Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
TOP
BRUSSELS
BRUGES, ANTWERP & GHENT
ANTONY MASON
Top 10 Brussels, The Top 10
Bruges, Antwerp of Everything
& Ghent Highlights
Welcome to Brussels, Bruges, Moments in
Antwerp & Ghent ....................... 5 Belgian History ......................... 40
Exploring Brussels, Bruges, Famous Belgians ......................... 42
Antwerp & Ghent ....................... 6 Belgian Artists.............................. 44
Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Churches ...................................... 46
Ghent Highlights ...................... 12
Art Nouveau Buildings
The Grand Place, in Brussels................................ 48
Brussels.................................... 14
Museums...................................... 50
Muses Royaux des
Art Galleries ................................. 52
Beaux-Arts, Brussels .............. 18
Off the Beaten Track.................... 54
Muse des Instruments
de Musique, Brussels .............. 20 Childrens Attractions .................. 56
Horta Museum, Brussels ............ 22 Performing Arts Venues.............. 58
Comics Art Museum, Brussels... 26 Types of Belgian Beer.................. 60
The Burg, Bruges......................... 28 Things to Buy................................ 62
Two Museums of Bruges ............ 30 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp
& Ghent for Free ...................... 64
Antwerp Cathedral....................... 32
Festivals and Events .................... 66
Rubenshuis, Antwerp .................. 34
Excursions .................................... 68
The Adoration of the
Mystic Lamb, Ghent ................. 36
CONTENTS
Welcome to
Brussels, Bruges,
Antwerp & Ghent
Brussels, capital of Europe, and the three great cities of
Flanders offer an extraordinarily rich spread of rewards.
Fabulous art, trend-setting design and fashion, outstanding
restaurants, some of the worlds best beer and chocolate,
and a heritage that has flourished since the Golden Age.
With this Eyewitness Top 10 guide, its yours to explore.
Clockwise from top: Lier near Antwerp; Blinde Ezelstraat, Bruges; Grand Place, Brussels; Le
Botanique, Brussels; Rodins The Thinker, Brussels; waffles; Comics Art Museum, Brussels
6 Top 10 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
BRUSSELS
La Bourse
Galeries Royales
Saint-Hubert Cathdrale
des Saints
Michel et Parc
Grand Place tram stop
Gudule
Parc de
M
Warande
0 yards 400 Muse des
Instruments de Musique
Key
Muses Royaux
Two-day itinerary des Beaux-Arts
Seven-day itinerary Horta Museum
(2.5 km)
Day 2
MORNING
The Grand Place is dominated by Visit La Bourse (see p16), and walk
Brussels magnificent town hall. via the Place Sainte-Catherine to the
Exploring Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent 7
glise St-Jean-Baptiste au
Bguinage (see p75). Wander the
Place des Martyrs (see p76) on
the way to the Comics Art Museum
(see pp267; closed Mon)
AFTERNOON
Take a tram to the Horta Museum
(see pp223; closed Mon). Wander the
Art Nouveau streets around here.
Design
Museum
Canal trips
Korenlei
Graslei
Sint-
Michielsbrug
Sint-
Baafskathedral
Le i e
GHENT
Seven Days in
Brussels, Bruges,
Ghent and Antwerp Scheldt
GHENT Day 5
MORNING
Take a tram to Ghents
two great art galleries,
MSK and SMAK (see p111;
closed Mon).
AFTERNOON
Walk back across the
Citadelpark to visit the
STAM city museum (see
p110; closed Mon) before
returning to the historic The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is the star
city centre. attraction in the Sint-Baafskathedraal in Ghent.
Exploring Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent 9
ANTWERP Day 6
MORNING
Admire the guildhouses and town
hall in the Grote Markt (see p101),
then walk to Antwerp Cathedral (see
pp345). Visit the Museum Vleeshuis
(see p102; closed MonWed).
AFTERNOON
Visit the Sint-Pauluskerk (see p104),
then continue further north to the FotoMuseum Provincie (FoMu) covers
dockside Museum Aan de Stroom every aspect of photography.
(see p102; closed Mon).
Brussels,
Bruges, Antwerp
& Ghent Highlights
The four great cities of northern Belgium The Grand
share a rich cultural heritage, yet they Place, Brussels
are very different. Each, in its own way, For architectural theatre,
is hugely rewarding not only in cultural the centrepiece of
sights, but also in delightful and Brussels is hard to beat
welcoming places to stay, eat and drink. as it was three centuries
ago (see pp1415).
Roeselare
Roeselare OOST-
OOST-
VLAANDEREN
VLAANDEREN
E4
E403
E403
7
7
E1
E1
Mouscron
Mouscron
E429E429
Tournai
Tournai
T
R A
Musique, Brussels
RAA
A E19 E19
E K MA
UW VE
.
ST
STR
BRO DU
SST
NIE . NEU
TL NT
RUE
LA CH
ING
R
AA
AN
ON IMO
CH SPA
AIM LA
KON
IDS M NSPA AN
B
BL
contains thousands of
TR IDI
RU E
T
AA
WETDE LA LO
instruments (see pp2021). STRA
ZU E DU
AT I
ALE
RU
R. LOM
A AT
R OY
Parc de
AN
DU
Bruxelles
SL
STR
R D B AR ER
STR D KEIZ Warande
RUE
TO G
.
Victor Horta was the original Art EU
R
PER
HER
LE M
Nouveau architect; his own house is an BD.
DE
PS E
HA NC
.
TR
0 metres 500
expression of this and preserved as a
SC EGE
NT R
GE LA
Comics Art
Museum,
Brussels
Dedicated to the comic
strip, this place reveals
all there is to know
about this very Belgian
art form: Tintin and
beyond (see pp267).
Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Highlights 13
The Burg,
Bruges
The old centre of
Bruges is an
architectural gem
a small, intimate
square surrounded
by historic gabled
buildings, each one
embellished with
fascinating detail
(see pp289).
Turnhout
Turnhout
9
9
E1
E1
ANTWERPEN
ANTWERPEN
Beveren
Beveren
Antwerp
Antwerp E313 E313
LierLier GeelGeel
Lokeren
Lokeren
E1 7 E1 7
E1 9
E1 9
Mechelen
Mechelen
A12
A12
Groeningemuseum and
Aalst
Aalst
VLAAMS BRABANT
VLAAMS BRABANT 14 314
E3 E
Leuven
Leuven
Sint-Janshospitaal,
40 E40
Ninove
Ninove
Brussels
Brussels
See See
insetinset
map,map, E4 0
left left E4 0 Tienen
Tienen Bruges
E4 E
11 411 Great Flemish artists of the early
Waterloo
Waterloo
WALLON
WALLON
15th century were among the first to
BRABANT
BRABANT
perfect oil painting. These two
E19
E19
Gembloux
Gembloux collections demonstrate their
extraordinary skills, (see pp3031).
La Louvire
La Louvire
Mons
Mons
Charleroi
Charleroi 0 km
0 km 20 20
0 miles
0 miles 20 20
5 Htel de Ville
The Town Hall was
the first major building
on the Grand Place.
Largely rebuilt since its
15th-century beginnings,
it still has its original
spire, with a statue of St
Michael killing the devil.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C3
Htel de Ville: guided
1 Le Cornet
This elaborate building (No 6) was once the
tours start 2pm Wed,
11am, 3pm & 4pm Sun;
guildhouse of the boatmen. Its adornments include arrive 15 minutes before.
a top storey resembling the stern of a ship (above). 02 548 04 47. Tour: 5.
Maison du Roi (Muse
2 Le Cygne Le Renard
The Swan (No 9) 3 No 7 was a
de la Ville de Bruxelles):
10am5pm TueSun. 02
was rebuilt as a private guildhouse (gildehuis) 279 43 50. Adm: 8.
residence in 1698, but in the prestigious
Maison des Brasseurs
1720 it was acquired by headquarters of
(Muse de la
the Guild of Butchers. It the Guild of Brasserie):
later became a caf, and Haberdashers. A 10am5pm daily. 02
Karl Marx held meetings gilded statue of 511 49 87. Adm: 5
of the German Workers a fox (right) sits
Party here. above the door, There are two
reflecting the famous bar-
buildings old restaurants here
name (Le both pricey,
Renard). but worth it for
their Bruxellois
4 Maison des
Brasseurs
style: Le Roy dEspagne
at No 1, and La Chaloupe
Called lArbre dOr dOr at Nos 2425. Le
(the Golden Tree), the Cygne has a famous
brewers guildhouse restaurant upstairs
(No 10) was designed and the Brasserie
by Guillaume de Bruyn. lOmmegang
It is still used by the downstairs.
Confdration des A tourist office in the
Brasseurs, and houses Htel de Ville is useful
a small museum of for information.
brewing (left).
The Grand Place, Brussels 15
6 Maison du Roi
This medieval- 8 The Tapis
de Fleurs NOT QUITE THE
style Kings House, Every even-numbered REAL THING
built in the 1870s, year for five days in mid- The guildhouses of the
houses the Muse de August, the Grand Place Grand Place are built
la Ville de Bruxelles, a is taken over by a largely in the Flemish
miscellany of city history, massive floral display Renaissance style of
including costumes known as the Carpet the late 16th and early
designed for the 17th centuries. Little of
of Flowers (below).
it actually dates from
Manneken-Pis statue.
this period, however.
On 1314 August 1695,
under the orders of
Louis XIV, French troops
led by Marshal de
Villeroy lined up their
cannons, took aim at
the spire of the Htel
de Ville, and pulverized
the city centre. In
defiance, the citizens
set about reconstructing
the Grand Place, a task
that was completed in
just five years.
1 8 6
RU
3 BO E AU
TE B
R S EU RU
TR RR A E
AA E G R UX MAR
T A S HE CH
M RBE E
AR S
KT
0 GRAND PLACE
GROTE MARKT
5 4 9
7 2
7 Statue of
Everard t 9 Maison
Ducs de
des
0 Maison des
Boulangers
Serclaes Brabant The bakers guildhouse
Everard t Serclaes The south-eastern is coated with symbols,
died on this site in flank of this impressive including six figures
1388 resisting Flemish Neo-Classical building representing the
occupation. Superstitious was originally conceived essential elements
passers-by stroke the (in 1698) as a single of breadmaking. The
limbs of his bronze block of seven units by unusual octagonal
statue (below) for luck. Guillaume de Bruyn. lantern on the roof
is topped by a striking
gilded statue of Fame.
16 Top 10 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
4 Manneken-Pis
MAP B3 corner of Rue de
2 Muse du Costume et
de la Dentelle
MAP C3 Rue de la Violette 12
02 213 44 50 Open 10am5pm
TueSun Adm
This small but rewarding museum
dedicated to historic costume and
lace has a limited but choice
selection of exhibits.
3 La Bourse
MAP B3 Bruxella 1238
7 Maison Dandoy
MAP C3 Rue au Beurre 31
8 Statue
MAP C3
of Charles Buls glise Notre-Dame de Bon Secours
Muses Royaux
des Beaux-Arts
Brussels Royal Museums of the Fine Arts are a tour de force.
Many of the great names in art history are represented here. The
galleries are divided into three integrated parts: the Old Masters
Museum (15th to 18th centuries), the Fin-de-Sicle Museum (19th
and early 20th centuries) and the Magritte Museum. Overall, they
represent one of the greatest and most comprehensive collections
of art from the Low Countries anywhere in the world.
Realism to
Post- 1
Impressionism (Fin-
de-Sicle Museum)
Belgian artists echoed
French art movements,
but applied their own
originality. Social
Realism emanates from
works by Hippolyte
Boulenger; mile Clauss
bucolic scenes reflect
the late-Impressionist
style, Luminism; Henri
Evenepoels Post-
Impressionist style is
redolent of Degas;
James Ensor prefigured
the Expressionists (right).
2 Early
Netherlandish
Painting (Old
Masters Museum)
One of the most precious
parts of the collection:
extraordinary work by
Rogier van der Weyden
(above), Hans Memling,
4 Old Masters Museum
This extraordinarily rich collection spans the
Dirk Bouts and Petrus 15th to the 18th centuries, and includes the Flemish
Christus. The Flemish Primitives and the Golden Age of Rubens, Van Dyck
Primitives perfected the and Jordaens. Although primarily focusing on
technique of oil painting, Belgian art, it also has work by major European
and had a major painters such Claude Lorrain, Tiepolo and Jacques-
influence on Italian art. Louis David (including his Death of Marat).
Muses Royaux des Beaux-Arts 19
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C4 Rue de la
Rgence 3 02 508 32
11 www.fine-arts-
museum.be
Open 10am5pm Tue
Fri, 11am6pm SatSun
Adm: 13, including
entry to the Magritte
Museum; otherwise, 8
(3 for 625 yrs, 9 for
above 65 yrs, under 6s
free). Free admission on
5 Magritte Museum
Ren Magrittes work (above) is
1st Wed of each month
after 1pm
so often seen in reproduction that it is
a treat to see it up close. The museum,
The museums have
in a separate part of the Muses their own cafeteria, but
Royaux des Beaux-Arts, houses the far more exciting is the
mim restaurant on top
worlds largest collection of his work.
of the nearby Muse
des Instruments de
6 Fin-de-Sicle Museum
This museum embraces not
Musique (see pp2021).
Also, just a short walk
just painting and sculpture, but early away, are the cafs of
Art Nouveau artifacts and architecture the Place du Grand
from 1884 to 1914. Sablon, including the
exquisite chocolatier
7 The Modern Collection
The museum has a fine collec-
Wittamer (see p78).
9 The Buildings
Set on the crest
0 Belgian
collection. The Magritte
Museum is on five floors
of the Coudenberg, the Symbolism in an adjacent building.
old royal enclave of (Fin-de-Sicle Visitors can choose
Brussels, the museums Museum) to visit each of these
main buildings were individually, but it is
Look out for the
far cheaper to buy a
designed by one of the inventiveness and skill
combi ticket, which
leading architects of the of such artists as Lon permits entry to all.
day, Belgian Alphonse Spilliaert, Jean Delville
Balat (181895). and Lon Frdric.
20 Top 10 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Muse des
Instruments de Musique
The Muse des Instruments de Musique, often referred to
as Le mim, exhibits musical instruments from ancient
to modern, including the largest collection of instruments
by Adolphe Sax. The exhibits selected from a collection
totalling more than 7,000 pieces are beautifully arranged,
and headphones permit visitors to hear what the
instruments actually sound like. The museum is
housed in an exhilarating location: the classic Art
Nouveau department store called Old England.
1 The Old
England 3 Stringed Instruments
Sharing the 2nd floor is
Building the stringed instrument section,
Completed in 1899, including violins (right),
this is a classic example psalteries, dulcimers, harps,
of the innovative iron- lutes and guitars, plus a recon-
and-glass structures struction of a violin workshop.
produced by Art Nouveau
architects (below).
The interior is equally
4 20th-Century
Instruments
impressive. Technology has had a
major impact on music
in the late 20th century,
6 Mechanical
Instruments
from electric amplification The ingenuity of
to synthesizers and instrument-makers is
computer-generated most evident in this
music. This small collection, which
collection offers a includes some
fascinating snapshot. If you outrageously elaborate
dont know what an ondes musical boxes and a
martenot is, heres your carillon a set of bells
chance to find out. used to play tunes.
5 Non-European Instruments
The mim runs a strong line in ethnomusicology.
This impressive collection includes panpipes, sitars,
African harps and drums, gamelan orchestras, and
giant Tibetan horns (below).
2 The Historical
Survey
This section charts the
evolution of western art
instruments from antiquity
through the Renaissance
to the 19th century. The
headphone guide shows
the evolving complexity
of musical sound.
Muse des Instruments de Musique 21
7 mim Restaurant
Even if you dont need refuelling, take 0 Visitor
Guidance
the lift up to the 10th floor to admire the System
view. From here you can see the statue A guidance system
of St Michael on the top of the spire of is given to visitors;
the Htel de Ville in the Grand as you approach
Place, and far across town some instruments,
to the Basilique Nationale recordings and
and the Atomium. images of those
exhibits are triggered.
