UNESCO Report On Galapagos 1960

Distribution limited PARIS, 10 October 1960.
(Provincial reproduction without photos) Original: English.
UNITED NATIONS EDUCATIONAL,

SCIENTIFIC AND CULTURAL ORGANIZATION
REPORT
on
A BIOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE OF THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS
DURING 1957
by
Robert I. Bowman
Assistant Professor of Biology
San Francisco State College
San Francisco, California
This document was transcribed from the original typewritten .jpg version into a
more legible format by Cultural and Natural Heritage Tours, December 2017
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Table of Contents
Page
CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................... 4

Historical importance of the Galápagos Islands ........................................................................... 4
Recent interest in the conservation of the Galápagos biota .......................................................... 5
Acknowledgements ...................................................................................................................... 8
CHAPTER 2. ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION ............................................................................. 10
Discussion with Ecuadorian officials : ....................................................................................... 13
CHAPTER 3. SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS ............................................................................ 14
Plants .......................................................................................................................................... 14
Vertebrates ................................................................................................................................. 16
Fishes. ........................................................................................................................................ 16
Reptiles ...................................................................................................................................... 16
Birds ........................................................................................................................................... 28
Mammals.................................................................................................................................... 31
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Summary .................................................................................................................................... 33
CHAPTER 4. SPECIAL PROBLEMS OF WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT IN GALÁPAGOS ..... 34
Page
Tuna fishery. .............................................................................................................................. 34

Poaching. .................................................................................................................................... 35
Introduction of foreign species................................................................................................... 36
Expanding agriculture. ............................................................................................................... 37
Tourism. ..................................................................................................................................... 38
Scientific collecting.................................................................................................................... 38
CHAPTER 5. SUGGESTIONS FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE GALÁPAGOS BIOTA AND
SCENIC AREAS ............................................................................................................................ 39
Special areas for birds ................................................................................................................ 39
Special areas for tortoises .......................................................................................................... 40
Special areas for land iguanas .................................................................................................... 40
Special areas for habitat diversity .............................................................................................. 41
Special areas of geological interest and scenic beauty ............................................................... 41
Defacement of landscape ........................................................................................................... 42
Patrol activities........................................................................................................................... 42
Scientific collecting.................................................................................................................... 43
Release of exotic species on Galápagos ..................................................................................... 43
CHAPTER 6. FACTORS DETERMINING THE FEASIBILITY OF A RESEARCH STATION
ON THE GALAPÁGOS ISLAND ................................................................................................. 43
Transportation ............................................................................................................................ 43
Communications ........................................................................................................................ 44
Medical and dental services ....................................................................................................... 45
Schools ....................................................................................................................................... 45
Living accommodations ............................................................................................................. 45
Local labour ............................................................................................................................... 46
Local building supplies .............................................................................................................. 46
Local foods, water, and fuels ..................................................................................................... 47
Boats .......................................................................................................................................... 48
Interest in a research station by Ecuadorian officials ................................................................. 49
How Ecuador might help ........................................................................................................... 49
CHAPTER 7. LOCATION OF A RESEARCH STATION ........................................................... 50
Location with respect to other Islands in the archipelago .......................................................... 50
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Location with respect to sources of supply ................................................................................ 50

Location with respect to social contacts ..................................................................................... 50
Page
Location with respect to habitat diversity .................................................................................. 50

Location w1th respect to building and expansion ...................................................................... 50
Location with respect to harbour facilities ................................................................................. 51
Possible sites for a station .......................................................................................................... 51
CHAPTER 8. PLANNING THE RESEARCH STATION ............................................................ 55
1. Analysis of types of activities ................................................................................................ 55
2. Determination of site of a station ........................................................................................... 55
3. Extent of equipment ............................................................................................................... 55
4. Availability of local materials ................................................................................................ 56
5. Local labour ........................................................................................................................... 56
6. Building type .......................................................................................................................... 56
CHAPTER 9. ORGANIZATIONS INTERESTED IN GALÁPAGOS ......................................... 57
California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco. ....................................................................... 57
Museum of Natural History, Stanford University, Stanford, California. ................................... 57
San Diego Zoological Society, ................................................................................................... 58
Allan Hancock Foundation, ....................................................................................................... 58
University of California. ............................................................................................................ 58
Seventh Day Adventist School of Tropical Medicine, ............................................................... 59
Los Angeles County Museum, ................................................................................................... 59
Pacific Oceanographic Fisheries Investigation (POFI), ............................................................. 59
CHAPTER 10. CONCLUSIONS ................................................................................................... 59
CHAPTER 11. APPENDIX ........................................................................................................... 61
CHAPTER 12. LITERATURE CITED .......................................................................................... 63
In July 1957, Ecuador issued a series of six

stamps featuring the Galápagos Islands, usable
only on the islands. Revenue from the sale of
these stamps is to be used exclusively for
public works projects on the islands.
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CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION
The "Archipiélago de Colón," more commonly known as the Galápagos Islands, is

situated approximately 500 miles west of the mainland of Ecuador to which country it
belongs. The group is composed of five large and seven small islands, numerous
islets and reefs, distributed about the equator at the same longitude as the city
of New Orleans.
Historical importance of the Galápagos Islands
Tales of unusual biological productions and of human strife in the Galápagos

region have long attracted the attention of historians, story writers, and scientists.
During the seventeenth century the islands served as a hideout for pirates of the
Eastern Pacific trade routes, on whose chores fresh meat in the form of titanic
tortoises and docile doves could be readily obtained. Near the close of the
eighteenth century freebooting gave way to whaling, and with the beginning of
hostilities between Great Britain and America, gunboats executed many sea raids
around Galápagos designed to harass English shipping (von Hagen, 1940). In 1841
the novelist Herman Melville visited the Galápagos Islands aboard a whaling ship
and they became the locale of his charming essay “The Encantadas.”
Scientific interest in the islands begins with the writings of Charles Darwin
and particularly his "Origin of Species" which was first published in 1859. When
Darwin visited Galápagos in 1835 as naturalist aboard the world cruising "H.M.S.
Beagle", he was so impressed with what he observed that he wrote as follows in his
diary of 1837:
"In July opened first notebook on 'Transmutation of Species'. Had been

greatly struck from about month of previous March on character of S. American
fossils and species on Galápagos Archipelago. Theca facts origin (especially
latter) of all my views." (Barlow, 1933: xiii)
The Galápagos Islands present a unique assortment of plants and animals which
make them especially attractive to biologists. For example, there is a group of
finches composed of 13 species, each of which in some degree resembles the other
species, especially in manner of song, plumage, nest, and so forth, but differs
from the others most conspicuously in size and shape of bill. However, one of the
unusual features is the frequent occurrence of individuals showing such an inter-
mediation of characters that they defy specific allocation. To the evolution
minded Darwin these birds, it was reasoned, could have been the descendents of a
common ancestor with bills now adapted to "different ends."
Two kinds of iguanas living on the Galápagos Islands may have provided Darwin
with additional “food for thought” on the origin of new species. The brilliantly
coloured land iguanas are distributed on many of the islands, often living but a
few yards from their nearest relative, the no less colourful marine iguana - the
only lizard in the world which enters the ocean to forage.
Most impressive to the eyes of buccaneers and whalers of past centuries, as

well as modern visitors to the islands, are the gigantic land tortoises, some
of which attain a weight of over 500 pounds. These reptilian monsters occur
naturally in no other place in the world, save for a few islands in the Indian
Ocean where a similar species still survives.
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A distinct species of penguin lives inconspicuously amongst the Western

islands directly under the equator - the sole members of a typically antarctic
or South temperate group of flightless birds occurring in "tropical" waters.
Another non-volant bird, the flightless cormorant, lives close by the penguin
foraging for fish in the cool nutrient-rich waters of the Humboldt (Peru)
Current. This North Westerly drifting oceanic stream is largely responsible
for the anomalies in the would be "tropical" climate, causing widespread
aridity along the low cactus studded coasts and frequent heavy rainfall in the
humid forests of the highlands. Giant tree-like cacti and 60 feet tall sun-
flower trees are but two more examples of the many unusual biological produc-
tions for which Galápagos is famous.
Few places in the world offer such a glorious panorama of "moon-like"

landscape, or present such an array of volcanoes (some of which are erupting
this very day) and may be found on Galápagos. The inhospitable nature of the
coastal regions, whose sun-parched lava supports but a growth of spiny plants,
is largely responsible for the retarded human colonization of these islands.
Within the past century and a half there has been extensive penetration of the
moist highlands of the larger islands and the development of plantations, so
that these "Enchanted Isles" are now capable of supporting a limited human
population.
In the past few years there has been a revival of interest in Galápagos by
the Government of Ecuador, which is directed mainly at agricultural expansion
through increased colonization, and toward the development of tourist attractions.
As a result, new demands have come from internationally minded conservationists
that appropriate action be taken to safeguard the Galápagos biota from further
destruction.
Coupled with this upsurge of human activity in Galápagos are the dangers
presented by predatory feral cats, dogs, and pigs, which find easy prey in the
tame birds, lizards, and tortoises.
Recent interest in the conservation of the Galápagos biota
Fearing the possible extinction of the Galápagos tortoise by the oil hunters,
in 1928 the New York Zoological Society sent Dr. Charles H. Townsend to Galápagos
to procure a breeding stock of the animals for colonization in the Southern
states of the United States. He brought back 180 individuals from Albemarle
Island. Some of the tortoises collected In 1928 are still alive in zoos today.
In 1930, Dr. Townsend reports (1930: 153) that an attaché of the Consulate
of Ecuador in Wsv York requested his opinion as to what steps should be taken
by the Ecuadorian Government for the preservation of the animal life of the
Galápagos Islands. This gentleman also made inquiry as to whether a scientific
association, such as the New York Zoological Society, would be interested in
undertaking the supervision of some method of conservation that might be found
desirable.
In 1936 formal action was taken to enforce the 1934 statutes which provided
for the protection of the Galápagos fauna and flora. On 14 May of that year a
decree was signed by Ecuador's Provisional President Paez, by which the following
islands were declared to be national parks and reservations for the flora and
fauna: Hood, James, Barrington, Jervis, Seymour, Daphne, Tower, Bindloe,
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Abingdon, Culpepper, Indefatigable, and that part of Albemarle between Albemarle

Point and Perry Isthmus. It was further stated that a board of directors should
supervise the protection of plant and animal life on the islands and the establish-
ment of research stations (Atwood, 1940: 49). It is uncertain whether the provi-
sional committee of Dr. Teodoro Maldonado Carbo, Dr. Antonio Parra V., and Messrs
Francisco Campo K., Eduardo Mena, and Jonas Guerro, named in the decree, ever
functioned as intended.
One of the most active American scientists Interested in obtaining better

protection of the Galápagos biota during the latter part of the 1930's was Dr.
John S. Garth of the Allan Hancock Foundation, University of Southern California.
Dr. Garth accompanied the Foundation’s research vessel to Galápagos on its
numerous expeditions (see Meredith, 1939). In 1937 he called upon Dr. John C.
Phillips, then Chairman of the Executive Committee of the American Committee on
International Wildlife Protection to see what might be done through that organi-
sation to promote more effective conservation of the Galápagos biota. Co-operating
with Dr. Garth was Dr. Waldo L. Schmitt of the United States National Museum who
with Dr. Garth always maintained that permanent station on the Galápagos Islands
was the only way to study and protect its fauna and flora. Unfortunately, nothing
tangible resulted from these efforts.
In 1946 efforts were renewed to bring the Galápagos Islands under more
favourable wildlife management, and at a meeting of the Pacific Science Conference
of the National Research Council, held in Washington, D.C, 6-8 June, the following
recommendation was presented:
"That steps be taken toward the establishment of a base research station

for various types of scientific investigation in the Galápagos Islands,
making use of existing installations. The base should be of a permanent
nature because of the importance of maintaining continuous oceanographic,
biological, and meteorological records from this island outpost of South
America. By way of specific illustrations of projects for this station,
it may be pointed out that various elements of the land fauna are little
known; that the extraordinary humid zone of the south face of the larger
islands offer the opportunity for a unique ecological mountain transect,
especially from Academy Bay an Indefatigable Island; that the more
barren coasts and islands afford simplified ecological conditions, comparable
to those of Arctic islands, and provide a veritable field laboratory in
themselves; and that the biological Interest of these islands is so great
that conservation measures, under the control of such a research station,
are urgently required." (Bull. Nat. Res. Council, No. 114, Sept. 1946,
p. 43.)
Active in promoting this and other recommendations were Dr. Harold J. Coolidge,
Executive Secretary, Pacific Science Board, and Vice-chairman of the Continuation
Committee designated to implement this and other recommendations of the conference,
and also Dr. Dillon S. Ripley of Yale University.
"UNESCO, under the guidance of its first Director, Dr. Julian Huxley, had on
several occasions shown its anxiety that at least certain parts of these islands
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might be allowed to become effectively protected and maintained intact."

(Press Release of the I.U.C.N., Sept. 1956)
In the Fall of 1955, Dr. Robert I. Bowman and Dr. I, Eibl-Eibesfeldt wrote
independently to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature and
presented their first-hand observations on Galápagos, pointing to the need for.
more effective conservation practices and the desirability of establishing a
permanent research installation on the islands.
In January 1956, Dr. Bowman seat copies of an article to the International

Union for the Conservation of Nature as further evidence of the imminency of the
dangers to the Galápagos biota. Subsequently, public interest in this cause was
effectively aroused through letters from numerous other scientists in America and
Europe addressed to the I.U.C.N. ‘s President, Prof. Roger Heim, and its Assistant
Secretary-General, Mme. Marguerite Carom.
Mr. Jean Delacour, President, and Dr. Dillon Ripley, Secretary, of the
Pan-American Section of the International Committee for Bird Preservation, met with
Ecuadorian officials in Quito during May 1956 in an attempt to interest them in the
creation of a biological field station and national parks on the Galápagos Islands.
(See Bull, of the I.C.B.P. for 11 July 1956, p. 2)
These activities were culminated in the following resolution passed at the

Fifth General Assembly of the International Union for Conservation of Nature and
Natural Resources, held in Edinburgh, 20-28 June 1956:
"The Fifth General Assembly, having taken note with approval of the
interesting report submitted by the Survival Service Committee,
is deeply concerned by reports which have been received by the
Union regarding the precarious situation of various species of
fauna and flora endemic to the Galápagos Islands which are entitled
to protection under the Ecuadorian laws which were established in
1934. The General Assembly is likewise concerned by reports in
the press of plans for the large tourist and economic development
of the resources of the Galápagos Islands which might further
jeopardize the endangered species found there. They recommend
that qualified naturalists should be encouraged to visit the
Galápagos Islands to make a survey and ecological studies of the
fauna and flora and express their hope that facilities will be
provided by the Ecuadorian Government or through some form of
international technical aid so that a small housing unit or
laboratory might serve as a base for such scientific work.
It is hoped that additional funds may be found to support a long
range scientific programme in the Galápagos Islands and as part
of such a programme, certain islands of the Galápagos Archipelago
might be set aside as permanent reserves to enable the fauna and
flora to remain undisturbed and so as to provide for long term
research,"
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Dr. Harold J. Coolidge has informed me that the 9th Pacific Science Congress
held in Bangkok (1957) passed the following resolutions:
"In view of the endangered status of many elements in the indigenous fauna
and flora of the Galápagos Islands, the Congress resolves that:
"The Congress views with satisfaction the institution of efforts by Unesco

and by the International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural
Resources with the support of the Government of the Republic of Ecuador,
to establish protection for the fauna and flora of the Galápagos Islands.
The Congress especially commands the establishment, as soon as possible,
of a research and observation station in the archipelago, and urges the
support of such station by international funds."
In April, 1957 the I.U.C.N, was successful in obtaining financial assistance

from Unesco to send Dr. Eibl-Eibesfeldt on "a first mission of reconnaissance" to
Galápagos. Through the energetic activities of Dr. Dillon Ripley, acting as co-
ordinator of several American organizations also keenly interested in the Galápagos
reconnaissance, financial support was obtained for Dr. Bowman in order that be
might serve as the American delegate on the Unesco reconnaissance. The four groups
contributing to his expenses were, International Committee for Bird Protection
(Pan-American Section), Life Magazine, New York Zoological Society, and the
Conservation Foundation.
The main purposes of the survey were as follows:
1. To determine the practicality of establishing a permanent scientific

station on the Galápagos Islands.
2. To locate a possible site for such a station.
3. To explore with Ecuadorian officials the possibility of setting aside

one or more islands In the Galápagos as an International wildlife reserve.
4. To check on the distribution, relative abundance, and ecology of certain

"vanishing" species.
5. To obtain adequate photographic documentation of the Islands and their

biota for publicity purposes.
On 5 July 1957, accompanied by personnel from Life Magazine, namely, Mr.

