3rd Edition

Volunteer Travel Guide, Romania

3rd Edition

Published and Printed by

Peace Corps Romania
Str. Negustori #16
Sector 2
Bucuresti

Editors
Adam McGarity
Anna Olson

Cover Art
Dustin Degrande

Photographs
Dustin Degrande, Men Working on Village Museum, pg. 18
Thomas Jernigan, Alley and Church in Cluj, pg. 14
Tara Karasch, Orthodox Church in Sighisoara, pg. 23
Amanda Greep, Sibiu Pedestrian Street, pg. 22

Information and Entry Contributions:

Richard Lapine, Arad - Louise Austin, Beclean Pe Somes - Tony Chamberlain, Bistrita - Kathy and John
Baker, Botosani - Mercedes Riofrio, Braila - Debbie Walker, Braila - Dan Alexander, Braila - Eileen Burke,
Brasov - Cliff Griffin - Beth Minor, Calimanesti/Caciulata - Campulung Muscel - Michael Destro, Campulung
Muscel - Jason Perrotta, Cluj Napoca - Patty Bortman, Cluj Napoca - Carla Rodriguez, Constanta - Adriana
Mosoiu, Constanta - Allan Goldberg, Craiova - Kris Vagos, Deva - Molly Davies, Fagaras - Danielle Eleeman,
Focsani - Evie Warawka, Focsani - Annabelle Townson, Galati - Lisa Fisher, Giurgiu - Eileen Burke - Ileanda -
Karen Larson, Lugoj - Annalisa Peterson, Lugoj - Kate Jacobs, Mangalia - Dustin DeGrande, Miercurea Ciuc -
David Richenthal, Miclosoara - Kathy Tin, Odorheiu Secuiesc - Steve Bergman, Odorheiu Secuiesc - Colby
DeHoff, Piatra Neamt - Michael Richard, Piatra Neamt - Nina Porzucki, Ramnicu Valcea - Kirsten Muetzel, Resita
- Anthony Tang, Resita - Caras Severin, Resita - Robert Mardock, Sebes - Rebecca Fergusson-Lutz, Sibiu -
Amanda Greep, Sibiu - Curtis Lindsey, Sighetu Marmatiei - Anne Nagrant, Sighetu Marmatie - Laura Barland,
Sighetu Marmatie Karisha Kuypers, Sighisoara - Riley Graebner, Sighisoara - Eileen Valdez-Woods, Sinaia -
Karisha Kuypers, Sinaia - Matthew Shurtlef, Suceava - Seth Baker, Suceava - Erin Belitskus, Suceava - Josh
Burke, Targoviste - James Nichols, Targu Jiu - Jack Dougherty, Targu Mures - Kirsten Muetzel, Timisoara - Andy
Trincia, Timisoara - Margaret Willens, Timisoara - Jackie Zirhelt, Tulcea - Michael Lacyk, Tulcea - Thomas
Moviel, Vatra Dornei

First Edition Published

2001

This Edition
June 2004

Although the authors and publisher have tried to make the information as accurate as possible, they accept
no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.
Contents
Letter from the editors . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Wallachia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Calimanesti/Caciulata . . . . . . . . .2
Campulung Muscel . . . . . . . . . . .3
Craiova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Giurgiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Ramnicu Valcea . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Targoviste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Targu Jiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Transylvania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Beclean pe Somes . . . . . . . . . .10
Brasov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Clu Napoca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Deva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Fagaras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Ileanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Miclosoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Miercurea Ciuc . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Ordorheiu Secuiesc . . . . . . . . .20
Sebes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sibiu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Sighisoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Sinaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Targu Mures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Zalau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Moldavia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Botosani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Braila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Focsani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Galati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Piatra Neamt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Suceava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Vatra Dornei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Mauramures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Sighetu Marmatiei . . . . . . . . . . .34
Banat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Arad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Lugoj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Resita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Timisoara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Dobrogea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Constanta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Mangalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Tulcea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
List of Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
 1

Letter From the Editors

Greetings to all,

Romania is a fascinating country, and adventurous travelers will find no shortage inter-
esting and exhilarating experiences here . . . Peace Corps volunteers know.
Volunteers all over the country have made this travel guide possible through contribut-
ing information about their sites and places they have traveled within the country.
Often this information is the kind obtained only through the experience of living and
serving in the country, and it is our pleasure to pass down these experiences so that
others may see the beauty and distinction that Romania posesses.

We are happy to present to you the Third Edition of the Peace Corps Romania Travel
Guide. Although this edition will be used primarily by volunteers, we have approached
the task of updating and improving upon past guides with the non-volunteer in mind.
We wish to see the guide assist all travelers who flip through its pages, and we are con-
fident that it is a quality companion to any standard travel guide.

We wish to thank all who assisted in the creation of the travel guide, and we wish to all
our readers the best as they discover Romania’s treasures. Drum bun!

Sincerely,

Adam McGarity (Group 15)

Anna Olson (Group 15)
 2 Volunteer Travel Guide
Wallachia
Wallachia
Wallachia is the flat southern region of Romania comprised largely of farms and industrial towns. It
is marked to the north by the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains and to the south by the Danube
River, which is also the border between Romania and Bulgaria. It is rarely called Wallachia anymore,
but rather “Tara Romaneasca” (Romanian Country).

The region offers several places worth visiting and attractions worth seeing. Of course the capital city
Bucuresti is a common destination with an intriguing Old Town, the monstrous Parliament building,
built under Nicolae Ceasescu, and all the conveniences (and inconveniences) of a capital city. Other
highlights in the region include monstaries and churches that are centuries old, well preserved
Roman ruins, and the remains of Vlad Tepes’ court and castle in Targoviste. The region also holds
famous artwork with three sculptures by the famed Brancusi in Targu Jiu, and the beautiful Theordor
Aman Art Museum in Craiova.

Calimanesti/Caciulata

Location
Calimanesti is the town south of Calciulata and is the name often used in reference to Calimanesti,
Calciulata, and the towns on the opposite side of the Olt River. Calimanesti proper is a quiet bed-
room community in which live many who work in Calciulata. Calimanesti is located just north of
Ramnicu Valcea, in the Olt Valley. While the towns are not well connected by train, buses running
between Sibiu and Ramnicu Valcea, some of which continue on to Bucaresti, are available through-
out the day. Dacos Bus Company, headquartered in Ramnicu Valcea, may be contacted for reser-
vations and departure times at (0250) 741-411 (Ramnicu Valcea) or (0744) 706-200 (Bucuresti)

Attractions
Calimanesti is a spa resort, although somewhat past its heyday. Nevertheless, the town is beautiful-
ly located in a heavily forested valley. The Cozia and Turnu Monasteries are just north of
Calimanesti, and are well worth a visit. Cozia Monestary was built by Mircea cel Batran (Mircea the
Old) and is also his final resting place. The monastery is one of the best preserved of its kind. In the
back of the Monastery visitors can see the high water marks from when the Olt River flooded before
the dams were installed. It is a 5 minute walk from the bus stop on the northbound side of the road,
an easy walk from the Caciulata hotels. The best way to go to Turnu Monastery is by way of a short
taxi ride.

Many people come to the area for the natural hot springs, which are plentiful in the area. The sul-
fur pools of Calciulata are refreshing but are overrun with splashing children in the summer and are
not particularly “clean” by American standards. However, the hotels also offer good massages for
300.000 lei. A short 5 minute walk south from the hotels along the river is a nice park with a large
covered building holding many natural mineral water springs. Clearly posted above each spring is a
listing of the contents of the water and the ailments it cures. The park is a great place to people watch,
fish, and buy fresh berries and honey. Because of its location in the valley, there are also numerous
opportunities for hiking, and many beautiful spots to relax or picnic.

Hiking: To Stanisoara and Beyond – Cross the foot bridge to Pausa, over the river, train tracks, and
truck route. The “Villa Pausa” will be ahead of you on the left. Two-three hours up the dirt road,
tucked in the mountains is Stanisoara Monastery. From here it is a two hour slog straight up to the
top.
 3

Wallachia
From Turnu to Stanisoara and Beyond – Take a taxi or the train to Turnu Monastery. Behind the build-
ing are trails to the top of Cozia Mountain (longer and harder than the Stanisoara Route). If looking
for more of a “walk in the woods” than a “hike,” take the relatively flat trail to Stanisoara Monastery
and down the dirt road to Pausa; there is also a side trail to a beautiful waterfall.

Note: It is not recommended to end hikes at Turnu because it is secluded and has no Taxis or buses,
and few trains.

Dining
The area lacks private restaurants, but each hotel has has a restaurant that serves the typical
Romanian fare. The notable exception, however; is the restaurant to the right of the bus stop in
Calciulata (as you are facing it). Here are the best Papanas in the country, not to mention a well kept
and rarely used, billiards table.

Lodging
In Calimanesti, the Hotel Centru is a typical one-star hotel located along the main road. The hotel
is in good condition and charges only 300.000 lei for a double. In Caciulata, all the hotels are the
same except for the new Hotel Lilliac and Trandafir (directly across the street from the bus stop).
They are comparably priced to the other hotels (about 1.000.000 lei for a double) but of exceptional-
ly better quality with their large, well lit rooms and big, beautiful, modern baths.

Campulung Muscel

Location
Campulung is located on the road between Pitesti and Brasov, approximately 100 kilometers away
from each. The best way to go is by maxi-taxi from the Pitesti bus station; “Apollo” is the maxi-taxi
company name.

Attractions
Campulung Muscel is not normally considered a tourist destination. Most travelers passing through
are on their way to Brasov or Curtea de Arges and aren’t aware that for a brief period, beginning in
1330, Campulung was the first capital of Romania or that there are a number of sites worth visiting
in the town itself, and the surrounding area.

Six kilometers south of Campulung is Jidava Castrul, the best-preserved Roman ruins in Arges
County. In the third century, 500 Roman soldiers were housed in this fortified camp to help protect
the eastern boundary of the province. The camp included the officer’s quarters, housing for the sol-
diers, grain storage facilities, and a central heating system. There is a museum on the grounds
(admission is about 15 cents) that has numerous artifacts from the site and a detailed scale model of
the fortifications. The facility is open daily from 9:00 – 5:00. If no one is there to welcome you, wan-
der until the caretaker who lives nearby comes to assist you.

Campulung has two fourteenth century churches on the main street, Strada Negru Voda. The best
known is the Negru Voda Monastery and Church, founded in 1292. The other is the Baratia, a
Catholic church built in the first part of the fourteenth century.

10 kilometers north of town is a turn going to Namiesti. One more kilometer down this road is the
Namiesti Monastery, established in the first half of the sixteenth century. The church at the
monastery is a cave church with only the entrance extending from the side of the hill. German artillery
 4 Volunteer Travel Guide
Wallachia
rounds from the nearby Mateias battlefield destroyed part of the monastery in 1916, but it was rebuilt
by 1921. The monastery is occupied entirely by nuns.

Two kilometers further along the road to Brasov is the Mateias Mausoleum, Monument, and
Museum, site of a major, early World War I battle. In August of 1916, Romania ended its neutrality
and declared war on Germany. German forces already stationed in Transylvania and Hungary soon
invaded. In a two-pronged offensive, the Germans attempted to drive down through the Jiu Valley and
Bran Pass to capture Bucuresti. At the beginning of October, 1916, a battle began near Mateias, and
an under-equipped Romanian force held off the German army for 45 days. At that point, the
Romanian forces were forced to withdraw because of setbacks in the Jiu Valley, and Bucuresti soon
fell. The Mateias Mausoleum contains the remains of some of the 2,300 Romanian soldiers that died
there.

The museum is opened daily 9:00-5:00, and admission is $0.25; it contains artifacts from the period,
photographs, and a diorama of Romanian soldiers dug in at the ridge overlooking Dragoslavele. If
you ask, they will dim the lights and do a war light and sound show using the diorama. Afterwards,
the backside of the monument offers the same view of the valley that the soldiers had.

Dining
One good terrace in Campulung is Ayelon. Their pizza is nothing special, but otherwise the food is
good enough. Campulung also offers a couple of fast food joints.

Lodging
For a night or two in the area, an interesting alternative to the usual hotel room is the Magura
Complex in quiet Bughea de Sos, 5 kilometers from Campulung. It was founded in the early 20th
century, and little has changed since. The complex offers lodging facilities, a small dining room and
bar, therapeutic mineral baths, and related services. Prices start about $8.00 per bed per night.
Details and directions are available at the Hotel Muscel (which is 800,000 lei per night, but not rec-
ommended) in Campulung.

Craiova

Location
Craiova is located in southwest Romania on the 900 CFR train line and on the Bucharesti-Timisoara
highway about 3 hours west of Bucharest. The population reaches over 300,000, and the city is
worth an overnight stay.

Attractions
The Theodor Aman Art Museum definitely deserves a visit. It is an exquisite French Palace that
was completed in 1907. The museum displays works of art from different periods, including six works
of Brancusi, one of which is the well-known “Sarutul” (The Kiss). The museum is north of the main
square on Calea Unirii and admission is about $0.75. On the eastern side of the central square is
the Prefectura, which displays a memorial plaque in honor of the 25 Craiovans who were killed dur-
ing the 1989 revolution. Inside the Prefectura is a beautiful foyer, gated with ornate marble arches
and stairways. The Filamonica Oltenia (0251 411 284) is close to the Mercur shopping area and
has a first rate orchestra that plays Fridays at 18:30. Craiova has a nice botanical garden within
walking distance of the Hotel Jiul. A short taxi ride away is the Romanescu Park, a hundred hectare
greenspace with a small lake, terraces and trails.
 5

Wallachia

Dining
The best restaurant in Craiova is La Dolce Vita. The restaurant serves excellent Italian food and is
on Str. Carol I near the Calea Bucuresti intersection. A good restaurant for a snack or lunch is El
Greco Pizzerie, which serves good coffee, pizza, salad, bruschetta (recommended), and milk
shakes. El Greco is near the city hall on A.I. Cuza nr. 8. Behind the Prefectura is Mercur, Craiova’s
shopping center. Across from Mercur are several terraces. On Str. Grivita Rosie , behind Mercur, is
another good restaurant Sale & Pepe where the traditional chicken dish with polenta is inexpensive
and delicious.

Lodging
Hotel Jiul (0251 414 166) is a nice and centrally located hotel charging 30 Euro per night, breakfast
included. It is a short taxi ride from the train station. Hotel Central (0251 534 895) is the cheapest
hotel option at 500,000 lei per head. Hotel Parc (0251 417 257) charges 24 Euro for a single and 33
Euro for a double. Golden House (0251 406 270) is the most luxurious choice and charges 69 Euro
for a single and 90 Euro for a double.

Giurgiu

Location
Giurgiu is situated due south of Bucuresti and is the major border crossing for car and rail traffic into
Bulgaria and continuing into Turkey. The simplest way to go to Giurgiu is by maxi-taxi. Maxi-taxis
depart from the Eroii Revolutie Metro station every 30 minutes daily from 7:00 am-8:00 pm. The cost
for a ticket is approximately $2.00 and the ride lasts about an hour. The last maxi-taxi returning to
Bucuresti leaves Giurgiu at 7:30 pm.

Attractions
Although originally considered only a place through which to pass, Giurgiu offers the visitor not only
a fascinating look at Romanian history, but also many opportunities for outdoor activities, dining, and
culture.

Historical Sites: The ruins of the Fortress of Miercea cel Batran, built in the early 1400s, are locat-
ed near the free zone on the main road through the city. In the center of the downtown area, one can
find the Clock Tower, which the Turks originally built as a lookout tower in 1771. The Catedrala
Adormiera Maicii Domnului, built in 1854, has beautiful interior frescos. The cathedral is located
near the city center behind the Romarta Shopping Store. Biserica Erorilor is another church with a
long history and unique architecture; it is beside the hospital, and across from the military base on
the main thoroughfare of the town. The History Museum Muzeul Teohari Antonescu, which was
built in 1840 and renovated in 1977, houses an engaging collection of historical artifacts not only from
the immediate area, but from all of Romania. The Village Museum, a smaller museum located just
outside of town, is also worth a visit. In addition to the above historical sites, visitors may also enjoy
the architecture of the Old Town. The quaint cobblestone streets of this historical neighborhood are
lined with wonderful examples of turn of the century architecture.

Outdoor Activities: Giurgiu offers much to travelers looking for an outdoor adventure. Surrounding
Giurgiu are five pristine forests, considered natural preservation zones. They are ideal for picnick-
ing and hiking. In the Balanoaia Forest, which has many amenities for outdoor activities, campers
can pitch their tents or rent wooden cabins. Along the Danube, those interested in fishing and boat-
ing can find their niche. Although there is nowhere in Giurgiu to rent fishing gear, equipment may be
purchased at the central market without great expense. River and dining cruises can be booked
 6 Volunteer Travel Guide
Wallachia
with advanced notice through the three companies operating out of the Port of Giurgiu. Travelers
wishing to stay within the limits of Girgiu are advised to visit any of the seven well-maintained public
parks, located throughout the city, or the swimming pool, located in the Port area along the Danube
River.

Entertainment: Teatru Valah offers a variety of live performances on most weekends throughout the
year. The Casa de Cultura is excellent for those wishing to take in some art, theater, dancing and
music. Regular exhibitions, seminars, and workshops are presented here regularly and cover a vari-
ety of artistic mediums from poetry to flamenco dancing. The Salonul Artelor is an art gallery fea-
turing local artists and traveling exhibitions.

