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WatchPro

DECEMBER 2017 / ISSUE 84


watchpro.com

BRITAIN’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH TITLE


WATCHPRO AWARDS

WHO WALKED AWAY


RETAIL DATA
GFK RECORDS
WITH THE GONGS AT FIRST ANNUAL DIP
THE UK'S ONLY IN WATCH SALES
SINCE 2016
AWARDS FOR
OUR BELOVED
WATCH
BUSINESS

>>>NEWS
ROUNDUP
PARTY PICS Catch up on the
Relive the breaking stories
excitement emerging from
of the WatchPro the British watch
Awards industry this
month

WATCHES OF THE YEAR


WatchPro reveals the 100 timepieces that have most successfully mixed
sensational design, technical innovation and commercial appeal this year
TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.

THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH,


UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE
HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF
LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE
SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE
YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH
THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL
TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO
CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF
FINE WATCHMAKING.
AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

IN STAINLESS STEEL
Oris Aquis Date
Automatic mechanical movement
Uni-directional rotating bezel
with black ceramic inlay
Water resistant to 30 bar/300 m
www.oris.ch
real watches for real people
COMMENT

End of year
celebrations
PROMEDIA PUBLISHING LTD

16-25 Bastwick Street, London, EC1V 3PS, UK


Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4228

I
Fax: +44 (0)20 3176 4231

n this, our last edition of 2017, WatchPro has crammed not one, but two features EDITORIAL
that review the best of this year. The scheduling of our coverage of the WatchPro
Managing Editor Rob Corder,
Awards and the Watches of the Year is, I have to admit, less than ideal. However,
rob.corder@itp.com
paradoxically, while it is a little confusing, it is also an opportunity to clear up any Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4227
confusion over the differences between the reports.
Editorial Director Andrew Seymour
WatchPro is a business to business title for British watch executives. Since there is very andrew.seymour@itppromedia.com
little watch manufacturing in the UK, we focus primarily on the retail industry, and its Assistant Editor: Emma Calder
relationship with the brands they represent and how these partners work together to emma.calder@itppromedia.com
profit from the sale of watches. Assistant Editor: Joshua Corder
joshua.corder@itppromedia.com
The relationships between retailers and watch company subsidiaries and wholesalers is
what the WatchPro Awards are all about. The voting process, where retailers vote for the COMMERCIAL
brands they most admire, and watch brand executives vote for the retailers they most
Publisher
admire, is fundamental to the WatchPro Awards.
Daniel Malins, daniel.malins@itppromedia.com
The winners of the 2017 Awards are revealed on pages 10-13 and feature some Tel: +44 (0)20 3176 4225

exceptional businesses from both the retail sector and the watch brand community.
DIGITAL
WatchPro’s Watches of the Year is the only time we publish any sort of reviews of the Database Management
timepieces that are typically made overseas and imported into the UK. There are far Vinod Alath, vinod.alath@itp.com
more expert watch reviewers than the WatchPro team when it comes to assessing the
gear trains, complications and guilloché finishes of this year’s collections. That is why PRODUCTION & DISTRIBUTION
we turn to retailers and other influencers to nominate the watches that have impressed Group Production & Distribution Director
them this year. Kyle Smith, kyle.smith@itp.com
Production & Systems Manager
It is a chance to recall and revisit watches that we initially saw in the first quarter of the Danny Corder, danny.corder@itppromedia.com
year in Geneva and Basel, and are now selling through to consumers in this, the Outsourcing Manager
most important month of the year for shopkeepers. Aamar Shawwa, aamar.shawwa@itp.com

Another way to look at the difference between the Watchpro Awards and the CIRCULATION
Watches of the Year is that former is about people and the latter is about products. SUBSCRIPTION CUSTOMER SERVICE
Those that know me will be aware which I find most interesting. +44 (0)20 3176 4228
subscriptions@itppromedia.com
With that housekeeping out of the way, I sign-off on the final magazine of 2017. You
will continue to receive news every day into your e-mail inbox, but I will take this
Web
opportunity to wish everybody a hugely successful Christmas trading period and
www.watchpro.com
hope that 2018 proves to be as spectacular as this year.
www.itppromedia.com

Rob Corder
The publishers regret that they cannot accept liabil-
ity for error or omissions in this publication, however
caused. The opinions and views contained in this publi-
cation are not necessarily those of the publishers. Read-
MANAGING EDITOR, WATCHPRO ers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting
on information contained in this publication, which is
provided for general use and may not be appropriate for
the readers’ particular circumstances.

The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part


of this publication or any part of the contents thereof
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted in any form without the permission of the
publishers in writing. An exception is hereby granted for
extracts used for the purpose of fair review.
NOVEMBER’S COVER PROMOTION COURTESY OF GIRARD PERREGAUX
Girard Perregaux has taken the sophistication of its Laureato family to a new level with Published by and copyright 2017
the Skeletonised Carbon edition featured on the front cover. The Laureato is defined by Promedia Digital Ltd, incorporated and
a polished octagonal bezel fitted on an integrated case with no lugs or loops. The use registered in the United Kingdom under
of ceramics further accentuates its ergonomic qualities while making the watch lighter, company number 10982417.
stronger and more difficult to scratch.

6 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


FRONT / NEWS REVIEW

DECEMBER’S NEWS DIGEST 08

WATCHPRO AWARDS 10

GFK RETAIL DATA 14

THIS MONTH IN THE WATCH INDUSTRY... WATCHES OF THE YEAR 19

ROTARY’S RECENTLY PROMOTED CEO PLEDGES


TO STEADY THE SHIP AFTER STORMY 2016
T
he scale of of a decline in consumer watch company with sales of “These results reflect a
challenges confidence following the Brexit £124 million in the UK last year, difficult period for the business,
facing the new vote. Brexit was also blamed for saw turnover fall by 10%. however, we continue to
management the fall in gross margins from Rotary has been owned take decisive action to adapt
of Rotary’s UK parent 50% in 2015 to 40% in 2016 as by Chinese conglomerate to the current challenging
organisation The Dreyfuss the pound weakened against CWJ since 2014 and has made environment and to position
Group Limited were laid the dollar. a number of changes to its our company for sustainable
bare this month as accounts 2016 was a tough year to senior management team this long-term growth based on
published at Companies House be selling the inexpensive year. profitable partnerships with
show turnover plunging by watches in which Rotary The company’s CEO our retailers,” Mr McKenna told
over one third last year. 2016 specialises, with the value Victoria Campbell resigned in WatchPro on the day the 2016
sales totaled £18 million, down of sales across all brands at February with the company’s accounts were published.
33.4% from £27 million in 2015. retail level falling by almost long standing sales director “Through 2017, we have
The group posted a full 13%, according to retail analyst Annette Hill-Stewart taking also made important
year operating loss of £6.5 GfK. However, The Dreyfuss interim control. In August, changes to our organisational
million, a massive drop from Group performed worse than the company’s multi-channel structure, supply chain, and
an operating profit of almost £2 competitors including Time director Peter McKenna was product offering and will
million in 2015. Products, owner of Sekonda promoted to the role of chief now strengthen our team to
A statement accompanying and Accurist, which saw sales executive and has been drive our three year strategic
The Dreyfuss Group accounts dip by only 4% in 2016. Fossil working on a turnaround plan plan and deliver operational
said that sales fell because Group, the UK’s largest fashion since taking charge. efficiencies,” he added.

FOR DAILY WATCH INDUSTRY NEWS UPDATES AND FEATURES VISIT WATCHPRO.COM AND FOLLOW @WATCHPRO ON TWITTER

8 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


NEWS REVIEW / FRONT

DECEMBER NEWS DIGEST


“Baselworld has decided to launch of smartwatches), but
maintain its outstanding quality for most consumers they are
for the next edition. The show committed to integrating both
does not rely on quantity, but their watch and a healthy
will remain the leading event for lifestyle into their daily routine,”
premier global brands. And this says Steve Evans, Fossil’s
in all segments,” a statement executive vice-president.
from the organiser MCH Swiss
Exhibition (Basel) Ltd said.

Omega has opened its own


online store in the United States
and said that it expects more
countries will follow in the near Breitling cut prices across
future. The news has been the board by 7% last month.
presented as part of steady The reduction was needed
march towards greater control after the company’s price rise
of global sales channels direct in April, the second increase
to consumers, either online or since the Brexit vote, made UK
via Omega’s own boutiques. prices too high. “The second
“Omega will continue to price increase in April pushed
develop its global network of The 10% price increase our pricing slightly out of our Zeon has signed a global
boutiques, which are still introduced by Rolex in international index. This move licensing deal that will see
considered to be an important November last year has is to realign this and UK into a it design, manufacture and
part of the shopping only partially addressed the more competitive position,” a distribute Jack Wills watches
experience. However, the differential enjoyed by the spokesperson told WatchPro. around the world. Neither Jack
rollout of e-commerce will add watchmaker’s authorised Wills nor Zeon have disclosed
yet another dimension which retailers in the UK. A study of Fossil has unveiled its first details of the contract, but
fulfils the needs of consumers,” global prices compiled by Rolex ever swim-proof touchscreen WatchPro understands the first
the company states. Forums contributor ‘Alpino’ and smartwatch with optical collection will be launched in
analysed by WatchPro shows heart rate monitor. The Fossil Autumn 2018. Jack Wills is a
that UK prices remain over 9% Q Control, which went on British fashion brand with sales
cheaper in the UK than the sale in select UK stores at of £131 million last year from 73
rest of the European Union. the beginning of December of its own stores in the UK and
The price difference is even for £279, is the most fitness- wholesale operations around
greater for people buying from friendly model to date. “The the world. The brand is known
outside the European Union, word fitness has evolved for youthful and sporty British
because they can reclaim the almost as much as the word preppy styles for men and
VAT on their purchases. Rolex watch (especially with the women.
does not allow its authorised
retailers to sell online. If it did,
customers in France would
Baselworld has said that immediately be able to save
the number of companies €692 when buying a Rolex
exhibiting in 2018 will be Submariner ref. 114060 from a
between 600 and 700. As UK retailer at today’s exchange
recently as 2014 there were rate of 1.13 euros to the pound.
around 1500 exhibitors, Rolex Watch Company Limited,
although this included the UK subsidiary of the Swiss
jewellery trade areas for gems watchmaker, reported sales of
and equipment. The world’s £268 million in 2016, a 41% rise
largest watch show has also over 2015, as the post-Brexit
been shortened from eight crash in the pound created the
days a few years ago to six. massive differential in prices.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 9


FRONT / 2017 WATCHPRO AWARDS

2017 WATCHPRO
AWARDS WINNERS
THOUSANDS OF BUSINESSES AND INDIVIDUALS WORK TIRELESSLY TO MAKE THE UK THE BEST PLACE
IN THE WORLD TO BUY WATCHES RANGING FROM FAST FASHION MODELS TO GRAND COMPLICATIONS.
THE WATCHPRO AWARDS CELEBRATE THE SUCCESS OF THIS AMAZING COMMUNITY, AND IT IS AN
ENORMOUS HONOUR TO PRESENT HERE THE WINNERS FOR 2017.
The 2017 WatchPro Awards were hosted in association with Hearst UK and sponsored by LBS
watch straps, Redd Retail Group, Kronaby, Mondaine, Wolf watch winders and Ingersoll.

Multiple Fashion Independent Fashion Independent Luxury


and Lifestyle Watch and Lifestyle Watch Watch Retailer of the
Retailer of the Year Retailer of the Year Year

LBS’s director Sam Rose presents the Kronaby’s Mark Ryder presents the Award Simon Walton, managing director and Simon
WatchPro Award to Beaverbrooks buyer to Jason Allum, MD, and Ivonna Poplanska, Oxby, operations manager of Berry’s collect
Nick Bucknell. jewellery design director, of Allum & Sidaway. their Award.

WINNER: BEAVERBROOKS WINNER: ALLUM & SIDAWAY WINNER: BERRY’S


In a Big Interview with WatchPro earlier Succeeding on the high street at the value WatchPro is convinced that Britain has
this year, Beaverbrooks chairman Mark end of the watch market has been tough the very finest watch retailers in the world.
Adlestone and CEO Anna Blackburn in the past few years as customers turn Whether mega multiples or smaller chains
conceded that they are not currently playing increasingly to online shops for fashion and like Berry’s, these businesses obsess about
in the very hottest parts of the UK watch lifestyle timepieces. customer service, understanding what their
market, namely high end luxury timepieces It takes the right mix of jewellery and clients want, knowing how they like to shop,
in central London. Despite this, the company watches, fantastic understanding of and delighting them at every interaction.
has maintained sales of almost £120 million customers and peerless service to make Anybody who has not been to Leeds to
for the past two years thanks to beautifully it work, which is exactly what multi-award see how Berry’s and its stablemate Owen
designed stores in great shopping centre winning Allum & Sidaway has achieves this & Robinson cater to Yorkshire’s passionate
locations across the UK. The company year. watch collectors is in for an eye-opening
is consistently named as one of the best Remarkably, the business managed to treat. Even before the current upgrade to
companies in the UK to work for, and this increase sales by 13% in its last financial its Albion Street flagship store, Berry’s is a
is leading to a fantastically well-trained and year. Very few of its independent peers worthy winner because of the diversity and
loyal team delivering outstanding service. could even dream of a success like that. precision of its retail offer.

10 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


2017 WATCHPRO AWARDS / FRONT

Multiple Luxury
Watch Retailer of the Year same day despatch

2018
Watches of Switzerland has
become such a strong brand in
WINNER: WATCHES
the UK that it feels able to cross OF SWITZERLAND
Brand New Catalogue
the Atlantic and will be opening
in New York and other American

FREE
cities next year. Its flagship at
155 Regent Street has become
a global destination for watch
collectors, but is just one among
many Watches of Switzerland
Order your copy online today
boutiques now springing up
as far apart as Brighton and
Manchester. The investment has Wolf owner Simon Wolf presents the
trophy to Mark Toulson, line director and
set a new bar for every other Faye Soteri, senior watch buyer at Aurum
competing business to reach. Holdings’ Watches of Switzerland.