Rudolf Freund, illustrator, and Mr. Alfred Eisenstaedt, photographer, Eibl and
Bowman departed by airplane from New York City for Guayaquil, Ecuador.
Acknowledgements
In addition to the philanthropic organizations mentioned above whose grants

made It possible for the writer to participate in the Galápagos reconnaissance,
there are many individuals who have contributed directly or indirectly to the
success of the survey. The following deserve special mention: Prof. Roger Heim
and Mme. Marguerite Caram of the I.U.C.N., who in large part are responsible for
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the successful guidance of the present project from its inception to the commence-
ment of the field work; Dr, I. Eibl-Eibesfeldt, whose enthusiasm and initiative
in promoting this project with the I.U.C.N. were instrumental in obtaining the
support from Unesco; Dr. Dillon S. Ripley, Yale ^University, who has combined
his long steading scientific interest in the Galápagos biota with his administrative
talents to co-ordinate American support for this project; Miss Patricia Hunt,
Nature Editor of Life Magazine, who cheerfully accepted and skillfully carried
out a large share of the work of planning the expedition.; Dr. Fairfield Osborn,
New York Zoological Society, whose prestige and administrative experience in
organizing scientific expeditions have served the Galápagos mission most profitably.
Active cooperation of the Government of Ecuador, on whose request the survey

mission was sent to the Galápagos Islands, facilitated the field work through
the generous contribution of rapid transportation to and among the islands, and the
free use of the wireless radio, and in many other ways. The friendly co-operation
of official and non-official Ecuadorian citizens wherever we went was most gratifying.
The members of the expedition extend to the following Ecuadorian officials

special thanks for their aid and hospitality; Dr. Camilo Ponce Enrique, President
of the Republic; Sr. Ingo Alfonso Calderon Moreno, Minister of National Defense;
Sr. Carlos TobarZaldumbide, Minister of Foreign Affairs; Dr. Jose Baquerizo
Maldonado, Minister of Education; Sr. Guillermo Ordonez, Commander General of
the Navy; Sr. Rafael Andrade Ochoa, Commander General of Aviation; Sr. Jorge
Crespo Toral, Co-ordinator General for Technical Assistance; Sr. Guillermo
Davalos, Capt. of Patrol Boat "04"; Sr. Arturo Menu and Sr. Rovere, Port Captains
at, Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island; Sr. Gomar, Governor of Galápagos, and
Sr. Larrea, Acting Governor of Galápagos.
Especially helpful in practical matters on Galápagos were Mr. and Mrs. Miguel
Castro, Mrs. Helen Corey, Mr. Carl Angemeyer, Mr. ErlingGraffer, Mr. Gilberto
Moncayo, Mr. Enrique Fuentes, Mr. Cecil Moncayo, and Mr. Carl Kübler. Mr. Ernest
C. Devine put his amateur radio services at our disposal and helped in other ways.
Mr. Anthony E. Balinski, resident representative of the United Nations

Technical Assistance Board in Ecuador, served as our official adviser and guide
while in Quito and assisted in many other ways; Mr. Christian Ravndal, United
States Ambassador, and Sr. Jorge Jurado of "El Comercio," aided our group on many
occasions; Sr. Ralpho Del Campo of Panagra, was of much service in expediting
our official duties while in Guayaquil.
The writer is grateful to Dr. Alden Miller, Director of the Museum of

Vertebrate Zoology, University of California, for advice, material aid, and loan
of scientific equipment. Dr. Carl L. Hubbs, Scripps Institution of Oceanography,
Dr. R.C. Miller,Dr. Robert T. Orr, and Dr. Earl Herald of the California Academy
of Sciences, and Francis and Ainslie Conway, Berkeley, California, offered freely
their advice in the planning stages.
I am grateful to the Administration of San Francisco State College for releasing

me from academic duties during the Fall semester, 1957.
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Finally, special acknowledgment should be made of the enthusiastic partici-

pation of Mr, Pruand and Mr, Eisenstaedt throughout the course of the survey.
Life Magazine should be highly commended for additional contributions which made
it possible for the group to extend their activities to important areas which
would otherwise have been by-passed.
CHAPTER 2. ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION
5 July - Leave New York City by airplane.
6 July - Arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador. Freund, Eisenstaedt, and Eibl

depart for Quito. Bourns remains In Guayaquil for discussions
with Mrs. EelenCoray, domestic manager of our expedition.
7 July - Bowman departs for Quito. Reception for mission at home of

U.S, Consul, Mr. Ferry Culley. Among officials attending were
Mr. Ravndal, U.S. Ambassador; Mr. Balinski, United Nations
Technical Assistance Board; Sr. Calderon, Minister of Rational
Defense; Sr. Andrade, Commander General of Aviation, etc.
Dinner at home of Sr. Jorge Jurado of "EL Comercio".
8 July - Meeting with the Co-ordinator of Technical Assistance for

Ecuador, Sr. Jorge Crespo. This was a ‘work” session to
present details of the Galápagos mission. Mr. Balinski
acted as interpreter.
Meeting with American Ambassador to arrange details of

passports.
Meeting with Minister of National Defense and Commander-Generals

of Navy and Aviation to prepare details of transportation to
Galápagos via Government airplane and ship.
Reception at home of Mr. Jan Schreuder, Director of Arts at

Unesco`s Casa de la Cultura; otherguestsincluded Sr. Carlos
Mantilla, Editor of "EL Comercio," which newspaper has given
the Galápagos mission much favourable publicity, and other
local dignitaries.
9 July - Airplane trip over Andes courtesy of the Ecuadorian Government,

accompanied by many officials.
Audience with the President of the Republic, Dr. Ponce (see

fig. 1).
Meeting with Dr. Acosta-Solis, Director of the Instituto

Ecuatoriana de CienciasNaturales.
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Meeting with the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Sr, Tobar.
Meeting with the Minister of Education, Dr, Baquerizo to

discuss practical measures which the Government of
Ecuador might take to further the cause of our mission.
Attended meeting of the Comité Nacional del Año

Geofísico Internacional and the Subcomisión Técnica de
Trabajo de Oceanografía to inform members of the
importance of a research station on Galápagos.
10 July - Leave Quito for Guayaquil.
Meeting with Naval Commander of District no. 1 concerning

the shipment of cargo on "El Oro" to Galápagos.
Meeting with Mrs, Helen Coray to prepare list of materials

to be purchased for expedition.
11 July - Clear baggage through customs. Made purchases of food, etc.

end load these on board "El Oro".
12-14 July - Relaxation in Guayaquil and Playas, awaiting departure of

Catalina for Galápagos on 15 July.
15 July - Leave Guayaquil by Catalina at 10.45 a.m. Arrive Baltra

air strip, 3.45 p.m. Transfer cargo to "El Oro" which was
awaiting our arrival at the air strip.
16 July - Sail from Baltra to Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island.
17-19 July - Make preparations at Academy Bay.
20-23 July - Trip to "Tortoise Country," Indefatigable Island.
27 July - Academy, Bay to Duncan Island.
28 July - Duncan Island.
29 July - Duncan to Jervis Island.
30 July - Jervis Island.
31 July - Jervis to James Island.
1-2 Aug. - James Bay, James Island.
3 Aug. - James Island to Bartholomew Island.
4 Aug. - Bartholomew to Eden Island.
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5 Aug. - Eden to Conway Bay, Indefatigable Island.
6-12 Aug. - Academy Bay. [ ll Aug. Eisenstaedt and Freund leave for Baltra
Island.]
13 Aug. - Academy Bay to Cartago Bay, Albemarle Island.
14 Aug. - Cartago Bay to West side Abingdon Island.
15 Aug. - Abingdon Island.
16 Aug. - Abingdon to Tower Island.
17-18 Aug. - Tower Island.
19 Aug. - Tower Island to Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island.
20-29 Aug. - Academy Bay. [ Freund returns to Academy Bay, 23 August and
departs for Narborough Island, 2 August]
30 Aug. - Academy Bay to Barrington Island.
31 Aug. - Barrington Island.
1 Sept. - Barrington Island to Academy Bay.
2 Sept. - Academy Bay to Tagus Cove, Albemarle Island.
3-15 Sept. - Narborough Island.
l6 Sept. - Narborough Island to Elizabeth Bay, West side of Albemarle Island.
17 Sept. - Elizabeth Bay to Academy Bay.
18 Sept. - Academy Bay.
19 Sept. - Academy Bay to Charles Island.
20 Sept. - Charles Island.
21 Sept. - Charles Island to Gardner-near-Hood Island.
22 Sept. - Gardner-near-Hood Island.
23-24 Sept. - Hood Island.
25 Sept. - Hood Island to Academy Bay.
26-27 Sept. - Academy Bay.
28-29 Sept. - Highlands of Indefatigable Island.
30 Sept.
to 7 Oct. - Academy Bay.
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8 Oct. - Highlands of Indefatigable Island.
9 Oct. - Tortuga Bay, Indefatigable Island.
10-11 Oct. - Academy Bay.
12 Oct. - Tortuga Bay, Indefatigable Island.
13 Oct. - Academy Bay.
14 Oct. - Academy Bay to Barrington Island.
15 Oct. - Barrington Island to Gardner -near -Hood Island.
16 Oct. - Hood Island.
17 Oct. - Hood to Chatham Island.
18 Oct. - Chatham Island.
19 Oct. - Chatham to Barrington Island.
20 Oct. - Barrington to Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island
21 Oct.
to 21 Nov. - Academy Bay.
22 Nov. - Academy Bay to Chatham Island.
23-25 Nov. - Chatham Island to Guayaquil, Ecuador.
26-27 Nov. - Guayaquil, Ecuador.
28-29 Nov. - Guayaquil to Miami to San Francisco.
Discussion with Ecuadorian officials :
During our brief visit to Quito, 7 to 10 July, inclusive, numerous

discussions were held with various Ecuadorian officials, all of which, in general,
reflected considerable interest in our mission and assured us of full co-operation
whenever requested. Expressions of their sincerity and willingness to help are
reflected in the following:
1. The Minister of National Defense, through the Commander-General of

Aviation, placed a Catalina Flying Boat at our disposal for transportation to
Galápagos on 15 July, and for the return of Mr. Eisenstaedt in mid-August.
2. The Commander-General of the Navy co-ordinated the sailing schedule of

the Government operated "El Oro" in order that we would not be inconvenienced in
any way upon our arrival at the airport on Baltra Island. "El Oro” was awaiting
our arrival and took us directly to Academy Bay.
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3. A modern speedy patrol boat was placed at the disposal of Eibl sad Bowman
whenever we requested it. Captain Davalos and his crew co-operated with us in
every way possible to make us comfortable and to land us wherever we requested, and
often at "wild" anchorages.
4. The government -operated wireless radio was placed at our disposal on

numerous occasions, thus greatly expediting our field work.
5. The Minister of Education was so keenly interested in the Galápagos

project that he requested monthly reports of our progress and any recommendation
we might wish to make for the establishment of wildlife reserves on Galápagos. It
was explained that quick action on our part would make it possible, if we so wished
it, to present to the Fall session of the 1957 Ecuadorian Congress, legislation In
support of our recommendations.
6. The National Committee for the International Geophysical year expressed

much interest in the possibility of a research station on Galápagos, and wished to
know if we envisioned oceanographic studies being carried out there. We indicated
that we did.
7. Ecuadorian scientists such as Dr. H. Acosta-Solis, Dr. Julio Arauz, and

Prof. Gustavo Orces of the Comité Nacional de Proteccíon a la Naturaleza y
Conservación de los Recuraos Naturales del Ecuador, haveIndicatedtheirenthusiasm
for our mission and hoped that a research station would materialize on Galápagos.
CHAPTER 3. SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATIONS
In the following paragraphs I shall present some of the more significant

biological observations made by the various members of our group. Systematic
collections and observations were restricted for the most part to terrestrial
vertebrates because of limitations of time. The writer also made notes -on the
distribution of the vegetarian and prepared some herbarium specimens.
At the time of this writing (10 January 1958) not all of the collections on
which many of the following observations are based, were at hand. For this
reason certain conclusions are necessarily tentative, pending closer scrutiny of
the specimens.
Plants
A relatively small collection of plants was made principally on Indefatigable

Island, but a few specimens were also obtained on Jervis, Abingdon, Albemarle,
Narborough, Chatham, Gardner-near-Hood, and Hood.
Of special Interest was the procurement of specimens of the endemic species of

Compositae, ScalesiaHelleri, from the West side of Tortuga Bay on the South shore
of Indefatigable Island. This curly-leaved, highly aromatic, shrubby species is
known only from three previous collections; the first two from Barrington Island
and the third, a previous collection from Indefatigable Island. Mr. Thomas Howell,
California Academy of Sciences, who is an authority on Galápagos plants, has identi-
fied this new material.
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Under the leadership of Mr. Rudolf Freund, an expedition was organized to

penetrate the interior of Narborough Island for the purpose of making scientific
observations in and around the large central crater. This expedition represents
the fourth of its kind to reach the rim of the large central crater on Narborough
Island. The first was in 1899 by Snodgrass and Heller who climbed to the North
rim of the crater (Heller, 1903: 40). The second was by Mr. R. Beck in 1906 who
examined the South-East rim of the crater having started from Mangrove Point
(South-East corner of the island). The third expedition was organized by Mr. Otis
Barton who in 1956, with the aid of Mr. Carl Angemeyer, climbed to the East rim of
the crater from Point Espinosa (Northeast corner of the island). Three of Mr.
Barton’s carriers entered the crater and brought out fresh water from the lake.
Our expedition provided an excellent opportunity for the writer to compare

the altitudinal distribution of the vegetation and compare it with that on the
South-facing slope of Indefatigable Island. Regrettably, no herbarium specimens
were obtained on Narborough (only seeds) because of severe weight and space
limitations.
Although the North and North-East rim of Narborough crater is at an elevation

of over 4000 feet, none the less no grass-fern formation is developed here as it- is
on the South-facing slope of Indefatigable island at 2000 feet elevation. Rather,
the Scalesia tree forms a uniform forest growth about 8-10 ft. high at its maximum
development, which is in marked contrast to the 50-60 ft. high Scalesia trees
occurring on the South-facing slopes of Indefatigable Island. This situation may
be due to differences in rainfall and wind exposure.
Some authors (viz. Lack, 1947: 78-79) have given the impression that "conditions"
om the various islands of the Galápagos are more or less the same. It came somewhat
as a surprise, therefore, to discover rather striking differences in the growth-form
of the vegetation and the degree of dominance of certain species on the different
islands visited, many of which, presumably, have similar climates, For example,
on Indefatigable Island the thorny tree Parkinsoniaforme a very inconspicuous
element in the coastal vegetation, whereas on Duncan Island, all members of our
group can attest to the dense tangle of dwarf trees of this species over large
areas of the Island. Another example is the Opuntia cactus, which is so common
throughout the arid coastal zone on Indefatigable Island that it forms one of the
most conspicuous elements in the vegetation. On the North-facing slopes of
Narborough Island this cactus is extremely rare, and we did not encounter our first
tree until reaching the 1260 ft. elevation.
Wild tomato seeds were obtained from plants representing two distinct forms
which were growing along the edge of the crater lake on Narborough Island (2325 ft.)
This represents the first collection of its kind from this area and has been
presented to Dr. Charles Rick of the University of California who actively engaged
in genetical studies on Galápagos tomatoes.
About four miles inland from Academy Bay in the Scalesia forest zone and above,
there has been a rapid clearing of the virgin forest for agriculture. During the
interim of 4 years since the writer was last, in Galápagos, many great changes in the
native vegetation have taken place. The farming community of Fortuna has now been
extended to a distance of about one mile to the West of the main trail, and North-
ward into the lower Miconia brush zone (above the Scalesia forest zone). It is
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nearly impossible to find an area of forest that has not been disturbed by man or
his introduced animals in much of the area directly North of Academy Bay.
The zonation of the vegetation on the South-facing slope of Indefatigable

Island, presents a unique biological situation far Galápagos. This is especially
true for the Opuntia-Cereus forest around Academy Bay which is one of the tallest
and densest of such formations on Galápagos, and the Miconia brush belt at
elevations above the Scalesia forest. The latter formation has been the main
obstacle in the penetration of the highest elevations on the Island.
Vertebrates
Fishes.
Very few species of freshwater fishes have previously been taken from
the Galápagos Islands. It was, therefore, with much interest that Hr. Freund
and the writer collected four species of fish from freshwater pools about 1000 yards
inland from Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island. Mr. Richard Rosenblatt, Curator
of Marine Vertebrates, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, has identified these
specimens as Gerrescinereus. BathygobiusL. lineatus, Philypnusmaculatus. and
Electricpictus. He reports that the last two species are freshwater electrids
which have never been recorded previously from the Islands. Bathygobius and Gerres
are marine forms which are known to enter freshwater.
Circumstances surrounding the discovery of a small species of fish in the

crater lake of Barborough Island is of some interest. Several medium sized fish
hooks baited with fresh meat were hung from a float about 25 yards from the East
shore of Narborough Lake. Several members of our group noticed a slight bobbing
of the float and close examination through the 300mm. lens of my camera suggested
that the motion might be due to winds, waves, or currents. No fish were caught
by the books and note were observed along the shore in the murky green waters. On
the last morning in camp the writer captured a large snake (Dromicus) by a clump
of vegetation adjacent to the lake. This and other snakes were carried alive In
my pack as our group climbed out of the crater. At the end of the first day's climb,
all snakes succumbed to the heat and were preserved in formalin. For lack of space,
the snakes were forced into a very small jar. Two days later when we sorted our
collections, a small, near transparent fish, about one inch long, was discovered
at the bottom of the jar which had contained the snakes. Mr. Rosenblatt informs
me that it Is a postlarvalclinid, almost certainly Labrisomus and probably L.
dendriticus. which is a Galápagos endemic. It is surprising to find a clinid”
being taken in freshwater since the family is not known for Its euryhalinilty.
The surface water in Narborough crater lake was definitely sweet although heavily
tainted with sulphurousflavours. In view of the fact that the lake level is over
2000 feet above sea level, we are obliged to assume that there is no saltwater
intrusion at the lake bottom, depth probably under 100 feet.
Reptiles
(l) Tropidurus. Van Denburgh (1913:164) reports that the lava lizard "appears
to be nearly extinct on Charles Island", which he attributes to the abundance of
cats on the island. Eibl informed me that he obtained one on 21 September 1957,
in the region of Black Beach.
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(2) Conolophus. According to Van Denburgh and Slevin (1913:188) the land
iguana was formerly abundant on James, Indefatigable, South Seymour, Albemarle,
and Narborough Islands. "It is now rare on Albemarle and probably extinct on
James and Indefatigable."
None were observed on South Seymour Island by our group where Beebe (1924: 277)
found them numerous twenty-five years previous. No doubt the apparent extermination
of this iguana on South Seymour is attributable to the activities of the United
States military on this island during World War II.
The California Academy of Sciences' expedition in 1905 -06 found the deserted
burrows of what at one time must have been a large colony of land iguanas on
Indefatigable Island. Van Denburgh and Slevin (1913:189) considered the species
extinct on this Island. It was with much excitement, therefore, when Sr. Miguel
Castro and Mr. ErlingGraffer brought our group to a colony of land iguanas,
hitherto unknown to science, at Conway Bay (North-West side of Indefatigable
Island). We estimated the number on the colony at about 25.
Mr. Freund and. I was guided to a lava tunnel by Herr Carlos Kubler, which was
situated about one mile and a half inland from Academy Bay. On the floor of this
half mile-long tunnel we found a large assortment of land Iguana bones, many of
which were of very large proportions.
Land iguanas were observed on Narborough Island from the North coastal region
inland to the top of the North rim, and down into the crater to the edge of the
freshwater lake. Reports of land iguanas measuring nearly six feet long were not
confirmed by our group. None we observed was much over three and one half feet
in length but they were exceedingly numerous, and droppings were often seen on
barren lava great distances from sources of food.
One female land iguana captured by Eibl on 11 September in the crater of