Dining
Perla, located in the Port and on the Danube, is an expensive but wonderful choice for dining. It
offers spectacular views, good food, and surprisingly good service. Taverna serves reasonably
priced, hearty Italian meals. The restaurant is Italian-owned and also serves pizza, both for take out
and for those dining in. Miorta is the best place in Giurgiu for homemade Romanian food including
excellent sarmale, mamaliga, tochitura, and schnitzel. It is located on Alecsandri Street near the cen-
ter. La Italianul, located in Alee Parc, is by far the best terrace restaurant in Romania. The pizza is
outstanding, the setting beautiful, and the drinks refreshing. Irish Pub on Strada Garii is not quite
Irish, but a relaxing place for light food and drinks. Select is a high-end bar in the center of town with
a nice terrace and average food.

Lodging
There are a number of places to stay in Giurgiu. Steua Dunarii, located on Bd. Mihai Viteazu, is a
two-star hotel and is available at (0246) 217-270. Pulling in one star is Victoria, (0246) 212-569,
located at Strada Garii nr. 1. Motel Prietenia, (0246)-221-971, is located on Str. Prieteniei, nr. 1.
Vlasca (0246) 213-451, is located at Str. Portului nr. 30.

Ramnicu Valcea

Location
Ramnicu Valcea is a medium-sized town nestled in the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains three
hours north of Bucharest. You may reach Valcea from the Autogara Militar located on the outskirts
of Bucharest at the Pacii Metro exit. Buses leave frequently throughout the day, the last bus leav-
ing the station at 19:00.

Attractions
Valcea is home to 120,000 people. A typical Romanian working class city, Valcea still offers many
attractions for the visitor. There is a philharmonic, located on Calea lui Traian (0250 732956) which
holds a concert at 19:00 every Monday from September through June. Valcea also boasts of an art
museum at Str. Antonescu 29 and a history museum at Calea lui Traian 159. Ramnicu Valcea was
also home to writer Anton Pann who wrote the Romanian national anthem and whose childhood
home, at St. Stirbei Voda 18, is now a museum open to the public.

Though possibly the biggest historical attraction in Rm. Valcea is the Village Museum (Muzeul
Satului) that lies at the edge of town on the road towards Calimanesti. The Village Museum is a col-
lection of buildings typical to Valcea County including a schoolhouse, village pub and church. The
museum is run by a kind, older woman full of Oltenian famed hospitality who will give you a person-
alized tour including local legends at no extra charge. It is well worth the visit. A maxi taxi runs con-
 7

Wallachia
tinuously from the center of town towards the Village Museum and can be boarded at Calea Lui
Traian in front of the Seytour restaurant in the north part of town.

Day trips: A short bus or taxi ride west of the city lays Olanesti. Olanesti is famous for its numer-
ous springs (izvor), which are said to cure a myriad of illnesses. Besides the curing waters, Olanesti
is a peaceful place to walk; there are many paths on which you may wander through the woods.
There is also a smorgasbord of mici (Romanian grilled sausage) stands and places to buy cheap
imported plastic knicnicks. A little further west of Valcea is the village of Hurezu. This village is
known throughout Romania for its distinctive pottery decorated with the Hurezu rooster. Hurezu
holds a Ceramics Festival every summer the first weekend of June. Hurezu is also home to the
most well preserved Brancoveanu style monastery a UNESCO World Heritage site from the late
17th century.

Dining
Pizza and Romanian food are the two dining options. Pizzeria Okay, an "upscale" pizza joint offers
both pizza and Romanian fare. It is located in the center of town a short walk from the Hotel Alutus.
Immediately across the street is another "Okay" restaurant Pubs & More. There is no difference in
menu here only the atmosphere is a little less teenager and more smoke (if that's possible). Caddy
corner from the Hotel Alutus is Jet Set, a night club/ restaurant. Here you can order from the univer-
sal Romanian menu of schnitzel and pizza. For more traditional Romanian cuisine go to the Hanul
Haiducilor located in the north side of town on Calea lui Traian. They always have sarmale and por-
tions are plentiful. Right around the corner from the Haiducilor if you have an inkling for dessert is
the Gelateria. They serve enormous desserts of bonifide Italian gelato. The best part about the
place is that the desserts really look like the pictures on the menu.

Lodging
Ramnicu. Valcea has two reputable hotels. The communist style Hotel Alutus is situated in the cen-
ter of town adjacent to the main square on Str. Praporgescu. The newly remodeled Hotel Gemini
sits at the end of a quiet street well marked from the main thoroughfare Calea lui Traian.

Targoviste

Location
Targoviste is 45 kilometers northwest of Bucuresti, Romania’s capital. The slowest, but surest way
to reach Targoviste is to take a Personal train (the slow train), which stops at every station between
the two cities and leaves from Gara de Nord in Bucuresti. Travelers can verify train schedules at the
station. The quickest way to get to and from Targoviste is by maxi-taxi. From Bucuresti, maxi-taxis
leave hourly from the maxi-taxi stop two blocks from Gara de Nord (corner of Stefan Furtuna and
Dinicu Golescu). Returning to Bucuresti, maxi-taxis and buses are available in front of the train sta-
tion and leave every 30-40 minutes.

Attractions
Targoviste is a city rich in history and culture. It stood as the capital of the nation for over 300 years,
claiming home to such residents as Vlad Tepes and Michael the Brave. The city, like the rest of the
country, is making a difficult transition to a free market economy, and has taken great strides to
improve the aesthetics of the city; it has planted over 8,000 flowers along its parks and boulevards,
restored its many ancient churches, and replaced major sidewalks.
 8 Volunteer Travel Guide
Wallachia
Historical sites: The greatest point of interest in Targoviste is certainly the Princely Court and
Castle Ruins. Dracula hunters must put this destination in their travel plans, as it was once the home
of the infamous Vlad Tepes. Today, the site is Targoviste’s biggest and most beautiful park, complete
with a lake and boat rental. Printed guides are available in English and French. From the sunset
tower, one can see the snowcapped Bucegi Mountains. Outside the train station are the military
barracks; this is the place where, on Christmas day 1989, Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena
were tried and executed, and the Revolution was brought to an end. While photography and entry
into the barracks are denied, this spot remains an important historical reminder of the end of the com-
munist regime. The historic old center was designed and built by Italian architects. The area is the
heart of great shopping and restaurants. Three kilometers from the center is the beautiful Dealu
Monastery, dating back to the sixteenth century. It is here that the head of Michael the Brave is kept.
Targoviste also boasts five museums: The History Museum, Art Museum, Police Museum, Writing
Museum, and Printing Museum, which contains Romania’s first printing press. All museums are
located close to one another in the center of the city.

Entertainment: Films are shown at the Theatre Independenti behind the Prefectura. Enjoy a live
production at the Tony Bulandra Theater near the train station. For nightlife, sip on a pint at Blue
Café behind Rafenstein, or at Groove in the Old Center. Art Gallery Pub across from the central
park often has live music. For those with a taste for dancing, the only club worth attending is Rosa,
which is a dollar cab ride on the road towards Bucuresti. Internet cafes are abundant in Targoviste,
including one at Blue Café for those who enjoy a beer while checking their email.

Dining
For a town of its size, Targoviste is graced with several quality dining options. Casa Veche, located
in the Old Center, is a well-designed restaurant specializing in Romanian and Italian cuisine. During
the summer the garden terrace outside is a beautiful place to enjoy a meal. Don Quijote is another
great restaurant with traditional food and a cozy atmosphere. It is also located near the Old Center.
Malex, near the train station, serves traditional Romanian food and also sells the original local art
decorating the walls. Behind the 1 Mai market is Zodiak, another traditional restaurant with reason-
able prices. Pizza You and Me, in spite of its horrible name, has the best pizza and sandwiches in
town. For a change of pace, try Chinese Restaurant, which is owned by a refugee from Tianemin
Square; it is located across from the old center. Mondial is beside central park and serves fast food:
soup, salads, sandwiches, pizza and cakes. Hanul Targoviste, located on the road to Bucaresti near
the center, claims the prize for best traditional food in town.

Lodging
Two major hotels serve travelers in Targoviste. The three-star Hotel Dambovita has rooms overlook-
ing central park. Prices range from $19.00-25.00, and the phone number is (0245) 213-370. Hotel
Valahia is across from the main square. Rooms here cost $17.00-$23.00, and the hotel may be
reached at (0245) 634-491.

Targu Jiu

Location
Targu Jiu is the capital of Gorj County, in the Oltenia region. The city is located about halfway
between Bucaresti and Timisoara, north of Craiova. From the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains,
home of the Horned Viper, comes the Jiu River supplying Targu Jiu with most of its drinking water.
 9

Wallachia

Attractions
Gorj County offers to the traveler monasteries, mountains, museums, famous sculptures, painters,
wildlife, hunting, and caving.

Art and Culture: Targu Jiu is home to 3 world-renowned sculptures by Constantin Brancusi,
who lived in both Romania and France. His Endless Column, found near Erorilor Street, is about
fifty feet tall and made of solid stone six feet thick. In Brancusi Park, at the end of Victoriei Street,
are two of Brancusi’s sculptures. The Kissing Gate emphasizes the bond between man and
woman, and the Table of Silence is dedicated to those who died in WWI. The county history muse-
um Muzeul Judetean de Istorie, the Brancusi Museum, and the Art Museum are all worth a visit.
Romanian blown glass can be found at two places in Targu Jiu. Star Glass S.C., (0253)226-154
and S.C. Euroglass, (0253) 238-350 offer travelers a personal tour of the kilns. Eighty percent of
the glass produced in Targu Jiu is exported to the United States.

Day Trips: Hobita is a village about 15 kilometers from Targu Jiu and contains the house of
Constantin Brancusi, which is now a museum. Between June and August, Eastern European
artists gather here to compete against one another in stone sculpting. All works in-progress and
their final products are open to the public. Buses go from the bus station (near the train station) to
Hobita; departure times are available at the station. Monasteries abound in Gorj County.
Tismana, hidden within the Carpathian Mountains, is a monastery with breathtaking views of the
mountains and is a worthwhile side trip. Hunting in Gorj County is possible for those who obtain
a license trough the Ministry of Agriculture. Summer through the fall is the buck season, and win-
ter is the time to hunt wolf, cerf, deer, and bear. Hunting season, with the exception of fox hunting,
comes to an end in the spring. The river keys of Octet are a pathway to some of Gorj’s magnifi-
cent caves. Polovragi, Woman’s Cave, and Bear’s Cave are but a few.

Dining

Lodging
 10 Volunteer Travel Guide

Transylvania
Easily the best known region in Romania, Transylvania offers travelers the typical Dracula hunting
adventures in locations such as Bran and Sighisoara, but there is much more to the region than a
fabled bloodsucker and his equally intriguing historical counterpart, Vlad Tepes. Transylvania is a
naturally beautiful region in central northwest Romania bordered by the Carpathian mountains and
accounting for approximately one third of Romania's landmass. Much of the region is covered by
Transylvania

beautiful farms, hills, wooded forests, lakes and ancient pine trees, not unlike interior sections of
Maine. In Transylvania, travelers can experience three cultures simultaneously-Romanian,
Hungarian and German. All three languages are spoken in the region (depending on the location),
and it is the most socially diverse region in the country, reflecting its turbulent past. The region offers
limitless opportunities for skiing and hiking, many opportunities to visit old castles, traditional villages,
and is the center of Szekely (Hungarian) culture in Romania.

Beclean Pe Somes

Location
Beclean is nestled in the scenic foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, in the northern part of
Transylvania. It is located about ninety minutes northeast of Cluj, on the road between Dej and
Bistrita. It is also accessible by train on the 400 line.

Attractions
Outdoor activities: The hills and forests surrounding Beclean offer visitors a variety of recreational
activities for all seasons. Amateur skiing is popular with locals in the winter, while forest trails pro-
vide serene landscapes and spectacular views of the town and countryside in the summer.
Swimming, sunbathing, and fishing are popular past-times in the summer, and there are small
snack shops on the river for your convenience. Nearby natural salt-water springs provide a wel-
come respite from minor aches and pains. The quiet, friendly atmosphere of country life, along with
the convenience and courtesy of the modern world make Beclean a nice addition to any travel itiner-
ary.

Art and Culture: Three modern sculptures, representing past, present, and future dominate the
town center. An ancient castle, now the town's House of Culture, hosts numerous local events,
including traditional Romanian dance and music shows. They give visitors a wonderful glimpse of
small-town Romanian life. In addition to acting as the cultural center of the town, the castle has an
intriguing legend, which any English speaking Romanian is happy to share if asked.

Entertainment: A leisurely walk through the lovely town park or a visit to the disco will complete your
experience of Beclean.

Dining
There are several restaurants and cafes in Beclean. At all of them, travelers can find delicious
Romanian fare and wonderful pastries.

Lodging
The beautiful Hotel Somes is the best bet for lodging, although the more adventurous may enjoy try-
ing to arrange a home-stay to experience a bit of true small town life in Romania.
 11

Brasov

Location
Brasov is both a central travel hub and a wonderful tourist city located in the heart of Romania. It is
well connected through the Romanian train system, and travelers should have no trouble using this
means of transport to get to and from Brasov to and from major cities. Bus lines and maxi-taxis are
also an option and most of them leave from outside Brasov's main train station.

Transylvania

Attractions
Town Center: Brasov is a Medieval city with ample charm and much to do. In the center is a wide
cobblestone pedestrian avenue on which many stores are open, and ideal place for shopping. At one
end of the avenue stands the central square, Piata Sfantului. Here the History Museum is located
in the bright yellow council house. At the far end of the square stands the Black Church, one of
Romania's most stunning works of gothic architecture. The church holds odd visiting hours, but the
sign in front will have specific information. The church has an amazing pipe organ, and gives organ
concerts weekly. Concert times are also posted on the signs in front of the church.

Day Trips: Many attractions that surround the city deserve a visit. Ski enthusiasts will enjoy a trip to
Poiana Brasov. Busses to Poiana leave from the corner of Bulevardul Erorilor and Strada Dupa
Ziduri. Buy your ticket in advance from one of the kiosks; round trip costs less than a dollar. In addi-
tion to skiing, Poiana is a great resort area for the traveler wishing to hike or to see a splendid exam-
ple of Romania's wooden churches. Busteni and Predeal are also towns that cater to skiers. While
Predeal is known for better skiing, Busteni has fantastic hiking and is great in the summer as well as
the winter. Train is the easiest form of transport to either city. Expect the trip to Predeal to last 30
minutes, and the trip to Busteni 50 minutes. Bran Castle is another day trip and especially popular
with Dracula enthusiasts. Buses leave to Bran from Brasov's Autogara 2. Fighting tourist crowds
when trying to navigate the castle is common, but well worth it. Don't miss the village museum out-
side the castle, and of course, one can hardly avoid the Dracula-saturated tourist stands directly out-
side the compound. Finally, if there isn't enough time to stay a night in Sinaia, a day trip to the city
is a must. The best attraction of the town are the Peles and Pelesor castles. They are unbelievably
ornate, and each one offers guided tours in English. It is a good idea to visit Sinaia's castles after
Bran because the lavish Peles and Pelesor make Bran look like a quaint cabin.

Dining
Bella Muzica is located on Str. G. Baritu, nr. 2, and is across the street from the Black Church on
Piata Sfatului. The restaurant is a favorite among volunteers and is open for lunch and dinner. Bella
serves traditional Romanian and delicious quasi-Mexican food, and treats each customer to a com-
plimentary shot of Tuica-an indispensable prelude to any good meal served in Romania. Bella is one
of the few restaurants in the country that offers quality vegetarian options on the menu; just ask for
items "fara carne." Customers also may request a music menu and select (free of charge) an album
to be played during the meal. To the right of Bella Muzica a short distance down the street is
Romania's most delicious Gogosi Stand. These hot doughnuts come filled with vanilla, chocolate,
or apple filling. Bistro de l'Arte, located on Piata Enescu, is only 3 minutes from the main square
and a great place to spend an afternoon reading, to come for a light dinner, or to revel late into the
night with friends. The soups are good, the frozen coffee drinks are delicious, the vin fiert (hot wine)
is tasty, and the chocolate fondue is heavenly.
 12 Volunteer Travel Guide

Lodging
The best bet for someone wishing to stay near the center of Brasov is Maria and Grig Bolea's
Guesthouse (0268) 311-962. Maria speaks wonderful English and will pick up guests from the train
station. She is, however, known for being a little pushy, so make sure be direct about what you want.
Maria's offers a secure place to stay, hot showers, tourist information, a washing machine, cooking
facilities, and it is only 8 minutes away from the old center. Maria will also help you to arrange other
visits and home-stays in Bran, Rasnov, Predeal, Sinaia, Sighisoara, and Poiana Brasov. A western
style youth hostel, Kismet Dao Villa (formerly Elvis’) is a 10 minute walk from the center, or about
Transylvania

$1.50 cab ride from the train station at Str. Democratiei #2B, and the phone number is (0268) 514
296 or (0268) 478 930. Representatives are often at the train station as well. The hostel is clean,
has no curfew or checkout time, free laundry service, free drinks and internet.

In spite of Brasov's popularity with foreign tourists, the hotels in the area leave something to be
desired. If staying a short distance from the city is an option, travelers may enjoy accomodations in
Poiana Brasov. The resort town has a number of hotels in much better condition than those in
Brasov.

