Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 15

WOODStore.

net
Browse more than 1000 plans, projects, books, techniques, & more
WOOD Store
Customer Favorites
Shop Tools & Accessories
Thank You!
Thank you for ordering a WOOD® magazine download. We
hope you enjoy being part of our online experience and that
you have fun expanding your woodworking skills.

Please remember that this copyrighted material is for your use


only. It is unlawful to share this file with someone else or to
reprint it in any form.

Bill Krier
Editor in Chief, WOOD magazine Indoor Furniture

Adobe Acrobat Reader


Troubleshooting Guide
If you can read this page, your Acrobat Reader program is
working correctly! But you may still have problems or specific Outdoor Furniture
issues, such as printing and saving your downloadable file.

My printer won’t print the text correctly


Almost all printing problems are due to not enough free
system resources memory. The files are very memory
intensive because they include graphics, text, and photos.
Close all other programs/applications and print directly out
of the Acrobat Reader program, not your Web browser.

Patterns are not printing full-size


Make sure your printer is set to print at 100 percent and that
“print to fit” is not checked. These settings are selected in the
printer setup or printer options. Mission Furniture

I can’t save my file now that it’s downloaded


You must save the plan when you download the file.
Download the file again, except this time try right-clicking on
the red download button. A menu window will open. Select
“Save target as” or “Save link as” to save the file to your
hard drive. Once saved, you can open it up with Adobe
Acrobat Reader.

For more details on using Adobe Acrobat Reader please


visit our online help section at:
http://www.woodstore.net/clicherforde.html Visit the WOOD Store at:
WOODStore.net
DOWNLOADABLE ONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

®
http://www.woodonline.com

Whether built as a
stand-alone piece or
as a member of our
complete bedroom
set shown below,
this oak nightstand
offers storage and
good looks in the
same neat package.
And you can choose
between country or
traditional styling.
Other members of
the set are available
as separate down-
loadable plans.

Country-
Fresh
DP-00075
Nightstand
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2001
Page 1 of 13
TOP 18‹"
PARTIAL ROUND- 19‡"
OVER DETAIL L 1„"
⁄ "
11 64
I ,J ,L ¸" shank hole,
fi" round- See Partial R=1fi" countersunk on back
over bit Round-Over detail for profile. 15fi"
¤" E D
H
No round- over
C B
G
Router table E 19Œ"

Nylon tape 15" long


Q B A
DRAWER Œ"
G D
O 14"
C #8 x 1" F.H.
N A wood screw
F
P F
N B E
CARCASE
M
¤" round-over
No round-over G
2" wooden knob 1„"
ˇ" T-nut
J
EXPLODED VIEW K
J
BASE
See Partial Round-Over I K
detail for profile.
Biscuits
R=‡"
K ˇ-18 x 3" hanger bolt
trimmed to expose
#8 x 1fi" F.H.
wood screw K 1" of bolt

Page 2 of 13
* C * D* G G Q
Bill of Materials D
Finished Size
E* E* E* E*

Matl.
‡ x 5fi x 96" Oak

Qty.
Part
T W L
CARCASE
F*
I J J K K K K
A sides ‡" 16‡" 19Œ" OP 2
1„ x 7‹ x 96" Oak
B top, btm.
& middle ‡" 16‡" 14fi" OP 3
*Plane or resaw
C front trim ›" 1‡" 19Œ" O 2 L L L to the thicknesses
D back trim ›" 2‡" 19Œ" O 2 listed in the
1„ x 7‹ x 60" Oak Bill of Materials.
E top & btm.
trim ‹" 2‡" 12fi" O 4
F vert. front M N* N* O*
caps 1" 1¤" 19Œ" O 2 ‡ x 5fi x 72" Oak
G horz. front
caps ‡" Œ" 14" O 3
H back ‹" 15fi" 19Œ" P 1
CUTTING DIAGRAM
BASE
B B B
I front 1„" 3fi" 16‡" O 1
J sides 1„" 3fi" 14‡" O 2
K feet 3fi"-diam. 5" LO 4 A A
H
TOP P
L* top 1„" 19‡" 18‹" EO 1
DRAWER ‹ x 24 x 48" Oak plywood ‡ x 48 x 48" Oak plywood

