Climbing wall

A climbing wall is an artificially constructed wall with grips for hands and feet, usually used for indoor
climbing, but sometimes located outdoors. Some are brick or wooden constructions, but on most modern walls, the
material most often used is a thick multiplex board with holes drilled into it. Recently, manufactured steel and
aluminum have also been used. The wall may have places to attach belay ropes, but may also be used to practise lead
climbing or bouldering.
Each hole contains a specially formed t-nut to allow modular climbing holds to be screwed onto the wall.
With manufactured steel or aluminum walls, an engineered industrial fastener is used to secure climbing holds. The
face of the multiplex board climbing surface is covered with textured products
including concrete and paint or polyurethane loaded with sand. In addition to the textured surface and hand holds,
the wall may contain surface structures such as indentions (incuts) and protrusions (bulges), or take the form of
an overhang, underhang or crack.
Some grips are formed to mimic the conditions of outdoor rock, including some that are oversized and can
have other grips bolted onto them.
History
The earliest artificial climbing walls were typically small concrete faces with protrusions made of medium-
sized rocks for hand holds. Schurman Rock in Seattle, WA is believed to be the first artificial climbing structure in
the United States, constructed in 1939.
The modern artificial climbing wall began in the UK. The first wall was created in 1964 by Don Robinson,
a lecturer in Physical Education by inserting pieces of rock into a corridor wall. The first commercial wall was built
in Sheffield, traditionally England's centre for climbing due to its proximity to the Peak District] The first indoor
climbing gym in the U.S. was established by Vertical World in Seattle, WA in 1987.
Equipment
Climbing ropes are typically of kernmantle construction, consisting of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres
and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres.
Ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and low elongation ropes
(sometimes called "static" ropes).
Modern webbing or "tape" is made of nylon or Spectra/Dyneema, or a combination of the two. Extending
the distance between protection and a tie-in point.

An anchor around a tree or rock.

An anchor extension or equalization.
Makeshift harnesses.
Carrying equipment (clipped to a sling worn over the shoulder).
Protecting a rope that hangs over a sharp edge (tubular webbing).
Quickdraws (often referred to as "draws") are used by climbers to connect ropes to bolt anchors, or to other
traditional protection, allowing the rope to move through the anchoring system with minimal friction.
Harness is a system used for connecting the rope to the climber.
Belay devices are mechanical friction brake devices used to control a rope when belaying.

Rappel devices (descenders)

Figure eight
Sometimes called "figure of eight" or just "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but
may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment.
Rescue eight
A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking
up" or creating a larks head or girth hitch, thus stranding the rappeller on the rope.
Petzl Pirana
The Petzl Pirana is a slight variation to the traditional Figure 8 rappel device. The Pirana consists of a single
loop of metal with double prongs jutting out of the bottom.
Rappel Rack
This consists of a 'U' shaped frame, attached to the rappeller's harness, into which snap multiple bars that
pivot from the other side of the frame.
Ascenders
Ascenders are mechanical devices for ascending on a rope. They are also called Jumars, after a popular
brand.
Jumars perform the same functionality as friction knots but less effort is needed to use them. A Jumar
employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction but tightly grip the rope when pulled on in
the opposite direction
Another type of ascender allows rope to feed in either direction, slowly, but locks up when pulled quickly.
Such self-locking devices allow people to protect solo climbs because the amount of rope is automatically adjusted.
Sling
A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can
be wrapped around sections of rock, hitched (tied) to other pieces of equipment or even tied directly to a tensioned
line using a prusik knot, for anchor extension (to reduce rope drag and for other purposes), equalisation, or climbing
the rope.
Daisy chain
A daisy chain is a strap, several feet long and typically constructed from one-inch tubular nylon webbing
of the same type used in lengthening straps between anchor-points and the main rope.