Bistrita

Location
Bistrita (German Bistritz) is situated in Bistrita-Nasaud County, northeastern Transylvania, near the
Borgo pass on the way to Moldavia. There is a nightly acelerat train from Bucharest (number 1641)
as well as from Bistrita to Bucharest (number 1845). There are also several daily personal (i.e. slow)
trains to and from Cluj-Napoca. For the train schedule see www.cfr.ro. To go most places by train
from Bistrita it is necessary to go through Saratel. Tickets are available at the station or at the Agentie
de Voiaj (Piata Petru Rares 7A, 0263-213938). There are also several direct daily maxi taxis (C & I
Comapany, Orange: 40744-693676, Fixed: 0263-213621) to and from Satu Mare, Botosani,
Suceava, Targu Mures, Cluj-Napoca, Sibiu, Oradea, and Sighisoara. All trains and maxi taxis leave
and arrive at the Bistrita Nord train station

Attractions
Bistrita has several museums. The County Museum (Muzeul Judetean, str. Grigore Balan 19, 0263-
230046) has exhibits on the history of the area as well as local art. The Centrul Judetean Al
Creatiei Populare Bistrita-Nassaud (Bistrita-Nasaud County Center Of Folk Creation, Str. Petru
Rares 1, 0263-212023) is in a former hunting lodge of Nicolae Ceausescu. The Casa de Cultura
George Cosbuc, (str. Albert Berger 10, 0263-211691), is host to many cultural events throughout the
year and hosts classes in performing arts such as singing and dancing. The Saxon Evangelical
Church (0263-214679) in the center of town (Piata Centrala) boasts the highest spire in Romania.
In the summer, services are still conducted in German at 10:00 AM on Sundays. Due to the lack of
heat in the church, services during the other months are held across the street, but at the same time
and in the same language (German). The church also hosts some concerts during the warmer
months.

Cinema Dacia (B-dul Decebal 4, 0263-233148) is Bistrita's only movie theater, showing two different
films each week. Club.net (intersection of Str. Uruslui and B-dul Decebal), and Sigi.net in Piata
Mihai Emenescu offer internet and games for about 15,000 lei an hour. Clubnet has no time inter-
vals (that is you do not have to pay in increments of ½ hour). There are also various others internet
cafés scattered throughout the city. Most open at 10:00 AM.
 13

For dancing and other nighttime fun Discoteca Metropolis (str Mihai Emenescu 1-4, 0263-233861)
is the place to go for a disco, restaurant, pool (billiards), bar, and even a bingo hall.
Running through the south end of town near the river is a park, with a playground at each end, built
by the Rotary Club. On the east end of town, just east of the army base, is a dam (actually a man
made lake) with a swinging bridge and some trails. It is a nice place to walk to during summer
evenings, though visitors should be prepared for mosquitoes. In the summer, the Codrisor Strand
swimming pool (near the Hotel Codrisor) offers swimming between the hours of 9:00 AM and 7:00
PM. The price is is about $0.50.

Transylvania

Dining
Castelano (Blvd-ul Republicii & Piata Petru Rares) has many good, reasonably priced entrees.
Corida (Piata Centrala, 0263-230627) serves Mediterranean food. Crama Veche, adjoined to the
Casa de Cultura (0263-218047) offers traditional Romanian food and drink at reasonable prices.
During the summer they have pleasant seating outdoors on the terrace where they serve pizza, chick-
en, and mici. Four Seasons (str Ursului 14, 0744-102356) has pizza, chicken, etc., and is near the
intersection of Str. Ursului and B-dul Decebal.

For those who want fast food, Popeye (Liviu Rebraunu 36, 0263-231508) has hamburgers, hot dogs
(Crenwusti), and fish and chicken sandwiches. Two fast food restaurants adorn opposite sides of the
intersection of str. Urusului and B-dul Decebal. The one directly across from Four Seasons has very
good chicken and kebobs, and is recommended.

The old-fashioned types who prefer to cook for themselves will find ABC's throughout Bistrita, as well
as two grocery stores: Profi is on Piata Mihai Emenescu, and Artima is at the train station. Of course
there are also several markets: one on the corner of B-dul Decebal & str. Ursului, one at the train sta-
tion, and the Russian Market east of town on Calea Moldovei behind the Ozana gas station.

Lodging
Hotel Bistrita (Piata Rares 2, 0263-231205) is centrally located. Hotel Corona de Aur (Piata Rares
4, 0263-232470) is centrally located, and is the hotel where Jonathan Harker stayed overnight before
setting out to Dracula's Castle. Hotel Codrisor (Codrisor 28, 0263-233814) and Hotel Cora
(Codrisor 23, 0263-233873) lie on the south end of town (south of the river) and near the swimming
pool.

The Hotel Castle Dracula in Piatra Fântanele (0263/265192) is about an hour east of Bistrita. It is
a hotel built at the same place Bram Stoker put Dracula's castle in his famous book and goes by the
same name (Dracula). The web site is www.draculaland.bn.ro/.

Cluj Napoca

Location
Cluj is located in the northwestern region of Transylvania. Though it is a considerable distance from
Bucaresti, it is well connected by both train and bus. Trains also connect Cluj to other areas of
Eastern Europe, including Budapest and Zagreb.

Although the main parts of Cluj are walkable, there are many buses and trams that cover the city.
Buy tickets at kiosks near the stops. Two reliable taxi services are Diesel (dial 947; prefix 0264 if on
a cell phone) and Rapid (948).
 14 Volunteer Travel Guide

Attractions
Cluj is a major city filled with art and culture. Because it is
a university city, a wide array of entertainment is available,
including school theatrical and musical productions and a
number of movie theaters. In the city center, buildings are
plastered with announcements and show times for enter-
tainment. In the central square, Piata Unirii, St. Michael's
Church dominates the scene. The church is a beautiful
Transylvania

example of gothic architecture. At the southwest corner of

the square is the Continental Hotel, houses a travel agency,
a good place to find maps and recommendations about
exploring Cluj. To the east of the square, next to the Hotel
Melody, is a wonderful art museum. To the west, about one
and a half blocks down Strada Memorandumului is an
equally interesting Ethnographic Museum. Both muse-
ums are closed on Mondays. At the Opera House, located
on Piata Stefan Cel Mare, posters display show times and
give the opportunity for a classy evening out. An amazing
botanical garden sits southwest of the center along Strada
Republicii. For a small admission fee the gardens offer a
getaway into the woods where it is easy to forget that one is
but a few steps from the city. The greenhouses are reminis-
cent of a prehistoric jungle.

In the month of May, it seems Cluj is one big festival. Then, in the fall, Cluj hosts the famed Ursus
Beer Festival. The Transylvania International Film Festival is around the beginning of June each
year; information is available at www.tiff.ro. For more information about these festivals or other attrac-
tions in Cluj Napoca look on www.sapteseri.ro (English and Romanian) or www.clujinfo.ro (Romanian
only).

Dining
Insomnia is a cozy coffee house with a laid back atmosphere, located on Strada Iuliu Maniu, num-
ber 4. Shanghai, at 98 Strada Constantin Brancusi serves the best Chinese food in town. And if
falafel sounds tasty, Fahid on Strada Napoca, number 6, offers something other than the usual
mamaliga and snitzel. For traditional Romanian food and a pleasant atmosphere, Roata on
Alexandru Cuira is a good bet. And to top off a good meal, Café Amadeus Mozart at Strada Pavlov
number 7 has great desserts, coffees, and teas.

Lodging
Hotel Central Melody is located in the old center, across from St. Michael's Church. The Hotel has
recently been remodeled inside, and while the single rooms are a little cramped, the doubles are quite
comfortable. Melody is unbeatable for location and comfort. On the other side of the square looms
the Hotel Continental. It is slightly cheaper than the Melody, but with all the ambiance of an institu-
tion. Lodging here is best for those restricted by their wallets, and there is no guarantee of a good
night's sleep. There is one known youth hostel in Cluj, the Retro Youth Hostel (0240-264-450-452),
located at Str. Potaissa 13, two blocks south of Piata Unirii on Str. Universitatii, then to the right. It is
a Hostelling International (HI) member and offers beds at 10 Euro a night in shared rooms, 13 Euro
per bed for a triple room and private rooms.
 15

Deva

Location
Deva is located in southwestern Transylvania along the 200 train line going to Budapest, Prague, and
the rest of Western Europe. It is about two hours by train from Timisoara, two hours from Sibiu, an
hour-and-a-half from Alba Iulia, and only five hours from Budapest.

Attractions

Transylvania
Deva is a city with 90,000 people, and it is very easy to get around on foot because of its relatively
small size. A Romanian citadel sits atop one of the hills in the old section of the city and has a large
Hollywood-style sign reading "DEVA." From the train station and past McDonald's, the main street
leads into the center of the city. Heading toward the citadel from the center, you can see the town's
colorful architecture and the park, which is at the base of the hill. Statues depicting historical figures
and the Romanian Olympic Gymnastics Team Facility are located to the right of the park.
Continuing up into the hills, to the left of the park are examples of Romanian village life. Continuing
upwards one can also hike and see the view of the city from the citadel. Toward the new center is a
cinema, a variety of shops and grocery stores, and many good second hand shops. Retezat
National Park Headquarters are located in Deva, although the park is actually southwest of the city.

Dining
All restaurants in Deva are created equally. Most provide traditional Romanian food and pizza.
McDonalds claims a spot near the train station. Each choice is as good as the next.

Lodging

Fagaras

Location
Fagaras is located along the Olt River, about half way between Brasov and Sibiu.

Attractions
Fagaras is a small Romanian town with a wonderfully peaceful setting and beautiful views of the
Fagaras Mountains. From the train station, take a taxi into the center. Here you will see Fagaras
Castle dating to the fifteenth century. The fairytale-like castle is complete with a moat, and during
the day visitors can tour the castle, visit the museum, and eat palate-pleasing Romanian cuisine in
the Castle's restaurant. During the communist period, the restaurant portion of the castle served as
a prison for intellectuals who were a threat to Ceausescu's plan of a communist Romania. From the
town center, a hill is in sight that in summertime is a beautiful area for hiking. At the top of the hill is
an old monastery as well as flowering fields perfect for picnicking. Handicrafts typical in
Transylvania are available at Fundatia Culturala Negru Voda, a Romanian NGO located in the city
center. This organization is enthusiastic about meeting foreigners and can offer a lot of information
to tourists. Massage is available at many places in town for about $3-5.00. For a night out, try D&C,
located on the boulevard, or go dancing at House Club in the town center.

Day Trips: Fagaras is a wonderful starting point for day trips to different villages in the surrounding
areas. At Sambata de Jos, about 15 kilometers away, there are horse stables where you can begin
a trail ride. About ten kilometers farther along the same road is Sambata de Sus, with a breathtak-
ing monastery at the base of the mountains. Tours of the monastery are available and outside the
wooden gates of the entrance are a number of vendors selling local handicrafts. This is a great base
 16 Volunteer Travel Guide

camp for a backpacking or camping trip in the mountains, where hiking trails and cabins abound. Five
kilometers from Fagaras is the town of Beclean (not to be confused with Beclean pe Somes in north-
ern Transylvania). There, you can ride horses for $3.50 per hour, or go fishing in the lakes. Beclean
has a restaurant and a hotel, and taxis from Fagaras are more than willing to make the trip. Taxis
are also willing to take travelers to Dejani, a beautiful wooden monastery surrounded by the Fagaras
Mountains. It is about 28 kilometers away from Fagaras.

Dining
Transylvania

On the main boulevard stands the Boulevard Crama. There, the waiters wear traditional Romanian
clothes and serve Romanian food. It is also a great place for an evening drink.

There are not a great number of bars in the town. D&C is an adequate night spot located on the main
boulevard, one block from the town center. For cheese with your wine, the House Club in the town
center offers the best in tacky a small town disco . It is the epitome of smokey bars and bad Euro
music on the dance floor. Try it for the true experience of the small-town Romania night out.

Lodging
There are two hotels in Fagaras. Hotel Flora is a bed and breakfast-style hotel charging about
$10.00 for a single. Hotel Montana is located near the train station and slightly more expensive than
Flora.

Ileanda

Location
Ileanda is located in Salaj county in the northwest of the country. It is 24 kilometers from Dej, 30 kilo-
meters from Baia Mare, and 100 kilometers from Cluj. It sits on the major train line between Cluj and
Baia Mare, and there are many trains that stop there daily. To travel from Ileanda to any of the sur-
rounding 13 villages, hitchhiking is the best option. There is a bus between some of the villages run-
ning twice a day Monday through Saturday.

Attractions
The village of Ileanda and its surrounding 13 villages are a good stop for any traveler wanting to expe-
rience the rural village life in Romania. The group of villages has a total of 2,674 inhabitants and cov-
ers 87 square kilometers. The terrain around the villages is hilly and the Somes River winds through
the valley; it is a very picturesque region. The primary occupations are the cultivation of fruit and the
raising of livestock.

The Center for Local Development of Ileanda has created a list of 17 hikes in the region, which
take the hiker through caves, chestnut forests, and springs. To attain the list of the hikes, contact the
AGAPIS Foundation at www.agapis@xnet.ro or (0722)-889-951. Local English speaking guides
can be found in town to accompany visitors. There are seven traditional wooden churches sur-
rounding Ileanda. One is located in Ileanda and is only a ten-minute walk from the train station. The
village of Bizusa, 2 kilometers from Ileanda, is known for its natural springs.

Dining
Ileanda has a number of grocery stores and pastry shops, but only one restaurant and one pub. The
restaurant serves Romanian cuisine.
 17

Lodging
There are currently seven households in Ileanda that are certified by the Ministry of Tourism. These
pensions have a total of 24 beds. There are other unauthorized pensions as well. The average price
per person per night is $14.00, and this includes all meals. Some pension owners have cars and can
drive guests to different destinations for a small fee. For more information contact the AGAPIS
Foundation (see above)

Transylvania
Miclosoara
Not all Counts in Romania are fictional villains (i.e. Dracula). Miclosoara is not a place the western
traveler is likely to find in guide books. It is a village of only 250 people about 85 kilometers north of
Brasov. It is the kind of place with more cows, horses, and oxen than people. Yet despite its seem-
ing obscurity, the village deserves a visit from any sojourner who seeks truly distinctive destinations
and experiences. The attraction to see in Miclosoara is an ancient Transylvanian castle owned by
a living Count who has made it his life's work to restore his family's lands, properties, and legacy.

Inhabited exclusively by Hungarians, Miclosoara dates back to at least the 13th century. It is a farm-
ing community with plenty of cattle and chicken. But there are no tractors, just horse drawn imple-
ments and wagons. The Count's family is the Kalnoky family one of the oldest in Transylvania.
Before the rise of Communism, the Kalnoky's owned large sections of land in Miclosoara as well as
in villages to the north and south. The castles currently being restored were built in the 1690's. All
of this land and the two castles in which the family resided were confiscated by the communists 50
years ago.

When their properties were taken, the Kalnoky family had to leave everything they owned and leave
Romania within 24 hours. They dispersed to the west, first to Germany where the Count's grand-
mother ran a guest house in Nuremberg in 1946, then to the United States, where the present Count
was born. His father moved the family back to Germany in the 1970's and became head of IBM for
Eastern Europe. The Count grew up mostly in France, where his sister still lives; his brother now
lives in Berlin.

Fascinated by his roots, the Count visited Transylvania for the first time in 1987 and visited what he
could of his family's prior holdings (centuries of documentation were available to him). He vowed to
move back when possible. Two years later, after the Revolution and fall of communism, he and his
wife moved to Bucharest, where he ran a pharmaceutical company for several years. Meanwhile he
navigated through the tortuous waters of reclaiming his family holdings in Transylvania. He decided
to dedicate himself to restoring the properties to their original 17th century condition, a task that he
expects will take his lifetime, and perhaps some of his three young sons' also.

The restoration is compelling as a cultural project. Much of the house was of Renaissance design, lit-
erally covered over by the communists. The Count has hired archeologists and art historians as well
as architects to review every centimeter of the building; he has family archives that describe the prop-
erty as it was in the 17th century. To an untutored eye, he is proceeding as would a professional
restorer (by training he is a veterinarian!).

To help finance the restoration, the Count decided he would restore some old houses and start an
up-scale inn. The inn is arguably one of the most charming in the world and resembles a great New
England inn with an excellent dining room where guests can take three meals a day. This is where
 18 Volunteer Travel Guide

any traveler must stay, and though the price is high by Romanian standards (about $75 per night,
three meals and wine included), it is well worth the money and includes three meals a day with wine
included.

The Count himself lives at another house he restored in a nearby village, beside the family's other
castle. His full name is Tibor Kalnoky, and he is an extremely cultivated, interesting man, who speaks
several languages fluently (including English). He often takes guest through the castles himself and
treats them royally. To make arrangements contact the Count by fax at (0267)374-602 or e-mail at
Transylvania

k@transylvaniacastle.com.

Miercurea Ciuc

Location
Ciuc is located about 2 hours north of Brasov by train in the Carpathian/Ciuc Basin. While Ciuc lies
on one of the country's main train lines and is easy to get to from Brasov, it is more difficult to go from
Ciuc to Brasov. Most trains traveling south pass through Ciuc in the evening or during the night.
There is a slow bus traveling from Ciuc to Brasov at about 11:45 am, and maxi-taxis travel to Targu
Mures stopping at destinations such as Odorheiu Secuiesc and Sovata.

Getting around: Most taxis are in Ciuc are reliable. The three best places to find taxis are in front of
the train station, on the main square (Piata Libertatii), and beside the smaller square next to the
Tulipan shopping center.

