Lifetime

experience anywhere else on the planet.

You cant see horses like that

#2

Before I hopped on a plane and started my

journey to Canadas East Coast, I knew a little about the
region major cities, landmarks, national parks, those
sorts of things but Id never been there. The Fins and
Fiddles trip with One Ocean Expeditions changed that,
obviously, but in the most unexpectedly amazing and
rewarding ways.
I was looking forward to going to Sable Island, even
though I expected it to be nothing more than a sandbar.
But it was far more than that. The sheer amount of wildlife
on the island blew me away, from the worlds largest
breeding colony of grey seals to birds such as the roseate
tern, and the horses, of course you cant see horses like
on a ship, but these experiences allow you to explore
even farther, to have more freedom. When we sailed into
Bonne Bay by Gros Morne National Park, we used
stand-up paddleboards to get up close to a waterfall. That
sort of exibility gives you an experience you just cant
get on a cruise with 5,000 other people.
Ben Woodward
Winner of the 2017
Canadian Geographic
Challenge, passenger
aboard the One Ocean
BOOMER JERRITT/ONE OCEAN EXPEDITIONS

that anywhere else on the planet.

Navigator, 2017
I think part of what made stopping in places such as
Sable Island, the Magdalen Islands and Gros Morne IAN
GEOGR
AP
AD H
AN I
National Park so memorable was the variety of ways I was
CA
LC

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THE ROYA

able to explore them. I got to learn about and see the Learn more about One Ocean
OCIET Y

incredibly diverse landscapes, wildlife and cultures of Expeditions incredible range of voyages
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 CONTENTS

Features
23 CANADAS BEST WINTER DRIVES
Seven amazing road trips for the coolest
time of the year
By Kate Harris, John Lee, Conor Mihell, Susan
Nerberg, Karan Smith, Jenn Smith-Nelson and
Russell Wangersky

32 THE LAST CONTINENT

A voyage to Antarctica reveals
a continents-worth of wildlife
and ice at the end of the Earth
Photography by Javier Frutos
with text by Nick Walker

40 MAKING TRACKS IN MAURICIE

Experiencing the authentic winter heart of
Quebec, where the snow sets the pace
By Alexandra Pope

32
Departments
4 NOTEBOOK
Family travel By Aaron Kylie

9 GATEWAY
Heart of Golden, Chef for a day, Mountain games
COVERS AND TOP: JAVIER FRUTOS/CAN GEO; BOTTOM: MAURICIE-O. CROTEAU

and On our radar

18 ONECITY
Ice, water and family fun in Niagara Falls, Ont.
By Aaron Kylie

46 TENBEST
Bundle up and bait your hook in preparation to visit the
greatest ice-fishing destinations in the nation.
By Gord Pyzer

40
On the cover: A king penguin on Saunders Island, part of the
Falkland Islands archipelago in the southwest Atlantic Ocean.

CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL 3

 NOTEBOOK
Family travel
T
THERE ARE FEW things as beautiful as
trees coated in ice and freshly dusted with
snow. Of course, seeing such a scene
isnt an everyday occurrence, which may
be part of its allure. I still vividly recall a
childhood holiday trip, when my family
drove from our central Ontario cottage
through shield country to Quebec City.
For most of the journey the forests were
in that perfect glorious state, sun glinting
off icy boughs.
Two stories in this issue jogged that
memory. First and foremost is our story
on the nations best winter drives
(page 23). We may not all think of it this
way, but many Canadians pleasure
travel involves visiting family or friends.
(I routinely make a four-hour drive
along Ontarios Highway 7 between
CHRISTINE HESS/NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM
Ottawa and Bobcaygeon to visit my par-
ents.) When those trips are relatively
short in nature, we typically take to the
road, and we probably do so as often in
the winter around the holidays as at any
other time of year.
So as youre planning your family vis-
its this coming winter, consider our picks
4 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018
for best road trips. Perhaps one is close
to your regular route anyway, but even if
not, all are worth a detour or a specifically
planned trip. Sure, winter driving pres-
ents its own challenges the same ice
and snow that creates those gorgeous
scenes can also create treacherous road
conditions, but were Canadians, both
used to winter driving and not afraid of
getting out there, no matter the weather.
Its that very weather that can make for
the most memorable of road trips.
And chances are, were making them
with family anyway. Which brings me to
the second story here that twigged that
childhood travel memory. At my five-
year-old son Zevs request, we hit the
road to Ontarios Granagara Falls (as
he says it) this past summer. And while
Ive detailed the amazing winter offer-
ings in Niagara Falls (above) in the
magazines One city section on page
18, Im hopeful my kids will one day
wistfully recall the road trip. I already do.
Travel memories are made all the better
with family. Enjoy yours this season.
Aaron Kylie
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER John G. Geiger
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND PUBLISHER Gilles Gagnier
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER EMERITUS Andr Prfontaine
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Aaron Kylie
SENIOR EDITOR Harry Wilson
MANAGING EDITOR Nick Walker
ASSOCIATE EDITOR Michela Rosano
DIGITAL EDITOR Alexandra Pope
TRAVEL EDITOR-AT-LARGE Andrew Lovesey
SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Tanya Kirnishni
COPY EDITOR Stephanie Small
PROOFREADER Judy Yelon
EDITORIAL INTERNS Joanne Pearce, Marina Wang
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Javier Frutos
CARTOGRAPHER Chris Brackley
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Kendra Stieler
GRAPHIC DESIGNER Jenny Chew
CONTRACT DESIGNER Kathryn Barqueiro
PHOTO RESEARCHER Genevive Taylor
COLOUR TECHNICIAN Glenn Campbell
PHOTOGRAPHERS-IN-RESIDENCE Neil Ever Osborne, Michelle Valberg
DIRECTOR OF CIRCULATION Nathalie Cuerrier
NEWSSTAND CONSULTANT Scott Bullock
DIRECTOR OF SALES Valerie Hall Daigle
(416) 360-4151 ext. 380 halldaigle@canadiangeographic.ca
ADVENTURES Lisa Duncan Brown
(888) 445-0052 brown@canadiangeographic.ca
111 Queen Street East, Suite 320, Toronto, ON M5C 1S2
(416) 360-4151 Fax: (416) 360-1526
DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Tim Joyce
DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Mike Elston
NEW MEDIA MANAGER Paul Politis
PROJECT MANAGER Roisin OReilly
PROGRAM MANAGER Soha Kneen
LOGISTICS COORDINATOR Emma Viel
VICE-PRESIDENT, FINANCE AND ADMINISTRATION Catherine Frame
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT Christine Chatland
ACCOUNTS PAYABLE/ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE CLERK Lydia Blackman
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Sandra Smith
RECEPTIONIST/OFFICE COORDINATOR Diane Sguin
Canadian Geographic is published by Canadian Geographic
Enterprises on behalf of The Royal Canadian Geographical Society.
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Circulation audited by the Alliance for Audited Media.
Canadian Geographic and design are registered trademarks. Marque dpose.
 88
The Royal Canadian
Geographical Society
The th Annual
College of

Fellows Dinner
Founded in 1929, the Society is a non-profit educational organization.
Its object is to advance geographical knowledge and, in particular,
to stimulate awareness of the significance of geography in Canadas
development, well-being and culture. Primary fields of interest
include our people, resources, environment, heritage and the
evolution of our country. In short, the aim is to make Canada better
known to Canadians and to the world. Canadian Geographic, the
Societys magazine, is dedicated to reporting on all aspects of
Canadas geography physical, biological, historical, cultural and
economic and on major issues of concern to Canada in which
geographical dimensions play a significant role.
Celebrating Canadas 150th anniversary with special guests, including ...
PATRON
His Excellency the Right Honourable David Johnston
C.C., C.M.M., C.O.M., C.D.
Governor General of Canada
Honorary Vice-President
VICE-PATRON

WADE
Sir Christopher Ondaatje, O.C., C.B.E.
HONORARY PRESIDENT
Alex Trebek, O.C.

DAVIS
HONORARY VICE-PRESIDENTS
Roberta Bondar, O.C., O.Ont.
Pierre Camu, O.C.
Arthur E. Collin
Wade Davis, C.M.
Gisle Jacob
Louie Kamookak, O.Nu. Thursday,
Denis A. St-Onge, O.C.
EXPLORER-IN-RESIDENCE Nov. 16, 2017
Jill Heinerth
Gatineau, Que.
PRESIDENT
Gavin Fitch, Q.C., Calgary
VICE-PRESIDENTS
Wendy Cecil, C.M., Toronto
Connie Wyatt Anderson, The Pas, Man.

ROBERT CARTER/CAN GEO

SECRETARY
Joseph Frey, C.D., Toronto
TREASURER
Keith Exelby, Ottawa
IMMEDIATE PAST PRESIDENT
Paul Ruest, Winnipeg
COUNSEL
Andrew Pritchard, Ottawa
GOVERNORS
Jean C. Andrey, Waterloo, Ont.
Glenn Blackwood, St. Johns
James Boxall, Halifax
John Hovland, Toronto
Claire Kennedy, Toronto
David Mitchell, Calgary
Lynn Moorman, Calgary
John Pollack, Bonnington, B.C.
Paul VanZant, Amaranth, Ont.