M front ‡" 5¤" 13Œ" O 1


N sides fi" 5¤" 17‹" C 2
O back fi" 5¤" 13›" C 1
P bottom ‹" 13›" 16‡" OP 1
Q stop ›" ‡" 3" O 1
*Cut parts marked with * oversized. Trim to fin-
ished size according to the how-to instructions.
Materials Key: OP–oak plywood, O–oak; LO–
laminated oak; EO–edge-joined oak; C–choice of
oak, aspen, soft maple, or poplar.
Supplies: #8Œ×1", #8×1‹", #8×1fi", flathead
wood screws; #10×1‹" panhead screws with flat
washers; 4–ˇ" T-nuts; ˇ-18×3" hanger bolts
(not necessary if you buy the preturned feet);
stain, clear finish.
Buying Guide
Hardware. For the country version we used 2– 2"
oak knobs, #61710. For the traditional version
we used 2–3fi" brass bail pulls, #35402. Self-
adhesive and self-lubricating nylon tape, 10
mil. thick by fi" wide by 10' long (1 roll needed),
#70615. Rockler Woodworking and Hardware,
4365 Willow Drive, Medina, MN 55340. To order Stained and fitted with brass hardware, the nightstand fits in
call 800/279-4441, or go to www.rockler.com. nicely with most traditional decors.
Turned feet. For the country version, use four
3fi" diameter by 5"-long oak feet, #A0557HB5.
For the traditional version, use four 5" diameter
by 3"-long oak beaded bun feet, #A0551HB. For
current prices contact Adams Wood Products,
P.O. Box 728, Morristown, TN 37815-0728, Or
call 423/587-2942 to place an order.

Page 3 of 13
14fi"
SLOT DETAIL
16‡" 7⁄64" pilot hole
7 64⁄ " pilot hole ‡" deep
fi" deep
› x ‰" slot B L 1„"
#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw Flat washer B › x ‰" slot
1" counterbore
Q #10 x 1‹" ‹" deep
E ‡" rabbet panhead screw
‹" deep #10 x 1‹"
A panhead
D ‹" Flat washer screw
C
16‡" ‹"
B
D

A E
E ‡" dado ¤"
‹" deep A round-
over ¤" round-over
19Œ"

19Œ" C
F B ¤" round-overs
2‡"
2‡"
‡" rabbet
‹" deep F
fi" round-over
#8 x 1‹" F.H. E
¤" round-over wood screw
1¤" 1" 12fi"
¸" shank hole,
countersunk
CARCASE
›"
Start out with a 1‡"
plywood carcase
1 From ‡" oak plywood (walnut or attaching the top (L). Drill the hole reinforce the assembly. Wipe off any
cherry would be equally impressive), on the bottom side of the top shelf excess glue with a damp cloth.
cut the sides (A) and top, bottom, (B) for the stop (Q) now.
and middle shelf (B) to the sizes 4 Dry-clamp the carcase (A, B) Add the trim and
listed in the Bill of Materials. together, checking for square. Drill cover the screw holes
2 Cut the rabbets and dadoes in the and countersink the mounting holes 1 Cut the front and back trim piec-
sides (A) where dimensioned on the centered over the rabbets and dadoes es (C, D) to size from ›" stock. Cut
Side View of the Parts View drawing where shown on the Parts View the top and bottom trim pieces (E)
on page 10. drawing on page 10. The trim will to size from ‹" stock.
3 Using the Carcase Top Shelf draw- cover the screws later. 2 Rout ¤" round-overs along the
ing on the Parts View on page 7 for 5 Glue the carcase together, check- edges of the trim pieces (C, D,
reference, drill the holes and form ing for square and that the edges are E) where shown on the Carcase
the slots in the top shelf (B) for all flush. Drive the screws to further drawing.

