Internal Technical Development Check Sheet

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Babylon Group
2B/1,Darussalam Road ,Mirpur ,Dhaka
Requirements
Warehouse, Fabric & Materials Storage Control
Raw materials receive with proper receive documnents i.e. PI, Challan, Invoice
etc.
Raw materials should keep in Quratine area before Inspection.
Inventory of the goods with proper records.
3 days stock Capacity at the store
Accessories inspection should 10% of receive Quantity for all customers, AQL
1.5 for H&M and George, AQL 2.5 for VF Asia and Perryellis. IF fails 15%
goods need to be inspected .
In house accessories testing report i.e. colour fastness to wash, Nikel test,
Color bled test.
All approved trim cards /PO sheet are available to the Inspector .
Roll /Batch /Lot no should be mentioned at the roll.
Prepare Shade Group & Shade bands for all buyers .
Color shade checking (According to approved shade standard, end to end,

side to side , Roll to roll shading )
Fabric Inspection should follow 4 point system of at least 10% of receive

quantity for all buyers considering 28 point as pass result except ( H&M -TC
13 point + & cotton 18+,Perry Ellis 20,Vf -24+ will be considered as fail
result). Shrinkage tolerance for woven fabric is 3% (+,-) for all buyers, and
for knit fabric it is( +,-) 5%. Shade Blanket wash for all buyers & additionally
non wash for H&M. Colour continuty card & Bowing test (order wise) for all
buyers .
Rejects goods keeping area, left over area and non confirming area should be
lockable and record need to be avalable in place.
All raw materials need to be kept buyer wise, rack wise with proper
identification no & well described Bin Card.
FIFO system of raw materials delivery with Proper records.
Pareto analysis & top 5 defect analysis.
Humidity kept under 60% by using dehumidifiers, fans, heat, etc & proper
records need to be kept.
Visual colour evaluation of trims and bulk fabric need to be done in Light box
against colour standard (Light requirments are A Light, UV Light ,TL83, TL84,
D65, CWF)
All rolls are covered /Protected by poly from dust, Sun light, stain etc.
5S audits need to be done at least once in a month & audit results must have
with a defined goal and development plan.There should be training records
for 5's.
Sufficient space
Need proper ventilation for fabric , accessories & ctn warehouse
Supplier selection & Evaluation
All record must keep 1 years from the shipment date &
broken needle ercord sh0uld keep 6 years .
All organic materials should be kept in separate rack/place.
Sharp tools control policy should be maintained properly.
Internal lab test requirement
GSM, Rubbing test, Colour Fastness to wash etc.
On site trained technician.
Work Instruction or SOP for Rubbing test , Colour Fastness to wash.
Sample section
Samples section required to have equiped with relevant machines.
Need to conduct Pre-Production meeting for all new styles and record keeping i
The sample room need to have guideline (Tech pack, PO sheet,
measurements chart/ sketch sheet, etc. for production for each order.
Sample inspection report.
Shrinakage test report.
Product Risk assesment record.
Metal check report.
Marker printer calibration 100cmX100cm CHECK daily & keep records.
Tech packs needs translated into local language & needs communicated to
all concerned.
Technicians will evaluate & make report for all samples.
The facility should use mannequins to fit samples prior to sending to buyer &
dummy fitting report
Pattern and Marker checking with records. Maker / checker's name, signature
& date.
All hard patterns distributed to the production floor with pattern maker /
checker's name , signature & date.
Development patterns need to be saved in different folder by the name of VF.
Sharp tools ( Needle, Scissor, Cutter, Zimlet, Screw Driver etc.) control system
should be tagged with central account.
Patterns must be amended for different shrinkage bands to control

measurements. Record must keep.
Sample Retention & disposition record.
Accessories Inventory Record.
Cutting Section
Fabric relaxation system for Spandex (24 ,48,72 Hours depends on the fabric
composition ) & keep proper record .
Fabric needs unrolled by the relax M/c for every order .
Markers prepared efficiently with minimum wastage. Record Must.
The lighting level adequate over the cutting tables.
If fabric is within one shade it will be cut in a single lay. In case of mixed up
shade facility should use paper separators for every roll being spread.
Fabric width never be less than markers width.
Spreading fabric with reasonable ply height e.g (Lay of T,C fabric is 300 lay
& ply height 3 inch & Lay of CVC fabric is 300 lay & ply height 2 inch ).
Weights & clamps used over the marker to secure plies while cutting.
For manual cutting ensure 8 inch Knife.
Cut accuracy audit need to be performed for ensuring accuracy of panels

