Chapter One General Information Chapter Two Troubleshooting Chapter Three Periodic Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up Chapter Five oe Clutch, Primary Drive, Transmission and Kiokstartor Chapter Six Fuel and Exhaust Systems 1 Chapter Seven ee Electrical System Chapter Eight ee Front Suspension and Steering Chapter Nine Ee Rear Suspension Chapter Ten Brakes voCONTENTS ‘QUICK REFERENCE DATA. CHAPTER ONE GENERAL INFORMATION. . Manual organization Lubricants Notes, cautions and warnings Serial numbers Safety fi Parts replacement Service hins Basic hand tools ‘Torque specifications ‘Test equipment Fasteners Mechanic's tips CHAPTER TWO. TROUBLESHOOTING .. Operating requirements Starting system ‘Troubleshooting instruments Electrical problems Emergency troubleshooting Ignition system Engine starting Breaker point ignition troubleshooting Engine performance Breakerles ignition troubleshooting, Engine noises Excessive vibration Engine lubrication Carburetor troubleshooting Clutch Front suspension and steering. Transmission Brake problems, Charging system CHAPTER THREE PERIODIC LUBRICATION, MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP. Routine checks Suspension adjustment Maintenance intervals ‘Tune-up Tires and wheels Breaker point ignition service Battery Breakerless ignition service (late 1978-1979) Periodic lubrication Breakerless ignition service (1980-on) Periodic maintenance Carburetor adjustmentsCHAPTER FOUR ENGINE. -96 Engine principles Cylinder Servicing engine in frame Pistons and piston rings Engine il pump Rocker arm coverieylinder head Gearcase cover and timing gears Pushrods Crankcase Valves and valve components CHAPTER FIVE CLUTCH, PRIMARY DRIVE, TRANSMISSION AND KICKSTARTER . . 147 Chuteh Foot shifter (1966-early 1979) Primary chain Shifter cover (late 1979-1984) Primary belt Shift forks Compensating sprocket Kickstarter and starter elutch Primary chainvbelt case Side cover (electric start) “Transmission Electric starter drive Hand shifter cover (1966-carly 1978) Shifter adjustment CHAPTER SIX FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS . = = 203 Air cleaner Foe! tank Carburetors Fuel supply valve ‘Throttle cable replacement Exhaust system CHAPTER SEVEN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM .. 223 Charging system (1966-1969) Starter ‘Voltage regulator (1966-1969) Starter solenoid Charging system (1970-1984) Lighting system Circuit breaker Switches Ignition system (late 1978-1979) Hom Ignition system (1980-0n) Fuses and circuit beakers Ignition coil CHAPTER EIGHT . 269 FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING. Front whee! Front hub ‘Wheel balance Tire changing ‘Tire repairs (tube-type tires) ‘Tire repairs (tubeless type) Handlebar and throttle control Steering head Front forksCHAPTER NINE REAR SUSPENSION . 313, Rear wheel ‘Wheel balancing Rear hub ‘Tire changing. Driven sprocket assembly Rear swing arm Drive chain Shock absorbers Drive belt CHAPTER TEN BRAKES ..... Rear drum brake (1966-1972) Brake disc Dise brakes Rear master cylinder Dise brake pad replacement Brake hose replacement Brake caliper Bleeding the system INDEX. 369 WIRING DIAGRAMS . - END OF BOOKQUICK REFERENCE DATA ‘TIRE PRESSURE Front Rear PSI kglem? PSI kgiem? "1996-1968 Solo 5.10516 5.0016 ‘With passenger $1016 5.0016 Fier with sidocar ‘passenger or 150 tb. load 5.1016 5.00 «16 1870-0arly 1978 FL series Solo With passenger FX series Solo With passenger FL series (rider with sidecar passenger or 150 Ib: load) Late 1978-00 FL soles Solo ‘with passenter FX series (except FXWG) Solo With passenger FRWS: Solo ‘With passenger FL series (rider with sidecar ‘assenger of 140 Ib, load) 1a 1.69 183 an 2h 158 169 3 1.33 197 1.88 1.68 4.83 1.83 197 1.89 197 8 88 BR RR 1.88 2 tat ‘CAUTION: Maximum pressure fora tres is 96 pl (2.53 kglem). NOTE: Thege pressures are based on 150 Ib (66.08 Kg rier weight. For each extra 50lb. (22.60 kg) add 2 psi {0-44 kafcm) @ rear, 1 pal (0.07 kglem") @ front and 1 pt (0.07 kgica') @ eldecar tre. Do not exceed max: ‘mum pressure of 36 psi (2.53 kg’cm’). ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION OIL CAPACITY ‘Quantity ‘quarts (76 L, 8.3 imp. at) 402 pints (0.77 L, 0.62 imp. at) ®RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS AND FLUIDS* Brake fia Through 1975 bors 1876-00 ors Fork ol 1966-1989 HO Hydra-Glie fork ol! 1970-0n HD type B Battery op up Distilled water ‘Transmission HD transmission lubricant Primary chainease HD primary chalncase HD special light HO medium heavy 1380 degrees F and up HO regular heavy Severe engine operating Conditions @ +80" F HD extra heavy grade 60 10-90 F-normal and severe operating conditions HD Power Blend Super Premium * Lubricants recommended are Harley-Davidson brands, BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE ‘Specitic gravity State of charge 410-1430 ‘Discharged 12140-11160 ‘Almost discharged 43170-1.190 ‘One-quarter charged 41.200-1250, ‘One-half charged 412304.250° ‘Three-quarters charged 1,2604.280 Fully charged SPARK PLUG TYPE AND GAP* Tyre 11966-1978 HD No. 4 4978-1976 HO No. 5-6 197741979 HD No. 5A6 (6tandard) or HD No. SRS (resistor) 1880-00 HD No. SRBA or HO No, SRL Gap 1966-1959, 10,025-0.080 in, (0.63-0.76 mm) 1970-early 1978 101028-0.033 in. (0.71-0.84 mm) Late 1978-00 '0.036-0.043 in. (0.96-1.09 mn) * Sperk plugs recommended are Harley-Davideon brands.FRONT FORK OIL CAPACITY. ‘Quantity "7968-1960 = ‘Wet 6 17202. (1922 ce, 6.76 imp. oz) Dry 7.92. (207 c¢, 7.28 imp. oz) 1970-early 1978 FX Series 1970-1972 Wet 15112 92, (1626 e6, 5.72 imp.o2) 6-172 oz. (1922 cc, 6.76 imp. 02) Dry 1973-0arly 1978 Wet Sez. (147.8 co, 52 imp.oz) 6.02. (177.4 ce, 6.24 imp. 07) 6 17202. (1922 cc, 6.76 imp. oz) 7.92, (207 ee, 728 imp. 02.) 718 on (2292 ¢6, 62), Stinor Gt den eosimp- 2c) 7 3/8 229,2 ce, 8.06 imp. oz) ‘81/2 02 254.3 oc, BBS imp. oz) ‘oz. (147.8 cn, 5.2 imp. 02) G02. (177.4 er, 6.24 imp. oz) 9 114 oz. (27355 ce, 9.62 imp. 92) $002, (295.7.6c, 10.4 mp, 02) TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS. 1966-1988 Breaker point gap 4.52010. (085 mm) wet reading 80° @ 2.000 rm Ignion ting Retarded ser00 Astomatic a5'Br00 e70Emty 1078 Breaker oin gop 0.220 n. (051 mm) Ignition ting : Retarded Advance Late 1aeen ion er Sierarecere “9004-0008: (01020.152 mm) ‘toon No aalustment lontion ting Shctrone 90 ps! or over (6:48 kglem* or over) 100 pal of over (7.03 kgfem* or over) ‘Acceptable Variance between cylinders 1966-carly 1978 28 psi ores (204 kgm? or over) Late 1978-1964 40 psi of less (0.70 kglem™ ot over)DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS Decimal in Metric Fractions Dechnal a Metric 0.018625 0.03125 0.046875, 0.0625 ‘.o7ei25 0.00975 0.109575 0125 0.140605 015625 ox7s675 07675 0.2033125 o2re7s ‘o23aa75 0280 0.265625 oz6125 0.296075, 0.5125. 0.326125, 0.34375 0.359875 0.375 0.390625 ‘0.40625, o.aa1875 0.4975 o.asa125 0.46875 0.484375 0.500 0.39685 0.78375 1.19062 188750 1.98837 23125 2rrsi2 3.1750 asrie7 3368 25,64 ate 37164 1032 30164 58. 4384 2332 0.515625 0.53125 0.346875 09625 og76126 oea7s ‘600975 0628 640625 ‘65625 osri875 (06875 0.708125, o7t675 0.734375, 0.750 0.765625 ‘075125 0.796575 0.8125 26125 0.84375 0.359975 087s ‘.sa06a5 ‘90625 ‘oat67s ‘oa75 953125 0.96875, 9.984375. 00 ya.006e7 49.49975 13,09062 1428750 14.0849 16,08125 45.7612 1887500 se27187 16.66875 1706582 17.46250 1735097 re.25625 1865512 18.0500 1944607 so8as75 2024062 20.89750 0387 21as125 2182812 2222500 2a52187 2a01875 23,41562 2381250 2420097 2460625 25.0512 5.40000CHAPTER ONE GENERAL INFORMATION ‘Troubleshooting, tune-up, maintenance and repair are not difficult, if you know what tools and equip- ‘ment to use and what to do, Anyone of average intelligence and with some mechanical ability can perform most of the procedures inthis manual. The ‘manual is written simply and clearly enough for ‘owners who have never worked on amotoreycle, but is complete enough for use by experienced mechan- It is important to note that because of the parts interchangeability between different models of Har- ley-Davidson motoreycles, your model, if purchased ‘second hand, may be equipped with parts different from its original equipment, ‘Some of the procedures require the use of special tools. Using an inferior substitute tool fora special tool is not recommended, as it can be dangerous to you and may damage the part. Where possible, this ‘manual shows suitable special tools that can be fabricated in your garage or by a machinist or pur- chased at motoreycle of tool stores. General specifications are listed in Table 1. Met- ricto U.S, conversion is given in Table 2, Tables 1-5 are listed atthe end of the chapter. MANUAL ORGANIZATION This chapter provides general information and discusses equipment and tools useful both for pre- ‘ventive maintenance and troubleshooting. Chapter Two provides methods and suggestions for quick and accurate diagnosis and repair of prob- lems. Troubleshooting procedures discuss typical symptoms and logical methods to pinpoint the trouble. Chapter Three explains all periodic lubrication ‘and routine maintenance necessary to keep your Harley-Davidson operating well. Chapter