MINIMIZING DEFECTS IN THE SEWING

DEPARTMENT LEADING TO QUALITY IMPROVEMENT

Bachelor of Fashion Technology

(Apparel Production)

Submitted By

AAKANKSHA UPASHAM

Under the Guidance of

MR.T.S PRAKASH

Department of Fashion Technology

National Institute of Fashion Technology, (Mumbai)

May, 2016
 ABSTRACT

For any industry the production and quality management or wastages reductions have major

impingement on overall factory economy. This work discusses the quality improvement of

garment industry by applying tools such as checklist, cause and effect diagram and control

charts. The main purpose of the work is to reduce the defects, which will also minimize the

rejection and reworks rate .This work provides the guidelines for the betterment and control

of wastes in garment industry by using various quality tools, these tools are introduced and

implemented in the Company. Providing framework to identify, quantify and eliminate defect

sources by which the defects are determined. Along with that the corrective actions are

performed, and the defective percentage is compared before and after. The study also

improves the process performance of the critical operational processes. The outcome of this

observation reflected that an industry may gain higher productivity and profitability with

improved quality product by minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and

improves internal throughput time.

Key words: Reworks, Checklist, Data analysis, Cause and effect diagram, Control chart,

DHU (Defect per hundred units).

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 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that this Project Report titled Minimizing defects in the sewing department

leading to quality improvement is based on my (Aakanksha Upashams) original work,

conducted under the guidance of Mr. T.S Prakash towards partial fulfilment of the

requirement for award of the Bachelors Degree in Fashion Technology (Apparel

Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai. No part of this work

has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed has been duly

acknowledged.

Signature of Author/Researchers

Signature of Guide

3
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This internship would have been incomplete without the constant support of many people. So

we would like to take this opportunity to express our gratitude towards all of them.

I would like to thank my industry mentor, Mr. Munawwar Tamankar for his sincere

support as a motivator and a guide.

My sincere thanks to my college mentor Mr. T.S Prakash who continuously helped me and

motivated me in doing my project.

Moreover, I would like to thank Mr. Ashwin Shetty , CEO, XYZ company, for letting me

complete my graduation project.

My gratitude would also go to the faculty of NIFT Mumbai who has helped me in learning

the basics apparel production and especially to Mrs. Kavita Pathare - CC DFT for guiding

us throughout the course of my projec

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 LIST OF TABLES

Table 4.1: Initial Checklist...........................................................................................20

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 5.1: Percentage of defects-Style 1......................................................................27

Figure 5.2: Percentage of defects-Style 2......................................................................28

Figure 5.3: Percentage of defects-Style 3......................................................................29

Figure 5.4: Percentage of defects (Final 3 days data)-.....................................................30

Figure 5.5: Percentage of defects (Final 3 days data)-Style 1..........................................31

Figure 5.6: Percentage of defects (Final 3 days data)-Style 2..........................................31

Figure 5.7: Percentage of defects (Final 3 days data)-Style 3..........................................31

Figure 5.8: Defect per hundred unit (DHU)-Style 1......................................................32

Figure 5.9: Defect per hundred unit (DHU)-Style-2......................................................33

Figure 5.10: Defect per hundred unit (DHU)-Style 3....................................................34

Figure 5.11: Defect per hundred unit (DHU) Per style..................................................35

Figure 5.12: Defects in Garment section......................................................................36

Figure 5.13: Zone wise defects.....................................................................................37

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Figure 5.14: Cause and effect diagram-Open seam.........................................................38

Figure 5.15: Cause and effect diagram-Twisted allowance..............................................40

Figure 5.16: Cause and effect diagram-Broken stitch......................................................41

Figure 5.17: Cause and effect diagram-Loose/skip stitch................................................43

Figure 5.18: Cause and effect diagram-Piping wavy......................................................44

Figure 5.19: Cause and effect diagram-Labels...............................................................46

Figure 5.20: Cause and effect diagram-Puckering..........................................................47

Figure 5.21: Control chart-Style 1...............................................................................49

Figure 5.22: Control chart-Style 2.........................................................................................................50

Figure 5.23: Control chart-Style 3............. .........................................................51

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 CONTENTS

1.INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................... 9

2. OBJECTIVE ..................................................................................................................................... 10

3. REVIEW OF LITERATURE ........................................................................................................... 11

4. METHODOLOGY ........................................................................................................................... 22

4.1 SWOT Analysis .......................................................................................................................... 22

4.2 Checklist ..................................................................................................................................... 23

4.3. Data analysis (for both checklists) ............................................................................................. 25

4.4. Cause and effect diagram. .......................................................................................................... 26

4.5. Control charts ............................................................................................................................. 27

4.5.1 Steps to create np chart ........................................................................................................ 28

5. RESULTS AND ANALYSIS ........................................................................................................... 30

5.1. Checklist .................................................................................................................................... 30

5.2. Data analysis .............................................................................................................................. 30

5.2.1. Major and Minor defects: .................................................................................................... 34

5.2.2. DHU (defects per hundred units) ........................................................................................ 35

5.3 Cause and effect diagram ............................................................................................................ 42