(top/middle/bottom)
100% cut pannel inspection.
PP meeting record for test cutting .
Knife Replacement record.
All small parts need to be cut with Secure band knife M/c.
Numbering & bundling area need to be separed
Visual instruction and relevant SOP need present both in English & in local
language.
There should be Preventive Maintenance Plan/Schedule in place. Show

updated plan vrs actual.
There should be quality improvement efforts with quality meetings, defects

Summaries, pareto analyses and follow up (Follow PPA SOP) activities.
House keeping & 5s audit report
Cutting Approval sample need hang on workplace.
WIP will not more than 1 days if no value addition like print, embroidery, wash
etc. If products are with value addition, WIP remains for 2 days at best.
Sharp tools control policy
White colour parts should be cover by poly/separation.
Sewing section
PP meeting report on new styles with attendance record of participants & pp
sample reports need availabe
Pilot Run procedure on new styles before Bulk starts & Show reports.
1st outputed bundle review & report.
The concern should follow minimum requirement during the production .
Visual ( Approved sample ,Tech Pag ,mock-ups, sketches or pictures)

showing construction detail clearly displayed on each operation for the
running style & in local language
Seam-sealing / down / laser / bonding / all sewing operations process will

follow bulletine.
There should be checking system for all operation by QC like In line
inspection, end line inspection,Trafic Light checking system & Mesurement
system .
The factory need have rejected pcs/bundle follow up procedure.
Segregation of defective garments in bins or boxes etc.
There should be processed measurements done daily considering tolerances
with calibrated meas. Tape. Proper record must have.
Approved sample (with signature & date) need present in sewing floor/line
for each running style.
Product spec & approved trimcards will available on the line for each running
style
Broken needle record kept marked with Date/Time , Order no, Needle, Action
taken, Supervisor sign.
Sample responsible will inspect the first complete garments at sewing.
Product Quality ( Check 5 pcs at random of first output) - PASS for Visual /
Major Defects.
Preventive Maintenance Plan/Schedule in place for Daily, weekly, Monthly or

periodicaly. Show updated plan vrs actual.
Quality Improvement efforts with Quality meetings, Defects Summaries,

Pareto Analyses and Follow up & Monthly 5s audit etc.
The facility should have on site IE & planning department .
Production lines well balanced and set up in systematic process, without

bottlenecks by the IE department & Maximum 1 Day WIP is alloable.
The workers using Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) relevant to the area.
Effective inventory system at sewing sub -store as like as central store.
Excess /Rejects accessories must be back to the central store .
QA/QC department have an independent reporting structure .
Visual records to show operator's hourly production.
AQL inspection system (Level 2, AQL 1.5 )
Key point measurement of 3 garments per size ( Length, Sleeve Length,

Chest, Hem, Shoulder. Bottoms: Waist, Front Rise, Back Rise, In seam/Out
seam).If fail, 3 pcs garments need to check again.
Visual and relevant SOP present both in English & local in language in place.
Fusing section
Temperature and bonding strength are checked every 4 hours by
temperature strips or digital/ analogue calibrated temperature checking
device (thermocouple). Reports needs available in place.
Fusing check report.
Shrinkage report.
lot wise before fusing & after fusing record.
Button attach
All buttons must attached with lockstitch machine.
If operator off the machine for any reason for a certain time, he will do the
mock up while starting the work again in the machine.
Pull test
Pull test after 2 Hours , H&M 3 (90N, 10 sec)
Visual and relevant SOP present both English & local language
Snap Button
Snap /rivet Attachment machines must be pneumatic and not manual.
Technical Data Sheet must be available at the machine.
Physical standard (Mock up ) of the positioning must be available at the

machine.
Pinch Gauge testing or pinch thickness must be done by trained staff.
All machines must be positioned on a Gridded Floor to allow for the capture
of any spilt parts.
Finishing & Pressing

Pressing heads, pads, and supporting structure need to clean daily
Pressing standard at place.
After pressing 1 hours Cooling with record.