Three also includes recommended tune-up procedures, elimi- nating the constant need to consult ther chapters on. the various assemblies. Subsequent chapters describe specific systems such as the engine, clutch, primary drive, transmis- sion, fuel, exhaust, suspension, steering and brakes. Each chapter provides disassembly, repair, and as- sembly procedures in simple step-by-step form. Ifa repair is impractical for a home mechanic, itis so indicated. It is usually faster and less expensive to take such repairs to a dealer or competent repait shop. Specifications concerning a particular system. are included at the end of the appropriate chapter. NOTES, CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS ‘The terms NOTE, CAUTION and WARNING have specific meanings in this manual. A NOTE provides additional information to make a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregarding a NOTE ‘could cause inconvenience, but would not cause ‘damage or personal injury.ACAUTION emphasizes areas where equipment damage could occur, Disregarding 2 CAUTION could cause permanent mechanical damage; how- ‘ever, personal injury is unlikely. A WARNING emphasizes areas where personal injury or even death could result from negligence. ‘Mechanical damage may also occur. WARNINGS are to be taken seriously. In some cases, serious injury and death have resulted from disregarding similar warnings, SAFETY FIRST Professional mechanics can work for years and never sustain a serious injury. If you observe a few rules of common sense and safety, you can enjoy ‘many safe hours servicing your own machine. If you ignore these rules you can hurt yourself or damage the equipment. 1. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. 2. Never smoke or use a torch in the vicinity of ‘flammable liquids, such as cleaning solvent, in open containers, 3. If welding or brazing is required on the machine, remove the fuel tank and rear shocks to a safe distance, atleast 50 feet away. Welding on a gas tank requires special safety precautions and must be per- formed by someone skilled in the process. Do not attempt to weld or braze a leaking gas tank. 4, Use the proper sized wrenches to avoid damage to fasteners and injury to yourself. ‘When loosening a tight or stuck nut, be guided by What would happen if the wrench should slip. Be careful, protect yourself accordingly. 6, When replacing a fastener, make sure to use one with the same measurements and strength as the old ‘one. Incorrect or mismatched fasteners can result in ‘damage to the vehicie and possible personal injury. Beware of fastener kts that are filled with cheap and poorly made nuts, bolts, washers and cotter pins, Refer to Fasteners in this chapter for additional information, 7. Keep all hand and power tools in good condition. Wipe greasy and oily tools after using them, They are difficult to hold and can cause injury. Replace or repair wom or damaged tools. 8. Keep your work area clean and uncluttered. ‘9. Wear safety goggles during all operations involv- ing drilling, grinding, the use of cold chisel or anytime you feel unsure about the safety of your CHAPTER ONE ‘eyes. Safety goggles should also be worn anytime ‘compressed air is used to clean a part. 10. Keep an approved fire extinguisher nearby. Be sure itis rated for gasoline (Class B) and electrical (Class © fires. 11. When drying bearings or other rotating parts with compressed air, never allow the air jet to rotate the bearing or part; the ar jet is capable of rotating them at speeds far in excess of those for which they ‘were designed. The bearing or rotating partis very likely to disintegrate and cause serious injury and damage. SERVICE HINTS Most of the service procedures covered are straightforward and can be performed by anyone reasonably handy with tools. It is suggested, how- ever, that you consider your own capabilities care fully before attempting any operation involving ‘major disassembly of the engine or transmission. 1. “Front,” as used inthis manual, refers to the front ‘of the motorcycle; the front of any component isthe ‘end closest to the front ofthe motorcycle. The “Ieft-" and “right-hand” sides refer to the position of the parts as viewed by a rider sitting on the seat facing. forward. For example, the throttle control is on the. right-hand side. These rules are simple, but confu- sion can cause a major inconvenience during serv- 2. Whenever servicing the engine or transmission, ‘or when removing a suspension component, the bike should be secured in a safe manner. Ifthe bike is to be parked on its sidestand, check the stand 10 make sure itis secure and not damaged. Block the front and rear wheels ifthey remain on the ground. Asmall hydraulic jack and a block of wood can be used to raise the chassis. Ifthe transmission is not going 1o bbe worked on and the drive chain or drive belt is ‘connected to the rear wheel, shift the transmission into first gear 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable when work- ing on or near the electrical, clutch or starter systems and before disconnecting any wires. On most batter- ies, the negative terminal will be marked with a ‘minus (-) sign and the positive terminal with a plus #) sign 4. When disassembling a part or component, itis @ ‘good practice to tag the parts for location and mark all parts which mate together. Small parts, such as.GENERAL INFORMATION bolts, can be identified by placing them in plastic sandiwich bags. Seal the bags and label them with ‘masking tape and a marking pen. When reassembly will take place immediately, an accepted practice i to place nuts and bolts in a cupcake tin or egg carton in the order of disassembly. 5. Finished surfaces should be protected from physi- cal damage or corrosion. Keep gasoline and brake fluid off painted surfaces 6. Use penetrating oil on frozen or tight bots, then strike the bolt head a few times with a hammer and Punch (use a screwdriver on serews). Avoid the use ‘of heat where possible, as itcan warp, melt or affect the temper of parts, Heat also ruins finishes, espe- cially paint and plasties. 7. Keep flames and sparks away from a charging battery or flammable fluids and do not smoke near them. Itis a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy in the work area, Remember that many gas appliances in home garages (Water heater, clothes dryer, et.) have pilot lights 8, Noparts removed or installed (other than bushings ‘and bearings) in the procedures given inthis manual should require unusual force during disassembly or assembly. Ifa partis difficult to remove of instal, find out why before proceeding. 9. Cover all openings after removing parts or com- ‘ponents to prevent dirt, small tools, et. from falling 10, Read each procedure completely while looking at the actual parts before starting a job. Make sure ‘you thoroughly understand what is to be done and then carefully follow the procedure, step by step. 11, Recommendations are occasionally made to re fer service or maintenance to a Harley-Davidson dealer or a specialist in a particular field. In these ceases, the work will be done more quickly and ‘economically than if you performed the job yourself. 12. In procedural steps, he term “replace” means to discard a defective part and replace it with a new or exchange unit. “Overhaul” means to remove, disas- semble, inspect, measure, repair or replace defective parts, reassemble and install major systems or parts. 13, Some operations require the use of a hydraulic press. It would be wiser to have these operations performed by a shop equipped for such work, rather than try to do the job yourself with makeshift equip- ‘ment that may damage your machine, 14, Repairs go much faster and easier if your ma- chine is clean before you begin to work. There are ‘many special cleaners on the market, like Bel-Ray Degreaser, for washing the engine and related parts. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the con- tainer for the best results. Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning solvent as you remove them, WARNING Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent It presents an extreme fire hazard. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area when using cleaning solvent. Keep afire extinguisher, rated for gasoline fires, handy in any case, 15, Much of the labor changes for repairs made by dealers are for the labor time involved in removal, disassembly, assembly, and reinstallation of other parts in order to reach the defective part. It i fre- ‘quently possible to perform the preliminary opera tions yourself and then take the defective unit to the dealer for repair at considerable savings. 16. Ifspecial tools are required, make arrangements to get them before you start. It is frustrating and time-consuming to get partly into a job and then be tunable to complete it. 17, Make diagrams (or take « Polaroid picture) wher- ‘ever similar-appearing parts are found. For instance, ‘crankcase bolts are often not the same Tength. You may think you can remember where everything ‘came from—but mistakes are costly, There is also the possibilty that you may be sidetracked and not retum to work for days or even weeks—in which time carefully laid out parts may have become i turbed 18, When assembling parts, be sure all shims and ‘washers ane replaced exactly as they came out 19, Whenever a rotating part butts against a station ary part, look for a shim or washer. Use new gaskets. if there is any doubt about the condition of the old ‘ones, A thin coat of oil on non-pressure type gaskets. ‘may help them seal more effectively. 