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER John G. Geiger

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER AND PUBLISHER Gilles Gagnier
VICE-PRESIDENT, FINANCE AND ADMINISTRATION Catherine Frame DR. WADE DAVIS is one of Canadas great storytellers, and has been
VICE-PRESIDENT, EVENTS Carole Saad described as a rare combination of scientist, scholar, poet and passionate
EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Sandra Smith defender of all of lifes diversity.
DIRECTOR OF ADVANCEMENT Jason Muscant An author of 20 books, including One River, The Wayfinders, The Sacred
DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION Ellen Curtis Headwaters, Into the Silence and River Notes, he is also known for his stunning
EDUCATION PROGRAM COORDINATORS Sara Black, Andrea Buchholz photography, which has been widely published and celebrated in exhibits.
COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER Deborah Chapman A recipient of the RCGS Gold Medal and the Explorers Club Medal, Wade
ARCHIVIST Wendy Simpson-Lewis
was made a Member of the Order of Canada in 2016 and currently serves as
Honorary Vice-President of the RCGS.
1155 Lola Street, Suite 200, Ottawa, ON K1K 4C1
(613) 745-4629 rcgs@rcgs.org rcgs.org

THIS EVENT IS SOLD OUT

 H
L E T
A B 18
I L ER
A
AV EM
B LOOK FOR IT ON
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NEWSSTANDS
AND ONLINE

BEST WILDLIFE
PHOTOGRAPHY 2018

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MORE?
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online
 ADVENTURES See us at canadiangeographic.ca
canadiangeographic.ca

Plan your Inuit adventure in Nunaviks National Parks: 1-844-NUNAVIK | NUNAVIKPARKS.CA

ONLINE
Driving by dog
Meet musher Matt Parr and his team
of huskies in a video visit to Golden
Aurora Explorer
Dog Sled Adventures in mountainous Freight Boat Tours
southeastern British Columbia. Explore the remote channels, islands &
cangeo.ca/nov17/dogsled fjords of British Columbias rugged,
central coast aboard the M.V. Aurora
Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth Explorer. Enjoy passenger comfort,
spectacular cuisine, scenery & wildlife.
The hotel that hosted John Lennon and
Campbell River, British Columbia
Yoko Onos famous Bed-In for Peace
has re-opened to the public after exten-
sive renovations. Watch a video tour of its
new features and retro-chic style (above).
cangeo.ca/nov17/fairmont

Quebec from above

Watch the pristine winter wilderness of
Mauricie, Que., unfold beneath you in a
stunning aerial tour of the region.
cangeo.ca/nov17/quebec

Digital issue
Take Canadian Geographic wherever
you go, while also accessing bonus
videos and photos with the digital
issue for tablets.
cangeo.ca/digital www.marinelinktours.com 250.286.3347

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C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 7
 ARE YOU A

GEO GENIUS?
What was the
ORIGINAL NAME OF
LAKE LOUISE,
Banff National Parks most
photographed lake?

A KT U K
a) Jade Lake
TUKTOY it b) Blue Lake
Inuvialu
is a small c) Turquoise Lake
cated in
hamlet lo d) Emerald Lake
itory?
which terr

IS A
MUMMICHOG
a bird, fish, seal
or mollusc?

AVAILABLE ON CANGEO.CA/ULTQUIZ
NEWSSTANDS
THE TOUGHEST CANADIAN GEOGRAPHY QUIZ EVER,
AND ONLINE
with fascinating and fun facts about our land, people,
NOW wildlife, climate and history that are sure to challenge you.
GATE AY

BRITISH COLUMBIA KONA IS NO damsel in distress. For start- A team of huskies owned by Golden Dog Sled
ers, shes a dog a white Alaskan husky, Adventures rests on a trail in Golden, B.C.

Heart of to be exact. But the story of her rescue does

carry a whiff of fairy tale (spoiler: it has a
happy ending). Before Kona arrived in
People have been using dogs as a
means of snowy long-distance travel for

Golden Golden, B.C., to trot off into her snowy

sunset, she was in a rough spot in
Saskatchewan. (The details arent entirely
BY SABRINA DOYLE clear but indicate she was neglected by an
ill-equipped dogsledder stretched too thin.)
She was saved from that life by her current
musher-cum-Prince Charming, Matt Parr.
When I first meet Kona and Parr, theyre
snuggled on a couch next to a crackling
potbelly stove, Kona gazing into the blue eyes
of the man whos devoted his life to saving
0 20 km pups in similar positions. Over the past 11
A L B E R TA
years, Parr has rescued some 50 dogs.
BRITISH
COLUMBIA He has trained and successfully found
ALBERTA
homes for most of them with nearby farms
Enlarged
area 93 and families. But 14 of those dogs now run
for Parrs Golden Dog Sled Adventures,
centuries; the earliest evidence of sleigh-
bound dogs dates back to AD 1000 and
the Thule people of Canadas North. From
their history as mail-carriers in northern
Canada and Alaska to the famous lead
sled dogs Togo and Balto who relayed
medicine by team to a remote Alaskan
village suffering from a diphtheria out-
break to the fictional Buck from Jack
Londons 1903 novel The Call of the Wild,
sled dogs have long held a special place
within the northern narrative.
Today, the human-dog transportation
relationship is less about survival and
more a matter of lifestyle. Some opportu-
nistic sledding outfits, says Parr, take
advantage of aspirational dog-lovers and
PETER SHEARD; MAP: CHRIS BRACKLEY/CAN GEO

BANFF
NATIONAL the touring business he launched in 2013 prioritize profits above the health of their
GOLDEN PARK
BRITISH DOG SLED in the town best known for skiing, snow- charges. Some owners have simply grown
Donald ADVENTURES YOHO
NATIONAL Lake boarding and snowmobiling. too old for the business, he notes, but are
PARK Louise
Blaeberry
Field A tour with Parr, however, is an oppor- too attached to their dogs to let them go.
Rogers
Pass
Golden 1 tunity not to be missed for visiting winter Parr says the small size of his outfit
GLACIER enthusiasts. It offers an introduction to he caps his capacity at two teams
Co

1 NATIONAL
lu

PARK 95 the tradition of dogsledding and a heart- is what makes it particularly special.
m

ia
b

KOOTENAY People want to see the connection, that

R warming story of a man dedicated to sav-
C O L U M B I A iver NATIONAL
PARK
ing sled dogs. bond, between the musher and the

C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 9
 GATEWAY

dogs, he says. You cant get that with
some of the larger, 100-dog kennels.
True to his words, guests dont just get
to mush dogs with Parrs outfit. Before
they hit the trails, they meet the animals,
get acquainted with each ones personal-
ity and help harness them to the sled.
They also learn about the differences
between the Siberian and Alaskan hus-
kies that make up Parrs pack.
Siberians are all about brawn their
big, fluffy bodies can haul heavy weight over
long distances in the coldest of conditions.
Alaskan huskies such as Kona, however, are
essentially mutts. They combine the speed
and lightweight build of greyhounds, point-
ers and collies with the strength and cold
resilience of their counterparts.
Kona is the lead dog of the team I take
to the trail with. Shes sweet and smart,
Golden Dog Sled Adventures owner Matt
Parr helps steer the sled during a ride.
coordination. From my snug and warm
position on the sled, I look up to see Parr
barking Ha and Go to instruct Left
and Right to the team. His enthusiasm
is infectious, his love for the dogs obvious.
Honestly, all the stresses of my life go
away when Im mushing dogs, he says.
Together with his girlfriend, Parr is
currently working on a new project called
Team Spirit, which will operate out of
Golden Dog Sled Adventures and be
devoted to the rescue, rehabilitation and
re-homing of retired or unwanted sled a warm water and chicken mixture into
dogs. Eventually, he says, an eight-hect- each dogs bowl, giving each an apprecia-
are sanctuary behind his main office will tive pat. I join the group in the cabin for
serve as a safe environment in which hot chocolate and cookies. Its a perfect
rescued dogs will be able to heal, and happily-ever-after.

PETER SHEARD
and as we race through evergreens along bring joy to others.
the well-packed trail surrounded by When the tour is done, its time to give Watch a video of Parr with his dogs at
mountains, I marvel at the teams the dogs (and guests) a treat. Parr splashes cangeo.ca/nov17/dogsled.

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GATEWAY
North
Korea

Gangneung
WINTER OLYMPICS SEOUL
Pyeongchang

Mountain games
FORGET THE SWISS ALPS this year. The Korean Alps,
as the Taebaek Mountains near Pyeongchang, South Korea,
are known, are set to steal the winter sports spotlight as the
area hosts the Olympic Winter Games from Feb. 9 to 25,
2018. Athletes and spectators from around the world will
stream into Pyeongchang and the surrounding region in
northeastern Gangwon province for the snow, ice and alpine
events. Heres a look at the location of the Games, its venues
and some of the areas top attractions.
Michela Rosano
Jeongseon Alpine Centre
South
Spectators can travel efficiently from Incheon Korea
International Airport outside of Seoul, South
Koreas capital, to Olympic venues in
Pyeongchang and Gangneung on a new high-
speed rail line. The line will cut transportation
time between the airport and Pyeongchang
from 3 hours to just over 1 hours.
Bokwang Snow Park
The more than 1,000-year-old Woljeongsa
Temple in Odaesan National Park is one of
many Buddhist temples across the country
offering accommodations during the
Games. Visitors can experience the life of a
monk and learn about the countrys
Buddhist heritage.