Page 4 of 13
4 Rout a partial round-over on the
top and bottom outside edges of the
base where shown on the Exploded
View drawing and accompanying
Partial Round-Over detail.
5 Drill the holes in the base where
shown on the Parts View drawing.
6 To get the feet (K) for this dresser,
you can either turn your own using
the patterns on page 11, or order
preturned feet from the source listed
in the Buying Guide at the bottom of
the Bill of Materials. If you turn your
own, laminate stock to form blanks
measuring 4" square (3fi" after turn-
ing) by 5" long. Then, refer to the
full-size pattern to turn your own.
Drill a pilot hole centered in the
top of each foot, and add a hanger
bolt. (The preturned feet come with
a hanger bolt already threaded in
place.)
7 Use a hacksaw to trim the protrud-
ing end of each foot hanger bolt so
only 1" protrudes. The top of the
bolt shouldn’t protrude above the
top surface of the base.
8 Insert a ˇ" T-nut into each Œ"
counterbore (four total) in the top
surface of the base.
Cut the horizontal trim pieces (G) to fit snugly between the sides. Then, fit the
vertical trim pieces (F) against the Gs, to keep the inside edges flush. 9 With the T-nuts in place, clamp
the base to the carcase with the back
edges flush and centered from side
3 Keeping the front edges of the front 6 Rout the ¤" and fi" round-overs on to side. Using the previously drilled
trim pieces (C) flush with the front of parts F where shown on the Carcase mounting holes in the base as guides,
the carcase, glue and clamp the trim drawing. Rout the ¤" round-overs drill pilot holes into the bottom of
pieces in place. Add the top and bot- along the bottom edge of the top G, the dresser, and screw the base in
tom pieces next, followed by the back both edges of the middle G, and the place.
trim piece (D). For housing the back top edge of the bottom G. Glue and
(H) later, parts D protrude ‹" beyond clamp the three front trim pieces (G) Now, attach the edge-
the back edge of the sides (A). in place. joined top to the carcase
4 To cap the front of the carcase and 7 Measure the opening, and cut the 1 From 1„" stock (commonly called
hide the plywood plies, cut the front back (H) to size from ‹" plywood. five-quarter stock), rip enough nar-
trim pieces (F) to size. Before cutting rower pieces to form the top (L).
the pieces, measure the width of the Make a sturdy base Your initial lamination should be 1"
carcase sides plus trim (ours mea- for a stout carcase longer and fi" wider than needed.
sured 1¤"), and cut the trim pieces 1 Cut the base front (I) and sides 2 Edge-glue the boards to form the
(F) to match. See the Top Section (J) to the sizes listed in the Bill of top. Later, trim the top to the finished
View on the Parts View on page 7 for Materials. size listed in the Bill of Materials.
reference. With the edges flush, glue 2 To join the base sides (J) to the 3 Mark and cut a 1fi" radius on the
and clamp the pieces in place, or front (I), use a biscuit or spline joint. front corners of the top. Cut and
use the method in the photo above Glue and clamp the sides to the sand the corners to shape. Rout the
to keep the inside edges flush when front, keeping the outside edges and partial round-overs along the front
gluing the trim pieces to the sides. surfaces flush. Check for square. and sides of the top. See the Partial
5 Cut the trim pieces G to fit between 3 Mark and cut a ‡" radius on the Round-Over detail for reference.
the trim pieces F. front corner of the base front (I). 4 Screw the top to the carcase.