Trombone with
six valves
Key to Floorplan
Basement (-1)
First floor
Second floor
Third floor
Fourth floor
Fifth floor 8
Eighth floor
3
Tenth floor
8 Keyboard
Instruments 2
5
The star exhibits here 9
include harpsichords by
the Ruckers family, who 6
worked in Antwerp from 4
the 16th century.
5 Structural
Ironwork
7 Leaded Glass
In what was considered a The use of stained
bold gesture at the time, glass shapes of col-
Horta used iron oured glass held together
structures to support his by lead strips was
houses. He even made a embraced by Art Nouveau
virtue of it, by leaving architects. Examples
some of the iron exposed appear at various points
and drawing attention to in the house notably
it with wrought-iron in the door panels and
embellishments (left). stairwell skylight.
Horta Museum, Brussels 23
8 Mosaics
The sinuous lines VICTOR HORTA
of Art Nouveau design in The son of a Ghent
the mosaic tiling of the shoemaker, Victor
dining room floor (left) Horta (18611947)
help to soften the effect studied architecture
of the white-enamelled from the age of 13.
industrial brick lining After designing the
that covers the walls. Htel Tassel (see p48) in
18935, his reputation
soared. Thereafter he
designed houses,
department stores
and public buildings.
With World War I, Art
Nouveau fell from
favour, and Horta
turned to a harder style,
seen in his Palais des
Beaux-Arts in Brussels.
He was awarded the
title of Baron in 1932.
NEED TO KNOW
MAP C8 Rue
Amricaine 25, 1060
BRU (Saint-Gilles)
02 543 04 90
www.hortamuseum.be
Open 25:30pm
TueSun. Closed
Mon, public hols
Adm: 10
There are several
bars and cafs nearby,
around Place du
Chtelain. For a spot
of good-value lunch
before the museums
2pm opening hour,
9 The Staircase
The interior design hangs on a central
try the charming La
Canne en Ville (see p87);
stairwell, lit from the top by a large, curving skylight. for somewhere with
The ironwork bannisters have been given a typically real design flair, head
exuberant flourish (above). for Rue du Page and
La Quincaillerie, dating
Fixtures and
Fittings 0 from 1903 (see p87).
The Horta Museum
The Building
1 Invention
the Comic
of
The museum
4
Strip (right) occupies what
This exhibition explores was formerly the
how the comic strip Magasins Waucquez, an
began (below). Discover innovative Art Nouveau
the history of the art form structure of cast iron
and its use by civilizations supporting large
throughout the world expanses of glass,
from early cave art to designed by Victor Horta
19th-century magazines. in 19036 (see p49).
8 Library
The library has a
inventor Herg (Georges
Rmi, see p42) created
the character as he took
public reading room,
him through a series of
which is open to anyone adventures related to
with a museum ticket. real events, such as the
rise of fascism (King
Ottakars Sceptre). The
charm of Tintin is his
naive determination, as
well as the multitude of
archetypal characters
that surround him, such
as Captain Haddock and
his faithful dog Snowy.
9 The Gallery
The Gallery
displays a broad range of
international albums
both classical and
contemporary style. The
space is dedicated to
new comics from a wide
variety of genres from
fantasy and satire, to
crime and autobiography.
W
OL
VIS-
LE
international trade. Just about every
ST
MARKT
RA
AT
century is represented by the buildings on
the Burg, which disclose fascinating secrets
4 85 2
that lie behind this extraordinary city.
1 Breidelstraat
The quaint little
street that connects
Bruges main market
place, the Markt, to the
Burg is lined with shops
selling souvenirs as well
as one of the citys most
famous products, lace.
Heilig
2 Blinde
Ezelstraat Bloedbasiliek 4
A lovely street leads off On the west side of the
the south of the Burg, Burg is the Basilica of
beneath the arch (above) the Holy Blood (right), a
that links the Oude chapel lavishly restored
Griffie to the Stadhuis. in Neo-Gothic style in
The name Blind Donkey the late 19th century. Its
Street may relate to a museum holds a phial of
nearby inn. blood said to be Christs.
3 Renaissancezaal
het Brugse Vrije
van
In the corner of the Burg is the Renaissance Room,
whose star exhibit is the Charles V chimneypiece, a
virtuoso piece of 16th-century wood carving.
The Burg, Bruges 29
THE MISSING
CATHEDRAL
Images of the centre
of Bruges before 1799
capture the north side
of the Burg occupied
by the impressive hulk
of the Sint-Donaaskerk.
The first church on this
site dated back to
Bruges origins, and
Jan van Eyck was buried
5 Stadhuis
One of medieval Europes great secular
here. Enlarged over
the centuries, in 1559
buildings (above), the Stadhuis (town hall) is an it became the citys
expression of Bruges self-confidence in medieval cathedral. During the
times. It was built in 13761420 in the aptly named occupation by French
Flamboyant Gothic style. revolutionary forces, it
was torn down. Parts of
8 St Basils
Chapel
its foundations can still
be seen in the Crowne
Beneath the Heilig Plaza Hotel (see p127).
Bloedbasiliek is another
chapel of an utterly
contrasting mood. NEED TO KNOW
Constructed of hefty grey
stone in the 12th century, MAP L4
it is a superb and Renaissancezaal van het
atmospheric example of Brugse Vrije: Burg 11a.
muscular Romanesque 9:30am12:30pm &
style, and also a 1:305pm daily. Adm:
reminder of the Burgs included in ticket for
origins as a castle. Stadhuis
Heilig Bloedbasiliek/St
9 Oude
Griffie
Civiele Basils Chapel: Burg 10.
Aprmid-Oct: 9:30am
The Renaissance noon & 25pm daily,
touched Bruges archi- mid-OctMar: 10am
tecture only lightly; this noon & 25pm Mon,
Old Recorders House, Tue & ThuSun. Adm to
built in 15347, is the Schatkamer (museum):
A birds-eye view of the exception to the rule. 2.50
Stadhuis and the Burg Stadhuis (Gothic Hall):
6 Proosdij 0 The
Side
North Burg 12. 9:30am5pm
daily. Adm: 4 (inc.
The Provosts The little park occupies audioguide and
House lining the north the site of the Sint- entrance to
side of the Burg is in Donaaskerk (see panel). Renaissancezaal;
Flemish Baroque style The bronze statue of The children under 12 free)
(1622), with a roof-line Lovers (1986) is by local
balustrade topped by the sculptor Stefaan Depuydt
De Garre (see p97),
figure of Justice. and his wife. just off the Burg, is an
ancient caf serving
1 The Legend
of St Ursula 4 The Last
Judgment
This series of panels by Hieronymus Bosch
the Master of the Saint (c.14501516) is famous
Ursula Legend tells the for his nightmarish
popular medieval tale of paintings of spiritual
St Ursula and her anguish, torture and hell.
company of 11,000 This example is an
virgins, cruelly martyred insight into the religious
in pagan Germany (left). psyche of the times.
Open 9:30am5pm
TueSun. Adm: 8
(children under 12 free)
Sint-Janshospitaal:
MAP K5 Mariastraat 38
Open 9:30am5pm
TueSun. Adm: 8
(children under 12 free)
The Groeninge
museum is only a short
walk from the centre of
town, where there is a
wide choice of cafs and
restaurants (see p97).
Available from the
3 The Adoration
of the Magi
tourist office, the Bruges This work, displayed in
City Card gives access to the Sint-Janshospitaals
24 museums (including chapel, was painted by
the two described here), Memling in 1479. It is
a canal trip, a bus tour known as the Triptych of
and other discounts. Jan Floreins after the
For details visit www. patron, seen behind a
bruggecitycard.be. low wall on the left of the
central panel (right).
Two Museums of Bruges 31
5 The Moreel
Triptych 8 Secret-Reflet
This Symbolist THE GOLDEN AGE
Burgomaster of Bruges, work of 1902 by Belgian OF BRUGES
Willem Moreel, commis- painter Fernand Khnopff Under the dukes of
sioned this work from (18581921) includes an Burgundy Bruges
Memling in 1484. Moreel image of the Sint- prospered, and in 1429
is depicted in the left- Janshospitaal. The title it became the capital of
hand panel and his wife refers to the play on the the Burgundian empire.
word reflection in the Its elite became wealthy,
in the right, with various
educated patrons of the
saints in the middle. two images.
arts. The dukes of
Burgundy married into
European royalty: Philip
the Good married
Isabella of Portugal;
Charles the Bold,
Margaret of York. Their
marriages were
celebrated with vast
feasts the stuff of
European legends. This
is the world glimpsed in
the paintings of the
Flemish masters.
0 Madonna with
Canon Joris
van der Paele
The supreme
masterpiece of the
Groeningemuseum
collection was painted in
1436 by Jan van Eyck.
The detail is astonishing.
Martyrdom
6 The Judgment
of Cambyses of Saint 9
In 1488, Bruges ill- Hippolytus
advisedly imprisoned This triptych (c.1468)
their ruler, Maximilian, by Dirk Bouts and
the Holy Roman Emperor. Hugo van de Goes, in
This large diptych by one scene depicts
Gerard David depicting the saint being pulled
the gruesome flaying apart by four horses
of a corrupt judge at once horribly
(above) was commis- gruesome, strangely
sioned for the town hall calm and exquisitely
as a public apology. detailed (right).
Antwerp Cathedral
Antwerp Cathedral (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal) is the largest
Gothic church in the Low Countries. Its wedding-cake spire, rising
up from a medieval market square, is still a major landmark in the
city. The cathedral took 170 years to build, and even then was not
complete. It was the church of the wealthy guilds, richly adorned
with their shrines, reliquaries and altarpieces. Gutted by fire and
vandals in the 16th and 18th centuries, the cathedral still has
major treasures, notably two triptychs by Rubens.
1 The Raising
of the Cross
This triptych, and the
impressive Descent from
the Cross on the other
side of the nave, secured
Rubens reputation in
Antwerp. The central
and right-hand panels
display the dynamic
energy that was Rubens
hallmark (below).
5 The Burgundian
Window
A fair number of the cathedrals
original stained-glass windows
have survived. The Burgundian is
the oldest window, dating from
1503 (left). It depicts Philip the
Handsome, the Duke of Burgundy,
and his wife Joanna of Castile, with
their patron saints behind them.
Antwerp Cathedral 33
The Spire
The cathedrals
6 ICONOCLASTS
dainty spire (right) was AND FRENCH
REVOLUTIONARIES
built over about 100 years
from the mid1400s Antwerp Cathedral was
onward. As it rises to its once richly decorated;
pinnacle at 123 m (404 two episodes have
feet), it shows increasingly rendered it rather more
austere. The first, during
daring Gothic style. The
the 1560s, was the
only other comparable onslaught of Protestant
spire is that of the Htel zealots, or iconoclasts,
de Ville in Brussels. who set about ridding
churches of statues,
paintings and relics. The
second occurred in the
1790s, when the forces
of the French Revolution
9 The Cupola
From outside, the
went about demolishing
churches, or putting
dome looks like a tiered them to secular use as
black onion. Inside, its stables, barracks, law
logic is clear: the glass courts and factories.
tiers let in light to illu
minate the Assumption of NEED TO KNOW
the Virgin (1647), Cornelis
Schuts notable ceiling MAP T2
Handschoenmarkt
painting. The effect is of
03 213 99 51
looking straight up into
www.dekathedraal.be
the heavens.
Open 10am5pm
0 The Virgin
Exalted
MonFri, 10am3pm
Sat, 14pm Sun and
through Art public hols
In the late 19th century, Adm: 6, students and
the cathedral was rescued over 60s 4, children
by restoration. The effort under 12 free
to recreate a medieval
effect in some of the
There are many cafs,
chapels behind the choir bars and restaurants in
is admirable. Albrecht De the streets around the
Vriendts fine triptych cathedral. One tavern,
Het Vermoeide Model
shows the Eyckian
in Lijnwaadmarkt (see
revival at its best.
7 The Madonna p106), is built against
of Antwerp Cathedral Floorplan the cathedral walls.
Het Kathedraalcaf
This exceptional wooden
(see p107) in Torfbrug
statue (above) has been 0
has a terrace and an
a focus of devotion since inside decorated with
the 16th century, and has 5 statues of saints and
a changing wardrobe of 1 religious artifacts.
robes and crowns. 7 Listen out for the 49
9
The Schyven carillon bells that play
8 Organ
3 tunes on the hour. In
4 the summer, carillon
This impressive instrument is
concerts are given,
housed in a superb 17th 2
when the bells are
century case created by three 8 played from a keyboard.
leading sculptors of the day.
34 Top 10 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent
Rubenshuis, Antwerp
In 1610, Peter Paul Rubens (15771640) court
painter, recently returned from Italy, and newly
married found himself in a position to buy a
large house, where he lived and worked until his
death. After centuries of neglect, the house was
rescued by the City of Antwerp in 1937, and has
been refurbished to look as it might have done in
Rubens day. Apart from the sheer charm of the
place, it provides a rare opportunity to see the
physical context in which great art was made. Peter Paul Rubens
1 The Building
The house (above) is set around
an inner courtyard. As you enter, the
older, Flemish-style half is to the left
housing the domestic quarters, where
Rubens lived. The right half, designed
by the artist in grander Baroque style,
contains his studio.
The Parlour
2 This room is 4 The Baroque
Portico 6 The Art Gallery
A painting exhibited
The massive ornamental here, The Art Gallery of
notable for its wall screen was designed by Cornelis van der Geest
hangings. Embossed Rubens in Italianate (above), shows how Rubens
Spanish leather was Baroque style to link the own gallery might have
used as a kind of wall- two parts of the house. It looked every inch of wall
paper in the houses of also provides a theatrical space hung with pictures.
the well-to-do. entrance to the formal
garden beyond, with
3 The Kitchen
This charming
decorative elements.
The Dining
kitchen, with its tiled
walls and open fireplace, Room 5
is typical of Flanders. Eating and drinking
Note the pothooks with played a central role
ratchets, designed to in social habits of
adjust the height of Rubens day (right). A
cooking vessels over the highlight in this room
fire. The robust traditions is a self-portrait of
of Flemish cuisine were the artist, one of just
forged in such kitchens. four in existence.
Rubenshuis, Antwerp 35
7 The Little
Bedroom SWAGGER
The most eye-catching AND VERVE
8
item in this room is Rubens began training
the 17th-century box as an artist aged 13, but
bed in which people it was an eight-year stay
slept half sitting-up, in Italy that transformed
said to promote him. His work chimed
0 with the grandeur and
good digestion.
7 swagger of Baroque
4 architecture and the
Key to Floorplan Counter-Reformation, as
Ground floor well as with the luxurious
First floor 6 lifestyle of the European
9 aristocracy. Working
with ceaseless energy,
2 he and his dedicated
assistants produced
5 3 over 2,000 major
paintings in his lifetime.
9 The Semi-
Circular
0 Rubens Studio
Museum In this impressive
This elegant marble- room (below), Rubens
lined room inspired by worked with a team of
the Pantheon in Rome assistants and appren-
was used by Rubens to tices to maintain his
exhibit his collection of huge productivity. Pictures
sculpture. Among the shown here include the
pieces shown today is a exhilarating but unfin-
notable antique marble ished Henry IV in the Battle
bust of Seneca. of Ivry (c.162830).
8 The Large
Bedroom
This is the room in
which Rubens died. The
beautiful oak-and-ebony
curio cabinet located
here is decorated with
mythological scenes
based on Rubens work.
The Adoration of
the Mystic Lamb, Ghent
St Bavos cathedral in Ghent is home to one of Northern Europes
great cultural treasures. This huge, exquisitely painted polyptych is
the masterpiece of brothers Hubrecht and Jan van Eyck. Its survival
is a miracle. It was rescued from Protestant vandals in 1566, and
from fire in 1822. Parts were taken by French soldiers in 1794, sold
in 1816, then stolen in 1934. Undergoing a seven-year restoration,
the polyptych is still on show but panels may be missing.