Olympic Sliding Centre

W
Wolgeongsa T
Temple
Y
Yongpyong Alpine Centre
Alpensia Biathlon Centre
Alpensia Ski Jumping Centre
Alpensia Cross-Country Centre
Daegwallyeong Snow Festival PyeongChang Olympic Stadium

PYEONGCHANG

The annual Daegwallyeong Snow Festival in Pyeongchang

countys Daegwallyeong township (Feb. 7 to 18, 2018) is
one of the cultural events taking place during the Games.
The quirky festival celebrates the regions bountiful snow
and ice, kicking off with a fireworks display followed by a
snow art contest, trout ice-fishing and, most famously, an
international half-naked marathon.
Kwandong Hockey Centre
The PyeongChang Mountain Cluster on the snowy, high-eleva-
tion slopes of the Taebaek Mountains, which run along the
eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is home to the Olympic
Stadium (site of the opening and closing ceremonies) and
seven other venues, including the US$1.5-billion Alpensia
Resort complex, where ski jumping, biathlon and cross-country
ski events will be held. Alpine events will take place in the
nearby city of Jeongseon at the new Jeongseon Alpine Centre,
while snowboarding and freestyle skiing events will happen to
the north of the cluster at Bokwang Snow Park.

Gangneung Curling Centre Gangneung Oval

Gangneung Hockey Centre
Gangneung Ice Arena
GANGNEUNG

Five venues hosting the Games ice events, including hockey (in
both the newly built Gangneung and Kwandong hockey centres),
curling and skating, are in the Gangneung Coastal Cluster on the 0 5 km
Sea of Japan in the largest city in Gangwon province. The cluster
MAP: CHRIS BRACKLEY/CAN GEO

Approximate foreground scale

Scale varies across the map
will also host large-scale cultural performances.

See a map of the 2018 Paralympic Games (March 9 to 18, 2018) and more top
attractions in the Pyeongchang area at cangeo.ca/nov17/paralympics.
 A DAS
CAN
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ENT IN!
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TR I P !

RI D EA U CA
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GATEWAY

TORONTO

Chef for a day

AS THE KITCHEN awakens with the
hollow clang of pots and pans and the
tinkling of cooking utensils, I jot down
ingredients in a notebook: Manchego
cheese, green peas, eggplant, straw-
berries, grapes and one surprise meat.
Perched at the chefs table next to the
kitchen, Im being briefed by a convivial
group of chefs and staff at the TOCA
restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton in Toronto.
Im participating in the Ritzs Urban
Food Safari, part of a new program called
Off the Eaten Track that the hotel
launched earlier this year. First, Ill head
to a market to shop with a local culinary
tour guide. Then, Ill bring my loot back
to the restaurant, make one dish with one
of the chefs, and finally enjoy a five-course
meal designed especially for me from the
ingredients I gather.
The Ritz partnered with the Culinary
Adventure Co., Canadas largest food
tourism and experience operator, to create
a series of curated experiences exploring
the Torontos vibrant and culturally
diverse food scene. The tours include for-
aging for mushrooms in the Don Valley
trail, breaking bread with top restaura-
vendors selling everything from caviar
and antipasto to viennoiseries and raw,
gluten-free gnocchi, theres something
for every palate.
Durkee knows many of the food ven-
dors by name. He introduces me to
Mario Aricci of Ponesse Foods where
we buy the juiciest strawberries. At
Schefflers Delicatessen and Cheese, we
opt to replace the Manchego cheese with
a wedge of Grey Owl, its dark ash rind
cloaking a velvety goats milk cheese
from Quebec. Along the way, we sample
a world famous peameal bacon sand-
wich and stab through a plug of cream in TOCA restaurant (top), where food from the
a bottle to sample the most decadent St. Lawrence Market (above) was prepared.
chocolate milk.
As Durkee and I munch on kangaroo Then, seated at the chefs table, I
pepperettes at Whitehouse Meats, I watch as Trivero creates dish after gor-
remember I must choose one surprise geous dish for me based on my St.
meat ingredient. In keeping with the safari Lawrence Market finds, including a
theme, I buy a piece of camel sirloin. Grey Owl cheese platter with honey, red
Back at TOCA, chef de cuisine pepper and Concord grapes and my
Daniele Trivero greets Durkee and me eggplant parmesan plated with a fresh
in the kitchen. As we lay out the bounty, piece of halibut.
he scans the ingredients. When he sees As Trivero serves the main course I
the slab of camel meat I detect a slight notice him slide the camel sirloin dish to
amusement or maybe irritation. He the side. I sample a piece a delicacy in
TOP: COURTNEY HAYDEN; BOTTOM: JOANNE KIM

teurs and chefs, and paddling a voyageur
canoe around the Toronto Islands, learn-
ing about local geography and birds
before enjoying a catered picnic.
With my grocery list in hand, Kevin
Durkee, co-owner of the Culinary
Adventure Co., whisks me off to the St.
Lawrence Market, the largest indoor
market in Toronto. With more than 200
examines it, turning it over in his hand,
sniffing it.
Im then handed a TOCA spritz cock-
tail, tossed an apron and put to work. I
slice olives, shave parmesan and peel the
eggplants I bought at the market while
Trivero a native of Italy shows me
how to make an elegantly simple egg-
plant parmesan.
parts of the Middle East and find it
gamey and extremely chewy. Trivero asks
me what I think. Camel bubblegum, I
say. Exactly! he says. It needs to be
braised. And he whisks the dish away.
Hannah James
Watch a video of Torontos Ritz-Carlton
Urban Food Safari at cangeo.ca/nov17/ritz.

14 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 Jad Davenport/National Geographic Creative
GATEWAY
DESTINATIONS
On our radar
SEEING THE WORKS of Michelangelo in
New York City, visiting a 2018 European
Capital of Culture and being in Ottawa for
two major sporting events are the top travel
experiences chosen by Canadian Geographic
Travel staff this fall and winter.
MICHELANGELO AT THE MET, NEW
YORK CITY Theres a reason why
Michelangelo was called the divine one
by his peers; his mastery over various art
forms still captivates us today. Luckily,
you dont need to fly to Rome to experi-
ence his work in person starting in
November, a weekend trip to New York
City will suffice. There, the Metropolitan
Museum of Arts exhibit Michelangelo:
Divine Draftsman and Designer (Nov. 13,
2017 to Feb. 12, 2018) features an
impressive range of pieces, including
nearly 150 drawings, three marble sculp-
tures, his earliest paintings and numer-
ous other masterpieces brought from
across the United States and Europe.
Sounds divine to me. metmuseum.org
Joanne Pearce, editorial intern
16 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018
VALLETTA, MALTA Diminutive though
it may be, Valletta is set to attract some
major attention as a 2018 European
Capital of Culture, a title the elegant capi-
tal of the Mediterranean island of Malta
owes partly to its turbulent history.
Established in the 1560s, Valletta sits on
a peninsula whose occupants have spoken
a multitude of languages as a revolving
door of invaders Phoenician, Roman,
Spanish and French among them spun
over the centuries, creating a cultural
palimpsest that earned the city UNESCO
World Heritage Site status in 1980. That
legacy will be on show throughout 2017
and 2018 via a host of music and film
festivals, dance performances, art exhib-
its, theatre productions, public talks and
the citys annual carnival. Do you need a
better excuse to soak up some sunshine
in the Med? valletta2018.org
Sabrina Doyle
THE GREY CUP & NHL100 CLASSIC,
OTTAWA The nations capital gets pretty
much the last kick at the sesquicentennial
FOR A SEATED FIGURE (VERSO), MICHELANGELO BUONARROTI, COURTESY OF THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART; ANDRE RINGUETTE/FREESTYLE PHOTOGRAPHY/OTTAWA REDBLACKS
Clockwise from above left: Valletta; one of
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: VALLETTA2018; STUDIES FOR THE LIBYAN SIBYL (RECTO); STUDIES FOR THE LIBYAN SIBYL AND A SMALL SKETCH
the Mets Michelangelo works; an Ottawa
Redblacks player hoists the Grey Cup.
celebrations can by hosting two big sport-
ing events less than a month apart: the
105th Grey Cup (Nov. 26) and an outdoor
NHL game between the hometown
Senators and the Montreal Canadiens
(Dec. 16), both at TD Place Stadium. The
former event is less a game than it is a
six-day party featuring plenty of face paint,
a street festival, tailgating and outland-
ishly dressed fans before culminating in
the championship game. The latter con-
test, meanwhile, also marks the NHLs
centennial and will be the latest chapter
in a rivalry that began when the two teams
met on the leagues opening night on
Dec. 19, 1917. Sport doesnt get more
quintessentially Canadian than this.
Harry Wilson, senior editor
Tell us what destination is on your radar
this fall and winter via (@CanGeo) or
(fb.com/cangeo).
2018
OUR 2018
CALENDARS ARE NOW
AVAILABLE

To see all of our calendars, visit cangeo.ca/calendars

Wicked Weather Canadian Scenes

Images from the Canadian Geographic Photo Club 16-Month 2018 Calendar
16-Month 2018 Calendar
ONECITY
3 VENUES

Niagara Falls, Ont.

