Sumo Robot PCB Assembly

Camosun College Electronics Department
Sumo Robot PCB Assembly Instructions
You will be provided with a printed circuit board, a parts layout diagram, and all components
needed to construct a Sumo Robot.
Hints for soldering:

1. Check the orientation for each component before feeding its leads through the
holes in the circuit board.
2. Push the component snugly towards the board.
3. Where possible, bend the leads slightly outwards below the board to keep the
component in place during soldering.
4. Use a third hand to position the circuit board conveniently.
5. Heat the lead of the component, and not the solder, with your soldering iron.
6. After soldering, clip leads close to the board.
Resistor R1 R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9
Value 1 k 10 k 220 220 10 k 220 10 k 220 47
Resistor R10 R11 R12 R13 R14 R15 R16 R17

Value 47 2 k 120 120 10 10 10 k 470
Value Colour Code

First Band Second Band Third Band
10 brown black black
47 yellow purple black
120 brown red brown
220 red red brown
470 yellow purple brown
1 k brown black red
2 k red black red
10 k brown black orange
Resistor colour codes are as follows:

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
black brown red orange yellow green blue purple gray white
The first two bands times ten to the power of the third band gives the resistor value. For
example yellow purple brown would give 47 x 101 = 470 .
Friday, April 23, 2004 - Sumo Robot PCB Instructions 23 April v4.doc Page 1 of 15
1. Consult the parts layout diagram in Appendix A. Orient your printed circuit board so
you are looking at the silk-screened top, and so the front edge is closest to you.
2. Solder resistors R1 through R17 in place. Safety glasses should be worn at all
times. Remember that the leads should be bent slightly to ensure that the component stays
in place while soldering.
3. Solder the 0.1 F capacitors, 100 pF capacitors, and the 15 pF capacitors in

place. Note that polarity (orientation) is not important for these capacitors.
Capacitor Value Marking

C4 0.1 F 104
C5 100 pF 101
C8 15 pF 15J
C9 15 pF 15J
C10 15 pF 15J
C11 15 pF 15J
C12 0.1 F 104
4. Solder sockets U2, U3 and U4 in place. Be certain to match the notches on the
sockets and the circuit board. This will also ensure that pin 1 of each socket lines up with
the squares. It is best to solder the 4 corner pins only and check that the IC holder has
not shifted. Solder the remaining pins in a random pattern so no two adjacent pins are
heated at the same time. This will prevent overheating and possible damage to the socket.
5. Place a small square of double sided sticky tape above the Y1 crystal outline. Insert
the crystal (oblong silver case) leads into the Y1 footprint on the circuit board. Bend the
crystal over, so that it sticks to the tape. Solder the crystal Y1 in place.
6. Solder transistor Q1 into position. Orient the transistor so it matches the shape on
the circuit board.
7. Solder potentiometers VR1 (10k), VR2 (10k), and VR3 (500) into position. Be
careful to match pin positions to those shown on the circuit board.
8. Switch S1 only fits into the board one way. You may need to straighten the leads
slightly. Solder the switch into place.
9. The infrared LEDs DS3 and DS4 are clear with a green tinge. The legs of these
devices must be bent at a 90 angle. Note that in the picture below these LEDs already have
black heat shrink on them. The cathode, or flat side of the LEDs must be oriented to the
left hand side when looking at the front of the potentiometers as shown below. The
cathode lead goes into the square pad. Position them on the board so they face towards the
front at a small angle. If in doubt please ask your instructor.
10. Solder the red LEDs DS1 and DS2 into place. Match the cathode, or flat sides, of
the LEDs to the shapes shown on the circuit board. Ensure they are kept flush with the
surface by bending the leads under the PCB.
11. Place the shorter, straight pins of jumper JP2 through the PCB. Solder jumper JP2
in place. Try to keep it flush with the top of the board.
12. The larger capacitors listed below may now be soldered into place. Be very careful
to ensure that each capacitor is placed into the circuit according to the polarity given on
the parts layout diagram. The + on the capacitor must match the + on the diagram, or the
circuit will not operate correctly. Alternatively, the capacitor might have a large band with a
big minus sign. This side is inserted in away from the positive sign on the board. Note the
picture below shows C2 and C3 are 100 F. These have been upgraded to 220 F.
Capacitor Value
C7 47 F
C6 47 F
C3 220 F
C2 220 F
C1 470 F
13. Solder the black 1 mH inductor L1 into position. It has the number 102 printed on
the side. Polarity is not important.
14. Regulator U1 should be soldered so that pin 1 is closest to the back edge of the
board. The printed side of the regulator will face inward and the silver heat sink will face
outward.
15. Infrared receivers U7 and U8 should now be soldered into position. These are three
pin devices. Note that the 3 leads must be straightened prior to installation. Pin 1 must
match the square on the circuit board so that the receivers face forward at a small angle.
Two small metal arms reach out from the back of each receiver. To ground the receiver, use
a leftover resistor lead and solder this between the right hand arm and the hole behind pin
3 on the circuit board.
16. The RS232 9-pin connector J4 may now be soldered into position. There is only one
orientation for this connector.
17. Solder the battery connector to JP1, the red wire should be on the outside of the
board, in the square hole as shown below.
18. Short out jumper JP2 with the black 2 pin connector provided. Temporarily install
batteries into your battery pack and plug this into your board. Make sure that nothing is
shorting out. Measure the points below to ensure that you are getting the following
voltages:
U3 between pin 8 and 20 approx 5volts (Note pin 1 is next to the notch, bottom LHS)
U4 between pin 4 and 8 approx 6volts
U4 between pin 4 and 16 approx 5volts
If voltages are correct, unplug your battery pack and go to the next step. If not,
double check your board for solder bridges, etc. Do not continue until the voltages are
correct.
19. Carefully insert the following chips into their sockets on the circuit board. The
notches on the chips must match the notches on the sockets. Note that on new chips the
pins may need to be bent slightly to ensure easy insertion into the sockets.
Chip Designator Description Socket

