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To study the effect of yarn twist on the geometrical parameters of yarn in a plain woven fabric such as its cross-sectional
shape, the samples with various twist levels of warp and weft yarns have been woven and the yarn cross-section parameters
are measured using their images obtained by Projectina microscope. The image processing analyses show that the shape of
yarn cross-section in the fabric is affected by the twist level. The statistical analysis shows that the increase in yarn twist
factor (tex) from 0 to 4600 changes the yarn cross-section shape into a lens shape and then elliptical shape and finally
circular-like shape. The major diameter of the elliptical shape of the yarn cross-section decreases as the yarn twist increases,
while the minor diameter of the elliptical shape of yarn cross- section increases as the yarn twist increases. The results also
show that the twist of one group of yarns (warp) affects the cross-sectional shape of other group of yarns (weft). The
ellipticity ratio of the yarns (minor diameter divided by major diameter) increases from 0.35 to 0.86 as the yarn twist factor
increases from 0 to 4600.
Keywords: Ellipticity ratio, Fabric structure, Plain fabric, Twist level, Weaving, Yarn cross-section
cross-section was introduced in their study. Jiang and In this research, filament yarn is used to expand the
Chen7 also emphasized the gap in the definition of yarn twist range, and the effect of twist of both group
yarn cross-section shape to create more realistic and of yarns (weft and warp) on their cross-sectional
flexible geometric fabric models. They introduced geometry in the woven fabric has been studied. The
irregular cross-sections of yarns created with interactional effect of twist levels of two groups of
variability in both shape and size along the yarn path. yarn on the yarn geometry is also investigated.
In all various studies1-11, researchers assume a
constant uniform yarn configuration throughout the 2 Materials and Methods
whole fabric. The common aspect in prior researches 2.1 Yarn and Fabric Production
is that the theoretical configuration of one unit cell is The polyester filament yarns of 300 denier/96 mono
extended to the whole fabric, giving the image of a filament/flat were used to twist at various twist levels
woven fabric that is composed of thousands of and then to weave into a plain fabric of 25 ends/cm
uniform cells8. and 23 picks/cm. The polyester filaments were dull
Gong and Ozgen11 found that an ellipse model of with a solid circular cross-section. For a given yarn
yarn cross-section in plain woven fabric is a suitable count, the spinning twist is the most important factor
approach to generate realistic 3D yarn images. They influencing yarn thickness and compressibility under
found that the attention on variable cross-sectional the various extensional and compression forces in the
shape of the yarn along the yarn path gives a more fabric. To study the geometry of the yarns in the
realistic representation of yarn appearance in the fabric and its variation affected by the twist, the
woven fabric. polyester multi-filaments were twisted at different
Alamdar-yazdi and Heppler11 studied the twist factors (tex) of 1150, 2300, 3450 and 4600 and
cross-sectional shapes of the yarn in cotton gray then used in warp and weft of the fabric samples. The
woven fabric in weaving process and in relaxed polyester yarns of 1150, 2300, 3450 and 4600 tex
fabric. They found that the cross-sectional shapes of twist factors were used in warp while yarns of
the yarns at the early stage of weaving are circular, 0, 1150, 2300, 3450 and 4600 tex twist factors were
elliptical, or a combination of two circles or an used in the weft of the fabric. These levels of twist
asymmetric elliptical. The deformation of yarn were chosen, since they gave considerably different
cross-section at the contact point in the fabric is yarn compactness to the produced yarn sample.
highly dependent upon the yarn twist and the surface The yarns were twisted on a two-for-one (RAPPI)
contour of the crossing yarn. In this research, the yarn twisting system. In order to achieve more suitable
twist range was limited because the fabric samples packages that contained enough stability of yarn to
were made of staple cotton yarn. use in weaving, yarns were heat set on special
The geometry of any textile fabric can be steaming fixation machine (OBEM). After the yarn
represented in a generic way by specifying yarn winding process, the cones were conditioned at 20C
path and yarn cross-sections independently. and 75% humidity for 4 h. They were then left in the
Characterisation of fabric geometry is difficult due to conditioning box for 24 h. This was followed by
the large variability observed in measurement of weaving. For this purpose, the CCI sample sizing and
fabric parameters. However, by given accurate input weaving machine was used, although the yarns were
measurements, an accurate geometric model of the not sized during this process. The fabrics were then
fabric can be created.. A number of assumptions about woven on a CCI weaving machine with eight heald
the path and shape of the cross-sections were made frames. Finally, twenty plain fabrics of different
for 2D woven fabrics in general and validated against yarn twist levels were woven on the CCI sample
four different fabrics. TexEng Software Ltd have sizing and weaving machine with a weft insertion
developed two products named TechText CAD and speed of 45 picks/min.
Weave Engineer12. TechText CAD is software aimed 2.2 Measuring the Yarn Cross- section Shape
at transferring academic work on the structural In this study, the fabrics woven by the yarns of
mechanics of textiles into a CAD package that is easy various twist levels were examined. In sample
to use and directed at industrial needs. In TexGen, the selection, it should be noted that the areas of fabric
algorithms were implemented to create 2D woven near the selvage do not have a good sample
fabric geometric models using these assumptions with qualification condition and hence the samples should
minimal input data. not be selected from these areas.
128 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., JUNE 2013
Acknowledgement
The authors wish to thank Yazdbaf Textile Co. for
their help and efforts in weaving fabric samples.
References
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