By Aaron Kylie

1 . SIGHTS

N O MATTER THE SEASON, the Horseshoe (right),

American and Bridal Veil falls are the attraction in the city
named after the world-famous water features. But winter ups
the awe-factor ante. Spray from the falls transforms lamp posts,
trees and buildings along the adjacent Niagara Parkway into
ice sculptures. Experience the natural art gallery with a stroll
from the Floral Showhouse (home to collections of orchids, home to the citys Winter Festival of Lights. Between dusk and
succulents and other tropical plants), past the Table Rock midnight from mid-November to the end of January, millions
Welcome Centre (next to Horseshoe Falls and home to inter- of tree and ground lights and more than 125 animated light
pretive attractions that get you even closer to the raging water) displays create a sparkling spectacle amid the icy mist.
to Rainbow Bridge. That route and other nearby streets are also niagaraparks.com, niagarafallstourism.com, wfol.com

2 . FA M I LY
IF THERE WERE such a thing as five-star resorts for kids, the Great Wolf
Lodge would fit the bill. There are 14 of these ultimate hotel-meets-
indoor waterpark mashups in North America, but just one Canadian
location, in Niagara Falls (left). True to its name, the resort plays up the
lodge theme with natural decor, from a grand faux-stone fireplace and
animated wildlife in the lobby (including wolves, bears and a big talking
tree) to rustic log furnishings in the rooms. Of course, the waterpark is
the real draw. It boasts nine waterslides (geared for a range of ages and
adrenaline rushes), a wave pool, a lazy river, a kiddie pool and slides,

TOP: CHRISTINE HESS/NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM; MIDDLE: AARON KYLIE/CAN GEO; BOTTOM: HOCO FUN BY THE FALLS
and more. If the water doesnt wear out your wee ones, theres a variety
of other kid-friendly activities on offer daily, from arts and crafts to a PJ
dance party. greatwolflodge.com/niagara

3 . FUN
KIDS OF ALL AGES cant help but find fun in the Clifton Hill area, the touristy
promenade near the centre of town, home to fun museums, waxworks and
arcades. Get a birds-eye view of the action (as well as the falls and the sur-
rounding area) from the Niagara SkyWheel (right), a 53.3-metre-high ferris
wheel with enclosed and heated eight-passenger cars about halfway up the
hill. Take selfies with your favourite celebs at Louis Tussauds Waxworks and
Movieland Wax Museum of the Stars, learn about the worlds weirdest and
wackiest at the Ripleys Believe It or Not and Guinness World Records muse-
ums, and test your fearlessness at The House of Frankenstein. Chocolate
lovers shouldnt miss Hersheys Chocolate World, a not-far-enough-to-burn-
calories walk around the corner on Falls Avenue that offers up packaged and fresh-
made treats from the famed candy maker. cliftonhill.com, ripleys.com/niagarafalls,
houseoffrankenstein.ca, hersheyschocolateworldniagarafalls.com

Read more about the family fun on offer at Niagara Falls

Great Wolf Lodge at cangeo.ca/nov17/greatwolf.

18 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

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Foundation
 BEST
WINTER DRIVES
THE ONSET OF COLD AND SNOW shouldnt spell the end
of road tripping for the coming months. The lines of motor-
ists that would slow your roll through resort towns and
on the highways to cottage country in the summer may be
in hibernation, but the routes themselves from
Newfoundlands Viking Trail to the B.C.-Yukon border-
traversing Alaska Highway never quit.
But they are transformed. Rolling white Prairies become
almost hypnotically beautiful, mountains are crusted in snow,
and the wild seas along the West Coast will drop your jaw. All
cold-weather travel takes is a little bit of extra planning and a
readiness to brush with the unexpected, so check the long-
term forecast, throw a well-stocked safety kit in the trunk, give
your winter tires a kick and set out on one of the seven spec-
tacular winter road trips featured here.
Did we miss your favourite Canadian winter drive? Let us know on
(@CanGeo) or (fb.com/cangeo).
C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 23
 Visitors snowshoe in Gros Morne National
Park in Newfoundland and Labrador.

0 50 km Bu
510 Carnt Quirpon
QUEBEC pe

Blanc-Sablon Flower's 430

Cove Green St. Anthony
Island
Pidgeon Cove- Cove
St. Barbe 432

LA
Roddickton-

PEN HERN
430
Port au Choix Bide Arm

SU
IN
NEWFOUNDLAND
T
OR AND LABRADOR
AT N

THE VIKING TRAIL your timing is good, moose soup, chili,

GRE

NEWFOUNDLAND meatballs and shepherds pie could be Baie

GROS Verte LaScie
on the menu. 430 MORNE
Sally's
Cove NATIONAL
And not just on the menu. Moose Rocky PARK 410
Harbour 420
NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART, (and caribou, closer to the northern end Springdale
Ta 431 Norris
ble
lan Point
Newfoundlands Viking Trail is of the route) are a common sight, with ds 1
1

RIGHT: SBASTIEN LAROSE/TOURISME CANTONS-DE-LEST; ALL MAPS: CHRIS BRACKLEY/CAN GEO

the spinal cord for the string of small
towns dotted along the islands Great
Northern Peninsula.
Route 430 winds north from Deer Lake,
carrying goods to towns with names such
as Sallys Cove and Quirpon (pronounced
car-poon), and with an onshore wind in
winter, snow can arrive at any moment.
If you really need to stretch your legs
(and lungs), stop your transit of the trail
in Gros Morne National Park, where
there are 50 kilometres of groomed
cross-country ski trails.
Refuel yourself back in Deer Lake or
move on to Norris Point or Rocky
Harbour; all three towns traditionally
stagger their winter carnivals from mid-
February through to early March, and if
the former frequent enough to be a seri-
ous road hazard for the unwary.
Sights on this portion of the trail
include the small, bright huddle of
shoreline houses on open ground in
Green Island Cove, the Flowers Cove
lighthouse (which is so tantalizingly
close it appears you can almost touch it,
but is actually ensconced on a small
harbour island) and, near the top of the
peninsula, the sheltered bowl of St.
Anthony Harbour.
And finally, if you can make it, Burnt
Cape, a limestone cape of broken stone
so barren and windswept you would
swear you had turned north and found
the Arctic.
Russell Wangersky
430
Deer Lake
PREVIOUS SPREAD: FIRST LIGHT/ALL CANADA PHOTOS. THIS SPREAD, LEFT: PARKS CANADA;
Bishop's Falls
1 1
Grand Falls-
Corner Brook
370
Windsor
Buchans
DISTANCE 418 kilometres
DONT MISS A detour down Route
431, which will bring you to the
Tablelands. In winter sun, its a sight so
stark youll shiver no matter how well
dressed you are.
SOUNDTRACK The albums Honey for
Bees or Sun Gets in Your Eyes, both by
western Newfoundlands Sherman
Downey and the Ambiguous Case.

24 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 BEST
WINTER DRIVES

MONTREAL TO THE
EASTERN A skier gets some air at Owls Head
ski resort near Mansonville, Que.
TOWNSHIPS
QUEBEC
IT MIGHT BE a stretch to call it the
Powder Highway of the East. But set
out from Montreal on Autoroute 10 E, and
sooner than you can say black diamond
youve left behind flat farm fields and hit
enough contour lines to guarantee a good
day on the slopes. Consider the highway to
the Eastern Townships, a hill-studded
swath between the St. Lawrence River and
the U.S. border just east of the countrys
second-largest city, your season ticket or
weekend pass to the closest you might
get to reaching skiing Nirvana this side
of the Rockies. Route 241 and 139 drops you at the foot If the promise of speeding down the
Start your weekend by heading out of Mount Sutton. If youre the sporty slopes isnt enough to convince you to
right after office hours for a few Friday type, you slap fake mohair skins on make the trip, perhaps the regions
happy hours in the snow. At Bromont, your skis and make your way to the aprs-ski offerings will whet your appe-
only 50 minutes from Montreal, 99 of the summit on your own steam before tite. Some 60 per cent of Quebecs wines,
143 groomed runs are lit until midnight, dropping in to what some people argue including the provinces first chardon-
making it the resort with the biggest is the best glade skiing experience in nay, are made here. And of course, along
night skiing terrain in North America. It the country. with the wine comes food pairings from
gets even better on the hills Nuits For a more mellow ride, head a bit forward-thinking farmers and artisanal
Blanches, which rock n roll on several farther east to Mount Orford. Rated a bakers, butchers, cheese makers and
consecutive Saturday nights of the sea- good beginner mountain with more than chocolatiers, not to mention the most
son, when the lifts stay open until 2 a.m. half of its trails green or blue, it boasts inventive of beers at Ferme Brassicole
and the bars close at 3 because its the highest summit and some of the near Mount Orford, where the brew-
never too late for aprs-ski. best views in the region. And at master creates suds using ingredients
On Saturday, leave the party scene nearby Owls Head, where the top eleva- such as maple and strawberries, offering
behind and ease into nature. Meandering tion gives you a panorama of lakes and plenty of reasons to toss a coin as to who
between maple- and spruce-draped hills, 70 per cent of the runs are beginner in your party will be the designated driver.
hills, the half-hour drive south along or intermediate. Susan Nerberg
Saint- 137
Amable Acton Vale Richmond
20 Saint-
Laval Q U E B E C Windsor DISTANCE 93 kilometres to Bromont, 115
Hyacinthe 55
20
15
Longueuil Saint-Damase to Sutton, 128 to Orford, 144 to Mansonville
MONTRAL 139 Valcourt
40 Saint-Pie Roxton Pond (Owls Head)
Hudson 112
Marieville
Dorval rence Rive
r 10 112 Granby Sherbrooke DONT MISS Balnea, a thermal spa with
w
La Chteauguay Mont steam and dry saunas and hot tubs close to
.