5.3.1 OPEN SEAM .......................................................................................................................... 42

5.3.2 TWISTED ALLOWANCE ......................................................................................................... 44

5.3.3 BROKEN STITCH .................................................................................................................... 45

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 5.3.4 LOOSE/SKIP STITCH .............................................................................................................. 47

5.3.5 PIPING WAVY ....................................................................................................................... 48

5.3.6 LABELS .................................................................................................................................. 50

5.3.7 PUCKERING .......................................................................................................................... 51

5.4. Control charts ............................................................................................................................. 53

6. FINDING .......................................................................................................................................... 56

7. CONCLUSION ................................................................................................................................. 56

8. SCOPE .............................................................................................................................................. 56

9. REFERENCE.................................................................................................................................... 57

10. BIBLIOGRAPHY ........................................................................................................................... 59

11. APPENDICES

Appendix I

Appendix II

Appendix III

Appendix IV

Appendix V

Appendix VI

Appendix VII

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1. INTRODUCTION

The change seen in global economic condition is rapid, generally in an industry more focus is

given on profit margin, customer demand for high quality product and improved productivity.

In garment manufacturing, it is usual few rejected garments after shipment. Reason, most of

the manufacturers believe that garments are soft goods and non-repairable defect may occur

due to low quality raw materials or faulty process or employee casual behaviour.

However, factory must have check points to control over this issue. There is no ready-made

solution that can reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order is unique. We see a lot of

rejected garment after shipment. Most of the organization termed these garments as rejected

because those garments cant be repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments industry is

a common works that hampers the smooth production rate and focus poor quality products

having an impact on overall factory economy.

Minimization of reworks is a must in quality and productivity improvement. Rework is a vital

issue for poor quality product and low production rate. Reworks are the non -productive

activities focusing on any activity that customer are not willing to pay for. Non-productive

activities describe that the customer does not consider as adding value to his product. When

the study was taken place initial defect rate was counted as high as 53.84% By reacting

quicker in minimization of reworks to make a product as per customer demand with expected

quality, the company can invest less money and more costs savings .So to reduce these re-

works and increase productivity of garment a data collection of re-works needs to be done by

which a complete understanding of exact amount of non-productive work happening.

Studying about data and analysing its cause effects may lead to the future control of defects.

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2. OBJECTIVE

To identify and minimize the defects in the sewing department, thereby leading to quality

improvement.

2.1 Sub-Objective

Minimize the process flow and maximise the production.

Identify the factors that lead to increase in rejections and reworks.

To determine the critical operations leading to defects.

Search for possible solutions or alternatives for improving the operation.

To bring down and sustain rejections to a minimum level.

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3. REVIEW OF LITERATURE

Case study- 1

One of the key processes performed in organizations is to minimize the re-works and increase

productivity of the sewing line. This review will include the process of reducing the re-works

or alteration happening in the various departments of garment industry. After that, some of

the popular methodologies and approaches are discussed. The current literature published by

Md. Mazedul Islam, Adnan Maroof Khan Md.Mashiur Rahman Khan, January 2013 gives

great emphasis to the importance of decreasing the amount of rework, which meets the

overall productivity of the industry.

Generally in an industry more focus is given on profit margin, customer demand for high

quality product and improved productivity. In garment manufacturing, it is usual few rejected

garments after shipment. However, factory must have check points to control over this issue.

There is no ready-made solution that can reduce rejection percentage overnight. In this

review works suggest how to handle this issue and bring down rejection rate to minimum. We

see a lot of rejected garment after shipment. Most of the organization termed these garments

as rejected because those garments cant be repaired by any means. Reworks in the garments

industry is a common works that hampers the smooth production rate and focus poor quality

products having an impact on overall factory economy. Minimization of reworks is a must in

quality and productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for poor quality product and

low production rate.. Non-productive activities like this describe that the customer does not

consider as adding value to his product. By reacting quicker in minimization of reworks to

make a product as per customer demand with expected quality, the company can invest less

money and more costs savings.

11
Thus the review deals with an application of methodology in an industry which provides a

framework to identify quantify and eliminate sources of variation in an operational process,

to optimize the operation variables, improve and sustain process performance with well-

executed control plans. The application of this paper improves the process performance of the

critical operational process, leading to better utilization of resources, decreases variations &

maintains consistent quality of the process output. The outcome of this review reflected that

an industry may gain higher productivity and profitability with improved quality product by

minimizing reworks activities. It also minimizes cost and improves internal throughput time.

Case study-2

Quality improvement of the product is the key to keep the garment sector on the track of

global competition. At this critical point, manufacturers should give top priority to reduce

defects in their products and become competitive. As the world financial situation is changing

quickly, industries are now giving more focus on customer demand for superior quality

product, turnover and enhanced productivity.

A study by M.M. Islam and A.M. Khan shows that rejected garments after shipment is very

usual in the garment manufacturing industries in Bangladesh and this problem greatly

hampers the reputation of our garments industries.

According to Tennant and Geoff, A systematic continuous improvement process can

largely minimize the defect percentage and increase the productivity.