20. IFit is necessary to make a gasket, and you do nothave a suitable old gasket touse asa guide, apply engine oil 10 the gasket surface of the part. Then place the parton the new gasket material and press the part slightly. The oil will leave a very accurate ‘outline on the gasket material that can be cut around. 21, Heavy grease can be used to hold small parts in place if they tend to fall out during assembly. How- ‘ever, keep grease and oil away from electrical and brake components,CHAPTER ONE 22. A carburetor is best cleaned by disassembling it and soaking the parts in a commercial carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rubber pars in these cleaners, Never use wire to clean out jets and air passages unless otherwise instructed to do so in Chapter Six. They are easily damaged. Use com- pressed air to blow out the carburetor only if the float hhas been removed first. 23, Take your time and do the job right. Do not forget that a newly rebuilt engine must be broken in just like a new one, TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ‘Torque specifications throughout this manual are aiven in foot-pounds (ft-Ib.) and Newton-meters (Nem). ‘Table 3 ists general torque specifications for nuts and bolts that are not listed in the respective chap- ters, To use the table, first determine the size of the nut or bolt. Figure 1 and Figure 2 show how this is done, FASTENERS ‘The materials and designs of the various fasteners used on your Harley-Davidson are not arrived at by chance or accident. Fastener design determines the type of tool required to work the fastener. Fastener ‘material is carefully selected to decrease the possi- bility of physical failure. ‘Threads ‘Nuts, bolts and screws are manufactured in a wide range of thread patterns. To join a nut and bolt, the diameter of the bolt and diameter of the hole in the ‘mut must be the same. It is just as important thatthe threads on both be properly matched, ‘The best way to tell if the threads on 2 fasteners are matched is to tum the nut on the bolt (or the bolt into the threaded hole in a piece of equipment) with fingers only. Be sure both pieces are clean. If much force is required, check the thread condition on each fastener, If the thread condition is good but the fasteners jam, the threads are not compatible. A thread pitch gauge can also be used to determine threads per inch. Four important specifications describe every thread:GENERAL INFORMATION a, Diameter, b. Threads per inch. ©, Thread pattern, 4. Thread direction. Figure 3 shows the first 2 specifications, Thread pattern is more subtle. Italian and British standards exist, but the most commonly used by motorcycle ‘manufacturers are metric standard and American standard. Harley-Davidsons are manufactured with o ‘Amerioan x \ * Metric ‘American standard fasteners. The threads are cut differently as shown in Figure 4, ‘Most threads are cut so that the fastener must be tamed clockwise to tighten it. These are called right- ‘hand threads, Some fastenershave lef-hand threads; they must be turned counterclockwise to be tight- ened, Left-hand threads are used in locations where normal rotation of the equipment would tend to loosen a right-hand threaded fastener. jachine Screws ‘There are many different types of machine screws, Figure 5 shows a number of screw heads requiring different types of turning tools. Heads are also de- signed to protrude above the metal (round) orto be slightly recessed inthe metal la). See Figure 6 Bolts Commonly called bolts, the technical name for these fasteners is cap screw. They are normally de- scribed by diameter, threads per inch and length. For cexample, 1/4-20x 1 indicates a bolt 1/4 in. in diame- ter with 20 threads per inch, | inch long. The meas urement across 2 flats on the head of the bolt indicates the proper wrench size to be used. Figure 3 shows how to determine bolt diameter Slotted Philips OPENINGS FOR TURNING TOOLS Allen AA AP Internal Torx External Torx ® MACHINE SCREWS RAK Filister ound KR®&Nuts [Nuts are manufactured in a variety of types and sizes. Most are hexagonal (6-sided) and ft on bolts, screws and studs with the same diameter and threads perinch, Figure 7 shows several types of nuts. The com- ‘mon nut is generally used with a lockwasher. Self- locking nuts have a nylon insert which prevents the nut from loosening; no lockwasheris required, Wing huts are designed for fast removal by hand. Wing huts are used for convenience in non-critical loca- tions ‘Toindicate the size ofa nut, manufacturers specify the diameter of the opening and the threads per inch. ‘This is similar to bolt specifications, but without the length dimension. The measurement of the inside bore (Figure 1) indicates the diameter of the nut opening. Prevailing Torque Fasteners Several types of bolts, screws and nuts incorporate ‘a system that develops an interference between the bolt, screw, nut or tapped hole threads. Interference is achieved in various ways: by distorting threads, coating threads with dry adhesive or nylon, distort- ing the top of an all-metal nut, using a nylon insert in the center or atthe top of a nut, etc. Prevailing torque fasteners offer greater holding strength and better vibration resistance. Some pre- vailing torque fasteners can be reused if in good condition. Others, like the nylon insert nut, form an initial locking condition when the nut is first i stalled; the nylon forms closely to the bolt thread patter, thus reducing any tendency for the nut 10 Joosen. When the nut is removed, the locking effi- ciency is greatly reduced, For greatest safety, itis recommended that you install new prevailing torque fasteners whenever they are removed. Washers There are 2 basic types of washers: flat washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are simple dises with ‘hole to fit a screw or bolt. Lockwashers are de- signed to prevent a fastener from working loose due to vibration, expansion and contraction, Figure 8 shows several types of washers. Washers are also used in the following functions: CHAPTER ONE 1. As spacers ’b. To prevent galling or damage ofthe equipment by the fastener. ¢. To help distribute fastener load during tor- quing. . As seals, Note that flat washers are often used between a lockwasher and a fastener to provide a smooth bear- ‘ng surface. This allows the fastener to be tuned ‘easily with a tool, Cotter Pins Cotter pins (Figure 9) are used to secure special kinds of fasteners. The threaded stud must have ©) Common nut @ OD ‘Seltiocking nut 4 Folding Internal tooth External toothGENERAL INFORMATION Full support areas = hole in it; the nut or nut lockpiece has castelations around which the cotter pin ends wrap. Cotter pins should not be reused after removal. Snap Rings Snap ings can be internal orexternal design. They are used to retain items on shafts (extemal type) or ‘within tubes (intemal type). In some applications, snap rings of varying thicknesses are used to control the end play of parts assemblies. These ae often called selective snap rings. Snap rings should be replaced during installation as removal weakens and deforms them. ‘Two basic styles of snap rings are available: ma- ‘chined and stamped snap rings. Machined snap rings igure 10) can be installed in either direction (shalt ‘or housing) because both faces are machined, thus creating two sharp edges. Stamped snap rings (Fig- ure 11) are manufactured with one sharp edge and one rounded edge. When installing stamped snap rings ina thrust situation (transmission shafts, fork tubes etc), the sharp edge must face away from the part producing the thrust. When installing snap rings, observe the following: ‘a. Compress or expand snap rings only enough to install them. ». After the snap ring is installed, make sure it is completly seated in its groove, LUBRICANTS Periodic lubrication assures long life for any type ‘of equipment. The zype of lubricant used is just as ‘important as the lubrication service itself, although in an emergency the wrong type of lubricants better than none at all, The following paragraphs describe the types of lubricants most often used on motorcy- cle equipment. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for lubricant types. Generally, all liquid lubricants are called “oil.” ‘They may be mineral-based (including petroleum ‘bases), natural-based (vegetable and animal bases), synthetic-based or emulsions (mixtures). “Grease” is an oil to which a thickening base has been added so thatthe end product is semi-solid, Grease is often classified by the type of thickener added; lithium soap is commonly used.CHAPTER ONE Engine Oil Oil for motorcycle and automotive engines is ‘araded by the American Petroleum Institute (APD and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several categories. Oil containers display these rat- ings on the top or label, API oil grade is indicated by letters; oils for gaso- line engines are identified by an “S.” The engines ‘covered in this manual require SE or SF graded oil. Viscosity is an indication of the oil's thickness. ‘The SAE uses numbers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low numbers while thick oils have high ‘numbers. AW" after the number indicates that the viscosity testing was done at low temperature 10 simulate cold-weather operation. Engine oils fall into the SW-30 and 20W-50 range. Multi-grade oils (for example 10W-40) are less viscous (thinner) at low temperatures and more vis- ‘cous (thicker) at high temperatures. This allows the cil to perform efficiently across a wide range of ‘engine operating conditions. The lower the number, the better the engine will start in cold climates. Higher numbers are usually recommended for en- gine running in hot weather conditions. Grease Greases are graded by the National Lubricating Grease Institute (NGI). Greases are graded by ‘number according to the consistency of the grease; these range from No. 000 to No. 6, with No.6 being the most solid. A typical multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2. For specific applications, equipment ‘manufacturers may require grease with an additive such as molybdenum disulfide (MOS2). SERIAL NUMBERS ‘Three types of serial numbers have been used on 1966-1984 Shovelhead engines. 1966-1969 ‘The engine serial number is stamped on a pad on the left-hand crankcase, From 1966-1969 the engine serial number is a code describing year of manufacture, model type and sequential serial number. The first 2 numbers describe the year of manufacture, The letters follow- ing the manufacture year describe the model type (FL, FLH, FLT or FLHP). The last 4 or 5 numbers are the sequential serial number. For example, the serial number 69F1LH00000 indicates thatthe engine is 1969 model, FLH indicates a Shovelhead engine ‘and 00000 is its sequential serial number. Most all of the Harley-Davidsons manufactured 10 1969 do not have a factory stamped frame serial ‘number. If you havea 1966-1969 model witha frame serial number, it should be suspect. 1970-1984 ‘The vehicle identification number (VIN) is stamped on a pad on the right-hand engine crank- ‘case, The frame VIN number is stamped on the right-hand side of the steering head, All 1978-1984 ‘models have a VIN label attached to the right front frame downtube. On 1970-1980 models, the VIN is a 9-digit code describing the model type, sequential serial number, ‘manufacturer code and year of manufacture. The ‘VIN numbers on the engine, frame and frame label are the same, See Table 4, ‘On 1981-1984 models, the VIN is a 17-digit code describing the country of origin, manufacturer, Har- ley-Davidson code, model type, mode introduction date, factory check number, year of manufacture, assembly piant and a 6-digit sequential serial num- ber The full 17-digit code is stamped on the frame steering head and printed on the VIN label. The engine number is an abbreviated 10-digit code. It lists the model code, model type, year of manufac: ture and sequential number. See Table 5. PARTS REPLACEMENT Harley-Davidson makes frequent changes during a model year; some minor, some relatively major. ‘When you order parts from the dealer or other parts distributor, always order by engine and frame num- bet. Write the numbers down and carry them with ‘you. Compare new parts to old before purchasing them. If they are not alike, have the parts manager explain the difference to you.ENERAL INFORMATION BASIC HAND TOOLS Many of the procedures in this manual can be carried out with simple hand tools and test equip- ‘ment familiar to the average home mechanic. Keep your tools clean and in atool box. Keep them organ- ized with the sockets and related drives together, the ‘open-end combination wrenches together, etc. After using a tool, wipe off dirt and grease with a clean loth and return the tool to its correct place. ‘Top-quality tools are essential; they are also more ‘economical in the long run. If you are now starting to build your too! collection, stay away from the “advertised specials” featured at some parts houses, discount stores and chain drug stores. These are usually a poor grade tool that can be sold cheaply and that is exactly what they are—cheap. They are usually made of inferior material, and are thick, heavy and clumsy. Their rough finish makes them Gifficut to clean and they usually don't last very Tong. IF it is ever your misfortune to use such tools you will probably find out that the wrenches do not fit the heads of bolts and nuts correctly and damage fasteners, Quality tools are made of alloy steel and are heat ‘ueated for greater strength. They are lighter and. better balanced than cheap ones. Their surface is smooth, making them a pleasure to work with and easy to clean, The initial cost of good-quality tools ® ‘may be more, but they are cheaper in the long run. Don’t ty to buy everything in all sizes inthe begin- ning; do it a litle at a time until you have the necessary tools. To sum up tool buying, "the bit- temess of poor quality lingers long after the sweet- ness of low price has faded.” The following tools are required to perform. ally any repair job. Each tool is described and the recommended size given for stating a tool collee- tion. Additional tools and some duplicates may be added as you become familiar with the vehicle. Harley-Davidson motorcycles are built with Ameri- ccan standard fasteners—so if you are starting your collection now, buy American sizes. Screwdrivers ‘The screwdriver is a very basic tool, but if used improperly it will do more damage than good. The slot on a screw has a definite dimension and shape. ‘A screwdriver must be selected to conform with that shape. Use a small screwdriver for small screws and a large one for large screws or the screw head will be damaged. ‘Two basic types of screwdrivers are required: common (flat-blade) screwdrivers (Figure 12) and Phillips screwdrivers (Figure 13). Screwdrivers are available in sets which often include an assortment of common and Phillips blades. Ifyou buy them individually, buy at least the following: a. Common screwdriver—5/16 x 6 in. blade. b. Common screwdriver—3/8 x 12 in, blade. «Phillips screwdriver—size 2 tp, 6 in, blade. Use screwdrivers only for driving screws, Never ase a serewdriver for prying or chiseling metal, Do nottry to remove a Philips or Allen head serew with a common screweriver (unless the screw has acom- bination head that will accept either type); you can damage the head so that the proper tol will be unable to remove it Keep screwdrivers in the proper condition and they willlastlonger and perform better. Alwayskeep the tip ofa common serewdriver in good condition. Figure 14 shows how to grind the tip to the proper shape ift becomes damaged. Note the symmetrical sides ofthe tip0 Pliers Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes. Pliers are useful for cutting, bending and crimping. They should never be used to cut hardened objects or tur bolts or nuts, Figure 15 shows several pliers useful in motorcycle repairs Each type of pliers has a specialized function. Gas pliers are general purpose pliers and are used mainly for holding things and for bending. Vise-grips are used as pliers or to hold objects very tightly like a vise. Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend small objects. Channel-lock pliers can be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects; the jaws remain paral- Tel to grip around objects such as pipe or tubing, ‘There are many more types of pliers. Box-end and Open-end Wrenches Box-end and open-end wrenches are available in sets or separately in a variety of sizes. The size ‘number stamped near the end refers to the distance ‘between 2 parallel flats on the hex head bolt or nut CHAPTER ONE Box-end wrenches (Figure 16) are usually supe- rior to open-end wrenches (Figure 17). Open-end wrenches grip the nut on only 2 flats. Unless a \wrench fits wel, it my slip and round off the points on the nut. The box-end wrench grips onal 6 fas Both 6-point and 12-point openings on box-end FRONT swe CORRECT WAY TO GRIND BLADE ‘TAPER TOO ‘STEEPGENERAL INFORMATION un wrenches are available. The 6-point gives superior holding power; the 12-point allows a shorter swing. Combination wrenches which are open on one side and boxed on the other are also available. Both ends are the same size. Adjustable Wrenches An adjustable wrench can be adjusted to fit a variety of nuts or bolt heads (Figure 18). However, itcan loosen and slip, causing damage to the nut and injury to your knuckles. Use an adjustable wrench only when other wrenches are not available. Adjustable wrenches come in sizes ranging from 4-18 in. overall, AG or 8 in, wrench is recommended a an all-purpose wrench. Socket Wrenches ‘This type is undoubtedly the fastest, safest and ‘most convenient to use. Sockets which attach to a ratchet handle (Figure 19) are available