Attractions
Miercurea Ciuc, Ciuc for short, is a small but
up-and-coming city in eastern Transylvania.
Known throughout Romania as the coldest
city in the country due to its annual average
temperature of six degrees Celsius and its
150 frosty days each year, Ciuc is better
avoided in the winter when temperatures can
dip down to -35 Celsius. In the spring and
summer, however, the city comes alive with
the Pentecostal Pilgrimage to Sumuleu
Monastery and frequent spring and sum-
mer festivals overflowing with the local Ciuc
Beer, talented folk dancers, and great local
bands.

Ciuc has a rich history, and although it passed hands several times between Romania and Hungary
since the 1400s, the city remains about 90% Hungarian today and is a center for Hungarian Szekler
(Szekely) culture. Here, the pastoral Hungarian culture has been preserved to such an extent that
even Hungarian tourists continue to travel to Harghita County to witness this traditional lifestyle.

Ciuc offers easy scenic hikes from the city's center into the nearby hills. A panoramic view of the
Ciuc Basin and the surrounding Harghita Mountains is a one of two hour walk going from the city's
center to the top of Sumuleu Mare, the larger of the two small "mountains" immediately next to the
city. Along the way, is the Sumuleu Monastery, a small mineral spring, and a couple of smaller
churches. Before the tree-line is the amphitheater, which hosts the Pentecostal mass for hundreds
 19

of thousands of pilgrims at the end of May. The metal lookout tower on the top of Sumuleu Mare is
a popular destination for local youths, who will amaze visitors by climbing the frightening structure
from its outside. On the way down the hill, there is split off to the right of the amphitheater that goes
through suburbs Ciobateni and Sumuleu which display real village culture of the area, including
some traditional Szekler gates. For hikes farther into the Harghita range it is best to keep in mind
that this is one of the few places in Europe where bears, boars, and lynxes continue to roam.

Those more interested in the shorter walks of the city tour, the 17th century Miko Citadel across from

Transylvania
the yellow baroque City Hall, at Str. Gh. Doja 2 is a popular destination. Inside the citadel is a muse-
um of traditional Szekler life. Outside is an open-air museum of traditional houses and gates, and
the local prison is across the remains of the citadel's moat. During the winter, Ciuc is a base for ski-
ing in the Harghita Mountains.

Across from the City Hall sits Ciuc's most picturesque Romanian Orthodox Church. Two newly
rebuilt Catholic churches stand at either end of the main boulevard, and the county government build-
ing stands between the two.

A good location for clubbing is Ami. It is slightly dirtier than other discos, but charges no cover and
is popular with university youth. A truer disco feel is a short taxi ride over the train tracks to Club
Flashdance, a two-level club that bustles on the weekends. Across the street is Ciuc's Club 69, a
popular strip club.

Dining
Transylvania Rozmarin, at the corner of Str. Gal Sandor and Str. Petoffi, serves excellent tradition-
al food at a low price. Around the corner stands Renegade Pizza. Pizza Plusz, on Piata Majlath,
overlooking the park, serves pizza with mozzarella cheese (a novelty in Romania). New York Pizza
and the deli next door serve reasonably priced fast food. In the summer New York Pizza is a great
location for people-watching as well, as it is located on a pedestrian street. About 10 minutes from
the center is the impressive Gosser Bar, offering incredible bread bowl soups and good pizza.
Traditional food can be found at Hotel Fenyo's restaurant with slightly higher prices.

Ciuc also has a number of bars and cafés. Saloon Rodeo is the newest, largest and most popular
option. It boasts a Western interior, live music, and the best pool table in town. Across the street
stands Tiljos, Hungarian for "forbidden," where you can get your fill of Ciuc beer. Around the corner
is the bohemian Bahia Blue Tea House, which caters to a younger crowd. Here there is a large col-
lection of tea, as well as beer, coffee, and other drinks. All bars serve the Hungarian national drink,
Unicum, a more expensive concoction of liquid evil, with hints of anis. Its slightly friendlier and less
expensive cousin, Hubertus, suffices for people with bold taste buds.

Lodging
Accommodations are surprisingly upscale in Ciuc. There are two nice three-star hotels; the Hotel
Fenyo (0266- 311-493) near the citadel, and the new Hotel Park (0266-313-833,
office@parkhotel.ro), on Str. Szek about 2 kilometers north of the city center. Casa Lazarus, near
the Culture House on Str. Petoffi, is the only bargain option. The clean rooms are newly renovated,
and come only in quads. The set price is about $6 per person, breakfast not included. For reserva-
tions call 0722-953-531. The manager speaks only Hungarian, German, and Romanian.
 20 Volunteer Travel Guide

Ordorheiu Secuiesc

Location
Ordorheiu Secuiesc is located west of Miercurea Ciuc and just north of Sighisoara. Coming to
Odorheiu Secuiesc from Ciuc is easiest by bus or maxi taxi. If coming from Sighisoara, a personal
train or a taxi (significantly more expensive) is the best option.

Attractions
Transylvania

Ordorheiu Secuiesc is a picturesque town of 35,000 located in the heart of Transylvania. With a 97%
Szekely Hungarian population, the city differs greatly from others in Romania. Ordorheiu Secuiesc
has survived Romania's turbulent history relatively intact; the city has spent a great deal of time and
money preserving their historical buildings, and it shows. Many beautiful buildings, such as the
Tamasi Aron Gimnazium, are older than the United States, but still in wonderful condition.
Ordorheiu Secuiesc has a booming economy and the money within the community has helped to cre-
ate a clean, well-maintained town.

The area is perfect for hiking. Travelers can hike to the top of the surrounding hills and get a won-
derful view of the city. Volcano Rock, past the military base, landed in the town centuries ago from
the now-dormant Harghita Mountain, and is a good hiking destination. Szejke Spa can help to relieve
the stress of any journey. The spa's blind masseuse is famous because he uses his sense of touch
to erase his clients' aches and tension.

There are three major fairs that occur annually in the town. The Craftsmen's Market in June brings
local artisans. The Leisure and Tourism Fair during the first week of May features businesses relat-
ed to tourism from all over Romania and Eastern Europe. Finally, the trade-show style October Fair
provides a forum for businesses in the area to advertise their services.

The nearby Harghita Spa has ski slopes and lifts for those who enjoy winter sports; it offers walking
and cycling tours to summer travelers. In town, the Tea Pub at the Youth Foundation Forum of
Ordorheiu has an English discussion class that meets Tuesdays at 7:00 pm. Stop by to converse
with local youth, and you will be served with a free cup of tea. If seeking entertainment outside of
Ordorheiu Secuiesc, the local visitor's bureau TourInfo (www.tourinfo.ro) is located in the center of the
city. They provide information on tours to nearby villages, such as Corund, to see local artisans at
work.

Dining
Pethos Etterem on Rakoczi Street, Hotel Tarnava Etterem, located in the hotel on Primariei Street,
and Pizza 21 on Bethlen Gabor Street are all highly recommended. Each has a pleasant atmos-
phere. The staff at Pethos has an English language menu and is very good at understanding hand
gestures. The fried trout, grilled chicken, and the chef's special are the preferred dishes at Pethos.
The Hotel Tarnava Etterem has a serving staff that speaks English, and serves a delicious Chicken
Paprika with a side dish of polenta. Pizza 21 has some the excellent pizza and pasta dishes at a very
low price.

Lodging
The Hotel Tarnava is the city's only hotel. It is located in the center, and although it has three stars
and is newly renovated, it is still moderately priced. The hotel offers more amenities than most
Romanian hotels, including non-smoking rooms, sauna, Jacuzzi, Internet service, fitness room, and
laundry services. Their website (www.kukullo.ro) shows prices and lets travelers make reservations.
 21

Sebes

Location
Sebes is a lovely town of about 35,000 people and is fifty miles southwest of Cluj Napoca. There is
no train line in Sebes, but buses and maxi taxis travel through the city regularly between Cluj and
Alba Iulia. Dacos bus line is the most frequent; schedules are available at www.dacos.com.ro and
the contact numbers are (0264) 406-631 and (0744) 551-902

Transylvania

Attractions
Originally founded as Mulbach by German-Saxons, Sebes is proud to be "one of the seven-German
cities" of Romania. Around town one will notice that nearly every street sign is accompanied with its
German equivalent. Over the past four years Sebes has dramatically renovated its old town (centru)
by narrowing the main street to increase pedestrian traffic and by landscaping its city hall park. While
in Sebes, a visit to the enormous Evangelical church is a must; it is open daily between 12:00 and
3:00. Inside the church is a fascinating timeline displaying how the church looked in the 1200's, then
in the centuries thereafter until its final completion only 100 years ago. In front of the church is the
old town. A 600-year-old medieval wall surrounds it. Adventurous types may walk around the
remains of the wall, which leads to the Turnul Studentilor and Turnul Octogonal (Students' Tower,
Octagon Tower).

Dining
Although Sebes is a wealthy town, it has no restaurants excepting a few kiosks and kebab stands.
There is, however, the supermarket Ecostar, which has everything from peanut butter to Parmesan
cheese, both rarities in Romania. Five kilometers south of Sebes is the German village Petresti,
which has two surprisingly good restaurants. Casa Simi serves Romanian-style cuisine and has a
nice garden terrace open in the summer, and Zorba Grecul has a warm atmosphere and excellent
Greek food.

Lodging
There are no places to stay on a volunteer's budget, but there is a lovely ranch-style hotel about 5
km west of Sebes (towards Deva) called Lutch 2000. Though exotic and full of emu's, it is best avoid-
ed Saturday nights in the summer when the Manele music from wedding parties will serenade you
until the break of dawn.

Sibiu

Location
Sibiu is located in the center of Romania, between Timisoara and Brasov. Although Sibiu is a major
Romanian city, it is not particularly well connected to Bucuresti by train. It is, however, connected to
Cluj and Oradea by the brand new "Blue Arrow." Extensive bus and maxi taxi services are available
to and from the city. Most busses leave from the autogara, which is located beside the main train sta-
tion.

Sibiu is a wonderful city for the pedestrian. If the weather is good, it is pleasant to walk through the
streets and catch an eyeful of the German architecture, Many streets around Piata Mare are closed
to traffic. If however, you want a taxi, reliable ones are Pronto, Comis (phone number 942; 0269 pre-
fix on cell phones), and Negoiu (953). Avoid Cinemar taxis at all costs, they will charge 50,000 lei/km,
almost ten times as much as others.
 22 Volunteer Travel Guide

Attractions
Sibiu is a beautiful city located near the Fagaras Mountains. The city has a great deal of German
influence, evident in the architecture found in the city center, and offers a wide selection of art and
culture. The Museum of Traditional Civilization, a short taxi-ride from the center, is a beautiful out-
door park and ethnographic museum, well worth a visit. The Sibiu Philharmonic performs every
Thursday night at 7:00 pm at the Cercul Militar. During the summer, the Evangelical Church holds
organ concerts on Wednesdays at 6:00 pm.
Transylvania

One of the best forms of distraction in Sibiu is simply wandering. The old center's pedestrian street
stretches from Hotel Boulevard to Piata Mare, and is a great place for shopping and dining. In the
summer, restaurants set up small beer gardens on the street, allowing passers-by to stop and enjoy
a cold drink outside. Climbing the Clock Tower at the far corner of Piata Mare is a must. While it
doesn't appear very tall, the panoramic views offered by the tower are amazing. Off the main pedes-
trian drag are many historical buildings, quaint cobblestone streets, beautiful old churches, and inter-
esting shops.

There are several wonderful festivals in

Sibiu. The city hosts the Medieval Festival
in mid-late August, and the Pottery
Festival in early September. The city web
site http://www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm has
more specific information. Sibiu is also the
proud host of the ASTRA Film Festival,
which shows a variety of documentary and
anthropological films biennially, in October
on even numbered years; information is
available at www.astrafilm.ro.

For standard entertainment, Sibiu offers

three cinemas. The newest and best is
Cinema Arta, about a 15 minute walk from town center. Cinema Tineretului on Str. Alexandru
Odobescu near Piata Mica is interesting because patrons watch films from sofas and armchairs
instead of stardard movie theater seats. Cinema Pacea is on the main street Str. Nicolae Balcescu,
but is low quality somewhat dirty.

Dining
La Dolce Vita on Strada Luptei requires a cab ride, but the authentic Italian food deserves the effort.
Michelangelo's also serves good Italian and has a nice atmosphere, but unfortunately tends to
become very smoky in the evenings. Pizzeria Unicum on the main pedestrian boulevard serves
amazing thin crust pizza with real tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese at a cheap price. Sibiu
Vechi is the best bet for traditional Romanian dining experience. Romanian dishes are served by
waiters in traditional garb among traditional Romanian décor while Romanian music plays in the
background. For the less courageous, McDonald's is located on the edge of town and requires a
cab ride. The New Yorker Grill, located just southwest of the old center, serves great American food.
For a bit more than you'd pay in other restaurants, you can get a peppercorn stake, delicious grilled
veggies, pastas, and pizzas. Its banana split is incredible for dessert.

Drinks and desserts are the order of the day at one of Sibiu's many bars and cafes. Perla, on Piata
Mare, and Cofetaria Hotel Bulevard have good espresso and tasty desserts. Art Café, on Strada
 23

Filarmonicii, is usually crowded and very smokey, but a good bet if visiting the Orchestra Hall, locat-
ed directly above. Music Planet offers karaoke gurus a chance to belt out a song on Wednesday
and Thursday nights. It is located on Strade G. Magheru, on the way to the Gara from Piata Mare.
La Turn, conveniently located on Piata Mare, is pricey, but has a comfortable English pub atmos-
phere, a fabulous outdoor terrace (though it can be difficult to get the attention of the server), and
Guinness on tap. For more of a club-scene, Club Chill-Out is located off Piata Mare in an under-
ground cellar. Ciao, the restaurant located above Club Chill-Out, serves amazing Italian food; follow
the signs advertising pizza to the side entrance.

Transylvania

Lodging
Sibiu has no shortage of hotels. Highly recommended, if you can afford it, is the Hotel Imparatulor
Romanilor. It is located on Str. Balcescu, a pedestrian street in historic downtown only seconds from
Piata Mare. The building is truly picturesque, and breakfast is included in the price. For a more
American-style hotel, and also expensive, is the Hotel Continental. Clean, recently remodeled
rooms, and a great reception lounge and restaurant make this a very comfortable place to stay.
Slightly dreary, but much cheaper, is the Hotel Boulevard. The Boulevard is at the end of the main
pedestrian boulevard in the old center, and has a friendly reception staff. The cheapest option is to
go with one of the many pensions located throughout Sibiu. One good example of these is the Hotel
Podul Minciunilor (0269 217 259); it is about five minutes walking from Piata Mica, down str. Ocnei
and to the left on Str. Azilului, nr. 1. The official Sibiu website, http://www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm, has
lists of these bed-and-breakfast style inns among other useful information.

Sighisoara

Location
Sighisoara is located west of Brasov, and is well connected by rail. Trains traveling on the 300 line
between Bucuresti and Oradea stop in Sighisoara, making it easy to travel to and from major cities
such as Ploiesti, Brasov, and Cluj.

Attractions
Sighisoara is one of the best-preserved walled
cities in Romania. The city is pleasing to the eye
and a must for travelers who want a vision of how
Romania looked before the Communist era. At
the end of July, Sighisoara holds an enormous
Medieval Festival that attracts visitors from all
over Romania and foreign travelers as well.
Spring and summer are the best times to visit
when the city hosts a number of events popular
with tourists. During this time, there is a great
deal of activity in the main square such as artisan
fairs, traditional dance exhibitions, and local the-
ater. Sighisoara is huge draw for Dracula-
hunters because it was here that the infamous
Vlad Tepes, "Vlad the Impaler," was born. Vlad
Tepes’ birthplace is just a few steps away from
the clock tower and is now a restaurant. The tiny
Arms Room, located off the main square beside the clock tower, is a single dungeon-like room with
photos and explanations (Romanian and English) of various weapons. The clock tower, also off the
 24 Volunteer Travel Guide

main square, offers terrific views to anyone prepared to climb to the top.

At first glance, Sighisoara seems like a city that can be seen in a single day: many tourists see the \
well known sights and are ready to move on. Travelers who are willing to dig a little deeper, though,
would be well advised to spend a few days in Sighisoara. In addition to the typical tourist destina-
tions, surprises wait around each corner if one only explores a little. Walks through the narrow alleys,
beautiful rolling hills, and along the walls of the city reward participants with serene scenery and inter-
esting landmarks. Near the old center, the trip to the Church on the Hill is a nice shaded retreat,
Transylvania

and the German Cemetery just next to the church is also an interesting stop. Outside the city, a wan-
der through provincial agricultural villages, or a climb into hills where flocks of sheep graze can be
an interesting way to spend a morning or an afternoon.

Dining
There are a number of places to dine in the old center. Vlad Tepes's birthplace houses the
Restaurantul Cetatea, which has unbeatable ambiance and moderately priced Romanian food.
Pizzeria Perla, on Piata Oberth, has the best pizza in Sighisoara. Unless Pizzeria Perla is too
packed, skip P&I, the café located next door. While their desserts look delicious, they taste terrible,
and the wait staff is slow and unaccommodating. Hermes Fast Food, located on the main street,
has cheap burgers and sandwiches that will fill you up. The city market is on Tarnavei, which is a
continuation of Libertatii, offers fresh vegetables and watermelon in the summer. Gogosi stands sur-
rounding the market sell excellent warm, chocolate-filled doughnuts.