Dr. Sikorski emphasis that in order to achieve the overall objective in minimizing defects

and rejection of finished products it is required to set up document and maintain a system

able to ensure that products are conformance to the standards specifications.

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Considering the reasons in the review published by Uddin S.M. and Rahman C.M.L this

study makes an attempt to explore the use of DMAIC (define, measure, analyze, improve and

control) methodology of six sigma in a selected garment factory to minimize the defect

percentage. DMAIC methodology of six sigma is a problem solving method where six sigma

tools are used to analyze the process data and finally the root causes behind the defects

produce in the product are identified.

Six sigma is a quality improvement process of final product by reducing the defects,

minimizing the variation and improving capability in the manufacturing process. A study by

Antony indicates six sigma, as a more superior level of quality which will definitely

implemented in those organizations that are devoted to business excellence after QMS

certification. It is a set of course of action foundation on statistical process control (SPC) that

is capable of helping companies to achieve considerable improvement in product quality and

hence raise competitiveness. Different six sigma tools were used in different phases. Pareto

analysis was done to identify the major types of defects. Root causes of those defects were

detected by cause and effect analysis. Six sigma initiated from the terms associated with

statistical modelling of manufacturing processes.

Concerning this matter, the present study explores the use of DMAIC methodology of six

sigma to minimize the defect rate in a selected garment factory. This is a systematic approach

towards defects minimization through five phases of DMAIC methodology named define,

measure, analyze, improve and control. Finally some potential solutions are suggested to

overcome those causes. The result found after implementation of the solutions is very

significant. The defect percentage has been reduced from 12.61 to 7.7 and consequently the

Sigma level has been improved from 2.64 to 2.9255.

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 Case study-3

As Readymade Garments sector is a large industrial sector in Bangladesh, quality

improvement can play a vital role for improving productivity as well as economic

development for the country. This review published by Tanvir Ahmed, Raj Narayan

Acharjee, MD.Abdur Rahim, Noman Sikder, Taslima Akther, Mohd. Rifat Khan,

MD.Fazle Rabbi3, Anup Saha - 2013 represents a detail investigation on quality

improvement of a garment factory by applying:

Cause-Effect Diagram.

The aim of this study is to minimize defects that will reduce rework and rejection rate

At present the success of the Readymade Garments sector highly depends on several factors

such as manufacturing lead time, quality of product, production cost etc. These factors are

hampered due to various defects in the products. These defects can be repairable that leads to

rework or non-repairable that leads to rejection. Rework in the garments industry is a

common work that hampers the smooth production rate and focus poor quality products

having an impact on overall factory economy. Minimization of reworks is a must in quality

and productivity improvement. Rework is a vital issue for poor quality product and low

production rate. Reworks are the non-productive activities focusing on any activity that

customer are not willing to pay for. Non-productive activities describe that the customer does

not consider as adding value to his product. An application of pareto analysis and cause-

effect diagram for minimizing defect percentage in sewing section. By reacting quicker in

minimization of reworks to make a product as per customer demand with expected quality,

the company can invest less money and more costs savings. Whereas rejection causes waste

and deceases resource efficiency. In this review four months defect data has been collected

from the management and Pareto Analysis is performed on them.

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From the analysis top defect positions are identified where 78.56% defects occur. On those

top positions further Pareto Analysis is performed to identify the top defect types. That

resulted in total 115 concerning areas where 71.40% defects occur, which should be the

major concerning areas to reduce defect percentage. So hierarchies of causes for individual

defect types are organized and Cause-Effect Diagrams are constructed for those defect types.

Then relative suggestions to those causes are also provided.

Case study-4

Dalgobind Mahto in this paper, it gives details of root cause analysis methods and

techniques in identification quality of major key characteristics in manufacturing process. It

is very risk in identifying problem in multistage operation. In this paper, root cause analysis

was adopted to reduce the defect rate in cutting operation in CNC machines. This study dives

detail structure to solve human related problem in manufacturing process. This study gives an

idea for stakeholders to promote effective and better solution all time.

Tanvir Ahamad this paper presents on use of Pareto chart and cause and effect diagram in

analysing the defect caused in garment industry. This papers aims at reducing the defect rate

caused while stitching clothes. Using these methods it was identified about 80% defect rate in

process of stitching. The top five defects was identified and analysed. Using cause and

eff22ect diagram causes and effect are constructed. The study provided suggestion to reduce

the defect rate. Thus this papers gives idea of how effectively minimizing the rework and

defect rate.

A.L. Moe and A.B Abu in this paper, it uses the six sigma approach in defect reducing in

automobile industry. The six sigma processes like define, analysis, measure, improve and

15
control are applied. This study includes tools like quality management tools such as Pareto

analysis, data analysis, cause and effect diagram and design of experiments. This study aims

at finding out the root cause to problem and providing solution .This paper highlighted the

cause foe product rejection rate. This paper aims at reducing rejection rate from 38% to 13%.

Hence six sigma approach was effective in reducing the defect.