with 6-point ‘or 12-point openings and 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 inch drives. The drive size indicates the size of the square hole which mates with the ratchet handle. ‘Torque Wrench torque wrench (Figure 20) is used witha socket tomeasure how tightly anutorboltis installed. They ‘come in a wide price range and with either 3/8 or 1/2 square drive, The drive size indicates the size of the square drive which mates with the socket, Purchase ‘one that measures 0-150 fb. (0-207 Nem),2 Impact Driver ‘This tool makes removal of tight fasteners easy and eliminates damage to bolts and screw slots. Impact drivers and interchangeable bits (Figure 21) are available at most large hardware and motorcycle dealers. Sockets can also be used with # hand impact driver, However, make sure the socket is designed for impact use. Do not use regular hand type sockets as they may shatter. Hammers ‘The correct hammer is necessary for repairs. Use only a hammer with a face (or head) of rubber or plastic or the sof-faced type tha is filled with buck- shot. These are sometimes necessary in engine tear- downs. Never use a metal-faced hammer as severe damage will result in most cases. You can always produce the same amount of force with a sof-faced hammer. Feeler Gauge ‘This toot has both flat and wire measuring gauges and is used to measure spark plug gap. See Figure 22, Wire gauges are used to measure spark plug g: flat gauges are used for all other measurements Vernier Caliper This tool is invaluable when reading inside, out- side and depth measurements to close precision. The vernier caliper can be purchased from large dealers ‘or mail order houses. See Figure 23. Special Tools A few special tools may be required for major service. These are described inthe appropriate chap- ters and are available either from Harley-Davidson dealers or other manufacturers as indicated. TEST EQUIPMENT Voltmeter, Ammeter and Ohmmeter ‘A good voltmeter is required for testing ignition and other electrical systems. Voltmeters are avail- CHAPTER ONE. able with analog meter scales or digital readouts. An instrument covering 0-20 volts is satisfactory. It should also have a 0-2 volt scale for testing points or individual contacts where voltage drops are much smaller. Accuracy should be +1/2 volt. An ohmmeter measures electrical resistance. This instrument is useful in checking continuity (for open and shor circuits) and testing lights. A self-powered 12-volt test light can often be used in its place. ‘The ammeter measures electrical current. These are useful for checking battery starting and charging currents.GENERAL INFORMATION B Some manufacturers combine the 3 instruments into one unit called a multimeter or VOM. See Figure 24, Compression Gauge Aneengine with low compression cannot be prop- erly tuned and will not develop full power. A com- pression gauge measures the amount of pressure present in the engine's combustion chambers during the compression stroke. This indicates general en- ‘gine condition. ‘The easiest type to use has screw-in adaptors that, fit into the spark plug holes (Figure 25). Press-in rubber-tipped types (Figure 26) are also available. Dial Indi tor Dial indicators (Figure 27) are precision tools used to check dimension variations on machined parts such as transmission shafts and axles and 10 ‘check crankshaft and axle shaft end play. Dial in cators are available with various dial types for dif ferent measuring requirements Strobe Timing Light ‘This instrument is necessary for checking ignition timing. By flashing a light at the precise instant the spark plug fires, the position of the timing mark can be seen, The flashing light makes a moving mark appear to stand still opposite a stationary mark. Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon bulb types to powerful xenon strobe lights. See Figure 28. Aight with an inductive pickup is recommended to-liminate any possible damage to ignition wiring. Portable Tachometer A portable tachometer is necessary for tuning. See Figure 29. Ignition timing and carburetor adjust~ ‘ments must be performed atthe specified idle speed. ‘The best instrument for this purpose is one with & low range of 0-1,000 or 0-2,000 rpm and a high range of 0-4,000 rpm. Extended range (0-6,000 or 0-8,000 rpm) instruments lack accuracy at lower speeds. The instrument should be capable of detect- ‘ng changes of 25 rpm on the low range.4 CHAPTER ONE Expendable Supplies Certain expendable supplies are also required. ‘These include grease, ol, gasket cement, shop rags ‘and cleaning solvent. Ask your dealer forthe special locking compounds, silicone lubricants and lube products which make vehicle maintenance simpler and easier. Cleaning solvent is available at some service stations MECHANIC'S TIPS Removing Frozen Nuts and Screws ‘When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed, several methods may be used to loosen it. First, apply penetrating oil such as Liguid Wrench ot WD-40 (available at hardware or auto supply stores). Apply it liberally and let it penetrate for 10-15 minutes. Rap the fastener several times with a small hammer, do not hit it hard enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrating oil if necessary For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as de- scribed, then insert a screwdriver in the slot and rap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer. This loosens the rust so the screw can be removed in the normal way. If the screw head is too chewed up to use this method, grip the head with Vise-grips pliers and twist the screw out. ‘Avoid applying heat unless specifically instructed as it may melt, Warp or remove the temper from paris. Remedying Stripped Threads Occasionally, threads are stripped through care- lessness or impact damage. Often the threads can be cleaned up by running a tap (for internal threads on ruts) or die (for external threads on bolts) through the threads, See Figure 30. To clean or repair spark plug threads, a spark plug tap can be used (Figure 30), Removing Broken Screws or Bolts ‘When the head breaks off a screw or bolt, several methods are avsilable for removing the remaining portion. Ifa large portion of the remainder projects out, try ripping it with Vise-grips. Ifthe projecting portionGENERAL INFORMATION 15 is too small, file it to fit a wrench or cut a slot in it maining portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small to fita screwdriver. See Figure 32. hhole inthe screw and tap the extractor into the hole, If the head breaks off flush, use a screw extractor. Back the screw out with a wrench on the extractor, ‘To do this, centerpunch the exact center of the re- See Figure 33. Filed [ ‘Center punch Dritt hole ‘Tap extractor Remove Into hole ‘serew ‘Tables 1-5 are on the following pages.16 CHAPTER ONE. Table 1 GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS Wheelbase 11968-1969 60.00 in. (182-4 om) 1970-2arly 1978 FLIFLH 61.00 in, (184.9 om) Fx 63.00 in, (160 em) Fxs 63.50 in, (164.3 em) Late 1978-1984 FLHIFLHS 64.12 in (155.2 em) FXBIFXSBIFXS. 63.50 in, (161.3 om) FXEFXEF 163.00 in, (160 em) FXWG. 15.00 in, (165.1 em) ‘Overall length "1966-1969 92.0 in (233.7 em) 1870early 1978 FLIFLH £89.00 In (226.1 em) FROFXS, £82.00 n. (289.7 em) Late 1978-1988 FLHIFLHS. 192.88 in. (295.9 em) FXBIFXSBIFXS {92.00 in. (298.7 em) FXEFXEF £91.50 in. (292.4 em) FW, 88.00 in. (296.2 em) Overall width 1966-1969 35,00 in, (68.9 em) 1970-early 1978 FLFLH 38.00 in. (99.1 em) x 34.00 in. (86.4 em) XS 28.00 in. (73.7 em) Late 1978-1984 LH 42.50 in (107.9 em) FLUSIFXEFXEF £38.75 in. (85.7 em) FXBIFXSBIFXS 28,00 in. (73.7 em) Fw 27.50'in (68.8 6m) Overall height "1966-1969 : 1970-early 1978 FLIFLH 43.50 in (110.5 om) FX 45.75 in. (118.2 6m) Fxs. {41.78 in. (106 6m) Late 1978-1986 FLA 168.25 in. (160.8 em) FLAS 48.12 in. (122.2 em) FXBIFXSBIFXS 4175 in. (106 om) FXEIFXEF 45.75 In. (118.2 cm) FXWG: 47.00 in. (194 cm) Vehicle weight 1966-carly 1978 ° Lote 1978-1984 FLH 722 Ibs. (927.5 kg) FLHS 625 Ibs. (283.9 kg) x 572 Ibs, (259.4 kg) Horsepower 1965-1969 FL 57.0 hp @ 5,200 rpm. FLW 166.0 hp @ 5,600 rpm 1970-carly 1978 FL 57.0hp @ 5.200 rpm. FLH 62.0 np @ 5.400 rpm Late 1978-1904 1200 c¢ {60.0 hp @ 5,200 rpm (continued)GENERAL INFORMATION Table 1 GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS (continued) Late 1978-1984 (continued) 11840 ce (1878-1960), 60.0 np @ 4,600 rpm 1840 ce (1981-1988) 65.0 p @ 5,400 rpm Fuel tank capacity 1966-1969, Total 8.8 0f 5.0 gal. (19.2 oF 18.9L, 2.91 or 4.16 imp. gal) Reserve Vor 1.2 gal. (8.78 or 454 L, 6.83 or 1.0 imp. gal.) 1970-0arly 1978 FLLH Total 8.5 0F 8.0 gal. (19.2 or 18.9L, 2.91 or 4.16 imp. gal Resorve Vor 1.2 gal. (8.78 or 454 L, 6.83 or 1.0 imp. gal.) FRIPXE, 1973-1974 Total 36 gal. (13.6 L, 2.99 imp. gal) Reserve 0.7 gal. (265 L, 0.58 imp. gal) 1975-0arly 1978 FXUFXE Total (19.6 L, 2.99 imp. gal Reserve I (2.27 L, 0.49 imp. gal.) XS Total . (18.2.1, 2.81 imp. gal) Reserve (78 L, 0.83 imp. gal) te 1978-1984 FLHFLHSIFXWG, Total 5.0 gal. (18. L, 4.16 imp. gal) Reserve 4.2 gal. (454 L, 1.0 imp. gal) FE Total 3.2 gal (12.1 L, 2.66 imp. gal) Reserve (227 L, 05 imp. gal) FXSIFXEFIFXBIFXSB Totat (13.21, 291 imp. gal) Reserve imp. gal) * Not epecitied Table 2 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS Decimat Metric Decimal Metric Fractions 3 mm’ Fractions in. mm’ 168 0.015625 0.30688 2132 026125 714575 32 0.03125 079375 19164 0.296875 754062 3164 0.046875 1.19062 516 03125 7.83750 ane 0.0625 1158750 21164 0.326125 833437 5164 o.7e125 1196437 w32 034375, 8.73125 3132 0.09375 238125 23164 0.358375, 9.1280 7184 0.109375 277812 38. 