Page 5 of 13
CUTTING THE ‹" ‹"
DRAWER JOINTS
‹"
STEP 1 O
M ‹"
Face ‹"
side out
N 17‹"
DRAWER
Fence DETAIL
fi" ‹"
‹"
‹" dado Tablesaw
blade set for ‹"
fi"-deep cut
M ‹"
STEP 2 ‹"
Face side up Auxiliary
Drawer face wood
‹" fence
Build the drawer to complete
Fence the construction
M Note: Measure the drawer openings before constructing the drawer.
fi" The drawer needs to be ¤" less in height and width than the opening.
Also, the front of the drawer should sit ¤" back from the front of the
›" dado blade front trim pieces (G).
set for
Tablesaw fi"-deep cut 1 Cut the drawer front (M) to size from ‡" straight-grained oak. Then,
from fi" stock rip and crosscut the sides (N) and back (O) to the sizes
STEP 3 listed in the Bill of Materials.
Auxiliary 2 Follow Steps 1 and 2 on the four-step drawing at left to machine the
wood fence ends of the drawer front (M).
Inside
Fence 3 Follow Step 3 on the drawing to cut a ‹" rabbet ‹" deep along the
of drawer ‹" ends of the drawer back (O).
4 Refer to Step 4 on the drawing to machine the mating dadoes on the
drawer sides (N)
O 5 Cut the remaining grooves in the drawer front and sides where dimen-
‹"
sioned on the Drawer drawing to house the plywood bottom (P). Make
sure the groove width is the same as the thickness of the plywood you’ll
›" dado be using for the drawer bottom.
Tablesaw blade set for 6 Cut the drawer bottom (P) to size from ‹" plywood.
‹"-deep cut
7 Dry-clamp (no glue) the drawer together to check the fit and check for
square. To assemble the drawer, use white glue because it dries slower,
STEP 4
Fence giving you more working time. Glue the front piece to one side piece.
Outside ‹" Add the drawer back, slide the plywood bottom in place, and then glue
of drawer the other side in place. Clamp the assembly together, taking opposing
diagonal measurements from the corners to check for square.
8 Mark the location, and drill the mounting holes in the drawer front to
N accept your particular hardware.
‹"
9 To create the look of an equal reveal on the top and bottom of the
drawer when slid in place in the cabinet, rout the bottom of the drawer
‹" dado blade Tablesaw front with a 15° chamfer bit. (We used a CMT 857.503.11.) You could
set for also sand or plane the 15° chamfer along the bottom edge. The key is to
‹"-deep cut
keep the chamfered edge straight.
10 Cut the drawer stop (Q) to size, and drill the mounting holes in it.
FILENAME:113NiteSta
Date: 11-30-98
Page 6 of
Lorna J. 13
‹" dado ‹" deep
‹" from back edge
‹" groove ‹" deep
‹" from bottom edge
‹" dado ‹" deep ‹" rabbet
‹" from front edge N O ‹" deep
5¤"
‹" groove ‹" deep
‹" from bottom edge 5¤"
‡"
P
5¤" N

M
17‹"
15° bevel routed,
planned, or sanded
13Œ" along bottom edge fi"
6Í"
2" wooden knob DRAWER

2"
Finishing and final assembly 1"
1 Finish-sand the carcase, drawer, and
top. Finish cabinet as desired. For a
SLOT DETAIL
country finish, see the1"
article on page 12
3/8x 3/16" slot centered over a 3/8 x 3/16" slot
or stain the cabinet and drawer front and
3/4" 1" counterbore 1/4" deep in
protect them with a clear finish as shown top B only
in the upper left-hand corner on page 3. 2"
163/4" B
2 Attach the self-adhesive, 2self-lubricating
3/4"
H
nylon tape (see B 1"
D the Buying Guide for our
source) where shown on the Exploded CARCASE TOP SHELF 3/8"

View drawing. 1" counterbore


1/4" deep
3 Add the knob to the drawer, slide the
A
drawer in place, and screw the stop (Q) 7/64" pilot
hole
in place. Mark the locations, drill the 21/8"
5/8" deep on inside
countersunk pilot holes, and screw the 71/4" face for mounting
back (H) in place.¿ 141/2" drawer stop Q

E 121/2" 1" 1"


The purchase of these3/4plans
" does not transfer any copyright or other
Written by Marlen Kemmet ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to
3/4" rabbet
the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for 1/4"sale
deep nor offer
Project Design: Jeff Hayes L 5/32" shank holes,
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson for sale any copies of the
51/4finished
" project.
P SECTIONPhotographs:
VIEW Hetherington Photography countersunk
Graphic Design: Jamie Downing
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 1999
PARTS VIEW 3/4"

7"
3/4" dado
Q C 197/8" 1/4" deep Page 7 of 13
A
13/4" 123/8" SIDE
G 7⁄8" 1"
F
PARTS VIEW
1"
3/4"

1
23/4"
H
D

E 121/2"

