Formulating

Clear Conditioning
Shampoo

US PATENT No. 7,101,538

Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

Asian Hair Care:

Evolving market, with 2-in-1 still the preferred form
Clear, conditioning, silicone-free formulations
Cost/benefit important for new consumer class
Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

High-End Hair Care

Focus on safety and sustainability,
yet maintaining performance
Consumers attracted to silicone-free, sulfate-free
and quat-free claims
Other Requirements of Formulators

Globally approved ingredients

Cost targets
Ease-of-use ingredients
Compatibility with surfactants
Ecological standards (sustainability, biodegradability)
Typical Formulation

Function % (w/w)

Cleansing and Foaming

10.0 30.0
Primary & Secondary Surfactants

Texture and Sensorial Feel

0.1 - 6.0
Pearlescence Wax, Thickeners & Effect Pigments

Conditioning Agents
Cationic Additives, Oils, Polyquats, 0.1 - 5.0
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Auxiliaries
1.0 - 3.0
Perfumes, Claim Actives
Microbiological Stability
0.7 - 1.2
Preservatives

Water Q.S. to 100.0

Desirable Claims and Functions

Superior conditioning
Increased shine and softness
Improved sensorial experience during application
Broad compatibility
Mild and biodegradable
Silicone-Free claims
Novel Active Polymer

INCI
Polyester-11
Unique Chemical Structure
polyesteramine

Patented
Market examples
Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

Conditioning Effect
Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling
Sensory Assessment during Application
Lathering and Slip
Foaming Degree and Stability
Effect on Dry Hair
Softness and Shine
Manageability and Volume
Build-up
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

#624-091 #624-090
Phase Ingredient (INCI)
% (w/w) % (w/w)

Deionized Water 68.22 68.72

A
Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50 0.50

SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86

B
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67

C Citric Acid (25%) Q.S. Q.S.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50

D
Polyester-11 0.50 0

E Preservative 1.00 1.00

F NaCl Salt 2.25 2.25

Total 100.0
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Sensory Assessment: During Application

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

Distribution
2

0
Polyester-11 improved overall
sensory experience after
Slip
-1
Flash Foam application.

-2

Foam Stability Foam Volume

 Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Control had no conditioning attributes.

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark*

Polyester-11 improved overall
conditioning performance.
30

25

20
% Force Reduction

15

10

0
Wet Combing Wet Detangling Dry Combing Dry Detangling

* Chosen Benchmark is leading silicone-free China market brand for 2-in-1 shampoos.
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

Sensory Assessment: Dry Hair

0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

Silkiness
2

Overall Appearance Moisturization

0 Polyester-11 improved overall
sensory experience during
-1
application.
-2

Manageability Shine

Volume
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

SEM of Tress Treated With Test Formulation vs. Control

Treated Tress Control

Polyester-11 tress had cuticles with flatter scales. This reduces friction when combing and holds in
moisture for improved hair strength.
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

A B C
Phase Ingredient (INCI)
% (w/w) %(w/w) %(w/w)

Deionized Water 68.52 68.52 68.52

A
Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.25 0.25 0.25
SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86 7.86
B
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67 16.67
C Citric Acid (10%) Q.S Q.S Q.S
Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50 3.50
Polyester-11 0.20 - -
D
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - 0.20 -
Polyquaternium-10 - - 0.20
E Preservative 1.00 1.00 1.00
F NaCl Salt 2.00 2.00 2.00
Total 100.0
Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Polyester-11 is
significantly clear
compared to formulations
containing commonly used
conditioning agents.
 Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Conditioning Assessment Wet Hair

Polyester-11 provided a
0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10
comparable conditioning effect
on wet hair compared to current
30 popular conditioning actives.

25
% Force Reduction

20

15

10

0
Wet Combing Wet Detangling
 Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

Sensory Assessment Dry Hair

0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10

Polyester-11 surpassed Guar
and PQ-10 in softness, shine
and overall appearance of dry
1.20
cleansed hair.
Sensory Assessment

0.80

0.40

0.00
Softness Shine Overall Appearance
Silicone-Free Shampoo (#624-118F) - build up evaluation
Phase Ingredient (INCI) (w/w)%
67.72
A
Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50
SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86
B
SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67
C Q.S.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 Silicone-free
2.00
shampoo with
D Polyester-11
Glycol Distearate 1.00
1.00
Polyester-11 0.50
E Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20
Polyquaternium-10 0.15
Sodium Xylenesulfonate 1.50
F
Neopentylglycol Diheptanoate (and) Isododecane 1.00
G Preservative 1.00
H NaCl Salt 2.20
Total 100.00

1INOLEX 2Tri-K 3Ashland 4Solvay Novecare 5Stepan 6AkzoNobel

Silicone-Free Shampoo (#624-118F) - build up evaluation

Build-up Evaluation

1 Wash w/0.5% Polyester-11 5 Washes w/0.5% Polyester-11

Silicone-free formulations with
Polyester-11 had no build-up
on hair after repeat application.
Color Index Change of Washed Hair

1.00
0.90 Instrumentation
0.80 Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300 with Data
0.70
Procedure
0.60 0.46
Immerse shampooed tresses into 200ml of
0.50 0.38 0.1% solution of red 80 Dye for 60 seconds
0.40 Take out tresses from solution and remove
0.30 excess dye with #2 and #3 fingers
Rinse the dyed hair in 300ml DI-water for
0.20
10 seconds
0.10 Hang hair tresses to dry overnight
0.00 Read color index
dE
Sulfate-Free and Silicone-Free Clear Conditioning Shampoo (#638-120)

INGREDIENTS (INCI Name) %w/w

A Deionized Water 48.17 Superior Performance
Decyl Glucoside 11.00
B Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 11.00 Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 13.00 Lathering and Slip
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.00 Foaming Degree and Stability
C
PEG-150 Distearate 3.00 Softness and Shine
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00 Manageability and Volume
Polyester-11 0.33 Build-up
D
Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 0.67
Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol 1.50
E Fragrance 0.33

Total 100.00
Formulating Tips

1. Choosing the right thickener.

2. Use polyesteramine as a conditioning agent,
either alone, or combined used with Guar,
polyquats, etc. for the optimizing effect.
3. When using oils or essential oils, mix well
with polyesteramine before adding into the
surfactant mixture.
4. Polyesteramine will also help to bring fragrance
into the formulation with improved clarity.
5. Adjust the salt level after adding polyesteramine
to optimize the viscosity of SLES/SLS or
ALES/ALS system.
6. Suggested use level of 0.1~2% for clear
conditioning shampoo.
Summary: New Technology, Feel and Performance

Polyesteramine:
Superb performance in clear shampoos.
Superior anti-static and combability performance.
Benefits evident even at low active (0.2%) levels.
Synergistic effects with other conditioning agents.
Improves the performance of economy formulas.
Easy to incorporate.
Use level: 0.2 2%.

Patented