0375 9.52500 18 0.125 3.1750 25164 0.300625, 9.92187 916s 0.140625 357187 13932 0.40625 1031875 8132 0.15625 3.96875, 27164 0.421875 so.71862 11184 ox71875 4.36562 76 0.4375 ¥1.11280 ane 0.1875 76250 20164 0.453125 11150937 1364 0.2039125 5.15997 1592 0.48875 1180825 7192 021875 5.556 31164 0.454375 1230312 1864 0.234375 5.95512 42 0.500 1270000, 14 0.250 6.35000 33164 0.515625, 13,09687 17164 0.265625, 6.74657 | ane 0.53125, 13.4957, (continued)18 CHAPTER ONE ‘Table 2 DECIMAL AND METRIC EQUIVALENTS (continued) Decimal Metric ‘Decimal Metric Fractions in. mm Fractions in. wm 568 0.586875, a9062 25182 O76125 T8BAa7S ane 0.5625 1428750 51164 0.796875, 2024062 37164 osre12s 1458897 1316 08125 2089750, 1932 0.50375 15.08125 53164 826125 2103897 30164 0.609375, s8.47812 21132 o.8ss75 2iat2s 58 0.625 1887500 5564 0.859375 2i.82612 464 0.640625 1627187 78 057s 22.2250 2192 0.65625 16.6875, 57168 0.300825, 2.62187 4364 osria75 17.0856 2032 0.90625 2.01875 m6 0.6875 17146250, 50164 0.921875 23.41562 45164 0.703125 y7.asea7 1516 0.9375 2.81250, 23/92 o71875 16.25625, | eres 0.953125, 2420057 47164 0.734375 re.65512 3032 0.96875 2460625, 34 0.750 49.0500, eae 0.984375, 2.00312 49164 0.765625 19.4687 ied 1.00 2.40000 Table 3 GENERAL TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS (FT-LB.)* ‘Body Size or Outside Diameter Tweet 14 sit6 ae 7THG e878 A 2 a es ee a 00 fs e200 910 hh me AR ey eri rn et) = nin (000) 70) = 000 OA 08 200 tral rn 100) 123011 19008000) 700) = Convert ft-lb. specification to Nem by multiplying by 1.28. ‘Fastener strength of SAE bolts can be determined by the bolt head “grade markings.” Unmarked bolt heads and cap sorews are usually o be mild steel. More “grade markings” indicate higher fastener quality QODD SAE ‘SAES ‘SAET ‘SAE Table 4 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER CHAR’ Vinnumber, 3G 62152 «HO Model code ‘Sequential number Manufacturer code Model year ‘MODEL CODE: ‘SEQUENTIAL NUMBEI MODEL YEAR: 1A FL-1200 10000 and up: 1970 10 Dec. 31, 1977 1970" 2A FLH-1200 GH FLO 60000 and up: Jan. 1, 1976 through 1980 1 1971 6 1976 7E FLHS-1200 7H FLH-1200Police AIICLE numbers start at 80000 and up 2 1972 7 1977 3G FLH-60 8H FLH-1200 Shrine 31973 8 1978 9H FLH-O0 Police MANUFACTURER CODE: 41974 9 1979 4K FLH-O0 Shrine H: 1970-1979 5 ° SH FLHS80 2H CLE 1980 * SAMPLE VIN NUMBER: 1979 FLH-20 (3G 62152 H9)Table 5 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER CHART.-1981-1984 rr) ‘VIN number: 1 HDT AA K 1" E Y 110000 ‘Country of origin ————_______! Harley-Davidson, HD code ‘Model code: Engine displacement. Introduction date Factory check number Model year ‘Assembly plant ‘Sequential number. HD CODE ENGINE DISPLACEMENT INTRODUCTION DATE Heavyweight motorcycle K: 80¢u. In 1: Regular introduction date 2: Mid-year introduction 3: Special-Early 1964 models MODEL CODE ‘AA FLH-80 ‘AB FLH-Polloe-Std, ‘AC FLH-Shrine-Chain MODEL YEAR FACTORY CHECK NUMBER [AD FLH Classic B: 1981 Can be 0-9 oF X [AG FLH Classic with sidecar c: 1982 ‘AH FLH-Police-Dix. D: 1969 ‘AJ FLH-80 Heritage E: 1964 ‘SAMPLE VIN NUMBER ON ‘AK FLHS-80 * STEERING HEAt ‘AL FLH-Shrine-Bolt 1 HD 1AAKt 1 EYtt0000 ‘SA Sidecar not used with Classe ‘8D Sidecar sold with Classic SSE Sidecar sold separately for use with ClassleCHAPTER TWO TROUBLESHOOTING Every motorcycle engine requires an uninter- rupted supply of fuel and air, proper ignition and adequate compression. If any of these are lacking, the engine will not ran, Diagnosing mechanical problems is relatively simple if you use orderly procedures and keep a few basic principles in mind, The troubleshooting procedures in this chapter analyze typical symptoms and show logical methods of isolating causes. These are not the only methods. ‘There may be several ways to solve a problem, but only a systematic approach can guarantee success. Never assume anything. Do not overlook the ob- vious. Ifyou are riding along and the bike suddenly quits, check the easiest, most accessible problem spots first. Ts there gasoline inthe tank? His a spark plug wire fallen off? If nothing obvious turns up in a quick check, look alittle further. Learning to recognize and describe symptoms will make repairs easier for you or a mechanic at the shop. Describe problems accurately ‘and fully, Saying that “it won't run” isn’t the same ‘thing as saying “it quitathigh speed and won'tstart,” os, “it sat in my garage for 3 months and then wouldn't start.” Gather as many symptoms as possible to aid in diagnosis, Note whether the engine lost power ‘gradually or all at once. Remember that the more complicated a machine is, the easier itis to trou- bleshoot because symptoms point to specific prob- lems. After the symptoms are defined, areas. which could cause problems are tested and analyzed. Guessing at the cause of a problem may provide the solution, but it can easily lead to frustration, wasted time and a series of expensive, unnecessary parts replacements. ‘You do not need fancy equipment or complicated test gear to determine whether repairs can be al- tempted at home. A few simple checks could save a large repair bill and lost time while the bike sits in a dealer's service department. On the other hand, be realistic and do not attempt repairs beyond your abilities. Service departments tend to charge heavily for putting together a disassembled engine that may have been abused, Some won’t even take on such a Jjob—so use common sense and don’t get in over ‘your head. OPERATING REQUIREMENTS: Anengine needs 3 basies to run properly: correct fuel/air mixture, compression and a spark at the correct time. If one or more are missing, the engine will notrun, Four-stroke engine operating principles are described in Chapter Four under Engine Princ‘TROUBLESHOOTING a ples. The electrical system isthe weakest link ofthe 3 basics. More problems result from electrical break ‘downs than from any other source. Keep that in mind before you begin tampering with carburetor adjust- ‘ments and the like, Ifthe machine has been sitting for any length of time and refuses to start, check and clean the spark plugs and then look to the gasoline delivery system. ‘This includes the fuel tank, fuel shutoff valve and fuel line to the carburetor. Gasoline deposits may have formed and gummed up the carburetor jets and air passages. Gasoline tends to lose its potency after standing for long periods. Condensation may con- taminate the fuel with water. Drain the old fuel (fuel tank, fuel lines and carburetor) and try stating with a fresh tankful TROUBLESHOOTING INSTRUMENTS Chapter One ists the instruments needed and gives instruction on their use EMERGENCY TROUBL :SHOOTING When the bike is difficult to start, or won't start at all, it doesn’t help to wear down the battery using the starter or your leg and foot on kickstart models. FUEL VALVE Fuel tank PNY sasatine strainer Nut Handle Clamp > Fuel hose Check for obvious problems even before getting out your tools, Go down the following list step by step, Do each one; you may be embarrassed to find the Killswitch off, but that is better than wearing down the battery If the bike still will not start, refer to the appropriate troubleshooting procedures which fol- Tow in this chapter, 1. Is there fuel in the tank? Open the filler cap and rock the bike. Listen for fuel sloshing around. WARNING Donotuse an open flame to check in the tank. A serious explosion is certain to result. 2. Is the fuel supply valve in the ON position? Turn the valve to the reserve position to be sure you get the last remaining gas. See Figure 1. 3, Make sure the kill switch is not stuck in the OFF position or that the wire is not broken and shorting. out 4, Are the spark plug wires on tight? Push both spark plug wires on and slightly rotate them to clean the electrical connection between the plug and the spark plug wire connector. 5. Is the choke in the right position?” ENGINE. STARTING Anengine that refuses to start or is difficult to start, is very frustrating, More often than not, the problem, is very minor and can be found with a simple and logical troubleshooting approach. ‘The following items will help isolate engine start- ing problems. Engine Fails to Start Perform the following spark test 10 determine if the ignition system is operating properly. 1. Remove one of the spark plugs. 2. Connect the spark plug wire and connector to the spark plug and touch the spark plug base to 8 good. ‘ground like the engine cylinder head. Position the spark plug so you can see the electrodes. WARNING During the next step, do not hold the spark plug, wire or connector with fine gers or a serious electrical shock may result. If necessary, use a pair of ins2 lated pliers to hold the spark plug or wire. The high voltage generated by the ignition system could produce serious or fatal shocks. 