Protection devices
Protection devices, collectively known as rock protection or pro, provide the means to place temporary
anchor points on the rock. These devices may be categorized as passive (e.g., nuts) or active (e.g., SLCDs). Passive
protection acts "merely" as a choke when pulled on, and constrictions in the rock prevent it from pulling out.
Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. In their simplest form, they are just a small block of
metal attached to a loop of cord or wire.
Hexes are the oldest form of active protection. They consist of a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with
tapered ends, usually threaded with cord or webbing.
Spring-loaded camming devices These consist of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two
adjacent axles, in such a way that pulling on the shaft connected to the axle forces the cams to spread further apart.
Training equipment
Hangboards
A wooden hangboard designed for increasing contact strength in rock climbers by Concept. Climbing
A wooden or resin board used for improving contact strength for climbers. It develops the forearm muscles
along with the tendons and pulleys of the fingers.
Grip savers
A small device that can help in developing the antagonist muscles to those used while gripping with the
hand. Use of such a device can prevent the ligament injuries that are frequently experienced by climbers
Campus boards
A series of horizontal rungs attached to an overhanging surface that may be climbed up and down without
the aid of the feet. When used properly, campus boards can improve finger strength and so-called "contact strength".
Bachar ladder
A bachar ladder is made by stringing large diameter PVC piping on webbing and is climbed without using
the feet. It can help improve overall upper body strength as well as core strength.
Specialized clothing

Helmet is a piece of safety equipment that primarily protects the skull against falling debris (such as rocks or
dropped pieces of protection) and impact forces during a fall.
Climbing shoes Specifically designed foot wear is usually worn for climbing.

Belay gloves A belay glove is a glove constructed from either leather or a synthetic substitute, is used to protect the
hands when belaying, and is especially useful if using a classic or body belay.

Miscellaneous equipment
Tape Medical tape is useful to both prevent and repair minor injuries. For example, tape is often used to fix flappers.
Haul bag A haul bag refers to a large, tough, and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment
can be thrown.
Gear sling A gear sling is usually used by trad (traditional), or big wall climbers when they have too much gear to
fit onto the gear loops of their harnesses.
Chalk Chalk is used by nearly all climbers to absorb problematic moisture, often sweat, on the hands.

Wall types
The simplest type of wall is of plywood construction, known colloquially in the climbing community as a
'woody', with a combination of either bolt-on holds or screw on holds. Bolt-on holds are fixed to a wall with iron
bolts which are inserted through the hold, which will have specific bolt points, and then fixed into pre-allocated
screw-threaded holes in the wall. Screw-on holds are, by contrast, usually much smaller, owing to the nature of their
fixing. These holds are connected to the wall by screws which may be fastened anywhere on the wall's surface.
Some other types of walls include slabs of granite, concrete sprayed onto a wire mesh, pre-made fiberglass
panels, large trees, manufactured steel and aluminum panels, textured fiberglass walls and inflatables.
Routes and grading
 Holds come in different colours, those of the same colour often being used to denote a route, allowing
routes of different difficulty levels to be overlaid on one another.
Grade (difficulty) of the route is usually a consensus decision between the setter of the route and the first
few people who climb the route.
Many indoor climbing walls have people who are assigned to set these different climbing routes. These
people are called route setters or course setters.
As indoor climbing walls are often used to check the development of climber's ability, climbs are color-
coded.
Forms of Climbing

Rock climbing style refers to the method and equipment used to establish and repeat rock climbing routes.
Categories
The term "style" is used by climbers to describe more than one set of distinctions. Ethics, class, techniques, and
goals all can be talked about in terms of "style", and both the usage of the term "style" and the usage of stylistic
terms themselves can vary quite greatly by geography.

Certain styles are regarded as a matter of climbing ethics, which might be matters of conservation,
sportsmanship, personal satisfaction, or competition:
Clean climbing contrasts against those styles which can have environmental effects ("leave no trace").
Bottom-up and on-sight ascents are regarded as "better style" than the exploration and rehearsal of a route
on fixed ropes before actual climbing of the route is attempted or succeeded.
"To send" or ascend flawlessly is regarded as "better style" than to hang-dog, yo-yo or work a route until
one gets up.
There are 2 major divisions in climbing style, by class:
free climbing
aid climbing