Inspesction report & defect repairing record.
100% measurement record on Critical process (Length, Sleeve Length, Chest,
Hem, Shoulder. Bottoms: Waist, Front Rise, Back Rise, In seam/Out seam &
out of tolarance record
All packaging labels are stored securely and independently by style size and
colour and issued/used on a style, size and colour basis.
Size, colour, order wise Ironing, folding, Packing etc.
Excess /Reject accessories back to central store.
All accessories are attached before metal detection.
100 % metal detection of the goods with 9 point check system.

Hourly basis check with proper record keeping.
If product fails to pass through detection system, ensure re-inspection of the

goods & ensure keeping the reject goods at the metal contaminated box with
proper record .
Callibration record & all Inspection record must keep 6 years from the
shipment .
All the goods keep in 1 hour Quarantine area (1 Hour keeping area)
There should be approved (sign & date) packing samples,Tech pack, or PO
sheet for each running style present in Finishing section.
100% presentation check & hourly lot pass report & packing check report
according to the sample ,Tech pack & trims card.
100% barcode checking by the barcode scanning device

Net weight & gross weight measured by digital weight machine .
Quality Improvement efforts with Quality meetings, Defects Summaries,
Pareto Analyses and Follow up
5S audits done at least once/month & need to show results and plan for each
area.
The factory has sufficient well equipped inspection room.
Internal pre-final or final report by the concern GPQ ( (Level 2, AQL 2.5
for Major & 4.0 for minor )
Master File including PO, fabric /yarn standard, trims card, wash approval ,
print approval, specification sheet, product claims documentation, pilot
run/size set, sample production records, risk assessment report, red/green
seal fit comments etc. have to have a facility in FCCA audit.
Housekeeping need to be free of colour contamination, overumping, WIP,

privious style's accessories at floor etc.
Visual and relevant SOP present both in English & in local language.
Finished Goods area

Finished Goods should kept in rack or on pallet
Finished Goods should be kept with buyer wise identification .
All carton should be closed at the finished goods area.
Humidity control by ventilation or fans/heat or dehumidifier (Less then 60% )

All goods are dry and clean when packed.
Prevention of mould part of the production process according to Supplier
portal/ Logistics/ Packing instructions/ Mould prevention
Sharp tools control policy for all section .

Pest control
Pest control intrnally or externally from certified company. We are doing pest
control periodically ( 6 month )
Daily check list of pest control monitoring.
Insect net to be used in finishing area/ packing area/ metal free zone and to
close/cover doors and windows .
Insect killer device avaiable and always functional. Maintenance regularly is mu

Management system
Document control system (Version no, date of issue, revision date )
Critical path management (CP) for each PO and analysis of CP performance

for improvement.
All sample & sample related document keep 10 years & Broken
needle record keep 6 years
KPI ( For all deparment ) , Departmentwise goal & Goal follow up data.
workin flow chart must know all the employees.
Visual and relevant SOP present both in English & in local language.
Lighting in all areas like all inspction area 1000 + Lux,

Needle point 1000+Lux , Cutting 600-800 Lux, Iron Table, Fusing, Marking
table & Packing area 600-800 Lux.
Management review record & Internal audit periodically ( monthly

or 3 Monthly )
Goods/Raw metirials disposition record.