Online-Only
Watch Retailer of the Year
Customers at the value end of
the watch market are increasingly
WINNER: WATCHSHOP
shopping online, and think
nothing of buying a fashionable
timepiece without ever trying
it on their wrists. There is more
and more competition between
online retailers to get punters
to add watches to baskets on
their websites, but WatchShop
remains market leader by a The most comprehensive
considerable margin, and a
worthy winner of the WatchPro
Alex Fisher, CEO of Watchshop, catalogue ever in our industry
collects the award from WatchPro’s
Award. Daniel Malins and Rob Corder.
• Improved layout & indexing
• Improved descriptions
Connected or Smartwatch • Hundreds more pages (over 1400)
Brand of the Year • Intuitive presentations
• A wealth of information
The connected and smartwatch
market has shown encouraging
WINNER: The layout exactly matches our website
growth this year, offsetting some MICHAEL KORS
of the decline in the number of making it the ideal way to browse and
fashion watches being sold, and then purchase at your convenience online.
nudging up average transaction
values for younger watch buyers.
Fossil Group has been at the
forefront of this transition, and
its Michael Kors watches are
notching record sales for the
Over 130,000 Products
second year in a row in this
Michael Kors’ Gemma Wharton, senior
sales manager, and Hannah Davis, Use us for your advantage
category. head of sales, collect the trophy.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 11

15. WatchPro_CMH18Catalogue_Dec17.indd 1 08/11/2017 09:31:38


FRONT / 2017 WATCHPRO AWARDS

Department Store Branded Watch Omnichannel


Watch Retailer of the Boutique of the Year Watch Retailer of the
Year Year

Jaeger LeCoultre’s Vanessa Jaulimsing,


deputy boutique manager and Zahra Kassim-
Selfridges team of Melissa O’Brian, Dan Watchfinder’s Jude Harrison, head of market-
Lakha, UK brand director.
Drakes, Jingjing Du, Grace Zhou, Nathan Ellis ing and Sam Beer, head of purchasing collect
collect their award. the award from Colin Lee, MD of Burton McCall.
WINNER: JAEGER-LECOULTRE
WINNER: SELFRIDGES ON LONDON’S BOND STREET WINNER: WATCHFINDER
We had a wide spectrum of finalists for this Jaeger-LeCoultre on London’s Bond Omnichannel retailers operate across
award including online-only department Street was voted for by executives of physical and online stores and all of the
store Mr Porter, mid-market giants John fellow watch brands as the best in the finalists have made massive strides in the
Lewis and House of Fraser, and London’s UK right now, perhaps because of the past few years to present themselves to
luxury emporiums Harrods, Selfridges sumptuous Art Deco style interiors that are customers in an equally sophisticated way
and William & Son. Selfridges, where its so complementary to the timepieces. The across cyberspace and the high street.
Wonder Room is run by Bucherer, won the boutique houses sweeping watch displays Award winner Watchfinder is the only
Award most likely because of the beautiful of current and historic models, a VIP room, finalist that began life entirely online, and
refurbishment that the space has completed watchmaking studio, and a movement only recently added seven stores. Perhaps
in the past year. It is 25% bigger and a far wall displaying a host of calibers past and this gave the business the edge to win the
more luxurious shopping experience. present. vote.

Executive Leadership Marketing & Luxury


Team of the Year Merchandising Watch Brand of the Year
Winner Team of the Year

Redd Retail Group director Karl Turnbull pre- Rolex partners like Aurum Holdings, which
Elie Barnes, marketing director, collects the sents the Award to Breitling’s Chris Park, head has more Rolex agencies than any other
Award for TAG Heuer. of UK sales, and Gavin Murphy, UK MD. group, are critical to the success of the brand.

WINNER: TAG HEUER WINNER: BREITLING WINNER: ROLEX


Rob Diver, managing director, Europe, for Breitling’s sales rose to over £42 million in What a year it has been for Britain’s
TAG Heuer, told WatchPro this year that the UK in the latest financial year thanks to biggest watch brand. The selective
the brand’s growth is dependent on the a persistent drive by the brand to improve distribution strategy adopted several
quality of the relationships with retailers. the presentation of its watches with retail years ago has produced a lean, motivated
The relationship cuts both ways and the partners and create pull through demand and impeccably professional network of
number of retailers voting in the WatchPro from consumers with creative and astute multiple and independent retailers. The
Awards for TAG Heuer to win showed how advertising. The company will admit that commitment of these retailers to Rolex is
much Mr Diver and his team are admired. It there are other brands that can demand incredible, and so are the returns. Rolex
has been an excellent year for LVMH Watch more prominent placement with retailers, but became the UK’s first quarter of a billion
and Jewellery Ltd in the UK, which recorded that means it has to be smarter with its visual pound brand in its latest financial year with
turnover rising almost 30% to £93 million. merchandising and above the line marketing. sales of £268 million.

12 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


2017 WATCHPRO AWARDS / FRONT

Fashion/Lifestyle
Watch Brand of the Year FIND OUT WHY
It has been an incredible year for
Olivia Burton, which was bought
WINNER: OLIVIA MORE RETAILERS
BURTON
in the summer by Movado
Group for £60 million. The THAN EVER BEFORE
company was launched by Lesa
Bennett and Jemma Fennings ARE BUYING THEIR
in 2011 and began selling fashion
watches under the Olivia Burton WATCH STRAPS
brand in 2012. It added jewellery
to its portfolio last year. Sales FROM LBS.
rose by 64% to £15 million in
2016, bucking a trend that has
Olivia Burton’s Hannah Williams, Lara
seen sales fall for most fashion McManmon, Jane Hebden and Louisa-
watch businesses. Dene Edwards.

Best New Watch Store or


Refurbishment
The UK has seen an investment
boom in recent years in store
WINNER: CASIO IN
environments. This investment LONDON’S CARNABY
has to be well-judged, and this
appears to be what swung it
STREET and SEIKO
for people voting in this year’s IN LONDON’S
Awards for joint winners Seiko
and Casio who take different
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
approaches: Seiko is using its
Knightsbridge store to showcase
its most prestigious models,
including Grand Seiko. Casio’s
G-Shock store on the famously
fashionable Carnaby Street
presents its cutting-edge youthful
Seiko and Casio are joint winners of
styles across Mr G, G-Shock and the WatchPro Award for Best New
Edifice. Store or Refurbishment.

Sales Team of the Year: ZEON


Selling into retail is no longer
enough. Great sales teams must
now work with marketing and call us today for a free
merchandising across physical
and digital channels to ensure sample pack and see what
that watches sell through for
retailers. Many companies have
Zeon MD Simon Gilham and head all the fuss is about.
of Sales Javier Guerra.
raised their games in this respect,
but retailers voted for Zeon, at Zeon, with Gieves & Hawkes tel: 01992 470 369
which has turned Ingersoll, Braun
and Vivienne Westwood watches
agreeing a license deal for
watches that will launch in the
www.lbslondon.co.uk
into winners. This success has next few months, and with Jack
unlocked further opportunities Wills for launch in 2018.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 13


FRONT / RETAIL SALES DATA

British watch sales dip in October


GFK REPORTS THAT ANNUAL GROWTH EVAPORATED IN OCTOBER, WITH THE TOTAL VALUE OF SALES AT ALL PRICE
POINTS DIPPING FOR THE FIRST TIME. WATCHPRO LOOKS INTO THE FIGURES AND THE STORY BEHIND THEM.

T
he total value of watch sales in Great rival international markets. It was also the last
Britain fell by 1.3% in October, the first month before Rolex raised its prices by 10% on
year-on-year dip since December November 1.
last year, according to GfK data. The The average price paid for a watch in Great
watch industry drop is the same as the Britain was up by 12.5% in October over the
wider retail sector, which saw YoY sales fall same month in 2016, half the rate for the year-to-
by 0.3% in October, according to the Office date, which has seen average prices rise by 25%
for National Statistics (ONS). Higher inflation compared to the January-October period in 2016.
dampened spending, the ONS said, and The annual average price rise is expected This data is supplied by
that October last year had seen very strong to drop even further in November when GfK, the UK’s leading ana-
growth.. comparisons are made to the month after Rolex lyst of retail performance
October 2016 was also an exceptional year for increased prices. The value of watches priced at and consumer confidence.
the GB watch industry, with sales rising by over over £1000 rose by 53% last October, and London For information please
27% in the month as the weakness of the pound sales rose by 55% as wealthy tourists flooded in or visit www.gfk.com
gave UK retailers a massive price advantage over bought online from British retailers.

Total GB Watch Market (Sales Value GBP) Total GB Watch Market (Sales Volume (Units)
-1.3% October 2017 October 2017 -12.3%
11.4% January 2017 - October 2017 January 2017 - October 2017 -10.8%
7.1% November 2016 - October 2017 November 2016 - October 2017 -13.5%
-2 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 -15 -12 -9 -6 -3 0

Online sales (Sales Value GBP) Online sales (Sales Volume (units)
3.5% October 2017 October 2017 -1.6%

9.0% January 2017 - October 2017 January 2017 - October 2017 0.9%

3.6% November 2016 - October 2017 November 2016 - October 2017 -2.3%

0 2 4 6 8 10 -2.5 -2.0 -1.5 -1.0 -0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0

London (ISBA region) Sales Value GBP Rest of GB (Sales Value GBP)
-8.3% October 2017 4.4% October 2017

16.0% January 2017 - October 2017 8.1% January 2017 - October 2017

14.9% November 2016 - October 2017 2.2% November 2016 - October 2017
-10 -5 0 5 10 15 20 0 2 4 6 8 10

Price (<£100) Price (£100 - £500)


October 2017 -11.5% October 2017 --9.1%

January 2017 - October 2017 -9.7% January 2017 - October 2017 -8.6%

November 2016 - October 2017 -12.3% November 2016 - October 2017 -12.2%
-15 -12 -9 -6 -3 0 -14 -12 -10 -8 -6 -4 -2 0

14 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


RETAIL SALES DATA/ FRONT

Price (£500 - £1,000) Price (>£1,000)

October 2017 -5.8% 2.7% October 2017

January 2017 - October 2017 1.0% 23.0% January 2017 - October 2017

November 2016 - October 2017 -0.5% 20.8% November 2016 - October 2017
-6 -2 2 6 0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Strap performance (<Grand Total>) Strap performance (CERAMIC)

-1.3% October 2017 October 2017 -15.5%


11.4% January 2017 - October 2017 January 2017 - October 2017 -17.5%
7.1% November 2016 - October 2017 November 2016 - October 2017 -23.0%
-2 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 -30 -25 -20 -15 -10 -5 0

Strap performance (LEATHER) Strap performance (METAL)

-7.8% October 2017 -2.7% October 2017

9.4% January 2017 - October 2017 11.6% January 2017 - October 2017

6.7% November 2016 - October 2017 7.5% November 2016 - October 2017
-8 -6 -4 -2 0 2 4 6 8 10 -4 -2 0 2 4 6 8 10 12

Strap performance (OTHERS) LADIES (Sales Value GBP)

29.1% October 2017 October 2017 -3.8%

20.6% January 2017 - October 2017 January 2017 - October 2017 3.0%

10.9% November 2016 - October 2017 November 2016 - October 2017 -0.5%
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 -4.0 -3.3 -2.6 -1.9 -1.2 -0.5 0.2 0.9 1.6 2.3 3.0

GENTS (Sales Value GBP) UNISEX (Sales Value GBP)

-2.8% October 2017 41.2% October 2017

13.9% January 2017 - October 2017 40.5% January 2017 - October 2017

10.0% November 2016 - October 2017 31.5% November 2016 - October 2017
-3 0 3 6 9 12 15 0 10 20 30 40 50

CHILDRENS (Sales Value GBP) AVERAGE SELLING PRICE (GBP)

October 2017 -12.4% 12.5% October 2017

January 2017 - October 2017 -4.1% 24.9% January 2017 - October 2017

November 2016 - October 2017 -7.9% 23.9% November 2016 - October 2017
-15 -12 -9 -6 -3 0 0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28 32

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 15


MONDAINE BACKLIGHT

THE SOLUTION IS BRILLIANT
IN ITS SIMPLICITY!
As iconic as the Official Swiss Railways Watch design has become,
the time of the distinctive dial could not be read in the dark.
Mondaine found a creative, yet surprisingly simple solution to
make the time visible at night.

This year marks a new chapter for Mondaine. The outcome is that of a continual charge: the
As iconic as the Official Swiss Railways design light, which the coated luminous (Superluminova)
has become, with its characteristic hands and back side of the hands releases in the dark, is
the highly visible bold hour and minute markers reflected onto the white dial, the light from the
creating a distinctive, strong picture that is dial is reflected back to the luminous foil on the
perceived worldwide as a timeless Swiss classic, back side of the hands, continuously recharging
Mondaine is proud to announce a new dimension the luminous material, creating a kind of perpet-
to its formative design codes. Noticing that in the ual glow. Mondaine has a patent pending on this
dark, the time of the distinctive dial could not be great innovation. This unique technology has
read, Mondaine began to seek a solution and as been added to three of its collections and will be
ever with Mondaine, the one it found was brilliant launched this month.
in its simplicity; to add luminous paint to the back
side of the watch hands.

Mondaine Backlight
Technology allows good
visibility of the hands
at night, without any
disturbing visual effect
of the design.
During daytime, the white dial reflects the
light and charges the luminous foil attached to
the back side of the hands. During the night,
the luminous foil releases the light again, (the
longevity of this light is dependent on how well For further information on Mondaine or the
the luminous paint is charged in daylight). The Backlight collection contact Burton McCall
light is then reflected by the dial, releasing a glow Email: sales@bml-watches.com
around the hands to make time easy to read. Tel: 0116 234 4656
Mondaine uses a thin foil coated
with Swiss-made, extra strong
Superluminova material that is used
frequently in the watch industry,
allowing long visibility at night.

DESIGNATED COLLECTIONS
FOR LAUNCH:

MONDAINE SBB MONDAINE SBB MONDAINE SBB


STOP2GO - 41 MM MINI GIANT - 35 MM GIANT - 42 MM
MST.4101B.LB MSX.3511B.SM MSX.4211B.LB
£ 499.00 £ 229.00 £ 219.00
fine mechanical watchmaking, from japan.

Trimatic symbolizes three Seiko inventions


that ensure the highest levels of reliability
and durability in its mechanical watches.

