuepis olive oil is rumoured to
be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine vil-
las modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century.
Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta
rooftops, theres a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A
summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. An-
thonys day (Tuepis patron saint), while the ka Kultura
festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside vil-
lages of Srida Sela, Podpe, ovii, Mraviii, evelji, imii
and Podstup.
QTuepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21)
62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com.
July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. June, September
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Museums
Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca)
A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac,
a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea
of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in
the Andrijaevi family, and collecting and displaying the www.pp-biokovo.hr
material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of
items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of every-
day objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and
20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking,
carpentry, sailing and music. There are also fragments
from a Roman villa rustica. Theres a lovely collection of
folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic
surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75
61, info@museum-gradac.com, www.museum-gradac.
com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - Au
gust 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission free.
tery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinovi (Kip
wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served don Mihovila Pavlinovia)
as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.
the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied nat- And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don
ural sciences and humanities, founding a library which Mihovil Pavlinovi, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who
today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival,
manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr. a political movement campaigning for the right to self-
Jure Radi, was a keen biologist who led the creation determination of the Croatian people. Theres a statue of
of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after
active today and is based in the monastery. Its Mala- him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an
cological Museum, one of Makarskas top attractions, unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendi in a colourful
is a respected institution with good links with similar style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.
museums around the world. The Institute also has a
herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole)
regions.QFranjevaki put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) Baka Vodas little harbour is the proud owner of an im-
61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr. pressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know
that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who cre-
Landmarks ated the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singers
Kalalarga (iroka ulica) grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches
iroka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in
a Croatisation of the Italian phrase calle larga, mean- 1999.QBaka Voda.
ing Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by
modern standards, but back in the day this was the very Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra)
core of the town, the hub where everything was hap- Watching protectively over Makarskas waterfront from a
pening. Makarskas Kalelarga winds through the town, forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.
the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome In case youre wondering, that key hes holding in his hand
shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalma- there is to Heavens gate, so you might like to be on your
68 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Makarska Riviera
best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela)
Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brelas
as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the
him meant the Rock thanks to his steadfast nature. He natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey
went on to become the founder of the Church and the first rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they
pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual
spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a that is part of the Makarska Rivieras very identity. The
walk.QSt Peters Peninsula, Makarska. rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing
please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.
Stone Flag Post (Markovac / tandarac
(Kameni stup za zastavu)) The Seagulls Wing Monument
Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column (Spomenik Galebova krila)
bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for On a hillside high above Podgoras harbour is a striking
a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagulls Wing
that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of monument. During the Second World War, Podgora be-
the Tonoli Palace, Makarska. came the headquarters of the Partisans flotilla, which
helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugosla-
Stone Tower (Kamena kula) via. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the
During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created
200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived by sculptor Rajko Radovi, the image of the bird in flight
in constant fear of raids. Its not unusual, driving around symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its
the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The
to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives
creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Poda- fighting against fascism.QPodgora.
ca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is sur-
rounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake. The Venetian Water Fountain
QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. (Gradska esma)
A spectacular stone structure in front of St Marks Church
The Andrija Kai-Mioi Monument featuring three lions heads spouting water from their
(Spomenik fra Andriji Kaiu Mioiu) mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the
Since Andrija Kai-Mioi is to the Croatian language pret- fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occu-
ty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, its pied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible
no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts
place on Makarskas central square. His statues plinth has of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public
a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a water fountain - this is where people came to get their
recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendi, the monuments supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a
creator. Rendi, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the
of Croatias greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.
featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned QTrg fra Andrije Kaia-Mioia, Makarska.
by the poet in his famous songbook, Pleasant Conversa-
tion of the Slavic Peoples. This expression of national con-
sciousness made Kai-Mioi a hero in these lands, but Palaces
it didnt go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy The Ivanievi Family Palace
of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally (Barokna palaa obitelji Ivanievi)
added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected. Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanievi
Kai-Mioi was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest
of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs,
a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. Its
development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, privately-owned and not open to the public.QLitun,
a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije Kaia- Makarska.
Mioia, Makarska.