Facility requirement
Factory perimiter with fencing wall.
Wastage area must be identified like Glass keeping area, Poly keeping area.
Visitor in out resistar
Personel locker for each employee.
Access control for Packing, Store & Finished goods area.
9 Point Inspection report by the security.
Lighting in all areas like all inspction area 1000 + Lux,

Needle point 1000+Lux , Cutting 600-800 Lux, Iron Table, Fusing, Marking
table & Packing area 600-800 Lux.
Basic Fire safety, Fist aid, Drinking water, Health safety policy & Environment
policy, (EIA) etc.
Employee's changing room.

Pin ,Drawing Pins, Staples & Metal staples must not be used any part ot the
manufactruing unit .
ETI base code & protector line must be hanged on the facility .
People Management
Training Plan & feedback system for for all QC & Operator .
On Job training for all employees.
Mensall test for all employee.

Maintenance
Planned preventative maintenance (PPM) program that covers all equipment

with maintaining records.
Workshops/maintenance room must have a barrier across the doorway and

rubber floor mat located outside the door.
Calibration of all measuring equipment and testing equipment (e.g.

balance ,tape, light box, pull test ,metal detector , fusing , fabric inspection,
snap attach )
Calibration master list or matrix of equipment .
Spot cleaning
Spot cleaning record.
Spot cleaner must use PPE & industrial eye shower need to have at the area.
Spot will be removed only by water & detergent for kids item .
House keeping should be Ok.
Critical NC 's for all buyer
Critical NC's defination : Failure to meet a product safety standard or a legal

standard; where this failure puts the customer integrity at risk.
Skilled sample room technician available and capable of modification of patterns when required and
responsible for pattern handover to production floor with record available (Critical )
All fabrics / yarns / trims / accessories organized and stored indoors, off of floors, and remain covered /
protected until ready for use and has required space( Critical )
Inventory system (Fabric & Accessories) at the warehouse & proper ventilation
system at warehouse, Finished Goods area . (Critical )
Pest control by net or pest killer device. (Critical )
There should be a proper system to record broken / damaged needles, tag

gun needles & hand stitching needle etc. at both sample room and production
floor.(Critical )
Adequate systems used to isolate defective and / or repaired products. (Critical )
Sharp objects such as trimmers and scissors effectively tracked e.g. that they are
permanently attached to the machines during production and there is regular
monitoring, so missing of 'attached' sharp objects will not go unnoticed.(Critical )
Factory have inspection system at inline and end line. Factory measure complete
garments. Completed garments are measured at least at Level 1 at AQL 1.5 or 20
pieces minimum from total production covering color & size daily all through the day
and records kept. (Critical )
QA/QC department have an independent reporting structure & all QA/ QCs trained
regularly.
(Critical )
There should be a 100% final checking after finishing and is there a random audit
done after finishing. There also should be a 100% measurement for key points like
Length, Sleeve Length, Chest, Hem, Shoulder, Bottoms: Waist, Front Rise, Back Rise,
Inseam/Outseam) & audit done after finishing.
- Records are available. (Critical )
Factory conduct final audit based on AQL inspection level 2, AQL 2.5 for major & 4
for Minor
of buyer.There is pre-final inspection after packing with acceptable sampling method
both in size & color for all POs. After 80%-100% packed, QA will do prefinal
inspection based on buyer's requirement .( AQL inspection level 2 ,AQL 2.5 for major
& 4 for Minor ) (Critical )
Factory has a sufficient & proper metal detection process for all the products &
Metal detection is Mandatory for all products .(Critical )
Factory use lockstitch for button attach Mandatory for childrenswear dept. 26, 24,
33, score 10-0 and adult 10-5-0 hence scoring dept. 26, 24, 33, score 10-0 and adult
10-5-0 (Critical )
Snap/Rivet (or any metal fastener) attaching process & machinery in the factory.
There should be arrangement for disposal of non-conforming goods & materials- Red
Tag area is Physically designated and marked, labeled or tags Area for Non-
conforming goods & materials which are easily visible for all such nonconforming
products.
-Found Red Tagged/ designated and marked areas in metal detector area, pull testing
area for buttons/snaps/rivet or any other fastener, button attaching/ lock stitching
area, snap/riveting or any metal fastener attaching area
- Found all non-confirming goods/materials stored separately.( Critical )
Factory maintain chemical test for printing items