L
TOP SECTION VIEW
PARTS
7"

Q C

3" 13/4"

G 7⁄8" 1"
F
1/8" 1"

11/8"
7/8"
counterbore
1/8"
deep with a 3/8" hole
11/2" centered inside for foot K Page 8 of 13
2" 1"

1"
1/8" 1"

11/8"
7/8"
counterbore
1/8"
deep with a 3/8" hole
11/2" centered inside for foot K
2"

1" 2"

J J 5/32"
shank
143/4" BASE holes,
1" countersunk
31/2" on bottom
Biscuits

31/2" I
2"
R=3/4"
2"
163/4"

FEET LOCATION FOR


TRADITIONAL VERSION
3fi" 3fi"
1" 1"

2‡" 2‡"
J J

2" 2"

PARTS VIEW

Page 9 of 13
B 1"
CARCASE TOP SHELF 3/8"

1" counterbore
1/4" deep

21/8" 7/64" pilot hole


PARTS VIEW
5/8"deep on inside
71/4" face for mounting
141/2" drawer stop Q

1" 1"
3/4"
3/4" rabbet
1/4" deep
5/32"
shank holes,
51/4" countersunk

VIEW 3/4"

3/4" dado
197/8" 1/4" deep
A
123/8" SIDE

3/4" rabbet
1/4" deep
3/4"

163/4"

ˇ-18 x 3" hanger bolt


trimmed so only
1" of thread protrudes

2‡" dia.

Page 10 of 13
2"
1"

33/8" dia. 31/2" dia. SLOT DETAIL


23/4" dia.1"
TEMPLATE
23/4" dia. FULL-SIZE
3/8 x 3/16" slot centered over a
3/8x 3/16" slot
3/4" 1" counterbore /4" deep in
1
top B only 17/8" dia.
23/16" dia. 2"
163/4" B
2" dia.
23/4"
H B 1"
D
CARCASE TOP SHELF 3/8"

1" counterbore
1/4" deep

A
7/64" pilot
hole
21/8"
5/8" deep on inside
1" K 71/4" face for mounting
FOOT
141/2" drawer stop Q
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
E (4 needed) 1"
121/2" 1"
3/4"
5/16-18x 3" hanger bolt 3/4" rabbet
trimmed so only 1" of 1/4" deep
thread protrudes L 5/32"
shank holes,
51/4"
TOP SECTION VIEW countersunk

PARTS VIEW 3/4"

7"
3/4" dado
Q C 197/8" 1/4" deep
A
3" 13/4" 5" 123/8" SIDE
G 7⁄8" 1"
F
3 /4 " rabbet
1/8" 1" 1 /4 " deep
3/4"
11/8"
7/8"
counterbore
1/8"
deep with a 3/8" hole 163/4"
To ensure
11/2full-size
" patterns
centered areforcorrect
inside foot K
size, your printer should be set to print 2" 1" ˇ-18 x 3" hanger bolt
at 100% (not fit to page). Measure trimmed so only
1" of thread protrudes
full-size patterns 1"
to verify size. 2"

2‡" dia.

J fi 1" J 5/32"
shank
143/4"
‹ ‡BASE
holes,
1" countersunk
31/2" on bottom
Biscuits 4Á" dia.
4fl" dia.
4fi" dia.
31/2" I
2" OPTIONAL
R=3/4" 3"
2" TRADITIONAL FOOT
163/4" FULL-SIZE HALF 5" dia.
PATTERN
FEET LOCATION FOR (4 needed)
4fi" dia.
TRADITIONAL VERSION
3fi" 4fl" dia.
3fi"
1" 1" 4Á" dia.

2‡" 2‡" FULL-SIZE


J J
TEMPLATE
2" 2" 2‡" dia.

Page 11 of 13
Craft a Country Finish
A
We’ll show
you how
When the time came to apply an
authentic-looking old-time
country finish to our newly
designed oak bedroom furniture
set, we turned to Robby Pederson
to provide the special touch. Robby
works as the hands-on
demonstrator in the cabinet shop
at Living History Farms in Des
Moines, Iowa. That explains his
1800s attire shown in the photos.
A student of things past, Robby
proved to be the right person to
show us how to create a time-worn
country look using a modern-day
approach.