There are a variety of techniques which are often discussed in the context of style:
Sieging ("expedition"-style), versus Alpine-style ("fast and light")
Climbing strictly "on", versus taking liberties with a route's accepted path
To "free" a previous aid-only route, or to climb clean a previous hammered route, thus advancing the state
of the art
To employ equipment in novel ways, or to develop new equipment and associated techniques, thus
advancing the state of the art
Handicapping, by deliberately choosing to adhere to some restriction on techniques, equipment, holds or
some other element of climbing a particular route
Climbers with different goals may describe their preferences and choices in terms of style:
Traditional climbing can be "adventure"-style climbing.
Sport climbing can be "athletic"-style climbing.
Bouldering is largely equipment-free.
Soloing or free-soloing stimulate one's sense of self-reliance.
Top roping can allow one to focus on climbing rather than equipment-handling, or vice versa.
The choice of Leading or following or swapping leads can align one's sense of self-confidence with the
route being climbed, can support a climber's progress in developing skills, and can impact the efficiency
and speed with which long routes are ascended.
 First ascents are sought by those who wish to explore or create a legacy.
Types of free climbing

Bouldering may be described as climbing short, severe routes on boulders or small outcrops.
Free solo climbing: Usually describes free climbing without a rope or other protective gear. Free solo climbing
is distinguished from solo climbing where a climber progressing alone uses a rope and protection devices
including a self belay system.
Traditional climbing, or "trad" climbing, in which the leader uses mostly removable gear (and the occasional
bolt placed on lead) to protect against falls.
Simul climbing is a style where climbers "move together", a risky but speedy technique.
Sport climbing is a type of freeclimbing which involves the use of pre-placed permanent bolts for protection.
This frees the leader from the need to carry and place traditional gear.
Top roping involves suspending a rope from an anchor located at the top of a short climb.
Aid Climbing
Aid climbing involves using artificial devices placed in the rock to support all or part of the climber's body
weight, and is normally practiced on rock formations that lack the necessary natural features suitable for
free climbing.
Types of Carabiner
Carabiner (/krbinr/) or karabiner is a specialized type of shackle, a metal loop with a spring-loaded
gate used to quickly and reversibly connect components, most notably in safety-critical systems. The word is a
shortened form of Karabinerhaken, a German phrase for a "spring hook"used by a carbine rifleman, or carabinier,
to attach items to a belt or bandolier.
The carabiner has been improved several times over the decades, making it more lightweight, reliable and
durable
Physical properties
Shape
Carabiners come in four characteristic shapes:
Oval: Symmetric. Most basic and utilitarian. Smooth regular curves are gentle on equipment and allow easy
repositioning of loads. Their greatest disadvantage is that a load is shared equally on both the strong solid spine and
the weaker gated axis.
D: Asymmetric shape transfers the majority of the load onto the spine, the carabiner's strongest axis.
Offset-D: Variant of a D with a greater asymmetry, allowing for a wider gate opening.
Pear/HMS: Specialized oversized offset-D's used in belaying. These are usually the heaviest carabiners.

Locking mechanisms
There are three broad categories of carabiner: auto locking, manual locking, and non-locking.

Non-locking
Non-locking carabiners (or snap-links)[5] have a sprung swinging gate that accepts a rope, webbing sling, or other
hardware. Rock climbers frequently connect two non-locking carabiners with a short length of nylon web to create
a quickdraw.
Three gate types are common:
Straight gate: The most utilitarian, and hence most popular.
Wire gate: The lightest type, with a strength roughly equal to the others, allowing more to be carried for a given
weight. Wire gates are less prone to icing up than solid gates, an advantage in Alpine mountaineering and ice
climbing. The reduced gate mass makes their wire bales less prone to 'gate flutter,' a dangerous condition created
by irregular impact forces generated by the climbing rope or contact with hard surfaces in a fall which momentarily
opens the gate (and both lowers the breaking strength of the carabiner when open and potentially allows the rope to
escape).

Locking
Life supporting carabiners such as those used in tree climbing need to be strong (thus strength ratings), but also
secure against unintentional opening under use. All carabiners with a spring loaded gate "are self closing" (single
action). Several are also "self locking" (double action), some even "self double locking" (triple action).
Locking carabiners have the same general shape as non-locking carabiners but have an additional mechanism
securing the gate. These mechanisms may be either threaded sleeves ("screw-lock"), spring-loaded sleeves ("twist-
lock"), magnetic levers ("Magnetron"), other spring loaded unlocking levers or double-gates ("Twin-Gate"),.