Narborough, contained nine eggs with shells wall formed. Van Denburgh and Slevin
(1913:191) reported large eggs in animals on Barrington Island on 22 October,
whereas none had enlarged ovaries on 6 April. This observation supports the view
that the land iguana breeds in the "Fall" season on Galápagos (dry season).
Van Denburgh and Slevin (1915:190) remark that the Academy Expedition found
no burrows of land Iguanas on Narborough Island. Rather, the animals lived in
cracks in the lava. Our group found active burrows in the soil from sea level to
the North rim of the crater, and in the latter location they proved to be somewhat
of a hazard while walking because of unexpected cave-ins.
We found the land iguana very common on Barrington Island, especially on a

plateau inland from the North-East coast, presumably in the same area where the
Academy expedition reported that "natives had visited the island and cleared out
the entire iguana colony". Inasmuch as they are very common there today, we can
see how this species is able to re-establish itself even when the population has
been almost completely killed off by hunters. Apparently, the animals are killed
chiefly for their skins which are used for leather.
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At Tagus Cove, Albemarle Island, I observed dried droppings which I thought

were those of tortoise. However, since R. Beck observed 6-8 land iguanas here In
1906, possibly the species is still intact.
No land iguanas were observed in the vicinity of James Bay, the only place
our group landed on this island.
Heller (1903:85) believes that the extinction of the land iguana on islands
where it formerly was abundant (i.e. Junes, Indefatigable) is due chiefly to the
introduced dogs which destroy both eggs and adults. This may very well be true
for wild dogs were once known to roam Indefatigable Island in considerable numbers
and then rather suddenly disappeared. The land Iguana was thought to be extinct
on this island. Human colonization has been too recent to account for the absence
of the land iguana around Academy Bay and inland, where we may presume it once
flourished, in view of the large number of cave skeletons we obtained. With the
disappearance of the dogs, it might not be feasible to transfer stock from Conway
Bay to Academy Bay and to other points around the island where possibly they once
occurred.
Heller (loc. cit.) also remarks that "all the individuals observed were
somewhat shy and would scamper to their burrows as soon as alarmed. This Is
undoubtedly an acquired habit due to their persecution by dogs." The writer Is
sceptical of this statement for wild dogs were never known to occur on Islas Plaza
or Narborough Island and at both these places the iguanas were found to be very
shy and ferocious.
(3)Amblyrhynchus. In recent years there were no reports of the enormous

herds of marine iguanas, which, in some localities, were so numerous that they
more or less completely obscured the rocks (see Heller, 1903:90, and photo by
Beck taken around 1900 in Beebe, 1924:Fig. 28).
Mr. Freund discovered a herd of several hundred marine Iguanas at Point

Espinosa, North-East corner of Narborough Island in September, before the onset
of territorial behaviour in the males. (Sec Life Magazine, 8 September 1958, page
67.)
On Hood Island in September and October Individuals were found in their

brilliant colours distinctive of breeding condition. Slevin remarks that "the
iguanas are now very brightly coloured - green, red, and black" on 5 February
1906 (Yen Denburgh and Slevin, 1913:193), and Eibl-Eibesfeldt (1956) described
this population as a new race.
No marine iguanas were found on Charles Island in the region of Black beach and
none were seen by any of the members of the Academy expedition in 1905-06 (Van
Denburgh and Slevin, 1913:193).
(4) Dromicus. In 1952-53 the writer found no snakes on the Southside of

Indefatigable Island where once they were known to occur in abundance. At that
time feral cats were also plentiful. In 1957 several snakes were collected, and
coincidentally the cat population was very low due to a recent poisoning campaign.
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Van Denburgh (1912:336), under "Suggestions to Future Students", remarks that

"future collectors in these islands should strive to secure specimens of the snake
of Chatham Island, if such there be". It was of much scientific interest, therefore,
to learn that Sr. Luis Perez and his brother from Guayaquil had collected a specimen
or two of snake around Wreck Bay, Chatham Island during November, 1957. These were
taken to the museum at the Colegio San Jose, In Guayaquil, Eibl also obtained
representatives of this island form whose systematic position is yet to be determined.
The writer obtained one snake from Bartholomew Island from which no snake has
previously been taken.
Two specimens of snake were obtained on Albemarle Island from which island
existing museum collections have few representatives. Eibl found one snake in
September at Tagus Cove, and the writer obtained one from Cartago Bay in August.
As noted previously, snakes were found in the crater of Narborough Island and
one of these regurgitated a small fish, presumably caught in the crater lake. The
presence of a fish in the stomach of Dromicus represents a new item in the diet of
this reptile. The tail of Tropidurus. the foot and tail of a gecko, and grasshoppers,
have all been previously reported in the stomachs of Galápagos land snakes (see
Van Denburgh, 1912: 341, 353, and 355).
(5) Sea snake. Mr. Slevin reports the Academy group observed a bicolour sea-
snake (Pelamydrusplaturus) about 20 inches in length, black on top, and bright
yellow below, on the open ocean between Chatham and Hood island on 24 February 1906
(Van Denburgh, 1912:355).
On 20 November 1957, the writer observed a bright yellow coloured snake along
side our boat which was anchored in Academy Bay. The details of coloration could not
be discerned since the observation was made after dark and the animal was visible
only for brief moments in the light from the deck* The crew was aroused and made
an unsuccessful effort to capture the snake. This observation constitutes the
second known record of the sea-snake in Galápagos waters.
(6) Gecko. Our observations on geckos have added little that is new concerning
the biology or distribution of this species.
(7) Tortoise. The Galápagos Islands were appropriately named the "Isles of the
Tortoises. From the time of their discovery by the Spaniards early in the sixteen-
the century, down to the middle of the nineteenth century, their outstanding feature
has been the presence of great numbers of land tortoises of gigantic size. No
other product of the lonely archipelago was of much more than passing interest to
navigators except the fur seals, of which they soon disposed (Townsend, 1925).
In the minds of many people "Galápagos" is synonymous with tortoise, both literally
and figuratively speaking, and mental images of reptilian monsters weighing as much
as a ton are prompted by the numerous tales in historical writing about these
islands.
Thanks to the efforts of the late Dr, C.H. Townsend who visited Galápagos on
several occasions, we now have good data on the numbers of tortoises taken by
whalers in past centuries. For example, he has reported on the log-book records
of some 105 whaling ships which carried away over fifteen thousand tortoises between
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1811 and 1844, or an average of 122 tortoises per vessel! (See Townsend, 1925,
1928.) These figures by no means represent the entire take by whalers, since
during this period there were over 700 vessels In the American whaling fleet alone.
In addition there were British whalers, buccaneers, sealers, and merchantmen
who frequented Galápagos shores. As S1evin (1935:10) aptly remarked, "the slaughter
was appalling", and It has not ceased even to this day! The search for Galápagos
has been so persistent and so devastating that except on Albemarle and Indefatigable
Islands, it requires intense hunting by a person very familiar with the habits of
tortoises, to find one.
Dr. George Bauer who visited the Galápagos Islands in 1891 has remarked that
ten million tortoises any have been taken from the islands since their discovery,
a figure which this writer believes to be much too large. Townsend (1925:70)
considers It to be within "safe limits" to credit American whalers with taking not
less than one hundred thousand tortoises after 1830!
During the course of our 1937 Galápagos reconnaissance a special effort was
made to learn as much as possible about present numbers of tortoises on the various
islands where they were once known to occur in abundance.
According to the last monographer of this species (Van Denburgh,1914), tortoises

were once known to occur on tbs following 11 main islands: Abingdon, James, Jervis,
Duncan, Indefatigable, Barrington, Chatham, Hood, Charles, Narborough, sad Albe-
marle, they have never been known to occur naturally on Tower, Bindloe, Culpepper,
and Wenman islands. According to the best available Information in 1914, based
primarily on the findings of the California Academy of Sciences' expedition in
1905-06, Van Denburgh gave a "status" for each island population. These are
compared with the status as the writer considers it to be in 1957.
Island Status in 1914 Status in 1957
Abingdon rare very rare

James rare very rare or
extinct
Jervis very rare very rare or
extinct
Duncan fairly abundant rare
Indefatigable not rare fairly numerous
Barrington extinct extinct
Chatham nearly extinct very rare or
extinct
Hood very rare very rare
Charles extinct extinct
Narborough very rare unknown
(see text)
Albemarle numerous to rare numerous to
rare
It should be kept in mind that the 1957 estimates of abundance are based on
much poorer scientific evidence than those presented by Van Denburgh, but the
writer has tried to be conservative. In general our findings suggest that, for
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the most part, existing populations of tortoises are probably smaller than in
1905-06. Because of better penetration of the interior of Indefatigable Island
in 1957 than was possible in 1905-06, I think the tortoise population is greater
on this island than was suspected by the Academy expedition or as suggested by
log-book records of whaling ships. It would be scientifically valuable to learn
through intensive field work if any population of considerable size still remains
on Abingdon, James, Jervis, Chatham, and Narborough.
In the following pages I have presented a brief summary of the main

published records of the removal of tortoises from the various islands in
addition to an elaboration of the evidence, in most cases very feeble, on which
my estimate of "status in 1957" is based.
ABINGDON ISLAND
The following are the main published records of the removal of tortoises from
Abingdon Island. All records are from Townsend (1925, 1928), unless otherwise
indicated.
1822….. “Plentiful on Abingdon” 1862….. 4

(Van Denburgh, 1914:219) 1867….. 1
1832….. 8 1875….. 4 (Van Denburgh, 1914:227)
1835….. 12 1884….. 1
10 1888….. “Some” tortoise obtained
1837….. 142 1899….. none seen by Heller (1903:59)
1843….. 67 who states “probably now
1845….. 7 nearly extinct”
1847….. 1 1901….. 2 (Van Denburgh, 1914:237)
3 1905-06.. 3 (Van Denburgh, 1914:298)
1848….. 23
10
1849….. 6
5
1852….. 5
1853….. 3
1854….. 3
Van Denburgh (1914:243) designated the Abingdon Island tortoise as "rare".
Status of Abingdon tortoise in 1957. Eibl and I climbed the 2000 ft. cliffs on
the Western side of the island on 15 August and penetrated the dense vegetation
almost to the highest peak. We saw no animals but observed one or two paths of
somewhat matted underbrush suggesting the trail of a tortoise. I consider the
tortoise to be very rare, if not close to extinction on Abingdon Island.
JAMES ISLAND
James Island, all records are from Townsend (1925, 1928), unless otherwise
indicated.
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1812….. Capt. Porter’s crew loaded 1836….. 13-

one of his ships with tor- 118
toises that “would weigh 1837….. 224
about fourteen tons” (Town- 1838….. 12-
send, 1930:141) 1841….. 179
1813….. “Land tortoises are found 93
here in great abundance” 1842….. 10
(Slevin, 1935:11) 1845….. 58
1831….. 55 20
1834….. 23+ 1875….. numbers so greatly reduced
1835….. 124 they are no longer hunted
68 (Slevin, 1935:11)
35 1905-06..5 (Van Denburgh, 1914:
321-322)
Van Denburgh (I914:243) designated the James Island tortoise as "rare".
Status of James tortoise in 1957. Local tortoise hunters now consider the James
tortoise to be extinct, even though there are vast areas in the highlands, very
inaccessible because of intervening lava beds, where tortoises eight still exist.
Slevin (in Van Denburgh, 1914:321-322) writes as follows about James Island terrain:
“We went in after tortoises about five miles North-West of Sullivan Bay. The
country is extremely rough - the worst we have encountered since we arrived in
the Islands…. It was very difficult to get out the ones we did. No wonder
people don't find tortoises on James I" -our group explored only the coastal area
about James Bay and a small inlet (called "Crab Point" by local fishermen) a few
miles South c James Bay, but we found EJ signs of tortoises here. They are
probably very rare or extinct on James Island.
JERVIS ISLAND
The first and only published report of tortoise on Jervis Island is that of
Van Denburgh (1914:351-353) who described the one specimen captured by the Cali-
fornia Academy expedition in 1905-06. None has been reported since.
Status of Jervis tortoise in 1957. Our group spent two days on Jervis Island
covering such of the North-East coastal region, almost to the top of the island,
without discovering any signs of tortoise. Presumably the species is now very
rare or extinct on Jervis Island.
DUNCAN ISLAND
Duncan Island. All records are from Townsend (1925, 1928), unless otherwise
indicated.
1848….. 50 1891….. 8 (Van Denburgh, 1914:228)
1850….. 131 1897….. 29 (Van Denburgh, 1914:233)
1855….. 17 1900….. 4 (Van Denburgh, 1914:237)
1863….. 208 1901….. 5 (Van Denburgh, 1914:237)
1888….. 18 1905-06..86 (Van Denburgh, 1914:311)
1891….. 1 1923….. 1 (Beebe, 1924:224)
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We learned from the colonists at Academy Bay that in 1954 the Walt Disney
Photographic expedition discovered live tortoises on Duncan Island.
Status of Duncan tortoise in 1957. Our group searched the East slope of the
island and the top crater for tortoises but none were found. Mr. Rudolf Freund
later made two separate trips to the South slopes of the island, where the
California Academy of Sciences expedition found most of their specimens. After
much hard labour one animal was found but not without the help of Sr. Gilbert
Moncayo, son of a veteran tortoise hunter. In view of the effort expended to
locate this one animal, the tortoise on Duncan Island should be considered "rare”.
INDEFATIGABLE ISLAND
The following are tire main published records of the removal of tortoises from
Indefatigable Island. All records are from Townsend (1925), unless otherwise
indicated.
1812….. tortoises in abundance 1824-49.. “There are before me records

(Townsend, 1930) of certain whaleships that
1825…..187 (Van Denburgh, 1914: took 753 tortoises from
219) Indefatigable Island between
1833….. 44 1824 and 1849.”
1834….. 140 (Townsend, 1930:141)
12 1875….. numbers so greatly reduced
1836….. 2 to many they were no longer hunted
1845….. 45 (Slevin, 1935:11)
1848….. 36 1901….. 10-11 (Van Denburgh, 1914:237)
Heller (1903:51) states that "The form on Indefatigable has only recently
become extinct", whereas Van Denburgh (1914:243), reporting on the California
Academy of Sciences 1905-06 expedition, which obtained 46 tortoises on Indefatigable,
considers it "not rare". In 1952-53 the writer encountered a small tortoise in
the highlands North-East of Academy Bay.
Status of Indefatigable tortoise in 1957. This island has been visited less
frequently by sailors than most of the other large islands, which may help to
account for the presence of a fairly large population of tortoises to this day.
From 20-23 July 1957, our group visited the "Tortoise Country" approximately 7
miles North-West of Academy Bay, and approximately 15 hours by trail, elevation
500 feet. In this region of mid-transition zone forest there are numerous small
and large ponds and open grassy areas where we encountered 3 large tortoises, one
of which was estimated to weigh over 500 pounds by a veteran tortoise hunter,
Sr. Cecil Moncayo. Sr. Moncayo also mentioned that this was not the largest
specimen he has seen on Indefatigable Island. We found the skeletal remains of
tortoises strewn about the forest in this area, attesting to the intensity of the
slaughter of this animal for food and oil in recent years.
Mr. Freund and I discovered the skeletal remains of two tortoises in a lava
tunnel about one and a half miles North of Academy Ba. On 29 September 1957, a
small tortoise was discovered by dogs on the Kastdalen farm, approximately five
miles North of Academy Bay, elevation 750 ft. This was the first tortoise ever
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found by the Kastdalen family on their property during the 22 years of continuous
residence here. Sr. Sotamayor collected several skeletons from an area several
miles West of Tortuga Bay called "La Fe”. One of the carapaces measured almost
four feet long (linear length). In the coastal situation it is not difficult to
find live tortoises, and Sr. Sotamayor captured 5, all about one foot in length,
one of which was brought alive to Berkeley, California for study. Eibl found a
shell of a small tortoise (about 10 Inches long) which had been broken open
presumably by a pig. Sr. Sotamayor stated that pigs frequently attack tortoises
in this manner.
In view of the large extent of suitable tortoise habitat on the South and
South-West slopes of the island, it may be assumed with confidence that the
tortoises are still fairly numerous, although inroads by oil hunters on the
population are a constant threat to the species. Next to Albemarle Island,
Indefatigable Island probably has one of the largest remaining populations of
tortoise on Galápagos.
BARRINGTON ISLAND
Barrington Island.
1839…..22 (Townsend, 1925)
1853…..1 (Townsend, 1925)
The California Academy of Sciences expedition found only old eggs and tortoise
remains on Barrington Island so that Van Denburgh (1914:243) considered the
population to be extinct. In 1957 learned that colonists from Academy Bay
released two small tortoises (obtained from Indefatigable Island) on Barrington
Island. One of these was discovered by yacht people in July of the same year.
Statue of Barrington tortoise in 1957. No signs of tortoise were observed by our

group in 1957 and the species is considered to be extinct. No doubt the early
disappearance of this island population of tortoise is due to the fact that the
island la not densely covered with vegetation, making for easy penetration of the
interior, and also to the large number of feral goats which might have been food
competitors.
CHATHAM ISLAND
Chatham Island. All records are from Townsend (1925, 1928), unless otherwise
specified.
1813….. 100+ (Slevin, 1935:10) 1841….. 102

1834….. 8 1842….. 118
1836….. 20 107
1837….. 240 30
1838….. 67 1843….. 262
1840….. 59 1844….. 24
65 130
115 100
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1846….. 14 1854….. 43
190+ 1855….. 152
120 28
1847….. 100 4
4 310
100 1859….. 78
1848….. 54 70
70 1861….. 188
200 50
4 42
177 105
1849….. 130 50
1850….. 150 1863….. 208
110
1851….. 90
1852….. 107
47
1853….. 315
13
In 1875 few tortoises were reported surviving on Chatham Island (Slevin,
1935:11); and the California Academy of Sciences expedition collected only two
live animals in 1905-06 (Van Denburgh, 1914:326). The latter author (loc. cit.
p. 243) considering the Chatham Island population "nearly extinct" in 1914.
Status of Chatham tortoise in 1957. Mr. Rudolf Freund and the writer purchased
two live tortoises at Wreck Bay in October, and these animals were reportedly, taken
from Chatham Island. Since there was some reason to trust the accuracy of this
report, the island population may still be intact; but it is probably near extinction
HOOD ISLAND
Hood Island. All records are from Townsend (1925, 1928); unless otherwise indicated.
1831….. 335 1849….. 1

