allergic reaction of the skin with presentation of Accelerant: Alternative name for chemical en- erythema, edema and itching. hancer. Alpha-hydroxyacid (AHA): An ingredient used in Acrids: Pungent, bitter tasting substances. cosmetic and therapeutic skin care. Active: An ingredient in a formula which is sought Alveolar: The best example of alveolar structure for its special but non-medicinal performance. Any offered by mother nature is the human lung, the lung ingredient upon which the marketing claims for a and its alveolus having been described by Professor specific performance benefit for a consumer prod- Mandelbrot as a fractal structure. uct is either made or implied. Amphipathic: Constructed of both hydrophilic and Active Cosmetics: Skin care products designed hydrophobic moieties. A molecule that contains dis- to have an effect on health as well as appearance. crete polar and nonpolar regions that favor self-as- sociation into micelles and condensed phases depend- Acylceramide: An unusual linoleate-containing ing on concentration and conformation. ceramide found in the stratum corneum. Acylceramide is important for the organization of Amphiphile: A molecule with a polar head group lipids in the intercellular spaces of the stratum cor- and a nonpolar chain. Such molecules spontaneously neum and for permeability barrier function. self-assemble in polar solvents such as water. Acylglucosylceramide: An unusual linoleate-con- Amphoteric: A substance that is capable of react- taining glycosphingolipid found in the noncornified ing chemically as either an acid or a base. layers of keratinizing epithelia. It is thought to be Amylopectin: The branched glucose polymer with involved in the formation of lamellar granules and is a higher molecular weight found within the starch the precursor of the acylceramide. granule. Approximately 97% of the glucose linkages Alkoxy Silane: Compound containing an Si-O-C in amylopectin are a-D-(1 4) linkages, and the group. remaining linkages are a-D-(1 6) glucopyranosyl linkages. Alkyl Methyl Siloxane: Silicone copolymer, where some of the methyl groups are substituted by hydro- Amylose: The lower molecular weight, linear poly- carbon chains of variable alkyl chain length. mer containing a-D-(1 4) glucopyranosyl linkages found within the starch granule.