( For childrenswear for US dept. 26, 24, 33) For Asda/ George UK : How is chemical
control process in line with REACH chemical policy.(Critical )
Pull test report hourly (90 N 10 sec) (Critical )
Finished carton must be close & access control system at the finished
goods area .(Critical )
Light requirmnet A Light,UV Light ,TL83,TL84,D65,CWF Must be callibrated (Critical )

Critical NC's defination :
Failure to meet a product safety standard or a legal standard; where this

failure puts the customer integrity at risk.
Example : Inventory system (Fabric & Accessories) at the warehouse & proper
ventilation system at warehouse, Finished Goods area . (Critical )
Major NC's defination :
A deficiency which requires prompt attention to prevent a potential product safety failure or legal issue
from arising; where this failure may potentially put customers or brand integrity at risk
Example : Though plant tour it was noted that factory attached all finishing label like hang tag,
packing sticker etc after metal pass at metal free area. During plant tour it was observed that the
garments cannot pass through metal detector due to RFID hang tag but it was not discussed with
Tesco concern person .
Minor NC's defination :
A deficiency which requires attention to improve Good Manufacturing Practice standards, Due Diligence
documentation (our ability to defend a legal challenge) or to achieve compliance with Tesco standards
Example : Factory does not check cut panel against master pattern for solid fabric, they used to
check the cut panel by master pattern for strip fabric.
Grading of Tesco system.

Tesco refers two types of audit
1.Approval audit 2.Maintenance audit
Approval audit : a) 0 critical non-conformances b)0-3 major non-conformances c)There is no limit on the
number of minor non-conformances
Not approved : a)1 or more critical non-conformance b) 4 or more major non-conformances c)35 or more
total non-conformances where at least 2 are major
2.Maintenance audit
Blue Outstanding ( 0-4 minor non-conformances only )
Green Good (5-14 minor non-conformances only )
Amber or Double Amber Needs Improvement a) 0 critical non-conformances b)
0-3 major non-conformances c) 15-34 minor non-conformances d) No more than
34 non-conformances in total )
Red Stop Supply a)1 or more critical non-conformance b) 4 or more
major non-conformances c) 35 or more total non-conformances where at
least 2 are majors )
Audit rating system of Perry Elis

A-Very good ( Score >90% mark is considered as a A Grade )
B-Good ( 75-89% marke is considered as a B grade )
C-Acceptable but need lots of improvement (55-74% score is considerd as a C grade )
D-Very Poor (score < 54 mark is considerd as a D grade )
Comments
Highest requirement by tesco.

Standard requirement for all buyers
George requirement.

Standard requirement for all buyer
Highest requirement of Vf asia

Shrinkage 2%

Highest requirement by VF, WM & Sains Burry
Highest requirement by VF
60% Humidity is the Highest requirement VF
Highest requirement by Walmart

Highest requirement by H&M
Highest requirement TESCO



Highest requirement of perry Ellis AQL 2.5 Level 1 for VF asia

Highest requirement by tesco.
Highest requirement Pery Ellis

Highest requirement Sains Burry

Highest requirement of VF Asia
Highest requirement of Tesco

Highest requirement of Sainsburry





Highest requirement
Different buyer have different requirement

but H&M is the Highest requirement

but VF Asia is the Highest requirement


but George is the Highest requirement


but VF asia is the Highest requirement
Different buyers have different
requirement
but H&M is the pioneer.






but Tesco & George is the Highest
requirement


but Tesco is the Highest requirement

but VF asia is the Highest requirement

but (Level 2,AQL 1.5 ) is the Highest
requirement





The is the Highest requirement




but Perry Elis is the Highest requirement


but Li Fung is the Highest requirement

but Tesco,George is the Highest
requirement


but Gorege is the highest requirement of
Record keeping Callibration record & all
Inspection record (6 Years ) & Tesco
require 1 years for needle record but
broken needle record keeping for 6 years &
also sample records for 10 years .