1 The Polyptych
The painting consists of 12
panels (above), four in the centre 5 8
and four on each of the folding 9
wings. The lower tier depicts the 7
spirituality of the world, and Gods
chosen people; the upper tier 2
3
shows the heavenly realm, with
Adam and Eve on either end. 6
5 God the
Almighty INFLUENCE ON
The central figure of EUROPEAN ART
the upper tier is God, Flemish painters are
depicted in a brilliant red sometimes credited
robe and a bejewelled with inventing oil
mitre (left), carrying a painting. This is an
sceptre and with a crown exaggeration, but
certainly they perfected
at his feet. The benign
the technique.
calm and poise of the Antonello da Messina,
face radiate throughout the Italian credited with
the polyptych. pioneering oil painting
in Italy, is believed to
have learnt his skills
2 The Mystic Lamb of God
The focus of this panel (below)
from Flemish artists. As
a result of this, the
is the Lamb of God, which is spurting advantages of oil
blood on an altar. It depicts four painting over tempera
sets of figures approaching: virgin or fresco became
martyrs; figures from the New clear. Italian artists
Testament and the Church; patriarchs adopted oil painting,
and prophets of the Old Testament; and Italian art
and confessors of the Faith. accelerated toward the
High Renaissance.
8 Eve
Jan van Eycks
contemporaries
were startled by the
realism of his Adam
and Eve. Even today,
their nudity among
the luxuriously
clothed figures is
3 The Idealized City
To the rear of the central panel
striking (left). They
show the painters
rise the towers and spires of the great understanding
heavenly city of Jerusalem. of the human form.
7 The Angel-
Musicians 0 The External
Panels
A heavenly choir sings on The wings of the painting
one side of the upper tier can be closed. The
(left), while on the other, external panels are
an orchestra of angels tonally quite flat, inten-
plays. The figures are sifying the moment they
tightly crowded, but the are opened to reveal the
perspective is good. sumptuous interior.
The Top 10
of Everything
Famous Belgians
Herg at work illustrating Tintin inside a copy of his famous comic book
1 Herg
Georges Remi (190783)
4 Queen Astrid
Prince Lopold of Belgium
was a self-taught illustrator from married the beautiful Swedish
the Brussels suburb of Etterbeek. princess Astrid in 1926. By the
In 1929 he published a story called time of their coronation in 1934,
Tintin au Pays des Soviets, and they had three young children,
Belgiums most celebrated comic- but tragedy struck the following
strip character was born. Since year when she was killed in a car
then, 200 million Tintin books have accident in Switzerland, aged 29.
been sold worldwide in some 50
languages. Georges Remi devised
his pen name, Herg, by simply
5 Jacques Brel
MAP C3 Place de la Vieille
reversing his initials and spelling Halle aux Bls 11, 1000 BRU 02 511
out the sounds. 10 20 www.jacquesbrel.be Open
noon6pm TueSun; Aug: daily;
2 Georges Simenon
One of the worlds best-
closed Mon & public holidays
Adm
7 Jean-Claude
Van Damme
A former karate champion, Jean-
Claude Van Damme (born 1960)
did odd jobs in California, such as
delivering pizzas and laying carpets, Jacky Ickx, Formula One legend
before making his name with action
1 Andreas Vesalius
thrillers such as Cyborg, Kickboxer Physician to Charles V and Philip II of
(1989) and Universal Soldier (1992). Spain, Vesalius (151464) was known
as the father of modern anatomy.
8 Eddie Merckx
Cycling is a major sport in
2 Adolphe Sax
Best known as inventor of the
Belgium, and no name ranks higher saxophone, Sax (181494) devised a
than Eddie Merckx (born 1945), five range of other musical instruments.
times winner of the Tour de France
3 Father Damien
(from 196972 and in 1974). A missionary (184089) who devoted
his life to caring for lepers in Hawaii.
He was canonised in 2009 by Pope
Benedict XVI.
4 Victor Horta
The innovative Art Nouveau architect
credited with bringing the style to
maturity (see pp223).
5 Lo-Hendrik Baekeland
A great chemist (18631944) who
invented Bakelite, the first totally
synthetic plastic.
6 Henry van de Velde
Leading Art Nouveau designer
(18631957) laid the foundations
Eddie Merckx in action for the Bauhaus movement.
7 Jacky Ickx
9 Justine Henin
One of the great women tennis
Ickx was one of the great Formula One
racing drivers of the 1960s and 1970s
players of the early 2000s, famed (born 1945).
for her athletic grace on the court, 8 Anne Teresa De Keersmaeker
Henin (born 1982) won seven Grand A leading choreographer (born 1960)
Slam titles in her career. Her great in the world of contemporary dance.
Belgian rival Kim Clijsters won four. 9 Dries van Noten
A celebrated fashion designer (born
Eden Hazard
0 One of a new generation of 1958) who has helped bring Antwerp
to the forefront of haute couture.
Belgian football stars, Hazard (born 10 Matthias Schoenaerts
1991) has played for Chelsea, Lille Film actor and heart-throb (born 1977)
and Belgium. His compatriots on the who has achieved international
international football stage include acclaim in films including Far from
Romelu Lukaku, Vincent Kompany the Madding Crowd (2015).
and Thibaut Courtois.
44 The Top 10 of Everything
Belgian Artists
work, such as The Seven Sacraments
in the Koninklijk Museum voor
Schone Kunsten, Antwerp (see p101).
Working mainly in Brussels, he
became the leading painter after the
death of van Eyck.
3 Hans Memling
Born in Germany, Hans
Memling (c.143094) was probably
trained by Rogier van der Weyden in
Brussels before moving to Bruges.
Memling went on to become one of
the most successful artists of his
day (see pp3031).
4 Pieter Bruegel
the Elder
During the 16th century, Flemish
artists turned to Italy for inspiration,
which muddied their distinctive north
European vision. But Pieter Bruegel
(c.152569) rejected this trend and
painted in a personal style based
on what he saw around him. His
Altarpiece of the Seven Sacraments: depictions of rural villages generate
Eucharist by Rogier van der Weyden a charm and honest naivety.
TOP 10 LESSER-KNOWN
BELGIAN ARTISTS
1 Constantin Meunier
Sculptor and painter (18311905)
best-known for his bronzes of
industrial workers (see p85).
2 mile Claus
Post-Impressionist painter (18491924)
famous for rural scenes of sparkling
clarity, achieved through a technique
that he called Luminism.
3 Jean Delville
One of the most inventive of the
Four Doctors of the Church, Jordaens Symbolists (18671953), famed for
colourful visions of Satanic forces.
Rubens and matched many of the 4 Lon Frdric
latters skills, as well as addressing Symbolist (18561940) who combined
a similar range of subject matter. social realism with poetic vision.
Van Dyck, however, is best known 5 Fernand Khnopff
for his portraits. He became court A painter (18581921) whose
painter to Charles I of England, who enigmatic Symbolist work is suffused
rewarded him with a knighthood. with suppressed sexuality.
6 Lon Spilliaert
7 Jacob Jordaens
After Rubens death, another
Symbolist (18811946) of great
originality, whose works, often black
of his collaborators Jacob Jordaens and white, are instantly recognizable.
(15931678) became Antwerps 7 Rik Wouters
leading painter, best remembered A painter and sculptor (18821916)
for allegorical paintings expressing whose work is noted for being full of
the joie-de-vivre of the Baroque age. light, verve and charm.
8 Constant Permeke
8 James Ensor
The work of James Ensor
A painter (18861952) of the second
phase of the Sint-Martens-Latem
school. His work has a social edge
(18601949) has earned him a
and dark, gritty textures.
reputation as one of art historys
great eccentrics. His paintings 9 Panamarenko
incorporate skeletons, masks True to Surrealist traditions, this artist
(born 1940) creates machines and
and hideous caricatures.
attempts to make them work.
9 Paul Delvaux
Some memorable images
10 Luc Tuymans
One of several contemporary Belgian
artists who have achieved international
of Surrealism came from the studio
recognition (born 1965).
of Paul Delvaux (18971994). He is
famous for his sensual, trance-like
pictures of somnolent nudes in
incongruous settings.
0 Ren Magritte
The dreamlike paintings of
Ren Magritte (18981967) rank
alongside Salvador Dals work as
archetypal Surrealism. The Magritte
Museum (see p86) displays paintings
by the artist, plus photographs, Bords de la Lys (1920), mile Claus
drawings and archives.
46 The Top 10 of Everything
Churches
Brussels
MAP D4 Place Royale, 1000 BRU 6 Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwekerk, Bruges
(Ixelles) 02 511 78 36 Open Bruges most striking church,
noon2pm Mon, noon5:45pm Tue with a rocket-like spire in the
Fri, 16pm Sat, 8:30am6:45pm Sun austere style of Scheldt Gothic.
This distinctive church occupies a The interior has been tinkered
prominent position overlooking the with ceaselessly since the 13th
Place Royale. Its bell tower apart, it century. Its outstanding treasure
looks more like a Roman temple is Michelangelos Madonna and
than a Christian church. Child, donated by a wealthy
merchant in 1514 (see p92).
3 glise Notre-Dame du
Sablon, Brussels
7 Sint-Jacobskerk,
The 15th-century church of the Guild Antwerp
of Crossbowmen is a beautiful example The richly ornate interior of this
of Brabantine Gothic style, lit by large church bears testimony to the fact
expanses of stained glass (see p73). that it was frequented by
the well-to-do during
4 glise Saint-Jean-
Baptiste au Bguinage,
Brussels
The lavish Flemish Baroque faade
of this church contrasts with
its history as the focal point
of a bguine community of
women (see p75). Tomb, Sint-Jacobskerk
Churches 47
8 Sint-Baafskathedraal,
Ghent
The soaring Gothic interior and
Baroque choir give Ghents
impressive cathedral a forceful
quality (see p109). It is upstaged,
however, by its greatest treasure:
Jan and Hubrecht van Eycks
magnificent Adoration of the Mystic A perfect example of Gothic style
Lamb (see pp367).
1 Romanesque
10th12th centuries. Semi-circular
Sint-Niklaaskerk, Ghent
9 The interior of arches and hefty columns. The style is
called Norman in Britain.
Ghents most attractive
2 Gothic
and imposing church 13th16th centuries. Pointed arches
has been scrubbed allowed for lighter structures.
clean by a programme
3 Scheldt (or Scaldian) Gothic
of restoration,
13th14th centuries. An early, rather
resulting in a light austere version of Gothic typical of
and joyous space that found in northern Belgium
that makes the (around the River Scheldt).
most of the
4 Brabantine and
robust Gothic Flamboyant Gothic
stonework 14th15th centuries. A daintier form of
(see p109). Gothic, which is used for town halls
such as Bruges Stadhuis.
5 Renaissance
15th17th centuries. An elegant style
taking its inspiration from Greek and
Roman architecture.
6 Baroque
17th18th centuries. A lavish
interpretation of Classical style,
full of exuberance and swagger.
7 Neo-Classical
18th19th centuries. Classical revisited
again, and even more determined to
emulate Greek and Roman temples.
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal 8 Neo-Gothic
19th-century. Gothic style revisited
0 Onze-Lieve-
Vrouwekathedraal,
that was adopted particularly by the
Catholic Revival.
Antwerp 9 Art Nouveau
With one of its two towers unfinished, Late 19thearly 20th centuries. A florid,
Antwerps cathedral bears the battle organic style, an effort to create an
scars of its centuries-long struggle utterly new approach: hence new art.
for completion, but the immense 10 Art Deco
interior gives an indication of the 1920s1930s. A brash, angular but
scale of its creators ambitions. Its glamorous style. Name is based on a
also an apt setting for two stunning decorative arts exhibition in Paris 1925.
triptychs by Rubens (see pp323).
48 The Top 10 of Everything
4 Htel Hannon
MAP G2 Avenue de la
5 La Maison Cauchie
Rue des Francs 5, 1040 BRU
Inside the Horta Museum (Etterbeek) 02 733 86 84 Open
1st weekend of every month,
1 Horta Museum
The former home and studio
10am1pm, 25:30pm Adm
Behind a faade of geometric shapes
of the great maestro of Art Nouveau with dreamy Art Nouveau murals
architecture, Victor Horta, serves as lies the home of little-known painter
a masterclass in the art (see pp223). Paul Cauchie (18751952).
2 Htel Tassel
Rue Paul-mile Janson 6, 1050 6 Htel Ciamberlani
Rue Defacqz 48, 1050 BRU
BRU (Ixelles) (Ixelles)
Designed by Victor Horta in 18935, The artist Albert Ciamberlani (1864
this is considered the first Art 1956) was one of those responsible
Nouveau house. Up to this point, for the huge mural in the triumphal
the well-to-do who commissioned colonnade of the Cinquantenaire
new private mansions in the mush-
rooming Belgian suburbs adopted
any style going, from Moorish to
Medieval or Tuscan. Horta extra-
polated from this eclectic style to
evolve something more integrated
and considered. The private mansion
of a bachelor engineer, Htel Tassel
was carefully tailored to all aspects
of his lifestyle, but this individualized
approach also made it less adaptable
for subsequent owners. The faade of La Maison Cauchie
Art Nouveau Buildings in Brussels 49
Museums
1 Muses Royaux dArt
et dHistoire, Brussels
Belgiums collection of historic
national and international treasures
is housed in this palatial building.
It includes an impressive array
of medieval church treasures (in
the Salle aux Trsors), tapestries,
Art Nouveau sculpture and
jewellery, antique costumes
and archaeological finds. One
of three museums in the Parc
du Cinquantenaire (see p84). Treasures at Muse Charlier, Brussels
2 Muse des
Instruments de 4 Muse Charlier,
Brussels
Musique, Brussels A rare opportunity to see inside
Housed in a classic Art Nouveau one of Brussels maisons de matre
department store, perched on a (mansions). As well as a fine
ridge, Le mim is one of Brussels collection of antique furniture,
must-see sights. More than 1,200 the Htel Charlier contains
multifarious exhibits are enhanced many reminders of its
by listening to their sounds on an days as a meeting
iPad-like device (see pp2021). place for the
avant-garde set in
3 Volkskundemuseum,
Bruges
the early 20th
century (see p74).
See life as it was lived by the
ordinary folk of Bruges in the often
threadbare 19th and early 20th
5 Museum
Aan de
centuries. Fascinating collections Stroom (MAS),
of household items, as well as Antwerp
complete workshops, bring home This dynamic
the extraordinary changes of the construction of perspex
last century and a half (see p95). and red sandstone is
packed with ethno-
graphic and folkloric An exhibit at
treasures plus Museum Aan
there are great city de Stroom,
views from the Antwerp
rooftop (see p102).
6 Gruuthusemuseum,
Bruges
For over 100 years this historic
house has served as a museum
presenting an ever-growing
collection of artifacts from daily life
both lowly and grand dating from
Bruges medieval Golden Age to
the 19th century. The museum is
currently closed for restoration
Folk artifacts at Volkskundemuseum until the end of 2017 (see p93).
Museums 51
THE CINQUANTENAIRE
8 Design
Ghent
Museum Gent,
Art Galleries
The Village Lawyer (1621) by Pieter Brueghel the Youger at MSK, Ghent
7 Groeningemuseum,
Bruges TOP 10 WORKS
OUTSIDE GALLERIES
Bruges main gallery is celebrated
for its collection of paintings by
Flemish Masters of the late medieval
Golden Age. A small, easily
digestible museum (see pp3031).
8 Sint-Janshospitaal,
Bruges
A superb collection of paintings by
Flemish Primitive Hans Memling
was originally commissioned for
the chapel of this medieval hospital A replica of Rodins The Thinker
to bring solace to the sick. The
conjoining wards and chapel have 1 The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
been restored, giving these works a (1432)
Jan and Hubrecht van Eycks
fascinating context (see pp3031).
masterpiece (see pp367).
9 Stedelijk Museum
voor Actuele Kunst
2 The Raising of the Cross (160910)
Wonderful triptych by Pieter Paul
(SMAK), Ghent Rubens (see p34).