3, Crank the engine over with the starter. A fat blue spark should be evident across the spark plug elec- trodes. 4, IF the spatk is good, check for one or more of the following possible malfunctions: a. Obstructed fuel line or fuel filter ». Leaking head gasket(s). ©. Low compression. 5. IF the spark is not good, check for one or more of the following: «a. Loose electrical connections. b. Dirty electrical connections. ¢, Loose or broken ignition coil ground wire. 4, Broken or shorted high tension lead to the spark plug. «, Discharged battery. £. Disconnected or damaged battery connection. £8. Breaker points oxidized (1966-early 1978). Engine is Difficult to Start Check for one or more of the following possible ‘malfunctions: «a. Fouled spark plug(s) ’ Improperly adjusted choke. Intake manifold air leak. . Contaminated fuel system. ce. Improperly adjusted carburetor f. Weak ignition uni ¢, Weak ignition coil(s). 1, Poor compression, i, Timing advance weight sticking in advanced position (1966-1979 models only). J. Engine and transmission oil too heavy. Engine Will Not Crank Check for one or more of the following possible malfunctions: 1, Blown fuse or damaged circuit breaker. », Discharged battery. ¢. Defective starter motor. 4. Seized piston(s). e. Seized crankshaft bearings. £. Broken connecting rod, CHAPTER TWO ENGINE PERFORMANCI In the following checklist, it is assumed that the engine runs, but is not operating at peak perform- ance. This will serve as a starting point from which {o isolate a performance malfunction, The possible causes for each malfunction are listed in a logical sequence and in order of prob- ability. Engine Will Not Idle 4, Carburetor incorrectly adjusted, », Fouled or improperly gapped spark plug(s). c. Leaking head gasket(s). 4, Obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve. ce. Obstructed ful filter £. Ignition timing incorrect due to defective igni- tion component(s) 2, Pushrod clearance incorrect. Engine Misses at High Speed 1. Fouled or improperly gapped spark plugs. b. Lmproper carburetor main jet selection. ¢. Ignition timing incorrect due to defective igni- tion component(s) 4. Weak ignition coil(s). «. Obstructed fuel line or fuel shutoff valve, £ Obstructed fuel filter, ‘2. Clogged carburetor jets. Engine Overheating a Incorrect carburetor adjustment or jet selec- tion, ». Ignition timing retarded due to improper ad- Jjustment or defective ignition component(s). c. 1966-1979: Low power—circuit breaker cam sticking in retarded position, 4. Improper spark plug heat range. €. Damaged or blocked cooling fins. £.Oil level low. , Oil not circulating properly. h, Valves leaking, i. Heavy engine carbon depositsTROUBLESHOOTING ‘Smoky Exhaust and Engine Runs Roughly a. Clogged air filter element +. Carburetor adjustment incorrect—mixture too rich, ‘c. Choke not operating correctly, <4. Water or other contaminants in fuel. . Clogged fuel line, £. Spark plugs fouled g- Ignition coil defective. h. Breaker point models: Points worn, dirty or out of adjustment. Loose condenser connections. Defective condenser, i, Electronic ignition models: Ignition module or sensor defective. 4 Loose or defective ignition circuit wire. k. Short circuit from damaged wire insulation. 1. Loose battery cable connection, ‘m. Cam timing incorrect. 1, Intake manifold or air cleaner air leak. Engine Loses Power at Normal Riding Speed a. Carburetor incorrectly adjusted, b. Engine overheating, . Ignition timing incorrect due to defective igni- tion component(s). Circuit breaker carn stick- ing on 1966-1979 models, 4. Incorrectly gapped spark plugs. ©, Obstructed muffler. £. Dragging brakes(s). Engine Lacks Acceleration 2. Carburetor mixture to0 lean, ’, Clogged fuel line. ©. Ignition timing incorrect due to faulty ignition ‘component(s). 4. Dragging brakes(s). ENGINE. NOISES Often the first evidence of an internal engine problem is a strange noise. That knocking, clicking or tapping sound which you never heard before may ‘be warning you of impending trouble. B ‘While engine noises can indicate problems, they aredifficutio interpret corectiy inexperienced me- chanics ean be seriously misled by them. Professional mechanics often usea special stetho- scope (which looks like a doctor's stethoscope) for isolating engine noises. You ean do nearly as well with a “Sounding stick” which can be an ordinary piece of doweling, a length of broom handle or a section of small hose. By placing one end in contact with the area to which you want to listen and the other end near your ear, you can hear sounds ema~ natin from that area. The frsttime you do ths, you ‘may be homified at the strange sounds coming from ‘even a normal engine. If possible, have an experi- enced friend or mechanic help you sort out the noises. Consider the following when troubleshooting en- sine noises: 1. Knocking or pinging during acceleration— Caused by using a lower octane fuel than recom- mended. May also be caused by poor fuel Pinging can also be caused by a spark plug of the wrong heat range. Refer to Correct Spark Plug Heat Range in Chapter Three. 2, Slapping or rattling noises at low speed or during ‘acceleration—May be caused by piston slap, Le, ‘excessive piston-cylinder wall clearance. 3. Knocking or rapping while decelerating—Usu- ally caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. 4. Persistent knocking and vibration—Usually caused by worn main bearing) 5. Rapid on-off squeal—Compression leak around cylinder head gaskets) or spark plugs. 6. Valve train noise—Check for the following: a. Bent pushrod). ». Hydraulic tappets adjusted incorrectly. ¢, Defective hydraulic tappets 4. Valve sticking in guide. ¢, Worn cam gears andor cam. £ Low oil pressure—probably caused by ob- structed oil screen. Also check oil feed pump ‘operation. £8 Damaged rocker armor shat. Rocker arm may be binding on shaft. ENGINE. LUBRICATION A 00 low oil tank level or a plugged or damaged lubricating system will quickly lead to engine dam- age. The engine oil tank should be checked weekly4 and the tank refilled, as described in Chapter Three. il pump service is covered in Chapter Four. Oil Light ‘The oil light should come on when the ignition switch is tured to ON before starting the engine. After the engine is started, the ol light should go off When the engine is above idle. [If the oil light does not come on when the ignition is tumed to ON and the engine is not running, check for a bumed out oil light bulb. Ifthe bulb is okay, ccheck the oil pressure switch, Ifthe oil light remains on when the engine speed is above idle, tum the engine off and check the oil level in the oil tank. IF the oil level is satisfactory, check the following: Check fora plugged tappet screen. Remove and service the screen as described in Chapter ‘Three. », Oil may not be returning to the tank from the return line. Check for a clogged or damaged return line or a damaged oil pump. If you are operating your Harley in conditions ‘where the ambient temperature is below freez~ ing, ice and sludge may be blocking the oil {eed pipe. Oil cannot flow to the engine and engine damage will result, NOTE Because water is formed during com- bustion, itecan collect in the engine ifthe engine isnot run hard enough o vapor- ize the water; a condition inherent with winter riding conditions. Water buildup will form sludge deposits as it mixes with the oil. Sludge is a thick, creamy substance that will clog oil feed and return systems (oil filter, appet screen, lines, etc.). Sludge will accelerate en- ‘gine wear and result in engine failure. In addition, when the ambient tempera- ture falls below freezing, water in the tank and oil lines will freeze, thus pre- venting proper oil circulation and lubri- cation. To prevent engine damage from sludge buildup, note the following: 1, When operating your Harley in cold/freezing weather, note how long you actually run the en- gine—the engine is colder in winter months and will take longer to warm up. Run the engine for longer CHAPTER TWO periods so that it can reach maximum operating temperature, The water will then vaporize and be blown out through the engine breather. 2. Change the engine oil more frequently. The oil change intervals specified in Chapter Three should bbe reduced when you are operating your Harley during cold weather. This step can interrupt sludge accumulation and prevent engine damage. 3. Flush the oil tank at each oil change. Refer to ‘Chapter Three for oil change and tank flushing pro- cedures. (Oil Consumption High or Engine Smokes Excessively (Check engine compression and perform acylinder leakage test as described in Chapter Three. Causes ‘can be one oF more of the following: a, Wom valve guides. b, Wom valve guide seals. cc. Wor or damaged piston rings. 