Saint-Jean- Orford
St

sur-Richelieu Bromont Bromont, for soothing ski-sore muscles or

Farnham 10
138 Saint-Rmi
Ski Bromont
147
warming up after a day of playing outside.
15 241 Lac
Lac Brome
og

Saint- 55 Massawippi
SOUNDTRACK Coeur de Pirate on the
ag

133
Alexandre Cowansville
m

Napierville way to the hills; Jean Leloup before hitting

phr

139 Mont Coaticook

Lac

Sutton 243
Mem

Bedford Sutton Owls

141 the slopes; Leonard Cohen for the drive
Head back to Montreal.
Mansonville CANADA
U.S.A.
NEW YORK V E R M O N T

C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 25
Snow blankets the trees
along the Niagara River.

TORONTO TO festivities that take over the January Acton 7

Brampton
410 427
DVP

NIAGARA weekend calendar to celebrate that

sweet fruit of the winter vine. Niagara Milton 407 Mississauga
TORONTO

0 10 km
ONTARIO Falls kicks things off with a gala wine 401 407

QEW Oakville
dinner at the Fallsview Casino Resort O N TA R I O LAKE
403
6

CAN
Burlington

U.S
WHEN A HIGHWAY starts off (Jan. 12, 2018), Twenty Valley is home

.A.
5 ONTARIO

ADA
with more bumper views than to the artsy Winter WineFest (Jan. Hamilton
Niagara-on-the-Lake
escarpment vistas, it may require a few 12-14, 2018) in Jordan Village, and 403
NIA QEW St. Catharines
deep-breath ohms to get you on your Niagara-on-the-Lake takes the party out- GAR Jordan
A
ESCAR NEW
PMENT
way. But a wintertime journey from side with its long-running Icewine Caledonia Smithville Niagara YORK
Falls
Toronto to the Niagara region is no less Festival (Jan. 19 to Jan. 28). 6
Welland
worthy of the road-trip moniker: the You can experience notable chefs and 3
3
QEW

cosy car, the playlist, the getaway!
As you follow the QEW and the urban
spread of the Greater Toronto Area toward
the industrial skyline of Hamilton and the
Burlington Skyway bridge, the relief of the
regional roads and more intimate Lake
Ontario moments are not far off.
Plus, country calm awaits: local din-
ners with wine or craft beer pairings,
cosy inns with fireplaces and seasonal
events from the Shaw Festivals
A Christmas Carol (December) to the
Niagara Falls Winter Festival of Lights
(Nov. 18, 2017, to Jan. 31, 2018).
The Niagara Peninsulas big cold-
weather draw, however, is the icewine
VQA icewines in formal-wear finery, but Dunnville Port Colborne
3
you can also watch a raucous barrel roll-
ing competition or join an underground
wine cave after-party. A Niagara Icewine
Festival Discovery Pass also allows you to
pick and choose wine-and-culinary
DISTANCE 130 kilometres
matchups at participating wineries over
three weekends. And its here, while trav- DONT MISS Slipping on your mittens
and savouring icewine in a glass carved
elling country roads past frozen fields
from ice at Niagara-on-the-Lakes Sparkle
toward warmly-lit converted barns or and Ice gala.
tasting rooms with grand vistas of the
SOUNDTRACK Sample southern
Niagara Escarpment, that youll get the Ontario talent such as Whitehorse and the
reward that only the very best road trips Strumbellas, or try some Royal Wood, a
can offer: your next stop unknown but no singer-songwriter-sommelier-in-training.
less anticipated.
Karan Smith

26 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 BEST
WINTER DRIVES

SASKATOON TO
PRINCE ALBERT
NATIONAL PARK
SASKATCHEWAN
YOU ARENT ALONE if you think
the snow-dusted hay bales found
along the wide-open Saskatchewan prai-
rie in winter resemble giant Frosted
Mini-Wheats. But these breakfast-
cereal-confection look-alikes are just part
of the appeal of driving a route that offers
a glimpse of First Nations and Mtis his-
tory, Francophone farming communities
and a national park, not to mention the Cross-country skiing at Elk Ridge Resort
experience of seeing the seemingly endless outside Prince Albert National Park.
prairiescape metamorphose into an entic-
ing playground of snow-laden grasslands,
rolling aspen parkland and boreal forest
dotted with frozen lakes. When Highway 225 meets Highway
Start your journey just outside 782, head east along the former route,
Saskatoon at Wanuskewin Heritage Park, making for the Francophone farming com-
a meeting place for First Nations people for munity of St. Isidore-de-Bellevue, where
more than 6,000 years. The parks enrich- you can sample a traditional meat pie at the PRINCE ALBERT
55 Crean
ing programming includes traditional TLC Cafe. Lake
Indigenous games, arts and crafts, exhibi- From there, its north on Highway 2 to Waskesiu Waskesiu Lake
tions and tipi construction. the city of Prince Albert, the gateway to Lake

Continuing north on Highway 11, a.k.a. Prince Albert National Park. Once inside NATIONAL PARK 263
Bodmin
the Louis Riel Trail, detour east onto the park, watch for wildlife (Narrows Road,
LEFT: AL HILLMAN/NIAGARA FALLS TOURISM; RIGHT: TOURISM SASKATCHEWAN/GREG HUSZAR PHOTOGRAPHY

Highway 312 at Rosthern and cross the on the western side of Waskesiu Lake, is a 2

Gabriel Dumont Bridge, which spans the prime spot for sightings) such as elk, fox
South Saskatchewan River, and enter the and otters. You might also see wildlife 55
240
Batoche region. Highway 225 will lead you while snowshoeing around the hamlet of Spruce Home
2
north to Batoche National Historic Site, Waskesiu Lakes beach area or cross-country Shell Lake 3

where a small force under the command skiing the groomed pathways along Fisher 12 Shellbrook Prince Albert
3
of Mtis leaders Riel and Dumont lost the Trail (loops of 7.2 and 8.4 kilometres) or S A S K AT C H E W A N
11
Battle of Batoche in 1885. Crean Lake (19 kilometres return). Birch Hills
If this all sounds a tad too placid for 782
2
you, then get a major adrenaline boost kite Blaine Batoche National
40 Historic Site 225
Lake St. Isidore-
skiing or kite boarding on Waskesiu Lake, de-Bellevue
n River

Hafford 225
Rosthern
where Saskatchewans notoriously fierce 312 Wakaw
41
DISTANCE 230 kilometres 12
e wa

winds will see you catch some serious air. Alvena

ch

DONT MISS Posing next to what has to

at

Before returning to Saskatoon, stop at

sk
Sa

11
be the ultimate Saskatchewan roadside
the Elk Ridge Resort (off Highway 264 and
h

Langham
ut

attraction: the giant stalk of wheat in Aberdeen

So

27
Rosthern, where highways 11 and 312 meet. just outside the parks boundary) for din- 16 Wanuskewin
Heritage Park 2
ner at the Fireside Dining Room and 41
SOUNDTRACK Keep warm with the Saskatoon Peterson
smooth sounds of Saskatoons very own Terrace, where the elk feature of the day 14 Asquith
5

The Sheepdogs. will give you all the fuel you need for the Elstow
Clavet
gorgeous drive ahead. 11
Plunkett
Jenn Smith-Nelson

C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 27
A roadside vista of Rocky Mountain peaks
rising above Waterton Lakes National
Parks namesake lake.