This acclaimed gallery of 3 The Descent from the Cross
contemporary art not only mounts (161114)
cutting-edge temporary exhibitions, Rubens triptych contrasts Christs
death with the Nativity (see p34).
but also has a remarkable per-
manent collection. The works on 4 Madonna and Child (15045)
display are guaranteed to provoke Michelangelo sculpture of mesmeric
a reaction from aficionados and dignity (see p92).
the unconverted alike (see p111). 5 Baroque Pulpit (1699)
Hendrik Verbruggens elaborate carved
pulpit in Brussels cathedral (see pp745).
6 The History of Bruges (1895)
In the Stadhuis of Bruges (see pp289),
12 superb Neo-Medievalist murals by
Albert and Julien De Vriendt.
7 The Thinker (c.1905)
MAP F1 Parvis Notre-Dame, 1020
4:30pm daily
A copy of Rodins statue on a tomb in
Laeken Cemetery, Brussels.
8 Herg Mural (1983)
MAP H2 Stockel Metro, Brussels
glise St-Jean-Baptiste au
5 Patershol,
MAP Q1
Ghent
Bguinage, Brussels Behind the Huis van Alijn folk
museum (see p110) is a warren
1 glise St-Jean-Baptiste
au Bguinage, Brussels
of cobbled streets, once the
heart of medieval Ghent and home
This understated Baroque church to leatherworkers and Carmelite
was once at the heart of an extensive Friars (Paters). In the 17th and 18th
bguinage (see box p92), and still centuries, magistrates working at
provides tranquillity for visitors close the nearby fortress, the Gravensteen,
to the heart of the city (see p75). lived here, which accounts for some
of the grander houses, but during
2 Librarium, Royal Library
of Belgium, Brussels
Ghents industrialisation in the 19th
century the area became a notorious
MAP C4 02 519 53 11 slum. Restoration began in the 1980s
www.kbr.be/librarium and the Patershol has now been
Open 9am5pm MonSat
pedestrianized and gentrified, but
In a softly lit, darkened space in it still retains an authentic charm.
Belgiums most august library
is a small and charming museum
devoted to books, writing and
libraries. Fascinating exhibits, and
the preserved writing-rooms and
libraries of authors and collectors,
are augmented by temporary
exhibitions. (Entrances on Mont des
Arts and Boulevard de lEmpereur 2.)
3 Maison Autrique,
Brussels
This large and grand private
mansion, in the northern suburb of
Schaerbeek, was designed by Victor
Horta in 1893. It was his first project, Charming Patershol district, Ghent
just before he really embraced the
Art Nouveau style. The mansion,
from the cellar kitchen to the attic,
6 Eastern Bruges
Most visitors to Bruges
has been restored and furnished frequent the centre and southwest
in original style so that visitors can of the city. Head east for peace and
view the furnishings and decor of quiet, and a collection of interesting
late 19th-century life (see p86). churches and museums (see p95).
Off the Beaten Track 55
0 Begijnhof, Antwerp
MAP U1 Rodestraat 39
03
Childrens Attractions
1 Antwerp Zoo
MAP V2 Koningin
4 Historic
Brussels
Tram Ride,
Astridplein 26 03 202 45 40 This fun tram ride should appeal
www.zooantwerpen.be Open
to children of all ages. A vintage
10amlate afternoon daily (closing tram strains and squeaks its way
times vary between 4:45 & 7pm) along a 40-km (25-mile) circuit
Adm
of wooded paths from the Muse
One of the oldest zoos in the world du Tram (see p86). It operates on
(1843). Special attractions include Sundays from April to September.
a sea lion show, elephant bathing,
a hippo pond and a hands-on reptile
experience. The zoo is also a Centre
5 Muse du Jouet,
Brussels
for Research and Conservation. Toy museums have a habit of boring
children stiff, but this one bucks the
2 Bruparck, Brussels
MAP F1 Bvd du Centenaire
trend with its welcoming atmosphere
and hands-on exhibits (see p76).
20, 1020 BRU 02 474 83 83
www.bruparck.com Opening
8 Walibi Belgium
Wavre Walibi Belgium: 010 42
The three major museums in this park
will appeal to all ages (see p84).
15 00. Aqualibi: 010 42 16 03 2 mim, Brussels
Opening times vary; see website for Music in the headphones changes as
details www.walibi.com Adm you go around a winning formula
(see pp2021).
Belgiums premier amusement
park, with everything from scary 3 Musum des Sciences Naturelles,
roller coasters and vertical drops Brussels
to soak-to-the-skin water rides, Good for the scientist, ecologist and
dinosaur fanatic (see p86).
plus more gentle, traditional
tracked car-rides and roundabouts 4 Muse des Enfants, Brussels
for younger visitors. There is also Rue du Bourgmestre 15, 1050 BRU
(Ixelles) 02 640 01 07
a multi-pool swimming complex,
09 225 93 06
This heavily restored medieval castle
is complete with dungeons.
8 Waterloo, Brussels
The battlefield has a visitor centre and
Boat trip on a canal in Bruges various outlying museums (see p69).
9 Historium, Bruges
9 Canal Boat Trips,
Bruges and Ghent
Multi-media history of medieval
Bruges (see p94).
From a canal boat the landmarks of 10 Aquatopia, Antwerp
Bruges and Ghent show themselves MAP V2 Koningin Astridplein 7
and from the Graslei and Korenlei in This lively aquarium stands opposite
Ghent (see p109). Centraal station.
0 Boudewijn
Bruges
Seapark,
Alfons De Baeckestraat 12, 8200 Sint-
Michiels 050 38 38 38 www.
boudewijnseapark.be Opening
times vary; check in advance Adm
Bruges amusement park, in a
suburb to the south of the city,
features marine-themed rides and
attractions, such as an orca-themed
roller coaster and an aqua park with Het Gravensteen, Ghent
slides and water fountains.
58 The Top 10 of Everything
4 Les Halles de
Schaerbeek,
Brussels
MAP G2 Rue Royale
Sainte-Marie 22a, 1030
BRU (Schaerbeek) 02 218
21 07 www.halles.be
The magnificent old
covered market, built in
Thtre Royal de la Monnaie, Brussels iron and glass at the end
of the 19th century, has
1 Thtre Royal de la
Monnaie, Brussels
been transformed into an
inspirational venue for a variety of
MAP C2 Place de la Monnaie, cultural events including drama,
1000 BRU 070 23 39 39 dance and music.
www.lamonnaie.be
The most revered performing arts
venue in the country, La Monnaie
5 Concertgebouw, Bruges
MAP J5 t Zand 34 070 22
(BOZAR)
MAP D4 Rue 6 Thtre
Royal de
Ravenstein 23, 1000 Toone, Brussels
BRU 02 507 82 00 MAP C3 Rue du
www.bozar.be March aux Herbes
Victor Hortas Palais 66 (Impasse Sainte
des Beaux-Arts was Ptronille), 1000 BRU
completed in 1928. 02 511 71 37
7 De Vlaamse Opera,
Ghent TOP 10 BELGIAN WRITERS,
POETS AND MUSICIANS
MAP Q3 Schouwburgstraat 3
070 22 02 02 www.operaballet.be
8 De Vlaamse Opera,
Antwerp
MAP U2 Frankrijklei 3 070 22
02 02 www.operaballet.be
Antwerps opera house was
completed in 1907, with its interior
elegantly decked out with marble
and gilding. The Vlaamse Opera Django Reinhardt and his band
also performs here. 1 Roland de Lassus
Also known as Orlando di Lasso
(c.153294). One of the leading
composers of his day.
2 Csar Franck
Organist and composer (182290)
in the Romantic tradition.
3 mile Verhaeren
Symbolist poet (18551916) noted for
his portrayals (in French) of Flanders.
4 Maurice Maeterlinck
Nobel-Prize-winning Symbolist poet
and dramatist (18621949).
5 Michel de Ghelderode
Belgiums most celebrated 20th-
century playwright (18981962),
and one of the most original writers
in the French language.
Le Botanique, Brussels 6 Georges Simenon
Prolific master of the popular detective
9 Le Botanique, Brussels
MAP D1 Rue Royale 236,
story (190389) and creator of
Inspector Maigret (see p42).
1210 BRU (Saint-Josse-ten-Noode)
7 Django Reinhardt
02 218 37 32 www.botanique.be
The most celebrated of all jazz
The beautiful glasshouses of guitarists, Reinhardt (191053) was a
Brussels botanical gardens were key member of the renowned Quintet
built in 18269. Cunning conversion of the Hot Club of France.
of the interior has provided what is 8 Arthur Grumiaux
now a key venue for a wide range of A leading violinist of his era (192186).
cultural activities, including theatre, 9 Hugo Claus
dance and concerts of all kinds. Among Belgiums most revered writers
(19292008) is this Bruges-born
0 deSingel, Antwerp
Desguinlei 25 03 248 28 28
poet, playwright and novelist.
10 Amlie Nothomb
www.desingel.be One of Belgiums most successful
This vibrant multi-purpose cultural modern novelists (born 1967), noted
centre is a venue for performances for her exploration of the darker sides
and exhibitions of drama, dance, of human nature.
architecture and music.
60 The Top 10 of Everything
finest beers were made by the Orval Abbey, famous for its Trappist
Trappists, a silent order of Cistercian beer produced by the monks
Types of Belgian Beer 61
8 Lambic
In the valley of the Senne,
6 Garnaalkroketten
Deep-fried potato croquettes filled
with fresh shrimps; they make an
the river that flows through excellent starter or snack.
Brussels, there is a natural air-
7 Salade Ligeoise
borne yeast called Brettanomyces.
A warm salad of potatoes and green
For centuries, brewers have simply beans, or salade frise, with fried
left their warm wheat-beer wort bacon bits.
uncovered during the winter months,
8 Stoemp
and allowed air to deliver the yeast
Mashed potato mixed with a
into it. The fermenting beer is then vegetable, such as carrots, leeks
left to mature in wooden casks for or celeriac.
a year or more. This creates a very
9 Flamiche aux Poireaux
distinctive beer, with a slightly winey A quiche-like tart, made with leeks.
edge, called lambic the quint-
essential beer of Brussels. 10 Jets dHoublon
Hop-shoots a spring-time by-product
9 Gueuze
Lambic of various ages can be
of brewing usually served in a cream
sauce. They taste a bit like asparagus.
blended, and then fermented a second Moules marinire
time in the bottle. This produces a
beer called gueuze, which is fizzy like
champagne and matured a further
year or two to accentuate the wine-
like qualities of the original product.
0 Christmas Beers
Many of the breweries
produce Christmas ales for the
festive season. These may just
be prettily labelled versions of
their usual brew, but they may also
be enriched ales of high strength.
62 The Top 10 of Everything
Things to Buy
1 Antiques and
Bric--brac 4 Biscuits and Ptisserie
It is hard not to drool in front
For lovers of everything from old of the ravishing shop windows of
comics and Art Nouveau door Belgian ptisseries and the mouth-
handles to exquisite Louis XVI desks watering offerings usually taste as
and ormolu clocks, Belgium is a good as they look. An alternative is
happy hunting ground. In Brussels, to buy some of the equally famed
the full range is on view between the biscuits from a specialist such as
Place du Jeu de Balle and the Place Dandoy (see p17).
du Grand Sablon (see p77).
2 Chocolate 5 Tapestry
Tapestry was one of the great
Belgian chocolate is justly medieval industries of Brussels and
famous for its smooth, delicious Bruges. It is still made on a craft
taste. The manufacturers use high- basis, but of course large pieces
quality cocoa beans and reintroduce come at luxury prices.
a generous proportion of cocoa
butter. They also invented the means
to manufacture filled chocolates (or
6 Haute Couture
Since the 1980s, Belgium has
pralines) on an industrial scale. As a shot to the forefront of the fashion
result, these superb chocolates are world, with designers such as Dries
remarkably good value. van Noten, Raf Simons and Walter
van Beirendonck. Many of the major
3 Beer
In 1900 there were over 3,200
breweries in Belgium; now there are
just over 150, but they still generate
an astonishing variety of beers (see
pp6061). The most famous, and also
some of the finest, are produced by
the Trappist monasteries, but even
the lighter, lager-style beers such as
Stella Artois and Jupiler are made to
a high standard. There are specialist
beer shops in all the main cities. Exquisite Belgian handmade lace
Things to Buy 63
7 Lace
There were tens of thousands
of lace-makers in 19th-century
Belgium, many of them living in
penury. That industry was
undermined by the invention of
lace-making machines, and to some
degree it still is. If you want to buy
handmade Belgian lace, go to a Chocolate strawberries at Godiva
reputable shop, insist on a label of
authenticity, and expect a high price. 1 Leonidas
www.leonidas.com
8 Childrens Clothes
There are numerous shops
One of the favourite chocolatiers. Less
rich and less expensive than its rivals.
devoted to childrens clothes in 2 Godiva
www.godivachocolates.eu
Belgium, and their products are
Maker of luxury chocs, with branches
irresistible from hard-wearing not just in Belgium but worldwide.
romp-around cottons to beautifully
made winter jackets and hats, and 3 Neuhaus
www.neuhaus.be
unusual, fun shoes.
Credited with inventing the
praline and the ballotin (box).
9 Tintin Merchandise
Tintin fans can pick up not only 4 Dumon
www.chocolatierdumon.be
the books, but also T-shirts, Excellent chocolatier originating from
figurines, games, post- Torhout, near Bruges: a cut above the
cards, mobile phone mass-market producers.
covers, key rings,
5 Wittamer
stationery, mugs www.wittamer.com
you name it. The Chocolates, cakes and biscuits
characters are to die for (see p78).
copyrighted, so 6 Pierre Marcolini
high-quality, legally www.marcolini.be
produced goods Fabulous chocolates, made
come at a fairly entirely from raw ingredients.
steep price. There 7 Mary
is a dedicated Tintin www.mary.be
shop in Rue de la Chocolates of exquisite quality.
Tintin figure Colline, Brussels.
8 Galler
A mass-market but high-standard
Diamonds
0 HRD: www.hrdantwerp.com manufacturer. Its famous Langues
de Chat (cats tongues) are shaped
Over three-quarters of the worlds in a jokey cats face.
uncut diamonds flow through the 9 Maison Dandoy
exchanges of Antwerp; many of Supreme biscuit manufacturer,
these are cut, polished and mounted in a class of its own.
there. You could find some bargains 10 Jules Destrooper
but of course, you have to know www.destrooper.be
what youre doing. If in doubt, Manufacturer of biscuits since 1886.
consult the Hoge Raad voor Diamant Its distinctive blue-and-white boxes
(HRD), which oversees a reliable contain such delights as almond thins.
system of certification.
64 The Top 10 of Everything
Brussels, Bruges,
Antwerp & Ghent for Free
1 Grand Place, Brussels
The spectacular centrepiece
of Brussels is a marvel of ornate
architecture. There are a couple of
attractions with entrance charges
to visit here, but the best is free:
standing in the middle looking at the
faades in wonder (see pp1415).
2 Manneken-Pis, Brussels
On view in all his unashamed
glory, just a short walk from the The Maagdenhuismuseum, Antwerp
Grand Place, is Brussels most
famous and notorious mascot (see
p73). Access to the statue is free,
5 Museums:
entry days
free
but you will have to pay to see his Many of the publicly owned museums
collection of costumes at the Maison offer free entry one day a month. For
du Roi (see p15), unless you go on example, on the first Wednesday
the first Sunday of the month. each month, after 1pm, there is no
charge at the Muses Royaux des
3 Africa Museum
Although the Africa Museum
Beaux-Arts (see pp1819) and the
Muse des Instruments de Musique
in Tervuren is currently closed, its (see pp2021) in Brussels. Most public
beautifully landscaped gardens are museums in Antwerp are also free on
open and free of charge. You can the first Wednesday of the month; the
saunter past monumental geometric Maagdenhuismuseum (see p104) and
topiary and stunning Neo-Classical the Rubenshuis (see p36) on the last.
fountains, picnic near the neatly laid
out lakes and stroll through ancient
woodland. And, if you are lucky, you
6 Graslei
Ghent
and Korenlei,
might be there when the museum These two historic quays, facing each
opens for one of its free weekend other over the River Leie, are joined
pop-up exhibitions. by a bridge, the Sint-Michielsbrug.