Carabiner with multiple protection

Screw-lock: Have a threaded sleeve over the gate which must be engaged and disengaged manually.
Twist-lock, push-lock, twist-and-push-lock: Have a security sleeve over the gate which must be manually rotated
and/or pulled to disengage, but which springs automatically to locked position upon release
Multiple-levers: Having at least two spring loaded levers that are each operated with one hand action to unlock the
next ones movement, the last (third or later) action opening the gate.
Magnetic: Have two small levers with embedded magnets on either side of the locking gate which must be pushed
or pinched simultaneously to disengage.
Double-Gate: Have two opposed overlapping gates at the opening which prevent a rope or anchor from
inadvertently passing through the gate in either direction.

Terminologies
A

Abseil(pronounced AB-sail) To make a controlled descent on a fixed rope. The term is typically used in Europe
and Australia. See rappel.

Accessory cordNylon, Kevlar or Spectra cord sold in a range of diameters, typically smaller than those of
climbing ropes. Used for a variety of things including slings, anchors, prusiks, and emergency tie-offs. Accessory
cord is static, or very low stretch.

ACD (Active Camming Device)Protection device that secures in rock cracks or pockets by means of spring-
loaded cams. See SLCD.

Active protectionAny piece of climbing protection that has moving parts, typically with springs. Examples
include spring-loaded camming devices, sliding wedges and tube chocks.

Aid climbingA type of climbing that makes use of rope, fixed bolts, pitons or foot slings, rather than features on
the rock itself, to ascend the face. Opposite of free climbing.
AnchorA point of attachment for a climbing rope, usually made with slings, runners or the rope itself. May be
top-rope anchors, belay anchors or a protection piece mid-climb.

ANSI (American National Standards Institute)Establishes and enforces industrial standards in the United
States. See CEN.

ApproachThe route or walk in to the base of a climb.

AscenderAny mechanical device that slides upward when put on a fixed rope but catches when weight is put on
it, allowing a climber to use the rope to move upward or to haul gear. Used in aid climbing, mountaineering rescue
and caving.

ASTM (American Standards for Testing and Materials)Establishes materials specifications and testing
standards in the United States.

Auto-lockSpring-loaded, twisting mechanism on a carabiner gate that locks by itself when the gate is closed.

BackupAny additional protection that is added to provide redundancy to an anchor.

Barn doorTo swing sideways out from the rock due to being off balance. Often occurs with a lie-back maneuver.

BashiesMalleable anchors that are literally bashed into small cracks for use in aid climbing. Tough to remove.

BelayTo keep a climber from falling too far by using friction on the rope. The system that stops a climber's fall.
It includes the rope, anchors, belay device and the belayer.

BelayerThe person who manages the rope so as to catch the climber on the other end in case of a fall or a slip.

Bent-gate carabinerSport-climbing carabiner used on the rope-clipping end of a quickdraw. The bent gate
provides a larger opening than straight-gate carabiners provide for clipping in the rope.

BetaInformation about a climb. "Running beta" is information given while the climb is being executed.

BightA bend in a rope or a folded section of rope.

Big wallExtended, multi-pitch rock climb that often takes several days to complete.

BinerShort for "carabiner".

BiomechanicsThe study of the mechanics of muscular activity.

BivouacA usually temporary encampment under little or no shelter. In terms of climbing, an overnight stay on a
wall during a multi-day climb, or sleeping without a tent in a bivy sack during a climb.

BivyShort for bivouac.

Board-lastedShoe construction in which the upper is attached to a stiff insole (also called the board
Body belayBelay technique using friction of the rope passing around the belayer's body to slow and hold a fall.
It is often painful for the belayer and not effective in every situation, but can be used in emergency situations if no
belay device is available.

Bolted routeA route protected with pre-placed bolt anchors rather than removable protection pieces. A sport
route.

BoltsMetal expansion bolts drilled into the rock for use as protection on sport or aid climbs. Hangers are attached
to the bolts for clipping in your rope.

BombproofA hold or anchor that is thought to offer the utmost security; for example, a top-rope anchor around
a large, stable tree trunk or immovable boulder.

BottleneckA crack with converging sides. Good for placing tapers or other passive protection.

BoulderingClimbing close to the ground without the use of a rope. Typically used for practicing traverses, weight
transfers, and foot and hand placements. Can be done on boulders or at the base of a rock face.