250 1853….. 7
86 1875….. numbers so greatly reduced
1832….. 50 they were no longer hunted
1834….. 237 (Slevin, 1935:11)
1835….. 65 1905-06..3 (Van Denburgh,
1838….. 136 1914: 315-316)
1839….. 12 1929…..2 taken by Pinchot
1840….. 45 expedition
1842….. 173 (Townsend, 1930: 142)
5
“terrapin very scare [sic]”
1843….. 100
1844….. 20
14
1846….. 7
1847….. 67
“got but few terrapin”
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Van Denburgh (1914:243) designated the Hood Island tortoise as "very rare”.
Status of Hood tortoise in 1957. Mr. Rudolf Freund purchased one small live
tortoise at Wreck Bay in October which was reported to have been taken on Hood
Island. The writer was on Hood Island on 23-24 September and 16 October, but
discovered no signs of tortoise. Sr. Gonzolo Garcia of Wreck Bay reports
tortoises still occurring on Hood, although they are very rare.
CHARLES ISLAND
The following are the main published records of the removal of tortoises
from Charles Island. All records ore from Townsend (1925, 1928), unless otherwise
Indicated.
1812….. 400-500 (Townsend, 1835….. 50
1930:141) 40
1824….. 394 1837….. 24
1828….. 100 1847….. “some terrapin”
1831….. 155 1848….. “got some terrapin”
179 1875….. Reported extinct on Charles
1832….. 226+ (Slevin, 1935:11)
1833….. 235 1882….. 3
1834….. 100
350
120
Charles Darwin who visited this island in 1835 stated that the main animal
food of the colonists was derived from the tortoise (Townsend, 1925:63). According
to the log-book records of 79 whaling ships examined by Townsend (1928:157), the
last tortoises were taken from Charles Island in 1837. Heller (1903:53) considered
the Charles Island tortoise to have been extinct since 1840, stating that the penal
colony which was established on the Island by the Ecuadorian Government in 1829 had
brought about their extermination directly because the animals were killed for fresh
meat, and indirectly, as suggested by Broom (1929:313), by the feral dogs and pigs.
Broom (1929:313) states that probably the native tortoises were extinct by 1850,
any specimens collected after that date are most likely to have been animals
brought from neighbouring islands. The California Academy of Sciences expedition
of 1905-06 obtained no specimens from Charles Island. In 1928 several barrels
full of tortoise bones were obtained from a cave (Townsend, 1928:156, Broom,
1929:313).
Status of Charles Island tortoise in 1957. Extinct.
NARBOROUGH ISLAND
Only once specimen of tortoise has been taken from Narborough Island by
scientists, and this was obtained by Rollo Deck in 1906 while leader of the
California Academy of Sciences Galápagos expedition. It has been suggested by
Townsend (1925:66) that tortoises probably were largely destroyed on this island
from time to time by lava flows and by intense heat. However, I am of the opinion
that due to the formidable expanse of lava which surrounds the green highlands,
especially in locations adjacent to anchorages, few people have been willing to
run. the risk presented by the extended trek inland to search for tortoise. The
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only other collectors known to have penetrated the interior of Narborough Island
previous to Beck were Heller and Snodgrass (1903:40) who climbed to the summit of
the crater's North rim. They observed no tortoises. Our group in 1957 climbed
the crater in essentially the same location as Heller and Snodgrass, and we did
not find any tortoises or signs of them, even inside the main crater. Presumably
the Southern slopes would be more productive since they are considerably moister,
but we were unable to extend our survey into this area. It was on the South-East
slope about 1000 feet from the rim of the crater where Beck found his only specimen.
Because no one has surveyed the most likely areas on Narborough Island where
tortoises may occur, it is impossible to formulate a status for this species on
this island. Because the green zone is quite extensive on the South-facing slope,
we might predict that a fairly large population exists there, unknown to science.
ALBEMARLE ISLAND
Albemarle Island. All records are from Townsend (192,5, 1928), unless otherwise
indicated.
1833….. 9 1857….. 13
1835….. 2 1858….. 24
67 1859….. 7
1836….. 23 1860….. 81
1838….. 8 122
1839….. 20 14
7 56+
1840….. 113 1861….. 6
1841….. 10 41
12 1862….. 95
47 63
24 1872….. 36
1842….. 64 1875….. Still abundant on the South-
36 East and of Albemarle and
10 tolerably numerous at Tagus
5 Cove (Slevin, 1935:11)
1844….. 4+ 1901…..18 (Van Denburgh, 1914:237)
9 1902….. Oil hunters as work on Villamil
1845….. 69 Mt. Southern Albemarle
150 (Slevin, 1935:11)
3 1905….. Very few large tortoises
1846….. 2 found on Villamil Mt.
1 (Slevin, 1935:11)
1848….. 75
1849….. 2
63
1851….. 2
1853….. 150
1954….. 1
1855….. 14
11
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Van Denburgh (1914:243) gives the status of the tortoise on Albemarle Island
as follows: Villamil, abundant; Iguana Cove, numerous; Tagus Cove, fairly
numerous; Banks Bay, fairly numerous; and Cowley Mt., rare.
Status of Albemarle tortoise in 1957. Our group was informed by Sr. Gonzolo Garcia
that inland from the North shore of Albemarle Island between Point Albemarle and
Cape Berkeley tortoises are still numerous. Eibl found a mummified specimen of a
newly hatched tortoise a short distance inland from Tagus Cove. Four years earlier
(1953) he found another small mummified tortoise in the same general area. Along
the ridge of the crater containing the salt water lake by Tagus Cove, I discovered
two dried droppings composed of plant material, presumably of tortoise, although
possibly of land iguana, and there were trails suggestive of those made by tortoises
in evidence here.
Mr. Freund and I saw one or two live tortoises at Wreck Bay that were being
kept as pets and which were supposed to have been found on Albemarle Island. We
were told that tortoises are still to be found in the highlands North of Villamil
in the vicinity of the penal colony, but these are quite reduced in numbers. Thus,
tortoises are still plentiful in certain localities on Albemarle Island, particular-
only those regions in the Northern port of the Island that are not readily approached
by boat. In the immediate vicinity of settlements they are very rare.
Summary of tortoise occurrences in 1957
Tortoises are still fairly plentiful on Albemarle and Indefatigable islands,

but quite rare on Duncan, Hood, Abingdon, and possibly Chatham islands, with the
status on Narborough Island undetermined.
Birds
The following are but a few of the observations on birds made during 1957.
(1) Penguin and flightless cormorant. At Pt. Espinosa, North-East corner of

Narborough Island, numerous penguins and cormorants were encountered. The penguin
was suspected of nesting in the lava crevices because of their distinctive calls
emitted in the region of the shore. Also, the writer observed copulation while
the birds were in the water, in late September. Mr. Rudolf Freund had the good
fortune to discover a nest of the penguin containing two downy young at Iguana
Cove, Albemarle Island, on 17 September. This marks the second nesting report of
this species. The first was made by Couffer (1957) at Point Espinosa in August,
1954. The writer observed nearly full grown young penguins, still covered with
grey down feathers, at a small island in Elizabeth Bay, West of Albemarle Island,
on 16 September.
The flightless cormorant was found nesting at Pt. Espinosa in September.

Several nests with downy young were scattered about the barren lava. Copulation
was observed once, and this took place on land.
(2) Galápagos pintail. In September, while our group was camped on the shore
of the crater lake, Narborough Island, we saw numerous ducks feeding on the floating
mats of green algae. Here the writer observed copulation, and other members of
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the group discovered some nests in the rushes containing eggs, and downy young
were seen on the water.
(3) Bird colonies Point Cevallos, South-East corner Hood Island.

The writer visited the bird colonies in September and October. "Courting" groups
of Albatross were noted along the coast and one mile inland near the now defunct
radar station. On both occasions half grown downy young were seen walking about.
No active nests were observed. The largest colony of masked boobies (Sula dactylatra)
encountered on Galápagos were found perched on the ocean-facing cliff at Pt. Cevallos.
No nests were found and the birds intermingled with the frigate-birds (Fregata minor)
whose nests contained half-crown young and were situated on the shrubby vegetation
close to the cliff. Nests and eggs of the fork-tailed gull (Creagrusfurcatus) and
red-billed tropic bird (Phaethon aethereus) were found along the cliff in October.
The latter nested in small wind eroded pockets in the sedimentary tuff. Pigeons
(Nesopelia) were exceedingly common and tame on Hood Island. The longest billed
form of mockingbird (Nesomimus) found on Hood Island was seen to puncture the eggs
of the fork-tailed gull when the adult bird was frightened from the nest.
(4) Bird colonies at "Darwin Bay", Tower Island. When our group visited this
bird "sanctuary” in August, we found large numbers of frigate-birds (Fregata minor)
and boobies nesting. Three species of booby were present: the commonest was the
red-footed (Sula piscator), the blue-footed (Sula nebouxii), masked (Sula dactylatra)
species in much fewer numbers; all three species were nesting (i.e. with eggs or
young). No nests of the frigate-bird were found containing eggs, but many had young
of various ages from about one week old to nearly fully fledged birds. None of the
adult males were seen to inflate the gular pouch, although members of the yacht
"Utopia" reported seeing inflated pouches at this same locality in the proceeding
month, according to Beebe (1924:319) an inflated pouch is correlated with an empty
nest whereas a deflated pouch is correlated with an egg in the nest. As on Hood
Island, the pigeons were exceedingly tame and abundant on Tower Island.
(5) Finches. Of special interest to the writer were the finches, which group
he had studied in considerable detail in 1952-53, chiefly at Academy Bay. The
present reconnaissance permitted him to become acquainted with all the species, and
the following were encountered for the first time in 1957: Geospizaconirostris,
Geospizadifficilis, Camarhynchuspauper, and Cactospizaheliobates.
Geospizaconirostriswas found to be very common on Hood Island, and less

abundant on Tower Island. Among the finches of Tower Island, Geospizadifficilis
is second in abundance to Certhideaolivacea.
David Lack in 1938-39, and the writer in 1952-53 did not encounter Geospiza
difficilis on Indefatigable Island, from Academy Bay inland to Fortuna, in which
region they were observed as late as 1935 by Harry Swarth of the California Academy
of Sciences. Extensive searching and collecting in all sections of Indefatigable
Island failed to turn up this species, which is now, presumably extinct. The
existence of a large population of Geospizadifficilis (race undetermined as yet)
on Narborough Island was established in September 1957. Previously this species
was recorded with some uncertainty from this island (see Swarth, 1931:181, and
Lack, 1947:20).
On a four hour long walk into the highlands of Charles Island from Black Beach,
during a rainstorm, the writer collected several examples of Camarhynchuspauper,
WS/0960.88
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which species occurred sympatrically with C. psittacula and C. parvulus in the

dense forest tangle of introduced guava and lemon trees. While returning to the
beach the writer spotted a large-billed Geospiza, which he shot at very close range.
This specimen is, without a doubt, assignable to Geospizamagnirostris. Further-
more, some of its bill dimensions overlap with those collected by Charles Darwin
in 1835. There has been such uncertainty about the exact locality from which
Darwin obtained his exceedingly large-billed specimens, i.e. Charles, Chatham, or
James island (see Swarth, 1931:146-150). Swarth thinks it unlikely that Darwin's
specimens could have come from Charles Island since no large-billed finches have
since been found upon this island. With this "re-discovery" of G. magnirostris
on Charles Island, and especially an individual that is so large in bill dimensions,
there is good reason to think, contrary to the views of Swarth (loc. cit.), that
Darwin probably did collect hie specimens on Charles Island, as he implies in his
Journal.
(6) Rails.On the basis of information related to me by Mr. Alf Kastdalen

and specimens obtained in 1953 and 1957, it is now firmly established that two
species of rail are resident on Indefatigable Island.
In the grasslands stop the island the black rail (Laterallusspilonotus)

was seen and a specimen in formalin obtained for me by Alf KastdalenI. In 1953
I collected two individuals of a somewhat larger red-legged rail, clearly referable
to the species Neocrexerythrops, hitherto unreported on Galápagos.
(7) Flamingos. Fourteen birds were observed by the group in 1957, as

follows:
James Island
James Bay, Crater Lake, 1 August, 2 birds.

James Bay, Lagoon, 1 August, 5 birds.
Indefatigable Island
Conway Bay, Lagoon, 4 August, 2 birds.

Tortuga Bay, Lagoon, 12 October, 5 birds.
Mr. Freund reported seeing a captive bird at Villamil, Albemarle Island in
September.
(8) Larusfuliginosus. To the disappointment of the Writer we did not obtain

any evidence to indicate the whereabouts of the breeding grounds of the lava gull,
whose eggs and nest are still unknown to science.
Bobolink. One immature bird was given to the writer by Mr. Alf Kastdalen who
found it dead on their farm located approximately 5 miles North of Academy Day,
elevation 750 feet. Mr. Kastdalen has observed adult birds on the farm during
August and September of 1957. Swarth (1931:136) lists the three previous records
of this species for Galápagos. This is the first report of this species on
Indefatigable island.
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Mammals
(l) Native rodents. The following species of rodents have been reported from
the Galápagos Islands (Orr, 1938:303-304):
Oryzomysgalapagoensis - Chatham Island
Oryzomysbauri - Barrington Island
Nesoryzomysindefessus - Indefatigable and South Seymour

" narboroughi - Narborough Island
" darwini - Indefatigable Island
" swarthi - James Island
Oryzomysbauri was found to be exceedingly common on Barrington Island in

September and October when both snap and live traps were set along a dry wash
leading from the North-East corner of the island.
Nesoryzomysnarboroughi was trapped at Pt. Espinosa on lava beside clumps of

Cereusnesioticus on which the animals fed. It was also common on the rim of the
crater (4150 ft.) beneath Scalesia trees, and along the edge of the crater lake
(2325 ft.) in the rushes.
(2) Introduced rodents. The following species of introduced rodents have been
recorded on Galápagos (see Heller, 1903:235-238):
Rattusrattusrattus - Albemarle, Duncan, Chatham islands

""alexandrinus - Albemarle, James, Charles
islands
Musmusculus - Chatham Island
Through field observations and trappings I have recorded R. r. rattus on

Duncan Island in July, R. r. alexandrinus at Academy Bay and inland from July to
October, and Musmusculus on Indefatigable Island (July), Charles Island (September),
South Seymour Island (July).
Heller (1904:236) states that "In no locality in the archipelago do any species
of Mus /Rattus and Mus/ occur with the indigenous species of Oryzomys and Nesoryzomys.
This is probably due to the extermination of these latter species by hardier
introduced forms of Mus, and by cats."
On Charles Island, approximately three miles East of Black Beach, 1300 ft., on
20 September, I observed numerous house mice running around the forest floor in the
middle of the day (sky overcast, rain falling) quite undisturbed by my presence.
Along the main trail to the highlands from Academy Bay I frequently saw Rattus
running between the crevices in the lava, and frequently one would find a sickly
or dying animal on the trail. The population of Rattus and Mus was so high that
all traps in a line of ten would catch one, and sometimes two animals, for two
nights in succession! About three years ago the residents began setting out
poisoned bait (‘ten-eighty” poison on bananas) in an effort to reduce the rodent
population. This action, seemingly, has had little effect on the rodent population
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but has brought about a remarkable decrease in the feral house cats as well as the
local pet dogs and cats. This in turn may help to account for the increase in
the wild snake population around Academy Bay.
Mr. Freund and I picked up many skulls of a small rodent, possibly Nesoryzomys
darwini from a lava tunnel about 1 1/2 miles North of Academy Bay, Indefatigable
Island. However, no native rodents were trapped on this island in 1957.
(3) Feral animals. So far as the writer is aware there is no published report
in which an organized account of the distribution of escaped domestic animals is
given. On the basis of our observations and information obtained from local
residents, we learned that at present (1957) donkeys, goats, cattle, pigs, and cats
are running wild on the islands of Indefatigable, Chatham, Charles, and Albemarle.
James Island has the same complement except that it lacks cattle and possibly also
cats. Albemarle possesses wild dogs, and these may also be present on Chatham and
Charles. They are now apparently extinct on Indefatigable Island (last reported
in 1935). Hood and Barrington islands support large populations of goats. South
Seymour Island once had many goats but these seem to have been killed off completely
with the building of the military base in 1942. Duncan, Jervis, Abingdon, Bindloe,
Tower, South Seymour, and Narborough islands are presently free of feral animals.
(4) Fur seal (Arctocephalusaustralis). Townsend (1934:47) has published a

compilation of some of the seal catches on Galápagos, and the following is a
summary of his data:
1816………. 8,000
1825………. 5,000
1843………. 14 (Narborough)
1872-1880…. 6,000
1880………. 261 (Culppeper, Albemarle, Narborough,
Tower, Bowman)
1882………. 800
1885………. 1,000
1887………. 1,200
1897-1899.... 224
1906………. 1
1932-1933.... 8
______
22,508
The history of the reduction of the Galápagos fur seal, of which the foregoing
records are but a partial indication, has been similar to that of the Guadalupe
Island seal, namely, the unrestricted slaughter of male and female, old and young
alike, whenever and wherever found. The history furnishes further proof of the fact
that the fur seals cling to their ancestral and accustomed breeding grounds, that the
re -establishment of the species would undoubtedly result from a complete protection
of these places and the result would be the building up of a valuable seal fishery
for the future (see Townsend, 1899:272-273).
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Heller (1904:247) states that the fur seal is so reduced in numbers and
so scattered that no well defined rookies exist.
In 1932-33, Capt. G. Allan Hancock of Los Angeles discovered a small group

of fur seals on Tower Island and brought several back to the United States.
Since 1906 it was feared that the fur seal was doomed to imminent extermination
(Townsend, 1934:43)
In 1957 our group first encountered fur seals on 3 August on the West side of
James Island between Point Boquerizo and the South and of James Bay on the outer
rocky coast. Here we observed and photographed males and females of a herd as they
sunned on the lava. Potholes on the lava connected by underwater tunnels to the
open ocean, were the favourite protected haunts of the fur seal. They were
extremely tame and they could be approached to within 1-2 feet. Most of the herd
was loafing in the water and we estimated that there were about 100 animals in all
at this location.
On the West side of Abingdon Island on l4 August, Eibl and I observed 2 fur
seals at theland of a sandy beach, somewhat removed from a small herd of sea lions.
They too were very tame.
(5) Sea lion (Zalophuswollebaeki). Sea lions are still very common on
Galápagos and our group encountered herds and individuals on nearly all the islands
visited, namely, Indefatigable, Plaza, Chatham, Barrington, Hood, Gardner-near-Hood,
Duncan, Jervis, James, Albemarle, and Narborough.
At Barrington and Plaza we found numerous carcasses of seals whose fate was
easily discerned by examination of the head region. A large number of animals are
slaughtered by some of the local fishermen mostly for their pelts, but some killings
would appear to be acts of sadism.
Tuna fishermen kill bulls in areas where bait is to be netted, but this is done
for reasons of self protection.
In spite of the constant drain on the sea lion population by these two causes,
the species appears to be "holding its own" and in no real danger.
(6) Other mammals. Large numbers of porpoises were observed on several

occasions while travelling between islands. No whales were seen. The red bat
(Lasiurusbrachyotis) was noted by the writer only at Academy Bay in 1952-53 and
again in 1957. The largest flock contained 7 individuals.
Summary
On the basis of our observations during 1957 (July to November) the following
animals are in greatest need of protection from further decimation of their numbers
by hunters:
1. Tortoise - especially on Hood, Duncan, Abingdon, and possibly also on