This provides an excellent viewpoint,
4 Parlement Europen
and the Parlementarium,
taking in both quays and the towers
of the Sint-Niklaaskerk, the Belfort
Brussels and Sint-Baafskathedraal (see p109).
For all avid political enthusiasts
heres a chance to see what goes Graslei
on at the EU Parliament and get Quay
an insight into the lives and work
of MEPs and all for free (see p84).
Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent for Free 65
7 Walking in Bruges
One of the best things to do TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
in Bruges is simply to walk. Bring
stout shoes (for the cobbles) and
wander. Virtually every sector of
the city within the ovoid perimeter
formed by canals and roads that
track the path of the old city walls
yields something of interest. Many
hotels will supply maps with walks
marked on them.
Centraal station Antwerp
8 Centraal
Antwerp
Station,
1 Belgian railways offer numerous
MAP V2 discounts, eg for weekend travel,
the over 65s, children under 12.
This is a classic monument to the Visit www.belgianrail.be.
Golden Age of railways: a station
of palatial richness, referencing just 2 Hotel prices fluctuate a lot according
to business travel patterns and tourist
about every architectural style, and
flow. You can find bargain rates at
glittering with gilded ornamentation, weekends in Brussels; weekdays
polished marble and glass. Built in off-season are cheaper in Bruges.
1905, it was the culminating master
3 Check if breakfast is included in your
work of the Bruges architect Louis
hotel price. If not, breakfast in the hotel
Delacenserie (18381909). will add 1025 per person per night
to your stay.
4 Car parking is most expensive in city
centres, and much cheaper free, even
on the outskirts. Park and walk to
Bruges, Antwerp or Ghent, or take the
park and ride to Brussels.
5 A 24/48/72-hour pass or preloadable
multi-journey MOBIB Basic card can
save money on public transport. This is
particularly relevant in Brussels, where
you may wish to travel to the museums
and sights of Outer Brussels, beyond
Palais de Justice, Brussels normal walking distance.
6 Museum passes allow you to visit
9 Palais de Justice,
Brussels
several museums in a given city for
a single, reduced price.
This colossal pile, which dominates 7 In restaurants, fixed-price set-menus
the city skyline, still serves as a particularly at lunchtime can be
law court, so its normally possible real bargains.
to enter during working hours on 8 Belgium is famous for its frites (chips),
weekdays. It was the biggest building and a good chip stall (friterie/frietkot)
in Europe when completed in 1883 can provide a cheap Belgian meal.
after 17 years of construction, and 9 Picnics are a great way to save
the interior is as vast and elaborate money. Delicatessens, bread shops and
as the exterior. Renovations have ptisseries offer great prepared food
been ongoing since 2003 (see p76). sandwiches, flans, tarts, tubs of salad.
10 Visitors from outside the EU can
0 Churches
Many of the churches are free
reclaim most sales tax (TVA/BWT)
on purchases above a minimum value
to enter (although you are invited to of 125 from any one shop. Visit
leave a donation). There are excep www.brusselsairport.be.
tions, such as Antwerp Cathedral.
66 The Top 10 of Everything
4 Heilig
Bruges
Bloedprocessie,
Ascension Day (May)
Bruges biggest day out, the
Procession of the Holy Blood follows Exhibit at Gentse Floralin, Ghent
Festivals and Events 67
7 Praalstoet van de
Gouden Boom, Bruges
First Sun in Apr
Classic of the cycling calendar.
Late Aug (next in 2017) 2 Lige-Bastogne-Lige
First performed in 1958, the Pageant Third Sun in Apr
Oldest cycling classic in the World Cup.
of the Golden Tree takes place in
Bruges every five years or so. In a 3 Zesdaagse van Vlaanderen-Gent
vast costumed parade, the people MAP P6 Late Nov t Kuipke,
Citadelpark, Ghent
of the city evoke the glory days of
One of the most important meetings
the Burgundian era. for European speed cycling.
8 Ommegang, Brussels
First Tue & Thu in Jul
4 Memorial Van Damme
MAP F1 Sep Stade Roi
Baudouin, Brussels
In Brussels most spectacular Important athletics meeting.
parade, some 2,000 participants,
5 20 km of Brussels
dressed as Renaissance nobles,
Last Sun in May
guildsmen, mounted soldiers and Brussels mini-marathon.
entertainers, perform an ommegang
(tour) in the Grand Place. Its a 6 Belgian Grand Prix
Spa-Francorchamps Late Aug
tradition said to date back to 1549.
0 Toussaint,
Belgium
throughout
12 Nov
All Saints Day is followed by the
Jour des Morts, the Day of the Dead
a time when Belgians honour
their departed by tidying up the
graveyards and laying flowers Athletes at Memorial Van Damme
mainly chrysanthemums.
68 The Top 10 of Everything
Excursions
landscape for walking or cycling
particularly in autumn, when the
beech trees turn golden. There are
two arboretums, at Groenendaal
and Tervuren, and an information
centre on the site of the 14th-century
Abbaye du Rouge-Clotre.
4 Namur
Tourist Office: Place de
la Station 081 24 64 49
www.namurtourisme.be
An attractive town on the confluence
The stunning town hall, Leuven of the Meuse and Sambre rivers,
Namur is known for its mighty
1 Leuven
Tourist Office: Naamsestraat 3
Citadelle perched dramatically
on a steep-sided hill.
016 20 30 20 www.leuven.be
Knokke-Heist
North NETHERLANDS Turnhout
9
E1
Sea
Damme Antwerp ANTWERPEN
Ostend
Bruges Beveren E313
Zelzate E34
Lier Geel
E40 E40
Lokeren
Ghent
E1 9
Dunkerque E40 3 E1 7
Mechelen
WEST- OOST-VLAANDEREN
A12
VLAANDEREN Roeselare Aalst
E40 VLAAMS BRABANT E3
14
Brussels Leuven
Ieper (Ypres) A19 Kortrijk Oudenaarde E4 0
Tienen
E17 Ninove Fort de Soignes
Roubaix
Mouscron Waterloo Walibi Belgium
A25
E4 29
BRABANT WALLON
E4 03
Tournai
E19
Lille Gembloux
HAINAUT
FRANCE
E41
E42
1
A26 La Louvire
E19
Mons E42 Namur
A23
0 kilometres 30 Charleroi
A2
NAMUR
E4 11
0 miles 30
9 Damme
Tourist Office: Huyse de Grote
Sterre, Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3
050 28 86 10
www.damme-online.com
Central Brussels
Central Brussels is contained within a clearly defined shape called
the Pentagon. Nowadays this outline is formed by a ring road
called the Petite Ceinture, which follows the path of the old city
walls. Little remains of the walls, but one old city gate, the Porte
de Hal, still stands, and gives an indication of just how massive
the fortifications were. Most of historic Brussels is within these
bounds, including both the commercial and popular districts of the
Lower Town, and the aristocratic quarter of the Upper Town, which
includes the Royal Palace. As well as cultural gems, you will find
places to stay and eat, good shops, and vibrant cafs and bars.
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Top 10 Sights Bars and Cafs
RU
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and Bistros
Munthof Shopping
see p81
R. D
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see p77
S OUR Brussels Nightlife
CE The Best of the Rest
0 metres 500 see p79
see p76
0 yards 500
Central Brussels 73
The impressive Grand Place during the Tapis des Fleurs flower festival
0 glise St-Jean-Baptiste
au Bguinage
Catherine. This was the site of
the old fish market, and is still
famous for its fish restaurants
MAP B1 Place du Bguinage an ideal place to stop for lunch.
02 217 87 42 Open 10am5pm
TueSat, 10am8pm Sun AFTERNOON
Considered to be one of the countrys
prettiest churches, this Baroque Walk back east, stopping at the
Cathdrale des Saints Michel et
beauty belonged to a bguinage (see Gudule before heading up the hill
p92) and dates from to Rue Royale. Take a stroll in the
the 17th century. pleasant Parc de Bruxelles, then
Parts of the church walk south to the Palais Royal
are occupied (see p76) and the elegant 17th
by a group century Place Royale, with its
of refugees. statue of the 11thcentury crusader
Godefroy de Bouillon. Youre now
a stones throw from both the
Muses Royaux des Beaux-Arts
(see pp1819) and the Muse des
Instruments de Musique (see
pp2021). After this, youll probably
need refreshments, so continue
down the Rue de la Rgence to
the cafs and chocolate shops of
Sablon (see p73).
glise St-Jean-Baptiste
Shopping
1 Galeries Royales
Saint-Hubert
Home to luxury shops including
jewellers and crystal makers (see p16).
2 Rue Neuve
MAP C2
This pedestrianized shopping street
close to the city centre features
many of the main European fashion
chains and a large Inno department
store at the northern end.
5 Place
MAP C4
du Grand Sablon
9 Rue Blaes and Place
du Jeu de Balle
There are antiques shops fronting MAP B5
the square, but poke around in some Place du Jeu de Balle has a
of the side passages as well. Two of daily flea market (6am2pm) selling
the finest chocolatiers, Wittamer and antiques, junk and curios, and there
Pierre Marcolini, are here (see p63). are similar shops along Rue Blaes.
7 Wittamer
MAP C4
Place du Grand Sablon 1213
The world-class chocolatier has a
seating area where you can sample
its heavenly products with a cup of
tea or coffee on the side.
5 Le Cirio
MAP B3 Rue de la Bourse 18
Brussels Nightlife
Saturday nights. International DJs
also play here. Living up to its name,
the decoration is rather bazaar.
02 513 13 45
Jazz and blues bar with live concerts
taking place every night: 8:30pm
on weeknights; 9pm on weekends.
Dinner is available either before
or during the performances.
6 Spirito Martini
MAP C6 Rue Stassart 18
Archiduc
1 MAP B2 7 Madame Moustache
MAP B2 57 Quai au Bois
Fuse
2 MAP B5 8 Le You
MAP C3 Rue Duquesnoy 18
3 Club Avenue
MAP C6 Avenue de la Toison
9 The Flat
MAP D5 Rue de la Reinette 12
Le Bazaar
4 MAP B5 Rue des Capucins 63
02 502 12 24
The ambience may be Latin but the
02 511 26 00 music comes in all varieties at this
Its hard to miss this club, which is lively dance club. Open late Thursday
over two floors and hosts world and all night at weekends. There are
music and parties most Friday and four bars and a restaurant.
See map on p72
80 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
Restaurants
1 Comme Chez Soi
MAP B4 Place Rouppe 23
6 La Belle Marachre
MAP B2 Place Sainte-
02 511 55 50
2 LEcailler du
Palais Royal
Founded in 1921, Aux Armes de
Bruxelles is an institution, praised
MAP C4 Rue Bodenbroek 18 02 for its white-linen elegance and
512 87 51 Closed Sun, Aug impeccable Belgian cooking.
One of Brussels most prestigious
fish restaurants, this quiet, refined
establishment attracts a mature
9 Restaurant Vincent
MAP C3 Rue des Dominicains
Cap dArgent
1 MAP D3 Rue Ravenstein 10
02 511 98 15 Closed Sun, Mon
This cherished and popular
02 513 09 19 Closed Sun restaurant refuses to change or
A no-frills bistro admired for tasty diverge from its traditions of solid,
Belgian classics and great service. good-value, truly Belgian cooking.
The prices are reasonable consid-
2 InMAPt A3Spinnekopke
Place du Jardin-
ering its location near Grand Place.
aux-Fleurs 1 02 511 86 95
Closed Sun L
3 Bozar Brasserie
MAP D3 Rue Baron Horta 3
30 02 512 37 31
4 Les Petits Oignons
MAP C5 Rue de la Rgence
A traditional 1930s Belgian diner
with accomplished waiters and
25 02 511 76 15 an enthusiastic local clientele.
Its a treat to eat at this elegant The fish dishes are excellent.
brasserie, which receives glowing
reviews. The carefully selected wine
list also contributes to its popularity.
9 tMAPKelderke
C3 Grand Place 15
02 513 73 44
5 Le Crachin
MAP B2 Rue de Flandre 12
A 17th-century cellar-restaurant
delivering feasts of Belgian cuisine.
02 502 13 00 The good food attracts appreciative
A jovial caf serving sweet and locals as well as tourists.
savoury traditional Breton pancakes
with mugs of Brittany cider.
0 Chez Lon
MAP C3 Rue des Bouchers 18
Le Pain Quotidien
6 MAP B2 Rue Antoine
02 511 14 15
Established in 1893, this restaurant
Dansaert 16a 02 502 23 61 is a moules-frites specialist that has
Selling excellent bread with delicious become an international brand.
See map on p72
82 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
Outer Brussels
Over the centuries, Brussels expanded
beyond the old city walls, gradually
absorbing neighbouring towns and villages.
These outlying communes such as Ixelles,
Saint-Gilles and Anderlecht still retain
their distinctive characters. As a result,
there is huge variety across outer Brussels.
An excellent public transport system makes
Parc du it easy to get around these suburbs, and the
Cinquantenaire highlights listed here are worth the journey.
1 The Atomium
MAP F1 (inset) Square de
Brussels 1958 Universal Exposition.
It stands 102 m (335 ft) tall and has
lAtomium, 1020 BRU (Laeken) nine 18 m (59 ft) diameter spheres.
02 475 47 75 Open 10am6pm
daily Adm www.atomium.be
This giant model of an iron crystal
2 Horta Museum
A symphony in Art Nouveau
was built as Belgiums exhibit at design (see pp223).
STROMBEEK-BEVER
STROMBEEK-BEVER
A12
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WEMMEL
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Heysel
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Heizel
Heizel DIEGEM
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HEYSEL de Laeken
de Laeken
N1
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HEIZELParkPark
HEIZEL vanvan
Laken
Laken
N9 N9
LAEKEN
LAEKEN
R21
R21
Jette
Jette Schaerbeek
Schaerbeek
LAKEN
LAKEN Schaarbeek
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A2 A2
E40 E40 JETTE
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GANSHOREN
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R20 R20 SCHAERBEEK-
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Simonis
N2 N2
ST-AGATHA-BERCHEM
ST-AGATHA-BERCHEM Gare
Gare
du Nord
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Noordstation
ST-JOSSE
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KOEKELBERG
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ST-LAMBERT
N2 N2 ST-LAMBRECHTS
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N8 N8 BRUXELLES
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ANDERLECHT Clemenceau
ANDERLECHT Clemenceau
BRUSSEL
BRUSSEL
Josphine-
Josphine-
N3 N3 Charlotte
Charlotte
St-Guidon
St-Guidon
St-Guido
St-Guido Gare
Gare
du Midi
du Midi
Zuidstation
Zuidstation Mouterij
Mouterij
Germoir
Germoir
ST-GILLES Horta
ST-GILLES Horta
R0
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ELSENE
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OUDERGEM
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UCCLE
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0 kilometres
0 kilometres 2 2
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de la
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Outer Brussels 83
4 Train World
MAP G2 Place Princesse
A201A201
R22 R22
ZAVENTEM
ZAVENTEM N2 N2
E40 E40
E40 E40
KRAAINEM
KRAAINEM
WEZEMBEEK
WEZEMBEEK
OPPEM
OPPEM
R0
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Stockel
Stockel
see pp825
daily Adm www.
restaurants
Restaurants, Cafs museumvanbuuren.com
and Bars see p87
E41 E41
This beautifully preserved Art Deco
1 1 best
TheofBest
the of
rest
the Rest home of David and Alice van Buuren
see p86
has excellent furniture and stained
glass, plus contemporary paintings.