Lodging
Petronela and Marinela Kula's Family Bed and Breakfast is on 40 Tamplarilor Street, a great loca-
tion in old town Sighisoara. The family is very hospitable and Petronela speaks very good English.
In addition to providing private rooms, bathrooms, laundry, guest lounge, and a well-equipped
kitchen, the family will also offers home cooked meals (for an extra fee), transportation to and from
the train, and will arrange tours around local villages. The Bed and Breakfast may be reached at
(0265) 777 907 or (0724) 596 312. Another good option is the Hotel Poenita. Located a bit outside
the city, this small inn offers beautiful rooms at moderate prices, which include made-to-order break-
fasts and the use of a small swimming pool. The pub-like restaurant in the hotel serves excellent
Romanian food at slightly above-average prices. If staying at the Poenita, expect a Romanian wake-
up call at sunrise when shepherds and goat herders lead the flocks through the street on their way
to graze in the hills.

Sinaia

Location
Sinaia is located a short distance south of Brasov, in the Prahova Valley. Maxi taxis leave from
Ploiesti every 30 minutes from in front of Gara de Vest to Sinaia. From Brasov, maxi taxis leave for
Sinaia every 30-60 minutes in front of the train station. Maxi taxis from Sinaia to Ploiesti and Brasov
leave every 30 minutes from the train station. Maxi taxis to Bucuresti and Targu Mures leave every
hour. Most trains along the line from Bucuresti to Brasov stop at Sinaia, as well.

Attractions
Sinaia has a beautiful location in the Prahova Valley and is a hot tourist spot, especially in the sum-
mer. There are great hiking trails for those who enjoy the outdoors. The hike to Poiana Stanii offers
views of Sinaia and Busteni from the Franz Josef lookout point. Follow the white signs with the blue
stripes. Visitors to Sinaia should not miss the Peles and Pelesor Castles. More like palaces than
 25

castles, the two structures are immaculately preserved and maintained and rival any western edifice
in grandeur. Guided tours are given in a number of languages, including English, and are mandato-
ry for those who wish to see the inside of the two buildings. Travelers who are turned off by the idea
of guided tours have nothing to fear; the guides are extremely friendly and will give as much or as lit-
tle information as is desired.

People shopping for souvenirs won't have any trouble finding them in Sinaia. Magazin Carpati on
the main boulevard has a small selection of high quality, high priced souvenirs. A better option is to

Transylvania
visit the kiosks on the path to Peles Castle. Here are very nice Romanian souvenirs such as wool
sweaters, tablecloths, paintings, carvings, and lace work, but expect to battle your way through the
aggressive sales people. The best bet for souvenirs are the stalls along the road to Brasov, just out-
side of the city. Here, you will find the largest variety of souvenirs at slightly better prices.

Dining
Across from Magazin Carpati on Blvd. Carol I stands Restaurant Bucegi, serving excellent tradition-
al Romanian food and wild game. Bucegi is not recommended for vegetarians. Taverna Sarbului,
accessible only by taxi, serves Serbian food and has the reputation of being the best restaurant in
the Prahova Valley. Casa Noastra on Blvd. Republicii has a good grocery store upstairs and a
restaurant serving traditional Romanian food downstairs. Irish House is a good and medium priced
restaurant that offers an amusing blend of previously dissimilar cultures; visitors should not be sur-
prised when they find a German party eating Bulgarian food and drinking Irish beer while American
country/western music plays in the background.

Sinia has a pretty good selection of bars and cafes. Hotel International Cofetarie has the best pas-
tries and hot chocolate in the city and also houses has an Internet café. Space Café, next to Blue
Angel Disco on the main thoroughfare is a traditional bar and also has a selection of specialty cof-
fees and teas. Across the street is Old Nick Pub, a good place to enjoy mixed drinks in a chill atmos-
phere. Expect a DJ on Saturday nights.

Lodging
There are a number of hotels centrally located in Sinaia. The Hotel Palace is for those with deep
pockets, but is a beautiful hotel in a central location. Less glamorous and less expensive is the Hotel
Caraiman, also near the center on the main boulevard, directly up the stairs from the train station. A
fair walk from the center, but highly recommended, is the Hotel Economat (0244-311-151). Located
in the Peles compound, the hotel is a number of buildings that were once used to house the royal
guests. When making a reservation, ask for a room in Floare de Colt, with a window facing the rear,
and you will be able to enjoy a stunning view of Peles lit up at night. This view will make you smile
almost as much as the next-to-nothing price. Then, there are always independents trying to rent out
extra rooms to travelers; they will solicit people at the train station and can be haggled into bargain
prices. Be careful and use good sense when dealing with such people.

Targu Mures

Location
Targu Mures is in central Transylvania and not particularly well connected by road or rail, Targu Mures
is difficult to get to from some locations, but worth the effort. Maxi taxis are available from Brasov,
and a handful of direct trains come from Bucuresti and Timisoara.
 26 Volunteer Travel Guide

Attractions
Targu Mures is a historically significant town and has an interesting ethnic mix. Travelers are as like-
ly to hear Hungarian as Romanian, and the population is generally described as half Hungarian, half
Romanian. But there is a significant Roma (Gypsy) population comprised of various sects. Walking
along the main street, the Gabor Gypsy men are distinguishable by their black, wide-brim hats, and
the women by their colorful skirts.

The architecture of Targu Mures is beautiful, and the city is packed with museums. In the old center
Transylvania

of the city, on Piata Trandafirilor is the Romanian Orthodox Church. Inside are some breathtaking
frescoes. Tucked away just east of the church is the Citadel. Beyond the walled park and in a park
that is both beautiful and serene is the Citadel Museum. Shopping along Piata Trandafirilor and the
surrounding area offers a number of products that are difficult to find in other Romanian cities.

Dining
Targu Mures is full of good restaurants. Str. Bolyai Farkas, a cobblestone street leading south from
the city center has a great array of restaurants and cafes. Pizza Mix is just north of the
Intercontinental Hotel and serves very good pizza and beer. Local musicians often play in the
evenings. Pizza Mix also delivers (0265-219-613). Venezia, behind Biserica Mare, serves Italian
food and pizza and has English menus that will prevent the unaware from ordering the $2.00 Beef
Testicle entrée. On Strada Petofi Sandor Rex Restaurant serves traditional, tasty meals. Expect
extremely attentive service, slightly higher than average prices, and waiters who will give their opin-
ion on what was ordered, whether asked or not. Hotel Villa Helvita near the Citadel on Boros Tamas,
serves very good Italian food, including pasta, fish, chicken, beef, and pork dishes. There is a full
menu with good wines and desserts. Kebab on Strada Bolyai Farkas has patrons step up to the
counter for coffee and drinks, or they go through the archway to find a buffet-style restaurant. Salads,
snitel, chicken fingers, and other local fare are available at prices determined by weight. Up the three
steps is an open airy back room where it is a pleasure to sit near the ivy-covered tree. Next door
China Blue serves authentic Chinese food. The restaurant has a friendly wait staff and a great selec-
tion of Chinese dishes. When ordering beer, asking for "bere rece" is important lest it be served
warm.

In the Tudor section, the newly opened Pizza Giovanni serves good pizza. Around the corner is the
elegant but reasonably priced Rosengarden, whose elaborate front staircase makes it easily identi-
fiable. On the way out, is a red shack next door called "Kurtos Cozonac," an open-air bakery where
they make traditional Hungarian "cozonac" (sweet bread) sprinkled with sugar, coconut, or poppy
seeds.

For a café or bar, Tutun on Bolyai Farkas is a good choice, and also a likely location in which to meet
Peace Corps Volunteers. The Eiffel, across the street, has a nice upstairs seating area with window
seats overooking the street. Farther up the street is The Press Club, a trendy hang out for the in-
crowd. The Tuborg draft comes in a four-inch diameter, one-meter tall container, so it is wise to
request enough glasses for friends. Smigerie just beyond the Press club is a good stop for a warm
bagel-like "covrigi" (pretzel) with sesame seed, poppy seed, or salt topping.

Lodging
 27

Zalau

Location
Zalau sits in the northwest corner of Transylvania, about 80 kilometers northwest of Cluj. Zalau is not
well connected by train, so the easiest way to get from Zalau to other cities is to take a bus or to trav-
el to Cluj (either on bus or by hitchhiking) and then continue the journey from there.

Attractions

Transylvania
Zalau is a small city in the hills that seems to attract a lot of foreign interest. Investments from
Hungary, Italy, and Holland have helped to contribute to the economy in recent years, which is visi-
ble from the renovations being made in the city and from the new, enormous houses in construction
outside the city center. Zalau has several small museums that are worth visiting. In the summertime,
hiking and camping are popular on the nearby Meses Mountain (actually a hill). Legend has it that
there is a waterfall on the hill, although few locals will actually be able to tell you how to reach it.

In Moigrad, a nearby village, stand the ruins of the Roman Porolissum, the gateway to the Roman
Dacia that was built around 100 AD. Busses to Moigrad take passengers from the stop across the
street from Zalau's General School 4. The driver knows the schedule for busses returning to Zalau,
so asking him will ensure the traveler does not become stranded in tiny Moigrad without a place to
stay. After hiking the hill up to the ruins, the custom is to wander until the shepherd who cares for the
area comes. American visitors who speak Romanian may wish to play dumb or they will risk learn-
ing more than they ever wanted to know about the Roman ruins.

Dining
Zalau is home to a wealth of uninspiring restaurants. Restaurant Unicum , Silvania Restaurant,
and Alba ca Zapada, all located in the center within a block of the City Hall, all serve average
Romanian food at average prices. Restaurant Elena, above the park, is slightly above average. A
better bet for Romanian food is Trifan, also called Restaurant Ursus, located on the edge of town
on the main road to Cluj. The food is good, and relatively inexpensive, but the real reason to go to
this restaurant is to enjoy the quiet outdoor terrace with a spectacular view over the Meses Mountain.
Hanul Drumetilor next door also has a great terrace with the same view, but expect to pay about
twice as much for the same quality food. Zalau has two good pizza joints. Pizzeria Champion, a
short way south of the City Hall (towards Cluj) on Gh. Doja, serves delicious deep-dish pizza, a rare
find in Romania. Gulliver's Pizza, about 15 minutes north of the center on the main boulevard, has
great thin-crust pizza and a decent outdoor terrace in the summer. Be sure the waiter writes down
your order, or risk getting a pizza that you didn’t ask for. In the center is Imbiss, a fast-food place
that is open 24 hours a day, for all the 4:00 A.M. pizza and sandwich demands. Along the main boule-
vard, there are a number of placinta (fried dough) kiosks. They come filled with cheese, chocolate,
apple, jam, or pickled cabbage, and with as little nutritional value as they carry, you know they're deli-
cious.

There is a much better choice of bars and cafes in the summer than you will at any other time. The
only two decent bars in Zalau are Old Jack's Pub and Diesel, both located in the center; they are
always packed, and it's impossible to get a table in the evening without making a reservation. When
the weather is nice, a number of excellent terraces open up. The Green Club terrace, located out-
side of the Casa de Cultura, serves not only beer, but also delicious iced coffee drinks and ice cream.
Boema, located nearer the center, is a much larger terrace with a nicer atmosphere and slightly
cheaper prices. Boema serves beer, fast food, and mici. There are also two discos, The Green Club
and Millennium, the latter catering mostly to the under 18 crowd.
 28 Volunteer Travel Guide

Lodging
Zalau has two hotels, both located in the center. The Hotel Porolissum and the Hotel Meses are
comparable in price, but the new renovations on the Hotel Meses make this a better bet for travelers.
The Hotel Elena, above the park in the center, is new and clean. There are also a number of small
pensions on the southern edge of town. They accept walk-ins, and information is available at one
of the tourist bureaus located in the center.
Transylvania
 29

Moldavia
Moldavia occupies the east-northeastern region of Romania, bordered on the west by the Carpathian
Mountains and on the east by the Republic of Moldova. The region has as much distinctive folklore
and as turbulent a history as its neighbor to the west, Transylvania. Orthodox monasteries are scat-
tered throughout the region among abundant natural beauty: forests, rolling hills, and natural springs.
Moldavia is also home of a proud artistic heratage, having given birth to notable names such as
Eminescu, Iorga, Enescu, and Lucian.

Botosani

Location
Botosani is located in the northern part of the region. Intercity buses serve the city with destinations
throughout Moldavia and beyond. Trains shuttle between Botosani and Veresti, where they connect
with northbound trains to Chisnau, westbound trains through Suceava, and southbound trains to Iasi
and Bucaresti.

Attractions
Botosani is a clean, friendly, and safe place to visit. The city and surrounding area are home to

Moldavia
Romania’s most beloved writers and artists: Mihai Eminescu, Nicolae Iorga, George Enescu and
Stefan Lucian. Although his actual birthplace no longer exists, the church where Eminescu was
christened still does. Biserica Adormiera Maicii Domnului Uspenia is located in the old section of
the city and contains Eminescu’s christening font, a large stature of the national poet, and a com-
memorative plaque. Nicolae Iorga’s birthplace and boyhood home is now a museum located on
the Nicolae Iorga Street. The museum contains photos and manuscripts of Iorga’s writing. George
Enescu was born in Liveni, in Botosani County; his birthplace has been preserved as a museum.

Botosani has a number of other attractions. There are two notable churches: Biserica Sf. Nicolae
Popauti, built in 1496, and Biserica Sf. Gheorge, built in 1551. Both are historically significant to
Southern Bucovina. Botosani has several attractive parks, the largest of which has a large pond and
gazebos and is located on Mihai Eminescu Boulevard. There is a pedestrian mall along Unirii
Street, with fountains and flowers in the spring and summer. On weekends, craft stalls sell locally
made items at reasonable prices. The Ethnographic Museum has interesting displays of Moldavian
costumes, wall hangings, and furniture. The Historical Museum, at the south end of the mall, has
a panorama of the history of the area from pre-Roman times to the present.

Teatrul (Theater) Mihai Eminescu is located at the north end of the mall. Filarmonica (philhar-
monic) Botosani is a good choice for evening entertainment. Classical programs are performed
Friday evenings from September through June.

Travelers may enjoy a day trip to Ipotesti, a short maxi-taxi ride from central Botosani. Here is
Eminescu’s boyhood home and the lake that was the inspiration for much of his poetry. A muse-
um displaying some of Eminescu’s work is also located here.

Dining
Dining options in Botosani are restricted to Romanian food and pizza. For Romanian, Tex Club on
Strada Primaverii and the dining room of the Hotel Unirea are adequate. Both restaurants are mod-
erately priced, and in the summer Hotel Unirea has a nice outdoor garden area.
 30 Volunteer Travel Guide

Lodging
There are two hotels Botosani with two-stars each, both of which provide clean, comfortable rooms
at moderate prices. The Rapsodia on Str. Cuza Voda has a number of recently remodeled rooms.
Hotel Unirea is currently being restored; it has a lavish adjoining building and in 2002 opened a pub-
lic swimming pool with entry fee of 125.000 lei per day.

Braila

Location
Braila is located in the south of the region, about 25 kilometers south of Galati. The city has well light-
ed and very clean streets and is easy to navigate.

Attractions
Braila is hardly the jumpin’est town in the country but there is a historic district and also some unex-
pectedly nice museums and historical buildings. Maria Filotti on Piata Traian is a beautiful dramat-
ic theater. Ceaususcu’s yacht is parked on the Dunarea (Danube) in the Braila riverfront. Brailians
like to promenade on week-ends and the streets are full of people. There are three cinemas and the
lovely faleza which overlooks the Danube. The best time to visit the city is in the summer when the
Moldavia

riverfront terraces are open, which is also the best time to take a visit across the Danube to the Insula
Brailei, a wooded island good for walks and picnics.

Dining
The best restaurant in Braila is After Dark on Strada Plevna. It is the newest restaurant and serves
pizza, pasta and Romanian cuisine in a rustic, atmospheric building with decent service. The chinese
restaurant located on Str. Republici where it meets Dorobanti has surprisingly authentic Chinese
food in an infrequently visited and garishly decorated second floor restaurant with reliable (if not
cheerful) service.

Lodging

Focsani

Location
Focsani is located about 70 kilometers northwest of Braila and Galati. Maxi-taxis leave from
Bucaresti to Focsani every 30 minutes, and because it is on the train line to Iasi and Suceava, the
city is also well connected by train.

Attractions
Focsani has a number of interesting sites for travelers. At the southern end of the city on B-dul
Bucuresiti stands the WWI Mausoleum. B-dul Bucuresti continues north into the center of town,
Piata Unirii, which is the place where Moldova and Wallachia were officially unified in 1859. Farther
north on Boulevardul Republicii is the old theater that has been damaged by two earthquakes, one
in 1977 and one in 1986. The theater is currently under renovation, but is still an impressive sight.
Opposite the theater is an Orthodox Church that is over 300 years old. About ten minutes outside
of the city by maxi-taxi is the Vrancea Muesum and Ethnographic Reservation.

Vrancea is known throughout Romania for its wine. On the last weekend in October, Thursday
through Sunday is the Vrancea Wine Festival. The festival offers regional and national crafts, local
wine produces, food booths, carnival rides and games. Every evening folk singers and dancers per-
 31

form for the crowds. Romanian pop musicians also come to play, and the town holds a pageant for
harvest queen. There are poetry competitions and vin-culture expositions. The festival is a very pop-
ular one in the region.