Seiko Boutique
57 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW3 1DP TEL: 020 3105 6212
WELCOME / WATCH OF THE YEAR

WORLD-BEATING RETAILERS
CONTINUE TO BREAK RECORDS
After last year’s Brexit vote sent shock punters prefer department stores,
waves across the UK economy, watch they’ll find the best in the world here too.
retailers braced for shattered consumer Independent jewellers have had a tough
confidence to stall sales. The slump never year, but the best are embracing social
materialised, largely due to the weakened media to turn micro-targeting of their local
pound making Britain the cheapest place area into sales.
in the world to buy luxury watches. London, Even the world’s greatest retailers need
in particular started a massive boom in exceptional product to push, and in the
summer of 2016 that continued deep into following pages WatchPro presents the
this year. pieces that we feel are the 2017 Watches
Every high end watchmaker had to raise of the Year. As only WatchPro can, we have
prices in order to stop retail partners in mixed top end tourbillons from the biggest
other parts of the world haemorrhaging maisons with the sort of fashion fixes that
sales to British rivals. punters can buy as a pay day treat.
But price is not the only reason British Because what delights us most is
watch sales are booming. Over the past business success; the alchemy where
decade, and particularly the last five years, design, innovation, engineering,
millions has been invested by anufacturing, branding, merchandising,
retailers in creating sumptuous spaces salesmanship and customer service come
in which to shop. London’s West End and together to turn horology into hard cash.
Knightsbridge; Leeds’ Commercial Street; There is a brand new category looking
Glasgow’s Argyll Arcade and Manchester’s this year at British designed watches. We
St Anne’s Square are watch shopping know that the UK has a very long way to go
destinations of global significance. No other before it can call itself a watchmaking
country in the world has such sophistication. country, but that does not mean we do
At the value end of the spectrum, not have incredible entrepreneurs, artists
British retail is just as sophisticated and and engineers building valuable watch
forward-looking. If customers want to buy businesses. We are delighted to honour and
fashion watches online, that is where our support their endeavours.
entrepreneurial shopkeepers will invest. If

2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 19


WATCH OF THE YEAR / BRITISH DESIGNED
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
BRITISH

BRITISH DESIGNED
FASHION

WATCH OF THE YEAR


SPORTS

FROM CLEAN CLASSIC STYLES TO COMPLICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS, THESE WATCHES ALL HAVE
BOUNDLESS LUXURY APPEAL IN COMMON.
INNOVATION
MECHANICAL

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
LADIES

WINNER: BREMONT 1918X

T
he Imperial War Museum in London was a fitting back-
CLASSIC

drop to the launch of Bremont’s flagship limited edition


launch of the year, the 1918. The collection has been
created ahead of the RAF’s centenary year in 2018, and
highlights Bremont’s close association to both the avia-
tion and armed forces communities.
LIMITED ED.

There are three models in the collection, each incorporating


fragments of historic aircraft: a Bristol Blenheim, a Superma-
rine Spitfire and a Hawker Hurricane that all flew during the
summer of 1940. Each of these Battle of Britain aircraft forms a
propeller blade in the rotor and are complemented by a veneer
SHOWSTOPPERS

of original wood from the Shuttleworth Collection’s 1917 SE5a


at its centre.
A limited production of 275 steel cased and white dialled Bre-
mont 1918s are to being made priced at £8495; 75 white gold
with a two-toned blue dial at £16,995, and 75 in rose gold set off
by a black dial for £15,995, with a percentage of profit going to
RISING-STARS

the Royal Air Forces Association charity.


Bremont is a master at blockbuster launch events, but the
1918’s unveiling was the company’s most successful to date,
with every one of the limited edition watches allocated to retail-
ers within 24 hours.

20 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR BRITISH WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ELLIOT BROWN BROADSTONE 505-001


CLIPPER RACE UTC LIMITED EDITION

BRITISH
British watchmaker Elliot Brown is obsessed with sailing
and other watersports. The team was delighted to sign up
to become the official timekeeper for this year’s Clipper
Round the World Yacht Race and to produce a limited edition
Broadstone Adventurer to promote alongside the race.
The Broadstone 505-001 Clipper Race UTC
Limited Edition is limited to just 1000 pieces and
priced at £495. It is a virtually indestructible
timepiece, designed to survive on the wrist
of a round the world adventurer, thanks to CHRISTOPHE R WARD C60
Elliot Brown’s proven shock and water-
proofing systems.
TRIDENT C60 DAY DATE
The watch has a UTC hand, (the LIMITED EDITION
global timing system used at sea) to
allow Clipper Race crews to keep a close Christopher Ward added two bang-on-trend limited
eye on the time in an additional zone, editions to its Trident collection of chronometer diver
either at home or in the next port, via watches in the summer. The C60 Trident Pro COSC
the 24 hour markings engraved on the Limited Edition and the C60 Trident Day Date COSC
outer bezel. In another sailing reference, the Limited Edition have white guilloche wave pattern dials,
indexes on the dial are red on the left hand lume-filled hands and indexes, red highlights and a red
side and green on the right – the same colour seconds hand with the signature Trident counterbalance.
coding to denote port and starboard on a boat. The limited editions have a black bezel with a minute
marker ring and a luminous pip in a red inverted triangle
at 12 o’clock. We particularly like the £860 C60 Trident
Day Date that houses the chronometer-certified Swiss-
made ETA 2836 movement. The watches are waterproof
GARRICK PORTSMOUTH to 600m, although the current world record depth for a

WITH GUILLOCHE DIAL scuba dive is 332m.

Garrick has added a guilloche dial option to the Ports-


mouth line the British company launched last year. The
HENRY LONDON
2017 edition builds on the success of a watch that con- MEN’S ICONIC
tained the company’s own hand -wound movement, the
UT-G01. British watch business Peers Hardy
The guilloche dial was first offered as a bespoke option launched Henry London in 2015 as a brand
available only on commission, but has been developed that it owns, designs, manufactures and sells
into a core model, albeit in a limited quantity of 20 pieces world-wide. This year it introduced a range
priced at £17,995. There are 10 pieces with dials made from of mechanical watches using Japanese
silver, and a further 10 made from anthracite. mechanical movements called the
The brand’s distinctive bevelled and thermally blued Heritage Automatic Collection, but
Maritime hands, made in-house and first seen on the Nor- the brand remains at its best with
folk, are retained on the guilloche model. affordable quartz watches like the
featured Iconic model, which sells
for just under £100 with a two year
guarantee.
The combination of its 40mm PVD rose
gold-plated case with matching hour
markers, the rich blue dial and the brown
leather strap, are designed to appeal to
classicists – very much the target market for
Henry London, which wants the world to
love traditional wristwatches again.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 21


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR BRITISH WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

LARSSON & JENNINGS AVI-8 BATTLE OF BRITAIN LIMITED EDITION


BRITISH

With Andrew Jennings in sole control of the


AV-4046
watch company he created with Joakim Larsson AVI-8 created a limited edition of its with the lower layer embossed with
since 2014, we can safely call it a business mak- Hawker Hurricane model this year to a subtle horizontal pattern indicating
ing entirely British-designed timepieces. The firm commemorate the Battle of Britain. The 5 minute intervals in vintage 1940s
is celebrating its fifth anniversary this year, and 43mm diameter watch, housing a Japa- typography.
has been pushing successfully into wholesale nese automatic movement, is a classic Production is limited to 1963 pieces,
distribution to a growing retail channel. There are vintage pilot style with a scratch-resist- the exact number of aircraft that took
anniversary editions of its Norse and Saxon lines, ant sapphire glass front, coin edged part in the Battle of Britain in 1940.
but its most successful Jura watches deserve crown and hand-polished bezel.
special mention this year, and It comes on a leather or Nato nylon
we particularly like some of the strap in a range of military colours and
striking colour combinations ships in a collectable presentation case.
introduced since the summer The dial is an intriguing mix of depth
including this 38mm Lugano and detail. The base panel captures the
Jura red enamel dial with concentric circles outline of the RAF
silver markers model. upon a three armed panel which lifts
The £240 Swiss-made the 12, 4 and 8 hour indexes. A raised
watch comes on an Italian tension ring demarcates the minutes
red leather strap befitting
of a timepiece that wants
to be considered a cut above
more mass market Scandi-style
FARER HECLA AQUA COMPRESSOR
timepieces. Farer unveiled its first divers’ a diver will ever descend, and keeps
watches in September, less than a year out water using gaskets that are
after the launch of its first automatics compressed by rising pressure below
FEARS BRUNSWICK in November 2016. The Hecla
Aqua Compressor collection,
the water so that the timepiece
becomes more resistant to
Given that Fears can trace its heritage back priced competitively at £1095 water the deeper it goes.
170 years, the British business revived by Nicholas (available only direct from the This protects the Swiss
Bowman-Scargill, the original founder’s great-great- manufacturer) have 41mm ETA 2824-2 Elaboré Non-
great-grandson, is right to go in the direction of cushion-shaped steel cases Date Movement, which
more traditional watchmaking. The £1,750 Brun- with twin screw-down crowns can be seen through a
swick picks up shapes and silhouettes emerging in for adjusting the time and a sapphire crystal case
British design in the 1920s and 30s and is directly uni-directional internal bezel back. Each watch is
inspired by a sterling silver Fears watch dating used to indicate remaining time individually numbered and
from 1924. for a dive. comes with both a rubber
The watch is not just designed in Britain, the The watch is waterproof to strap and steel bracelet.
cushion case, enamel dial, and hands have been depths of 300m, far deeper than .
engineered and produced entirely in this country.
The 38mm steel Brunswick was exhibited for
the first time this year, but will be produced in rela-
tively small runs for delivery
STORM LONDON MAGNITOR
early next year, the com- Storm has been doing its bit bullet displaying the time. Seconds
pany says. Good things are for world peace this year with the are shown on a disk that rotates
worth waiting for, and pa- launch of Magnitor, a watch that around a radiation sign, signifying
tience will be rewarded makes a statement about glob- a bold statement in the hope of
with a watch housing al wars, nuclear threat and ending wars and global uncer-
an ETA 7001 manual terrorism, the company tainties, Storm explains.
winding mechanical says. The Special Edition Magni-
movement that can be The watch sounds like a tor, available for a limited
seen through a crystal Marvel Universe baddy and time only, is inspired by re-
case back. Customers looks like it would survive bellion and love hopes to fight
can even specify the style Armageddon with a steel injustice one wrist at a time, the
and colour of the alligator plate in front of a dial that has company adds.
leather strap, but it is hard to an aperture in the shape of a The watch, with black or Storm’s

22 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


AFFORDABLE / WATCH OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

AFFORDABLE
WATCH OF THE YEAR
PREMIUM STYLING AND SURPRISING SOPHISTICATION IN WATCHES THAT WON’T BREAK
THE BANK.

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
WINNER: ORIS BIG CROWN
1917 LIMITED EDITION

T
he Big Crown Automatic stainless steel silver
dial men’s watch hits the bullseye with this
year’s trend for retro styling. The watch faith-
fully recreates elements of a timepiece Oris
recently discovered in its archives covering
the 1910s including its onion-shaped big crown, early
20th century Arabic numerals, blued steel hands, and
domed glass. Even the vintage Oris logo has been
revived.
The design may be retro, but the internal workings
are brand new, with Oris creating the Calibre 732 for
the timepiece. The movement has a quirky feature
straight from the archive watch: its hours and minute
hands can only be adjusted when its pusher at 2
o’clock is pressed so that fidgety pilots didn’t acciden-
tally get the time wrong.
Only 1917 units of the £1310 Big Crown Limited edi-
tion were made this year, but we hope Oris will revisit
that decision and keep this classic going.

WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 23


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR AFFORDABLE WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE JUNGHANS MEISTER MANUAL


60TH ANNIVERSARY STAINLESS STEEL
It is 60 years since Longines introduced its first Flagship Gentleman’s style shopping site Mr Porter and watch
collection in 1957, an anniversary that is being specialists like Bucherer agree that the clean German styling
marked with a classical timepiece that would of Junghans’ Meister Manual is right for their discerning
AFFORDABLE

not have looked out of place in the mid 20th customers. At £1,310, it is a considered purchase in the
century. The timeless combination of an increasingly competitive affordable luxury market. There
uncluttered white dial in a steel or gold, is much to admire about the whole Meister range, which
slim profile case with crisply angular includes pilot watches, drivers watches, dress watches and
hands and markers that will never even ladies’ models.
show their age; a perfect blend of They sit squarely in the affordable
technical mastery and subdued luxury category because the build
elegance, Longines correctly notes. quality that expert manufacturer
Brand ambassador Kate Winslet Junghans brings to each piece and
reportedly chose the design for the desirability of the mechanical
this anniversary edition, and showed movements they contain. The
impeccable taste with an understated Meisters feel like an upgrade
38.5m men’s watch that any Hollywood from the equally well-made
actress would also happily wear. and stylish Max Bills because
The steel editions have been produced in of their automatic and self-
a limited quantity of 1,957 priced at £1390, winding calibres.
while only 60 each of the yellow gold or The stainless steel Meister
rose gold watches were made. shown here is stripped back
to the very essence of dress
watch timekeepers, with the only
embellishments being the Junghans
MEISTERSINGER NO.03 40MM mark of quality at 12 o’clock and a
small seconds at 6.
Few modern watchmakers make timepieces that are
instantly recognisable across a train carriage, but you can’t
miss a Meistersinger with its single hand telling the time
to connoisseurs who think of minutes and seconds a little
RAYMOND WEIL FREELANCER
differently to the more obsessive among us.
Taking the No.03 down to 40mm in diameter this year is a
AUTOMATIC DAVID BOWIE
smart move as over-sized pieces fall Raymond Weil has worked its way into the enviable position
out of fashion. Making it 1mm slim- of being trusted to make tribute watches for some of the music
mer was also a good move to keep industry’s most iconic acts. Families responsible for guarding the
the pleasing proportions and legacies of The Beatles and Buddy Holly were first to work with
wearability of previous models. the watchmaker, and this year David Bowie joined the exclusive
Little else has changed, and circle. The watches are no cheesy tribute acts. They are the result of
why should it? The double impeccable research into the artists they honour, painstaking work
digit hour markers make with their guardians and careful calibration of the views of fans.
reading the time surpris- The Freelancer Automatic David Bowie is another perfect example,
ingly easy and the date created to celebrate what would have been the singer’s 70th
display at 6 o’clock is birthday in 2017. The watch has a portrait of David Bowie on the
well-judged. case back recreated from a picture taken in 1974 by legendary
The 2017 collection photographer Terry O’Neill. The 42 mm
comes in three highly wear- diameter steel case has a dial
able colour combinations: resembling a vinyl record
opaline silver, ivory, and a blue with a red lightning bolt
dial with a fine sunburst design at 12 o’clock taken from
and striking red quarter-hourly the cover image of
markings. They sell for around Bowie on the Aladdin
£1645 in the UK. Sane album in 1973.
The limited edition
pieces ell for £1,395.