Md .Mazidhul Ibram this research highlights on use of quality tool in minimizing the

rework in apparel industry. This paper gives idea of quality and productivity improvement in

apparel industry. The methods helps to provide the framework in indentify the defect and

analyse. It helps to reduce the defect rate. This paper gives the idea of application of process

performance of critical process which leads to proper utilization of machines and time. The

paper aims at improve the productivity by minimizing cost and internal throughput time.

Case study -5

Pratima Mishra and Rajiv Kumar Sharma in their study proposed a hybrid framework

(suppliers, inputs, process, output and customers define measure, analyze, improve and

control (SIPOC+DMAIC)) aimed to improving supply chain management (SCM) process

dimensions in a supply chain (SC) network. Although process dimensions related to SCM are

critical to organization competitiveness, research so far has tended to focus on supply chain

operations and reference model, balanced scorecard, total quality management, activity-based

costing, just in time, etc., but in literature hardly any description of the SIPOCDMAIC model

to improve SCM process performance is provided. The use of statistics in DMAIC provides

better insight into the process performance, and process control. Based upon the critical

review of literature, process dimensions (average outgoing quality limit (AOQL), average

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outgoing quality (AOQ), process Z, defect per million opportunity) critical to SCM

performance were identified.

A framework consisting of three phases, i.e., design, implementation and results has been

conceptualized and a case from paint industry is investigated. Implementation framework

makes use of SIPOC model and Six Sigma DMAIC methodology. It was observed from the

results that selection of appropriate strategies for improving process performance based upon

experiences and use of statistical tools by cross functional teams with an effective

coordination, guarantees success. Metrics such as AOQL shows the maximum worst possible

defective or defect rate for the AOQ. Process Z helps to know about sigma capability of the

process.

Chethan Kumar. C.S, N.V.R Naidu, K.Ravindranath advocated the significance of

implementing DMAIC methodology to control defects in garments industry.

Chethan Kumar .C.S, N.V.R Naidu, K.Ravindranath illustrated the importance of using

the lean principles to eliminate non value added wastes in garment industry.

Ploytip Jirasukprasert used six sigma and DMAIC application for the reduction of defects

in a manufacturing process.

The review provides the guidelines for the betterment and control of wastes in garment

industry for shorts and pants by using six sigma methodology. By DMAIC methodology

major factor for the defects are determined, along with that the corrective actions are

performed, and the defective % is compared before and after the implementation of corrective

actions, where the sigma level has been increased from 2.8 to 3.38.

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DHU (defects per hundred units)

In garment production processes, quality checking stations are set for stopping defects at the

source and stopping defective garment passing to the following processes. Normally,

checking is done for raw materials, partially stitched garments, stitched garments and finished

garments by quality checkers. In checking, quality checker detects defects in garments and

separate defective garments from good pieces. Where there is established quality system,

quality checker records total number of defects found in the garments checked by her/him in

a day and also she/he records the number of defective garments where those defects are

found. Quality checking records are summarized and result is presented in DHU.

DHU value is calculated using following formula.

Illustration: Assume that a finishing checker checked 250 garments in a day. Checker found

20 defective garments and he recorded 35 defects in those defective pieces. What is

the DHU of finishing process?

Solution: By using above formula DHU of the finishing goods is

=35*100/250

= 14

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Tools:

The defects which are occurred at the production process in the apparel factory, affect quality

of the product and productivity of the factory and also they increase the cost of production.

For quality improvement and decreasing the cost of production, it is necessary to avoid poor

quality. In this research, it is examined to decrease the sewing defects by using quality

control tools in the apparel factory.

Checklist

The frequencies of sewing defects in the operations at the sewing department are determined

by check list.

Data analysis

The operations which have highest sewing defect rates and the effects of these operations to

the defect rate are examined by using the data analysis.

Cause and effect diagram

The reasons of the defects are analyzed with the cause-effect diagram for the operation which

has the highest sewing defect rate.

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Control Charts

The rate of defect in the sewing department is examined statistically by control chart whether

its under control or not.

Control chart was introduced by Walter .A. Shewhart .The control chart is a graph used to

study how a process changes over time. Data are plotted in time order. A control chart always

has a central line for the average, an upper line for the upper control limit (UCL) and a lower

line for the lower control limit (LCL). These lines are determined from historical data. By

comparing current data to these lines, you can draw conclusions about whether the process

variation is consistent (in control) or is unpredictable (out of control, affected by special

causes of variation). Control charts for variable data are used in pairs. The top chart monitors

the average, or the centring of the distribution of data from the process. The bottom chart

monitors the range, or the width of the distribution. If data were shots in target practice, the

average is where the shots are clustering, and the range is how tightly they are clustered.