84 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
6 Muse dIxelles
MAP E7 Rue J Van Volsem 71,
KING LOPOLD II
1050 BRU (Ixelles) 02 515 64 21 Belgiums second king reigned from
Open 9:30am5pm TueSun; closed 1865 to 1909, a time of great change
Mon and public hols Adm www. in Europe. Lopold II was an enthusiast
museumofixelles.irisnet.be of modernization, and undertook many
grand building projects. Determined
Its well worth the trek to this southern
to make Belgium a colonial power, he
suburb for this small but excellent created and ruled the Belgian Congo.
municipal art collection. It has a However, his regime there was brutal,
number of minor works by great and millions died under his reign.
masters, including Rembrandt,
Delacroix and Picasso, as well as
an excellent collection of posters by world. Close by are the Muse
Toulouse-Lautrec. This is also a good Royal de lArme et dHistoire
place to see more work by Symbolists Militaire (military museum) and
such as Lon Spilliaert and Lon Autoworld (collection of vintage
Frdric, the much-cherished cars). The park also contains the
sculpture and Fauve-style painting Atelier de Moulage, and the Pavillon
of Rik Wouters, as well as Surrealist Horta-Lambeaux, a Neo-Classical
paintings, some by Magritte. work by a young Victor Horta
to house an erotic sculpture by
Jef Lambeaux (18521908).
8 Parlement Europen
and the Parlamentarium
MAP F5 Rue Wiertz 60, 1047 BRU
02 283 22 22 Audio tour open
10am & 3pm MonThu, 10am Fri
Parlamentarium open 16pm
2 Muse du Tram
MAP G2 Ave de Tervuren
8 Cantillon
MAP A4 Rue Gheude 56, 1070
5 Maison drasme
MAP F2 Rue du Chapitre
Adm www.autrique.be
1 Bruneau
MAP F1 Ave Broustin 735,
6 Le Balmoral Milk Bar
MAP G2 Place Georges
La Quincaillerie
2 MAP G2 Rue du Page 45,
22, 1050 BRU (Ixelles) 02 347 29 26
Closed Sat L, Sun & weekends Jul &
9 Moeder Lambic
BRU (Anderlecht) 02 520 02 02
MAP G2 Rue de Savoie
0 LUltime
Atome
MAP D5 Rue St
Boniface 14, 1050 BRU
(Ixelles) 02 513 48 84
Open daily
Trendy brasserie
where locals come
to drink artisan beers
and French red wine.
LUltime Atome
90 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
Bruges
In the Middle Ages, Bruges was one of Europes most prosperous
cities. Its wealth derived from trade that brought silks, furs, Asian
carpets, wine, fruits, and even exotic pets to its busy network of
canals. In about 1500 Bruges fell from grace and slumbered for
four centuries. It remained a pocket-sized medieval city, its poverty
alleviated by almshouses, pious institutions, and a cottage industry
supplying lace. In the late 19th century, antiquarians recognized
Bruges as a historic gem, and began a campaign of preservation. In
addition to many hotels, restaurants and bars, Bruges has famous
art collections, and is a walkable city with surprises on every corner.
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Eastern Bruges:
NT BU
Minnewater
Bruges station
200 metres
1 The Markt
MAP K4 4 Steenhouwersdijk
and Groenerei
The central marketplace of Bruges MAP L4
still retains much of its original Just south of the Burg is one of the
outline, flanked by old step-gabled prettiest stretches of canal, where
guildhouses, but the Provinciaal Hof calm waters reflect the medieval
(former local government) building bridges and skyline. Here, the
on the eastern side is actually 19th Steenhouwersdijk (stonemasons
century; the left-hand wing now embankment) becomes the
houses the multi-media experience Groenerei (green canal) and is
Historium (see p94). The Markt is flanked by a picturesque almshouse
also the site of a large market on called De Pelikaan, dated 1714 and
Wednesday mornings, and the named after the symbol of Christian
Christmas market (with an ice rink charity, the pelican.
taking centre stage) in December.
2 Belfort
MAP K4 Markt 7 Open
6 Sint-Janshospitaal
Hans Memling (c. 143094) BGUINAGES
was one of the leading artists of A feature of the Low Countries, these
Burgundian Flanders, and the St communities were founded in the 13th
Johns Hospital ranked among his century as sanctuaries for the many
most important patrons. Visitors women (bguines) left single or
widowed by the Crusades. Although
are advised to use the excellent
deeply pious, a bguinage or begijnhof
audioguides available with the was not a convent: the bguines could
entry ticket. The medieval hospital leave to marry. Surviving bguinages
wards display a fascinating misc are still used for social housing, with
ellany of treasures, paintings and their modest charms intact (below).
historic medical equipment; there
is also a 15thcentury pharmacy.
The exhibition culminates in the
chapel, which contains the hospitals
priceless collection of Memling
paintings (see pp3031).
7 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk
MAP K5 Mariastraat Open
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk
Bruges 93
9 Gruuthusemuseum
MAP K4 Dijver 17 Closed
A DAY IN BRUGES
for renovation until the end of 2017 Langerei Canal to
Damme
If it is hard to picture quite how life
was led during Bruges past, this Frietmuseum
Beursplein
museum will do much to fill in the Burg
gaps. It presents a rich collection of Groenerei
everyday artifacts from the homes of t Brugs Beertje Markt
Steenhouwersdijk
Vismarkt
the merchant classes, from kitchen Dijver
ware to musical instruments, Onze-Lieve-
De Proeverie
furniture and textiles, and even Vrouwekerk
AFTERNOON
Gruuthusemuseum
Now you are going to pass
through the citys medieval
0 Begijnhof
MAP K5 Wijngaardstraat
trading centre. From the Markt
(see p91) walk up Vlamingstraat.
Grounds open 6:30am6:30pm At Beursplein, there was a
daily; Begijnhuisje open 10am5pm cluster of national lodges
Adm to Begijnhuisje (grounds free)
headquarters of foreign traders
This beautiful enclave was such as the Genoese Lodge (No
home to a community of bguines 33). One of Bruges more unusual
(see box) from 1245 until 1928, attractions is on Vlamingstraat:
the Frietmuseum (see p94) is
and expresses something essential dedicated to frites. Then walk up
about the soul of Bruges. Around Langerei to follow the canal that
the peaceful, treeshaded park leads to Damme (see p69), where
are the 17th and 18thcentury goods were transferred from
whitewashed homes of the bguines, ships to canal barges. Head back
and now occupied by Benedictine down SintJakobstraat, and take
nuns. You can visit the grounds, a detour to t Brugs Beertje (see
p97), with its famed beers.
the bguinage church and one
of the houses (Begijnhuisje).
See map on p90
94 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
2 Sint-Walburgakerk
MAP L3 Sint-Maartensplein
9 Historium
MAP K4 Markt 1
050 27
A multi-media experience
evoking the medieval Golden
Swans on Minnewater lake Age of Bruges through a tale
of young romance.
5 Diamantmuseum
MAP K5 Katelijnestraat 43
0 Sint-Jakobskerk
050 34 20 56 Open 10:30am MAP K3 Open JulAug only:
5:30pm daily Closed 2nd & 3rd 25:30pm MonFri & Sun, 24pm Sat
weeks Jan Adm www.diamond The church of St James is Bruges
museum.be richest parish church and contains
The history of diamonds explained. notable paintings and tombs.
See map on p90
Bruges 95
2 Duinenbrug
MAP L2 7 Jeruzalemkapel
MAP L3 Peperstraat 3
050
0 Kruispoort
Open 9:30am12:30pm & MAP M3
1:305pm TueSun Adm One of only four surviving gates
Rustic home of one of the best- of the city walls.
loved poets in Dutch (and Flemish),
the priest Guido Gezelle (183099). Kruispoort
96 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
Shopping
1 Steenstraat and
Zuidzandstraat 6 2be
MAP L4 Wollestraat 53
MAP K4 This shop in a converted
The main shopping area links the 15th-century mayors house stocks
Markt to t Zand. Clothes, shoes, beers, chocolate and biscuits. The
chocolates theyre all here. bar upstairs offers good canal views.
8 Pollentier-Marchal
MAP K5 Sint-Salvatorskerkhof
2 Zilverpand 9 Supermarkets
MAP M3 Langestraat 55
3 Sukerbuyc
MAP K5 Katelijnestraat 5
0 Markets
MAP J4, K4, L4
There are chocolate shops at every General markets are in the Markt
turn in Bruges, but Sugarbelly is (Wednesday mornings) and on
family-run and the cocoa treats are t Zand (Saturday mornings). The
handmade on site. Christmas market takes place in the
Markt and Simon Stevinplein. Flea
4 The Bottle Shop
MAP K4 Wollestraat 13
markets are held weekend after-
noons on Dijver and at the Vismarkt.
Bruges own brewery De Halve Maan
(see p 94) produces two beers,
Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik.
You can find them here, along with
the full Belgian range.
5 tMAPApostolientje
L3 Balstraat 11
1 De Garre
MAP K4 De Garre 1
6 Duvelorium
MAP K4 Markt 1
2 Caf Vlissinghe
MAP L3 Blekerstraat 2
7 Joeys Caf
MAP K4 Zilversteeg 4 (off
tavern, founded in 1515. Van Dyck A fun caf-bar with low-lit tables,
apparently met local painters here. comfy chairs and friendly staff.
Theres a boules court outside and Hosts occasional free concerts.
light lunches are served.
De Proeverie
3 MAP K5 8 tMAPBrugs Beertje
K4 Kemelstraat 5
Yesterdays World
4 MAP K5 9 The Vintage
MAP K5 Westmeers 13
0 De Republiek
050 33 38 39 Closed TueThu
MAP K3 Sint-Jakobstraat 36
Restaurants
1 De Karmeliet
MAP L3 Langestraat 19
2 De Stoepa
MAP K5 Oostmeers 124
5 Bistro de Schaar
MAP M4 Hooistraat 2
050 8 Den Amand
MAP K4 Sint-Amandsstraat 4
its steaks grilled over an open fire A small restaurant serving inventive
and its homemade desserts. dishes of worldwide inspiration.
0 Patrick Devos
MAP K4 Zilverstraat 41
Bistro de Pompe
1 MAP K4 Kleine Sint-
straat 5 050 34 91 31 Closed Sun
7 Lotus
MAP L4 Wapenmakersstraat
8 Blackbird
MAP L3 Jan van Eyckplein 7
Antwerp
Set on the Broad River Scheldt, at the gateway
to the North Sea, Antwerp is one of the leading
trading cities of northern Europe; and in the
early 17th century it was one of the great cultural
centres too. The city has had its share of suffering
battered by the religious wars of the 16th
century, cut off from the North Sea by treaty with
the Netherlands from 1648 to 1795, and bombed
in World War II. These historical ups and downs
have endowed the city with a keen edge, like its
Exhibit, Museum famous diamonds. This dynamic energy is seen
Aan de Stroom today in its hip bars, restaurants and nightclubs.
D E P R E TS TR A AT
D E P R E TS TR A AT
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see pp1013 ST-ALSD EGONDISKA
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I TA L
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Cafs
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Antwerp 101
2 Grote Markt
MAP T1 Stadhuis: guided tours
A EERT
EV E REV R A E RT
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3 Rubenshuis
A A
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TRAA
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PE PE
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T
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LAN LAN
A AT A AT
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to see what a 17th-century patrician
R.
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DEL DEL
Elisabeth H A NH A N
Elisabeth
home looked like (see pp345).
DAMB
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Z O NZSO N S View from the gardens, Rubenshuis
PROVINCIESTR.
PROVINCIESTR.
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4 Koninklijk Museum
AAT AAT E NEKNS
K OV OVTERNS T R
TSTRTSTR
O E N S TR A
O E N S TR A
. .
KIEVIKIEVI
.
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(KMSKA)
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MAP S3 Leopold de Waelplaats
OO
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R L I NR L I N
R.
R.
GER GER
TEN
TEN
STR STR
KR
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Plantin
Plantin . .
P L AP L A
NT NT 03 224 95 50 www.kmska.be
MON
MON
IN IN
Antwerps fine arts museum is
RO LWAG
RO LWAGAT
EN EN
ME
ME
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S L ESI L E I
second only to Brussels with
RC
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building is undergoing an extensive
IR
IR
G R OGT ERHOON
T E HDON
S T RD.S TDRAAK-
R . DRAAK-
RIN
RIN
Museum Vleeshuis
7 Museum Aan de
Stroom (MAS)
5 Museum Vleeshuis
MAP T1 Vleeshouwerssstraat
MAP T1 Hanzestedenplaats 1
03 338 44 00 Open AprOct:
38 03 292 61 00 Open 10am5pm 10am5pm TueFri & 10am6pm
ThuSun Adm www. Sat & Sun; NovMar: 10am5pm Tue
museumvleeshuis.be Sun; closed pub hols Adm (free
With its turrets and towers and last Wed of month) www.mas.be
Gothic detail, the Meat House is It is impossible to miss this towering
one of the most beautiful buildings dockside museum built of red sand
of Antwerp. Built in 15014 as the stone and perspex. It uses the citys
guildhouse of the butchers and a collection of ethnographic and folk
meat market, it is now used as a loric treasures to explore mankind
museum of music. The Museum and our interaction with the world.
Vleeshuis charts the history of
the city through its many forms of
musical expression, using historical
8 Museum Mayer
van den Bergh
instruments, including harpsichords MAP T2 Lange Gasthuisstraat
made by the famous Ruckers family, 19 03 338 81 88 Open 10am
manuscripts and a bell foundry. 5pm TueSun Adm (free last
Wed of month) www.
6 Museum
Moretus
Plantin- museummayervandenbergh.be
Fritz Mayer van den Bergh (185891)
MAP T2 Vrijdagmarkt 22 was an avid collector of art and
03 221 14 50 Open 10am5pm curios. When he died, his mother
TueSun; closed public hols
Adm (free last Wed of month)
www.museumplantinmoretus.be
9 Rockoxhuis
MAP U1 Keizerstraat 1012
Sint-Carolus
Borromeuskerk
Boerentoren
03 201 92 50 Open 10am5pm De
Vagant Meir
TueSun Adm (free last Wed of Het Rubenshuis
month) www.rockoxhuis.be Modepaleis Grand
Caf Horta
Come here for a glimpse of the Museum Mayer Schuttershofstraat
grace and elegance of 17th-century van den Bergh
Maagdenhuismuseum
patrician style. A series of rooms
contains a fine collection of furniture, MORNING
paintings and artifacts. The house
is named after its owner, city mayor This day of gentle ambling
Nicholas Rockox (15601640), takes in many of the key sights
of Antwerp, as well as some of
a philanthropist and a friend the best shopping streets. Start
and patron of Rubens. There are off at the Museum Vleeshuis and
paintings and drawings by Rubens, head for the old city centre the
Jordaens and Van Dyck, as well as Grote Markt (see p101) and the
work by painter Frans Snyders cathedral (see pp323). Thread
(15791657), who lived next door. your way to Wijngaardstraat,
and the fetching ensemble of
the Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk
(see p104), before heading on
to the Rockoxhuis in Keizerstraat.
After this, walk south along
Katelijnevest to the Meir. The
tower block to your right,
with KBC on its crest, is the
Boerentoren, the highest building
in Europe when constructed in
1932. Head down the Meir to the
Rubenshuis (see pp345); you can
lunch here, or if you prefer at the
Grand Caf Horta (see p106).
AFTERNOON
6 Sint-Carolus
Borromeuskerk
MAP T1 Hendrik Conscienceplein 6
Red Star Line Museum exhibits 03 231 37 51 Open 10am
12:30pm, 25pm MonSat;
1 Red Star Line Museum
MAP T1 Montevideostraat 3
for religious services Sun
This church is renownded for its
03 298 27 70 Open 10am5pm Baroque faade and its tragic loss
TueSun; closed public hols Adm of 39 Rubens paintings.
www.redstarline.be
Shopping
1 Nieuwe
Arcade
Gaanderij
6 Het Modepaleis
MAP T2 Nationalestraat 16
(first floor)
A fashion boutique set up by
Dirk Saene (one of the famous
Antwerp Six) and carrying work by
other Antwerp luminaries, including
Walter Van Beirendonck, Veronique
Branquinho and Raf Simons.