24 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


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HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR AFFORDABLE WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT MANUFACTURE VISCONTI OPERA GMT


MOONPHASE STARS Italian watch brand Visconti is loves to remind
its customers about the centuries of creativity
WatchPro may have been with or without rose gold plating, coming out of its home country ranging from
slightly influenced to include which houses the 26th mechanical modern icons like the Fiat 500 to Hollywood mov-
this delightful ladies’ Slim- movement made in house by the ie stars and, above all, opera. 1960s movie classic
AFFORDABLE

line Moonphase Manu- Swiss company. La Dolce Vita, written and directed by Federico
facture Stars in our The setting of the launch was Fellini is emblematic of Italy’s lust for life, and pro-
Watches of the Year entirely fitting as we gazed at vides inspiration for Visconti’s Roma 60s collection
having been first the moon and stars above of timepieces.
shown the watch and on the night sky blue dial The Visconti Opera is a star piece from the
at a beautiful event of the watch. Eight diamonds collection with its multi-level combining techni-
in Nice. Co-founders are used as hour markers on the cal complexity with beauti-
Aletta and Peter Stas dial, and another 60 in the bezel ful design. The 43.5mm
took press to a hillside ob- added to the sparkling theme. Aletta satin-finished steel watch
servatory overlooking the Stas described the £3600 watch as houses a Swiss made
French Riviera to present an elegant fusion of femininity and Sellita movement pow-
the 38.8mm steel watch, artisanship. ering hours, minutes,
seconds, a date ap-
erture at 6 o’clock and

BAMFORD WATCH DEPARTMENT HEUER a second time zone dial


in the centre. The Roma
AUTAVIA collection sells for around
£2,900 in the UK.
Less an individual every component is supplied from
timepiece, more a concept
covering an infinite number
the LVMH before getting the Bamford
treatment.
MAURICE LACROIX
of customised watches, Customers are able to design their MASTERPIECE MOON
Bamford Watch
Department is bringing
own watches on the Bamford
Watch Department website. RETROGRADE
personalisation to the They first choose model, in the The big volume of Maurice Lacroix sales in the
moneyed masses. case of TAG Heuer they can UK are for its Eliros watches, which retail for around
The London-based start with a Monaco for £7500, £500. But retailers should push further up the watch-
business has been an Autavia for £7000 or Carerra maker’s portfolio because for less than four grand
officially authorised this for £4500. Next they can choose they could offer some truly top end horology in the
year to sell personalised the colour of the dial, the markers, form of the Masterpiece Double Retrograde (£3,990),
watches by Zenith and TAG the logo and the hands. BWD says the which launched this year.
Heuer this year. That means customiser has over a billion options. The dial has an unusual layout with hours, minutes
and a small seconds display at 9 o’clock and a power
reserve indicator adjacent the crown. Below noon, a
OFFICINE PANERAI LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS retrograde hand displays the hour in a second time
zone, while above 6 o’clock the date is displayed with
MANUAL TITANIUM BLUE DIAL a second retrograde hand. It sounds complicated but
is surprisingly easy to read at a glance.
It is rare to meet a serious watch uniqueness and street credibil- The complications are driven by an automatic
collector that doesn’t have a soft ity among fellow collectors. manufacture movement, the ML191, which can be
spot for Panerai. The Italian his- The watch comes in a admired via the sapphire glass on the back of its
tory, the attachment to World polished titanium 42mm, 43mm steel case. The watch is offered with a black or
War II submarine crews, the case smaller than other silver dial.
quirky and instantly recognis- Panerais and better
able design contribute to its for it. The blue sun-
enormous popularity. For the brushed dial with cuta-
money, around £7,400 for the way hour markets is mes-
Luminor Due 3 Days Manual merizing. It is waterproof
with its titanium case and blue to 30m so the hand-wound
dial that we feature here, it feels like mechanical P.1000 calibre is
you get an awful lot of watch, quality, fully protected.

26 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


SMART / WATCH OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SMART OR CONNECTED
WATCH OF THE YEAR
A STRONG CATEGORY, THESE ROBUST WATCHES ARE PERFECTLY SUITED TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS
AND A COMPETITIVE SPIRIT WITH FUNCTIONALITY TO MATCH.

SMART
WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER: MICHAEL KORS WINNER
ACCESS LADIES’ SOPHIE

B
ecause batteries take up space and
touchscreens need to be large enough
to tap and swipe, the majority of suc-
cessful smartwatches are larger and
best suited to men. Fossil Group, and
particularly Michael Kors, has been the best this
year at overcoming these technical limitations for
a timepiece that combines the fashionable ap-
pearance that its female customers demand with
all the functionality that Android Wear 2.0 brings.
The great achievement with the £349 Sophie
(named after the fashion house’s most popular
tote handbags) is that it delivers exactly what its
target market of young, fashionable ladies wants.
It is light and stylish with just enough bling with its
crystal encrusted bezel. The screen is sharp and
readable, even in bright daylight. And the watch
has enough processing power and storage to run
the messaging, social media, calendar and music
apps girls will want. It connects via Bluetooth to a
smartphone or to wireless earphones.
It even has Google Assistant on board, so eve-
rything can be activated by voice commands.
This provides a considerable opportunity for app
developers, which are bringing more and more
apps to market to the Android Wear platform.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 27


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SMART WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CASIO EDIFICE TAG HEUER


RACE LAP CHRONOGRAPH CONNECTED KINGSMAN
It is fascinating how different watch companies are taking different TAG Heuer’s Connected makes it into our Watches
approaches to the emerging smartwatch and connected timepiece of the Year for a second time in succession. On this
category. The best strategy, as we see here with Casio Edifice, is to occasion we have gone for the limited edition Kingsman
identify what your target customer wants from their watch, and give edition, which was launched exclusively at Britain’s
them that but with added functionality. Mr Porter online gentleman’s style portal. The limited
The Edifice Race Lap Chronograph, developed as part of Casio’s edition shows the flexibility of the Connected, not just
partnership with the Scuderia Toro Rosso F1 team, is aimed squarely from the perspective of its bright and pin-clear AMOLED
at motor racing enthusiasts who want high-performance watches touchscreen, but also from the combination of its blue or
that combine dynamic styling with cutting-edge technology. First and grey bezel with interchangeable
foremost, this is a traditional sports watch with straps that include a striking
robust index marks and inset dials that mirror orange that matches a
the look of an dashboard instrument panel. smoking jacket worn in the
A retrograde inset dial at the 9 o’clock Kingsman: The Golden
position has a 3D hand that indicates Circle film by Taron
information such as 1/20th seconds for Egerton.
SMART

the stopwatch, smartphone pairing, It is this versatility


and battery level. In addition, the that drives the success
hand powers up just like the initial of the Connected. It
movement of a car tachometer when is a 45mm Android
a car engine starts. A target time Wear 2.0 smartwatch
indicator acts as a smart stopwatch that can be swapped
that can be set to record and update out for a COSC-certified
target times and upload any data to a paired Chronograph mechanical
smartphone, where the lap times are displayed module. Moreover, the strap
as a graph and as units of 1/1000th of a second. or bracelet, the bezel, the lugs,
can all be changed by the
customer to turn the watch into
KRONABY APEX BLACK a transformer of different styles.

WatchPro has been a fan of Kronaby ever since visiting


the company’s headquarters in Malmo, Sweden, and learn-
ing the background to a business with the talent to turn its
TIMEX
expertise in the Internet of Things into beautifully-made FAIRFIELD CONTACTLESS
items that people will want to own and wear.
Kronaby watches only took shape as an concept at the Some watch companies have made enormous leaps into
end of 2015, but by March this year, the company was at the world of consumer electronics with the launch of full blown
Baselworld introducing its first full production collection smartwatches, others have taken a more evolutionary approach
to retailers. The watches are already gain- by adding connectivity to best-sellers and focusing on delivering
ing traction with watch shops in the UK, apps that deliver incremental extra functionality
which are reporting great sales through to without taking away from the pleasure of
consumers as well. wearing a beautiful timepiece.
Kronaby puts classic watchmaking Timex is currently taking the latter
disciplines like build quality and aes- approach with models like its IQ+ and,
thetics ahead of geeky stuff like apps featured here, the Fairfield Contactless.
and connectivity (this stuff is sec- The Fairfield is a key line of fashion
ond nature to Kronaby because watches for Timex that hits all the right
the team comes from the mobile notes of minimalist design that is en
phone industry). This has led to vogue right now. The watch can be
watches that are a real pleasure to used as a contactless payment device
wear. The £545 Apex Black happens thanks to bPay technology from Barclaycard
to be our favourite. The monochrome incorporated into the sleek leather straps.
watch face pops with legibility and bPay enables wearers to make safe and fast
works effortlessly with the masculine PVD purchases of £30 and under at over 490,000
coated black case and steel bracelet. locations across the UK.

28 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


22 – 27 March 2018
Basel – Switzerland

Witness the
Dawn of
Trends
Be there when the world‘s most important watch trends that will capture the world’s attention in 2018.
and jewellery brands present their latest innovations Only Baselworld brings together the most prestigious
and creations. March 22 marks the start of six days brands, the most influential media and world-class
during which the foremost watch and jewellery buyers. Come and experience first-hand tomorrow’s
brands convene in Basel to unveil a new cycle of trends. Baselworld: the Show of world premieres!
B ASELWOR LD.CO M
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SMART WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MYKRONOZ MONTBLANC SUMMIT


ZETIME REGULAR Montblanc CEO Nicolas Baretzki Montblanc 1858 collection and is well
If you haven’t heard of MyKronoz yet, you soon says his company is taking the smart- proportioned in its PVD-coated steel
will. The company is one of the hottest start-up watch market very seriously. In an 46mm case that is only 12.5mm thick.
watch companies on crowd funding platform Kick- interview in November with The case, bezel and crown all have
starter, having raised $6 million from 30,000 back- Luxury Society, he said that the the same combination of satin
ers in its latest round for the hybrid smartwatch launch of Summit is a landmark and polished finish.
ZeTime. moment because it connects The sapphire crystal AMOLED
The ZeTime is a hybrid smartwatch with me- Montblanc — digitally and touchscreen with 400x400px
chanical hands over a TFT colour touchscreen. It commercially — to a young- resolution is the window into
is sold as a watch that combines the classic design er demographic. all the Android Wear 2.0
of a traditional Swiss timepiece with the most ad- The Summit is a seri- applications including a
vanced features of a smartwatch. ous player in the smart- nice suite of travel-friendly
Most touchscreen smart- watch space thanks to apps such as voice transla-
watches, like the Apple its combination of Swiss tion, navigation and boarding
Watch, have to be charged watchmaking codes with pass, order a ride and setting
every night. The same the latest digital connectivity a world timer. Other pre-loaded
SMART

is true of ZeTime’s, but and functionality. The design apps include Runtastic, Uber and
the addition of analogue is familiar to fans of the classic Foursquare alongside the usual.
hands means that it will at
least keep telling the time
for a month. The £180 hy-
brid is available in 44mm and
LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR HORIZON
39mm models. There was a murmur of surprise does the same thing as a 50p bag for
when quintessentially French luxury life from Tesco.
maison Louis Vuitton introduced a Selling the dream of luxury travel
EMPORIO ARMANI smartwatch for over £2000 is what LV does best, and it

CONNECTED in the UK. Smartwatches this


year do not vary dramatically
takes this experience into
the smartwatch world with a
in the way they are made connected wearable designed
It is a safe bet that when John Lewis, Beaver- and what they can do, so to jet around the globe in
brooks and TH Baker (including its fast-growing the Michael Kors Sophie style. Android Wear 2.0
online watch shop House of Watches) all agree to (£349) and the Louis runs a suite of apps
stock a breakthrough timepiece like the Emporio Vuitton Tambour (£2140) including Louis Vuitton
Armani Connected smartwatch, public excitement do much the same things. customisable watch faces
and sales will soon follow. This could be the must- That, of course, is not the including a world traveller
have gift for Christmas, and on-trend men finding point. Louis Vuitton knows time zone dial, world weather,
it under the tree will not be disappointed. how to create demand for world temperatures, city guides
The masculine smartwatch combines edgy styl- £3000 carry-on luggage that and a flight tracker.
ing with all the latest wearable functionality that
Android Wear 2.0 brings, including connectivity
to both Android-based and
GUESS CONNECT SMARTWATCH
Apple smartphones. Apps Guess was comparatively early with bold dials, bezels and straps.
include activity tracking, to market with its first connected For 2017, Guess has gone the full
music streaming, Google timepieces, a range of fashion- circular touchscreen route with its
Assistant, weather, social able men’s and ladies’ hybrid Connect smartwatches.
media and other com- models released last year The Android Wear 2.0 de-
munications alerts. The at prices starting at £150. vices are still stylish, with
waterproof 46mm Functionally, they were on-trend rose gold coloured
black PVD coated analogue timepieces with a cases and a range of PVD
steel watch comes small screen showing alerts colours used on steel
with the option of leath- when messages reached bracelets.
er, silicone or steel straps a tethered smartphone. The 41mm Ladies models come
and bracelets. It is for sale advantage of this approach is with crystal-studded bezels while
for £311. long battery life and plenty of op- the 44mm men’s have options like
portunities to make a statement diver-style bezels.

30 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


EASY WEARING MEN’S / WATCHES OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

EASY WEARING MEN’S


WATCH OF THE YEAR
THESE 10 PIECES COMBINE ON-TREND STYLING WITH AFFORDABLE PRICE POINTS TO MAKE THEM
THE SORT OF WATCHES MEN WOULD BUY FOR THEMSELVES OR PUT ON THEIR CHRISTMAS LIST.

