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  • Crumbs Cotswolds December 2017

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    Crumbs Cotswolds December 2017

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    Crumbs Cotswolds December 2017

    Droits d'auteur :

    © All Rights Reserved
    Téléchargez comme PDF ou lisez en ligne sur Scribd
    Signaler comme contenu inapproprié
    7 vues68 pages

    Crumbs Cotswolds December 2017

    Transféré par

    chocobrownie
    Crumbs Cotswolds December 2017

    Droits d'auteur :

    © All Rights Reserved
    Téléchargez comme PDF ou lisez en ligne sur Scribd
    Signaler comme contenu inapproprié
    sur 68
    ik OUR ULTIMATE Ww AP SS Se UP! A? ft \ ’ 7 REVIEWED! HELEN BROWNING’S ROYAL OAK THALI WHITE HART ~ ELEMENTINES UNWRAPPED EL THE BURN: ALL FIRED UP INSIDE! edhe - | COCKTAILS AND (- rate CAINAPES FoR THE FESTIVE FASONS. WITH THE PYROMANIAG CHEF ee) ee PIZARRO BRINGS CATALONIA TO CHELT! ENHAM A season of celebration See in the New Year at De Vere Cotswold Water Park, with fantastic food and great entertainment Party Night including a on, a five course dinner and dis. from only £99.00 per DE VERE MY DARLING CLEMENTINE ‘Theve area few theories about how clementines became so synonymous with Christmas. One fs that when tes were tough fresh rut wes real lxury 0 finding a bright. shiny cementine in the toe of your Christmas stocking was a genuine weet. (The historic equivalent ofa games console, you vil) “Another theory rather mare whimsical, ancy personal favourtte = goes back yet further, to before Saint Nichola had been given his sainthood and was stila mere bishop. The story goes that he heard of ' poor shopkeeper wh couldn't find sutors for his three daughters, because hehhad no dowry to oiler Sorich ish Nik travelled tothe house and tossed three bags of gold down the chimney (or, some say, through the window) for each ofthe dowries. which landed in the girs stockings. (Handly, they jst happened tobe hanging bythe fre to {ry) The clementines that modem chien often fin lurking atthe lend oftheir Christmas stockings ae sai to represent that very gold ‘Whatever the origins ofthe Crimbababy oranges connection, this ruithas another important purpose: cheering usual Few things ‘areas sunehine-y, and clementines can prove amuch-needed ‘onic during the dull winter months ~ especially when, as temperatures drop the temptation sto turn to comfort food ‘and All The. Cares, That they're wonderfully easy to eatisjusta bonus. A sharp thumbnail isallittakes to peel away the wrapping torevea those sweet, juicy segments. An orange can be aright fai eat buta clementine is a doddle: nature's Babybel Enjoy your Christmas clementines, and your new tesue of Crumbs! Yume. [Emma Dance Eitorenmadancesmedinclashco uk H~ OG DEE GLOSET@© TELE ey rf Cara Chips Every Tuesday - fish and chips for 2 and a bottle of wine for £30 Steaks Ermer mets ac and a bottle of wine for £35 Sirloin steak for 2 ERR Rem TIC 0) www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk ah s9 eer ‘Rit bllbyameciotsan case DANIELLE MORRIS SANE INGHAM Jineingnomamediactasn cok Sreoinghorsmedaceshcouk ‘Modiaclash. ‘rs e700 Table o NO.61 DECEMBER 2017 STARTERS 8 HERO INGREDIENT (Oh Clementine, we love youso! 46 TRIO Three top wine merchants to help select your perfec tipple CHEF! ‘THE REGION'S TOP KITCHENS 22 Earl Grey and gin cured salmon, by Roger Williams 24 Roast pigeon and cherry sauce, by Tom Kitchin 26 Garam masala Christmas pudding, by Vivek Singh 2B Milk chocolate and hhazeinut praline Bache de Noa by Edd Kimber 30 Whole baked hemtage "squash, by Daylesford f Contents ADDITIONAL RECIPES 40 Cod with beetroots, ‘walnuts and clementines, by Nick Deverell-Smith 48 Octopus with smashed potatoes, olive cil and piso, by Nuno Mendes 39 Baked apples and marshmallows, by Kathryn Minchew KITCHEN ARMOURY 35 SUPPER CLUB ‘The Pyromaniac Chefrealy turns up the heat| 5 crumasmaccom i 1 THE GIFT GUIDE is year's Christmas shopping, totaly sorted MAINS ‘48 PARTY FODDER Festive cocktails and canapés 54 GRILLED Jose Pizarro spill the beans AFTERS NEW & NOTABLE RESTAURANTS, Cares, BaRs ‘60 Helen Browning's Royal Oak 62 Thali 64 The White Hart pws ’ ‘G6LITTLE BLACK BOOK ‘Graham Dodridge