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IS 12675 (1989): Guide to garment quality [TXD 20: Made-up

Textiles]

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Satyanarayan Gangaram Pitroda
Invent a New India Using Knowledge

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 (Reaffirmed 2005)
hiian Standard ,

GUIDE TO GARMENT QUALITY

UDC 6871 : 658562 [ 026 ]

-\
@ BIS 1989
.. I
BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS t
MANAK BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR MARG
NEW DELHI 110002
i
December 1989 Price Group 3
Apparels ( Ready-Made Garments ) Sectional Committee, TDC 43

FOREWORD

This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards on 29 May 1989, after the
draft finalized by the Apparels ( Ready-Made Garments ) Sectional Committee had been approved
by the Textile Division Council.

In the manufacture of garments, a number of factors affect the quality of the ultimate product and
hence these must be given due importance.

A group of standards has been identified at each stage in production of garments which are rele-
vant to quality of materials and processes in use. The lists of standards are not exhaustive and
should be taken as a guide only.

In the formulation of this standard,_ assistance has been derived from BS 6476 : 1984 Guide to
Garment Quality and relevant British Standards, issued by the British Standards Jnstitution, UK.
 I8 12675:198!J
Indian Standard
GUIDETOGARMENTQUALITY
1 SCOPE 4.1.3 Grading, Pattern Cutting and Sample
Making
1.1This standard provides a list of factors
which guide at the various stages of garment Grading should be done in a logical sequence en-
manufacturing from design to packaging, to suring that the original design concept is maintain-
ensure final garment quality. ed. Patterns should be cut to ensure that garments
are produced in conformity with the established
2 REFERENCE size schedules. Reference samples should be
produced under conditions that are as close as
IS No. Title possible to the factory production methods.

IS 12110: 1987 Glossary of terms used in 4.2 Lay Planning

apparel industry
While lay planning, following factors should be
3 TERMINOLOGY taken care of:
a) Correct positioning of pattern pieces on
3.1 For the purpose of this standard, the defini- fabric grain;
tions given in IS 12110 : 1987 shall apply. b) Inclusion of all required pattern pieces;
4 STAGES OF PRODUCTION c> Matching of checks and stripes; _
4 Correct positioning of pattern pieces for
4.0 A garment has to pass through a number of pile fabrics or one side fabrics;
stages in its manufacturing process. These are:
e) No overlapping of pattern pieces;
a) &e-production, namely, designing, selec- f) Availability of sufficient space between
tion of materials, pattern making, sample parts for accurate cutting;
making, etc;
b) Lay planning;
d Correct identification of all pieces by size,
style, etc;
c) Laying-up and under-pressing; h) Accurate marking;
d) Make-up and under-pressing; 8 Inclusion and correct positioning of all
e) Final pressing; notches and drill marks; and
f) Final checking; k) Fully marking of parts within defined lay
g) Labelling; and width.
h) Packaging.
4.3 Laying-up, Cutting and Fusing
These stages are intended to be as comprehensive
as possible. However, individual processes or 4.3.1 Laying-up
systems are likely to vary from factory to factory. The fabrics should be laid tension-free, straight
and pattern matched. The procedures should be
4.1 Pre-production specified for dealing with the following, if neces-
sary:
4.1.1 General
a) One side materials,
The design of garments and the materials to be b) Material batch preparation,
used in the manufacture of garments should c) Fault marking and cutting out, and
ensure the fitness for purpose and relate to the
method of production. Materials and trimmings d) Correct positioning of notches and drill
selected for production of garments should be holes.
compatible with each other.
4.3.2 Cutting
4.1.2 Materials Inspection
Knife profile and cutting speeds should be chec-
The materials should be inspected for defects ked. Cleanliness and safety aspects should be
and variations, checked for conformity to the ensured during cutting.
related specification and properly labelled.
4.3.3 Fusing
4.1.2.1 List of Indian Standards on dress fabrics
Regular checks should be carried out for the
giving the manufacturing details and other
duration, temperature and pressure ratings of the
Eequirements are listed in Annex A.
fusing press at least twice every day. The press
4.1.2.2 List of Indian Standards relevant to settings can be monitored by bofld strength
material selection and other aspects of garments measurements on test samples byfusing at the
are given in Annex B. same time as garment parts. Fused parts should