4. Breather valve damaged or timed incorrectly. e. Restricted oil tank return line. £. Oil tank overfilled. g, Restricted oil filter. h, Leaking cylinder head surfaces. i. Insufficient primary chain case vacuum on dry clutch models only (early 1984). Perform the Primary Housing Vacuum Check (Early 1984 With Dry Clutch) as. described in Chapter Five, Oil Fails to Return to Oil Tank 4. Oil lines or fittings restricted or damaged. ». Oil pump damaged or operating incorrectly. c. Empty oil tank. . Restricted oil filter. Excessive Engine Oil Leaks ‘a. Clogged air cleaner breather hose. b, Restricted or damaged oil return line to ot tank, c. Loose engine parts. 4, Damaged gasket sealing surfaces. ¢. Restricted air cleaner breather hose. £.Oil tank overfilled.‘TROUBLESHOOTING CLUTCH ‘The three basie clutch troubles are: a. Clutch noise, b. Clutch slipping. c. Improper clutch disengagement or dragging Al clutch troubles, except adjustments, require partial clutch disassembly to identify and cure the problem. The troubleshooting chart in Figure 2 lists Clutch troubles and checks to make. Refer to Chapter Five for clutch service procedures. ‘TRANSMISSION The basic transmission troubles are: a. Excessive gear noise. b. Difficult shifting. ©. Gears pop out of mesh, 4. Incorrect shift lever operation, ‘Transmission symptoms are sometimes hard to distinguish from clutch symptoms, The trou- bleshooting chart in Figure 3 lists transmission trou- bles and checks to make. Refer to Chapter Five for transmission service procedures. Be sure that the clutch is not causing the trouble before working on the transmission, 25 CHARGING SYSTEM (Charging system testing procedures are described in Chapter Seven, STARTING SYSTEM ‘The basic starterrelated troubles are: ‘a. The starter does not crank. b. The starter cranks, but the engine does not start, Testing Starting system problems are relatively easy to find, In most cases, the trouble is a loose or dirty electrical connection, Use the troubleshooting chart in Figure 4 with the following tests. Starter does not crank 1. Tum on the headlight and push the starter button, Check for one of the following conditions 2. Starter does not crank and headlight does not come on: The battery is dead or there is a loose battery connection. Check the battery charge as de~ scribed in Chapter Three. Ifthe battery is okay, check @ CLUTCH TROUBLESHOOTING Clutch sipping ‘Check: * Incorrect clutch adjustment * Weak clutch springs * Worn clutch plates * Damaged pressure plates ‘cluteh dragging Check: “Incorrect clutch adjustment {Clutch spring tension too tight + Warped clutch discs * Worn or damaged clutch shell keys or hub Excessive clutch noise ‘Cheek: * Damaged clutch gear teeth * Loase clutch hub frietion dises * Worn or warped clutch plates:26 the starter connections at the battery, solenoid and at the starter switch. 3. Headlight comes on, but goes out when the starter ‘jutton is pushed: There may be a bad connection at the battery, Wiggle the battery terminals and re- cheek. Ifthe starter starts cranking, you've Found the problem, Remove and clean the battery terminal clamps. Clean the battery posts also. Reinstall the terminal clamps and tighien securely, 4. Headlight comes on, but dims slightly when the Starter button is pushed: The problem is probably in CHAPTER TWO the starter. Remove and test the starter as described in Chapter Seven. 5. Headlight comes on, but dims severely when the starter button is pushed: Either the battery is nearly dead or the starter or engine is partially seized. Check the battery as described in Chapter Three. Cheek the starter as described in Chapter Seven before checking for partial engine seizure. 6. Headlight comes on and stays bright when the starter button is pushed: The problems in the starter button-to-solenoid wiring or in the starter itself. Check the starter switch, kill switch, starterrelay and ® TRANSMISSION TROUBLESHOOTING Excessive gear noise Check: * Worn gesrings * Wom or damaged gears + Excessive gear backlash Difficult sitting ‘Cheek: * Damaged gears * Damaged shift forks * Damaged sift drum + Damaged shift lever assembly + Incorrect main shaft and countershaft engagement * Incorrect clutch disengagement Gears pop out of mesh ‘Check: * Worn gear or transmission shaft splines * Shift forks worn or bent * Worn dog holes in gears + Insufficient shift lever spring tensioner * Damaged shift lever linkage Incorrect shit lever operation Check: * Bent shift lever + Bent or damaged shift lever shaft * Damaged shift lever linkage or gears Incorrect shitting after engine reas ‘sembly heck: * Missing transmission shatt shims. * Incorrectly installed parts * Shift forks bent during reassembly * Incorrectly assembled transmission * Incorrect clutch adjustment * Incorrectly assembled shit linkage assembly‘TROUBLESHOOTING 2” the solenoid switch. Check each switch by bypass- ing it with a jumper wire. Check the starter as de- scribed in Chapter Seven, Starter spins but engine does not crank If the starter spins at normal or high speed but the engine fails to crank, the problem is in the starter drive mechanism, NOTE Depending upon battery condition, the battery will eventually run down as the starter button is continually pressed. ‘Remember that ifthe starter cranks nor- ‘mally, but the engine fails to start, the starter is working property. It's time to start checking other engine systems. Don't wear the battery down, ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS If bulbs bum out frequently, the cause may be excessive vibration, loose connections that permit sudden current surges or the installation of the wrong type of bulb. ‘Most light and ignition problems are caused by loose or corroded ground connections. Check these prior to replacing a bulb or electrical component. IGNITION SYSTEM ‘The ignition system may be either a breaker point ‘or breakerless type. See Chapter Seven. Most prob- lems involving failure to start, poor driveability or rough running are caused by trouble in the ignition system, particularly in breaker point systems. Note the following symptoms: ‘a. Engine misses, ». Stumbles on acceleration (misfiring). . Loss of power at high speed (misfiring) dd. Hard starting (oF failure to start) €. Rough idle, Most of the symptoms can also be caused by a carburetor that is worn or improperly adjusted. But considering the law of averages, the odds are far better that the source of the problem will be found in the ignition system rather than the fuel system, BREAKER POINT IGNITION ‘TROUBLESHOOTING The following basic tests are designed to pinpoint and isolate quickly problems in the primary circuit, of a breaker point ignition. Before starting, make sure that the battery is in good condition, See Chap- ter Three, Ifthe primary circuit checks out satisfac- © Symptom ‘Starter does not work Defect STARTER TROUBLESHOOTING Probable Caus Low battery Wom brushes Defective relay Defective ewiteh wiring connection Internal short eicuit ‘component Starter action is weak Low battery Recharge battery Pitted relay contacts Clean or replace Worn brushes. Replace brushes Detective connection Clean and tighten ‘Shor clrcult in commutator Replace armature Starter runs continuously ‘stuck relay Replace relay Starter tums; does not turn engine Defective starter drive Repair or replace ‘or replace Repair or rep Repair or replace detective28 totily, refer to Tune-up in Chapter Thee and check the circuit breaker, spark plug wires and spark plugs. NOTE Before starting, connecta voltmeter be- ‘nveen the battery terminals (positive to positive: negative t0 negative) and write down the reading. This is battery voltage. 1, Remove the circuit breaker point cover (Figure 5) 2. Rotate the engine until the points are closed (D, Figure 6), 3. Disconnect the high-voltage lead from one of the spark plugs. 4, Insert a metal adapter in the plug boot and hold it about 3/16 in, from a clean engine ground with insulated pliers (Figure 7). 5. Turn the ignition switch ON. 6. Open the points with an insulated tool made of ‘wood. A fat, blue-white spark should jump from the spark plug lead to the engine. Ifthe spark is good, the ignition system is good, but ignition timing may bee incorrect. Check as described in Chapter Three. If there isno spark, oriftis thin, yellowish, or weak, ‘continue with Step 7, 7. Tum the ignition switch OFF and close the points. 8. Connect the positive lead ofavolimeter to the wire ‘on the points (A, Figure 6) and the negative lead to ‘8 good ground. Tum the ignition switch ON. If the voltmeter indicates more than 0.125 volts, the points are defective, Replace them as described in Chapter ‘Three. ‘9. Open the points with the same tool used in Step 6. The voltmeter should indicate battery voltage. If ‘not, the following may be the problem: 1. Shorted points, b. Shorted condenser. ©. Open coil primary winding. Perform Steps 10-12 to isolate the problem. 10. With the ignition switch ON, disconnect the condenser and the wire from the points (A, Figure 6). Connect the voltmeter positive lead to the wire which was connected to the points. Connect the voltmeter negative lead to a good ground (bare met- al). The voltmeter should indicate battery voltage. If not, current is not reaching the points a Check the ignition primary circuit wiring for breaks or bad connections. Repair as needed and retest. CHAPTER TWO Spark plug wire and boot Spark plug