There are several possible day trips from Focsani. Busses leaving the bus station towards Brasov
stop in Lepsa, where trout farms, the Putna Falls, and a beautiful nature reserve are all open to vis-
itors. If staying in Lepsa, Pensiuna Cazare (0237-266-841 or 0237-614-397) is a guesthouse that
provides rooms and family style meals. The inn overlooks a river with forests and mountains in the
background. From Lepsa, Soveja is an hour-and-a-half walk, but there are also buses going there.
In Soveja is an historical mausoleum and an outdoor sculpture garden. The fresh air and beau-
tiful surroundings are good reasons in themselves to visit. The Zboina Hotel has rooms available for
travelers staying in Soveja.

Dining
The best restaurant in Focsani is Wasserman’s Restaurant and Pizzeria, serving Romanian food
and pizza. Supermarket Mara on B-dul Unirii has a very good selection of hard-to-find foods.

Lodging

Moldavia
Galati

Location
Galati is on the Danube River in the southeast of the Region. The city is served by intercity trains
and maxi-taxis from Bucaresti. Maxi-taxis leave from a small station just southeast of Gara de Nord
train station in Bucaresti (corner of Stefan Furtuna and Dinicu Golescu).

Attractions
Galati is a city of great interest to Eastern European history buffs. There is wealth of ancient and
modern history in the lore of the Galati port, streets, architecture. The mixture of Greek, Jewish,
Roman, and Turkish culture will certainly intrigue those wishing to better understand the region.
Galati city tours can be arranged through www.infotour.galati.ro. Tourists looking for a relaxing week-
end can stroll along the Danube River on the broad, tree-lined boardwalk. Galati has many good
museums, parks, monuments, and archeological sites as well. The Precista Church, built in 1647,
is the oldest structure in Galati and was built from red stone taken from the Roman Camp at Tirighina-
Barbosi. The Orthodox Cathedral, Metoc Monastery and Greek Orthodox Church are all locat-
ed in the city center and have excellent examples of early Romanian frescoes. The Museum of
History displays an extensive collection of artifacts such as archeological and iconological items from
the Moldavian region. The Administrative Palace and Robescu House on the historic Domneasca
Street Architectural Reserve represent the finest work of renowned architect, Ioan Mincu. The
Museum of Visual Arts includes over 5,000 works created between 1950 and 2003. The Alexandru
Ioan Cuza Residence on the street with Cuza’s namesake is a well-preserved eample of elegant
French/Romanian architecture and furnishing. Cuza is revered for is role in the union of the regions
which became Romania in 1859. Alexandrescu Urechea Library, on Mihai Bravu Street is over 115
years old and still serves as a cultural research center for university students. Fani Tradini is beau-
tiful white theater named for the famous actress and hosts symphonic concerts, drama, and musi-
cals.
 32 Volunteer Travel Guide

Dining
There are many ethnic and Romanian restaurants throughout Galati. The Blue Sun in the Hotel
Galati serves delicious Indian dishes. Bon Ton and Full House offer Romanian and continental fare.
Both are located on Domneasca Street. Rapsodia in the Hotel Dunarea is well known for its tradi-
tional Romanian food. Along the Danube are many cafes and pizzerias.

Lodging
The three star Hotel Galati (www.hotelgalati.ro, 0236-460-040) and the two star Hotel Dunarea
(0236-418-014) are both conveniently located on Domneasca Street in central Galati.

Piatra Neamt

Location
Piatra Neamt is in the lower Bistrita Rover Valley, near the Carpathian Mountains. It is somewhat iso-
lated, but there are daily trains to Bacau.

Attractions
Piatra Neamt is a medium-sized city of about 130,000 people. Pietricica is the little mountain near-
Moldavia

ly surrounded by the city. It offers a great view on clear days and an ideal spot for a picnic. Trails go
up both the steeper frontside and slightly more forgiving back of the hill. Parcul Cozia can be
reached by a cobblestone road that winds up the hill. On the way are a couple of restaurants, both
decent. If traveling in there winter, here is a good place for sledding.

Piatra Neamt is a good starting place for day trips, particularly for people who enjoy the outdoors.
Thirty kilometers to the west is Ceahlau. Ceahlau Mountain is one of the highest peaks in the east-
ern Carpathians and great destination for hiking. A long day’s hike can reach the weather station on
the Toaca summit and return to the city. For those wishing to extend their hike, Cabana Dochia offers
lodging and dining, and is located in the saddle between Toaca and Ocalasul Mare. Another option
is to set up camp in the grassy meadow below the cabana (it is necessary to purchase a tent permit
from the Salvamont rescue station at the cabana). In the summer this spot can become crowded, so
explorers who prefer more remote areas would be well advised to enjoy their hiking elswhere.

Dining
Tequila Bowling serves great salata cu piept de pui (chicken breast with salad), has a great terrace,
and offers two bowling lanes. On Saturday nights, the music starts around 11:00 pm, and the dance
floor opens for business. Villa Italia on Strada Burebista serves the best Italian food in town and has
a good wait staff. Patti Paris across the street from the Hotel Central serves Italian ice cream and
pastries.

Lodging
Piatra Neamt has three centrally located hotels, but a better option than these hotels is the
Pensiunea Ambiance (phone: 0040 233 231431, mobile: 0040 744 631661, web: www.aldo-
travel.com/index_eng.html), a guest house owned by Doina Anghel of Aldo Travel. Although it’s locat-
ed on the edge of town, the guesthouse offers large rooms and a homey atmosphere. Breakfast is
included and other delicious meals will be prepared for a low price. The guesthouse can also arrange
steam train tours, opera tours, and other themed trips.
 33

Suceava

Location
Suceava is one of the largest cities in the Moldavia region, and is located just south of the Ukrainian
border. From Bucuresti, there are daily busses and trains to Suceava. Cities to the west of Suceava
are more difficult to reach.

Attractions

Dining
Latino Restaurant on Curtea Domneasca specializes in Italian and Romanian food. The restaurant
has a pleasant atmosphere and delicious pizza with real mozzarella cheese (difficult to find in
Romania). Markiz, which is two doors down, offers an assortment of Turkish food, pizza, and an
Indian Burger that comes with lettuce (also difficult to find). There a nice terrace in the summer, and
a bakery offering tasty pastries. Both Hotel Balada and Hotel Classic serve quality traditional
Romanian food, but expect high prices from Hotel Classic. Test Prima, on Strada Universitatii has
the best meat, cheese, and potato pies in Suceava, and for a very low price.

Moldavia
Suceava also has several good bars and cafes. 60’s Club on Stefan Cel Mare is the best bar in
Suceava with its mellow atmosphere and pool tables. The staff at 60’s, however, is sometimes be
rude and have been known to cheat foreigners. The Office Club, although expensive and out of the
way, is the Suceava hot spot. Bring your earplugs, though—the house music can get pretty loud. In
the Central park is the Underground Club, which has reasonably priced drinks and a nice staff. Opt
for the beautiful terrace in the summer.

Lodging
The only youth hostel in Suceava is the Class Hostel, which is located one kilometer from the train
station at Str. Aurel Vlaicu 195 (phone 0723 782 328) and costs 13 Euro per person. Their web site
is www.classhostel.home.ro.

Vatra Dornei

Location
Vatra Dornei, a small town of 18,000, is located in the heart of the mountains, three hours west of
Suceava, four hours east of Cluj Napoca.

Attractions
Vatra Dornei is well known for its dairy products and mineral water, but more interesting to the trav-
eler are the ski slopes, spas and hiking.

Each year around Valentine’s day, Vatra hosts their winter festival. During the festival the towns
population doubles in order to enjoy live music, ski competitions, and other festivities.

Dining
Restaurant Carol, part of the Hotel Carol restaurant complex, is located on the pedestrian mall. The
food is great, but watch out! Staff love to over-charge foreigners.

Lodging
Vatra is a common popular place for tourists and has many hotels, pensions, and villas.
 34 Volunteer Travel Guide

Maramures

Maramures, the central northern area of the country is actually a part of Transylvania, but deserves
note as a hotbed of old Romanian culture. Villages throughout the county still live lives embedded in
traditional. Many work in agriculture, practice traditional crafts, woodcarving especially, and don tra-
ditional clothing on Sundays and holidays. The area is indeed fascinating and full of possibilities for
discovery.

Sighetu Marmatiei

Location
Sighetu Marmatiei (Sighet) is located north of Baia Mare, a short distance from the Ukraine and about
16 hours from Bucaresti by train. It is also connected to Baia Mare, Cluj, and Timisoara by train.
While there is a road from Baia Mare to Sighet, it is a difficult drive, and not recommended in winter
due to the frequency of avalanches.

Attractions
Sighet is a surprisingly cosmopolitan city situated in traditional Maramures with a superb mountain
setting and a longstanding folk tradition. Sighet is home to numerous religious denominations, includ-
ing Catholic, Lutheran, Baptist, Pentecostal, Jehovah’s Witness, Adventist, as well as Romanian,
Greek, and Ukrainian Orthodox traditions.

Two parallel roads compose the city’s center and main commercial district. Most of the restaurants
and the movie theater are found there. The Palace of Culture, with its round towers and cone
shaped roofs, and the Gothic style Lutheran cathedral are just two examples of the beautiful archi-
Maramures

tecture you will find here. The Palace of Culture offers classes in music, art, and drama, and has
impressive murals inside. The Gradina Morii is a large park on the south end of town. Running up
the Iza River, its views of the surrounding mountains are spectacular. The park is used for many town
festivals.

At the corner of Str. Simion Barnutu and Str. Gheorghe Doja is “The Memorial of Communism and
Resistance,” more commonly known as the Prison Museum. Actually set inside a prison, the muse-
um documents and presents the history of communism and the politically persecuted in Romania; it
is an impressive and powerful exhibit. Although short on English language captions, the museum
does offer English language tours, but ask in advance.

Sighet hosts its Winter Festival on December 27-30. The festival is truly unique and showcases folk
dancing, traditional fashion, and music. People come from villages all around bringing all kinds of
festive masks, and the celebration is city-wide. In the middle of May the city hosts a ten-day Spring
Festival. This is a folk festival with outdoor performances, symposia, and special exhibits.

Located east of town, the village museum has a great collection of authentic Marmures residences
and churches that were deconstructed in other locations, their parts catalogued, and then reassem-
bled here. The interiors are fitted with the items of everyday life and the logs that make up some of
these houses are immense. The entire museum is prettily situated on top of a hill from which you
can see Sighetu Marmatiei.
 35

The cinema is located in the center of town. Although it doesn’t offer the best cinematic experience,
the price is right. Across the street Skyland Disco has elaborate decorations and lighting, but tends
to cater to the high-school crowd.

A daytrip to Sapanta, home of the famous Happy Cemetery, is easy to make from Sighet. At the
Happy Cemetary, you will find wooden crosses painted and carved with often-comical verses. A dic-
tionary or an interpreter is necessary to get the most out of the visit These “head stones” are very
un-Romanian but worth the visit. It is also worthwhile to step inside the church, in which are some
eye-pleasing frescoes and carved wood. Not very well known is the “museum” of the carver. On
the road to the side of the church, there’s a sign that points to the carver’s house 300 meters away.
The museum is essentially two rooms at the carver’s house, overseen by his wife. There are only a
few carvings here, displaying a little more effort than those in the graveyard. The real reason, how-
ever, to visit is the black and white photos of the former carver on the wall. Looking at these is like
sitting in a Romanian’s home and being shown photos of their parents and grandparents. It puts the
carvings in the cemetery into a better context. The walk to and from the Happy Cemetery is also a
good way to unwind and see the local architecture.

The wooden Barsana Monastery, also in Sapanta, however, is the best place to view Maramures
County’s love of woodwork. This women’s monastery consists of churches, lodging buildings, and
gazebos. Busses traveling toward Satu Mare stop in Barsana, and there are busses direct to
Barsana available from the bus station.

For more information about the villages in Maramures, and how to arrange a stay with a host family
or in pension, the Centru de Dezvoltare Economico-Sociala a Tarii Maramures (0262-312-552,
www.mtmm.ro) has information about over 50 different pensions, host families etc. Also this organi-
zation is a way to connect with people who can arrange car rides to the different sights, or develop

Maramures
specialized tours. They deal with the tourism of the Maramures area. Usually people who come to
region and use them for the contact information are pleased. They also have information on the fairs,
festivals and notable artisans.

Dining
The diversity of the food in Sighet does not yet match the diversity in the population. Sighet, howev-
er, does not disappoint the pizza lover. While it’s a little more expensive than other restaurants, Pizza
Primavara has delicious food and an enjoyable atmosphere. Pizza Romina has comparable food
that is a bit less expensive than Pizza Primavera, and has a lovely covered terrace opened in the
summer. Inside, however, expect a lot of smoke. It is best to steer clear of Pizza Nova. Inter Bijoux
is home to the “Wall of Crying Children,” an unusual series of portraits of children that’s both sad and
comical. Small and smoky, you’ll find average food, but a good coffee here. Ileana has a nice sum-
mer terrace, decent coffee and pastries, and like many other cafés is very smoky. Ali Baba is a bak-
ery with unbelievable Polish pretzels. It’s located across the street from the fire station.

For drinks, a 15-minute walk south of the City Hall goes to Eddie Bar. Small and cozy inside, it offers
the chance to play a game of pool, and has a good terrace in the summer and barbecue on the week-
ends. Tequila Pub in the center is nice but pricey.

Lodging
Perla Sigheteana is the best value for lodging. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the prices are
fair, and the food is very good. Perla is located a bit outside of town, past the Lutheran cathedral
and on Str. Avram Iancu nr. 65. Located a little farther down the street (nr. 42), but just as good as
Perla is Motel Siesta (0262-311-468); it has a great terasa and resturant as well. Hotel Tisa is locat-
 36 Volunteer Travel Guide

ed in the center and comparably priced. Rooms here, however, are of a lower quality than at Perla.
Also, later this year (2004) there will be the first hostel to open in Sighet. It is called the Cobwob
Hostel and is at Str. 22 Dec. 1989 nr. 42. For information call 0740635673 or 0262-310-059.

A more culturally adventurous option is to spend a little time out in the villages and stay with gazdas
(host families) or pensionars. Contact the Centru de Dezvoltare Economico-Sociala a Tarii
Maramures at 0262-312-552, or look at the website www.mtmm.ro where you can browse the 50 dif-
ferent pensionars, gazdas etc. in the Maramures region. Also, this number/website is helpful for set-
ting up car rides out to the different sights, arranging specialized tours, and getting information on the
different fairs/festivals in the region. They are very professional and reputable.
Maramures
 37

Banat
Banat is the western portion of Romania, sharing borders with Serbia and Hungary. The region clear-
ly shows its history of Habsburg influence through its architectrue. Ethnically there is a strong
Hungarian population, as well as a smaller community of Serbs. The region is somewhat removed
from Bucuresti, both geographically and culturally, making it little surprise that the 1989 revolution
began in Timisoara, one of the Romania’s cheif college towns. The region is a good place from which
to go west, as all trains pass through Oradea, Arad, or Timisoara.

Arad

Location
Characterized by its Austro-Hungarian architecture, Arad is a city of about 200,000 people, and locat-
ed in the westerun part of Romania between Timisoara and Oradea. Arad is an important train cross-
roads, for destinations both in country and international, especially Budapest. There are five
European capitals closer to Arad than Bucuresti.

Getting around: In the center of the city is a wide main thoroughfare, Bvd. Revolutiei. The Boulevard’s
southern endpoint is the Teatrul de Stat, and at the northern end is a large Romanian Orthodox
Church still under construction. The distance between the two is 2 km. The centerpiece of the city is
the Primaria (City Hall); it was built in the 19th century and patterned after similar governmental struc-
tures in Vienna. Most activities, hotels, restaurants and entertainment is within easy walking distance
of the Primaria. However transportation does include a convenient tram system and accessible, reli-
able taxis.

Attractions
Arad’s most unique attraction is The Strand. The Strand is a series of cafes, bars, restaurants, dis-
cos and games along the Meres River. It is also located close to the Primaria. It is allegedly the
largest strand in Central Europe. It is common for over 5,000 patrons on a summer evening, 10,000
on any summer weekend and 15,000 during concerts. A good source for finding out more about the
city and events is www.primariaarad.ro.

Dining
Arad has a variety of restaurants, cafes and pizzerias. Three recommended dining spots are within
easy reach from the Primaria. Coandi Mic has the best Romanian food. Pizza King serves excel-

Banat
lent pizza and also offers a non-smoking environment, a rarity in Romania. Il Padrino offers mod-
estly priced Italian food that won’t disappoint. And for a special occasion, Mozart’s is the place to
go, but be warned that it is expensive.

Lodging
There is a variety of hotels in Arad. 2 star Hotel Arad, the 3 star Hotel Central and a more upscale
(and expensive) 3 star Hotel Continental Astoria. All are within minutes of the Primaria.
 38 Volunteer Travel Guide

Lugoj

Location
Lugoj is located in southern Romania, east of Timisoara. Most trains traveling to or from Timisoara
stop in Lugoj, making this the simplest way to travel to and from the city. The autogara near the main
square in Lugoj also has busses traveling to both Romanian cities and international destinations.

Attractions
Lugoj is a medium-sized town that contains several churches dating from the 15th century. The old-
est monument is the Saint Nicholas Monastery Church, which was built in 1402. Iulia Hasdeau
High School stands next to the church, on top of what was once the church cemetery. The baroque
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin is another important landmark that was construct-
ed in the mid 1700s.

Those seeking art and history will find many outlets in Lugoj. Galeria Proarte is in the center of town
and periodically hosts nice traveling exhibits. The Music House commemorates the rich musical tra-
dition of the area. The Music House honors great musicians such as Traian Grozavescu, who was
the world’s best tenor during his time. History and culture buffs should not miss the History
Museum.