Chatham islands; the populations on Indefatigable and Albemarleislands although
higher than on the proceeding islands, are decreasingat an alarming rate due to hunting.
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(2) Landiguana - especially on Indefatigable Island where but a very small

colony is known to survive.
(3) Fur seal - wherever found.
Although the native vegetation should be maintained in its natural condition

wherever possible, there is an urgent need to set aside certain areas on the South-
facing slope of Indefatigable Island, where a unique ecological condition exists,
in order that total destruction is not affected by the rapidly expanding agriculture
The following accomplishments by the 1957 reconnaissance group are worthy of

special note:
1. Procurement of the second-known sample of ScalesiaHelleri on Indefatigable

Island.
2. Penetration of the North-Eastern interior of Narborough Island descent to

the edge of the crater lake, and exploration of the island volcano
in the crater lake.
3. Discovery of a species of freshwater fish (Labrisomus) from the crater lake

of Narborough Island.
4. Discovery of two species of fish (Philypnus maculatus and electric pictus)

from freshwater ponds near Academy Bay, first reports of these species
from the Galápagos Island.
5. Rediscovery of a population of land iguanas on Indefatigable Island

where the species was considered extinct.
6. Rediscovery of Darwin's Geospizamagnirostrison Charles Island from where

it has not been reported since Darwin's visit in 1835.
7. Discovery of a large population of Geospizadifficilis on Narborough Island

(race not yet determined).
8. Discovery of snakes (Dromicus) on Chatham and Bartholomew islands.
9. Discovery of the nest of the Galápagos penguin at Iguana Cove.
10. Obtained the second known observation of a sea-snake in Galápagos waters.
11. Discovery of a fairly large herd of fur seal on James Island.
CHAPTER 4. SPECIAL PROBLEMS OF WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT IN GALÁPAGOS
Tuna fishery.
Economically, the Galápagos region is an extremely important

territory for the Ecuadorian Government because of the sizable tuna fishery,
developed largely by California fishermen; There has been little or no regulation
WS/0960.88
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of the tuna catch by the Ecuadorians based on evidence obtained by modern scientific
methods. Tuna fishermen report that large schools of fish are now uncommon and
fishing effort has increased considerably in recent years. No doubt this is
largely due to past over-utilization of this resource. Tuna boats from California
are now extending their search into Peruvian waters to the South-East.
Ecuador has claimed that the waters for a 200 mile radius around the Galápagos
Islands come under their territorial Jurisdiction, which decision has not been
recognized by many tuna boats. As a result there have been numerous "incidents"
between the Ecuadorian patrol boats and the tuna boats. It was reported to us that
an undetermined number of California tuna boats failed to procure Ecuadorian permits
for fishing in "Ecuadorian" waters. Understandably, this action has antagonized
the Ecuadorian Government, which now patrols Galápagos waters with speedy boats.
The latter action has not been entirely effective because of the fact that many of
the tuna boats carry their own amphibious airplane on board ship, which is used
to "spot" schools of tuna as well as the government patrol boat.
It may be hoped that with the establishment of a research station on Galápagos

better co-operation between the tuna fishermen and the Ecuadorian, Government will be
possible and that a scientific tuna fishery investigation might be initiated.
Poaching.
Illegal hunting by the local people of tortoises, land iguanas,

flamingos, fur seals, and sea lions for food and pelts is so serious in some cases
to warrant immediate action by the Ecuadorian authorities to put a halt to this.
A. Tortoises: Reduction of the remaining herds of tortoises on Indefatigable

Island is proceeding at an alarming rate. Local hunters make frequent visits to the
tortoise habitat, slaughtering the animals for food (oil and liver), sometimes bringing
back alive individuals for pets or for sale to tourists. The shells or the
skinned-out feet of tortoises are often sold to yachtsmen as souvenirs.
As long as cooking fat remains in short supply, tortoises are going to be

hunted. The green sea turtle is now intensively hunted for its fat. Unfortunately,
the wild pigs are rarely fat, and domestic hog production is far behind the local
demands for pork fat.
B. Fur seals and sea lions: These marine mammals are killed for their pelts
which can be sold on the Ecuadorian mainland. In the case of the fur seal whose
numbers are presently very low, complete protection of the existing herds from
hunting, is essential to the survival of the species. In the case of the sea lion,
the habit of killing all individuals in a colony is to be discouraged. A limited
harvest of sea lions, and possibly, in future, of the fur seal, may be feasible,
provided it is done on the advice of competent biologists with governmental
approval.
C. Land iguanas: These lizards axe still slaughtered for food and hides.
It is probably true that a controlled harvest of some of the large land Iguana
herds, such as are found on Barrington Island, might be feasible. However, there
is at present no way by which such a scheme could be effectively administered, and
therefore it should be completely discouraged. Furthermore, it is the opinion of
this writer that every effort should be made to prevent economic encroachment on
WS/0960.88
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Galápagos species, and to maintain as much of the Galápagos biota as possible in an

undisturbed state, as part of a National Park system.
D. Flamingos: The Galápagos population of flamingos is by no means large but

no accurate estimate of the total population is available. Due to the aesthetic
attractiveness at this species, individuals are occasionally maintained in captivity.
For some undetermined reason, some local people have taken a liking to flamingo
flesh and hunt the bird for food.
Poaching of Galápagos vertebrates is so easily carried out because (1) there

is no effective means of enforcing the law, (2) there is little appreciation of
wildlife by local residents, and (3) the wild animals are so extremely tame.
Introduction of foreign species.
Of all the feral domestic stock at large

on the various Galápagos islands, the house cat, the dog, and the pig are the
most destructive of the native animals. Dogs and pigs are said to be most
destructive of tortoises (Heller, 1903:52), which species dig up the eggs and eat
the young. Eibl found the shell of a small tortoise from which the carapace had been
partially eaten away, presumably by a pig. It is doubtful that the native predators
such as the land iguana, which Darwin reported dig up the eggs of the tortoise and
devours them, or the Buteo hawk, which Heller (1903:53) states eats the young when
just issuing from the eggs, are any real menace to the tortoise population with which
they have lived successfully for untold centuries.
The wild dogs have been accused of destroying both eggs and adults of the land
iguana (Heller, 1903:85) and may be responsible for the near extinction of this
species on James and Indefatigable Islands.
The cats may be responsible for the extermination of the native rats on certain
islands, but it is likely that the introduced species of Rattus and Mus have played
an equally, if not more important role (see Heller, 1904:236). With the decline
in the cat population on Indefatigable Island in recent years due to poisoning,
the native snake has reappeared in considerable numbers. Many wild cats are still
present on Charles Island, and Van Denburgh (1913:164) believes that their preda-
tory habits are responsible for the scarcity of the lava lizards and perhaps also
the marine iguanas.
The introduced rats and mice are causing very serious agricultural problems
in the highlands. It has not been possible to grow such fruits as pineapple, and
untold quantities of bananas, citrus, fruit, corn, potatoes, etc. have been destroyed
by these ubiquitous rodents. Large-scale poisoning on Indefatigable Island has
been unsuccessful in reducing the rodent population, although it seems to have
effectively controlled the population of feral cats, which, ironically, are
effective predators of rats and mice! Uninhabited regions are so extensive and
their rodent productivity so great, that in all probability there will be little
success from very local poisoning campaigns.
Wild goats are most plentiful in the coastal regions where they feed on the
cactus pulp, leaves of trees and shrubs, and herbs. Dr. Charles Rick, student of
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Galápagos tomatoes would account in part for the scarcity of these plants in the
coastal regions of many islands because of browsing by goats. At present on
Indefatigable Island tomato plants can be found almost only on cliffs inaccessible
to goats. These versatile animals are not infrequently seen climbing in trees
(mangroves) or shrubs (Cordia) in their search for palatable food.
Where available the wild donkeys and cattle prefer the moister regions of the
interior highlands. Their grazing has had devastating effects on such plants as
tree ferns.
The wild goats, cattle, pigs, and, to a limited extent, donkeys and chickens,
serve as a ready source of fresh meat, and the importance of these animals to the
local people for this purpose should not be underestimated.
Many wild cattle are chipped alive from Galápagos (principally Albemarle
Island) to the Ecuadorian mainland for food. The take of wild cattle for civilian
use on the islands is regulated by the marines. They appoint an official hunter
who must give half the meat from each animal to the marines, and the remainder he
is permitted to sell to the civilian population.
In relation to the size of the wild population of goats, pigs, and donkeys,
more animals should be killed by the colonists, even if not used as food, since
their large numbers are making deep inroads on the native vegetation. If suitable
refrigeration equipment could be installed on the inhabited islands, it would be
possible to avoid the high percentage of waste of fresh meat and would assure
a constant supply throughout the year.
It would be highly profitable for a biologist to study the natural history and
productivity of the feral animals in order to determine to what extent they could
be harvested for commercial purposes, and whether it would be feasible to effect
total extinction of certain species on islands where they are no longer desirable.
Certain introduced species of plants, if not carefully controlled, may over-

run the native vegetation. This has happened already in dramatic fashion on
Charles Island where the guava and lemon trees have, in certain areas, almost
completely obliterated the native Scalesia and Psidium trees.
On Indefatigable Island an introduced species of leguminous vine is used to

clear the dense Scalesia forest preparatory to planting with agricultural species.
Once the vine has “choked off” the native species, the cattle are turned into the
area to feed on the vine. The remaining stumps and skeletons of trees are then
cleared away, mostly by burning. Seeds of this vine have been accidentally scattered
in areas unsuitable for agriculture, and the once local devastating effects are now
spreading rapidly beyond the farming communities.
Expanding agriculture.
As more colonists arrive on the habitable islands of

Chatham, Charles, Indefatigable, and Albemarle (James is not presently inhabited
but is suitable), new problems of protection of the native wildlife will be
experienced. Many Ecuadorian peasants realise a much better living on Galápagos
than on the mainland. On Indefatigable Island, for example, productivity of potatoes
and coffee is outstanding. Three crops of potatoes can be obtained in a year.
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Coffee bushes three year old produce twice as much fruit on Galápagos as compared
to the best mainland production. Potatoes and coffee are the main export products
of the farmers. Dried grouper is the chief fishery export.
Reports of successful farming in the moist highlands of the larger islands

have stimulated much interest on the Ecuadorian mainland so that emigration to
Galápagos is steadily increasing year by year. New colonization projects, under
the encouragement of the federal government have placed under cultivation, hundreds
of hectares of land to the West of the present farming community of Fortuna on
Indefatigable Island, and encroach on the last remaining ideal tortoise habitat.
The need for firewood has forced the colonists to cull from the forests the
only native hardwoods, guayavillo(Psidium galapageium) and matazarno (Piscidia
Piscipula), which species are now very scarce in some areas.
Inasmuch as none of the local trees are too suitable for building, efforts are
now being directed to cultivating exotic species such as Eucalyptus and mahogany
and balsa, which do remarkably well in the moist highlands on Indefatigable Island.
Tourism.
Recent efforts on the part of Ecuadorian businessmen to develop

Galápagos as a tourist attraction (see page 5) are meeting with some success.
Certain interests are apparently anxious to develop an hotel site on Indefatigable
Island, and Tortuga Bay appears to be a likely choice. It is reported that the
Government is offering to help these interests by constructing a road between
Academy Bay on the South side of the island, and the North side of the island
opposite South Seymour Island, where the large airstrip is located. If and when
such a road is completed, Indefatigable Island will be most accessible to tourists
with the inevitable concomitant transformations in the local scenery and biota.
It may be truthfully said that the tourist who does not have a naturalist's
heart or who is unwilling to hike over uneven terrain will find little of interest
in the Galápagos Islands, aside from distant views of lava fields, forbidding
cliffs, wild anchorages in half submerged craters, and other volcanic phenomena.
Galápagos is chiefly of interest to the nature enthusiast.
Scientific collecting.
Galápagos animals are in great demand by research

museums and zoological gardens throughout the world. It is within the realm of
possibility that overzealous collecting by museums and zoos could actually
threaten with extinction such animals as flamingos, penguins, flightless
cormorants, albatross, etc,, whose numbers are not very great and whose breeding
and roosting stations are quite restricted. Therefore, it is desirable that in
the near future all permits authorising the collecting of Galápagos animals be
reviewed by a central agency, such as a research station on Galápagos. So as to
avoid needless duplication of specimens in research museums it would be advisable
to prepare a complete index to existing Galápagos collections, thus clearly
indicating areas and species in need of further sampling. Such an index would
be fairly easy to compile since the bulk of Galápagos specimens are housed in
a few large museums.
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CHAPTER 5. SUGGESTIONS FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE GALÁPAGOS BIOTA AND

SCENIC AREAS
As a first step in the preservation of the Galápagos biota, it will be

necessary to set aside special areas, here designated as "wildlife reserves,"
in which the willful destruction, disturbance, or removal of any of the naturally
occurring objects is prohibited by law, except as allowed for scientific and
educational purposes. Equally important is the complete exclusion of human
habitations from such areas. This latter requirement should not conflict with
the limited opportunities for colonization inasmuch as the suggested reserves are,
in the main, apart from existing human habitations. Thus, for example, no reserves
are recommended for Chatham, Charles, or the Southern portion of Albemarle islands,
where, at present, settlements occur. In the case of Indefatigable Island, the
Western half is as yet undeveloped for agriculture, and since it is the home of the
last remaining population of tortoise on this island, and one of the largest remain-
ing in the entire Archipelago, it should be set aside as a reserve. There is still
much arable land to be developed by colonists in the Eastern part of the island.
So that important elements of the Galápagos biota will not be destroyed in

areas not specifically set aside as reserves, it is also necessary to prohibit
generally the wanton destruction of the native animals. It is realized that this
stipulation will be difficult to apply, but some attempt should be made to bring
the principle of wildlife protection close to the local people in order that they
will not get the mistaken impression that nothing of value remains in these non-
reserve areas.
Special areas for birds
The following areas have been selected primarily because they support an
unusual bird fauna.
(1) Hood Island. The only nesting site of the Galápagos Albatross is located
on the South-East corner of Hood Island in the region of Pt. Cevallos, and inland
to the remains of the radar installation. Large concentrations of masked boobies,
frigate-birds, fork-tailed gulls, and red-billed tropic birds, also occur here.
A small population of tortoise is reported to occur on this island. Some of the
longest-billed forms of the mockingbird are to be found here, and Geospizaconirostris
is plentiful here, as is the Galápagos snake. One of the longest coral sand beaches
on Galápagos is situated on the North shore of the island opposite Gardner-near-Hood
I3land.
(2) Tower Island. Large numbers of blue-footed and red-footed boobies nest on
this island, as do frigate-birds and fork-tailed gulls. One of the largest-billed
populations of Geospizaconirostris is found on Tower Island. The mangrove bordered
crater lake in the centre of the island and "Darwin Day" on the South shore are very
Picturesque.
(3) Narborough Island. The bulk of the penguin and flightless cormorant popu-
lation nests on this island, which also supports an exceedingly large population of
land and marine iguanas as well as the native rat (Nesoryzomysnarboroughi). The
spectacular scenery from the rim of the 5000 ft. high central crater is almost
unsurpassed in Galápagos. The presence of hot sulphur springs and vast barren lava
fields, makes this island geologically very interesting. Tortoises are probably still
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extant on the South-facing slope of the island, and a freshwater fish is now known
to occur in the crater lake.* There are no introduced species of rodents of
domestic animals and plants on Narborough Island which is, therefore, as close to
its virgin state as any island in the whole archipelago.
(4) Culpepper Island. Although this "rock" is not an inviting spot for
humans, it is, nevertheless a favourite nesting and roosting site for hundreds
of seabirds, including boobies, noddies, sooty torn, shearwaters, and petrels.
It is also the most Northerly outpost of the Galápagos Islands.
Special areas for tortoises
(1) Indefatigable Island. Every effort should be made to bring about an end
to the slaughter of tortoises for any purpose whatsoever an all islands where they
still occur, but especially in the Western half of Indefatigable Island where the
last remaining herds still occur. It is suggested that all land lying West of a
line running from Tortuga Bay on the South, to the North shore of the island
opposite Daphne Island, should be set aside as a tortoise reserve, with the
understanding that none of it will be opened to agriculture. This still leaves
vast tracts of arable land on Indefatigable Island available for colonists. Such
a reserve would also assure the preservation of a continuous vegetational transect
of the island from sea level to elevations over 2500 ft., including all the known
vegetation zones to be found on this island. By locating the research station on
Indefatigable Island and preferably at Tortuga Bay (see Chapter 7) it would be
practical to attempt complete protection of the tortoises in this reserve.
(2) Duncan Island. Tortoises are still present on this island and could regain
their former abundance under complete protection.
(3) Abingdon Island. Presumably, a few tortoises still survive on this Island,
therefore it should be set aside as a tortoise reserve.
(4) Albemarle Island. Next to Indefatigable Island, Albemarle probably

supports more tortoises than any other island today. All of this island from Perry
Isthmus Northward should be set aside as a tortoise reserve, and efforts made to
stop tortoise hunters still active in the Southern part of the island.
Special areas for land iguanas
(1) Barrington Island. This island is a stronghold for land iguanas rind goats.
The former, a morphologically distinct population, is still common in spite of
reported mass killings by local hunters. (See p.17).
(2) Islas Plaza. These two small islands on the East side of Indefatigable
Island are the home of a small population of pinkish-coloured land iguanas, Sea
lions, petrels, fork-tailed gulls, are also common here. The island presents
some Interesting geological formations.
_______________
*Since this writing word has been received that the crater lake has disappeared.
In place of the lake there is a dry crater bottom with sulphurous fumes rising
everywhere. An attempt was made by one group to cross the crater bottom in 1959
but the lava was tco hot and the attempt had to be abandoned. There are near
constant rumblings.
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(3) Narborough Island. This island, already recommended as a bird reserve,

probably supports more land iguanas than any other island in the archipelago and
therefore should be included among those intended as iguana reserve.
Special areas for habitat diversity
One area stands out above all others in the Galápagos Archipelago in its
offering of diverse habitat types, namely, Tortuga Bay, Indefatigable Island.
The following habitats are to be found in the immediate vicinity of the bay:
exposed rocky coast, protected rocky coast, exposed sand beach (about 3/k mile
long), protected sand beach, mud flats, mangroves, lagoon, brackish pools, giant
cactiforests, sand dunes, barren lava rock, etc.
If the proposed research station is to be established at Tortuga Bay (as is

suggested in a later chapter), then it would be desirable to create a “buffer"
strip of land between it and the settlement at Academy Bay, which is located about
one and a half miles to the East. It is suggested that this strip should start at
the Westernmost cliffs of Academy Bay, and extend for about one mile inland from
the outer coast, running Westward until it meets with the Eastern boundary of the
proposed tortoise reserve on this Island (see above).
Special areas of geological interest and scenic beauty
(1) James Island. James Bay represents a unique mixture of young lava flows,
sand beach, wind and water eroded volcanic tuff, mangrove bordered lagoons, crater
lake, veldt, etc. The Eastern side of the island, especially in the area opposite
Bartholomew Island is one of the best examples of "moon-like" landscapes in the
whole archipelago. It is also possible that tortoises may still occur in the
moister regions of James Island which includes several peaks over 2000 ft. high.
(2) Bartholomew Island. One of the most scenic bays ("Tower Bay") is found on
the East side of this small island. From its highest peak, one has a magnificent
panorama of pastel-coloured extinct volcanoes and sapphire blue waters.
(3) Daphne Island (Major). This near perfect crater island serves as a nursery
for large numbers of blue-footed boobies which are hatched on the floor of the crater.
(4) Point Moreno, Albemarle Island. On the South shore of Elizabeth Bay near
Pt. Moreno, and North of Iguana Cove, there is a region of rugged coast which has some
outstanding examples of volcanic craters. In the immediate vicinity of the old radar
installation, approximately two square miles in extent, the writer counted from a
boat no less than three hundred craters.
At various points in the Galápagos Archipelago volcanic eruptions or disturbances

have been reported in recent years. The following is an incomplete listing of these:
1825. In Morrell’s graphic account of an eruption of the Narborough volcano,

he records the temperature of the air where his ship lay becalmed and
in great danger, at 147 degrees and of the sea water, 150 degrees
/Fahrenheit/ (Townsend, 1925:66).
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1846. The log of the bark "Equator" reported Narborough Island volcano
in eruption. "Being up in Weather Bay, well over on Narborough
side, the volcano is in awful operation at present. There is one
large cone which is like a large boiling pot which is boiling
over. The red lava covers a field of 5 or 6 miles, which is a
great illumination in the night."
1888. The Narborough volcano as seen by the member of the U.S.S.