1
IS 12675:1989

be checked when cool and before any subsequent e) Cleanliness;

operations, for colour and appearance changes
as well as shrinkage.
4.4 Make-up and Under-Pressing
The equipment, operations and materials which
require adequate attention for proper make-up
and pressing of garments are as given below:
a) Sewing machines, cleanliness and settings;
b) Needles size, type and condition;
c) Stitch density and thread tension;
d) Sewing thread material, count, colour and
shade;
e) Seam allowance; and
f) Under-pressing conditions.
4.4.1 The Indian Standards listed in Annex C
shall provide guidance on sewing and embroi-
dery threads, seams and stitches.
4.5 Final Pressing
Regular checks should be carried out at least
twice every day for functioning of press and
cleanliness of press covers. In case of final dry
heat pressing, checks mentioned in 4.3.3 should
be carried out twice every day. The garments
should be checked for the following defects
before as well as after all stages of pressing:
a) Unwanted creases/impressions/stainmarks,
and
b) Pressing glaze.
4.5.1 The garments after pressing should be dry
before subsequent operations; for example,
buttoning, bagging, etc.
4.6 Final Checking
The following aspects of garments should be
checked at this stage:
a) Correct dimensions;
b) f;;l~ pucker, seam allowance and sewing
, in each package, type of outer packing, etc,
c) Garment symmetry;
d) Pressing/fusing defects;
f) Loose threads;
g) Correct matching of fabrics and trimmings;
h) Shade variation;
j) Correct fitting and alignment of closures;
and
k) Correct placing of labels.
4.6.1 A reference sample and complete specifica-
tion of garment should be available at the ins-
pection point which should have proper lighting
conditions. As far as possible, all garments
should be checked. However, if 100 percent
inspection level is not possible, Indian Standards
listed in Annex D may be followed for choosing
the appropriate sampling plan.
4.7 Labelling
The garments should be properly labelled. The
size and details of labels should be as agreed to
between the buyer and the seller and as far as
possible, should indicate the following:
a) Fibre content;
b) After-care instructions;
c) Size designation;
d) Manufacturers name, initials or trade-
mark; and
e) Country of origin.
NOTE -In case of garments made from combi-
nation of fabrics, the fibre content shall be deter-
mined on the basis of predominent fabric(s).
Waddings used in the garments shall not be consi-
dered for declaring the fibre content.
4.7.1 The list of Indian Standards given in Annex
E shall be helpful in proper designing of labels.
4.8 Packaging
Garment packages should be so designed as to
ensure that the garments reach the consumer in
satisfactory condition. The details such as,
method of garment folding, number of garments
should be worked out in consultation with the
buyer. Standards listed in Annex F shall guide
in proper packaging of garments.

ANNEX A
( Chse 4.1.2.1 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON DRESS FABRICS

A-l COTTON, SYNTHETIC AND BLENDED

FABRICS-MILL-MADE
IS No. Title IS No. Xitle

IS 177 : 1977 Cotton drills ( third revision ) IS 187 : 1978 Cotton long cloth ( second
revision ) -
IS 178 : 1984 Cotton twill ( second revision ) Is 188 _ 1g80
yt;oy poplin ( second revi-
IS 182 : 1983 Mazri ( second revision )
IS 186 : 1983 Cotton mulls ( second revi- IS 1144 : 1980 Cotton Cellular shirting
sion ) ( second revision )