In the summer, swimming in the Timis River is popular. Paddleboat rentals are available for those
wishing to cruise around. 30 kilometers from Lugoj is Surduc Lake, a good spot for a daytrip. The
lake is a good place fishing, camping, or hanging out with friends. Restaurants and lodging are
available.

In the evening Victoria Cinema shows films. The local theater regularly hosts both national and inter-
national theater troupes. Local discos are frequented mostly by high school students. Nevertheless,
it is possible to have a surprisingly good time with a group of friends there. Club Planet or Coco will
meet all of the needs of disco enthusiasts.

Lugoj hosts three festivals each year. In the (season) are the Beer Festival, Wine Festival, and the
Harvest Festival. Here are popular parties with plenty of food, drink, traditional music and dancing.

Dining
Pescarusul Restaurant is three kilometers outside Lugoj and well worth the trip. It serves Romanian
Banat

fare including deer and bear, features live Romanian music, and is very inexpensive. Tivoli
Restaurant is a bit expensive but has good food and service. Dunav Restaurant has typical
Romanian food and prices, but has live music and a good terrace. Ana Lugojana Inn and
Restaurant, nine kilometers outside the city on the way to Surduc, has great clatite cu branza (crepes
with cheese) and tasty mici. Compact, Milano, and Zuchini’s all offer pizza and Romanian food for
low prices.

Super or Matcon are two bars/cafes; there is no dancing or overly loud music, good places to enjoy
drinks with friends. They are located next door to one another, and both places are small and inex-
pensive. Camille tries to be Euro-chic, but fails. Nevertheless, it is a nice place to have a beer or
glass of wine. In the summer, Carla is a popular place for a drink. Flamingo offers food, drinks, and
good music.
 39

Lodging
The best hotel in Lugoj is the 3-star Hotel Tivoli. The Hotel Dacia also has 3-stars and is open for
business, but is currently being remodeled. If you like to watch the trains, head to the Hotel Timis,
2-star, that has a view of the train station. The 2-star Hotel Tirol is on the edge of the city.

Resita

Location
Resita is one hour south of Timisoara and about two hours north of Baile Herculane, not far from the
Serbian border. Maxi-taxis, buss, and trains go from Timisoara to Resita. A quicker option is to take
a cab to the “autostop pentru Resita,” a short distance from the center, and hitch a ride; the wait is
usually no longer than 5-10 minutes.

Attractions
The Caras-Severin County Museum of History, the art sculpture at Victoria Piata and the Art
Gallery are all good options for travelers wishing to see some of the history and culture of the area.
If looking for inexpensive clothing, the GAS store is a factory outlet that isn’t very large but has great
prices.

Daytrip options are plentiful from Resita. Garina is a small village about 33km to the southeast and
has a restaurant called La Rascruce, which servers excellent the tocatura with mamaliga. The sur-
rounding area is ideal for an afternoon hike. The pension house offers accommodations for about
$10.00 per night. In winter, the Semenic Mountains are good for winter sports, and the Hotel Birta
offers the Dracula Snowmobile Tour. In summer the outdoor loving traveler will be pleased to visit
Cerna Valley, Anina Mountains, and the Danube Iron Gate Reservation

Baile Herculane is about one-and-a-half-hours by car (otherwise 3-4 hours), a possible daytrip, and
has aesthetic appeal. The stone-carved sanctuaries date back to the Roman Empire. Today a
bronze statue of Hercules stands in the Hercules Piata across from the 4-star Hotel Ferdinand.
There are spas available to rejuvenate and heal the weary traveler.

Dining
The Aristocrat is in the center of the city and serves delicious Chinese, Italian, and Romanian dish-
es. The calzone will especially please both mouth and stomach. On B-dul Revolutia de Decembrie
beside the power plant the Acapulco Cafeteria offers the best pastries in Resita. Highly recom-

Banat
mended pizza restaurants are Florio Pizza (for delivery, 0255-224-308), with a terrific thin crust, and
Rebel (also delivers, 0255-222-243). Dulce Vita in Governdar (the new part of town) serves good
Italian food. For fast food, Fast Food Intim, Maxx Fast Food are all adequate restaurants. Maxi-
Burgers offers great customer service, and Princess, has inexpensive beer and tasty snitzel parti-
san, and both serve Romanian fare. For music while dining, Sanela has sub-par food but a relaxing
ambiance and live jazz musicians nightly and is in Governdar. Terasa Acapulco, beside the power
plant, also offers live music, mici, pasta, and traditional Romanian dishes.

Club Castel is a good bar at the southern end of the city, and also serves food. Club Costello, a
kilometer from the center in the Old Town is a risqué club in the traditional French style. Flamingo’s,
in the center, offers over 40 mixed drinks and top brand liquor. Shell Bar, located above the Shell
Gas Station is also highly recommended.
 40 Volunteer Travel Guide

Lodging
Hotel Seminic is located in the center of town (255-213-480) at Piata 1 Decembrie 1918, #2. It is
never at or near capacity; there is always a vacancy, and unfortunately, there is a good reason—the
hotel is a bleak looking place best classified on the darker side of “shady.”

Timisoara

Location
Timisoara, in the southwest of Romania, is very well connected by train, bus, and plane. Direct trains
run to and from many major cities, including Bucaresti, Cluj, and Iasi. The airport has both domestic
and international flights.

Getting around: A good resource is www.timisoara.ro. This site provides a good map with the names
of streets, parks, and landmarks, as well as other information for visitors. Most destinations can be
found in reference to the long public plaza stretching from the Orthodox Cathedral at the south end
to the Opera House at the north end, which sits on Piata Victoriei, but also known as Piata Operei.
Two reliable taxi services are Tudo Taxi (dial 945; include the 0256 prefix for cell phones) and Radio
Taxi (940).

Attractions
Timisoara is absolutely beautiful. It is rich in history and has a western European feel that exists in
few other Romanian cities. There are numerous peaceful parks, a wide selection of quality restau-
rants and cafes, and more diversions than are possible to see in a short vacation.

Because of the plethora of activities and sights in Timisoara, the Tourist Information Center is good
place to get started. It's on Str. Proclamatiei de la Timisoara, Nr. 5, about five blocks northeast of
Piata Victoriei. It's open Mon-Sat 10 am - 6 and the e-mail contact is infocentru@ccmtm.ro.

Timisoara has three featured museums: the History Museum, near Piata Revolutiei, the
Ethnographic Museum, near the Hotel Continental, and the Village Museum, near the intersection
of tramvai 1 and 2. For a quiet day in the park, the Botanical Park is three blocks northwest of the
Opera House, off of Str. G. Dima. Parcul Rozelor is one of a string of parks hugging the edge of the
downtown area and running along the Bega Canal west of the Cathedral; the park sometimes hosts
summer performances in its outdoor theater. Parcul Poporului a bit farther from the center, about a
20 minute wald from the Opera House on Blvd. 3 August 1919.
Banat

The Opera House, in front of which the 1989 revolution began, hosts regular performances.
Advertisements for the philharmonic are usually posted around the city. There are three full time,
indoor cinemas in the city. Capitol Cinema is on Blvd. C.D. Loga, nr. 2, one block east of the
Cathedral. Cinema Timis is on Piata Victoriei and shares an entrance with Club 30, a good
jazz/blues night club. Cinema Studio Euroimages is on Str. N. Lenau, half a block east of the Piata
Victoriei fish fountain. During the summer and early fall there is an additional outdoor cinema,
Cinema de Vara. It is behind the Capitol Cinema and shows movies at 10:00 P.M. weather permit-
ting. Near Piata Revolutiei is the British Council Cultural Center; it is one block west of the Opera
House, off Blvd. Republicii, on Str. Paris, nr. 1. which offers a variety of English magazines, movies,
and books. There is also a French Cultural Center on Blvd. C.D. Loga, nr.46 offering similar
resources. To cool down in the summer consider on of the many pools open for a swim, or a river-
side terrace for a cold beer.
 41

Club No Name, Club 53, and Tunnel Club, are all near Piata Unirii and good places to live the night
life. Tunnel Club is trendy, pricey, and located underground, with the dance club in the back. The front
room, however, is casual and open, and the music is not so loud you can't have a conversation.
There are also places in Timisoara with good music but less of a weekend-club feel: Cactus, in the
complex, Club 30, under Cinema Timis, has live jazz and blues performers, D'arc and Evolution are
both near Piata Unirii and play house music. The Note is near the complex and a bit pricey, but a
great venue for weekly live performances.

Dining
Dining options in Timisoara are almost limitless For pizza, Napoleon's is located in the complex;
Celentanos and Magic Pizza are both nearby. Pizzeria Scalini in Calea Aradului serves Italian food
and has excellent ice cream. The best Romanian food in Timisoara is served at La Nea Marin in
Cartierul Mehala, Club 21 in Piata Revolutiei, and Tineti near Calea Aradului. For those trying to
scrounge up some breakfast, The Colt Café and Grizzly are good choices, and both are near Piata
Unirii. Perla 2 and Tequila are in the complex, also serve good breakfast food, and offer free coffee
and newspapers with your order.

Decadent desserts are available everywhere in Timisoara. Ana Lugojana on the road towards Lugoj
makes good clatite (crepes), as do Restaurant Sena, in the student complex, Banateana, Rustic,
Maestro a restaurant in the center, and Piata Balcescu's little diner, where the Crepe Suzettes will
not disappoint. Ice cream lovers should try Europa Restaurant near Zanonui, Pizzeria Scalini,
Zanonui on Porumbescu Street or Cimineli near Maestro and Piata Libertatii. Papanasi can be found
at Perla 2 and Valachia.

International cuisine options in Timisoara are boundless by comparison with other Romanian cities.
Texas, located on Strada Circumvalatiunii nr. 10, serves American food, arguably the best burgers,
pork ribs, steak fries, and chicken wings in Romania. China Mare, near Gara de Est, serves (that's
right!) Chinese food, while Harolds, in the complex, serves both Chinese and Mexican fare. La
Cucaracha, also in complex, has Mexican food exclusively. For Greek food, Acropolis near Piata
Unirii is a good destination. Excellent ambiance and Indian food can be found at Mahajara on Piata
Unirii, on a corner across from the Eclipse Café. Oliviu, near Calea Sagulu, serves Lebanese food,
and the Kenan Star on Strada Brancoveanu not only serves Turkish fare but also delivers. Across
the street from Perla 2 Hotel, you can enjoy a distinctive Balkan meal at a good Serbian restaurant.

Java House, near Piata Unirii, Corso Café and Art Café, both near Hotel Continental, and Eclipse
Café on Piata Unirii are all good cafés. Latino near the Banca Comerciala Romana serves real

Banat
Italian espresso. Inside serves good cocktails. For a casual hangout with inexpensive beer, the
Fabrica de Bere is highly recommended. Club 1MV on Boulevard Mihai Viteazul is a popular night
spot.

Lodging
Agentia Taberelor si Turismului Scolar (ATTMS; 0256-190-468) on Strada Mihai Eminescu has a
hostel that charges about $7.00 for a bed and gives discounts to teachers. The rooms have 2-4 beds
and a private bathroom. There is a communal kitchen, but you can also order breakfast and dinner
when you make your reservation. The hostel in Casa Tineretului, behind the McDonald's on Strada
Cluj is part of AYH-HI, and costs about $6.00 a night; their website is www.hihostels-romania.ro. The
Casa Politechnicii Hotel (0256-220-366) is owned by the university and costs about $14.00 a night,
includes breakfast, and is located across from the Cathedral off Piata Victoriei. Hotel Cina-Banatul
(0256-491-903, www.cina.com.ro) was remodeled in 2003, is one-and-a-half blocks west of the cen-
ter on Blvd. Republicii, and charges $25.00-35.00 Euro per night.
 42 Volunteer Travel Guide

Dobrogea

Dobrogea is the Black Sea coastal and Danube Delta region. The Delta is an incredible ecological
preserve, popular especially among fishermen and bird-watchers, while the beachfronts cater more
to standard summer tourists. In parts, the region bears the marks of former Turkish rule (ceded to
Romania after Russian/Romanian forces defeated Turkey in Bulgaria in 1878) with an existing
Islamic community and functioning mosques.

Constanta

Location
Constanta is located on the Black Sea, about three hours east of Bucuresti by train. There are a num-
ber of trains to and from Constanta in the summer, with direct trains coming from locations as far
away as Timisoara, Cluj, Arad, Iasi, and Suceava. During the rest of the year, there are far fewer
trains going to and from Constanta, but there are still several trains daily to and from Bucuresti.

Attractions
Constanta is a city packed with museums, theaters, and tourist activities. The Constanta Tourist
Information Canter at 221 Tomis Boulevard (0241 708 600, www.geocities.com/constanta_cit) pro-
vides travelers with a wealth of information on what to see and do, as well as recommendations for
dining and lodging.

Constanta County has four archeological museums, five art museums, a natural science muse-
um, a naval museum, and a military museum. The National History and Archaeology Museum
Constanta displays artifacts concerning the entire history of Dobrogea, some of which date back to
the Paleolithic period. Artifacts of special historical and artistic value are housed here, as are rare
and unique objects such as the Tanagra statues and the famous thesaurus of sculptures, which
includes busts of Isis, the goddess Hectate, and the Glycon Serpent. The museum is located on
Ovidius Square, and is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. The Constanta Art Museum is at 32
Tomis Boulevard. The museum displays paintings, sculpture and graphic art belonging to great mod-
ern and contemporary artists such at Theodor Aman, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Lucian, Theodor
Palady and others. The Constanta Folk Art Museum, also at 32 Tomis Boulevard, presents many
elements of the ethnographic and folk art of Romania. Romanian folk costumes, handkerchiefs, car-
pets, furniture, domestic objects, and ceramics are on display. Ion Jalea Sculpture Museum at 26
Arhiepiscopiei Street has a 120-piece collection of works in bronze and plaster. The Art Museum
Medgidia on Trandafirilor Street displays works of the greatest classic and contemporary Romanian
artists. The focus of the artwork is on Dobrogea, and the museum tries to accomplish a dialogue
between the region’s old and new landscape.

The Natural Sciences Museum of Constanta at 225 Mamaia Boulevard is divided into six main sec-
tions. The Dolphinarium has shows with trained dolphins from the Black Sea, as well as two South
Dobrogea

American sea lions. The World Ocean Museum is in the same building as the Dolphinarium and has
collections of marine flora and fauna from the Black Sea in addition to marine life from other seas and
oceans of the world. The Planetarium and Astronomical Observatory is equipped with an astronom-
ical observatory and solar observation station. The Animal Micro Reservation presents birds unique
to the Danube Delta and offers visitors the chance to learn about some terrestrial and aquatic ani-
mals. The Exotic Birds Exhibition presents a collection of exotic and decorative birds. The Aquarium
holds a rich collection of aquatic fauna specific to the Black Sea and Danube Delta, with several
 43

species of exotic fish from other oceans, and it boasts the largest collection of sturgeon in the world.

The Romanian Naval Museum of Constanta at 53 Traian Street contains three-dimensional

objects, bas-reliefs, casts of epigraphic documents, ancient coins, model reproductions of all types of
ships, and reproductions of mural paintings. The museum is closed on Mondays. The National
Military Museum presents the traditional weapons of the Romanian terrestrial army. The exhibition
contains valuable collections of weapons, firearms, decorations, medals, vintage costumes and cam-
paign uniforms, and military flags. It is located at Strada Liliacului number 7, and is closed on
Monday.

There are a handful of theaters in Constanta that travelers may wish to visit. The Ovidiu Drama
Theater, the Constanta Opera, and the Marea Neagra Filarmonica are located at Strada Miercea
cel Batran, number 97. The Oleg Danoviski Ballet Theater is at number 5 Strada Rascoala. The
Fantasio Revue Theater is at number 11 Bulevardul Ferdinand. The Elpis Puppet Theater can be
found at Strada Aristide Karatzali, number 14.

Constanta is a good launch pad for day trips where the traveler may visit still more museums, and
several monasteries. The Histria Archaeological Museum is located 60 kilometers north of
Constanta, near Istra Village. Inside are several bas-reliefs, Greek amphorae, painted ceramics, and
Greek objects made from glass, metal, bone, and ivory. Adamclisi Archaeological Museum is in
the village Adamclisi, 60 kilometers southwest of Constanta. It collection consists of artifacts such as
lamps, ancient coins, tools, jewelry, and numerous pieces of architecture and epigraphy. Located
next to the papyrus tomb is Callatis Archaeological Museum of Mangalia. The museum exhibits
valuable archaeological artifacts found inside the ancient fortress of Callatis. The Topalu Art
Museum in Topalu, a village 80 kilometers northwest of Constanta, exhibits over 200 works of
Romanian artwork including paintings, sculpture, and graphic art. The museum is closed Monday
and Tuesday. The Holy Monastery Dervent, 96 kilometers southwest of Constanta, is in the village
of Oltina and near the Danube. The monastery is on a spot where four of Saint Andrei’s disciples
were killed about 2,000 years ago. Legend claims that the stone crosses appeared after their deaths
and have healing powers, as does the spring sitting at the end of the orchard here. The Cave and
Monastery of Saint Andrew the Apostle is like a Romanian Bethlehem. It was here that Christianity
first came to Romania. The monastery is located near Ion Corvin village, about 60 kilometers south-
west of Constanta.