Control charts for attribute data are used singly

Attribute control charts:

In this literature it explains\attribute control chart applied in Brick industry cluster,

researched and studied by Ismail M.B.M and Velnampy T. Quality control is a process by

which entities review the quality of all factors involved in production. Statistical process

control (SPC) is the application of statistical methods to the monitoring and control of a

process to ensure that it operates at its full potential to produce conforming product. Attribute

control chart is one type of the control chart. This research aims at knowing numbers of

quality (non-defectives) and defectives manufactured by Oluvil Brick Manufactory and

20
determining 3 sigma levels for Oluvil Brick Manufactory. Oluvil Brick Manufactory is taken

a case study. This research is approached by analytical model of graphs i.e. attribute control

chart and mathematical equations such as Upper Control Limit (UCL) and Lower Control

Limit (LCL) for quality control. This research is based on both exploratory design and

conclusive design. It is concluded that Oluvil Brick Manufactory produces 98 %

nondefectives and 2 % of defectives. It produces bricks within 3 sigma levels. Once

defectives are removed there can be zero-defective in Oluvil Brick Manufactory. Divisional

Secretariat of Addalaichenai can recover its sales of bricks lost in past. This research adds

value due to first time application of np chart among Brick Industry Clusters (BIC) in

Divisional Secretariat of Addalaichenai.

NP chart

NP charts are used to monitor the number of nonconforming units of a process based on samples

taken from the process at given times (hours, shifts, days, weeks, months, etc.). Typically, an initial

series of samples is used to estimate the average number of nonconforming units per sample. The

estimated average is then used to produce control limits for the number of nonconforming units.

During this initial phase, the process should be in control. If points are out-of-control during the initial

(estimation) phase, the assignable cause should be determined and the sample should be removed

from estimation. Once the control limits have been established for the NP chart, these limits may be

used to monitor the number nonconforming going forward. When a point is outside these established

control limits it indicates that the number of nonconforming units of the process is out-of-control. An

assignable cause is suspected whenever the control chart indicates an out-of-control process.

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4. METHODOLOGY

the Initial method followed was SWOT analysis to recognise the strengths, weakness,

opportunity and threat which will further be useful in the project.

4.1 SWOT Analysis

Strength:

Higher authority in the industry welcomes new system.

Meetings are arranged, when new methods are formulated with the concerned people

in the line.

Given authority to complain to the higher management who doesnt cooperate.

Weakness:

Attitude of the workers.

Negligence towards new system.

Leadership of supervisor weak.

Opportunity:

To reduce the re-works in the line.

Increase line efficiency.

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Threat:

Reluctant of operators and line supervisor for new format

Operator causing defects.

Immediately threaten to leave job if anything against their comfort zone taken place.

In next step, checklist was prepare to collect data.

4.2 Checklist

Following are the steps which were followed to collect data:

To study the defect data

Collecting defect data for the ongoing style to understand the defect rate.

Collect data for new style.

Analyse the data and suggest solutions for the defect that has high rate

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 Following is the format utilized initially to calculate defect percentage of each day

Table 4.1

Observing and analysing data:

Data is analysed in graph format for styles that was worked on

Data analysis consist the percentage of defects produced by each style and their

percentage defect

Comparing the initial defect rate and final defect rate

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 Taking the average of last 3 days of all style and comparing data with the style when

project wasnt started to execute

For more accurate date a new format was created. The format was revised as earlier format

did give the percentage of defects but the root cause i.e. which part of garment has more

defects and whether they are major defects or minor defects were not specified. So, to

identify the root cause new format was made

(*Refer appendix I for revised format of end line checking)

4.3. Data analysis (for both checklists)

Data collected are then transformed into graph as per styles and their rate of defects

Data are also divided into their garment categories which specify major positions of

defects in garment.

Defect positions also give the zones in which defect falls which stated which are more

visible defects

Late, DHU is grouped as per the highest defect rate to lowest defect rate

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4.4. Cause and effect diagram.

When the defects are known, DHU of more than 1 are stated in cause and effect

diagram

Brainstorm the major categories of causes of the problem. If this is difficult use

generic headings:

o Methods

o Machines

o Man

o Materials

Write the categories of causes as branches from the main arrow.

Brainstorm all the possible causes of the problem. Causes can be written in several

places if they relate to several categories.

26
4.5. Control charts

Control charts created to know the limit of the defects occur.

The use of attribute control charts arises when items are compared with some standard and

then are classified as to whether they meet that standard or not. The Np control chart is used

to determine if the rate of nonconforming product is stable, and will detect when a deviation

from stability has occurred. There are those who argue that there should only be an Upper

Control Limit (UCL), and not a Lower Control Limit (LCL) since rates of nonconforming

product outside the LCL is actually a good thing. However, if we treat the LCL violations as

another search for an assignable cause, we could learn where lower nonconformity rates lie

and perhaps eliminate them further.

Np chart is used when the size of the subgroup (N) is constant, and a P chart is used when it

is not constant.

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4.5.1 Steps to create np chart

1. Collect the data recording the number inspected (N) and the number of defective

products (Np). Divide the data into subgroups. Usually, the data is grouped by date or

by lot numbers.

2. Record the number of defectives on a chart or spreadsheet, along with the subgroup

size.

3. Record the number of defectives for each subgroup and record on the data sheet. Then

total columns, number of defects, and total number of garment checked.