Bowline(pronounced BO-lin) A knot frequently used for tying the middle climber onto a glacier rope team,
among other uses.

CamalotSpring-loaded camming device made by Black Diamond. See SLCD.

CammingThe act of rotating into place until wedged or tight.

Camming deviceA piece of climbing protection that wedges into a crack or pocket by rotating. Can be a passive
cam or a spring-loaded device with two or more camming pieces on a stem.

Cambered soleA curved or arched sole with a down-turned toe. Found on rock climbing shoes for more advanced
climbers. Focuses foot position over the toes for more precise placements.

CarabinerMetal loop (usually aluminum) with a spring-loaded gate on one side used for connecting various
parts of a climbing system. May be oval, pear- or D-shaped. Also "karabiner", " 'biner" or "krab".

CavingThe sport of cave exploration using many of the same techniques and gear as climbing.

CEN (European Committee for Standardization)Establishes the minimum safety requirements for climbing
gear. The organization's stamp ("CE") must appear on all climbing gear sold in Europe. See ANSI.

ChalkCarbonate of magnesium, or gymnasts' chalk, used to keep a climber's hands dry for better grip.

Chalk bagSmall pouch, usually with a drawstring closure, worn on the harness to hold climbers' chalk.

Chest harnessA harness used in conjunction with a seat harness to keep the body upright in case of a free fall
(into a crevasse, for instance). Also supports the body when rappelling with a heavy pack.

ChimneyWide, vertical crack large enough for a climber to fit inside and climb. A move done inside the chimney
by using opposing force with the feet and the body.
ChockUniversal term applied to passive protection piece wedged into cracks for use as a rope anchor during a
climb.

Chock pickSee nut tool.

ChockstoneRock or stone tightly wedged in a crack. Originally used for climbing protection by girth-hitching a
runner around it and clipping the rope in. Precursors to metal chocks.

CleanA route that is free of vegetation and loose rock. Also, to remove protection as you second, or follow, a
lead climber.

ClimberAnyone who participates in the sport of climbing. Also refers to the person moving (as opposed to the
belayer).

ClimbingMovement upward on rock, snow, ice, or a mixture thereof.

Clove hitchA knot used for tying the climbing rope to an anchor, as when setting up to belay the next climber.

CordageStatic cord used for different climbing applications. See Accessory cord.

CordeletteA long (typically 16-foot) section of 6mm Spectra cord tied into a multi-purpose anchor sling. The
cordelette is useful for making three-point, equalized anchors.

CoreThe center fibers of a climbing rope. See sheath.

CrabSlang for a carabiner.

CrackA fissure in a rock wall, typically used for hand- and footholds while climbing. Can be paper-thin to larger
than body size.

CragA small cliff, or the term for a climbing area.

CruxThe toughest move or sequence of moves on a climb.

Daisy chainRunner with multiple loops for use as an adjustable anchor. Often used by aid climbers.

DihedralTwo planes (of a rock face) that intersect. An inside corner in which a climber can use counter-pressure
on each side to climb it. Also referred to as an "open book".

Double runnerA 9.5-foot length of tubular webbing tied into a loop with a water knot used for attaching pro to
the climbing rope or creating anchors.

DragFriction created when a climbing rope passes through multiple pieces of protection, especially if they are
not in a straight line up the route. Can pull a lead climber off balance.

Dry-treatedRopes that have been coated with or immersed in a water-repellent chemical. Helps maintain the life
of the rope by keeping it clean and resisting abrasion. Keeps ropes from becoming heavy and unmanageable when
used on ice and snow.
DuodessTrade name for different colors and patterns on each half of a climbing rope. Used for locating the center
quickly. Also called "bicolor".

DynamicClimbing rope that elongates or stretches to absorb the impact of a fall. Opposite of static. Also, a
climbing move in which the climber lunges or leaps to the next hold. Also called a "dyno move".

E-L
E

EdgingStanding on small ledges or crystals with the edges of climbing shoes rather than the soles.

EN (European Norm)Designation given to products that meet CEN standards.

FaceThe relatively smooth portion of a cliff. A face climb typically requires friction and various handholds,
whereas a crack climb uses more counter-force and jamming techniques.