EASY WEARING
WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
WINNER: SEIKO PRESAGE
AUTOMATIC SPB045J1

S
eiko is justifiably proud it is of its Japanese
heritage, specifically how it adheres to a
high standard of Japanese craftsmanship
and artisanship.
Traditionally, products from Japan
are made to last, and it is through this emphasis
on combining beauty with quality that Seiko has
forged such a strong reputation over a relatively
short period of time.
The Presage Automatic SPB045J1 comes with
a hand-crafted enamel dial, an in-house 6R27
automatic movement, premium dual-curved sap-
phire crystal glass and a case made of high grade
stainless steel. The design is classic and timeless,
with blue hands standing out against a crisp white
dial. The genuine black leather strap completes
the look that should tick the boxes of all classy
gentlemen.
The watch sold out almost immediately in the
UK, but if you do track one down, it is likely to cost
around £1000.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 31


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR MEN’S WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BERING 14539-307 INGERSOLL THE HAWLEY


Pre-eminent Scandinavian brand Bering’s cur- 2016 was such a storming success date and power reserve sub-dials
rency is stylish simplicity, and never has this been for the rel-aunched American brand catching our eye in particular. This is
more apparent than with its 14539-307. This £189 Ingersoll that the challenge for the a gem of an automatic watch with an
Milanese blue watch has Bering’s DNA all over Zeon-owned company in 2017 was extraordinary price tag of just £400.
it and features a quartz living up to last year’s popularity and
movement and sapphire fanfare.
crystal glass. Stripping Luckily it has built the Ingersoll
the watch back to its bare house on rock, not sand. The move-
bones, the deep blue dial ments inside were upgraded last year
has no hour markers, almost unrecognisably from what
with the plain white they were previously, and such was
rectangular hour the confidence that the brand had
and minute hands in these new movements that they
standing out offered lifetime guarantees for its
beautifully. For a customers.
EASY WEARING

brand that rose to The 44mm Hawley I04604 is our


prominence just as pick from Ingersoll’s 2017 offering,
Scandinavian design with the unusual presentation of the
was taking off, Bering
has so far impressively
survived the test of time
with its ongoing focus on
SEVENFRIDAY ROCKETBYZ
striking merchandising and
simple, elegant timepieces. There’s no other brand quite like Sevenfriday, which has
been deliberately ignoring the rulebook since it arrived
on the scene back in 2012. This year the bombastic

MONDAINE ESSENCE lifestyle brand collaborated with both Instagram


phenomenon Watch Anish and artist Tomyboy
from Rocketbyz to produce 50 watches. Each one
Being eco-friendly has never been more en vogue is hand sprayed by the artist, meaning that all
so it makes sense for a watch brand like Mondaine to 50 are unique, while the parts were assembled
produce a timepiece made with sustainable materials. in Zurich, with an automatic Miyota movement
Enter stage left: the ‘essence’ watch. The aesthetic is un- powering the timepiece.
mistakably Mondaine and not a huge departure from its The success of the collaboration can be
popular core collection, but where the parts of the watch gauged by the fact that all 50 sold out through
have been sourced is all new. The watch case contains Watch Anish’s website in just eight hours, with some
a castor oil called Rizinus, which is cultivated from the since being resold for values up to £5,500. Expect this
seeds of the tropical ‘wonder tree.’ Meanwhile the strap collaboration to return in 2018.
is based on natural rubber and the packaging itself is a
multi-purpose pouch made from recycled bottles. Envi-
ronmentally friendly, comfortable to wear and lovely to
look at — the £149 Mondaine essence will have its com-
BRAUN CLASSIC SLIM
petitors green with envy. When you think of any Braun product, the word ‘de-
sign’ invariably ends up ringing in your ears. Ever since the
1950s and the days when the legendary Dieter Rams was
overseeing the brand’s design department, Braun has
prided itself on having a unique aesthetic that other
companies draw inspiration from.
Its Classic Slim collection is no different, winning a
Red Dot award for design this year. It features Braun’s
slimmest ever case and sits incredibly comfortably
on the wrist. In an ever-changing watch universe, where
often functionality is deemed the Holy Grail above and
beyond all else, it’s sometimes worthwhile appreciating
beautifully clean design that simply tells the time.

32 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR MEN’S WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WENGER MEN’S URBAN


CLASSIC CHRONO 011743105
What Swiss brand Wenger
does very well is make products
that appeal to those people
who have a taste for the great
outdoors and like to have the
best gear to aid and assist
POLICE JUSTICE them. Its watches have

LEAGUE LIMITED EDITION always been priced


competitively and are
reliable and practical
Following its successful collaboration with Hollywood but, in the case of the
blockbuster Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice, Police this £190 Urban Classic

EASY WEARING
year unveiled the details of its latest film sponsorship. It has Chrono, they’ve
designed a limited edition watch to celebrate the 2017 release made one that looks
of Warnes Bros.’s Justice League, restricting production to just darn good too. It has a
8,888 pieces worldwide. stainless steel case and
With such commercial clout behind it, combined with is powered by an analogue
licence-holder Inter City Watches’ expertise in marketing and chronograph quartz
merchandising, this watch was and is destined for success. movement, which gives it its
It features unique antique stainless steel casing and smoke date function. Fitted with a
grey mineral glass cover, with a black dial featuring the ‘Jus- silver metal bracelet, the watch
tice League’ inscription. It’s practical too, with dual time zone sports a majestic blue dial, which
tracker, and is fastened on a silicon strap with stainless steel in- is impossible not to love.
serts. The watch costs £245, but true comic book obsessives
may want to pay £1295 for an exclusive box set containing six
watches.
HAMILTON X-WIND DAY DATE
EMPORIO ARMANI AR11081 Hot on the heels of the classic aviator styling and
functionality of its older sibling, Hamilton has extended
MEN’S CHRONOGRAPH the Khaki X-Wind line to include a
modern automatic Day Date version.
With Fossil Group devoting a huge The X-Wind has been a winning model
amount of time, energy and money for Hamilton, and this latest edition
into connected and smartwatches should appeal to its flying fans.
over the last couple of years, it Building on characteristic Khaki
shouldn’t be forgotten that they Aviation instrument DNA, and
are still masters of creating profiting from the resounding
elegant timepieces that sell in success of the X-Wind Auto
huge quantities. Chrono, the Khaki X-Wind
Of all the group’s Day Date boasts strong
brands, Emporio Armani is design in three steel or
perhaps the most timeless, black PVD-coated options
insomuch as there never and a choice of leather straps
seems to be a time when or steel bracelet. All feature an
its stylish aesthetic isn’t in orange 24-hour scale and the Khaki
fashion. The £319 R11081 Men’s X-Wind’s characteristic crowns. The
Chronograph features a silver- £1075 watch houses Hamilton’s H-30
tone logo dial on a stainless steel automatic movement with 80 hours of
case, while a matching bracelet power.
completes the look perfectly in our
view.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 33


WATCH OF THE YEAR / MECHANICAL
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MECHANICAL WATCHES
WATCH OF THE YEAR
FROM CLEAN CLASSIC STYLES TO COMPLICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS, THESE WATCHES ALL HAVE
BOUNDLESS LUXURY APPEAL IN COMMON.
MECHANICAL

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER

WINNER: ROLEX OYSTER


PERPETUAL SKY-DWELLER

W
atchPro spoke to some of the UK’s biggest retail-
ers straight after Baselworld to ask them which
watches impressed them most. Almost unani-
mously, they enthused about the Rolex Oyster
Perpetual Sky-Dweller in white or yellow Rolesor, a
patented alloy of steel and 18ct white or yellow gold.
The yellow gold version looks best suited to a Middle or
Far Eastern customer, but the white Rolesor edition, with its
sunburst blue dial, is a British classic in the making. There are
tweaks to previous precious metal Sky-Dwellers, including
rectangular index hour markers and slightly longer hands, that
will appeal to hardcore collectors. For Rolex retailers, it was the
£10,600 price tag that caught the eye — around three times
cheaper than the usual circa £30,000 cost.
Rolex doesn’t do dramatic change, so customers will be
reassured by the familiar world traveller dual time zone dial
that presents a second time on a rotating disc that sits below
centre to give room to the red hour marker and Rolex logo at
12 o’clock.
The watch houses the calibre 9001 automatic movement,
which Rolex describes as one of the most complex they have
ever developed.

34 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


2017 HIGHLY COMMENDED MECHANICAL WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

BREITLING SUPEROCEAN HÉRITAGE II


Breitling first launched the Superocean professional diver’s watch in 1957,
and used the 60th anniversary this year to bring a modern interpretation
to the old classic. The days of divers relying on the ingenuity and precision
engineering of Swiss mechanical watchmakers to keep them alive in the
deep may be over, but the expertise has never been more in demand in a
world dominated by digital precision.
Side-by-side the 1957 and 2017 are remarkably similar, but on closer
inspection you see how the combination of a new steel and ceramic bezel,
offered in black, blue or bronze, work a little more seamlessly with the
identically coloured watch faces. The dial has more
NOMOS GLASHÜTTE
detail with seconds shown at the quarter hours, and
there is also an additional date aperture at 6 o’clock.
AHOI ATLANTIK DATUM
The depth to which the watch will keep working, Germany’s Nomos does not drift far from its signature
200m below sea level, is also shown on the face. minimalistic Bauhaus-inspired designs, but manages
There are three configurations of the 2017 to create collections that appeal to men, women,
Superocean Héritage II: 42mm, 46mm business executives, surfers and pretty much everybody
and 46 mm chronograph. The movement inbetween who loves simplicity coupled with precise
is a modified Tudor Caliber MT5612 self- engineering.
winding unit — given to Breitling as part of a The Ahoi Atlantik Datum is pitched at sporty people,
development partnership that sees the two adventurers, and all those who dream of living a little
watchmakers pooling expertise and production more, and its blue dial is supposed to remind people of
of certain mechanical movements. The the ocean along the wild Atlantic shoreline.

MECHANICAL
collaboration is a smart move in today’s uncertain The details are quite distinct compared to other Nomos
market, and may explain the keen price of the models. For example, the oversized date positioned
Superocean Héritage II, which is selling for between below the small seconds sub dial is eye-catching. The
£3490 and £4620 for the chronograph. golden hour and minute hands filled with pale blue
superluminova contrast with the darker dial colour with
slim golden numbers marking the hours. The watch
is also waterproof thanks to the screw in crown, which
protects the reliable DUW 5101 automatic movement
PARMIGIANI TORICN within.
CHRONOMÈTRE 18CT WHITE GOLD PIAGET ANTIPLANO 60TH
Traditionally, the Toric family of timepieces has included
ANNIVERSARY
the most grand complications of all the Parmigiani Fleurier
collections, but 2017 sees the brand return to its roots with
the stripped back Toric Chronomètre, a Valentin Piaget made a significant leap forward in
contemporary interpretation of the first 1957 when he unveiled the ultra-thin 9P manual-
watch designed by Michel Parmigiani. winding movement at the Basel watch fair of that
Simplicity is the watch’s hallmark, with year. At 2 mm thick, the 9P enabled a broader
complication making way for details like 20.5mm dial opening that the first Altiplanos
the bezel’s alternating gadroons and were designed around. 60 years later, Piaget
knurling, which Mr Parmigiani bor- put the 2017 Antiplanos at the heart of its
rows from designs seen in ancient presentation at SIHH, revealing a slew
Greek architecture. The 40mm of models including two limited edition
case, available in white or red recreations— one hand-winding and the
gold, encloses the COSC-certified other self-winding — inspired by the designs
PF331 proprietary calibre, whose of the first ultra-thin watches.
components have all been pains- The watches use the historic logo, the applied
takingly decorated. gold hour-markers and the signature cross as
The dials are available in black opa- a nod to the line’s origins. The new models:
line or in a white grained version. The Piaget Altiplano Self-Winding 43mm (G0A42105
time is shown with two slender Javelin — £22,300) and Piaget Altiplano Manual-Winding
hands along with an elongated date aper- 38mm (G0A42107 — £16,700) have a sunburst dial
ture at 6 o’clock. This special timepiece’s in Piaget deep blue with white gold hour markers
retail price is £14,800. and the slim baton hands typical of the line.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 35


HIGHLY COMMENDED MECHANICAL WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

URBAN JURGENSEN ALFRED 42MM OMEGA AQUA TERRA 150M


OMEGA CO-AXIAL MASTER
Few watchmakers sweat over
the tiniest details like Urban
piece of silver before being polished
smooth using powers, salts and CHRONOMETER
Jürgensen. It speaks with rever- oils. The Alfred’s distinctive hands The Aqua Terra 150m Master Chronometer is the
ence about the teardrop shape are also handcrafted, with a single key promotional piece for Omega this year, worn by
lugs on the 42mm stainless set needing some 50 manufac- Oscar-winner Eddie Redmayne in a massive advertis-
case of its brand new Al- turing steps and over a day of ing campaign running since the summer. The £3450
fred, perhaps because it work to bring them to their Seamaster is a 41mm watch that is offered in a range
is named after Jacques blued, mirrored finish. of styles including black, brown, blue,
Alfred Jürgensen,  the last Under the hood is a Jür- grey or silvery dials and a diverse
watchmaker of the Jur- gensen  Caliber  P4  that can selection of bracelets and straps,
gensen family to work in the be seen through a sapphire including steel, leather and struc-
business. glass case back. The watch re- tured rubber. The case can be
The dial also rewards the tails for €14,200 (£12,750) and can made of gold, steel or a com-
closest inspection. It is made be collected in person from Urban bination of both.
using the grenage technique Jürgensen’s new atelier in Bienne, The Aqua Terra houses
that has its lacquer numerals and Switzerland, where customers will a certified Omega 8900
other inscriptions recessed into a single also be taken on a tour of the atelier. chronometer movement that
drives hours, minutes, seconds
and a date at 6.o’clock on a dial

HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG with a horizontal slatted pattern


designed to look like the wooden
AUTOMATIC CERAMIC
MECHANICAL

decks of luxury sailboats.