Dining
For a Romanian meal, Delfinul in Complex Flamanda serves great ciorba de burta (soup with stom-
ach) and is very inexpensive. Marco Polo on Strada Miercea cel Batran serves good salata de boef,
but can get very crowded on the weekends. The Shaft Restaurant, across from Casa de Cultura,
serves wild game. Ambient and Pronto, both on Boulevard Mamaia, serve good food, as does Les
Barons on Tomis Boulevard, though Les Barons is more expensive. For Italian food, La Socia at
Aprod Purnice number 5 and On Plonje, across from the Yacht Club are the best choices. Pizza Inn
has adequate pizza and good salads, while Al Forno on Mamaia Boulevard serves good pizza.
Scapino on Boulevardul Tomis is elegant and serves good Italian food but is expensive. For Turkish
Dobrogea

food, Apendos on Tomis Boulevard. Off the boulevard, Bad Rock serves great Indian food. New
West, at the intersection of Bulevardul Ferdinand and Mircel Cel Batran offers amazing Lebanese
food and has hookahs for those who like to finish a good meal with flavored tobacco.

Black Sea and the Irish Pub are both bars with patios on the sea, and they serve drinks at average
prices. No Problem in Complex Dacia is crowded and expensive. Disco Max in the Casa de Cultura
serves the under 18 crowd. Megalos on Mamaia Boulevard, across from the university, has reason-
 44 Volunteer Travel Guide

ably priced drinks, a diverse mix of music, and a friendly atmosphere, but it can become crowded.
New Orleans is a two level coffee-house-style establishment with good music and comfy sofas, but
charges a hefty 100,000 lei to sit at a table. Deep and Dark on Tomis Boulevard is expensive and
crowded. Club Phoenix in Tomis Nord has live bands on Saturdays and a good atmosphere, but
gets very smoky.

Lodging
Upscale accommodations are available at the 4-star Royal Hotel on B-dul. Mamaia nr.191 (0241-
545-882). It provides a minibar, air conditioning, and new, clean rooms, plus massage and fitness
services. The 3-star Bulevard Hotel at B-dul. Mamaia nr.294 (0241-831-533) has double rooms with
refrigerators, phone, air conditioning, cable TV and Internet. Hotel services include a Jacuzzi and a
sauna. Capri Hotel on Str. Mircea cel Batran, nr.109 (0241550-993) is also 3 stars and has air con-
ditioning in all rooms, a terrace, bar, billiards, swimming pool, sauna and Jacuzzi. The 3-star Guci
Hotel (0241-695-500) at Str. Rascoala 1907, nr.23, offers similar amenities and has a Mexican
restaurant. The Dobrogea Hotel at B-dul. Alexandru Lapuaneanu nr.194 (0241-655-503) has 2-star
triples, doubles and suites, and accepts payment by credit card. The Tibotours Hotel at B-dul.
Mamaia, nr.292, (0241-831-031), a 1 star establishment, offers 40 triple rooms and 10 doubles.

Mangalia

Location
Mangalia, Romania’s second most important sea port, is a bustling town at the southernmost coastal
edge of Romania, near the Bulgarian border. Trains going to Constanta (the 800 line) continue on to
Mangalia in the summer time, but maxi taxis from the train station in Constanta are faster. Exiting the
train station, turn right and walk parallel to the tracks. The Mangalia vans are at the pastiserie and
leave every 20 minutes from about 6 am to 8 or 9 pm. Their first stop in Mangalia is at the train sta-
tion, the second at the “farmacie,” across from the archeology museum, and the third at the posta.
Get out at the posta if staying at the President Hotel. Note: Avoid the full sized busses, they will stop
in every village between Constanta and Mangalia and test even God’s patience.

For information about leaving Mangalia by train, the “Agentie de Voiaj” (train travel agency) is in the
main post office. Maxi taxis to other parts of Romania are relatively frequent, especially in the sum-
mer. SimpaTrans’ (0241- 754-520) office is across from the train station in Mangalia. Maxi taxis to
Bucharest are cheaper but not usually faster than trains, and they can also be quite hot and miser-
able.

Currently there are no official services traveling to Bulgaria from Mangalia. Nor are there any ferry
services to Russia or Turkey. Trains to Istanbul go from Bucuresti. The Bulgarian border however,
is a short walk from Vama Veche, and the nearest town in Bulgaria is 6km from there. Hitch-hiking
may be possible and the border isn’t very busy.

Attractions
Dobrogea

The most obvious attraction in Mangalia is the beach. Every side street traveling east of the main
road goes there. At night, the promenade along the beach is busy with bars and music but it is rel-
atively quiet compared to its neighbors. The real discos are found to the north in other resorts.
Saturn is a suburb of Mangalia and within walking distance to the north and on the beach. Mangalia
does have two movie theaters. The indoor movie theater is on Str. Rozelor just east of the central
roundabout. The summertime outdoor movie theater is south of the roundabout on Soseaua
Constantei beside the archeology museum.
 45

Locals take great pride in the ancient history of their town—many restaurants, a school and the arche-
ology museum are named Callatis, the ancient Greek name for the city. The (small) Callatis
Archaeological Museum is the main best place to see Greek and Roman artifacts in the city. It is
located south of the roundabout on the main road Soseaua Constantei. There is a small admission
fee. The basement of the President Hotel is another place to check out archaeology, this time for
free. The foundations of an ancient Roman building are preserved there. The town mosque is locat-
ed in the center of town near the President Hotel. Inside is an English description of the mosque,
and outside is a cool, shady yard. The people are very friendly and welcome visitors of all religions
and ethnicities.

Mangalia’s town days, called “Seven Days, Seven Nights” or “Festival Callatis,” happens about the
15th of August every year. Bleachers and chairs are set up on the dike and an oyster shaped stage
is pulled out into the sea to accommodate performances for almost every major Romanian band.

The ever popular Vama Veche is just south of Mangalia. Vama is a cultural anomaly in Romania,
described by many as a hippie beach. Thousands of young Romanians visit every summer, listen to
good music, sunbathe nude, drink, dance and just have fun. Maxitaxis run from Mangalia to Vama
every half hour or hour. Boarding is at any of the southbound stops in town.

Dining
New restaurants are constantly opening in Mangalia. In the summer, fast food restaurants and ter-
race bars open on the beach. Year round restaurants are plentiful along the main road between the
center and the roundabout. The best pizza is at Casa Rosemary south of the roundabout. It is the
one with big windows. Beside the President Hotel is Café Del Mare (with the tree trunk outside lit up
with Christmas lights year round), which serves decent American style food accompanied by an
ocean view. The Irish Pub is a bit expensive and often has slow service, but it still tends to be a
Peace Corps favorite because of the variety on the menu: Mexican, Italian, Romanian and, of course,
Irish pub food. It is on Str. 1 December 1918, and it is small and brown with a green, neon three leaf
clover. Continue south past the posta on the main street to another small roundabout at the end.
Turn left and it is on the corner of a block building. For all 90210 fans, the Peach Pit is south of the
roundabout, across from Rosemary’s. It is an ordinary Romanian cofetaria. The largest grocery
store is Coral and is located at the end of the main street, a several minute walk past the post office.
It shares a porch entrance with a fast food restaurant called “El Greco.” The market is across the
street from the “primaria” (city hall), behind the shops at the head of the pedestrian street Str. Vasile
Alecsandri.

Accomodations
The preferred hotel among volunteers is the Hotel President (0241 755 861). It is located on the
beach in the center of town. The side street across from the post office, Str. Oituz, leads there; the
hotel is past the mosque and is the large white building on the left. The other major hotel in town is
the tall Hotel Mangalia (0241 752 052) located at the end of Str. Rozelor going east towards the sea
from the roundabout. The Hotel Zenit (0241 751 645), Astra (0241 751 673), and Orion (0241 751
Dobrogea

156) are three smaller, brightly painted hotels on the beach promenade to the north of Hotel
President. Call for current, seasonal prices.
 46 Volunteer Travel Guide

Tulcea

Location
Tulcea, and Dobrogea in general, is one of the more isolated parts of the country. There is now an
IC train, the ‘Blue Arrow’ which leaves Bucharest once a day and goes to Tulcea in a little less than
5 hours. If not traveling by the fast train, the way to go is by maxi taxi from Bucuresti.

Navigation around Tulcea is like navigation against a big ‘T’ set against the southern shore of the
Danube. The road going east from Galati is Strada Isaccei, and this street goes from the train sta-
tion or bus station towards center, depending (you can also follow the faleza along the river as well).
Strada Isaccei is Tulcea’s main road. Strada Babadag is the intersecting road (coming north from
Constanta). These two roads meet at the Civic Plaza

Attractions
Tulcea is a town set on seven hills against the southern shore of the Danube. Because it rests almost
like an amphitheatre, it’s easy to re-orient after losing oneself following one of the man small cobble-
stone roads leading away from the city center. Downhill almost always leads to familiar territory. An
interesting walk is up to the War Memorial. The monument overlooks the city and is only a ten-
minute walk from the Hotel Delta, albeit uphill. The memorial itself is worth the trip, and a beautiful
view of the town, the big dip in the river, and the beginning of the delta comes as a pleasant added
extra.

The region has a rich store of archeological history. Tulcea was founded as a Greek port, later named
‘Aegyssus’ by the Romans. Perched next to the War Memorial is the Archeological Museum, which
has among other artifacts, an esteemed collection of old Roman and Greek coins. Other museums
in the town are: the Danube Delta Museum with interesting flora and fauna exhibits plus an aquari-
um downstairs, the Art Museum with a nice permanent collection upstairs and traveling exhibits
downstairs, and the Folklore Museum, which explores the cultural diversity of the area (Romanian
Ukrainian, Greek, Turkish, Italian, Bulgarian, and more) through exhibits on folk tradition and handi-
craft.

Mid-August brings Tulcea’s largest festival, the International Folk Festival. It lasts about a week
and the 15th of the month is the biggest day. Thousands of people trek to Tulcea to participate in the
event. Stages are built on boats, and musicians play on along the faleza (boardwalk along the river),
which is lined with beer tents. The party can be great fun, although the scene can become uncom-
fortably crowded at night for the main acts.

Tulcea is the place from which to launch a trip into the Delta. The Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve
Administration (ARBDD) has an information center in the downstairs of its building on the river, near
the train station. Also there is an ANTREC booth offering information on pension stays with local fam-
ilies in the Delta. In general, tourism companies are not difficult to find, and they often take initiative
and seek out people carrying backpacks and looking like tourists along the faleza.
Dobrogea

There is a small town, Tudor Vladirmirescu, across the river from Tulcea. Not much is there but a 2
minute, $.25 ferry across river will score a panoramic view of Tulcea’s waterfront. Two boat com-
panies have boats waiting on the faleza to conduct the ferry ride. It’s an interesting detour and a fun
way to spend a half-hour. .
 47

Tulcea has a number of places to see a film. There are boards describing the movies showing at the
town’s center intersection, just a few steps from the Hotel Delta. Cinema Patria on Str. Babadag
shows filmas at at 1,3,5,7,and 9. The town’s largest theater is Cinema Select – a disco that turns
itself into a theater for afternoon films.
Sala Mica is another small theatre in the same building as the Cinema Select, but upstairs. It seats
about 20 people and feels like a small private theater. Buy tickets in the front; the entry is in the alley
on the right.

Dining
There are no spectacular restaurants in Tulcea, but the town does offer several decent options.
Select serves good food that’s well priced and has a terrace. Select is a 2-minute walk from the Hotel
Delta. La Caluda is a great shaorma/kebab place in front of Piata Veche (on Strada Isaccei mid-
way between the Gara and the Hotel Delta), and is open until 2 a.m. The owner constantly complains
that they’re not making money, which is understandable with the way they stuff their sandwiches. Da
Tino Pizzeria, across from the Cinema Select downtown, recently opened and is GOOD! The pizza
chef twirls dough as though he was raised in Chicago’s Italian neighborhoods. The pizzas are big
and have a crispy thin crust. Marinarul has good food and is open 24 hours. It has with 4 pool tables
upstairs and an outside patio. It’s a bit far away but 25,000 lei should be sufficient taxifare to go
there.

For just drinks, there are a plethora of beer tents and terraces open in the summer time. Carrul Cu
Bere is below the Hotel/Restaurant Select and hidden by ivy and offers seating on outside terrace in
the summer months. Club 21 has a great terrace that overlooks the Danube; its marked by the yel-
low awning up the street up from the Art Museum. Rolion is a bar covered by a red awning next to
the Gara on the faleza. It has good food in addition to the drinks and a nice patio scene in the sum-
mer.

Piata Veche is the old Ukrainian Market on the south side of Strada Isaccei walking from the Gara
towards the Hotel Delta. The larger Piata Noua is about the same distance from the Hotel Delta as
Veche, but located south on Strada Pacii (another minute past the Restaurant Select). Fresh fruits
and vegetables are available in season at both markets in season. Piata Noua is also filled with small
grocery stores and clothing kiosks. The ‘Visa’ is the closest and best supermarket nearby. It is set
in the middle of town next to a good cafeteria, 1 minute from the Hotel Delta

Accomodations
A number of hotels serve Tulcea. Hotel Delta is perhaps the best one, built neighboring the Danube.
The hotel has an indoor swimming pool, a fitness center and an excellent restaurant. It is a popular
place for wedding receptions, graduation parties, etc. – be warned. Hotel Rex, built in 2003, seems
pretty swank and is perched on Str. Babadag a 5 minute walk from the town center. Rooms still
should be able to accommodate a river view though. Hotel Europolis is the basic mid-range hotel
located on Str. Pacii, close to Piata Noua. There’s a travel agency downstairs as well as a currency
exchange. A decent restaurant too is Hotel Select, also built in 2003. The Select was long known
as a restaurant but building hotels seems to be the new fad in Tulcea right now. The restaurant is
Dobrogea

one of the better ones in town with a nice second-story terrace we usually use in the summer months.
 48

List of Festivals
A determined traveller could probably plan half a year solely around festivals in Romania; there are
just so, so many. Below we have listed a few, but there are many many more, as each city and many
villages have their own annual “City Days” festival.

Cluj-Napoca
Each weekend in the month of May, it seems Cluj is one big party. There is the city-days festival,
beer festivals, and others.

In the fall, Cluj hosts the famous Ursus Beer Festival.

Around the end of May or beginning of June each year is the Transylvania International Film Festival;
check www.tiff.ro for information.

For more specific information about these festivals www.sapteseri.ro (English and Romanian) and
www.clujinfo.ro (Roma-nian only) are good references.

Focsani
Vrancea is known throughout Romania for its wine. On the last weekend in October, Thursday
through Sunday is the Vrancea Wine Festival. The festival offers regional and national crafts, local
wine, food booths, carnival rides and games. Every evening is folk singing and dancing.
Romanian pop musicians perform and the town holds a pageant for harvest queen. There are
poetry competitions and vin-culture expositions. The festival is a popular one in the region.

Lugoj
Lugoj hosts three festivals each year. In the (season) are the Beer Festival, Wine Festival, and the
Harvest Festi-val. Here are popular parties with plenty of food, drink, traditional music and dancing.

Mangalia
Mangalia’s town days, called “Seven Days, Seven Nights” or “Festival Callatis,” happens about the
15th of August every year. Bleachers and chairs are set up on the dike and an oyster shaped stage
is pulled out into the sea to accommodate performances for almost every major Romanian band.

Miercurea Ciuc
The Pentecostal Pilgrimage to Sumuleu Monastery brings over 300,000 people to Ciuc each spring
about six weeks after easter.

Ciuc hosts many spring and summer festivals, all overflowing with the local Ciuc Beer and graced by
talented folk dancers and excellent local bands.

Odorheiu Secuiesc
The Leisure and Tourism Fair is during the first week of May and features businesses related to
tourism from all over Romania and Eastern Europe.

The Craftsmen's Market in June brings local artisans to display and sell their work.
 49 Volunteer Travel Guide

The trade-show style October Fair provides a forum for businesses in the area to advertise their serv-
ices.

Hurezu
Hurezu is a village west of Ramnicu Valcea and holds a Ceramics Festival every summer the first
weekend of June.

Sibiu
There are several wonderful festivals in Sibiu. The city hosts the Medieval Festival in mid-late August
and the Pottery Festival in early September. The city web site www.sibiu.ro/en/primaria.htm has
more specific in-formation.

Sibiu is also the proud host of The ASTRA Film Festival, which shows a variety of documentary and
anthropological films biennially, in October on even numbered years; information is available at
www.astrafilm.ro.

Sighetu Marmatie
Sighet hosts its Winter Festival on December 27-30. The festival is truly unique and showcases folk
dancing, tra-ditional fashion, and music. People come from villages all around bringing all kinds of
festive masks, and the cele-bration is city-wide.

Sighisoara
At the end of July, Sighisoara holds an enormous Medieval Festival that attracts visitors from all over
Romania and foreign travelers as well.

In general, spring and summer are the best times to visit when the city hosts a number of popular
Events such as artisan fairs, traditional dance exhibitions, and local theater.

Tulcea
Mid-August brings Tulcea's largest festival, the International Folk Festival. It lasts about a week and
the 15th of the month is the biggest day. Thousands of people trek to Tulcea to participate in the
event. Stages are built on boats, and musicians play on along the faleza (boardwalk along the river),
which is lined with beer tents. The party can be great fun, although the scene can become uncom-
fortably crowded at night for the main acts.

Vatra Dornei
Each year around Valentine's day, Vatra hosts their winter festival. During the festival the town's pop-
ulation dou-bles in order to enjoy live music, ski competitions, and other festivities.