Use the following formula to determine your Pbar, (P) and to determine the percentage

defective:

NP = number of defectives = Np = P

Total Parts Inspected N

To indicate as a percentage, multiply answer by 100.(NP)

4. Compute the Control Limits using the formula below:

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 Central line(CL) CL=NP (%)

Upper control limit(UCL) UCL=NP +3 NP (1-P)

Lower control limit(LCL) LCL=NP- 3NP (1-P)

5. Draw in the Control Limits and plot the number of defective parts listed in our

chart above. Connect the dots and observe the chart to determine if there are any

points out of the control limit

29
5. RESULTS AND ANALYSIS

5.1. Checklist

Frequency in the sewing defect in the operations at sewing department

For our research work we have collected three months defect data starting from January 2016

to April 2016. The data has been taken from one production line of sewing section from the

export section during the production. Among the defect types, majorly the of open seam

occurred. Similarly other defect types are also counted together. Number of defects of line are

listed below are listed on the Check Sheet by QC supervisor.

(*Refer to appendix I and II for Checklist data)

5.2. Data analysis

(*Refer to appendix II,III,IV for data collection sheets of following style)

Following is the graph formed by the results of checklist for style BS112564

Order quantity of the style: 9528

Data collected are from 1st February to 19th February

30
 Style:1
Percentage of defects

53.84
46.38
39.25 41.62
38.9 36.9
32.36 33.75 32.76
29.63 30.4 27.56 27.39
26.23 24.76 25.48
19.8

1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 17 18 19

Figure: 5.1

The graph represents reworks data in a percentage format. The above data is for long sleeve

ladies blouse. Initial data shows that the re-works data are high as 53.84% .Later the

percentage reduced to 25.48% making the difference of about 25%

Following is the graph formed by the results of checklist for style BS112565.Style is same as

the above style:

Order quantity of the style: 9528

Data collected are from 20th February to 8th March

31
 Style:2
Percentage of defects

39.72
37.55

27.01 25.59
24.02 22.55
21.84 21.64 22.2 21.02
19.69 18.53 18.29
16.03 17.12

20 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 1 2 3 4 5 7 8

Figure 5.2

The graph represents reworks data in a percentage format. The above data is for long sleeve

ladies blouse (repeat style). Initial data shows that the re-works data are high as 39.72%

.Later the percentage reduced to 17.12% making the difference of about 22%.Here we can

conclude that both style are same and has same number of order quantity. But Style 1 took 17

days to complete a style whereas Style 2 took 15 days to complete it.

This concludes that reducing the number of alteration results in the increase of productivity

32
Following is the graph formed by the results of checklist for style BS113656.This style too is

long sleeve ladies

Order quantity of the style: 15008

Data collected are from 10th March to 9th April

Percentage of defects
Percentage of defects

35.6 29.9
30.09 29.12 23.83
26.38 20.63 22.9 19.96 24.6 18.28
23.77 20.3 18.88 15.53 14.12
20.66 17.83 20.74
19.83 20.13 18.24 19.47
17.46 15.05
15.1

10 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 21 22 23 25 26 28 29 30 31 1 2 4 5 6 7 8 9

Figure 5.3

The graph represents reworks data in a percentage format. The above data is for long sleeve

ladies blouse Initial data shows that the re-works data are 35.72% .Later the percentage

reduced to 15.05% making the difference of about 20.67%.

From the above 3 style we conclude that the defect rate went down from 53.84 to 15.05

For more precise data analysis we include the data of ongoing style before applying format of

month of January. By taking calculating the average of all 4 styles by their last 3 days

average the defect percentage of Style 1, style2 and style 3 are

33
5.2.1. Major and Minor defects:

Major defects are less compare to minor defects .Minor defect comprises of about 95% of

the total defect percentage

Now, calculating the difference between the style before the study and the styles that was

studied in the span of 3 months

Percentage of defects

38.1

34.22
33.86

Figure 5.4

The above data is collected from last 3 days for style which was already in line before project

starts.

34
Following data are from last 3 days of style for which defect data has been studied with

applied changes. The data are from the month of Feb to March

Style 1 Style 2 Style 3

Percentage of defects
Percentage of defects Percentage of defects
18.2
15.0
9 15.1 5
24.76 25.48
17.1
19.8 2

16.0
14.1
3
2

17 18 19 5 7 8 7 8 9

Figure 5.5 Figure 5.6 Figure 5.7

5.2.2. DHU (defects per hundred units)

Total number of garments checked 34064

Number of defects found 8279

DHU (includes all styles) 24.30

Now, calculating DHU per style

35
STYLE: 1

Order quantity: 9528

Number of defects occurred: 3071

DHU: 32.23

Calculating DHU for each defect with respect to total number of defects

Style 1
DHU

35.23

13.77
10.74
5.86 5.34 5.21 4.91 4.36 4 3.61 3.38 2.89
0.61 0.13

Figure 5.8

36
STYLE: 2

Order quantity: 9528

Number of defects occurred: 2107

DHU: 22.11

Calculating DHU for each defect with respect to total number of defects

Style-2
DHU

59.94

8.49 7.26 6.12 5.55 4.08 3.89 2.94 0.71 0.37 0.33 0.23 0.04

Figure 5.9

37
STYLE 3:

Order quantity: 15008

Number of defects occurred: 3101

DHU: 20.6

Calculating DHU for each defect with respect to total number of defects

Style-3
DHU
37.76

13.93
10.96 9.67 8.96 7.86
3.22 2.03 1.74 1.25 0.9 0.83 0.83

Figure 5.10

From the above graphs it can be concluded that the highest occurring defect in every style is

open seam

38
To quantify the DHU, total numbers of DHU in per style are compared.

DHU
DHU
32.23

22.11
20.6

Style 1 Style 2 Style3

Figure 5.11

From the above data it can be concluded that defects per hundred units (DHU) are reduced

from 32.23 to 20.6. Difference of Style and style 2 is 10.12 i.e. the line increased its quality to

10 %.