"Albatross" was emitting smoke but not otherwise in activity.
(Townsend, 1925:66)
1906. "Beck went to the summit of the island /Bindloe/ and: found a few
small steam holes n iaction." (Slevin, 1931:147)
1927. "Along the shore /of Narborough Island/ members of the expedition
found thousands of fish killed by the heat steam, sulphurous
sedimentation or sub-sea disturbance." (Meredith, 1939:184)
1953. Eruption on South Albemarle. (Richards, 1954)
I954. Elevation of the shoreline in the region of Elizabeth Bay,

Albemarle Island, reported by the Walt Disney Photographic
expedition.
1957. Eruption on North and of Albemarle Island during October, 1957

("El Telégrafo", Guayaquil, 31 October 1957).
Defacement of landscape
Eagerness on the part of many yachtsmen to "immortalize" their ship to

Galápagos, has brought about a brash of painting on cliffs adjacent to anchorages.
In this manner, several beautiful bays, such as Darwin Bay (Tower Island) and
Tagus Cove (Albemarle Island), and others, have been marred. Inasmuch as people
who indulge in such defacement leave such a conspicuous trail behind them, it
would be a relatively simple matter to "catch up" with them and serve a fine
sufficient to discourage future activity of this sort In Galápagos. The money
thus obtained would be used to remove the eyesore.
The crater floor on Bartholomew Island has been cluttered up with the names
of yachts "spelled out" in large lava boulders.
Notification of intention to prosecute any person who defaces the Galápagos

landscape could be posted in conspicuous places along the shores of the principal
anchorages.
Patrol activities
Since Ecuador already maintains a patrol boat In Galápagos mainly for the
chief purpose of intercepting tuna boats, it might be possible to utilize this
same boat to check on the activities of local fishermen and yachtsmen.
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Scientific collecting
Wildlife reserves afford an exceptionally fine field laboratory for

scientific investigations. Under the control of a centralized agency, permits
should be issued authorizing the Limited collecting of plants, animals, rocks,
etc. for scientific and educational purposes. It is one of the purposes of a
research station on Galápagos to encourage scientific investigations in this
most interesting area, and also to preserve as much of the biota as possible in
its natural state for future generations to enjoy.
Release of exotic species on Galápagos
Every effort must be made to prohibit the introduction of foreign species

of plants and animals into areas designated as wildlife reserves, even in areas
where feral species already occur. It should be determined if it is feasible,
by means of chemical or biological control, to exterminate those exotic forms
which can be demonstrated to endanger the existence of indigenous forms.
Until such time as specialists are able to study the problem, the trans-
plantation of native species from one island to another should be prohibited,
in order that the already confused ecological picture be not further disrupted.
CHAPTER 6. FACTORS DETERMINING THE FEASIBILITY OF A RESEARCH STATION ON

THE GALAPÁGOS ISLAND
Transportation
(1) Boats. Up to the present time one of the main obstacles in the way of
scientists wishing to study on Galápagos has been the lack of adequate trans-
portation facilities. By this I mean regular scheduled sailings of passenger
ships equipped to provide accommodation equivalent to "tourist class" in America
and Europe, as well as tested life-saving equipment.
Ecuador operates a wooden-hulled naval vessel between Guayaquil and Galápagos

at irregular intervals, usually every two to three months. This ship, called
"El Oro", stops at the five main island ports, namely, Wreck Bay (Chatham Island),
Baltra Island, Academy Bay (Indefatigable Island), Villamil (Albemarle Island),
and Black Beach (Charles Island), "El Oro" is not equipped to carry many passengers,
but it seems to do so on most of its trips to the islands. In November, 1957, it
carried 70 passengers to the mainland, most of whom were required to sleep on the
open deck adjacent to domestic animals. Cleanliness is not one of the virtues of
this ship and never has been (see Conway and Conway, 1947), but since it is the
only boat provided by the Government, colonists are obliged to tolerate its
conditions. Servicing of the naval installations on the islands is the main
purpose of its sailings, although the ship carries limited supplies for colonists,
however not including such highly flammable fluids as white gasoline or airplane
fuel. Privately operated ships occasionally visit the islands, bringing supplies
for the colonists, and returning with cargoes of fish, coffee, and potatoes.
Such boats have operated under government subsidy until August 1957. Food and accom-
modation on board these privately operated ships is conspicuously better than on the
Government boat.
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(2) Airplanes. The four members of the Galápagos mission were privileged to
fly to Galápagos via Government owned "Catalina". This flying boat, of which
Ecuador owns two, operates with a crew of five and is capable of carrying about
8 passengers with a small amount of baggage. Our flying time from Guayaquil to
Galápagos was approximately five hours at a cruising speed of 110 miles per hour.
Were this aircraft to land on the water operations would be greatly facilitated
at the destination. The plane is landed on the airstrip on South Seymour (Baltra)
Island where passengers transfer to a boat. By special arrangement the Government
ship "El Oro" awaited the arrival of our group at Baltra Island and carried us
directly to Academy Bay in four hours. We were told that Government Catalinas
make very infrequent trips to Galápagos. The last of these was about one and a
half years previously. This may be partly due to maintenance difficulties.
In 1957, a commercial airline company named "Ecuatoriana" was formed which

was interested in initiating monthly airplane service (using a "DC-3") between
Guayaquil and Galápagos. It is doubtful if such service is economically feasible.
At any rate one may safely predict that few residents of the islands could afford
the minimum fare (estimated between 500 and 1000 sucres = approx. 30-60 U.S.
dollars) for a one-way passage.
In conclusion, it is suggested that the Galápagos Islands could be made more

attractive to scientists by maintaining a regularly scheduled boat and/or airplane
service between them and the mainland. At present, delays of one to two months
are of not infrequent occurrence and discourage even the most patient of scientists.
Communications
(1) Radio. The Ecuadorian Navy maintains wireless stations on Chatham,

Baltra, Indefatigable, Albemarle, and Charles islands. All radio communications
with the mainland are channeled through naval headquarters at Wreck Bay, Chatham
Island.
At Academy Bay the wireless station was frequently without fuel necessary to
operate the electric plant. Under these circumstances, it was necessary to route
out fuel from local residents if urgent messages were to be sent or received.
As civilian government encroaches on Galápagos, a civilian wireless service

is being established. Such is the case on Chatham Island and is promised for
other islands in the near future.
In conclusion, it is recommended that complete wireless radio equipment be

installed at any future research station so as to assure speed, accuracy, privacy,
and dependability of radio service with the mainland. This is especially
important in cases of medical exigency.
(2) Mail. Delivery of mail to the islands is no more regular than the sailings
of “El Oro” or a government-subsidized ship. Mail was brought to the islands on
14 July ("El Oro"), 26 August ("Don Lucho"), and 4 November ("El Oro"). Thus there
were periods of 6 and 9 weeks, respectively, between mail deliveries during our
stay on Galápagos, and local residents report that this is about average service.
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In conclusion it is recommended that if a research station is established on

Galápagos, the Ecuadorian Government should guarantee regular mail delivery duty-
free, It is also recommended that an arrangement be made with persons living in
the Canal Zone to forward Galápagos bound mail via private yachts.
Medical and dental services
One of the greatest public needs on the Galápagos is an improved medico-dental

serv ice. Minor services are provided on the capitol island of Chatham where both
civilian and military doctors are in residence. There are no facilities, however,
for major surgery, which necessitates a trip to the mainland, when and if trans-
portation is available. Colonists on islands other than Chatham who are in need of
medical treatment must summon aid from Chatham Island or be taken to that island in
a private boat. A nurse was in residence for part of the time that we were
stationed at Academy Bay. For lack of equipment and sufficient drugs, she was of
service mainly in childbirth.
It is recommended, therefore, that scientists planning to visit Galápagos should

undergo a thorough medical and dental checkup before departing from the mainland and
carry an adequate supply of drugs.
If a research station materializes on Galápagos, consideration must be given to

the possible need for rapid evacuation of a patient. The Ecuadorian Government may
be willing to place their Catalina flying boat at the disposal of the station
personnel on special request. In the event that Ecuadorian planes are undergoing
repairs (a frequent cause for delay), it would be wise to make additional arrange-
ments with the U.S. Air Force stationed in the Canal Zone. And in order toaccommo-
date all airplanes which might be available for the flight to Galápagos, a reserve
supply of aviation fuel should be accumulated in the underground reservoirs on
Baltra Island.
It is hoped that if Ecuador is willing to provide the emergency airplane for

station personnel it would be likewise for civilian and military personnel. A
research station could, in this and other ways, bring much social progress to the
islands.
Schools
If scientists plan to spend any length of time on Galápagos, they probably will
want to bring along their families. The lack of suitable schools may be a discourag-
ing factor. Ecuador maintains Spanish-speaking grade schools on Chatham, Indefatigable
Albemarle, and Charles Islands, but these are not to be compared to facilities and
instruction in schools of the same name in the United States. In other words,
scientists planning to bring their children to Galápagos should assume that for all
practical purposes public schooling is unavailable.
Living accommodations
All four members at our mission lived in a newly constructed house et Academy Bay,
Two bedrooms, a washroom, and a sitting room, were at our disposal, A flushing-type
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toilet (the only one on the island) adjoined the house. Two other houses suitable
for scientists are available but with less privacy and space, and lacking modern
toilet facilities. Board can be obtained from one or more European colonists or
from almost any of the Ecuadorian colonists. Even if the research station were to
be established at Academy Bay (which site is not totally without merit - see Chapter
7), it would be impractical for the personnel to live apart from the installation
because the only available building site is a goodly distance from existing dwellings
with rugged terrain intervening. Thus, in planning the buildings for a station,
it is suggested that living units for all personnel be part of the general
installation.
Local labour
At Academy Bay more unskilled labourers are available than would be needed for
construction and maintenance of a research installation, A few of the labourers
are semi-skilled at such trades as masonry, carpentry, mechanics, boat maintenance,
etc. A list of these people is to be found in the Appendix (p.6). It should be
pointed out, however, that with few exceptions all construction work would need to
be carefully supervised since most (but not all) helpers could not be called upon
to follow precisely written or blueprint instructions.
Local building supplies
Lumber suitable for construction work is not locally produced. Although two
native trees (guayavillo and matazarno) and a few introduced species (balsa, mahogany,
etc.) are used to some extent for buildings, they are not in sufficient supply or
of sufficient length and straightness, to be of use in erecting a permanent
structure for a research station. The supply of need lumber (chiefly softwoods
such as pine and fir) from the defunct military base on Baltra Island, is just
about exhausted and much of what remains is of inferior quality or infested with
termites.
Frame buildings are typical of Galápagos. Corrugated iron sheets are used as
roofing from which water is collected for drinking purposes. Older houses are
built of lava boulders, with walls sometimes several feet thick, A few of the
newer residences and also the administration building at Wreck Bay are of mortar
and lava boulders, forming a very attractive although heavy edifice, which blends
well with the landscape. Unfortunately, on Indefatigable Island, the lava does
not fracture along regular planes so that it is more useful for foundation work
than for walls.
Because of the lack of skilled labourers and the paucity of suitable raw
materials for building, it is suggested that a type of semi -prefabricated structure
be considered for a permanent installation on Galápagos. Wood is not recommended
as the main support for buildings because of the ever present danger of termites
furthermore, suitable hardwoods would have to be imported from the mainland, and
they are expensive. Although lava boulders are readily available in the lowlands,
they are tedious to collect. A small building of lava makes for a very heavy,
rather inflexible structure. Concrete structures might prove satisfactory and
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would be cool. However, the writer is more inclined toward a type of light-
weight metal construction of simple design and easy to construct, portable
and near indestructible by the weather. (See Appendix for specific recommendation.)
One should consider the possibility that sub-stationsmay be needed in the higher
elevations where boulders, sand, and wood are unavailable. A light-weight,
pre-fabricated unit, made of aluminum alloys, would seem to be indicated.
Local foods, water, and fuels
(1) Local foods. In the highlands (700 ft, and above) on the islands of
Chatham, Charles, Albemarle, and Indefatigable, there is sufficient agriculture to
supply all the fresh food needs of a research station. Many of the farmers and
fishermen on Indefatigable Island have had considerable experience in supplying
the former U.S, military base on Baltra Island and would welcome an outlet for
their present produce.
Locally grown fruits and vegetables are as follows; potatoes, turnips, yuca,
cabbage, otoya, breadfruit, tree tomatoes, avocados, peanuts, lettuce, leeks,
parsley, bananas, grapefruit, oranges, papaya, pineapple, king fruit, plums,
guava, coffee, sugarcane, etc. Many of these foods are available only at certain
seasons of the year, with the lowest yield during the hot season (January to May).
Wild goats, cattle, and pigs, provide a good source of fresh meat. Fish
(chiefly mullet and grouper) are always available as needed. Lobster and shellfish
are locally abundant. Wild and domesticated chickens are in good supply and the
latter produce good quality eggs. Animal fats are always in short supply and it
is because of this that there is a relentless hunting of the tortoise and the
sea turtles for their fat.
The Kastdalen family, Norwegian colonists in the highlands of Indefatigable

Island North of Academy Bay, have developed a herd of Holstein cattle. This herd
is now yielding a limited supply of milk from which butter and cheese are being
produced. The milk, is not pasteurized or kept under refrigeration and may, in
future, be a public health hazard.
In summary, most of the staple foods necessary for a healthful diet are
available on the islands. Flour, salt, sugar, yeast, tea, powdered milk, dried
vegetables such as beans, peas, lentils, spices, cooking fats, and canned foods,
must be imported from the mainland, although a few local stores may occasionally
have some of these items for sale. Because of the irregularity of transportation
to the islands, large supplies of such foods must be kept in storage.
(2) Water. In the coastal zone "sweet" water for drinking is in very short
supply, except at Wreck Bay on Chatham Island where a pipeline connects the crater
lake in the highlands with the beach. The water shortage along the coast could, for
all practical purposes, be eliminated if larger storage tanks and collecting
surfaces were constructed. Torrential downpours, often of very short duration,
occur from January to April, at which time a good part of the year's supply of
water could be collected and supplemented with smaller quantities which collected
during the garúa season (May to December).
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During drought years sufficient quantities to maintain a moderate-sited

research station could be produced from several inexpensive solar stills, by
conversion of seawater to fresh water. Along the coast there are very few days
during the year that solar stills could not function.
Cravasses containing fresh and brackish water have been located short
distance from Academy Bay and Tortuga bays, Indefatigable Island. These are in
addition to the brackish water holes that occur around the base of the hydrophylous
tree, manzanillo, from which the local residents obtain water for cooking and
washing.
In conclusion, there are sufficient quantities of fresh water to be had on

the larger islands if adequate storage tanks and largo collecting surfaces are
constructed and "solar stills" are utilised.
(3) Fuels. Most of the colonists on Galápagos burn wood for cooking although
a few use kerosene-burning stoves. The demand for firewood is making heavy inroads
on the very limited supply of native hardwoods, especially in the vicinity of human
settlements.
Because the operating cost of a diesel generator is so low it would be wise

to completely equip the station with electrically operated appliances. In any
case, electricity would be needed for radio transmitting and the operation of
certain laboratory equipment. Stoves and refrigerators burning diesel fuel could
be kept for emergency use. Greatest efficiency and economy of operation could be
achieved through the use of one kind of fuel for all motors (i.e. boats, generators,
pumps).
Boats
There can be little doubt that a moderate-sized motor-powered boat will be

required for transporting supplies and investigators from one island to another.
Possibly a certain amount of patrol work will be required. Through experience our
group learned to appreciate the advantages of a small fishing boat with shallow
draft and a powerful diesel motor. A small sited boat is not only more economical
to purchase, operate, and repair, but also permits one to enter shallow water and
make a lending in otherwise inaccessible places. A suitable type of wooden-hulled
boat, 40-50 ft. long, with twin diesel motors, could, for example, be purchased
directly from a Norwegian factory and shipped via freighter to the Canal Zone, all
for considerably less money than it would cost to purchase a boat of similar design
and quality in the United States. Cabin and work areas could be constructed by
local labourers to specifications. One or two small skiffs equipped with outboard
motors, would be needed for landings.
It might be suggested that locally owned fishing boats could be used when
needed. However, most of these are in very poor mechanical condition, lack two-way
radio, and are costly to hire (approximately $20.00 U.S. per day). Often these
boats are away from port for over a week.
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Interest in a research station by Ecuadorian officials
If we are to judge (1) from the interest shown by cabinet ministers, scientists,
newspaper publishers; and private citizens, in our mission; (2) from the free air
and boat transportation provided by the Ecuadorian Air Force and Navy, and (3) the
desire of the Minister of Education, Dr. Jose Bacquerizo, to receive our recommenda-
tions for the better protection of the Galápagos biota, then we must conclude that
there is reason to believe that Ecuador is sincerely interested in establishing
a research station on Galápagos, and would endeavour to co-operate in whatever
manner is recommended by an advisory committee.
How Ecuador might help
If a scientific station is to be established on Galápagos, there are things

which the Government of Ecuador might do to assist. The following a.to only a few
suggestions that come to mind as a result of our experiences in the field during
1957.
(1) Provide for regular scheduled boat service to and from Galápagos.
(2) Provide for airplane service to and from Galápagos for medical,
emergencies.
(3) Transport cargo needed for building and maintaining a station on