1
CALGARY
22

1
Black 24
Diamond
Turner Valley
High River
40 Longview
23
Bar U Ranch 2
National
CALGARY TO a new generation of western artists. Historic Site
A L B E R TA
WATERTON LAKES
22
Farther down the road, Canadian folk- Elkford Claresholm
music legend Ian Tyson lives in 520
23

ALBERTA Longview; its easy to see how the sur- Sparwood

Fort Macleod 3
3
Crowsnest
rounding landscape (including the Bar Pass Lundbreck
Lethbridge
WINTER IN ALBERTAS cowboy U Ranch National Historic Site, which 3
Pincher Creek
Fernie
country is an amalgam of snow- once hosted the Sundance Kid) inspired 6 5

dusted ranches and long views of the great songwriting. BRITISH WATERTON 2

Rockies, buried deep in powder. Highway
22, a.k.a. the Cowboy Trail, traces the east-
ern edge of the foothills through rolling,
open country. Compared with the prov-
inces iconic 232-kilometre Icefields
Parkway from Jasper to Banff, the road-trip
vibe from Calgary to Waterton Lakes is
intimate and off the beaten track with
far less traffic.
The 312-kilometre journey begins on
the Trans-Canada Highway, westbound
from Calgary. Exit south on Highway 22
and promptly dip into sprawling ranch
lands. The distinctly Prairie towns of
Turner Valley and Black Diamond owe
their existence to oil and coal, respec-
tively. Today, their broad, old-fashioned
main streets have been reinvigorated by
Highway 22 merges into Highway 3
and peels away from the Rockies to
Pincher Creek, where the winter Chinook
winds funnel through the Oldman and
Castle river valleys. A 60-kilometre drive
south on Highway 6 takes you into
Waterton Lakes National Parks labyrinth
of mountains. The so-called Crown of the
Continent makes an alpine connection
with Montanas Glacier National Park.
The quaint village of Waterton is the
gateway to a weekend of outdoor adven-
ture. Stay at Waterton Lakes Lodge
Resort, which offers free snowshoe and
ski rentals, and hit the scenic Akamina
Parkway, which affords access to two
cross-country ski trails.
Conor Mihell
LEFT: MARILEE CAHOON/CAN GEO PHOTO CLUB; RIGHT: ERICA ELLEFSEN/CAN GEO PHOTO CLUB
LAKES N.P. Cardston
COLUMBIA
CANADA
U.S.A.
GLACIER N.P.
M O N TA N A
DISTANCE 312 kilometres
DONT MISS Located near Waterton
village, Cameron Falls is the quintessential
Waterton Lakes photo op; its even better
when its sheathed in ice.
SOUNDTRACK Live at Longview by Ian
Tyson. Your journey through cowboy coun-
try wouldnt be complete without listening
to this classic live album.

28 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 BEST
WINTER DRIVES

Vancouver Islands Mount Washington, just

30 minutes from the village of Cumberland.

THE ISLAND
ROUTES
VANCOUVER
ISLAND, BRITISH
COLUMBIA
DRIVING THE EAST COAST of
Vancouver Island from Nanaimo to
Port Hardy on Highways 19 and 19A can
take just four hours. But whats the rush in
the off-season, when heritage hamlets,
locavore gems and surf-battered beaches
beckon in Canadas mildest winter region?
Nanaimo
Begin your journey in the islands har-
bourfront second city, where the book-
stores, coffee shops, music stores and art
galleries lining Commercial Street invite
leisurely exploration.
Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park
The 19A passes small communities and
Salish Sea bays. Stop at Rathtrevors
driftwood-studded sands for beachcomb-
ing and skedaddling sea otter sightings.
Morningstar Farm, Parksville
Sidestep from the highway to visit this
farm, home to the Little Qualicum
Cheeseworks. They serve up generous
samples (try the Bleu Claire) and also sell
delectable, velvety blackberry wine from
the on-site Mooberry Winery.
Cumberland
If you prefer beer over blackberry wine,
stop in at the Cumberland Brewing
Company for a pint. The old villages hip
storefronts invite further perusal, but
skiing at Mount Washington is just 30
minutes away.
Telegraph Cove
Drive past Campbell River and detour via
Beaver Cove Road to reach this scene-
stealing charmer, where the brightly
painted old buildings present the perfect
photo op.
Alert Bay
Save your memory card for equally
beguiling Alert Bay, a short ferry ride
away from Port McNeill. Its boardwalk
shacks and striking totems are joined by
bald eagles whirling overhead.
Port Hardy
Explore the norths main town, then
make for Cape Scott Provincial Park. Its
forest-fringed San Josef Bay beach is a
dramatic, wave-whipped reminder of the
raw beauty of winter travel.
John Lee

Cape Scott
Provincial Park Port Hardy

BRITISH
Port McNeill
DISTANCE 155 kilometres from
19
Nanaimo to Campbell River, 230 from
COLUMBIA
VA

Campbell River to Port Hardy

N

DONT MISS Alert Bay, a mist-shrouded

CO

Campbell River
waterfront village studded with incredible
U

8 Powell River 99
V

R
E

2
19 101 photo opportunities.
Courtenay Squamish
PACIFIC SOUNDTRACK The albums Mememe
IS Cumberland
LA 101
or Dream Water Rain Music, both by
OCEAN ND 19A
Rathtrevor Beach Corwin Fox, a roots-folk singer-songwriter
Parksville Provincial Park
19
who lives in Cumberland, B.C.
0 60 km Port Alberni VANCOUVER
4 Nanaimo
Tofino

C A N A D I A N G E O G R A P H I C T R AV E L 29
 A view from the Alaska Highway, which runs
northwest from Fort Nelson, B.C., to Alaska.

Wrigley

Pelly Crossing NTS'IHCH'OH NATIONAL

PARK RESERVE
2 6
Beaver Creek 1
NORTHWEST
Faro
4
A
U.S.A.

Carmacks Fort Simpson

CANAD

Ross River NAHANNI NATIONAL

1
2
PARK RESERVE
4
SA 10 7
IN 6
T
KLUANE Y U K O N
NATIONAL PARK Haines WHITEHORSE TERRITORIES
Junction 4
1 Fort Liard
EL

2
IA

Teslin
ALASKA HIGHWAY
S

7 1 Watson Lake
MO

3 2
UN

NORTHERN BRITISH Yakutat LIARD HOT SPRINGS 77

Atlin PROVINCIAL PARK
TAI

BRITISH 37
NS

Haines Fort
COLUMBIA, YUKON, PACIFIC
COLUMBIA
97 Nelson

OCEAN A L A S K A
ALASKA JUNEAU Dease Lake
0 150 km

THE BEST REASON to travel the
Alaska Highway in winter is the
fact that few people do. Other than the
occasional transport truck lugging fresh
milk and vegetables to the Yukon and
Alaska, or locals commuting between
towns, traffic is sparse on this road from
December through March, unless you
count the moose. Gone are the oversized
RVs that trawl the highway from Fort
Nelson to Beaver Creek all summer.
Closed are the tourist traps selling over-
priced cinnamon buns along the way.
dark perdition for good reason: we dont Winter might be the off-season on the
want company. Its nothing personal! And Alaska Highway, and that makes it all the
if you do come to northern British better for a road trip. Just promise youll
Columbia, Yukon or Alaska, rest assured tell everyone how frigid and desolate a
that northerners are a welcoming bunch, drive it was when you return home.
whatever the season. We just selfishly pre- Kate Harris
fer the Liard Hot Springs to ourselves on a
30 C night, when steam rising into the
sky seems the source of the aurora borea- DISTANCE 1,395 kilometres
lis. Wed rather not elbow through crowds DONT MISS Detouring off the Alaska
in Kluane National Park to watch herds of Highway for a hundred spectacular kilo-
white-wooled Dall sheep blend into the metres to Atlin, B.C., a quirky, artistic out-
post on the edge of the Juneau Icefield.
snow, leaving only their dark curled horns
ANTON ROGOZIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

Whats left is a world of wind, ice, spruce,
and stars so many youll suspect youve
detoured into the Milky Way.
Ill let you in on a secret. Those who live
in the North generally dont dissuade peo-
ple of the notion that winter here is a cold
visible on the slopes, like parings of wood SOUNDTRACK Yukon-born Declan
ODonovans latest album, Broken Sky,
adrift on the wind. We want to watch the
features piano-driven music as moody,
low-angled sun throw gorgeous amber lyrical and expansive as the land in which
light over the Saint Elias Mountains, the this singer-songwriter was raised.
highest range in Canada, in a silence so
total you can hear time itself crack.

30 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 All maps tell stories,
and our Giant

great
big
Floor Maps tell

stories

9 WORD ON
Word on the THE STRE
Street card ET

OUTBURST
SHOW DATE
FEATURED
PROVINCE
SEGMENT (S)/TERRIT
QUESTION ORY(IES)
PART A: THIS
ISSUE AFFE
CTS
region*
province(s
)/territory(
*Canadas ies)
5 regions: Canada
The North Other Coun
tries/Orga
Yukon, North nizations
The Prairies west Territ
Alberta, ories, Nuna
The Atlantic Saskatchew
Newfound an, Manitoba vut
land and Labra West Coast
dor, Prince British Colum
PART B: STRE Edward Island Centr
(Note: ethno ETERS , Nova Scoti al Ontario, bia
cultural, lingui a, New Brunswick Queb ec
stic, or region
al ideas may
not always

Learning
summarize be represented
different opini in every street
ons, ideas er)
, viewpoints
city name E = ethnocultu
L = linguistic ral
R = regional
UX
DRAPEA

materials included
OLES ET
S | SYMB
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PART C: WHO
COULD/S SYMBOLds | Fiche de symbol
GROUPS
represented/
HOULD DO
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WHA car

NINE GIANT FLOOR MAPS

mentioned
in the segment ROLES & RESP
CITIZENS
represented/ ONSIBILITIES
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INSTITUT segment
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GOVERNM
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municipal,
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PART D: YOU
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edge you had SEGMENT DURING THE

ideas you
already had about the issue SEGMENT
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ideas conflic reinforced AFTER THE
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2017-09-12

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2017-09-12
11:27 AM

new Energy Production

Polar Knowledge Canada and Transmission

featured Arctic Alive Drawn to Victory

Route 338:
Mapping Democracy Wild Migrations Canada: A Reference Map

Canada from Space Vimy Ridge

A humpback whale breaches close to a Zodiac
(this image), while gentoo penguins gather on a
cliff on Antarcticas Danco Island (opposite).