Figure 8Climbing knot woven in the shape of the number 8, typically used for tying the climbing rope to the
climber's harness. Also, the name of a belay/rappel device with the same shape.

Fisherman's knotKnot used for attaching 2 ends of accessory cord or rope together. Can be double or triple
(have 2 or 3 wraps), depending on the type of material used.

FlaredDescribes a crack with nonparallel sides that diverge upward or inward.

FlashA red point ascent (first try on lead) utilizing prior inspection, information or beta from others.

FollowTo be the second up a climb. In traditional climbing, to remove and collect the protection that the lead
climber has placed. See second.

Free climbTo climb using only hands and feet on the rock. Rope is used only for safety and is not relied upon
for upward progress. Opposite of an aid climb.

Free rappelA controlled descent on a rope in which the climber is not in contact with the rock. A free-hanging
descent. See rappel.

Free soloClimbing without a belay, which is usually very high risk. Unlike bouldering, free soloing goes far
above the ground on full-length routes.

FrictionA style of climbing that involves few positive holds and relies on balance, footwork and weight over the
feet for grip on the rock face. Friction of climbing shoes is also used.

FriendThe first successful spring-loaded camming device, made by Wild Country. Also the generic term used
for spring-loaded camming devices. See SLCD.

GateSpring-loaded opening on a carabiner. Can be straight or bent, locking or nonlocking.

Gemini2 cordBlack Diamond's brand of Technora aramid fiber cord with characteristics similar to Kevlar
but with different physical properties.

Girth hitchA simple knot made with a runner or sling by wrapping it around a fixed object and looping it through
itself.

GrigriThe first popular belay device with an auto-locking mechanism to catch a climber's fall. Made by Petzl.

GrippedTo be paralyzed by fear or confusion.

GymIndoor climbing facility. Inhabited by gym rats, or climbers who spend all their time on artificial walls.

Half ropeRope of a small enough diameter that it must be used in pairs, each one being clipped into alternate
pieces of protection, 8.2 to 9mm in diameter. See single rope and twin rope.

Hang dogTo rest on the rope as you lead climb, putting weight on the protection rather than the rock.

Hanging belayTo belay facing the wall while suspended by your harness to anchors. Hanging belays are done
when there is no suitable ledge or foothold available. Most often done on difficult, multi-pitch climbs.

HarnessA webbing belt and leg-loop system that attaches a climber to a rope.

HexentricBlack Diamond's name for 6-sided passive protection that either wedges or rotates into place in a crack.
Original "hexes" are threaded onto 5.5mm cord. New hexes come with wires.

JamTo wedge a body part into a crack on a rock climb in order to put weight on it and move upward. Includes
fingers, hands and feet.

JugLarge, easily gripped hold. Also, to climb up a fixed rope using an ascender.

JumarThe original mechanical ascender, often applied to all brands of ascenders. Also the term for using an
ascender.

KernmantleNylon climbing rope construction consisting of a core (kern) covered by a braided outer sheath
(mantle).

KevlarStrong, light fiber made by DuPont used in bulletproof vests. Used in climbing cord for its high tensile
strength and resistance to cutting.

Kilonewton (kN)A measure of force equal to 224.8 lbs. A "newton" equals the force required to make a 1
kilogram mass accelerate at a rate of 1 meter per second per second. Climbing gear is rated in kN to show how
much falling force it can hold.

L
LastThe 3-dimensional form on which a shoe is constructed.

LeadTo be the first person on a climb, either clipping the rope into bolts or placing protection as you go. Belayed
by the second, below you.

Leg loopsThe part of a climbing harness that goes around the upper legs of the climber and provides support.

Lie-backClimbing technique that uses counter-pressure of hands pulling and feet pushing, typically to climb an
offset crack or a flake.

LowerThe way in which a belayer brings a climber down from a climb (as in after a fall or repeated attempts) by
slowly letting rope out through the belay device.

M-S
M

MantelA climbing move in which downward pressure is applied with the hands to a ledge, lifting the body high
enough to get the feet on that same ledge. Usually used when no handholds are available.

Multi-pitchA climb longer than one rope length. See pitch.

Munter hitchA friction knot, typically tied to a large carabiner, which can be used to belay a climber. Good to
know in case you lose your belay device.