9
 IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 1423 : 1985 Cotton gaberdine ( second IS 1098 : 1957 Handloom cotton cambric,
revision ) bleached
IS 1544 : 1973 Cotton calico ( first revision ) IS 1100 : 1978 Handloom cotton crepe (first
revision )
IS 2422 : 1985 Dyed, cotton fabric, water IS llol . I981 Handloom cotton cellular
repellent, for capes and rain shirting ( first revision )
coats ( second revision )
IS 1241 : 1958 Handloom cotton calico, blea-
IS 7085 : 1986 Polyester blend suitings ched or dyed
( market varieties ) ( first revi- IS 1242 : 1975 Handloom cotton shirting
sion) ( first revision )
IS 7104 : 1973 Poplin ( market variety ) IS 1243 : 1981 Handloom cotton coating
IS7851:1975 Wash and wear requirements ( jirst revision )
of cotton fabrics IS 1244 : 1958 Handloom cotton longcloth,
IS 9517 : 1986 Polyester blend suiting bleached or dyed
( market varieties ) ( _first revi- IS 1245 : 19% Handloom
sion ) cloth, grey wi?iripes jama
Polyester blend suitings for Is 1247 : 1g87 Handloom cotton Madras
IS 11248 : 1985
uniforms check ( first revision )
Poyester blend shirting for Is 1451 1g7g Handloom cotton drills ( first
IS 11815 : 1986
revision )
uniforms
IS 1556 : 1960 Handloom cotton poplin, blea-
IS 11881 : 1986 Mens and boys woven shirt- ched or dyed
ing made of man-made fibres
and their blends. IS 1579 : 1979 Handloom cotton twills ( jirst
revision )
A-2 WOOL FABRICS, MILL MADE IS 1937 : 1987 Handloom cotton bleeding
Madras ( jirst revision )
IS No. IS 3771 : 1966 Long cloth: cotton khadi,
bleached
IS 673 : 1987 Cloth, woollen, twill, dyed
( third revision ) IS 3772 : 1966 Mazri, cotton khadi, scoured
IS 677 : 1974 Cloth, drab mixture, woollen IS 3778 : 1966 Dungri cloth, cotton khadi,
water-resistant ( second revi- bleached
sion ) IS 8797 : 1978 Handloom cotton fabric for
IS 679 : 1974 Great coat cloth, woollen school uniforms
dyed ( second revision )
IS 680 : 1974 Cloth, barathea ( second revi- A-4 WOOL FABRICS, HANDLOOM
I(HADI AND
sion )
IS 2319 : 1987 Serge ( third revision ) IS No. Title
IS 8331 : 1976 Angola shirting
IS 891 : 1957 Handloom worsted shirting
IS 8689 : 1978 Worsted gaberdine, khaki, Is 1265 . 1g58
drab Handloom woollen tweed
IS 12131 : 1987 All wool worsted suitings IS 1266 : 1958 Handloom serge
IS 12132 : 1987 Polyester wool blended worst- IS 4372 : 1967 Cloth, twill, dyed, wool khadi
ed suitings
A-5 SILK AND VISCOSE RAYON FABRICS,
A-3 COTTON FABRICS, HANDLOOM AND HANDLOOM
KHADI
IS No. Title
IS No. Title
IS 1584 : 1960 Handloom silk shirting, loom-
IS 749 : 1978 Handloom cotton dungri cloth state
( jirst revision ) IS 1686 : 1960 Handloom silk bush shirt
Is 751 : 1984 Handloom cotton mazri cloth cloth, loomstate
( loom state ) ( jirst revision ) IS 1687 : 1960 Handloom silk KORA ( loom-
IS 752 : 1984 Handloom cotton muslin, state ) cloth
bleached ( first revision ) IS 2159 : 1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre
IS 755 : 1984 Handloom cotton MALMAL shirting, bleached, dted, striped
( first revision ) or checked

3
 fs 12675:1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 2160: 1962 Handloom viscose staple fibre IS 3357 : 1965 Matka silk fabric
coating, bleached, dyed, striped IS 3358 . 1g65
or checked . Dupion silk fabric
1s 3359 : 1965 Silk coating

ANNEX B
( Clause 4.1.2.2 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS RELEVANT TO MATERIALS SELECTlON AND
GARMENT PRODUCTION