DS275 Voltage Level Converter U2
PIC16F876A PIC Microcontroller U3
L293 Dual H-Bridge Motor Controller U4
20. Your motor has four wires connected to it. These wires must be inserted from the
bottom of the board and soldered from the top at the JP3 location. The brown wire should
be inserted into the square hole, closest to the back of the circuit board. This is followed
by the red, orange and yellow as pictured below. Note that black electrical tape is applied
as a strain relief. The aluminum chassis is shown below but has not yet been attached.
21. Obtain the single longest screw, a lock washer, and a nut from your parts kit.
Attach these to the hole in the middle of the back edge of the circuit board as shown
below.
22. Using two medium screws and two short standoffs, attach the motor towards the
back of the chassis provided. Refer to the two pictures below as reference. Note that the
2 short nylon standoffs are only used to hold the drive train in place on the aluminum
chassis.
23. Add the two long standoffs near the front of the chassis using the two short
screws. These are the main insulated supports for the PCB to be attached next.
24. Slip the circuit board carefully under the aluminium back plate of the chassis and
screw it into place at the back using the single long screw. Note that 2 extra nuts can be
used at this point to properly center the PCB below the aluminum chassis plate. Attach the
PCB at the front using the 2 long nylon standoffs and nuts provided.
25. Stick a piece of Teflon or double sided tape onto the bottom center of the chassis.
This provides an insulated space to prevent the screws from touching the competition ring
surface. If double sided tape is used do not remove its protective backing.
26. Add the wheels to the motor axles by simply sliding them on.
27. From the bottom of the chassis, slide the infrared transceivers U5 and U6 legs
first into position on the bottom of the circuit board. Do not solder yet! Note that pin 1 has
a dot on the square plastic package and goes to the square pad on the PCB.
28. Place the black plastic temporary positioning spacers in the holes on the bottom of
the chassis below the transceivers. These are shown in the picture.
29. From the top of the circuit board, gently push down on the legs of the transceivers
so that the head of the transceiver is centered in the hole and is resting on the plastic
support. This will set a proper height and orientation for the transceivers.
30. Carefully maintain the position of the transceivers while you solder them into place.
31. Remove the temporary plastic supports.
32. Note the finished product below. All that is required is the light shield on the
LEDs, some strain reliefs and the battery pack to power up your SUMO robot. Your
instructor will go over these final details with you now.
33. Congratulations! You have completed the assembly of your Sumo Robot!
Parts Layout Diagram Appendix A
Back Edge
Front Edge

Sumo Robot PCB Assembly

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Sumo Robot PCB Assembly

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Camosun College Electronics Department

Sumo Robot PCB Assembly Instructions

Hints for soldering:

Resistor R10 R11 R12 R13 R14 R15 R16 R17

Value Colour Code

Resistor colour codes are as follows:

3. Solder the 0.1 F capacitors, 100 pF capacitors, and the 15 pF capacitors in

Capacitor Value Marking

Chip Designator Description Socket

31. Remove the temporary plastic supports.

Parts Layout Diagram Appendix A

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