The Tonoli Palace (Palaa Tonoli)
The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Ve-
Tuepis olive oil press and oil-makers association were netian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it
founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsatu- houses Makarskas Town Museum, and youll also find the
rated-style health today: Tuepis oil is among the most Tourist Association office here. Again, its in the local Ba-
prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making roque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a
tradition in Tuepi was created in the form of this pair of romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava
millstones set on the waterfront.QTuepi. 16, Makarska.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 69
Leisure
PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES
WITH OUR PREVIEW
Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine
and beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city
that are suitable for families with children, to almost un-
touched open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure
and nature lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the
beaches are named Bene, Kajuni and Katelet; locals
will tell you that without doubt the most famous beach
is Bavice, where you can play the traditional home
game picigin. The islands within the Split archipelago
are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and
have fun on the scenic beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the
island of Bra. This picturesque beach has been declared
the most beautiful beach in Croatia and it is unique in
that it changes its shape and position, depending from
where the wind blows. The island of Bievo on the south
side hides the Porat Bay which is remotely visited as it
can only be reached by boat. The bays around the lit-
tle island Proizd, near Korula, bare the unusual sight
of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh salty aroma in
the air!
On the way to Makarska, visitors will come across a se-
ries of charming beaches, we simply have to highlight
Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaa in Omi,
Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baka Voda.
For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach we
definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Os-
ejava peninsula.
Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline
aficionados will find it tough to choose in what to do
first with the abundant range of adventure activities on
offer. The Omi area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina can-
yon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari,
trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the auda-
cious adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave
something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari
on the islands of iovo near Split. It is here that the new
discipline of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also.
The islands are best known for cycling tours, diving,
and kayaking at sea. Bol on Bra is particularly known
as a destination for kite and wind surfing. The thrill is
real we tell you!
Last but not least, for something more tranquil there
are wellness centres with vast services including (mas-
sage, sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which
can be found within the five star hotels and resorts
which are in the vicinity of Split.
So theres plenty to do from leisure to adventure, pick ,n,
choose and enjoy the cruise!
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70 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Art galleries
Atelier Mikuli
Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter
Neno Mikuli whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures
of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QC2,
Teslina 14b, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@
gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement. N
Jaki Gallery
The owner and father, Draen, is a known stonemasonry,
the mother Ida Stipi Jaki, a fashion designer, their son
Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has
a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first
stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. Their gal-
lery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculp-
tures using white Bra stone by Lovre and oil paintings by
Dina.QD2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 64 77 10/(+385-
21) 64 78 57, info@galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00 -
13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Jaman
Split artist Danijel Jamans original, vibrant and colourful
paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sail-
ing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching
artwork!QI2, ubieva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-)
098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jaman-
art.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A
Mori
A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection Paparella
of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can
into Croatian fine art!QJ1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps
31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr, to small boat modelsall decorated and created with a
www.galerijamoric.com/en. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 lot of love and taste.QJ2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21)
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A 78 54 21, galerijapaparella@gmail.com. Open 09:00 -
20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Flea market Studio Narana
& street art Local graphic artist Pavo Maji and his wife have been at
it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting
Art market @ Prokurative exhibits by Croatian and international artists and partici-
Head to the Prokurative and youre bound to bump pating in the local art scene.QJ2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel.
into the citys creative individuals and organisa- (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com,
tions. Lots of goodies to buy, events and perfor- www.studionaranca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
mances to see, themed art exhibits and oenological Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
tastings!QI2, Prokurative (Trg Republike). Thu, Fri,
Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Croatian design
Strossmayer Park (ardin) Arterija
You never know what you can find but by attending Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion de-
this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of sign store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques
Splits inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep. when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in
See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, mag- Split. Owner Gorana Guliija updates her collection regu-
azines and other rare things that are up for sale. The larly and she also promotes the works of some of Croa-
fair becomes especially popular and lively during the tias best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a
summer months, when the city is flooded with tour- visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with
ists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. passion!QI2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091
547 71 41. Open 10:00-21:00.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 71
Shopping
Croata Think Pink
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a One of Splits concept stores which opened in 2004 and
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes
and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at
several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be its best! Also at (J-2) Marulieva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI2,
that much more special. Croatas shops in Dubrovnik and Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@
Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:30. JA
to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova irina 7
(Voni trg).QJ2, Kreimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+385-
21) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun Delicatessen
09:00 - 14:00. A Blato 1902
Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato
Get get get 1902 company derive from the island of Korula.QD2,
One store that has made in Croatia written all over it! It is Domovinskog rata 31, blato@blato1902.hr, www.
a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group blato1902.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products. Closed Sun. A
The works of academic painters, photographers, archi-
tects and others are presented.QJ2, Dominisova 16, Dobro jutro
tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr, www. Titled good morning, this bakery is chock block with cus-
getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 tomers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and
- 18:00. A cakes such as sirnica, krotule and more. They also have
fresh goats milk.QD2, Domovinskog rata 31, tel. (+385-
Koza unikati 21) 38 22 45, balinicedoo@gmail.com. Open 06:00 -
The Zorii family create, design and produce beautiful 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.
and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wal-
lets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of Enoteka Terra
the products are made on the classic Singer sewing ma- A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality interna-
chine and without electricity. It doesnt get much more tional and Croatian wines such as Poip or Plavac mali,
authentic than that!QI2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-) champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gas-
099 253 14 69, koza.unikati@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - tronomic delicacies.QD3, Prilaz brae Kaliterna 6, tel.