B-l FABRIC CONSTRUCTION AND IS No. Title

PERFORMANCE
IS 762 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile
4 Physical Methods of Tests materials to hypochlorite blea-
ching ( first revision )
IS No. Title IS 764 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile
materials to washing: Test 3
IS 1954 : 1969 Length and width of fabrics ( second revision )
( first revision ) IS 765 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile
IS 1963 : 1981 Threads per unit length in materials to washing: Test 4
woven fabrics ( second revision ) ( second revision )
IS 1964: 1981 Weight per square metre and IS 766 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile
weight per linear metre of materials to rubbing ( first
fabrics ( first revision ) revision )
IS 1969 : 1985 Breaking load and elongation IS 767 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile
of woven textile fabrics materials to water ( jrst revi-
( second revision ) sion )
IS 4125 : 1987 Glossary of terms pertaining IS 971 : 1983 Colour fastness of textile
to defects in fabrics ( first materials to perspiration ( first
revision ) revision )
IS 4681 : 1981 Recovery from creasing of IS 974 : 1984 Colour fastness of textile
textile fabrics by measuring materials to steaming under
the angle of recovery (jht atmospheric pressure ( second
revision ) revision )
IS 6489 : 1971 Tear strength of woven textile IS 1299 : 1984 Dimensional changes on wash-
fabrics by Elmendorf tester ing of fabrics woven from
IS 6490 : 1971 Stiffness of fabrics-cantilever rayon and synthetic fibres
test ( second revision )
IS 10971 : 1984 Pilling resistance of fabrics IS 1383 : 1977 Scouring loss in grey and
finished cotton textile mate-
b) Chemical Methods of Tests rials ( jirst revision )
Title
1s 1390 : 1983 pH value of aqueous extracts of
IS No.
textile materials (first revision )
IS 9 : 1982 Dimensional changes of woven IS 1564 : 1988 Quantitative chemical analy-
fabrics on washing near the sis of binary mixtures of cellu-
boiling point ( second revision ) lose triacetate and certain
Colour fastness of textile other fibres ( first revision )
IS 686 : 1985
materials to daylight ( jirst IS 1582 : 1968 Scouring loss in silk textile
revision ) materials
IS 687 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile IS 1889 Quantitative chemical analysis
materials to washing: Test 1 of binary mixtures of regene-
( second revision ) rated cellulose fibres and
cotton
IS 688 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile
materials to organic solvents Part 1 : 1976 Sodium zincate method (first
( j&t revision ) revision )
IS 689 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile Part 2 : 1976 Cadoxen solvent method
materials to hot pressing ( first Part 3 : 1979 Formic acid-zinc 6hloride
revision ) method

4
 IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

Part 4 : 1979 Sulphuric acid method (first IS 3148 : 1983 Metallic slide fasteners, general
revision ) purpose ( third revision )
IS 2006 : 1978 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 3780 : 1966 Lining cloth, cotton khadi,
of binary mixtures of protein dyed
Ebres and certain other fibres IS 4084 : 1978 Eyelets and washers ( sail )
( jirst revision ) ( first revision )
IS 2176 : 1962 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 4274 : 1981 Buckles ( first revision )
of binary mixtures of secon- IS 4829 : 1983 Plastic slide fasteners ( first
dary cellulose acetate. and revision )
certain other fibres IS 6117 : 1977 Tapes, cotton ( first revision )
IS 2177 : 1962 Quantitative chemical analysis IS 6488 : 1987 Cotton webbing for personal
of mixtures of cellulose triace- web equipment ( second revi-
tate and secondary cellulose sion )
acetate fibres
IS 6672 : 1972 Mercerized cotton .tapes for
iS 2454 : 1985 Colour fastness of textile berets
materials to artificial light IS 6726 : 1972 Interlinings for shirts
( xenon lamp ) ( first revision )
IS 7284 : 1973 Coarse cotton webbings
IS 2727 : 1964 Quantitative chemical analy-
sis of binary mixture of manila IS 7298 : 1973 Cotton webbing, proofed and
and sisal fibres unproofed
IS 2977 : 1964 Dimensional changes of woven IS 7426 : 1974 Special cotton webbings
fabrics ( other than wool ) on IS 7776 : 1975 Silk webbing
soaking in water IS 7777 : 1987 Cotton webbing, rolled edges
IS 3361 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile ( first revision )
materials to washing: Test 2 IS 8302 : 1977 Braided tape for berets
( first revision ) tapes for slide
IS 8894 : 1978 Cotton
IS 3416 : 1982 Quantitative chemical analy- fasteners
sis of mixtures of polyester IS 9675 : 1980 Woven cotton tapes, light,
fibres with cotton or regene- medium and heavy qualities
rated cellulose ( jkst revision ) IS 9686 : 1980 Elastic tape
IS 3417 : 1979 Colour fastness of textile IS 10056 : 1982 Silk ( viscose rayon ) ribbon
materials
, to
. . \ washing : Test 5 tape
t. Jcrst revision )
IS 3421 : 1966 Quantitative chemical analy- B-3 GARMENT MEASUREMENTS AND
sis of binarv mixtures of acry- SIZE DESIGNATION
lit and certain other fibres
IS No. Title
IS 3561 : 1966 Dimensional changes on wash-
ing of woven silk fabrics IS 6706 : 1972 Measurements for mens
IS 4802 : 1988 Colour fastness of textile shirts
materials to dry-cleaning ( first IS 7050 : 1973 Measurements for mens
revision ) manila shirts
IS 7213 : 1974 Measurements for mens
B-2 GARMENT ANCILLARIES trousers
IS 10015 Size designation of clothes:
IS No. Title
Part 1 : 1981 Definitions and body measure-
ment procedure
IS 1099 : 1957 Handloom cotton lining cloth,
dyed Part 2: 1981 Mens and boys outerwear
garments
IS 1102 : 1968 Handloom buckram cloth Womens and girls outerwear
Part 3 : 1982
( jirst revision ) garments
IS 1461 : 1984 Plastic buttons ( thermosett- Part 4 : 1982 Infants outerwear garments
ing ) ( second revision ) Part 5 : 1983 Mens and boys underwear,
IS 1535 : 1979 Cotton lining cloth ( first revi- nightwear and shirts
sion ) Part 6 : 1983 Womens and girls under-
IS 1720 : 1978 Cotton sewing threads ( second wear, nightwear, foundation
revision ) garments and shirts
Cotton embroidery threads Part 7 : 1982 Gloves
IS 1803 : 1973
( jirst revision ) Part 8 : 1983 Headwear