In same manner difference between style 2 and style 3 is 1.5 i.e. the line increased its quality

further by 1.5%.

Average DHU of 3 styles studies is 24.98.

39
To quantify the major occurring defects in various parts of garments, garment section was

created to get the prominent data of defects occurred. Dividing the sections is standard,

followed in garment industry.

Garment Section
Defect rate

1842

739
467
356 378
211

Upper front Upper back Shoulder Lower front Lower back Under arm

Figure 5.12

The above data conclude that the amount of defects occurred in upper front is almost half of

total number of defects which is 3993.The defects that majorly occurred in this area are open

seams and broken stitch.

Second highest number of defects occurred are in are in lower front which includes defects

like twisted allowance and open seam

Lowest numbers of defects are in that of under arm

40
By above categories we can calculate the defects in each zone thus concluding that the

defects were visible defects or not

Zones
Defects

2665

1328

A B

Figure 5.13

The above graph concludes that zone A has the maximum defects, Zone A are the part of

garments which are visibly distinct.

41
5.3 Cause and effect diagram

Cause and effect diagram are to analyse the reason of the major occurring defects

5.3.1 OPEN SEAM

MAN MACHINE

Resistance to accept new system Faulty feed dog

Lack of skill

Piles aligned not proper

OPEN SEAM

Incorrect threading
Weak thread
Stitching method not standardise

Tension of sewing thread

not right

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.14: Cause and effect diagram Open seam

42
Provided solutions:

Causes Solutions

Open seam of piping As the operator was not skilled for that

operation was suggested that send in training

and new skilled operator from training was

kept.

Placement of the panel A well skilled operator of that operation

showed the handling of the garment and how

to place the garment ,a video can be created

for further use.

Lack of skill Worker sent into training department

Faulty fee dog Feed dog and hook set timing should be

checked periodically

43
5.3.2 TWISTED ALLOWANCE

MAN MACHINE

Fabric handling issue

In order to produce more

garments fabric tampered

TWISTED
ALLOWANCE

Twist due to presser foot

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.15: Cause and effect diagram Twisted allowance

Provided solution:

Causes Solutions

In order to produce more, garment tampered Incentives were suggested for morale

boosting of the worker

44
5.3.3 BROKEN STITCH

MAN MACHINE

Tension high
Fabric holding too tight

Needle plate presser foot

Incorrect needle eye rusty and have sharp edges
position

Faulty feed dog

BROKEN
STITCH

Bobbins used are not proper

Incorrect tension of Wrong needle-thread-fabric combination

sewing thread

METHOD
MATERIAL

Figure 5.16: Cause and effect diagram Broken stitch

Provided solution:

Causes Solutions

Fabric holding too tight Before the style starts concerned person will

be shown the fabric handling technique to the

45
 operator

Thread getting stuck in machine Machine should be checked by maintenance

department before the style starts as informed

by line supervisor

Tension high Tension and threading should not be fiddled

much

Incorrect needle eye position Needle alignment should be right and

checked before operator starts stitching

Needle-thread-fabric combination should be

well judged

46
5.3.4 LOOSE/SKIP STITCH

MAN MACHINE

Fabric holding tight SPI of machine low

Worn thread guides, paths or eyelets

LOOSE /SKIP
STITCH

Needle worn out

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.17: Cause and effect diagram Loose/skip stitch

Provided solution:

Causes Solutions

Handling issues Operator should be shown the way garment

is been handles

Needle worn out New needle has to be replaced and furte keep

on checking if any needle issue

47
5.3.5 PIPING WAVY

MACHINE
MAN

Fabric handling not proper

Faulty feed dog

Unskilled operator

PIPING
WAVY
Incorrect pressure of
presser foot Folder used not appropriate

Width of fabric improper

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.18: Cause and effect diagram Piping wavy

Provided solution:

Causes Solutions

Width of piping improper This was informed in cutting department

about the width issue in fabric. Hence

forward checking the measure and then

putting it in the line

Folder used not proper As the folder was slightly tilted new folder

48
 was need to be attached

Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should

not be fiddled with much

Faulty feed dog Feed dog should be checked periodically

49
5.3.6 LABELS

MAN
MACHINE

Labels put on wrong side

Labels not attached

LABELS

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.19: Cause and effect diagram Labels

50
 5.3.7 PUCKERING

MAN MACHINE

Tension high
One of the two panels stretched

Rusty eyelids and thread guides

PUCKERING

Incorrect tension of sewing thread Two panels were not similar

Incorrect presser foot Incorrect needle-thread-fabric combination

pressure
Incorrect SPI Twisted thread used

METHOD MATERIAL

Figure 5.20: Cause and effect diagram Puckering

Provided solution:

Causes Solutions

Twisted tread used Normal twist thread were told to use

Both plys not similar Lot has to stopped there and both plys

coming from cutting department are checked

UBT/trimmer should be used instead of

pulling and breaking thread

51
Rusty eyelids and thread guides Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should

be checked periodically for damages

Needle-thread-fabric combination should be

well judged

Operator training

52
5.4. Control charts

Control charts are utilized to observe the control limits. Here percentages of defects are

shown.