Galápagos, free of charge.
(4) Provide for a reserve supply of aviation fuel at the Baltra Island
airstrip.
(5) Provide for free use of the government wireless station when needed.
(6) Provide free labour for construction and maintenance of station and
for building trails,
(7) Invest in a special committee power to issue scientific collecting

permits for Galápagos,
(8) Invest the power of arrest in certain station officials so as to

aid in nature protection.
(9) Use the government operated Patrol Boat for law enforcement work and
trips to remote parts of the Archipelago.
(10) Establish research scholarships to permit gifted Ecuadorian students

to study at the station.
(11) Permit hunting of the feral animals by station personnel for food and
"control" as is deemed necessary by the Director of the station.
(12) Modify statutes relating to the management of the Galápagos biota as is

deemed necessary by an advisory committee.
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CHAPTER 7. LOCATION OF A RESEARCH STATION
In our search for a suitable station site the following considerations were
kept in mind:
Location with respect to other Islands in the archipelago
If much moving about is anticipated in connexion with research activities or

law enforcement, then the matter of a centralized location may be of paramount
importance. However, if relatively fast boats such us the Government Patrol Boats
(speeds up to 15 knots), are to be made available to the station then a central
location may be relatively unimportant.
Location with respect to sources of supply
Four islands, namely, Chatham, Charles, Albemarle, and Indefatigable, support,

a mixed type of agriculture in the moist highlands. Ready access to the-re centres
is obviously important to a station. Whereas local farmers would personally deliver
their produce to the station if near an existing settlement, they might be reluctant
to do so if distances are very great or if trails are inadequate.
The government supply boat and private cargo vessels make stops at only the
four main centres; Wreck Bay, Academy Bay, Black Beach, and Villamil. A station
should be established fairly close to one of these centres.
Local labour is readily available from existing communities but may be more
difficult and costly to obtain if workers are required to live away from homes.
Location with respect to social contacts
In order to avoid involvement in patty local disputes, of which there are many,
and too frequent disturbances by curiosity seekers and residents in need of food,
fuel, and minor medical assistance, and in order tominimise the over present throat
of theft, there is real merit in locating a station somewhat removed from local
settlements. Furthermore, communities such as Academy Bay are ever expanding and
concomitantly, the pollution hazard in increasing with the destruction of local
littoral environments. Through molesting and killing of terrestrial, animals and
clearing of land for construction, existing communities do not present what is
conceived by this writer to be an ideal setting for a research station.
Location with respect to habitat diversity
In order to facilitate biological studies in as many naturally occurring

situations as possible, the station should be so located as to promote this end.
Location w1th respect to building and expansion
The most suitable areas for a station will require some clearing of land and
trail building, lava tends to be excessively hot during the daytime, even if
well exposed to the ocean breezes, and usually supports a moderate growth of
vegetation. Sandy areas, on the other hand, while less common, present, certain
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building problems (e.g. settling, drifting dunes), but are generally free of
dense vegetation and are always cooler than lava.
Location with respect to harbour facilities
A protected harbour with a minimum depth sufficient to accommodate a small

motor powered boat is desirable. Also, there should be a gradually sloping
shore nearby where boats could be beached for overhaul. Docks are rather
inadequate on Galápagos so that wherever a station is to be located, appropriate
landing installation will have to be built.
Possible sites for a station
The following three locations merit consideration as possible sites for a

research station,
I. SOUTH and OF JAMES BAY, JAMES ISLAND
Advantages
1. Far removed from centres of human settlement (Villamil and Academy Bay
are the closest ports), thus little disturbance from local residents,
2. Excellent level building sites on tuff with unlimited possibilities for

expansion.
3. Good harbour capable of accommodating large ocean-going ships.
4. Good variety of habitats close by, namely, protected sand beach,

exposed rocky shore, protected rocky shore, recent lava flow,
mangrove bordered lagoon, crater lake, veldt cactus scrub, etc.
5. Fresh-water spring nearby; many feral goats nearby (food).
6. From the standpoint of a marine biologist Sullivan Bay (on the

East side of James Island) has, perhaps, as much to offer as
any one Galápagos locality [information from Dr. John Garth,
Hancock Foundation, University of Southern California].
7. Location of much historical interest. Darwin made many of his

scientific observations here. Heyerdahl discovered pre-European
campsites in this locality. Cowan's grave in environs.
Disadvantages
1. Far removed from source of locally grown foods and local labour.
2. Location somewhat less "central" to the main Southern group of

islands.
3. The tortoise and land iguana may be extinct on this island.
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4. No trails exist into the highlands thus restricting penetration of

the interior.
5. Presently the Government boat does not stop at James hay (although it
could find safe anchorage there).
6. From the standpoint of a marine biologist, James Bay is poor of collecting

beaches.
II. ACADEMY BAY, SOUTH SIDE INDEFATIGABLE ISLAND
Advantages
1. Excellent anchorage for moderate sized boats.
2. Very close to supply of locally grown foods and local labour.
3. Main trail to highlands begins at Academy Bay and permits easy

penetration of the interior of the Inland.
4. Government, boat mates regular stops at Academy Bay.
5. Academy Bay is closest port to Wreck Bay, the principal anchorage and
administrative capital of Galápagos.
6. Vegetation structure between Academy Bay and the top of the island
presents several unique features.
7. One of archipelago’s largest remaining tortoise herds is only about

one day’s hike away from Academy Bay.
8. All of original biota except Geospizadifficilis is still intact,

although certain elements (i.e. land iguana) are much reduced in
numbers.
9. Good central location for the main Southern group of islands.
10. Many feral animals such as pigs, cattle, and goats, which assure a
plentiful supply of fresh meat.
11. Good supply of brackish and some sweet water available.
12. Available littoral habitats include exported rocky coasts, several small
exposed and protected sand beaches, mangroves, and two lagoons.
13. Ecuador in commencing the construction of a road from Baltra Island to

Academy Bay, thus in future making a good connexion between the airstrip
and the local settlement.
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Disadvantages
1. Expanding community, resulting in much local destruction of

habitats due to clearing and pollution; such animals as
marine iguanas and lobsters now are comparatively scarce due
to molesting and killing by children and adults.
2. Close to local community so that there may be considerable

disturbance for medical aid, use of wireless, loans of
fuel, and basic food stuffs.
3. Considerable danger of theft here.
4. Available building sites are quite limited in extent necessitating

considerable clearing of land.
III. “TORTUGA BAY”, SOUTH SIDE INDEFATIGABLE ISLAND
(NOTE: The “Tortuga Bay” referred to here is not the bay so labelled on U.S.
Hydrographic Chart No. 1798, but rather the first horse-shoe shaped
inlet West of Academy Bay.)
Advantages
1. Items numbered 2 to 10 inclusive listed under "advantages" of

Academy Bay arc also applicable to Tortuga Bay which is about
1 1/2 miles to the West of Academy Bay.
2. Greatest diversity of littoral habitats that are available in

one area. These include the followings exposed rocky coast,
protected rocky coast, exposed sand beach (one of the largest
in the archipelago, approx. 3/4 mile long), protected sand beach,
mudflats, lagoons, large mangrove thickets, giant cacti forests,
and vast sand dunes also surround this area.
3. Excellent protected harbour for boats of shallow draft only.

(At present it is necessary that all cargo arriving by ship at
Academy Bay be unloaded on small fishing boats for landing.
Thus in practice it would make little difference whether cargo
was transferred directly to shore at Academy Bay or, forty
minutes later, at Tortuga Bay.)
4. Far enough removed from Academy Bay (approximately 40 minutes by

boat, 60 minutes on foot) that it discourages frequent visits by
local residents in search of amusement, yet close enough to
permit of all the advantage of the Academy Bay region.
5. Brackish water available. Possibly some fresh water wells nearby,
6. Plenty of space (chiefly on sand dunes) for building, and requiring

little disturbance of local habitat.
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Disadvantages
1. barge boats cannot enter Tortuga Bay. Frequently heavy breakers

near the shallow main entrance channel make navigation somewhat
dangerous. it might be possible to improve the channel by blasting,
2. Tortuga Bay may already have been "promised" to other interests.
3. A trail will need to be constructed from Academy Bay to Tortuga Bay.
Before a final selection is made for a station site it will be necessary for
an advisory committee to decide upon the functions of a Galápagos station, its
physical size as determined by funds to be made available, type of construction,
etc.
It is my opinion that an ideal self-contained plant would include the following

principal installations (This information is based on three year's experience
in planning and developing an inland biological station for Queen’s University,
in Canada, and one year of field experience in Galápagos.)
1. One large building for common-room, dining-room, and kitchen,
2. Another large building for laboratory, collection storage, offices,

library, darkroom, stockroom, etc.
3. Four to eight small living units for housing staff, visiting scientists
and their families, each containing two small sleeping compartments,
and one small combination sitting room-kitchenette.
4. A concrete dock with an adjoining building for housing the electric

plant, pumps, machine shop, radio-room, and for storage.
5. Two or three separate buildings for flushing toilets and wash basin.
6. One shower building (which may be consolidated with one of buildings in

item No.5) with hot and cold fresh water, with adjoining clothes washroom.
7. Three to five large concrete (or metal) reservoirs for storage of rain
water collected from roofs and special collecting aprons.
8. Two greenhouse-sized "solar-stills".
9. One diesel motored 40-50 ft, fishing boat, and three wooden-hulled skiffs
(covered with fiberglass) and equipped with outboard motors.
Because of its unique biological, scenic, and recreational features, its

semi-isolation, from Academy Bay (the nearest settlement), it is the opinion of
the writer that the Tortuga Bay region offers an ideal site for the building of a
research station.
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CHAPTER 8. PLANNING THE RESEARCH STATION
In order that construction of the Galápagos research station may proceed as

quickly as possible, it will be necessary for a committee to formulate policy and
draw up plans. The following items should be considered at an early stage in the
planning:
1. Analysis of types of activities
It is the opinion of the writer that the activities of a research station

should not be limited to “non-applied” biological research. The following field
should also be encouraged whenever possible agriculture, public health, tropical
medicine, oceanography, geology, pedology, climatology, geography, sociology, etc.
In so doing, we might greatly expand the potential source of financial aid to the
station, and, indeed, at the same time permit the station to make a greater con-
tribution to our overall knowledge of the Galápagos region.
.
Natural history projects of a strictly observational nature, lend themselves
most readily to immediate study by the scientist new to the Galápagos area, for
they require minimal laboratory facilities.
2. Determination of site of a station
Regardless of the kind of activities to be conducted at the station, a

minimum number of facilities will be required (see p. 54). It is important to
plan the initial installations with an eye to possible future expansion. Also,
if a pre-fabricated type of structure, such as a geodesic dome (see Appendix p.61),
is to be used, which structure incorporates light-weight uniform elements that are
easily transported, it would be most economical to order additional members to be
reserved for future construction, for example, if a permanent station is established
along the coast of Indefatigable Island, sooner or later a small building will be
needed in the highlands where a base of operations would facilitate studies in this
equally interesting region.
3. Extent of equipment
This matter can only be discussed fully after the size and scope of the station
are defined. Certainly, not all the laboratory equipment, for example, need be
installed at the very beginning. The nature of the research will in large measure
dictate future equipment needs. However, certain basic equipment will probably be
required at the start. Some of this, mainly for operation and maintenance of the
station, is listed below.
1. Kitchen area: electric stove, electric refrigerator, electric refrigerator, electric

freeze, electric water heater, sink, etc.
2. Dining and common-room area: two large tables, 10-20 chairs, two
couches, short-wave radio, record-player, table lamps, etc.
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3. Laboratory: electric water heater, kerosene refrigerator, and freezer,

sinks, steel shelving, metal tables, metal desk, metal filing cabinets,
chairs, air pumps, air conditioning unit (electric), desk lamps, specimen
jars, insect proof museum cases, compound and dissecting microscopes,
etc.
4. Living units: 2 or 3 double bunks with springs, mattresses, and blankets;

4 to 6 chairs, 1 or 2 small tables, electric hot plate or diesel-fuel
stove, sink, food locker.
5. Service building: diesel motored electric generators (2), water pumps,

steel lathe, misc. tools (hand and electric), radio transmitter and
receiver with spare parts; storage shelves, etc.
6. Animal shelter: plumbing for hot and cold water, sink, nylon screening.
7. Washroom and toilet facilities: electric water heater, electric automatic

washing machines (2), toilets (4), wash basins, etc.
8. Water and fuel storage tanks: preferably of metal, but cement might
suffice (at least for water).
9. Boats: one diesel motored fishing boat, 40-50 ft. long; 3 wooden-hulled
skiffs covered with fiberglass with outboard motors.
4. Availability of local materials
Few building materials are available locally. Lava boulders and coral sand
are available in unlimited quantities along the shore; volcanic ash (a possible
substitute for gravel or sand) may be had from a crater in the highlands. Basic
building tools and equipment are in short supply. Heavy machinery such as bull-
dozer and stone crusher might be available on loan from the government if their
plane for road construction materialize on Indefatigable Island. Thus, essential
all building materials and construction equipment would have to be brought in.
This fact in Itself suggests a pre-fabricated type of building for the station.
5. Local labour
Unskilled Ecuadorian labourers can be hired for approximately $1.50 to $2.00

per day, not including room and board. European colonists, some semi-skilled,
may be hired at somewhat higher rates, about $3.00 to $4,00 per day (possibly less).
A list of local people available for construction work is given in the Appendix.
Only a very few of these labourers, it must be emphasized, are semi-skilled. None
are skilled.
6. Building type
Inasmuch as the size of a station and the approximate amount of equipment

needed can be determined now, and since we already know about the availability of
local supplies and the cost of labour, etc., therefore the type of building to
be used can also be decided now without the necessity of sending another mission
to Galápagos for this express purpose.
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On the advice of a San Francisco designer, Mr. Raymond Weinstein, who has
expressed a very sincere interest in the Galápagos project, it is recommended that
the decision as to the type of building to be used (i.e. prefabricated, partially
prefabricated, locally built) be made only by a good comprehensive designer (not
an engineer, a group of scientists, or professional administrators). According
to the type of building selected, additional information might, or might not, be
needed prior to the actual constructions. Thus, it would be advisable to consult
one or more professional designers to determine if it is necessary to send another
mission to Galápagos on the basis of the information already available. The
decision to utilize a particular building type will be no less difficult to make
after a second biologist or an architect has surveyed the same areas reported on
here. It is really a technical matter requiring very special advice, and I have
reason to believe that this question of building type could be settled hers in the
very near future.
In the Appendix I have listed the names of individuals and firms which, in
the opinion of Mr. Weinstein, are best qualified to advise the planning committee.
After a complete building programme has been decided upon, some kind of
architectural competition may be a way of arriving at the best solution.
CHAPTER 9. ORGANIZATIONS INTERESTED IN GALÁPAGOS
Funds for the establishment and operation of an international research

station on Galápagos will have to be solicited from various private and public
institutions, foundations, and individuals.
The following comments are intended primarily to call attention to some

"West -coast" organizations which have been much interested in the Galápagos
region. Possibly, when an organized drive for funds gets underway, they could
be formally approached for their co-operation.
California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco.
California Academy of Sciences, San Francisco. This scientific institution

possesses one of the world’s largest collections of Galápagos plants and animals.
Although the institution is not "strong" financially, nevertheless it might be
able to help in ways other than by contributions of money. For example, it might
be possible to arrange for the publication of the results of original research in
Galápagos in their "Proceedings" or "Occasional Papers" series, or possibly they
might be willing to establish a special series for the exclusive use of the
Galápagos research station. Their popular monthly Journal, "Pacific Discovery,"
might be of much help in publicizing the Galápagos project. A "Galápagos Bureau"
might be set up at the Academy to serve as a centre for co-ordinating research,
shipping of supplies, etc.
Museum of Natural History, Stanford University, Stanford, California.
Museum of Natural History, Stanford University, Stanford, California. This museum

possesses a fairly large collection of Galápagos plants and animals made by
Snodgrass and Heller in 1898-99. What contribution it might make to the station
project is unknown.
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San Diego Zoological Society,
San Diego Zoological Society, San Diego, California. This long established
institution which operates the famous San Diego Zoo, has for many years been
active in the display of Galápagos vertebrates, and is presently noted for its
exceptionally fine collection of giant tortoises. The Society might be willing
to contribute annually to the Galápagos station in return for a limited number
of live animals from Galápagos for use in displays at the zoo. Exchanges of this
type with other zoos around the world, would, of course, need to be administered
with utmost care and along sound principles of wildlife management.
Allan Hancock Foundation,
Allan Hancock Foundation, University of Southern California, Los Angeles. As early

as the late “twenties” Captain Allan Hancock was exploring the Galápagos Islands,
and since that time, numerous expeditions have been sent and a very fine collection
of invertebrates assembled at this Institution. “Velero”, the well equippedoceano-
graphic vessel of the Foundation, might be available for cruises to Galápagos, say
once or twice a year, providing transportation for scientists, supplies, and
assisting in oceanographic studies. Possibly annual research grants might be made
available. Although Captain Hancock is not a young man, he still maintains a
youthful interest In Galápagos. A large "shallows" in Galápagos waters has been
named "Hancock Banks".
University of California.
University of California. Scripps Institution of Oceanography in La Jolla, Cali-

fornia, is part of the University of California, and in co-operation with the U.S.
Navy has operated oceanographic vessels in Galápagos waters and may be interested
in doing so in the future. Their ships might be used to bring scientists and
supplies to and from Galápagos. Various museums of the University of California,
such as the Museum of Vertebrate Zoology, the Entomological Museum, the Herbarium,
the Geological Museum, the Anthropology Museum (whose honorary Director, Prof. E.
W. Gifford, was ornithologist on the California Academy of Sciences 1905-06
Galápagos Expedition) might possibly make contributions to the Galápagos station
in various ways. The University subsidizes an organization of Faculty called
"The Associates in Tropical Biogeography" which sponsors travel and research in
tropical regions. The writer was sent to Galápagos under the auspices of this
group in 1952-53. Furthermore, it might be possible to obtain gratis advice on
technical matters of design and construction from members of the architecture and
industrial design departments of the university.
American Tunaboat Association.
American Tunaboat Association. San Diego, California. A large number of boats from
San Diego and Los Angeles fish for tuna in Galápagos waters. This association of
tuna fishermen maintains a full-time representative in Quito (Mr. Butler), who
we met during our visit to that city in July 1957. Public relations between the
tuna fishermen and the Ecuadorian Government have not been too favourable in recent
years. Possibly the standing of the Association could be improved through support
of research at the Galápagos station. There is much need for money to be spent in
obtaining the basic oceanographic information for a sound management of the Galá-
pagos tuna fishery.
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Seventh Day Adventist School of Tropical Medicine,
Seventh Day Adventist School of Tropical Medicine, Loma Linda,California. An