8 Ann Demeulemeester
MAP S3 Leopold de
Waelplaats/Verlatstraat
Only a short distance from the
MUHKA contemporary art gallery,
Demeulemeesters shop displays
the uncompromising edge that has
Meir, busy with shoppers placed her at the forefront of fashion.
2 Meir
MAP U2 9 Diamondland
MAP V2 Appelmansstraat 33A
4 Nationalestraat
MAP T2
The heart of Antwerps haute-couture
fashion district offers boutiques
by many world-class designers
but remains accessible to all. A sparkling window display, Meir
5 Schuttershofstraat
MAP U3 0 Pelikaanstraat
MAP V2
Another street of recherch Wall-to-wall diamond and jewellery
boutiques and shoe shops, including shops in the Jewish quarter.
a branch of the ultimate Belgian Fascinating, partly because theres
accessories manufacturer Delvaux. nothing romantic about it the gems
You can smell the leather! are commodities like any other.
See map on pp100101
106 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
2 Den Abattoir
Lange Lobroekstraat 65 03
03 233 50 33
3 Docks Caf
MAP T1 Jordaenskaai 7
A celebrated old-world tavern in a
grand 17th-century convent, with
03 226 63 30 Closed Sun its own chapel. It serves a good
Renowned for its oysters and its range of Flemish food and beers.
inventive, multi-layered interior by
celebrated designer Antoine Pinto.
7 Gnther Watt
MAP T2 Steenhouwersvest
4 Restaurant
Stroom
aan de 30 03 293 58 94 Closed Mon
With its renowned pralines made
MAP T2 Ernest van Dijckkaai 37 in-house, this caf is a favourite
03 234 12 75 with connoisseurs of coffee
A landmark building looming and chocolate.
over the River Scheldt. Home to
an elegant, first-class brasserie.
8 Het Vermoeide Model
MAP T2 Lijnwaadmarkt 2
Closed Sat L
Floor-to-ceiling windows
and a marble bar make an
impressive setting for this
hugely popular fish restau-
rant in the Zurenborg.
0 Brasserie
Appelmans
MAP T2 Papenstraatje 1
03 226 20 22
Inventive Belgian and
international dishes among
the brickwork of a beautifully
renovated 19th-century
Grand Caf Horta interior building, with Absinthbar.
Antwerp 107
03 233 12 52
A classic Belgian bruine kroeg (brown
pub brown with the patina of age)
overlooking the Grote Markt. Try
a bolleke (chalice-like glass) of
De Koninck, Antwerps own brew.
2 IKON
Kotterstraat 1 03 295 54 65
3 Caf Local
MAP S3 Waalsekaai 25
Chromatic lighting, Caf dAnvers
03 500 03 67
A glamorous complex with themed
7 De Muze
MAP T2 Melkmarkt 15
8 Het Kathedraalcaf
MAP T1 Torfbrug 10
9 Caf Hopper
MAP S3 Leopold de
D-Club
5 Damplein 27 0488 49 96 07
03 233 15 38
A welcoming traditional caf-bar
Predominantly gay nightclub offering some 200 types of jenever
with popular, free Saturday night (gin). You can buy your favourite
parties. brand in the Sliterij shop upstairs.
See map on pp100101
108 Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
Ghent
Ghent has much in common with Bruges. It is a city with a rich
legacy of medieval buildings and art treasures inherited from
its days as a semi-autonomous and prosperous trading centre.
The tranquil waters of its canals mirror the step-gables of its old
guildhouses and the tall spires of its three famous towers. Unlike
Bruges, however, historically prosperous Ghent took on a new
lease of life as Belgiums first industrial city in the early 19th
century. It is also home to a large university. These factors have
endowed the city with a scale, bustle and youthful verve that have
shaped its character. Ghent has a grandeur, symbolized by its
cathedral, theatres and opera house, but it also has an intimacy,
and the web of its medieval streets including Europes largest
pedestrianized zone makes this a perfect city for wandering.
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Top 10 Sights
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see pp10911
S T- P I
TR.
NS
SH
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BE
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E
ie
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LT H
O
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HU
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see p112
NDSTR.
Gent-St-Pieters PETERS-
KO
station PLEIN
800 metres 500 metres
Ghent 109
3 Sint-
Niklaaskerk
MAP Q2
Catalonistraat
Open 25pm Mon,
10am5pm TueSun
St Nicholas, Bishop of
Myra, was patron saint
of merchants, and this
was the merchants
church. Built in the 13th
to 15th centuries, it is
Belgiums best example
of the austere style
called Scheldt Gothic.
7 Klein
Begijnhof
MAP R4 Lange
Violettestraat 235
Open 6:30am
9:30pm daily
There are three
bguinages (see p92) in
Ghent, but this is by far
the prettiest. With step-
gabled, whitewashed
houses set around a
little park and Baroque
church, it is a classic
of its kind a fact
recognized by its status
Exhibit in the Huis van Alijn as a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. It was
6 Huis van Alijn
MAP Q1 Kraanlei 65
09 235
founded as a community of single
women in about 1235, and has been
38 00 Open 11am5:30pm TueSat, continuously occupied, although the
10am5:30pm Sun Adm residents are no longer bguines.
Just north of the centre of Ghent is Most of the present houses date
a quaint and folksy quarter called from the 17th century.
the Patershol, a warren of little
medieval streets and alleys (see p54).
This is the backdrop for one of the
8 STAM
MAP P4 Godshuizenlaan 2
TRAM
uncompromisingly modern
extension, it provides a tour through From SMAK and
changing European styles from the Museum voor Schone Kunsten
2 Markets
www.visitgent.be/en/markets
There is a market every day in Ghent
(six on Sunday): a Sunday walking Butchers hall, Groot Vleeshuis
tour can take you to them all.
Tierenteyn-Verlent
3 MAP Q1 6 Groot Vleeshuis
MAP Q1 Groentenmarkt 7
8 Brooderie
MAP P1 Jan Breydelstraat 8
Closed Mon
The tempting smell of freshly
baked bread wafts around this
rusticstyle eatery, which serves
sandwiches and light vegetarian fare.
Herbs and spices, Tierenteyn-Verlent
Dulle Griet
4 MAP Q1 9 Hotsy Totsy
MAP P2 Hoogstraat 1
Het Spijker
5 MAP P2 0 Caf Labath
MAP P2 Oude Houtlei 1
Restaurants
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half
5 Korenlei Twee
MAP P2 Korenlei 2
09 224
4 Belga Queen
MAP P2 Graslei 10
09 234 13 54 Closed Mon, Tue
This excellent brasserie is
09 280 01 00 dramatically located within the
The historic 13th-century building, grand 19th-century Koninklijke
elegant decor and the quality of locally Nederlandse Schouwburg (theatre),
sourced food create a high-end feel with a balcony overlooking Sint-
within contemporary surroundings. Baafskathedraal.
9 Frituur Jozef
MAP Q1 Vrijdagmarkt
Practical Information
Passports and Visas countries have embassies cancel, are delayed or
in the city and most of lose your possessions. It
You need a passport them are located in and should also cover medical
to enter Belgium, valid around the European costs in case of illness
at least three months Quarter to the east of or accident, and most
beyond the end of your the centre. Contact your importantly the cost
stay. Citizens of the EU, countrys embassy if you of transport to get you
the USA, Australia and lose your passport, or in home, should you have a
New Zealand do not need extreme circumstances major accident or illness.
a visa if staying for less (for instance, if feel you British citizens can take
than 90 days. Citizens have been unfairly treated advantage of reciprocal
of other countries should by the police); for the con-
EU medical agreements,
consult their Belgian tact details of embassies as long as they carry a
embassy for information. of the major English- European Health
speaking countries, Insurance Card (EHIC),
Customs see the Directory box. under which 75 per cent
Regulations and of specified costs can be
Immigration Languages reclaimed; you usually
have to pay for medical
Most goods can be The people of Flanders treatment in the first
transported between (which includes Bruges, instance and reclaim
EU countries, including Antwerp and Ghent) costs later, so be sure
wines, beer, spirits and speak Dutch (Nederlands); to keep all your receipts.
tobacco, provided they this may be informally
are for your own personal referred to as Flemish Emergencies
use, and in quantities that (Vlaams), but the official
reflect this; UK guidelines language is categorically The emergency services
for maximum quantities Dutch. In Brussels the are as efficient and
are 10 litres of spirits, people speak mostly reliable as any throughout
800 cigarettes, 90 litres French or Dutch (some Europe. For emergency
of wine, and 110 litres speak the old Bruxellois telephone numbers,
of beer. Some restrictions dialect Marollien). see the Directory box.
apply to meat products, Generally, English is
plants and, of course, fairly widely understood, Health
weapons and narcotics. especially by people
For non-EU citizens flying involved in the tourist Belgians enjoy a high
into and out of Belgium, trade; in Flanders many standard of healthcare;
national limits apply. people prefer to speak their hospitals usually
in English rather than located in modern
Travel Advice French, even though it buildings situated in
is one of the Belgian spacious grounds in the
Visitors can get up-to- national languages. There suburbs on the periphery
date travel information is a third official Belgian of the cities rank among
from the Foreign and language, German, but the best in Europe. This
Commonwealth Office this is spoken primarily healthcare is extended
in the UK, the State in the eastern cantons, to foreign visitors, but
Department in the USA on the German border. you will have to pay for
and the Department it if you are not properly
of Foreign Affairs and Travel Insurance covered by insurance.
Trade in Australia. Should you suffer an
Take out travel and health accident or illness, or
Embassies insurance when you book need emergency dental
your trip. This will allow treatment, ask locally
Brussels is the Capital you to claim compen- about how best to
of Europe, so most major sation if you have to access these services;
Practical Information 119
Places to Stay
PRICE CATEGORIES and sumptuous hotel
For a standard double room per night (with breakfast is part of the Warwick
if included), including taxes and extra charges. group. It has a restaurant,
bar and fitness suite.
under 100 100250 over 250
Sofitel Brussels
Brussels Hotels: Hotel Mtropole Le Louise
Top of the Range MAP C2 Place de
MAP C6 Avenue de
02 516 90 90 www.
hotel with lavish belle the fact that this is a
marriott.com
poque reception and chain hotel, Sofitel
A Marriott with unique bar. The large, elegant brought in revered
character, located near rooms are fresh and designer Antoine
the Bourse and the Grand decorated in pretty Pinto to redefine this
Place. Ideal for business, colours. There is a fully five-star hotel with a
shopping and leisure. equipped fitness centre. glamorous, eclectic
Centrally located, not far vibe. Rooms are plush,
The Dominican from Place Ste-Catherine and the restaurant has
MAP C2 Rue Lopold 9, and Place St-Gry.
a lovely sunny terrace.
1000 BRU 02 203 08 08
MAP C6 Chausse de
MAP B3 Rue de lAmigo
This luxurious hotel on Charleroi 100106, 1060 13, 1000 BRU 02 547
MAP C5 Boulevard de
the peaceful private 103, 1000 BRU 02 227
02 504 11 11 www.
close to the bustling With its palatial lobby
thehotel-brussels.be Avenue Louise.
and spectacular public
This high-rise may not rooms, the Astoria looks
look much from the Royal Windsor as if it dates from the
outside, but the inside MAP C3 Rue
18th century, but was
is brimming with Duquesnoy 5, 1000 BRU actually built in 1909. It
surprises, including 02 505 55 55 www.
is located in the Upper
contemporary decor royalwindsorbrussels. Town, near to the Royal
and stunning views com
Palace. Both Churchill
from the higher rooms, Equidistant from the and Eisenhower stayed
as well as the 23rd- Grand Place and the here. The Astoria is
floor sauna and gym. Muses Royaux des closed for renovation,
Excellent service. Beaux-Arts, this elegant so call ahead.
Places to Stay 125
02 219 28 28 www.
White walls and bedding
radissonblu.com
Vintage Hotel allow colourful access-
The foyer, showcasing MAP C6 Rue Dejoncker
ories to shine. Some
the work of renowned 45, 1060 BRU 02 533 99
rooms have rooftop views
Belgian architect Michel 80 www.vintagehotel.
of the Lower Town.
Jaspers, is breathtaking be
fountains filling its base, Avenue Louise. Rooms Adolphe Max 11826,
and glass-fronted lifts feature bubble lamps and 1000 BRU 02 278 01 00
renowned restaurant, turns into a wine bar. You feel a bit like a guest
the Sea Grill (see p80). of Louis XVI in the palatial
Le Dixseptime foyer and public rooms
Brussels: Hotels MAP C3 Rue de la
of this grand hotel, with
of Character Madeleine 25, 1000 BRU its stucco, gilt, and lavish
02 517 17 17 www.
ceiling paintings. The
Esprance ledixseptieme.be
guest rooms maintain
MAP C1 Rue du
There is no other place the same high standard
Finistre 13, 1000 BRU quite like this in Brussels: of spacious comfort.
02 219 10 28 www.
an utterly charming and
hotel-esperance.be
fascinating small hotel Warwick Barsey Hotel
This 1930s Art Deco gem in the late-17th-century Avenue Louise 3813,
is hidden away near Place residence of the Spanish 1050 BRU 02 649 98 00
but Room 7 still retains its named after Belgian Located at the southern
old splendour. The tavern/ artists ingeniously set end of stylish Avenue
breakfast room has hardly beneath the roof beams, Louise, this hotel was
changed and is a must for and furnished with a decorated by French
evening drinks. mixture of antique charm designer Jacques
and modern flair. Garcia in an opulent
Hotel Bloom! Edwardian style. The
MAP E1 Rue Royale
Ibis Styles rooms exude a sense of
250, 1210 BRU 02
Brussels Louise luxurious, silky comfort.
220 69 05 www.
MAP C6 Avenue Louise The private terrace is a
hotelbloom.com
212, 1050 BRU 02 644
bonus in summer.
A bright, fresh, modern 29 29 www.ibis.com
by a young European now part of the Ibis chain, Chtelain 25, 1050 BRU
artist. Behind the bota- but it retains its contem- 02 640 26 26 www.
02 588 14 74 www.
1060 BRU 02 541 48 98 rate fixtures such as
meininger-hotels.com
www.pantonehotel. under-floor heating.
Housed in a former com
Romantic restaurant
brewery, this backpacker- The worlds first hotel to with freshly cut roses
style, carbon-neutral, apply the standardized and open fire.
126 Streetsmart
www.2go4.be
contemporary-styled guest Thon Hotel EU
Just off the Grand Place, rooms and state-of-the- MAP F4 Rue de la Loi
this is Brussels only art meeting rooms. Relax 75, 1040 BRU 02 204
and a lively bar with the European Parliament, 1, 1040 BRU 02 235 51
hotel that is popular with 18, 1000 BRU 02 548 18 feature luxury bathrooms
MAP K4 Heilige
A well-presented, well-
Geeststraat 1 050 34
Bonifacius managed hotel close to
30 01 www.castillion.be
MAP K5 Groeninge 4
the centre. Its part of
050 49 00 49 www.
the Swan Hotel Collection,
Occupying a 17th-century bonifacius.be
which includes the Dukes
bishops residence in A superb boutique Palace. The hotel also
the west of the city, this B&B in a 16th-century has eight apartments
comfortable hotel has building overlooking nearby, which can sleep
imaginatively decorated the canal and Bonifacius up to seven people.
bedrooms and bath- Bridge. Each room is
rooms. The high standard decorated with rich Hotel Dukes Palace
of the rooms is matched fabrics and antiques, MAP K4 Prinsenhof 8
050 34 16 49 www.
restaurant (see p98). spa pool, art gallery and
hotelorangerie.be
chapel. The Manuscript
This delightful hotel in a Crowne Plaza Hotel restaurant serves a
15th-century convent has MAP L4 Burg 10 050
great breakfast. The
a gorgeous panelled break- 44 68 44 www. ihg.com
bar is not cheap, but
fast room and lounge with
locals seem to think
a terrace overlooking the You could not get more its worth it.
canal. The hotel exudes central if you tried: the
character and charm. Crowne Plaza overlooks The Pand Hotel
the Burg at the very MAP L4 Pandreitje 16
MAP J5 Boeveriestraat
modern establishment, pandhotel.com
2 050 44 97 11 www.
it also incorporates some This boutique hotel,
nh-hotels.com
historic remains: the in a fine 18th-century
Once a 17th-century excavated foundations of town house, is the ideal
monastery, this building the medieval church of St place for a romantic
retains some lovely Donatian. The hotel has getaway. Close to the
features, such as stained- an indoor swimming Burg in a pretty tree-lined
glass windows, large pool, the PlazaCaf and street, it is beautifully
fireplaces and wooden its own car park. decorated in a deeply
beams. The rooms are in upholstered style, with
a modern style, but the Heritage canopied beds.