Lower controls (LCL) are same for all style but upper control limit (UCL) varies from style

to style.

(*Refer to appendix V,VI,VII for control chart sheets)

Control chart for style 1 :

Following are percentage of defects

Upper control limit for style is as 46.15 %

Control Limit: 32.23%

Lower control limit:18.31%

60

50

40

30

20

10

0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

Percentage of defects UCL CL LCL

Figure 5.21: Control chart Style1

53
Control chart for style 2 :

Following are percentage of defects

Upper control limit for style is as 34.34 %

Control Limit: 22.11%

Lower control limit:9.75 %

45
40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Percentage of defects UCL CL LCL

Figure 5.22: Control chart Style 2

54
Control chart for style 3 :

Following are percentage of defects

Upper control limit for style is as 32.78 %

Control Limit: 20.66%

Lower control limit:8.54%

40
35
30
25
20
15
10
5
0
0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Percentage of defects UCL CL LCL

Figure 5.23: Control chart Style 3

55
Observations from control chart

With each style highest control limit was narrowed. Final style shows highest control limit as

32.78% which got reduced from 46.15 % to 34.34% to 32.78%

6. FINDING

Improper operator training caused rework.

Absence of inline quality checkpoints lead to late identification of defects.

Certain critical operations were more prone to defects than others.

Improvement in operation process reduced rejections.

7. CONCLUSION

Reduced rejections and reworks and Improvement in quality through inline quality

check.

Increasing quality of line by 11.5%, by decreasing DHU.

Reducing number of defects leads to less throughput time.

8. SCOPE

Decrease in level of rejections and reworks and reduced fabric usage.

Increased productivity and reduction in lead time and cost reduction and increased

profit

Decrease in re-work ultimate lead to profit of industry. Profits can be utilized in

bringing more advanced machines which can lead to minimum re-work

56
9. REFERENCE

M., Islam, A., Khan, & M., Khan. (2013). Minimization of reworks in quality and

productivity improvement in the apparel industry. International Journal of

Engineering and Applied Sciences, 1, 4th ser. Retrieved February, 2016,

from http://eaas-journal.org/survey/userfiles/files/Minimization of Reworks in the

apparel industry.pdf

What is DHU? How to measure DHU? (n.d.). Retrieved February 16, 2016,

From http://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2013/10/what-is-dhu-how-to-measure-

dhu.html

N. Yusof, T. Sabir, & J., McLoughlin. (2015). Quality approaches for mass-produced

fashion: A study in Malaysian garment manufacturing. Retrieved February 7, 2016,

from http://waset.org/publications/10002833/quality-approaches-for-mass-produced-

Fashion-a-study-in-malaysian-garment-manufacturing

The Np Chart. (n.d.). Retrieved March, 2016,

from http://thequalityweb.com/npcontrol.html

NP charts. (n.d.). Retrieved February/March, 2016, from http://ncss.wpengine.netdna-

cdn.com/wp-content/themes/ncss/pdf/Procedures/NCSS/NP_Charts.pdf

57
 When to use an attribute chart, Quality America Inc. (n.d.). Retrieved March, 2016,

from, http://qualityamerica.com/LSS-Knowledge

Center/statisticalprocesscontrol/when_to_use_an_attribute_chart.php

M., Ismail, & T., Velnampy. (2013, September). Application of Attribute Quality

Control Chart (AQCC) in Brick Industry Clusters (BIC). Retrieved February/March,

2016, from http://www.ejcmr.org/files/September

2013/ARTICLE_2_SEPTEMBER_2013.pdf

Control charts. (n.d.). Retrieved February/March, 2016, from

http://www.improhealth.org/fileadmin/Documents/Improvement_Tools/Control_Char

ts.pdf

58
10. BIBLIOGRAPHY

S. Uddin, & C. Rahman. (September, 2014). Minimization of defects in the sewing

section of a garment factory through DMAIC methodology of six sigma. Research

Journal of Engineering Sciences, 3. Retrieved January, 2016, from

http://www.isca.in/IJES/Archive/v3/i9/4.ISCA-RJEngS-2014-53.pdf

Quality and Productivity Improvement in Apparel Industry. (n.d.). Retrieved January

28, 2016,

from http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/7220/quality-and-productivity-

improvement-in-apparel-industry

S., Das. (n.d.). Diagnostic study report on readymade garment cluster. Retrieved

February, 2016,

from http://www.ediindia.org/DSR/INDORE DS.pdf

59