21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A (+385-21) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.
vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30.
Ledenko Closed Sun. A
Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail hand-
made Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be Gligora
the winning formula for that special occasion.QD2/I1, Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It
Kaieva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/(+385-) 091 444 43 produces one of Croatias finest and most recognised chees-
05, info@ledenko.hr, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 - es.QD3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42
13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A 59, trgovina.split@gligora.com, www.gligora.com. Open
07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
Oleoteka Uje
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils,
jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. Its all
about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, olive oil.
Also at (I-2) ubieva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00. QJ2, Marulieva
1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:00. June - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Orao
A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main
road, but dont let that discourage you! Authentic prosciut-
to and cheese from the ibenik and Zadar County which
can be bought in whole pieces or sliced.QD2, Domovin
skog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00,
16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Pipi
Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe
this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked
its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long
history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80s, Pipi
has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia,
and especially the Dalmatian region.QD2, P.I.ajkovskog
1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, robi@dalmacijavino.hr,
www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. A
Vinoteka Viola
Located in the heart of Split, this wine store wont
leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find
and sample a wide range of superb wines that will
surely deepen your love for vino!QD2, Ulica Ivana
Gundulia 36, tel. (+385-21) 48 01 13, info@vinoteka-
viola.com, www.vinoteka-viola.com. Open 08:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun. A
Souvenirs
Atelier Perajica
Right on the Peristyle in Splits ancient core, three genera-
tions of photographers have kept their family studio here,
amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split
nostalgic and modern. Theres also a wonderful collection
of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace.QJ2, Peris
til bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica.
com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
74 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Nered
Sheik antique! Wonderful decorative items from cushions,
greeting cards, bags, ceramics and hundreds of other
products all made as a result of an individual approach
to each. Antea and Jovana take vintage household items
only to restore and redesign them, giving them a new life
and context.QJ2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385-) 099 194
92 48, split@neredshop.com, www.neredshop.com.
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Specialty
Havana Cigar Shop
Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up,
dudes.QI2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@
havana-cigar-shop.com, www.havana-cigar-shop.com.
Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Affordable Art
Bowls, Cups and Plates by
Lidia Boevski
If you would like to include a unique bowl, cup or plate
in your home collection, then visit the GetGetGet
Concept Store at Dominisova 16. After completing a
degree in Applied Arts, Boevski worked in textile and
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 75
Shopping
Dujam
5 Stars QE2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax
Atrium (+385-21) 27 30 81, info@hoteldujam.com, www.
QD2, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, hoteldujam.com. doubles 84- 94. P i H A U
fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium.hr, www. LG K W hhh
hotel-atrium.hr. doubles 1650kn. PZ i OHA
R6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh Peristil
QJ2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90
70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil.
4 Stars com, www.hotelperistil.com. doubles 135 - 162.
Art Hotel P i A 6 G B K X W hhh
QD2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax
(+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.
hr. doubles 135- 170. Pi HARUFLGB Hostels
KDwW hhhh Golly&Bossy
QI2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09
Marmont 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.gollybossy.com. 87
QI2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129 dorm beds, 27 - 33 per person. PJ H A G B
01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel. KW
com, www.marmonthotel.com. doubles 340. Pi
ARLGBKXW hhhh Silver Gate
QD3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-)
Radisson Blu Resort 099 282 38 44, silvergatehostel@gmail.com, www.
QF3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) silvergatehostel.com. 4 Total rooms 26 dorm beds,
30 30 31, info.split@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu. 17 - 25 per person. PJ R N G W
com/resort-split. doubles 175 - 325. Pi THA
R6UFLGBKDCwW hhhh Split Hostel Booze and Snooze
QI2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@
Vestibul Palace splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm
QJ2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax beds, 17 - 27 per person. PN G W
(+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www.
vestibulpalace.com. doubles 395. PZ i TJA Sunseekers
RLGBKW hhhh QI2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 291
21 27, sunseekers@net.hr. 18 dorm beds, 15 - 30 per
person. PJ N G W
3 Stars
Adriana Tchaikovsky Hostel
QI2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. QD2, Ulica Petra Ilia ajkovskog 4, tel./fax (+385-
(+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@hotel- 21) 31 71 24 tel. (+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@t-hostel.
adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. doubles 614- 1214kn. com, www.t-hostel.com. 20 dorm beds, 15 - 25 per
Pi JA6GBKXW hhh person. PJ A G W
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2016 77
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