5
IS 12675 : 1989

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 10397 : 1987 Guide for sizing system for IS 11621 : 1986 Definitions and measure-
clothes ( $rst rCvision ) ments of body dimensions
for garment construction and
anthropometric survey pur-
poses

ANNEX C
( Clause 4.4.1 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON SEWING THREADS, EMBROIDERY THREADS
AND STITCHES

IS No. Title IS No. Title

&S 1720: 1978 Cotton sewing threads IS lo789 : 1983 Classification and termino-
( second revision ) logy of stitch types used in
IS 1803 : 1973 Cotton embroidery threads seams
( jirst revision ) JS 11161 : 1985 Textiles-seam types-classi-
fication and terminology

ANNEX D
(Clause 4.6.1 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON SAMPLING PLANS

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 1548 : 1981 Manual on basic principles of by count of defects (first

lot sampling ( second revi- revision )
sion ) Part 2 : 1965 Inspection by variables for
IS 2500 Sampling inspection tables : percent defective
Part 1 : 1973 Inspection by attributes and

ANNEX E
( Clause 4.7.1 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON LABELLING

IS No. Title IS No. Title

IS 4418 : 1967 Guide for care-labehing of IS 10194 : 1982 Guide for positioning of
textiles for laundering and labels in garments
dry-cleaning

ANNEX F
( CIause 4.8 )
LIST OF INDIAN STANDARDS ON PACKAGING OF GARMENTS

IS No. Title

IS 4039 : 1975 Code for packaging of ready-

made garments for export
( first revision )
 I I

I Standard Mark

The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian
I

Standards Act, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The Standard Mark on
products covered by an Indian Standard conveys the assurance that they have been produced
to comply with the requirements of that standard under a well defined system of inspection,
testing and quality control which is devised and supervised by BIS and operated by the pro-
.
ducer. Standard marked products are also continuously checked by BIS for conformity to
that standard as a further safeguard. Details of conditions under which a licence for the use
of the Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from
the Bureau of Indian Standards.
I I
Ihueao of Indian Standards

BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standard3 Act, 1986 to
promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality
certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country.

CopyrEgIlt

BIS has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may. be reproduced in
any form without the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in
the course of implementing the standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or
grade designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director ( Publications ), BIS.

Revision of Indian Standards

Indian Standards are reviewed periodically and revised, when necessary and amendments, if any,
are issued from time to time. Users of Indian Standards should ascertain that they are in possession
of the latest amendments or edition. Comments on this Indian Standard may be sent to BIS
giving the following reference:

Dot : No. TDC 43 ( 2471)

.,
1.
$1
Amendments Issued Since Publication

Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected

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