Tesco AOL 1.5 Major & Minor 4.o
Standard requirement for all buyers.
Standard requirement for all buyers.



but highest requirement by VF
Different buyer have different requirement.

but Highest requirement by Tesco.

but Highest requirement by H&M



but Highest requirement by Tesco.






but Sainsburry is the Highest requirement











but H&M, Tesco is the Highest requirement
Highest requirement by H&M




Critical by George
Critical by George
Critical by all customers.

Critical by Tesco
Critical by George
Critical by George
All buyers critical.
Critical by George
Critical bt George , H&M

Critical by George
Critical by george
Critical by George
Critical by george and perryellis.


AQL 2.5 Level 1 for VF asia

Internal Technical Development Check Sheet

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Sl No

Roll /Batch /Lot no should be mentioned at the roll.

Prepare Shade Group & Shade bands for all buyers .

Color shade checking (According to approved shade standard, end to end,

Fabric Inspection should follow 4 point system of at least 10% of receive

Development patterns need to be saved in different folder by the name of VF.

Patterns must be amended for different shrinkage bands to control

Markers prepared efficiently with minimum wastage. Record Must.

The lighting level adequate over the cutting tables.

Cut accuracy audit need to be performed for ensuring accuracy of panels

There should be Preventive Maintenance Plan/Schedule in place. Show

There should be quality improvement efforts with quality meetings, defects

House keeping & 5s audit report

Cutting Approval sample need hang on workplace.

1st outputed bundle review & report.

The concern should follow minimum requirement during the production .

Visual ( Approved sample ,Tech Pag ,mock-ups, sketches or pictures)

Seam-sealing / down / laser / bonding / all sewing operations process will

Sample responsible will inspect the first complete garments at sewing.

Preventive Maintenance Plan/Schedule in place for Daily, weekly, Monthly or

Quality Improvement efforts with Quality meetings, Defects Summaries,

The facility should have on site IE & planning department .

Production lines well balanced and set up in systematic process, without

Visual records to show operator's hourly production.

AQL inspection system (Level 2, AQL 1.5 )

Key point measurement of 3 garments per size ( Length, Sleeve Length,

lot wise before fusing & after fusing record.

Snap /rivet Attachment machines must be pneumatic and not manual.

Technical Data Sheet must be available at the machine.

Physical standard (Mock up ) of the positioning must be available at the

Finishing & Pressing

After pressing 1 hours Cooling with record.

Size, colour, order wise Ironing, folding, Packing etc.

Excess /Reject accessories back to central store.

All accessories are attached before metal detection.

100 % metal detection of the goods with 9 point check system.

If product fails to pass through detection system, ensure re-inspection of the

100% barcode checking by the barcode scanning device

Housekeeping need to be free of colour contamination, overumping, WIP,

Finished Goods area

Humidity control by ventilation or fans/heat or dehumidifier (Less then 60% )

Sharp tools control policy for all section .

Daily check list of pest control monitoring.

Insect killer device avaiable and always functional. Maintenance regularly is mu

Document control system (Version no, date of issue, revision date )

Critical path management (CP) for each PO and analysis of CP performance

workin flow chart must know all the employees.

Lighting in all areas like all inspction area 1000 + Lux,

Management review record & Internal audit periodically ( monthly

Goods/Raw metirials disposition record.

Factory perimiter with fencing wall.

Visitor in out resistar

Personel locker for each employee.

Access control for Packing, Store & Finished goods area.

9 Point Inspection report by the security.

Lighting in all areas like all inspction area 1000 + Lux,

Employee's changing room.

On Job training for all employees.

Mensall test for all employee.

Planned preventative maintenance (PPM) program that covers all equipment

Workshops/maintenance room must have a barrier across the doorway and

Calibration of all measuring equipment and testing equipment (e.g.

Calibration master list or matrix of equipment .

Critical NC 's for all buyer