NFPA (National Fire Protection Association)Sets standards for rescue equipment, including static ropes.

NutPassive protection piece consisting of a wedge-shaped piece of metal affixed to a wire. Originally modeled
after railway nuts. See chock.

Nut toolA small, hooked pick used to remove protection when seconding (following) up a climb. Used on passive
and active protection pieces. Also called a chock pick.

Off-widthA crack that is wider than a hand or foot but too narrow for a climber to chimney (fit the whole body)
in. Generally 4-10 inches.

On sightTo lead a climb on the first attempt without prior knowledge of the route or moves. Applies to difficult
climbs.

On-sight difficultyThe test, in a competition, of how far a climber can progress on a wall with no prior knowledge
of the climb.

OSHA (Occupational Safety & Health Administration)US government agency that sets and enforces safety
standards in the workplace.

Passive protectionAny piece of climbing protection that does not have moving parts.
PCD (passive camming device)A piece of protection without moving parts, such as a hex or a nut. Opposite
of ACD.

PerlonEuropean term for nylon. Often used as a term for nylon accessory cord, as in 6mm perlon.

PitchThe length of a climb that can be protected by 1 rope length. A pitch is led by the lead climber and cleaned
by the second (or follower). See multi-pitch.

PitonA thin, wedge like piece of metal that is pounded into a rock face and then clipped to the climbing rope for
protection. The original means of protecting climbs, now out of favor because of the damage it does to the rock.

PlacementAn opening in the rock in which a piece of protection fits. Also the act of inserting a piece of
protection.

ProtectionAny device used to secure a climbing rope to rock, snow or ice to prevent a climber from falling any
significant distance.

PrusikThe sliding friction knot developed by Karl Prusik. Made by wrapping a loop of small-diameter cord
around a larger-diameter rope.

PumpedTo be weakened or in pain (usually in the forearms) from a strenuous move or climb.

QuickdrawA short runner used to attach a rope to a bolted anchor with carabiners.

Quickdraw setA quickdraw sold with carabiners attached.

RackThe selection of gear used for a climb. Also refers to a sling full of this gear.

RandA rubber strip running around the edge of a shoe where the upper meets the sole. On climbing shoes, the
portion that does much of the gripping on the toes and heels.

RappelTo descend a cliff or other height by lowering oneself on a fixed rope, with feet against the wall. Friction
is placed on the rope, usually with a belay device, to keep the descent slow and controlled. See free rappel.

RatingsNumerical (and sometimes letter) value given to a rock climb to reflect its relative difficulty.

Red pointTo lead a climb without falling or putting weight on the rope, regardless of number of attempts. Applies
to difficult climbs.

RedundantHaving more than one anchor. To have backup anchors, in case one or more anchors fail.

RetireTo stop using a piece of climbing gear (for climbing) due to age or damage.

Ring bendA knot used to tie nylon webbing. More commonly called a "water knot".

RouteThe path or moves up a specific climb.

RunnerLoop of nylon webbing used to attach the climbing rope to protection or to make anchors. Can be tied
(homemade) or sewn (bar-tacked commercially).

RunoutThe distance between a climber and his or her last piece of protection. A long runout equates to a long
fall. In alpine climbing, it's the area below a climbing route onto which a climber would land if he or she were to
fall.

ScreamerA long fall on a rope, frequently with screaming. Also the model name of an energy-absorbing runner
made by Yates.

ScrewlockThreaded collar that locks a carabiner gate when it is screwed down.

SecondTo follow or be the second climber on a rope team.

Semi-flexedThe sole configuration on some climbing shoes that mimics the natural flex of the foot.

Sewing-machine legUncontrollable shaking of the lower leg(s) caused by fatigue and/or fear while climbing.
Resembles the up-and-down movement of sewing-machine parts.

SheathThe woven outer cover on a climbing rope or accessory cordage.

Single ropeA rope whose diameter is large enough to support a leader fall when used singly. Typical diameter is
9.8mm-11mm. See half rope and twin rope.

Single runnerA 5.5-foot length of webbing tied into a loop with a water knot, used for attaching pro to the
climbing rope or for creating anchors.

SLCD (Spring-loaded camming device)A piece of active climbing protection composed of a number of cams
on a stem with a trigger bar.