shares his ave hang outs T CRICKLADE CLUB KITCHEN CRAFT BAR VENUE Sate ENE! UB GUIDE 2018 tap MR HANBURY’S STARTERS INNA) CAL aw Ue PURER WU Lolo ad ety Sn ey eek eb eornuee trea td ee ee Peete ates Leen nna See ee eee Cnr ee ee eel ee etn eed porate cet aed Reena Ca eer) eee eer Pe ocnins ecicss Paes) eee ead Poe eras Bu eee) a ee as ee ee ete Bt farmers, wth occasional ndulgences a= wel Se oe charming and informal atmosphere where we can ees ~ fandnew ones, too!" a= ey SLAP-BANG IN THE MIDDLE of aseason of heavy, hearty crops indark greens, dety whites and assorted mousey browns ~all those swedes and parsnips, sprouts and kale comes ctrussplash of sunshine. We eat oranges and their various spin-off all year around ‘of course, bur the traditional season for most of them saround CCristmas and January where they adda welcome zingto the sreengrocersshelves. We're not talking bg: standard oranges this time around, however, bu rather everyone’ frvourite alternative, che clementine —smaller, ous, This thing’ actualy a hybrid, apparently discovered jue dl inthe early years ofthe 20th century by one Father Clement Rogier ~ who the ruts named for ~in the garden of his orphanage in Algeria Itssaid ro bea cross berweena tangerine and an orange an ike the angering ill andeasyto peel, and with less eid than your verge orange Crucially forthe lementine'® appeal = not eat a a ids’ stack - theyre generally grown seedless 100 Bue despite such recent histor. there remains some dispute over the lementine® origins Afterall havent the Chinese been growing aversion ofthe mandarin the original Title orange) thats pretty much identical to the clementine for hundreds of years? (Ves, they Jhave; es alled the Canton mandarin, and many believe moxiern clementines come from this, and not from Father Rode’ accidental Aiscoveryatall) Although gronm all ver southern Europe, north Arca and the Middle Fas, and available in the UK for many years, clementines have ken their time making inroads into a number of other markets crucially America, where they were virtually unknown untila couple of decades ago. ‘Confused about which is which? You should be: nearly everyone {s.Afer all residual resentment over Peat Harbour ses the version \weeall the sasuma sold as simple "mandarins in America (more on thisin amo) while in Australias tangerines thac are mandarins (If you're being technical, they'll mandarins of ane type or another) Across the globe, rarer variation lke rangors and tangelos, mineolas and mules are near-as- dammit the same a aclementine ta, ‘Why are wealkingaboutclementines in this isu? Afterall, tangerines have been around for much longer than the clementine since at least the 1800s, with the name coming from Tange, the Morocean seaport. through which these things made their way to rope. And then there’ the satsuma a variation named for an old Japanese province that used tobe s far left a you ean goon map of Japan. These, too, have been around for atleast couple of hundred years, and have the advantage of growing in far colder climates than other citrus fuits Whichever way you cutit, the clementine ia real Johnny-come-ltely “The things, hough, the clementine may have turned up tothe party late buts more than made up for ls time. In Fact, it now ‘ourslls the lotof them, an fora numberof reasons As seen on modern ritish shelf, angerines are smal yes bu slightly less sweet than the others ~ and are rough to peel Satsumas are seedless, perhaps the swectestandare surely the easiest to get naked with their loose, baggy skin ~but they're also the most easily damaged in transit, which is why youoften get them canned. Clementines, however, get everything right. They're sweet and tangy usually seedless easy to peel - bur sturdy enough to survivea bof rough and rumble too. Perfect! ‘Whatever your mandarin variation, clementine or not, there plenty you can do with them. They're all great in salads (fruit or ‘zrcen) and make good jams and marmalade. In terms of cooking they work surprisingly well with much seafood ~ seallops, maybe, or Aatfish ~ and pairbrilianty with duck, chicken and pork. Ad then there are the pad, rom mince pies to StClementscake basiallyclementines and almonds. And you know how sty old chocolate goes with