Hublot calls its 42mm Spirit of Big Bang


Automatic Ceramic a unisex watch; a sign of our
gender-fluid times. The £20,800 timepiece is GIRARD PERREGAUX
housed in a light-weight and super-tough ceramic
case and is smaller than the typical 45mm pieces. LAUREATO SKELETON
Even so, it screams masculinity to me, even in the
version with pave black diamonds around its bezel The Laureato was placed front and centre of a
and lugs. drive to broaden the brand’s customer base this
The watch houses a HUB4700 self-winding year, with a slew of commercially enticing models
skeletonised chronograph movement with 50 hour introduced at SIHH in January. These were followed
power reserve and comes with a rubber strap. up with fantastic pieces designed to catch the eye of
collectors such as this black £27,500 ceramic ver-
sion of its Laureato Skeleton.

GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER The all-black watch uses different finishes and tex-
tures to bring additional interest to its skeletonised
VINTAGE NOSE ART dial, movement, ceramic case, bezel and bracelet.
It is not uniformly dark and plays
The term nose art comes from the American penchant for decorating the with light thanks to its surface
pointy end of fighter aircraft by the military in the 1940s. Graham has adopted effects, including that of its Clou
several characters who became pinups in their own right from de Paris hobnail-patterned
the era and placed them on a range of Chronofighter timepiec- dial. This mastery of textures
es this year. Sally, Anna, Lilly and Nina are mascots of preci- and lighting is also ap-
sion timekeeping on each of four limited edition chrono- plied to the visible parts of
graphs produced in runs of just 100 pieces each. the movement including
The glamorous illustrations have become integral to the rotor, which is carved
Graham’s point of sale branding and innovative digital from a block of 18ct pink
advertising as well, giving a message of hope and free- gold. It has been meticulously
dom to its customers. open-worked like the rest of the
The art adorns Graham’s classic Chronofighter watch with its movement so that you can see
oversized chronograph trigger and reset pusher on the side of a all the way through the watch
44mm steel case containing the G1747 automatic movement. The and allows light to pour through
watches sell in the UK for £3840. like a stained glass window.

36 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


AN ITP PROMEDIA PUBLICATION NEWS AND INTELLIGENCE FOR CARE HOME OWNERS AND OPERATIONS DIRECTORS

NOVEMBER
NOVEMBER 2015 (ISSUE
2015 47)47)
(ISSUE
www.cateringinsight.com
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www.cateringinsight.com
www.cateringinsight.com

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WATCH OF THE YEAR / QUARTZ
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

QUARTZ
WATCH OF THE YEAR
FROM CLEAN CLASSIC STYLES TO COMPLICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS, THESE WATCHES ALL HAVE
BOUNDLESS LUXURY APPEAL IN COMMON.

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
WINNER: SEKONDA MEN’S
QUARTZ

STAINLESS STEEL REF.1490


ON MESH

N
o watchmaker shifts more units in the UK than
Sekonda. It is also a great British story because the
once-Russian business is owned by Time Products,
which designs all the watches at its Leicestershire
headquarters.
Other glossy watch magazines might look down their
noses at sub-£100 watches flying off the shelves of H.Samuel,
Watch Shop, Amazon, Argos and hundreds of other retailers,
but WatchPro is wowed by the attention to detail that ensures
fashionable yet timeless design, reliable build quality and slick
logistics that ensure the watches are always as fresh as daily
bread when they reach retailers and their customers. The fact
that this can be done for watches often costing less than £50 is
all the more remarkable and noteworthy.
In some ways it is the Time Products and Sekonda business
that we admire as much as any individual timepiece, but this
is Watches of the Year, so we have picked out this Men’s Steel
piece, which at £99.99 epitomises the value for money you get
with this brand. It is bristling with functions and has a high end
finish that makes it feel like a piece costing four times as much.

38 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017 HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CITIZEN PROMASTER DIVER


From the brand that introduced the world’s
first analogue quartz watch in
1976 comes the latest Eco-Drive
ISO-compliant dive watch, the
Promaster Diver.
The £299 watch in a stainless
steel case and an attractive
blue dial is both good looking
and practical. It is powered
DANIEL WELLINGTON by light, so never needs a

PETITE STERLING battery, and is protected


by a screw-back case
and screw-down
Daniel Wellington remains one of the best-selling quartz crown, making it
watchmakers in the UK, and earns its place in our Watches water resistant to
of the Year by virtue of its continuing commercial success 200 metres. The dial,
and trend-defining style. It remains the Scandi-design watch with its uni-directional
to beat, and even opened its own retail outlet this year in the elapsed time bezel,
main plaza of London’s Covent Garden. is housed behind anti-
Picking a favourite is not easy, so we decided brand ambas- reflective crystal.
sador Kendall Jenner could give us a steer. We noticed she Citizen has made the
has been wearing the Petite Sterling with a silver-coloured Promaster Diver one of its
steel case and mesh bracelet in her early publicity shots that key promotional pieces this
generated around a squillion likes on Instagram, so that is the year, featuring the watch on
model we feature here. in-store POS merchandising, print
The £109 slim 28mm watch is available in several colour and digital advertising and even
combinations including white on silver and black on rose. Jen- television commercials ahead of
ner went for black on silver, which is good enough for us. Christmas.

QUARTZ
ELLIOT BROWN KIMMERIDGE
JUNKERS 6070-5 British watchmaker Elliot Brown introduced its first women’s line
5 BAUHAUS this summer. The new Kimmeridge collection, named after a surf
spot close to where Elliot Brown is based in Dorset, is made up of
Junkers and Zeppelin, both owned by Pointtec in nine styles incorporating leather, solid link and Milanese straps,
Germany, have been growing their retail network and designed to be easily interchangeable.
customer base in the UK since 2014. The dials echo the design of the men’s Canford collection,
Hans Brandt, sales director for UK and redesigned with feminine touches. Some of the colours are
Ireland says that turnover is doubling decidedly female-friendly as well, especially the powder blue model
year on year, and the two brands in a gold-coloured case.
now have 60 active accounts, But the £350 Kimmeridge is not a girly watch, it is made for
mainly independent jewellers. exactly the same sort of adventurer as all Elliot Brown men’s pieces.
The Junkers Bauhaus is a The watch’s first ambassadors are Lizzie Carr, who completed a
perfect example from the 400 mile solo paddle boarding expedition along the length of
business, with its classically England’s waterways, as wells as Sarah Outen MBE, the first woman
clean German styling coupled and the youngest person to row solo across the Indian Ocean.
with precision manufacturing
and a touch of Swiss precision
in the form of its Ronda quartz
movement. At £179 at most UK
retailers, it is fantastic value for
money for a watch with a great story
thanks to Junkers’ link to historic
German aviation.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 39


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR QUARTZ WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

JEAN PAUL THOMAS SABO REBEL SPIRIT


GAULTIER NAVY CHRONOGRAPH
Exciting news broke earlier this year that Ken- Thomas Sabo lit a fire under its watch
neth Green Associates, the UK’s largest distributor business in the UK this year by press-
of fine fragrances, was entering the watch busi- ing its authorised retail partners to treat
ness. With contacts at the major European fashion timepieces with just as much enthusi-
houses and with Britain’s biggest department asm as they give to jewellery collections.
stores, it looks like a great op- The jewellery and watch business was
portunity for a distributor with prepared to tell its partners that they
decades of pedigree in devel- should push timepieces harder or risk
oping brands in the UK. losing them.
First to market were Thomas Sabo brought prices down
fashionable watch col- for its 2017 collection, with watches like
lections from Roberto the Rebel Spirit retailing for £180. The
Cavalli and Just Cav- 42mm stainless steel watch on a Mil-
alli. Then Jean Paul anese mesh bracelet houses a Miyota
Gaultier watches quartz movement. The chronograph
were added in Sep- version retails for £270.
tember. The signature
style of Jean Paul
Gaultier is immediately
seen on the dial of this
£149 piece in navy blue with
CALVIN KLEIN STEADFAST
the fashion designer’s iconic Calvin Klein’s sleek and urban Steadfast
sailor’s stripe. family has a fresh New York feel to it. The
fashion watch has the serious watchmaking
pedigree of Swatch Group behind it, and

OBAKU V207 contains an ETA quartz movement in a


timepiece that calls to mind the directional
QUARTZ

lines of the Brooklyn Bridge.


WatchPro loves a fashion watch brand with The collection comprises two versions:
versatility and the ability to quickly hit hot trends silver or black dial accented by a black
with new models. No sooner do we hear about a leather strap or a chronograph with silver or
new Obaku collection than it is superseded with black accented by black leather strap. The
another fresh look. Swiss made polished steel waterproof watch
We’d singled out this £149 V207 ladies piece shows hours, minutes and seconds in the
from earlier this year because we admire its details £189 regular watch, while the chronograph
such as the crystal-encrusted lugs reaching into also displays the date.
the brown mesh bracelet. The rose gold accents
on the two-tiered dial show an attention to detail
that is hard to achieve across such a broad range
of watches.
Obaku hits the mark more often than not across
DAISY DIXON JADE
both men’s and ladies’ quartz fashion watches that Jade by Daisy Dixon London has been one of the
range in price from £100 up to about £230. brand’s bestselling lines since launching in September
according to Inter City Group, who design and manufac-
ture the watches under license.
The watches take this year’s minimalist architec-
tural trend a step further with a matte dial featuring
geo chevron metallic stripes complemented by a
soft oily leather strap. The £50 Jade comes in a fam-
ily of styles including black and gold, navy and silver
and burgundy and rose gold.
It has been well received this season by press and
bloggers alike, featuring on MarieClaire.co.uk and in the
style edit of Now magazine.

40 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


WATCHMAKERS TO WATCH / SHOW STOPPER WATCH OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SHOW STOPPER
WATCH OF THE YEAR
PRICE IS NO OBJECT. IN FACT, THE WATCHES HERE ARE BARELY CONSTRAINED BY THE LAWS OF
PHYSICS. WATCHPRO REPORTS ON THE WRISTWATCHES THAT CAUSE COLLECTORS TO TRIP OVER THEIR
OWN TONGUES.

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
WINNER: BULGARI OCTO
FINISSIMO SKELETON

B
ulgari is generally considered the
outstanding jewellery maker in a
stable of watchmakers at LVMH. The
business put that reputation to bed
at this year’s Baselworld by unveiling
one of the great show stoppers of the exhibi-
tion, the Octo Finissimo Skeleton.
The watch is extremely light thanks to its
incredible slimness and its use of titanium for
the case and some of the movement. It is also
a marvel to admire, with its contemporary
SHOWSTOPPERS

architectural design that Bulgari says takes


inspiration from Italian constructions of Antiq-
uity and the Renaissance.
This year’s £18,400 skeleton is the latest in a
series of record-breaking Octo models thanks
to their shared ultra-thin base movement. The
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, made in 2014, is
the thinnest of its type. So was the 2016 Octo
Finissimo Minute Repeater, and the Octo Finis-
simo Automatic in 2017.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 41


ingersoll1892.com
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SHOW STOPPER WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ZENITH DEFY LAB


Zenith built on its Baselworld claim to be the technological
leader of the LVMH stable this week with the launch of Defy Lab
chronographs that claim to be the world’s most accurate mechanical
timepiece. The watch houses a reworked movement, the ZO 342,
including an all-in-one oscillator that replaces
around 30 mechanically linked components
in a normal regulating organ. The absence
of conventional mechanical couplings
eliminates contact, friction, wear, slack,
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
lubrication, assemblies and dispersions,
Zenith says. This makes it more accurate,
BUGATTI 390
more reliable, and it requires less Parmigiani Fleurier has been a partner with luxury car
maintenance. manufacturer Bugatti since 2004, and is paying homage
The exterior of the watch is also to its Chriron, the world’s fastest supercar, with the Type
innovative, using Aeronith, a material 390 timepiece.
developed by LVMH stablemate Hublot. The watch aims to echo some of the Bugatti Chiron’s
The aluminium-based alloy resembles an exceptional design and engineering triumphs. The
Aero chocolate bar’s bubbly filling, and is caliber PF390, for example, is housed in a cylinder
designed to be super strong and ultra-light. boasting an 80-hour power reserve thanks to its two
The material is forged into a 44mm circular series-mounted barrels. The transmission of information
case that houses a skeletonised dial exposing from the tubular structure to the perpendicularly
some of the inner workings of the movement. positioned dial is made possible thanks to a worm screw.
Moreover, the modular construction of this movement
means that it can be removed from its housing just as an
engine would be removed from a supercar for important
RICHARD MILLE RM 50-03 modifications. The watch is crafted from rose gold or
white gold, each £225,000 watch is made in 10-piece
TOURBILLON SPLIT SECONDS limited editions.

CHRONOGRAPH ULTRALIGHT
MCLAREN F1 PORSCHE DESIGN
Richard Mille, founder of his eponymous watch brand, says MONOBLOC ACTUATOR
the company is rapidly increasing production and will make
around 4600 timepieces next year, an increase of 30% units Porsche Design’s Monobloc Actuator was WatchPro’s
in just two years. The number may seem small, but this is a favourite watch at Baselworld. Purists might scoff at the
watch business that made 70 use of the workhorse automatic Calibre ETA Valjoux
of this show stopping limited 7754 movement, but it is how Porche’s watchmaking and
edition McLaren F1 RM 50-03 motoring engineers and designers have changed the
and priced them at $1 million way that the chronograph function is operated that made
(£760m) each. They sold out us purr. Rather than the normal push buttons at 2 o’clock
before their official on sale date. and 4 o’clock that start, stop and reset the chronograph,
The RM 50-03 tourbillon the Actuator has a rocker switch built into the side of the
split seconds chronograph case that is barely visible at a glance
SHOWSTOPPERS

ultralight McLaren F1 weighs because it perfectly follows the


fewer than 40 grams – includ- line of the case as it flows
ing the new strap – which Rich- towards the lugs either side
ard Mille claims is the lightest of the crown.
mechanical chronograph ever The 45,5mm, £5080,
made. The 31mm x 32mm car- watch is lighter than
bon case is injected with gra- it looks because it is
phene, as is a transverse cage. made of titanium with
This adds strength, but not a carbide coating that
weight to this beautiful watch. will stop it getting
scratched.