Jan Breydel bar has old- MAP K3 Niklaas
050 34 27 98 www.
chant quarter to the north noblemans house
dieswaene.be
of the Markt, this hotel overlooking the canal,
An opulent, romantic boasts the respected rest- this lavish hotel has
hotel with rooms in the aurant, Le Mystique, plus hosted many a celebrity.
18th-century building and a spa and a fitness room Chocolate fountain in
in the modern pergola in its 14th-century cellar, the breakfast bar plus
looking out over the pretty and a sun deck with city swimming pool, steam
canal. Amenities include views on the roof. room and bar.
For a key to hotel price categories see p124
128 Streetsmart
050 34 13 36 www.
rooms and common MAP L4 Hoogstraat 20
www.egmond.be
The charming public MAP J5 Vrijdagmarkt
050 33 98 31 www.
canal, is a member of the city, and is only 10
hoteljacobs.com
the Golden Tulip group. minutes walk from
This good-value hotel It has a health centre the city centre. There
is in the peaceful Sint- with a gym, sauna and is a spacious car park
Gillis neighbourhood. steam room, and a under the hotel.
Housed in a traditional bar that looks over
step-gabled building, it a lovely Japanese- Prinsenhof
offers clean, comfortable inspired garden. MAP K4
public areas and cosy
Ontvangersstraat 9
bedrooms with free Navarra
050 34 26 90 www.
050 34 41 11 www.
of Navarre is now a by the splendid palace
malleberg.be
hotel of unusual elegance of the dukes of Burgundy.
This home-from-home sited to the north of Something of the dukes
tastefully decorated the Markt. Navarra grand style pervades
hotel located in a town offers a high standard the decor on a smaller
house is family-run and of service and comfort, scale, of course. All of the
close to the Markt. The including a fitness centre, comfortable guest rooms
Places to Stay 129
are individually decorated. east of the Burg. Ter with flowers, is located
A hearty and varied buffet Reiens rooms are close to the old parish
breakfast is included. clean, and the double church of Sint-Gillis, in
bedrooms have capsule the quiet and historic
Bruges Hotels: bathrooms. A room with northern part of town
Budget a courtyard view is also but still just a 10-minute
good. Guests need to walk from the centre.
Bauhaus Hotel pay to access Wi-Fi. The interior is styled like
MAP M3 Langestraat
a private home, with a
135 (reception at 145) Hotel Ter Brughe welcome to match.
www.bauhaus.be
2 050 34 03 24 www.
Hotel Biskajer
A popular, energetic and hotelterbrughe.com
MAP K3 Biskajersplein
15-minute walk from the Augustijnenrei canal in This small 17-room hotel
centre, it prides itself on a charming web of old just north of the Markt
its cheap accommodation. streets. This well-run may lack amenities,
The Bauhaus bar serves hotel occupies a listed but this makes it an
more than 25 Belgian 16th-century house affordable option. All
beers, and bar snacks. overlooking the canal, rooms have en-suite
Free Wi-Fi. which boasts some bathrooms, and a buffet
impressive ancient breakfast is included
Charlie Rockets wooden beams, especially in the price. There is a
MAP L4 Hoogstraat 19
in the breakfast room and smart breakfast room
050 33 06 60 www.
in some of the spacious and a small, cosy bar
charlierockets.com
guest rooms. stocked with local beers.
Located just a two-minute No children under 16.
walk from the Burg is this Lucca
party hostel, above an MAP K3 Naaldenstraat
Patritius
American-style bar with 30 050 34 20 67
MAP L3 Riddersstraat
050 34 02 32 www.
merchants of Lucca with of the Markt. The stylish
passagebruges.com
connec-tions to Giovanni rooms and interior
An interesting budget hotel Arnolfini, the banker who garden are bonuses too.
with just 10 simple, well- features in Jan van Eycks
presented rooms (six famous painting, The Ter Duinen
doubles, two triples and Arnolfini Portrait. The MAP L2 Langerei 52
050 34 91 00 www.
hoteldepauw.be
(some with canal views)
hotelterreien.be
This pretty, family-run are double-glazed and
Fetchingly perched beside hotel, with its weathered air-conditioned, and the
the canal a little to the brick exterior draped public rooms are stylish.
For a key to hotel price categories see p124
130 Streetsmart
03 222 48 48 www.
hotel lies in a convenient
hotelrubensantwerp.be Mercure Antwerpen location close to the
separate living rooms and Located just behind the are decorated in a
lovely views. There is Meir shopping street, neat minimalist style.
Places to Stay 131
www.hostel47.com
Hotel de Flandre of the spacious rooms
This high-spec, privately MAP P2 Poel 12
have exposed beams,
owned youth hostel offers
09 266 06 00 www.
and also offers
nine rooms within walking hoteldeflandre.be
family rooms for
distance of Ghents histor- Tucked behind the up to six people,
ical centre. It has trendy Korenlei quayside, this and an apartment.
common areas with free stylish town house has
Wi-Fi and there is no retained plenty of period Ibis Gent Centrum
curfew for guests. The detail in its public areas Kathedraal
rooms sleep 26 people; while its bedrooms are MAP Q2 Limburgstraat
accorhotels.com
west of the city centre. cold choices. Guests have This chain certainly
access to a private car knows how to deliver
Erasmus Hotel park and are permitted style and comfort.
MAP P2 Poel 25
to bring small pets. The Belfort has all
09 224 21 95 www.
the facilities of a hotel
erasmushotel.be
Hotel Harmony of this rank, including
This 16th-century MAP Q1 Kraanlei 37
a fitness room and
patricians house, west
09 324 26 80 www.
sauna, and is very
of the city centre, retains hotel-harmony.be
centrally located,
many of its original A stylish, family-run hotel opposite the Stadhuis.
features and is decorated located in Patershol, the
with antiques. Its old- oldest quarter of Ghent. Sandton Grand
fashioned charm creates The hotel features a Hotel Reylof
the perfect backdrop for courtyard swimming pool MAP P2 Hoogstraat
MAP Q1 Waaistraat 5
with views over the city. A grand 18th-century
09 266 10 10 www.
mansion and a modern
ghent-river-hotel.be
Hotel Onderbergen extension provide luxury
This functional, modern MAP P3 Onderbergen
accommodation close
hotel has 77 rooms 69 09 223 62 00 www. to the historic centre.
16th-century house and Just 3 minutes walk from garden, bar, highly
a 19th-century factory. It Sint-Baafskathedraal, this regarded restaurant,
is located on the bank of boutique hotel is and a wellness centre.
For a key to hotel price categories see p124
132 General Index
Index
Page numbers in bold refer B Breweries see Beer
to main entries Baekeland, Lo-Hendrik 43 Breydel, Jan 41
Balat, Alphonse 19 Bruegel, Pieter the Elder 44,
A Baldwin Iron-Arm, Count of 73, 76
Accommodation 12331 Flanders 41 The Village Lawyer 52
The Adoration of the Magi Banks 119, 120 Bruges 9099
(Memling) 30 Baroque architecture 47 Bruges for free 65
The Adoration of the Mystic Bars The Burg 7, 13, 289, 91
Lamb (van Eyck) 8, 13, Antwerp 107 cafs, tearooms and bars
367, 44, 47, 53, 109 Bruges 97 97
Air travel 116, 117 Brussels 78, 87 canal boat trips 57
Albert, Archduke 41 Ghent 112 Eastern Bruges 54, 95
Ambulances 119 Basilique Nationale du Golden Age 31
Amusement parks Sacr-Coeur (Brussels) Groeningemuseum 13,
Belfort (Bruges) 567 49, 86 3031, 53, 91
Boudewijn Seapark Bavo, St 109 hotels 1279
(Bruges) 57 Bed-and-Breakfasts 123 lunch spots, bistros,
Bruparck (Brussels) 56 Beer 6061, 1223 brasseries 99
Walibi Belgium 57, 68 Cantillon (Brussels) 86 maps 7, 90, 91
Ancienne Belgique Huisbrouwerij De Halve restaurants 989
(Brussels) 58 Maan (Bruges) 94 Seven days in Brussels,
Antiques shops 60 De Koninck Brewery Bruges, Ghent and
Antonello da Messina 37 (Antwerp) 104 Antwerp 7
Antwerp 100107 Begijnhof (Antwerp) 55 shopping 96
Antwerp for free 65 Begijnhof (Bruges) 7, 93 Sint-Janshospitaal 7, 13,
bars and clubs 107 Bguinage dAnderlecht 3031, 53, 92
cafs and restaurants (Brussels) 55, 86 two museums 3031
106 Bguinages 92 walks 65, 93
hotels 130 Belfort (Bruges) 7, 567, 91 Brunfaut, Jules 48
maps 9, 100101, 103 Belfort (Ghent) 109, 111 Bruparck (Brussels) 56
Rubenshuis 9, 13, 345 Belgian Revolution (1830) 41 Brussels
Seven days in Brussels, BELvue Museum (Brussels) Art Nouveau buildings
Bruges, Ghent and 76 489
Antwerp 9 Biscuit shops 60, 61 bars and cafs 78, 87
shopping 105 Bistros Brussels for free 64
walk 103 Bruges 99 Central Brussels 7281
Antwerp Cathedral 9, 13, Brussels 81 Comics Art Museum 7, 12,
323 Blinde Ezelstraat (Bruges) 267, 49, 56, 74
Antwerp Zoo 56 28 Grand Place 1011, 12,
Aquarium Boat trips 57 1417, 64, 73
Aquatopia (Antwerp) 57 Boerentoren (Antwerp) 103 Horta Museum 7, 12, 223
Architecture 47 Bordiau, Gdon 51 hotels 1246
Art Nouveau buildings in Bords de la Lys (Claus) 45 maps 6, 72, 75, 823, 85
Brussels 489 Bosch, Hieronymus 111 Muse des Instruments de
Arentshuis (Bruges) 92 The Last Judgment 30 Musique 6, 12, 2021, 49,
Art and Design Atomium Le Botanique (Brussels) 59 50, 57, 73, 75
Museum (Brussels) 83 Boudewijn Seapark (Bruges) Muses Royaux des
Art Deco architecture 47 57 Beaux-Arts (Brussels) 6,
Art galleries see Museums Boulenger, Hippolyte 18 12, 1819, 50, 52, 73, 75
and galleries La Bourse (Brussels) 6, 16 nightlife 79
The Art Gallery of Cornelis Bouts, Dirk 18 Outer Brussels 827
van der Geest (Rubens) Martyrdom of Saint restaurants 8081, 87
34 Hippolytus 31 shopping 77
Art Nouveau 47 Brabantine Gothic Two days in Brussels 67
Art Nouveau buildings in architecture 47 walks 75, 85
Brussels 489 Braekeleer, Henri de Bruyn, Guillaume de 14, 15
Horta Museum (Brussels) The Card Players 73 Budget travel
12, 223 Brangwyn, Frank 92 hotels 65, 126, 129
Artists 445 Brasseries money-saving tips 65
Astrid, Queen 42 Bruges 99 Buls, Charles 17
Athletics 67 Brussels 81 The Burg (Bruges) 7, 13,
The Atomium (Brussels) 49, Breidelstraat (Bruges) 28 289, 91
82 Brel, Jacques 42 Burgundy, dukes of 31, 40
General Index 133
Acknowledgments
Author Sergey Dzyuba 68b; Eye Ubiquitous/Bernard
Antony Mason is the author of a number of Regent 12bl; Herg-Moulinsart /Neil Farrin
guide books, including the Cadogan City Guides 12br; Kevin Galvin 96br; Garden Photo World/
to Bruges and to Brussels (with Bruges, Ghent David C Phillips 74cl, 77cl; Garden Photo World/
and Antwerp), and the main contributor to David C. Phillips 51crb; Kevin George 55tl, 76b;
the DK Eyewitness Guide to Belgium and Hemis / Ludovic Maisant 48tl, 106bl, /Maurizio
Luxembourg. He writes frequently for the Daily Borgese 23cl; Herg-Moulinsart / Jochen
Telegraph on Brussels and Belgium and is the Tack 56bc; Herg-Moulinsart /Maurice
author of the volume on The Belgians in the Savage 63clb; Heritage Image Partnership Ltd/
humorous Xenophobes Guides series along Fine Art Images 41crb; New Horizons 15cla;
with more than 80 other books on history, Peter Horree 58cb, 112clb; imageBROKER/KFS
geography, exploration and art. He lives in 35cl; Eric James 15bc; Oliver Knight 48br, 78cla,
113bl; Douglas Lander 7cr; Peter Lane 96cla;
London with his Belgian wife Myriam.
Maurice Savage 12c; Bombaert Patrick 53tr;
Pictorial Press 59tr; PjrTravel 14bl, 16bl, 46br;
Publishing Director Georgina Dee Prisma Bildagentur AG/Raga Jose Fuste 68tl;
Publisher Vivien Antwi Juergen Ritterbach 86cl; sagaphoto.com/
Design Director Phil Ormerod Stephane Gautier 80br; Neil Setchfield 53clb;
Kumar Sriskandan 13cra; Travel Pictures 4b,
Editorial Michelle Crane, Hayley Maher, Freddie 59cl; travelpix 78br; Terence Waeland 44bl;
Marriage, Scarlett OHara, Aakanksha Singh, Westend61 GmbH/Werner Dieterich 49cl; World
Jackie Staddon, Hollie Teague History Archive 8br.
Design Richard Czapnik, Marisa Renzullo, Antwerp Zoo: Jonas Verhulst 56t.
Richa Verma
Archiduc: Nathalie Du Four 79tl.
Commissioned Photography Demetrio
Archives du Muse Horta, Saint-Gilles,
Carrasco, Rough Guides/Jean-Christophe
Bruxelles: Paul Louis 22ca,22crb, 22bl, 23tl, 23bc.
Godet
Bistro Christophe: 99cl.
Picture Research Susie Peachey, Ellen Root,
Lucy Sienkowska, Oran Tarjan Bridgeman Images: Patrick Lorette 41cla;
Lukas - Art in Flanders VZW 30cla, 30crb, 30br.
Cartography Dominic Beddow, Simonetta
Giori, Zafar-ul Islam Khan, Suresh Kumar, Caf dAnvers: 107cra.
Casper Morris Comics Art Museum: 74t; Daniel Fouss 4cla,
DTP Jason Little, George Nimmo 26cl, 26-7, 27tl; Herg-Moulinsart /Daniel
Fouss 27br.
Production Niamh Tierney
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Indexer Hilary Bird 40c; Loop Images/Anna Stowe 105tl; Francis G.
Mayer 44tl; Sutton Images/ Phipps 43tr; Sygma/
Illustrator chrisorr.com Jacques Pavlovsky 42t.
DACS 2016: BI, ADAGP, Paris 19tl.
First edition created by DP Services, a division
of Duncan Petersen Publishing Ltd Design Museum Ghent: Phile Deprez 111cl.
Dreamstime.com: Alessandro0770 4cl;
Amzphoto 16cr; Leonid Andronov 75bl;
Picture Credits Bombaert 4clb; Gunold Brunbauer 50bl;
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photographs: 109br; Europhotos 2tl, 10-1, 73tr; Evgeniy
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Acknowledgments 139