anything? Well clementinesandchocoan oda combination as youl indanywhereon the sweet col. Aa 9 cromeswac.com RECIPE Hero Ingredients FILLET OF COD ag WALNUTS AND CLEMENTINES Ey NICK DEVERELL-suTH, ‘THE CHURCHILL ARMS SERVES 1 INGREDIENTS 180g line caught cod filet 2009 red beetroot 1009 candy beetroot 1009 yelow beetroot clementines 50g walnuts 3tbsp olve oll stand pepper METHOD ‘Preheat oven to SOCN2SF/qas mark 2 Thin lice 2 clementines and cry for 2-3 hours inthe oven. Then remove andleave to coal '3Cook the beetroot uni tender sated boting ‘water lor roughly hour). Then remove fromthe pan and put aside to cool ‘4Once cooled, peel and rough ice the beetoot and leave to one side, '5 Turn up the oven to 200C/400F/9es mark 6. {Seasonthe cod wah salt pepper and olve ol ‘and place na hot pan, skin side down beetrcot into a mbang bow and ad the juice of Tallow the skintobecome nice and.crsp.This__one clemertine, salt and peppe: and 3 tbsp of should ake 2-3 minutes. {good qualty lve ol 8 Add the walnuts andthen place the paninthe Warm the diced beetroot mtu and the ‘ven for 4 minutes. purée separately ‘9P.t1009 of ed beetroot into 8 blender wah salt, 12 Spoon the purée onto the pete place the fish pepper andlive oll and bend untlyouhavea_ontopthen add the beetroot chunks, walnut, Sil smooth purée, Clementine crisp and a drizle of olive ol {OWhile he sh cooking, puttherestofthe _churchilarms.co 410 crumesnsc.com [etieetee [ieclgeenten eet ee Sere ee Coed Eee ete ete Biceuets eas www.rovingsommelier. ‘@rovingsommelier rovingsommelier@gmallcom 07847 FESTIVE DINNERS Geren. See Beets aa Se tee leaere eee Loreen) eee eet ee ie cone Deed Sunday - Thursday from £149 (inclusive of breakfast) Friday & Saturday from £189 (inclusive of breakfast Peers SECRET From ever eeerren are ee eae Ted Dee eee ees Sear snack in our coffee shop and soak up the surroundings, Se eas EVERY DAY Deena oN 12 North Street, Wink Gloucestershire Gl 01242 604466 I ed ecm Ront SPIFFIN’ TIFFIN (Oxford (relative) neweomer Thali has justbeen given a Reduce Reuse Recycle yong a the Food Made Good Awards fr its ifn tn scheme. The scheme encourages people w buy atifin in, filliwith ‘delicious takeaway and then come back time af time for more delicious food ll without creating the piles of rubbish that are usualy generated by a take ‘ut Tes been running at the Bristol branches for some time, and now its been rolled out in Oxford, too, Pull ‘tummies, butless landfill everyone’ a winner thethalrestauranticouk STARTERS Openings Ete LOOK EAST ‘We come bearing news of another ace foodie offering opening in Oxfords new ‘Westgate shopping centre — this time, Comptoir Libanais. The founder ofthe chain, which dishes Up heme-stye Lebonese cooking, Tony Kitous, who soys Ns cm Is “to create « place for everyone to eat and drinkin humble and endl surrouneings” The menu is based onthe recipes and ingrecionts that Lebanese and Mile Eastern mothers would use at home, which sounds good to us, ALL THE WINES “The Cheltenham Wine Company has expanded itsempireby opening wine bar The Sivas has more chan 60 wines al aalabe by the sass, with a house wine on tap that changes «every month, Butthats not all There are also more than 40 gins to choose from, ps cocktails coffees, meat and cheese sharing ‘boards, pastries an cakes by Alana (winner of last years The Apprentice) Basically all the good stuff cheltenhamwineco co.uk ‘comptoliibanais.com DOUBLE UP [nS double celebrations for The Ok Passage in Arlingham. Noconly isthe restaurant celebrating its 10th anniversary, but i also just been namedas the Rest Seafood Restaurant South a the 2017 God Food gland Awards Its been a fantastic month for ust The (0d Passage” says Sally who runs the restaurant with her head chef Jon Lane and font of house manager Rosita Redwood, “Celebrating our 10-year anniversary is very special. We have changed very lite inthe 10years and remain committed to serving the freshest and bese quality fish and seafood in the area. Thisseems to have worked, because people who lave good food and quality seafood already seek us out. To win the award, a well has just been the cing onthe cake” theolepassoge.com 412 caumesnac.com WILD THINGS fyouive been lamenting the closure of The Chef's Doven and frankly, who