For a natural “worn” look on our country pieces, Robby rubbed


the edges unevenly from spot to spot with 150-grit sandpaper and
ScotchBrite medium pads.
Start the process by sanding and in small segments, watch closely that scuffed the corners of the cabinet, the
staining the furniture pieces as you you remove the same amount of paint rail edges, and spots where the drawers
would any fine-furniture project. We from each area. rub against the carcase. Don’t overdo
sanded through 220-grit and then Antiques usually show their fair share it. If a surface would have received
applied a light oak stain. For better of wear. But before you rub through little wear over the years, leave it alone.
contrast between the stained areas and any paint, think about where the object To simulate the aged, used look
those you’ll paint later, we applied the would have received the greatest wear, referred to as “patina,” wipe on a coat
stain lightly. and distress only those areas. Sand off of antiquing glaze over the blue paint,
Color the pieces by brushing on a paint at spots likely to have become and immediately wipe away most of it
light to medium blue latex paint. worn, and then blend the surrounding with a lint-free cloth, as shown in Photo
Almost immediately, use a clean cloth areas with a ScotchBrite pad. To do B. Just as you do when staining, wipe
to wipe off enough of the paint so the this, we used 150-grit sandpaper and with the grain. You’ll get better results
stained grain shows through. Paint just ScotchBrite medium pads (green in once the cloth is partially loaded with
one section at a time. If you wait too color). For a natural “worn” look, glaze than when it’s completely clean.
long to start wiping, the paint will dry remember to rub the edges unevenly Leave deposits of glaze in crevices and
and cannot be removed. Because you’ll from spot to spot as shown in Photo other areas that wouldn’t have received
be finishing a large piece of furniture A. For example, on the dresser, we wear or been cleaned over the years.

Page 12 of 13
Add a bit more character by
spattering the surface. To achieve this B
accent (sometimes called
“flyspecking”), pour a small amount
of the black antiquing glaze in a
shallow container. Then, dab an old
toothbrush, or a paintbrush with its
bristles trimmed to fi" long, into the
black glaze. Practice your spattering
technique on a piece of paper before
trying it on your project. Hold the
brush about 6" from the paper, and run
your finger through the bristles to
determine the amount of spattering
produced. Once you have the right
touch, add a uniform spattering of fine
speckles to the piece as shown in
Photo C. Again, don’t overdo it. A
little spattering goes a long way.
Finally, apply a clear, protective
coat to all the pieces (painted and
unpainted). Using a quality finish
brush, we applied satin polyurethane,
rubbing between coats with
ScotchBrite super-fine pads (grey in
color). We repeated the process until
we had applied three coats of the clear To simulate the aged, used look referred to as “patina”, to wipe
finish.¿ on a coat of antiquing glaze over the blue paint, and immediately
wipe away most of it with a lint-free cloth.

Produced by Marlen Kemmet and


Robby Pederson
Graphic Design: Jamie Downing
©COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION 1998

The purchase of these plans does not


transfer any copyright or other ownership
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor
offer for sale any copies of the
To add a uniform spattering of fine speckles, hold the brush about
finished project.
6" from project, and run your finger through the bristles.

Page 13 of 13
WOODStore.net
Browse more than 1,000 woodworking project plans, articles, tool reviews, books, techniques, & more.
Each plan includes step-by-step instructions, professional color photography, and detailed illustrations.

Plans Techniques Articles Publications

WOODWorkersCenter.com
Looking for information from leading woodworking
companies?

WOODWorkersCenter.com is just the site for your


woodworking tool, accessory, and service informational
needs. Use the online info request feature to request
these companies latest catalogs or info.

WOODmagazine.com
The online presence of WOOD magazine,
WOODmagazine.com speaks to online users of all
woodworking skill levels with free woodworking plans,
helpful forums, numerous articles, and numerous
services to help you become a better woodworker.
Visited by over 200,000 woodworkers per month, this
site is geared to provide you with helpful information
and shop-tested advice.