Slingshot randInternationally patented by La Sportiva, this one-piece rubber rand wraps around the entire foot,
preventing stretch and driving the foot forward for a powerful forefoot fit.

Slip-lastedThe method of footwear construction in which the upper is sewn into a sock and then slipped onto the
last. Slip-lasted shoes normally do not have an insole and get their "stiffness" from the midsole, which is located
just above the outsole.

SlipperA snug-fitting sport climbing shoe that is slipped on rather than laced. Popular for gym climbing and
bouldering.

SmearClimbing technique in which the sole of the shoe, plus proper weight over the feet, provides traction for
moving upward.

SnaplinkName for carabiner, popular in the military.

SoloTo climb alone without protection.

SpecMeeting specifications.
SpectraA molecular-weight polyethylene developed by Allied-Signal. The strongest fiber ever produced, it is
10 times stronger than steel by weight and twice as strong as Kevlar.

Speed climbingA competition that tests how far a climber can progress in a given time or how long it takes to
complete a given climb.

Sport climbingRock climbing using pre-placed protection such as bolts or a top rope. Frequently involves
difficult, gymnastic moves. Opposite of traditional climbing.

SRENEAcronym for Solid, Redundant, Equalized and No Extension, which refers to the qualities of a good
climbing anchor.

StaticLimited movement or stretch, when referring to a climbing rope. Static ropes are used for rescue, caving
and rappelling, but do not stretch enough to absorb the impact of a leader fall when climbing. Opposite of dynamic.

StemmingTechnique in which the hands and/or feet are pressed in opposition far out to each side, as in a dihedral
or wide chimney.

Sticht plateOriginal friction device for belaying developed by Franz Sticht. Consists of a plate with 2 holes and
sometimes a spring on the bottom. A bight of rope is passed through one of the holes and locked to the belayer's
harness.

StopperSee taper, nut or chock.

SwamiTraditional climbing harness made by wrapping webbing around the waist. Also refers to the waist-belt
portion of a climbing harness, sometimes sold separately from the leg loops for a custom fit.

T-Z
T

TaperPassive protection with one end wider than the other, so that it wedges into cracks. See chocks, nuts.

TCU (three-cam unit)Spring-loaded camming device by Metolius with 3 moving cams. See SLCD.

TDR (thermodynamic rubber)A synthetic rubber commonly used to create sticky soles on climbing shoes.

Three-point suspensionThe principle of moving only one hand or foot at a time, leaving the other three on the
rock for balance, as in a tripod.

Three-sigma rating systemA method of statistical quality control (SQC) used to describe, analyze and control
the rated strengths of climbing gear.

Toe displacementThe degree to which a climbing shoe curves the foot toward the inside edge, determined by
the shoe's sole shape.

Top ropeA rope that is passed through a fixed anchor at the top of a climbing wall or cliff, with each end tied to
the climber and the belayer at the bottom

Traditional or "trad"Rock climbing using protection placed by the lead climber and removed by the second,
as opposed to sport climbing, in which protection (bolts) is pre-placed. See sport climbing.
Triple runnerA 14-foot length of webbing tied into a loop with a water knot, used for attaching pro to the
climbing rope, but more often for creating anchors. Usually must be wrapped three times to be carried over one
shoulder of the climber.

Tube chockCylindrical, spring-loaded protection. Made of telescoping aluminum tubes that expand and wedge
in place. Typically used in very wide, vertical cracks and in holes where other protection will not fit.

Twin ropeClimbing rope designed to be used in pairs with both strands running parallel through the same
protection. Thinner in diameter than single rope. See half rope and single rope.

UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme)International climbing association founded in 1928
to ensure the safety of climbing equipment and to oversee the sport of climbing.

UnderclingA climbing move in which counter-pressure is applied to the underside of a rock flake or slab by
pulling up on it, while pushing down on the feet.

Water knotKnot used to tie two ends of flat webbing together. Also known as a "ring bend".

WebbingWoven nylon tape used for making slings and runners for climbing.

WedgeA tapered protection piece that is wedged into place in a crack. See taper.

WhipperA long fall.

WireMetal cable at the end of a nut or chock that allows a carabiner to be attached.

ZipperA series of protection placements that pop out in sequence when the leader falls. Often coincides with a
screamer.