hasti®, then its time w dry your tears, The couple behind The Chefs Dozen, Richard Craven and wife Solanche, have now opened their ‘new venture ~The Royal Oak in Whatcore.Themenuisstving = FF REELING FREE true to Richard’ passion for wild akwothinkdigesschaspigs TeAmbedey In wibe repping the Cotswolds ot bis ‘ead and black pudding lasagna With cider reduction, and recognition ofthe fact thot their menu f almost entiely ‘hazelnut or preserved pear, gluten-free - even dishes such as fish and chips and ‘hogweed and cobnut bits and sticky toffee pudding. “We're delighted to have been bobs. There's even abar menu of shortisted for this award” says owner Jane Bandey, “os ‘small plates and snacks, like i's a great achievement for our staff, and acknowledges Pickled pheasans gs Tables ther work ur Keen tea Has putin ome our aresurew ilu fats0 make food worthy of sucha prestigious accolode” your reservation PDQ “he winners wl be onnounce on Noversber 24,0 theroyolockwhatcote.co.uk keep your ingerscossed! theambereginn )=) Mg RAS GaNC ZU FU Ae als Massel te log > NOEL (AKA YULE LOG) BY EDD KIMBER (WINNER OF MAS; Ag SS oP CaS Os THE THING TO GRACE YOUR CHRISTMAS TABLE Peer ‘The Biche de Noslisthe dasic French Christmas cake and, come December, patseries goal out creating te most elaborate, beaut versions youhave ever soon, says Eat. These high-end cakes can also be extremely expensive: have seen them sell for as much as €1201My ‘version might be simpler butt til an impresive Christmas cake — ‘andmuch cheepert MILK CHOCOLATE AND HAZELNUT PRALINE BUCHE DE NOEL SERVES 10 INGREDIENTS FOR THE HAZELNUT PRALINE PASTE (IF MAKING) 50g blanched hazelnuts 1809 caster sugar pinch of fiaked sea salt FOR THE CHOCOLATE SPONGE butter or reasing 709 plan four, lus extra for dusting large eggs 100g caster sugar 30g coco power FOR THE DECORATION 125g hazelnuts, roughly chopped ‘4tsp edible oid powder (tional FOR THE PRALINE BUTTERCREAM ‘50g mik chocolate (30-40 per cent cocoa sols) finely chopped 125g caster sugar tlerae 9a 2iargeegg yok 225g uncalted butter st room temperature, iced 4 thsp hazelnut praine paste FOR THE HAZELNUT SYRUP 409 caster sugar 2tbsp Frangelico METHOD ‘1 Begin by making the praline peste (you are making your own and not using shop-bought) Preheat the oven to WEOCI350F/gas mark Line aay with baking parchment, put the nus onthe tay and bake {or 10-5 minutes. unt browned and fragrant Remove the ray rom the ‘oven and st aside while you cook the sugar. De not tum the oven off) '3Putthe sugarin a small pan over a medium heat and cook without String, unt the sugar has cissolved andis a dark amber brown. Be ‘atefulthat it doesn cook oo fer, ast can bum easy) ‘4 Remove the pan rom the heat and pour the caramel over the nuts, then leave to set 'SOnce st, breaknto chunks and put them inthe bovd of food processor. Pulse unt the chunks are broken dawn ait, then process ntl smooth. With a domestic processor this can take a wl, and the ‘modu wilt frst look powdery, but with enough time the nuts wil break down and release thai ols, making a smooth paste. Add the _atand process to combine. (When making praine pastes, the food processor or blender wil be on fora long tne. you ae worried about ¥e machine overheating, stop for 10 minutes before continuing) {6 Grease a 33%23¢m nmmed baking tay (known asa quarter sheet ppanjandline vith sheet of kong parchment. 7 Grease the parchment and then dust witha itl flour pping out any excess. '8To make the sponge, putthe eggs and sugarin a lage bowl and, Using an electric whisk, beat unt pele and thick, o that when the beaters ar ited fom the bow the bate leaves 2 tral {9Put the our and cocoa power ina bow and mactogether in three ‘adltions, st ths mture over the egg mocure, gently folding together wt a spatula ut fly combined. Pour ths batter into the prepared baking ray and gently level out. 40.Bake for 10-2 minutes unt the cake springs back othe touch. ‘1 Meanwfile, puta tea towel on a work surface and cover with apiece ‘of baking parchment. Remove the cake from the oven and immediately turnout ont the parehmert. Peel off the parchment fram the base ‘ofthe cake, andthen careful rl the cake tightly. wth the parchment and tea towel inside. Leave to cool, wrapped inside te tea