44 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SHOW STOPPER WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ARNOLD & SON TOURBILLON


CHRONOMETER NO.36
Watch brand Arnold & which will mark its 240th anni-
Son has introduced a versary in 2018.
new skeletonised tour- The £36,000 techni-
billon as a modern cal masterpiece has its
tribute to a histori- wheels, barrels and tour-
cal chronometer billon mounted on their F.P. JOURNE VAGABONDAGE III
made by its found- own bridges that build
er. The Tourbillon into a three dimensional F.P. Journe has revealed the third and final timepiece in
Chronometer No. 36 movement. The tourbillon its Vagabondage Series, the Vagabondage III, at SIHH in
champions symmetry features a traditional con- January. Only 137 will be produced; 69 in platinum and 68
and skeletonisation and struction with a top bridge, in 18ct red gold.
draws inspiration from while the mirror-polished cage Customer loyalty counts to F.P. Journe, and the com-
the John Arnold pocket has the signature Arnold & Son pany has given owners of the previous iteration, Vaga-
chronometer No. 1/36, three-spoke design.. bondage II, priority when it comes to buying version III.
The third edition retains the flat Tortue case, the same size

CHOPARD L.U.C FULL STRIKE as the Vagabondage II, with a manually wound movement
with a “remontoir d’égalité” that advances the time train
each second. The inner smoked sapphire dial, framed by
The gold medal winner of this gongs. It has taken Chopard six a screwed “appliqué” outer dial, still without the F.P. Journe
year’s GPHG Awards years to create the watch’s signature, reveals the 18ct rose Gold movement.
was the Chopard calibre 08.01-L, building on the
L.U.C. Full strike, the Strike One, launched in 2006,
crowning glory of which chimed every hour.
the watchmaker’s The movement has three VACHERON CONSTANTIN
20th anniversary
collection. The
pending patents.
The £190,000 horological LES CABINOTIERS CELESTIA
watch features
Chopard’s first ever
masterpiece is not just a
museum piece, it is highly
ASTRONOMICAL GRAND
minute repeater, striking wearable and extremely COMPLICATION 3600
the hours, quarters and beautiful in its 42.5mm rose
minutes on sapphire gold case. Vacheron Constantin created one of the world’s most
complicated watches this year. The list of indications
is mind-boggling: Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar,

PATEK PHILIPPE 5168G-001 day/night indication, precision moon phase, age of the
moon, running equation of time, sunrise and sunset
time, day and night length, seasons, solstices, equinoxes
Patek Philippe marked the 20th anniversary of its Aquanaut this year and zodiacal signs, tide level indicator, Sun-Earth-Moon
with the introduction of a white gold model that Aurum Holdings head of conjunction, opposition and quadrature, transparent sky
watch buying called “a real show stopper”. Who are we to disagree? chart of the northern hemisphere with indication of
The sportiest of Patek’s current men’s line up is a little larger this year at the Milky Way, of the
42mm. Its design pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus of the same size ecliptic and celestial
that is often called the Jumbo by collectors. The £38,000 timepiece uses equator, hours
a new night blue colour that darkens to black toward the outside. Its deli- and minutes
SHOWSTOPPERS

cately embossed structure has Arabic numerals in white gold that comple- of sidereal
ment new luminous five-minute markers, also as appliques in white gold. time,

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 45


WATCH OF THE YEAR / SPORTS ACTIVITY
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
LUXURY

SPORTS ACTIVITY
FASHION

WATCH OF THE YEAR


SPORTS

FROM CLEAN CLASSIC STYLES TO COMPLICATIONS AND INNOVATIONS, THESE WATCHES ALL HAVE
BOUNDLESS LUXURY APPEAL IN COMMON.
INNOVATION
MECHANICAL

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017
WINNER
QUARTZ

WINNER: ORIS AQUIS DATE


STAINLESS STEEL BLUE DIAL
CLASSIC

O
ris has long established itself as a powerhouse
in the world of divers’ watches, but this year
what stood out during its Baselworld presenta-
tion was the Aquis Date collection, specifically
SHOWSTOPPERS SPORTS ACTIVITY

the blue dialled version with the stainless steel


bracelet, which floated our boat enormously. Oris’s de-
signers have added a touch of elegance to the tool watch
to reflect the versatility owners now expect from a divers’
watch. Oris diver’s watches are no longer just for under-
water adventures, they’re often found under a cuff.
This round blue dial, with luminous hands and indices
and a surrounding black ceramic bezel, has a simple date
window function positioned at 6 o’clock. The watch is
powered by Oris’s version of a Sellita automatic move-
ment and priced at just £1520. It is water resistant up to
300m and comes in an Oris presentation box with a two
RISING-STARS

year warranty.

46 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SPORTS WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

G-SHOCK G-STEEL GST-W120L-1AER


Casio’s G-Shock brand is one of
the blessed few that seem almost
impervious to the fluctuating and
fickle cycles of the fashion world.
It simply seems to sell well
come wind, rain or shine.
Its G-Steel model features

ETIQUS SPORT TOUR 42MM a full analogue format


with a Bluetooth link
to smartphones,
If whiling away a few hours on your golf course is your but is still as tough
idea of an idyllic Sunday then this is the watch for you. as you’d expect a
Etiqus is a new kid on the block, and the unique selling G-Shock to be, with
point of its £249 Sport Tour 42mm watch is its linksometric its carbon bezel the
bezel, which tells the wearer roughly what time he/she product of its state-
should be on the next hole by in order to complete their of-the-art materials
round in good time. There’s nothing worse than slow play, and technology.
after all. The Sport Tour looks every bit a proper sports This innovation is
watch, made with high grade stainless steel and water further seen in the
resistant to 100m. The black silicone strap option is our lightweight rigid carbon
pick, as it feels delightful on the wrist in the office or on the bezel, which gives the watch
fifth tee. outstanding shock resistance.
Highly scratch-resistant sapphire
crystal protects the face of the
£300 G-Steel, which completes the
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL SEA- ‘functional but tough as old boots’

DWELLER 50TH ANNIVERSARY package perfectly.

This year’s £8350 Sea-Dweller from Rolex, 50 years on


from its debut in 1967, is a technical divers’ watch, waterproof FESTINA TOUR OF BRITAIN 2017
to a depth of 1,220m and armed with a helium escape valve. It
features a larger 43mm case and the new calibre 3235, which
CHRONOGRAPH
is employed for the first time in Cycling has been part of Festina’s DNA over a number of years,
a Rolex Professional category and has proven to be a particularly savvy strategy here in Britain,
watch. where the sport has blossomed on the back of unprecedented
Another debut is the ad- British Olympic success from the likes of Bradley Wiggins, Mark
dition of the Cyclops lens Cavendish and Chris Hoy.

SPORTS ACTIVITY
on the crystal at 3 o’clock, Capitalising on this surge in popularity is key to Festina’s game plan,
which makes reading which is why its sponsorship of the ever-growing Tour of Britain
the date easier. It is makes so much sense. The accompanying watch that the brand
tempting with almost has produced comes in a stainless steel case and is fitted with a
any Rolex timepiece quartz chronograph
to talk until the cows movement. It comes
come home about its in a range of colour
technical proficiency, combinations,
but it’s equally important but our particular
to stress how iconic and favourite is the blue
handsome it looks. Wheth- rubber strap with
er you’re a seasoned Rolex the blue dial. At
collector or dipping your toe £169 this watch is
into the water for the first time an absolute steal for
(or your whole body for that cyclists and non-
matter, as this is a divers’ watch cyclists alike.
after all), this won’t disappoint.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 47


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR SPORTS WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TUDOR HERITAGE ULYSSE NARDIN MARINE REGATTA


BLACK BAY CHRONO Winner of the Sports Watch prize on this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie
Since the presentation in 1970 of its first chrono- de Genève list, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Regatta is visually
graph, Tudor has always produced watches that are spectacular. This is a £14,400 watch designed for sailors,
intrinsically linked to the world of motorsports. Equally, especially those who compete in formal races, and has been
since 1954 it has been steadily developing its profes- co-developed by the Swedish Artemis Racing team, Ulysse
sional divers’ watches. This year’s £3610 hybrid Herit- Nardin’s official partner for the America’s Cup.
age Black Bay Chrono aims to combine both worlds The purpose of a regatta chronograph is not only
in one watch. to track racing time but, above all, to count down the
Lovers of the classic Black Bay minutes before the racers cross the starting line. An
series will instantly feel at home arrow points at the yellow minute scale from 0 to 10
with the famous snowflake on the dial and can be set with a pusher located at the
hands and 41mm steel case, 10 o’clock position. When the countdown reaches zero,
while a fixed bezel in circular signalling the start of the race, the seconds hand begins
satin-brushed steel with timing the race, measured by an hours and minutes sub-dial
engraved tachymetric at the 6 o’clock position. There’s not enough space here to
scale completes this sporty fully do justice to the technical specification and functionality
chronograph. Waterproof of the Marine Regatta, but the image of this beautiful time-
to 200m, the Heritage Black piece says more than words ever could.
Bay Chrono scooped the ‘Petit
Aguille’ prize at the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève earlier
this year.
TISSOT T-RACE CYCLING TOUR DE
FRANCE COLLECTION
BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON It was back in January 2016 that Tissot announced a five-
year sponsorship deal with the Tour de France, the biggest
CLUB SHELBY COBRA cycling event in the world. This was a serious statement of
intent from the Swatch Group brand, which it has backed
Richemont brand Baume & Mercier is a specialist up with quality product launches that appeal to ardent
in producing beautiful timepieces for its loyal fan base, cycling fans.
and the Clifton Club Shelby Cobra, the brand’s tribute The sporty T-Race Cycling Tour de France
to the original Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe car, is Collection has, understandably, a number of nods
another triumph. A 44mm automatic chronograph and winks towards the race itself, not least the
watch for men, it comes in a limited edition of 1,964 yellow trim that adorns the dial and strap, which is
pieces. reminiscent of the race champion’s famous yellow
A sun satin-finished Daytona jersey. The black part of the strap looks like a bike’s tyre
blue dial with chronograph tread, as does the outside of the crown. A final sprinkle
counters makes for a of exclusivity on this quartz chronograph is the engraved
SPORTS ACTIVITY

splendid frontage, Tour de France logo on the case back.


while an automatic
movement featur-
ing chronograph,
OMEGA SEAMASTER
tachymeter, day
& date functions
PLANET OCEAN 600M
keeps things tick- Originally launched in 2005, Omega’s Planet Ocean line continues to flourish
ing over under the today. This £4560 model is a stylish homage to the brand’s diving heritage.
bonnet. The hours Made with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, it features a black dial with a date
and minutes hands window at 3 o’clock. The unidirectional black, blue or grey
are shaped like a steer- ceramic bezel is mounted on a 42mm stainless steel
ing wheel and adorned case, on bracelet made from the same material.
with Superluminova, while Water resistant to 600m, the Planet Ocean
the dial is finished with 600M comes with a helium escape valve. Perhaps
subtle vertical racing stripes, the icing on the cake is Omega’s Co-Axial calibre
completing the tribute to 8500 movement, which looks resplendent
the legendary car. through the transparent case back.

48 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


Catch up online

WatchPro
DECEMBER 2017 / ISSUE 84
watchpro.com

BRITAIN’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH TITLE


WATCHPRO AWARDS

WHO WALKED AWAY


RETAIL DATA
GFK RECORDS
WITH THE GONGS AT FIRST ANNUAL DIP
THE UK'S ONLY IN WATCH SALES
SINCE 2016
AWARDS FOR
OUR BELOVED
WATCH
BUSINESS

>>>NEWS
ROUNDUP
PARTY PICS Catch up on the
Relive the breaking stories
excitement emerging from
of the WatchPro the British watch
Awards industry this
month

WATCHES OF THE YEAR


WatchPro reveals the 100 timepieces that have most successfully mixed
sensational design, technical innovation and commercial appeal this year

Our magazine is also free to view on our website

Visit www.watchpro.com/emagazine to read the


latest issue on the go
WATCH OF THE YEAR / WOMEN’S
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WOMEN’S
WATCH OF THE YEAR
FROM THOSE MAKING THEIR FIRST FORAY INTO MECHANICAL WATCHES TO THOSE PUSHING THE
BOUNDARIES, THE BRANDS IN THIS LINE UP HAVE LED BY EXAMPLE IN 2014.

WATCHES OF
THE YEAR 2017 WINNER: GUCCI G-TIMELESS
WINNER

G
ucci presented the boldest collection of
women’s watches of any major brand at
Baselworld this year. The key to the ladies’
G-Timeless collection is the way new sil-
houettes, motifs, techniques and colours
are taken directly from Gucci catwalk fashion. This
is not a watered down version of the fashion house,
it is couture for the wrist. Walking down London’s
WOMENS

Oxford Street, the range stops you in your stride as


you see it in the window of a jewellery and watch
shop.
The family of watches, available in case sizes
29mm and 36mm, features mother of pearl dials
adorned with Gucci’s new signature indexes featur-
ing delicate bee, star and heart motifs. The cases
are crafted in stainless steel or, in one instance, light
yellow gold PVD. Straps are available in simple steel
mesh or colourful lizard skin. Prices range from
around £700-1100.
G-Timeless Slim has also been worked in auto-
matic variants, with dials featuring the signature
indexes enhanced by a refined guillauché rosette
for a softer, more delicate feel. The transparent back
of the 40mm case reveals the movement and an
engraving of Gucci’s signature honeybee on the
oscillating weight. Each model is finished with a
mesh bracelet or calf leather strap in a choice of
different hues.