ichthyologist formerly of this institution, Dr. Bruce Halstead, has been engaged
in studying poisonous fishes of Galápagos waters. This study was conducted in
co-operation with the Office of Naval Research. Because of this initial
activity the institution might possibly be interested in tropical diseases
research on Galápagos. Ecuador would strongly encourage such activity, not to
mention the Galápagos residents. Studies in the field of Tropical Medicine would
bring much respect for the Galápagos station.
Los Angeles County Museum,
Los Angeles County Museum, Los Angeles, California. This large scientific institu-
tion, under the directorship of M. Jean Delacour, has recently been active in
Galápagos waters (1957). Various ways in which this museum could assist the
Galápagos station should be explored with M. Delacour, who has a long-standing
interest in Galápagos.
Pacific Oceanographic Fisheries Investigation (POFI),
Pacific Oceanographic Fisheries Investigation (POFI), U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service,
Honolulu, Hawaii. This organization is interested in obtaining basic oceanographic
information in the Pacific Ocean which will help in locating and developing fishery
resources. Their activities, at least on one occasion, have extended into the
Eastern Pacific Ocean as far South and East as Galápagos. Establishment of a
permanent research station on Galápagos might direct their interests more to this
little studied area.
There are, to be sure, many other American groups with interests in the
Galápagos area (not to mention South American and European organizations). Dr.
Harold J. Coolidge, Executive Director of the Pacific Science Board, is probably
most in touch with other agencies whose participation in the Galápagos station
could be solicited. By stressing the “international” character of the proposed
Galápagos research station, possibly several of the Latin American countries other
than Ecuador would be willing to assist. The Organization of American States
should be contacted for possible aid through American war surplus depots in Panama.
Consideration should be given to the idea of soliciting donations of material

end transportation from industry and shipping companies. For example, if a suitable
boat and motor could be obtained at very reasonable cost in Norway, possibly Knudsen
Lines could be approached to provide free transportation of the boat to the Canal
Zone. If an aluminum geodesic dome is chosen for the Galápagos station, possibly
Mr. Henry J, Kaiser, of Oakland, California, would be willing to provide the
materials at much reduced cost or, at least, offer free technical advice (see
Appendix).
CHAPTER 10. CONCLUSIONS
As a result of first-hand information obtained during the 1957 Galápagos

reconnaissance, from previous experience in the Galápagos Islands in 1952-53, and
from published reports, it is concluded -
1. That the Government of Ecuador should, at its earliest opportunity,

enact legislation that would establish "wildlife reserves" on the
Galápagos Islands, in which areas all naturally occurring objects,
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including plants, animals and earth resources, are protected against

willful destruction, disturbance, or removal, except as provided for
educational and scientific purposes (see chapter 5 for details).
2. That within the boundaries of the reserves there should be no

introduction of exotic plants and animals, no transplantation
of native species from one area to another, and no human
colonization.
3. That inasmuch as the Galápagos tortoises are of such unusual

biological interest and their numbers on many of the islands so
greatly reduced by hunting, this species should be given complete
protection under Ecuadorian law wherever it may occur, and that it
would be a violation of the law to kill, capture, retain in
captivity, or offer to sell or trade this animal or any part
thereof, for any purpose whatsoever, except as provided for educa-
tional and scientific purposes.
4. That in areas not specifically set aside as wildlife reserves,

all vertebrate animals, exclusive of fishes, should be afforded
complete legal protection, and that killing, molesting, removal,
or selling of such animals or any part thereof, would be considered
a violation of the law.
5. That legislation should be enacted to make it a criminal offense

to deface the Galápagos landscape by any means such as painting,
re-arrangement of naturally occurring objects, etc.
6. That every effort should be made to enforce laws designed to

preserve the fauna and flora and their natural arrangement in the
landscape by designating the power-of-arrest in wardens or in any
other way is deemed in accord with the intentions of the law.
7. That the Government of Ecuador is interested, and, indeed, is most

anxious to co-operate with international organizations in the
establishment of a permanent station on Galápagos, which would
serve as a centre for the protection of the Galápagos biota and for
scientific research.
8. That a research station on Galápagos is feasible and that "Tortuga

Bay" on Indefatigable Island, merits serious consideration as a
potential site for such a station.
9. That a small international planning committee be formed as soon as

possible to decide on the size, scope, type of building, exact
location, and means of financing a research station on Galápagos,
and that no further missions be sent to Galápagos until such decisions
have been made by the planning committee.
WS/0960.88
61
CHAPTER 11. APPENDIX
1. The following is a list of names of residents of Academy Bay,

Indefatigable Island, who might be of help in the building of a
research station: (see Chapter 8).
General assistance: Carl Angemeyer, Fritz Angemeyer, Gus Angemeyer,

ErlingGraffer, Carl Kübler, Miguel Castro, Aiders Rambeck, Gaston,
Andre de Roy, Sanderson, Bud Devine, Antonio Sotamoyor, Enrique
Fuentes, Gilberto Moncayo, Cesar Moncayo, etc.
Boat maintenance: Fritz Angemeyer, ErlingGraffer, Miguel Castro,

Adolf Henie, and Forrest Nelson.
Expedition work: Carl Angemeyer, ErlingGraffer, Miguel Castro,

Gilberto Moncayo, and Enrique Fuentes.
Laboratory assistant: (These people could be trained to assist)

Friedel Nelson, Carmen Angemeyer, Andre de Roy.
Preparation of meals: Zouzou Castro, SolvigRambeck, Friedel Horneman,

and Friedel Nelson.
Suppliers of fresh food: Kastdalens, Horneman, Hendrickson, Sanderson,

and Moe.
2. The following is a brief description of the "Geodesic Dome".
Since the establishment of a scientific research station on Galápagos under

the guidance of Unesco and other international agencies represents a milestone
in the history of international co-operation in conservation, it is appropriate to
consider a type of construction that is in some way symbolic of this achievement.
What is suggested here is a type of structure that incorporates the most advanced
structural design, which has no limitations as to size, which is economical to
build and easy to erect. The "Geodesic Dome" fulfils these qualifications.
Basically, the geodesic dome involves the principle set forth by Mr. Richard
Buckminster Fuller, noted pioneer "comprehensive designer". What makes the Fuller
geodesic dome important are the following features:
(a) It is structurally so simple that a few hours of plan study is all

that is needed to assemble one. For example, at an American
exhibition at the International Trade Fair in Afgan in 1956, a
large geodesic dome pavilion was flown in and erected in 48
hours using a handful of unskilled workers led by one engineer.
Furthermore, it can be dismantled readily and moved elsewhere
if necessary.
(b) Its major components whether wood, metal, or plastic are always
relatively light-weight, thus easier to handle. Parts are
standardized and could be wrapped in packages. This feature
is especially favourable to conditions on Galápagos where, at
present, roads are lacking, and all materials must be brought in
by boat and transported over land by donkey. Such a building,
therefore, could be taken readily to some inaccessible
location, if necessary.
WS/0960.88
62
(c) It is strong. One dome designed for the U.S. Air Force has
withstood two years of icy, 180 mile-an-hour wind blasts on
the top of Mt. Washington, New Hampshire. Another, used as a
restaurant at Woods Hole, Mass., rode out hurricane "Carol"
with no more damage than broken windows.
(d) There are no structural limitations to size or use.
(e) The geodesic dome is one of the least expensive buildings yet
discovered.
The basic framework consists of a triangular network of struts made of

aluminum, plastic, wood, or even paperboard. There are no "ribs", no beams, no
interior bracing is needed for added support. The framework may be covered completely
with transparent plastic (as in the Woods Hole restaurant), nylon (as in the Afgania-
pavillon), plywood (as in various experimental domes), precast aluminum diamond
panels (as in the Kaiser auditorium in Hawaii - see fig. 4), or other material.
Domes with diameters of 15 to 100 feet are recommended for use as greenhouses,
vacation houses, tool storage, machine shops, animal shelters, club house,
restaurant, etc. For example, on Galápagos, a large dome could serve as a lounge-
dining-kitchen area, and a second large dome could serve as a laboratory area.
A smaller dome could serve as a machine shop and storage area, with several small
domes serving as private living quarters.
The geodesic dome can be beautiful both exteriorly and interiorly. A

beautiful site such as is available at Tortuga Pay (where a wide variety of
situations exists from black lava to white sands, from mangroves to giant cacti)
may be enhanced by such contrasting man-made forms.
Mr. Fuller has written as follows about the Galápagos station:
“I certainly am interested in the Galápagos Islands project.

However, it is not part of my strategy of philosophy to advertise
or promote geodesic structures. If the biologists become interested
in a dome for housing their station and come to me, I will do every-
thing I can to help them.”
Finally, it is of interest to note the very close resemblance, even down

to the details of the framework, between the shape of the geodesic dome and the
carapace of a Galápagos tortoise.
3. The following is a list of individuals and firms who could advise on

building types for the Galápagos station:
(1) Completely pre-fabricated buildings
Primary source:
Mr. R. Buckminster Fuller, 6 Burns Street, Forest Hills 75, New York.
Mr. Fuller is the inventor of the geodesic dome, one of the most
efficient space enclosing structures known.
WS/0960.88
63
Mrs. Herbert Noyes, 132 Canner Street,, New Haven, Conn. Mrs.
Canner is a student of Mr. Fuller and is his representative in
the New Haven district.
Secondary source:
Mr. Jeffrey Lindsay, Dept, of Industrial Design, College of

Architecture, University of California In Los Angeles,
Los Angeles, California. Mr. Lindsay has been an associate
of Mr. Fuller for several years. He has recently designed a
geodesic dome to house the U.C.L.A. materials testing laboratory.
Mr. Don Rickter, 228 North La Salle Street, Chicago, Illinois.

Mr. Rickter, also an associate of Mr. Fuller for several years,
has recently declined an all aluminum geodesic dome for Kaiser
Aluminum and Chemical Corporation.
Information about pre-fabricated buildings other than Mr. Fuller’s geodesic

dome can be obtained from the Department of Architecture, Massachusetts Institute
of Technology.
(2) Locally built or partially pre-fabricated buildings
Eero Saarinen. (East coast address not available at time of

this writing). Mr. Saarinen was architect for the General
Motors Technical Centre in Detroit, Mich. He manages an
extremely competent firm.
Victor Gruen Associates, 971 Sutter Street, San Francisco, California,

(local address). This group is the originator
of the shopping centre but also does many small scale building
projects.
Skidmore Owings and Merrill, 1 Montgomery Street, San Francisco,

California (local address). A very competent firm.
CHAPTER 12. LITERATURE CITED
Atwood, W.W.
1940. The protection of nature in the Americas.
Barlow, N.
1933. Charles Darwin's diary of the voyage of the “Beagle”
Beebe, W.
1924. Galápagos: world's end.
WS/0960.88
64
Broom, R.
1929. On the extinct Galápagos tortoise that inhabited Charles Island.

Zoologies, 9:313-320.
Conway, A. and F.
1947. The enchanted islands.
Couffer, J.C.
1957. Nest of the Galápagos penguin. Condor, 59:399.
Eibl-Eibesfeldt, I.
1956. EineneueRasse der Meerechse, Amblyrhynchuscristatusvenustissimus,

nebsteinigenBemerkungenüberAmblyrhynchuscristatuscristatus.
"Schnackenberg biol.", 37:87-100.
Heller, E.
1903. Papers from the Hopkins Stanford Galápagos expedition, 1898-1899. XIV.
Reptiles. Proc. Wsh. Acad. Sci., 5:39-98.
1904. Mammals of the Galápagos Archipelago, exclusive of the Cetacea.

Proc. Calif. Acad. Scl., 3rd series, 3:233-250.
King, J.E.
1954. The Otariid seals of the Pacific coast of America. Bull. British
Museum (Natural History), Zoology, 2:311-337.
Lack, D.
1947. Darwin's finches.
Meredith, Dew.
1939. Voyages of the Valero III.
Orr, R.T.
1938. A new rodent of the genus Nesoryzomys from the Galápagos Islands.
Proc. California Acad. Sci., 4th series, 23:303-306.
Richards,
1954. Volcanic eruptions of 1953 sod 1948 on Isabela Island, Galápagos

Islands, Ecuador. VolcanoLetter no. 525, pp. 1-3.
Slevin, J.R.
1931. Log of the schooner "Academy", Occas. Papers, 17, Calif. Acad. Sci.
WS/0960.88
65
Slevin, J.R.
1935. An account of the reptiles inhabiting the Galápagos Islands.

Bull. N. Y. Zool. Soc., 38:3-24.
Swarth, H.S,
1931. The avifauna of the Galápagos Islands. Occas. Papers, 18,

Calif. Acad. Sci.
Townsend, C.H.
1896 Notes on the fur seals of Guadalupe, the Galápagos, and Lobos
Islands. In, "The fur seals and fur-seal islands of the North
Pacific Ocean", Pt. III, pp. 223-274. U.S. Govt. Printing Office.
1910. Fur seals and the seal fisheries. Bull. Bur. Fish., 28:315-322.
1925. The Galapagos tortoises in their relation to the whaling industry.

A study of old log books, Zoologica, 4:55-135.
1928. The Galápagos Islands revisited. Bull. N.X. Zool. Soc., 31:1488-169.
1930. The Astor expedition to the Galápagos Islands. Bull, N.Y. Zool.
Soc., 33:135-155.
1931. Growth and age in the giant tortoise of the Galápagos Zoologies,
9:459-474.
1934. The fur seal of the Galápagos Islands. Zoologies, 18:43-56.
Van Denburgh, J.
1912. The snakes of the Galápagos Archipelago. Proc. Calif. Acad. Sci.,
4th series, 1:323-374.
1912. The geckos of the Galápagos Archipelago. Proc. Calif. Acad. Sci.,
4th series, 1:405-430.
1914. The gigantic land tortoises of the Galápagos Archipelago.

Proc. Calif. Acad. Sci., 4th series, 2:203-274.
Van Denburgh, J. and J.R. Slevin.
1913. The Galápagoan lizards of the genus Tropidurus; with notes on

the iguanas of the genera Conolophus and Amblyrhynchus.
Proc. Calif. Acad. Sci., 4th Series, 2:133-202.
von Hagen, V.W.
1940. Introduction, pp, v-xxii, In, Herman Melville’s Theencantadas or,

enchanted isles. William P. Wreden, Burlingame, California.
WS/0960.88

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Distribution limited PARIS, 10 October 1960.

(Provincial reproduction without photos) Original: English.

UNITED NATIONS EDUCATIONAL,

A BIOLOGICAL RECONNAISSANCE OF THE GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS

CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................... 4

Tuna fishery. .............................................................................................................................. 34

Location with respect to sources of supply ................................................................................ 50

Location with respect to habitat diversity .................................................................................. 50

In July 1957, Ecuador issued a series of six

The "Archipiélago de Colón," more commonly known as the Galápagos Islands, is

Historical importance of the Galápagos Islands

Tales of unusual biological productions and of human strife in the Galápagos

"In July opened first notebook on 'Transmutation of Species'. Had been

Most impressive to the eyes of buccaneers and whalers of past centuries, as

A distinct species of penguin lives inconspicuously amongst the Western

Few places in the world offer such a glorious panorama of "moon-like"

Recent interest in the conservation of the Galápagos biota

Abingdon, Culpepper, Indefatigable, and that part of Albemarle between Albemarle

One of the most active American scientists Interested in obtaining better

"That steps be taken toward the establishment of a base research station

might be allowed to become effectively protected and maintained intact."

In January 1956, Dr. Bowman seat copies of an article to the International

These activities were culminated in the following resolution passed at the

"The Congress views with satisfaction the institution of efforts by Unesco

In April, 1957 the I.U.C.N, was successful in obtaining financial assistance

The main purposes of the survey were as follows:

1. To determine the practicality of establishing a permanent scientific

2. To locate a possible site for such a station.

3. To explore with Ecuadorian officials the possibility of setting aside

4. To check on the distribution, relative abundance, and ecology of certain

5. To obtain adequate photographic documentation of the Islands and their

On 5 July 1957, accompanied by personnel from Life Magazine, namely, Mr.

In addition to the philanthropic organizations mentioned above whose grants

Active cooperation of the Government of Ecuador, on whose request the survey

The members of the expedition extend to the following Ecuadorian officials

Mr. Anthony E. Balinski, resident representative of the United Nations

The writer is grateful to Dr. Alden Miller, Director of the Museum of

I am grateful to the Administration of San Francisco State College for releasing

Finally, special acknowledgment should be made of the enthusiastic partici-

CHAPTER 2. ITINERARY OF EXPEDITION

5 July - Leave New York City by airplane.

6 July - Arrive in Guayaquil, Ecuador. Freund, Eisenstaedt, and Eibl

7 July - Bowman departs for Quito. Reception for mission at home of

8 July - Meeting with the Co-ordinator of Technical Assistance for

Meeting with American Ambassador to arrange details of

Meeting with Minister of National Defense and Commander-Generals

Reception at home of Mr. Jan Schreuder, Director of Arts at

9 July - Airplane trip over Andes courtesy of the Ecuadorian Government,

Audience with the President of the Republic, Dr. Ponce (see

Meeting with Dr. Acosta-Solis, Director of the Instituto

Meeting with the Minister of Foreign Affairs, Sr, Tobar.

Meeting with the Minister of Education, Dr, Baquerizo to

Attended meeting of the Comité Nacional del Año

10 July - Leave Quito for Guayaquil.

Meeting with Naval Commander of District no. 1 concerning

Meeting with Mrs, Helen Coray to prepare list of materials

11 July - Clear baggage through customs. Made purchases of food, etc.

12-14 July - Relaxation in Guayaquil and Playas, awaiting departure of

15 July - Leave Guayaquil by Catalina at 10.45 a.m. Arrive Baltra

16 July - Sail from Baltra to Academy Bay, Indefatigable Island.

17-19 July - Make preparations at Academy Bay.

20-23 July - Trip to "Tortoise Country," Indefatigable Island.

27 July - Academy, Bay to Duncan Island.