towel, for about 20 minutes, This wl help the cake to unl and re-ol later wrtnout racking. {2 Put the hazelnuts forthe decoration ona baking tray and toast them inthe oven for 10 minutes oF untligtly brovmed. Set aside to coo. 13 To make the buttercream, met the chocolate ina heatproof bow! ‘over a pan of gent simmering water, making sue the base of te ‘boi doesnt touch the wate. Leave to cool slighty ‘WMeanufile,putthe sugar ‘and 75m waterina small pan over a medium-high heat {andbring tothe bol. When the sugar has dissolved ook unt the syrup reaches "20C onan instantread ‘thermometer When the syrup 'saround MSC, putthe egg ‘andyolks inthe bow of an ‘lactre mer ited wth the ‘whisk attachment and whisk Lunt pale and thickened (tis is best done using 2 freestanding lectic mixer, ‘Once the syrup reaches Recipe trom Patisserie Made 1206, and with the mixer stil ‘Simpleby Eda Kimber, ‘uneing, carefully pour the published by Kyle Books syupinto the egg mixture (£16.99; photography by Continue whisking untthe aura Edwards 299 misturehas cooled to "90m temperature 3B Add he butter. afew pieces ata time, beating ntl you have sky smooth buttereream. Once al the buter has been adced, add the pale paste and the meited mike chocolate, moang to combine 16 To make the hazelnut syrup, putthe sugar and 40m! water ina small anand bring tothe bol ver a medium hea, then cook fo 2 minutes. Remove the pan fiom the heat and pour inthe Frangelico. {7 To assemble, ual the sponge and remove the baking parchment, then brush liberal wth the syrup. Spread three-quarters ofthe buttercream evenly across the sponge, then carefully rol ituptghty Lit the roll oto a serving plate and spread the remaining buttercream ina thiniyer over the ouside ofthe cake, To make the decoration, put the chopped hazelnuts na small bow! anc mix with the gold pow using Press the nuts onto the butterream, coating the cake allover. 1B The cakes best eaten on the day tis mace, but wil sl taste good Upto two days ater as lang as itis kept in an alight container. The buttercream can be made up to one week in advance. Store in an aright container in the fiige low to come to room temperature and beat tuntlightand futy betore use. a= ‘Sipping back your cooking to alow you to enjoy the tue favours of ‘organically grown ingredients sa rl sil This year the Daylesord team has grown more than 20 varies of hertage pumpkins anc ‘squash intheir market garden and, thanks tothe rich organ sol they ‘enjoy each s filed wih favour and abundant with vial beta carotene, ‘magnesium and vitamins A, and E Like potatoes, much oftheir ‘utonal value ean be found inthe skin, cooking them as they hhave here gives you the very best ofthe whole thing. Try baking a variety of squash for added colours and textures anc serve on abig pater, drizzled generously withthe lavourul bute. ‘Altematvely ry baking smaller squash asa delicious tater with shards of cispy Parmesan and pancetta on top, and crusty bread on the side, SERVES 6 AS A SIDE INGREDIENTS Sssmall squash {tsp olve of| 25g buter 2 doves gate, tnely steed 18g sage leaves, stalks removed and roughly chopped ‘generous pinch of sat ‘wisto black pepper squeeze oflemonto finish METHOD 4 Presheat he oven to 200C/400F/gns mark6. 2 Perce the base of each squash witha sharp knife and place onto ‘a baking tray. (Should you wish to remove the seeds before baking, ‘imply cut around the stak of the pumpkin or squash to make lid ‘Scoop outthe seeds ana scar. Return te isto te squash and Dake inthe same way, but for sight less time) ‘3 Drzze alte olve ol over each squash and smother unt the sins ‘are evenly coated. Transfer tothe oven to bboke. This should take around 36-50 minutes, depending onthe 2e of your squash —they willbe ready when the skin's turing golden ‘andthe flesh has softened. ‘4 Meanwhile, make your buter dressing. Met ‘the butterina plan overa medium heat unth Just beginning totum golden brown id the finely steed gare and continue to cook Lunt the gare begins to curl and crisp. Add ‘he sage and seasoning before cooking for ‘further minute, Set aside coo! slighty, botore aiding justa spitz oflemon, '5 When the squash has cooked through ‘wansferthem to a pater Drizle over the

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