50 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WOMEN’S WATCH OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

VICTORINOX I.N.O.X. V AUDEMARS PIGUET


2017 was declared the year for ladies watches by
Victorinox, as the Swiss Pocket Knife
ROYAL OAK QUARTZ
maker launched a range of I.N.O.X. The accuracy and reliability of quartz is an
watches for sporty and adventurous undervalued commodity in Swiss watchmaking. It is
women. Like the men’s collection, the refreshing to see Audemars Piguet embrace it again in its
watches are virtually indestructible 33mm ladies Royal Oak Quartz,
while at the same time being a jewelled watch that directs its
comfortable to wear and energy into exquisite styling
stylish too. The £399 watch is using diamonds across
offered with a white rubber the watch face, case and
strap, paracord band or steel bracelet of this 18ct pink
bracelet. gold or 18ct white gold
Nothing has been timekeeper.
compromised in the creation of At first seemingly
the I.N.O.X. V range for ladies, and random, the wave-like
no female fripperies like crystals pattern of gems is
or diamonds have been added. precisely considered
“We call it the V collection, which and set within the
could mean vivacious, victorious, Royal Oak’s distinct
versatile, visionary. It is not a normal design in the same way
ladies watch with a mother of pearl that an abstract painter
dial and diamonds, it is a more bold might approach a canvas.
interpretation of what a modern lady The arrangement aims to
wants,”  Alexander Bennouna, CEO of highlight the horological
the company’s watchmaking business, craft of the watch as much
said. as the jeweller’s steady hand,
particularly the way they create
continuity across the entire
piece.

LIU JO LUXURY DANCING


The fashionable £199 Liu Jo Luxury
ANNE KLEIN SIGNATURE
Dancing is the perfect Christmas

WOMENS
party piece. The family of watches The Signature Watch is aptly
has a colourway to match any named because it epitomises the
outfit including rose gold or silver qualities of fast fashion, affordability
steel case and bracelet or white and attention to detail for which
leather strap with a mother Anne Klein is known across apparel,
of pearl watch face. There is accessories and timekeepers.
even a bi-colour rose gold The crystal studded dial with
and silver-colour combina- rose gold-coloured Roman
tion. numeral markers is classical
More eye-catching is the but fun, whle the taupe calf
moat surrounding the skin leather strap adds a touch
dial that is almost filled of luxury. A range of colour
with crystals that dance combinations are available,
around as you move. Even typically with matching dial and
the crystals come in different straps.
colours, with the pure white A Japanese quartz movement
version giving a crisper look than hums within the waterproof 34mm
the multi-coloured option. The round case finished in the same
slim 37mm models look great on a rose gold colour as the markers. The
slender wrist with the swirl of gems fashion fix is yours for £85.
grabbing attention.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 51


HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WOMEN’S WATCH OF THE YEAR
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

OLIVIA BURTON MARBLE & FLORAL


What a year it has been (OB16CS12) that sells for just
for Olivia Burton. Founders £82. The design and price
Lesa Bennett and Jemma combination is classic Olivia
Fennings announced in Burton, delivering seasonal
the summer that their style at a cost that allows
company had been its young female fans IWC DA VINCI AUTOMATIC
sold to America’s gi-
ant Movado Group
to bag a new time-
piece as thoughts MOON PHASE
for £60 million. Seem- switch from summer
ingly undistracted, barbecues to Christ- Da Vinci was the big launch for IWC at January’s
the team followed up mas parties. The nude SIHH exhibition, with the entire exhibition stand seem-
the news with one of its peach colour strap is a ingly devoted to Renaissance themes to complement
most stylish collections to great transition colour that the collection of ladies’ timepieces.
date, including this marble keeps the watch feeling fresh The star piece in a three model family was the dia-
and floral-patterned piece for months. mond studded Automatic Moon Phase, a stunner in
its 36mm steel case at £11,950. However, we prefered

JAEGER-LECOULTRE RENDEZ- the pictured rose gold edition without diamonds at


£14,250; a watch that would be easier to wear all day
VOUS AUTOMATIC and night.
The Da Vinci is an example of exquisite beauty cou-
pled with serious mechanical watchmaking. It is ele-
There was a minor turf war using diamonds and gantly proportioned for a ladies’ wrist, but makes none
between Jaeger-LeCoultre and sapphires to mark of the compromises too often expected of women
Richemont stablemate IWC time. The Night & Day who love Swiss watches.
when they both unveiled Large model comes
feminine, elegant, in a bigger than usual
mechanically interesting 38.2mm case while the
and highly commercial Rendez-Vous Moon is BULOVA LADIES RUBAIYAT
moonphase watches at a more petite 36mm.
January’s SIHH. There The family has an option Rubaiyat was the name of Bulova’s first ever ladies
is no clear winner, with for every taste and watch, launched back in 1917, so it was inevitably going
both IWC’s Da Vinci and budget including cases to be revived in this centenary year. The 2017 Rubaiyat
JLC’s Rendez-Vous causing in precious metals or collection consists of 12 models, each adorned with
WOMENS

WatchPro to purr. steel; several colours and individually hand-set diamonds and a blue gemstone
At the heart of every textures of leather straps crown at 12 o’clock. The range comes in a choice of
Rendez-Vous timepiece is an or steel bracelets; and a stainless, gold-tone and rose gold-tone cases and
automatic movement beating choice of bezels with or bracelets as well as elegant leather straps lined with
behind the watch’s beautiful dial without diamonds. sophisticated colour accents.
Deluxe limited-edition styles have an extra halo of

CHANEL PREMIÈRE CAMÉLIA SKELETON more than a carat of dazzling diamonds and coloured
sapphires in rose, blue or blush tones, and straps
This year, to mark the 2, for the timepiece. made of exotic skins, which take prices up to around
30th anniversary of the The hand wound £2850.
Première watch, Chanel movement, designed
created an exclusive fine in the geometric patern
bejewelled limited edition of a Camélia flower, is
named the Première fully on show in the
Camélia Skeleton. The CHF see-through watch.
122,222 (£93,000) watch It is surrounded by a
was selected as the winner diamond-studded case
in the lady’s category of in the classic Chanel
this year’s GPHG Awards. No.5 bottle stopper
Chanel developed only shape and also has
the second movement it diamond-encrusted
has ever made, the Caliber hands.

52 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


2017 WATCHMAKERS TO WATCH / WATCH OF THE YEAR
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WATCHMAKERS TO WATCH
WATCH OF THE YEAR
WATCHPRO PRESENTS 10 WATCHMAKERS THAT HAVE MADE EXCEPTIONAL STRIDES IN THE IN 2017.
MANY ARE ESTABLISHED BRANDS, BUT FEEL POISED TO REACH NEW LEVELS IN THE COMING YEARS.

WINNER: GAGÀ MILANO WATCHES OF


THE YEAR 2017
WINNER

G
aGà Milano was introduced to the
UK earlier this year by distributor
Argento Fine Products. The Italian
watchmaker specialises in oversized
and over-the-top timepieces priced
upwards of £1000. Argento has a track record
of picking winners, having successfully intro-
duced Frederique Constant and Alpina to the
UK before they were both taken in house by
new owner Citizen.
GaGà Milano has secured placement
with two award-winning luxury jewellers:
Harrington & Hallworth in Manchester and
Lumbers Jewellers in Leicester, which will give
other independents and multiples confidence
to invest in the emerging brand.
In an era when we are bombarded with
bold and brash marketing throughout our
daily lives, GaGà Milano has the potential to
cut through thanks to its uniquely ballsy time-
pieces. Speaking of ballsy, Brazilian superstar
footballer Neymar is one of GaGà’s biggest
fans, and happily shares images of his latest
RISING-STARS

watches across his social media feeds.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 53


ingersoll1892.com
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WATCH OF THE YEAR 2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WEIRD APE FAVRE-LEUBA


WatchPro first met Weird Ape co-founder Callum McVickers in British distributor Veritime launched Favre-Leuba this
March this year. The fledgling brand was in its second year, and year with an offer of £10,000 towards advertising for the
had just launched a range of £160 skeletonised men’s mechanical first retailers that take on the Swiss watch brand that the
watches as an experimental addition to its more mainstream sub- company is introducing to the UK.
£100 minimalist pieces. Favre-Leuba claims to be Switzerland’s second
The world does not need another mass market Scani-design oldest watch brand and can trace its history back to
watchmaker, but our interest 1737, when it was founded in Le
was piqued by the skeletonised Locle. It now makes high end
Kolt collection because of their rugged mechanical watches
memorable designs and like the Bivuac 9000, which
astonishingly low price. We were is designed to withstand
also impressed by the energy altitudes of up to 9000
and entrepreneurial spirit of metres and has an
Mr McVickers. altimeter built in. It
Our interest was not also has ladies ranges
misplaced. The watch including the Sea Bird
brand has ignited this (pictured), which is also
year, with a growing designed to survive
network of retailers brutal environments
shifting dozens of Weird like the open sea.
Ape watches every week Veritime’s managing
— an almost unheard director Neil Duckworth
success at the value end told WatchPro that Favre-
of the market. Most recently Leuba arrives in the UK with a
they have built on this success look, with a history, and with a
with first class social media big idea to encourage retailers
and publicity stunts including to stock the collections.
delivering watches to customers
using drones.

NITE WATCHES
LE RHÖNE Nite Watches may need to break away from its current
direct to consumer sales approach if it is to fulfil its
Luxury watch brand Le Rhöne’s managing director Loïc potential. The Dorset-based business has been making
Florentin used Baselworld this year to pitch watches since 2004 and its current collections deserve
his watches to European buyers, particu- to be seen as widely as possible, although prices for
larly those in the UK. The company beautifully-designed and engineered pieces like the Nite
even secured a front cover position Alpha (pictured) would inevitably rise from the current
on WatchPro in February to make £480 if retailer margins were added.
a bold statement of intent in this The Nite Alpha dive watch is a nod to the company’s
country. south coast location and the nautical background of its
Le Rhöne hopes to capitalise founder Roger Green. The ice white waved pattern dial
on the personalisation craze that combined with the ocean blue accents and silicon crown
is beginning to take hold at the top grip pays homage to the classic sports watch and is
end of the watch market. For exam- already a firm favourite among the company’s customers.
ple, its novelty at Baselworld, a double
tourbillon Home-Time, can be person-
alised and shipped to the final customer
in approximately six to eight weeks. The
RISING-STARS

company works with top end artisans and


ateliers in Switzerland on all its watches and
told WatchPro at Baselworld that it is working
on the development of a brand new move-
ment.

56 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


LUXURY
2017
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
HIGHLY COMMENDED FOR WATCH OF THE YEAR

VERSUS RESERVOIR
Versus updated its men’s logo is attached to inexpensive
and ladies’ collections this year watches; around £190 for the UK distributor Veritime introduced Reservoir to the
with gents given a range of men’s Aberdeen collection and UK this year. The French watch brand, created by a
sporty fashion pieces in the £160 for the women’s logo former investment banker, launched its first collection
Aberdeen range. Women pieces. at Baselworld this year with watches that demonstrate
needing a fashion fix could The watches are de- the founder’s passion for motoring and addiction for
turn to the updated Logo signed and distributed by vintage watches.
collection. Timex, so they come with all The first four watches from
Versus is the name of the dif- the logistical support and mar- Reservoir are designed to
fusion line of Versace, so fast keting expertise that should see look like the rev counter
fashion is in the brand’s DNA. Its Versus thrive in the UK. on a car’s dashboard,
although one model also
resembles a pressure
gauge on a subma-
LOOMES & CO C rine, another takes
inspiration from a
Loomes & Co can hardly be Owner Robert Loomes is at heart plane’s cockpit dials.
described as a breakthrough brand. a horologist and traditionalist, but They use Swiss-made
The British watchmaker has been the business has been modernising automatic movements
making its own watches in and taking on a more commercial to power a retrograde sec-
its Stamford workshop posture recently that is well onds hand and a jumping
for over a decade (it worth keeping an eye on. hour in four styles of watch
was a retailer and The company is not likely to priced at £3500.
repair shop for move into the high volume
generations), market, but that doesn’t
and took the mean it can’t make a greater
craft to a new impact with watches like this CVSTOS
level after Stamford Original limited
discovering a edition, made just 12 times Cvstos, currently stocked only at Frost of London in
cache of Smith in a yellow gold case and the UK, makes high end pieces from its Geneva head-
movements in 12 times in white gold selling quarters. Its watches are mainly housed in rounded
2011 that it has for around £48,500. Every rectangular cases similar to a Richard Mille, and use
been modifying component of the Stamford’s rarely used arts and craftsmanship to make low vol-
and mounting into movement was designed ume, highly desirable pieces for men and women.
classic timepieces ever and made in Britain, including The Lady Re-Belle Sakura
since. hairsprings and jewels. full Diamond pictured
here shows the preci-
sion and beauty that
Cvstos aims to de-
SLAPPIE liver. The Red gold
case is studded
WatchPro has kept an eye to grow, particularly in channels like with diamonds,
on Slappie since it was given an airlines, online and in department as is the dial
investment of £50,000 by Moonpig. stores. with its hand-
com founder Nick Jenkins, who The £25-30 silicon watches sold painted flowers.
was one of the Dragons as many units in three weeks on At £30,000, the
on BBC’s Dragon’s Den Virgin Atlantic flights this year watch is a unique
in 2016. Mr Jenkins than it shifted in several work of art.
presumably got his months directly The company
money back this year from the Slappie is already 12 years
when the company website thanks to old, and aims to keep
RISING-STARS

was sold this year their combination shocking and delight-


to Guernsey-based of rubbery fashion ing watch lovers with an
entrepreneur Scott and bold colours that endless stream of creativ-
Carre for an undisclosed appeal to children and ity from its Ferney-Voltaire
sum, and has continued adults. manufacture.

watchpro.com / DECEMBER 2017 / WATCHPRO 57


EVENTS /PEOPLE WATCHING

Guest List - WATCHPRO AWARDS

The biggest star-studded party in Geneva for


SIHH was hosted by IWC as it launched its Da
Vinci watch collection. Celebrities from across
sport, music, film and fashion joined CEO George
Kern on the red carpet.

58 WATCHPRO / DECEMBER 2017 / watchpro.com


28th SALON
I N T E R N AT I O N A L
DE LA HAUTE
HORLOGERIE
OPEN TO GENEVA, FROM 15 TO 19 JANUARY 2018

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MONTBLANC | PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER | PIAGET | RICHARD MILLE
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Registration at sihh.org ROMAIN GAUTHIER | RJ-ROMAIN JEROME | SPEAKE-MARIN | URWERK
New automatic watches from Glashütte: sitting smartly under the cuff, working with high precision—for those who are passionate
about what they do. The motor within is NOMOS’ sensational neomatik caliber DUW 3001, made by hand in Germany, trimmed
for peak performance with high tech. Metro neomatik 39 silvercut and other models are now available with selected retailers.
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