34 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 A N TA R C T I C A

A
NTARCTICA HAS A WAY OF making you ask, in
awe, How are we here? but also sometimes,
Should we be here? It frequently reminds you
that, unlike the oversized mammals and teeming bird colo-
nies that thrive in its ice-clogged waters and on its barren
ARGENTINA
0 250 km

shores, if you had to try, you wouldnt survive very long.

Falkland
Ensuring that you do, fortunately, is the domain of cruise Islands
companies such as One Ocean Expeditions. On its 12-day CHILE
Ultimate Antarctica cruise in February 2017, Canadian
Geographic creative director Javier Frutos and 80 other polar
voyagers explored the straits and bays of the northern Antarctic
Peninsula, the icy Weddell Sea and Elephant Island, and tra-
versed stormy Drake Passage to the Falkland Islands on the Drake
Enlarged
ice-strengthened ship Akademik Sergey Vavilov. Frutos captured area
the amazing images in this photo essay during the trip. Passage

After days defined by a seemingly endless parade of killer, Elephant

humpback and minke whales, fur seals, leopard seals and Island

myriad penguins, terns and other seabirds throughout the

peninsula, the Vavilov probed the Weddell Sea. Thick with tabu- Antarctica
lar icebergs the shape and size of football fields carved from
Antarctic ice shelves, the Weddell is thought to contain the
clearest waters of any sea in the world (a visibility of nearly 80 ca

ti
metres was recorded in the 1980s). That clarity is a boon to We d d e l l

rc
ta
those on the lookout for marine mammals. And its on the seas Sea

An
coast that some passengers took the opportunity to sleep out
on the ice, digging long, shallow holes to fit themselves and
their sleeping bags before falling asleep to the creaking of ice
floes and icebergs cracking and calving in the distance. At last, however, Vavilov emerged near the terra firma of
As famed polar explorer Ernest Shackleton and his men the Falkland Islands specifically the sandy neck of north-
could attest having lost their ship Endurance to Weddell ice westerly Saunders Island. After swirling storms, a golden
in 1916 and sheltering on windswept Elephant Island for sunrise hike along coastlines crowded with Magellanic, gen-
months storms materialize here with little notice. After too, king and southern rockhopper penguins felt to passen-
visiting the explorers historic makeshift refuge, Vavilov gers a bit like the proverbial other side.
turned north into a building grey, and for four days and nights
negotiated the famously rough Drake Passage. Despite the
fact that its more than 800 kilometres wide, its still the nar-
rowest stretch of water between Antarctica and any other
continent. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current barrels through
the passage unhindered, from Pacific to Atlantic, as it encir-
cles the southernmost continent, whipping up heavy winds,
sudden squalls and heaving swells.

CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 35
Clockwise from top left: One Ocean Voyager encountered
wind gusts near 70 knots and 10-metre waves while crossing
the Drake Passage; humpack whales feast on krill at Fournier
Bay; sunrise at Rong Island; gentoo pengiuns bask at dawn
on Saunders Island in the Falkland Islands.

Javier Frutos (@Javiers_wonderplanet) is Canadian Geographic

Travels creative director. Nick Walker (@CanGeoNick) is the maga-
zines managing editor.

36 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

A N TA R C T I C A

CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 37
A N TA R C T I C A

Clockwise from top: Sunrise on Saunders Island;

an albatross chick being fed on a cliff at Saunders;
One Ocean Expeditions Akademik Sergey Vavilov
anchored near Antarcticas Danco Island; a Weddell
seal rests on an iceberg in Antarcticas Wilhelmina Bay.

Watch a video slideshow of more of Canadian

Geographic Travel creative director Javier Frutoss amaz-
ing Antarctic images at cangeo.ca/nov17/antarctica.

38 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018

 How does
YOUR
energy use
STACK UP?
...Or would it be
Is it enough
barely enough
to POWER a
to LAUNCH a
space bottle
mission? rocket?

TAKE OUR QUICK SURVEY to nd out approximately how much energy

you use in a year and learn a few interesting facts along the way.

energyiq.canadiangeographic.ca/learning_centre/Survey
40 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018
MAKING
TRACKS
in Mauricie
Experiencing the authentic
winter heart of Quebec, where
the snow sets the pace
BY ALEXANDRA POPE

Snowmobilers make the most

of fresh powder on trails near
the Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc resort
in Quebecs Mauricie region.

CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 41
SLUG TK
T
THE SNOWMOBILE is stuck in the snow.
Ive arrived at the Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc, a rustic resort
village in Quebecs Mauricie region, about two hours northeast
of Montreal, during one of those Jekyll-and-Hyde weeks of late
winter 5 C and rain one day, -11 C and bluebird skies the
next and the weight of the 12-seat Bombardier snowmobile
Im a passenger on has proven too much for the increasingly
unstable snowpack. Built in 1942 to haul military personnel
and equipment, it doesnt exactly turn on a dime, and the right
ski is firmly embedded in a soft rut of snow at the side of the
winding wooded trail.
Guide Pierre Thibault shifts between drive and reverse in
a futile attempt to regain traction, but the rut only deepens.
Finally, he radios back to the chalet for help, and as we wait
for rescue, I cant help but think that in a region that
bills itself as authentic Quebec, it doesnt get more real
than this.
After all, it was the vagaries of Quebecs winter weather that
motivated Joseph-Armand Bombardier to perfect his invention.
His young son died of an acute infection in the winter of 1934
because the family could not reach the hospital in time. When
he brought his seven-seat snowmobile to market three years
later, the first buyers were doctors, ambulance drivers and
priests serving rural areas.
The Pourvoiries later model, a B12, is more of a curiosity
than a practical means of winter transportation these days.
Guests can book a half-hour interpretive tour in the snow-
mobile, which moves with all the grace of an Abrams tank, with
42 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018
Thibault, who is well versed in the history of the local fur trade
and Franco-Indigenous relations.
But parked on the frozen shore of Lac Blanc in front of the
chalet are dozens of the B12s modern descendants. Some of
the snowmobiles are rentals belonging to the resort, but many
PREVIOUS SPREAD: T. MAURICIE-M. JULIEN. THIS SPREAD, LEFT: MAURICIE-O. CROTEAU; RIGHT: AUBERGE DU LAC TAUREAU;
belong to guests. And not all of those guests are out-of-towners
staying overnight in the Pourvoiries private lakeside cottages;
some are locals from nearby Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, warming
up with a bowl of chowder after a days ride or a meal of
fresh-caught speckled trout.
Here, its completely acceptable to wear your snow pants and
boots to dine. The television in the bar plays extreme snow-
mobiling videos on a loop. The Wi-Fi is unreliable (perhaps by
design). Everything is geared toward inspiring visitors to take
full advantage of the few short weeks from January to March
when Mauricies 17,500 lakes become navigable by ski, snow-
shoe, sled and snowmobile.
THIS SPARSELY POPULATED, 35,000-square-kilometre area
MAP: CHRIS BRACKLEY/CAN GEO
of forested hills dotted with lakes and bisected by the Saint-
Maurice River was once prime pulp and paper territory. As I sit
in the bar sipping blonde ale brewed locally in Saint-Alexis,
Gaston Pellerin, owner of the Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc, tells me
of his unlikely career trajectory from lumberjack to broker of
authentic Qubcois experiences.
 MAURICIE

Like his father and grandfather before him, Pellerin started Road 0 25 km
working in the forestry sector as a teenager, but when an indus- Snowmobiling trails
Trans-Quebec
try downturn in the early 1990s left him out of work at the age Regional
of 37, he went to his father with an ambitious plan to transform Local
La Mauricie
National Park
the familys 2,000-hectare lakeside property into an all-season Auberge du
vacation resort. Lac Taureau

It was a radical proposition at the time. Mauricie was not

exactly known as a tourism magnet, although it did have a
certain cachet among wealthy Americans who came north in Shawinigan

the summer to fish and hunt. In fact, pourvoirie means outfitter; Saint-Alexis-
des-Monts
today there are 51 in the Mauricie region alone, offering wildlife QUEBEC Pourvoirie
encounters in varying degrees of luxury. du Lac Blanc
Enlarged TROIS-
When we started, it was difficult, Pellerin admits. area RIVIRES

Investors were skeptical; a wilderness experience in deep

Quebec in the winter can be a hard sell at home given the
number of Canadians who would like to see Turks and Caicos
become the 11th province. But Pellerin soon realized there
was a market that had perhaps read Voltaires snide evaluation
of Canada as a few acres of snow and thought that actually
sounded quite lovely.
Today, group tourism from Europe, in particular France and
Belgium, is such a pillar of his business that Pellerin recom-
mends booking a winter stay at the Pourvoirie up to four
Alexandra Pope (@XelaEpop) is Canadian Geographic Travels
digital editor.
Snowmobiling (opposite top) is a popular activity in Mauricie
and neighbouring Lanaudiere, where accommodations include the
Auberge du Lac Taureau (above).
months in advance. Americans, too, have continued to come
north for winter fun, along with weekenders from Montreal
and the odd celebrity. (The Canadiens Carey Price was here
last week to fish! Pellerin says excitedly.)
Infrastructure in the area has since caught up to demand;
Mauricie and neighbouring Lanaudire region boast some
4,800 kilometres of groomed trails for snowmobiling, and most
inns and pourvoiries in the region offer snowmobile rentals
and guided experiences.

CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 43
 THE LOG BUILDINGS of the Auberge du Lac Taureau glow
invitingly in the dusk, and the eponymous lakes snow-covered
surface is criss-crossed by snowmobile tracks. Like the
Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc, the Auberge du Lac Taureau is both a
snowmobiling hot spot and an entrepreneurial success story.
Owner Stphane Lord purchased the property with its rustic
inn at the southwestern end of the lake at Saint-Michel-des-
Saints in 2015. At the time, it was bankrupt, and had been for
sale for nearly three years. Under the stewardship of Lord and
business partner Bernard Hamel, its been transformed into a
sophisticated, family-friendly retreat.
It offers fine dining, a pool and spa, and a common room
with a jaw-dropping timbered cathedral ceiling, conveniently
located next to the bar so you can curl up by the wood stove
with a coffee spiked with maple whisky and play a board
game, read or just watch the snow fall outside the floor-to-
ceiling windows.
The auberge also offers a full roster of outdoor activities
including snowshoeing, dogsledding, interpretive walks, ice
fishing, and, of course, snowmobiling.

THIS PAGE, TOP: ALEXANDRA POPE/CAN GEO; BOTTOM: AUBERGE DU LAC TAUREAU.
OPPOSITE PAGE: T. MAURICIE-O. CROTEAU

44 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018


Clockwise from bottom left: Kids play hockey on the frozen
pond in front of Auberge du Lac Taureau; an ice-fishing guide at
Pourvoirie du Lac Blanc prepares a fresh catch; the Pourvoirie
du Lac Blanc auberge.
So it is that a couple of days after the misadventure in the
12-seat B12, its time for me to try driving a snowmobile myself.
My ride is a two-seater Ski-Doo Grand Touring 600 ACE, which,
if youre not well versed in snowmobile makes and models, loosely
translates to sporty but comfortable for long distances.
As I prepare to set out, the sky is various shades of lavender,
threatening rain or snow, or most likely both. I feel stiff and
overdressed in my heavy rented coveralls and padded vinyl wind-
breaker, but my guide assures me that once were moving, Ill be
glad for the protection. After a quick overview of the controls
ignition, brake, accelerator, kill switch its time to head out.
At first, Im so focused on controlling the machine, the
beauty of the surrounding winter landscape barely registers.
Memories of teenage driving lessons surface as I first accelerate
too hard, then panic-brake when I feel the skis wobble on the
uneven surface. The speedometer says Im travelling at a sedate
30 kilometres per hour, but my senses, unaccustomed to this
roofless, windowless anarchy, insist I must be doing at least 90.
MAURICIE
After about half a kilometre, we double back to the resort
and join up with a groomed trail that takes us along the west-
ern shore of the lake, through a monochrome landscape of
snow and dripping trees and the occasional rock face dangling
icicles. The ride is smoother here, and I start to relax, follow-
ing the yellow sweep of my headlights through the late after-
noon gloom. I push up the visor on my helmet and breathe
the mild air, which tonight contains just a hint of spring. I
know that all too soon, the guide will pull over and instruct
me to turn around, but while the daylight lasts, I see no rea-
son not to keep going.
Watch a video of a scenic flight over Quebecs snowbound Mauricie region
at cangeo.ca/nov17/mauricie.
CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 45
TENBEST
Ice fishing faves
Long-time Outdoor Canada magazine fishing editor
Gord Pyzer shares the best spots to experience
the nations amazing ice-fishing opportunities
C ANADAS TWO million freshwater
lakes cover almost eight per cent of
the country, and winter is the ideal time
to take advantage of the bounty on our
doorsteps. Here are the 10 best places in
Canada to drop a line through the ice.
Lake Memphremagog, Que. Nestled in
the picturesque rolling countryside of
Quebecs Eastern Townships, the
42-kilometre-long Memphremagog offers
ice anglers a range of species, including
brown and rainbow trout, landlocked
salmon, pike and perch from around
Christmas until the end of March. There
are several good access points around the
lake for the do-it-yourselfers, or rental ice
huts are available in the city of Magog.
Lake Simcoe, Ont. Just a short drive north
of Toronto, Simcoe is arguably the most
famous ice fishery in the world and offers
a variety of opportunities for newcomers
and veterans alike. First-timers can take
advantage of the inexpensive, all-inclusive
commercial ice-hut operations and get
driven to the heated shelter, then shown
everything they need to know to start catch-
ing yellow perch, whitefish and lake trout.
Lake Nipissing, Ont. You can rough it in
style on northeastern Ontarios Lake
Nipissing by renting a four- or six-person
ice bungalow right on top of one of the
lake's best ice-fishing locations. The por-
table chalets are insulated, heated and
include bunk beds, table and chairs, sink,
stove, lights and a barbecue. Just step out
the door and catch dinner.
Lake Superior, Ont. The biggest fresh-
water lake in the world is also one of the
best ice fisheries, especially around the
city of Thunder Bay and the town of
46 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC TRAVEL WINTER 2017-2018
Nipigon. Thunder Bay is home to spec-
tacular lake trout fishing, while much
shallower Black Bay offers superb oppor-
tunities to catch yellow perch. Being so
close to a city also means you can fish
during the day and enjoy fine dining and
accommodation in the evening the
best of both worlds.
Lake of the Woods, Ont. Northwestern
Ontarios Lake of the Woods is a
400,000-hectare-plus winter wonderland,
with 14,000 pine- and spruce-studded
islands and more than 100,000 kilometres
of shoreline. The federal government hires
contractors each winter to maintain a multi-
lane winter road system on the lake that lets
First Nation communities in the southern
portion drive to Kenora in the north.
Cottagers and outdoor enthusiasts subse-
quently plow secondary roads off the main
system to access additional parts of the lake,
providing seasoned anglers with easy
access to excellent wilderness fishing for
walleye (ABOVE), pike and lake trout.
Lake Winnipeg and the Red River, Man.
Lake Winnipeg and the Red River offer
convenient access to some of the finest
walleye fishing on Earth. Because its so
big Winnipeg is the third largest lake
entirely in Canada hundreds of thou-
sands of hefty walleye migrate in the fall
to the southern end and gather around the
mouth of the Red River. The action gets
underway around Christmas on the river
itself, and by New Year's its booming on
the lake.
Lake Athapapuskow, Man. Check
Manitobas annual Master Angler
Awards program (which officially records
trophy-sized fish) and one location pops
up repeatedly: Athapapuskow. Located
just south of Flin Flon, 20,000-hectare
Athapap offers quality lodge accom-
modation in the wintertime a rarity
across much of the northland. And you
may hook a new world-record trout;
Athapapuskow was home to a previous
64-pound, record-book giant.
Tobin Lake, Sask. Tobin Lake is one of
the premier walleye fisheries in the
nation its where a world ice-fishing
record walleye of 18.3 pounds was caught
in 2005 but come February and
March, huge northern pike stretching
more than four feet long and weighing
more than 30 pounds steal the scene.
Last Mountain Lake, Sask. Forty kilo-
metres northwest of Regina, Last
Mountain Lake is the largest natural lake
in southern Saskatchewan and a popular
destination for those looking to catch
walleye, whitefish, northern pike and
yellow perch. But the lake is also home
to a burgeoning burbot population.
These freshwater cod are voracious pred-
ators and extremely active under the ice.
Most people catch this fish, which looks
like a cross between a catfish and an eel,
by happy accident.
Cold Lake, Alta. Its fitting that Cold Lake
is home to one of the Canadian Forces
bases housing the countrys fleet of
CF-18s because the trout in the lake that
lends its name to the city and base behave
like fighter jets, swooping across sonar
screens, chasing after lures and attacking
them with vengeance. It adds up to easy
and exciting winter angling.
Did we miss your favourite ice-fishing destina-
GORD PYZER
tion? Let us know on (@CanGeo) or
(fb.com/cangeo).
Thick-billed Murres (Guillemots) diving offshore Nunavut

TALLURUTIUP IMANGA
What is Talluruptiup Imanga?
In the future, it will be Canadas largest marine conservation area, located offshore Nunavut.
Working together has sustained people of the North for generations. The designation of this
diverse marine area is a testament to that spirit of collaboration.
Today we congratulate the Qikiqtani Inuit Association, the Governments of Canada and Nunavut,
and all organizations that contributed to the recently announced final boundary agreement for
the area. Shells contribution of 860,000 hectares of offshore rights to the Nature Conservancy
of Canada last year helped enable conservation of this wider marine protected area.

Explore more: www.shell.ca/conservation

 A few hundred kilometres
to see a few billion light years.
Seems like a fair trade.
The new 2018 Subaru Outback has what you need to get where
youre going. With Symmetrical Full-Time All-Wheel Drive, car-like
handling, loads of cargo space, and the ground clearance of an SUV,
you could say the skys the limit. SubaruDarkSky.ca

Vehicle shown solely for purposes of illustration, and may not be equipped exactly as shown. Navigation system is only available on select trim levels. See Subaru.ca for more details.